IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 2.0 u u |A0 Ui& F'l!4li^ ^ 6" ► Photographic Sdenoes CarporatiQn 23 WIST MAIN STRHT WnSTIR,N.Y. 14SM (71«)t72-4S03 ft CIHM/ICMH Microfiche CIHM/ICMH Collection de t Series. microfiches. Canadian Inatituta for Hiatorical Microraproductiona / Inatitut Canadian da microraproductiona hiatoriquaa TachniccI and Bibliographic Notas/Notaa tachni«|uaa at bibliographiquaa Tha Instituta Itas attamptad to obtain tha baat originai copy availabia for filming. Faatjraa of thia copy which may ba bibliographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproduction. or which may aignificantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. D D D D D Colourad covara/ Couvartura da coulaur r~n Covara damagad/ Couvartura andommagte Covara rattorad and/or iaminatad/ Couvartura raataurta at/ou paliiculAa I I Covar titia miaaing/ La titra da -couvartura manqua n Colourad mapa/ Car las gAographiquas an coulaur □ Colourad ink (i.a. othar than blua or black)/ Encra da coulaur (i.a. autra qua blaua ou noira) Colourad platas and/or iilustrationa/ Planchaa at/ou illuatrationa an coulaur Bound with othar matarial/ Rali* avac d'autraa documanta Tight binding may causa shadows or distortion along intarior margin/ La re liura sarrAa paut cauaar da I'ombra ou da la diatortion la long da la marga intAriaura Blank laavas addad during raatoration may appaar within tha taxt. Whanavar poaaibia, thaaa hava baan omittad from filming/ II aa paut qua cartainaa pagas blanchaa ajoutiaa lora d'una rastauration apparaisaant dans la taxta, maia, lorsqua cala Mait possibia, caa pagaa n'ont pas Atd filmias. L'Institut a microfilm* la maillaur axamplairc qu'il lui a iti poaaibia da aa procurar. Las ditails da cat axamplaira qui aont paut-Atra uniquas du point da vua bibiiographiqua, qui pauvant modif iar una imaga raproduita, ou qui pauvant axigar una modification dana la mAthoda normala da filmaga aont indiquAa ci-dassous. D D D D D D D D Colourad pagar/ Pagas da coulaur Pagas damagad/ Pagas andommagAas Pages raatorad and/or laminatad/ Pagas raatsurAw at/ou pailiculAas Pagas discolourad, stainad or foxad/ Pagas dAcolorAas, tachatidss ou piquAas Pagas datachad/ Pagas ditachAas Showthrough/ Transparanca Quality of print varias/ Quality inigala da I'imprassion Includaa aupplamantary matarial/ Comprand du material supplAmantaira Only adition availabia/ Saula Mition disponibia Pagas wholly or partially obscurad by arrata slips, tissuas, ate., hava baan rafilmad to anaura tha bast poaaibia imaga/ Laa pagaa totalamant ou partiallamant obacurciaa par un fauiliat d'arrata. una palura, ate, ont AtA film^aa A nouvaau d« fa^on A obtanir la maillaura imaga poaaibia. The totl Additional commanta:/ Commantairas suppMmantairaa: Irrsgular psBinatkui: [i] - xiv, [9] - 336 p. The pos oft filn Ori bai tha slot oth fir» sioi ori The sha TIN whi Mai diff( anti bagi righ raqi mat Thia item la filmed at tha reduction ratio cheeked below/ Ce document eat f ilmA au taux da rMuctton indiquA cl-deaaoua. 10X 14X WX 22X aix aox JL 12X 1SX aox MX aix a2x Th« copy filmad hare hat b««n raproduced thanks to tha ganaroaity of: National Library of Canada L'axamplaira filmi fut raproduit grflca A la gAnArositA da: BibliothAque nationala du Canada Tha image* appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covera are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or iliuatratiHl impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the f irat page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the laat page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol ^4^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever appliaa. Las images suivantes ont 4tA reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compta tenu de la condition at de la nettetA de I'exempiaira film*, et en conformity avec las conditions du contrat de filmage. Lea exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimte sont filmte en commenpant par la premier plat at en terminant soit par la darni^re page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, salon la caa. Tous lea autres exemplaires originaux aont filmfo an commenpant par la premlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la darniire page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la darnlAre image de cheque microfiche, seion le caa: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbols ▼ signifie "FIN". IMaps. plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratioa. Those too large to be entirely Included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, aa many framea as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Lea cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmte h dee taux de reduction diff Arents. Lorsqua le document est trop grand pour §tre reproduit en un seul clichA, 11 est film* A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche it droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaira. Las diagrammea suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 AME Conflv'ei RECENTLY PUBLISHED, NO FICTION : a Narrative, founded on recent and interesting Facts. By the Rev. Andrew Reed. New and Improved Edition. 12mo. ' MARTHA : a Memorial of an only anc' >ved Sis- ter. By the Rev. Andrew Reed. 12mo. AMD lOLD NARRATIVE Of THE VISIT TO THE AMERICAN CHURCHES, BY THE DEPUTATION FROM THE ConflveflatConal {anion of Enfllanli ano muU8» BV andrewCreed, d.d. AND JAMES MATHESON, D.D. IN TWC VOLUMES. VOL. I. NEW-YORK: PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS^ NO. 82 OLirr-STRBKT, AMD lOLD BY THE PRINCIPAL B00K8BLLRRB THROPOaOUT TBI VMITBO STATES. 18 35. gX7/3>7 V E WITH Tl X ^5 TO THE CHURCHES OP ENGLAND AND AMERICA, IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, VITH THE EARNEST DESIRE THAT IT MAY PROMOTE THEIR MUTUAL AFFECTION, AND THEIR UNITED OEVOTBDNESS TO THE world's SALVATION, BY THE DEPUTATION. >msh J I It mu written < occupied tion of t judgmen the advai Notwil by travel interestin Religion Happily, since to i other; an with the spirit and must be c< if nature narrative, commendi facility an "thethini The C( 1831. It at length i the times, PREFACE. It must be admitted that enough has been recently written on America, unless it were better written, or occupied some new field of discourse. The execu- tion of the following volumes must be left with the judgment of the public ; but the Authors may claim the advantage of having occupied new ground. Notwithstanding the numerous communications made by travellers within these few years, relative to this interesting country, the ample fields of Nature and Religion remained almost unexplored and unreported. Happily, these subjects are in keeping with each other, since to illustrate one is to assist the conception of the other ; and happily, too, they were most in accordance with the taste of the writers, as well as in the very spirit and design of their Mission. Religion, indeed, must be considered as the great subject of inquiry ; and if nature- and outward circumstance, in the form of narrative, are associated with it, it is from a desire of commending to the memory and heart, with greater facility and power, the things that are *' invisible," by ** the things which do appear." The Congregational Union was formed in the year 1831. It* had been several times contemplated; and at length arose, partly from the growing exigencies of the times, and partly from the improved spirit in the 1* vl PREFACE. churches. It was fell that, in pleading with unwaver- ing resolution for the principle of Independence, under difficult circumstances, we were liable to adopt a lim- ited view of its import ; and that it was desirable, on every account, to convey the acknowledged strength and efficiency of our individual churches to those churches in an associated capacity. The attempt has been successful beyond the expectations of many ; and it is earnestly to be hoped, that, since the sign of our religion is Union, and the spirit of it Love, its success will be complete. One of the best and earliest eflfects of this union was, to express sympathy to kindred fellowships, with- out restriction from national bias or geographical boun- daries. An affectionate correspondence was soon opened between it and the Presbyterian and Congre- gational bodies of the United States, which afforded much gratification. Affection was strengthened by its exercise; and it was proposed to seek the higher profit and pleasure which might arise from personal intercourse. In this spirit, a Deputation was appointed to make a fraternal visit to the churches of that land , to assure them of our Christian esteem and affection ; and to bear home again the responses of kindness and confidence. The churches of America have shown their eagerness to participate in this communion ; not only by the tempex in which they received the Deputa- tion, but equally by the celerity with which they deter- mined to send their delegates in retim; while the efforts which we have already made have certainly disposed us the more fully to renew and perpetuate the delightful intercourse. ••#«;* One the part could h{ and joy. cern, if i in the n to misre] tion. T mission ^ j that they )' pHsh ; th Christian — nothing done to a execution ous and th I elusion o( j haps prej unalterab one of the times, has rightly su tous; and most che€ of the ch world. It was I the Depul lished rej ibility an] >bey urgej ^hich thel I'Rtr.VCE. VII ) One should have thought, that such a nioveineut on the part of churches in diflerent regions of the glohe, could have been viewed only with unmixed satisfaction and joy. Yet the Deputation, on returning, have con- cern, if not surprise, to find that, in some quarters, and in the name of religion, their mission has been open to misrepresentation, and their motives to misconstruc- tion. They trust, however, when it is found that their mission was as catholic as the religion they profess ; that they had no political or party purposes to accom- J plish ; that their embassy wa3 one of fraternal and i Christian charity, — to express love and to invite love, 1 — nothing more and nothing less — that justice will be done to a service which, apart from the manner of its execution, demands only the approbation of the gener- ous and the good. Whatever may be the ultimate con- I elusion of those who have indulged in hasty, and per- jh afforded \ haps prejudiced objection, their judgment is fixed — ened by its | unalterably fixed. They have reason to regard it as inwaver- :e, under pt a lim- rable, on strength to those tempt has any; and gn of our is success this union hips, with- lical boun- was soon id Congre- the higher m personal s appointed that land , d affection ; indness and lave shown [lunion; not the Deputa- i they deter- while the ve certainly d perpetuate one of the noblest acts to which the church, in recent times, has given herself ; they are confident that, if rightly sustained, the consequences will be most felici- tous ; and they must regard it, in itself, as among the most cheering signs of the times, if, indeed, the union of the church is to anticipate the conversion of the world. It was no part of the engagement, that the visit of the Deputation should issue in an extended and pub- lished report. But they have been ready, with such bility an^ opportunity as they might command, to bey urgent request ; and the more so, as the interest hich the mission has created in their minds, disposes Via PREFACE. I? them to contribute to the utmost to render its efl'ects extensively and permanently beneticial. They have felt that this part of their undertaking is attended with delicacy and diiPiculty. Every blatement is likely to be seen through the medium of opposite habitt ind partialities ; and on that account alone, while it gives pleasure to one party, it may give offence to the other. All offence, indeed, might have been easily a/oided, by avoiding discrimination ; but to write without dis- crimination would bo to write without profit. They have confidence in the manliness of the American character to believe, that candid remark, when meant for improvement, will be candidly received; and if comparison and discrimination should sometimes re- veal defects on our own part, they cannot think that it must necessarily give offence. They have sought to fulfil their commission in forgetfulness of prejudice on the one hand, and partiality on the other ; and they will not suppose that, on this account, they will be deemed worthy of blame or suspicion. It were un- generous of them not to do justice to America ; but it were unnatural of them to depreciate England for the purpose of exalting America. They are truly sensi- ble that their mission is one of pure charity; they would deeply regret that it should not be consummated in this spirit ; and should it seem to be otherwise, in any instance, they crave of the reader to supply the charita- ble construction which may be wanting in the writer. The circumstances of time, of distance, and of the Deputies having, during the visit, kept seMjrate notes, made it requisite, in preparing the following volumes, that there should be a division of labour. It will be seen tl the ar append ing por respons The> to the p edgmeni during t cially th ily made were so nexions, ible sens* tions. On the questional abide and course, we not e:j shall bec< efforts to be blessec And Englj common d| London, PREFACE. IX efl'ects sy have led with ikely to bitt jnd It gives le other* a/oidedf hout dis- t. They (American en meant i; and if itimes re- think that ive sought prejudice ; and they jy will be were un- ca; but it md for the ruly sensi- irity; they isummated nse, in any he charita- the writer, and of the urate notes, ig volumes, It will be seen that the report on Canada and Pennsylvania, and the arrangements of the ^Statistical 'I'ables in the appendix, rested with Mr. Mutheson ; for the remain- ing portions, the other member of the Deputation is responsible. They cannot allow themselves to commit this work to the public, without a distinct and grateful acknowl- edgment of the manifold kindnesses expressed to them during their residence in the United States. Espe- cially they desire to assure those friends who so read- ily made them a home in their own families, when they were so entirely separated from their endeared con- nexions, that they do and must retain a deep and indel- ible sense of their affectionate and self-denying atten- tions. On the whole, as the fruits, at the time, were un- questionably good, may it not be hoped that they shall abide and improve with years? And by such inter- course, maintained on Christian principles, why may we not expect that the churches of the two countries shall become one ; the people become one ; and their efforts to benefit the world one ; till all nations shall be blessed, even as England and America are blessed ? And England and America the more blessed, for the common deed of righteousness and love ? London, April 28, 1836. A3 " Departure ception. iillil CONTENTS OF VOL. I. LETTER I. Departure from Liverpool. — Passage to New- York. — Kind Re- ception. — First Impressions .... Paqe 9 LETTER n. Invitation of the Presbytery. — Service at the Free Church.— Mercantile Distress. — Whig Celebration ... 16 LETTER III. Journey to Washington. — Chamber of Representatives. — Senate Chamber. — Congress. — President's House, &.c. — Slave Pen.— Wind Storm. — Georgetown. — Mount Vernon. — Family of Washington 22 LETTER IV. Return to New- York. — Religious Anniversaries. — Foreign Mis- sionary Society. — General Impressions ... 36 LETTER V. Excursion to Morristown ; Sabbath there. — State of Religion, and Account of a late Revival. — Journey to Philadelphia 44 LETTER VI. Meeting of the General Assembly. — Ordination of Mr. Parker.— China. — Philadelphia. — Penn's Monument. — Penitentiary. — Quakers. — Hicksites. — Return to New- York . . 50 LETTER VII. Meeting of Merchants. — Departure for Boston. — Pastoral Asso- ciation in that place. — Christian Knowledge Society. — Congre- gational Convention. — Baptist Education Society. — Old South Meeting. — Plymouth Rock. — Public Meeting. — State of the Town. — Burial-ground 61 Xil CONTENTS. l! . I I LETTER VIII. Journey to Burlington. — Lowell. — Concord. — Royalton. — Han' over. — Montpelier. — Sharon and Canterbury Shaker Settle- ments. — Emigrants. — The Gulf Road. — Waterbury. — Water- bury Falls. — Burlington. — Lake Champlain . . 74 LETTER IX. Niagara. — Queenstown. — The Falls 84 LETTER X. Journey to Buffalo. — Black Rock. — Steamboat. — Destruction of Buffalo. — Remarkable importunity of a poor Widow. — Lake Erie. — Dunkirk. — Cleaveland. — Portland. — Account of Revi- val. — Sandusky. — Columbus. — Inconveniences of travelling. — Russell's Tavern. — Log Huts. — Prairies. — German Settlers. — Storm in the Forest. — Mormonites. — Marion. — Delaware. — Worthington. — Columbus 93 LETTER XI. Journey to Cincinnati. — Jeflferson. — Yellow Springs. — Spring- field. — Storm at Night. — Lebanon. — Cincinnati. — Fourth of July. — Declaration of Independence. — Association of Minis- ters. — Lane Seminary. — State of Religion. — Servants. — State of Ohio. — Granville 108 LETTER XII. Passage to Louisville on the River Ohio. — Extreme Heat. — Mos- cheto-net. — Slaves. — Selby ville. — Frankfort. — School-House. — Kentucky Squeeze. — Lexington. — Temperance Meeting. — Revival, &c. — Romanism 120 LETTER XIII. Forest. — Owensville. — Guiandot. — Kentucky. — Camelism. — Colleges, &c. 133 LETTER XIV. Charleston. — Salt Works. — Kenawa Falls. — The Hawk's Nest. — Mountain Scenery. — Lewisburgh. — White Sulphur Springs. — Quiet Inn. — Temperance House. — North Mountain. — ^The Grand Turn. — Forest. — Roads. — Lexington . . 139 LETTER XV. Sabbath at Lexington. — African Church. — The Blacks. — Metho- dists. — Temperance Cause. — Weyer's Cave. — Inn. — New Hope. — ^Natural Bridge 160 Sacramer — Chai umenta Steamboa Hospit Norris j Remarks < 3 — Baltir Passage t Examine ment. — ] son. — Al the Patn Schenectad Night on Falls.— C Union Coll Public Dog.-: menceme Northamptc Solomon Party.— j Account f ; 8 Revival at I dith Assj Excursiol jowell. — ( Lectures I CommenI CO^T'" rs. xni ;on. — Han ler Settle- ^._Water- struction of low. — Lake nt of Revi- ravelling. — I Seitlere. — Delaware. — . 93 gs.— Spring- — Fourth of m of Minis- ants.— State 108 Heat.— Mos- chool-House. 5 Meeting. — 120 Camelism. — 133 hawk's Nest, phur Springs, untain. — ^The 139 icks. — Metho- — Inn.— New 160 LETTER XVL Sacramental Meeting. — Staunton — Revivals there. — Blue Ridge. — Charlottesville. — University. — Jefferson. — Richmond. — Mon- umental Church. — Slave Auction. — Thunder-storm . 169 LETTER XVn. Steamboat. — The Rappahannoc. - Hospitahty. — Northern Neck. Norris -Merry Point. — Scenery.— — Camp-meeting. — Deacon 183 LETTER XVin. :•^ Remarks on Camp-meetings. — Journey to Baltimore. — The Bay. I — Baltimore Slave-mart. — A Methodist Church . 302 I LETTER XIX. Passage to Philadelphia. — Princeton. — Jersey. — Theological Examination. — Library. — Present from the English Govern- ment. — New-Brunswick. — Journey to New- York. — The Hud- son. — Albany. — Saratoga. — Religious Hotel. — Troy. — Visit to the Patroon 210 LETTER XX. Schenectady. — Erie Canal. — Mohawk Valley. — Passengers. — Night on the Water. — Utica. — Oneida Institution. — Trenton Falls.— Conference 222 LETTER XXI. Union College at Schenectady. — Albany. — Female Academy. — Public Buildings. — Journey. — Pursuit of Robbers. — Faithful Dog. — Pittsfield. — Lebanon. — Windsor. — Amherst. — Com- mencement. — Hadley. — Remarkable Anecdote . 233 LETTER XXII. I Northampton. — Holyoke. — Rattlesnake. — Jonathan Edwards.— Solomon Stoddard. — Regard to Worship. — y^orals. — Young Party. — Sabbath Day. — Burial-ground. — Brainerd's Tomb. — Account of Revival. — Account of Sunday Schools . 245 LETTER XXIII. [Revival at Amherst. — Brattleborough. — The Dearborn. — Mere- dith Association. — Sacrament. — Impressions. — Conference. - Excursion. — Lake Winnipiseogee .... 266 LETTER XXIV. jowell. — Cotton Factory. — Sabbath. — Abstinence Society.— Lectures on Geology. — Andover. — Institutions. — Andover Commencement 281 2 xiv CONTENTS. it LETTER XXV. Salem. — Ipswich. — Female School. — Newburyport. — White- field's Remains. — Portsmouth. — Portland. — Orphan Asylum. -Dr. Payson. — Arrival at Boston S94 LETTER XXVL Boston. — The Mall. — Horticultural Society. — Cambridge. — Mount Auburn. — Ordination of Rev. J. Abbott. — Eliot Church. — Meeting of Merchants. — Meeting of Ministers. — Dorchester Farewell Service 803 LETTER XXVn. Hartford. — Thomas Hooker. — Charter Oak. — Conference. — Bible Meeting. — Missionary Ordination. — New-Haven. — Eli Whitney. — Yale College. — Burial-ground. — Cave of the Reg- icides. — Scenery. — Fraternal Intercourse . . 315 LETTER XXVni. Passage to New- York. — Meeting of Friends. — ^Valedictory Ser- vice. — Address to the Delegation. — Farewells. — Passage Home. — Sight of Land. — Remarkable Preservation. — Arrival at Liverpool — Kindness of Friends. — Home . 325 i! •i| t.—Whiw- a Asylum- 894 inibridge. — liot Church. -Dorchester SOS NARRATIVE, &c. &c. mference.— ; Haven. — EU of the Reg- 315 sdictory Ser- g._- Passage ion.— Arrival 325 LETTER I. My dear Friend, I REMEMBER, when Called to separate from you, that I promised to supply you with a narrative of our visit to the Western World. I originally meant to do this by a succession of letters, transmitted from date to date, as ] might change the place of observation, or find opportu- nity to copy and forward my impressions. Such, how- ever, was the pressure and continuity of my engage- I ments, as to make this quite impracticable. All that I could do was to take hasty notes, to defend me from the treachery of the memory ; in the hope that I might after- jward give them such form and correctness as might ren- jder them intelligible and acceptable to you. I now pro- Ipose to fulfil this duty ; and I have the persuasion that, lunder the circumstances, you will receive it as a real, [though a late, redemption of my promise. On the morning succeeding the very solemn and iffecting valedictory service at Zion Chapel, I left town jfor Liverpool. On arriving at that place, I was sought )ut by my esteemed friend Mr. BuUey, and kindly urged [o make his house my home. Here I was joined by Mr. ^latheson, who was to be the companion of my travels, ivery thing had been arranged by our friend for our de- j>arture ; and we had only to realize and confirm those [rrangemonts previously to our sailing. The Europe, in which vessel we had engaged our pas- sage, was announced to sail on the 16th; but we had A 3 10 EMBARCATION. I'i ! ,.$ Ifcii :! ! 1IM ! hope that as the tide would not serve till two o'clock, and as the wind was not promising in the opening of the day, that we might pass our Sabbath in quietude. With this doubtful hope we participated in the morning wor- ship at Dr. Raffles's, and had an especial place in the prayers of the church and congregation. At the close of the service the word was — " The wind serves — all on board immediately." We obeyed the summons ; parted with our friends ; joined our vessel ; and commit- ted ourselves to the ocean and to God. The passage is now so regularly made, and it has been so often described, that it is needless to offer par- ticulars. Our packet is considered one of the finest on the line ; it is fitted up in the most handsome style ; it has a table not inferior to our best inns ; it is indeed a floating hotel. Our company, too, composed as it was of all professions and pursuits, was respectable and agreeable ; they were rather disposed to respect than to depreciate us on the ground of our ministerial character ; we parted with many of them with much regret, and afterward in our travels met with some of them with sincere pleasure. Indeed, every thing was acceptable and pleasant, with the exception of close air, coffin-like cabins, restless but confined motion, and — the seasick- ness. These deductions, unhappily, belong to a sea life ; and though the allowance made for them may be various with various persons, I think it is uniformly con- siderable ; for I have always observed that both the sailor and the passenger equally admit, that the quick voyage is the good voyage. You know my admiration for the ocean ; I had one opportunity of seeing it in its majesty. We were in a smart gale of wind for a day and a half. Unwell as I was, I could not forego the unobstructed enjoyment of the scene. I got on deck, and secured myself as well as I could by the cordage, and observed in silence. Every thing was raised from its ordinary state of being, and was full of power. The calm earnestness of the captain ; the awakened and prompt attention of theS iailor ; ing and of the 1 were fu] a cord o merely d I said of i 'i up our vi I in the hi I unbroken threatenii ; then I ha i Nature ai 1 and in n what the seen it be I I will I not see tl I told that I avouch it. PilOSPECTS OP LAND. U o'clock, ling of the le. With ning wor- Lce in the ; the close erves — all summons ; id commit- and it has ) offer par- le finest on 3 style; it is indeed a d as it was sctable and )ect than to 1 character ; regret, and ' them with ( acceptable r, coffin-like the seasick- ig to a sea hem may be liformly con- lat both the hat the quick [1 ; I had one Ve were in a Unwell as I mjoyment of lyself as well d in silence, tate of being, stness of the sntion of the! sailor ; the subdued anxiety of the passenger ; the strain- ing and groaning of the vessel ; the roaring and battling of the waters as they resisted our impetuous course ; were full of sublimity. At such a time, the snapping of a cord or the starting of a plank might have brought not merely disaster, but death. But the ocean, what shall be said of it 1 When it rose in all its mightiness, and shut up our view, which was before illimitable, to a small span in the heavens ; when it stood around our little bark in unbroken mountains, as once it did around the Egyptians, threatening to ingulf us in an instant and for ever; then I had an advanced and unutterable conception of Nature and of Omnipotence. In crossing our channels, and in running along our coasts, I had thought I knew what the sea was ; but I was then satisfied I had never seen it before. I will not trouble you further with sights. We did not see the icebergs nor the sea-serpents. We were told that we saw some whales; but I should fear to avouch it. Indeed, we were now beginning to look for the land, as decidedly the most interesting object. But while searching for it, calm and fog came on, and made us in turn fearful of the object of our anxious search, i This pause to our hopes was hard to bear so near to our } haven. Every wish was now directed to the pilot-boats ; '< and when at length one was discovered, like the wing of a bird through the opening mists, there was universal joy. We felt as if, on getting the pilot on board, we should [make a decided movement towards our port. But the breeze was still faint and the fog heavy. Fogs, it is un- derstood, prevail very much at this season of the year for [many days ; and they arise from the sudden return of [hot weather, which dissolves the ice, and produces im- Imense evaporation. We moved slowly through the [Narrows into the expanding bay, and dropped anchor in Ithe evening off Staten Island, and about six miles from [the city. In the morning we quitted our vessel for a [steamboat. The mists were still heavy, and veiled every thing from sight; we lost, therefore, for the pres- 12 AlUllVAL AT NLVV-VOilK. lilii I! I 1| I ent, the view of the bay, which is admitted to be exceed' ingly good. This, with a new world before us, was but a slight disappointment. About ten o'clock I sprang on the landing at New- York, and realized the presence of a country which had long dwelt as a picture of interest and of hope in my imagination. We made the best of our way to Bunker's Hotel. Our first inquiry was for single-bedded rooms, as we un- derstood that to be the only matter of doubt. They were readily obtained ; and a black servant was com- missioned to conduct us to them. After dressing, our first concern was, to use our retirement in acknowledging the Hand which had conducted us safely over the great Atlantic ; and in committing ourselves to its renewed guidance, now that we were strangers in a strange land. Before we retired to our rooms, we had expressed a wish for some refreshment ; and I expected, on coming down, to see a little breakfast-table set for us. Nothing of this sort was, however, visible. I went into the bar- room, and looked at the papers, still waiting for a sum- mons to the anticipated refreshment. At last I ap- proached to tho bar, and ventured to ask for it. The master of the ceremonies, without speaking, placed a small basket of biscuits and a plate of cheese before us as we stood. We were amused, as well as disappoint- ed ; and, as we seemed to be without choice, we partook of the supply that was offered. We thought, at least, that the little set-out had been for us ; but while we ^J were busy with it, two or three gentlemen came up, and, without permission, or without seeking a separate knife or plate, claimed a share. We asked for a glass of wine ; a glass was literally supplied, and the decanter restored to its place. When our repast was over, we still waited in the bar-room, and must have shown some of the awkwardness of strangers. At length our host was conscious of this, and came with an apology for having forgotten to show us to a sitting-room. We were then introduced to a handsome withdrawing-room, which ^ was open to other residents at the hotel. Whil nets, yc of the cellent. The brt not con bountifu a disordt meal, on i very wel : the cons< how read ■ mitted to I naming J time, and dependoni transatlan After di ; desired to i walked up i street : its length ab I well. Th (in some m [of churche jof magnitu [first impre jThe habit 3ther shuli me sun, fered their po prevalei lyself, H( yi Englisl i^ngland ndicative »ct for c idies, wh( truck me illlip FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 13 I exceed- , was but iprang on sence of f interest f's Hotel, as we un- • ot. They was com- !9sing, our lowledging r the great ;8 renewed range land, jxpressed a , on coming I. Nothing nto the bar- r for a sum- ' last I ap- for it. The g, placed a se before us ) disappoint- , we partook ght, at least, ,ut while we \ ame up, and, iparate knife r a glass of the decanter Araa over, we shown some igth our host apology for n. We were ■room, which While I give you this incident as illustrative of man- ners, you are not to suppose that the other arrangements of the house were on a level with this : they were ex- cellent. But the case was, our appetite was out of time. The breakfast hour was past, and the dinner hour was not come ; and the American inn, while it provides bountifully for periodical hunger, has no compassion for a disorderly appetite. There is one hour, one table, one meal, one summons ; and if you are ready, you may fare very well ; if you miss the opportunity, you must digest the consequences as you can. It was interesting to see how readily the American, with his love of freedom, sub- mitted to these restraints, while John Bull insists on naming his own dinner, at his own table, at his own time, and in his own room. He has certainly more in- dependence in his habits, if not in his opinions, than his transatlantic brethren. After disposing of our snack and our host, we naturally desired to see something of the world around us. We walked up the Broadway. It is every way the principal street : its width is about that of Piccadilly, and its length about two miles and a half. It meets the eye i well. The straight line it offers to the sight is relieved, I in some measure, by the foliage of trees and the towers of churches, while it conveys to the imaginatioa a sense of magnitude and importance beyond the reality. My [first impressions from the objects were such as these. [The habitations, from frequently having the Venetian oi )ther shutters closed, as the readiest mode of excluding the sun, affected me painfully, as though death had en- Jered them. The ordinary signs of health could not be 80 prevalent as with us ; for I was continually saying to lyself. How ill that man looks. The shops are not at jill English ; they are Parisian ; indeed, nowhere but in Ingland can you meet with that shop-front which is so idicative of wealth, of the security of property, and of ict for catching the eye of the hasty passenger. The idies, who were using the Broadway as a promenade, truck me as of less stature than ours. Those who as- 3 14 NEW-YOUK. i;i pired to fashion, used Parisian dresses ; and tliey had a mincing tread, which was meant to be Parisian, but is certainly not so ; it is affectation, and therefore disagree- able. New- York is the counterpart of Liverpool ; they have grown remarkably together. At no very distant period, they both had some 5,000 inhabitants; they have ad- vanced almost thousand by thousand, and are now nearly equal in population. In point of site, Liverpool has the advantage. It springs boldly from the water, and, by its various elevation, presents more picture to the eye ; while for water conveyance, and the mere purposes of business, the advantage is with New-York. It stands on a plane only sufficiently inclined to ensure a good drainage, and of course supplies great facilities for the transit of goods. At present, Liverpool does by far the greatest amount of business ; but, because New- York has more home trade, there is with it a greater show of mercantile activity and life. This city is really worthy of the reputation she has for the frequency of the fires. There were six to my knowl- edge in ten days. They appear to arise partly from wood being the common fuel, which is less safe than coal ; and partly from flues being carried through frame- buildings, which is very hazardous. Some, however, as with ourselves, are intentional ; persons of bad principle and embarrassed circumstances abuse the benefit of en- surance, and seek to save themselves by fire, reckless of whom they destroy. In the afternoon of the day, we were kindly waited on by Drs. Cox and Peters, and the Rev. W. Patton. They came as a deputation from the Third Presbytery, which was then in session. They stated that they were in- structed to invite us to attend its sittings, and to accept . of accommodations which had been made in Mr. Patton's family in expectation of our arrival. We accepted the invitations in the spirit in which they were given ; and were refreshed by intercourse with brethren whom we" had known and esteemed in the Father Land. M ONtl rangemi } the inv: ' thirty p< erator, ir We wei They an our comn ed and t terest. In the license. He read i piety. Ii that the e selves. . to the sulf [ obtained, J We hal I on the Sa] I in the voj I I was ar, [which 1 f(j jour stay ]tended at giving anc on our ace hing the gjj |o an act F God ; [esemblanj I he order! THE PRESBYTERY. 15 ey had a in, but is disagree- hey have nt period, have ad- ow nearly ol has the ind, by its the eye; irposes of It stands ure a good ties for the I by far the New-York er show of I she has for p my knowl- partly from IS safe than ough frame- however, as ad principle enefit of en- iire, reckless ly waited on itton. They )ytery, which hey were in- ind to accept iMr. Patton's accepted the given; and ren whom we" | ind. LETTER II. Mv DEAR Friend, On the following day, according to the previous ar- rangement, we changed our habitation, and did honour to the invitation of the Presbytery. There were about thirty persons present. We were received by the Mod- erator, in the name of the body, with affectionate respect. We were glad to observe their methods of business. They are similar to those with which we are famiUar in our committee meetings. Several subjects were discuss- ed and disposed of ; but they were only of ordinary in- terest. In the afternoon a young man was on trial for his license. His examination at this sitting was theological. He read a theme which discovered fair talent and true piety. It was pretty closely discussed, I could see that the examiners were not quite agreed among them- selves. This circumstance gave an unnatural perplexity to the subject, as well as to the person examined. He obtained, however, the favourable suffrage of his brethren. We had declined all application for ministerial service on the Sabbath after our arrival. I had suffered so much in the voyage as to leave me unfit for it ; and besides, I was anxious to improve an occasion for hearing, jwhich 1 foresaw it would be more difficult to secure as jour stay advanced. On the morning of the day we at- :ended at Laight-street Church, and united in the thanks- giving and prayers which Dr. Cox affectionately offered in our account. It was an affecting thing, afler traver- ling the great deep, to commit one's self for the first time [o an act of worship, in a strange land, with the people if God ; and it was the more affecting from the strong resemblance it has to what we most enjoy at home, 'he order of service, the singing, the hymns, the tunes, 16 FREE CHURCH. I- H- the sermon, the devout aspect of the congregation, were as our own. It brouglit one directly into a state of feU lowship ; it destroyed the sense of distance, uiid disposed one feelingly to say, •» No more a strangpr or a guflst, But liko a child at home," In the evening of the day we went to the opening of a free church. Of the nature of this class of provision for the religious wants of the people, I shall have occa- sion to speak in another connexion. It was to be open- ed by a protracted meeting, running through the week ; and Mr. K., an active revivalist preacher, was to take the service. We had reason to expect, that, at such a time, he would try the effect of the anxious seat. The exterior of the church was void of all taste ; but it was large, and apparently well built. The ground - tioor was fitted up for schools : the superior floor was the area of Uie church ; and although this was at an ele- vation of some twenty steps, there were above it two tiers of galleries, and these running along three sides of the place. It would accommodate 2000 persons ; and I suppose 1500 might be in it. The service was good ; the sermon very good. I had been led to think that I might hear some statements which might be deem- ed extravagant ; but there was in this exercise nothing of the kind. The preacher was evidently pious and truly in earnest : his statements were plain and scriptural : his appeals were popular, appropriate, and direct to the conscience and the heart. The impression was strong and general on the people. When the sermon would have closed with us, I ob- served that the preacher was giving his remnrka a nev/ direction; and I was speedily led to conclude, thr^ he was about to try the anxious seat. He if i; 'tid lo justify the measure, and then to challenge the people to use it, as a means and expression of religious decision. Tl.e persons occupying the two seats immediately before th'j pulpit were requested to vacate them, that the anx- ANXIOUS SEAT. 17 lous might .; thorn. Then a pause 'occurred Two or throe females, by decrees, appeared on 1 1"' end <■' \^ seat. The preacher, with some of the awkwurdnoss of disappointment upon him, renewed h, - addn md urged the young persons, and especially the young men, to decision, and to this mode of expressing it. Another pause was made ; but no young men came. Dr. L., the minister of the church, renewed the appeal ; and employ- ed rests m difft i ent parts of it, as if waiting for signs of compli; i • ; xn t when he saw that no greater effect was likelv to ImUo \ iie changed the terms of the invitation, ar.d ! ''prt'd all those who wished to be prayed for to pome forward. He then gave cut a suitable hymn ; and vvliile this was singing, the congregation began to dis- perse ; and many serious persons, as might be expected, went, before the pulpit to join in the proposed act of prayer. It was by this time nearly ten o'clock, and we left with the congregation. This, then, was the first occasion on which I saw the anxious seat employed ; and if employed, I can hardly conceive of its being with less extravagance or more sagacity ; but it was certainly a failure. Without de- ciding here on the abstract merits of this measure, its adoption in this instance was assuredly bad. The ser- mon had shed seriousness over the congregation, and had produced tenderness on many ; and had they been allow- ed to retire at a suitable hour for reflection in their closets, one could not avoid hoping that the effect would have been most happy. As it was, I had deep regret. When it was felt, indeed, by the people, that the seat was to be used, there was a sensible excitement pro- duced, which the novice might commend, but which the judicious would deprecate. I could perceive that a large portion of the people were excited to see how others would act in this crisis, and were thus relieved from thinking of themselves ; while another portion, composed of such as had been affected by the discourse, feared that they should be overcome by the alarming appeals usual to such occasions, and by diverting their attention, stop- 2* 18 MERCANTILE DISTRESS. i< I -I ping their ears, or a suppressed shuddering, told you that they were hardening themselves into resistance as weU as they could. But I must offer a different picture to your attention. You are aware that the time of our arrival in New- York was one of great excitement. Without indulging in po- litical opinion, it may be understood that this excitement wa«^ . reated by some decided measures recently adopted by tl.., Government relative to the National Bank. Those measures, whether good or ill in their issue, had so shaken public credit, that two hundred and fifty mercan- tile houses were p-ostrate in insolvency, and their vibra- tions were felt in the remote parts of Europe. A muni- cipal election was about to happen, and it was proposed to make a matter of local and limited interest the test of opinion on the policy of the General Government. The polling for the city elections is taken in the different wards, and it usually occurs not only without danger to the peace, but without interruption to business. On this occasion, however, there was a riot in one of the wards. The losing party, with its other losses, as is usual, lost its temper ; and when it could not succeed in obtaining votes, set itself to breaking heads. Some twenty per- sons were seriously hurt in the affray. A slight show of military power prevented farther evil. If these things were to happen, I was not sorry to see them, as they throw up national character ; but the good citizens were greatly scandalized that such scenes should disgrace them as had never happened, they said, in the republic before. The Whigs, as the friends of the Bank strangely call- ed themselves, although they had not the majority of votes, considered that they had gained the victory ; and they were resolved on a Whig celebration. I readily accepted a ticket of admission, as it enlarged my field of observa- tion. I must endeavour to place it before you. The place of celebration was the Battery ; and the manner was by a collation and speeches. The Battery stands on a slip of open ground at the end of the Broadway and butting on the Hudson river. It is now dismantled; not being recreatior thousand and it wa ceeded in I We as( \ circle, an( ; fitted up i tors. W( which wai the port b which had here. On flags, woo painted w number of with nothi ence gave ed to be m sel which pared befoi for the spe the pauses were floati Immediate national fl; lation of tw orations m placed on of liberty At this gagements The Ame: their refrej tend to sue who had si giving then and the re were mad< III ;f WHIG CELEBRATION. 19 not being used for purposes of defence^fcut for those of recreation and amusement. When we arrived many thousand persons were assembled within and without ; and it was after delay, and with difficulty, that we suc- ceeded in making an entrance. We ascended to the bulwarks, which are built in a circle, and are usually a promenade, but which were now fitted up with a gallery of seats, and filled with specta- tors. We looked on a circular area of large dimensions, which was also crowded with people. Opposite us was the port by which we entered, and over it some rooms which had been provided for the officers formerly on duty here. On the roofing, parapets, and abutments, were flags, wooden guns, and a rigged vessel surmounting painted waves. This dumb show was animated by a number of spectators, whose ambition could be satisfied with nothing less than the highest point ; but their pres- ence gave a ludicrous air to the whole, as there appear- ed to be men sitting in the ocean, and upholding a ves- sel which should have held them. A balcony was pre- pared before the windows of the rooms I have named, for the speakers ; a band of music was beneath, to fill in the pauses ; colours were displayed in all directions, and were floating gracefully over the many-headed multitude. Immediately over us, and opposite the rostrum, was the national flag, with its dark blue field and brilliant constel- lation of twenty-four stars ; and above it, that all the dec- orations might not be void of reality, was a living eagle, placed on a perch, and fastened by the leg, as the emblem of liberty ! At this moment there was a pause in the regular en- gagements ; but the good people were by no means idle. The Americans, who are quick to dine, had finished their refreshments. Many were evidently ready to at- tend to such addresses as might be made ; but many also, who had sat down to eat, rose up to play. These were giving themselves to all manner of practical jokes. Hats and the remnants of bread were fliying about ; ladders were made of human shoulders to convey water, and 20 WHIG CELEBRATION. glasses, and bread, from those in the area to those in th« galleries ; while in the centre of the picture a far more earnest group were surrounding and surmounting some barrels of beer, the contents of which they were exhaust- ing with alarming speed. A cry was made for silence and attention. The music stopped ; but the multitude seemed little disposed to listen. A carman, with his frock on, came to the balco- ny. The fellow-feeling which the more noisy had with him disposed them to attention. That class of persons in New- York is thriving and respectable ; and this man was one of the best of his class. He had the good sense to make a short speech; and he uttered himself with plain sense, stout honesty, and especially with decision on the Whig side of the question. Trade, and of course, carts and wagons, had a vital interest in it. When he finished, hurrahs rang round the bulwarks, and ascended into the air ; and that nothing might be wanting to the scene, the man who had the care of the eagle twitched the string, and made the bird flap its wings over the as- sembly. But heroics did not long suit them ; they eager- ly returned to gossip, or to sport, or to the barrels in the centre of the court, which were still rising in popular favour. Another call was made, and one of their orators came forward. He had no doubt claims on them, from his zeal in the cause, but he could have little to oratory, or the people would have been more sensible of it. He raised a stentorian voice ; but in vain. Those at the windows and beneath him gazed and shouted ; but his words died in his own atmosphere, and could not subdue the conflicting sounds in the distance. This gave a new character to the picture. Speech-making and sport, the grave and the gay, were so mixed and opposed, as to make the whole, to an eye like Hogarth's, exceedingly amusing and comical ; while the numbers of the meeting, the beauty of the thronged amphitheatre, opening only into the bright blue heavens, saved it from the trivial, and made it interesting and delightful. I observed it for f I some til the asse I sooi become 1 abreast. •• Webster processit The peo I him. H j been heai I with bow J few short [ received The proc( As this of this inti States. [ than I hai and there audible es more, cert! membered, memorativ( before ther tention. We to thosi son intoxi^ squabble, remarkablf nine propril single feml provoke th( but they wj ready done| town. The evel T.'s. Iwl sketch of 3 meeting. EVENINO PARTY. 21 se in th« far more ng some exhaust- 'he music iposed to he balco- had with f persons this man pod sense iself with I decision of course, When he ascended ;ing to the B twitched ver the as- hey eager- rels in the in popular ators came I, from his oratory, or of it. He ose at the d ; but his not subdue gave a new d sport, the osed, as to jxceedingly he meeting, )ening only trivial, and irved it fot some time ; and then, as the more respectable portion of the assembly was moving off, I prepared to leave with it. I soon found myself moving with a body which had become processional, walking in order, and three or four abreast. It was understood that the celebrated Daniel Webster was at a house in the neighbourhood, and the procession moved in that direction into the Broadway. The people gathered about the residence and cheered him. He advanced to the window. He could not have been heard in a speech, and therefore contented himself with bowing, and throwing out at the top of his voice a few short sentences as watchwords to the party. They received them with hurrahs, and passed on in order. The procession must have been quite a mile in length. As this was the first, so it was the largest assemblage of this interesting people, which I witnessed while in the States. There was less of dignity and gravity about it than I had been led to expect from so grave a people ; and there was more of English animation, humour, and audible expression of opinion, than I looked for, and more, certainly, than is usual. It is, however, to be re- membered, that this was not a deliberative, but a com- memorative occasion ; and there was no crisis directly before them to point the speeches or to quicken the at- tention. On the whole, it was a meeting highly credita- ble to those who composed it. I saw not a smgle per- son intoxicated; nor did I hear afterward of a single squabble, or of a pocket spoiled of its contents. It is [ remarkable, too, and indicative of a great sense of femi- nine propriety, that I saw not within or about the place a single female. It was feared that the meeting might provoke the Tories to come and create a disturbance; but they were satisfied with the mischief they had al- ready done, and remained quiet at the West End of the [town. The evening of this celebration day was spent at Mr. [T.'s. I wish it accorded with my plan to give you a ksketch of the party which we had the gratification of [meeting. Suffice it to say, that though it was composed y 38 WASHINGTON. I.': of the friends of temperance, there was no want of ele- gant refreshments ; that though composed of rehgious persons, it was cheerful and refined ; that though com- posed of the two sexes, there was no want of case in the intercourse or variety in the conversation ; and that though composed of Americans, there was no lack of good-breeding or benevolent attentions. In fact, that it was the reverse of every thing lately held up to ridicule under the denomination of "domestic manners," and equal to any thing to be found, of its own grade, in the parent country. LETTER III. My dear Friend, I MUST now take you with me to Washington, without pausing to expatiate on the Hudson, or Philadelphia, or Baltimore, in our way. A more favourable opportunity will occur for a brief notice of them. Among the advantages of our speedy passage was the redemption of time ; and of the timo so redeemed I was anxious to make the best possible use. It appear- ed to us that no appropriation of spare time could be better than that of employing it for a visit to the capital, and the Congress which was then sitting ; since it would not be possible to have a well-balanced opinion of the country we were visiting, in total ignorance of the char- acter and proceedings of the American Parliament. It took us three days to overcome the distance. The first two days we travelled by steamboat, or rail-road, and very pleasantly. The last doy was mostly consu- med in going from Baltimore to Washington ; we were nearly seven hours in going less than forty miles, and sometimes with six horses. The road, though the high- way to the capital, was exceedingly bad ; in many parts - it was s others it paving-st cept that disposed This w it calls f coach wh strong, to outside pa I each seat of externa elbow upv\ ; canopy, i shutters, p tains for th ^ well in the I fortable in seats the v [ hot, we ho] [cleared the [large, soug occupied th jrected his i I corners, aru I He showed inot regarde ■had the ^•eed," and and he as [looked on n he looked o Bex, he put |nto the roa prised at th i^as so ofte vhh him i^as the mo issue. ! Ill ThE STAGECOACH. 23 rh com- oase in and that lack of t, that it ridicule rs," and e, in the n, without ielphia, or pportunity sage was sdeemed I It appear- 1 could be !:ie capital, ze it would ion of the f the char- tnent. nee. The rail-road, ttly consu- ; we were miles, and ;h the high- many parts. it was several inches deep in dust and sand, and in others it was clogged with loose stones as big as our paving-stones. No excuse could be offered for this, ex- cept that they were constructing a rail-road, and so were disposed to consign it to premature ruin. This was the first time of using their stagecoach, and it calls for notice. It is very like the single-bodied coach which you have seen in France. It is heavy and strong, to meet the condition of the roads. It carries no outside passengers ; but it has three seats within, and each seat receives three persons. To atone for the want of external accommodation, it is open all round, from the elbow upwards, and the roof takes the appearance of a canopy. If you wish to be enclosed, there are sliding shutters, partially glazed, to the doors, and leather cur- tains for the other openings ; a provision that may do very well in the summer, but which must be far from com- fortable in the really cold weather. When we took our seats the vehicle was not full : and as the day was very : hot, we hoped not to be crowded ; but before we had cleared the skirts of the town, three men, rough and [large, sought admittance. Myself and an elderly lady occupied the back seat, and the stoutest of the three di- irected his movements towards us. We retired into our corners, and left him what room we could in the middle jHe showed some desire for the outer seats ; but this was [not regarded, and he took his place. I soon saw that he Ihad the abominable habit of chewing the "noisome j^eed," and began to fear for myself and the good lady ; ind he as soon began to look about him for relief He [looked on my side ; I sat forward and looked very grave ; le looked on the lady, and regarding her as the weaker sex, he put his head forward and spat across her face Into the road. Nobody, not even the lady, seemed sur- prised at this, though she must have been annoyed. It ^as so often repeated as to induce her to change seats nth. him ; and T fear it must be said that the annoyance 7diS the more readily renewed in the hope of such an Issue. :'F" 24 WASHINGTON. On the whole, it was an unpleasant ride. The country was not interesting ; and, what with the heat of the day, the dust of the road, the crowded state of the coach, and our slow progress, we were rendered weary and unwell. We were glad to be set down at Gadsby's Hotel, which is very large, has good accommodations, and would be all you could desire if somewhat cleaner. In the morning I did not find myself much refreshed by rest. The glass had dropped down from 80° to 70"^, and being chilly and feverish, I determined to take a tepid bath, and was directed to an estabhshment at the back of the hotel for that purpose. It was certainly a poor affair for such a place as Washington. An old woman with the occasional help of her daughter, was in attendance. She showed me to a room. It was a mere closet, with a wooden bath, a brick floor, and no fire- place ; and the passage was the waiting-room. She be- gan to supply it w ith water ; but I saw she had no guide to the heat. I said, " I want it at 90 degreos." — " It will do, sir," was her reply. Unsatisfied, I said, " Have you no thermometer 1" — " no ; it was broke time ago." — " It is a strange thin?'/' I said, " to have a batli establishment and no thermometer !" — " O," she cried. " I'sc can tell, as is used to it — It's blood heat — I know it's blood heat." And so saying she left me. I tried it; it was 96° or 98°. Tliis was not all. Another gentleman came and ordered a bath. The cocks leaked : so that when the hot water was turned on his bath from the main pipe, it began to flow into mine, and I was in danger of getting hotter than I wished. There was no bell ; and my only remedy was in quitting it earlie; than I designed. Washington is well placed on a fork of the Potomac, The plan of the city is magnificent ; it is laid down in right lines, answering to the cardinal points of the com- pass, and these are intersected by diagonal lines to pre- vent a tiresome uniformity of aspect. It is a city that is to be, however ; and is never likely to become what was intended, as its distance from the sea, and other disad- } vantages waiting t It is com but from I meanness ■V- I unfinishec 'I the utmoi I about her I does not ' is a city I cending xi buildings the Capito 120 feet would, ind growth of We wer I minister of on our rei against usi an inn. \1 and passec my memory Our first] acquainted] [anxious to jof Represeil f sight, large room! arble cohj hairman, 1 ■he straighl ould findf leats of tl gallery he half cii hole ple£ cupied ; Vol. I.. f sight. It is indeed highly imposing. It is a very large room, with its roof sustained by tv»renty-four fine larble columns of grand dimensions. The President, or chairman, has a raised and canopied seat in the centre of the straight line, with more glitter about it than you rould find about the British throne ; and the desks and seats of the members diverge from it in radiating lines. gallery runs behind the pillars, through the course of the half circle. The general impression was not on the ?hole pleasing. Less than one third of the place was ;cupied ; and the empty space and large proportions of Vol. I B 3 % 26 CHAMBER OF REPRESENTATIVES. ■J is I I the room give a diminutiveness and insignificance to the persons present. There was not much of interest in this house at the time. But I heard one speech that was certainly long, and that was considered to be good. The speaker rose from his desk ; his speech lay written before him ; he delivered it, however, without much reference to the document, and with a strong voice and energetic man- ner. But it was all a forced effort, and of necessity it was such. No one listened to him, and he seemed to expect no one to listen. It wao understood by both par- ties that he was using the house as a medium of speech to his constituents across the Alleganies ; and they seemed content to have it so. It is in this way that the floor is occupied here for t- o or more days together; and that the most importaiit business of the State is postponed or neglected, while the house is afflicted with speeches which none will hear, and which are meant to be pamphlets that, with few exceptions, none will read. The celebrated Colonel Crockett made an advance on this vicious usage, and it would be a great relief if his proposal were acted on. It is said he rose and claimed the notice of the chair, and stated that he had many times tried to obtain the floor, but had been so unfortu- nate as not to succeed ; that he was now leaving to visit his constituents ; and as he could not then deliver his speech, he begged to know whether he might publish it as a speech intended to have been delivered in the Con- gress. People were so uncandid, however, in the colonel's case, as to think this was a mere trick ; and that he wanted to impress the public with a belief that he had sought an opportunity to make an important speech, but had not been able to find it, when in fact he had no such speech to deliver. The Senate Chamber is of far less size, and of no pre- tensions ; but it is well adapted to its uses, and there- fore gives thr eye satisfaction. All the interest, too, at this time, was here. The larger house had agreed to MEMBERS OF CONGRESS. 27 sustain the President in his measures against the Bank ; but in tlie Senate, some strong resolutions had been adopted against them. The President sent down a pro- test on the subject, and the excitement was raised to the highest. The occasion called up all their best speakers ; and if they spoke with less preparation, they spoke under those present impulses which throw out a man's best thoughts in 'lis best manner. It was really a fine oppor- tunity. Were it not that one is aware what confusion will arise among shrewd men, by the action of strong party prejudices and sudden excitation, it would have been concluded that this deliberative body had very small knowledge of the laws of debate. The discussion soon turned from the principal subject to a point of order, and strange to say, it was two days in disposing of this point of order. The party opposed to the protest proposed some resolutions to the effect that the protest be not re- ceived, and for reasons contained in the protest. Their object was to prevent the protest being entered on the records ; but their resolutions made it necessary. The other party saw this error, and proposed, as an amend- ment, that the word not be omitted, and for reasons con- tained in the protest ; so that which ever way they dealt with it, they would do what the objecting party wished to avoid — place the protest on the minutes. None of them could see their way out of this ! They contended that the protest was received, and that it was not received ; that no amendment could be proposed which was a contradiction to the original proposition : they applied to the chair ; they applied from the chair to the senate ; and from the senate back again to the chair ; till they were more than thrice confounded. The Senate is now unusually rich in distinguished men. In this, and some following discussions, we heard most of them : Clay, Webster, Calhoun, Clayton, Leigh, Ewing, Frelinghuysen, and Forsyth. I should like to give you a sketch of these men, as they dwell in my memory, but opportunity fails me ; and perhaps I might B2 S8 CONGRESH. do them some injustice if I attempted any tiling more than general impression, from such slight opportunities of know- ing them. Suffice it to say, Clay's strength is in popular address ; Webster's, in cool argument ; Calhoun's, in his imagination, and his weakness too ; FreUnghuysen's, in his truly Christian character; Swing's, in his stout honesty, notwithstanding his bad taste and false quo- tations ; and Forsyth's, in his vanity — certainly, in my eye, the very image of self-complacency. On the whole, I was much gratified in becoming ac- quainted with the Congress of this great empire. Yet I must candidly admit, that it fell somewhat below my ex- pectations. In its presence I was not impressed, as I think I should have been in tho presence of the men who signed the Declaration ; and my eye wandered over the assembly, anxiously seeking another Washmgton, who, by his moral worth, mental sagacity, and unquestionable patriotism, should, in a second crisis, become the confi- dence and salvation of his country ; but it wandered in vain. Such a one might have been there ; the occasion might bring out many such ; but I failed to receive such an impression. Nor do I think, on the whole, that the representation is worthy of the people. It hus less of a religious character than you would expect from so re- ligious a people ; and it has also less of an independent character than should belong to so thiiving a people. But as matters stand, it is now only a sacrifice for the thriving man to be a member of Congress ; while, to the needy man, it is a strong temptation. In this state of things, it is not wonderful that the less worthy person should labour hard to gain an election ; or that, when it is gained, he should consider his own interests rather than those of his constituents. The good Americans must look to this, and not suffer themselves to be ab- sorbed in the farm and merchandise ; lest, on an emer- gency, they should be surprised to find their fine country, and all its fine prospects, in the hands of a few ambitious and ill-principled demagogues. It was pleasing to find that a number of the membexs. were forn smaller n\ religious whose mi ence, hnv( elusion th institutions Before sketch it? abrupt on ficial. Tl The erect though sti posed of graced wii the portici more so, f to them. the roof. It is, howe ing, and t effect. T which was of Italy, I would saj basin of w The Pr and the tv niusofthe erection i resembles gentlemar of Washi chief maj Our ki many lett them was we had n by one o PRESIDENTS HOUSE. 29 "! were formed into a Temperance Society ; and that a smaller number were accustomed to meet weekly for religious exercises. Many of the elder members too, whose minds are certainly not under a religious influ- ence, have, since the days of Jefferson, come to a con- clusion that religion is essential to the stability of their institutions. This is salutary. Before leaving the Capitol, do you expect that I should sketch it ? It stands on a swell of land, which is so abrupt on one side as to have the effect of being arti- ficial. The inclination should be made far less acute. The erection is of very large dimensions, approaching, though still very distant, to our St. Paul's. It is com- posed of two wings and a centre ; and the centre is graced with steps, portico, and dome. The columns of the portico are too slender ; and they are made to look more so, from the oppressive flights of steps which lead to them. The smaller domes and semicircular lights in the roof, are dissights which might readily be avoided. It is, however, with these and other faults, a grand build- ing, and everywhere in the distance has a very striking effect. There is, in its principal front, a monument which was prepared in Italy. It is not only unworthy of Italy, but of America. Were the names not on it, it would say nothing ; and, worse than all, it stands in a basin of water. The President's house is the reverse of the Capitol; and the two places might be supposed to indicate the ge- nius of the people. It has no pretensions ; but is a plain erection in the Grecian style ; and, in size and aspect, resembles greatly the modern dwelling of our country gentleman. It is, however, not unsuitable to the claims of Washington, and the other provisions made for the chief magistrate by the constitutions Our kind friends had taken care to supply us with many letters of introduction for Washington, and among them was one for the President. If we had intended, we had no occasion to use it. An intimation was made by one of the household that the President would have 3* 30 VISIT TO Tlin PHHWIDENT. pleasure in receiving a call from us. It was of course accepted. It was in the evening of the day , and Mr* Post was with us. We were rfctived with respect, but without formality. The President is tall ; full six feet in height. He stoops now, ami is evidently feeble. The thermometer was at 72°, but he was near a strong fire. He is sixty-eight years of age. He is soldier-like and gentlemanly in his carriage ; his manners were courteous and simple, and put us immediately at ease with him. He conversed freely ; chielly of the older country, as interesting to us. He expressed pleasure at the growing intercourse between the countries ; at the arrival of ourselves as a deputation in evidence of this ; and at the prospect there vas of continued peace, He spoke of the Banking queslion also without reserve. He thought there was a resemblance between the state of the moneyed interest in America, and its state with us in 1825, and was desirous of information. We conversed of it freely, and for some time. Without judging his opinions, with which, as •^'ey are political, I have nothing to do in this communication, my impression was, that he held them with a strong conviction that they were right, and beneficial for the country. After remaining about half an hour, we took our leave, with very pleasant recollections of our interview. Some days afterward we received an invitation to dine with the President. By this time the excitement on the Bank question had risen very high ; and it was re- ported that his dwelling was guarded by troops, from fear of assault on his person. Instead of which there was less of form than before. When we arrived, the entrance-doors were open ; and on being conducted, by a single servant, to what we thought an ante-room, we found the general himself waiting to receive us. We were soon led into the dining-room. The table was laid only for six persons ; and it was meant to show us re- spect, by receiving us alone. Mr. Post, whom the President regards as his minister, was requested to im- plore a blessing. Four men were in attendance, and at- I WOUSIIII' AT MR. post's. 31 course id Mr. :t, but X feet feeble, strong A \ tpndcd well. Every thing was good and sufficient ; nothing overcharged. It was a moderate and elegant repast. After dinner, wo retired to the drawing-room. Con- versation was there renewei. ; and by the general on the Bank affairs. It was a delicate subject ; we passed from it to other interests of the new country. On leaving, the President inquired of our route ; and when he found that I was designing to travel into the west, very obligingly pressed me, if I should visit Tennessee, to tarry at the Hermitage, the name of his estate in that country, and to which he retires in the summer. The President regularly attends on public worship at Mr. Post's, when he is well. On the following Sabbath morning I was engaged to preach. Himself and some fifty or sixty of the Congress were present. His manner was very attentive and serious. When the service had ended, I was a little curious to see how he would be noticed. I supposed that the people would give way, and let him pass out first, and that a few respectful in- clinations of the head would be offered. But no ; he was not noticed at all ; he had to move out, and take his turn like any other person, and there was nothing at any time to indicate the presence of the chief magistrate. You might be disposed to refer this to the spirit of their institutions ; but it has a closer connexion with the character of the people. They have, in most of the States, less aptitude to give expression to their senti- ments than the English. When afterward the general was passing through Lexington, on his way home, where a strong feeling existed on the part of the merchants against him, I inquired if any marks of disapprobation were offered to him. The reply was, " O no, we merely kept out of his way, and allowed him to change horses, and go on without notice." I think it may be safely said that John Bull would have acted differently in both cases : in the one, he would have offered some decided marks of respect ; and in the other, he would not have been backwarid to show that he was offiended. 32 WIND-STORM. It was at Washington we first saw the slave-pen. It is usually a sort of wooden shed, whitewashed, and at- tached to the residence of a slave-dealer. Slaves are bought up here, as at other places, to forward to the south : the gain is considerable, and the inducement in proportion. The slaves have great horror of this. One poor woman, who was expecting to be thus transferred, lately escaped ; and on being pursued, she jumped over the bridge, choosing death rather than such a life. But I shall have other opportunities for this subject : let it be sufficient to remark, that here these enormities are the more flagrant, as they are acted under the eye of the Capitol, a capitol for ever echoing with " Rights of man," " The essential equality of man," and a thousand such expressions. There are here a great many of the coloured people who are free ; and they appear to thrive. They attend in large numbers to worship, and have lately purchased the place in which Mr. Post's congregation did formerly assemble. I attended on one occasion : it was full, and they were very serious. They are Episcopal Methodists ; their bishop was with them, and they were holding a con- ference. It was a high time. It was remarkable to have a white person among them. On leaving, they were happy to be spoken to and free to converse. I also was happy to realize that they held with us a common faith and the common hope of salvation. While at Washington, I first witnessed the wind- storm, which is common in this country. It is peculiar — sometimes awful. The morning had been iiot, and the sky fair ; I had been to the Senate, and was now resting and writing in my chamber. Quietly the soft and re- freshing breezes went down ; a haze came over the sun, so that it shone as behind a gauze curtain. Every noise was stilled, except that of the frog, which was unpleas- antly audible. The sky got silently darker and darker ; the atmosphere became oppressive ; and not a breath of air was felt. Suddenly, in the distance, you would see things in commotion; and, while every thing was yet I ; '■; ft MOUNT VERNON. 33 quiet about you, you might hear the distant roaring of the wind. Then the cattle run away to their best shelter ; then the mother calls in her heedless children ; and the housewife flies from story to story, to close her windows and shutters against the entrance of the coming foe. Now the dust, taken up in whirlwinds, would come fly- ing along the roads ; and then would come the rush of wind, which would make every thing tremble, and set the doors, windows, and trees flying, creaking, and crashing around you. You would expect the torrent to fall and the thunder to roll ; but no, there was neither rain nor thunder there. It was wind, and wind alone ; and it wanted nothing to increase its power on the imagination. It raged for a few minutes, and then passed as suddenly away, leaving earth and sky as tranquil and as fair as it found them. It is not easy to account for this very sud- den destruction and restoration of an eqivlibrium in na- ture. The phenomenon, however, supplies a fine illus- tration of some striking passages in holy Scripture. We spent one day with Dr. Laurie before we left the city. He is a Scotchman, and happy to commune with any from the parent land. He has been many years here, in the Presbyterian church, and holds an office un- der government ; but he has lost none of his nationality. He was kind enough to take us to Georgetown. Here is a Catholic seminary of some celebrity : it is a great help to the Catholic interest, and is nourished from Europe. It is said that the bishop of the district has lately received 25,000 dollars from the pope. We paused to take refreshment at Colonel Bumford's, for the sake of knowing an amiable family ; of seeing a nice cot- tage, in somewhat English style, situated on a beautiful estate, commanding fine views of the river and of the city. We afterward rode over the heights ; and I was thankful to our friend for this excursion, as, without it, we should not have formed so just an opinion of Wash- ington and its vicinity. We could not quit this neighbourhood without visit- ing Mount Vernon, the place where Washington lived B3 I ' '( r 34 TOMB OF WASHINGTON. and died, and is entombed. We left early in the morn- ing, with Mr. Post, by steamboat to Alexandria. This tuwn is on the margin of the river. It presents what is, in this country, an unusual spectacle of a place in a state of declension. It had a population of 10,000 per- sons, but it has now not more than 7,000, and there is an air of desolation on it. We engaged a carriage here to take us to Vernon, a distance of nine miles ; and we were two hours and a half going, with good cattle. However, it was a fine spring morning ; the hill-sides were pretty ; most of our way was through the forest, and the woodlands were bursting into life. We were not sorry to feel that we were getting out of the world ; and were much delighted with the number of wild- flowers which were expanding to the sun. The ground- honeysuckle, and the brilliant dogwood, especially en- gaged us. About a mile and a half before you reach the house, we entered the estate. It is in fact a continuation of the forest ; as wild, as quiet, and as beautiful. We were received by a black servant, old and worn out in the ser- vice of the family. We presented our cards, and the servant was instructed to attend us over the grounds. We walked quietly round. They assorted with our feel- ings. Every thing had an appearance of desertion and decay. No hand of repair had seemed to have passed over the cottage, the garden, the plantations. We were about to visit the dead, and all was dying around us, ex- cept only vegetation, and that had been allowed to grow so thick and high, as to throw heavy shadows and quiet solemnity on all things. At length we descended a bank, and stood before the tomb of Washington. It is built of brick, with an iron door. All, except the face of the vault, is hidden ; it is grown over with dwarf cedar and forest-trees. I cannot tel) you my emotions. I chiefly longed for hours to rest there in silence and solitude. We went to the cottage. The interior was in har- mony with all the external appearances. We were re- ' SUPREJ IN DISAS FAMILY OF VVASHINGTuN. 35 le morn- ,. This what is, ace in a OOO per- there is age here and we d cattle, lill-sides le forest, We were e world ; of wild- 5 ground- :ially en- le house, ion of the kVe were i\ the ser- $, and the grounds. our feel- irtion and ve passed We were nd us, ex- d to grow and quiet before the th an iron den ; it is I cannot ars to rest ceived in the library ; it was just as the general had left it. We saw the curiosities : they were just where he had placed them. The inmates, too, were affectingly in keeping. Three females : a widow, an orphan, and an unprotected sister. And they moved and spoke as if the catastrophe had just happened, and they had dried up their tears to receive us. I shall never forget that day. I have had more pleasure and more melancholy ; but I never had more of the pleasure of melancholy. Mrs. Jane Washington was indisposed ; but she sent us kind messages as to Englishmen, and some small re- membrances of the place and the departed. We wound our way quietly from the cottage, and we soon left the domain, perhaps for ever, which was once dignified by the presence, and which is still sacred by the remains of Washington : — washington, the brave, the wise, the good .* washington, supreme in war, in council, and in peace : washington, valiant without ambition ; discreet without fear; and confident, without presumption: washington, in disaster calm; in success moderate; in all HIMSELF : WASHINGTON, THE HERO, THE PATRIOT, THE CHRISTIAN; THE FATHER OF NATIONS, THE FRIEND OF MANKIND ; WHO, WHEN HE HAD WON ALL, RENOUNCED ALL ; AND SOUGHT, IN THE BOSOM OF HIS FAMILY AND OF NATURE RETIREMENT ; AND IN THE HOPT OF RELIGION, IMMORTALITY. I i Forgive me, my dear friend, this ebullition. I never 36 TEMPERATURE. I': '■ can turn lo the name of Washington without enthusiasm. But I will glance at a more sober and worldly view of the case. It is said the government made an offer to purchase the property of the family. How could they make such an offer ! How nijble it was in the family to decline it, since it would have brought them moneyed ad- vantage, and they are in confined circumstances ! Again : How can the people suffer the place to pass to ruin, and the remnants of the family to exist without the means of sustaining it 1 Surely, if the people of America really knew the state of the case, they would rather sell New- York than suffer such things to happen. LETTER IV. Mv DEAR Friend, We remained nine days at the capital ; and might have remained longer to advantage, but the meetings at New- York were coming on, and it was needful to hasten th'.ther. I looked to these meetings with something more of confidence and pleasure now, as my strength was considerably recruited ; although I was still suffer- ing from cold and partial loss of voice. This cold was brought on by oi.e of those sudden changes of tempera- ture to which this climate is subject. On the previous day to our arrival at Washington, the glass was at 80°, and the day before we quitted it, it was at 48° ; and we Were shivering with cold, and thankful for good fires. Later than this, even in the middle of May, it was colder stiU ; we had severe frosts, which cut off all the fruit ; and snow fell in abundance in the State of New-York. On returning to the place which we considered our home, we were received into the family of Mr. Boorman, of Washington Square ; an arrangement kindly suggested by Dr. Cox, and none could have aflbrded us more real tomfort. We fc Sabbath, fection oi issue onl was fixec a new ch cration o: we shoui collectior appoint tl The churi result of ; 20,000 d( It was ve As the tided mai communit method ai their cong to entertai may com] some elde is inserte visiting ded ; and of referen prepared cants are rangemen that accoi the reques not learn because h that, what appointme ministers were nece house. To faci ANNIVERSARIES. 37 We found ourselves fully engaged for the following Sabbath, the 4th of May ; but in consequence of the af- fection of voice from which I still suffered, I could in the issue only answer for a portion of my engagements. I was fixed to preach in the evening at the consecration of a new church in Brooklyn. What is called the conse^ cration of a church among the Presbyterians is only what we should call an opening ; and as, at this opening, a collection was to be made, I was very unwilling to dis- appoint them. The occasion was an interesting one. The church was handsome, and well built. It was the result of a revived state of religion in the place. It cost 20,000 dollars, and would accommodate 1,200 persons. It was very full. As the week of anniversaries opened, there were de- cided marks of activity and engagement in the religious community. Previously, too, a wise regard is had to method and accommodation. The pastors give notice to their congregations, that those persons who are desirous fo entertain one or more ministers during the meeting,^ may communicate their intentions either to himself or some elder appointed for that service. A counter-notice is inserted in the newspapers, to inform the ministers visiting at the time, that accommodation will be provi- ded ; and directing them where to apply. At the place of reference an entry is made of all the friends who are prepared to accommodate ; and the names of the appli- c.ints are filled in as they apply. The whole of this ar- rangement is effected on Christian principle, and it is on that account effectual. Of course, a respect is had to the requests of friendship, where they exist ; but I could not learn that a minister ever failed of accommodation because he was either poor or unknown ; nor could I find that, whatever might be the numbers, any suffered dis- appointment. There must have been from 300 to 400 ministers at this time in New- York ; but I believe none wore necessitated to sojourn at the hotel or the lodging- house. To facilitate also the attendance of strangers and the Af 38 ANNIVERSARIES. community generally, a small map is prepared of that portion of the city which is to be the theatre of pious in- terest and activity ; and cards are printed containing a table of the meetings. I insert a copy of one ; which, although it does not embrace the meetings of Baptists, Methodists, or Episcopalians, will show that the week is by no means an idle one. I f "FIRST OF MAY. " Anniversary Week. — The following is a complete list of the meetings for the Anniversary Week, so far as we have been able to asceitain : — " Monday, May 5. " American Seamen's Friend Society, at Chatham-street Chapel, half past 7 o'clock p. m. "American Anti-Slavery Society ; meeting of Delegates at Society's rooms, 130 Nassau-street, 4 p. m. " Tuesday, May 6. " American Anti-Slavery Society, at Chatham-street Chap- el, 10 o'clock A. M. " Revival Tract Society, at Third Free Church, corner of Houston and Thompson-streets, 4 p. h., and in the evening. " Convention of Delegates, American Tract Society, 4 p. m., at Society's house. "American Peace Society, at Chatham-street Chapel, 4 p. m. "New-York Sunday School Union, at Chatham-street Chapel, half past 7 p. m. " Children of the Sabbath Schools appear in the Park at half past 3 p. m. " Wednesday, May 7. " American Tract Society, at Chatham-street Chapel, 10 a. m. " Delegates to American Bible Society, at Society's house, 4 p. M. " New-York Colonization Society, at Chatham-street Chap- el, 4 p. M. "American Home Missionary Society, at Chatham-street Chapel, half past 7 p. m. "Delegates to American Bible Socty, at the Bible House, 4 p. M. " American Baptist Home Missionary Society, at Mul- berry-street Church, 7 p. m. ANNIVERSARIES. 