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OttlBec to (Uiftgftta. * * * C^rougQ f0« •,f(ife5 of ®et» <^ortt. (»>eJB (gngfan^ to f afifw 1839. . WHITE, SulyLieutenant, R.N., U.M.9, "Pique," 1839. m\ ^m '■% (•) m (») (O^ « *' » » ?> "„^ t"o'-5- :,••• "•-':-- :i:'' « H SIS ,« » ff ,^'^ k :v^,. a » •"> i^j. ^4e «.'; »7j.«<,: .,., ;?. i' - ' ^' *'*»« \,^^0 ^* •^*^ ■ ■" ® m •* ® ® *« ® ® _^ % *' (« « (»)- i»; ® lOj f'o) (O m^ »; EXETER : WILUAM POLLABD & Co., PRINTEBS, 39 * 40, NOBTH STBOT. 1890. m :0' (O) @) i# I ) (•) ^ €) », I* ® ® ® (S^ W ®* S) i»; ® % ^ « .1^ ® 1 ® i i*/ as ^# k»' 9 * (•) '^J ;*; '» (#) (o) .•^«' '* ,'^ * © ©I # # -^'ii ^ i. I (Tt) o 0: ■a # @ m S>'; 9: O; O' I ♦■ t (O) iO' © '"' ;) ( )• 9^ v«- "&' ^: Q o: Q^ -^ 'f%\ o ~'^ c. 10: L» ■£i ..^^Ifci^- ■c) (^5 C^) mt^^\ % '■ ^t^ rn^' ^c^. fa^ with wood in lieu of coal, used by steamers running op and down in this river. Our attention was attracted by the vile conduct of a French-Canadian, evidently very druuk, wishing to shew us a specimen of his manly courane by ti{?ht»ng with two women, said to be his sisters^ who, poor creatures, seemed most anxious to prevent him from getting into trouble. This only made him more outrageous, and stripping himself oi evervthing but his trousers, commenced fighting more vigorously until after sundry falls and several hruises he was led away by some men, a disgusting object, amidst the cheers of the surrounding crowd. We had on board as passengers a merchant of Mon- treal—Scotch by birth— a Devonshire man from Barnstaple, who had resided twenty years in Canada as a farmer, complaining bitterly of an insect that had for the last few years destroyed large quantities of wheat. They both gave us much information, especially the former, respecting this country and its produce: industry and sobriety he said are great means for raising agriculturists to comparative opulence. The other passengers were a mixture of English, Scotch and Irish settlers, principally employed as 1 imberers, that is during the winter months ; these men dwell in far- away forests, engaged in cutting down trees, which are placed in sleighs for transport to the nearest river as soon as the ice breaks up on the approach of summer They are then formed into rafts, and when completed with a few shanties erected thereon for these peculiar- looking labourers to take shelter in during their long voyage to the place of destination, either Montreal or Quebec. They start to be drifted by the current downwards aided by several small sails, when the wind is fair, hoisted on slender masts, which give these rafts a novel and peculiar appearance. It takes two or three months to accomplish this long voyage, often exposed to heavy storms on the St. Lawrence, so that at this fe-^ (■"-) n NM=^ E2I ning op acted by biy very s manly D be his xioui) to [lis only imself of njr more il bruises r object, of Mon- m from 1 Canada that had otities of especially produce : iieans for ice. The Icotch and 3rers, that rell in far- which are it river as E summer, completed 5 peculiar- thcir long ontreal or 16 current a the wind these rafts vo or three en exposed hat at this I -^^^£2jS3LSmGiSt^l^- V3B5i. ® #^ ^-a time theriive a sort of amphibious life, too often addicted to strong liquors. We passed a peculiar mount on our left hand called "Belle.sle.' 30 miles inland belongiug to a French gentleman, with a large lake on its summit, and manufactories of sugar in its neighbourhood. It has a singular and marked appearance atanding alone in the midst of so much flat country. The day had been very fine, but towards evening the sky became overcast, assuming a threatening appearance, and soon afterwards a severe thunderstorm came on which drove us from the upper deck. At thiH time the steamer passed a cluster of small islands looking very pretty and picturesque, but the current was no strong against us that we made slow progr«» ; however we reached Montreal at 9.40 p.m. and landed *™My friend and myself proceeded at first to Griffith's Hotel close to the wharf, but not liking its appearance, we went to Oar's Hotel in N6tre Dame Street, which we found very clean and comfortable. Sunday (23rd) at 10 am. we went to the Koman Catholic Cathedral in Notre Dame Street, a large and imposing building, said to be the largest Church in Cauada. The interior was simple enough : fitted with galleries and pews, and towards the altar there were some Scriptural oil paintings, but on the whole far inferior in appearance to the gorgeous Roman Catholic Churches in Spain and Italy. Daring the service, which I hupposed was the performance of High Maas. a Friest passed from pew to pew offering the Sacramental Wafer to the various worshippers ; when he caine to us we both refused the proffered " petit morceau nauch to the surprise and disgust of the l-riest, who perhaps did not dream for one moment that we were ProtestantP, and my friend a Naval Chaplain. We went afterwards to the English Church dedioited to Christ. A neat building, a nice service, and filled «if O § r? O IP ''"'^ Pot' 3 O 3 „" #""» • • % # •# »^ ® with a respectable-looking congregation. A painting O^ '..5 • F „ ■ r^i.-c O o = " Or, '«' O c' As ■q o. ""? ' of the Lord's Supper stands over tlie Communion Table In the Afternoon we drove round the Mountain — so called in Montreal — but, in fact, it is only a slight elevation, which only in comparison to the low flat country around may be termed so. From its highest Joint the view is very extensive and beautiful, looking own on the city of Montreal, the river St. Lawrence, fr and adjacent country ; whilst nearer at hand there are green fields of wheat, apple orchards laden with fruit, and various species of tree.s^ gardens, &c., together with the balmy freshness of tlie air and neat-looking 5, cottages dotted about here and there made it a scene never to be forgotten. The city of Montreal is built on the westsideof the island, wateied by the junction of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence rivers, extending two or three miles along the banks of the lattei', and contains many fine buildings with a population of 40,000 inhabitants ; but the streets arejiarrow, and the houses are generally roofed with tin. We dined at the table d'h6te at 5 p.m., meeting among the guests a very facetious Irish l\i gentleman, who amused us much with his witty sayings and droll storie.