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SKETCHES (^F AN EXCURSION
THRODGH
VERMONT
AND AMONG THB
WHITE MOUNTAINS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE,
ETC., ETC.;
IN 1864 AND 1865.
BY
JOHN C. BAKER.
3i«o«ttcal:
PRINTED BY JOHN LOVELL, ST. NICHOLAS STREET.
1869.
;\l I I I I ,
These Sketches of Local Travel, miide during a trip undertaken for
health and recreation, were originally printed in the Montreal Dailij
Witness, under tiie tiiie of " A Buggy Uide among the Hills and Dales of
N3VV England," and, at the request of some of the writer's friends, are
now reprinled in a more permanent form for their acceptance.
Stanbridge, P.Q., Canada,
Dec, 1869.
VERMONT
AND THE)
WHITE MOUNTAINS.
Of late the mode of travel by railway and steamboat is so
universal and common, that the title of these sketches pre-
sents some novelty, if the hasty jottings of the writer do no'o
furnish anything very entertaining or attractive.
On a hot, hazy afternoon in June, Ave crossed the Province
line, in the Township of Richford, Vt. ; in our rear we had a
very fine view of the '* Pinnacle" in St. Armand East, and as
■we descended a long hill, the village of Richford, Missisquoi
River, its fine intervales, and the back-ground formed by the
Green Mountains, presented a landscape not easily forgotten.
Following up the river, we recross the line into Canada.
and stop for the night. Getting an early start, we pass the
village of North Troy, Vt., but, as the village has a rather
rusty look, did not form a very favourable opinion of tlie
modern Trojans ; we now took a south-easterly course throuiiji
a newly-settled tract, and uninteresting, until, just before
arriving at Newport, Ave came in sight of the south end of
" our" charming Meraphremagog. Newport has the appear-
ance of a thriving place, being the terminus of the Passump-
sic Railway, Avhich in summer forms a connection with the
little steamer " Mountain Maid." Stopped over night at the
Momphremagog House, a fine hotel, well kept. Getting an
early start we, on looking back, find that Newport, iu
connection with the Lalce, forms a very pleasin::; view. The
road from Newport to VVillougliby Lake passes throuj»>
several very neat and thriving vilhi-es and a fine farming
country, devoted to stock raising and dairy purposes. The
Scenery is superb ; beautiful little lakes, (ponds they call
theui here), surrounded by fine meadows, give exquisite
pleasure to the eye ; the roads are good, and altogether
furnishing us a most entertaining day's ride.
Wil'oughby Lake, in the township of Westmore, Vt., is of
a cresccn't shape, about 6 miles long and from i to 2 miles
in width, situated in a deep chasm of the Green Mountains ;
near the south end rise, on either side, exactly opposite,
mountains nearly perpendicularly from the water. Mount
Ananance, the one on the eastern shore, is nearly 2000 feet
in height ; the opposite one is not quite so high. The water
is of crystal clearness, cold, and well stocked with delicious
fish. There is no inlet ; the supply of water is furnished by
the small streams from the mountain sides. The outlet is at
the north end, and eventually reaches the St. Lawrence.
The view of the lake nnd mountains, from the hotel at the
south end, is said not to be surpassed in this mountain
region. The hotel is superbly kept by Mr. Bemis ; and the
lake trout, as served up by the wife and daughters of the
host, cannot fail to satisfy the most fastidious epicure.
As a retreat from the noise and dust of the city it seems
just the place. The Passumpsic Railway passes in Burke
within 5 or 6 miles of the hotel, and on each evening a
carriage leaves the station for the Lake. It makes a beautiful
trip from Montreal, thus : cars to Waterloo, stage to outlet,
steamer to Newport, cars again to Burke.
Leaving, with regret, our excellent host of the Willoughby
Lake House, Monday morning, June 27, our route took
us through a very hilly region, but for the first 6 or 8 miles
well cultivated ; soon, as we mount higher and higher, to
pass the last range that lay between us and the charming
11
1l
valley of the Connecticut, the region grows wild and pictu-
resque in the extreme. Now crossing the verge of a
mountain, giving us extensive and beautiful views, and then
buried in the deepest gloom of the forest. Now our buggy
bounding over rocks and stones of the hill-top, aiid then over
the lo-s^and ruts of the deep, dark ravines ; but '' our noble
steed "bears us safely on," and our buggy miraculously
sustains the war between wheels, rocks and logs. Some idea
of the desolation of the region may be inferred from the fact
that for 30 miles no liouae for the " accommodation of man and
beast" is to be found ; but wc dined at a mountain rill on
lunch furnished us by the hostess of the Willoughby Lake
House, and our horse nibbled a acanty " baiting " among the
bushes.
As we emerged fvom the forest on the easterly side of
the mountains, forming the western barrier of the Connecti-
cut valley, a glorious view burst upon us. The night before
had been rainy and the day misty, but now the clouds left
the mountains, and the descending sun formed a golden light
on the Connecticut valley, and lit up the hills on the oppo-
site side of the river and the distant White Mountains of
New Hampshire with such delicate tints and fine lights and
shadows that it formed the most delightful landscape it had
ever been our lot to witness.