39 " Thursday, May 8. "American Bible Society, at Chatham-street Chapel, 10 A. H. "Directora of American Hohe Missionary Society, at their rooms in the Tract House, 4 p. m. " Seventh Commandment Society, at Chatham-street Chapel, 4 p. M. " Presbyterian Education Society, at Chatham-street Chap- el, half past 7 p. m. "American and Presbyterian Education Society united. " Friday, May 9. "Meeting for the Foreign Mission Board, at Chatham-street Chapel, 10 a. m. "New-York City Temperance Society, at Chatham- street Chapel, half past 7 p. m. " New-York Infant School Society, in Canal-street Church, 10 A. M. " Morning prayer-meetings will be held at half past 5 o'clock on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, in Chatham- .street Chapel, and in Mr. Patten's church, Brooinc-street, near Broadway." Had I leisure, it would not be desirable that I should attempt to describe all these meetings : for they are very similar to each other, and indeed very like our own : but I wilt endeavour to place one before you as a sample of the whole, as I believe this has not yet been done by any friendly hand. Do not, however, expect that it should equal in magnitude what we have seen in Surrey Chapel or Exeter Hall ; for this would not be just. The States have at present no metropolis ; the interest of their meet- ings, therefore, is divided among several places, rather than concentrated in one, as it is in London. However, if I succeed in placing it properly under your eye, you will not think it inconsiderable. If it does not equal our central, it surpasses most of our provincial meetings. The Societies creating the most interest are tWe Tract, the Home Missioa, the Education, the Bible, and the Foreign Missionary. The last of these was the last in order ; but, as it surpassed, perhaps, all in impression, it i« to this I will refer. The ordinary place of meeting is Chatham-street 40 ANNIVERSARIES. •t. m , , ; • ■ i; ■ - . ,1 ! i ■ 1 1'' 1 r il III Chapel. The place was a theatre ; it has been purchased and converted into a free church ; and it is, on the whole, deemed the best adapted to the purposes of public meetings. It has, like Zion Chapel, strong indica- tions of what were its original uses. The platform of the stage remains. In the centre of the front line of the stage is a roomy pulpit. From the foot of the pulpit springs a gallery of seats, which rises backwards to the external walls, and fills the whole space over the stage. This is reserved for the ministers ; and when it is filled by them, it presents to the eye, as you pass up the aisles, a striking and impressive object. On reaching the plat- form, and turning round, you have a face of things pre- sented to you somewhat resembling what it would be in a similar position in Spafields Chapel. There is a con- siderable area, and over it two tiers of galleries. The place, I should think, will contain 2,000 persons ; and filled, as it was on this occasion, there could not be less than 2,500. At this meeting of the Foreign Mission Society, the Hon. John C. Smith presided. Dr. Proudfit was called on to open the proceedings by prayer. Dr. Wisner then, as Secretary to the Society, was looked to for a report of its state and prospects. This was not the occasion on which that Society makes it full annual report ; it was an auxiliary exercise, and the statement made was a mere abstract. That abstract, however, was wisely given ; it was brief, clear, discriminating, and made to turn on vital and great principles of hope and of action ; and it was delivered, not by dry and hasty reading, but with freedom and cogent earnestness. Mr. Winslow, an excellent missionary, who had re- turned from Ceylon, followed. He gave an interesting account of the condition of missionary work in India, with much pious feeling, and urged for support in cor- respondence with the opening prospects. A very good impression was made by his f peech; shown not in audi- ble admiration of the man, but in silent appreciation of Ihe subject. ANNIVERSARIES. 41 Dr. Beman supported his resolution in a speech of dif- ferent character, but not of contrary effect. It was ar- gumentative, but popular, serious, and v ^ent, embracing large views of a great subject, and makmg strong claims on the conscience. The temper of the meeting was fully sustained by his address. I was expected to follow him with another resolution. I began by referring to my responsibility, for at that moment I deeply felt it. What was said was received with the greatest indulgence and attention ; and I was thankful if it did not disturb or allay the state of feehng which happily existed. After a slight pause, the Rev. Mr. Blagden, of Boston, rose, and referring to the felt state of the meeting, pro- posed that contributions should be immediately made, and that we should resolve ourselves into a prayer-meet- ing, to seek the especial blessing of God on our object and ourselves. The president and one or two senior members about the chair thought that they had better first pass through the usual and remaining business. Thi^ •was conceded. Messrs. Alder, Matheson, Bethune, and Dr. Spring, followed. They spoke under some discul- vantage. The general feeling required not to be excited by continued appeal ; but rather to be relieved by devout supplication. The business was disposed of. Notice was given that contributions should be sent to the col- lectors of the several congregations ; and I was request- ed to close the meeting in prayer. I sought to be ex- cused, but in vain. It was a most solemn and delight- ful occasion. The profound silence showed that all were engaged in one act ; and sweet and refreshing tears were shed ir. abundance. That time is worth a thousand ordinary ones ; it stands out in the places of memory as Bethel did in the recollections of the patriarch, never to be forgotten ! Happy as the service was, it was generally regretted that the suggestion made by Mr. Blagden was not acted upon. Some 5,000 dollars would certainly have been added to the funds of the Society ; and such an occasion, 4* 42 ANNIVERSARIES. I I 1 |: BO seldom occurring, improved by special prayer, might have led to extraordinary results. To plead order under such circumstances, and to prevent the exercise of reli- gious feeling, is reducing order to formality, and turning the good irto an evil. However, the feeling was so strong after the disappointment it had suffered, and after the expression which had been given to it, that before the meeting separated, it was resolved to open two places for special prayer on the following Sabbath even- ing. These meetings were thronged, and most serious and interesting. The meetings were mostly held in the morning and evening ; commencing at ten and half past seven, and finishing at an uncertain time. The evening meetings closed about ten o'clock, and the morning about two ; the one I have described finished at half past two. The meetings, as a whole, were pronounced to be more in- teresting than they had ever been, and this was said in connexion with the assurance that they had been much longer. The morning meeting had previously seldom exceeded two hours or two hours and a half. The so- cieties which were not so fully supported, and which met in the evening, threw some singers into the gallery be- hind the rostrum, and relieved the meeting by one or two musical compositions. This was not, to my taste, an improvement. Had the whole assembly been challen- ged to sing, as an expression of the feeling which pos- sessed it, it would have been natural and beautiful ; as it was, it appeared too theatrical. It was a common thing to prepare printed slips, with the resolutions and names of the mover and seconder, as a bill of fare. Generally, the meetings were, in my judgment, de- lightful. There was more spirit and efficiency in them than I had been taught to expect ; or than one might reasonably expect, in the remembrance that the platform meeting is of later date with them than with us. They are in no way inferior to our meetings at Bristol, Liver- pool, or Manchester ; and in some respects they are per- haps superior. They have fewer men that speak ; but then th 8peech( and mo claptraf men wh determi they loc man wh pun, an haps, as do not 1 action, t indeed, signs, ti meetings ly put d has a w( find, in ( that he i on his li| with wh( silence heaven. Two dismisse one of t and the early pra town. At ler it was, ii any simi worthy which a in the |>oor 8to( ANNIVERSARIES. then they have fewdi- formal, inappropriate, and turgid speeches. There may be with us more play of talent, and more beauty of period ; but with them there is less claptrap, less trifling, and no frivolity. They meet as men who have a serious business in hand, and who are determined to do it in a manly and serious manner ; and they look with wonder and pity on the impertinence of a man who, at such a time, will seek to amuse them with pun, and humour, and prettiness. The speakers, per- haps, ask more time to prepare than in England, but they do not lean more on their notes ; and if they have less action, they do not create less interest. That interest is, indeed, not expressed as with us, by strong and audible signs, till one's head aches. I witnessed, in all the meetings, but one burst of this kind, and that was severe- ly put down by a rigid chairman. But if the speaker has a worthy theme, and if he is worthy of it, he shall find, in commending it to the judgment and the heart, that he is addressing himself to a people who can wait on his lips with ir*.elligent smiles, and silent tears, and with what, after ali, perhaps, is the highest compliment, i silence itself — deep and sublime — ^like the silence of I heaven. Two things should be remarked before this subject is dismissed from your attention. The first is, that, at no one of these meetings, was a public collection made ; and the other is, that, in connexion with all of them, early prayer-meetings were held at different parts of the town. At length this busy week came to its close. A week it was, in which I had made more acquaintance than in any similar period of time ; in which the dwelling of our worthy host was made too much like a house of call ; in which a field of service was opening before us, not only in the States, but over the Canadas ; and in which my poor stock of strength was perfectly exhausted. 44 MORRISTOWN. LETTER V. My dear Friend, I HAVE now to introduce you to new and different scenes. Hitherto we had seen nothing of the rural pop- ulation ; nor had we found an opportunity of marking the effects of a very recent revival. Morristown, which is some thirty miles from New-York, and in the State of New-Jersey, supplied the double occasion ; and our kind friend Mr. Phelps, partly to meet this desire, and partly from a benevolent concern to relieve me from the pres- sure of too many engagements, proposed to take us thither. We readily accepted his offer, and left on Sat- urday for that place. We went by a steamer to Elizabethtown, and from thence by a coach, which was waiting the arrival of the boat. The road was bad, and the run heavy ; but the country was varied and pretty, and all the objects were new. Apple-orchards prevail greatly about here. That fruit has been cultivated extensively and profitably for distillation ; but the Temperance Society has destroyed the trade. I saw, on the roadside, a good-sized house just finished, and placed on stilts, with this notice on it : " TO BE SOLD AND REMOTED AT THE DIRECTION OF THE PURCHASER.^' Morristown is beautifully located. It is placed on ridges of land, vvhich drop away into the valleys. The scattered cottages run round a green of irregular form, and having the Presbyterian Church as a centre-piece ; and from the green they run off again into the different avenues which lead to it, and are half concealed among the trees. The cottages are what is called frame build- ings ; they have a frame or skeleton of wood ; and this is clothed externally with feather-edged boarding. The roof is c slate, m: is of wo brick, green Vt look prel was rais springing the from material, tion of th Not b( edge of £ inns on t arranges and we v went to Church ; tion of R Church, a The m gagement of health, and of q one's juc ministers Mr. Malli somewhai In the Church, little grou light waj which ha( were all did not er I should exercises read his the duty SABBATH AT MORRISTOWN. 45 roof is covered with shingle ; which is a sort of wooden slate, made either of pine or cedar. Every thing indeed is of wood except the chimneys, which are carried up in brick. When they are kept nicely painted, and have green Venetian shutters, ah is mostly the case here, they look pretty, and will endure a long time. The church was raised of the same materials ; with a tower and spire springing from the ground, and forming a projection on the front elevation of the edifice. This is the usual material, and the usual form given to it, in the construc- tion of the rural church. Not being expected here, nor having even the knowl- edge of any person, we made our way to one of the two inns on the G reen ; but before we could make our little arrangements, the rumour of our arrival had got abroad, and we were not allowed to stay there. Mr. Matheson went to Mr. Hover's, the minister of the Presbyterian Church ; and Mr. Phelps and myself accepted the invita- tion of Mr. Cook, a zealous member of the Methodist Church, and who had first shown us kindness. The next day was the Sabbath. I declined all en- gagement for the day, not only as necessary to my state of health, but as I sought those opportunities of hearing and of quiet observation which were requisite to assist one's judgment. I had the less dt'licacy in this, as the ministers were all prepared ti. meet their flocks, and as Mr. Matheson had engaged *o assist Mr. Hover in duties somewhat arduous. In the morning I worshipped at the Presbyterian Church. The avenues and green were animated by the little groups hastening to the House of God ; some sixty light wagons stood about the green and church fence, which had already delivered their charge. The people were all before the time. I should think twenty persons did not enter after me, and I was in time. There were, I should think, above a thousand persons present. The exercises were well and piously conducted. Mr. Hover read his sermon, but he read it with tears. It was on the duty of parents to their children, and it made a good %* 46 RELIGION AT MORRISTOWN. impression. It was adapted to this end ; for it was ex- cellent in composition and in feeling. The people did not show much interest in the singing, nor all the interest in prayer which I expected ; but on the whole it was, perhaps, the best time of both pastor and people ; for they were still surrounded by the effects and influence of a revival which had lasted most of the winter. The particulars of this revival I will here put down ; postpo- ning any observations on the subject generally till I can give it the full consideration which its importance de- mands. From all I could learn, religion must have been low in this congregation previous to the revival; that is, lower than it usually is in our churches. There are many causes that might contribute to this ; and chiefly, I think, it might arise from many persons who, as they grow up, have no wish to be thought irreligious, and yet have no conscientious regard for religion ; and who, feeling towards the predominant church as a sort of parish church, attach themselves to it, and thus from time to time infuse into it a worldly character. Several pious persons, principally the minister and elders, I believe, felt for the condition of the people, and the want of suc- cess in the ordinary means of grace ; and they met to- gether for prayer and consultation. The pastor engaged to bring the subject, as it impressed themselves, before the attention of the church ; and special meetings for prayer and a special visitation were determined on. The township was laid out in districts, and thirty-four visiters were appointed. They were to go two and two ; and to visit every family and individual more or less in attendance at church. Their business was, by conver- sation and prayer, and earnest appeal to the conscience, to press the claims of domestic and personal rehgion on all ; and this was to be done without mixing it up with ordinary topics of converse, or partaking of social refresh- ments, that nothing might interfere with the impression. The visitation was to be made within one week; this limitation was of great use ; and as this people have \ much leii it could I The r revived, serious ii interestin communi( occupatio meeting i this mea hands the conductec it advanc the fruit o to receivt pious at t their sac] occur onl stance giv advantage In the Church, not two h worthy cl a sermon void of th provoke n not likely the peopU less tiling responsibi prive it ol On lea quented j it present memory, in lookin the spire through t REVIVAL AT MORRISTOWN. 47 much leisure at the period of the year which was chosen, it could be attended with no difficulty. The results were highly encouraging. Many were revived, and many were brought under conviction and serious inquiry. The deputies reported whatever was interesting to the pastor, and encouraged tiie people to- communicate with him ; and his hands were soon full of occupation. He determined on holding a protracted meeting in the month of February for some days, and by this means he brought to his youth and his overladen hands the help of some brethren in the ministry. It was conducted, I uelieve, with prudence and efficiency ; and it advanced the good work which had been begun. As the fruit of these exercises, the happy pastor was looking to receive nearly fifty persons to the communion of the pious at the next sacrament. It should be observed that their sacraments, and consequently their admissions^ occur only once in three months ; and that this circum- stance gives to their amount of admissions an apparent advantage over ours. In the afternoon of the day I attended the Episcopal Church. It is small and thinly attended. There were not two hundred persons. The minister is, I believe, of worthy character, and seriously disposed ; but he reads a sermon in essay style ; fairly put together indeed, yet void of thought, of distinctness, and of point. It would provoke neither objection nor inquiry ; and was therefore not likely to do good. The service closed as it began : the people were evidently not interested. what a life- less thing professed religion may become, and what a responsibility rests with the minister, lest he should de- prive it of life as it passes through his hands ! On leaving the place, I took a circuitous and unfre- quented path home, and was delighted witii the scenes it presented to me. One spot especially dwells in my memory. You stood on a slope above the village ; and in looking upop it, you saw only the turret of the hall, the spire of the church, and the angles of a few cottages through the foliage of the poplar, the oak, and the piue, ^«, 48 EVENING WORSHIP. which concealed all the rest. Here and there little par- ties appeared and disappeared, as they quietly moved on from the school or the church to their quiet home. Be- hind you were two verdant lanes, which promised to transport you from the world ; while at your side the land broke suddenly away some hundred feet, and pre- sented you with a small lake finely fringed with wood ; and again it fell away, and ran into the distance, giving to the eye vale after vale, and hill after hill, beautifully formed, beautifully clothed, and in beautiful perspective. The sun was shining brilliantly on this distant scenery ; and a fine dark cloud had risen like a curtain over the other portion of it, so as to throw as much of quiet ani- mation into the whole picture as possible. It was a sweet study. In the evening I went with Mr. Cook and my friend to the Episcopal Methodist Church. It is not large, and has been recently built. The men occupied one side of the place, and the women the other; an unsocial plan, and more hkely to suggest evil than to prevent it. We were there before the service commenced. The silence was interrupted disagreeably, by continued spitting, which fell, to a strange ear, like the drippings from the eaves on a lainy day. They have the custom of turning their back to the minister in singing, that they may face the singers ; and they have also the practice, to a great extent, of interlining the prayer with exclamations and prayers of their own. Such as these, for instance, were common : — Amen — Do so. Lord — Lord, thou knowest — Let it be so, Lord — Yes, yes. Lord — Come, come. Lord, &c. — You will recognise in this only what you have witnessed at home. Their minister came out from Ireland. He is an in- telligent, humble, pious man ; and preached a sound and useful sermon. But he has no management of his voice ; it was at one elevation, and that the highest, throughout. By this means he lost the power to impress ; and threatens, I fear, to wear himself out with vociferation. The miristers in this connexion, I found, are allowed to !; i JOURNEY TO PHILADELPHIA. 49 ii settle. He is just settled ; he has a wife and three children, and has 500 dollars a year. It Wiis nearly ten o'clock when we left. The night was dark. The clouds had settled heavily all round the horizon, and the lightning was flashing most vividly through the whole circle. We seemed like Saturn sur- rounded by rings of fire. I had not before seen Amer- ican lightning. On the whole, the state of this township is very good. There are in it 3,500 persons. There are 2,500 in at- tendance on worship, and about 1,000 in communion; and there are not less than 700 children in the schools. The change, toe, must have been great. One fact will satisfy you of this ; there were in this township, before the Temperance efforts, fourteen stores for the sale of spirituous liquors — apple-gin, rum, and whiskey ; now there is only one. It would • vve been pleasant to us all could we have stayed a day ' o here; but as we had to be present at the sitting! > 'ae General Assembly, we were obliged to leave on the Monday evening. We parted with our friends with the hope of meeting again ; and hastened back to New-York. So soon as we arrived we found that, in con&equence of the special prayer-meetings hav- ing been so well attended, and of some disappointment having arisen from our absence, a supplemental prayer- meeting had been fixed for that evening, and we were announced as expected. We made haste therefore to go ; and united with Dr. Spring, Mr. Norton, and other ministers, in conducting the meeting. The following day was fully occupied ; the morning in meeting those claims which arose on leaving our American home for a considerable time ; and the even- ing in the society of many friends which our kind host and hostess had invited to meet us. The following morning, at five, we started for Philadelphia, with the happiness of still being attended by Mr. Phelps, who was delegated to the Assembly, and two of his daughters^ who were availing themselves of this opportunity to Vol. I.— C 6 50 GENERAL ASSEMBLY. fi visit the city. We were not strangers to the place, as it had lain in our way to and from Washington ; nor had we to seek a dwelling, for Dr. Ely, who had before re- ceived us, still insisted that we should accept of the hospi* lity of his hospitable family. LLTTER VI. My dear Friend, * We had no sooner time to look about us in Philadel- phia, than we found ourselves in a fu^^ tide of occupation, not inferior to what we had known at New-York. The Assembly would require a close attention, and have heavy sittings, and crowded attendance, as questions of great, and, in the judgment of many, of fearful interest, would come on. In addition to this, the public institu- tions availed themselves of the favourable occasion to hold anniversary meetings, which were odged into all the niches of time which it was hoped the Assembly would leave disengaged ; and it was a matter of earnest request that we should attend them. Our home, too, gave the same signs of busy engagement. Dr. Ely on these occasions keeps open house. There were thirteen or fourteen of us dwelling there, and always more than this number at the dinner table. As these visiters were our brethren, and came from all parts of the States, it supplied a means of profitable and pleasant intercourse, which suffered no deduction, except what arose from the difficulty of finding time to enjoy it. Let me, however, put the more important engagements before you in the order of their occurrence. On the evening of our arrival, we found that the Epis- copal Church Missionary Society was holding a meeting. I went to it. It was respectably attended. The ven- ■3 erable Bi men spo one very ness and well knoT recollecti York me should b( mously t( their pro tempt on and it \v\ The ne They me formerly ( It is capa and soun service of year is a thronged, and saint Dr. W. ] Jerusalen text. TV — was d( best thing a happy < After 1 or retired which w: area near the me ml the stand port of th as comini there we had been tach to V cial capa GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 61 erable Bishop Wiiite was in the chair. Several clergy- men spoke from written speeches. They were good, one very good ; and the only defect was in the awkward- ness and formality of the delivery. Dr. Milnor, a name well known among us, and now very pleasant to my recollections, had come on with the effects of the New- York meetings upon h'.n, and he urged that something should be done for China. A vote was carried unani- mously to send out a missionary ; and it gave new life to their proceedings. This altogether was an infant at- tempt on the part of the evangelical Episcopal clergy, and it wis well and piously sustained. The next morning we attended the General Assembly. They met in the church which was built for Mr. Hay, formerly of Bristol ; it is the seventh Presbyterian Church. It is capacious and handsome, and well adapted for sight and sound. The sittings are opened by a devotional service of the usual order ; and the moderator of the last year is always appointed to preach. The place was thronged, and with such an assemblage of pastors, elders, and saints, as is seldom v/itnessed. The preacher was Dr. W. M'Dcwell: his text, "Pray for the peace of Jerusalem ;" and the sermon breathed the spirit of the text. The whole service — sermon, prayers, psalmody — was devout and refreshing. It was like some of the best things we hav-> at home, and was calculated to have a happy effect in the pending discussions. After the public worship, the congregation dispersed or retired to the galleries, or to that portion of the area which was assigned to spectators ; the one half of the area nearest to the pulpit being retained for the u "^ of the members of assembly. The Assembly is formed by the standing committee of commissioners, making a re- port of the persons present who are duly appointed to sit as com;nissioners in this convention. It appeared that there were nearly 200 present ; the numbers returnecl had been reduced to avoid the inconveniences which at- tach to very large bodies sitting in legislative and judi- cial capacities. The congregational bodies send del». C3 52 GENERAL ASSEMBLY. li gates to this Assembly, but they are not allowed to vote. By the time that the body had got into form and shape, it was needful to grant a recess. At four o'clock they met a^ain. The first business was, after prayer, to choose a moderator and temporary clerk; ' o, with the two permanent clerks, composed the offif staff of the court. Committees were then ap- pointed, whose duties were either to dispose of trivial business, or to prepare more serious business for the con- sideration of the Assembly. These arrangements were followed by reports from the permanent and stated clerks, Dr. M'Dowell and Dr. Ely, on the correspond- ence and the outline of business waiting the attention of the commissioners. These were all preliminaries, and when they were arranged it was time to adjourn, or at least i" was deemed so by tlie meeting. Dr. Philip Lindsley, President of Nashville College, was chosen as moderator ; a gentleman whose acquaint- ance I had the pleasure of making at Washington. So far as intelligence, impartiality, and urbane and Christian carriage were qualifications, the choice was a happy one ; but a person who presides over a large meeting, where one half of the persons are unused to the forms of pro- ceeding, and where strong discussion and party feeling are expected to break out, requires, above all things, much promptitude and tact in the ways of business gen- erally, and a good acquaintance with the practices of the body over which he is placed in particular. This Dr. Lindsley candidly acknowledged he did not possess ; and, from the want of it, both himself and the court were often embarrassed, sometimes in a humorous, and some- times in a vexatious manner. On the following day, much time was consumed in minor afiurs ; but at length came the subject of the com- plaint and appeal of the Second Presbytery of Philadel- phia against the Synod of Philadelphia. An effort was made by an amendment to postpone it, on which there was much confusion. But all were waiting for the dis- cussion, and the proposition was oyelruled ; and the com- plaint and long hear of our sta] the Assem tions; and porary int before you Some adopted op the head adopted th the denom both new Presbyterij at large e they were dispute, in party, who and who fe their conn Presbytery Elective A: of the Sy beyond w especially from the c such prin( before the heated am the existei the Synod and assigi the Presb- plaint, now thro\ exacerbati cates, evei space, am Then can GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 53 plaint and appeal were allowed to take their hearing. A long hearing it was, for it lasted beyond the remainder of our stay, and very little else occupied the attention of the Assembly. This indeed was the question of ques- tions; and as it was by no means one of local or tem- porary interest, I must endeavour to place it briefly before you. Some of the pastors and churches in this city had adopted opinions and courses which fall generally under the head of new measures; while those who have not adopted them have fallen, by a contrast of term,7, under the denomination of old measures. As these measures, both new and old, affect other churches besides the Presbyterian, they must be noticed distinctly and more at large elsewhere. It is sufficient to state here, that they were the occasion of much, and sometimes of bitter dispute, in the existing Presbyteries. The new-measure party, who were a minority in the existing Pre ^vteries, and who felt themselves annoyed, proposed to v» .idraw their connexion, and form themselves into a separate Presbytery, as a measure of peace, under the style of an Elective Affinity Presbytery. The existing Presbyteries of the Synod felt that this was to place themselves beyond what they deemed a salutary influence ; and especially they were alarmed at a proposed departure from the constitution of the church, which recognised no such principle of separation. The whole matter went before the General Assembly ; and, after seven days* heated and painful discussion, the Assembly confirmed the existence of the Second Presbytery, and instructed the Synod to receive it. The Synod refused to comply, and assigned its reasons in a string of resolutions, and the Presbytery came up again with its appeal and com- plaint. Thus the affair stood at this time ; and it was now thrown open, and with it the old wounds, to fresh exacerbation. Each party was heard by its own advo- cates, even to weariness, for the argument lay in a small space, and a great length of time was bestowed on it. Then cajne the rights of the judicatory. The roll was t 64 GENERAL ASSEMBLY. called, and every member in giving his vote had the right to give his reasons too ; and very many availed themselves of it. At last the votes were taken, and it was found that about two thirds of the court were against disturbing the previous determination. On the character of the discussion as it advanced, there is not much room for remark. There was not a great deal of good speaking. One speech was argu- mentative and very clever, but it wanted perspicuiiy and condensation to give it power. Another speaker was re- markable and amusing, from the manner in which scraps of common Latin fell from his hps at every third sen- tence, and with all sorts of accent. And another awakened extraordinary excitement by his power in biting sarcasm, a power used so waywardly as to alarm both friends and foes. While many in the course of the debate expressed themselves with brevity, in nothing remarkable, except for that good sense and gracious feeling which savoureth all things. I have given you this account somewhat in detail, be- cause this body is next in importance to the Congress itself. The persons composing it are the elect of their particular societies, and they come from all parts of the States; some of them the distance of 1,000 and 1,200 miles. Many of them were ashamed that we should witness discussions which involved much personal allu- sion, and which, while man is man, will throw up his in- firmities to the surface. For my own part, I was glad of an occasion of observing the conduct of such a body under very trying circumstances; and the result was that of unfeigned admiration. Apart from the conduct of the leading speakers, who, residing in the city, and pledged to certain views, might be regarded as ex parte advo- cates, the Assembly generally did not forget their char- acter as judges, but carried themselves with much gravity, impartiality, and forbearance. They overlooked the effects of passion in others, and subdued them in themselves ; they evidently acted under the fear of God, and with a desire of promoting the things that "make for I i oenehal assembly. 55 i peace." I could not help thinking, at various times of provocation, what a different conduct would have been shown had it not been for the restraints of religion ; and how much of religious influence must have been silently felt to produce the amount of restraint, I have seen many rehgious bodies, when less tried, and when more habituated to this sort of trial, and when dwelling in a more refined atmosphere, not behave so well. In saying as much as this, however, in favour of the court, you must understand, what I have already inti- mated, that this question was regarded by neither party, nor by the Assembly, as of local interest. It was not a question whether a new Presbytery, constituted on new principles, in Philadelphia, should exist or be annihilated ; but it was a question which was considered as a test of the strength or weakness of the new-measure men through- out the whole church. That the New Presbytery should be willing to make it so is not surprising ; but that the Synod should have been so disposed is amazing, as it was placing a subject which they deemed to be of the first magnitude in a most unequal and perilous position. In fact, it was no trial of strength on the new and old measures. The Assembly had, at a former sitting, heard and passed judgment on a case brought regularly before them by appellant and defendant. The Synod had refused to act on that judgment ; and the real quej- tion now was, whether the Assembly should retain its place in the constitution as a supreme and final court of appeal. All who know how backward men are to review and reverse a decision they have formallv made, will see that there were few chances, even if wrong, of getting it set right, and if right, just no chance at all. And the Synod, by still identifying the case with the greater question, have created an impression in favour of the new measures, which they must deem as fatal as it is general. Up to this moment, it is generally considered that the majority obtained against the Synod is a victory on the side of new measures ; whereas, you will now see, that it is a resolution of the Assembly to assert its own GENERAL ASSEMBLY. supremacy. And certainly, were a calm decision sought on the subject of measures only, the division of this court would be very different. Before leaving the Assembly, I must yet make one or two references. In the course of the proceedmgs some interesting reports were brought up, relative to their col- lege, the mission cause, and the state of religion. The report on the state of religion was brought up on the Monday morning after our arrival. We were looked to, in our turn, as delegates from the Congregational Union, for some account of the numbers and condition of our churches. Mr. Matheson made a brief and general statement, and presented the congratulations of our con- stituents. I was urged to support him, but from the re- newed loss of voice, I was obliged to excuse myself. The reports generally were not made so prominent and interesting as I expected, or as, perhaps, they commonly are ; there was at this time an exciting and absorbing subject before the meeting unsettled, and, of course, there was an eagerness to pass to it. It is the custom of the Assembly to set apart a morn- ing during their sessions for special devotion — reading the Scriptures, exhortation, and prayer. Considering the design, and its special character, I went to the place of jmeeting with high expectation of thronged attendance and happy worship. But no ; it was too much there as it is here ; the persons who will crowd to a religious de- bate are not the persons who rejoice in a pure act of worship. At the time of commencement there vere not more than two hundred persons present. However, the attendance soon increased to eight hundred or a thousand, and these, without doubt, of the more serious and pious character. I was associated with five of my Presby- terian brethren in leading the services. There was over the meeting a very subdued and tender spirit. All un-r used to tears, I never saw so many men weeping before, We enjoyed much ; and it was an evidence of what might liave been enjoyed in more auspicious circumstances. At the close of the service, Dr. Green, the fjcither of the Asser ceeding to in order tc pressed gi they shoul to be in hs Of the < be said, and said, I vantage, of those h connected ance, and were all m School Ur be admiral There notice. I sionary to of our an persons, made corr bytery wa Secretary Dr. Ely to, not as He then o hands ; at which is affectional Winslow and the s( This w peculiarly time, whic China up attentii and I wer terest thei a CHINA. 67 the Assembly, rose and proposed tliat, instead of pro- ceeding to business, as was usual, they should adjourn^ in order to cherish the impressions made. But business pressed greatly ; and it was overruled by a proposal that they should receive the Mission Report, which was thought to be in harmony with the existing state of feehng. Of the other engagements whde in this city little need be said. My object is not to report all that was done and said, but so much as may afford information and ad- vantage. The public meetings were mostly duplicates of those held at New- York. The chief of them were connected with the Presbyterian Education, the Temper- ance, and the Sunday School Union Societies. These were all well attended and well sustained. The Sunday School Union has its establishment here, and appears to be admirably conducted. There is one service, however, which may claim notice. It was the ordination of Mr. Parker as a mis- sionary to China. It look place on the second evening of our arrival, in the presence of a large assembly of persons. It was by the Second Presbytery, and we were made corresponding members for the time. The Pres- bytery was constituted by prayer. Afterward Dr. Wisner, Secretary of the Society, gave an introductory sermon. Dr. Ely asked the usual qiiestions ; which were replied to, not as with us, but by the mere expression of assent. He then offered the ordaining prayer, with imposition of hands ; and led in giving the right hand of fellowship, which is not given in silence, but with explanatory and affectionate remark. Mr. Barnes gave the charge. Mr. Winslow and »»»yself then followed with short addresses, and the service closed with singing and prayer. This was in itself a delightful service ; to me it was peculiarly so. It was the second service, in order of time, which I attended here, and both services related to China. I had for the last three years attempted to call up attention to the claims of China at home, but in vain» and I went out to America not prepared to find much in- terest there ; and when I really found that Christians of C3 ! 58 PHILADELPHIA. I h ' that country were lookinjj on China as a field of present labour, and were sending forth not a single missionary, but many, for its redemption, it seemed as though one had crossed the Atlantic to receive an answer to one's prayers. Still, on returning home, you are surprised with the question, Is China open ? My reply is, America has answered that question. China is as open now, and has been for the last twenty years, as it ever will be till we strive to enter. It is not open to indolent inquiry ; it is ©pen to faith, prayer, and fixed perseverance. Our neg- ligence to this subject for a long period is the more re- markable, since we have had the greatest facihties for the work ; and to justify what we had done, it was indis- pensable that we should do more. Thirty years ago China secured our attention. Morrison and Milne were devoii a to it; and with the most exhilarating success. Malacca, Singapore, and Penang, were taken up as out- posts, to bear on this great empire, and have been sus- tained, at an immense expense, for some twenty years, only for its buke, and yet no movement of the least im- portance from that time to this has been made on a country which, with its dependants and accessories, con- tains one half of the world's population. Surely the churches will awake to a sense of their duty ; and while expending their resources on fields of acknowledged im- portance, will still maintain, that the first in importance has, in wisdom and in mercy, the first claim to our ser- Tices of benevolence. You will perhaps be scarcely satisfied if I leave Phil- adelphia without speaking of it as a place. What has been often said, I need not repeat : it will be enough if I give you my impressions. It is indeed a Quaker city, neat, clean, uniform, without any striking features. There is the drab bonnet, and the drab gown', and the frill, and neckerchief and apron to correspond ; all very good, and, in a certain acceptation, very handsome ; but there are no feathers, no flounces, no gaudy colours, and no finery, either genteel or shabby. The streets inter- nrtLADELPIlIA. 59 (^ sect each other at right angles ; and every street is so Uke its fellow as sometimes to tire on the eye and per- plex the course. It is the cleanest city I have seen in this new world ; it has the finest market ; and is admi- rably supplied with excellent water. I should think a family would find as many comforts and as few incon-< veniences as may be, in residing here. The females, too, struck me as more interesting in appearance ; but they might owe this to their dress. You seldom see the Quaker dress in this town ; but it has evidently qualified all you do see. It is a happy medium between what you would find in Quaker life and fashionable life ; it borrows taste from the one, and feminine nicety from the other. The society, I should think, is agreeable and excellent. As for sights, after what I have said, you will suppose that they may soon be disposed of. Yet there is some- thing under this head. We saw the exchange ; it is just finished, at a large expense ; and, like many of our ex- pensive things, ought to be good. It is built of marble, and has some fine Corinthian columns, with beautiful wrought capitals ; but, for the rest, it is sad indeed. Surely no architect could have given such an elevation. The porticoes to the two banks are admirable ; I remem- ber gazing on the larger one, in the moonlight, with great pleasure. The corner of the ground in which Franklin lies, and the room in which the Declaration of Independ- ence was first read, interested me. There is here an ex- cellent library and museum. The library has upwards of 30,000 volumes, and is more select than most. It has been greatly enriched by the bequest of arr English clergyman. The museum is chiefly remarkable for a fir'» skeleton of the mammoth. I saw also the spot where Penn signed his treaty with the Indians. A tree, springing from the roots of the parent tree under which they stood, shades the apot. The Penn Society have lately placed a small rioiiument there ; I will not say erected, for it is not more than half the size of one of our obelisks ; and it has a shabby en- closure. i 60 WATER-WORKS AND PENITENTIARY. On the several faces there is inscribed : PENNSYLVANIA, FOUNDED 1681, BY DEEDS OF PEACE. TREATY GROUND OP MTILLIAM PENM WITH THE INDIAN NATIONS, 1682. UNBROKEN FAITH. REPLACED BY THE PENN SOCIETY 1807. I went also to see the Water-works and the Peniten- tiary. The former is the boast of the town. As a work of art, affording great benefit to the people, it is good ; as a place of agreeable resort, it is very inviting ; but, as a discovery in science, which is the ground of boast to many, it is nothing. A thousand millstreams are made available on the same principle. The Penitentiary is really admirable. I can confirm what has generally been said of it. There are some nice and skilful arrangements for the order, supervision, cleansing, and ventilation of the prison. All was good — all, except the method of warming, which had perplexed them. They were about to try a new method, which would also fail. I promised to supply Mr. Woods with the plan adopted in the London Orphan Asylum. He is an excellent man, a Friend ; who presides over the establishment gratuitously, finding his reward in the fruits of his benevolence. I have referred to the Quakers. I am sorry to say / that a considerable portion of them have lapsed into fatal 1 heresy. The orthodox have separated from them, and they now bear the appellation of Hicksites. I could not, < assuredly, learn their opinions, but I fear it amounts al- most to Deism. On authority, which I believe I may • trust, it is said that they have lately resolved that the ' word Holy shall no longer be an ailix to the word Bible. On the morning of the 24th, we quitted this city for New- York on our way to Boston ; after having had the most favourable opportunity of becoming acquainted with the hal had mi worship sicknes ful impi we wou friends, we had The go ject, am rather tc package dishones trip who that she eye on thoughts kept ami overhear •J My The re on the Sa in that cil and at th quainted ^ Aboel, th< RETURN TO NEW-YORK. 61 Peniten-- s a work good ; as }ut, as a boast to re made confirm ire some •ervision, ^ good — erplexed which )ds with He is )ver the le fruits to say nto fatal em, and )uld not, unts al- I may that the d Bible. city for had the dwith the habits and character of the people, and after having had much enjoyment in truly Christian intercourse and worship. Of Dr. Ely's kindness, from first to last, in sickness and in health, we have, and shall have, a grate- ful impression. We parted with an understanding that we would meet again before we left these shores. Our friends, the Phelps', returned with us. Now, as always, we had kind admonitions to look well to our luggage. The good people have, everywhere, alarm on this sub- ject, and there must be a cause for it ; but I think it is rather to be found in the mistakes that happen by careless package and the frequent change of conveyance, than in dishonesty. I was referred to an old woman on this trip who had been so deeply inoculated with this fear, that she sat on one portion of her luggage, and kept her eye on the rest, which lay at her feet ; and, lest her thoughts should wander, or the amount be forgotten, she kept amusing herself, and, of course, the passengers who overheard her, with this cheerful ditty : — " Great box and little box, Band-box and bundle : One, two, three, four. Great box and little box, Band-box and bundle : One, two, three, four." LETTER VII. My DEAR Friend, The reason which pressed us to return to New- York on the Saturday was, that we had engagements to fulfil in that city. I preached on the Sabbath at Laight-street, and at the Middle Dutch Church. I had become ac- quainted with the ministers of this church through Mr. Aboel, their missionary, who had stayed as an invalid 6 !. i' i 62 5IEETING OF MERCHANTS. ■1 M ( T some weeks in my family : and the greater my acquaint- ance with them, the greater was my esteem. They in- vited us to their classes, and passed resolutions expres- sive of congratulations on our arrival, and sympathy in our object. On the Monday morning, we left home soon after five, to attend a merchants' prayer-meeting, which was held weekly at six o'clock, and passed in rotation from house to house. On this occasion it was held at Mr. Oli- phant's, and it was the more interesting^ as he and Mr. Parker, the recently ordained missionary, were about to leave for China. Though he went as a merchant, he wished rather to advance religion than to secure gain. Two friends engaged in prayer ; and then the President, as the meetuig was of a special character, invited us to offer remarks. Mr. Matheson referred to what Mr. Angus had sought to do in this country ; but with little encouragement. I expressed a wish to know if they had defined objects before them in this friendly meeting.- It was stated that they had, and they were understood to be — To advance personal piety ; to intercede for their families, and to seek, as merchants, the promotion of the missionary cause. Of course, we could only express warm sympathy in such objects ; but it was suggested whether, by assu- ming a more open character, and calling up the attention of the merchants generally, they might not give a fine example to the world, of that important interest conse- crating mercantile avocations to missionary objects. Ex- tending remarks of this nature were kindly received, and Were to be seriously considered. Mr. Parker also ad- dressed the meeting with humility and affection. There was a swpet spirit over it, and all were, I believe, re- freshed witli the interview. Altogether, there were about eighteen of us present. After the exercise, we breakfasted with Dr. Spring. The subject became naturally a principal one in our con- versations. He entered into it as warmly as ourselves ; and wc agreed that we would work in its favour as we I FOR BOSTON. 63 had occasion, in the hope that, before we left, something equal to the object might be attempted. In the afternoon of the same day, we left for Boston by the Providence steamer. Messrs. Boorman and Wilder, whom I had known in Paris, attended us to the boat ; and Dr. Peters and Mr. Vale, of Cincinnati, were our companions. The Sound, of which little is said, is very beautiful. We had to travel all night ; and, as the temptations to " go below" were few, and the evening was fine and warm, I remained on deck. As the night advanced, which was dark, the effect of the sparks emit- ted from the pine wood used in the furnace was peculiar. You saw not whence they came ; they spread over the dark ground of the sky, and shot abroad with every vari- ety of form and motion ; they were equal in brilliancy and grace to any fireworks which I have seen. Morning came, and we found ourselves surrounded by heavy mists ; so that the vessel was obliged to reduce her speed ahnost to nothing, for the want of landmarks. We reached Providence four hours later than usual. The mail was waiting our arrival, and we went on by it. We travelled at the rate of eight miles an hour, the quickest I have witnessed in this country. It was very hot till we came within five miles of Boston, when the temperature changed many degrees, and made us chilly. We reached the Tremont Hotel at half past seven o'clock. A meeting of the Home Missionary Society was then assembled, and we had been announced as expected. Persons were watching the first arrival ; and Dr. Cod- man and other friends were immediately with us to con- vey us to Park-street Church. Remonstrance was in vain, and without dressing and without repose, away we went. I soon found myself on the platform of a crowded assembly ; and, weary and dirty, and unwilling as I was to take a public part in the engagements of the evening, I was still happy at last, and thus suddenly, to be in the midst of the children of the Pilgrim Fathers. We had an excellent meeting. It was after ten o'clock when wo got away ; and Dr. Codman kindly attended ua to his !■ I 64 CONGREGATIONAL CONVENTION. V honour Lieutenant-governor Armstrong's, who had in- vited us to a residence in his family. In the morning, Dr. Codman, who was anxious to show us all kindness, called to take us to the Pastoral Association. It ntiet in a large vestry or lecture-room ; there were about one hundred present ; the Association, of course. embrAced only the ministers of the State of Massachusetts. V* e were introduced to the moderator, Dr. Fay, and afterward received the fraternal congratula- tions of the brethren. There was no special business before them. We afterward went to hear the annual sermon for the Society for Promoting Christian Knowl- edge ; yes, it is exactly so ; in this, as in most things, you shall find here a type of all that we have in the olden land. Mr. Stearns preached. He is a poet ; and the style of the sermon was rather too poetical for prose. It was fine ; it was good ; but it did not carry the auditors sufficiently from the preacher to the subject. The followmg day I attended, with Dr. Codman, the Congregational Convention. This, unlike the Pastoral Association, includes Unitarians. The Convention is of the nature of our Widow's Fund Society ; and, like it, it embraces persons of different creeds, and yet is commit- ted to an exercise of pubhc worship. I i easily see how the Unitarian and the orthodox may act together for any purely civil or charitable end, withouv difficulty ^ but if it is to be extended to acts of prayer> and the ministra- tion of the word of hfe, I see nothing but difficulty. So far, however, as the difficulty is practical, the brethren think it is overcome, as of late years the decided majori- ty is with the orthodox, and they always appoint, by the consent of the minority, the preacher. The business of the Convention was unimportant, and the forms not peculiar. There were but few present ; as it was understood, at the previous meeting yesterday, which was large, that little remained to demand attention. The meeting broke up ; and quickly after the public ser- vice began in the same place. The sermon was plain and orthodox ; but it was orthodoxy with effort, and or- BAPTIST EDUCATION SOCIETY. 66 thodoxy fearing to offend. The worthy preacher felt, I am persuaded, that he was not in his own pulpit ; and .d3sed through the service with constraint. Of the public meetings generally I need not speak ; except to say, that we had enough to do to attend them, and that they were attended with an interest and in numbers equal in proportion to what we had seen else- where. There is, however, one meetintj which, perhaps, I ought to notice briefly, on account of its results, and on account of its belonging to another denomination. Wi! had uniformly desired to show that our mission was not from one sect to another sect ; but from the Christian churches of one land, to those of another and a sister land ; and had sought all opportun.ties of dis- covering that Catholic spirit, which, after all, alas ! has so few occasions to show itself The friends of the Baptist denomination had applied to me to attend the meeting of their Education Society ; and I readily con- sented to meet their wishes, not only on the principle to which I have alluded, but to offer what support I could to the cause of ministerial education in that body. Next to the Methodists, the Baptists, perhaps, were wanting on this subject ; they were now awaking to a sense of the evils attendant on an uneducated ministry, and were de- manding that their instructers should themselves first be instructed. The meeting \vas held in a chapel of moderate dimen-* sions. It was full, but not crowded, and it had less wealth about it than most of the meetings. There were about a dozen ministers on the platform. The early part of the meeting was not very promising. After the re- port was read, which was good, and ought to have been very impressive by the facts it recorded, one of the brethren rose to offer a resolution. His speech was written, and he used the notes freely, and yet did not ap- pear at liberty. It was an argumem in support of the society ; reason after reason was adduced ; and at length, r% the climax of all, it was to be shown, that the peculiar ppinions they held as Baptists, were peculiarly favourably 6* ! I I I 66 BAPTIST EDUCATION SOCIETY. P»'!ll to the cause he was pleading. This was evidently not meant for unbaptized ens. The ministers looked at the speake/) then at me ; the people were disconcerted. Ho, from not having been at liberty, became coniuse;!, and felt perhaps more generously than he need to liave ^one. He referred " to what might have been said ; bat as thiy were favoured with the presence of visiters, lie would pass it by ;" and then he hastened to a conclus.on ; and I confess, such is the perversitN of our nature, that I have always wished lo know what this argument, which I am never to know, could have been. This little slip of a brother was truly Ui^eful. It awaken- ed the dormant feeling in the meeting; and all th-it fee.- ing was kindness. Wlien I rose to support his r.^iolu- tion :ts roqup'ccasion ; if we were shut up greatly from the objects on the roadside, the companions of our journey supplied us, if not with edification, certainly with some entertain- ment. First of all, our coachman was a very saucy fel- low ; he evidently thought himself better than one half of his passengers, and as good as the other half. I com- plained to him, when we stopped, that my luggage was getting wet. " Why," he exclaimed, " you don't expect to keep it dry such a day as this, do you 1" " Why," I replied, " it is the very sort of day in whicli it is your duty to keep it dry !" " Ha, ha, it will be all right," he cried, and left me. In the end, T found that it was soaked through. He did, indeed, give some directions on the subject ; but the care of the luggage has little at- tention here. When we stopped at Lowell, to change horses, a fe- male wished to secure a place onward. We were al- ready, as the phrase is, more than full ; we had nine per- sons, and two children, which are made to go for noth- ing except in the waybill. Our saucy driver opened t ■■ door, and addressing two men, who, with us, would have been outside passengers, " Now, I say, I want one of you to ride with me, and let a lady have your seat." The men felt they were addressed by a superior, but kept their places. " Come, I say," he continued, " you shall have a good buffalo and umbrel, and nothing will hurt you." Still they kept their places, and refused him. His lordship was offended, and ready to lay hands on one of them ; but, checking himself, exclaimed, " Well, if I can't get you out, hang it, if I'll take you on till one of you gets out." And there we stood for some time ; Da 76 A CHARACTER and he gained his point at last, and in civiller terms, by persuading the persons on the middle seat to receive the lady ; so that we had now twelve inside. I name this as it occurred ; not as a sample of this class of men. Generally, they feel that they owe you nothing ; but if they offer you few attentions, they seldom offend you. This was the worst instance I met with, I think, at any time. Then within, crowded and almost suffocated as we were, we had an old lady who did not fail to amuse us. She sat opposite me, and would force a conversation ; and as her voice was sharp and shrill, what was meant for me went to all, and diverted all. " As for religion, she thought one as good as another, if we did our duty ; and her notion of duty was, to mind our own business. For her part, she had always done so — she ridiculed those who employed others to do it for them — she could always do hers best for herself — she could make fifteen per cent, of money — had small sums out now at fifteen per cent." She felt that this was not approved. " Oh, she was not hard with the poor creatures — if they were pressed, she waited, and lent them a little more, so that they could pay at last. She had always been unmai led, not for want of offers, but she liked her independence, and would resent the ofTer of any man who would want to get her property." I remarked, that she had done well not to marry ; as a person like herself, who could do every thing so well, could have no need of a husband. " Right, right, sir," she cried, laughing. Then, getting thoughtful, she continued, " But I have a great deal of care ; and I often think 1 should like to retire, and be quiet ; and then I feel as though I could not be quiet — and then I should have no friend. I should want a friend if I re- tired — else I could afford it, you know." " O, I had no doubt of her having a handsome property." " 0, no, sir, your joke is very pretty ; but I did not mean to say I was rich. I have somewhere or other about 7,000 dollars ; but I guess you have more money than all of us put to- gether." And thus she continued through the journey, neverl ply. A was but a I scale all evil destro] Wei brethre ing of I with tl: PINE SCENERY. 77 never embarrassed, always prepared to meet you in re- ply, and always satisfied with her own shrewdness. She was really a character — person, features, dress, all — but a most pitiable one. A great usurer on a small scale ; the love of money had become in her the root of all evil ; it made her indifferent to a future world, and destroyed all that was feminine, tender, and benevolent. We reached Concord in the afternoon. Many of the brethren had arrived here to take their place in the meet- ing of the Pastoral Association. We took our repast with them, and united in prayer, and then retired to or- inn, as we had to start again early in the morning. The next day we left for Royalton. It was a fine day, and we had a most delightful ride. I could per- ceive that the previous ride offered some fine scenery to the eye, but it was now evidently improving, and to en- joy it, I took my seat with the driver. The views on the borders of the Connecticut, and the Black and White rivers, are full of picture, and will compare with some of the good things on the Rhine and the Bangor road. The objects are brought closer together than is common in this coimtry, and give force to each other. They are, too, just what you could desire ; but I must not dwell upon them. Conceive of yourself running along the margin of a sweet river, sometimes in quiet, sometimes in gushing motion; of undulating land, of green corn fields, of pretty cottages, of hill rising above hill, clothed with verdant and olive fir-trees, and of the Green Moun- tains of Vermont, lying in the distance, all placed in their best relations to each other ; and you will, in som« de- gree, participate in the actual scenes and pleasuies of this ride. We passed through some interesting towns and vil- lages. Hanover is one of them ; pleasantly situated, and reputed for its college. Montpelier is a young and thriving town, and is raising to itself a very handsome court-house. One office that we should deem consider- able, however, remauiS on its old scale. It is a wooden room, not a house, with its gable-end to the street ; the 7* 78 SHAKERS. door was standing open, exhibiting a desk, table, 'and chair of the plainest kind. Over the door was the label, Secretary of State. A small plate with the word " Mu- tual" on it, now began to make its appearance over or on the doors. At first it might be taken for the name of the resident ; but v/e soon found that there was an ensurance company bearing that designation. I was pleased to observe, that most of the detached dwellings had on them, or near them, raised on a pole, a bird-cote for the use of the marten, the wren, and the blue-bird. They were frequently a miniature representation of the house itself; and they were a grateful assurance of the kind-heartedness of the people. Such habits are beau- tifully illustrative of that religion, which teaches us that God cares for the lowest work of his hands, and which commands us to be the cheerful ministers of his mercy towards them. Sharon and Canterbury, also, are delightful locations. The latter is a Shaker settlement. I will not now de- tain you by setting down the extravagances of this peo- ple. Their great peculiarity is, that they repudiate mar- riage, and the intercourse of the sex'^" : they can, there- fore, only exist as an excrescence on society. They are a sort of Protestant monastery ; and their settlements are fed by similar causes. But, apart from their religious views, their economy, in its effects, is admirable. I have sfrsn several of their fstablishments, and all of them, like this, are finely situated, finely cultivated, and in the best state of preservation. There are no farms like theirs : and in the market their articles go by their name, and fetch a higher price in consequence. Their dwellings have the same character; they are neat, clean, well painted and kepi. The eye was refreshed by the spec- tacle, standing, as it did, in contrast with all around it ; and there was nothing to abate the satisfaction, except that the people did not look happy, and that — there were no childre We began now to meet with the wooden brvdge, which abounds in this country. It is usually sustained THE GULF ROAD. w on stone or wooden uprights, and composed of trussed girders, with ioose boarding, and mostly with a roof to protect it from the weather. A notice is put up at each end, of No trotting over this bridge ; a most needful pro- vision, for certainly a good trot would bring some of them down. A few of the more important ones have been constructed recently on an excellent principle, and are very steady. They say you should " speak well of the bridge that c trries you safe over ;" and certainly I never felt so much disposition to do a set of bridges jus- tice, for while they always discharged their duty, they often left me wondering how ihey were able to do it. We met on this route with a grsat many Irish, who were passing from Uanada to Lowell and Boston for em- ployment : many of them very poor, and suffering much. Those who still had some means clubbed together and hired a cart, and this took the women and children ; the weaker men getting relief in turn. One poor fellow, with bare and blistered feet, and haggard look, cast a very imploring eye on me. I felt he was a countryman, and that we were both strangers in a strange land ; I cast him what little silver I had ; and his " God bless your honour" touched my heart, for it spoke to me of home. The next day we were to reach Burlington. We had been charged to go by the Gulf road, as presenting some extraordinary scenery ; and I was rejoiced to find, that on this day the coach took that course. With high ex- pectations I took my seat again outside, much to the sur- prise of the coachman, as no one sits with him by choice. The early ride resembled what occurred yesterday ; but differently circumstanced. Heavy mists hung over the landscape, as if unwilling to be compared with what was to follow. Then, aa the day advanced, the sleeping mists began to expand and separate, to curl and sail over tho picture, veiling and unveiling all by turns, so as to clothe it with a bewitching loveliness. At length the features began to heighten and concen- trate, and indicated that something greater was to come. A.S we ran down an inclined plane, the scene continued 80 THE GULP ROAD. ! m to thicken and rise about us, till we found ourselves in the very crevice of the gulf, shut up from every thing beside, and with only room for our carriage and a small slow stream to make their way through the surrounding brushwood. The gulf is three miles through ; it is com- posed of precipitous hills, running twice the height of those at Clifton ; they are much closer and finer clothed. At one point especially it is most striking. The slug- gish water gathers life and tumbles over a rocky slope on which you stand, with sweet gushing sounds. You occupy a dell into which the sun never shines. You look up on surrounding galleries of bold and beautiful hills, clothed all over with the bursting green foliage of spring, and mingled with the dark hues and grand forms of the primitive pine. The sun has risen in all his efful- gence on the upper world ; and his vivid lights shoot across the picture, so as to cover its higher parts with all his brilliancy, and to leave you in a staie of distance and darkness which is felt and visible. It is, as a scene, perfect of its kind. But I know not that it is now what it was then. As we began to ascend we found the hand of man busy in indiscriminate destruction. But I will not trouble you wit!", unavailing lamenta- tions. On getting free of the gulf, the scenery was still good. One view especially was in contrast with it, and at that time of a very novel character. The hills stili stood about you in grandeur. The forests had some years since been fired. Yorung timber had grown up in their stead ; but the blasted and black firs rose above all on the rocks and heights, as of other generations, and gave, in an eminent degree, an air of wild sublimity to the scene. It was the hour of noon, and every thing supported the gt^eral impression. The indolent river seemed to sleep on the greensv rd. The woodman's cot was deserted ; the door open ; the axe and billet lying on the threshold. Nor man, nor child, nor beast, nor bird, was to be seen or heard. Nothing broke on the wild silence of that hour but the distant cry of the bull-frog. . We ar ner, and v I was gr tricts of tensively countries possessio stump, f( seasons is poor, ii dition of expense mostly to for less than a ne dcstructic each oth( by felling if it is wj consists i son ; it v\ sometime fired, and miles, CO method, € the tree, ^ When the trees rero.i in every some occ thing I hj the great f),nd if y< know tha settlemen On res sights w< ruminate I ■ CLEARING. 81 We arrived at a small place called Waterbury, to din- ner, and were supplied with the plainest accommodations. I was greatly surprised to find, in this old country, dis- tricts of such wild aspect, and clearings going on so ex- tensively. But they prevail here as much as in the new countries, and from the following cause. Parties take possession of the land, and clear it by firing all but the stump, for they are sure to be rewarded for one or two seasons with good crops. By this time the land, which is poor, is exhausted, and will only repay them on con- dition of being well cultivated. Rather than go to this expense or labour, they abandon it, and move elsewhere, mostly to the west, where they find a soil more grateful for less exertion. The land is no sooner abandoned than a new forest springs up ; and thus the processes of destruction and renovation are continually succeeding each other. The methods of removing the timber are by felling, by filing, and by girdling. The first is used if it is wanted, or will fetch a price ; the second method consists in setting fire to some of the trees in the dry sea- son ; it will quickly spread to any extent you desire, and sometimes beyond it. A small plot in this vicinity was fired, and the fire ran over a district of twelve square miles, consuming every thing in its way. The third methody of girdling, is by cutting a ring in the bark of the tree, which prevents the sap from rising, and kills it. When the methods of firing and girdling are adopted, the trees remain a long period leafless, withered, blasted, and in every stage of ruin; and they give to the scene, on some occasions, an air of grand desolation, unlike every thing I had beheld. So far as husbandry is concerned, the great expense lies iu extracting the prodigious roots ; and if you see this operation going forward, you may know that the party has determined on a permanent settlement. On reaching our dinner station, I concluded that my sights were over for the day, and was quite willing to ruminate on what the eye had seen. To my astonish* D3 82 THE PALLS ment, however, we had not got two miles from the inn, before we reached what are called the Waterbury Falls ; and a view was opened before us surpassing all that had been previously exhibited. But how shall I make you see it 1 Let us try. A sweet smiling river is gliding along, like a bed of quicksilver, at your feet. A little below you, its quiet course is obstructed by a rock, which springs suddenly from its bed, and which is in place, form, and colour, among the finest I have seen ; and it is crowned with dark and primitive firs. One half the river runs off to the left with quickened motion, but in friendly channels ; while, on the right, the other half has cut its passage through the rock, and is dashing down the ruin it has made. Beyond this obstruction, you see the two streams hastening to embrace each other, like sisters who have been separated and in trouble, but are one again. This is the foreground. Then, on the one hand, close on the Fall, rises abruptly rather a mountain than a hill, presenting you with a ledge of rock-work, by which you are to pass, overhanging the waters, overshadowed with trees, and supplying you with a loop-hole to look out on the distant scenery. On the other hand, tiers of hills form themselves into receding and rising galleries, adorned with forests of the brightest and darkest hues. Before and beyond, others still spread themselves in the distance, in rival forms of loveliness, till at length the picture is closed by the fine outline of the camel-backed mountain. The distant openings sup- ply the picture with all the advantages of perspective ; the striking foreground is thrown up with surprising power ; while the eye reposes beyond it in fields of softened brightness and beauty. But I must have done with descriptions ; at least, of this class. Did I not know that you have strong tastes for the beauties of nature, and that they contribute so delightfully to the innocent gratifications of life, I should fear I had utterly wearied you. But I really want you to become acquainted with this people and with this country that acq pretensi( Early ton ; and all its gl to comp: new cha town is and for I vancing lake to S joined tli looked o the piazz scene im ing, but I found I centre oi ton ; and cially oc( here of y and were of their to his sa and anot tant she His voic a bell, to To hear only six cents an any mori crack hi cents an One F ing a ta several poor ma BURLINGTON. 83 country ; and these sketches may possibly assist you to that acquaintance better than means of more imposing pretensions. Early in the afternoon we came in sight of Burhng- ton ; and below it lay the Lalie Champlain, expanding in all its glory. Had I wished for another scene this day to compare with the previous ones, and yet of an entirely new character, I could hardly have had a better. The town is excellently situated, for health, for appearance, and for business ; and it is in a very thriving and ad- vancing state. The boat by which we were to cross the lake to St. John's, would not arrive till ten o'clock. We joined the evening meal at the table d^hdte ; and having looked over the town and the bookstore, took a seat under the piazza of the inn, and watched for the boat. The scene immediately before me was animated and interest- ing, but it hardly agreed with the quiet joys of the day. I found myself on one side of a square, which was the centre of bustle and parade to the good town of Burling- ton ; and being the last evening in the week, it was spe- cially occupied. The inn itself w a? vciy noisy. Num- bers of youth who boarded here, had closed their labours, and were full of frolic. The boys were engaged in some of their stormy plays. One auctioneer had just finished, to his satisfaction, his mountebank sale before the door ; and another had just begun his noisy gibberish in a dis- tant shop. Though distant, I could distinctly hear. His voice, in the first instance, answered the purpose of a bell, to call the people together, and it did it effectually. To hear him cry as he did ! " Six cents and a half — ■ only six cents and a half! What! shall it go for six cents and a half? — shall it go for nothing! — Nobody bid any more — not another cent !" That ever man should crack his voice, and emit a world of noise, about six cents and a half ! One person — a gentleman of this district — ^was sport- ing a tandem about the square, and had really started several times to go home, but could not get courage, poor man ! I do not wonder. At home he could not -iVV 84 NIAGARA. exhibit eithoi 1 ^ tandem or himself; how, then, could he part with the atimiration of the square 1 All we o en- gaged ; but they seemed poorly engaged. One o«' the finest lakes in the world lay under their eye in the last lights of evening — no one saw it ! The bright and love- ly stars were walking in silence over their heads, through the paths of heaven — no one admired them ! But I must check myself, The day had not disposed me to noise and bustle, and it was Saturday evening — a period usu- ally given to serious objects and absent friends ; and I was in danger of being severe on this work-a-day world — so full of itself, and so much without God ! From Burlington we passed into the Canadas. As the excursion into this country will be separately noticed, I shall pass forward to Niagara, the point at which we again entered the American territories. LETTER IX. My jjKAtt Friend, Now for I he Falls. The town of Niagara has no con- nexion with the Falls of Niagara ; they are fifteen miles apart. We left the town, therefore, on the morning of the 24th, deeming the time lost which kept us from the great object of pursuit. The ride is very pleasant, by the side of the river, which is here narrow and deep, com- pressed by hills on both sides, and finely fringed by forest trees. The land is good in this vicinity, and some of it in good keeping ; the roadside is verdant, and is made fragrant and cheerful by an abundance of sweet- brier, which is growing wild, and was then in bloom. We passed through Queenstown, t}N 23 WBT MAIN STMIT WMSTIR,N.Y. MSM (71«)t73*4S03 I 88 THE PALLS. |i::| m riousness spread over the object which suits your con- ception of its greatness, and in which the imagination loves to luxuriate. I can scarcely define to you my im- pressions on this first day ; 1 can scarcely define them to myself. I was certainly not disappointed ; but I was confounded. I felt as though I had received a shock, and required time to right myself again. I returned to the Pavilion, which is about half a mile from the Falls, and retired to my chamber, which over- looked them. I mused on what I had seen, and was still confounded. I sought rest that I might be fresh for the morrow ; but rest did not come so freely. The con- tinuous deep sounds of the waters would have sung me to sleep, but the tremour of the house and ground, which shook the windows like those of a stagecoach, kept me wakeful ; and when I fell into slumbers, the flitting dreams of what I had seen, would trouble and break them. Notwithstanding all disturbances, I rose on the next morning in good spirits. The day was all that could be wished. The sun shining, the heavens transparent, gar- nished with bright and peaceful clouds. The wind, too, was gentle and refreshing ; and had shifted to our side, so as to promise the nearest points of sight without the discomfort of getting wet through. I now looked fairly on the scene as it presented itself at my window, in the fair lights of the morning. It is composed rather of the accompaniments of the fall than of the fall itself. You look up the river full ten miles, and it runs in this part from two to three miles in breadth. Here it has formed, in its passage, beautiful little bays ; and there it has worked through the slips of mainland, putting out the fragments as so many islets to decorate its surface ; while, on either hand, it is bounded by the original forests of pine. At the upper extremity you see the blue waters calmly resting under the more cerulean heavens ; while nearer to you it becomes agita- ted, Uke a strong man preparing to run a race. It swells, and foams, and recoils, as though it were committed to some THE FALLS. 