«». At the same time he did not neglect making an exceedingly good dinner, aided with copious draughts of beer, &c. The Montreal people keep Sundays very strictlj'. So much so, that we found it impossible to procure tickets for places in the coach that was to start eaily the following morning, though as late as 7 p.m. We made another attempt later on at the booking oflBce, and after continued knockings at the door a sleepy-looking lad, evidently just turned out of bed divested of all clothing except a nighlgown, only responded to our appeal for tickets by saying he would do nothing on a Sunday, but advised us to call early next morning, to which we had to yield, o The charge per day at the Hotel was certainly moderate, only two dollars each : this provided us with °o ". 00 "", „-o;o „ 1 ^.. . . S.,ilo '^0' 1° ^' °' 0' c. c ° '-' .t ":J "> o "_ Slf^-t' o<;,J iO 0" ""o , Oo^O V-" C Q 1 Ot,o<= )3> ..°, " =.8 ^oo O 00 • » h # i « * tt< '• 1p »8» , , • ;*% ?,*"'*' painting lion Table I tain — 80 a slight low flat ts highest 1, looking Lawience, there are vith fruit, ther with it-looking t a scene s built on lion of the or three lins many labitants ; generally [idte at 5 ons Irish is witty 16 he did ler, aided eal people e found it the coach g, though 1 later on ickings at irned out ighlgown, laying he is to call certainly 1 us with ® -^ » ■0 ^ 1 \ ^ft';"--!Vv ^'■0.•^^•.:^>;>^. 'J ■0 ■o- breakfast, dinner, "t^AVatt'l" a bed-ifoom— of cofirse feeding at the table d'hote. 24th at S a.m., we left Montreal in a stage coach drawn liy four horses for Lachine nine mile.s distant, on a bright morning, and a refreshing breeze from N.W. The vehicle proceeded at a tolerable pace, passing through very pretty scenery until we reached Lachine (N.W. part of Montreal), where we embarked on board the steamer " Chieftain," to proceed 24 miles up the river to a village called Cascades, passing en route the embouchure of the ilcV'^*''^A*^*% Ottawa river, emptying itself into the St. Lawrence, which at this point is about half-a-mile wide and 26 feet in depth. At Cascades the steamer sLupped for the passengers to land as the rapids are too strong for some distance for the steamer to proceed farther ; but here stage coaches are in readiness to carry the passengers on the Cotu du Lac station, a di&tance of 16 miles. The road leads along by the banks of the river, so we had a capital view ot the numerous rapids rushing with great rapidity through narrow passages formed by groups of small islands, and rocks, interspersed here and there for many miles in extent. We passed several large rafts of timber floating down the river, at times shooting the foaming rapids with wonderful dexterity, the men employed in navigating them seemingly doing ao without fear or anxiety. The banks of the river are dotted with houses principally inhabited by French-Canadians, who are the only cultivators of the soil in their various localities. At Cotu du Lac ano':her steamer, the " Neptune," was in readiness to convey the passengers to another village called Cornwall, and in her we steamed along at a rapid pace with the water as smooth as glass, passing many handsome trees, especially the weeping elm, noted for its graceful pendant branches, and occa- sionally steaming between groups of small picturesque islands. As the evening approached, just before sunset. !b. '■^i^^:::^ ' r "'•a^% ■■■ ' '^D* y^ 9 • Vt4 . % oi' , "fi si ". -'.• " O? ^ ^ ;i .\, ""■I Oo ' "<*e ■•'•r^ ; . A- \ i.'-ov:/-!' ':-'■ •8 .•• ■•( , '•, *> r:-/ "< Wi '..■ '^« VC'"" 1' o (P ° ^3 CO "^ v--m Co ' O ' O Oo jo8 lo" „ o'a„o ^ » :-/v°'.°,' r ihe soenery on both sides of tlie river was lit up with the golden ravs of the sun. which added much to the loveliness of the scene we were passing through. At 8 pm. we landed from the steamer at Cornwall village, and travelling by Coach we reached Dickinson s landing at 11 p.m, and in the midst of heavy rain embarked on board the " Biockville," very tired and weary so were glad to turn in. Beds being provided for the passengers, placed on iedges one above the other Severalfeet high, suppoted by «o«ietning very like extensive scaflfolding. These tilled th« whole of the Saloon. During the night the steamer got underweigh to proceed up the river, touching en route at 1 reacott. Upper Canada, for a short time. It was there that m 1838 some Yankee rebels occupied a windmill and some houses (Canada side) in an attempt to destroy Prescott, but were overcome by onr troops. 25th, at 9.40, a.m. our steamer had to cross the river from Prescott to Ogdensburgh on the Yankee side, but before starting we had to land a party of Militiamen, kept on board to protect the mails, as our Yankee cousins do not permit foreign soldiers, English, or rather Canadian^ included, to approach their e.iUghleued shores. At Oedensburgh I landed with other passengers, and were shown the damage clone by a recent tire which had completely destroyed several houses. An Anaencan then took us to a refreshment shop, and treated us all round to glasses of a drink called " Contradiction an American speciality composed of a mixture of brandy, wine, and lemonade, not a bad beverage in hot weather. Our stay on shore was very short, as our steamer had to return to Prescott to re-embark the Militiamen, and then we proceeded on our voyage. At 12.30 p.m., Btopped at ii.ockville (Canada side) to fill up with wood for fuel, and after awhile we started ag»io. soon reaching that part of the St. Lawrence called 'The Thousand Islands," where the river widens consider- f .^JLJ^Sg^': ^ r.-;yx'«:«3i_ -■■: -1 ' •s-.'tll! 0' ■--'f i nrt'^T'-'^'-"'^*-''*'*'"'^'''''"''''' ' I,:;./ ' t>««ivi]>i!. up with :h to the gh. At 1 village, I landing in barked reary, so I for the le other rery like le of the derweigh Freaoott, e that in and some Prescott, }.40, a.m. rescott to i starting on board IB do not Canadians )res. At and were vhich had American ited UH all ictiuu " an >f brandy, t weather, ner had to lamen, and .2.30 p.m., I up with igain, soon lUed "The 8 consider* ablv and for a distance of 50 miles the steamer glided swSly along in very smooth water amidst a ^''^cession of ovely islands, and islets, almost at tunes touch ng one or L other, some large and some small wh,ch for picturesqueness baffles all desciipt.on ; the larger islan^ds being covered with large forest .trees, nnd the smaner ones with fir trees all glowing m the bright '" Thl "passengers were numerous and of yations grades. onl in'particular, an Irishman lately -Poj^-^^^ -- Dublin City, kept us in a constant roar ola^^^^^^^^^^ m relating his adventures, and penis, daagers. cVc in crS the Atlantic