We stopped over night at Lancaster, N. H., a beautiful
villa'^e. It has several nice churches, a monster hotel, and
is one of the stopping places of White Mountain tourists :
the approach to them by Lancaster and Jefferson is equal, if
not superior, to that of any other of the numerous routes, but
much less frequented in consequence of its requiring more
staging. The distance from Lancaster to Gorham is 24
miles. ° Portions of the Franconia range are in full view a
part of the way, and the Mount Washington range nearly
the entire trip. From the Waumbec House, Jefferson Hill,
kept by Mr. Plaistead, (vide Anthony Trollope,) is obtained
the grandest view of tlie Groou ^vlountains of Vermont, but
as it happened to bo very smoky, the view to us Avas much
obscured, and Mr. Plaistcad's large telescope, by which fine
views of parties climbing the cone of Mount Washington can
be liad, was of no use to us. In tlie afternoon we rode from
Jefferson to Gorham, and the smoke disapi)caring somewhat,
we had very good views of the northerly side of the Mount
Washington range.
Gorham, N. II., n fair specimen of a New England village,
situated on the Androscoggin River, contains two churches,
two hotels, one very large, and the other of more moderate
pretensions : the business of both is principally to accommodate
the travel caused by the attraction to the mountains. The
railway from Portland to Montreal, in following the valley
of the Androscoggin, passes through the village, and forms
the nearest railway approach to the White Mountains.
Berlin Falls are 6 miles from Gorham, and the drive along
the banks of the Androscoggin discloses some fine mountain
and river scenery. On the east bank of the river they
almost seem to overhang the stream, and are covered from
base to summit with a dense growth of forest trees of a very
deep rich green ; the wide majestic flow of the river at some
points, and the rapid, tumultuous movement of it at others,
add much to the beauty of the scene. At the falls the
large river is confined to a narrow granite pass, through
which the water rushes down a series of short falls boilins;
and foaming Avith intensosfc fury. From afoot-bridge, thrown
across immediately over the foil, a fine view of them is to be
had, as well as from a projecting mossy bank below. The
return down the river to Gorham is grand ; Mounts Madison
and Adams on the right, and Mount ilayes on tlie left, with
the river apparently running to and under their very base,
form a view really sublime.
Our next drive was down the river to " Lead Mine Bridge,"
four miles from Gorham, where there are several islands of
Jt
great beauty, the meadows of rich green, and the view of
Mount Madison from the bridge is superior to any single
mountain view in the region, as its Avholo form is to be seen
from base to crown, towering up 5,400 feet, the focal distance
also being right to give its size and height the full effect.
The ascent of Mount Washington (the highest of the White
Mountain group, 6,285 feet) is now principally made from
the " Glen" by the carriage road. Starting from Gorham
after breakfast, in a light waggon with two sturdy ponies,
we reach the Glen (8 miles) by a good road. As a sort of
" side show" we visit the Garnet Pool, a beautiful reservoir
among the rocks of the Pcabody River. There are many of
these pools on all the streams that flow from the mountains,
which are very attractive from the crystal clearness of the
water and tlie curiously worn appearance of the rocks.
The Glen House is a very large, fine-looking hotel, situated
at the very base of Mount Washington, but, being in haste to
make the ascent, Avhile the weather is favourable, we do not
stop. The road is a feat of engineering skill, and it cost a
" heap" of money, and entails heavy expense to keep it in
repair, the means for so doing being furnished by tolls,
amounting on three persons, buggy and two horses, to 13.36.,
The grade is very uniform, being from 12 to 18 feet in tlie
100, and the road is eight miles in length. A short distance
from the Glen House we leave the road to Jackson and cross
the Peabody River, in its present low stage and high altitude,
a mere mountain brook, and strike into the forest and com-
mence the ascent at the same time, — it goes quite pleasantly
for a time, but now it seems as though we ought to have a
little "down hill," or at least a short level ; but no ! up, up
we go, stopping occasionally to give our puffing ponies a
short respite ; the heat is intense, the unclouded sun shining
directly on our heads, and any movement of the air about
the mountain is kept from us by the dense forest with which
we are surrounded for the first three or four miles. Now
8
and then we stop to drink of the delicious ico-cold water
that comc3 musiciilly down the mountain side. At length,
after a two hours' pull, wo emerge from the forest at the
*' Ledge," where there are a house and harn ; the old bridle
path here crosses the carriage road, and the telegraph wire
leaves the road and takes a more direct route over the rocks
towards the summit. The glories of the ascent now begin as
we round the ledge ; on our right is a deep, deep ravine, or
as it is sometimes called" Tlio Gulph," down which one almost
fears to look ; then across it riso the burly, enormous, but
still beautiful forms of Mounts Clay, Jefferson, Adams, and
Madison— their sides dotted with patches of snow, furrowed
with deep, dark ravines, and huge scars and scratches,
caused by descending rocks and slides ; but all harmonized
by the sunlight and shadow, cast by a few fleeting clouds,
and forming an intensely beautiful and sublime view. On
the loft, towering up still far above us, rises the rocky cone
of Mount Washington, the road winding above us, on which
occasionally a team could be seen slowly creeping, like our-
selves, towards the summit.