87 desperate issue ; and then suddenly contTacts its di- mensions, as if to gather up all its power for the mighty leap it is about to make. Tills is all you see here ; and it is enough. I left the hotel, and went down to the Table Rock. This is usually deemed the great point of sight ; and for an upper view it undoubtedly is. It ia composed of several ledges of rock, having different advantages, and projecting as far over the gulf below as they can to be safe. But how shall I describe the objects before me ? The mysterious veil which lay heavily yesterday on a large part of it, was now removed ; and the outline of the picture was mostly seen. An ordinary picture would have suffered by this ; but here the real dimensions are so vast, and so far beyond what the eye has measured, that to see them is not to fetter, but to. assist the imagination. This fall, which is called the Horseshoe Fall, is upwards of 2,000 feet in extent, and makes a leap, on an average, of about 200 feet. Now just enlarge your conceptions to these surprising dimensions, and suppose yourself to be recumbent on the,projecting rock which I have named, as near the verge as you dare, and I will assist you to look at the objects as they present themselves. You see not now above the cataract the bed of the river ; but you still see the foaming heads of the rapids, like waves of the ocean, hurrying to the precipice ; and over them the light clouds which float on the horizon. Then comes the chute itself. It is not in the form of the horseshoe ; it is not composed of either circular or straight lines ; but it partakes of both ; and throughout it is marked by projections and indentations, which give an amazing variety of form and aspect. With all this variety it is one. It has all the power which is derived from unity, and none of the stiffness which belongs to uni- formity. There it falls in one dense awful mass of green waters, unbroken and resistless ; here it is broken into drops, and falls like a sea of diamonds sparkling in the sun. Now it shoots forth like rockets in endless suc- cession ; and now it is so light and foaming that it dan- •(I ) i I 1 Mi 88 THE PALLS. ces in the sun as it goes, and before it has reached the pool, it is driven up again by the ascending currents of air. Then there is the deep expanding pool below. Where the waters pitch, all is agitation and foam, so that the foot of the fall is never seen; and beyond it and away, the waters spread themselves out like a rippling sea of liquid alabaster. This last feature is perfectly unique, and you would think nothing could add to its ex- quisite loveliness ; but there lies on it, as if they were made for each other, " heaven's own bow." never had it, in heaven itself, so fair a resting-place ! Besides, by reason of the different degrees of rarity in the waters and the atmosphere, the sun is pervading the whole scene with unwonted lights and hues. And the foam which is flying off in all directions, is insensibly condensed, and forms a pillar of cloud, which moves over the scene, as it once did over the tents of Israel, and apparently by the same bidding, giving amazing va- riety, and sublimity, and unearthliness to the picture. Then there is sound as well as sight ; but what sound ! It is not like the sea ; nor like the thunder ; nor like any thing I have heard. There is no roar« no rattle ; nothing sharp or angry in its tones ; it is deep, awful, one ! Well, as soon as I could disengage myself from this spot, I descended to the bed of the fall. I am never sat- isfied with any fall till I have availed myself of the very lowest standing it supplies ; it is there usr that you become susceptible of its utmost power. .rambled, therefore, over th6 dislocated rocks, and put myself as near as possible to the object which I wished to absorb me. I was not disappointed. There were now fewer objects in the picture ; but what you saw had greater prominence and power over you. Every thing ordinary — foliage, trees, hills— was shut out ; the smaller attributes of the fall were also excluded ; and I was left alone with its own greatness. At my feet the waters were creaming, swelling, and dashing away, as if in terror, from the scene of conflict, at the rate of twenty miles an hour. Above and overhanging me was dark and immedia majesty- eye cou with its fall direc weight around cloud of to spread on the fi beautiful an entire But it is the bliss When away tov side. Tl and unifc proachin§ not subdi you with and beau dining to inclining Fall on tl regarded 200 feet spreads i of some I foun this f?.U, can Stan shoot ot nerve, it and beai behind t face, till I THE PALLS 89 me was the Table Rock, with its majestic form, and dark and hvid colours, threatening to crush one. While immediately before me was spread in all its height and majesty — not in parts, but as a whole, beyond what the eye could embrace — the unspeakable cataract itself ; with its head now touching the horizon, and seeming to fall direct from heaven, and rushing to the earth with a weight and voice which made the rocks beneath and around me fearfully to tremble. Over this scene the cloud of foam mysteriously moved, rising upward, so as to spread itself partly on the face of the fall, and partly on the face of the sky ; while over all were seen the beautiful and soft colours of the rainbow, forming almost an entire circle, and crowning it with celestial glory. But it is vain. The power, the sublimity, the beauty, the bliss of that spot, of that hour — it cannot be told. When fairly exhausted by intensity of feeling, I strolled away towards the ferry, to pass over to the American side. The Falls here, from the distance, have a plain and uniform aspect ; but this wholly disappears on ap- proaching them. They are exceedingly fine. They do not subdue you as on the Canadian side ; but they fill you with a solemn and delightful sense of their grandeur and beauty. The character ot the one is beautiful, in- clining to the sublime ; and that of the other, the sublime, inclining to the beautiful. There is a single slip of the Fall on this side, which, in any other situation, would be regarded as a most noble cataract. It falls upwards of 200 feet ; it is full 20 feet wide at the point of fall, and spreads itself like a fan in falling, so as to strike on a line of some 50 or 60 feet. It has great power and beauty. I found that there was a small ledge of rock behind this fp.U, and ventured on it to about the centre. You can stand here without getting at all wet ; the waters shoot out several feet before you; and, if you have nerve, it is entirely safe. I need not say that the novelty and beauty of the situation amply reward you. You are behind the sheet of water, and the sun is shining on its face, illuminating the whole body with a variety propor- 8* I 1 111 tf i 90 THS PALLS. Hi tioncd to its density. Here, before you, the heavy waters fall in unbroken columns of bright green. There, the*^ flow down like a shower of massy crystals, radiant with light, and emitting as they fall all the prismatic colours ; while there, again, they are so broken and divided, as to resemble a shower of gems sparkUng in light, and shoot- ing across the blue heavens. I passed by what is called Goat Island to the extremity of the Horseshoe Fall on this side. There is carried out over the head of this fall a limb of timber, with a hand-rail to it. It projects some 13 feet over the abyss, and is meant to supply the place of the Table Rock on the other side. It does so in a great measure ; and as, while it is quite as safe, it gives you far less sense of safety, it disposes you the more to sympathize with ob- jects of terror. Indeed, when you fairly get to the ex- tremity, and find yourself standing out in this world of waters on a slip of wood only large enough for your feet to rest on, and which is quivering beneath you ; when the waters are rushing down under you ; when the spray is flying over you ; and when the eye seeks to fathom the unfathomable and boisterous gulf below ; you have, per- haps, as much of the terrible as will consist with gratifi- cation. Very many of the visiters never think of en- countering this I oint of view : those who do and have a taste for it will never forget it. It is among the finest of the fine. In returning, I wandered round the little island. It is covered with forest-trees of a fine growth, and is full of picturesque beauty. Days might be spent here in happy and deep seclusion ; protected firom the burning sun; re- galed by lovely scenes of nature, and the . music of the sweetest waters ; and in fellowship, at will, with the mighty Falls. The next morning was the last; and it was given wholly to the Great Fall. I prepared, in the first instance, to go benind it. This is the chief adventure ; and is by most writers described as dangerous. There is no dan ger if the overhanging rocks keep their places, and if you /! g have mode dress proi; as damp quickly dii the scenes the better, and there "Take ca and I had further ad^ give me yo est part." on Termin the foot of As the standing, eyes. B\: and water: my sides of the fall threaten nJ roof of the were at thi ful constn the one sp the other c the footing entered ab of thinner glowing p light and 1: sity of the give only gloom, th commotio] lar and a^ the creati( real horn knew. THS FALLS. 91 ivy waters here, the'^ diant with c colours; ded, as to ind shoot- extremity is carried Br, with a the abyss, Rock on ; and as, sense of ) with ob- to the ex* world of your feet when the e spray is athom the lave, Per- th gratifi- ik of en- nd have a 3 finest of id. It is is full of in happy sun; re- »ic of the with the 'as given instance, and is by 3 no dan nd if you I have moderate self-possession. I made use of the oil-cloth dress provided by the guide, and was quarrelling with it as damp and uncomfortable; but that grievance was quickly disposed of. I had not made my entrance behind the scenes before I was drenched, and the less I had on the better. However, it was an admirable shower-bath ; and there was an end to the question of wet or dry. " Take care of your breath," was the cry of the guide ; and I had need, for it was almost gone. On making a further advance, I recovered it, and felt relieved. "Now give me your hand," said the guide ; " this is the narrow- est part." Onward I went, till he assured me that I was on Termination Rock ; the extreme point accessible to the foot of man. As the labour of the foot was over, and there was good standing, I determined on making the best use of my eyes. But this it was not so easy to do. The spray and waters were driving in my face, and coursing down my sides most strangely : a strong wind from the foot of the fall was driving in the opposite direction, so as to threaten not to blow me down, but to blow mt up to the roof of the vault. However, I soon ascertained that we were at the extremity of a cavern of large and wonder- ful construction. It is in the form of a pointed arch ; the one span composed of rolling and dense water, and the other of livid black rocks. It was some 50 feet from the footing of the rock to that of the water, and I had entered about 70 feet. On the entrance, which is mostly of thinner waters, the sun played cheerfully, and with glowing power ; but within it was contrasted by the dim light and heavy obscurity which are generated by the den- sity of the fall, to which the whole power of the sun can give only a semi-transpaxenoy. "What with this visible gloom, the stunning nois* of the fall, and the endless commotion of wind and Waters, the effect is most singu- lar and awful. It ia^ scene that would harmonize with the creations of Fusc^i ; and it has, I will venture to say, real horrors beyond what the cave of old .^olus ever knew. ' I ' I '%^'~ 98 THE FALLS. •r) 1 On returning to my dressing-room, I received a certifi- cate from the guide that I had really been to Termination Rock ; a ridiculous device to give importance to his vo- cation, but in the success of which he does not miscal- culate on human nature. The rest of the morning was employed in taking peeps at the Falls from favourite points of observation ; but chiefly on the Table Rock, and at the foot of the Great Fall. The day was exceedingly fine, and every feature of the amazing scene vas lighted up with all its beauty ^ and I now communed with it as one would with a friend who has already afforded you rich enjoyment in his society. I was delighted — was fascinated. Every thing, apart or together, seemed to have acquired greater power and expression. I studied all the parts ; they were exquisite, lovely, noble ; I put them all together, and it overwhelmed me, subdued me, fixed me to the spot. Long I stayed ; but all time was short. I went ; and returned ; and knew not how to go. I have been thus particular in my account ci these Falls, because the world knows nothing like them ; and because I wished you to participate in my pleasures. I have seen many falls, and with unspeakable delight ; but nothing to be named with this. It would in parts present the image of them all ; but all united would not supply a just idea of it. It is better to see it than a thousand ordi- nary sights ; they may revive sleeping emotions, and so bring delight ; but this creates new emotion, and raises the mind a step higher in its conceptions of the power and eternity of Him whom " to know is life eternal." The day on which it is seen should be memorable in the life of any man. I am sorry, in closing, that I cannot say much for the taste either of the visiters or inhabitants of this spot. The visiters seemed to regard the Falls rather as an ob- ject of curiosity than otherwise ; and when they had satis- fied their curiosity (wliich in most cases was very quickly done), and could report that they had seen them, the duty was discharged. Such persons drove in on the morning, explored for a couple of hours, dinedf and hunied away. Or, if the they mad album he contrast t Withtl the Amer called it 1 agara! A and turn i — and su seeking f of erectin close on t ing a mill things. ' vent them does not should be nothing si the tastes, 2 Mt Hatinc must mon on the Niagara, Black Ro This boat boat; bu as more < were dri^ by four large end I i BUFFALO. 93 a certifi* rmination his vo- t miscal- ning was favourite lock, and jeedingly 18 lighted with it as rded you ted — was eemed to itudied all put them me, fixed ^as short. cf these lem; and sures. I light; but ts present ; supply a sand ordi- 8, and so nd raises he power eternal." ble in the 3h for the this spot, as an ob- had satis- fy quickly , the duty I morning, ied away. Or, if they stayed, they had had enough of Niagara, and they made an excursion to see the burning springs. The album here, too, is full of miserable trash ; it is a sad contrast to the album at Chamouni. With the residents I am half disposed to be angry. On the American side they have got up a shabby town, and called it Manchester. Manchester and the Falls of Ni- agara ! A proposition has been made to buy Goat Island, and turn it into a botanical garden, to improve the scenery — and such scenery ! On the Canadian side, a money- seeking party have bought up 400 acres, with the hope of erecting " llie City of the Falls ;" and still worse, close on the Table Rock, some party was busy in erect- ing a mill-dam ! One has hardly patience to record these things. The universal voice ought to interfere, and pre- vent them. Niagara does not belong to them ; Niagara does not belong to Canada or America. Such spots should be deemed the property of civilized mankind ; and nothing should be allowed to weaken their efficacy on the tastes, the morals, and the enjoyments of all men. /• { I. ( . Ti^'x-**. £-t «i LETTER X. Mt dkar Friend, Having paused so long with you at the Falls, we must move forward with the greater celerity. We left on the S6th for Buffalo. The ride is still along the Nii^ara, and is very pleasing. On coming opposite the Black Rock, we had to cross the river by the ferry-boat. This boat was constructed on the principle of the steam- boat ; but the moving power was obtained from horses, as more economical on a small scale. The water-wheels were driven by a horizontal wheel, which was impelled by four horses. It was provided with an upward face large enough for the horses to stand on ; they were fa»- r' ! '\\ i ! « : ■*» y\ 94 BUFFALO. tened by traces to a fixed bar, so that when thoy were in motion, instead of advancing, they thrust the wheel backward. Buffalo is a beautiful town, situated on rising ground, at the junction of the river and Lake Erie ; and it is thriving almost beyond example. In the year 1814, it was entirely destroyed by the British forces ; so entirely that it is said only one house was left standing ; and this was saved by a remarkable adventure on the part of an old woman, who is still living. Seeing every thing in ruin and in flames around her, and made desperate by the thought of her dwelling meeting the common fate, she resolved to enter the camp of the adversary, and plead her cause. In fulfilling this determination, she supplied herself with a broomstick, tied a white hand- kerchief to it, made her way to the sentinels, and de- manded an audience of the commanding officer. She was not in a temper to submit readily to denial ; and at length she succeeded. She represented to him, with the feeling and tears which the occasion awakened, that she was a poor widow ; that she had many fatherless chil- dren ; that the house was all that the father had left to them ; that it had hitherto sustained them ; but that if it were destroyed, they were all utterly ruined. The house was spared at the prayer of the importunate widow. On the close of the war, the Congress voted 80,000 dollars to atone for the losses suffered. This gave, in union with the indignation natural to the sufferers, great life to the efforts for restoring the town ; and it quickly rose, like another phenix, from the flames. Advancing commerce, however, has done more for it than any other cause. In 1835 it had only a population of 3,300 ; now it amounts to 13,000 ! The Eagle Hotel, at which we stayed for the night, is excellent. The Rev. Mr. Eaton, with whom we had met at the public meetings, showed us kind attentions. The morning of the ensuing day we left by the steam- boat. We had no sooner got on board than we found that there was a strong opposition between this and LAKE ERIE. 95 another boat. Our boat actually stayed an hour and a half after time, to get the other out, that it might race with it. Some of us remonstrated ; but the general impress sion was that it would be futile. At last our vessel was compelled to start first ; but still not to abandon its pur- pose. It moved quietly down the creek, and beyond the pier, with the other boat in its rear ; it then described a fine circle in the water, and thus brought itself fairly alongside of its antagonist, and thus gave it challenge on equal terms. Great and hazardous effort was now made on each side, the advantage being on ours. The other boat, after running us close, though still falling behind, either feigned to have or had an accident with her machinery, and suddenly stopped in the waters. We had no reason to think the occurrnnce serious to the passengers ; and were not sorry to pursue our path on the waters unattended by this troublesome spirit of rivalry. My wonder was that the passengers, including judges and governors, should have been such mute witnesses of these liberties in pubUc conveyances. We were now advanced some thirty miles on the bosom of Lake Erie. On the one side land was not visible ; on the other it was from two to four miles dis- tant. The dimensions of these larger lakes are often quoted by travellers as pledges sufficient of their interest and grandeur ; but, as you know, these properties are often in the inverse proportion to the dimensions. These waters, for instance, are too vasi to supply you with the picturesque, and they are too small to supply you with the grandeur of the ocean. They are invaluable, how- ever, as the highways of commerce ; or rather, they have become so since the use of steam as a motive power. The average voyage to Detroit used to be three weeks ; it is now four days. Six years ago there were only five steamboats on this lake ; there are now thirty- five. In the last year, 1833, 100,000 persons were transported across these waters ; and, what is remarka- ble, two thirds of that number were natives. The boat which was conveying us, is one of the best I ' . I , - *■ '',»■ I , 96 DUNKIRK. V.-*^'- ';'i !i I have leen. Provitions, accommodations, and attend- ance, all excellent. Mr. Pratt, a proprietor, was on board. He was very obliging. He allowed no spirits to be on the table ; and requested me to implore a bles- sing on our repast. This was the first occasion in which I had known it done at a public meal. Our compaL, viras very miscellaneous, but, on the whole, agreeable. vVe had, particularly, some interesting conversations with Judge Wilkinson on important subjects, and the Western country. There were some tradesmen on board, who, on reaching home, would have made a journey of from 3,000 to 3,000 miles to go to market. Alter a run of about forty miles, we came to Dunkirk, a small town on the left bank, where we were to deposite passengers and take in wood. Mr. Stillman, a worthy and discreet minister of the Baptist communion, who had been lately settled here, came on board. I embraced the passing opportunity to learn something of the reli- gious state of the place. It was interesting. The popu- lation was about 600. There were three places of worship ; Presbyterian, Methodist, and Baptist. When the settlement was much smaller, and before they could get churches erected, it was found that the people's morals were relaxing, and that many who came to settle refused to do so. Those, therefore, who had a worldly interest in the place, united with the religious in building churches. In this way, six persons of worldly habits and views had agreed at first to sustain him. They had, in the last winter, which was a season of revival, been converted, and were at this time building him a church. Thus it is that " the earth" is made to " help the woman," and in doing so becomes less earthly. In the evening of the day we reached Erie ; the place at which, by previous agreement, Mr. Matheson and myself were to separate. He thought this the best op- portunity of visiting a relative in Pennsylvania ; and as he had been several times indisposed, he was apprehen- sive of a more trying region. Indeed, the reports from the West had been discouraging ; and, under the circum- stances, ] might hay was fixed both, but West and the expec Pittsburgh A a the younger s reinarkabl burning s; spot. In the I great thori originally still be su the lake, I me with b The remai conversati ing to his in his and red in the In the Christians him for pi pray with the month round to ' the churcl the place much imp: their char und very j for six mo religious (3 The se( an agedw in Israel.' Vol. I. CLEAVCLANO. 97 stances, I did not feel at liberty to urge him when it might have been to his injury. For myself, my mind was fixed. It was indispensable to our duty, not that boti), but that one of us should see as much of the West and South as possible. We parted, therefore, in the expectation, if life were preserved, of meeting at Pittsburgh. As the night shut in, we passed by Portland, a still younger settlement, but very promising. It is chiefly remarkable for a lighthouse, brilliantly lighted from a burning spring, full three quarters of a mile from the spot. In the morning we paused at Cleaveland. This is a great thoroughfare for the West : and it was here that I originally intended to debark. But on finding I should still be sure of conveyances by going on to the head of the lake, I determined on that course, as it would supply me with better opportunities of seeing the State of Ohio. The remainder of the passage was made pleasant by the conversation of a minister of that State, who was return- ing to his charge. There had been recently two revivals in his and other congregations. Generally, they occur- red in the following way. In tho first, concern came over the minds of a few Christians for a better state of religion. They met with him for prayer ; and agreed to visit, and converse, and pray with the people. While thus feeling and acting, the monthly conference of ministers and elders came round to this place. Report was made of the state of the churches ; and the awakened state of the people at the place of meeting was in turn reported. All were much impressed. The preaching and prayers received their character from it. The effect was very general und very good. Many became truly serious then ; and for six months afterward, there were some instances of religious decision every week. The second occasion was connected with the death of an aged woman, a member of the church, and " a mother in Israel." She had seven children: they were now Vol. I.— E 9 ,• ! I ; 1 'I ; i 08 REVIVAL. * I ii grown up and settled in life; but^ notwithstanding all her instructions and prayers, they had become exceetjt- ingly worldly, and during her lifetime, disregarded seri- ous religion. Her death, however, did what her life failed to do. Her eldest daughter was much affected by the event, and by the painful reflections it brought with it. She was visited and conversed with. Her husband came in at the time ; and the conversation, without chang- ing its character, naturally turned to him ; and the season justified a pointed address, and he also fell under the force of salutary conviction. Another son, who was brought from New- York to the funeral, and who had been conspicuous in the infidel club of that city, became fearfully convicted of sin, and was driven to temporary despair ; but in the end, he confessed his sins, and pro- fessed Christ with great earnestness and decision. In such a rural population, these things would not be done in a corner, but would be known to all. They had a very beneficial effect on many ; and the good minister sought a careful improvement of the dispensation. The effect on this family was, that five of the seven children were united to the church ; and the effect of the two seasons of revived influence was, that about one hundred persons gave good "reason of the hope that was in them.*' No peculiarity of method was adopted here ; and the anx- ious seat was not used. At present, I merely record facts. In the middle of the day we reached Sandusky, at which place I separated from the boat. It is prettily situated on the margin of a small bay ; and the country lies well and quietly around it. It has not more than 700 or 800 inhabitants ; but it is nevertheless a city, with its corporate rights and officers. Of course there are only small materials here for the composition of mayor and council, and they are, theiefore, small men ; but they are in keeping with the place and people, and that is more than one could say of the lord mayor and aldeipnen of the city of London, if they should be here. It is truly a city in a forest ; for the large stumps of the original pines are still standing in the main street, and new woo defy the I went as one cc cleaner, thunder-s mendous fectory, i] on my sai for the r came sp: style. B here. A through, vessel as A searchi and my ] up my mi that migl caution tt aware of share of some was if things the pros] less, shir There Presbytei odists. them in greenswa want of ] people h( costs not according town; ai for its Wi nowhere. SANDUSKY. 99 nding all I exceeil- ded seri- t her life (iected by ight with r husband lUt chang- lie season under the who was who had ff became temporary , and pro- sion. In •t be done hey had a I minister on. The n. children f the two e hundred in them/' d the anx- cord facts, idusky, at is prettily le country more than 3S9 a city, urse there osition of nail men; eople, and nayor and d be here, nps of the street, and I over the spots that have been cleared for settlement, the new wood is springing up with amazing vigour, as if to defy the hand of man. I went to the best inn in the town. It was not such as one could boast of; but it had been better, had it been cleaner. It was, however, welcome to me, as a heavy thunder-storm was just beginning to put forth its tre- mendous power. When seated at the table of the re- fectory, in search of refreshments, I congratulated myself on my safety ; but my confidence was quickly moderated, for the rain soon found its way within the house, and came spattering down the walls of the room in strange style. By-the-by, few things seem to be water-proof here. A second time, my luggage has been soaked through. I had placed it under the upper deck of the vessel as a place of perfect security ; but it was vain. A searching rain came on in the night ; the deck leaked, and my portmanteau suffered. However, I had made up my mind, in starting, not to be disturbed by any thing that might be injured, lost, or stolen on the way : a pre- caution that had certainly more wisdom in it than I was aware of; for, without it, I might have had a pretty good share of disturbance. Already much was injured, and some was stolen : of the future I could not speak ; but, if things went on in the same promising manner, I had the prospect of being returned to New- York in a coat- less, shirtless, and very bootless condition. There are two places of worship here ; one for the Presbyterians, and the other for the Episcopal Meth- odists. The first is without a minister ; and neither of them in a very flourishing state. They stand on the greensward ; they are about thirty feet square, and for want of paint, have a worn and dirty aspect. The good people here reverse the Dutch proverb ; it is not " Paint costs nothing," but " Wood costs nothing ;" and they act accordingly. They will, however, improve with the town ; and at present they offer accommodation enough for its wants ; but half the adult population certainly gp nowhere. E8 ! \ 1 - ■ ! - \ 100 COLUMBUS. I J ' Indeed, the state of religious and moral feeling was evidently very low here. For the first time I overheard obscene conversation ; and I heard more swearing and saw more Sabbath-breaking than I had before witnessed. There were many Groceries^ as they call themselves, here ; Groggeries, as their enemies call them ; and they were all full. Manners, which are consequent on re- ligion and morahty, were proportionally affected. I felt that I was introduced to a new state of things, which demanded my best attention. Having rested here over the Sabbath, I arranged to leave by coach early in the morning for Columbus. We were to start, I was told, at three o'clock ; I rose, there- fore, at two. Soon after I had risen, the bar-agent came, to say that the coach was ready, and would start in ten minutes, as the rain had made the roads bad. This was rather an ominous as well as xmtimely intimation. But there was no remedy ; so I made what haste I could in dressing, and went down to take my place. I had no sooner begun to enter the coach, than splash went my foot in mud and water. I exclaimed with surprise. " Soon be dry, sir," was the reply ; while he withdrew the light, that I might not explore the cause of complaint. The fact was, that the vehicle, hke the hotel and the steamboat, was not water-tight, and the rain had found an entrance. There was, indeed, in this coach, as in most others, a provision in the bottom, of holes, to let off both water and dirt ; but here the dirt had become mud, and thickened about the orifices so as to prevent escape. I found I was the only passenger; the morning was damp and chilly ; the state of the coach added to the sensation ; and I eagerly looked about for some means of protection. I drew up the wooden windows ; out of five small panes of glass in the sashes, three were bro- ken. I endeavoured to secure the curtains ; two of them had most of the ties broken, and flapped in one's face. There was no help in the coach; so I looked to myself. I made the best use I could of my garments, and put my- self as snugly as I could in the corner of a stage meant to accomi then not i ing; ever me; and i screechinf for my em But th( All that \ upon me. able: the; The horse the way; tain whet sooner rec there cam founded a was liters should I li I at first Let me di by stating four horse miles; an Columbus conveyan( any in tht At six we were respite m order, ver abundant ter and t eggs, and driver sa host wai case in s subsidiar whole of picture ; RUSSELI TAVERN. 101 I : to accommodate nine persons. My situation was just then not among the most cheerful. I could see noth- ing ; everywhere I could feel the wind drawn in upon me; and as for sounds, I had the calls of the driver, the screeching of the wheels, and the song of the bull-frog, for my entertainment. . But the worst of my solitary situation was to come. All that had been intimated about bad roads now came upon me. They were not only bad ; they were intoler- able : they were rather like a stony ditch than a road. The horses, on the first stages, could only walk most of the way ; we were frequently in to the axletree, uncer- tain whether we should ever get out; and I had no sooner recovered from a terrible plunge on one side, than there came another in the opposite direction, and con- founded all my efforts to preserve a steady sitting. I was literally thrown about like a ball. How gladly should I have kept fixed possession of that corner, which I at first occupied with some degree of dissatisfaction ! Let me dismiss the subject of bad roads for this journey, by stating, in illustration, that, with an empty coach, and four horses, we were seven hours in going twenty-three miles ; and that we were twenty-eight hours in getting to Columbus, a distance of 110 miles. Yet this line of conveyance was advertised as a " splendid line, equal to any in the States." At six o'clock we arrived at Russell's Tavern, where we were to take breakfast. I was quite as glad of the respite as of the meal. This is a nice inn; in good order, very clean, and the best provision. There was an abundant supply ; but most of it was prepared with but- ter and the frying-pan ; still there was good coffee and eggs, and delightful bread. Most of the family and the driver sat down at table, and the two daughters of our host waited on us. Mr. Russell, as is commonly the case in such districts, made the occupation of innkeeper subsidiary to that of farming. You commanded the whole of his farm from the door, and it was really a fine picture ; the soil so good, the ground so well kept, and 0* \S»i^ 102 PRAIRIES. I the young crops so blooming and promising in the midat of the desert. From the good manners of this family, and from the good husbandry and respectable carriage of the father, I hoped to find a regard for religion here. I turned to the rack of the bar, and found there three books ; they were, the Gazetteer of Ohio, Popular Geog- raphy, and the Bible ; they all denoted intelligence ; the last was the most used. This was as I expected, and as it should be. Things now began to mend with me ; daylight had come ; the atmosphere was getting warm and bland ; I had the benefit of a good breakfast ; the road was in some measure improved ; it was possible to look abroad, and every thing was inviting attention. We were now passing over what is called the Grand Prairie ; and the prairies of this western country are, as you know, con- spicuous among its phenomena. I will not burden you by my speculations on the subject, except to say they are certainly of vegetable formation ; and it may, I conceive, be readily determined by what processes. The first im- pression did not please me so much as I expected. The soil when recovered is rich, and the staple strong ; but in its natural state much of it is inclined to be wet and boggy. It is flat; it is covered with a thick, coarse, knotted grass, and in the near view is prettily coloured by the bright colours of the rose, the flag, the marigold, the dwarf willow, and the lupin, which is here a little shrub. It rather interests by its singularity, than other- wise. If there be any other source of interest, it may be found in its expansion over a wide region. In this respect it has been compared with the sea ; but it can only suffer in the comparison ; it has neither the move- ment nor the capacity of the ocean. Specimens of the real log-hut, with its proper accom- paniments, were beginning to appear. It is composed of stems of timber unbarked, and in their rough state, of from six to nine inches in diameter. These are notched at the extremities to receive each other, and are laid on till they get ten or twelve feet above the ground ; they then shoot of loose b kept in its to those a] apart. Tl show a do( a projectic from the I of lath, an instantly k best specii they are 1 find any t cottage ? These ] erection, a as an ass worth abo may get a railed fenc Most of Germans, lies, who enjjaged i for the w of house passed oi another t judge. But tb It now ap tall, magi appointed larger foi was no p ever, to it arise rep*dily 1: combinat LOO-HUTS. 103 le midat family, carriage on here, re three ir Geog- ice; the ted, and ght had )land; I i was in : abroad, ere now and the ow, con- ■den you they are !onceive, first im- d. The }ng; but wet and , coarse, coloured narigold, e a little m other- t, it may In this ut it can le move- • accom- posed of state, of notched ' laid on d; they then shoot off to form the gables. The roof is composed of loose boarding (not amounting to shingle), and it is kept in its place against wind and rain by stems, similar to those already used, laid lengthwise, at about two feet apart. They conunonly afford two small rooms, and show a door and window in front. At one end there is a projection for a fireplace ; it is carried up distinctly from the base, and is mostly constructed of a rude sort of lath, and coated with clay. In case of fire it can be instantly knocked down, so as to save the cottage. The best specimens do not look amiss in the picture, although they are far behind Switzerland. But where shall we find any thing of its class so picturesque as the Swiss cottage T $ These huts, such as I have described, cost, in the erection, about twenty-eight dollars. Let me also add as an assistance to your judgment, that land here ia worth about two dollars and a half per acre ; and you may get a piece of five acres cleared, and a good eight- railed fence round it, for forty dollars. Most of the recent settlers along this road seem to be Germans. We passed a little settlement of eight fami- lies, who had arrived this season. They were busily engaged in clearing their land and getting up a shelter for the winter. The log-house is the only description of house in these new and scattered settlements. I passed one occupied by a doctor of medicine ; and another tenanted by two bachelors, one of them being a judge. But the most interesting sight to me was the loresf . It now appeared in all its pristine state and grandeur, tall, magnificent, boundless. I had been somewhat dis- appointed in not finding vegetation develop itself in larger forms in New-England than with us ; but there was no place for disappointment here. I shall fail, how- ever, tc give you the impression it makes on one. Did it arise from height, or figure, or grouping, it might readily be conveyed to you ; but it arises chiefly from combination. You must see it in all its stages of growth* : i! :"■ ' I ,f - X 104 THE FOREST. decay, dissolution, and regeneration; you must see it pressing on you and overshadowing you by its silent forms, and at other times spreading itself before you, like a natural park ; you must see that all the clearances made by the human hand bear no higher relation to it than does a mountain to the globe ; you must travel in it in solitariness, hour after hour, and day after day, fre- quently gazing on it with solemn delight, and occasion- ally casting the eye round in search of some pause, some end, without finding any, before you can fully understand the impression. Men say there is nothing in America to give you the sense of antiquity ; and they mean that as there are no works of art to produce this effect, there can be nothing else. You cannot think that I would de- preciate what they mean to extol ; but I hope you will sympathize with me, when I say that I have met with nothing among the most venerable forms of art, which impresses you so thoroughly with the idea of indefinite distance and endless continuity ; of antiquity shrouded in all its mystery of solitude, illimitable and eternal. The clearances, too, which appeared in this ride, were on so small a scale as to strengthen this impres- sion, and to convey distinct impressions of their own. On them the vast trees of the forest had been girdled to prevent the foUage from appearing to overshadow the ground ; and the land at their feet was grubbed up and sown with corn, which was expanding on the sur- face in all its luxuriance. The thin stems of Indian corn were strangely contrasted with the huge trunks of the pine and oak, and the verdant surface below was as strangely opposed to the skeleton trees towering abo%'e, spreading out their leafless arms to the warm sun and the refreshing rains, and doing it in vain. Life and deso- lation were never brought closer together. It appeared, in this morning ride, that the storm which passed over Sandusky had spent its power chiefly on this road. I passed by a spot where it had been very destructive. A man had been killed by the lightning, (uid two cottages crushed by the falling timber. A road i crossmg and alonj This vari you in su( dense and of their which the: crashing, { yuu surpri The st< dangerous danger, different s wind, and avalanche About n an inn, wh very early indisposed was told wanted, thing read] time ; but was ham £ for frying ; There remi these I ma While h tiers, passi taken the f for him, an time. Sh( bore the cc arm. This or of the I Here ah to the "Fi fanatics; s ting the E STORM IN THE FOREST. 105 I i some crossing ours was entirely stopped by the fallen trees ; and along our course they were lying great in ruin. This variety in the scene has a surprising effect upon you in such circumstances. In travelling through these dense and elevated forests, you are awed by a deep sense of their power and majesty ; but here was a Power, to which their resistance was as nothing, that struck them, crashing, groaning, to the ground. Like Niagara, it puts you surprisingly near to Deity. The storm in the forest is not only* awful; it is very dangerous. Even in a full wind there is considerable danger. A great portion of the trees are always in different stages of decay. They creak and groan in the wind, and with every gust they come dashing, like the avalanche to the earth. About noon we arrived at a little town, and stopped at an inn, which was announced as the dining-place. My very early breakfast, and my violent exercise, had not indisposed me for dinner. But when I inquired for it, I was told that none was prepared, as it was not often wanted. This was modified by an offer to " get some- thing ready," which I willingly accepted. It took some time ; but it was a very poor affair. The chief dish was hain fried in butter — originally hard, and the harder for frying ; I tried to get my teeth through it, and failed. There remained bread, cheese, and cranberries ; and of these I made my repast. While here, a German woman, one of the recent set- tlers, passed by on her way home. Her husband had taken the fever and died. She had come to buy a^ cofiin for him, and other articles of domestic use at the same time. She was now walking home beside the man who bore the coffin ; and with her other purchases under her arm. This was a sad specimen either of German phlegm, or of the hardening effect of poverty. Here also was a set of Mormonites, passing through to the " Far West." They are among the most deluded fanatics ; and profens to be obeying a prophecy, in quit- ting the East, and seeking their millennium beyond the E 3 106 STAGECOACH. .' i I Mississippi. A gentleman inquired of one of them, why they left their own country ? " 0," he said, " there is ruin coming on it." — " How do you know 1" — " It was revealed to him." — " How was it revealed to you ?" — " I saw five letters in the sky." — " Indeed ! what were they 1" — " F A M I N," was the reply ; a reply which created much ridicule, and some profanity. We now took in three persons who were going on to Marion. I had the benefit of a better balanced coach ; but this was all the advantage arising from the change. One was a colonel ; though in mind, manners, and ap- pearance, among the plainest of men. Another was a lawyer and magistrate ; and the third was a considerable farmer. All of them, by their station and avocations, ought to have been gentlemen ; but, if just terms are to be applied to them, they must be the opposite of this. To me, they were always civil ; but among themselves they were evidently accustomed to blasphemous and corrupt conversation. The colonel, who had admitted himself to be a Methodist, was the best, and sought to impose restraints on himself and companions; but he gamed very little credit for them. I was much grieved and disappointed, for I had met with nothing so bad. What I had witnessed at Sandusky was from a different and lower class of persons ; but here were the first three men in respectable life with whom I had met in this State ; and these put promiscuously before me — and all bad. It was necessary to guard against a hasty and prejudiced conclusion. On reaching Marion I was released from my unpleas- ant companions. I had to travel through most of the night, but no refreshment was provided. I joined in a meal, that was nearly closed by another party, and pre* pared to go forward at the call of the driver. I soon found I was to be in different circumstances. We were nine persons, and a child, within. Of course, after having been tossed about in an empty coach all day, like a boat on the ocean, I was not unwilling to have the pospect of sitting steadily in my comer ; but when I got fairly seat, and out my bi there wei road was come for clination, hill ; the 1 too, thoug objectiona! There ^ daughter, sation. S the stage, freely on judge's lai it in brokei broken, j to be gettii was not di to mamms struck up home." \ yet none \ as a point tionably n At near I was proi that prom freshment manded ( daughter There wa that xshe proper tr< gained w could nai I was dressing DELAWARE. 107 got fairly pinned in — sides, knees, and feet — the hard seat, and the harder ribs of the coach, began to search out my bruises, and I was still a sufferer. However, there were now some qualifying considerations. The road was improving, and with it the scenery. I had come for fifty miles over a dead flat, with only one in- clination, and that not greater than the pitch of Ludgate- hill ; the land was now finely undulated. My company, too, though there was something too much of it, was not objectionable ; some of it was pleasing. There were among them, the lady of a judge and her daughter. The mother was affable and fond of convert sation. She was glad we had such agreeable society in the stage, as " that did not always happen." She talked freely on many subjects, and sometimes, as became a judge's lady, of refinement and education ; but she did it in broken grammar, and in happy ignorance that it was broken. As the night shut in, and her daughter appeared to be getting drowsy, she challenged her to sing. Mary was not disposed to comply. It made little difference to mamma ; for she, without the least embarrassment, struck up and sang off, very fairly, " Home, sweet home." This was all unasked, and before strangers ; yet none were surprised but myself. I name this merely as a point of manners. The lady herself was unques- tionably modest, intelligent, and, as I think, pious. At nearly one o'clock, we arrived at Delaware. Here I was promised a night's rest. You shall judge whether that promise was kept or broken. There was no re- freshment of any kind prepared or offered, so we de- manded our lights to retire. The judge's lady and daughter were shown into a closet, called a room. There was no fastening to the door, and she protested that Nshe would not use it. I insisted that it was not proper treatment. All the amendment that could be gained was a proposition "to fetch a nail, and she could nail herself in, and be snug enough." I was shown into a similar closet. There were tio dressing accommodations. I required them, and was I i h i 108 COLUMBUS. told that those things were in common below. I refused to use them ; and at length, by showing a little Armness and a little kindness, obtained soap, bowl, and towel. I dressed. By this time it was nearly two o^clock. I was to be called at half past two ; and I threw myself on the bed to try to sleep, with the soothing impression that I must awake in half an hour. At half past two I was summoned ; and having put myself in readiness, and paid for a night's lodging, I was again on my way. The day broke on us pleasantly, and the country was very beautiful. We forded the Whet- stone, a lively river, which ornamented the ride; wc passed through Worthington, a smart town, prettily placed, and having a good college ; and arrived at Colum- bus, the capital, at nine o'clock. LETTER XI. My OEA.R Friend, Columbus has a good location in the heart of the State ; it contains about 4,000 persons, and is in a very advancing condition. This indeed is true of all the settlements in this State ; and you will hardly think it can be otherwise, when I inform you, that forty years ago there were only 500 persons in the whole territory, and that now there are above a million. The inn at which we stopped is the rendezvbus of the stages. Among others there were two ready to start for Cincinnati. Our coach, by arriving at nine instead of eight, deprived me of the hour which should have been given to dressing and breakfast. If I went on,- 1 must of necessity go on immediately. Time was pre- cious, and I resolved on going. On seeking to engage my place, the inquiry was, " Which will you go by, sir ; the fast slow lin quickly the mail we had In del of all th< ful thing but on a rible. I shamefu however the previ serious i or sleep, was obli all I cou times thi over aga! bouring 1 About We wer€ chance o Howevei twenty-f< could, a very sh before n It was a was onlj "Hov ess, who flies. " tovm?" house w tsettled h somethix and civil On l€ "i JEFFERSON. 109 I refused firmness owel. I :. I was 3lf on the on that I iving put %gt I was intly, and le Whet- ride ; wc prettily it Colum- rt of the n a very all the think it ears ago ory, and vous of to start instead Id have int on,. I iras pre- engage by, sir J tlie fast or the slow linel" Weary as I wan of the slow line, I exclaimed, " 0, the fast line, certainly !" I quickly found myself enclosed in a good coach, carrying the mail, and only six persons inside. In this journey we had but three. In demanding to go by the fast line, I was not aware of all the effects of my choice. It is certainly a delight- ful thing to move with some rapidity over a good road, but on a bad road, with stubborn springs, it is really ter- rible. For many miles out of Columbus the road is shamefully bad ; and as our horses were kept on a trot, however slow, I was not only tumbled and shaken as on the previous day, but so jarred and jolted as to threaten serious mischief. Instead, therefore, of finding a lounge, or sleep, as I had hoped, in this comfortable coachf I was obliged to be on the alert for every jerk ; and after all I could do, my teeth were jarred, my hat was many times thrown from my head, and all my bruises bruised over again. It was really an amu!«ement to see us la- bouring to keep our places. About noon we paused at the town called Jefferson. We were to wait half an hour ; there would be no other chance of dinner ; but there were no signs of dinner here. However, I l»d been on very short supplies for the last twenty-four hours, and considered it my duty to eat if I could. I applied to the good woman of the inn ; and in a very short time, she placed venison, fruit-tarts, and tea, before me ; all very clean, and the venison excellent. It was a refreshing repast, and the demand on my purse was only twenty-five cents. " How long have you been here V I said to my host- ess, who stood by me fanning the dishes to keep off the fiies. '' Only came last fall, sir." " How old is this tovm ?" " Twenty-three months, sir ; then the first house was built." There are now about 500 persons tBettled here ; and there are three good hotels. There is something very striking in these rapid movements of life and civilization in the heart of the forest. On leaving Jefferson, we plunged again into the 10 I ^ > no THE FOREST. forest ; and towards evening we got on the greensward, or natural road. This was mostly good and uncut ; and we bowled along in serpentine hnes, so as to clear the stumps with much freedom. The scenery now, even for the forest, was becoming unusually grand. It repeated' ly broke away from you, so as to accumulate the objects in the picture, and to furnish all the beauties of lijirht, sliade, and perspective. The trees, too, were mostly oak, and of the finest growth. Their noble stems ran up some hundred feet above you, and were beautifully feath- ered with verdant foliage. There, they ran off in the distance, park-like, but grander far, in admirable group- ing, forming avenues, galleries, and recesses, redolent with solemn loveliness ; and here, they stood before you like the thousand pillars of one vast imperishable temple for the worship of the Great Invisible. Well might our stout forefathers choose the primitive forests for t^eir sanctuaries. All that art has done in our finest Gothic structures is but a poor, poor imitation ! I passed, in this day^s ride, the Yellow Springs, and Springfield. The former is a watering-place. There is a fine spring of chalybeate waters ; and an establishment capable of receiving from 150 to 200 visiters; it is re- sorted to for the purposes of health, Imnting, and fish- ing. Springfield is a fiourishing town, built among the handsome hills that abound in this vicinity. It is one of the cleanest, brightest, and most inviting that I have seen. But all the habitations of man were as nothing compared with the forest. I had been travelling through it for two days and nights, and still it was the same. Now you came to a woodman's hut in the solitudes ; now to a farm ; and now to a village, by courtesy called a town or a city ; but it was still the forest. You drove on for miles through it unbroken ; then you camr' to a small clearance and a young settlement ; a' < i' < . , un you plunged into the wide, everlasting fore^u, lo be with nature and with God. This night I had also to travel, and, weary as I was, I was kept quite on the alert. I had longed to witness a storm i my antic night can firefly ap to flash fl moving fi of the sk canopy bright, no centrf imm' ns wi(h j^rei prodtgit snnding idtion. 1 margin n forked lig the thunr pealed th unbroken burst for the gian deep fore storm, su God's oy see so m mirable ( It cea bore the fly, whic and sparl ently th nantly oi The e iing serii at Lebai to sickei lonelines halted hi STORM AT NIOHT. Ill lensward, icut ; and clear the even for repeated- le objects of li;B:ht. I mostly ns ran up lly feath- flr in the ) group- redolent I fore you e temple light oui for their t Gothic ngs, and There is lishment it is re- ind iish- tong the t is one I have nothing through e same, ditudes ; called a Ml drove me to a Ji c'.,vin be with I I was, witness a storm in the forest, and this was to happen (*arlior than my anticip iiions. The day had beo/t hot, bui fine ; the night came on sultry, close, and silent. The bcHutuful firefly appeared in abundance; suniinor iigbtnu '^ began to flash across the heavens. All this iime cIoudH w^re moving from every part of the circumference to the centre of the sky. At length they formed a heavy, dense, black cartopy over our heads, leaving the horizon clear and bright. The lightnings, which at first seemed to have no centre, had now consolidated their forces behind this immms^ ' .^vid, .vnd were playing round its whole circle wi(h ^reat magnificence and briUiancy. Continually the prodigio i^ cloud was getting larger and darker, and de- ^>^onding nearer to us, so as powerfully to awaken expec- tation. The splendid coruscations which played round its margin now ceased, and all was still. In an instant the forked lightning broke from the very centre of the cloud ; the thunder, deep and loud, shook the earth, and rolled and pealed through the heavens ; the heavy rain dashed in unbroken channels to the ground ; and the mighty winds burst forth in their fury, and roared and groaned among the giant trees of the wood. There were we, in the deep forest and in the deep night, and in the midst of a storm, such as I had never witnessed. O it was grand ! God's own voice in God's own temple ! Never did I see so much of the poetic truth and beauty of that ad- mirable ode, " The voice of the Lord," &c. It ceased as suddenly as it began. The winds, which bore the cloud away, left all behind calm ; and the fire- fly, which had been eclipsed or affrighted, reappeared, and sparkled over us on the profound darkness ; and pres- ently the stars of a higher sphere looked forth benig- nantly on the lower elements, and all was peace. The jarly morning found me still travelling, and get- ting seriously unwell. I thought I must have remained at Lebanon, a town about twenty miles from Cincinnati, to sicken and suffer without a friend ; and then all the loneliness of my situation came over me. The stage halted here an hour ; this allowed me some time to re- I ' ! I ■ i : ! . 212 CINCINNATI. cover ; and I resolved, if it was possible^ to go forward to what I might regard as a resting-place. Happily, every thing was now improving. The road was not unworthy of M'Adam ; and we bowled over it at the rate of nine miles an hour. The country was cover- ed with hills, finely wooded, and all about them were spread farms, in a handsonve and thriving state of cultiva- tion Many ornamental cottages now appeared, and the who. suburbs put on a cheerful and beautiful aspect ; so that, when you were expecting to reach the extremity of civilized life, every thing was rising into higher civi- lization. At last we drove into the western metropolis. I had travelled three days and . nights ; and was so wearied, bruised, and hurt, that I could not, with com- fort, sit, lie, or walk. The remainder of this day I spent in my chamber. Cincinnati is really worthy to be styled a city ; and it is a city " born in a day, and in the wilderness." It has a population of 30,000 persons, arid is not more than thirty-six years old. Its streets are composed of trans- verse lines, and are named a good deal after the manne; of Philadelphia, but it has- none of its formal aspect. The straight lines are broken by the undulating surface of the ground ; the aurrounding hills stand up beautifully at the head ot all the streets ; and the Ohio runs off fine- ly at its feet. There are several good streets; some en- livened by business, and others ornamented by comfort- able dwellings and the spreading acacia ; but there are no very striking objects. Some of the churches are good, but not remarkable^ except the old Presbyterian Church in the main street,, which is large and Butch-built, with a bsick face, with two brick towers projecting on it, which towers have turrets as heavy as themselves, and which turrets are chiefly remarkable for two dials which exactly agree. When I saw them they both wanted three minutes to six, and I doubt not if I could see them now they still want just three minutes to six. Besides this, there is, as it is called,. **Trollope's Folly,." an erection in, wliich that lady, thi tainly d number it should Tempers heve the While fell in w disposal, reception ing that '. posed th two mile well as 1 myself o guest of It hapj anniversa day kept portunity evening g of firearn young me miniature platform. an Oratio Thegr to meet, join in a cedence, no easy a on this SI them. 1 the coope porary sti at their b so emplo; they mad sixty in i FOURTH OF JULY. 113 lady, thus complimented, exhausted her means, and cer- tainly did not show her taste. I was struck by the number of barbers' shops and groceries, or grogshops ; it should seem that no man here shaves himself, and that Temperance has not yet fulfilled its commission. I be- heve there are not less than 200 grogstores in Cincinnati. While I was seeking for my friend, Mr. Brainard, I fell in with Dr. Beecher, who insisted on my being at his disposal, and immediately found for me a very friendly reception in a family resident in the town ; but consider- ing that I should have a better chance of health, he pro- posed that I should go with him to the Walnut Hills, two miles distant. For the reason kindly named, as well as for the pleasure of enjoying his society, I availed myself of the proposal, and became, during my stay, the guest of his family. It happened that I was here on the 4th of July, the anniversary of the Independence ; almost the only holy- day kept in America ; and I was glad to have a good op- portunity of witnessing its observance. The previous evening gave note of preparation by the continued report of firearms and small guns. In the early morning the young men met at the Mechanics' Institute, to enact in miniature what their fathers were to perform on a larger platform. There was an Ode, and the Declaration, and an Oration, and Yankee Doodle. The grand fete came afterward. All the trades were to meet, and go in procession to the Fourth Church, to join in a semi-religious service. The question of pre- cedence, however, here as elsewhere, is found to be of no easy solution ; and some of the companies, in dudgeon on this subject, had refused to take the place assigned to them. There were the butchers, and the carpenters, and the coopers, and few besides. The coopers had a tem- porary stage, and as they were drawn along they wrought at their business. The butchers, who could not well be so employed, were at liberty to display themselves, and they mad^^e most of it in their way. They were full sixty in number, and were all mounted on good steedf . 10* 1 I 114 FOtRTH OF SVLY. ■ ■ hi- Some decorations were given to the horse, but lam.y more to the man. It was a sight, to see these men dressed out in purple and fine linen. They all had fine frocks on, some muslin ; ornamented by silk sash, and scarf, and rosettes. These, with the usual accompani< ments of a band' of music, and showy colours waving in the air, with the insignia of the company on them, to- gether with the hoiyday dresses of the spectators wha lined the pathway, composed the exhibition, and gave it a cheerful character. As the service was to be at Dr. Beecher's church, he was the chaplain for the occasion. I went with him ta secure a good' sitting ; but declined going into the pulpit, or engaging in the exercise, for obvious reasons. The spectacle wais singular for a place of worship. There were in th« pulpit, the chaplain, the reader of the Dec- laration in a fustian jacket, and the oiaXor. On their tight and left were seated the ensigns, bearing the nation- al colours ; and beyond these were resting the flags of the several trades. The companies occupied a large portion of the area, and the band possessed the gallery. The ehurch was quite full. A national air was played by the band. An ode was then sung by the choir, sustained by instruments. Dr, Beecher offered prayer. Then came the Declaration. It was read by a tradesman, who looked intelligent ; but he read badly, and what was worse, rather bitterly ; and m trying to give those terms which hit the Father Land a hard and angry expression, he contorted his face so as to be very ridiculous. Another ode followed. Then the Oration. It was written ; but freely delivered. It showed good parts, manly thinking, and was, on the whole, composed in good taste. There was a reference to the past ; a tribute to our common fathers ; a eulogy on the constitution ; a warning on the danger of disunibn, on the one hand, and consolidation on the other ; and, finally, an apostrophe to La Fayette. It was national, but not prejudiced. Dr. Beecher admitted that they seldom, on these occasioned, had any thing so good. The POtTRTlI OF JULV. U& lese men had fine sash, and icompani* vaving in them, to- tors who- i gave it lurch, he th him ta he pulpit, IS. The . There the Dec- On their le nation* gs of the e portion y. The ode wa» its. Dr. ;laration. ent; but rly ; and ler Land ce so as . Then red. It on the bference eulogy isunibn, ir; and, lational, at they d. The Ode, " Glory to God on high," &c., the music by Mozart, followed, and the exercises closed by a short prayer. There was in the novelty of this service some gratifi' cation ; and in its substance, I found no cause of offence. For the Declaration, I knew its contents, and prepared my nerves for invectives which were, perhaps, natural at the time they were written ; and for my good friend, Mr. Churchman, the reader, I could not smile and be unkind I confess, to speak seriously, and to give you, as I al- ways seek to do, first impressions, I was somewhat start- led at the extraordinary mixture of the secular and the spiritual ; and it was a question whether the tendency was not to make religion worldly, rather than the world- ly religious. But when I reflect on the improved char- acter given to these occasions by not abandoning them to the irreligious, I am disposed to think that the ministers and friends of religion are acting a wise part in employ- ing that degree of influence which they can legitimately exert in its favour. Nor if one could have all one wished, would I desire, as some do, to make the exer- cises of such a day purely religious. Our true wisdom, in consulting the good of the people, lies, not in exclu- ding their secular concerns and pleasures from religion, but in diffusing religion through the whole of them. There is one thing, however, that may justly claim the calm consideration of a great and generous people. Now th&t half a century has passed away, is it necessary to the pleasures of this day to revive feelings in the children which, if they were found in the parent, were to be ex- cused only by the extremities to which they were press- ed 1 Is it generous, now that they have achieved the victory, not to forgive the adversary ? Is it manly, now that they have nothing to fear from Britain, to indulge in expressions of hate and vindictiveness, which are the proper language of fear ? Would there be less patriotism because there was more charity ? America should feel that her destinies are high and peculiar. She should ■corn the patriotism which cherishes the love of one's own country by the hatred of all others. This would be f T 116 LANE SEMINARY. \ -\X to forego her vocation ; and to follow vicious examples, which have already filled the world with war and blood- shed. She should carry out her sympathy to all men, and become the resolved and noble advocate of universal freedom and universal peace. O, how would the birth- day of her own Uberties be hallowed and blessed if it were devoted with wisdom and ardour to such an issue ! On the day succeeding the anniversary I was taken unwell, and confined to the house for three days. My journey might have accounted for this ; but I ascribe it also, in a measure, to the atmosphere. This city, from all appearances, ought to be very healthy ; there is rea- son, however, to think that the immense forest prepares for it a peculiar atmosphere, which, at this season of the year especially, is dangerous to strangers, and trying to all. Dr. Beecher and all his family had the fever on ar- riving here. For me, my indisposition was light, and it was made the lighter by the kind attentions of the family which had received me to its bosom, and of Dr. Drake, an excellent physician of the place, who obligingly in- sisted on my acceptance of his services. On the Monday I was so far better that I could go to town and attend an Association of Ministers. I had some interesting conveisation with them. The subject of slavery came under discussion, and I trust not unprof- itably. I afterward had considerable communications vrith Dr. Beecher on that subject ; and we agreed to re- new it, and with others, when we should meet in New- England. In the evening of this day I was to attend a concert for prayer, and to address the congregation ; but a thunder-storm came on, and prevented the service al- together. The thunder here, you must still remember, is not " our thunder," nor the lightning " our hghtning ;" and it is not less frequent than it is awful. I had been t ten days in Ohio, and this was the seventh storm. The next day I was to proceed on my way. In the morning I visited the Lane Seminary, and at the request of the professors, addressed the students. We had a pleasant devotioral exercise. There were about sixty students receive o labour in hereafter Before together, said, tha it is ; bu people, a markably about; 1, nearly al there are good siz( 30,000, may be t for the e: There with an i domestic not equa lies, and art and s a " Sciei a circula out end. and eve regard it ment. mark as old, spei know, C « Silly ? live to 1 a very i Ifth( here, ar found ii class ol SERVANTS. 117 examples, nd blood- all men, universal the birth- issed if it an issue ! ras taken lys. My iscribe it ity, from e is rea- prepares an of the trying to er on ar- it, and it le family r. Drake, ngly in- ild go to I had subject unprof- lications d to re- n New- ittend a on; but •vice al- nember, itning ;" ad been • In the request » had a It sixty students and several visiters present. The college will receive one hundred, and it is nearly full. It is a manual labour institution, and I shall refer to it in this character hereafter. Before I quit this place, let me throw a few particulars together. You may have concluded, from what I have said, that religion is in a low state here. In one sense it is ; but, when you consider the rapid increase of the people, and the character of that increase, it is in a re- markably advanced state. The population has grown at aboui; 1,000 per year; and this great influx has been nearly all of a worldly and unpromising nature. Yet there are twenty-one places of worship, and they are of good size arid well attended. When it is said that of 30,000, 4,000 are Catholics, mostly Irish CathoUcs, it may be thought, without a breach of charity, to account for the existence of many low groceries. There is a great spirit of enterprise in this town ; and, with an ardent pursuit of business, there is a desire for domestic comfort, and a thirst for scientiiic improvement, not equalled in such circumstances. They have libra- ries, and good reading societies ; they have lectures on art and science, which are well attended. They sustain a " Scientific Quarterly and a Monthly Magazine," with a circulation of 4,000 ; and they have newspapers with- out end. Education is general here ; the young people, and even the children, appear to appreciate it. They regard it as the certain and necessary means of advance- ment. I overheard two fine children, in the street, re- mark as follows. The younger one, about nine years old, speaking of her sister, said, with concern, " Do you know, Caroline says she will not go to school any more !'* " Silly girl !" replied the elder, about thirteen ; " she will live to repent of that !" It must be admitted that this is a very wholesome state of feeling. If there be a real inconvenience in the state of society here, and throughout this region, it is undoubtedly to be found in the want of good servants. There is no such class of servants as there is in Europe. If any give I ^' i 118 SERVANTS. 1 1- i Mi themselves to it, they consider it is only for a short time ; all this short time they are disposed to scorn the duties of their vocation, and are eagerly looking to something better. Hence it is that there are few servants ; that they demand high wages; that they afford but little *' help," and give less satisfaction. Two dollars a week are commonly given here for a female help ; and a lady of this city told me that, in twelve months, ten persons were in one situation. It was not uncommon for them to disappear from the family either in the early morning or the evening, without the least notice. On these ac- counts, the mistress of the family does more than with us ; and establishments that would seem to require three servants, a^-e often found only with one. Much has been said, and with some ill-nature, on the circumstances of the servants claiming to sit at the same table with the family. It should be observed, in the first place, that this is no more true of the principal towns and cities of America, where wealth and occupation have created distinctions of classes, than it is with ourselves ; and that it should occur in the newly-settled and farming districts, where all are of one class, cannot be deemed remarkable, unless we unwisely judge of it through the prejudiced medium of our own conventional habits. If a young woman engages herself to help a tradesman's wife, she is the daughter of a man who lives on his own farm in the vicinity, and who is equal to the tradesman. The only difference is, the one has land, and the other ready money ; and the girl seeks to obtain some money, either to improve her education or her dress, or, as she hopes, perhaps, to prepare for her wedding. If a youth engages to work at a farm, he is most likely the son of a neighbouring farmer, who has more children than the one who engages him, and he is equal with the family he enters, both in rank and in employment. Would it not be absurd, in such a state of society, when equality pre- vails in every other particular, to create, at the social board, an invidious and artificial distinction ? We all re- member the time when, with real distinctions between master place i we ma of eith As, may a occur rapid those w anti-Pr( so desi erected There ment. Some religious Zanesvi and it second GranvilL religious made by On arrivi that they in the w first, they the first for divin pious ma and there 1,000 do] man, whc of fire-ir( dollars a is a devo flock. S might be He meet for instri GRANVILLE. 119 kort time ; he duties omething nts ; that but little s a week id a lady L persons for them ' morning these ac- ;han with uire three re, on the the same n the first owns and tion have mrselves ; id farming e deemed rough the bits. If idesman's his own adesman. the other money, , as she a youth le son of than the "amily he d it not ility pre- le social Ve all re- between master and man, the servants on our farms claimed their place in the comman hall, and at the common table ; and we may well question whether the interests or happiness of either party have been advanced since the alteration. As, in leaving this city, I shall also leave the State, I may as well set down any closing observations that occur to me. There are in Ohio, notwithstanding its rapid progress, not less than 500 ministers ; excepting those who may, in different places, advocate heretical or anti-Protestant opinions. The people, in many parts, are so desirous of the means of religion, that they have erected the little church, and have to wait for the pastor. There are, at least, iwenty places now in this predica> ment. Some of the new-made towns present a delightfully religious aspect. Of these I might name Columbus, Zanesville, and Granville. The first has 3,000 persons, and it has three churches and five ministers. The second has 3,200 persons, and six churches. And Granville is a small town, which, I believe, is wholly religious. As a settlement, it deserves notice. It was made by a party of ninety persons from New-England. On arriving at this spot, they gave themselves to prayer, that they might be directed in choosing their resting-place in the wilderness, and enjoy the blessing of God. At first, they rested with their little ones in the wagons ; and the first permanent building they erected was a church for divine worship. The people retv-iu the simple and pious manners of their fathers. They all go to church, and there are 400 in a state of communion. They give 1,000 dollars a year to religious institutions. One plain man, who has never allowed himself the luxury of a set of fire-irons, besides what he does at home, gives 100 dollars a year to religious objects. The present pastor is a devoted man, and very prosperous in the care of his flock. Some of his little methods are peculiar, and might be either objectionable or impracticable elsewhere. He meets his people in districts, once a week, in turn, for instruction. He keeps an alphabetical list of the II f-i 120 SAIL TO LOUISVILLE. members ; and places each name opposite a day of the month throughout the year; and on that day all the church are to pray for that member. He has overseers in the districts, who are to make an entry of all points of conduct, under separate heads, during the year ; and to furnish a full report to him at its close. This report, and the names of the parties, he reads from the pulpit, with rebuke or commendation, and the year begins afresh. Every one knows, therefore, that he is subject to report; and, in a small community, where there is neither power nor will to resist, it must act as a strong restraint. Of course, the drunkard, the fornicator, the Sabbath-breaker, are not found here ; and, what is yet better, on the last report there was only one family that had not domestic worship. LETTER XII. Mv DEAR Friend, After meeting the students and professors of Lane Seminary, on the morning of the 8th of July, I went to town with Dr. Beecher, in search of a boat to Louisville. There are usually ten or twelve steamboats lying off the quay ; and there was one that would start in the after- noon. I caught a dinner at a hospitable table, took leave of my kind friends, and went on board. These vessels are well adapted to the rivers they have to navi- gate ; and mostly offer more accommodations to the pas- senger than can be granted when exposed to more troubled waters. The cabins being erected above the hulk of the vessel, is a decided advantage in light and ventilation ; and especially valuable in the hot seasons, as no places are so hot as the bosoms of these rivers. I had a nice little state-room to myself, with lock and key ; and our company was small, and none of it dis- LoriSVILLE. 121 lay of the ly all the overseers all points ^ear ; and his report, the pulpit, ar begins is subject e there is s a strong icator, the irhat is yet family that rs of Lane I went to Louisville, ing off the the after- able, took 1. These re to navi- :o the pas- [ to more above the 1 light and )t seasons, > rivers. 1 lock and i of it dis- agreeable. But there were some deductions. The weather was very hot, ranging from 90^^ to 94°. The cholera had prevailed, and raged in some places on these rivers, and had caused them to be nearly deserted. The disease was certainly in Cincinnati, and the apprehension of it was evidently on most of the passengers. Our vessel, which in ordinary circumstances would, I sup- pose, have carried some 150 persons, now had only seven ; one of the seven was a lady, and she sickened from fear. Depression and nausea still attended me ; but, as the evening was fine and the temperature not so high, I sat out on the deck, and did pretty well. I had now a fair sight of the Ohio ; and it is worthy, fully worthy, of its French name. La Belle Riviere. It has a quick current, and is subject to great variations. It will rise and fall from forty to sixty feet. Where the eye is shut up to a near view, its precipitous and rugged banks, its turbid waters, its abundant driftwood, its up- rooted trees, and its dark, over-hanging forests, give to it an air of desolate grandeur. But, more frequently here, it runs in serpentine Unes ; appears to the sight a suc- cession of beautiful small lakes ; spreads open before you the distant prospects, and offers to your admiration most exquisite hill and river scenery, dwelling in the brightest and softest colours. It is certainly the finest river of America. The Mississippi has more hold on the imagination, but not half so much on the eye. About noon on the following day we reached Louis- ville, having made a trip of 150 miles. I instantly found, on landing, that we had indeed entered a slave State. A man of colour had offered himself to take my luggage and guide me to the inn. He was running his light barrow before me on a rough pathway. " Remem- ber, Jacob," said a severe voice, " there are twenty-one stripes for you — twenty-one stripes, Jacob !" I asked an explanation. He said he was liable to punishment for wheeling on the path. The person who threatened him was a colonel, and I believe a magistrate ; and poot Jacob was evidently concerned at being detected by him^ Vol. I.— F 11 f I ■ 1 123 M08C1IET0 NET. t i I ' i for, he said, he owed him a grudge. I do not answer for the correctness of Jacob's statement ; I merely report what occurred. On arriving at my hotel, I found its master, Mr. Throckmorton, who is a colonel as well as a tavern- keeper, busily engaged in making and distributing his mint-julap. It is a favourite mixture of spirits, mint, sugar, and water, and he has a high character for the just incorporation of the ingredients. Others were making a free and dangerous use of iced water, a luxury which is provided in great abundance throughout the States. Indeed, the disposition to drink now became in- tense — we had only to consider how we might safely gratify it. The thermometer rose this day to 100°, and the heat and perspiration were intolerable. I was com- pelled to relieve myself of my upper garments ; to throw myself on a naked mattress ; and with the windows open, and remaining perfectly still, the perspiration rose on my skin in globes, collected in my hair, and coursed down my face and hands. The discomfort is unspeak- able. Every thing you have on feels wet ; and if you change your cravat and shirt, they become quickly like wet rags hanging about you. You wonder, at first, to see the men and boys without cravats, auu without either waistcoat or coat, and wearing rrostly white linen ; but when you really get at this temperature you understand it all. This was the hottest week we had ; many per- sons were said to have died on the public ways, and twenty-five persons died at New- York from drinking cold water. I used here, for the first time, the moscheto bar, as it is called ; and it was not before it was needed. It is a gauze-like curtain, made to enclose completely every side of the bed. I thought it would produce, in hot weather, the sense of suffocation, but this is not the effect. On the contrary, when you really know what the bite of this insect is, and hear it singing about your bed, while it is unable to reach you, you have a grateful sense of secu- rity from your enemy. On the whole, I suffered but lit- SLAVES. 123 t answer sly report ster, Mr. a tavern- uting his its, mint, 3r for the rs were a luxury hout the jcame in- ht safely 00°, Pnd vas com- to throw windows tion rose i coursed unspeak- [id if you ckly like first, to )ut either len; but derstand any per- ays; and drinking par, as it It is a ery side weather, ct. On of this hile it is of secu- i but lit- tle from this source of annoyance ; the common fly was a much greater evil, it is in such al)undance, and is so much more obtrusive. It frequently biles and settles on your person and food in a very tormenting way. The refectories, in consequence, are provided with largo fans, which are hung over the tables on pivots, and are con- nected by cords and pulleys, so that they may be worked by a little slave during the period of meals. The accommodations given to the slaves now camo under my notice. Where the family is of any consider- ation, they have usually a distinct, though attached, dwel- ling. At our hotel, they had at the end of the court- yard a large house, for they were numerous. The house, however, had but few rooms, and there were several beds in each room, so as to show that they were crowded, and that their habits of life were not very favourable to its decencies. I was struck too, perhaps the more, because I had just travelled through Ohio, with the attentions these people offer you. They are trained to do more for you than others, and they mostly do it with a readiness which shows kindness of heart. This certainly affords you personal gratification, and it is only checked when it is remembered that it is the price of liberty, or when it approaches to the tameness of sub- serviency. It became necessary for me now to determine on my course. My considerate friends at Cincinnati had re- quired a promise that I would not go farther by water. I found that to go to St. Louis, and accomplish my objects, would consume a fortnight of my time, which was more than I could spare. Besides this, I was still much indisposed, and disease was prevaihng in these regions. I determined, therefore, to quit the vicinage of the livers, and make my way across Kentucky, in an easterly direction, towards Virginia, On the following morning I left for Lexington. I in- quired when the stage would start. " O, between day- break and sunrise," was the reply. "And when is that 1"—" 0, between four and five o'clock." So that I F3 I I 124 SE^iJVVILLE. i * was obliged to be ready at four, and we did not start till half past five. The morning was cool, though the pre vious day had been so hot. I was refreshed by the air, and got ready for breakfast. Accommodations were made for us in a very primitive cabin, and in a very primitive sty.'e. Wo had, however, a large supply — milk, eggs, coffee, and hot corn-bread, and all was good and clean. The husband and wife presided at each ex- tremity of the table, making us welcome, not indeed with kind words and smiling faces, but with a considerate re- gard to our wants. Soon after breakfast we passed through Sclbyville, a stirring, busy village, at which there had recently been a considerable revival. We took in here a Mr. Frankhn, who was much disposed to conversation, and who really had much to communicate. He had been the longest settled in that region. His father came with him when a child, and was employed by Government to survey and let the land. He was shot by the Indians in the very act of surveying ; they could bear any thing better than to see the lands enclosed. He referred me also to an old man in the village, who had killed six Indians in one affray. One would think he had killed them all; for they have all disappeared, and the land is all settled and generally in good keeping. It is worth, on an average, twenty dollars an acre ; and, as he remarked, it is cheaper now than when it was bought at two dollars, considering the labour, and blood, and hazard which it had cost. The change was very great to his mind, and he delighted to dwell on it ; but it was not always with congratula- tion. Even of these primitive and rude settlers around him, he was disposed to take up the old complaint of de- generacy. "O, sir!" he would exclaim, "the men are nothing, the women nothing now to what they used to be. I can recollect when the women would do more than the men do now. Every Saturday they devoted to firing at a mark ; and they could handle a musket with the best of us." We dined at a tavern, which is also a posthouse, and is kept b much of for his pr about pol that ho I houses h tion. (/( marked, no less 1 tlie post-l connexioi throughoi Early were told morning, deemed < and I mi a less int Frankf banks of some hill plain whi the luxuri pastoral i quantity really se( have one the street sweet br frequentl; with the All th moving i commoda two scho The boy Americai the desk There w ot start till h the pre by the air, ions were in a very supply — was good I each ex- deed with derate re- byville, a ntly been Franklin, vho really le longest lim when urvey and the very etter than ilso to an ns in one 1 all; for Jttled and I average, s cheaper nsidering bad cost, delighted ngratula- s around int of de- men are r used to do more 3voted to jket with •use, and PllANKFonT. 