Ocean iu the voyage out from Zlauld Ireland, depicting in "ch ,^'-b ^J^^d ,0 horrors of a gale of wind, telling us the sup polled so heTvdy as to citrrv away the mainmast. Tins yarn I tol him 4as more than I could believe to have I'appejie.l unless she had rolled gunwale's urder water ; then he said "Ah' it might have been the maintop gallant- Slt't " We all laughed at the peculiar shape of his Tp saying it lookedlike a Yankee-built -tjcle. ".Och su?e if I thought so. I'd just haave it mto t^e «ea. The country continued to be low, and fla on both sides of the river, but the soil is said to produce good crops of wheat, &c., and k,ge forests abound in many ^'?L'"s[lamert"td at Kingston at the N,E. end of Lake OnUrio at 7.40 p.m., distant 210 miles fi-orn Montveal. On landing, my friend and myselt p.ooeeded to?he Mansion House Hotel, kept by an Italian lb seemed strange to me to meet one born in the sunny clfme of ItaW lingerinf- out his days in this changeable Sate On asking him how he liked Canada, found heTad nearly forgotten the " Cosi, Cod," so t«mi bar an answer to an ItaUan. The streets are wide bat bad y ^Z, and some of the houses have a comfortable appearance. "T^^S^CE^HCr^ 10 A small harbour for our Navy with a dockyard, and large buildings for naval stoies are situated near at liand, the whole being commanded by extensive fortifi- cations, and a fort on the hill commands the town. Before bedtime smoked the evening cigar, and then lurnpd in. Wednesday, 2Gth (.lune). Started on board the "Great Britiau " sttamer for Niagara. A upleudid vessel, with a saloon for gentlemen ICO It. long, nearly the whole length of the ship, and state cabins with sleeping berths on either side. The ladies saloon is on the deck above in the after part of the ship with a promenade on either side, called galleries. The engines aie fixed on each side of the vessel, with paddles, just before the ladies' saloon. This gives more room for passengers, &c , convenient bunkers for fuel, and extra cabin.s.. and the .space between formed an agreeable promenade The upper deck was large and capacious, with comfortable seats placed all round in every possible position. We found to our surprise that the domestics (both men and women) were really civil and oVfliging, not generally the case on board the Colonial or American steamers, or at the various hotels. We had many passengers on board, one in particular an old gentleman, a Baltimore merchant, who was introduced to my companion and myself by his brother. Major Farquharson of the 65th Regiment, quarteied at Kingston. Mr. Farquhaison had resided ia the United States above 40 years, and, thcugh a Scotchman by birth, had imbibed all the principles of a genuine demociatic Yankee. The Kingston people took it into their heads to think that he was an American General sent to spy out the nakedness of their land, much to his amuEement. At 3.10 p.m. we stopped at Oswego (American side) 70 miles from Kingston, a town of some importance, prettily situated on the banks of the river Oswego not far from the entrance. '1 ikyard, and ?d near at Bive foitifi- the town. and then Started on agaia. A leu 160 It. , and state The ladies of the ship sriea. The e.s8el, with gives more irs for fuel, formed an s large and 11 round in irprise that really civil board the ihe various I particular , who was his brother, |U arte led at the United >tchman by a genuine took it into an General id, much to at Oswego a town of )anks of the i ■m My friend and myself had a short time to spare, so we took a stroll through the town, but did not see anything in particular to attract one's aitention, though T happened to see a lady's veil on the ground, •which I picked up and thought it might belong to a very pretty Yankee lady who had passed that way, so I offered it to her, which she accepted, saying it was her t.roperty, and with a profusion of pretty smiles thanked me most heartily and prettily. At 5 p.m. the steamer got uuderweigh to resume our voyage, having received a large influx of passer gers (Americans). The water of Lake Ontario is good for drinking purposes, clear and cold, though in appearance assuming in the mass a greenish appearance. . This lake is about 160 miles long, by 30 to 60 m width abounding with excellent fish, such as sturgeon, pike, 'bass, herrings, &c., and like other inland lakes becomes very rough, with a short tumbling sea, in stormy weather, but soon subsides directly the wind moderates. These storms make the navigation of such lakes both unpleasant and dangerous at the time. Fortunately we had beautiful weather, and the surface of the lake was perfectly smooth and placid, except in our immediate wake, where a long line of the foamy track could be seen some distance astern, caused, by the propulsion of the peddles and speed of tha ship steaming ahead at the rate of 11 knots per hour. Towards evening a slight mist arose on the water, producing an extraordinary effect, a reddish hue on every object one beheld. Tuesday 27th.— The steamer reached Lewiston at 7 a.m., a village on the American side about 8 miles up the river Niagara, opposite to Queenstown (Canada side), near to which is a monument erected to the memory of General Brock who was killed there in repulsing the American troops in 1812. The scenery on either side of the river is very beautiful, with high perpendicular clitfs from 100 to 300 feet f' •mm ■^& high, clothed with vegetation, diversified with magnifi> •cent trees and rich foliage. The river at this point is ahout half-a-raile in width. It was raining heavily when we landed at Lewiston, therefore gladly jumpf d into a car (so-called by the Yankees) or rather serit j of cars diawn by horses on a tram-road, which were in waiting to carry on the passengers. Immediately after starting a rough- looking fellow, the conductor, entered our car and squatting himself down between two of the papsengers in a very free-and-easy manner, looked more like some amphibious animal just out of the sea than a human being, rigged as he was in a rough fustian kuit, a very seedy-looking hat, and long shaggy hair, all well drenched in the heavy rain. He commenced grinning with great self- complacency, and said " I guess I am come to pay you a visit, and will trouble you for your fares." On being paid he grinned a satisfactory sort of smile and walked out, leaving the efiects of his wet clothing beltind, much to the paasengers' annoyance. At three-and-a-half milen^ from Lewiston we passed what is called the Devil's Hole^ a