Just before reaching the top, and quite near the old bridle
path, we arc shown a pile of stones, indicating the spot where
Miss Bourne died near midnight in September, 1855. Her
uncle, cousin, and herself had started in the afternoon without
a guide, to walk to the summit ; darkness and fog overtook
them, and the young lady, utterly exhausted and benumbed ,
with cold, died among the rocks, within a few rods of the
house of which they were vainly in search.
The prospect from the summit of Mount Washington, on a
clear day, is said to be one to be remembered for a life-time ;
but for us, on account of the smoky state of the atmosphere,
it did not equal or compare with the ascending views. The
air is chilly, and overcoats are quite necessary, although the
heat was oppressive in the glen below.
The descent is made in about half the time of the ascent,
9
and the views ai atncs are snporh ; the White Glen TTouflo,
and tlio valley of the Poahody Uivor, form a very ijleasiu;^
sight.
July 1st. — Early wo gathered our '* traps," packed onr
hng^gy and left Gorhain. Our route, for 8 mi'o^, wiis the game
we travelled in goiii;^; to the base of Mount Washington, ou
what is calleil the Glen Road. The mornin-j; was pleasant
and the road good. We make o\ir first halt ahout 1 ! mik<3
from Gorham, where the guide-hoard informs us that the
Crystal Cascade is to he found. Fastening onr horse by the
road-side, we strike into the forest by a well-beaten but
steep and rugged path, and after about 20 miiuKcs of brisk
walking we reach the fall. The volume of wa er is small,
(smaller still at this time, in consecpience of the drouth).
The descent of the water is about 80 feet, and is very justly
regarded as one of the most exciuisitc and lovely of water-
falls ; the impression made by a view of it is altogether one
of grace and beauty. After lingering as long as possilde,
often halting to take a last look, and listening to the tailing
waters, we retraced our steps,— their music gradually
decreasing as we reluctantly left the fairy water-fall.
About a mile further on, we again leave our team, and by
a five minutes' walk in the woods, catch the deep, bass sound
of the Glen Ellis Falls, and in about ten minutes more reach
them. The first view, if taken from a bank that overhangs
the stream, (100 feet below), is startling and grand; the
volume of water is much larger than that at the Crystal
Cascade ; the height of the fall is about the same, but GO
feet of it is nearly perpendicular. The scene around is one
of remarkable wildncss and grandeur, leaving upon the
beholder more an impression of awe and wonder than of the
pleasure and delight experienced by a visit to the Crystal
Cascade.
After four or five miles of travel through dense forests,
10
^-ith occasional views of the mountains on f ther side ^-e
hail with pleasure tl.e cleared lands and n.tervales of the Ellis
River Tic first farm-house is much visited by artists and
others who delight in the wildness of the scenery and the
n^ Itain fare. To this location Joseph Pinkham removed
from the lower part of the State in 1790; the family came
up over the snow, five feet deep, with all their household
Ids on a hand-sled, and their log-cabin, (built the previous
Ltumn,) wr.3 fcand almost, covered with snow One ot the
sons of this family constructed the notch road, and gave it
his name, " Pinldiam Notch." A few miles more brings us
plain evidence of returning civilization, m the view ot he
white spire of . neat little village church at Jackson Fals ;
it beloncrs to the Baptists, ani the society was founded mtlus
wild region as early as 1803. This is one .f the most cele-
brated trout districts of the mountains, as the Ellis and Wild
Cat Rivers furnish abundant stores for the crowu of devotees
of the piscatorial art, who fish here every season. ^
The falls of the Wild Cat River are well worth a visit; the
water for a long distance comes tumbling over rock after
rock until it finally turns a romantic-lookmg old mill, and
after a few more leaps, leads a more quiet life among the
intervales. .
Soon after leaving Jackson we have a view of the moun-
tains, which, for massiveness and grandeur, is said not to be
surpassed by views from any other point, and is one much
studied bv artists. .
The road now takes us in a westerly direction up the
valley of the Saco ; and we pass some very fine farms and
beautiful intervales, but closely hedged in by the huge lulls
By looking back we get a good view of the lofty and graceful
Kearsar^re, * —not the victorious war-steamer, but the moun-
tain,-and on thej;er3^mmit (_B,400^eeO wc_can pla^^^^^
"^T^wTui^vious to the above being written, the Jlabama was
v,inciui6hed by the U. S. ship of war Keursarge.
11
see the ruins of a large hotel, erected some years since but
not long occupied ; it has been twice struck by lightning.
This being one of the finest days since our arrival among
the mountains, added very much to the pleasure of our after-
noon ride. The distant mountainr: were robed in their richcLt
purple and deepest blue ; the hills near by with their dark,
rich foliage of green ; the sparkling Avaters of the Saco and
its cryscal tributaries; and the ever-changing views brought
out by the windings of the road ; — all combined to render
our drive very pleasant.
Toward evening we arrive at Stilling's Hotel — a house of
modest pretensions, but justly celebrated for its good fare
and reasonable charges — where the nicely-cooked trout were
quite acceptable to our mountain appetites.
July 2nd.— On arising this morning, we perceived plain
indications that what had long been looked and wished for in
this region was about to come, namely, a good rain ; the
grass in many places having been literally dried to a crisp,
and vegetation of every kind suffering from the drouth.
A new phase of mountain beauty now presented itself.