125 is kept by " a 'squire." Tlui 'siiuiro, however, was not much of the gentleman ; he made a very sorry provision for his passengers, and blustered with them a good deal about politics. My coniparuon took occasion to remark, that ho had been put in ' »r the pur[)08C, and that post- houses had been needlessly multiplied with this inten- tion. C^ertainly the number is enormous ; and he re- marked, that between Louisville and Orleans there are no less than l5JG: you must not connect in your ideas the post-horse with tlie posthouse, for here they have no connexion. JJy-the-by, there is no auch thing as posting throughout the States. Early in the afternoon we arrived at Frankfort, and were told that we should go no further till ten the next morning. We had come fifty miles, and this was deemed excellent work. Of course I had no choice ; and I might have been called to give up a few hours to a less interesting place. Frankfort is indeed a pretty town, situated on the banks of the river Kentucky, and surrounded by hand- some hills. The erections are scattered over the small plain which is the site of the town, and are relieved by the luxuriant acacia, so as to give the whole a rural and pastoral appearance. This is greatly increased by the quantity of fine cows which are found here, and which really seem to be a part of the family. Most families have one or two, and towards evening they move about the streets like human beings, perfume the air with their sweet breath, and find their way to their resting-place, frequently through the entries of the houses, in company with the children. All the sights were not quite so rural as these. In moving about the town, I observed a fair supply of ac- commodation for religious services. There were also two schools. One was large, and for common purposes. The boys were, at the time, making a little use of their American liberties ; they were coursing, not only over the desks, a very English trick, but over the roof also. There were five windows on this side of the structure, 126 SCHOOL-HOUSE. J i \ J •- •» I ., and there was not one pane of glass unsmashed : but this was all the better, in such a climate, for the present ; and what have boys to do with the future ? Of the other school I had rather a curious notice. The shades of the evening were coming on, and as I suddenly turned the angle of a street, I saw a dark ob- ject projecting on my path from a window at a little dis- tance. I soon perceived that it was the booted leg of a human being ; and on coming nearer, I found it belonged to a pedagogue in class with some dozen youths, who, if not learning manners, were digesting Latin syntax as they could. This sort of trick is so peculiar, and so common, as to be almost an Americanism. I certainly never saw legs so strangely used as by many men in this country. To be on the fender, the jambs of the stove, the chair, the mantelpiece, is nothing ; it is, per- haps, European. These aspirants seem never satisfied till their heels are on a level with their head ; and at one hotel the feet have attained to the height of the door- way, and it is a point of serious ambition with young men to see who shall score the highest mark. This is certainly turning the world upside down, and inventing a new field of aspiration. The old strife among men has been to see who should carry his head the highest : it is now to be seen what distinction a man's heels may bring him ; and this experiment, for aught I can see, is to be made in America. In what will be the centre of this little town, there is just erected a Court-house ; and in its immediate neigh- bourhood are a number of little wooden offices for the accommodation of the lawyers who attend the court. They frequently sit out on nurses' wicker chairs, beside their offices ; and, to a perverse imagination, look like the spider waiting to in^are the silly fly. The Court-house is built of marble, in the Grecian style, with a good por- tico. As is often our own case, it shows that the archi- tect had no real taste. Where every thing is done by ancient rule, it is well ; but when a deviation is made, or the artist is left to himself, what a falling off is there ! KENTUCKY SQUEEZE. 127 shed : but e present ; lis notice. , and as I I dark ob- little dis- ci leg of a belonged iths, who, syntax as ir, and so '. certainly ly men in bs of the it is, per- r satisfied nd at one the door- ith young This is venting a men has est : it is nay bring is to be there is te neigh- for the le court, s, beside like the irt-house ood por- le archi- done by made, or s there 1 All windows were suitably kept from the portico ; but then the single door was miserably small ; and over the portico was placed a cupola in lantern fashion ! I learned that this evening there was to be, in apart- ments adjoining my inn, what is called a squeeze. Now a Kentucky squeeze is meant to correspond with a Lon- don rout ; and though not desirous to be of the party, I had some desire to know how it would be managed. Several rooms were put into a hasty state of preparation. A lady and her daughter, who were staying at the inn, were gliding about to direct the ceremonial. Articles of furniture were borrowed or hired from all quarters for the occasion ; and, in the end, there was certainly a strange medley of the new and the old, the best and the worst. Over all the many lights shed their brilliancy, and the potted flowers shed their beauty ; and the party providing were so satisfied with these arrangements, as told you that they had nothing to fear from the fastidious tastes of the visiters. The company began to assemble as I was retiring to my chamber. There were about sixty ladies and forty gentlemen present. They came with little noise, for the doors were open to receive them, and carriages they had none ; nor attendants, except the firefly, which sparkled beautifully about their path and their persons. The fol- lowing morning, I inquired of my friend Franklin if he had been. " O yes," he said, " part of the time." — "And what did you do f I continued. " Dancing, cards, and music, I suppose ?" — " O dear no ! it was quite a Presby- terian meeting, I assure you. It was all conversations and such like, as sober as possible — quite rehgious. It would not have suited me once — but now it does well enough — things are greatly altered now, and perhaps for the better. Dancing ! Why, at Selbyville you could not get a couple of girls in all the place who would run down a dance — they are all converted !" This Presbyterian meeting, however, kept rather late hours, as I learned from the return of two or three young men, who had en- 128 LEXINGTON. \4\ III gaged the room next to mine. Their noisy conversations also told me that they had come into town to attend it, and undoubtedly with no religious intentions. I proceeded, at the time specified, on my journey. We went by way of Versailles, and were seven hours in making twenty-five miles. The country, however, was interesting; the farms large and park-like, and many of them showing good cultivation. The fine clear grazing land beneath the forest-tree is a peculiarity here, and is very grateful to the eye. Generally, the best farms, in comparison with ours, want exceedingly the animation of stock. A Our passengers also supplied some entertainment. They were mostly plain persons, but of good sense and behaviour ; several of them were evidently professors of religion, and were free to converse on the subject. You meet frequently, however, with persons in these districts, who, with circumstances all against them, pique them- selves on fashionable display. A lady of this class was to go on with us, and complete the number. She wore silks, with hooped sleeves and petticoat. The difficulty was to get her into her seat ; and when in, she was liter- ally pressed into half her original dimension, with the ex- ception of a large bonnet, which still projected on the faces to her right and left. The amount of mischief was not seen till she alighted, and she then presented truly a most ludicrous figure. The wire hoops in the sleeves had been flattened and bent upwards, and looked like two broken wings ; the lower hoops had undergone a similar process, and the petticoat stood out before her as though it did not belong to her. She wa3 confused, and tried to adjust her dress, but could not ; while the spectators were not concerned to conceal their diversion. Lexington is a good town of 6,000 persons, and for situation and promise, worthy to be the metropolis of this fine State. It must, one woiUd think, be very healthy ; it is surrounded by inviting country, and abounds in com forts to its inhabitants ; yet it suffered fearfully by cholera No less was pail nineteen The scale ; grown w main str and the the whol softens city in a wealthy ; and have mon for a clination stranger At sun conclude( and somi the peop at the Cd Temperai when I a persons i moved to simply c: appeared solved or that this them wa temperan than mui When pause, a pause ; the room it lookec silent ; t and was TEMPERANCE MEETING. 129 versations attend it, ' journey. 1 hours in ever, was i many of ir grazing re, and is farms, in nation of tainment. sense and lessors of ct. You districts, |ue them- slass was She wore difficulty was liter- h the ex- on the ;hief was d truly a 3 sleeves like two a similar ts though i tried to ors were and for is of this ilthy; it in com cholera No less than 500 persons were cut off by it ; and what was painfully remarkable is, that a family, consisting of nineteen members, actually lost seventeen. The streets of this town are laid down on a large scale ; but two thirds of their width is at present over- grown with grass from the want of adequate use. The main street offers a nice promenade to the inhabitants ; and the churches. Court-house, and University, decorate the whole, while the acacia, with its abundant foliage, softens the outline, and gives to it the appearance of a city in a wood. Many of the residents here are evidently wealthy ; the people generally are bland in their manners, and have Warm and generous feelings. It is not uncom- mon for a stranger to meet with a friendly and smiling in- clination of the head as he passes, and to the heart of a stranger it is grateful. At sundown, as it is called, a bell began to toll. I concluded that there was to be a meeting of some sort and somewhere ; and as my object was to mingle with the people, I followed its voice, and soon found myself at the Court-house. It was a meeting of the friends of Temperance. There was a poor promise of attendance when I arrived ; but at last there were nearly a hundred persons assembled ; they were all men. An individual moved to the chair. He had no speaking powers, and simply called on the Secretary to read the minutes. It appeared from these that monthly meetings had been re- solved on, at which questions should be discussed ; and that this was the first meeting. The question before them was, "Whether, in the last one hundred years, in- temperance had not done more harm to the human race than murder, disease, war, and all other evils 1" VVTien the subject was thus announced, there was a pause. The chairman solicited remark. Still there was a pause ; and nothing to relieve it. The lights were few ; the room looked heavy and dull ; and those who occupied it looked heavy also and dull. All was sombre and silent; except that spitting was engaging the interval, and was so continuous as to be like rain pattering from F 3 il i REVIVAL AT LEXINGTON. rt! > h ■ I ■ ■; H. 130 the roof, and so universal as to make you feel that you must get wet. I had a man sitting next to me who kept me constantly on the look-out ; but while he often made me jump, he did me no harm. These men have surpri- sing cleverness in spirting their tobacco-juice ; and, like good drivers, they seem to have pride in showing how near they can run to an object without touching it. But to return to my company. By this time you are to understand that a worthy clergyman arose, and had the boldness to take the affirmative of the question. Another pause occurred, with the same interlude. At length a person advanced, who, by his rough manner and bad expression, I took for a mechanic of the town, de- livering himself honestly, but unused to the exercise. However, he quickly showed that he was an agent, and he made in the end a very indiscreet speech, in a most unwinning style. His statements relative to Lexington provoked some remarks. He hailed them — he hoped that he should be opposed — he delighted in it. A law- yer, of repute at the bar, spoke, but so strangely, that none could tell whether he was friend or foe. Some one expressed a fear that they should do no good without op- position ; and proposed that they should adjourn to get up an opposition ; he real' <- feared that nobody would come again without it. And so it ended. It reminded me forcibly of a manoeuvre played by one of our minor thea- tres lately. li had failed to get attention by other means ; so it gave notice, by large placards, of A Row at the Co- bourg, trusting in this as a last remedy for an empty house. A principal object with me in visiting Lexington was to become acquainted with Mr. Hall of this place, who had seen much of revivals in his own connexions, and who had lately contributed by his labours to those which had recently occurred in Cincinnati. He very kindly cornmunicated with freedom on the subject. The most considerable which he had witnessed was at Lexington about six years since. At that time vital rehgion was in a very low state, and infidelity and Unitarianism were becoming fearfully predominant among the people, H^i QS a faitl and som( was most ject of r( the admis done ? in the se meeting He took like mine surroundii It was th( citement ^ was a lar| On the the usual the occasi in a simih day, a pr o'clock th attended, and three gagement! Sabbath, ^ hardened of convic bly. Th« Monday n Thebr they weni Their ter thing was their affec and exchi for the re When people ar of less, l he left th REVIVAL AT LEXINGTON. 131 lel that you le who kept often made ave surpri- ; and, hke owing how ngit. ne you are ), and had question, flude. At cianner and town, de- ! exercise, agent, and I in a most Lexington -he hoped . A law- igely, that Some one athout op- urn to get )dy would ninded me linor thea- er means ; at the Co- 3ty house, igton was lace, who ions, and )se which ry kindly rhe most jexington )n was in ism were >le, Hei Si as a faithful pastor, felt it deeply. It happened that he and some other clergymen met in the street, and what was most on his mind became, very naturally, the sub- ject of remark. They had similar feeling, and joined in the admissions and lamentations. What was best to be done ? A camp-meeting was proposed. It was too late in the season for this. Mr. Hall advised a protracted meeting of four days. They fell in with his views. He took the sense of his people on it, and they were like minded. Steps were taken in the town and the surrounding country to give it publicity and importance. It was the first of the kind in that region, and great ex* citement was created ; and on the day of meeting there was a large influx of people. On the first day, they began at eleven o'clock, with the usual order of worship, the sermon being suited to the occasion. The afternoon and evening were occupied in a similar way, and with good effect. On the second day, a prayer-meeting was held at sunrise. At nine o'clock there was an inquiry-meeting, which was well attended. The usual services were sustained at eleven and three o'clock. The third day, much the same en- gagements, with improved effect. The fourth day, the Sabbath, was a remarkably solemn day. Many sinners, hardened in infidelity or worldliness, fell under the power of conviction, and great fear came on the whole assem- bly. The exercises closed by an inquiry-meeting on the Monday morning, which was of a very affecting nature. The brethren had this week to attend the Synod, and they went under the impressions of the recent services. Their temper was communicated to others, and every thing was dehghtfuUy interesting. The pastors renewed their affection to each other, and their covenant with God ; and exchanged pledges to retire ct a given time, to pray for the revived state of their churches. When Mr. Hall returned home, he found his own people and those of other congregations the subjects not of less, but of far greater religious anxiety than before he left them. They were earnestly desirous of another If!' !' ''' ii ;■ 132 REVIVAL AT LEXINGTON. 1 1 :f: protracted meeting, and he thought the pecuhar state of the people would justify it. Within three weeks of the time, therefore, mey held another meeting. It was con- ducted in the same manner, and by the same ministers, as on the earher occasion ; and, as might be expected, from the existing disposition of the people, with greater benefit. The total result of these meetings was, that about 500 persons made profession of religion, and were admitted, at their expiration, to different fellowships, ac- cording to their place of residence. The general effect on the town was very good. " From that time," Mr. Hall emphaticali) ^marked, " infidelity and Unitarianism broke down." h.:-. admitted, however) that some, and perhaps not a few, wlio had thus processed religion, afterward fell away ; and that since, " neither revivals, nor cholera, nor any thing, had touched them." Perhaps I had better add to this account, for the pur- pose of regulating your opinion of this revival, and of the general state of religion, a sketch of congregations in figures. There are two Presbyterian places, with about 1,200 attendants and 300 communicants. Mr. Hall's is one of these, and by far the largest. Two Baptist) with about 1,000 attendants, and 200 communi- cants; two Methodist, about 1,100 attendants, and 400 communicants; two African, Methodist and Baptist, 1,000 attendants ; one Episcopalian, about 500 attendants. I found the people at this time under some uneasiness in relation to the spread of Romanism. The partisans of that system are greatly assisted from Europe by sup- plies of money and teachers. The* teachers have usually more acquired competency than the native instructers ; and this is a temptation to parents who are seeking ac- complishments for their children, and who have a high opinion of European refinements. It appeared that out of four schools provided for the wants of the town, three were in the hands of Catholics. I heard a sermon by a young clergyman on this subject. It showed a good acquaintance with the subject, and a pious and affection- ate regard for the welfare of his flock ; but it did not THE FOREST. 133 State of ks of the was con- ninisters, ixpected, h greater vas, that and were lips, ac- "Frotn infidehty lowever, )ro^essed " neither d them." the pur- and of egations es, with ts. Mr. t. Two ommuni- and 400 St, 1,000 mts. Business •artisans by sup- usually ructers ; ing ac- > a high that out n, three an by a a good fection- did not awaken much attention. There was too much of Jove, and Minerva, and Penelope in it, and too little of point- ed appeal and Christian obligation. I had many attentions here from kind frier ds, and they would have been increased had I been able to tarry and receive them. LETTER XIII. My dear Friend, On renewing my journey, I had again to sacrifice my rest ; the coach by which I was to travel left at ten o'clock at night. But as we got on higher ground, my health was beginning to improve, and I was more able to contend with fatigue than I had been. Tovv'ards day- break we drew near Owensville. The forest, which had lately stood off in the distance, gathered round me, and demar. ied, with the confidence of an old friend, my ad- miration. Like ourselves, it was the same, and yet not the same. Every region presents you with its favourite species ; and as they approach the line of separation, the species run into each other, and place before you every variety of combination, growth, and beauty. It is one of the wonders of the forert, that wi;!' such sim- ple elements it suppli'js you with such endless variety. The kinds most prevalent now were the maple, the sugar- tree, the vine, the hickory, the beech, and the oak, in all its varieties. The first two are very abundant, and they yield large supplies of sugar to the inhabitants. Every- where you see the sugar-tree subjected to the process of tapping. This is of cour'^e done when the sap is rising in the stem ; the saccharine juice then oozes out, and running through a little wooden trough, made to project fi:om the side of the tree, it falls into a vessel below, which is placed to receive it. These molasses are very 12 ! . . 1 .1,1^ h ! ifti; I I />; :! ■? I: \ 134 OWENSVILLE. fine, and are much preferred by the people to those of the sugar-cane, Owensville, when we reached it, was full of hfe. It was market-day. The people from the country far round were present, and were busy chapping, chatting, eating, drinking. It was a picture of its kind. We paused at the inn, and I alighted for the sake of seeing the persons assembled. Those in the bar-room were men from the country, with stick or whip in hand, swing- ing on their chairs, or driving their bargains. A couple of pedlers, too, had found entrance, and were trying to obtain customers for some pictures and showy books of a very vile edition. The day was hot, and it was an excuse for drinking ; and most of them were availing themselves of this excuse by the use of eome of the many mixtures which are prepared at these bars. Here, as everywhere, mint-julap was the favourite draught ; and two of them had certainly drunk too freely. You would have been chiefly surprised to find yourself among such very plain persons ; most of whom were, nevertheless, addressed, and addressing each other, by sounding titles. Here was Captain Gray, and Colonel Ball, and Colonel — his name has slipped me — dressed in fustian, and dwelling in log-houses. But the Amer- icans, while they repudiate titles, are certainly fond of them. Nowhere do you meet with so many ; in some districts, every sixth man seems to be either captain, or colonel, or judge, or doctor. In this instance, the captain, an aged man, determined that I should not hear all and say nothing. He drew his chair nearer to mine, twirled his stick about his boot, and looking inquisitively, but with good-hum jur, said, " Well, squire ! you have travelled far, I guess ?" — ••' Yes, pretty far," I said. " You are a stranger, maybe V — " I came," I said, " from New- York." — " Ay, a Yorker, or a New-England man, I took ye for," he exclaimed, pleased with his sagacity. " Clever men be they," he continued ; " I knew ye could not be of these parts. And where be ye going V — " 1 am going," I rephed, til I JOURNEY. 135 " into Virginia ; I shall afterward return to New- York ; and I really do not know exactly wb t I shall go after- ward." I said so much, on Franklin's principle, hoping to get rid of my catechist. But I did not, as I suppose Franklin did not, wholly succeed. It is said of him, that when travelling, he would often anticipate the in- quisitiveness of the people, by answering all they might wish to know, thus — " My name is Benjamin Franldin — I am going to Boston — I came from Philadelphia — My business is so and so — My wife is with me, and three children — their names are so and so, and their ages so and so." As we advanced on our journey, we came into solitary ways ; and the land rose, and the forest thickened around us, so as to indicate that we were getting away from human habitation, and among mountain scenery. We arrived at about seven o'clock at a lone house, and were told that we were to go on at eleven. This was very provoking ; but there was no remedy. I took, therefore, my tea, which is both tea and supper here, and dressed myself, and laid down on a clean bed, to slumber till half past ten. When summoned, I was some time before I could get my eyes fairly open, and persuade myself to leave a comfortable bed, at an hour when most persons were looking towards it ; but neces- sity was on me, and I was more refreshed than I ex- pected to be. In fact, we were ascending among the mountains ; and I doubt not that the air of the higher ground was imparting renovation. By eleven at night, then, we quitted our comfortable cabin, and began to ascend the gorges of the mountains. We were only three persons : the driver, myself, and another man, who was connected with this line of stage. I had regretted that I had not daylight, to see and admire the wild and noble scenery around me ; but the night had its charms. The dark forms of the hills gathering about you ; the forest-trees doubling their immense size by their local elevation, and casting their heavy shadows on you ; the Utter absence of all signs of life and cultivation ; tho I: 136 JOURNEY. I -.■! i perfect silence which reigned unbroken, except by the rumbling of tlie coach and the bariiing of the wolves ; and the obscurity and indcfinitencss of every object on which Ihe eya fell; acted togetlicr as powerfully on the mind as ary thing I have known, and frequently left it diflicult to decide between the actual and the imaginary. While I was indulging my imagination, and had cer- tainly no sense of danger, I found that my companions in travel were under real alarm for the safety of the mail. It appeared from the driver's statement, that, twice in the past week, when he was driving the mail alone, he was threatened with attack. On one occasion, his wheel was locked by some unknown hand ; and the second time he saw two men, who had concealed themselves behind a plane-tree, which projected on the passage of the coach. This, of course, gave additional zest to our midnight ad- venture ; and I began to fear that my luggage, which was lashed behind, might disappear before morning. As we drew near to the spot where the coachman had seen the men, he was evidently much excited ; he put his horses at better speed, and made us, by exclamations, understand wh ire and how they had appeared. We gazed earnestly on ihe immense tree, and tried to penetrate "into the dark copse-wood beyond it; but no robbers were to be seen. However, we had slill the benefit of thinking that they might appear, and this gave the last touch of interest to this wild and romantic region, and kept us eflfectually from slumber and ennui. The following morning, at eleven, we arrived at a shabby house, v.hich was used as an inn. Here I broke my fast, after travelling twelve hours and fasting sixteen. There was a small settlement here, connected with some iron-works. I found the cholera had made its way into these fastnesses of nature. Two persons had died, and one was dying. I saw a man who was reported to have it, and who was avoided by every one from terror. But, in his case, the rumour was the mere effect of ignorant fear ; he had the sciatica, and no sign of the cholera. lie was very grateful that I had confidence to enter his VINE. — GUIANDOT. 137 room anrl speak with liim. He was one of those many persons who, living or dying, must chew and spit ; sick as he was, he had n mound of sand raised on the floor, on which he might indulge his propensity. The remainder of the ride to Guiandot was highly in- teresting ; but mostly such as 1 have described. The last stage was on a line with the Ohio, on a fine piece of road ; and it presented us with a change of scenery highly beautiful. The wild vine became here a prominent feature. In the thicker forests, it frequently shows a dozen or a score of large naked stems, runnrng up into the tallest trees, and quite datached from the trunk, and strangling it in its growth, leaving you to wonder how it could ever get there, and presenting rather a curious than a beautiful object of sight. But here it grew on the margin of the forest, anJ luxuriated in light and air ; and the effect was often most pleasing. It ran up the shorter trees ; used them as a mere skeleton ; covered their heads with its luxuriant foliage : and threw out its dishevelled arms and tendrils to the ground, so as to form the most inviting canopies and alcoves. Guiandot is a small but advancing town, placed at the confluence of two rivers, and forming a point of commu- nication between three States — Kentucky, Ohio, and Vir- ginia. It is itself in Virginia ; and before we enter on a new State, it may be desirable to offer a few general re- marks on that which we are quitting. From what has already been delineated, you will deem this to be an in- teresting and beautiful State, with many attractions to settlement. But it suffers as a slave-State ; many leave it for Ohio on this account ; and that State, though more remote, and of much more recent settlement, exceeds this in population by 300,000 persons. The population of Kentucky is 700,000. There are about 100 Presbyte- rian congregations ; about 300 Methodist clergymen, in- cluding local preachers ; about fifty Catholic priests ; about twelve Episcopalian ; a few Shakers ; and some other sects which, in numbers, however, are very insig- nificant. Besides these, the Baptists are very numerous. 18* li' I: 139 KENTUCKY. l: They are spoken of as having the largest number of any in this iStato ; but it is exceedingly ditHcult to ascertain their strength ; and it is yet more so to deternune on the number of their pastors ; for the oflices of minister, elder, and deacon, are made to run into each other, so as to confound distinction. Their educated teachers are very few ; their uneducated and self-constituted teachers are surprisingly numerous. In this disorganized state, Mr. Campbell came among them with his new lights ; and now nothing is heard of but Camelism, as it is called. The people of this denomination, and especially the teach- ers, had made too much of their peculiarities as Baptists. Campbell came among them and made every thing of them, and has succeeded to an alarming extent. He de- nounces everybody ; he unsettles every thing, and set- tles nothing ; and there is great present distraction and scandal. But his ministrations, I believe, will be over- ruled for good. They are of the nature of fire : they will try and consume the hay, wood, and stubble, and there was much to be consumed. The pious of the peo- ple will see their error, and rectify it ; and those of the denomination elsewhere will perceive the importance of securing to them a well-trained ministry. The colleges of pubhc instruction in this State bear a good proportion to those of other States. Besides these, so far as the ministry is concerned, something considera- ble is done. It is not uncommon, I found, for the pas- tors to receive and train young men for pastoral labour ; one minister I met with had prepared twelve ; and it was generally admitted that those who were thus pre- pared were among the most pious and successful. The University, too. which had languis^hed in infidel hands, was renewing jts strength, and promising to become a valuable focus of light, truth, and moral energy. The Medical School is now spoken of in the highest terms. JOURNEY. 139 er of any ascertain ne on tho ter, elder, , so as to I are very chers are state, Mr. rhts ; and Is called, the teach- Baptists. thing of Hede- and set- :tion and be over- ire : they bble, and f the peo- 56 of the rtance of ite bear a les these, onsidera- the pas- 1 labour ; ! ; and it thus pre- ul. The 3l hands, jecome a ry. The terms. LETTER XIV. My dear Friend, On reaching Guiandot, I determined to rest a day or two, that I might get some refreshment after my fatigue, and have time to look around nie, and preserve tho ima- ges of the things I had seen. But what we dctcrniino, and what others determine for us, are often difl'erent things. The coach proprietors here had determined that their stage should leave at three o'clock the following morning ; that none other should start for three days to come; and that then those who came on in the line would have the preference. There was literally no other mode of conveyance, so that I had no choice ; and when I found that, from the arrival of company, it was doubtful whether I could secure a place, I hastened with desire to obtain what I had deemed very objectionable. Of course, my rest, though I sought it early, was short and imperfect ; and by candle-light I found myself, half asleep, packed most tightly in the ho avy vehicle, making one of ten persons. One of these persons was indeed an infant; it had a femnle slave for its wet-nurse. It was the first time I had set'i a woman of colour act in this capacity, and I confes-s it shook a little my philoso- phy. Our company was made up of the better class ; fashionables from the south who were on their way to the springs. One was an Englishman and a merchant ; he had come out to Orleans twenty years ago, with fifteen others, and he was the only surviver. Then thiere were a captain ; a major ; a consuimptive in chase of life, which was fleeting from him ; and a reclaimed rake with his young wife, child, and servant. They supplied a good study ; but I must not detain you. On stopping to breakfast, we found our repast prepared out of doors, but in the shade, and beneath a veranda. 140 SALT-WORKS. ill 1 , n I It had a light and rural effect. Our ablutions, too, were to be performed under the same circumstances, and with utensils in common ; though you might generally have, if you claimed it, your own towel. It was considered quite enough if exceptions were made to this course in favour of ladies. Our dining station was Charleston; a thriving and pleasant town on the banks of the Kenhawa. It depends chiefly on the salt-works which abound in this neighbour- hood. The handsome Catalpa appears here, and affords the shade of its broad and thick foliage to the cottages. The scenery was evidently improving ; after dinner I took my seat outside for the sake of commanding it ; and not less to relieve myself from the heat and pressure within. We now passed the salt-works. There are not less than one hundred ; and sixty of them are in work. They bore for the water, and usually get a large supply, rising above the surface from a depth of 200 feet. It is said that as much as a million and a half of barrels are manufactured here annually. The works stretch about two miles along this beautiful valley, and greatly disfigure it. But you soon get clear of them, and the slip of land in a line with them, and along the river, is verdant with grass and corn. Every thing continues to improve. The httle plain below you disappears ; the banks of the river become sharp and bold, and are ornamented by pendent woods ; the hills get up into mountainous forms, and run out before you into the finest picture ; and as you pass them in succession, they reveal to your separate admira- tion the sweetest dells imaginable. Still, as evening came on, every thing was changed and improving. The river was becoming more animated ; its sides more ab- rupt. The hills opposite you still rose, hill after hill, in soft and lovely forms ; while those on this side of the river split away in the centre ; stood on your path ; almost refused you passage ; rose in massive, broken forms above you ; and hung beetling over your head, presenting to t]}e eye some of the finest rock-work, for shape and I KENHAWA FALLS. 141 too, were , and with ally have, ;onsidered course in iving and t depends leighbour- nd affords cottages. dinner I g it ; and pressure re are not in work, e supply, feet. It )f barrels s stretch greatly p of land lant with ve. The the river ' pendent , and run you pass i admira- evening g. The more ab- ir hill, in le of the ; almost n forms esenting ape and colour, that was ever beheld. All this was taken, for it continued long, in the last lights of day, and under the more fascinating lights of the rising moon. I must leave you to judge of the effect. I had not expected it, and 1 was quite refreshed and elevated by it. It doeth good hke a medicine. We reached the hotel at which we were to pause about midnight. It is near to the Kenhawa Falls ; and from the beauty of the neighbourhood, has many visiters. I took a hasty cup of coffee, and weary, as I was, went with anothe, gentleman to see the Falls. We could hear them in the distance ; but we had to go round in order to reach them. The chief of our way was over shattered rock, offering a good access by day, but requi- ring care at night, from the sharp pitches of some parts, and from the numerous circulai holes bored in them by the eddies of the water. They are not to be spoken of with Niagara, or even with Shauffausen, but the whole scene was striking and interesting, the more so, undoubtedly, in the still hour of night. I seated myself on a shelf of rock whence the waters made their principal leap. Dark- ness had spread its curtain on the sleeping objects in the distance. The pale moon had run her race, and was just falling behind the hills ; her last lights fell faintly on my face and the head of waters, but left the precipices and pools below me in heavy shadows. At my feet the river was dashing down, and lifting up its voice from the deeps beneath to Him who holds the waters in the hol- low of his hand. It had done so for ages past ; it would do so for ages to come. Here the po'>r Indian had stood, but will never stand again, thinking he heard in those waters the voice of Deity, and gazing on the face of that orb with wonder, till the spirit of worship was stirred within him. Here also I stood, and shall never stand again, wistfully looking through the visible and audible to the unseen but present object of adoration and praise. We returned to the inn. I had an hour and a half of rest ; and was found with my companions on the way, 1 n \ 142 THE HAWK S NEST. It soon after three o'clock. Most of the company showed that they had only been awakened, Uke a child, to be put in a new position, and their heads were nodding about in all directions. About seven o'clock, however, we ap- proached a spot which is of great reputed beauty, and we pledged the coachman to stop that we might have a fair sight of it. You leave the road by a little by-path, and after pursuing it for a short distance, the whole scene suddenly breaks upon you. But how shall I describe it ] The great charm of the whole is greatly connected with the point of sight, which is the finest imaginable. You come suddenly to a spot which is called the Hawk's Nest. It projects on the scene, and is so small as td give stand- ing to only some half dozen persons. It has on its head an old picturesque pine, and it breaks away at your feet abruptly and in perpendicular lines, to a depth of more than 200 feet. On this standing, which, by its ele- vated and detached character, affects you like the Mon- ument, the forest rises above and around you. Beneath and before you is spread a lovely valley. A peaceful river glides down it, reflecting, like a mirror, all the lights of heaven ; washes the foot of the rocks on which you are standing ; and then winds away into another valley at your right. The trees of the wood, in all their variety, stand out on the verdant bottoms, with their heads in the sun, and casting their shadows at their feet ; but so dimin- ished, as to look more like the picture of the things than the things themselves. The green hills rise on either hand and all around, and give completeness and beauty to the scene ; and beyond these appears the gray outline of the more distant mountains, bestowing grandeur to what was supremely beautiful. It is exquisite. It con- veys to you the idea of perfect solitude. The hand of man, the foot of man, seem never to have touched that valley. To you, though placed in the midst of it, it seems altogether inaccessible. You long to stroll along the margin of those sweet waters, and repose under the shad- ows of those beautiful trees ; but it looks impossible. It is solitude, but of a most soothing — not of an appalling character and folly I Most eager to s Happily fc a point of themselves stones acr( find that U' excepting grasped tin scene. The ear introductio ing the Al them. Av on the roof without dii such perfe( description as I have d and dells, a combinatioi The moi manding v: they preser the eye an you saw oi interviews ligent, nol friendly as of your lift you find al fall of day the rude h this is not elevated < two cause MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 143 my showed d, to be put ng about in ^er, we ap- aty, and we have a fair y-path, and tide scene lescribe it ] ected with ible. You iwk's Nest. give stand- has on its iTay at your a depth of , by its ele- e the Mon- Beneath A peaceful .1 the Ughts which you ther valley eir variety, ads in the so dimin- hings than on either ind beauty ay outline andeur to It con- e hand of iched that t, it seems along the • the shad- sible. It appalling character ; where sorfow might learn to forget her griefs, and folly begin to be wise and happy. Most of my companions, I am sorry to say, though eager to see this sight, had no tasie for it when seen. Happily for me, they did not choose to remain at so dizzy a point of sight as I had chosen, and so they employed themselves at a distance. Their employ was to throw stones across the river, and their astonishment was to find that no stone they could cast would reach it ! All excepting our merchant : he remained with me ; and we grasped the stunted pine, and in deep silence enjoyed the scene. The early sight of the Hawk's Nest was only a good introduction to the ride of this day. It was spent in cross- ing the Allegany mountains, and others in alliance with them. Aware of what was to come, I took my station on the roof of 1 ' 'r>ach, that I might enjoy the exhibition without disturita;>;<; , and seldom have I had a day of such perfect a^.d l.calthful exhilaration. To attempt a description of scene after scene, would only be to speak, as I have done, of rocks, and hills, and rivers, and trees, and dells, and valleys ; the elements were the same ; the combination was different — ^was endless. The mountains here do not offer you that one com- manding view which may be obtained elsewhere ; but they present you with continued pictures, which charm the eye and regale the spirits. It is not, indeed, as if you saw one human face divine, which appears, and is ffone, but will never be forgotten ; but it is as if you had interviews in succession with a multitude of faces, intel- ligent, noble, and smiling, which, by their kind and friendly aspect, made the day among the ,most pleasant of your life. In descending into the gorges of the hills, you find all that is wild, and dark, and solitary ; and at the fall of day you may hear the baying of the wolf, and see the rude huntsman go forth to encounter the bear ; still, this is not the character of these regions. It is that of elevated cheerfulness. I attribute this principally to two causes. First, that the forest is nowhere on a ■^ 144 LEWISBURG. p: I't \i 1,%: level ; it runs along the sides of the mountains in galle- ries bathed in the light of heaven, and while it towers over you on the one side, it leaves the more distant pros- pect on the other side always open to the eye. The sec- ond is, that at the feet of these majestic trees, the oak, the pine, the cedar, the beech, and the tulip, you find such an astonishing supply of the finest shrubs and flowers. The 'aurel, the sumach, the dog-wood, the rho- dodendron, the cranberry, the whortleberry, and the straw- berry ; the rose, the marigold, and^ the campanula, with a thousand wild plants and ilowers, were all here, and gave a wonderful freshness and sweetness to the scene. It has all the grandeur of the forest, v/ith all the beauty of the garden. This delightful day's ride had not the most pleasant close. We arrived at Lewisbr^rg late in the evening, and as all were more or less weary, we were eager in our in- quiries after beds. It soon appeared that the court was in session here ; and this gave us some alarm. On go- ing into the bar-room of our inn, I saw two men fast asleep in a large box, and undisturbed by all the noise of our arrival ; this was still more ominous. I hastened to require, as I always did, a single -bedded room, hardly hoping to obtain it. The landlord assured me he could not accommodate me. T begged to see what accommo- dation he could offer. He took me to a room with five or six beds in ii ; there was one bed unoccupied, which he assured me I should have to myself; the others had already an occupant each, and they were liable, if neces- sary, to have another person introduced to them. This kind of room is deemed common ; and the guest who cannot find a bed to himself, seeks to participate with some other party ; so that it is not very uncommon for the man who went quietly to sleep in sole possession of his couch, to find, on waking, that he has acquired a companion. I turned away from the spectacle, and ex- pressed my resolution to sit up till the coach started. My landlord, seeing me firm, disappeared to make some arrangements, and then returned to say that he was able WHITE SULPHTJR SPRINGS. 145 ins in galle- ile it towers distant pros- !. Tiie sec- ?es, the oak, ip, you find shrubs and ood, the; rho- id the straw- panula, with 11 here, and o the scene. 11 the beauty ost pleasant evening, and [er in our in- le court was m. On go- ro men fast 11 the noise I hastened room, hardly ne he could t accommo- m with five )ied, which others had 6, if neces- Hem. This guest who cipate with ommon for ssession of acquired a le, and ex- ch started. make some le was able to let me have a double-bedded room, if I would not ob- ject that one of my companions by the stage should oc- cupy the second bed ; I might rely on it we should have it quite to ourselves. I consented to this ; but as the good landlord was evidently much pressed, I chose to place my reliance oh having the key on the right side of the door. To such an arrangement I had been obliged t) yield twice before ; but generally, even in these unfre- quented regions, you may procure the luxury of a private rhamber. If inconveniences arose at these houses, they were, as we travelled, of very brief duration. We started again at daylight on our way to Lexington, in Virginia. Most of our company, however, were to part from the convey- ance at the White Sulphur Springs, and it was still the early morning when we reached them. These springs are finely situated, and are among the most popular in the States. The accommodations here are all provided by one person, and are chiefly composed of one erection. The rooms and refectories, which are in common, are large and imposing, but every thing else is on a most confined scale. Rumour had said, as we came along, that the place was over full ; and our party, after coming so many hundred miles, were anxious lest they should te rejected. One of them, on inquiry, found that, as a favour, he might be one of five to share a small sleeping- chamber. While many were so eager to enter this temple of health and happiness, those who had established them- selves did not impress you with the value of their acqui- sition. There were about sixty men under the verandas, picking their teeth, crossing their legs, scratching their heads, yawning, spitting ; deep in the blues, if appear- ances did not wholly deceive me. There is a good deal of gambling and dissipatior here ; and dissipation, what- ever may be its buoyancy and brilliancy at night, is a meager, and cadaverous, and chapfallen thing in the light of morning. This, too, was aggravated, for the morning was wet ; and a place devoted to gayety has, of all Vol. I.— G 13 ii 146 JOURNEY. ■M i .1' J; If: places, an air of sadness in bad weather. I was not sorry that I was going forward. I tasted the waters ; saw Mr. Clay ; and then joined the coach. We took up three passengers here, and did not im- prove by the exchange ; they were young men, and all of I" n, I fear, deeply vsrsed in sin. One, a disap- poir J. lover, and seeking his cure in dissipation ; the othe.s, of good connexions and better taught, but flippant in infidelity, disrespectful of others, and shameless for themselves. All were pursuing pleasure in the gratifi- cation of their passions, and were mortified to find them- selves still displeased and miserable. Two of them, I could learn, were a living sorrow to their parents* I made the best of my situation ; and received, at parting, an apoloe-y from one of them, who, in the midst of his fredoms, still wished to have the reputation of a gen- tleman. My attention, however, was still engaged with the de- lightful scenery ; and had the weather allowed, I should have suffered no deduction on the part of my company. We were still among the mountains, and quickly, on leav- ing the springs, began to ascend them. These are, I believe, strictly of the Allegany family ; but they are not so considerable as the Sewell mountains which we had passed. The scenery was very similar to that of yesterday ; if any thing, it is even more picturesque, and is greatly assisted in its effect by the Jackson river. The lover of nature might spend weeks here, and still lament that he had not weeks and months to spend. Early in the evening we came to a cottage which, be- cause it receives the few persons who travel this road, is called an inn. It has the appearance of a private dwelling, which is so Uttle used, that no pathway is worn to it across the verdant sod ; and you are received intc the bosom of the family with a pleasant confidence. Tb . dwelling was respectable and clean ; its fore-court made cheerful by the beautiful althea and other flowers. I secured a parlour, which had a very comfortable bed in it 7 and was gratified with the prospect of something like a night's rest. h :. t TEMPERANCE HOUSE. 147 k Tea or supper, as you choose to call it, was prepared for us. The husband and wife took the ends of the table, and the daughter waited as occasion required. All was plain ; but all was good, and there was an abundance of it; fowl, bacon, corn-bread, hot wheaten bread, bilberry-tart, honey, milk, and coffee. But the young men had a quar- rel with it. It was a temperance house, and there was no mint-julap, nor spirits, nor wine of any kind, to be had ; nor, in fact, any chance of sport or mischief. I judged horn the manners of these people that they *.vere religious, and was not deceived. I had some pleasant conversa- tion with the father ; and, on retiring to my room, found several good books in the case which adorned it ; and among them Scott's Family Bible. With a good bed, a weary body, a room to myself, and the key turned on it, I had the prospect of a refreshing sleep ; but I was to be again disappoin' "d. Just as I was sinking into unconsciousness, I was v jailed by all sorts of scratching, tumbling, squeaking noises ; which were renewed from time to time, till my summons came to join the coach. I soon found that the disturbance was in the chimney; and afterward discovered, that the whole of it, from the floor upwards, was sacred to the house-swallow, and that many hundreds had made a lodgment in it. Some of these lodgings must have been insecure, and have given way, to have created all this annoyance. I did not wish the innocent things to be dispossessed ; but perhaps I had a passing wish that their dwellings had been more lasting — were it only by a single day. We had not more than about twenty miles to reach Lexington ; hut still, as the custom is, we started very early. This distance was to be filled in mostly by the ascent and descent of the North mountain, which stands at the head of the western valley of Virginia. I was led to expect that the scenery was first-rate ; and I took my seat with a civil driver in order to command it. Every thing in the approach to this mountain is beautiful ; as you ascend it, it becomes grand ; and when you come to G3 148 THE GRAND TURN. ^ i: i! the highest parts of the passage, you have indeed a most commanding station. The morning would have been deemed unfavourable ; yet it assisted you with such a picture as you can seldom see, and as you most desire to see. The atmosphere was heavy and humid, and threat- ened rahi; but the eye could reach over the whole mountain scenery. The thick mists of the night found no sun to exhale them ; and they lay on all the valleys like a sea of sleeping waters. The breasts of the mountains rose above these mists, and appeared like so many rocky islands ; while the lighter mists, attenuated by the mountain breeze, floated gracefully about their heads. It was very peculiar and fascinating ; and re- minded me very pleasantly of my last visit to Snowden^ which at break of day was in a similar condition. I had wished that before we began our descent, the sun might rise on this world of vapours, and present to one all those bewitching forms of unearthly, aerial, and ever-changing beauty, which entranced us in Wales ; but instead of this, the mists thickened into rain, and hid much of what we had seen from our sight. Let me observe, however, that I had afterward an opportunity of seeing this noble picture in an opposite condition ; illustrated by the presence of a powerful and glorious sun. Now every thing was to be seen, and was worth seeing. The great point of sight is called the Grand Turn. It is an angular projection from the »ide of the mountain, and is supplied with a low parapet of loose stones, to protect you from the precipice below. The old jagged pine of the forest, which has braved the tempest age after age, stands up in its clustered grandeur behind you. The lone and ravenous vulture is wheeling over your head in search of prey. The broken rock- work falls away abruptly, some eighty feet immediately beneath your standing, and then runs down in softer lines to the glens below. You look to the left, and there stand, in all their majesty, the everlasting mountains, which you have traversed one by one, and sketching on the blue sky one of the finest outlines you ever beheld. THE FOREST. 149 \t^ You look to the right, and there lies expanded before you one of the richest and most lovely valleys which this vast country boasts. You look opposite to you, and the great and prominent mountains just break away so as to form the foreground to a yet more distant prospect, which is bathed in sunlight and in mist, promising to be equal to any thing you see. Everywhere, above, around, beneath, was the great, the beautiful, the interminable forest. Nothing impressed me so much as this. The forest had often surrounded and overwhelmed me ; I had never before such command of it. In a State so long settled, I had expected to see comparatively little of it ; but there it was, spreading itself all around like a dark green ocean, and on which the spots that were cleared and cultivated only stood out like sunny islets which adorned its bosom. On the whole, I had, as you will see, be<)n travelling for three days over most delightful country. For 160 miles you pass through a gallery of pictures most exqui- site, most varied, most beautiful. The ride will not suf- fer in comparison with a run along the finest portions of the Rhine, or our own drive from Shrewsbury to Bangor. It is often indeed compared with Switzerland ; but that is foolish ; the best scenery in that land is of another and a higher class. I was not at all aware that I should be thus gratified; and therefore perhaps had the more gratification. I am thankful that I have seen it ; and for the same reasons that I am thankful to have seen some- thing of the west; because they contribute greatly to form just conceptions of America. Before I dismiss this portion of my excursion, let me observe, that there is an excellent road recently cut over this mountain, and into Lexington. It embraces alto- gether an extent of forty miles, and is no small achieve- ment ; and the praise of it is due to the spirited inhabi- tants of the town. Perhaps I should not say this without referring to the share the Government takes in it. If, generally, a plan for local improvement is acceptable to the Government, it agrees to take two fifths of the res'ion- 13* 150 tEXINOTON. ^'r .1 sibility, while the residents take the remaining three fifths. The Government also receives its proportion of the profits ; and these profits replenish a fund for general improve- ment. I have frequently referred to the roads, and with complaint ; but let ir.e not be misunderstood. It is true that many of them are very bad, and bring much suffering to the traveller ; but the real wonder is, that, under all circumstances, they are so good and so numerous. Never, in any other country, was there so much done in so short a period. Rail-roads and steamboats are now come to their help, and perhaps to their salvation ; for certainly it has not been sufficiently considered, that it is a source of national weakness, and not of strength, to have a spare population scattered over an immense territory. About eleven o'clock in the day we drove into Lex* ington. Mr. Carruthers, whom I had known at the Gen- eral Assembly, saw me as we passed, and kindly followed the stage to the inn, to request that I would consider his house my home. I had travelled a week without a fair night's rest. Th^s is the great source of exhaustion here, and it is wholly the fault of the stage proprietors. With the same roads, and with the same cattle, you might go the same distance in the same time, and save all your nights ; and, of course, most of your fatigue. rn l\ ' ! i ' ' - ^'', LETTER XV. My dcar Friknd, I HAD no sooner arrived at Mr. Carruthers's than my esteemed friend, the Rev. J. Douglas, called on me. He was pastor of the Presbyterian Church here, and we had formed a friendship when he visited England as an invalid, and spent some time in my family. I now ex- pected pleasure and information in his society for a short period. As the ensuing day was the Sabbath, he very » i I ree fifths. le profits ; improve- and with It is true suffering under all 1. Never, 1 so short r come to certainly a source re a spare into Lex- the Gen- ^ followed nsider his lOut a fair tion here, •s. With might go all your than my 1 on me. e, and we md as an [ now ex- 3r a short 1, he very i SABBATH AT LEXINGTON. 161 considerately excused my preacliing, on condition that I would, on a following day, allow myself to le announced for an extra service. I was the more obliged for this, as it would supply me with an opportunity of hearing, which I always coveted. On the morning of the Sabbath, I attended an interest- ing service at my friend's church. It was placed at the head of the town, on elevated ground, commanding a pretty view of it, and of the fine blue mountains in the distance. It had a paddock attached to it for the use of the horses during the time of worship, and there were from forty to fifty now occupying it. All the persons who came in from the vicinity came on horseback ; and the horses are nearly as numerous as the people of these parts. The church has five doors, and these and all the windows were open in consequence of !he heat of the weather. This created some distraction to the congre- gation. Besides, there were fans in motion everywhere, and small kegs full of water, with ladles, wc re placed in the window-seats and beneath the pulpit, which were used by the children, not only before, but during the ser- vice, and this caught the attention of a stranger, but did not seem much to discompose the people. The galleries were mostly occupied by blacks. The general attend- ance was good ; the congregation wore a serious com- plexion ; but there were not wanting some instances of negligent and irreverent manners. A recent attempt to produce a revival here had been made by an itinerant revivalist ; but it had failed. I took pains to acquaint myself with it. My conclusion was, that it was a harsh and indiscreet affair ; not pro- ducing even the effects it sought, and working to the disadvantage of religion, both with its friends and ene- mies. This was certaiply Mr. Douglas's opinion. I learned that in the afternoon there would be worship at the African Church, and I resolved to go. My obli- ging friend, Mr. Carruthers, attended me. The building, called a church, is without the town, and placed in a hollow, 80 as to be out of sight ; it is, in the fullest 152 AFRICAN CHURCH. J . i , i sense, " without the gate." It is a poor log-house, built by the hands of the negroes, and so placed as to show that they must worship by stealth. It is, perhaps, 20 by 25 ; with boarding and rails breast-high, run round three sides, so as to form galleries. To this is added a lean-to, to take the overplus, when the fine weather should admit of larger numbers. There were three small openings, besides the door and the chinks in the build- ing, to admit light and air. The place was quite full, the women and men were arranged on opposite sides ; and although on a cold or rainy day there might have been much discomfort, the impression now was very pleasing. In the presence of a powerful sun, the whole body were in strong shadow ; and the light streaming through the warped and broken shingle on the glistening black faces of the people, filled the spectacle with ani- mation. I had taken my place by the door, and was waiting the commencement. By the law of the State, no coloured persons are per- mitted to assemble for worship, unless a white person be present and preside. On this account, the elders of Mr. Douglas's church attend in turn, that the poor people may not lose the privileges they prize. At this time, two whites and two blacks were in the pulpit. One of the blacks, addressing me as their " Strange master," begged that I would take charge of the service. I declined doing so. He gave out Dr. Watts's beautiful Psalm, " Show pity. Lord ; O Lord, forgive," &c. They all rose immedi- ately. They had no books, for they could not read ; but it was printed on their memory, and they sang it off with freedom and feeling. There is much melody in their voice ; and when they enjoy a hymn, there is a raised expression of the face, and an undulating motion of the body, keeping time with the music, which is very touch- ing. One of the elders then prayed ; and the other followed him, by reading and exposition of Scripture. The pas- sage was on relative and social duties ; and I could not avoid observing how it reflected on the conduct of the I I og-house, ccd as to , perhaps, run round 9 added a weather iree small the build- [uite full, te sides ; ght have was very ;he whole streaming Qrlistening with ani- and was » are per- person be irs of Mr. )r people ime, two ne of the " begged led doing •* Show immedi- ead ; but t off with in their a raised n of the y touch- followed The pas- :ould not :t of the i AFRICAN CHURCH. 153 ; I white, and pleaded for the poor slave. They sang again, " Come, we that love the Lord," and with equal freedom and pleasure. The senior black, who was a preacher among them, then offered prayer, and preached. His prayer was humble and devotional. In one portion of it, he made an affecting allusion to their wrongs. *' Thou knowest," said the good man, with a broken voice, " our state — that it is the meanest — that we are as mean and low as men can be. But we have sinned — we have forfeited all our rights to Thee — and we would 8ubm.t before Thee to these marks of thy displeasure." He took for the text of his sermon those wor is, " The Spirit saith, come," &c. He spoke with connex- ion uf our original distance ; of the means provided for our approach and redemption — of the invitation a.-^ founded on these — and closed by an earnest and well- sustained appeal to them to act on the gracious Invita- tion. " Ah, sirs !" he exclaimed, " do you ask, what it is to come '! Oh, it is to know your own weakness ; it is to know your own unworthiness ; it is to know that you are sinners, and ready to fall into hell for your sins ; it is to fly to Jesus Christ as your help and your Saviour ; and to cry, * Lord, save, or I perish !' — To come ! Oh, it is to fall down at his feet — to receive him as your new Master — to become new creatures — and to live a new life of faith and obedience," &c. — " O, sirs !" he con- tinued, '^ that you would come ! How can I persuade you to come ! I have seen the good and the evil. I have seen the Christian dying, and I have seen the sinner dying." He spoke of both ; and then xef. r^f^ to his own experience — the change rehgion had wir.ia in him — ^the happiness he had had since he knew it — the desire he had that they should be happy likewise. It was indeed a very earnest and efficient appeal. Mr. Carruthers kindly reminded me, as he paused, that it was time to leave, if I fulfilled my intention of going to the Presbyterian Church. But I felt I could not leave before the close. I could have done so in ordinary circumstances ; but I could not bring myself to do any G 3 154 THE BLACKS. If ' H thing that might seem disrespectful to this band of de- spised and oppressed Christians. The other man of colour followed with a spontaneous address, meant to sustain the impression. He had some conceit and forwardness in his manner, but much point in what he said. He concluded by noticing what had been doing among them lately ; and by calling on those who were really concerned to come to the Saviour, to show it by occupying the anxious seat. They sang again ; and, while singing, some forms before the pulpit were cleared, and about twelve persons knelt down at them with great seriousness of manner. There was no confusion, and the act of coming out does perhaps less violence to their feeUngs, as they are a small body, and are on an equality. One of the elders now took the matter into his hands, and offered prayer. Had he sought to cool down the state of feeling, it could not have been better done. But there was no need for this ; for there was no extravagance. They then rose, and sang, and separated. This was the first time I had worshipped with an assembly of slaves ; and I shall never forget it. I was certainly by sympathy bound with those who were bound ; while I rejoiced, on their account, afresh in that divine truth, which makes us free indeed, which lifts the soul on high, unconscious of a chain. Much has been said, and is still said, about the essen- tial inequality of the races. That is a question which must be settled by experiment. Here the experiment was undoubtedly in favour of the blacks. In sense and in feeling, both in prayer and address, they were equal to the whites ; and in free and pointed expression much superior. Indeed, I know not that while I was in Amer- ica, I listened to a peroration of an address that was superior to the one I have briefly noted to you. On leaving, we found we were too late for our first purpose ; but as the Methodists were just assembling for service, I expressed a wish to unite with them. There were few persons present: not more than 150. A gen- •I i: ',' I 'i ! -..^i'-- LEXINGTOIf. 155 id of de- ntaneous He had lut much ing what ailing on Saviour, hey sang he pulpit down at e was no laps less )ody, and took the Had he ;ould not I for this ; rose, and ne I had i I shall ly bound , on their !S us free ious of a le cssen- jn which cperiment lense and ere equal ion much in Amer- that was our first ibling for There A gen- tleman, one of their local preachers, took the duties of the pulpit. The services in his hands were very unin- teresting. He had much conceit, poor wit, and many words ; and all he said was gabbled and uttered seem- ingly by rote. His address abounded with such plumed and wise expressions as — " 1 put it to your rationality — white-robed angels of light — your spirit shall flutter before God in never-ending bliss" — and " when you hear the clods of the valley tumbling on your coffin." It was a sorry affair, and in contrast with what I had just witnessed. This, however, is no specimen of the average means possessed by this people. On the Tuesday afternoon, I preached, as had been ananged, to a considerable and attentive congregation. I baptized also two children, by Mr. Douglas's per- mission, and at the request of the parents. One was the infant son of the Rev. James Payne, who was named after Henry Martyn. Mr. Payne has laboured with much success in this vicinity. I had much pleasing and profitable intercourse with the Christian friends here ; and it must be considered that the state of religion among the people is good. The population of the town is not above 1,000, yet there are three places of worship. The Presbyterian reckons about 500 attendants and 300 members ; the Methodist, about 300, and 200 members ; and the African, about 150, and 60 members. In the Sunday schools, there are about 250 children. A lady told me, I think, that there was no mother of a family who was not a member of some church. The Temperance cause has worked beneficially here. There were nine spirit stores, now there is only one ; indeed, it was the custom to have water and spirits on the counter of every store, to be used at pleasure ; th^s custom has now disappeared. The town, as a settlement, has many attractions. It is surrounded by beauty, and stands at the head of a valley, flowing with milk and honey. House rent is low; provisions are cheap, abundant, and of the best quality. Flowers and gardens are more prized here M. ■'t- ^. ^■ 156 \ EXCURSION. ! .i ii. ^ H nit . p-i i /[. I! : • S M ! .l»' I than in most places ; and by consequence the humming* bird is found in larger numbers. That beautiful little creature has much the habits and appearance of the bee ; and the trumpet honey-suckle seems to be a favourite plant, on account of its cell being enriched with honey. At the request of Mr. Douglas, I made an excursion to visit his friends, and to inspect Weyer's Cave. This cave is esteemed one of the greatest natural curiosities ; occasionally, it is lighted up by some 3,000 or 3,000 candles, for the accommodation of visiters ; and this was to happen just at this time. We were a party of five, and started early in the morning, with a four-wheeled chaise and two saddle-horses. We halted at Colonel M'Dowell's, hoping to bait both ourselves and cattle there. The colonel is a man of large property and high connexions ; he has a son in the House of Repre- sentatives, and a son-in-law in the Senate. We were most kindly received. The day was hot, about 90° ; and we were in the hall. It had, as is frequently the case, the dimensions of a room, and was supplied with sofa, chairs, and table. It is preferred at this season, because of its greater coolness ; and it is not uncommon to see the whole family occupied in it and the porch, or portico, on a fine evening. This, with the naked foot, the fan, and the lighter dress, illustrate some of the eastern manners and historical descriptions of sacred Scripture. We partook of an excellent repast ; and, refreshed in body and spirit, proceeded on our way, after having given a promise that we would use their house in our return. The colonel's lady, addressing me as the stranger, " could not consent to an Englishman passing their door." In the evening, we sought to shorten our way, and lost ourselves in the woods. This gave us some perplexity and some amusement. It made us, however, late, and our cattle weary ; and, as we had still to ford a river, it gave us some concern. At nightfall, we reached it ; but at the ' vrong place. We attempted it ; it was al- most unfordable. The waters were high, and they ran ; III ii CAPTAIN hall's. 157 umming- ful little the bee ; favourite h honey. xcursion This riosities ; or 3,000 and this party of wheeled Colonel id cattle erty and Repre- We were re in the mensions ciirs, and !ie of its see the Drtico, on 1 fan, and manners re. We i in body g given a iir return. stranger, eir door." , and lost )erplexity late, and a river, it iched it ; i was al- they ran ,1 I over the horse's back, and into the carriage, so that our feet and luggage were standing in water. We urged the horse to the utmost, and we succeeded ; but, with a tired animal and a heavy carriage, the experiment was full of hazard. In our wet condition, and in the dark night, we came to Captain Hall's, to solicit hospitality. It was not asked in vain. The captain is a farmer ; and, as he was expecting no one, his principal room was converted into a carpenter's shop ; but we were offered the best that circumstances allowed. I retired early to rest. My attendant was a little slave. The child was distant at first ; but was quickly encouraged by a kind word or look. He was very anxious to explore my dressing- case, and to get the names of things. The watch was familiar to him ; but he could not understand what the compass was, and seemed afraid of it. He was inquis- itive to know, but very careful in touching things. I found him at my bedside in the early morning, still seeking to obtain information, and to show some atten- tions. My rest would, I doubt not, have been fair, but for one source of interruption. I had left my window open for the sake of air, expecting no evil ; but the cats must have used it for their gambols, for they were cour- sing about my chamber all night most disagreeably. If in no other way haunted, it was certainly a strange, and, I suppose, accustomed haunt of the cats. Once out of the path, how difficult it is to return ! We started again very early, but we still lost our way, and expected to arrive at the Cave, after all our pains, too late for the spectacle. We reached the spot about one o'clock. The party of visiters had been, and were just sitting down to dinner. But the lights were burn- ing, and the guides were willing ; and this was, to my taste, the very time to see it, free from the noise and confusion of two hundred visiters. So, turning our back on the dinner, away we went. The cave is found in a ridge of limestone hills, run- ning parallel with the Blue Ridge. In going to it, you 14 # '( ; 158 WEYER S CAVE. if' ' «i I r' \ii4 .'I'l pass by Madison's Cave, which was once an object of much interest, but is now neglected, from the greater attractions of the one we are about to explore. You ascend the side of the hill by a zigzag path of about 150 yards long, and then find yourself opposite a wooden door, which i^ the entrance, and having a bench, on which you res% f^ get cool, or to prepare otherwise for ingress. Having passed the door, you find yourself in a small cave, which may be regarded as a lobby to the whole apartments. With raised expectations, you look about you, by the aid of the daylight, which is strug- gling to enter, for some openings more considerable. All that you see, however, is the mouth of what appears a dark recess about four feet square ; and you are told this is your passage onward. You have no alternative, but to double yourself up into the smallest possible di- mensions, and move along, after the lights of your guides, as well as you may, by the assistance of your hand? . Having scrambled along for about twenty-five feet, you come into some larger openings, which allow you the free use of your person. You look upward and around you, and find yourself surrounded by the most grotesque figures, formed, through ages, by the percolation of the waters through the heavy arches of rocii work over your head ; while the eye, glancing onward, catches the dim and distant glimmer of the lights — some in the deeps be- low, and some in the galleries above. On quitting these smaller rooms and galleries, you enter an ascending pas- sage, of easy access ; and on coming to its extremity, you see the opening of a large cavern spread before you, and the commencement of some step?? by which you are to descend. Your care is engaged in getting safely down ; but when you have obtained your standing on the floor, you are delighted to find yourself in a large cavern, of irregular formation, and full of wild beauty. It is about thirty by fifty feet, and is called Solomon's Temple. The incrustations become finer here. At your ri^ht hand, they hang just like a sheet of water that had been frozen as it fell. There they rise before you in a beau- I 4 f I I'll CAVERN. 159 object of e greater re. You of about a wooden )ench, on rwise for irself in a by to the you look is Strug- siderable. tt appears I are told Iternative, issible di- ur guides, handf . e feet, you IV you the nd around grotesque ion of the over your s the dim I deeps be- tting these nding pas- extremity, )efore you, ch you are ing safely ling on the rge cavern, ity. It is 's Temple, your rijjht t had been in a beau- tiful stalactitic pillar ; and yonder they compose an ele- vated seat, surrounded by sparry pinnacles, which sparkle beautifully in the light. The one is called Solomon's Throne, and the other his Pillar. On leaving the Temple, you enter another room more irregular, but more beautiful. Besides having ornaments in common, it spreads over you a roof of most admirable and singular formation. It is entirely covered with stalactites, which are suspended from it like inverted pinnacles. They are of the finest material, and are most b. autifuUy shaped and embossed. You now make an ascent of several feet, and move along a passage, and through two or three lobbies, and come to what is called the Twin-room, and find your way is just on the verge of a dark cavern, which is yawning at your feet, and is named the Devil's Oven. A descent is now made of some difficulty, and from an elevation of about forty feet ; and you enter a large room, which is called the Tanyard. This, like some of the rest, is an absurd name ; but it has been adopted from the force of association. There are in the rocky floor of this room large cavities, which may be thought to resemble the tan- pits ; and from the ceiling are suspended large sheets of beautiful stalactites, which resemble the tanner's hides. You advance to an upper floor in this room, which has chiefly one ornam.dnt, and that is sufficient. There is, extending along the room, and from roof to floor, an im- mense sheet of the finest stalactite. When it is struck with the hand, it emits deep and mellow sounds, like those of a muffled drum, and isi called the Drum-room. You now rise by some natural steps to a platform, which you have again to descend, and then find yourself in what is named the Ball-room. It is a handsome and large apartment, about 100 feet long, 36 wide, and 26 high. Its floor is so level as to admit of dancing, and it has been used for this purpose There is in the centre of it a large calcareous deposite, which has received the name of Faganini's Statue ; the whole room is relieved b^ grotesque concretions ; and the effect of the lights 160 CAVERN. • I ; i i Ij 111 !i^ 1 r % I ! burning at every elevation, and leaving hidden more than they revealed, is exceedingly fine. From the Ballroom you make an ascent of 40 feet. This is named Frenchman's Hill; from the circum'^ttmce that a visiter from 1^'rance, with his guide, had their lights extinguished at this spot. Happily, the guide -vad sue ii an accurate knowledge of the locality, that, after much dif- ficulty, they got safely back, a distance of more than 500 feet. You wind your way through passages, and make a descent of nearly 30 feet, by what is known as Jacob's Ladder, with pits and CRverns opening about you, and come into the Senate Chamber, and afterwrard to Cor- gress Hall. The last is a fine room, very like the Bali rooi\', but with an uneven floor. As you leave it, an im- mense cavern spreads itself before you, with the dim lights gier,;ning over its mouth, so as to make its un- faihomed darknes;s horrible. You gaze on it with amaze- ment, and instinctively long to pass on, lest it should drink you up. It has received the name of " Infernal Regions." By another lobby, and another descent, you enter Washington Hall. This is the most wonderful opening of the whole. It is 250 feet long, and 33 feet high. There is a fine sheet of rock-work running up the centre of this room, and giving it the aspect of two separate and noble galleries, till you look above, where you observe the partition rises only 20 feet towards the roof, and leaves the fine arch expanding over your head untouched. There is a beautiful concretion here stand- ing out in the room, whicn certainly has the form and drapery of a gigantic statue ; it bears the name of the Nation's Hero, and the whole place is filled with those projections, appearances which excite the imagination by suggesting resemblances, and leaving them unfinished. The general effect, too, was perhaps indescribable. The fine perspective of this room, four times the length of an Ordinary church ; the numerous tapers, when near you, so encumbered by deep shadows as to give only a dim religious light ; and when at a distance, appearing^ in their various attitudes like twinkling stars on a deep i '♦ CAVERN. 161 ^: dark heaven ; the amazing vaulted roof spread over you, with its carved and knotted surface, to which the stream- ing hghts below in vain endeavoured to convey their radiance ; together with the impression that you had made so deep an entrance, and were so entirely cut off from the living world and ordinary things ; produces an effect which, perhaps, the mind can receive but once, and will retain for ever. On leaving these striking apartments, you pass through a passage in which is standing some grand formations, named Cleopatra's Needle and the Pyramids ; and then enter a room called the Church. The appearances in this instance suggest the name. It has about the dimen- sions of a church, and has an elevation of about 50 feet. There is at one end an elevated recess, which has the air of a gallery. At the back of this gallery there are a number of pendent stalactites, of an unusual size and beauty. They are as large as the pipes of a full-sized organ, and are ranged similarly. They emit, when struck, mellow sounds of various keys ; and if a stick is run over them, as we run the finger over musical glasses, they make pleasant music. There is nothing forced in giving this instrument the appellation of organ ; it is one of the best that nature ever made ; and the most remark- able that I ever beheld. At the other extremity there rises from the ground (not stuck on a roof, as we fre- quently see) a beautiful spire of considerable height ; and this is the steeple. You pass by the steeple, and come into an apartment which has the name of the Dining-room. It has similar dimensions to the Church ; and on its left side there is a continued elevation, resembling a table. You now enter an immense gallery, about 10 feet wide, and some 121 feet long, and from 80 to 100 feet high. You turn aside to visit a small apartment, but of exquisite beauty. Here the most singular sparry concretions hang pendent from the roof, while an equal number are growing up from the ground in several degrees of progress, many of them meeting in the centre, and becoming one. Winding pas- 14* 162 WEYER S CAVE. 1^ i fii: sages are left among them, which make a sort of labyr- inth ; and as they are semi-pellucid, the passing of the lights through the several alleys has a very singular ef- fect. This has the name of the Garden of Eden. You return to the Dining-room, and pass by a dark opening at your feet, which is the mouth of a cavern, into which the foot of man has never been. It can only be explored by rope ladders ; and it is supposed, though I think without sui)icient rsason, to be charged with mephitic gases, fatal to life. You may now make an ascent of some 50 feet, if your nerves allow, and your reward will be adequate to your pains. You must cUmb over the face of the rock, which has nearly a perpendic- ular pitch, and you will then find yourself on an elevated platform, and surrounded b} loopholes and striking figures. You may now look dov*";:! from your errinence, which is the Giant's Causeway, into the large illuminated rooms you have left, and perhaps see a small party mo- ving over the floors in misty shadow. Here stands out in relief before you, and on the very verge of the plat- form, a fine group of stalagmites, white as alabaster, and suggesting to the fancy the figures of a small party of horse moving over high and dangerous precipices. They are Bonaparte and his Guards. There is a fine arch expanding before you over the scene below ; you may, with caution, ascend on its head, and by this means gain a more commanding view of the objects so far beneath you. But we must hasten on. When you have mide your descent to the ordinary level, and move on your return- ing course, you pass by an enormous and most beautiful concretion. It is a tower, vhoxxt 30 feet each way at the base, and rising in diminished squares to the height of 30 feet. It is a stalagmite ; nearly as w^hite and clear as alabaster, and dazzles you by its capacity to reflect lights. You pass, also, some fine springs, at which you may refresh yourself on the way. There is one I must dis- tinguish before we leave. You ascend, in getting to it, J I I: .It . INN. 163 a steep of n feet, by a ladder, and then, by a little hard climbing, attain to the end of the recess, and stand before what is named the Source of the Nile. It is a fine trans- parent spring, and is very remarkable for being covered with a thin pellicle of stalagmite. It is strong enough to bear you ; and has a hole cut in the centre, which gives you access to the water. I hope you will not think you have been detained too long on this spectacle. My regret is, that I have only described one half of what it unfolds, and that with haste and imperfection. It is, in my judgment, one of the great natural wonders of this new world ; and for its eminence in its own class, deserves to be ranked with the Natural Bridge and Niagara, while it is far less known than either. Its dimensions, by the most direct course, are more than 1,600 feet; and by the more winding paths, twice that length ; and its objects are remarkable for their variety, formation, and beauty. In both respects, it will, I think, compare, without injury to itself, with the cele- brated Grotto of Antiparos. For myself, I acknowledge the spectacle to have been most interesting ; but, to be so, it must be illuminated, as on this occasion. I had thought that this circum- stance might give to the whole a toyish effect ; but the influence of 2,000 or 3,000 lights on these immense cav- erns is only such as to reveal the objects, without dis- turbing the solemn and sublime obscurity which sleeps on every thing. Scarcely any scenes can awaken so many passions at once, and so deeply. Curiosity, apprehen- sion, terror, surprise, admiration, and delight, by turns and together, arrest and possess you. I have had before, from other objects, one simple impression made with greater power ; but I never had so many impressions made, and with so much power, before. If the interest- ing and the awful are the elements of the sublime, here subUmity reigns, as in her own domain, in darkness, silence, and deeps profound. On emerging from this subterrene world, our first con- cern was to perform our ablutions and rectify our dresses. f ' li ? ,1 ■: 1 IKf . i si ,■ 1' ^i ' ; ii k-^' ' l! 164 INN. * -I ! I -I J ir: Il^r This done, we hastened to the inn in search of refresh- monts. Here we were presented with a singular con- trast to the scenes just contemplated. The innkeeper had advertised his show over all the welkin ; and his invitation had been fairly responded to ; but he had not provided adequate acconiiaodation. Plis inn was a little frame building, only fit for a small family ; and had the day been wet, the company had been in a wretched con- dition. The two upper rooms were crowded with fe- males, who were waiting in succession to enjoy the use of a single looking-^lass, that they might arrange their dresses, and put themselves above ridicule. Below, the two rooms were equally thronged with men, who were making way to the bar for their potion of mint-julap, and other favourite mixtures. Many preferred rather to rely on the pure spirit, than on mixtures of any kind. All, per- haps, thought that the occasion, which is one of much fatigue and of exposure to great difference of temperature (not lefcs than 30°) would justify the use of some por- tion ; but many were not contented with a little ; I never saw, at any other time, so many persons the worse for the use of spirituous liquors. In front of the house, on the greensward, a table was prepared, with a wooden awning, which would receive about one third of the company. It was completely sur- rounded, and mostly by ladies, who were certainly dis- cussing the matters before them with great earnestness ; while their friends, lovers, and servants, — young farmers, smart collegians, and blacks, — were in bustling attend- ance behind, supplying their plates, fanning their per- sons, and passing the merry joke and joyous laugh around. Apart from these were a multitude who had already par- taken of the feast, reposing on chairs, or expanding them- selves on the turf, talking, smoking, or listening to the squeaking fiddle of an old merry slave, who was doing his best to gather up the loose halfpence of the company. It offered to one an interesting specimen of the people for thirty miles round. It was composed chiefly of the young ; and most oi them seemed to have come rather to NEW HOPS. 166 h of refresh- lingular con- le innkeeper kin ; and his t he had not n was a httle and had the irretched con- ded with fe- njoy the use arrange their Below, the n, who were int-julap, and rather to rely d. All, per- 3ne of much !