chasm formed in the cliff, on the American side, 200 ft. deep, and as the cars had to pass close to its brink some of the passengers became very nervous ; however it afforded a splendid view, looking down as we did on the river below, tinged with lovely green trees and thick foliage on both hanks. Directly we came within sight of a distant view of Niagara I involuntary turned away after a momentary glimpse, fearing I might be disappointed after hearing bo much of the grandeur of the Falls from some people and diverse opinions by others, so that I turned to admire nearer objects at hand. On arriving at the village of Niagara Falls (American side) we were bored by numerous porters^ servants and boys from the various hotels, all calling out the praises of their respective belongings, such a» " Eagle Hotel, fine place, Sir ; " " Cataract, Sir, besfc f th magnifi- ie in width. ; Lewiston, led by the horses on a rry on the igb- looking I squatting^ 8 in a very amphibious »ing, rigged }dy-looking t>ed in the I great self- to pay you On being and walked >liind, much a-half mile» )evir8 Hole> side, 200 ft. its brink i ; however 1 we did on B8 and thick ritbin eight ary turned I might be grandeur of >pinions by objects at igara Falla ouB portent^ i, all calling ]g8, such as t, Sir, best ) 13 place" and such like commendations f.om others. We decided at last, that is myself and friend, to try the «' Cataract," it sounding more romantic, though tbe Eagle Hotel was certainly the best looking. We had a very good breakfast served up in the American style, and afterwards we started in company with an American gentleman to visit the Falls, which were not far distant. On our way we met Mr. Farq.iharaon, who told us that he had taken a look at Niagara which was quite sufficient for him. No doubt taking more interest in making money than in looking at one ot the wonders "* 1 miTsrconfess that my peep of the Great Fall for the first time, as we saw it at a distance, was somewhat disappointing, then it looked small and k significant, but wlmt a change took place in ones opinion on a nearer approach. It was then indeed a magnificent and glorious sight ! The River Niagara is about 36 miles in length from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario and nearly between the two lakes an almost perpendicular cliff inins across the river, of an irregular form, over which the river takes its grea*i leap, divided into two parts by Goat Island; that on the American side is called the American fall, and that on the Canada si Ie the British or Horse Shoe Fall on account of the curved form it assumes. The whole width of the great fall from one side of the river to the other, taking in Goat Island (328 yards wide) measures from 1200 to IdOU yards, and the greatest drop or fall 164 feet. Immedi- itely above the Falls the river becomes so 8vj:ft and impetuous, owing to a slight slope in the bed ot the river for about one-and-a-half miles, gives it the name of the rapids, where the water is ever rushing on to the edge of the falls with such force that it is almost impossible to land on Goat Island, or its vicinity, and then only at great risk, until by the spirited exertions of Judge Porter ind his brother (both Americans) living in the neigh- f t i Ha)«IHiwM» ('*'! % iQ, [ bourhood, the difficulty was overcome by the erection of bridges leading first, lo Bath Island and tlien to Goat Island. Tlie task at first bight seemed almost impos- sible i)Ut luckily the depth of water was sufficiently shallow on the American side for the purpose, which would not have been practicable on the British side. The distance to Bath Island was only 448 feet, and therefore the two Yankees with their workmen commenced this great undertakicg by forming a strong pier-head close to the shore, from which two long spars of sufficient strength, somewhat apart, were projected about half-way with their inner ends well secured to the pier. Then planks were laid across to form a bridge, on which large blocks of stone were conveyed to the ouier end and dropped into the water, this was continued until another pier was formed strong enough to support the extreme ends of the spars, strengthened still more by driving piles of timber into the bed of the river all around it to prevent the masses of stone from being washed away by the force of the current. In this manner, by slow degrees, other piers were laid down, and bridges formed connecting Bath Inland to the American shore, strong enough to bear foot passengers. Ultimately Goat Island was connected to Bath Island by similar bridges, to the intense satisfaction of the brothers Porter and the neighbourhood. A storv is told of a celebrated Indian Chief, B«d Jacket by' name, who passed over these bridges shortly after they we>e completed in company with one of the proprietors. As be walked along, the mingled emotions of hate, envy, and admiration, which rankled in bis bosom towards the white man were markedly expressed as he gazed at the dashing waters, firm piers, and secure superstructures, uttering every now and then Yankee yan/cee— applying an epithet not proper to mention though easily guessed, at least expressing more of spite than goodwill. We (my friend and self) 4 :(■,). ■^.t?*^"/ . ,_--.':^~T-.-*'~"^r ' ) »jBain»a»y«»ai«c't«M»«aM ' ' ''i « '™'" ' "» ' '% srection of n to Goat ost impos- iifficiently ose, which e British f 448 feet, workmen ig a strong long spars projected secured to to form a conveyed ir, this was ng enough rengthened the bed of es of stone le current, s were laid .land to the passengers. Jath Island ;ion of the Chief, Red Iges shortly I one of the id emotions kled in his [y expressed piers, and ' and then proper to expressing ad and self) \ 15 cros<«ed over to Bath, or Irisisland by this bridge. A pretty little spot where we had to pay 25 cents each, collected as a toll, and then passed over to Goat Island by the other bridge. This island is about half-a-mile long, and quart er-of-a-mile wide, covered with trees in all parts. We walked to the N.W. point, which embraces a splendid view of the American Fall, the river below, and fine landscape scenery, and while I was sketching this view a violent thunder-storm came on suddenly, so that the loud peals of thunder combined with the roaring rush of waters, made it a scene ot sublimity mixed with awe not easily to be forgotten. From this we walked to the " Biddle" staircase, erected by an American gentleman of that name for the general public, on the river side (Goat