Heavy masses of misty clouds, not quite ready to part with
their precious storei so ardently craved for by the thirsty
earth, went sweeping along the mountain tops — anon, rolling
far down their sides, sometimes slowly, then swiftly, with an
ever changing and endless variety of form and shape. Soon
they begin to part with their valuable burthen, gently at
first, now ceasing altogether, then a little more, as if playing
with the parched and thirsty ground. But at length it
settles down to steady pouring rain, to the great delight of
our landlord in the prospective fall in the price of hay and
oats, an important item in this locality, where such a large
number of horses are required for Lhe accommodation of the
great crowd of tourists that visit the White Mountains during
the months of July, August and September. As yet the
1»r
'1 s
I
i
12
fint rippk only is soon of fte groat ,vavo that uill foUow after
tl "4th of July," tho porioaical dato at .Inch Saratoga,
N „,ara,Nowp„rUc.,recoivoth.ira„n«alsupplyofp^asnr -
sc.ekors sharpers and invalhls, with a small spnnUlmg of
d^Stnon, altists, editors, and real lovers ot fine scenery
"trr:;. movoments .ere out of the ,ucstion t.day
,ve oecupied the time in writing and readmg. In a B s on
paper, we learned for the first time, ot the awful rad.oad
dtast r at Beteil, and the aecount confined to a tow hues,
r we wished for a few num'ocrs of the in7„c., no havux?
eel I Canada paper since leaving Lome ! Our host ahvay
.avin- lived in this region, and being a descendant ot tlu.
earlv "settlors, gave «s much interesting information concern-
r'^e e y lUry of this portion of the White Mountan.^
Several of the neigLuring fanners dropped n, to hear and
Cuss the latest war news, and learning that I was from
Canada, (with their native curiosity,) ma e - - ,mrur es
about the Govennnent, laws and prospects o the 1 ovmce
Here, as at other places, many expressed a desn^, and some
their actual intention, to remove to Canada, the ,;nne,pa
.eason being, I think, to avo.d the excess.ve '-- -P -^
to meet the expenses of the war. There was httle or no
t n^.g, and dming our trip thus far I have not seen an
■ Sxicft'ed person ^it is said t';- ^^ »-" '"'I.rmor
so, it is out of sight, and the llan,e Law, >l nothn.r mor ,
prevents that disgusting sight so often seen u. and ab «t
country tavo-ns, a reeling drunkard. Perhaps m h
ll,,„„/„s ever is sold to, and used by the (»»;l-» ' W
sober class, but the Maine Liquor Law keeps u, n, a g eat
measure, from tl>e ""-J-'l"""-'*''™^' '»".''^-^';"""f;'''* f
drh.kers, as when sold to them, the seller ,s quite olten made
t„ sutler the penalty of the law.
18
July 4tit. — A fine moniing after the rain of Saturday,
which has given the foliage a fresh tinge of deep green, and
vegetation -enerally a greatly improved appearance. After
an°early breakfast, we bid our pleasant landlord good bye
and take our way towards, and through, the oldest and most
celebrated of the three mountain passes, called the Crawford
(or sometimes the Willey) " Notch," not particularly on
account of the scenery being more interesting than that of
the other passes, but in consetiuence of the tragic fate of the
Willey family, and being the scene of the many privations
and hardships of the early settlers of this wild and inhospi-
table re "-ion ; giving the pass a romantic and melancholy
interest,°not felt in visiting the Pinkham Notch, or the pass
through the Franconia Range.
After going about five miles, the most of the distance
through a dense forest, in many places the trees covering the
road and meeting overhead, we pass the place where lived
Abel Crawford, the "veteran pilot" of the hills. lie, in
1819, assisted by his son, cut the first rough path through
the forest to the rocky ridge of Mount Washington ; he must
have been a very hale and hearty old man, as when 75
years old, in 1840, he rode the first horse that climbed to
the top of Mount Washington. Ethan Crawford, son of the
preceding, lived at the north end of the Notch road, about
twelve mUes from his lather's place ; he was a very remark-
able man, of iron nerve and constitution. He never wore
hat, shoes or mittens until after he was 13 years old, but
used to harness and unharness horses in winter without either,
not complaining of the cold as he said " he was used to it."
He grew to be seven feet in height, and had the strength of
two or three ordinary men, exemplified in muzzling and bring-
ing home from the woods a full-grown live bear ; climbing
Mount Washington laden lilco a horse, and quite often carry-
ing some exhausted member of a party on his back ; carry-
in° the mails both in winter and summer, when all other
Hi
'M
! i
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14
roeans of getting them along failed, in consequence of deep
snows or "great fresliets. The most savage animals of the
mountains were the wild-cats, which destroyed the sheep and
other animals of the settlers to a large extent ; they denned
mostly on the hills that border the Ammonoosuc River; and
Ethan, by his prowess and skill as a hunter, nearly annihi-
lated the whole tribe. Once having driven one into a tree,
he kept him there until he twisted a birch-withe, made a lasso
of it, threw it around the animal's neck, jerked him to the
ground, a)id after a desperate encovmter, killed him. Ethan's
company did not always consist of bears and wild-cats, as it
would smnctimes happen that on returning from an encoun-
ter with a bear he would meet some judge or member of
Congress desiring his services as gu'de. Ho once escwtod
DanTel Webster to the summit of Mount Washington. Ethan
reported that on arriving at the summit, he made something
like the following addri'ss :— " Mount Washington, I have
come a long distance to see you, have toiled hard to reach
your summit, and now you give mo a <^old reception."