* temperature of some por- ttle ; I never he worse for a table was ould receive mpletely sur- jertainly dis- earnestness ; )ung farmers, jtling attend- ig their per- augh around, already par- anding them- ening to the 10 was doing he company, f the people hiefly of the }m6 rather to enjoy a frohc than to gratify an intelligent curiosity. One of their greatest faults was that of doing so much wanton mischief to the more delicate ornaments of the cave. All who went to the cave paid for the refreshments ; but as they were not easy to get at, and not very tempt- ing when obtained, we partook of our sandwiches, and, admonished by approaching evening, prepared to leave. The black, who had attended our horses, and who had been recompensed by Mr. Douglas, thinking that I was not aware of this, came up to me, and taking hold of my stirrup, said, in a plaintive voice and look, '* Massa, it^s been bad day to me ! It 'most breaks my heart, to do so much and get so little. Massa !" I have no doubt that Massa made a very good day of it ; but these men are very insinuating ; and bondage and cunning go together. We endeavoured to return by a nearer and better course. From the advancing state of the day, and the wearied state of ourselves and horses, it was necessary that we should accept the first accommodations on the road. At a distance of five miles from the cave, we ar- rived at a village named New Hope, and at a tavern with the sign of " Plain Dealing Hotel." Now, as I have no relish for terms of cant, either in civil or religious life, I thought this sign somewhat ominous. On a nearer sur- vey, some of us maintained that it could not contain us ; but Mr. D. thought its capacities greater than its appear- ance ; and so we alighted. The sleeping-rooms, as they were called, were in the angles of the roof, and were more like dovecots than bed-chambers ; moreover, otht^rs were to have access to them. We determined, therefore, to have the beds down stairs, and to sleep on the floor of the sitting and eating-room. When the time for this arrangement came, I was con- sulted by my hostess on my preference for a straw-mat- tress or feather-bed. Now, unused as I was to sleep on the boards, and harbouring, as I did, from my weary and bruised state, a special dislike to all hard sounds, I hastily resolved on the feather-bed. For me, this was a fatal choice. My friends had the mattresses, and, therefore, 166 NATURAL BRIDGE. I; ^- I I ■ i I i I!' m preserved between themselves and the floor a substanori of some elasticity ; but as for me and my feather-bed, whenever I thought to place myself upon it, and however softly, away went the feathers on either side, and left me just to the blank and knotted boards. It was a weary night, relieved only by two circumstances. The first was, that my friends wore sleeping fairly ; and the sec- ond was, that at midnight, some one opened the window, entered the room, and passed away to his place of slum- ber without ceremony. We had secured our door to pre- vent such intrusion ; but this was done in simplicity. Doors are the only mode of entrance to some ; they are only one of many to others. However, the people of this house, though of the plainest, gave us all the accommo- dation in their power ; and plain dealing with them seems to have prospered, for they are carrying up a much better house for their own and the public use. We rose with the sun, and hastened on our way be- fore the heat of the day. We paused at the " Tinkling Springs," where we found a church, a school-house, and a burial-ground, in the heart of the woods ; at Granville, wh(>re we left Mr. Douglas, at the dwelling of his mother ; and at Colonel M'Dowell's, as we promised, where we had the same kindnesses repeated ; and at length reached Lexington, after an excursion which was very gratifying at the time, and which will, I doubt not, be pleasant to recollection always. I had only half a day remaining to see the Natural Bridge ; and to have left Lexington without seeing it, would have been a piece of Vandalism which the good people would not have forgiven. Colonel Reid, and two other gentlemen, accompanied me ; Mr. Carruthers had become unwell by the heat of the weather in our previous trip. On this occasion it was worse ; the glass was at 95°, and we had to ride on horseback in the presence of an intolerable sun. I perspired almost equally to what I had done at Louisville. But the sight leaves you neither weariness nor regret. This famous bridge is on the head of a fine limestone hill, ^ der b thus n ilil!. NATURAL BRIDGE. 167 a substanori feather-bed, ind however I, and left me vas a weary The first and the see- the window, ice of slum- ■ door to pre- simphcity. B ; they are eople of this e accommo- thetn seems much better ur way be- ! "Tinkling 1-house, and It Granville, his mother ; , where we igth reached y gratifying pleasant to the Natural t seeing it, :h the good sid, and two ruthers had )ur previous ass was at presence of ly to what I you neither e limestone hill, which has the appearance of having been rent asun- der by some terrible convulsion in nature. The fissure thus maide is about ninety feet ; and over it the bridge runs, so needful to the spot, and so unlikely to have sur- vived the great fracture, as to seem the work of man ; so simple, so grand, so great, as to assure you that it is only the work of God. The span of the arch runs from 46 to 60 feet wide ; and its height, to the under line, is about 200 feet, and to the head about 240 ! The form of the arch approaches to the elliptical ; and it is carried over on a diagonal line, the very hne of all others so difficult to the architect to realize ; and yet so calculated to enhance the picturesque beauty of the object ! There are chiefly three points of sight. You naturally make your way to the head of the bridge first ; and as it is a continuation of the common road, with its sides cov- ered with fine shrubs and trees, you may be on it before you are aware. But the moment you approach through the foliage to the side, you are filled with apprehension. It has, indeed, a natural parapet ; but few persons can stand forward and look over. You instinctively seek to reduce your height, that you may gaze on what you ad- mire with security. Even then it agitates you with dizzy sensations. You then make your way some fifty feet down the bosom of the hill, and are supplied with some admirable standings on the projecting rock- work, to sco the bridge and all its rich accompaniments. There is, 200 feet be- low you, the Cedar river, apparently motionless, except where it flashes with light, as it cuts its way through the broken rocks. Mark the trees, of every variety, but especially the fir, how they diminish as they stand on the margin of its bed ; and how they ascend, step by step, on the noble rock- work, till they overshadow you ; still pre- se-ving such delicacy of form and growth, as if they would not do an injury, while they lend a grace. Ob- serve those hills, gathering all around you in their fairest forms and richest verdure, as if to do honour to a scene of surpassing excellence. Now look at the bridge itself, 168 NATURAL BRIDGE. springing from this bed of verdant loveliness, distinct, one, complete ! It is before you in its mos. picturesque form. You just see through the arch, and the internal face of the farther pier is perfectly revealed. Did you ever see such a pier — such an arch 1 Is it not most illusive ! Look at that masonry. Is it not most like the perfection of art ; and yet what art could never reach 1 Look at that colouring. Does it not appear like the painter's highest skill, and yet unspeakably transcend it ? This is exquisite. Still you have no just conception of this masterpiece until you get below. You go some little distance for this purpose, as in the vicinity of the bridge the rocks are far too precipitous. A hot and brill- iant day is, of all others, the time to enjoy this object. To escape from a sun which scorches you, into these verdant and cool bottoms, is a luxury of itself, which dis- poses you to relish every thing else. When down, I was very careful of the first impression, and did not venture to look steadily on the objects about me till I had selected my station. At length I placed myself about 100 feet from the bridge, on some masses of rock, which were washed by the running waters, and ornamented by the slender trees which were springing from its fissures. At my feet was the soothing melody of the rippling, gush- ing waters. Behind me, and in the distance, the river and the hills were expanding themselves to the light and splendour of day. Before me, and all around, every thing was reposing in the most delightful shade, set off by the streaming rays of the sun, which shot across the head of the picture far above you, and sweetened the solitude je- low. On the right and left, the majestic rocks arose, with the decision of a wall, but without its uniformity, massive, broken, beautiful, and supplying a most admira- ble foreground ; and, everywhere, the most delicate stems were planted in their crevices, and waving their heads in the soft breeze, which occasionally came over them. The eye now ran through the bridge, and was gratified with a lovely vista. The blue mountains stood out in the background ; beneath them, the hills and woods I SACRAMENTAL MEETING.. 169 distinct, one, resque form, rnal face of fon ever see 9St illusive ! lie perfection 1 ? Look at ;he painter's iti t conception fou go some cinity of the tiot and brill- this object. II, into these f, which dis- down, I was not venture had selected >ut 100 feet which were snted by the its fissures. )pling, gush- ce, the river he light and , every thing jt off by the the head of solitude je- rocks arose, uniformity, lost admira- ist delicate iraving their came over ^e, and was itains stood I and woods si ,i ll gathered together, so as to enclose the dell below ; while the river, which was coursing away from them, seemed to have its well-head hidden in their recesses. Then there is the arch, distinct from every thing, and above every thing ! Massive as it is, it is light and beautiful by its height, und the fine trees on its summit seem now only like a garland of evergreens ; and, elevated as it is, its appa- rent elevation is wonderfully increased by the narrow- ness of its piers, and by its outline being drawn on the blue sky, which appears beneath and above it ! Oh, it is sublime — so strong, and yet so elegant — springing from earth, and bathing its head in heaven ! But it is the sublime not allied to the terrific, as at Niagara ; it is the sublime associated with the pleasing. I sat, and gazed in wonder and astonishment. That afternoon was the shortest I ever remembered. I had quickly, too quickly, to leave the spot for ever ; but the music of those waters, the luxury of those shades, the form and colours of those rocks, and that arch — that arch — rising over all, and seeming to offer a passage to the skies — 0, they will never leave me ! LETTER XVI. My dear Friend, At four the next morning I left Lexington in the car- riage of a friend, having made it one of my few resting- places. My intention was to join Mr. Douglas at a four- day sacramental meeting, at which he was attending. The congregation in which it occurred was in a state of revival, and it was among the most prosperous of this country. I had a strong desire vo commune with the as- sembled Christians on the solemn occasion, and to make myself acquainted with the appearances of religion among them. ^ Vol. L— H il no SACRAMENTAL MEETING. .i IS liUi i' ;fc'it :i. We had about fifteen miles to go, and partly from the heaviness of the roads, and partly from the heat of the day, we did not arrive til) after the morning service had begun. The first indication of our approach to the church was in the appearance of an immense number of saddle-horses, from 300 to 400, lasned to the trees ; and, as we continued to wind our way along, we presently saw portions of the building through the clustering trunks and fohage. On reaching the place, we found it crowded to excess, and enlivened without by a great number stand- ing in the open doorways, sitting on the steps, or repo- sing on the grass, where they might have the chance of hearing ; and, in many instances, charged with the care of young and happy children, too gay to be quiet in a state of confinement. The associations were interest- ing; here was a large congregation, proper to a city, convened in the depths of the forest. The circumstan- ces were striking ; the day was exceedingly hot, but here people, cattle, church, and all, were thrown into most de- lightful shade by the overtopping trees, except where the sun shot down through an opening before the sanctuary, like a pillar of light and glory. We managed to gain admittance. It was the sacra- mental service. Messrs. Morrison, Douglas, and Arm- strong, were officiating. The pastor admitted twelve per- sons to the church, and three of them were baptized pre- viously. The other services were in the usual order of the Presbyterian Church. The members came succes- sively to the tables ; the persons of colour coming last. There must have been 500 persons communicating. There was the appearance of true seriousness on the whole assembly ; and every thing was as quiet and solemn as it could be with a house so crowded, and the exchange of places which this method makes necessary. I gratefully united with them ; we ate of one bread and drank of one cup, and were, I trust, of one spirit. In such circumstances, there was great power and sweet- ness in that promise, " I will be to them as a little sanc- tuary in the wilderness." I. SACRAMENTAL MEETING. 171 tly from the heat of the service had ach to the I number of trees ; and, esently saw ; trunks and crowded to mber stand- ps, or repo- B chance of ith the care e quiet in a re interest- r to a city, circumstan- lot, but here ito most de- )t where the } sanctuary, s the sacra- 3, and Arm- [ twelve per- aptized pre- lal order of ime succes- ;oming last, imunicating. ness on the s quiet and led, and the 3 necessary, e bread and } spirit. In ■ and sweet- i little sane- i ' At noon a pause was made for half an hour, as a pe- riod of refreshment. Then you might have seen the family and friendly groups, in all directions, seated at the feet of the gigantic trees, partaking of their simple re- past, and welcoming all to partake who were provided with less than themselves. The afternoon service was renewed and sustained in like spirit. The birds, which had found a nest for them- selves within and without this sacred habitation, flew in and out by the open windows, seeming to excite no ob- servation except to myself, so rural were the habits of this people ! At the close of the engagements, I went with Mr. I .or- rison. His dwelling is about two miles distant. It was really a beautiful sight to see this people — men, women, and children, — all mounted on their fine horses, and starting away, as from a centre, into every part of the forest, where you would think there was no way to be found. In our own line, we had quite a cavalcade, such as old Chaucer might have celebrated. As we advanced over glade, and brook, and dingle, our path forked, and we broke off to the right and left ; and again it forked, and again we were scattered. My eye long rested on them. Now you might see a single horseman take his solitary path through the woods ; now a family cluster, parent, child, and grandchild ; and now an aged pair, who told you that they were closing life as they began it, alone. Now they thrid their way through the thick' .i- ing forest ; now they disappear in the dingle : now you see them again, but indistinctly, and far away ; and now they vanish altogether. My eye searched for them in vain. Why should it have searched at all 1 i did not know these people — I had not spoken to them. Why, then, did a sentiment of regret steal over me, as they vanished, one by one, perhaps to be seen no more for ever 1 You can understand this. The following day was the last of the four, and noth- ing would satisfy my brethren but that I should preac> in the morning. There was an excellent attendance, a,ad H2 172 STAUNTON. the people evidently heard with attention and seriousness. One circumstance gave me some surprise at the moment. Towards the close of the sermon, some twenty or thirty men rose, after each other, and went out, and in the course of three or four minutes returned to their place '>. It was evidently not the effect of inattention, for they were attentive themselves, and showed concern to disturb thw? hearing of others as little as possible. I could not imagine the cause ; but it was afterward explained, that some rahi had fallen, and they had gone out to cover the saddles, that they might not get wet. Apart from the unpleasantness and hazard of a wet saddle, the young people here are very chary of their horses and their ac- coutrements, as, more than an> thing, these mark the re- spectability of the party. I took my leave of the people, whiL yet assembled, and waiting other services, as I had to hasten on to Staunton that day. My esteemed friend also excused himself to his people, and kindly insisted that he would convey me so far on my journey. I was greatly obliged by this mark of friendship, especially as it allowed me an opportunity of free intercourse with him on subjects touching his charge. I learned that this neighbourhood had been long settled, though the population was so concealed ; and that the present church is the third that has been built on the spot. The first was a mere !og erection. The inhabi- tants were till a late period much annoyed by the Indians. There was a fovt on the plantation where my friend re- sides ; and most of the houses were fortified, and the people obliged to bring tlieir rifles to church, to protect themselves from attack. My friend had been settled here since the year 1819, and it was his maiden charge. When he came, he thougVit there was a good impression on the minds of the people, from the sudden death of a beloved minister. The church was comparatively small, but there was a large h'ro- fessou the Saviour. His labours for the fir^i i.ve years STAUNTON. 173 eriousness. ie moment, ty or thirty and in the leir place •^. r they were disturb the could not lained, that ;o cover the irt from the , the young tid their ac- aark the re- assembled, isten on to Iso excused at he would atly obliged owed me an an subjects ong settled, Lnd that the »uilt on the he inhabi- ;he Indians. friend re- d, and the to protect year 1819, came, he inds of the I minister, lere was a lot yet pro- i"ve years were very successful. After this, there was a pause in his usemlness, which gave him much distress. He could not avoid connecting this very much with the abundant production and use of distilled liqucrs throughout his parish. They had all, as farmers, fallen into the prac- tice of converting their surplur corn and fruit into spirif . This, of course, was a great temptation. He made it the subject of consideration and prayer. He determined to press the claims of the Temperance cause on their con- sciences. Ht did it with firmness, but with equal pru- dence and temper. It had nearly unsettled him with his charge for a time ; for some of the leading farmers re- sisted, end became adverse to him. However, some yielded, and otliers followed ; and this was succeeded by a re' ■ .^ed state f religion such us they have not known ; and it has continued for the last four years. Before this effort, no less than 150,000 barrels of spirits were pro- 1 1 duced, and each family had a still ; now not 5,000 are made, and but one person holds a still. The farmers, too, have found a better market for their surplus produce, and are every way more prosperous. To assist your judgment on this interesting case, I will supply you with the additions to this church through a course of years, as taken from the register. In the year 1819, the year of his settlement, fourteen persons were added; in 1820, thirty; in 1821, eighteen; in 1822, sixty-eight ; in 1823, forty-four ; in 1824, five ; in 1825, six; in 1826, nine; in 1827, six; in 1828, nine; in 1829, three; in 1830, six; in 1831, one hundred and ibur ; in 1832, forty ; in 1833, two hundred and seventy- four; and in the year 1834, up to August, twenty-five were added. In the first revival no means were used except preaching, and meetings for prayer. In the sec- ond, which includes the last four years, similar means were used with more frequency ; and in a few instances, the serious were separated from the rest of the congre- gation. The persons impressed and converted on these occasions were, with very few exceptions, from fifteen to thirty yeais of age, inclining to the younger period. 15* 174 STAUNTON. m \-r/ i ^ ■ i' ! ; :|: Those in respectable life were at least equally afTected with others ; and in the second revival, the work began in the more wealthy families, and passed downward to the poor and the servants. There was in neither case, nor at any time, the least noise or disorder ; and the most useful seasons have always been characterized by deep stillness and solemnity. The first and chief sign for good, in every case, Mr. Morrison remarked with em- phasis, has been an increased spirit of prayer. The effects were very exhilarating. There are now about 600 members of the church, and nearly 200 of them are under twenty-five years of age, though scarcely any under fifteen. The family composing this church cover a district cf land about ten milea square. There is scarcely one that has not domestic worship. They have no poor to receive charity from the sacrament, and only one person needing help, who receives it through private channels ; and they contributed 1 ,000 dollars last year to foisign religious objects. The pastor's salary, I think, is 800 dollars ; and this my friend considers equal to 1,800 in New- York. Interesting conversations whiled the time aAvay. We halted to refresh, and to take leave of our friends, the Douglases ; and then drove on to Staunton. We alight- ed at the principal hotel. It was kept by a religious family, and Mr. Morrison was known and esteemed by them. We were entertained in their private rooms. They had read of the Deputation in the papers, and soon learned that I must be a member of it ; and were eager to show, as to a Christian and an Englishman, the utmost attentions. We had a room full to social worship, and had the sensation of being members of a private house- hold rather than of guests at a tavern. In the morning I was up with the day, for I had to leave by the stage at four o'clock. My beloved friend (such I must now call him) had also risen to continue his kindness to the last moment. We spoke ; we were silent ; we separated. I had, in this ride, to cross the Blue Ridge ; and was BLUE RIDGE. 175 illy affected work began ownward to leither case, sr ; and the icterized by i chief sign ed with em- r. ire are now sarly 200 of igh scarcely this church are. There }hip. They irament, and s it through I dollars last )r's salary, I siders equal aAvay. We friends, the We alight- a religious isteemed by /ate rooms. rs, and soon were eager , the utmost trorship, and ivate house- for I had to loved friend to continue we were B ; and was quickly roused from my musings on the past, by hearing that we were about to make the ascent. It was full four miles, and consumes much time ; but this was no matter of complaint under such circumstances. I must not, however, hold your attention with renewed descriptions of mountain scenery. Let me merely remark, that while, in the ascent, the nearer objects greatly resembled some things that have been described, there is considerable difference on attaining the full elevation. No single object stands out with prominence ; but all that you have seen, and greatly more, is spread before you at once in grand, expanded, and mellowed harmony. There is be- fore you a field of mountain heads, like to what may be seen in Wales or Scotland, beautifully coloured and bloomed by a blue mist which rests on them. And behind you is the valley you have left, now blended with other valleys, which together form only the raised foreground to the prodigious valley of the Mississippi, which streiches away and away, till it is lost in the hori- zon, and which might receive all the inhabitants of Eu- rope, and ask for more. I knew not in which direction to look with most eagerness and continuity. Sometimes I preferred the mountain, and then the valley picture ; and the enjoyment of either, I knew, must be very short. I gazed and admired again and again, so long as our dri- ver would allow ; and when we began to descend, I felt that I was about to separate from another friend, and to separate for ever. My intention in crossing the Blue Ridge was to make Charlottesville in my way to Richmond. The University of that place is considered foremost in the literary insti- tutions of this people, and it was desirable that it should not be overlooked. The site for the town and university could not have been better chosen. It is composed of fine swells of land ; is surrounded by beautiful open country ; and the blue hills lie in the distance delight- fully. If one may be governed by ordinary indications, it must be highly salubrious. The town is small, and has an unfinished appearance. 176 CHARLOTTESVILLE. ^^ 't t> The inhabitants, however, are respectable, and have a measure of refinament not frequently met with in towns of this class ; but Uterature has a tendency to humanize and refine all things where it comes. The only deduction on this impression is, that the stocks and the pillory stand in the courtyard, as a means of correction for the poor blacks. The religious character of this place is too remarkable to be unnoticed. It will be understood that the univer- sity was promoted chiefly by Jefferson, and on avowedly skeptical and infldel principles. This gave the character to the town. It had no religious means ; and the evil was increased from time to time, by the settlement of such persons only as were at least indifferent to means which it did not supply. This was the state of things till twenty-five years since, when a lady was brought, by her husband's engagements at the University, to reside in the town. She was a person of piety, and of course lamented greatly the moral and spiritual condition of the people. What she lamented, she sought to remove. She determined to commence, in her own honse, a Sab- bath school, for the religious instruction of the young. She persevered through many difficulties, and found re- ward in her work. The influence of her benevolent ex- ertions, as well as of her excellent character, touched her husband ; and he learned to honour the religion he had thoughtlessly despised. Strengthened by his concurrence, she proposed that their dwelling should be opened once on the Sabbath for divine worship, that the people might have some opportunity of separating that day from their common time. The work of faith and love was crowned with success. Various ministers gave their services ; and the people attended, listened, were impressed, and concerted from worldliness and ungodliness. There are now, in this town, of about 1,000 m population, four places of worship — Presbyterian, Episcopalian, Baptist, and Methodist. Upwards of 600 persons habitually at- tend them, and there are about 150 children in the Sab- bath schools. The excellent lady who made the first UNIVERSITY. 177 ind have a th in towns o humanize y deduction )iilory stand )r the poor remarkable the univer- n avowedly te character nd the evil ttlement of It to means ;e of things brought, by y, to reside d of course ition of the to remove. iise, a Sab- the young, d found re- evolent ex- ir, touched gion he had mcurrence, pened once ople might from their as crowned services ; ressed, and There are ation, four in, Baptist, bitually at- in the Sab- le the first movement in this change, still lives — a mother in Israel ; and the contrast of the former with the present times, in the history of this community, must often supply her with pleasant and grateful recollections. From the town let us make a transition to the Univer- sity. It was the favourite object of Jefferson. He gave it great pains, and was disposed to rest his reputation with posterity upon it. So far as morality and religion were concerned, his intention was to found it, not merely on liberal, but on infidel principles. His opinions had been mostly formed in the French school of that day ; and into his views of education, there entered something of the acuteness and malignity of Voltaire, with a portion of the speciousness and extravagance of Rousseau. This was styled philosophy ; and this philosophy was to gov- ern the establishment, or rather, it was to give the youths license to govern themselves. They were to bow to no authority ; they were to be controlled by no law, but v/ere to be lejft to their own honour as a sufficient principle of action. The fact was, however, that when the young men were fairly left to their honour, their honour left them. Disorder, dissipation, anc jily, became predom- inant. The better class of pupils was withdrawn. The professors took disgust, and looked around them for stations where order and conscience were still regarded ; and the whole frame of this University was threatened with dissolution. So far, then, as this was an experi- ment in favour of infidelity, like every other experiment, it has failed — completely failed. What, then, you are ready to ask, is its condition now I For the sake of the cause of letters, I am happy to state, that it is one of renovation and great promise. All the professors saw and felt the evil which had come over this noble institution, and threatened its destruction ; and generally they agreed in the remedy. They adopted a decided and vigorous system of discipline ; they honour- ed the name and institutions of religion ; they subscribed at their own expense to support ministers, who should, in turn, conduct public worship within the University, and H3 ' J ■tV' I M fe ; U !|i *': u ■ i • ■ \ ■ t ■ ' /■ il 178 UNIVERSITA' are now raising a subscription to build a church for this very purpose. The consequence is, that order is restored, and with t public confidence ; and youth cf respectable and pious connexions are flocking to it iroui the sur- rounding States. The professorships arc again sought by men of the first attainment ; and it is likely to do honour to the expectations of an aspiring people. It is now an experiment in favour of education, still conducted on liberal principles, but with religious sanctions ; and if it is steadily sustained, with a fixed regard tu this issue, it will succeed ! The Rev. Mr. Bowman, Presbyterian minister of this place, though unwell, kindly attended me to the Univer- sity, and introduced me to Professor Patteson. It was the vacation, and the professor regretted that most of the officers and pupils were away. He conducted me over the principal buildings, and took great and obliging pains to satisfy my inquiries. There is here an observatory, an excellent library, a good philosophical apparatus, and a rising collection of minerals. Externally, the mass of erections have an imposing and grand effect, and they are much assisted to this by the (_^i(niiad which they occupy. With some s light varia- tioi.vA iui '.e, the plan is wholly Jefferson's. He gave it very deep and close attention ; and obtained, by his ex- traordinary influence, large grants from the State in its favour. But these grants were not well applied, nor these pains skilfully directed. The erection, as a whole, will not endure the touch of rigid criticism. He saw that diversity of line, figure, and position, often contribute to striking effect, but he saw no more. The principal figure is the Rotunda ; answering to its name, while every thing else is as squsre as square can be. It is a very high circular wall, bu Ir. of red bricks, with a dome on its summit, and with, windows perforated round it. It stands naked and alone at the head of the picture. Running down from this, on either hand, are the dwellings for the professors, and the lecture-ro )ms, forming two sides of a handsome area. They are d' tached erections, with la ge i ■ niCHMOND. 17ft rch for thi» is restored, respectable ti the sur- ain sought likely to do )ple. It is I conducted ns ; and if I this issue, jter of this the Univer- n. It was most of the ed me over Uging pains jbservatory, laratus, and n imposing 1 to this by ight varia- e gave it by his ex- State in its pplied, nor as a whole, He saw contribute e principal while every is a very ome on its It stands Running ings for the sides of a with la ge I' columns rising their whole height ; and they are united by a colonnade running over the ground story, so that a line of columns, that is meant to be one to the eye, sup- plies you, at intervals, with pillars fifteen and thirty i'eet high ! The accommodations for the pupils are in the background, and are not meant to appear in the principal scene. Jefferson was proud of his success as an archi- tect ; so proud that, notwithstanding the glaro of his red bricks, and of a scorching sun, he would not allow any trees to be planted, lest they should hide tl' '•k of his hands ! Now that he is gone, the youn '"^ ap- pearing ; and, ungrateful as he was, ai to screen his defects, and to give a grace an< , ig to the scene which gratifies the eye, and harrnuiuzes with the quiet pursuits of the place. In quitting the University, let me, while I have spoken freely of Jefferson, do him justice in this particular. He was not an architect, and, unhappily, he was not a Chris- tian ; but he was a great man, and he sought with much pains to confer honour and benefit on his country, by the establishment of a great literary institution. When the flvils of his system shall have been removed, his name will still be identified with it, and will command the re- spect of his countrymen. On the same day I had to leave, by the stage, for Richmond. We had a fair night's rest at a comfortable inn on our way . The following morning we broke down, and were detained some hours without breakfast. Delay was also promoted by the heat of the season ; this line of coaches had six horses fall and expire on the road during the week. It was late in the day, tb' refore, be- fore we arrived at the capital. Richmond is afine city, with a population of about 15,000 persons. It has a commanding situation on the margin of the James river, from which it rises on the slopes of two fine hills. The main street is wide, handsome, and indicative of business ; and the retired streets are occu- pied by genteel and commodious residences, agreeably shaded and ornamented by the althea, the honeysuckle, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I |50 *^~ lU E LS. 12.0 Hi I |l.25 II u IJ4 iii^^gs ^ 6" — . ^ Hiotographic Sdenc3es CorpOTation 23 WIST MAIN STMR WiBSTIR,N.Y. MStO (716)872-4303 '( %%^ ^4^ ^ % 1;' 180 RICHMOND. 5i; the locust, the catalpa, the pride of China, and the Taheitan mulberry. The ride into the town, from Char- lottesville over the downs, is striking ; and the distant view across the river is not less so. The buildings and streets are seen running up the sides of the hills, relieved and softened by the abundant and spreading foliage. The more important erections cluster round its summit ; and on it ' head stands, above every thing, the State- House, spreading its noble portico to the sun. Few spots can do more honour to a city. I had designed to remain here over the Sabbath ; but, on learning that a camp-meeting was about to be held on the Northern Neck, I resolved at once to move forward, as I might not find another opportunity. This left me only one clear day at Richmond ; ind I am indebted to many kind friends, especially to Mr. Burr, and the Rev. Mr. Taylor, for assisting me to make the best use of my time here. This place, like Charlottesville, has undergone a great change in the last thirty years. At that time there were only one or two neglected Episcopal places of worship. The people were all given up to worldliness or infidelity. The influence of Jeflerson was felt also here, and it was felt as a blight on all religious sentiment. Slavery had, however, done a greater mischief. Now there are thirteen places of worship, and 1,000 children in the Sabbath schools. The blacks are not allowed their own places of worship ; and the Baptist and Methodist congregations are mostly composed of them. A number of Jews reside here. They are not persecuted, nor any way disqualified on account of their religious persuasion ; and the conse- quence is, that they forget their faith, intermarry, and are losing their personal distinctions. I attended a prayer-meeting at the church where my late esteemed friend and correspondent. Dr. Rice, labour- ed successfully for many years. It was now without a pastor. The last minister, excellent as I know him to be, had pressed, in his great anxiety for usefulness, the subject of revivals too far ; and it produced a reaction unfavourable to his comfort and continuance. RICHMOND. 181 la, and the , from Char- the distant uildings and ills, relieved ing foliage, its summit ; ;, the State- sun. Few ibbath; but, io be held on )ve forward, ["his left me indebted to ind the Rev. St use of my gone a great e there were of worship. or infidelity. i, and it was Slavery had, i are thirteen the Sabbath OMm places angregations Jews reside r disqualified d the conse- irry, and are L where my lice, labour- w without a mow him to •fulness, the a reaction t visited also, with interest, the mother church of the town. It is Episcopal, and supposed to be the oldest in Virginia. It is a copy of one of our village churches, and is built of materials, and surrounded by a brick wall, which have been sent across from the father-land. Here is also what is called the Monumental Church ; its por- tico is the sepulchre for nearly sixty persons, who perish- ed in the conflagration of the theatre years since. By- the-by, the theatre has never flourished here from that time ; I saw the existing one in circumstances promising to pass out of existence shortly. Here also was a stri- king evidence of the readiness with which the dogmas of the Unitarian and the Universalist will symbolize. They had a church here erected by them jointly, for a common act of worship ; and the peculiarity of each party was attempted to be shown by the following inscription, that the public might not doubt the equality of the partner- ship : — ERECTED IN 1831, AND DEDICATED TO THE ONE OOD, AND TO JESUS CHRIST, THE SAVIOUR OF THE WORLD. Richmond, however, is still the great mart of slavery ; and the interests of morality and religion suffer from this cause. Several persons of the greatest wealth, and therefore of the greatest consideration in the town, are known slave-dealers ; and their influence, in addition to the actual traffic, is of course unfavourable. The sale of slaves is as common, and produces as little sensa ion, as that of cattle. It occurs in the main street, and be- fore the door of the party who is commissioned to make the sale. The following is an advertisement of sale which appeared while I was there : — "By J. & S. Cosby & Co. "Trust Sale. " By virtue of a deed of trust, executed to the sub- 16 182 THUNDER-STORM. iU I ^ ',1 i 1:1 I I: scriber by Hirain Chiles, I shall proceed to sell for cash, at the Auction Store of J. & S. Cosby & Co., on Mon- day, the 4th of August next, the following property, to wit : — Eliza, Henry, Nancy, Monarchy, Tom, and Ed- ward, and six feather-beds and bedsteads, with furni- ture. "Joseph Mayo, Trustee. "J. & S. Cosby & Co., Auctioneers." I had a desire to stay and witness this sale ; but as I must have sacrificed the greater to the less in doing so, I kept by my determination to go forward. I left, therefore, at two o'clock on the Friday for Fredericksburg. The road was flat and uninteresting ; the weather very hot, and* we had to travel all night. Moreover, the coach was quite full, and not supplied with the most agreeable company. One of them was proud of telling us that he was an unlucky dog, and had lost 20,000 dollars by bad debts. Another was exclaiming against the brutes who would not be accommodating in a coach, that he might engross the accommodation to him- self. There was a young woman with us, of decent but independent habits, and they had pleasure in bantering her. She, however, was a match for them. They thought, in one instance, they had got the laugh against her; and she exclaimed, without •confusion, and with much shrewdness, " I should like now what you are laughing at, for then I could lau)^ . ,oo." They were very desirous of knowing what I was ; and at length they proposed that they should guess what each one was, and whence, with the hope of getting round to me. The guessing went round till all were disposed of except me. I was prepared for the attack, but it was not made. They looked at each other, and at me, but no one ventur- ed on the question. In the morning a most heavy thunder-storm came on, and attended us into the town. We had had several of these, and of wind-storms, lately. One of them, near a spot I passed, must have been a tremendous hurricane. I STEAMBOAT. 183 ill for cash, )., on Mon- property, to 1, and Ed- with fumi- oneers. n 3 ; but as I doing so, I Friday for interesting ; 1 all night, jpplied with I was proud nd had lost exclaiming odatingin a [tion to him- f decent but n bantering lem. They ugh against and with rhat you are They were length they ne was, and me. The except me. not made. one ventur- tn came on, I several of em, near a hunicane. It tore down numerous buildings, prostrated the trees in its course, and killed sixteen or twenty persons. So soon as the storm permitted, I made my way to the house of Mr. Wilson, the esteemed Presbyterian minister of this place. He occupies the house that the mother of Washington lived in, and her remains lie in the gar- den attached. Here a bed, and every other domestic accommodation, were immediately placed at my use. My friend was very desirous that I should stay over the Sabbath, but when he found that my mind was otherwise, he was equally ready to help me on my way, except that he thought the direction in which J. was going was at the time very unhealthy ; and he would only part with me on a promise that I would, by writing, assure him of my welfare. We spent a very pleasant, and to me profit- able, evening together, and I have seldom parted with a friend in such haste, and with such regret. . 1 1 LETTER XVn. My dear Friend, I HAD thought that I should be able to pass to the camp-ground at pleasure ; but I found that if I went at all, I must leave by a boat tliat started the next morning. I had also concluded that I should arrive by it in time for the afternoon services, but in the event I was in this also diisappoiuted. Early in the morning I went on board the steamer to pass down the Rappahannoc. It is what is called a religious boat. There are Bibles strewed in the men's cabin, and a subscription-box for the Episcopal Tract Society ; and in the ladies' cabin there are fancy articles on sale for missions. But this religious boat had not ceased to run on the Sunday, nor had the captain wholly broken himself of swearing. "He had wished," he •i"^r 184 RAPPAHANNOC. : ! I; M: • said, " to avoid the Sunday ; he had tried all days, and none would suit so well ; and it saved a day to men of business ;" — a sort of reasoning familiar in more coun- tries than one. The day was fine and tranquil, and the atmosphere was lighter and cooler in consequence of the storm. There were but few persons on board, and they employed themselves in reading, singing, and conversation, while I sat mostly apart, enjoying the quiet of nature, and of my own thoughts. The sail down the river was beautiful. The stream was narrower than is usual, and winds in its course ; the land swells and falls prettily, while the illim- itable forest runs over its whole surface. We were, however, frequently stopping at different points of this forest to take in passengers, which assured us that there was habitation, though there were no appearances of it. Those, on this occasion, who were taken in, were reli- gious persons ; and at noon most of them left us. I afterward found that they had left for the camp-ground, and by a nearer course. As I was quite a stranger, and as wherever I landed I should still require lO be conveyed to the interior, I judged it safest to adhere to my direc- tions, even if they should not have been the best. As we went onward, the Rappahannoc expanded beautifully before us, offering to our admiration a variety of creeks and bays, reposing in the glowing lights of the sun and the cool shades of the forest; while, on reach- ing deeper waters, an immense shoal of porpoises joined us, and for miles amused themselves by darting and plunging before the head of our vessel, with amazing velocity. At length we came to Merry Point, the place to which I had been directed, and which is occupied by Mr. Jesse, of whom I was assured I should readily re- ceive any aid I might require. The dwelling, and two or three merry negroes, were all that appeared. The captain, in my behalf, addressed the principal of them. " Is your master at home ?" — ^" No." — " Is your mistress at home ?" — " O, no— all gone to the camp." — « Well," said the captain, " here's a gentleman that SCENERY. 185 , days, and to men of noie coun- itmosphere the storm, y employed ion, while I and of my s beautiful, winds in its le the illim- We were, )ints of this ts that there ances of it. a, were reli- left us. I amp-ground, stranger, and be conveyed to my direc- best. c expanded on a variety lights of the e, on reach- toises joined darting and ith amazing it, the place occupied by readily re- ig, and two led. principal of I' — " Is your the camp." itleman that wants him — can you take him in 1" — " 0, yes," said the merry and assured fellow, '* all as well as if master was here this minute, and give him all he wants." Notwith- standing this assurance, I was much perplexed. On the one hand, I must leave the boat here ; there was no other house to which I could apply ; and I could not get over to the camp-ground that evening. On the other hand, I shrunk from making free with a residence on the mere concurrence of the servants, and in the absence of the head of the family. However, I thought of Vir- ginian hospitality, and reconciled myself to going on shore. I was quickly met by a young man, a relative of the family, who gave me welcome, and contributed to assure me in accepting the acconmiodations of the house. When I had leisure to look around me, I felt interested in my place of sojourn. The dwelling was a neat cot- tage, having about six rooms, and kept nicely painted, with a few ornaments in the best room, such as side- board and timepiece, imported from Baltimore, which in- dicated property, and a taste for improvement on the part of the possessor. Behind it was a small clearance, redeemed from the forest, and under good cultivation; before it, a grass-plot, enclosed with a hedge of the althea. On the one side was a cabin for the use of the slaves ; and on the other a handsome walnut, over- shadowing the warmer aspect of the cottage. The land fell away in slopes to the river, and was adorned by the oak, the acacia, the catalpa, and the woodbine ; and the river here wound round the point, and formed a lovely creek, which ran into land, and was lost in the woods. On the opposite banks of the creek was another cottage, surmounted by poplars, and surrounded by fruit-trees and corn-fields, which ran down the verdant banks, and dipped their feet in the placid waters. These were all the signs of human habitation ; and all around you stood, in awful silence and majesty, the eternal forest. The declining sun gleamed athwart the scene, giving depth to the shadows of the woods, and illuminating the bosom 16* 1 1 ■ 186 HOSPITALITY. 1, M i :' s Pf! n I: of the waters. But all was still — perfectly still ; except where the light canoe was gliding like magic over the creek, and leaving not a ripple behind. I was called from this lovely picture by the announce- ment of supper or tea. A small clean napkin was placed on the table, and there were spread over it coffee, hot bread, butter, bacon, molasses, and a bowl of curds and whey. A female slave attended, to fan you, and to supply your wants. On retiring to bed, I was introduced to a small room in the roof of the cottage, but very nicely provided with all I could want. My attendant was a little black girl. She glanced a quick eye on every thing, to ascertain that all was right, and then stood in silence, looking to me for commands. She seemed surprised, and did not at first understand me when I dismissed her ; from the circumstance, I suppose, that they are accustomed to render small attentions which we do not expect. My little slave was also the first thing that met my eye in the early morning. I had thought I had secured my door ; but she had managed to enter, and when I awoke she was creeping, with shoeless foot, over the floor. Her duty then was to supply you with fresh water ; as, by standing through the night, it becomes disagreeably hot. My young friend had met my wishes, in providing for a movement towards the camp in the morning ; and by six o'clock we had breakfasted, and had vaulted into our saddles. We were, however, scarcely on our way before we fell in with Mr. Jesse himself. He had heard of my arrival ; had feared I should not be able to get over ; and had lef%, at break of day, to fetch me. This was, indeed, very kind ; it put me at my ease, and made the way plain and pleasant to me. But how it could have happened that they should hear of my coming, greatly surprised me. Mr. Jesse explained, that some person at the camp had been in Richmond when I was there, and had overheard me express an intention to go. This was enough to awaken attention ; and I found that they r CAMP-MEETING. 187 still; except igic over the le announce- napkin was ver it coffee, owl of curds 1 yon, and to 1 small room provided with ie black girl, to ascertain !e, looking to , and did not er ; from the :cu8tomed to expect. My let my eye in I secured my vhen I awoke irer the floor, h water ; as, disagreeably providing for ning ; and by ulted into our ur way before had heard of 3 to get over ; This was, md made the it could have ming, greatly some person I I was there, to go. This )und that they had been expecting me daily ; that the ministers had held an exercise of prayer, that my arrival might be an occasion of profit, and my judgment of their meeting without prejudice. So soon as my kind friend had refreshed himself and his horse, we started again. We were now on the Northern Neck, an isthmus of various width, and some 150 miles long, which is separated from the mainland of Virginia by the Rappahannoc. We had twelve miles to travel, and chiefly through pine barrens ; reaches of land that are so denominated, because they will only bear pine. The morning was bright and elastic ; I had an interesting companion, and my expectations were raised with the prospects before me. As we advanced, the land undulated pleasantly, the soil improved, and other timber of loftier growth appeared. When evidently approaching the spot, my eye pierced through the forest in search of some indications. We got at last into less frequented paths ; wound again and again round the clustering trees and opposing stumps, and then came to what I regarded as the signs of the object sought. There we^e, under some trees, pens for the safety of horses ; then there were carriages of all descriptions, appearing with horses and oxen, secured and at rest, and occasionally a negro in attendance on them. Then you passed by a large log-house, which was erected for the time, to supply lodging and food to such as needed them. Now you saw, in several directions, the parts of cabins, made of the pine-tree, and of the same colour, and only distinguished from it by the horizontal lines in which it ran ; and presently you found yourself at the entrance of all you wished to see. ' There were in lines, intersected by the trees, a number of tents composed of log-wood, forming a quadrangle of about 180 feet. In the centre of the further line, in this square, there was a stand for the accommodation of the preachers, which would contain twelve or four- teen persons. Behind this were stems of trees laid down as seats for the negroes, running off in radiating • ( "\ — 188 CAMP-MEETINO. il I i lines, and closed by some tents for their use, and forni' ing the segment of a circle. Before the stand, or pulpit, a rail was carried round the first five or six seats, which we called the altar; and seats, composed of tree-stems, filled up the centre of the square. Within, without, everywhere, the oak, the chestnut, and the fir appeared, and of finest growth ; only those within the quadrangle were cleared of underwood, and trimmed up to aid the sight, so that they resembled the beautiful pillars of a cathedral ; while their lofty heads, unpruned by the hand of man, united, and made a fohated ceiling, such as no cathedral could approach, and through which the blue sky and bright sun were glancing. It was now the hour of morning worship. The pul- pit was full ; the seats were covered with waiting wor- shippers. I approached the stand ; and was welcomed by the brethren. We rose, and united in a hymn of praise. I had never, in such circumstances, joined in offering such worship. I could scarcely tell what sen- sations possessed me. I hope I was not void of those which are devotional, but I was chiefly filled for the moment with those of wonder. When I looked round on the scene which had broken so suddenly upon me, every thing was so novel, so striking, and so interesting, as to appear like the work of enchantment, and to re- quire time fully to realize. But I must endeavour to give you some of the ser- vices in detail, as you will desire exact information. The singing to which I have referred, was followed by prayer and a sermon. The text was, " If God spared not his own Son," &c. — The preacher was a plain man, and without education ; and he had small regard either to logic or grammar. He had, however, as is common to such persons, an aspiration after high-sounding terms and sentiments, which stood in strange opposition to the general poverty and incorrectness of his expressions. The proposition, for instance, raised on his text was this : — That the gift of Christ to sinners is the thing set forth with most life, animation, and eloquence, of any use, and fomi' stand, or pulpit, lix seats, which 1 of tree-stems, /"ithin, without, tie fir appeared, the quadrangle id up to aid the iful pillars of a nedby the hand Ing, such as no which the blue hip. The pul- h waiting wor- was welcomed in a hymn of mces, joined in f tell what sen- )t void of those r filled for the I looked round jenly upon me, so interesting, ent, and to re- me of the ser- information. is followed by f God spared IS a plain man, regard either as is common lounding terms position to the expressions. his text was s is the thing quence, of any CAMP-MEETING. 189 thing in the world. Such a proposition, though badly propounded, was of course above such a man ; but though what he said did but little for his proposition, it was said with earnestness and pious feeUng, and it told on the plain and serious portions of his audience. He was followed by a brother of higher qualifications, who took up the close of his subject, and addressed it to the conscience with skill and effect. The exhortation was terminated by an invitation to come and take a seat within the altar. These seats were, when wanted, in other words, the anxious seats ; two of them were cleared, and a suitable hymn was sung, that persons might have time to comply. Very lew came ; chiefly a mother with her boy, who had previously seemed to court notice. The lad had- indulged in noisy crying and exclamation ; he was in the hand of an indiscreet parent, and had not been sufficiently discouraged by the ministers. The exhortations, and then the singing, were renewed ; but still with small effect, as to the use of the prepared seats ; and so this service closed. Whatever may be the claims of the anxious seat, it was a hazardous ex- periment, where it was evident the previous services had produced no deep and controlling impression. The afternoon service was very similar in arrangement and in effect. The text was, " Let the wicked man for- sake his way," «&c. ; but the preacher certainly made a feeble use of a powerful passage. It was interrupted, too, by a noisy and intemperate man, who had found his way hither ; yet it was followed by exhortation superior to itself, and an urgent appeal to the people to come for- ward and separate themselves. The results were not better than before. The only apology for thus pressing under unfavourable circumstances was, that the meetings had been held now for three days ; that the solemn ser- vices of the Sabbath had just passed over the people ; and the worthy ministers were anxious for visible fruit, not only as arising from the present appeal, but from past impressions. These were the more public and regular services ; but I' ' 190 CAMP-MEETINO. ! 1 Other ongagemonts were always fulfilling. The ministen were invited by their friends to the several tents, to ex- hort, and sing, and pray, so that when they ceased in one place, they were renewed in another. And at all times those who liked to gather within the 'tar, and sing, were allowed to do so ; and as, when the. ' 'ere weary, oth- ers came up and supplied their places, the singing was without ceasing. What you cannot escape wearies you. The services had been long, and not very interesting ; and still the singing was continued. After getting some refreshments with kind friends, I was glad to stroll away into the for- est, and to ruminate on what I had seen and heard. Now that I had leisure to admire, it was a lovely evening. Through many a green alley I wandered ; and often did I stop and gaze on those exquisite combinations of light, shade, and picture, which forest scenery suppUes on a fair summer evening. In all my wanderings, the singing fol- lowed me, and was a clew to my return ; but it now formed a pleasing accompaniment to my solitary walk, for it did not force itself on the ear, but rose and fell softly, sweetly, on the evening breeze. Soon, however, the hoarse notes of the horn vibrated through the air, and summoned me to return. It was the notice for worship at sundown ; and as there is little twilight here, the nightfall comes on suddenly. I has- tened to obey the call, and took my place with the breth- ren on the preachers' stand. The day had now expired, and with it the scene was entirely changed, as if by magic, and it was certainly very impressive. On the stand were about a dozen ministers, and over their heads were sus- pended several three-pronged lamps, pouring down their radiance on their heads, and surrounding them with such lights and shadows as Rembrandt would love to copy. Behind the stand were clustered about 300 negroes, who, with their black faces and white dresses thrown into par- tial lights, were a striking object. Before us was a full- sized congregation collected, more or less revealed, as they happened to be near or distant from the points of illumi trees sccm( Aroun were of pin ingup amazii ving li thing tiince 'llcring t sparks shot a into da more p )cared was hi( It was )e dim! if it ros vaulted cealed 1 dwelt t limits, 1 unboun^ to whic now the ima But sustain now sli were ft one, wl terical smiling sort of at mee Hov il- g. The ministers veral tents, to ex- :hey ceased in one And at all times tar, and sing, were " 'ere weary, oth- , the singing was u. The services ng ; and still the joine refreshments away into the for- 1 and heard. Now I lovely evening, ed ; and often did ibinations of light, ' supplies on a fair ^s, the singing fol- turn; but it now my solitary walk, ose and fell softly, the horn vibrated return. It was as there is little addenly. I has- e with the breth- lad now expired, jd, as if by magic, 3n the stand were heads were sus- ■uring down their r them with such d love to copy. 00 negroes, who, thrown into par- >re us was a full- ess revealed, as n the points of CAMP-MEETINO. 191 ;" Mil cr illumination. Over the people were suspended from the trees a number of Knuill lamps, which, in the distance, seemed like stars sparkling between tlioir branches. Around the congregation, and within the line of the tents, were placed some elevated tripods, on which large fires of pine wood were burning, cracking, blazing ; and shoot- ng upward like sacrificial flames to heaven. They gave amazing power to the picture, by casting a flood of wa- ving light on the objects near to them, and leaving every liing else in comparative obscurity. Still at greater dis- iince might be seen, in several directions, the dull flick- jpjring flame of the now neglected domestic fire ; and the ! ; sparks emitted from it, together with the firefly, rose and ' shot across the scene like meteors, and then dropped into darkness. Never was darkness made more visible, more present. All the lights that were enkindled ap- icared only to have this effect; as everywhere more was hidden than seen. If the eye sought for the tents, it was only here and there that the dark face of one could ie dimly seen ; the rest was wrapped in darkness ; and f it rose with the trees around you, the fine verdant and vaulted roof which they spread over you was mostly con- cealed by the mysterious and thickening shadows which dwelt there. Then, if you would pierce beyond these limits, there lay around you and over you, and over the unbounded forest that enclosed you, a world of darkness, to which your little illuminated spot was as nothing. I ilinow of no circumstances having more power to strike the imagination and the heart. But to the exercises. The singing, which had been sustained in all the interval by some younger persons, now showed its results. Two or three young women were fainting under the exhaustion and excitement ; and one, who was reported to me as a Methodist, was in hys- terical ecstasy, raising her hands, rolling her eyes, and smiling and muttering. It appeared that she courted this sort of excitement as many do a dram, and was frequent at meetings of this character, for the sake of enjoying it. However, after disposing of this slight interruption, the 4 ^.^. 192 CAMP-MEETING. h. Uif- i| t 1 regular service began. It was to be composed of exhor- tation and prayer; and it was excellently conducted. The leading ministers, who had been wearied by the claims of the Sabbath, had evidently reserved themselves for this period. The first address referred to the past ; the effort which had been made ; the results which ought to follow, but which had not followed, and which the speaker feared would not follow. It was closed by an affectionate expression of concern that they would now show that it had not been in vain. The next exhortation was on conversion. Some skilful and orthodox distinc- tions were established on the subject, as it involves the agency of the Spirit and the agency of man. It was dis- criminative, but it was plain and pungent ; and threw all the responsibility of perversity and refusal on the sinner. It made a strong impression. The third exhortation was on indifference and despond- ency. The subject was well timed and well treated. The speaker combated these evils as likely to be a pre- ventive in most persons in coming to a decision ; and he made a wise use of evangelical truth for this purpose. He supported the other addresses by an earnest appeal to separate themselves, and show that they were resolved to rank on the Lord's side. The people were evidently much more interested than they had been ; and the preachers were desirous of bringing them to an issue, Exhortation and singing were renewed ; and it was pro- posed that they should go down and pass among the peo- ple, for the purpose of conversing with them, and indu- cing them to come forward. By these personal applica- tions and persuasions, a considerable number were in- duced to come forward ; and fervent prayer of a suitable character was offered in their behalf. It was already late, and here, at least, the service should have stopped. This was the opinion of the wiser and elder brethren, but they did not press it ; and those of weaker mind and stronger nerve thought that the work had only just begun. It was wished that I should retire, but I was desirous of witnessing the scene. Other exhorta- ►: a CAMP-MEETING. 193 mposed of exhor* jntly conducted, wearied by the 3rved themselves rred to the past ; suits which ought I, and which the as closed by an they would now- next exhortation orthodox distinc- s it involves the nan. It was dis- it ; and threw all sal on the sinner. nee and despond- nd well treated, kely to be a pre- decision ; and he for this purpose, in earnest appeal ley were resolved e were evidently I been ; and the Lcm to an issue, and it was pro- ;s among the peo- 1 them, and indu- personal applica- number were in- t lyer of a suitable east, the service I nion of the wiser ) it ; and those of that the work had should retire, but Other exhorta- tions and prayers, of a lower but more noisy character, were made, with endless singing; favourite couplets would be taken up and repeated without end. The effect was various, but it was not good ; some, with their feel- ings worn out, had passed the crisis, and it was in vain to seek to impress them ; while others were unduly and unprofitably excited. None discovered this more than the blacks. They separated themselves from the general service, and sought their own preacher and anxious seat. A stand was pres- ently fixed between two trees ; a preacher was seen ap- pearing and disappearing between them, as his violent gesticulation caused him to lean backwards or forwards. The blacks had now things to their mind, and they pressed round the speaker, on their feet or their knees, with ex- tended hands, open lips, and glistening eyes : while the strong lights of a tripod, close to which they had assem- bled, fell across the scene, and gave it great interest and power. As the scenes on either side the stand were not dumb show, the evil was, that the voices of the parties speak- ing met each other, and made confusion ; and as either party raised his voice, to remedy the evil, it became worse. To myself, placed at the centre of observation, this had a neutralizing, and sometimes a humorous effect ; but to the two congregations, which were now reduced in numbers, it produced no distraction : they were severally engrossed, if not with their particular minister, with their particular feelings. It was now considerably past eleven o'clock ; 1 thought I had seen all the forms which the subject was likely to take ; and I determined to answer the request of my friends, and retire. I had been assured that a bed was reserved for me at the preachers' tent, and I now went in search of it. The tent is constructed like the rest, and is about eighteeti feet by fourteen. As the ministers are expected to take their meals at the other tents, this is prepared as a lodg- ing-room. An inclined shelf, about six feet wide and four high, runs along the entire side of it, and it is sup- Vol. I.— I 17 194 CAMP-MEETINCr. ■ ) i 11 plied with six beds. I chose the one in the farther cor- ner, in the hope of escaping interruption ; as tho bed next to me was already occupied by a person asleep. I re- lieved myself of my upper garments, and laid myself down in my weariness to rest. The other beds soon got filled. But still the brethren were coming to seek ac- commodation. One of them crept up by the side of the person next to me ; and as the bed would only suit one, he really lay on the margin of his and mine. Thus dis- composed, my resolution was immediately taken not to sleep at all. There was, however, no need of this proud resolution, for that night there was to be no sleep for me. There were still other parties to come, and beds to be provided. After this there was the singing renewed, and still renewed, till youth and enthusiasm were faint and weary, and then it died away. Still there remained the barking of the watch-dogs, the sawing of the kat-e-dids and locusts, and the snoring of my more favoured com- panions, and these were incessant. Sometimes I found diversion in listening to them, as they mingled in the ear, and in deciding which was most musical, most mel- ancholy ; and frequently I turned away in weariness, and fixed my eye on the open crevices of the hut, looking for the first approach of day; and, in my impatience, as often mistaking for it the gleaming lights of the pine fires. When the sun actually rose, the horn blew for prayers. To me, all restless as I had been, it was a joyful sound. I waited till others had dressed, that I might do so with greater quiet. I stole away into the forest, and was much refreshed by the morning breeze and fresh air. It was a very pleasing and unexpected sight to observe, as you wandered in supposed solitariness, here and there an individual half concealed, with raised countenance and hands, worshipping the God of heaven, and occasionally two or three assembled for the same purpose, and agree- ing to ask the same blessings from the same Father. This was, indeed, to people the forest with sacred things and associations. On my return, the ministers renewed their kind appli- ;<' CAMP-MEETING. 195 he farther crof- as tho bed next asleep. I re- el laid myself - beds soon got g to seek ac- the side of the only suit one, e. Thus dis- ' taken not to d of this proud > sleep for me. ind beds to be r renewed, and vere faint and ! remained the the kat-e-dids favoured com- etimes I found lingled in the cal, most mel- iveariness, and lut, looking for mpatience, as the pine fires. w for prayers, joyful sound, fht do so with rest, and was fresh air. It to observe, as 3 and there an intenance and I occasionally se, and agree- same Father, sacred things iir kind appli- cation to me to preach on the morning of this day. I begged to be excused, as I had had no rest, and had taken cold, and was not prepared to commit myself to the peculiarities of their service, and which they might deem essential. They met again : and unanimously agreed to press it on me ; "it should be the ordinary service, and nothing more ; and as an expectation had been created by my presence, many would come, under its influence, and it would place any other minister at great disadvantage.'" My heart was with this people and the leading pastors, and I consented to preach. The usual prayer-meeting was held at eight o'clock. It was conducted by Mr. Jeter. Prayers were offered for several classes, and with good effect. To me it was a happy introduction to the more public service to come. I wandered away again into my beloved forest, to pre- serve my impressions, and to collect my thoughts. At eleven o'clock the service began. I took my place on the stand ; it was quite full. The seats, and all the ave- nues to them, were also quite full. Numbers were standing, and for the sake of being within hearing, were contented to stand. It was evident that rumour had gone abroad, and that an expectation had been created, that a stranger would preach this morning, for there was a great influx of people, and of the most respectable class which this country furnishes. There were not less than 1,500 persons assembled. Mr. Taylor offered fervent and suitable prayer. It remained for me to preach. I can only say that I did so with eariiestness and freedom. I soon felt that I had the attention and confidence of the congregation, and this gave me confidence. I took care, in passing, as my subject allowed, to withdraw my sanc- tion from any thing noisy and exclamatory ; and there was, through the discourse, nothing of the kind ■ but there was a growing attention and stillness over the people. The closing statements and appeals were evidently fal- ling en the conscience and heart, with still advancing power. The people generally leaned forward, to catch what was said. Many rose from their seats ; and many« I 2 'Ssp: 196 CAMP-MEETING. 1/ i Stirred with grief, sunk down, as if to hide themselves from observation ; but all was perfectly still. Silently the tear fell; and silently the sinner shuddered. I ceased. Nobody moved. I looked round to the minis- teis for some one to give out a hymn. No one looked at me — no one moved. Every moment, the silence, the stillness, became more solemn and overpowering. Now, here and there, might be heard suppressed sobbing arising on the silence. But it could be suppressed no longer — the fountains of feeling were burst open, and one universal wail sprung from the people and ministers, while the whole mass sunk down on their knees, as if imploring some one to pray. I stood resting on the desk, over- whelmed like the people. The presiding pastor arose, and, throwing his arms round my neck, exclaimed, '^Pray, brother, pray ! I fear many of my charge will be found at the left hand of the Judge ! Oh, pray, brother, pray for us !" and then he cast himself on the floor with his brethren, to join in the prayer. But I could not pray l I must have been more or less than man to have uttered prayer at that moment ! Nor was it necessary. All, in that hour, were intercessors with God, with tears, and cries, and groans unutterable. So soon as I could conunand my state of feeling, I tried to offer prayer. My broken voice rose gradually on the troubled cries of the people, and gradually they subsided, so that they could hear and concur in the com- mon supplications. It ceased, and the people rose. We seemed a changed people to each other. No aiie appeared disposed to move from the spot, and yet no one seemed disposed for ordinary exercises. Elder Taylor moved forward and remarked — "That it was evident nothing but prayer suited them at this time. And as so many had been impressed by the truth, who had not be- fore, he wished, if they were willing, to bring it to the test of prayer." He therefore proposed that if such per- sons wished to acknowledge the impression received, and to join in prayer for their personal salvation, they should 9how it by kneeling down, and he would pray with them^ I mt i CAMP-MEETING. 197 dde themselves still. Silently shuddered. I id to the minis- No one looked the silence, the wering. Now, sobbing arising led no longer — id one universal ters, while the as if imploring the desk, over- ig pastor arose, claimed, "Pray, e will be found y, brother, pray e floor with his :ould not pray I to have uttered issary. All, in with tears, and te of feeling, I rose gradually gradually they ;ur in the com- s people rose, rther. No one and yet no one Elder Taylor was evident e. And as so ho had not be- bring it to the lat if such per- il received, and in, they should ray with ihfixa.^ i In an instant, as if instinct with one spirit, the whole con- gregation sunk down to the ground. It is much, but not too much, to say, that the prayer met the occasion. When the people again rose, one of the brethren was about to address them ; but I thought nothing could be so salutary to them as their own reflections and prayers, and I ventuied to request that he would dismiss the meeting. Thus closed the most remarkable service I have ever witnessed. It has been my privilege to see more of the solemn and powerful effect of divine truth on large bodies of people than many ; but I never saw any thing equal to this ; so deep, so overpowering, so universal. And this extraordinary effect was produced by the Divine blessing on the ordinary means ; for none other were used, and one third of the people had been present at none other. I shall never forget that time — that place ; and as often as I recur to it, the tear is still ready to start from its retirement. The immediate effect was as good as it was conspicu- ous. At first there was such tenderness on the people that they looked silently on each other, and could hardly do it without weeping ; and afterward, when they had obtained more self-possession, there was such meekness, such gentleness, such humility, such kindness, such a de- sire to serve one another by love, and such calm and holy joy sitting on their countenances, as I had never seen in one place, and by so many persons. It realized, more than any thing I had known, the historical descrip- tion of the primitive saints ; and there was much in the present circumstances which assisted the impression. It was indeed beautifully true — " that fear came on every soul ; and all that believed were together, and had all things common; and they continued with one accord, breaking bread from house to house ; and did eat their meat with gladness and singleness of heart, praising God !" Besides this happy effect on those who had already be- lieved, there were many in an awakened and inquiring 17* 198 DEACON N0RRI9. m 1 » I iUf I ( state which demanded attention. Among them was a reii' resentative of the State Government, who acknowledged that he had always resisted the truth till then, but hoped it had overcome him at last. Some of these cases, of course, came under my own knowledge ; and all the ministers showed them, as, indeed, they had uniformly done, great attention and solicitude. Among other expressions of kind and gentle feeUng to myself, it was deemed impossible to let me remain another night in the tents, since I had not been able to procure rest. Many were eager that I should be re- ceived at their dwelling; but in the end I engaged to go with Deacon Norris, as it was at no great distance from the camp, and as the simple piety and warm heart of this aged and venerable man had previously won my con- fidence. I had agreed to go after the evening service ; but my considerate friend endeavoured to persuade me to go be- fore, by representing that I must need rest, and that it would not be so safe to track their way through the dark woods after sundown. I felt that it would be less suit- able to his age to be exposed so late and in the dark, and so consented to do as he should suggest. So, after taking repast, and joining in prayer with a cluster of our friends beneath a leafy alcove at the back of one of the tents, we started for Deacon Norris's resi- dence. His lad drove me in a chaise, while he rode be- side with a parent's care, to see that all was done well. He exchanged pleasant words with me as occasion allowed, and ever and anon was giving his cautions to the driver : — " Now, boy, mind those stumps — take care of those roots — keep a tight rein here" — and the whole w'as done in evident and unaffected reference to me. When we alighted, he received me to his house with that sim- plicity and kindness which are the essence of all true politeness. He took my hand, and with a beaming face and tearful eye, he said, " Now, sir, this is your home while you stay, and the longer you stay the more I shall be honoured. A plain place, but all of it, servants, DEACON NORRIS. 199 them was a rep* acknowledged hen, but hoped these cases, of i ; and all the had uniformly entle feeling to let me remain ot been able to should be re- engaged to go t distance from rm heart of this ' won my con- 3rvice ; but my le me to go be- :est, and that it trough the dark Id be less suit- in the dark, and I prayer with a ^ve at the back I Norris's resi- dle he rode be- vas done well. B as occasion cautions to the —take care of the whole was o me. When with that sim- ice of all true , beaming face is your home e more I shall ' it, servants, house, garden, is yours. Only make me happy by letting me know what you want." I had small reply to offer. All this was said in the deep and wild forest, and the manner and expression would not have dishonoured St. James's; it affected me with tenderness and surprise. While this occurred, we were standing on the verdant sod which surrounded the cottage, and was not worn off even by the passage to the door. The day had been hot, and we had been heated, and the temptation was to enjoy the evening breeze. My friend's ^cottage was a frame-building, whitened, well suited to the occupant, and to the spot where it stood. It had neither bolt nor lock to any one of its doors that I could find. About 100 yards on the descent stood a hut, in which his slaves were accommodated, and the interval was covered with short grass, kept cool and verdant by the fine separated trees which overshadowed most of it. On the other side of the cottage was a garden abounding in fruits for the little family. The ground fell off very pleasantly trom the spot where you stood, so as to give you the command of the scene, and to compose a beautiful prospect. Most of the land in one direction was the domain of my friend ; the portion near you being adorned with Indian corn, and the distant parts clothed with the dark and solemn pine. When I had explored the garden and fields, my friend arranged a little table and stools at the door of the cot- tage, and before the best part of the prospect, for our ac- commodation. Here we were supplied with plates, and a fine melon from the garden for our repast ; and it was not till the last lingering lights of a glowing day had faded away behind the pine barrens that we ceased to commune with Nature and with each other. In this communion my friend was the chief contribu- tor. He spoke in the fulness of his heart ; and the im- pression will, I trust, long remain with me. He told me of his early days, of his conversion, and of the many years he had been as a pilgrim and a stranger on the earth. He had been married twice ; he lost his last wife seven years since ; and his children were settled far from him 200 DEACON NORRIS. ;•■]: ; . r " Many expected," he said, " as I was living alone, that I should marry again. But no, sir ; at my time of life I think it not good. The husband careth for the things of the wife ; but I wish now to care for the things of the Lord. My great concern is, that I may do the will of the Lord, and look to my latter end with peace and pleasure. I would desire to die and to be with Christ as far better ; but if he should say. Here, I have a little more for you to do on earth, then I would willingly stay and do it. " Then," he continued, after musing, " I am old, but I suffer nothing, and I have many comforts, and I thank God I can enjoy them. But," with a serene smile, " I am looking for something better ; — earth will not do — this is not heaven ! I am far from God here ; and I have sin always with me here to distress and expose me ; but when He shall appear, I shall be like him, for I shall see him as he is !" So he continued, and so was I privi- leged and refreshed. We retired within the cottage ; the slaves, which he treated just as his children, were called in, and we had family worship. I pressed him to engage as usual; and was richly repaid. It was prayer winged with love and thankfulness, and rising to heaven. It brought us closer to each other. After our devotions, rest was thought of ; for these children of Nature retire and rise with the day. He had provided for my accommodation in his own room ; and when every thing had been done as he directed, he went to see with his own eyes that all was right. He attended me to it, and again inquired, and looked about to know if more could be done for my comfort. He had not been long out, when he craved permission to come in again. He had an affectionate manner, and said, " Well, now there is still one thing which I was charged to say to you, and which I must say to you before I can sleep." — « What is that ?" I inquired. " Why," he said, " I have been now in the v^ay forty-seven years — I have seen many powerful meetings in my time— but never any , i? i DEACON NURRIS.