Island), down a per- pendicular cliff of 70 feet to the rocks below. From which though very damp at times arising from clouds ot mist— very wetting — passing occasionally over the face of the falls, we with difficulty scrambled over some low lying rocks and stony places to a spot where the view of the whole of the great Horse-shoe Fall was truly magnificent. No words of mine can possibly describe the wonderful and ever-varying scene as we looked upwards on the stupenduus cataract rolling over the awful precipice in one continued roar, with the violence of an avalanche, resembling in whiteness the fleecy appearance of flakes of snow; except, towards the central part of the Fall where the water is much deeper it has a greenish tinge. It may be easily imagined that the great volume of water continually descending into the river below, computed at 100,000,000 tons per hour must cause a vast commotion of seething waters all along the foot of the fall, the beauty of which cannot be surpassed, as from the force and gravity ot the great leap the river underneath is one mass ot foam, whirlpools, and lashing waters of dazzling foam, boiling and rushing downwards with great violence. f mn'mm o 16 Whilst at tlie same time the reaction causes jets of ripray to leap upwards in every fanciful form to a considerable height. . After awhile we re-ascended the staircase, and troni the top of which I took a sketch including the American Fall, and the river Niagara rolling onwarrls towards Lake Ontario. We then walked to the b.\N. «.nd of Goat Island, and crossing a small bridge over some rocks ascended to the summit of a tower, erected by Mr Porter, overlo>:.king a view almost unparalleled in nature, grand, sublime, awral. On one hand looking up the river some distance, where the water appeami perfectly smooth, yet so treacherous and deceittuJ, running as it does into the current rapidly approaching the dangerous part called the Rapids, the dread both of man and beast, for there the river commences to rush onwards with headlong fury, foaming, and spark- ling with broken waves right across the water, until tor a t'ew moments, figuratively (right along the edge ot the Cascade) the river again becomes quite placid just before it takes the final leap. From our elevated position we could easily define the curved shape of '-the Horse shoe Fall," and admire the central portion of greenis'h water (supposed to be 20 feet deep) rolling over the precipice into the foaming cauldron beneath. On the other hand, looking uown the river we could trace its course for many miles, and take in a large extent of woodland scenery, and the steep richly wooded banks of the river on either side. On quitting these lovely scenes we walked to the ferry house ( American side) a short dis'.ance from the American Fall, where I took a sketch of both Falls. We then crossed the river with our baggage in the ferry boat, rowed by a Yankee of somewhat wild appearance who' would have made a valuable picture with his long lanky figure, long straight hair, and rough style ot dress, together with his bluntness of speech, coinciding i C ) ( ', s jets of )rin to a and from iding the ; onwards I the S.W. •idge over iv, erected (paralleled id looking • appeaie«l deceitful, tproaching Iread both mences to ,nd spark - r, until for lie edge of placid just r elevated ipe of '• the portion of lep) rolling m beneath. f we could in a large ,eep richly Iked to the Be from the I Falls. We n the ferry appearance ith his long igh style of , coinciding 17 ydth the scene around. As the boat approached the centre of the stream, the river was running down with great rapidity carrying us along with it, but the eddy on either side of it was so strong in the contrary direction that the crossing was much easier than could have been expected. Landing on the Canada side we ascended by a winding road to the Clifton Hotel, kept by Hermanns Cryster, where I obtained a comfortable lidroom facing Niagara, ^nd then my friend and myself sat down to dinner at th« table dhdte. Alter dinner we inspected a museum, where we were shewn some good Bpecimens of birds, insects, fish and reptiles, also four living rattlesnakes all found m the neighbour- hood, the latter being kept under glass. At the Clifton Hotel we met two of our late shipmntes, Maior Arthur and Captain Aylmer, both of the 93rd Regiment, also Colonel, Mrs. and Miss Cox, who we thought pleasant people, besides numerous Yankees and other visitors. Like most Hotels in America, there » a daily tabic d'h6te, breakfast 8 a.Tn. dinner 2 p.m., and tea at G p.m., for which two dollars are charged daily to each person. In the front of the building there is a piazza on each floor commanding fine and extensive views, but every part of the building, windows especially, were rattling continually from the concus- sion of the great body of water rolling over the precipice, not altogether pleasant to nervous people. Friday 28th.— My friend and myself walked to the Table-rwk overhanging that part of the Horse-shoe t alls contiguous to the Canada side-unfortunately the day was misty and rainy. A staircase leads down to the rocks underneath where a series of massive stones have fallen from above at various times. We th^ walked towards the hotel, and from a spot not far ott I took a sketch, taking in a general view of Niagawi Words cannot describe the many contending feelings ( ) O o o o vO (J o ( ) n (. ) VJ O ( .) o 18 U that agitate the mind at this wonderful Kene, but, inwardly, I thought — thou great Creator of thin magnificent world ! How wonderful are Thy works 1 even Kkgara ! How sublime and terrible are thy roar of wateri*, ' '?< The everlnating roar of continued falls ; Man, what are thou ? a mere atom — Behold Rtiipendous rocka, trees, anil glens. Rushing waters and overhiinging rocks, ready at any moment to dash one into eternity ; The earth trembles at thy power. And the mind of man is lost in amazement At the whirlpools of water and gre«h coloring of the foaming river. Fleecy vapora rising and kissing the skies, Spreading mysterious beauty o'er the scene. Who can dwell on such subjects without feeling the power and magnitude of the Divine Architect ? On our return to Clifton House, I met my friend. Captain Trevelyan of the 93rd Regiment, and after dinner walked with him to the famous Whirlpool, three miles below the hotel, passing en route through lovely scenery skirting both banks of Niagara, besides several beautiful rapids. The Whirpool is formed by a bend ot the river taking a sudden turn to the right in its course— forming an obtuse angle about 430 feet wide, with high perpen- dicular cliflfs on either side. It is said, that logs of wood are often seen whirling about in this one spot for days together, drawn down on arriving in the central part or vortex of the whirlpool with great force, and then being cast up again on its borders; this often continued many da.