Probably the stand was the liighcst and grandest ever occu-
pied by the great orator, and the audience the smallest he
ever addressed. At this time Ethan kept a small public-
house ; but as the visitors to the momitains increased, other
and finer houses were built, that took his custom away. The
failure of a bargain for the sale of his lands, and the burmng
of his house, pressed heavily upon him, and he removed to
Vermont; but his bad fortune followed him there, and he
returned to his native hills. During all his troubles his
cheerful, pious, and uncomplaining wife, Lucy, cheered the
toilsome, dreary afternoon of his hfe. He died at the earl y
age of 56.
" Mfiny baralets soiiglit I then,
Many forms of inoiiiitain men ;
Found I not a minstrel sied,
But men of bone, and good at need
15
Rallying round a parish steeple
Nestle wurm the Highland people,
Coarse and boisterous, yet mild,
Strong as giant, slow as child."
As we get a little farther on, Mount Crawford and the
Giant's Stairs on the riglit, rear their lofty heads over 3,000
feet. The road, after crossing the Saco twice, turns a little
to the West. As originally made, it crossed the river 3*2
times in less than 20 miles. The present road was made by
an incorporated company, and cost $40,000.
After passing through a dense growth of white birches,
the Notch bursts upon our view in all its grandeur and
majesty. To the right, towering up 2,0'iC feet of almost
perpendicular rock, is the frowning Mount Webster ; on the
left, the lofty Mount Willey, with plain evidence of the awful
slides that have rushed down its steep and rocky sides ;
while a-head, appears the crest of Mount Willard in the mid-
dle of the back-ground,— forming together a most startling
and sublime view.
As we proceed, the road passes directly over the dehru
of one of the slides, and brings vividly to our mind the
awful fate of the Willey family. We now come in sight of
the " Willey House." It was erected by a Mr. Hill in 1820,
as an inn, Avhich he occupied for two or three years. In
1825 the Willey family moved into it. The next June there
was a slide from the mountain, near the house, but did no
material damage ; after this there was a long drouth ; but
on Sunday, the 27th of August, 1826, the rain began to
fall ; the next day the storm grew more severe ; towards
ni the Loston, Concord and Montreal Railway. It
is thais A>.L \.H the great avenues of approach to the White
28
Mountains; is eleven miles from the Prolilo House, in the
Franconia Notch, vnxd "11 miles from the (Jrawfonl House,
in the Crawford Notch. It is (juite a resort as a stoppin;^-
place for tourists i u* a few days, as beautiful views of both
the White and Green Mountains are to bo beheld from hills
of easy access from the villa;^e. The hotel accommodations
are good, but the char^jes higher than wo have usually found
them on our trip.
This morning we take a n ):th-wosterly course through a well
cultivated district, and after four or five miles travel, reach
the Connecticut River, which Ave cross, and find ourselves
in the State of Vermont again, some fifteen or twenty miles
below Lancaster, where we crossed the river in "oinir to
the White Mountain region. As we get on higher ground, wo
have a fine view of the intervales and meadows, which seem,
at all points, to line the shores of this river. We now
pass through a fine undulating tract, some ])ortion.s being
rather stony and rough, but on the whole good grazing land,
the road rather pleasantly alternating between hill and dale,
occasionally following a beautiful little stream ot clear water
and passing fine little lakes or ponds. About noon wo
arrived at St. Johnsbury, the largest and finest village in this
section of the State of Vermont, which owes its prosi)erity
principally to the enterprise and ability of the Brothci-s
Fairbanks, manufacturers of scales of great variety of size
and form, from the tiniest and most delicate to those used
for weighing railway cars and canal boats. It was principally
through their exertions that the Passumpsic Railway was
constructed to and beyond St. Johnsbury. Tiiere are some
very fine dwellings, with nice grounds beautifully adorned
with fountains, flowers and shrubbery, conspicuous among
which are those of the Messrs. Fairbanks. The churches
and school-houses are also nice and good-looking buildings for
a country village. The farms in the vicinity of the village
look fine and well cultivated, the extensive manufacturing
: i
I
24
establishment of the Fairbanks furnishing a home market, which
is a great advantage to the farmers ; and no stare or country
can ever be truly prosperous unless a hirge portion of the
raw products are consumed by manufacturing industry not
far from the place of production.
Our afternoon }-ido was through a hilly region, gradually
risin"- as we were near the water-shed that divides the State
into two great slopes, to the east, towards the Connecticut
River, west, to Lake Chainplain. The first village we pass
is Danville, which has quite an old look for a Vormo!it
village ; it was formerly the county town, but the removal
to its more prosperous rival, St. Johnsbiu-y, of the county
business may account for the rather " seedy" appearance
of the place. We continue on in a westerly direction, and as
we rise get some nice views of the Green Mountains. The
country grows wilder, but the roads are good, and we pass in
succession a chain of some four or five beautiful ponds ; soon
after we meet a party of happy looking folks, young and
old, with flags and banners flying, returning from a Tem-
perance pic-nic. The road, though hilly and rough, is good,
considering that we are crossing the Green Mountain range,
and cultivnted lands line the way, even at the highest points.