- 201 thing like this morning — all, ministers and all — weeping like children — and — now don't say no — and we all want you to preach again to-morrow." — " O, my good friend," I replied, " You really must not make that a request. I have taken my leave, and I have lost my voice by cold, and there are other preachers expecting — ." He drew nearer to me, and checking me as he would his son, he said, " Well, now, my child, don't say you will not — and we'll trust to have you well and willing by to-morrow morning. Is there any thing more I can do for you 1" and then he retired and drew to the door. This was not the last visit that evening from my de- voted friend. When he thought me composed in bed, the door gently opened, he drew together a window which was slightly open, and which he thought better shut, he crept to my side, and thought me asleep ; and with the affectionate attentions of a woman, tucked me in, and whispered the words, " Bless him !" as he left me. At least, he was blessed that night in the generous and holy sentiments which possessed him. I slept peacefully and soundly that night, till I was wakened by the foot- tread of the slave who waited on me. We took breakfast early, and worshipped together, and then went to the camp-ground. Here the subject of preaching was renewed, as it had been by my kind host on our way. But as Dr. Rice had just arrived, and was expected to preach, I was strengthened in my resolution to remain silent. I attended the service, but did not again occupy the stand. I felt as if I could not look on that people for the last time, and command my emotions. When it was closed, I had some confidential conversa- tions with Mr. Jeter. As the hour of my departure pres- sed, I took hasty refreshments ; and begged to meet with the brethren in a final act of prayer. We all knelt — joined in one prayer — in one spirit — a prayer often too big for utterance, but always apprehended by sympa- thy. It is not for description. The carriage waited for us. I entered it. Still we knew not how to go on ; and the friends clustered round 13 202 REMARKS. ^il .'^ I \li ■ !{. i it as though they would provent it. There were many spectators whom I did not know, but who were all inter- ested. There were the brethren with whom I had had sweet fellowship. And there, nearest of all, was my freind, Deacon Norris, true to the last. His first office was, to deposite two fine melons m the carriage ; and his next, to discharge the painful one of saying "Fare- well." He took my hand in both his ; looked up into my face with sorrow — spoke not a word — while the big tear started in his eye, and coursed down his furrowed cheeks. And so we left him — and so we left ihem — still gazing on us to the end. For myself, I left the place as a place where God had been ; and the people, as a people which God had blessed ! i i LETTER XVIH. My dear Friend, The interest which, I doubt not, you have felt in the previous account of the meeting, will dispose you to in- quire how it terminated. I am happy to be able, by a subsequent communication, to satisfy your wishes. My esteemed friend, Mr. Jeter, assures me that the serious- ness and tenderness of the people remained to the last ; and disclosed themselves in very affecting forms on part- ing. He thus writes : — " On Thursday morning our meeting closed. Eternity alone can disclose the results. We have ascertained that between sixty and seventy professed conversion. With many of these I am person- ally acquainted ; and I have every reason that can be furnished to regard them as sincere lovers of our Sa- viour Jesus Christ. The influence of the meeting on the community is regarded as of the most delightful and ele- vated kind. Infidelity has been compelled to shut her mouth ; and vile blasphemers to acknowledge the hand of God !" 'J of 1 a c: the] in ( else desi F nour istin The mam sons riotoi tents ers a posse The ] or till arate super the w ces. the s: such the tei the w many from I ! REMARKS. 203 ere were many ) were all inter- vhom I had had of all, was my His first office 3 carriage ; and saying "Fare- looked up into —while the big vn his furrowed we left them — lyself, I left the and the people, 1 have felt in the ispose you to in- to be able, by a 3ur wishes. My that the serious- lined to the last ; ng forms on part- ay morning our| close the results, xty and seventy | ese I am person- son that can be I )vers of our Sa- le meeting on the | elightful and ele- elled to shut her I wledge the hand Tiius, then, I was supplied, at once, with a specimen of the three great religious pecuharities of this country ; a camp-meeting, a protracted meeting, and a revival ; for they were all included in this meeting. Of what it has in common with other special meetings I shall speak elsewhere ; but of what was peculiar to it, it may be desirable to ofTer a few remarks. From all I have learned of camp-meetings, I may pro- nounce this to have been very well conducted. The ex- isting arrangements were such as to contribute to this. The land on which it was held was purchased as a per- manent station ; and the lands around were held by per- sons friendly to the object, so that they could control riotous and intrusive conduct, if it should appear. The tents remained from season to season, and cost the own- ers about ten dollars each ; and if it happened that the possessor could not attend, he lent his tent to a friend. The poorer or less interested persons came in carriages, or tilted light wagons, which they used as beds. Sep- 1 arate committees were appointed to preserve order ; to superintend the lights and fires ; to regulate the use of the water-springs ; and to arrange for the religious servi- ces. For the last purpose, the ministers present were the standing committee. By these means, and means such as these, strict order was kept on the premises ; and the temptation for the disorderly was cut off. I saw nothing the whole time of indecent and lewd behaviour, though many persons came evidently more from curiosity than from higher motives. With the single exception I have named, I saw not an intemperate person ; nor did I see either wine or spirits on the ground. There was a man about half a mile distant, who had made a venture with a couple of barrels of distilled liquor; but it must have been a bad speculation, for I never observed a single person near him. Spiritual intemperance, too, which is often a far greater evil on these occasions, was kept down by the good sense and right feeling of the leading ministers. On the mer- its of the particular methods I do not now speak ; but, 304 REMARKS. IH |i 1 if they were to be adopted, I know not that tliey could have been used with more moderation or better oflTect. That the anxious seat was too often tried : that there was a disposition sometimes to press it as a test ; that the act of passing among the people for the purpose of personal persuasion had better have been avoided ; and that the ministers had done well if they had limited the services, and especially the continued singing, by which many young persons were doing themselves a double mischief; — are opinions which 1 shall appear to have adopted in the preceding statement, and opinions which ought to be expressed to make it impartial and discrimi- native. But as a whole, I never expect to nidet vv!i< three men who in such circumstances are mure wisely disposed to pursue the good, and to avoid thu incidental evil, than were those on whom rested the chief responsi- bility of the meeting. None of their appeals were to blind or selfish passion. They assailed the heart, in- deed; but it was always through the understanding. They rehed not on manoeuvre nor on sympathy for suc- cess ; they trusted in the light of Truth, clothed by the power of the Spirit, to set the people free, that they might be free indeed ! It is a question often propounded in America, as well as here, — Of what use are camp-meetings ? This is one of those questions which must be answered in submis- sion to circumstances. There may be a state of things in which I should consider them as not only among the things useful, but the things necessary. In the newly- settled parts, where the inhabitants are so few, and are scattered over so large a surface, the ordinary means of worship and instruction can for a time hardly be enjoy- ed; and, in this interval, the cair;. niettin;^ seems an ex- cellent device i'or the gatherinp" uf *n f fople. ^^ 'or such circumstances, the very fa : 1 uib i being brought together, though it were not for religious purposes, would be a decided benefit ; and if it should be connected with some expressions of extravagance which we could not approve, it is nevertheless not to be hastily condemned. JOtRNBy. 206 hat they uould r better effect, ied: that there as a test ; that the purpose of 1 avoided ; and had limited the iging, by which elves a double appear to have opinions which il and discriuii- •t to meet wu'i re more wisely [d thu incidental > chief responsi- ippeals were to d the heart, in- understandiug. mpathy for suc- 1, clothed by the free, that they I imerica, as well % s 1 This is one Bred in submis- i state of things only among the In the newly- so few, and are iinary means of lardly be enjoy- ijT seems an ex- T rople. ^^ '"jr i- being brought purposes, would connected with ;h we could not itily condemned. We cannot conceive the efTect at' l>eing inunurftd m th« deep and solemn forest, month after ,, luh, with littl«or no intercourse with our brethren, nor of the powerful movement of those social sympatliies which have be«n long pent up in the breast, and denied exercise;. But we can understand, that it is better that they should be culled into exercise occasionally, though violently, than \\\;'* t'tey should be allowed to pine away and die out; h.'.\i^9, ui the one case, man would become a barbarous, l^loomy, and selfish misanthrope ; while, in the other, he vould still be kept among social beings, and would be in readiness for better things. Much more than this is done where the sympathies are wedded to rehgious objects ; and the good effiscts bear even more on the future than the present. Where the camp-meeting is really wanted and really useful, it in- terests a careless people in their own moral and religious wants ; and is the natural and general forerunner, an the population thickens, of the school-house, the church, and all the appliances of civil life. You will now, perhaps, be prepared to quit the forest, and attend me on my journey. A missionary student, who was about to go to the Burmese empire, and my original friend, Mr. Jesse, whose kind offices had been unremitted, attended me to the boat: the former with the design of going on to Baltimore. We were just in time, and parted in haste. I was to remain in this con- veyance through the night, and most of the next day ; but, as there was little company, and good accommoda- tions, we were exposed to no inconvenience. The river now expanded into grandeur, and the lovely scenes formed by the fine creeks opening into land are still pres- ent with me, though I must not detain you on their ac- count. Waking or sleeping, however, the scenes which chiefly possessed me were those which I had lately wit- nessed. The next day we entered the Bay ; and still new beauties were before us. It is among the finest waters of this country. The weather was very favourable ; but 18 206 BALTIMORE. I r A^ m it. the temperature continued high. It ranged, as it had done for the last week, from 86° to 90°. As we passed onward, we took in several passengers who were making their way to the city ; and they supplied seme varieties of character and manner. As I sat writing at a small table, part of a melon stood before me, of which I had been partaking. When I laid the knife down, a young man, of genteel but assuming appearance, came up, and took it to assist himself. Had he made any movement towards me, he had been welcome ; as it was, I remark- ed, that the melon was not for public use ; and he laid the knife down and walked away. Another person, of rougher aspect, had some suspi- cions that I had been at the camp-ground ; and he puz- zled himself to know how he could best ascertain this. He came nearer and nearer to me by degrees, till his confidence brought him to the table. There were two or three small books lying on it. He took up one. It was a hymn-book given me at the meeting, and the minister who gave it had written in it both his name and mine. This he thought a famous clew ; and he began his insnaring guesses. " This is yours 1" he said. " Yes," was the answer. " A present, I guess 1" — " It has that appearance," I said. " Then you know Mr. and have been to the ground V Thus awkwardly, and, as some would say, rudely, did he contrive to get a little chat about the camp-meeting, which, in this region, con- stituted the principal news of the day. He was, not- withstanding, a well-meaning and religious man. On reaching my inn at Baltimore, I sat down at the table d'hote, which was just ready, and partook of an ex- cellent dinner. The middle of the day was very hot, and the large fans which I have before noticed were playing over your head ; and the company were sup- plied with a profusion of iced milk, and iced water, and watermelon. It was a curious spectacle to see a gen- tleman, after dining heartily — most heartily — welcome half a melon on a dish, and about eighteen inches long, and dispose of all its good parts before your surprise was over. BALTIMORE. 207 iged, as it had As we passed 10 were making seme varieties ing at a small )f which I had down, a young I, came up, and any movement was, I remark- le ; and he laid id some suspi- d ; and he puz- ; ascertain this, legrees, till his ?here were two lok up one. It eeting, and the th his name and ind he began his J said. " Yes," " — " It has that Mr. , and Lwardly, and, as to get a little his region, con- He was, not- us man. I at down at the artook of an ex- was very hot, noticed were any were sup- iced water, and to see a gen- irtily — welcome len inches long, our surprise was Baltimore is a favourite city of mine, and has great advantages. Its noble bay I have noticed ; it has, be- sides these waters, the rivers Patapsco, Potomac, and Susquehannah, tributary to it. It has also a run of rail- road of 300 miles, connecting it with the Ohio ; and it is the most central of all the first-rate towns to the Slates generally. These advantages have contributed greatly to its advancement. It has novir a population of 80,000 persons ; and is, therefore, the second city in the Union. Like Boston, too, it stands on fine inclinations of land, which set off its various objects. The handsome curve and acclivity in the main street, give a good first im- pression ; and the more private dwellings have an air of wealth and comfort on them. The churches cluster and crown the higher grounds with great propriety ; and there is, just finished, on the highest portion of them, a monu- ment to Washington, which might grace any spot, and become the best of all that is good in this city picture. This city is styled the Monumental City, but somewhat proudly and ridiculously. It has, I think, but two monu- ments at present. Of one, though much has been said of it, it is kind to observe silence ; the other will bear any praise that is reasonable, and deserves it. It is a column running 160 feel from the ground ; having abase fifty feet square, and a pedestal carrying a statue of the hero, fifteen feet hi(?h. It is built of white marble ; the statue is by Causici; it cost 10,000 dollars, and the whole affair not less than 200,000 dollars. It is mostly a copy of Trajan's Pillar ; and, as a handsome column, is greatly superior to the Duke of York's in Regent- street, and will compare with Melville's in Edinburgh. Few things can be executed in better taste. There is much bustle in this place, directed both to bus- iness and amusement. Here were balloons about to as- cend, and "Master B. was to accompany Mister D., by the express consent of his parents." Here was great rivalry with steamboats ; and one, in advertising his advantages to his passengers, promised to take them " free of dust and DIRT." Here were busy auctions ; at which sharp 208 SLAVE MART. Yankees were practising on the softer natures of the South. Here was trumpeted about, as the lion of the time, a splendid museum, and a splendid moral picture of Adam and Eve. When it was lighted up for the night, I went to see it. The museum was rather a show for children than any thing more ; and as for the moral picture, for the sake of the morality as well as the taste of Baltimore, I can only hope it was quickly starved out. But there is another view of this subject, and it sad- dens the heart. This place is, like Richmond, a con- siderable mart for slaves. It is border ground, and therefore desecrated by the worst circumstances in sla- very : the apprehension, punishment, and sale. I met in the papers at my hotel with the following, among other notices of the kind : — .! >,.t I i " One Hundred Dollars Reward. " Run away from the subscriber, a negro man named Abraham. Black complexion ; 5 ft. 10 in. high, straight, well made, likely faced, about 34 years. Whoever will lodge the said fellow in Baltimore jail, shall receive 60 dollars, and all reasonable expenses. " Thomas Hillan.'* " For Sale. " A black woman ; 38 years. She is a first-rate cook, and excellent house servant. Strictly honest, sober, and healthy. Apply to " John Busk." " Cash ! " And very liberal prices, will at all times be given for Slaves. " All communications will be promptly attended to, if left at Sinner's Hotel, or at the subscriber's residence, Gallow's Hill. " The house is white. « J. F. Purvis & Co." i A METHODIST CHURCH. 209 aitures of the e lion of the noral picture d up for the rather a show for the moral 11 as the taste y starved out. ;t, and it sad- iinond, a con- ground, and tances in sla- ale. I met in , among other TO man named , high, straight, Whoever will all receive 60 kS HiLLAN.'* is a first-rate trictly honest, TOHN BvsK." es be given for ^ attended to, if er's residence, RVIS & Co." What an apposition between deeds and names in this instance. " The house is white ;" alas, that it should be the only white thing in the business ! When returning from an excursion in the town and some needful calls, I found a church open and lighted. I desired to close the day in a quiet act of worship, and went in. My wishes were but poorly gratified ; but the service was somewhat remarkauie, and even more amu- sing than I desired. It was a Methodist Church, of full size and commodious. There were not 100 persons present ; and the preacher, in both exercises, was feoble and noisy, with good intentions. I was surprised to find more of the peculiarities of this people here, in the Monu- mental City, than are sometimes to be found in a seques- tered village. There were not only interruptions and exclamations in prayer, but in singing and in the sermon also. With many, it was a sort of chorus taken to- gether ; but there was one reverend old man, certainly a leader among them, who spurned association, and literally kept up a sort of recitative with the preacher. The fol- lowing is an instance, which I could not help preserving that night. Having passed through the explanatory portion of his discourse, the preacher paused, and then said : — Preacher. " The duty here inferred is, to deny our- selves." Elder. " God enable us to do it !" Preacher. " It supposes that the carnal mind is en- mity against God." Elder. " Ah, indeed. Lord, it is !" Preacher. " The very reverse of what God would have us be !" Elder. " God Almighty knows it's true !" Preacher. " How necessary, then, that God should call on us to renounce every thing !" Elder. " God help us !" Preacher. " Is it necessary for me to say more 1" Elder. « No, oh no !" 18» 3 t r i. ■ r 210 ii PHILADELPHIA. Have I not said enough V yes — quite enou{ I rejoice that G( Preacher. •* Elder. "01 Preacher. *' every thing!" Elder (clasping his hands). " Yes, Lord, I would let it all go !" Preacher. " You must give up all." Elder. "Yes,— all!" Preacher. " Your pride !" Elder. " My pride !" Preacher. " Your envy !" Elder. " My envy !" Preacher. " Your covetousness !" Elder. " My covetousness !" Preacher. " Your anger !" Elder. " Yes, my anger !" Preacher. " Sinner, how awful, then, is your con- dition !" Elder. " How awful !" Preacher. " What reason for all to examine them- selves !" Elder. " Lord, help us to search our hearts !" Preacher. " Could you have more motives 1 — I have done !" Elder. " Thank God ! Thank God for his holy Word. Amen !" : i LETTER :nx. Mv DEAR Friend, On the next morning early I left for Philadelphia. I found a gentleman on board who had crossed the Atlantic with us; and had pleasant conversation with him. I noticed to him the heavy fog which hung over the town me to give up trd, I would let , 18 your con- examine them- earts !" tives 1 — I have his holy Word. hiladelphia. I sed the Atlantic . with him. I over the town H I PRINCETON. 811 and the waters. He remarked that it was somewhat common at this period of the year ; and that the banks of the river, though very beautiful and inviting for a res- idence, were unhealthy and dangerous. There was strong opposition on these waters between the steamboats ; and we made a rapid and pleasant run to Philadelphia. Here I naturally sought for Dr. Ely ; his family were residing in the country, but I happened to find him in town. Through him, too, I met with Mr. Matheson, who had returned from Pennsylvania, and was seeking me. He had been on to New-York, and brought me packets of letters, ■ which had been long due ; and which were like water to the thirsty ground. I had not received a foreign letter since the day I left Buffalo ; and this was really to be placed among my greatest privations. On the following morning we went on to Princeton, that we might spend the Sabbath there. We were to have been received at Judge Byard's ; but found sick- ness in his family. Dr. Rice, who also expected us, gave us a cordial welcome. We felt the more at home, as we had known each other through his brother, who was my friend and correspondent. It was no sooner known that we had arrived, than Professors Alexander, Miller, and Dodd, with other frieiids, very obligingly called on us ; and throughout our short stay, showed us the kindest attentions. On the morning of the Sabbath I worshipped at the Theological Institution, and Mr. Matheson preached for Dr. Rice. I understood that Dr. Alexander was to preach to the students ; he is much esteemed as a preacher, and I was desirous of hearing him. The service was in the lecture-room ; there were from eighty to one hundred young men present. It was an interesting occasion. I was glad to worship with a body of pious youth, who were devoted to the ministration of the word of life ; and to have that worship led by so good and competent a man as their revered tutor. I had declined preaching in the morning, on condition of occupying the pulpit in Dr. Rice's church at night. In 212 JERSEY. \i ■^ I the evening, therefore, I walked abroad in the fields to meditate. In my way I passed by a number of cottages, tenanted by coloured people. The doors and windows were all open. In one of them, the father, with his wife and children sitting around him, was reading with broken utterance, as if learning to read, by reading. I was de- sirous of ascertaining what he was reading ; and, as I passed slowly along, I heard him utter the words — *' Show us the Father, and it sufficeth us." I scarcely know how it was, but the words from those lips were very touching. The old man seemed like the representative of his op- pressed race, craving, in the midst of their wrongs, only one thing, and that the noblest. My thoughts glanced spontaneously to Him who is the common Father of us all ; and I could not suppress the desire, that whatever else was denied, he might have the blessedness of that relationship. Jersey is a free State, and of course the coloured peo- ple who dwell here are free, or in course of freedom. Much is said everywhere about the superior state of the slaves in habit, character, and comfort, over these eman- cipated people. Certainly, so far as the instance before me is concerned, the position must be reversed ; for these people appear better, dress better, have better dweUings, and bring about themselves more of the comforts of life. I closed my walk as the evening shut in, and hastened to the church. It was very full ; and the galleries were occupied entirely by collegians and youth. It was a serious, and I would hope a profitable service. The heat was to me very oppressive heie ; but chiefly I was an- noyed by a large field-bug, somewhat like our hearth beetle. Its tameness made it very troublesome and most unpleasant. It got into your hair, your cravat, and your bosom, and there it might be crushed, for it was insensi- ble to resistance. Princeton is situated in a pleasant part of New- Jersey ; and is both rural and collegiate in its appearance. It is rural, from the cottage style of the houses, and the rbun- dance of trees in the streets and elsewhere ; and it is v»> EXAMINATION. 213 I the fields to er of cottages, and windows , with his wife ig with broken ig. I was de- ,ng ; and, as I irords — "Show :cely know how very touching, ive of his op- ir wrongs, only oughts glanced n Father of us , that whatever sedness of that le coloured peo- se of freedom. :ior state of the rer these eman- instance before srsed ; for these etter dwelhngs, omforts of life, n, and hastened galleries were It was a rice. The heat liefly I was an- ike our hearth some and most ravat, and your it was insensi- )f New- Jersey ; learance. It is and the cbun- lere ; and it is collegiate, from the predominance of the colleges over the other erections. The me ii;s of religion are here abundant, as compared with the population. Dr. Rice^s church has about 350 in communion, and about 600 in usual attendance. There is worship at both tne colleges, and a place for the coloured population ; and besides these accommodations, there are now erecting an Epis- copal Church, and a chapel attached to the Theological Institution ; both of them handsome structures. As the Monday was the only clear day at this inter* esting point of observation, it was a very busy one. Dr. Rice and Professor Dodd introduced us early to the col- lege. The examinations, previous to the commence- ment, were coming on. We attended one at nine o'clock. It was of the first class, and by the President. The subject was, the evidence of revealed religion. The names of the students were written in folded slips ; and the President drew from these promiscuously, and called on the party inscribed to rise and answer. The ques- tions were, certainly, commonplace, and should have created little difficulty ; but most of the replies were feeble and irresolute, and some of them far astray. Those who were least prepared were chiefly youths who dreamed of independence, and who were rather constrained by their connexions to seek an education suited to their place in society, while they were themselves indifferent. The students were mostly, he /ever, the sons of success- ful tradesmen, who, missing education themselves, de- sired it for their children; and their children generally were animated by similar desire, for they look on educa- tion as the door to advancement. I was struck with the ages of the young men in this class ; they were generally above twenty -five years of age. We afterward attended a recitation in Professor Dodd's class. The subject was Mechanics, and this exercise was limited to the Pulley. The professor had a list of the class before him, and the persons called out were in this instance selected. They were very well prepared, and made their replies and wrought their diagrams with 214 THEOLOGICAL INSTITUTION. ease and skill. It closed by an announcement of the next subject, which was the Lever. There was an in- teresting young Scotchman in this class pointed out to us, as possessii^g extraordinary powers as a linguist. We inspected the establishment. There is nothing special to remark, except that Professor Henry promises to do much honour to the department of chymistry. He has constructed a magnet of great capacity, which has raised a weight of 3,500 lbs. The Ubrary is consider- able and good. We saw here a set of the works which had been recently sent by our government to this and most of the colleges in this country. They are rare and expensive books, and a worthy expression of national re- gard. It is surprising and delightful to observe, how much this wise and benevolent movement on the part of our country, has conciliated and interested the men of letters here. Surely England is never fulfilling her high destination so faithiuUy and so fully, as when she is seek- ing to advance among the young or savage nations of the earth the interests of science, which are, in fact, the in- terests of humanity and of the world. It is thus, rather than by success in arms or extent of domination, that she may win for herself a more hallowed name than Greece or Rome ever knew, among those new worlds of life and civilization which are springing up in the West, the South, and the East. Our attention was next engaged by the Theological Institution. It is entirely distinct from the college. It requires but little observation, except what may fall under a more generic name afterward. It accommodates about 110 students ; it is full ; and the students are considered to be the subjects of true piety. Its provisions for their comfort are respectable. The library is small ; but as a theological school, it is in good repute. The burial-ground is an object of attraction here. It would be so, if for no other reason than that it contained the remains of President Edwards, Davies, &c. We dined this day at Judge Byard's. This worthy gentleman has passed some time in England as a Com- NEW-BRUNSWICK. 215 inissioner from the American Government ; and he had strong partiahty for the English. I met here again with Drs. Miller and Alexander, and continued some profita- ble conversations on the state of religion. The evening was spent at Professor Dodd's, and in the society, I believe, of all the professors of the two institutions, and some of their ladies. It was a delight- ful party ; such as one does not meet in the common walks of life. It was refined, without being ceremoni- ous ; affectionate, without obtrusiveness ; and well-in- formed, without pedantry. Good taste prevailed in our accommodations and repast; and the conversations, while they were free as air, were rational, intelligent, and elevated. Before we separated, we all united in an exercise of social worship, which was such as most of us will, I dare say, long remember. The next day we parted from our friends, and from Princeton, with great regrets that we could not stay longer. Nowhere had we met with more unaffected kindness ; and it was increased by the eminence of the persons who expressed it. The heat continued very great ; and on our way to New-Brunswick one of the horses in our stage sunk down, and died in the road. This delayed us so long, that we were too late for the boat which was to take us forward ; and after making some efforts in vain, we were compelled to remain. It is a thriving, smart, clean, Dutch-looking town, with a good location on the water- side. There is near to it the college belonging to the Dutch Church ; and to improve the evening, which was closing fast upon us, I proposed to go and inspect it. It was, however, dark before we arrived, the professors we sought were away, and we could not intrude at such an hour on strangers, to whom we had no introduction. The information we obtained was derived from a gentle- man who had also come to the college, but for a differ- ent purpose. He was about to attend a lecture on chymistry. It was one of a short popular course given by a professor to the public ; and it was manifestly 216 JOURNEY TO NEW-YORK. ' I under the patronage of this gentleman, himself a scientific man. He invited our attendance, and we gave a cheer- ful compliance. The lecture was well prepared and illustrated, but the apparatus was poor, and indicated that this was a young experiment. There were from twenty to thirty young persons present, and there might have been more had not the evening put on a threatening aspect. Our strrnger- friend still continued his atten- tions on our return ; we became revealed to each other ; he pressed us to pass the night under his hospitable roof, and with such evident cordiality, as to make us as greatly his debtors as though we had done so. On the following morning we made a short and pleas- ant sail to New- York ; and had the President of the college, Mr. Milledoler, for a companion. New- York, though so well known, struck me with surprise. The Broadway, which was accustomed to be so full of move- ment, looked comparatively like a desert. The cholera had been in it, and all who could fly from the pestilence did. The disease was still here, and from twenty to twenty-four cases a day were reported. Elsewhere it had been raging violentlv. At Cincinnati, from 80 to 100 a week died ; at Montreal, 241 perished in the week ; and at Detroit^ the population, by flight and disease, had been reduced from 5,000 to 2.000. I was making New- York only a place of passage, and its present state did not incline one needlessly to linger on the way. We found that our friend, Mr. Phelps, was going with part of his family to Saratoga the next day, and we determined to attend him thither. We made needful calls, to ascertain the safety of friends, or to dispose of impending business, tha^ we might be ready to fulfil our purpose. Early the next morning we were on our way to Albany, and many things contributed to give exhilaration to the journey. We were in good company ; we were leaving an infected and deserted town ; we were about to run up one of the finest American rivers in one of the finest boats ; and, forgive the collocation, we were to do f K. uself a scientiiic i^e gave a cheer* 11 prepared and r, and indicated 'here were from and there might on a threatening inued his atten- d to each other ; ir his hospitable , as to make us i done so. short and pleas- President of the on. New- York, I. surprise. The I ao full of move- rt. The cholera >m the pestilence I from twenty to i. Elsewhere it mati, from 80 to perished in the I, by flight and |o 2;000. of passage, and dlessly to Unger dr. Phelps, was ja the next day, ler. We made jf friends, or to might be ready on our way to ^ive exhilaration ipany ; we were we were about rs in one of the , we were to do THE HUDSON. 217 this at a cost of lidy cents — that is, a distance of one hundred and forty-five miles for half a crown ! I have more than once noticed the Hudson to you ; but I have not described it ; nor is it my purpose now. You must be already familiar with its principal features, by the repeated descriptions of all the travellers. Not that I am quite satisfied that the thing should rest on your imagination just as they have reported it ; for some are extravagant, and use marvellous expressions here, as they would anywhere when it is the fashion to praise ; others are incorrect, and report to you the things as they are not ; while others seek safety in generalities, and say only what would be true of any river that had amplitude in itself, and hills around it. But after having received these impressions, it would require, in attempting to con- vey one's own, that you should be presented with various sketches, from different points of sight, and of great in- dividuality. The river is worth all this, and more ; but opportunity does not serve me. The palisades are beautiful, but they have been over- done. The fine expanding waters above them are chiefly beautiful by the abundance of small craft which are perpetually moving over them ; and with their white sails, give life, and picture, and perspective to the scene. The excelling beauty of the river, however, is found in the narrows, and is limited to a confined space. Here the Hudson, denied surface, demands depth, and flows on a stronger and darker stream, winding its way reso- lutely through the rocks and hills, and reminding you of the day when it first cut its passage through them. The cleft hills rise on either side and all around you, in forms so decided, so beautiful, and so varied, as to leave you nothing to desire. The sky was more propitious to the picture than I had before seen it. Some dewy and dark clouds were passing about, so as to give a magni- tude and mysteriousness to the hills, which they mostly want here ; while the sun was gleaming through them and over them with a radiance exquisite and divine. After this, there was nothing very remarkable till we Vol. I.— K 19 218 SARATOGA. ' ! came within sight of Albany ; and it was made so by the state of the elements above it. The clouds, which for some time had been unsettled, now collected them- selves behind it. They were as black and threatening as thunder-clouds can be, even in this country. On this ebony background arose the whole town ; and its towers, spires, turrets, and domes, looked like the fairest marble, and made you regard it, by the prominence it gave them, as a city of obelisks and temples. In the distant fore- ground, the spreading foliage of trees screened the skirts of the town ; and immediately before you lay the dark waters, reflecting the darker forms of the lowering clouds. The storm which threatened us came on before we could get to land ; and we were glad by any means to hasten to any accommodation that might be available. The town was full, and we had difficulty in procuring even the plainest kind. It mattered little, however, as in the m'^rning we proceeded to the springs. A rail- road has recently been laid down ; and though it is inferior to many, it enables you to get over the distance in a short time. Saratoga is the most fashionable watering-place in the States. Like most of their watering-places, it is inland. The people here all run from the sea in the summer ; while with us they are all ready to run into it. The sea- coast, and the river sides, at this season, are deemed un- wholesome. The town is composed rather of several enormous inns than of streets and houses. The princi- pal are, the Congress, the Pavilion, the Union, and the United States. From their size, and from the large por- ticoes which run in their front, ornamented by flowering shrubs, they have a good and imposing appearance. They will accommodate from 200 to 300 persons ; and at this time there were upwards of 2,000 visiters. The refectories and the withdrawing-rooms, as they gather all the occupants together at certain times, have an ani- mated and striking effect. Our waiter observed to me, with great complacency, of the dining-room, that it was IIELIOIOUS HOTEL. 219 i8 made so by clouds, which ;oUocted them- ind threatening intry. On this andi its towers, fairest marble, :e it gave them, ;he distant fore- I screened the ore you lay the of the lowering ,e on before we )y any means to lit be available, ilty in procuring tie, however, as prings. A rail- nd though it is iver the distance ring-place in the ,ces, it is inland, in the summer ; ito it. The sea- are deemed un- ■ather of several Bs. The princi- Union, and the »m the large por- ted by flowering ing appearance. 00 persons ; and visiters. The as they gather les, have an ani- observed to mCt room, that it was the largest room in the States. I admired his modesty, that he did not say — in the world. Altogether, t iiuugh the place is the centre of transat- lantic fashion, it has the air of having been just redeemed from the forest. The main avenue, or street, is just a clearance from the woods, with its centre cut up by the carriages, and filled with the native dust and sand, and the margins are overrun with grass ; and the PaviUon, which was completing, is at present enveloped in the original and verdant spruce pine. The attractions of the place must depend chiefly on the repute of its waters, and the fashion of its society ; for I have seen no resort m this country so poor in natural beauties. The town stands on a flat, and has nothing to relieve it, except, in one direction, the mountains of Vermont appearing in the distance. I do not forget Lake George ; but Lake George is away a day^s journey. Of course we took the waters ; and in doing so saw the company, and met with many friends. There are several springs, which vary a little in quality, but have the same bases. The waters are taken in large quanti- ties ; and, on this account, I should think, must do harm to many persons. They are, however, not disagreeable, and have undoubtedly excellent properties. The chief amusements of the place are, a visit to Lake George ; fishing at Ballston ; a drive out and in again ; and an occasional ball, got up at one hotel, by a subscription made at all. The only sight was a Pano- rama of Geneva, which I had seen in London, and was glad to sec again, that I might be transported to Europe and Leicester-square. There is certainly gambling going on here ; but, if seen, it must be sought for. On the contrary, there is one hotel, and that first-rate, which has the denomination of the Religious Hotel. Its name preserves its character ; th'e religious are attracted by it ; and as clergymen are usually staying here, domestic worship is observed, and not only most of the occupants, but many from the other inns, attend. It is also worthy of remark, that in this place, so lately risen from the K3 220 ALBANY. t' I 1 forest, and raised for purposes of fashion, and having so very small a resident population, there is an adequate supply of churches, even when the company is largest. Our afTectionate friends had urged me to pass some days here as favourable to my health, and I came on with the intention of doing so. But on an exact com- parison of what I felt it desirable to do, and of the time within which it must be done, I was obliged to abandon the idea. The next day, therefore, we left, to fulfil some engagements in Albany on the Sabbath ; and with small or no expectation of seeing Saratoga again. We found our worthy friend. Dr. Sprague, ready to re- ceive us. Dr. Ferris, of the Dutch Church, was ill ; and as his charge would have been without a minister, we undertook to preach for him. It is a fine old church, in English style ; like many of our churches, erected in bad taste, but preserving a respectable and venerable aspect. The order of worship in this body deviates a little from what is usual. There is first an intercessory prayer ; then a blessing is pronounced in scriptural terms on the people ; then the ten commandments are read, and some portions of Scripture. Afterward there is singing ; prayer ; the sermon ; prayer ; singing ; and then the benediction. There was a good attendance, and, I should think, by persons of worthy character and respectable habits. In the afternoon I was engaged to preach at Dr. Sprague's, and to baptize his infant son. The adminis- tration follows the first singing. The persons waiting for the ordinance are requested to present themselves. They come out before the pulpit. The minister addresses them ; and descends, to baptize the child. He then as- cends to the pulpit, renews his address, or offers prayer ; which, after specially noticing the subject before the con- gregation, becomes the general prayer. Then follow singing, and the sermon as usual. This church is of full dimensions ; and although the afternoon was wet, it was quite filled. There was great attention on the part of the auditory, and many were much affected. I desired to improve the evening by uniting with some > I ALBANY. 221 >n, and having so ) is an adequate npany is largest, me to pass some , and I came on )n an exact com- , and of the time iliged to abandon left, to fulfil some ; and with small jain. Lgue, ready to re- irch, was ill ; and It a minister, we ne old church, in es, erected in bad venerable aspect, ates a little from rcessory prayer; iral terms on the i read, and some singing ; prayer ; the benediction. should think, by }le habits. preach at Dr. The adminis- jersons waiting sent themselves. inistcr addresses He then as- )r offers prayer ; before the con- Then follow church is of full was wet, it was on the part of ed. liting with some congregation in worship. We found one church shut, and another without its pastor ; and at last entered some- what later than we wished the Episcopal Church, which we found open, but which was also deprived of its regular teacher. It is small; and there were not above 150 persons present. The preacher was a mathematical pro- fessor ; and if in his place in the chair, he is certainly out of it in the pulpit. His subject was man's mortahty ; and as it had been preceded by the aflfecting prayer for deliverance from cholera, and as that disease wa? in the town, it should have told in some degree. Yet it inter- ested no one. The only remarkable thing was, in fact, the contrariety between the preacher's manner and his composition. The one was coldness itself; while the other was inflated to an extreme. It abounded in excla- mations, and ended in an apostrophe, which issued as from marble lips, and froze as they fell. I enjoyed the psalms, which were sung to some of our old and good psalmody, though few united, and though the poor organ did us little service. There is in this plain church a pew which atti^acts atten- tion, and is meant to do so. It is composed of two, and is as large and splendid as a mayor's ; and has a showy lamp chandelier suspended over it. When the owner of this dress box attends it is lighted, to notify his presence to the gazing congregation. He was present on this oc- casion, and exhibited a gold chain, like our sheriffs. This gentleman is from England, they say ; he makes large gifts and large charges ; and has succeeded by dash. How many have done so both in the old and new world ! But is it not a profanity, as well as a folly, when these vanities are carried into our temples, and are made to give to the house of God the aspect of the theatre ? The following day we made an excursion to Troy. It is a handsome town, of very rapid growth. The people are energetic, and of public spirit; and are following fast after Albany in ornamental buildings and general hnprovement. We made calls here on Drs. Beman and Tucker ; and visited a school, which was said to have 19^ 222 SCHENECTADY. ! 1 claims on attention. Dr. Tucker accompanied us on our return ; and we made a call on General Van Rensselaer. He is the Patroon, or Lord of the Manor here ; and is considered the greatest landholder in the United States. What is better, he is a most amiable man ; and promotes the comfort of his tenants, and the spirit of wise improve- ment around him ; and, what is still better, the amiable and respectable portions of his character are based and sustained on religious principles and exercises. He had presided at several of the public meetings at New- York ; and we were welcomed as friends. The house stands on rather low ground ; but it commands a pleasant view of the Mohawk river and of Troy in the distance. The gardens are much better than are usual here, and remind one of England ; though they incline rather to the Dutch than the English style. There is little, if any, that we should call pleasure-ground ; and there is no attempt at landscape gardening. We walked round the grounds, and conversed pleasantly, and then took our leave. I was afterward invited to dine, but could not avail myself of the kindness intended. LETTER XX. My dear Friend, On the 19th, I left for Utica. Mr. Matheson had left the previous evening to attend the commencement at New- Haven. As I had come in this direction chiefly for the sake of making myself acquainted with the revivals, for which the western part of this State was famous ; and as I had not yet accomplished tliis object, I was constrained to tarry, with the understanding that wc should meet again at Amherst. I went as far as Schenectady by the rail-road. I wasj assured that when there I should And a coach waiting to ERIE CANAL. 223 convey me on to Utica, a distance of about eighty miles. The coach was indeed there ; but the proprietor was there hkewise, and his business was to ascertain whether enough would offer to go by it " to make it worth his while." His decision, in this instance, was against its running ; not perceiving that by this short-sighted policy he gave uncertainty to a public conveyance, and thus dis- couraged the public from using it. My only alternative was to go by the packet-boat, which was preparing to start immediately. I was thus committed to a mode oftravelling which at this unhealthy season I most wished to avoid. But I was on the Erie Canal, and it was some satisfaction that I should have a fair opportunity of inspecting what, as a work of art, stands unrivalled by any other effort of this enterprising people. This canal is 360 miles long, and has a branch canal running off to Lake Champlain, which is sixty miles in length. It has eighty-three locks, and eighteen aqueducts; one of which is about 1,200 feet. It is forty feet wide on the surface, and about four feet deep. It and the branch canal were completed in less than nine years, at an expense of 9,000,000 dollars. The object is to connect the Hudson, and therefore New- York, on the one hand, with Lake Champlain, and thus with Canada ; and on the othAr, to unite it with Lake Erie, and with the other mediterranean seas of that region, and by consequence with the Ohio and the Mississippi. The Americans owe this to the genius and patriotism of De Witt Clinton, one of the greatest men that country ever saw ; and when we consider the extent of route, the coun- tries it connects, and the influence it will have on those countries, done as it is by so young a people, and with so little disposable capital, it is above comparison, and above praise. There was much business on this water-thoroughfare. The boats for the transit of goods were called " line- boats," and those for passengers, " packets." The pack- ets were a sort of mail ; they are drawn by three horses at a slow trot ; and do not clear more than four miles an 224 MOHAWK VALLEY. ? / hour. With some twenty persons, our packet might hav« been tolerable ; but it so happened that we had from sixty to seventy passengers on board, and there was much to bear. For all these persons, male and female, there was only one room, to live, and meal, and sleep in, of about twelve feet by seventy. There were curtains, indeed, provided, which might separate a portion from the rest when needful ; still the dimensions were the same. During the day, we could relieve ourselves by going on the roof of the boat ; and this is a desirable place, both for air and the sight of the country. But we had difficul- ties here. There was no provision against a burning sun ; and the bridges were so numerous and so low as to be exceedingly troublesome, and, if you were negligent, somewhat dangerous. It was part of the duty of the helmsman to observe these, and give notice of them by the cry of " Bridge !" It was some time before we got drilled to it ; and when we were, it was an amusing spec- tacle. Some twenty men would be standing, sitting, and looking about in all directions, and variously engaged ; but, at the cry of " A bridge !" they would repeat the cry as the papist w^uld his prayers, and fix their eyes in one direction ; and \» hen the object came, they would pros- trate themselves on the floor as at the ringing of the bell and the elevation of the 4iost. The country through which we were passing was worth observation. It is the Mohawk Valley, and wa- tered by the river of that name ; and formerly possessed by the people of that name, the finest of the Indian na- tions. It is of great extent ; very beautiful and fertile ; has been long settled, and shows, in an unusual degree, good cultivation. The upper portion was chiefly settled by Germans, and the part we were passing through by the Dutch. Everywhere you meet with marks of their taste in the fanning ; the form, and party-coloured houses ; and along the banks of the canal, you have towns with the names of Rotterdam, Amsterdam, and Frankfort, to them Settlers of later date, and in further districts of this State, have taken offence at such hornespun appellatives, and ha tha jur Gr ; PASSENGERS. 225 packet might hav« hat we had from i, and there was male and female, neal, and sleep in, ere were curtains, a portion from the s were the same. | urselves by going | sirable place, both | ut we had difficul- | nst a burning sun j I so low as to be were negligent, the duty of the otice of them by me before we got an amusing spec- nding, sitting, and riously engaged ; uld repeat the cry their eyes in one they would pros- inging of the bell ere passing was Valley, and wa- merly possessed the Indian na- itiful and fertile; unusual degree, as chiefly settled ig through by the rks of their taste ired houses ; and J towns with the -ankfort, to them cts of this State, appellatives, and have sought to be very classical in their designations. So thai, in fact, within a small limit, you get the strangest jumble of English, Dutch, German, Indian, Roman, and Greek terms, imaginable. The attempts at what is clas- sical, too, are often very ridiculous. You have, for in- stance, Utica in Ulysses, and other such varieties. Every disadvantage has its counterpart. If we had a host of people crammed into a little boat, it gave one an opportunity of observing, unobserved, the unconstrained manners of the passengers. Dinner brought us all to- gether ; and put us on a degree of intercourse. It ap- peared that about twenty on board were of one party ; and that they were delegates to a convention of mechan- ics which was to be held at Utica, against what they termed the State Prison Monopoly. The ground of com- plaint was, that the convicts were employed at several trades, and that the articles so manufactured were sold at a price below that of the honest and independent tradesman. It was evident that this delegation was com- posed of the successful and superior manufacturers of New- York. They were a curious assemblage of per- sons : Dutch, Irish, Scotch, English, and American. Their numbers gave them confidence ; and they were the great people of the day. When the dinner was over,. they professed to hold, by anticipation, a meeting of the delegates ; but the design was rather to discuss some champaign than any busi- ness. I took a book, and remained at a little distance. A president was chosen ; and the wine was brought for- ward. It was to be seasoned by toasts and songs. Mr. A , a Scotchman, was called on to sing. He had reputation in this way, and brought applause about him. His song was a hit at Lords and Kings, and a commend- ation of manliness in man. The president then gave, " The independent mechanic ;" which was, of course, drunk with " great enthusiasm." Then came, " The mechanics of the State, and may ihe cause they are in prosper," with *' three times three," and a song. One of the delegates then proposed, "The health of J K3 II It 226 PASSENGERS. I . , L , Esq, which was chairman of the committee lohich brought up ihe first report." There was one person among them who declined the wine ; and he v-ras joked as a water-drinker and a Tem- perance man. He had not, however, confidence to avow himself, though he had to refuse the wine. He met their gibes with good temper ; and gave as a toast, " May he that has power to help us, and does not, want a cup of cold water." This uncharitable sentiment conciliated their prejudices, and they kept on good terms with him. These men were e\ ently not accustomed to the use of wine, and they usea it inordinately. The tumljler was, in some cases, preferred to the glass. As th? wine entered, the wit, such as it was, got out ; it was ^vitless and vile enough. But I took warning, and went iibove. Their potations of wine heated them, and made them restless ; and they soon followed me to the roof. Here they amused themselves with all manner of boyish tricks and practical jokes. They knocked each other's hats off; jumped on shore ; chased each 6ther. One of them got possession of a horse, and mounted ; another hung on its tail ; while a third seized the rein and tried to dis-^ mount the rider. He, to free himself, pricked the horse ; the animal knocked down the man who had the rein, and left him rolling into the canal. The enacting of this scene, like the fifth act of a comedy, brought merriment to a crisis ; and was attended by roars of laughter. Then came the deductions on a course of folly; fatigue, discomfort, ennui, and, with the better sort, shame and regret. It was, certainly, but a poor speci- men of the tradesmen of a great city. They were well dressed, indeed, and had much rough energy of charac- ter ; but, with one or two exceptions, nothing more of a favourable complexion can be educed. If any one of them professed religion, it was not seen here. Sorry I am to say, that the two worst were an Irishman and a Scotchman. The ladies who were on board were prudent ; two or three of them pious. Two of them came out into thQ ! I I PASSENGERS. 227 committee which i prow of the vessel, and seated themselves near me, that they might enjoy the fine moonli^rhi scenery, and rid themselves of disquiet within. The younger one ob- served, with a plaintive air, " that she loved to sit out in moonlight, because it mellowed all the finer sentiments of the soul." The elder one, who did not, in the least, comprehend the subject, remarked, " that she did not see it was so melancholy as people said." Both, however, seemed able to connect the things made with the Hand that made them. But night came, and with it, it was needful to look to sleeping accommodation. From all appearances, it did not seem that any provision could be made for this pur- pose. It was soon shown how much contrivance could do, if it could not do all that the occasion required. The curtains I named were dropped over one third of the room, and thus made a division for the ladies and chil- dren. Our portion of the room was cleared. A set of franies, like larger shelves, were produced ; and were suspended behind, by hinge and pivot, to the side of the vessel, and in front, by a small cord attached to the ceil- ing. Three tier of these were carried round the room, which was not more than six feet high ; so that it had the appearance of being filled, from top to floor, with small bins. Then all the tables were collected, and placed down the middle of the room, as far as they would go. The settees were omployed to fill in any possible spaces ; and a^ter all this accommodation was disposed of, it was plainly understood that there remained just the floor. The captain, a civil man, proposed that the company should choose births as their names stood on his list, which was filled in as they came on board. As the delegates were the first, he knew that this would satisfy them ; and this was not a small matter. By the same rule, I knew that I should come nearly last ; an issue the captain wished to avert, but to which I was really indif- ferent, for I shrunk altogether from any acconunodation among so many, and in so small a space. The names •w 228 MOIIT ON THE WATEU. it I. ut I: were called, and the births chosen, and the possessors began to *' turn in." I retreated from the noise and con- fusion, once CTiore, to the roof; and out- watched the set- ting moon. As the moon fell, the damps arose ; and it was needful to walk to prevent cold. All was now hushed ; except here and there the helmsman's voice broke sharply on my ear, to warn me of " A bridge." I could hear my foot fall ; and as it fell over the multitude slumbering beneath it, it seemed like a living entombment of my fellow-mortals. Still the damps and cold increased ; and I was con- strained to screen myself as I could below. Two or three gentlemen offered to relinquish their births in my favour; but I could not expose others to privation to escape it myself; and my resolution had been previously taken, not to lie down that night. I took a couple of chairs, and placing them as near the door as practicable, I lounged on them in such a way as to rest the body, and possibly to forget myself for a few minutes. It was now beyond midnight ; and nearly all were fast asleep, and were assuring you of it by muttering and noisy respiration. The sight was really a singular one. The room was packed all round, from top to bottom, with living beings. The tables, the settees, the floor, all covered. My chairs had scarcely a place to stand ; and two persons lay at my feet, and one at my elbow. Two lines of cord had been carried down the ceiling of the room, that the spare garments might be hung on them- Here, then, was an exhibition of coats, trousers, waist- coats, cravats, and hats, worthy Of Monmouth-street ; the great evil of which was, that it cut off the little chances of ventilation. Two glimmering, unsnuffed candles, gave sepulchral lights to the whole. Occasionally, however, the scene was animated. The vessel was liable to sharp jerks on entering the locks ; and when these occurred, you might see some dozen heads starting from the sides, like so many turtles from their shells ; with a suitable accompaniment of wild and ■leepy exclamations ; and then again they were drawn in, ITTICA. 229 and all was still, I fell in* a short slumber, and re- proached myself for doing so ; when I awoke I found my loot in the face of another sleeper ; and as the night wore away, most of them getting into similar predicaments. But the great evil of the place arose from the confmed and suffocating state of the air, shut out, as it was, from all external influence. It indisposed me, and before four o'clock I was on the roof again. Never shall I for- get that night. The fogs lay heavily all around us, and after making the best of it for an hour, I was getting very chilly, and was fearful of the consequences. I went down, and stood awhile at the doorway ; desirous of escaping the smells within, and the damp wind without. They were now generally seeking to dress ; but this was no easy matter. One had lost his boots, another his hat, another his cravat, another his money, and another his — every thing. Then there were outcries, and searciiings, and exchanges ; in seeking one article, a score would be thrown out of place; and so it went on till confusion was twice confounded. Early in the day, I landed at Utica. It is a fine, thriving town; free from all signs of age or poverty; and resembling the many towns which are found on this line from Albany to Buffalo. Sickness was prevailing here. The Rev. Mr. Aickin was just leaving, with an in- valid wife, and he himself fell sick the following day. My friend, Mr. Bethune, had left his charge here ; and I was indebted to the Rev. Mr. Hopkins for much kind at- tention in his absence. As I could not stay more than a couple of days, it was necessary that I should begin instantly to improve the time. Mr. Hopkins attended me to Oneida Institution, Hamilton College, and such objects in the town as were deserving of attention. On the previous Thursday, the place had been visited by a severe storm ; and the effects were everywhere apparent. One church tower was swept away ; thirteen houses were unroofed ; and trees without number, in the environs, were uprooted and 20 S30 ONEIDA INSTITUTION. I ;i: ' i lying in ruin. In ruin, however, the suburbs were s(ill pleasing. I was referred to a dwelling of special preten- tions ; and was told that it was built in imitation of the English cottage. Greatly would they be deceived who should take it tor a sample. Of this English cottage, the body is Gothic ; the parapet of no style ; and the portico Grecian. But what of this ! It is only such a combina- tion as we sfte in the neighbourhood of Westminster Hall. The Hamilton College occupies a very commanding spot ; and is in a thriving state. It had languished under some pecuniary ditficulties ; but Professor Dwight had used his influence in its favour, and had raised a large sum for its relief. Unhappily, the professor was not at home, nor was the College in session. I ascertained that there were some Congregational Churches in this district, and I called with Mr. Hopkins on Dr. Morton, the Secretary of the Association. We conferred for some time, and I promised to address a fra- ternal letter to the Association, which promise I after- ward redeemed. The Oneida Institution is about two miles from the town. It is estabhshed on the principle of uniting labour with learning, and has Dr. Green at its head. I was conducted over it. It has only been attempted within the last four years ; and does not yet amount to even an experiment on the subject. The young men, at present, are employed on the garden and small farm; and the trades have not yet been tried. The accommo- dations are of the plainest kind ; the library very low ; there is a reading-room, having very few books, but sup- plied with eighteen or twenty newspapers. There is attached to it a smaller provision for boys. I shall have occasion to recur to this subject. I made, while here, a hasty excursion with my friend, to the Trenton Falls. They are distant about fifteen miles. The road is bad, but the scenery good ; thu view taken from the hill, about five miles on the way, really magnificent. The Falls are just as you would desire to find them. TRENTON FALLS. 231 burbs were sdll f special preten- mitation of the B deceived who lish cottage, the and the portico uch a combina- ;sttninster Hall. ry commanding lad languished rofessor Dwight id had raised a professor was ion. Congregational th Mr. Hopkins sociation. We :o address a fra- promise I after- miles from the pie of uniting at its head. I )een attempted yet amount to young men, at id small farm; The accoromo- rary very low ; books, but sup- ers. There is I shall have with my friend, about fifteen [ood ; thu view the way, really 3 to find them. There is one inn for your accommodation, and this does not interfere in the least with the seclusion of the object. The same good taste reigns througiiout. There are more facilities provided for easy access to these Falls than are common, and yet they are far less obtrusive. Alarm has been taken because some lives were lost here recent- ly ; but I know of no great natural curiosity to be seen with less personal danger or discomfort. On leaving the hotel, you pass a wicket gate, and find yourself enclosed in a wood. You make a gradual de- scent, and are then assisted by some step-ladders, which carry you down some rocky steeps. On reaching the foot of these, the woods stand up all around you ; and below, and before you, the dark waters of the river, with their snowy crests, are chafing and dashing away through an immense bed of solid rock, which they have cut for themselves. You pass along some ledges of this rock, and the principal fall is before you. You still pursue your way on the rocks, which are sometimes contracted to narrow shelves, admitting only one person, and requi- ring care ; but which generally expand into fine terrace- walks, leaving you at leisure to wander at will. During this promenade^ the other falls make their appearance in succession. This is the great charm of these Falls, and, as I think, their distinguishing characteristic. Their character is the picturesque ; and it is this combination, with these successive distances, which compose that character. As you move on, the object accumulates upon you ; you add the second fall to the first, and the third to the second, and are delighted with your acquisi- tion. You wish continually to pause to admire the pic- ture, with its additional beauties ; and you wish to go on, expecting that every step shall make still finer addi- tions. And when you have most in view, the eye may rest on it till it becomes as one to the imagination, hav- ing a power and an elevation which do not belong to any separate fall. After having taken this combined and characteristic view, you have still to study them in their separate forms, 232 TRENTON FALLS. ' ! and from nearer pointa of si^^ht; and they will amply reward you. The principal fall, especially, asserts its power as you approach it. As you ascend to its head, it supplies you with points of view, which, if occupied, will make you tremulous and dizzy ; and when you re- pose at its feet, and look up, and see only it — hear only it — while its mass of waters, hke a bed of rolling, spark- ling amber, dash from the rocks above to the deep below, and run foaming and struggling away into the prodigious black basins beneath, you are sensible of its greatness. I passed upward as far as we can go, and compared the claims of the different cascades. The return still affords you fresh views of the objects you admire. When the eye has got familiar with the place, there is, perhaps, nothing you admire more than the coup tfceil of the whole. The rocks, the waters, the woods, the skies, wonderfully assist each other. You are in a lovely glen, open to the sun, but shut up by the rocks and the forest from all things else. Everywhere you may find the most re- freshing shade, and everywhere you have the sense of perfect retirement ; but always it is the shade and the retirement which have cheerfulness for their companion. You have a pleasurable satisfaction in where you are and what you see ; you are not disappointed that you see no more, nor are you overwhelmed that you see so much. It is a place where the spirit may repose ; it insensibly inspires you with content, placidity, and elevation. It is one of nature^s finest temples, secluded from the world, but open to heaven ; where ten thousand worshippers might stand, and whence ten thousand voices might as- cend, supported by the deep tones of the Falls, in praise to the omnipotent Creator. We took hasty refreshments at the inn, and returned, as I had to preach that evening for my friend. I was not well ; for I had taken cold in the boat, as I expected. The weather also, though still warm, had varied by 30°, and, therefore, to sensation was cold, and promoted fever and hoarseness ; but as I was announced for the service, I hoped to be able to pass through it. To my surprise, on ALBANY. 233 they will amply ially, asserts its send to its head, ich, if occupied, id when you re- ly it — hear only )f rolling, spark- • the deep below, ;o the prodigious f its greatness. >, and compared The return still admire. When here is, perhaps, til of the whole, ies, wonderfully jlen, open to the forest from all id the most re- re the sense of shade and the leir companion, ere you are and that you see no see so much. i ; it insensibly levation. It is from the world, nd worshippers Dices might as- Falls, in praise a few hours' notice, there was a large attendance ; and the people were delightfully attentive. On the following evening, I proposed that we should have a meeting of ministers and friends for conference and prayer. We had a full room, and it was increased very pleasantly by the arrival of Mr. Hague, from Boston, and Mr. Patton, from New- York. It was to me a de- lightful and profitable occasion. At this, and at other opportunities, my concern was chiefly to obtain correct information on the revivals which had occurred in this place, and throughout this line of country. They had been much talked of, and not unfrequently they had been held up, even by the friends of revivals, rather as warn- ings than examples. I had great reason to be satisfied that I had made this excursion, not only for the positive information obtained, but also for the assistance it gave me to mature an opinion on a subject of serious difficulty, but of cardinal importance. The notices that, from their locahty, might fall in here, had better be reserved, with other material, for separate consideration. The firiends at Utica were exceedingly desirous that I should spend the Sabbath with them ; especially as Mr. Patton had come to plead the educational cause, and pressed for my assistance. It would have given me great pleasure to have met their wishes, but I must have sacrificed some lonfMortimt portions of my plans ; and I had " to learn to say no." md returned, as id. I was not xpected. The }d by 30°, and, loted fever and r the service, J my surprise, on LETTER XXL My dear Friend, Early, therefore, on the morning of the 23d, I lef^ for Albany. I had had enough of tlie packets, and returned by the stage. I was still unwell from the cold I had 20* 234 SCHENECTADY. :l taken ; and, among other expressions of it, it gave me a stiff neck, which exposed me to much suffering on a bad road, in a journey of eighty miles. I think I never endured more in travelling, from pain and dust. From time to time, however, my attention was called forth by the interesting objects in this ride. Especially in the neighbourhood of the Little Falls, the scenery is most attractive. It is full of romance and picture, over which the artist and the poet might employ themselves for days and weeks, and still have much to do. I passed through two small villages near here, and on the banks of the Mohawk, which were just springing up into life. It was remarkable that the churches were growing up with the dwellings. There could not be a thousand persons in each ; but there were three churches building in one, and two in the other. We made a halt at one inn on our way ; at which we sought eagerly to refresh ourselves, in heat and dust, by a draught of cold water. The landlord, with an old Ger- man name, picked a quarrel with us, and swore at tKe times, for supplanting spirits by water. " How was he to live by giving away water !" There was something natural, if not hospitable, in this exclamation ; but it de- serves remark, that in the endless instances in which myself and others sought, in our journey, water, and noth- ing more, it was always supplied without grudging, and frequently with some trouble. We did not reach Schenectady till ten at night. I was greatly fatigued, and indisposition had increased; and I would willingly have used a hot bath, but could not obtain one. My next best remedy was medicine and rest. I tried both ; yet remained unwell. It was the Sabbath, however, and I sought a place of worship. My intention had been to go to Mr. Bachus's ; but, by mistake, I was directed to the Dutch Church, and had the gratification of uniting in a service, conducted by Dr. Ludlow, of Albany. I afterward found the church of Mr. Bachus ; but there was no regular service, and he joined me in attending once more at the Dutch Church. He I i UNION COLLEUii. 235 it, it gave me suffering on a I think I never dust. I ion was called le. Especially , the scenery is nd picture, over )loy themselves do. I passed id on the banks up into life. It rrowing up with lousand persons building in one, y ; at which we 3at and dust, by with an old Ger- id swore at tKe " How was he was something ition ; but it de- inces in which 'ater, and noth- It grudging, and in at night. I 1 had increased; [bath, but could was medicine mwell. It was ice of worship. ;hus's ; but, by lurch, and had mducted by Dr. church of Mr. \j and he joined Church. He perceived that I was unwell, and insisted on my moving to his residence, that I might nurse. I accepted his kind proposal; and was somewhat better on the following day. We visited Union College, which is situated here. It is exceedingly well placed, on an estate of about 300 acres ; and considerable property is hkely to come to it. Its plan is very large ; but I had some disappointment in not findii.T^ it executed. At the inn there was a large pai-ting of the whole ; and some genilemen, on referring to it, exclaimed, " There, is not that a splendid place 1 That is Union College !" and these circumstances gave reality to the thing. But on arriving at the spot, I found that only the wings were erected. On its present scale, however, it is thriving ; and there is the prospect of its" becoming as magnificent as it was proposed to be. Most of the professors were absent, but I was introdu- ced to the President, Dr. Nott ; a person known in Brit- ain, chiefly as the inventor of the stove which bears his name. He is known in his own country as having been one of her most able and efficient ministers, and as hav- ing contributed mainly to found the College over which he presides. He was free to converse on the subjects to which you led the way ; but it was evident to me that his mind was filled with some engrossing care. One successful invention, like a prize in the lottery, often leads to ruin. His success with the stove may have led to other speculations ; till he may find himself op- pressed with the weight of worldly care, from which he would, but cannot, disburden himself. At noon, I took leave of my friend and brother, Mr. Bachus, and went to Albany, where I found Dr. Sprague expecting my return. I had not yet seen much of this town, and there was much that challenged inspection. The principal buildings stand on the top of the hill, call- ed the Capitol ; from which a fine wide street runs down to the river, and the closer parts of the town. The Cap- itol, or State-House, occupies the very summit of this hill, and has a noble appearance^ from its dimensions and 236 FEMALE ACADEMY. % ^i ^fl elevation. The City Hall is of white marble, and worthy to be its companion. The Institute and the Academy are here also ; and are respectable foundations. They make, as a cluster of public structures, a grand spectacle ; ahhough they have nothing, as works of art, demanding separate encomium. The Orphan Asylum, in the vicin- ity, is well conducted. Besides these, there are two new erections, which, from their pretensions, may require notice. The one is the Female Academy. It is a large and very handsome portico, of the Ionic order ; and it is only to be lamented that, with the exception of the base of the columns and the steps, it is constructed of wood, and not of marble. The hghts under the portico are objectionable ; and a great deal is sacrificed within for the sake of external ornament. As a school for female education, it is, however, very remarkable ; the first of its kind in this country ; and it will require further con- sideration. The other erection is a church, for the use of Dr. Welch and his congregation. It is a very ambitious af- fair. All the good and approved things, it is attempted to combine ; there are portico, turret, and dome. They are all executed after the best models, and with expen- sive ornament. On entering beneath the portico, you are surprised to find yourself, not in a lofty church, but in a room with low ceiling, and every way plain appearance. The fact is, the church is still above you ; and by this arrangement height is gained for the external elevation, and a good lecture and school-room are provided for the uses of the congregation. I ascended to the church. It is well arranged and fitted ; except that the Corinthian columns, which rise from fioor to ceiUng, interrupt the sight, and are made to carry, in their way, the galleries. Dr. Welch is a Baptist ; and one inconvenience in hav- ing the church over the room is, that he could not sink a baptistery in the fioor. To meet this difiiculty, a large oval tub, like a brewer's vat, is provided ; it is placed on rollers and slides, and is drawn out from beneath the pulpit when it is wanted. It stands three or four feet iiigi tize( othe mini whic stres the 1 they ] comi : the V hype Tl to th( letter tions sor T^ my iv wanv« The c the St genci* libera I the vo i made On coach I \ JOURNEY. 237 rble, and worthy d the Academy idations. They rrand spectacle ; ■ art, demanding I3n, in the vicin- , there are two ons, may require ly. It is a large order ; and it is ption of the base tructed of wood, ■ the portico are rificed within for school for female ible ; the first of luire further con- (^ nigh ; and must, therefore, expose the persons to be bap- tized. Apart from this inconvenience, I know of none other, except it be that it deprives the worthy and popular minister of one argument from scriptural expressions, on which his brethren have been accustomed to lay great stress. It can no longer be said that they go down into the water, and come up out of the water ; for the fact is, they reverse the order, and go up into the water, and come down from the water. How far this may affect the validity, is a question which must be left with the hypercritics to determine. The evening of the day, which had been thus devoted to the inspection of objects illustrative of the state of art, letters, and rehgion, was spent in interesting conversa- tions at Dr. Sprague's. Chancellor Walworth, Profes- sor T^' ^-'Iftr, and other friends, took part in them, much to my i -age. The revivals of that vicinity, and the wan ' ihe West, were mostly the subjects before us. The chancellor had, especially, good means of knowing the state of the West ; and he candidly admitted the exi- gencies, as I was disposed to refer to them ; but his de- liberate opinion was, that the remedy was to be found in the voluntary principle, and not in any supposed provision made by the State. On the morning of the 26th, I was to start with the coach at two o'clock. But, instead of coming at two, it came at one ; and when this was complained of, the re- ply was, " That it was best to be before time." With too much kindness. Dr. Sprague arose to see me start fairly. We were not certain of meeting again, and, in fact, have not met since that night. We cleared the town ; crossed the bridge ; and got out into the open country. The moon was sailing through the clouds, and by her occasional lights was re- vealing to us a wild and hilly prospect. We made an ascent of a stiff hill ; and came up with the Hartford stage, which was halting in the road. The driver had just ascertained that the boot had been robbed ; and they were waiting to challenge us to the pursuit and rescue. :'')• i^'l 238 PURSUIT. The young man whose property was missing, whined piteously, and entreated help — " He had lost a large trunk, with thirty dollars in it, besides other valuables." There was little need of this, not very heroic, plead- ing. Our party was strong, and in high spirits ; there was .something chivalrous in the deed ; and they were ready for the chase. They put to the test the safety of our own luggage ; agreed on the perc^ns who should take charge of the teams ; and set forward on the search Still tiij effort had a very hopeless appearance about it, The misty moonlight lay on the road and its green mar- gin, and made itself felt ; but beyond this, all was wild forest, on whose shadows it could make no impression, and where a hundred robbers, with all their booty, might find speedy and effectual cover. The force divided it- self into two parties, and decided on the tracks to be taken. Each one armed himself with stick, or otherwise, as he best could ; ior they did not know the strength of the foe. A dog fell in with the party to which our driver was attached ; and he was wise enough to let it lead. It led them to the spot where lay the black trunk, and the discovery was announced to the other pursuers by the cry which shot up among them, " Hurrah ! the trunk is found." It appeared that the robber or robbers had not been able to run "vith it far, and were proceeding to rifle it of its contents, when they must have been alarm- ed. The straps were cut off, but they had not yet been able to force the lock, so that all was safe. It also ap- peared that the faithful dog, which had been the chief agent in finding the trunk, had first, by his barking, given notice of the robbery. The driver, on looking back to the dog, saw some moving shadows in the distance ; and this sight may be supposed to have maimed his courage, for he certainly took but a small share in the general hue and cry. This dog would afterward follow our coach aid driver, as if for our protection. We could not induce it to go back ; and it really went till we changed both, a distance of twelve miles. Of course, the animal was in high favour with us all. fast itb this The /res 1 Pitti ; muc I and i this ■ c:h0S ; hotel of hi wher ; chant . Ther( In scene and d( told t place, most bad. by the groum living. On I roundt glens, beauty though than gorge cedar, swept the tin and ch they w them WINDSOR. 