^s, until cast up beyond the action of the whirling current. 29th, Saturday.— Took a last fond look of some of onr favourite views on the ('anada side, and at noon oiossed the river to see once more Niagara from Goat iedand, remembering Milton's words — "Must I leave thee, Paradise ? ^ ' fjV' * Fit haunts for Ooda ? " ' ~^' f /T^, o n .^„:v^,- O O O O u n ' ) O O r) O o ••'"^. o itcene, but. sment tu dash aiug river, feeling the :t? my friend, and after Ipool, three )ugh lovely des several iver taking forming an gh perpen- liat logs of me spot for the central force, and this often i the action of some of ad at noon I from Goat & I ! 2.50 p.m. — Started by rail for Buffalo. I may relate a c(«nver8ation which took place at the Eagle Hotel whilst we were having breakfast. Our merchant friend Mr. Farquharson, recommended us .strongly not to travel by canal boat, dehcribing the horror and misery of Bucli a conveyance, only averaging about five miles an hour, and having to lie down at night higgledy, piggledy, heads and heels together. " It is not so, gjutlemen," said a dapper-looking small American, with a face as fierce as a North-wester. " I guess, gentlemeb, if you travel by canal-boat, you will find it as comfortable as by any other conveyance, and there is no such thing as lying heads and heels together." " Then how do they lie," asked Mr. Farquharson ? " ♦'Why with their heads close to other people's heels, but not higf^ledy, piggledy, as you say, and they can sleep comfortably." We laughed, and asked Mr. Farquharson if this was the conversation he called American liberty and politeness' He only answered " You will only find impertinent people on the frontiers." Arrived at Buffalo in the afternoon (29th), 21 milea from Niagara, a large and rapidly-growing town, situated close to Lake Erie, with a population of about 16,000 inhabitants, though only a tew years ago it barely existed. Now it is au imposing town, with numerous well-built houses and wide streets. We put up (my friend and myself) at the " Hotel American," which was very large a O o ' o"o o 00 0.0" "" O „ °o o '-^ "„ o T-.o; o o o o OCD „o O o Oo o O, oo o„ c? O " O fj 0*^0 o o o J^ O o ^ " o 00 a o o O O o o O °° 0° O " 'K. "" oc oo ' 'i^o J O .-. o -. -TO CJ "O "O ^O ° P ' - . o o Oq o o -3 o ° O 3"«o Co „','.'•?',; c.fo ° o 8° o t^ „ Qo o o " OO o •J°o=> °" Oo c'.r? rjo aj •; ''„ ° tio°o ° 'o = „ o o (3 " Q° ^00^0°" o ° O °0 O OJ o o " O O ^° ^'^ roS C' o °o " o O °0° ■> o<,°c, € O O ^ O O O ooC? „„ " . : i o o,o o „ ° rj o O 00, o O "Oo ° -, O OOqOOO^ Jo "^ 0° O O O „0 .„ ."o 0-" .''■•..?.,''■•'■»'•. ■".l '^'■••"- , '■ "■'•■ ■ . ' ' o ' . ° » "'.5. "^ -■! ■ "^ „■•';* •• " .•.".'. ■''*^ ■'•"•'. V- •„• " ." ' ' • '• ■*'•;■ .* ''•''''': .•"•■'.'•"' V- •',■.: ii:^ •«'.•■ -o'' .,•"'' ''^'°<.- •\ /." ' ' "■--. "' ''' ' '^' ° •''•'JV'f-\: •"• 'vv '-v' ••VJ t"". "••'■;-■.■' "•'••J; •' >AV:'i. ■''■■• . ..• I «>5 •• \%«^? !a° a?" ■• ° ?;.',.» 1.. 1*,-.' 03 « ° ....... • • U°o. 0* ° o o ■'& o'Sd O O « O 'Oo' o -/•••". '• »•. f<- ....••■..■•5 "v ' ,'..:•;•.'•». -^ ■•.■•••>- >i%'' 4'- <.•.;: A' •.. . u ■o " 3°-.T ',. ""»• ."i ° n . .°o. J.V- :<^ •l*-vp.o". • ■•)••> •'■ .vy..i •>".•., boasting, telli ng us that no nation in the world posBessed a more enlightened and prosperous people ; in tact, a reeular go-ahead nation. He carefully brought to our , \^ notice every object we passed on the road that he .-..^ .^ . thought worthy of our attention, describing thera in very • • / glowing colourn. I^upp<«e,be coA^(ier^^. ,w.. were l»pth .J,..- ..;• Rngliahmen ^r •*•". ":',%° ° ,.?&" "t-. • \ oo • o'j; • i • • • » <= Sunday, 30th. We were obliged tu continue travel- > ° r" -_ '"""lintr thourrh rather wearied with the close atmosphere ^.-s . at night in a coach, subject to constant shaking, pitching and rolling, often threatening a capsize over very rough ,^' . : oordurov roads-that is, sterns of trees thrown across . the road insteud of stone. We passed en route tbrough o . several villages, stopping at one of them occasional y ° ... /^. to change horses, and soraetimes the carriage as well. • . v\ • «: o • • \ . .V ., ... • * ... *■ '", » o o o o o o ..9 to change noises, mi- ■ numui-iiu*^" -• — - — o- . „ ,•* •* « "^ • At a village called Avon we stopped to breakfast, turn- - J| • , ine out of the carriage mat objectn to look at— dirty and c. ; • . .jf . . , looking very sleepy. However, we were powertullv ' refreshed with what " Jack calls a lick and a promise that is. a partial washing of the face and hands, an ^then sat down to breakfast, which had l>een laid out in .^ preparation for our ariival. After this repast the coach., ^ ,. started again. •.^- ..... . jr and -^ ; • * ..J*.. • nise, . • ,t|.*5 », and ■ \." •". *\ 0° o ■^^ eoinff to churcn, preuiiy aresseu, ia,i-uc. ^.-^^ , .,,, ^^ Sppearance to our travelled-stained clothing. At noon,^- ^ ° we reached a \ ilia called Canandaigua, prettily situateil ,.. ■ on the borders of a small lake of the same name. ITie^s larger houses are built something after the Grecian .••, .- < 0,/)0 ^, larger nouses oic """« =.,.*.v.w— ^ _ — . ;^oj,tyle,with porticoes, &c., and along the curb-stones of cf°°othe Mvement trees are growing, forming a nice shade ; ,. « "for momenaders. Here we changed horses and the • .} "^'-^ coach, and starting again, reached the pretty village of 'o,. , Geneva at 4 p.m., situated on the confines of Lake ^ - Senecca, about 35 miles long and three or four wjde^oo standing amidst charHning «^nejry,clothed with Ijixurianto o- . 3. o.\,'. ,..2- o o o raSf • . I? o O 1^ P°o O o ' ''°, «0 '00^0 1> o . ... "% ^ «.(?.• o •« o •• «»-°.|.'o ° .*. ." .. .» 8' ;<■„ o ■° -; ^;o^->r: :•::%.>/;• .- -2 •".••.° v"'"-. ;••:=? >-': -"•'« °B » o» o' ^ .,..-• - 'Jt". .5'.° •<.* s -••"•^ "'• . 80 .° "t."-. „° 2 ° " "ho °.o.;...5, ". '„'■••'■■- ..•.•\-r> ..V.-r.'-J .4*!f:»"- "^ .Sau' •?==".«•.., ^. • •.. •».-. . . :• ^S»'' ..-:.■:•''.■'',■:■• ■ v. .°;^" ..-..^/-v «•=;»; «:\V3?"° •>«.-•> , :^--°=-- -yV''-^- •..»"•.:'•■ -''-^^n'" ^ -M -..-v .• :^ ' -v^^^^ -.^i-'-^v: ..;>.. ^•:'>^^•?■•■v•■>v•; ■•vi-^^^-'-^-; ' • Ir, ., !