At the head waters of the Lamoile River we commence the
descent to the west. In the township of Walden we stop for
the night at a half-hotel, half-farm house, but got a good
Supper, to Avhich our appetites did ample justice.
July 7tii.— The morning was fine on the hills, but along the
river, where our route lay, a dense fog enveloped us for the
first four or five miles ; the rising sun, however, soon dispersed
it, and we pass through one of the richest farming districts of
Vermont. In following down the Lamoile River, we find the
crops excellent, farm-houses and out-buildings good, all pre-
senting a general thrift and comfort that gives the traveller a
very favourable impression, more particularly as it appeared
25
to be imiform anrl o;enornl, find wo notlcorl the ut as we did not come to sec, or expect to find,
architectural wonders, we were not disappointed.
After dinner we first climb the hill in the rear of the
house on the south side of the river. The view up or
down is not very extensive ; but to tlie north (oppo>Ue)
a short distance from the river, the land vho^. First are
hills well-cultivated, with buildings here and there, and
fine groves of maples. But towering up in the extreme
back-ground, its top capjied by a white cloud, is Sutton
Mountain, densely covered from base to crown with a lux-
I
- 'f
28
uriant growth of forest trees, giving grandeur and even
siil)linrity to the scene before us. As we \vish to ascend
tlie liills ojiposi'e this afternoon, we hasten down, and the
landlord " sets" us a'^-oss the river, and, after crossing the
intervale, we ascend to tlie north. When well up, the
view to tlie east on the south side of the river is superb^
in the distance backed up by the lofty head of Laid Moun-
tain.' We rest our somewhat tired limbs by lolling on the
rich clean grass, inhaling the delicious mountain air, watching
the shadows cast by the passing clouds over valley, hill,
and mountain, until the declining smi warns us that it is
time to return, regretting that the afternoon is so short.
After a nnrcshing night's sleep we awake to find the
morning somewhat cloudy, and the hills and mountains
wreathed in mist (there having been rain during the night) ;
but the rising sun soon dispels it, and gives promise of
another fine day. After the dampness has disappeared
from the grass and bushes, we go up the river a half-mile or
so, and ascend a high hill on our right. Opposite is the
Monarch of the Glen, (Sutton Mountain), surrounded by
his subjects, looking, if possible, grander and more beauti-
ful tiian yesterday ; while, to the east, the valley is visible for
a long distance, parted by the ^ inding river shining in the
fine light like a broad riband of silver, and bordered by
cultivated lands rising like an amjihitheatre, until they reach
the base of the higher hills and mountains, which, as they
now a[)[)ear of a dai-k rich green, make a back-ground of
matchless beauty; and, as a crown to the whole, at the
east. Owl's Head shows his lofty, rugged crest above the
distant hills. The reverie into which we had fallen in
contem[,]ating the grandeur and beauty of the scene, was
suddenly broken by the flight (close overhead) of a flock
of partridges, started by the dog, and our companion from
far below signalled that it was time to return, and with
great reluctance we left " Prosj)ect Hill."
29
After dinner, we tal ' we hope
will be the case.
The beauties of Memphremagog have been so often set
forth by able pens, that we shall not attempt it, but introduce
the reader at once to the Owl's Head Mountain House (kept
by Mr. Jennings), most romantically situated on a little
'plateau between the base of the mountain and the lake.
00
f
1'-
III
and where the visitor can fish, hnnt, row, climb, quench
his thirst with tlie finest water in the world, and, if an
epicure, can feast at the " House" on all the "delicacies
of the season."
Our ascent of the mountain was not made under very
favourable circumstances ; a gentleman from New York ac-
companied us ; we had no guide, but plenty of rain. In a
dry time it is not difficult, and, by takiu"; time, can be
accomplished by ladies of ordinary health and strength.
Just before arriving at the top, the shower passed off, and
as we reached its rocky crest, the sun shone out with
great l)riUiancy, lighting up lake and mountain, hill and
dale, and gave us the immense prospect in great perfec-
tion. The sun and wind soon dried our wet clothes, and after
an hour's rest and enjoyment we returned with a keen
appetite for dinner.
On the morning of the 26th we take our buggy again, and
find a very interesting drive from Newport to Georgcville)
passing through Derby and Stanstead. Just before arriving
at the latter place, the views of Owd's Head, Sugar Loaf, and
other mountains on the west side of the lake, are very fine,
and to the north, that of Orford, not less so. In passing
from Stanstead to Georgevillo, after crossing a small arm of
the lake, we climb a high hill, up wliich we walk to relieve our
tired steed, but as we rise, the extensive view to the east
amply rewards us, as there lies in that direction an extensive
tract of the finest cultivated lands in Canada East, dotted
here and there with villages, groves, and small patches of
forest lands, and bounded in the distance by hills and moun-
tains. Soon after <2;ettin2; over the crest of the hill, and
commencing the descent, we come in sight of the lake and the
village of Georgcville, and on arriving at the Camperdown
House, find it well filled with guests, mostly from Montreal,
v;ho appeared to be thoroughly enjoying the boating, fishing,
and beautiful scenery of the lake.