239 missing, whined lad lost a large )ther valuables." ;ry heroic, plead- Th spirits; there '; and they were test the safety of c^ns who should aid on the search earance about it, | nd its green mar- his, all was wild ke no impression, their booty, might ^ force divided it- the tracks to be jtick, or otherwise, w the strength of o which our driver lugh to let it lead, black trunk, and other pursuers by Hurrah ! the trunk er or robbers had jere proceeding to ; have been alarm- T had not yet been safe. It also ap- id been the chief I his barking, given n looking back to I the distance; and I aimed his courage! ire in the general irward follow owl )n. We could not jnt till we changed! course, the animal The place at which we stopped supplied us with break- fast. It is sixteen miles from ^ Voany, and we reached it by six o'clock ; so that the night was lost in running this short distance, and this was altogether unnecessary. The country began to improve on our way ; and the re- freshment of dressing and food prepared us to enjoy it. Pittsfield is a pleasant town, surrounded by scenery of much beauty. Lebanon is remarkable for its springs, and the Shaker settlement. Like all the settlements of this singular people which I have seen, it is admirably chosen, and as admirably cultivated. The springs and hotels attached to them are raised midway on the breasts of hills that are swelling into mountains ; and every- where around the rides and prospects must be most en- chanting. In this respect it greatly excels Saratoga. There was a pretty good show of company. In the middle of the day we got out of this class of scenery ; and travelled over the face of hills, wild, bleak, and desolate. We paused at a house to dine, and were told that the place was Windsor. It is a miserable place. There are a few sad houses on the baldest and most barren rock. The inn is bad, and the dinner was ; bad. And every thing is made more waste and desolate, ;by the pri;^cipal object in the scene being a naked burial- S ground, which told you that the dead outnumbered the i living. On descending to lower ground, we were again sur- i rounded with gushing streams, nodding pines, lovely I glens, and hill-tops. Over a great part Oi ihis field of [beauty, the storm which smote Utica had passed; and, though it had travelled so far, had rather accumulated than exhausted its awful power. It had passed down a gorge in the hills like a torrent, uprooting pine and cedar, and casting them about in every direction. It had swept over Cummington and Goshen, laying prostrate the timber of a whole farm, and unroofing the dwellings and churches. It had overtaken a father and a child as they were descending a hill-side in their carriage, swept them from the ground, and precipitated tbem into the !•> 240 AMHERST. ' ■ f k\ .a river sixty feet below ! The father recovered, but he lost his boy. About seven in the evening J reached Northampton ; but so unwell with the fever that still hung on me, that I was compelled, aftei writing a note to Dr. Penny, to retire. Contrary to my request, he came to me immedi- ately, and became at once affectionately concerned for my welfare. He introduced me to the special care of the landlord, saw me provided with what was needful, and would not leave me till he had procured some sim- ples at the druggist's for my use. What with these precautions, and some sound rest, which perhaps I most wanted, I awoke in the Morning much improved, and agreed to my friend's proposal to transfer my home from the inn to his residence. My amended health was the more grateful, as it allowed me to go with him to Amherst College. This was the day (the 27th) of the Commencement; and a principal object of my last journey had been lost, had I not been able to attend. Amherst College has arisen out of the defection of Cambridge ; so that the eruption of error at one extremity of the State, has been the establishment of it at the other. The Commencement is what we should, perhaps, call the Termination, for it is the end of the session ; it is thus named, because the collegians take their degrees at this time, and thus commence a new period of literary life. Everywhere the Commencements are regarded as holydays ; and as such, they particularly harmonize with the habits and tastes of the people. Tliey hare not the vanities of fairs, nor the strictness of a religious ser- vice ; and they attract not merely the religious, but the people at large, and thus extend to th' more worldly portions of the community a measure of religious influ- ence. We arrived early in the morning, but the services had made some advance, and the church was crammed to such a degree as to prevent our access. Dr. Penny, for my sake, engaged the services of some stewards oi AMHERST. 241 ecovered, but he d Northampton ; hung on me, that to Dr. Penny, to ne to me immedi- ly concerned for le special care of hat was needful, )cured some sim- some sound rest, e in the ntorning end's proposal to residence. My as it allowed me This was the day a principal object I not been able to the defection of >r at one extremity neni of it at the ^e should, perhaps, of the session ; it take their degrees V period of literary snts are regarded cularly harmonize 3. They have not of a religious ser- religious, but the th' more worldly of reUgious influ- t the services had was crammed to i. Dr. Penny, for tome stewards or officers for the day, and by these means I made my way up the aisles, and found myself comfortably seated in a pew, and by the side of my friend Dr. Spring. I was afterward obliged to take a prepared seat, with Mr. Malheson, on the platform. The sight was an interesting one. The President, Dr. Humphrey, was in the pulpit. A platform was * formed below and around the pulpit, on which the Trus- tees and the English Deputation were accommodated, a I considerable space being reserved for the use of those ■ who were to deliver the addresses. The clergy occu- pied the pews nearest the platform ; and beyond these, in the area and the galleries, the spaces were filled in by ) a crowd of animated faces, the ladies occupying the sitting, and the men the standing accommodation. A choir of considerable size, and ii ■•omething of a uniform, » occupied the centre of the front, gallery, to relieve the exercises by suitable musical performances. Every student, as he completes his terms with honour to himself, is understood to be entitled to exhibit ^ n these occasions ; and it seldom happens that any one desires to be excused ; so that where the college is large, the number yearly qualified is considerable. There is some inconvenience in making so many addresses in a single morning ; but, on the whole, it is found to have less evil than would attend any principle of selection. The faculty know before the length of the addresses, and they are mostly limited to about a quarter of an hour. At this time there were twenty-three engaged to make orations ; musical interludes occurred after every sixth or seventh speech ; and the whole audience were fully aware of the order of the speakers, by a handbill dis- tributed throughout the place. It will not be expected that I should exactly report, or rigidly criticise, these juvenile performances. It may be sufficient to say, that they were highly interesting, as the indications of good reading, good sense, and correct taste. They certainly must have passed under a skilful pruning-knife, or they would have shown many more Vol. I.— L 21 '/ 242 ENTERTAINMENT. l\- :%• ' ; juvenilities. A very good poem was delivered ; one address had some admirable touches of true eloquence about it. On one subject, Phrenology, two students acted the part of appellant and respondent in clever style. But especially it was delightful to find in a col- lege, which is not a theological institution, so many in- timations of pious sentiment and correct rehgious prin- ciple. • A single circumstance deserves notice. One of the graduates, whose name was down to participate in the exercises, had sickened, and died. All the students wore crape on his account, and you wondered what notice would be taken of it. Not any was taken till, in the course of the service, they came to his name. Then there was a pause. The people had their attention awakened by this ; they looked at the bill ; and they felt its solemnity. Still no lips were opened to pronounce a eulogy ; but presently some plaintive notes broke from the instrumental music in the choir, and a requiem of Mozart's was played with solemn and touching slow- ness. Not a person but felt the delicacy of this recog- nition ; not a person but was affected by it. The last oration is pecuUar. One of the senior students is appointed to offer congratulatory or farewell addresses to the persons present. He addressed the President, then the Trustees ; then (on this occasion) the Deputation from England; then his Class-fellows. These acknowledgments and greetings, when expressing the sentiments natural to the occasion, are appropriate and impressive. Previously to this last oration, the President distributes the diplomas, repeating a short Latin form of presenta- tion; and the parties so honoured take their seat in the front of the gallery. The whole is closed by a short address from the President, and prayer. The engage- ments began at nine, and ceased about three o'clock. After the service, we passed over the green to the dining-rooms. About 300 persons sat down to dinner, and most of them were clergymen. It was plain, and ■r IIADLEY. 243 ivered ; one le eloquence vo students t in clever ind in a col- 30 many in- ligious prin- One of the ;ipate in the he students dered what taken till, in ime. Then ir attention ind they felt 3 pronounce lotes broke d a requiem iching slow- this recog- the senior or farewell Iressed the occasion) ass-fellows, expressing appropriate distributes f presenta- seat in the by a short he engage- o'clock, een to the 1 to dinner, plain, and as cold as the weather would allow; good joints and tarts were in abundance, but neither wine nor spirits were to be seen. The claims of nature were soon answered ; and, as there was no inducement to stay afterward, the company soon dispersed. Shortly after we had separated, one of the brethren who dined with us in perfect health, and with whom I had just shaken hands, was seized by death while partaking of a water- melon, and quickly expired. " In the midst of hfe we are in death !" Phny Dickinson was in the prime of life, and the fulness of health, when he found himself in the arms of death ! The green which opened before us on quitting the dinner-table, offered a lively and busy sight. There were innumerable carriages of all descriptions, which had brought the present visiters to the spot ; and num- bers of persons, who had come rather in search of amusement than profit. Yet there was no sport, no show, no merry-making of any kind. But there was, as remarkably characteristic, in the midst of this bustle, a Yankee auctioneer, resolved to improve the occasion. He was mounted in a cart, and selUng^ oi trying to sell, books, prints, harness, and carriages — the very carriage he came in. I left early with Dr. Penny ; and most of the company had left or were leaving. There was not the least sign of disorder nor of excess, either in eating or drinking. He proposed to diversify the ride, by passing through Hadley ; and it afforded me much gratification. Hadley is situated on a loop of verdant land, formed by the beautiful windings of the Connecticut. It is one of the most rural and patriarchal of villages. Detached cot- tages run along the sides of this green parterre, and form a beautiful margin to the quiet river behind them. The church stands out in the centre of the picture ; and everywhere the fine drooping elms, which abu ad in this vicinity, are concealing, revealing, and overshadowing Ihe various objects that compose it. And here is, chiefly, a veteran oak, said to bear on its gnarled sides a registry, L2 ( .» 244 WHALLEY AND GOLFE. made by the Indians, of the )f the differ- waters ent period- The church is adequate to the wants of this people ; and so happy is the village, that there is no family that does not use it. Besides these objects, which immediately meet the eye, here is shown a cellar in which the regicides, Whalley and Golfe, were concealed for many years. A remarkable anecdote is preserved of the former ; and so well supported as to bo placed beyond distrust. The Indians had attacked a village adjacent to Hadley while the people were at church, and massacred most of them. On a Sabbath day, while the parishioners of Hadley were in like manner, assembled for worship, a report sprung up in the congregation that the Indians were coming. The men were from home, and without arms ; and their little ones and dear ones would be the first to feel the vengeance of the foe. The suddenness of the report, and their sense of defencelessness, unmanned them ; and they remained irresolute, when to be so was sure destruction. At this crisis, a stranger, with a worn countenance, silver beard, hermit's dress, and commanding aspect, appeared among them. He reproached them with their panic cowardice ; urged them not to wait for the enemy ; assured them that there was time to redeem the delay ; and called them on to victory. As if an angel spoke, they obeyed ; as if an angel led them, they fought. Everywhere the stranger was present, to command and to meet the fiercest onset of the barbarous foe. And everywhere, when he appeared, the enemy stood back, till the struggle ended in decided triumph. Relieved from their conflict and their fears, every one looked round for their deliverer ; but he was not to be found. This deliverer was Whalley, who had left his cave to do this deed, and who returned to it the instant it was done. What wonder if these villagers, at that distance of time, and with their rural and religious habits, believed that it was a supernatural appearance sent for their salvation ] NORTHAMPTON. 245 iters at differ- the wants of at there is no ;ely meet the the regicides, ,ny years. A rmer ; and so iistrust. The Hadley while most of them. rs of Hadley ship, a report Indians were without arms ; be the first to enness of the ss, unmanned to be so was countenance, nding aspect, lem with their or the enemy ; ;m the delay ; angel spoke, they fought, command and us foe. And ly stood back, >h. Relieved ^ one looked ; to be found, lis cave to do it was done, ance of time, slieved that it iir salvation] LETTER XXII. Mv DEAR Friend, Mr. Mathgson made his way from Amherst on to Meredith ; but, as it was my first visit, I determined to stay over the Sabbath at Northampton. It seemed, beyond most other places, to afford the best field for ob- servation ; and I was encouraged to expect every assist- ance in my inquiries from the pastors here, in conjunction with Dr. Humphrey. My state of health, indeed, would have almost made this course necessary ; though I had sensibly reached a climate more genial to me. The heat, too, was greatly abated ; and tho weather was very like our fine September seasons. This beautiful town has a population of about 3,000, and in the township, a square of six miles, there are about 3,600. It has a main street, short, not too regu- lar ; ornamented by three churches and a court-house ; running down a slope bounded by sylvan cottages, and each way looking into the country. The other streets, or verdant lanes, follow the ancient cow-walks, and wind in graceful lines about the foot and the breast of the hills on which the town is planted. On these lines appear, at various elevations, detached cottages, of con- siderable dimensions and in good taste. They are of wood, indeed, but in nice preservation; and, with their white fronts, Venetian blinds, piazzas, and porticoes, have the air of so many galleries of Italian villas. But the great beauty of these lanes and villas, is the wood scenery which is mixed with it and surmounts it ; and especially the abundance of the Witch-elm, which is of prodigious size, and weeps like a willow, and is the image of what is most strong, most graceful. From the more elevated villas, you look over the clustering dwel- lings below you, to one of the most fertile of plains, 21* 246 NORTHAMPTON. ,1^ \ covered with maize, bruom-corn, and grcon pasturage. Hero the Connecticut, whicli is sometimes seen dashing among the falls, winds its way so peacefully along, as to treble its distance by its length, as if charmed by the objects it reflected. And beyond this rise the mount- ains, which bound the view, standing up before you in decided forms, and clothed with the primitive forest, or running oif to the horizon, and mingUng their hues with the skies. I was really charmed with this place ; the more so, as Northampton, above all other places, had been most familiarized to my imagination. It was a pleasure to find the suggestions of the mind exceeded, as they un- doubtedly were, in this instance. Every thing speaks of peace, of comfort, of retirement ; of retirement re- lieved and endeared by society. The moral aspects, like those of nature, are pleasant and promising. The pleasure you receive is not, indeed, of that sudden and stimulating kind which must be temporary because it is violent ; it is that pleasure which may sit with you in the house, attend you on the wayside, retire with you at night, rise with you in the morning, and live with you ever, refreshing all things where it comes. I have seen no place in this country at which I would so willingly reside ! I made a visit, while here, to Mount Holyoke, in com- pany with my friend Mr. Stoddard. This spot has great fame, and is more frequented by visiters than any other in New-England, or perhaps in the Union. It is thought to be the very best that is to be seen ; but I have many exceptions to make against that opinion. Let us, how- ever, glance at it. We ascended the hill, full two thirds of its height, with our gig, and then, securing our horse, proceeded to complete the ascent on foot. It is some- what precipitous ; but the way is made easy by good foothold. When you have attained the right point of sight, you will see the river, of which before you had only a glance, stretching itself away some thirty miles, still doubling il I HOLYOKE. 247 rcon pasturage, es seen dashing cfuUy along, as charmed by the rise the mount- > before you in nitive forest, or their hues with I ; the more so, had been most is a pleasure to ied, as they un- ;ry thing speaks f retirement re- moral aspects, tromising. The that sudden and iry because it is sit with you in tire with you at 1 live with you I have seen luld so willingly [olyoke, in com- spot has great than any other It is thought |ut I have many Let us, how- full two thirds iring our horse, It. It is uome- easy by good of sight, you only a glance, still doubling itself, so as frequently to look as two; and having on its ^rlassy bosom a number of Mmall vessels, with their broad white sails covetous of the breeze. On either side is sjjread the finest and most considerable valley of New- Kn^land, called after the name of the river which waters it, and running away into other valleys, which are grad- ually lost to sight. Tliose very distant hills which bound the view in the line of the river, and are almost hidden in the gray mist, are said to be the rocks of New-Haven, a distance of seventy miles. On looking to y ur left, you are surprised to see the hills and mountains stand out in such bold and broken forms, by their proximit}*^, size, and dark foliage, giving great force to the pi^iure ; wiiile behind them the ground shoots away in hill and dule, with Hadley just under you, and Amherst smiling through the sun in the distance. On your right, again, is Northampton, not robbed of its beauty, but reduced in prominence, so as to harmonize with the whole. You now look over its smaller hills into other valleys, and the more remote hills which form the boundaries of the State. Vou have now an extensive and varied scene before and around you. Its great charm — and for this country its great peculiarity — is, that it is raised to such a degree of cultivation. The extensive clearances and remaining woods give to it the animation of light and shadow ; and the number of towns and villages (not less than thirty) wliich are half revealed to you on its lovely surface, assure you of human life and quiet enjoyment, and awaken all the human sympathies. If this 'f -sOt the finest thing in the States, it has enough to commend it to admiration and praise. It resembles, more than most scenes, some of our finest valley pictures. There is a shed built here for the ace )mmodation of visiters, opening both ways on the panoramic scenes. The good people should do more. They should erect a small tower, only sufficiently high to allow the spectator to take in the whole without obstruction from the trees. The spot is worthy of it ; it would cost little ; and would 248 RATTLESNAKE. ■■,»! t I I bring them much honour. The present rickety shed is a hinderance, not a help. By-the-by, I had at this shed a sight the reverse of that which I have described. The person who stays here to receive visiters had taken a rattlesnake on the hill- side, and he added to his gains by showing it. It was in a large rough box ; he threw the lid backward against the wall, and the reptile appeared folded up, and slowly raising its head, as if from sleep. It was large, from three to four feet long, and very handsomely marked. Its head and eye were fearful. The man provoked it with a stick. It rose nearer to the head of the box; light glared in its projecting eyes ; and it used its rattle fiercely and repeatedly. There was nothing between it and us. I never expected to be so near to so deadly a creature, unconfined, and chafed, and provoked, without fear. Northampton is chiefly known and endeared to us by the name of Edwards ; and I was very desirous to learn what I could of this admirable man, and of the effects of his opinions and labours. I visited the spot where he lived ; but the house is demoUshed. If any thing could incline one to leniency for such an offence , it is that a very tasteful cottage occupies its place. There are, however, in the front of the grass-plot, two trees which are said to have been planted by his hand. They belong to the class I have already noticed ; they are of majestic growth, and droop beautifully — among the noblest of thjir kind. They are fine living memorials of the man, | and promise to live for ages to come. Nothing, perhaps, has perplexed us more in the life I of Edwards, than the circumstance of his sudden and | painful separation from his church here, after his remark- able usefulness among them. It has contributed to shake I our confidence in the results of the previous revivals ; | and mostly the people have been exposed to severe rep« rehension. Without intending to justfy or condemn] either party, the following remarks may assist to an I amended judgment of the case. JONATHAN EDWARDS. 249 nt rickety shed is 1. Edwards asked too much at once. The people lad been educated in different views on the subject of •ommunion ; and to have enforced his stricter terms, vould have affected them as citizens, as well as Chris- ians. The law of the State then forbade any man to ise his rights in the commonwealth, unless he was in |;ommunion with a church. Those who would have been least concerned about terms of communion, had they louched only religious privileges, were most excited by |he effect they had on those that were civil and social. 2. While the more worldly portion of the parishioners ere thus suddenly exasperated at the prospect of degra- ation in society, the truly pious people were not pre- ared to uphold, zealously, the stricter plans of their min- ster. The subject was new to them ; the system in ivhich Ihey had been educated, and which had the sanc- lion of Stoddard, was the system on which they looked ivith partiality. Besides this, their pastor, while living mong them, was, to their common minds, only a common an. As great unpleasantness had arisen, a change light be good for both parties ; and they expected if he hould leave, they should still find as suitable a minister. 3dly. Then, it must be admitted, that the manners of dwards were neither social nor prudent. He was a ecluse and a student, labouring for the church universal nd generations to come ; this his people did not appre- late. And he certainly was not prudent in the use of inisterial authority. It is remarkable, too, as an anom- ly, that while his opinions were in advance of his IS, his practice was often behind them. He adopted ethods of public rebuke and humiliation which were elting obsolete ; and inspired the people with fear, lest, f not themselves, their friends and children, should be xposed to such odious disciphne. Those who know something of human nature may asily comprehend how fewer and lighter circumstances ay lead to a crisis, such as we have often deplored in [the life of Edwards ; and when the case is really seen, |iiot as we now are accustomed to look at it, but as tho L3 250 SOLOMON STODDARD. ,} acting parties saw it at the time, it will appear that it[ might happen without great blame to either. The body of the professing people here have been at- tached, from the earliest settlement, not only to orthodox sentiment, but to true piety. A pleasing instance of this occurs in relation to the first pastor, Solomon Stoddard. He was engaged on an emergency for this people, when at Boston, and about to sail for Scotland. The good people, however, soon suffered disappointment, for hel gave no indications of a renewed and serious mind. In this difficulty their resource was prayer. They agreed to set apart a day for special fasting and prayer, in refer- ence to their pastor. Many of the persons, in meeting] for this purpose, passed, necessarily, the door of the min ist.er. Mr. Stoddard hailed a plain man whom he knew,! and addressed him : " What is all this ? What is doing] to-day ■?" The reply was, " The people, sir, are all meet- ing to pray for your conversion." It sunk into his hean, He is said to have exclaimed to himself, •' Then it is] time I prayed for myself !" He was not seen that day. He was seeking in solitude what they were asking in] company ; and " while they were yet speaking," they] were heard and answered. The pastor gave unqueS' tionable evidence of the change ; he laboured among a] beloved and devoted people for nearly half a century] and was for that period deservedly ranked with the most useful and able ministers of the New Testament. The influence of his labours, and those of Presideni Edwards, remains visibly and most happily over this peO' pie. The pious persons have much gravity and steadi- ness of character ; they incline, after their great teacher, to metaphysical distinctions ; require to be addressed] through the understanding, and look vigilantly to theirj motives of action. Those who cannot venture on the ground of nice spec- ulation, express the same fixedness of mind, in an at- tachment to the simple elements of religion, and to the means of religious worship. When, as yet, no taste may be awakened towards these objects, the sense of duty 0. REGARD TO WORSHIP. 251 ivill appear that itl i^^ ^^ie force of habit will constrain conformity. Two either. | ij, ji^^gg instances are so characteristic, they must not be here have been at-l Ljjtted. iOt only to o^^^^odoxl J j^j^ -w.^ the former pastor, had been incensed by his sing instance of^thbygjgjjjjQyj.>g gggse straying into his garden. He threat- ed that if they should do so he would kill them ; and one occasion, in a moment of vexation, he did kill one them. Now it happened that the geese were the prop- ty of a widow, and were under the care of her daugh- ^r Mary ; and the one killed was a pet of Mary's. She lyer. They agreedB^g ^^^ g^g^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ mischief ; and, full of distress, and prayer, in refer-^g ^^^ within, exclaiming, " O, mother, will you think Mr. W. has killed the goose !" — " Killed the goose, child !" cried the astonished mother. " Yes, mother; I think I shall never be able to go to church to hear again !" This allusion to church restored the parent m present anger. " Mary !" she said, " never speak h a word as that, my child !" — " Well, then, mother," repUed, checking herself, " I think I shall never be Solomon Stoddard. J r this people, wheni otland. The goodl ippointment, for hel 1 serious mind. Inl persons, in meetingl the door of the min-f man whom he knew,! lis 1 What is doingl pie, sir, are all meet-[ t sunk into his heart! imself, " Then it isl s not seen that dayMg ^^ g^ without thinking of my goose !" hey were asking yet speaking," they] )astor gave unques-l 5 laboured among al arly half a century; anked with the mosi Testament, those of President appily over this peo- gravity and steadi- their great teacher, e to be addressedl vigilantly to theii| rround of nice spec-' of mind, in an at- religion, and to thd |as yet, no taste may the sense of duty' imong the attendants at church is a person who in- Iges in intemperate habits. The ministry of Dr. Penny Is and confounds him ; yet he attends. He told him [t he would give him a couple of thousand dollars if [would leave the town, for he thought he should shoot some day. Still this man never thinks of leaving |irch, as a remedy which he has in his own hands ! )ne of the parishioners, on getting married, and refer- to his conduct in domestic life, remarked to his pas- with complacency, that he had set up family prayer, jamily prayer !" said the minister, " but you swear 1, don't you 1" — " Well, but you know," he replied, 16 must have family prayer. Of the two, I had rather up swearing than family prayer." Habit and ex- 3le had taught him to look on it as a part of the fur- ore of domestic hfe ! Phe more remote influence is striking and beneficial. ere are very few famiUes in the whole township with- domestic worship ; there are not more than three 252 YOUNG PARTY. Hi *j i !'■ f !-■ I families unconnected with a place of worship; t^^.'e an not half a dozen persons given to intoxication. Ther| is no poverty ; there are no criminals ; the jail is ofte, empty for three months together ; and the judge passe o-.i his way, having no dehvery to make. A lady's ve was found lately on the high road. It was hung on tfc hedge by the wayside ; it remained there all day, an: in fact, till the owner came and claimed it. Their morality has yet a higher complexion. ' small evidence is given of this in their treatment of t ministers of the mother church. They agree to thi salary in common hall. Dr. Penny's, as the acti pastor, passes as a matter of course. But Mr. Williai has resigned his charge, and is wholly superannuate! Yet they do not say of him, He is a withered tree ! .A they agree, as freely and without remark, to the sal; he has always enjoyed. This I think noble, and the di icacy admirable. Yet these people are a plain peop! who shall say they are not refined and elevated 1 I embraced readily all opportunities of intercou with this excellent people, and the views they gave of their social and doi:; Uic habitudes v/ere very grate! The society is somewhat more mixed than it might found in most towns of its size ; as, from its reputa! for comfort and beauty, many families in easy circi stances have retired hither. I attended with my frii Dr. Penny, on one occasion, a party of considerable s We were introduced to a pretty suite of rooms, in of the cottages on the hillside which I have noticj There were from fifty to sixty persons present ; moi young persons, and all in a state of Christian commui The intercourse was unconstramed and cheerful manners amiable, without reserve and without assi lion ; the tout ensemble equal to any thing of its kini our own land. I had good opportunities of conversing with the f persons, and especially those who had recent' joined church. I found them intelligent, well-taught, affi benevolent, and pious. Dr. Penny collected sevl wit the 20( in s dre! cloj pra] sup the to v C ing the chu: to £ mig wer of thro ing. L an c will ent. reac SABBATH DAY. 253 young female friends around me, and we got into full conversation. He called them his children ; and looking on them with pastoral complacency, wanted to know if I could equal them from among my English circleSi This was a challenge playfully given ; my looks told him, if they were true to me, that I did not shrink from it. But I have seldom been in so engaging a circle. You must not accuse me of national partiality, if I say, I felt it to be unusually English. The open heart, the win- ning smile, the bright intelligence, the simple white dresses, and the fresh complexion, which is less common here, all reminded me of some of our sweetest youthful circles at horae. I had an opportunity of attending a prayer-meeting with this people. It was on the evening, and held in the court-house. There were, I should suppose, about 200 present. Dr. Penny presided. It was conducted in a similar manner to our own, except that the short ad- dress was given at the commencement instead of the close, and in this instance, formed a sort of guide to the prayers. Two of the brethren were called on to offer supplications. They did so in an edifying manner ; and the people participated, as those who were accustomed to value the exercise. On the Sabbaih I had engaged to preach in the even* ing ; but had reserved the other portions of the day for the piivilege of hearing. I attended at the mother church in the morning. It is larger than most, and equal to any I have seen. It will seat 1,600 persons, and might be made to accommodate many more. There were perhaps 1,400 assembled. I sat by an old standard of the place, and sang cut of a book that had passed through three generations. The services were interest- ing. The sermon, on this occasion, was read. In the afternoon I worshipped at the Edwards Church, an offshoot from this, and only about two years old. It will seat about 800 people, and about 300 were now pres- ent. Mr. Todd, the excellent pastor, officiated. He read his sermon ; and all the services were well sustain* S3 C*'--.] 4 254 BURIAL-GROUND. if ed. Both himself and Dr. Penrty are recently settled here. They are different men ; but they understand each other, and act in perfect accordarice. In the first separ- ation of the younger church, there v a.« sonno fenlio^ to allay. Had they meanly attemjtod to rromrfe thf it in- dividual importance by increasing il, it wouM iiave sown iliscord in both communities , but their determined co-operai.ion has annihilated the jealousies which were contingent on the separation, and though meeting on dif* ferent spots, they are truly one community. Nothing vas more btriking to a stranger thav» the great punctuality in attending the (all of worsh > I was pre- pared to see them go, but not as tli:-y did. While the bell i? ringing, the people pass along the streets like a stream ; when it has ceased, the town looks like a de- seised village. In the morning our watches deceived us, and Dr. Penny and myself happened to be a trifle too late. I saw nobody on the way — and nobody entering — I feared we should have a bod attendance. The fact was, the church was full. Scarcely anybody came in after we had entered. In the evening I was to preach to the joint congrega- tions. I walked out to the burial-ground, which had be- come a favourite resort to me as a place of study. It is very attractive. For pious remains and memorials it is the Bunhill Fields of Northampton ; and m every thing else it has the advantage. Its size is considerable, and it has received additions lately. The ground awells pleasantly ; it is not neglected, nor is it exactly kept, so that it has an air of freedom and negligence not unbe- coming. It is near the town, so that the dead are not forgotten ; and it is out of the town, so that it is not liable to disturbance. The aspect is serious and solitary, but not depressing ; the earUest and latest lights of the summer day glance sweetly over it. The setting sun found me pacing alone its verdant and unfrequented paths. There were no recent interments to give you distress ; and the white marble slabs spoke of piety, hope, and endless life. Here and there, a» h::;H BRAINERD S TOMB. 255 recently settled .indcrstand each the first separ" jonio feoHvii? to rororte tUtir in- it woul I i«ave their determined ies which 'verc meeting on dif- ity. er thcvi the great h ,, 1 waspre- did. While the the streets like I looks hke a de- ;hes deceived us, » be a trifle too abody entering — ance. The fact nybody came in 3 joint congrega- id, which had be- 5 of study. It is 1 memorials it is ;d in every thing considerable, and e ground swells exactly kept, so igence not unbe- ;he dead are not so that it is not ■ious and solitary, test lights of the ne its verdant and ecent interments irble slabs spoke sre and there, as guardian of the spot, stood the aged elm-tree, casting silently its long shadows over the silent graves ; and everywhere the grass had tufted itself around them, while Aaron's rod, that buddeth, with its profusion of yellow blossoms, waved gently over them. It was a delightful retirement. Not a creature was to be seen, not a sound to be heaid, except the distant lowing of the domestic cow. Nothing moved except myself, and a few birds which were flitting about, with no song, but a plaintive note, as if lamenting a hand that fed them, but feeds them no more. Here I walked till I was weary, and then I rested on the tomb of Brainerd, desirous in the recollection of him to find an improved state of mind for my own duties. I passed from the ground to the church. It was quite full, being a contribution not only from four joint churches, but from the Episcopalian and Unitarian also. My ser- vices were kindly received. Before my arrival at this place, I had learned from Mr. Todd that there had been a considerable revival during the last winter in the town, and in proportion as by knowl- edge I acquired confidence in the excellent pastors, I was anxious to possess myself of exact information on the subject. I had lengthened conversations with them, and with Mr. Solomon Stoddard, the descendant of the pastor of that name, for this purpose. The latter gentleman, with the sanction of the ministers, has been kind enough to supply me with the substance of these communications ; and as it will doubtless be a most acceptable document to you on every account, I shall insert the whole of it as the summary of what is most important, in leaving this interesting place and people. " Northampton, in Massachusetts, on Connecticut river, is a township about six miles square, and in 1830 con- tained 3,G00 inhabitants. Of these probably four fifths hve near the centre, constituting the village ; the re- mainder reside in dififerant and distant parts of the town, in small settlements. A Congregational Church was or- 256 ACCOUNT OP REVIVAL. H i I' ganized hero in 1661, and till 1824 it continued the only church in the town, the people all worshipping in one meeting-house. Its second and third ministers were Solomon Stoddard and Jonathan Edwards, the former for fjfty-seven, the latter for twenty-three years. About ten years ago a small Unitarian society was formed, who erected for themselves a house of worship. Since, an Episcopal and a Baptist meeting-house have been erect- ed, but very few of those denominations are resident here. Probably four fifths of the whole population remain or- thodox Congregctionalists. " The church, since its organization, has been visited, in not less than \wenty instances, with the special effu- eions of the Spirit oi Cod. Of tho^'o, five occurred under the ministry of Stoddard, and two very remarkable ones under that of Edwards, of which he published a detailed account. Much, doubtless, of the prosperity of this church, even till now, is, under God, to be attributed to the teaching, example, and prayers of that distinguished j man. He was dismissed in 1750, and from that time revivals have occurred, at intervals of from three to ten years. Those in 1819, 1826, and 1831, were especially powerful, and the results were the accession of mere than 500 members to the church. "A very large meeting-house was erected in 1812, but two years since it became evident that the congrega- tion was too numerous for convenicice, and for the labour of one pastor. In consequence, a voluntary colony was formed to constitute another church, which, in memory l of Edwards, was called the Edwards Church. It al | first contained about 100 members, and in January, 1833, the Rev. John Todd was installed its pastor. A I place of worship was built the same year, and dedicated December the 25th. In June, 1833, the Rev. Joseph Penny was installed over the First (old) Church, which had been more than a year without a minister. " At the close of the year the state of religion was low, I religious meetings were thinly attended, and great apathy preva,jled. The week after the dedication of the Ed- I ' I * ACCOUNT OP REVIVAL. 257 ontinued the only rshipping in one ministers were rards, the former Be years. About was formed, who rship. Since, an have been erect- are resident here, ilation remain or- has been visited, li the special effu- ive occurred under f remarkable ones iblished a detailed prosperity of this to be attributed to that distinguished nd from that time from three to ten 1, were especially 38sion of mc re than erected in 1812, that the congrega- , and for the labour untary colony was which, in memory Is Church. It at and in January, led its pastor. A ^ear, and dedicated , the Rev. Joseph )ld) Church, which | minister. »f religion was low, I d, and great apathy ication of the Ed- wards Church, a committee was appointed by its pastor and brethren, to go, two and two, and visit all the mem- bers of that church, to excite them to activity in their Master's service, and to fervent prayer for his presence and blessing. The effects were ajyarently good, con- siderable feeling was discovered or elicited, and a desire for a revival produced. The first Monday of January, by recommendation of the General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church, was extensively observed in this country as a day of fasting and prayer, for the conversion of the world. It was thought best here, that the exer- cises during the day should have special reference to the condition of these churches and this community. Ac- cordingly prayer-meetings were held in the different dis- tricts of the town in the morning, and in the afternoon a public meeting was attended, at which the pastors made a full and particular exhibition of the proofs of a cold and dead statf of religion here, and urged on the churches the importance of awaking from their lethargy, and en- gaging in united and earnest prayers and exertions for the prosperity of our Zion. The meeting was fully at- tended, and solemn, as was the monthly concert in the evening. " It soon became evident that a decided impression was made on that day. Religious meetings were fuller, prayer was more fervent, religion became a subject of more conversation, and a general desire for a revival seemed to pervade the churches. The interest in- creased; and the last week in January, the pastors thought it advisable to appoint special meetings, in ref- erence to the peculiar circumstances of the people. Daily morning meetings for prayer, in private houses, in different parts of the town, were now commenced ; and a public service was appointed for each evening in the week. The morning meetings were conducted by lay- men : some of the evenings were occupied by the pas- tors, in endeavouring to arouse the churches, to make them feel their responsibility, and engage actively in stirring up each other, and in conversing freely with the 22* 258 ACCOUNT OP REVIVAL. i. ■■ : Impenitent — duties which had been greatly neglected. On other evenings, the churches met for united prayer ; while non-professors were invited to assemble in another place, and wore solemnly urged to attend to the concerns of their souls. These meetings were well attended, and deep impressions were made on some minds. At the close of the week an inquiry-meeting was held, at which a considerable number were present. *' The next Sabbath, the two churches celebrated the Lord's Supper together ; and it was a solemn and inter- esting occasion. During the week, similar services to those already mentioned were held. Towards its close, it became evident that increased effort was demanded, and that a crisis was near — the standard of the Lord would go forward or backward, according to the faith and zeal of those who bore it. The church had not yet, as a lohole, come up to the work ; nor had the con- victions of the unconverted, in many instances, resulted in submission of the heart to God. On Saturday, a select meeting of brethren was held, to confer with the pastors ; and the result was a determination that breth- ren, in equal numbers from each church, should, the en- suing week, visit, two and two, every family belonging to the two congregations, to press on professors of religion their obligations, and the importance of consistent and decided action, and to pray with ihem in behalf of the unconverted members of their families, and also to con- verse fully with the impenitent, and beseech them now to be reconciled to God. The visiters were animated, the visits were thorough and solemn, and the results happy. This week, in addition to the (now) usual morning and evening meetings, there was preaching every afternoon. The meetings were thronged — a gen- eral solemnity pervaded the people, and the inquiry-meet- ings brought together a large number, anxiously asking what they should do to be saved. Instances of hopeful conversion began now to occur, and religion to be regarded as * the one thing needful.' ^'Yet there was no visible excitement either in the ACCOUNT UF REVIVAL. 259 eatly neglected, r united prayer ; euible in anotlier to tlie concerns ell attended, and minds. At the as held, at which 38 celebrated the lolemn and inter- nilar services to bwards its close, t was demanded, lard of the Lord ding to the faith church had not nor had the con- istances, resulted On Saturday, a to confer with the lation that breth- h, should, the en- mihj belonging to 3ssors of religion of consistent and in behalf of the , and also to con- seech them now were animated, and the results the (now) usual e was preaching thronged — a gen- the inquiry-meet- anxiously asking itances of hopeful religion to be lent either in the meetings or in the town. A passer-by would have noticed nothing pnculiar in the aspect of things abroad ; and the meetings were distinguished only by numbers, profound attention, and the head bowed down, indicating unwonted emotion. Tiie next week the morning and evening meetings were continued, and, in the afternoon, social meetings were held by the visiters ni their several districts, for conversation and prayer. It was now easy to converse freely on the subject of religion, with all classes of persons : the conscience was tender, and the impenitent, generally, seemed to ex[>ect and to desire to be addressed. The inquiry-meetings were thronged : from 130 to 200 persons were present, and it was a scene of thrilling interest. All were invited to attend, who wished for personal conversation in relation to the state of their minds. During these meetings, the church- es were always assembled in another place, to pray for a blessing. So large a number came now, as in- quirers, that it became necessary for the pastors to call in several laymen to assist. " The meetings were conducted as follows : — One of the pastors commenced with a prayer and a short ad- dress ; after which, the pastors and brethren took dif- ferent parts of the room, and conversed with each in- dividual in a low voice, endeavouring to ascertain the precise state of mind, and to give such advice and direc- tions as the case required. Lists were taker* of the names and residence of each person present, that they might afterward be visited and conversed with at home. An hour was thus spent in conversation, and, in somn in- stances, afterward, those who had come to the decision to renounce their sins, receive Jesus as their Saviou*-, aval dedicate themselves to the service of God, were requeisted to rise ; and it is beheved that such a call was, to some, the means of conversion at the moment. Those not oc- cupied in conversation were advised to spend the time in silent meditation and prayer, giving their whole minds to the subject, and bringing them to an issue at once. The 260 ACCOUNT OF REVIVAL. 1 ! li I ! , i I, meetings were closed with an address and prayer, and seasonably disuussed. They were eminently blessed, and were, doubtless, the birthplace of many souls. •' The morning and evening meetings were continued for some weeks, and also those for inquiry. The num- ber who entertained the belief that thuy had been re- newed in heart became large ; and one or two evenings each week were occupied by the pastors, in giving in- structions, in pr< sence of the churchos, to such, in rela- tion to the duties and dangers of their new situation. " The ministerial labours of this season of revival were performed, with three or four exceptions, by the pastors themselves, without aid from abroad. All the meetings, save those on the Sabbath, were united meetings of the two churches ; and all that was done, was done with concert and harmony. The preaching was simple, but powerful ; calculated not so much to produce excitement of feeling, as deep and strong convictions of truth and duty. It exhibited the character of God as pure and holy ; the spirituality and extent of his law ; the guilt and depravity of man ; the ingratitude, odiousness, and misery of sin ; the freeness of the gospel offers of mercy ; the obligations to immediate repentance, and the un- reasonableness and danger of delay. It exposed the fallacious objections and cavils of sinners, stripped them of every vain plea, and brought them to decide for or against immediate submission to God. " Of the subjects of the work, a few were aged, sev- eral in middle life, but most were young. Some had been well instructed in the truth, and were moral and re- spectable ; others were ignorant and unprincipled ; some were Unitarians, who were induced, by curiosity, to at- tend the meetings ; a few were affected, and hopefully converted, without being present at any of the special services. A large number of the converts were members of the Sabbath school : some entire classes were taken ; one of them was a class of sixteen young men; the teacher was accustomed to visit each scholar, in the 1 i\ n§m ACCOUNT OP UEVIVAL. 201 9 and prayer, and ninently blessed, nany souls, s were continued uiry. The nuui- ley had been re- 5 or two evenings tors, in giving in- , to such, in rela- lew situation, an of revival were IS, by the pastors All the meetings, I meetings of the !, was done with I was simple, but oduce excitement tions of truth and jrod as pure and is law ; the guilt , odiousness, and 1 offers of mercy ; nee, and the un- it exposed the jrs, stripped them m to decide for d. r were aged, sev- ung. Some had ere moral and re- principled; some y curiosity, to at- ;ed, and hopefully ny of the special rts were members isses were taken; young men; the 1 scholar, in the course of the week, for personal convorsation and prayer. In this and other instances, the blessiDg seemed propor- tioned to the ein)rts and prayers of the teachers. " There were no individual instances of so marked a nature as to require specification. Though the peculiar exercises of the subjects of the work wore very various, yet they were usually silent and deep, raihev than obvious and obtrusive. In general, the mind soon came to a decision, and the results, for the most part, were very similar — a calm and peaceful joy in God, and a desire of dovotedness to his service. The work was very rapid in its progress. Nearly all the conversions took place within five or six weeks after the commencement of special means, and a large proportion in three weeks. An enrolment was made of tlie names of those who in- tended, at a future time, to join the church ; and the num- ber so enrolled, who wore considered subjects of the work, WP° about 250. Besides these were several be- longing to the neighbouring towns, and others, making the number of hopeful converts about 300. Of those en- rolled, 150 have since been admitted to these churches, on examination, furnishing to the pastor und church com- mittee credible evidence of piety, and publicly professing their faith in Christ. The remainder, many of whom are young, are considered as catechumens, to be watched over and instructed for future examination. None of these are known to have apostatized and renounced their hopes, and most of them are manifestly walking in newness of life. " The interest which was manifested in the winter, gradually diminished as the season opened ; or, at least, the press of business caused a decline in attendance on meetings ; and these were made less numerous, till they were reduced to the customary number. In one district, however, the morning prayer-meetings have been con- tinued to the present time. The good influences of the revival are, in many ways, still felt. There is a full at-' tendance upon the means of grace, a tenderness of con-i science in some, and a strong desire in not a few fo^r thtt 262 ACCOUNT C REVIVAL. renewal of the blessing. The general effect on the churches has been, to unite them and their pastors in zealous co-operation with each other ; to add to their strength as well as numbers ; and to draw closer the ties of Christian brotherhood, and increase the labours of Christian faithfulness. ^^ Remarks. — 1. This work was manifestly of God, and not of man. On no other ground can its commence- ment, its progress, or its results be accounted for. The philosophy which rejects the necessity and reality of the Divine agency in revivals, is utterly unable to explain their phenomena. It cannot tell nor see why Christian professors, who had long been slumbering in cold indif- ference to their duty, should suddenly and simultaneously awake, and arise, and call upon God ; or why the care- less, the profane, the errorist, and the skeptic, should now be brought to solemn reflection, diligent attendance upon the means of grace, anxious consideration, and thorough and permanent reformation of heart and life. " 2. It was, at the same time, the result of prayer and effort. The Divine blessing was, no doubt, fervently sought on the first Monday of January, from which time increased interest began to be manifest. The churches humbled themselves, they repented of their backslidings, and renewedly engaged to be wholly devoted to their Master's service. They went forth to his work. They exhibited, in some measure, the true spirit of the gospel ; especially did they cry mightily to God, for his Spirit te be poured out upon them, their famihes, and the commu- nity. The special means which were appointed, were, indeed, rather the consequence than the cause of awakened feeling ; yet they were necessary to its progress, and with- out them it would, without doubt, speedily have subsided. " 3. This revival illustrated the powerful influence of a church when awake, active, and faithful. Much was done by Christians to excite each other to duty ; much to induce the penitent to flee for refuge to the Savicjr, Christians were then seen and felt to be in earnest — to believe and to act on what they professed — to relax their :> I m [i. ACCOUNT OP REVIVAL. 263 ral effect on the 1 their pastors in ; to add to their aw closer the ties B the labours of inifestly of God, an its commence- 3unted for. The and reality of the inable to explain ee why Christian ing in cold indif- id simultaneously )r why the caie- eptic, should now attendance upon on, and thorough , Hie. ult of prayer and doubt, fervently from which time The churches leir backslidings, devoted to their lis work. They rit of the gospel ; for his Spirit te and the comrou- appointed, were, luse of awakened ogress, and with- y have subsided, rful influence of ful. Much was r to duty ; much to the Saviour, e in earnest — to 1 — to relax their hold on earthly pursuits and pleasures, and to seek first and chiefly to do their duty to God, and to their dying fellow-men. The result was, a general solemnity — a conviction, even among the most thoughtless, that God was here, that religion is a reality, and that the only true wisdom is to give it immediate and earnest attention. The minds of all were open to personal exhortation and reproof, and conversation and personal influence were in- strumental of the happiest consequences. " 4. In this work was seen the immense value of re- ligious instruction. Those who were most interested, and who were soonest brought to repentance and submis- sion, were, in general, those who had been thoroughly taught the truths of the Bible, who knew their duty and obligation, and who, when the Spirit touched their hearts, had no shield of error or ignorance, no cavils or objec- tions to interpose, to blunt the edge of conviction. They saw the claims of conscience and of God, and felt them to be irresistible. Such a revival is eminently the time, when the seeds of truth sown in the youthful mind spring up and bring forth fruit. In one of the congrega- tions of one hundred hopeful converts, seventy were members of the Sabbath school. "5. In this work was eminently illustrated the practi- cal importance of pressing upon sinners their obligations to immediate repentance. The impenitent we_ called on, without a moment's delay, to cease their rebellion against the authority of God, and accept of proffered mercy ; they were told that to delai/ was to refuse ; that nothing effect- ual was or could be done till the heart was yielded up to God ; and that this work demands no length of time, no series of means, no protracted efforts, but might boj ought to be, must be, done noio ; that there is no other accepted time but the present moment ; and that God now commanded them to repent. Such appeals were not in vain ; and in many instances, during the sermon or the address, it is believed, the heart surrendered itself to the Saviour. No other mode of dealing with men can reach their case, or serve but as an opiate to their conscience* in regard to present duty." — •••"'■»^— "' — 264 ACCOUNT OF SUNDAY SCHOOLS. Account of the Sunday Schools. The school in the first parish has about sixty teachers^ and 500 scholars. That in the Edwards Church has thirty teachers, and 200 scholars. The teachers are in general intelligent, and nearly all pious, and professors of religion. Some of them are middle-aged ; but most are men and women from twenty to thirty years of age. The scholars are from every class of families, including the most refined and respectable. About three fifths of them are children under fifteen years of age ; of the re- mainder, some are adults, from twenty-five to sixty ; but the majority, youths of both sexes. The schools are held one hour each Sabbath, after the morning or after- noon service ; they are opened with prayer. All the classes study the same lesson, which is a passage of the Bible, in course ; a book of questions adapted to it is Used ; and the pupils are expected to commit the passage to memory, and be able to answer all the questions. The teachers meet, usually on Saturday evening, to dis- cuss and prepare the lesson. One of their number, or the pastor, presides, and the meetlags are opened and closed with prayer. These meetings are regarded as highly interesting and useful. Prayer-meetings have at times been held by the teachers on Sabbath morning, with particular reference to the duties of the day, and the results have been very happy. The teachers are expected not only to explain and enforce the lesson, but to use every proper means to promote the eternal welfare of their pupils. The great and ultimate object which they have in view is their conversion and salvation; and, in dependance on God, they labour and pray for this blessing. They endeavour, by exhortation and influence, to persuade them, without delay, to devote themselves to the service of Jesus Christ. There are large libraries in each school, books from which are given out every Sabbath, to be retained not exceeding a fortniglit. Care is taken to admit no works into the library without careful examination of their char- acter. They are numbered and charged to each scholai' when received. OLS. AMHERST. 265 oh. it sixty teachersj rds Church has teachers are in , and professors -aged ; but most ty years of age. miUes, including at three fifths of age ; of the re- ive to sixty ; but The schools are lorning or after- prayer. All the a passage of the adapted to it is immit the passage ill the questions. y evening, to dis- their number, or are opened and are regarded as meetings have at Sabbath morning, s of the day, and he teachers are ce the lesson, but he eternal v^relfare tate object v^rhich n and salvation; : and pray for this ion and influence, ote themselves to chool, books from be retained not to admit no works Ltion of their char- d to each scholar All absences are noted, and the teachers or the visiters (a board appointed for the purpose in the first parish school) are expected, every fortnight, to visit the fami- lies whose members have been absent, to notify the pa- rents of the fact, and inquire the reason. The monthly concert for Sabbath schools is well ob- served, and is usually very interesting. Tliere is, in each school, a missionary association, comprising most of the scholars, who contribute monthly for some benev- olent religious charity. The funds of one c " these are now applied to establishing a school in Ceylon ; those of the other, in supporting a liome missionary at the West. They will probably raise, during the year, 200 or 300 dollars. Of course, all the labour connected with the Sabbalh school is gratuitous. It blesses those who teach not less than those who are taught. It is the hope of tho church ; it is the great preventive of moral deterioration in our land ; and the most powerful antidote to those evils which seem to threaten our popular government. LETTER XXIII. My DEAR Fbiend, On the Monday, September the 1st, T loft Northampton to proceed on my way to Meredith. I need not say that I had much regret on leaving ; but it was quaUfied con- siderably by the hope that I should meet my brethren again at Hartford. We passed through Amherst ; and I may as well re- mark, that during my stay at Northampton I visited that place a r f^cond time, and Dr. Humphrey, with Mr Adams, the pastor of the church, were so obliging as to come over and spend a morning with me at Dr. Penny's. This college is excellently situated on elevated ground, and in Vol. I.— M 33 866 ACCOUNT OF REVIVAL. ■ i'-' a country at once open, varied, and grand. It itself has a good and handsome appearance, but is not on so large a scale as the number of students would suggest, for they board in diflerent families in the village. Professor Hitchcock, known advantageously to the public by his productions on geology, attended me over the premises. The accommodations for the general uses are decidedly good. There is a library of about 7,000 volumes ; and there is an apparatus which cost .'>,000 dollars, a recent purchase at Pans. It is a young institution ; but it has grown rapidly, and it has done so without impairing its vigour. It is, however, chiefly remarkable for several revivals which have occurred in it in succession. Certainly revi- vals in this connexion are of the most interesting charac- ter. Dr. Humphrey was kindly at great pains to satisfy my inquiries on the subject. Since then I have seen the account drawn up by Mr. Abbott ; and it is so im- portant, and I can so fully confirm it by the information I received, that I do not hesitate to make the following extracts : — ' I "In 1827, the state of religion was very low in this college. Faithful religious instruction was given on the Sabbath, at the chapel where the students were required to attend, and we were accustomed to liold alsc a meet- ing for familiar religious instruction one evening during the week. At this meeting, however, scarcely any were present ; a small portion of the actual members of the church were accustomed to attend, but never any one else. If a single individual, not professedly a Christian, had come in for a single evening, it would have been noticed as a rare occurrence, and talked of by the offi- cers as something unexpected and extraordinary. Our hearts ached, and our spirits sunk within us, to witness the coldness and hardness of heart towards ciod a^^d duty which reigned among so large a ^.un ber of our pupils. Every private eflfort which we could make with individu- als entirely failed, and we could see, too, that those who "1;' ACCOUNT OF REVIVAL. 267 [. It itself has not on so large id s Aggest, for Lge. Professor ? public by his ir the premises. 9 are decidedly ) volumes ; and lollars, a recent tion ; but it has it impairing its several revivals Certainly revi- eresting cliarac- pains to satisfy len I have seen and it is so im- the information ke the following very low in this as given on the ts were required old alsc a meet- evening during arcely any were members of the never auny one 3dly a Christian, ould have been of by the offi- aofdinary. Our n us, to Witness is God HAd duty of our pupils, e with individu- , thut those who professed to love the Saviour were rapidly losing their interest in his cause, and becoming engrossed in htevary ambition and college rivalry, dishonouring God's cause, and gradually removing every obstacle to the universal prevalence of vice and sin. " There w^^' then in college a young man who had been among the foremost in his opposition to religion. His taLnts and his address gave him a great deal of per- sonal influence, which was of such a character as to be a constant source of solicitude to the government. He was repeatedly involved in difficulties with the officers on accou"! of his transgrc ssions of the college laws, and so well known were liis feelings on the subject, that when at a government meeting, during the progress of the revi- val, we were told with astonishment, by the President, that this young man was suffering great distress on ac- count of his sins, it was supposed by one of the officers that it must be all a pretence, feigned to deceive the President, and make sport for his companions. The Pres- ident did not reply to the suggestion, but went to visit him ; and when I next saw him, he said, ' There's no pretence there. If the Spirit of God is not at work upon his heart, I know nothing about the agency of the Spirit.' " That young man is now the pastor of a church, active and useful, and, when commencing this narrative, I wrote to him to send me such reminiscences of this scene as might remain upon his mind. He writes me thus : — " ' Very dear Sir, " ' My obligations to you as a friend and instructer, make me anxious to fulfil my promise, of drawing up a sketch of the revival at Amherst College during the last two or three weeks of April, 1827. I have been delayed, partly by sickness and the unusual pressure of duties here, partly by the difficulty of settling in my mind a clear idea of what you wish, and partly by the impos- sibdity of reviving the memory of facts and impressions ia tiie exact order of their occurrence. If this cam» M2 268 ACCOUNT OF REVIVAL. munication should reach you too late to answer your purpose, it will at least prove my wish to yield you such assistance as I may. " ' For a considerable time previous, the subject of religion in college had fallen into great neglect ; even the outward forms were very faintly observed. During nearly two years, in which I hc:d been connected with the college, I had never heard tl.3 subject mentioned among the students, except as matter of reproach and ridicule. At least, this is true, SC' far as my intercourse with the students was concerned. Those who professed piety, either through timidity or unr^oncerp, seemed to let the subject rest, and were chiefly devoted tc indolence or literary ambition. But while religion was shamed and fugitive, irrehgion was bold and free. A majority of the students; were avowedly destitute of piety ; and of these a large portion were open or secret infidels ; and many went to every length they could reach, of levity, pro- faneness, and dissipation. So many animosities and ir- regularities prevailed, as to endanger the general reputa- tion of the seminary. " ' Some of the students who were differently situated from myself, may perhaps have noticed preparatory movements on the common mass of mind, indicating an under-current of feeling, gradually gaining strength, and preparing the community for the results which were to follow. But I saw none ; and none such could have been generally apparent. Upon myself, the change opened with as much suddenness as power. " ' The first circumstance which attracted my atten- tion was a sermon from the President on the Sabbath. I do not know what the text and subject were, for, ac- cording to a wicivod habit, I had been asleep till near its close. I seemed to be awakened by a silence which pervaded the room ; a deep, solemn attention, which seems to spread over an assembly when all are com- pletely engrossed in some absorbing theme. I looked around, astonished, and the feeling of profound attention geemed to settle on myself. I looked towards the Presi- ACCOUNT OF REVIVAL. 269 to answer your yield you such 1, the subject of at neglect ; even iserved. During 1 connected with abject mentioned of reproach and IS my intercourse se who professed icerp, seemed to oted tc indolence I was shamed and A majority of the 'ty ; and of these fidels; and many h, of levity, pro- nimosities and ir- le general reputa- ifFerently situated iced preparatory nd, indicating an ling strength, and ts which were to such could have self, the change iwer. tracted my atten- on the Sabbath. ect were, for, ac- sleep till near its a silence which attention, which len all are com- heme. I looked rofcund attention owards the Presi- dent, and saw him calm and collected, but evidently most deeply interested in what he was saying, — his whole soul engaged, and his countenance beaming with an ex- pression of eager earnestness, which lighted up all his features, and gave to his language unusual energy and power. " ' What could this mean ? I had never seen a speaker and his audience so engaged. He was making a most earnest appeal to prevent those who were destitute of religion themselves, from doing any thing to obstruct the progress of the revival which he hoped was approach- ing ; or of doing any thing to prevent the salvation of others, even if they did not desire salvation for them- selves. He besought them, by all the interests of im- mortality, and for the sake of themselves, and of their companions, to desist from hostilities against the work of God. " ' The discourse closed, and we dispersed. But many of us carried away the arrow in our hearts. The gayest and the hardiest trembled at the manifest approach of a sublime and unwonted influence. Among some who might have been expected to raise the front of oppo- sition, I resolved not to do it, but to let it take its course, keeping away from its influence, without doing any thing to oppose It ; but neutrality was impossible. " ' It was probably with an intention somewhat similar to that which prompted the meetmgs which the irreli- gious students held by themselves the year before., that the following plan was formed. A student, who was temporarily my ruom-mate, importuned me to invite one of the tutors to conduct a religious meeting in my room. I told him I would, if he would obtain the promise of certain individuals, ten in number, whom I named, that they would attend. I selected such individuals as I was confident would not consent to be present. In a short time, he surprised me with the information that he had seen them all, and that they had consented to the pro- posal. Of course, I was obhged, though reluctantly, to request the tutor to hold such a meeting. Most of us 23* 270 ACCOUNT OF REVIVAL. repaired to the place at the appointed time, with feelings of levity or of bitter hostility to religion. My room- mate had waggishly placed a Hebrew Uible on the stand. Whether this circumstance, or the character of his au- ditory, suggested the subject which the tutor chose, I know not ; but, after opening the meeting with prayer. he entered into a defence of the Divine authority of the holy Scriptures, from external and internal evidence, which he maintained in the most convincing manner ; and then, on the strength of this authority, he urged its promises and denunciations upon us as sinners. The eflect was very powerful. Several retired deeply im- pressed, and all were made more serious, and better pre- pared to be influenced by the truth. So that this affair " fell out rather to the furtherance of the gospel." " ' My own interest in the subject rapidly increased, and one day, while secluded in my apartment, and over- whelmed with conflicting emotions of pride and despair, I was surprised by a visit from the President. He in- formed me that he had come with the hope of dissua- ding me from doing any thing to hinder the progress of the revival. After intimating that he need feel no apprehen- sions on that point, I confessed to him, with difficulty, the agitation of my thoughts. Apparently much affected, he only said, " Ah, I was afraid you would never have such feelings." After remaining silent a few minutes, he engaged in prayer, and retired, advising me to attend a certain meeting of my class-mates for prayer. I felt very much hke the Syrian general, when offended by the supposed neglect of the prophet ; for I thought he would have seized the opportunity to do some great thing for the relief of my labouring mind. " * With feelings still more excited, I repaired to one of my class-mates, who had the reputation of being one of the most consistent Christians among us. I asked him, with tears, to tell me what I should do to be saved. He, too, betrayed his wonder, and only resorted to prayer with me, in which he could do little but say, " Jesus, thou Son of David, have mercy on us.'''' Long after- time, with feelings igion. My room- iible on the stand. Kiracter of his au- hc tutor chose, I eting with prayer, ic authority of the internal evidence, nvincing manner ; lority, he urged its as sinners. The retired deeply im- as, and better pre- So that this affair he gospel." rapidly increased, utment, and over- pride and despair, resident. He in- J hope of dissua- the progress of the feel no apprehen- m, with difficulty, itly much affected, I'ould never have It a few minutes, sing me to attend or prayer. I felt n offended by the thought he would 3 great thing for I repaired to one tion of being one ng us. I asked i do to be saved, esorted to prayer 'ut say, "Jesus, f." Long after- ACCOUNT OF REVIVAL. 271 ward I learned that when he left me, to join a circle as- sembled that evening for prayer, he told them that my inquiry for the way of salvation made him feel as if he needed to learn it himself.' " I have thus followed out this particular case, in order to give to my readers, by means of a minute ex- amination of one specimen, a clear idea of the nature of the changes which were effected. There were, how- ever, many other cases, as marked and striking as this ; so that any person who was a member of college at tha» time might be in doubt, after reading the preceding description, which of half a dozen decided enemies of religion, who were at this time changed, was the one referred to. In fact, the feeling went through the college — it took the whole. Nothmg like opposition to it was known, except that, perhaps, in a very few cases, individuals made efforts to shield themselves from its influence ; and one or two did this successfully, by keeping themselves for many days under the influ- ence of ardent spirit ! ^ v iih a few exceptions of this kind, the unwonted and mysterious influence was welcomed by all. It was not among Christians a feel- ing of terror, of sadness, and melancholy, but of de- light. Their countenances were not gloomy and morose, as many persons suppose is the case at such a time, but they beamed with an expression of enjoyment, which seemed to be produced by the all-pervading sense of the immediate presence of God. I have seen, in other cases, efforts to appear solemn — the affected gravity of counte- nance and seriousness of tone — but there was nothing of that here. Hearts were all full to overflowing, and it was with a mysterious mingling of peace and joy — an emotion of deep overwhelming gladness in the soul, ihough of a character so peculiar that it expressed itself in the countenance by mingled smiles and tears. " The ordinary exercises of college were not inter- rupted. The President held two or three religious meetings during the week, but recitations went on un- changed, and I well recollect the appearance of my mathematical classes. The students would walk silently : 272 ACCOUNT OP REVIVAL. n :ii and slowly from their rooms, ami assemble at the ap- pointed place. It was plain (h,(< the hearts of many of them were full of such emoLioiJS as I have describad. Others, who were still unrenewed, would sit with do^vn- cast eyes, and when it came to their turn to be questian- ed, would make an effort to control their feelings, and finding that they could not recite, would ask me to excuse them. Others, known heretofore as enemies of God ind religion, sat still, their heads reclined upon the .seats before them, with their hearts overwhelmed with remorse and sorrow, and eyes filled with tears. I could not ask them a question. One morning, I recollect, so strong and so universal were these feelings, that we could not go on. The room was silent as death. Every eye was down ; I called upon one after another, but in viiin ; and we together prayed God to come and be with us, and bless us, and to save us and our class-mates from sin and suffering, and then silently went to our rooms. " The buildings were as still this week ar if they had been depopulated. The students loved to be alons. They walked about silently. They said little when they met, as men always do when their hearts are full. Late in the evening, they would collect in little circh s in one another's rooms, to spend a few moments in prayer. I was often invited to these meetings ; and it was dehght- ful to see the little as^.embly coming into the room at the appointed time, each bringing his own chair, and gather- ing around the bright burning fire, with the armed chair placed in one corner for their instructer, and the two oc- cupants of the room together upon the other side. They who were present at these meetings will not soon forget the enjoyment with which their hearts were filled, as they here bowed in supplication before God. "On Tuesday and Thursday evenings we assembled in the largest lecture-room, for more public wornhip. It was the same room where, a few weeks before, on the same occasions, ^ ^e could see only here ; nd there one, among the vaca' .^ gloomy seats. Now Low changed ! At the suirmions of the evening bell, group after group ^ \ ACroUNT OP REVIVAL. 273 ascended the stairs, and crowdejd tlie benrlies. It was the rheloricul Iccture-rooni, and was arranged with rows t)!' seats on the three sides, and a tal)le for the professor on a small platform on the fourth. The seats were soon full, and settees were brought in to fill the area left in tlie centre. The President was seated at the table ; on nther side of him the professors ; an'' beyond them, iuid all around, the room was erowfli \ young men, hungering and thirsting after the ' " I recollect particularly one; oi ,ngs. It was one of the Rarli.-st after the revi. .ii. ;nced,and l)i;fore us, crowding the settees in the open area, were gathered all the wild, irreligious, vicious, and abandoned young men which the institution contained. There they were, the whole of them ; all enmity gone, opposition silenced, and pride subdued ; and they sat in silence, gazing at the President, and drinking in all his words, as he pressed upon th'?m tlioir sins, and urged them to throw down the weapoiis of their rebellion, and come and submit themselves to God. The text for the even- uig, if I recollect right, was this — ' Notwithstanding, be ye sure of this, the kingdom of God has come nigh unto you.' Every person in the room felt that it was nigh. He spol odies of nature, they knew not why. There are still on some rocks, which have suffered least by the attrition of the waters and of time, a few efforts to represent the human countenance, which discover more skill than we usually ascribe to them. Oxford Bridge received us before nightfall. The inn at which I rested till morning is among the best I have seen for cleanliness and comfort. The people occupying it were decidedly religious, and I like to connect the pro- prieties of life with true religion. At four o'clock I was again in the stage. I had been ready some time ; for it was now behind the hour named ; but it was on a crossroad, and not exposed to competi- tion. A very heavy fog lay on the ground ; and being alone in the coach, I had difficulty in keeping warm. The sun afterward broke out, and the day became very hot. I found that the stage would only pass within ten miles of Meredith, so that I was obhged to leave it, and seek some other mode of transfer. 1 engaged a wagon and its owner to take me ; and after dining, and waiting the pleasure, or leisure, of the party, we moved on our way. The dearborn in which I was conveyed was no place for enjoyment, for the seat was so small that we were obliged to sit on each other in turn, and the road was so rugged as to threaten to jerk us out together ; yet I did much enjoy the ride. We wound our way through granite hills and rocks, sprinkled with cedar and fir, and disclosing to you, in succession and at intervals, the animated river, the beautiful bay, and the expandf d lake, dotted with islets. As we approached nearer to the lake, there aro^e insensibly on its margin, and among the trees, the village to which I was bound. It looked ex- ceedingly lovely and quiet in the summer lights of even- ing. It seemed a delightful retirement for an association of ministers ; and reminded me forcibly and pleasantly of Him who, with his disciples, often retreated for converse and prayer to the margin of Gennesaret. As I arrived, many persons who had to go to a dis- tance were leaving. Still, however, the evening, Qt S76 MEREDITH. I ■iu candlelight services were to come. But as some of the services had passed, and as I have not had an opportunity of reporting the order of such a meeting as the present, it may be desirable to look back to the commencement. This was an Association of the brethren and churches of New-Hampshire. It assembles at different places ; and this was the first occasion of its being convened here. It had been feared that the interest was too weak to afford the needful accommodation ; but these associa- tions, as they pass from place to place, are reputed to carry a beneficial influence with them ; and there was a strong desire, on the part of the people and pastor, that It should be held at Meredith, as a means of advancing the interests of religion. They met in a noble spirit the claims made on their hospitality. Every house was open, and every house was full. Two or three families had twelve, eighteen, and twenty guests. The inns also were full. I found a room at the inn at which I alighted just vacated ; and thinking it my first and last chance for a separate accommodation, I engaged it ; but I was not allowed to answer any charge on its account. Let me also remark, in passing, that the general cir- cumstances of this place are interesting. The church here was built by common subscription, and was to be a free church ; that is, op" equally to the use of all, whatever their religious pe, ion. As the persons who had settled here were mainiy Jniversalists, it was practi- cally theirs. Some efforts were made by the Home Missionary Soci*?ty in its favour, and an interest was ex- cited on the side of orthodox opinion and true religion. The Congregationalists have, by their greater numbers and influence, secured it to themselves, and have an ex- cellent pastor in Mr. Young. The church under his charge is only ten years old ; it was at first organized with nine members ; and it has now 100, with an adult attendance of 400 ; and the people are full of youthful zeal and activity. There are, besides, 100 children in the Sabbath school. The Universalists reckon still about 300, and meet in slack numbers at the court-house< The total population is not above 1,000< 11. • I ASSOCIATION. 