•» . . .. l-'l '^m-^ i<<>it * »l i ^i ^ijwi J* ;»-^*~., {)oaBe88ed fact, 9 ^ to our \ that he .'»..": I in very - ^ '. Irere Iwtb .•.•3': le t.-avel- nosphere pitching sry rough vn across s through laHionally ! as well, ast, turn- dirty and ^» owerfu t • o • •• ' • V•,„.•^..•:• ■'.:». ■•'^^' r;y:v-!)-^Jv-...;^'';-.> o' , •• . i;; o ■*.• ':i ... .'■/•.•••'•• .'.V .'•■•? V ,,.•••' .-.vv'i •";»..' •••. .•...■■.'•■.• ": -i ..■ ' v ■'■■■;^■■^• •''" ^V.^v i'- 'f'Vr^^ \;ti-e«9,'an«ir'al»rtun(linpr here^ and there '•vntli'%ei(fe'' oi:-;-^^^'^^/?-^^;^ :fj: ■:■■::.;;;. ^^■■'.■■■■[:^'\j'-it''iyi^^ ', "»*^, wheat. Tlte houses are nacstly of the viHa type, withvyy-f'^'^v' ;'^j j 'v ..-'^ '.' ■ '.,:^si.'^^^'';'-f:.:-'^'iv''':-'^^^ ; ••? . • pretty giirdens in front, gay with roses and othtt[<-:^ii^':?^y:i}'iii..''.i\-'%'' ■■ -■\ ^■■'^■■■''''''^^^ ' .' ;^,_: flowers, looking bright and cheery, whilst the pav^/^/^.^55yf^i^.^v?C3;:^^^^^ , *■ • .?" inents, shaded by trees, were ihronged with well-dre88ed'":l-'-~'.V;-i'.-.-:'.v"'r'i'..'.''' ■■■■ ' ■"••■'..;■■..■':'■ X:.v'",';:,.vH'';f;n:'^V:?-'x' -'^ . ••■=;> -people in Sunday attire. We telt it would have heeii:V'''-'.:y".''f- f.;-!'"h .■ '-■'•■■■■:■' ^:--:-'-; ^■:;-.f-\::^!l:y'i''^^/ ^''^'^.'.i^^ ■•• •'•.•■ '.■ ■.•v:---':'v,-7 •■• ■^/■■'^^.•-^.^■^v■•^•i■■■;^v.•.^:..;V;^■^;'^■■'= ^^■•T^VV.■'^^ •- . •. ■-..x''-\t','.-- ■•;■.■•• ■. . '■'. ■• '■■,.■V■.;..i•;~^■ /-::••■ ^■.•"■••'2;.:v;-.'.V^v,''\-;^,;'v',-f.---:"';-Mj'-' •vs5'''^ .: • ; . ::..-\'*r'-"-,''-''.'-'- ,•■:'•'■■,• ■■,' V .' . . ■i.iV'-.:' '■•>-'v ■.•.■.■ ''•-•;':•' '■■■:.: ••Vr'^.;.,:>'T'' ' ••;• ' ■■;.,■' ■■'■•:.:■:■.•■..••''..■ ,■:••..■.-••..•>'■'■•. i-'i^.^v :■.<•■,•■.,.•■ 4'. •'.•:'• ■■'.'■•■ "■■^' . '. '..'^•'"vl-.: warming influence of the sun, gave the scene arouu ,;-j^'".:v ■. v,v.-,.-.. ■;?V /'^'^'-v'-^'l-;' .. ::<;?/'■■•■ promi ands, lid out in the coach village ojf kee ladie^i"!^;"' .*.,'* tferent in •/, /".* . At noon ' ^ ' * y situated • me. The ' 3 Grecian -stones of **'" ice shade and the village of of Lake aur wide,^o° luxuriantoV o 0° «r a • r% o On * •?°j "'with needful food. Our American companions indulged../ •.^:^t .";;,■• y\.w:\^ 80 my friend and myself did the 8am6i\-''.!?i.'.;\'':-;\,,.'',i5«^^^^ dinner by the time the coach was ready')'t\v-;;j ■..:'..;'•■ ,Z\M\ powerfully refreshed and happier m'i'^'^' ■:'.']]] i'^. ■.}^^^ ":'■■■ ■.■'■■■' rfully i ^'-IL-: . ;..% -in champagne, s, ^io-i* °» •• • , W •• • and after a good !nH •• • . -S-C.-v'to Start, Tfelt , and 00 • • oW . ^ • • . , V, , . at in :• • '• .' «"nd. Proceedi ^■;.-^' ;^.'^v;^N:;r'^''^-:^'? K /^':^^\>V:o?)'^-• /.■■^....}■•■•^-■^!■:-;•v . .t.'. .-. 1. J. • . • ' ir : ..-■i'--' ':..' ..l-.y'':-;-iyf-. :: ""^o- \:fr' 5>:' ; / ./were very kind and agreeable, and were much astonisheii^-.i ^/l^..^:;. •:>:.■ ^ J.'-\f,*'' &t listening to my stories of foreign lands at my young.^.vyv^.v'.ii;^^^^ \'';"i^^^"age, Mrs. L. remarking that;.! only looked lyr'^V;;;";^^^^^^^^^ •o*'S/»°« years old, flattering no doubt, a'^.'lin'.ifeality I was 2fti;^f.•;•i'^r•:;:M^^:•v^,'| •. **. ''°= We left Auburn in another carriage with the mnM},yX'^'^-'-U^',::;_y "^ c ° passengers, and found the glass broken iu the front part, ■;■';' 'pv/:;%/'i;.v [ • '"'ir.^. close to my friend's head, who not liking the draugh^\'f-f0.^!%\v'""f* ;^''*"' and cold night air, asked the coachman kindly to dof"' ■•"■■.•' \ •■.•;.•■ f J .j" "J^^something to stop it, and offered him money, but he/A'-.^y... ■;/.' «. . .(, Y°°^^9!y answered in a surly manner that he had nothing t!9^;V-y>^'jVs.|'. •.."'• * . ],jf°do°it with, and that he had better shift with the oth0ifr;;v'v;,;'^^':1^V. v- o '"o %'.• gentleman. We growled, and told him travellers itt-4*J:;i'?:.r,V'.-/^^^ • ^ •,..', England would receive belter treatment, so the windo^i-.v^"- ;■;•:" ,^;:./^' ' ■ '-^ ■" ■'■;^:':. '0-''S'^''.-^':i^; '■■ :<•'■■■•' ' ■/-•■'^^••■'•''•^■■v/i-'!'^ '. ■:■■'■'■ ■■:. 4 -rv': ■„ Sv-;'"'' •'!^/-':---^^--^ .•'■;. . 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At the next station we stopped at to change hors«,, I overheard the Judge and Mr — - '^^buking the coachman, and telling him he ought to be more civil to Eng i«h travellers. boUi of them, at the sa'ne time giving him money. His only answer was that he did not know we were Englishmen. , n ^ „ Monday July 1st. Stopped at Utica to breakfast, a tol sSted o'n the south' bank of the Mohawk river one of the largest and most important .nland cities in the State of New York, with a population of 10,18^ "^^At^p'^rm., instead of travellinji again in our ac- customed carriage, all the passengers were coudncteato a railway station close at hand, where we had each to pay the required fare, and were then shewn into our Lpective cars-the number of cars and «eas being ma?ked on each ticket-so that there was "O difficulty ^confusion in finding the allotted ««^t ««»«''^^""g ^^.^^ long train of cars-as the Americans call them-arranged underneath a shed. As soon as the loc^T^^^Cn attached, the train started at an average speed of fifteen miles per hour, certainly far more plea.sant than the horrid motion of a coach, squeezed together as we had been for 80 long a time. This was my farst introduct on to railway travelling. The only inconvenience we felt arose from using wSod tor fuel instead of coal, so that Te cars were Ln filled with fine du.t. We passed through very pretty scenery as the train travelled along bvt ebanks of the river Mohawk-named sot.oma tribe of ^ndians-with verdant fields on all sides and thickly wooded here and there A pretty girl was seated in our car-at least she had a pretty face, but American women in general lack that healthful glow so chwacteristic in Englishwomen. We passed several ^^^la^^^ jftaMia gw9»«^'»^ftwc \.merican to soften re horses, iking the le civil to ,ine time, lat he did eakfast, a iwk river, d cities in of 10,183 Q our ac- udiicted to ad each to I into our leats being difficulty idering th»* — arranged notive was ;d of fifteen t than the r as we had atroduction iuce we felt ;oal, so that We passed veiled along d so fiom a II sides, and tty girl was ;ty face, but hful glow so ssed several m encampments occupied by Irish labourers who we heard were too fond of whiskey, but, on the other hand, they possess one good trait in respect to their families. As soon as they can save a small sum of money it is sent to dear auld Ireland, either to parents, wives, or other dear relatives or friends, and if prosperous in the new country they send for wives and families. Our Yankee friends were very inquisitive, en- deavouring by various que3tion8 to find out our position, etc . and what we were doing in the States. 