33
27x11. — The morning is warm, but clear, and after break-
fast ^et ready for crossing tlio lake to the Western slion; ;
about half-past nine we luMr the Avhistlo of the ''Mountain
Maid ;" all is bustle and commotion. As licr stops are to bo
short we hasten to the wharf; she is soon alongside, wel
freighted this morning with tourists making the " round" trip.
AVe soon get on board, but do not start; the delay is rather
vexatious to us, it recpiiring our utmost exertions to sootlio
and allay the fears of our frightened steed, 'which docs not
seem to hke the idea of a steamboat ride, and not at all to
relish the music of the whistle, the escaping steam, and general
noise and din on board. The arrival of a stage waggon and
horses on the dock explains the cause of delay, it had been
ordered after the arrival of the boat to convey a party of
Poston gentlemen from the landing on the west shore (Knowl-
ton'a) to examine a copper mine, with the intention of
purchasing if the examination should prove satisfactory. After
still another delay, caused by trouble with the engine, we get
off, and as we leave the little bay, the fine breeze from up tlie
lake cools us nicely and puts all in good humour, quadrupeds
as well as bipeds.
In our trip we have made almost the ont'iL-e circuit of the
Owl's Head; but the view of that mountain from the steamer
at this crossing is altogether the finest we have luxd. Ele-
phantis [Sugar Loaf] also shows his burly form to great
advantage. To the north also the prospect is beautiful, bound-
ed by the highest of the lake mountains [Orford] ; and no
visitor to this region should fail to make the crossing from
Georgevillc to Knowlton a part of his torn-. Alti'r six miles'
travel we find ourselves in the " Bolton Pass," and stop at a
pleasant country inn, from which we expect to have some fine
excursions among the mountains.
E
!l
A TRIP TO TtlE ST. MAURICE.
On a most lovely ovcning in July w- find onrselvea on
boara the steamer " Quebec," and on receiving tlie passengers
from the Upper Canada boat, a little after 7 o'clock, wo
leave the wharf at Montreal ; the city, the river, and the island,
presenting more than their usual beauty ; the air so balmy and
delicious, just warm enough. Seated outside the saloon, what
can be more delightful, than with a couple of friends to enjoy
the setting sun, and admire the brilliant tinge imparted by it
to the sky and clouds, and to see them reflected in the mir-
ror-like surface of the noble St. Lawrence ? As the evening
shadows come on, the full moon gives us her silvery light,
furnishhig a scene not less beautiful tlian that of the setting
sun. 'ihe summons to tea reminds us that man needs some-
thing besides moonlight, however fine that may be, in this
mun°lane sphere. Just at dark we make the landing at the
old town of Sorel, after which we go inside the saloon, and
lounge on the luxurious seats and listen to music from the
piano. As the evening wears away, the passengers gradu-
ally retire to their state-rooms, until the saloon is deserted by
all but a few, who like ourselves, intend to land at Three
Rivers, where we arrive about 1 o'clock, A.M., and find very
nice and comfortable quarters at Farmers' Hotel.
Three Rivers is beautifully situated on the north shore of
the St. Lawrence, a short distance below Lake St. Peter, at
the mouth of the St. Maurice, and is one of the oldest settled
places of Lower Canada. The town has suffered very much
from two great fires, within the last eight or ten years, and
it has not yet entirely recovered from the effects of them.
Many persons intimately connected with the politics and
public affairs of Canada have been, and are, residents of this
35
place. We were introduced to, and had a most intorosting
conversation with, ShorilT 0;j;don, whose name and family are
identified with the history of Cana(h\ ; ho is now a very ajj;cd
man and (jnitc infirm in body, but his intellect is bri<^1it and
clear, and his talk on the topics of the day and the politics
of Canada, as he slowly showed us throu;i;li his -garden and
grounds, was hi^^hly entertaining', more particularly as it was
interspersed by appropriate anecdotes and reminiscences.
Speaking of the warm weather, he said that he was in India
at a time when the thermometer marked 115 degrees in the
coolest spot it could bo placed, and that they could only
preserve a tolerable degree of comfort, and perhaps their
lives, by keeiiing their heads and portions of their bodies
swathed in wet linen. He is a man of most benevolent
heart and liberality, as he has had a good income, is a frugal
liver, but has not accumulated a fortune. We parted from
the kindly old man with much regret.
Three Rivers is the focus of great lumbering operations,
the head waters of the St. Maurice furnishiug unlimited
quantities of excellent pine, wliich is very extensively manu-
factured at Ward's and Baptiste's mills here, into deals,
planks, boards, and smaller shapes to suit the market for
which it is intended. The mills arc run day and night, Mr.
Ward furnishing employment for about 120 men. The logs
are drawn from the river into the upper storey of the mill,
where they are sawn by gangs of upright saws into the larger
shapes ; the planks and boards are loaded on tram-ways and
easily drawn to the yard for ])iling, or to the vessels lying
below to be dispatclied to South America, West Indies, and
many portions of the United States. The slabs, imperfect
and broken pieces, l^c, are passed to the lower story, where
they are seized upon by men and boys and immediately
consigned to circular saws, where tliey are ripped and torn
into lathes, fence pickets, door panels. &c., with a rapidity
truly astonishing, the valuable portions being carted to the
86
yard to bo stored, and the rofuso taken to the firoa to n;eno-
rate the steain tluit furnishes the motive power, no other fuel
being veciuirod.