277 But as some of the )t had an opportunity iting as the present, \e commencement, ethren and churches at different places ; its being convened ;erest was too weak ; but these associa- ace, are reputed to 1 ; and there was a pie and pastor, that leans of advancing in a noble spirit the ery house was open, three families had s. The inns also at which I alighted rst and last chance aged it ; but I was its account, at the general cir- ting. The church on, and was to be to the use of all, A.S the persons who ists, it was practi- ade by the Home an interest was ex- and true religion, greater numbers 1, and have an ex- church under his at first organized 00, with an adult e full of youthful 100 children in i reckon still about court-house^ The The ministers and members of the Association began to arrive on the Monday evening, and held a concert of prayer. The regular sittings were to commence the following morning, and to last for three days. Early prayer-meetings were to be held on each morning at half f past five. On Tuesday, at eight o'clock, the business began. A Moderator was chosen ; and sundry committees were ap- pointed to dispose of business that might anse. At eleven, a sermon was preached. Two other public meetings were held, and these, with the duties of the committees, occupied the rest of the day. On the Wednesday morning they met again at eight o'clock for business ; at eleven, the claims of the Educa- tion Society, and at three, those of the Bible Society, were pleaded by suitable statements and speeches. In the evening, an address was made in favour of the Sun- day School Union and the Peace Society, by their agents respectively. I was present at these latter services ; and though on interesting subjects, they were not very engaging. On Thursday, we met at eight o'clock for business again. Some minor questions were disposed of. A re- port was brought up on the state of religion, wliich wore an encouraging aspect, while it implored more decided help. Resolutions were passed in favour of the Peace Society, and condemnatory of slavery. At ten, the meeting in favour of the Home Missionary Society was held. Di. Peters made a short statement, and called on me, as having arrived from the West, to support him. I was constrained to obey the call, and to lead the meeting in prayer. A subscription, in a liberal spirit, was then begun in favour of the Society. Many who subscribed in their own name, now did so in the name of their children; and Mr. Matheson was requested to offer prayer for them. The meeting was longer than usual, but none were weary of it. It was of a highly exhilara^- ting and pious character; and certainly served the in- terests of an admirable Society. •24 \^\ ; ' 278 IMPRESSIONS. I At two o'clocli, Dr. Cogswell deliverec! an address in behalf of the Missionary Society ; and at three, Mr. Barn- ham preached, by previous appointment, before the Aux- iliary of the Home Mission Society. At the close of these exercises, the sacrament of the Lord's Supper was administered. I was called upon, supported by Dr. Tucker and Mr. Matheson, to preside, and there was no refusal admitted. The area and aisles were full of de- vout communicants ; and nearly one hundred and fifty pastors were present. It was a delightfully solemn ex- ercise ; and would have been more so to me had my en- gagements been less responsible. The whole was to close by a sermon in the evening, and I was urged to preach. But I was already much exhausted, and entreated that the service might rest with Dr. Tucker. Many persons regarded the sacramental engagement as the last best thing, and departed ; and a thunder-storm came on with rain, so that the evening at- tendance was not large. The sermon was excellent and impressive ; truly orthodox and strictly practical. It was an excellent close. The Governor of the State and Judge Darling attended most of the services. From this summary of particulars, it may be in- ferr'>i that this meeting of the Association was highly interesting and profitable, especially as it approached the termination. Those who were speaking of it, in com- parison with similar meetings of the same body, expressed themselves with emphatic pleasure. And this evidence was by no means limited to the effect of one or two feli- citous meetings ; it was to be found in the temper of the people. They were certainly much under the influ- ence of pious sentiment. It was delightful to observe that the early prayer-meetings were attended with uni- form avidity ; from 300 to 500 persons being present on those exercises. It was equally delightful to find that, for the time, the very inn in which I tarried was convert- ed into a sanctuary ; and all its chambers were made in succession to echo with the voice of solitary or social prayer and praise. At night I sunk to rest, and in the IMPRESSIONS. 279 i I morning I awoke, with the strains of supplication on my ear. The pastors diacovered a large measure of piety and charity ; and they were, without doubt, strengthened in its expression by the example of the father of the As- sociation, Dr. Church. Indeed, when I look back, and consider what was the spirit of the people, and what the occasions for its exer- cise, I rather wonder that the results were not greater than they were. And I deliberately think, that they would have been of a ntost remarkable character had there been less to do, and had one definite object been before the people. But, instead of this, the objects claim- ing attention in the short space of time were truly per- plexing for nun.ber. Recently, all the great societies have had a natural desire to obtain notice at these con- vocations of the churches. They, therefore, one after another, have been grafted on to these meetings ; while they have to dispose of the interests and business of the Association. What is local and familiar is sacrificed to what is general and vast ; but neither the home nor the foreign interests were administered so efficiently. In this instance, though the business of the Association was not above an average, it could not be justly regarded ; and so many public societies sought to be heard, that they were in danger of being heard and forgotten. The direct effect on the people, which is the point to which I would particularly allude, was certainly unfa- vourable. The rapidity with which their attention was called from object to object, might afford passing amuse> ment, but it neutralized impression. I never felt myself much more in a whirl of business and of bustle than in this retired village ; and ybu well know how very con- trary even religious bustle is to religious influence. This people show, by their protracted meetings, that they can appreciate the importance of keeping one only object be- fore the attention for a considerable time, and this princi- ple must be applied to correct the evils which a happy excess of business has brought upon the Associations. Because these variousi and bu^tUng claims had allowed 280 EXCURSION. !■ in fli I'iif 1 , 1 1 .1 : one such little opportunity of mingling in quiet with the brethren, I requested that we might meet to breakfast, and hold a conference on the Friday morning. This was very cheerfully acceded to ; and about twenty of the pas- tors gave us the meeting. I need only remark here, that this conference was affectionate, candid, and pleasant in the highest degree ; and to us, as a delegation, certainly the most important. We closed it in prayer, and parted with many, many fraternal greetings. We were not to leave till noon by the stage, and Dr. Crosby, whose kindness to us has been cordial and un- ceasing, proposed an excursion to the hills. This was most agreeable to me, as I could not endure to quit so enchanting a spot without some acquaintance with it. Time was precious, and away we went. But it would require sheets to report to you what we saw. Let me hasten over it. Suppose yourself to have made, gradu- ally, an ascent of some thousand or eleven hundred feet, and to have attained a standing on a bold eminence, com- manding all the objects beneath and around you ; and yet not so high as to destroy their importance. Now the finest objects in nature, and on their most magnificent scale, are before you. The hill on which you stand runs off in slopes, and is finely clothed. Behind that swell which rises at its foot, is almost hidden the little village of Meredith, chiefly detected by the gray smoke which comes curling up from the trees around it. There are the two beautiful bays which lie before it. And then, over the extensive foreground, are eight or nine lovely lakes, of various form and dimensions, separated and adorned by the pine-clad rocks and hills, which cast their dark shadows over their peaceful and lucid waters. And there, to the right, is the lake Winnipiseogee, the mother of tliese waters, spreading itself out in all its magnifi- cence ; and, large as it is, appearing the larger for being partly concealed by the bold projection of the hills. It is studded by innumerable islands, some of them show- ing only a rocky pinnacle, and many of them having a diameter of one or two miles. The eye can hardly ri&o LOWELL. 281 a; in quiet with the neet to breakfast, orning. This was twenty of the pas- r remark here, that id, and pleasant in legation, certainly prayer, and parted the stage, and Dr. in cordial and un- hills. This was 3ndure to quit so iiaintance with it. It. But it would ve saw. Let me lave made, gradu- Bven hundred feet, Id eminence, com- around you ; and rtance. Now the most magnificent which you stand led. Behind that hidden the little the gray smoke round it. There tre it. And then. It or nine lovely separated and , which cast their cid waters. And ogee, the mother n all its magnifi- larger for being of the hills. It e of them show- f them having a can haxdly riao from this scene ; but when it does, it finds every thing in perfect harmony. Here the lands run down in fine slopes, and shoot away into the vast distance, forming as noble a vista as can be seen. Everywhere else the land rises and falls most admirably ; gathering strength with the distance, valley after valley, and . hill after hill, till the hills resolve themselves into th6 mountains, and the gray mountains and fair blue sky perfect the wonderful picture. Conceive of all this, and much more than this, with all the improvements which sun and cloud, light and shadow, can give to it, and then say whether it is not won- derful ! But words are poor things here. It is the very finest thing I have seen in New-England, and I must not forget it. We were greatly urged to stay here over the Sabbath ; and it was with much regret that we yielded to a sense of duty, in parting so hastily with such a spot, and with such friends. LETTER XKIV. My dear Frienh, About one, on the 6th, we left, as intended, for Con- cord, on our way to Lowell ; the brethren. Bliss, East- man, Baird, and Peters, being cf our company. We ar- rived in pleasant time, and found others of our friends here. The Rev. Mr. Boutelle, the pastor of the principal church, would gladly have detained us over the Sabbath ; but we were obliged to deny ourselves. Religion has thriven in this place, and it would have been gratifying to have witnessed its effects. I made myself, in some de- gree, master of it by conversation, and this was the niost that was allowed by the pressure of other dalrhs. The next morning we proceeded vvith Dr. Peters. He was about to go to Lowell, to plead the home mission 24* ■f'' S82 COTTON FACTORY. N, ^^ ' ! ' 'i 1 t l! • cause, and I had determined to attend him. Mr. Ma- theson stopped for the Sabbath at Derry. On this busy hne we found some outside seats, and improved coaches ; and, after a pleasant ride by the Mammoth road, through a wild and interesting country, we arrived in time to take our seats at the la/ile tfhdte of a good and commodious inn. We sought the brethren in the afternoon, and were urged by the Rev. Mr. Twining to make his house our temporary home. President Day and Professor Silliman, both of New-Haven, and the brethren of the town, did us the favour of a call, and we made our arrangements for the ensuing Sabbath. Lowell is situated at the confluence of the Concord and Merrimack rivers. It is one of the largest manufac- turing towns in the whole Union, anvi supplies one of the most remarkable instances of rapidity in growth. Twenty years ago this spot was a wilderness. Then a small fac- tory was built, which cost only 3,000 dollars. There are now more than twenty large mills, five stories high, with 3,000 looms and 8,500 spindles, upwards of 5,000 oper- atives, and a capital exceeding six millions and a half of dollars. The total population is 13,000. The water- power is very fine, and skilfully applied by means of res- ervoirs and canals ; it is capable of working fifty more mills. The advantage to the comfort and appearance of the town in the possession of this power is very great, as it allows a vast business to go forward without the nui- sance of universal smoke. This class of objects is rare in this country, though common in ours, and I was inter- ested in a new course of observation. It might be expected in this case, as in every similar one, that many fruitful causes of evil would come into action ; but it was pleasing to find a corrective and antag- onist power brought universally and successfully to act against them. Especially th^re ifl*..one feature in the state of this community that js pecuti^ir and hazardous. There are not less than 4,000 young women attached to the mills, who have been drawn here by the hope of re- ward, abstracted from all the safeguards of their familiesi i COTTON FACTORY. 283 nd him. Mr. Ma- rry. On this busy improved coaches ; imoth road, through ived in time to take i and commodious ifternoon, and were lake his house our Professor Silhman, i of the town, did us ir arrangements for ice of the Concord le largest manufac- suppUes one of the in growth. Twenty Then a small fac- dollars. There are e stories high, with ards of 5,000 oper- ilions and a half of ,000. The water- id by means of res- working fifty more and appearance of ^er is very great, as rd without the nui- 3 of objects is rare :s, and I was inter- is in every similar would come into )rrective and antag- mccessfully to act )ne feature in the ir and hazardous, vomen attached to by the hope of re- Is of their families} I and transferred suddenly from the utmost retirement to promiscuous society. They are mostly tlie daughters of farmers, and have laudable intentions in coming. The family has every thing but ready money, and this is a method of getting it. Many of them are well educated ; they might teach at school ; but they prefer this employ, as it gives them better remuneration. Others thirst for education ; they come for six months, and then disap- pear ; and again they come, and again they disappear. In the one instance they are procuring the costs of edu- cation, and in the other education itself. They bring with them a sensf improvement are It lined with wood efore the smart and d where they still contrast. I visit-< very like our own ; ibsence of smoke, ours, from the ciiw instead of iron for re found here from oremen, are mostly his town, to deliver J kindly invited me 1 drawings. They them excjuisi^e, LECTURE. 287 tn the evening I met the Professor to tea, at Mr. lEdson's, an Episcopal clergyman, of liberal views and pious character. Here was the church and the parson- age all in English style. We had pleasant intercourse, and then adjourned to the lecture-room. Dr. Silliman was to deliver his first lecture this evening. The sub- ject was " Primitive Rocks." He has excellent quali- ties for a popular lecturer ; fluent, simple, animated, and gentlemanly. All could understand, and all were inter- ested. There were about 500 persons present. Ten lectures were to be given ; and the charge for the series Was one dollar and a half. On the following morning 1 took leave of the friends here, at eight o'clock, for Andover. Professor Silliman called, and obligingly gave me an introduction to his family at New-Haven, in case of his not having returned. An Englishman, also, foreman of the machine factory, who had heard me on the Sabbath, came to say farewell, and put thirteen dollars into my hand. He remark- ed, he had been putting it by for some good use, and he would like to have it given to a society in the old country. Nothing worthy of note occurred on the way, except that w6 were overtaken with one of the most sudden and Violent storms which I had witnessed. We had called to the coachman to stop, and look to the luggage, and get the curtains closed round us ; but he drove on. The driving rain fell in sheets, so that before I could get the curtains fastened on my side, I was wet through. My predicament had at least the charm of novelty : for it is no usual or easy thing to get completely wet within a stagecoach. What was quite as bad, my portmanteau and dressing-case were once more soaked through ; an evil which a minute's attention Would have prevented. The drivers generally take little cafe of the luggage. On many of the lines the proprietors give notice that they will not be responsible for it ; and this is equal to an advertisement to their men to neglect it, and to the robber to prowl for it. I' 288 ANDOVER. i > ; J: I ! S ' ! ^':1ii 1 1 :t ^ : 1 ' 1 ^ i: li'ikiii Happily, I was near to Andover when the storm came on, and on reaching the dwelhng of Dr. Woods, I at I once found the kindest reception, and the opportunity of relieving myself of wet garments. While I was in my I dressing-room, one of the most singular claps of thunder broke on us that I ever heard. The rain had ceased, but the heavens were still heavy. It was just over us. There was no rumbling or rolling either before or after | it ; it was just one clap, resembling, only so much more powerful, the discharge of a tremendous cannon. It shook the house and the ground ; and within half a mile of us, it struck a large tree adjoining a house, split it, and shattered all the windows of the dwelling. You cannot well conceive of a spot more eligible for its purposes than is that occupied by the Institutions of Andover. It is a fine piece of headland, embracing about 160 acres, and dwelling in hght and air. On I looking down its slopes, in one direction, you see the pretty village crouching among the trees, and showing here and there its white gables and turrets. And beyond it, and all around you, is spread a fine and extensive country, beautified by hills, rich with woodlands, and animated by cultivation. It is enclosed by the outline formed of the Temple Hills, the Blue Hills, and the Monadnoc, some of them standing away at a distance of forty and sixty miles. The whole of this elevated and commanding platform is in the possession of the trustees, and this allows them to keep it select. It is appropriated to its uses with much advantage. On the right hand side of the road, and receding from it, are the dwellings of the officers and professors, and the Mansion House, or Hotel. All these are detached ; of considerable size ; with double fronts, fore-courts, and gardens, and composing good elevations. On the left hand, and therefore in front of these dwellings, is an extensive opening of many acres, rising on the eye, laid down in grass and gravel walks, and planted with fine trees, and kept in a state of pres- ervation very uncommon here. At the head of this INSTITUTIONS . 289 verdant and shady area is placed the Theological InstitUr lion, composed of three parts ; a handsome chapel fiUing the centre, and two colleges becoming the wings. On the one side there is the Phillips Academy, and on the other the Classical School, and the dwelling of a pro- fessor ; the angles are all left open, and the eye takes in the distant landscape. The entire aspect of these ob- jects is very grateful to the eye ; and the finish and order of the estate, and its sensible adaptation to its proposed end, make it as grateful to the mind, and secure its approbation. The origin of this extensive foundation is remarkable, and perhaps I may not have a better occasion to refer to it. Dr. Spring, the father, I believe, of the present Dr. Spring, of New- York, was pastor of a church at New- buryport. Some of his people at that time were very prosperous in business. He was of a generous mind, and rejoiced in their prosperity ; and he was of a pious and lofty mind, and desired to stimulate them to propor- tionate exertion. There were two especially with whom he did not labour in vain, Messrs. Bartlett and Brown. Having prepared his way, he got a meeting with them, and applied to Mr. Woods, now Dr. Woods, of Andover, to attend it. They engaged in free conversation. It was admitted that something ought to be done ; they were ready to do something : what, among many claims, would it be best to do ? Dr. Spring inquired what they would like to do 1 Would they like an Academy ? It was much wanted, for the use of the ministry. They were quite willing. How should they begin ? He sug- gested, that they might make a commencement by secu- ring Mr. Woods, who, with the aid of a preceptor, might take six young men. "Well," said Mr. Brown, "I will give 10,000 dollars." — ^ Why," said Mr. bartlett, "did you not say 20,000, and I would too ?" Before they parted, Mr. Bartlett observed to Dr. Spring, " Let the work go on, and you may look to me." Dr. S. knew his man, and was satisfied and thankful. He went to Salem; saw his friend Mr. Norris there; told him of what it Vol. I.— N 99 %s^ 290 INSTITUTIONS. I J l\ ! ': was proposed to do, and of what had been done ; and ob* tained another 10,000 dollars, i It appeared that similar intentions, without the ex* change of opinions, had been entertained by Mr. Abbott and Mrs. Phillips, of Andover ; and that they were wil- ling to apply 10,000 dollars each to a like use. An overture was immediately made to them, and immediately accepted. But, in coming to a definite arrangement, there were difficulties which made delay, and threatened to prevent the execution of the plan. These difficulties were connected with difference of religious creed ; but at length the matter was adjusted, and in favour of or- thodox principles. Thus the good work began. It has uniformly been under wise and efficient management ; and its resources have been fed time after time by its original friend, Mr. Bartlett. In addition to his first gift, he built the chapel, which cost 50,000 dollars ; afterward, one of the wings, and several houses for the professors, as well as endowed several professorships. It is thought that, in various ways, he has not given to this object less than 200,000 dollars ; and there is reason to believe that all his be- nevolent intentions are not yet fulfilled. He is, I think, the only original trustee now living. He was present at this anniversary ; is about seventy-eight years of age, and has a portly, intelligent, and venerable aspect. He was at first a shoemaker in Newbury, and became, in the end, for talents and success, a first-rate merchant. There are then, in fact, three institutions matured here ; and they are perfectly distinct, although they are held and managed by the same trust. The Academy supplies only an English education, and is meant to pre- pare young men as teachers ; a sort of normal school. The classical school is for boys, and meant to qualify them for college ; and the Theological Institution re- ceives pious young men, who have had collegiate or equal advantages, and prepares them for the ministry. They are all well appointed. The accommodations for the divinity students are good. The chapel is really INSTITUTIONS. 291 n done ; and ob< handsome. There is a fair philosophical apparatus, and a considerable library; not less than 11,000 volumes, and more select than many. My arrival was the more pleasant, as I met with so many of my former friends ; and among them, the Lieu- tenant-governor Armstrong and his lady, and Drs. Cod- man, Woods, Stuart, and Skinner. Mr. Matheson and myself met the trustees to dinner at the Mansion House, and afterward went to hear a sermon, which was called an oration, to the students, from Dr. Wheeler, of Burling- ton College. The subject was, " The manifestation of truth to every man's conscience." The discourse, if I may venture to criticise it, showed good mind, and power to say good things, with good feeling and expression. But it wanted harmony. There was a frequent effort to be fine, which ended in being turgid and abstruse. He appeared to have studied Coleridge and Chalmers, and with bad effect. It was, however, an interesting ex- ercise. The next day was really the day. We were all ac- cordingly summoned to assemble at or before the Man- sion House, at eight in the morning, that we might go in procession to the chapel. I was rejoiced to find in the muster new accessions of our former friends. The can- didates, or students, were first ; then came the alumni ; then the trustees, professors, visiters, and ministers, amounting altogether to about 300 persons. We got into line, and moved forward ; and had you seen it wind along among the trees, and athwart the grass-plots, with the morning sun sparkling on it through the trembling foliage, you had not deemed it a bad spectacle. When the head of the procession reached the chapel doors, instead of entering, it paused ; and the students and alumni filed off, and formed a line on each side, and uncovered, as to seniors and benefactors ; while the re- maining portions of the procession uncovered to them in turn, and moved on through their ranks to their places in the chapel. I need not be particular in stating the order of service, N2 292 ANDOVER COMMEWCEMENT. I- as it was very similar to that which was adopted at Am- herst Commencement. The exceptions were, that the speakers were supplied with a stand and a Bible, and that their address lay written before them, although they made little or no use of it. Besides this, the subjects were of a more theological complexion, and the exer- cises were suspended midway, for the purpose of dining, and renewed in the afternoon. As it must always happen, the exercises were of various character and merit. Generally, they were de- livered with fair action and accent; but ith little that was free and graceful. There was less declamation and bad taste than might have been expected ; and, with good average talent, there was much right feeling and just distinction. They discovered less vanity, and more directness of purpose, than is usual in these exhibitions. To be sure, they were older than is common with us ; still their danger would be rather to err from want of prudence than want of zeal. As a whole, the exercises were of a very refreshing and promising character; highly creditable alike to the teachers and the taught. The congratulatory addresses at the close were not used. Instead of them, some verses were sung. Dr. Woods, who presided, looked to me to offer the con- cluding prayer and benediction. The people showed that they could unite the spirit of true devotion with the avocations of the day. They were interested ; though weary, and the place so crowded, the profound silence was affecting. It gave to our last acts great solemnity. After the services, we called on the widows of Dr. Porter and the Rev. Mr. Cornelius. Dr. Porter was president of this college ; and Mr. Cornelius was well known by his labours, as secretary to the Foreign Mis- sionary Society ; it owes, perhaps, as much to him as to any one person. The church has lost in them two 6f her most gifted and pious sons. This day, while one of joy to others, was one of extra grief to these widows ; and they required the gentle sympathy of their friends. MrSr Cornelius is left with six children. She seemed !CT. ANDOVER COMMENCEMENT. 293 adopted at Am- were, that the ind a Bible, and n, although they lis, the subjects , and the exer- irpose of dining, srcises were of f, they were de- . ith little that ieclamation and Jted ; and, with ight feehng and canity, and more lese exhibitions. )mmon with us ; rr from want of le, the exercise.<» sing character ; d the taught, close were not ere sung. Dr. offer the con- people showed votion with the rested ; though rofound silence jreat solemnity, widows of Dr. )r. Porter was lelius was well le Foreign Mis- ich to him as to in them two 6f day, while one these widows ; ►f their friends. She seemed gratified with an opportunity of intercourse. I, in turn, was gratified to learn from her, that so excellent a man as her husband had had communion of spirit with me, through the medium of the Missionary Sermon. I left this house of quiet mourning, with its widow and father- less children, with much concern. But " God is in his holy habitation." We took tea at Professor Stuart's, with many friends. A Mr. Styles, from Georgia, came, and begged an intro- duction, and expressed much affection and pleasure at the visit of the Delegation. He had been an attorney, at once worldly and successful, and even opposed to religion. Suddenly his wife died; he fell under the stroke ; gave up the world ; studied at Andover ; and returned to preach the faith which once he denied. He has now laboured in this cause for twelve years, and been very useful. Throughout, his attention has been chiefly directed to the welfare of the slave. Before he left, he and Dr. Stuart retired with us, and they both en- gaa;ed in prayer with much tenderness and simplicity. After tea, most of the friends moved off to chapel, to hear a concluding sermon by Mr. Dickenson. Mean- time, Drs. Beecher and Woods came in, and we had got into a corner of the room with our host in a good round conversation. I was not willing to leave such an oppor- tunity without improvement ; and we spent the evening together most agreeably, and to me most profitably. On returning to Dr. Woods', we found out selves in the bosom of a large and affectionate family circle. We closed our intercourse with a common act of domestic worship, which was delightfully solemn ; and then sought repose from the fatigues of the day. On the following morning we breakfasted at Mr. Farrar's, the treasurer of the Institution, in company with Drs. Church and Wisner, and other friends. Mrs. Farrar is the grand-daughter of President Edwards ; and it was a real gratification to meet with a branch of his family. We afterward visited again the schools and colleges ; had some pleasant intercourse with Dr. Woods 25* 294 JOURNEY TO MAINE. and his family ; took a hasty refreshment at Professor Emerson's ; and left in a carriage which had been pro- cured for us by the zeal of Professor Stuart, when other means of conveyance had failed. Though thus hasty, T know of no visit that has been more delightful. The Woods family, of which I saw most, is full of sweet natural aflection. Dr. Woods is greatly blessed in his children, and they in their father. On every side, indeed, there was an overflow of kind- ness. The remembrance of Andover will be sweet and sunny to me ! I'. ' ) i LKTTEU XXV. Jii I , My dear Friend, We were now making our way into Maine, and taking the most interesting places in our course. Our first object was Salem, to which our friend's carriage was to convey us. The quiet of this ride assorted well with my state of mind ; and the passage tnrough the cool air refreshed the spirits, under excitement and separation. The scenery had no remarkable features, but it was not uninteresting. We wound our way along through heads of granite rock, partly covered with trees, which found a precarious and dwarfed existence on their impenetrable sides. These and the roadside were enlivened, and even beautified, by the great abundance of the barberry shrub, which was now in fruit. ^ On reaching Salem, a gentleman immediately came up and greeted us. He said we had met on the platform at the Boston meetings. I found from him that we had about an hour and a half to wait for the stage which was to take us onward ; and engaged him to acquaint us with the things in the town best worth knowing. The Museum is the lion of this place. We made a hasty JOURNEY TO IPSWICH. 295 lent at Professor ch had been pro- Ituart, when other [sit that has been of which I saw 1. Dr. Woods is ey in their father, overflow of kind- will be sweet and Vlaine, and taking ourse. Our first s carriage was to (sorted well with rough the cool air t and separation. 3S, but it was not ng through heads es, which found a heir impenetrable e enlivened, and B of the barberry lediately came up L)n the platform at him that we had the stage which lim to acquaint us 1 knowing. The Ve made a hasty survey of it ; and it is unusually good and extensive, considering where it is found. It arose in a very lauda- ble spirit. This town enjoyed an extensive trade to the East ; and it was thought it might be made to contribute to science, as well as to opulence. A society was formed ; and all those were eligible as members who had doubled the Cape, or who had vessels that did. Each master or supercargo was supplied with a journal, in which he was to make notes ; and he was expected to collect, as occasion offered itself, such curiosities as might illustrate the character of the people and of the regions which they visited. We ascended to the top of our hotel, to take a bird's eye view of the town, and to observe in the distance the spot where the persons were burnt who were condemned for the- sin of witchcraft. What lamentation, that even here the fires of persecution should have been enkindled ! The towns along this seaboard were mostly of early settlement. Salem was among the earliest, and is more than two centuries old. It is, after Boston, one of the most populous towns in New-England , and, allowing for that nakedness which is so common on the seashore, is very pleasant. It has a fine harbour ; but its trade has fallen away greatly. There are, however, upon it no marks of dilapidation or decay. At four we took leave of our friend, and started for Ipswich. We arrived at the close of day ; and, having refreshed ourselves by tea, we went in search of the school here, which is superintended by Miss Grant. I had met this lady at Cincinnati ; and although she had not returned, she had prepared Miss Lyon, who acted as principal in her absence, to receive us. The evening was pleasantly and usefully employed, in obtaining, by free conversation, the details of the establishment. It is one of high repute in New-England, and will require attention elsewhere. The temperature here changed in the night very sud- denly. I was awoke twice with the cold ; and, in the morning, found my thermometer, which had been in the 296 NEWBUnVPORT. i'i 1;!V t chamber all night, at 46°. The brethren called on ui early, and were deputed by Miss Lyon to request that we would open the school by prayer. I excused myself, as I had devoted an hour to writing, and Mr. Matheson went. I afterward walked out with one of the brethren. The town stands on a rock, and is relieved by pretty declivities and a fine stream. I was shown a head of granite rock, on which George Whitefield stood, and preached on those words, " On this rock will I build my church," &c. There is now a church standing on part of it ; and it is not unlikely that it owes its existence, in a great measure, to his apostolic labours. I called to take leave of my obliging friend, Miss Lyon. Nothing would satisfy her but that I should meet the school. I did so ; and we united together in an act of worship. At eleven o'clock, we went on to Newburyport. Here we were met by Dr. Dana and Mr. Bannister ; and were received with much courtesy and cordiality at the residence of the latter gentleman. He has a most com- fortable house ; it is not only like ours, it is quite English ; but English in the olden style. The forms, carvings, cornices, and patterns, such as I have seen a hundred times ; and tho beautiful limes in the fore-court were literally brought from England. We had a conference with the pastors here ; and afterward went to the church, which is enriched with the remains of Whitefield. The elders of the church were present in the porch to receive us. We descended to the vault. There were three coffins before us. Two pas- tors of the church lay on either side ; and the remains of Whitefield in the centre. The cover was slipped aside, and they lay beneath my eye. I had before stood in his pulpits ; seen his books, his rings, and chairs ; but never before had I looked on part of his very self. The scull, which is perfect, clean, and fair, I received, as is the custom, into my hand. I could say nothing ; but thought and feeling were busy. On returning to the church, I proposed an exercise of worship. We collected over ^ili 'ij' WIHTEPIELD. 297 thren called on ui to request that we xcused myself, as nd Mr. Matheson e of the brethren, relieved by pretty shown a head of tefield stood, and ck will I build my standing on part 3s its existence, in rs. ring friend. Miss ut that I should inited together in to Newburyport. r. Bannister ; and i cordiality at the 9 has a most com- ours, it is quite yle. The forms, as I have seen a in: the fore-court stors here ; and enriched with the the church were We descended to )re us. Two pas- id the remains of as slipped aside, iioxe stood in his ihairs ; but never jelf. The scull, ceived, as is the ing; but thought to the church, I le colleoted over the grave of the eloquent, the devoted, and seraphic man, and gave expression to the sentiments that posses- sed us, by solemn psalmody and fervent [>raycr. It was not an ordinary service to any of us. More care should be taken to preserve these remains, and less freedom used in the exhibition of them. There are three slabs before the pulpit, to record the interments beneath. But, recently, Mr. Bartlelt has erected, in one angle of the church, a splendid monument to the name of Whitefield. It was prepared in Italy, and bears the following epitaph, from the pen of the excellent Dr. Porter ; himself now needing, from some kindred hand, the like office : — THIS CENOTAPH 18 ERECTED, WITH AFFECTIONATE VENERATION, TO THE MEMORY OP THE REV. GEORGE WHITEFIELD, BORN AT GLOUCESTER, ENG., DEC. 16, 1714; EDUCATED AT OXFORD university; ORDAINED, 1736 IN A MINISTRY OP 34 YEARS, HE CROSSED THE ATLANTIC 13 TIMES, AND PREACHED MORE THAN 18,000 SERMONS. As a soldier of the cross, humble^ devout, ardent, he put on the whole armour of God, preferring the honour of Christ to ?tts own interest, repose, reputation, or life. As a Christian orator, his deep piety, disinterested zeal, and vivid imagination, gave unexampled energy to his look, action, and utterance. Bold, fervent, pungent, and popular in his eloquence, no other uninspired man ever preached to so large assemblies, or enforced the simple truths of the gospel by motives so persuasive and awful, and with an influence so powerful on the hearts of the hearers. He died of asthma, Sept. 30, 1770 ; suddenly exchanging his life of unparalleled labours for his eternal rest. On leaving the church, we called on Mr. Bartlett* N 3 298 PORTgllOUTH. He occupies a good house ; but lives in a very plain style; and has evidently more pleasure u\ bestowing than in consuming his property. We uxht, in huste, at a friend's to tea, and to enjoy some last words with the brethren ; and were thus engaged, when the mail called for us to go on to Portsmouth. The ministers here are excellent and useful men. Religion is in a thriving state ; and during the last winter, much serious concern obtained among the people. The town has a clean fnd agreeable appearance, and many of the residents :ue very respectable. Portsmouth is a seaport and naval (jtab) Iment; and is usually spoken of as an abandoned un i wicked place. During our stay, nothing occurred to oonfinn such an opinion, and there was some testimony n luet us at Saco, and urged us to divide our services for th-3 Sabbath. Mr. Matheson, therefore, stayed here ; and I went on to Portland, where the friends were expecting my arrival In accordance with previous invitation, I took my resi- ri*'nce at the Rev. Mr, Beckwith's. PORTLAND. 299 'es in a very plain isure ill bestowing e iixhtf in huBte, at a ast words with the hen the mail called ministers here are on is in a thriving tch serious concern wn has a clean t^nd f the residents :u-e ival ( 3tab) sb nent ; idoned uni wicked >ccurred to confirm le testimony io the I present condition, to a good lire, in a use. Here were [lat. Among other I attention, and was be expected from a : a great change had led against its con< Why," he exclaim- ould get drunk four drink at all. It is 'here was a wicked ction, which gave the town, re took the stage to low temperature a old one ; and there olty, to '.I.' the at- et us at Saco, and th-a Sabbath. Mr. and I went on to pecting my arrival on, I took my resi* Portland is a populous town, cont«itniuig about 14,000 persons. It has an extremely ilnr location on the ridge and side of a hill, running down tu the water, and having a beautiful bay on the one hand, and naibour on the other ; and, beyond both, the vast ocean. The htr - bour is completely land-locked, and yet possessing an eisy and safe access to the sea ; and the projecting luitds, which shut it in, present so many capes, ol differ- ni formation to the sight, as greatly to raise and orna- mcnt the scene. It is very considerable as a shippir»g port ; and its fair waters are enlivened by the constant movement of a great variety of vessels. The main street has the advantage of running along the ridge of the hill. It is wide and cheerful ; it is decorated by the town-hall, custom-house, and a church, which has a portico, with granite columns ; and its higher extremif terminates with a tower, called an observatory, used fur nautical and pleasurable, but not scientific purposes. From this point of sight, which is 140 feet above the level of the waters, you get a commanding and com- bined view of earth and sea, of great extent. On the day after my arrival, the Sabbath, I preached at Mr. Dwight's church in the morning, and at Mr. Beck- with's in the afternoon, to considerable and attentive con- gregations. In the evening, an annual sermon was to be delivered by the Rev. Mr. M'Ginnis, in favour of the Female Orphan Asylum, lately established in this place. He is a Baptist minister, of good repute here ; and I had pleasure in the prospect of attending the service. The other churches were closed on the occasion ; and the congregation was made up by a contribution from all. The service and the object are both popular with the people ; and the place was very crowded. I was pressed to take a seat in the pulpit, as is very common here ; but, as a hearer, I did not enjoy so conspicuous a station, and I declined it. Besides which, being in the pulpit is the next step to partaking in its duties ; and I was already exhausted, and had much desire to hear. The usual service went on. The singing was rather theatii- 300 SABBATH. i .• '■ i ^il Ill •' % cal, but it was a special occasion ; and professed singers seldom neglect any occasion for display. The sermon was read ; it was superior as a composition ; but it was somewhat above the congregation. The closing appeals were good, and such as I had been familiar to at home. The preacher closed ; the children sung ; and a collec- tion was about to be made, when he came forward again to the front of the pulpit, and said, he understood that they were favoured with the presence of a minister from England ; and that he had, for many years, been devoted to some orphan estabUshments in that country ; and so- licited it as a great benefit to this infant Asylum, that I would oblige the congregation with some particulars rel- ative to those institutions. I was confounded ; for I had never spoken to the preacher, and knew not that my name, much less my engagements, had ever been before him. But, in an instant, the eyes of all present were directed towards me, and a movement made to let me pass. I had no option. To have risen and declined the request was as trying as to comply with it; and, as to comply was the more grateful part, I obeyed the bid- ding, and went to the pulpit. T scarcely know what I said. Briefly, I gave them a sketch of the origin and advancement of the London Orphan Asylum ; and, by a reference to its difficulties and success, used its history as an encouragement to their incipient exertions. My observations were then made to fall in with the preacher's address, and to support his appeal. It was most kindly received ; and the collection was greater than it had been on any former occasion. Mr. Cutter, the Mayor, and his lady, sought an introduction after the service, and invited me to return and stay with them. An invi- tation which I declined only on the ground of prior en- gagement. From this day's exercise, although it was evident there was a large proportion of religious persons in the town, it did not appear to me that religion at this time was in a thriving state. Their pastors had been removed ; the people had got unsettled, and in some cases disappointed ; DR. PAYSON. 301 md professed singers splay. The sermon iposition ; but it was The closing appeals familiar to at home. sung ; and a collec- came forward again he understood that ;e of a minister from years, been devoted lat country ; and so- ifant Asylum, that I some particulars rel- onfounded ; for I had knew not that my lad ever been before of all present were ent made to let me risen and declined ply with it ; and, as rt, I obeyed the bid- arcely know what I h of the origin and Asylum ; and, by a ;ess, used its history lent exertions. My 1 with the preacher's It was most kindly greater than it had . Cutter, the Mayor, I after the service, ith them. An invi- ground of .prior en- it was evident there •ersons in the town, t this time was in a jeen removed ; the cases disappointed ; and though other men of talent and piety had been chosen to stand in their places, it required some time to put forth a pastor's influence, and to gather together that which had been scattered, or enliven what had become torpid. Payson, too, was gone ! and for his flock, as yet, no shepherd had been found. The Monday, being the only day remaining, was a very busy one, I visited the town, received calls and made them, and sought information. At noon 1 had an appointment with the Ladies' Committee to inspect the Orphan Asylum. It has within it twenty-three female children ; they are not all orphans. The dwelling is clean, and managed with economy and care. I felt half at home amid the little fatherless family. We sang and prayed together ; and took a respectful leave of the managing ladies. Of course, there was nothing to learn. America herself has "no London Orphan Asylum ; it would be absurd to expect that she had. Happily, at present, she does not need these charities as we do ; when she does, she will learn of us, and rival us. We dined at Mrs. Payson's, the widow of Dr. Payson, with Dr. Humphrey, Mr. Nettleton, and other friends. I felt, as you may suppose, an interest in the family and in the house. Yes, in the house ! This was the very dwelling in which he lived, and wrestled, and prayed : and there was the very chamber, the very couch, where he communed with heaven, till he scarcely knew whether he was "in the body or out of the body." After dinner, agreeably to appointment, the brethren from the country came in, and we held a conference. About twenty were assembled. It was a delightful inter- view. Prayer was offered by Messrs. Nettleton and Johnson. In the evening we had to attend a public meeting. It was held in the church that was Payson's. It is the largest in the town, and it was very full. There were three prayers, and three addresses. Dr. Humphrey, Mr. Matheson, and myself, gave the addresses. As a depu- tation, we were introduced to the congregation by my 2G 802 DEPARTURE FOR BOSTON. i esteemed friend Mr. Nettleton. The service was long, but it was not felt to be so. It appeared to have made a good impression. By this lime, about forty of the ministers had come together ; some of them from great distances. As we could not hope to meet with them on the morrow, they stayed after the service, and we were introduced to each other. When our duties were closed, I amused myself, while waiting for a conveyance, with looking over the place. One of the elders attended me. He pointed to the pulpit, and said emphatically, " That is the place, sir, where Payson prayed.'''' I was struck with this remark. It gave me Payson's peculiarity in an instant. I had thought that whatever might have been his power as a preacher, it was greatest in prayer. I was now sure of it. On the morning of the 15th, we had to leave by the steamboat early for Boston. Mr. Cutter kindly took us to the wharf in his carriage ; and he, with Dr. Hum- phrey and other friends, saw us to the ship. All our pleasant meetings were now beginning to be dashed with sorrow, from the prevalent idea that we wer6 parting — perhaps for ever. The town had a fine aspect as we moved out of the harbour. As we got farther out, the haze which is com- mon here closed in around us, like a gauze curtain illu- minated by the growing lights of the rising sun. Every thing was mist, and every thing was hidden, except a pretty fishing sloop, which lay sufficiently near to be seen, surrounded by the haze, and glowing with light. It had an indefiniteness and a lustre about it which made it look unreal, and it presented the most perfect picture of repose in an object and on an element almost always agitated. It was lovely and fascinating; and supplied an evidence how readily, when nature is the painter, an ordinary and insignificant object may be made illustrious. We had a charming run ; a good sight of Lynn, Salem, Marblehead, and Nahant, on our way ; and reached Boston at five o^clock, having been ten hours in making BOSTON. 303 a distance of ninety miles. Mr. Matheson went to Mr. Stoddard's; and I was kindly welcomed to my former accommodations in the family of Lieutenant-governor Armstrong. LETTER XXVL My dear Friend, I BELIEVE, in my former hasty visit to Boston, I took no notice of its topography ; yet it ought not to be passed over in silence. Everywhere it meets the eye in impo- sing forms, and nowhere, perhaps, so forcibly, as by the entrance we made to it yesterday from the water. The expanded waters are themselves fine objects, being relieved by a variety of islands and headlands of very picturesque character and position, and animated by the number of vessels which are seeking egress or ingress to this port. From these, and above the shipping, the town rises on the three hills which compose its site, crowned with its domed and turreted State House. These hills spring about 100 feet above the level of the water; and the State House rises about 120 feet above them ; and they have, from the lower surfaces, to a great distance, a commanding stnd magnificent effect. The town of Boston is more Uke an English town than any other in the Union. It often reminds one of Bristol, though it is not enriched with such fine land- scape scenery as is that favourite city. Its streets of business are narrow and irregular ; but those of more re- cent date, and for domestic use, have more freedom. It has been outrun in population by the other great cities of the seaboard ; but, for its size, it has still the greater number of wealthy and well-educated residents ; and there is a proportionate number of commodious and handsome dwelUngs. It has, besides the State House, 304 BOSTON. , ■. I an Athenaeum, a market-place, picture-gallery, halls, and reading-rooms, which would be good in Bristol or Liver- pool. There are some recent erections of stores and warehouses on a large scale, faced with a fine white granite. When you enter the narrowest and poorest portions of the city, you meet with nothing that offends you. Poverty here is deprived of half its evil, by having for its wedded companion decided cleanliness. Indeed, it can be said to exist here only in a comparative and mild sense ; for the poorest have enough, and competency is wealth. For casualties, however, charity is not asleep ; slie stands with open door at the hospital and infirmary ; and her helping hand is ready in a thousand ways to aid those who are lowest to a better standing. But the advantage which Boston has, as distinguished from its rivals, is to be found in what is called the com- mon, or mall, but which has a better right to the name of park than many things so named elsewhere. It con- sists of an opening in the heart of the city of upwards of seventy acres. You could not choose the land to lie more handsomely than it does. It is bounded, as you may expect, by the finest houses and churches in the town. At its highest point it is perfected by the State House ; and from this point it runs off in beautiful slopes and swells, to the waters which separate Boston from the adjoining country. These waters are more than two miles wide, and, broken by the land, they have the air of a confluence of lakes and rivers ; and beyond them is seen, among the wooded hills, the smiUng villages and hamlets which are the offspring of the parent city. The park itself is kept in a verdant state, with excellent walks, and has a very cool and refreshing aspect, from its natural basin of water, and its fine overshadowing trees. On a fine summer's evening, when this scene is animated by the families of the worthy citizens, the elder moving down the shaded avenues, and the children, buoyant with life, chasing the elastic football over the green, I know nothing of its kind more admirable. I cannot dismiss this spot without expressing a fear HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 305 I •gallery, halls, and n Bristol or Liver- ons of stores and with a fine white west and poorest othing that offends its evil, by having anhness. Indeed, comparative and h, and competency ir, charity is not t the hospital and Jady in a thousand better standing, s, as distinguished is called the corn- right to the name sewhere. It con- city of upwards of ^e the land to lie lunded, as you may dies in the town, the State House ; autiful slopes and Boston from the e more than two ley have the air of 1 beyond them is liling villages and parent city. The :e, with excellent thing aspect, from le overshadowing vhen this scene is citizens, the elder ind the children, football over the admirable, expressing a fear that, in their excess of lov^e, the Bostonians may spoil it. I observed with regret, that a number of young trees had been recently planted over this park, which, if allowed to grow up as they stand, will entirely destroy the charm- ing effect of this picture. What had been previously done, had bee i done with great taste and efficiency ; but if the present plantations are realized, there will be a few French avenues, and nothing more. On the morning after our arrival I attended my friends to an exhibition of the Horticultural Society. It is made in the Public Hall, — a large room, with galleries in chapel style. It is frequently called the Cradle of Lib- erty ; since it was here that the celebrated resolutions were passed to resist the tea-tax. The room is deco- rated with several pictures, and at this time the galleries were filled with young pines, and among the pines were suspended a variety of singing-birds ; rather a forced attempt, certainly, to bring the freshness and melody of the woods into the city. To the eye, however, it was more grateful than a vacant space. For the area, there were along the sides of the walls, and resting against them, galleries filled with rare and curious plants ; and in the centre of the room were tables covered with the handsomest specimens of fruits and flowers that could be produced by the members. And everywhere there were gay festoons, and garlands of flowers, suspended from table to gallery, and gallery to ceiling. The speci- mens, which were really the subject of exhibition, were, for the age of the institution, and the circumstances under which they were produced, exceedingly good, and discovered great zeal and practical skill on the part of the contributors. When the company had had leisure to inspect and ad- mire the productions, an address was delivered before the Society by Mr. Gray, an intelligent merchant of the place. It commended the subject to their attention and pursuit, by an exposition of its advantages and their facilities. It was a very sensible address, and composed in good taste and hberal spirit ; and was, in fact, an evi- 2G* 306 MOUNT AUBURN. t ? dence of the humanizing and elevating influence which nature exerts on her true disciples. Tn the afternoon we made a visit to Cambridge and Mount Auburn. This college, or university, is the old- est in the Union, and has high claims to consideration and respect, though it has ceased to be the friend of or- thodox opinions. There is a sweet village-green here, surrounded by detached cottages, professors' residences, and two churches. The colleges are of various dates, and conform to no plan, either in elevation or arrange- ment, and occupy a flat surface. Nevertheless, with their verdant courts, and their ancient trees, they have, together, a venerable and interesting appearance. The library, museum, and philosophical instruments, are worthy of attention. The library is one of the largest and best in the country. It has upwards of 40,000 volumes, and some of them very rare and precious : they are about to erect a suitable room for its reception. Recently a law-school has been added to this estab- lishment. Judge Story, the professor in this department, was at pains to inform us relative to it anr! the fellow- colleges. Here is also an excellent library, remarkable for possessing a complete set of the Law Reports of Great Britain. The American Quarterly issues from this University, and does credit not only to it, but to the country, as a literary production. Mount Auburn is about two miles beyond Cambridge, and is a place of burial. It embraces no less than sixty acres of ground, and is a late purchase of the Horticul- tural Society, with the intiention of forming at once a garden and a sepulchre. The land is fine, clothed with young wood, and has beautiful undulations, affording al- ternately the most quiet little dells and pleasant outlooks. There cannot be better scope for English landscape- gardening than it suppUes ; and a skilful hand might soon place it above P^re la Chaise. It can never be so rich in tombs as this is ; but Pere la Chaise has no sense of retirement about it. This, even as it is, gives you the sense of silence without sadness, and retirement MOUNT AUBURN. 307 ig influence which to Cambridge and versity, is the old- is to consideration )e the friend of or- village-green here, ^essors' residences, I of various dates, vation or arrange- nevertheless, with It trees, they have, appearance. The instruments, are one of the largest )wards of 40,000 ire and precious : 1 for its reception, [led to this estab- in this department, it and the fellow- ibrary, remarkable Law Reports of terly issues from ily to it, but to the eyond Cambridge, no less than sixty le of the Horticul- 3rming at once a fine, clothed with ions, affording al- pleasant outlooks, nglish landscape- kilful hand might [t can never be so haise has no sense s it is, gives you 9, and retirement without gloom. But I am jealous of the hand of the mere hortic\Uturist ; and there are already reasons for this distrust. Formal beds and flowers, assorted by their genus, least of all accord with a cemetery. Now, it is not uncommon to see flowers crowded together over the new-made tomb ; and these not the humble daisy, violet, and primrose, which might spring from the sod and sleep on its bosom, but showy and glaring flowers, evidently fixed on the soil by an intrusive hand. A great many interments have been made here already. There is one just finishing, of great pretensions and ex- pense ; but money has been unskilfully applied, and has ruined it. It is full of small parts and small ornaments, which destroy its unity and power. There is one also for Spurzheim, which pleased me best ; it is simply a tomb, of massive parts, and has only his name cut on its side in bold and deep characters. There is also a neat monument for the amiable Hannah Adams. She was the first person interred in this ground, and the following superscription is on the tomb : — TO HANNAH ADAMS, HISTORIAN OF THE JEWS, AND REVIEWER OF THE CHRISTIAN SECTS, THIS MONl lENT IS ERECTED BY HER FEMALE FRIENDS. FIRST TENANT OF MOUNT AUBURN. SHE DIED DEC. 15, 1831. AGED 76. Because the drive to this place is very pleasant, and because the walks within are equally so, it has become quite a place of fashionable resort ; so that it may be said that the pleasure of the people of Boston consists in going to the grave. There were, I think, some dozen of carriages, and a number of saddle-horses, in attend- 308 ORDINATION. t ^ m Itmx ance when we went ; but it did not materially afTect the quiet of the place ; it is so extensive, and a pari,/ is so quickly lost in the numerous paths which wind about the acclivities. And all do not go for purposes of recrea- tion. As we made a sudden turn in one of the secluded walks, we came in sight of a tomb which had been just erected, and there were two newly-made widowers stand- ing over it, who had stolen from the crowd and the world, to gaze in solitude and silence on the spot which en- closed all i,hat was dearest to them on earth. We shanned them, lest we should seem to intrude on their sorrows. On the 17th we attended a council to which we were summoned, for the purpose of forming a church, and or- daining Mr. Jrcob Abbott as an evangelist, at Roxbury, about two miles from Boston. You will like to know the order of proceeding. The first business was to choose a moderator ; usually the senior minister present is chosen ; but on Dr. Jenks pleading excuse on account of deafness, Dr. Codman was appointed. Then a scribe for the occasion is chosen. The moderator offers prayer ; and then, on explaining the purport of their meeting, challenges any persons present to say whether they are prepared to offer themselves to be examined as suitable to com© into a state of church-fellowship. A member of a committee of arrangement, Mr. Abbott, arose, and stated that forty-five persons by letter, and six on pro- fession, were ready to offer themselves, and had been approved by the committee. A committee of two of the council was appointed to examine and report. They re- ported that the letters were examined, and were regular and satisfactory ; but that they had not examined those who offered themselves on profession ; and they sub- mitted that, as they had been examined by Mr. Abbott, an accredited minister among them, it was unnecessary. The report was accepted, and the usual examinations waived on the special ground taken. Mr. Abbott further reported, that the committee ad- vised him (Mr. Abbott) to offer himself for ordination as ORDER OF SERVICE. 309 aterially affect the and a par.,/ is so lich wind about the urposes of recrea- )ne of the secluded lich had been just ie widowers stand- owd and the woild, he spot which en- on earth. We intrude on their to which we were a church, and or- jelist, at Roxbury, will like to know business was to or minister present excuse on account d. Then a scribe rator offers prayer ; of their meeting, y whether they are imined as suitable (Tship. A member Abbott, arose, and ir, and six on pro- ves, and had been nittee of two of the 1 report. They re- , and were regular lOt examined those in ; and they sub- led by Mr. Abbott, i was unnecessary, isual examinations the committee ad- ilf for ordination as an evangelist ; and that he was prepared to be examined to that issue. Special reasons were required for his de- siring to be ordained as an evangelist, and not as a pastor ; and in this case were deemed sufficient. He then presented his certificate of education, and his license to exercise the ministry ; and stood for his examination. A vote was taken to refer the leading inquiries to the moderator ; but several of the council soon took part in them, though always careful to do it through the chair. The examination was limited to the opinions of the candidate on dogmatic theology, church discipline, and his experimental acquaintance with the truth he professed to acknowledge. When the examinations were finished, the moderator announced that the council would be alone. Immediately all strangers, including the candidates for membership and ordination, withdrew. The deliberations of the council continued some time, but they were con- fidential. There was a want of unanimity ; and it was therefore thought advisable to see Mr. Abbott again. The examinations were renewed, and explanations were candidly given. The candidate was then requested to retire, and a vote was taken, " that the council do pro- ceed to the ordination of Mr. Jacob Abbott." The order of the ordination service was then agreed to, and the council adjourned to the Baptist Church, at which the service was to be, as affording better accom- modation. We had been pressed to take part in the service ; but the examinations had been so much longer than usual, as to make it necessary to leave immediately, to comply with other engagements. The following is the order of service, as it was printed for the use of the con- gregation : — Formation of the Church. READING THE SCRIPTURES. HYMN. INTRODUCTORY ADDRESS — REV. MR. BURGESS. ORGANIZING THE CHURCH AND CONSECRATIN PRAYER REV. DR. CODMAN. 310 ELIOT CHURCH. HYMN. " 'Tis done— the sreat transaction's dona ; I am my Lord s, and he is mine : He drew me, and I followed on, Rejoiced to own the call divine. " Now rest, my long divided heart, Fix'd on this blissful centre, rest, Here h ive I found a nobler part. Here heavenly pleaburcs fill my breast. " High Heaven, that hears the solemn vow. That vow renewed shall daily hear ; Till in life's latest hour I bow. And bless in death a bond so dear." RIGHT HAND OP FELLOWSHIP TO THE CHURCH, REV. MR. WINSLOW. Ordination. t • ■ f ORDAINING PRAYER REV. MR. OILE. CHARGE REV. DR. \\riSNER. RIGHT HAND OF FELL :?WSHIP TO THE CANDIDATE, REV. MR. N. ADAMS. HYMN. ADDRESS — REV. MR. BLAGDEN. CONCLUDING PRAYER. DOXOLOGY. BENEDICTION. ?■• There was one circumstance of interest in this case. The first church in Roxbury had EUot, the missionary, for its pastor ; there had been no orthodox Congrega- tional church from that time, It would be revived in the engagements of this day ; and the associated saints were to take the name of the Eliot Church. Mr. Abbott was still to labour among them ; although he was unwilling, in their existing condition, expressly to assume the re- lationship of a pastor. We hastened to town, to attend a meeting of mer- chants on the subject of making mercantile pursuits auxiliary to missionary objects. We met at Cowper's MEETING OF MERCHANTS. 311 THE CHURCH, Rooms. The notice was short : but thirteen gentlemen, out of twenty, attended. We explained the design of the meeting, the objects to be attained, and the especial facilities which merchants, as such, had towards their attainment. We stated what had been done in New- York and in London ; and solicited candid opinion on the important subject. Many interesting and affecting state- ments were made ; especially of the abuses practised on the sailor when on shore. Communication followed communication, till each one seemed to wonder that, when so much evil existed, and so much good might be done, so little had been attempted. The consequence was, that they unanimously resolved on an adjourned meeting, to which other pious merchants should be in- vited ; and a sub-committee was appointed, to consider and arrange the business. The subject continued before these gentlemen during our stay ; and possibly, before this shall pass from my hands, further information may arrive. In the evening, we met, at Mr. John Tappan's, a party of about forty persons. I gained information from him on the subject of the slavery question. Dr. Beecher, whom I was to have met here relative to that matter, had arrived before me. Some meetings, however, had been held, and a plan was under discussion. I was invited to attend a meeting of the provisional committee, but was unable. If the subject is well managed at this crisis, it may do every thing ; but I have my fears. The party was very agreeable, and well informed. We were mostly on our feet, forming little groups in the different rooms; and participating of coffee, tea, cake, lemonade, ices, and fruits, which were served in succession. Our intercourse was closed, as usual, with an act of worshi}), and we retired between ten and eleven o'clock. While on this visit, I inspected the State Prison, the Athenaeum, the Schools, the State House ; and obtained the particulars of the Savings Bank and other institu- tions. I was particularly concerned to know what were the pursuits and the progress of the children in the 312 MEETING OP MINISTERS. I ( '■I coloured schools ; and ) certainly think their parts are, on an average, equal to those of the whites ; they are, perhaps, usually quicker, though not more »olid. The master here, who had had considerable experience in both, assured me that it was quite as easy to teach the blacks. It was somewhat curious to hear them ad- dressed as master and miss. Here the coloured popula- tion are free ; and the circumstance of bond or free enters materially into the development of the faculties ; especially those of the superior class. On the 19th we attended a convention of ministers, called at our suggestion. We had upwards of twenty brethren present ; and Dr. Stuart, who was visiting Boa* ton, presided. We remained together about two hours, and received, in free intercourse, most important and cheering information relative to the state of religion. We took tea at Dr. Wisner's, and then hastened to a public and farewell meeting, which was to be held at Park-siiset Church. Supposing that such a meeting would be freely attended, it had been wisely made select, by announcing it as a meeting of pastors and churches. Such a notice, with us, would certainly have little effect in giving selectness to a meeting ; but here it would be generally understood to limit it to the mem- bers of churches, and would, generally, be obeyed. In fact, on arriving at the place, we found it full, and, mostly, with members of the several churches. And it was truly a most exhilarating sight. We had before been sympathizing deeply with the orthodox, in the gradual introduction and prevalence of corrupt opinions, and in the reviving energy of the truth in more recent days; and here was the evidence before our eyes. I suppose 3,000 persons were present ; and they were, for the most part, the choicest members of the various com- munities. The service was composed of three prayers and three addresses, with the usual singing. The prayers were offered by Mr. Blagden, and Drs. Jenks and Codman. The addresses were taken by the Depu- tation and Dr. Stuart. The professor, in the name of the 'ERS. ink their parts are, ' whites ; they are, more 8olid. The able experience in s easy to teach the to hear them ad- iie coloured popula- :o of bond or free nt of the faculties ; sntion of ministers, upwards of twenty [) was visiting Bos- 3r about two hours, lost important and state of religion. then hastened to a was to be held at It such a meeting been wisely made ng of pastors and ould certainly have meeting ; but here imit it to the mem- ly, be obeyed. In found it full, and, churches. And it We had before orthodox, in the f corrupt opinions, ith in more recent sfore our eyes. I and they were, for f the various com- d of three prayers al singing. The n, and Drs. Jenks aken by the Depu- in the name of the DORCESTER. 313 churches, congratulated us on our visit, expatiated on its good and kindly influence, and assured us, and the churches we represented, of their sympathy and affection. At the close, we all rose, and sang that lavourite hymn, " BlessM be the tie that binds," &c. We were six brethren in the pulpit ; and as the sacred melody went to its close, we found ourselves spontaneously locked arm to arm. It was a very affecting and delightful service. We were of one heart, and one mind, and one voice ; the only difficulty was in parting. Slowly the people moved away that night, and many were the aflfectionate greetings. But the last words would come, and the last lingerer must leave the now forsaken house of God. I had peculiar sen^ .tions on quitting that church. I had been within it so often, and on such delightful occasions ; and it was now to receive me no more. We had still to pass a couple of days in the city. On the Saturday, we dined at Dr. Codman's, wi^n a number of esteemed friends. He resides at Dorchester, a de- lightful village, about six miles from Boston; and his residence commands a prospect which is at once rural and magnificent. Dr. Codman received his education in Britain, and he seems to have been prepared by Provi- dence for the station he has been called to occupy. When heresy came in like a flood over Boston, it spread also over much of its vicinity. He saw one after another swept away by it, frequently his particular friends, but he remained firm ; and when at last it reached himself, he stood immoveable. He was subject- ed to violent persecution for the truth's sake ; aiid a de- termined effort was made to deprive him of the church in which he laboured, but without success. When almost every thing else was possessed by the enemy, Dorchester remained as a commanding and im- pregnable outpost; secure in itself, and waiting for the first opportunities of favourable action. Those opportu- nities have come, and have been improved; and our friend's firmness, conciliation, and extensive influence, have contributed, with other means, in no small degree, Vol. I.— O 97 ■w 314 DORCHESTER. I ; l! .1 I to the change which he has witnessed. He now rejoices in comparing the present with the past ; he deserves and he enjoys the esteem and confidence of his younger brethren, as one who has borne " the heat and burden of the day ;" and to him the words of a higher testimony seem peculiarly appropriate — " I know thy work, and thy labour, and thy patience, and how thou canst not bear them that are evil ; and thou hast tried them who say they are apostles, and are not, and hast found them liars ; and hast borne, and hast patience, and for my name's sake hast laboured, and hast not fainted !" Apart from his general influence. Dr. Codman's labours for his particular charge have been followed with the best results. Besides his other advantages, he holds a con- siderable patrimony, and has a consort qualified to unite with him in every plan of benevolence. Here are Sab- bath schools, working schools, and an academy for supe- rior education. The ignorant are taught ; the sick find medicine and sympathy ; and the poor are prompted to adopt methods of domestic thrift and decency. The whole village presents an excellent example of the effect of religion so administered. No children are left to grow up in ignorance ; few persons abstain from a place of worship : and here, where every thing else is on a small scale, the schools and churches assume an imposing character. On leaving our friend's hospitable abode, I returned to town with Mr. and Mrs. Armstrong, to attend a few friends at their residence in an exercise of prayer. Messrs. Tappan, Hubbard, and Stoddard, the Rev. Mr. Edwards, and Dr. Wisner, were of the party. It was a refreshing evening, and a suitable preparation for the Sabbath. On the following day, the last of our continuance, we preached alternately at the Old South in the morning, and at Dr. Codman's in the afternoon. They were ser- vices I shall not forget. At the close of the afternoon service, Dr. Codman had to submit to his church an ap- plication which had been made to him to go as a delegate JOURNEY TO HARTFORD. 315 to England ; and he solicited me to preside on the occa- sion. On requesting the church to remain, I was struck and gratified to find a majority of the congregation stay. In most congregations, on such a notice being given, how small a minority would have retained their seats ! Dr. Codman explained the application, and submitted his views to them. I then addressed them. It was to me and to them an interesting subject. It was proposed and seconded, in the form of a resolution ; and on taking the sense of the church, it was unanimously carried. There was certainly something remarkable in an English delegate being called to act on such an occasion. LETTER XXVII. sume an imposing Mv DKAR Friend, On the morning of the 22d, at half past two o'clock, we quitted Boston for Hartford. The ride is not suffi- ciently interesting to justify me in detaining your atten- tion on it. We arrived late in the evening, and sought at the inn immediate repose. Early in the morning our kind friends were about us, and saw us comfortably settled. I was received into the family of Mr. Hudson, an intimate friend of Mr. Boorman. I had written previously to Dr. Hawes of this place, from Northampton, expressing regret that we had not been able to meet the brethren of Connecticut at their usual meeting, and stating the time when we expected to be at Hartford, in the hope that some of them might be brought together at that period. He had acted promptly to this end ; meetings were arranged for the whole day that we might not be idle ; and so readily was the call obeyed, that we had a larger association of the brethren than had occurred for a long season. Hartford is a pleasant and thriving tow^n on the banks 03 I • 316 HARTFORD. 1 > ' of the Connecticut, and is associated with interesting recollections. It was first settled in 1635, by a little colony from Massachusetts. About a hundred came, and among them was Thomas Hooker, the first minister of the place. It was quite an adventure, and they were nine days in coming. I saw his tomb ; and it is remarkable that the church over which he presided has had ten pas> tors ; and that the nine who have died all lie buried in one place. In the same ground is also the tomb of Winchester. It is singular, that while the heresy of this man has died out in our country, it is thriving as an exotic in America. There is shown here as a great curiosity what is called the Charter Oak. It is considered to be an aboriginal of the forest; and though it has seen a city grow up about it, and generations pass away, it is still full of vig- our, and crowned with living beauty. It is as sacred to the people as it would be to a race of Druids, from the following circumstances. Sir Edmund Andross was sent over in 1687, to demand the charter of the colony. He had a meeting with the responsible parties on the sub- ject ; and when Wadsworth comprehended his intentions, he threw his cloak over the table, extinguished the lights, and disappeared with the charter. It was carefully hid- den in the body of this venerable tree, and remained there for many years. When there was nothing more to ap- prehend for it, it was taken out, and is now deposited in the office of the Secretary of State. There is here also an hospital for the insane ; an asy- lum for the deaf and dumb ; and a college for the educa- tion of young men trained fur the Episcopal Church. They all contribute to ornament and commend the town. The asylum has acquired distinction, even in comparison with those of Paris and London ; and is excellently bon- ducted. The Episcopal college is a good establishment ; and capable of accommodating about 100 pupils. It is not, I believe, in a very vigorous condition. The col- lege bills for the year are fifty-two dollars ; and the students get their board in private families at one dollar and a half per week. i i CONFERENCE. 317 Our first meeting was with the brethren at ten o'clock. We met in the lecture-room, connected with Dr. Hawes's church. There were no less than seventy or eighty pres- ent. We remained in conference and prayer till one. The conference was of the most fraternal and interesting kind. It related to the state of religion in the two coun- tries. The communications on the subject of revivals were edifying ; and the statements of Professor Goodrich, on the revivals among the students at Yale College, were such as moved him and all of us. They were very desirous to learn our state ; and were cheered and grateful on receiving the communications we felt at liberty to supply. Particularly they were anxious to know, whether we had any thing approaching to the character of their revivals. I remarked that we had not the name ; and that we had not, and wore even jealous of, some varieties of the thing, as they might be found in the States ; but that I thought we had in substance what they would be most disposed to approve. Without employing any names, I then gave them a brief sketch of a church with which I was intimately acquainted, relative to its progress, and the means employed to that end, during ..he last ten years. They were delighted, and exclaimed, " Why, this is a revival, and the only kind of a revival which we approve." Our sitting was very long considering our other engagements ; but we were as brethren, and were exceedingly unwilling to part. At two, we had to attend a special meeting of the Bible Society. The Association embraced four counties ; and it had engaged to raise 5,000 dollars towards the assistance of Gutzlaff, in circulating the Scriptures among the Chinese. Nothing could have assorted with my wishes better ; and I was happy to give my help to such a cause. The meeting was in the church, and was very well attendeu. It was conducted in the usual order of the platform meetings, and contributed to facilitate the object to which they were pledged. One of the friends had open house to tea. There were several rooms occupied. One of them is honoured with 27* 318 MISSIONARY ORDINATION. i > ;! ! • i t : ; [ : I 1 having witnessed the formation of the Missionary Soci- ety. Mrs. Sigourney was one of our party ; and I was gratified with an introduction to her. We had a tite-d- We of a few minutes ; and had no fault to find with them, except that they were few, and likely to be final. In the evening we attended the ordination of two brethren ; the one about to leave as a missionary to the sailors at Marseilles, and the other as an evangelist. We met in Dr. Hawes's church again, and the place was very full. The service began by singing. Then an invocation prayer was offered, which noticed distinctly all the succeeding parts of the service, and craved the suitable blessing on each and all. Then the scribe read the minutes which led to this public service, and justified their proceeding. The ordination prayer followed, with the laying on of hands ; it rested with me. The charge was given by Dr. Parkins, the father of the Association, and eighty-two years of age. It was composed of short, suitable, and pithy counsel, as from a father to his sons, and lasted about twenty minutes. The right hand of fellowship was then given. The pastor of the missionary, a junior pastor in the town, took this service. It is always made more of 2tian with us ; but I never saw so much made of it before. The address was composed and read, which destroyed that freedom which is the grace of grat- ulation and benediction. It was, I think, as long as the charge. The right hand was given three several times, and the manner altogether was too theatrical. It had been excellently done, had it not been overdone; but there was, after all, a warmth of heart that redeemed it. The instructions from the Sailor's Society to their mis- sionary were then read by their agent. We afterward rose, and united in singing once more their favourite hymn, " Bless'd be the tie that binds," &c., and the ser- vice closed by prayer and the benediction. Having breakfasted and united in domestic worship, we took an affectionate leave of the friends here, and left by the stage for New-Haven. The ride greatly improved in comparis&n with the last. The flowing river, fine rich NEW-IIAVE\. 319 valleys, towns and villages imbosomed in ihem, and sur- rounding highlands, in their various combinations, filled the eye, and exhilarated the imagination. We arrived at New-Haven early in the afternoon, and found Mrs. Whitney prepared with the most hospitable kindness to re- ceive us. This excellent lady is the relict of Eli Whitney, Esq., the inventor of the cotton gin — the Arkwright of America. Though his name has been little honoured in his own country, and scarcely known in ours, his genius has secured an important trade to the Southern States, and is annually bringing a large revenue to the govern- ment. He discovered the same force of mechanical genius in other ways ; and though he sunk under the persevering ardour of his muid, and the discouragements common to the inventor, his family are deriving consid- erable advantages from his labours. I should offend against feminine and Christian delicacy, if I said how much, in this instance, property is made to serve the cause of religious benevolence. Mrs. Whitney is the grand- daughter of President Edwards. We found that a public meeting had been arranged for us in the evening ; so that we had to hasten our re- freshments, and attend it. Meantime the professors and other friends did us the favour to call. The meeting was at the Congregational Church, of which the Rev. L. Bacon is pastor. It is large and handsome, and was quite filled. Here we met with Dr. Beecher, and he took a seat with us in the pulpit. Pra} er was offered ; and the Deputation made addresses. After I had finished, Dr. Beecher followed. It was a very interesting service ; nowhere had the New-England peo- ple shown more readiness to receive the delegation with respect and affect