Our nltiinato (h>.stination being the falls of Shawanegan,
(pronounced, Shaw-ne-gan, accent rn tl>e last sylhible) about
twenty-five or tliirty nrde^ from Tlirec Uivers up tlie St.
:Mauricc, wo get an early start and jog along through sandy
roads, and eonscrpiently i)oor fanning lands, for eiglit miles,
and reach the St. Maurice Forges. This region is very
cv lebrated for its inunensc deposits of l)og iron ore. It is
wrought at dilToront jilaccs. but this is much the oldest, the
fiirges liaving been originally put in operation ]>y the French
Government during the reign of Louis XIV. The old
stone house built and occn,)ied l»y tlio French governors is
still in use by the present proprietor of the forges, John
J\[cDougal1, Esfi., and is supposed to be cue of tlie oldest (if
not the oldest) houses in Canada. It is ;iot, liowevcr, exactly
known how long the forges have been in operation, but a
fire-plate i,t the house, cast here, bears the date 17 ')2. It is
here that t'ae well-known Three River stoves are made. The
fpiality of the iron, gre:;t strength and hardness, makes it of
•n-eat value in the niaimfacturc of railroad car Avhcels,
large numbers of which are made liere ; bar iron is also
made of so good a quality that it is used in the manufacture
of scythes, its hai'dness and conserpient stiftiiess, rendering
it pecidiarly well littod for that purpose. We wore shown
through the works by the gentlemanly i)roprictor, who lias
introduced many improvements since the time when they
were carried on by the late Mr. r.(>ll. who used to get fifty
or sixty dollars each ior stoves such as are now sold for
from twelve to fiffeen dollars.
P)Ut we liave twenty miles more sandy travel ere we reach
the falls, and nmst not delay : the crops are inferior along
the way, and wo in )et I)ut few " teams ;" what we do, are
cart-luuds of ore on then- way to the forges ; it is prucured
87
Tvitliout (VuTioulty, an ;^onornlly hj rcmovlnj.' a few inches or
feet of aaiitl. it isi on>'ily sliovclctl into tlic earts. Tlio scenery
is tanu' and in(UireiTnt, altlion^rh occasionally wo get-limpaos
of a flue ran^o of hills on the north aide of the river. We finally
come in si-ht of a church and small villa.ire, hut ere we reach
it, turn to the right, cross over two high hills through dense
■ forests, and tancy we hear the roar of the ['alls ; as we cme. go
from the woods a heautiful sheet of water lies hefore ns, and
we are at the termination of the road. It is a hay in the
river hcdow tlie falls whose roar we can hear, hut camiot see
them, as thry are hidden hy a densely wooded hill on the oppo-
site side of Ihe hay. There is hut one house here which is
occupied hy the Government agent, who very ohligingly took
carc! of our horses, furnished us a l)oat and three sturdy
Canadians who rowed us up and across the hay hctwecn one
and two miles. The day heing fine, the Avatcr clear and
sparkling, the dense forests dark and wild, the rock-hound
shores hold and frowning, the roar of the waters loud and
deep, the view of the hottom of the great i'alls, which now
comes in sight, gives us a sensation of awe and gi-andeur
seldom experienced, anu to be seen and felt, but not to be
described.
\Vo land on a fine sand beach, near the camp of men
employed in " driving" logs : toil up a hill, cross tiie top of
the ^' slides," (Jjuili by the Government at much expense to
pass logs by the falls) go through a little bush, emerge on a
rocky promontory, to fmd, above, in front and below us, the
raging, roaring, tumbling cataract of waters ; not the immense
flood '\)[' Niagara, but still a large body of waters, at one
point tossed high in air by striking some huge rock, then
leaping headlong in boiling masses of foam, down, down, to an
abyss more than one hundred feet below. Without much
difliculty we reach the bottom of the fall. Look up, see the
mightv flood of waters tearing, raging, thundering towards
you, in their wild and headlong course to the (p;iet bay below.
I »■
38
On the opposite side of the river and falls, and commanding
a fine view of them, are the ruins of n, large hotel commenced
and nearly completed by the late Mr. Turcotte (at the time
speaker of Ihe House) at a cost of not less than •il'20,000, now
fast going to decay. It seems surprising that anyone should
be sanguine enough to suppose that a " monster" hotel in a
place so difficult of access (however groat the attraction)
could be anything but a great expense to the owner.
We take our lunch amid the rocks, and satisfy our thirst
from the foaming cataract, and returning to the quiet waters
above the falls, cultivate a more intimate acquaintance Avith
the St. Maurice by having a swim in its clear cool waters.
Reluctantly we return down the hill to the boat, and have a
pleasant row back to the house ; settle our bill (a very
moderate one) and drive back to Three Rivers, where we
arrive about dark highly gratified with the trip ;. but to
thoroughly enjoy it, two or three days ought to be spent in
the vicinity of the falls. Among other attractions fine boat
excursions can be taken both a'^ovc and below the falls, to
which fishiny; and huntinuc can be added for those who like
the sport.
iii