1 he Judge, Mr C , asked mo if my friend was a physician, to which I answered, "No." He then enquired it we belonged either to the Army or Navy. Then, to satisfy his curiosity, I informed him that my friend was a naval Chaplain, and that I was an officer in the British navy. From that time our American friends redoubled their civility and it appeared to me that, although they delighted in reviling England and her laws outwardly, vet, on the whole, there was an under current of love for the home of their ancestore, and admiration and respect for the mother country, as the A^mericans always ■ term Entrland. We passed several interesting looking villages, and arriving at a village called Little Falls the train ran between high limestone hills, not far apart, rendering the pass so narrow that it was only wide enough for the road and river (Mohawk) to pass through. On arriving at the city of Schenectady (we had to change carriages and train), which is situated in a vaUey of the Mohawk river, containing some fine buildings, especially the Union College. On leaving, the railway- ca?8we were drawn up a very steep hiU by njachinery and at 3.30 p.m. arrived at Albany, the capital of the btate of New York, 296 miles from Buflfalo, and situated on the west bank of the river Hudson. The State House is a fine building, and many of the private houses are handson?e. The population is about 28,109. We dined at the hotel American, and our Yankee I ^i'iafi.fl.-'^v^rs. '.-r- c-^^"lr^^^'W»«f«* «-M« r ■-■ , .,....,, 1 , .,»„ . i _F.'T.l.-- — 1 ■ 24 ' ^"'' fvianAtL insisted on tr eatinff no vfr O chanipafffle at dinner. At o p.m. we all embarked on board the " De Witt Clinton^' steamer for New York, crowded with passengers. We steamed down the river Hudson, celebrated for its beautiful scenery, surpassiug; any other river in the States— well m»y Brother Jonathan be proud of his country ! The Judge Mr C aud Mr. Lawtou were particularly civil whilst we were on board the steamer, the latter gentleman beinp anxious that we should pay our respects to the President of the United States, who was expected to visit New York on the following day. We passed through lovely scenery on both sides of this noble river, but unfortunately too late in the day to see the river by daylight, and being worn out with two sleepless nights I was glad to turn in early. Tuesday, July 2ad. At 5 a m we arrived at New York and landed imme- diately, and then proceeded up Broadway to the Astor Hotel, a large and handsome building many stones high I was shewn to a bedroom up numerous flights of stairs, where I enjoyed a refreshing bath and a good wash, so very necessary after travelling for many daya and nights by coach, train, and steamboat. After which 1 descended to the breakfast-room, losing myself several times before reaching it, amongst so many corridors and stairs. The breakfast— table dhote— was laid out in a large and neatly-furnished room on two long tables, reaching from one end of the room to the other, crowded at this time with numerous men and youths. The tables were groaning with everything one could wish for, such as every variety of hot dishes, effgs colil meats, and milk and butter, kept especially cool by large pieces of clear ice, highly appreciated at this time of the year, m well as to mix with ones drink At "table d'h6tes" in America the entrance door of the dining-room is kept closed a short time before each meal, so that a great assemblage of people i I «' Wj myself to barked on few York» I the river surpassiug^ y Brother Fudge, Mr. livil whilst gentleman !cts to the xpected to- (Ve paRsed this noble to see the TO sleepless , July 2ijd. ded imme- » the Astor any stories rous flights and a good many day» at. After sing myself L so many ie d'hote — >d room on ;he room to- lerous men everything hot dishes, t especially >reciated at with one's le entrance short time ;e of people '^f. I 25 are in waiting on the outside until a g^og sounds. Then the doors are opened and in rush a crowd of hungry Americans, and perhaps some foreij^ners, to get the best seats. It is curious to watch the rapidity with which the viands are consumed, and in less than half-an-hour the large room became quite deserted by all save my friend and myself, who were not able to swallow food with such celerity. The President (Van Buren) was due in the city at 2 p.m., therefore long before that hour the streets were thronged with civilians, voluntciers, and militia men — "Americans ooast" — look- ing very much out of their element in soldier's attire — something like sailors in long togs, as they call the dress of civilians. This military display attracted crowds of people in the streets, ot all classes of society ; a great dis- play of bunting was also to be Fcen from many a window and housetops, and of course the Yankee Stars and Stripes, the national flag, floated proudly from all the flagsiatfs in the city. We (friend and self) called on Mr. Lawton at his office in Wall Street, when he showed us round portions of a new Exchange now in progress of building. That portion which is finished is composed of massive blocks of granite in a neat classical style. Then we were shewn the new Custom House in the same street which will he an imposing building when finished. Trinity Church, close to Wall Street, built in the reign of Queen Anne, is one of the few remnants of England's supremacy in the States ; we regretted that our time would not allow us to visit it. We then walked down Broadway to the Battery situated on the S.W. end of Manhattan Island, on which tho City of New York i& built, laid out very prettily with a promenade, grass-plots, and gravel walks. The fortifi> cations onginally built by the Dutch face the harbour, and Broadway extends from the battery in a northerly direction about three miles, a wide and handsome street. Later on we both called on Judge Campbell (our lat« stsbSm^^^IBBIK^^ ,es ; />i^^ - 26 fellow-traveller) who introduced us to his family, one of his daughters being a very nice-looking, pleasant and talkative young lady ; informing us that the American ladies in New York were tired of hearing so much about Queen Victoria, and that the fashion had been for ponie time to call various articles of dress after her such as Victoria bonnets, Victoria shawls, etc., etc. ; and many of the citizens were often sending her presents, especially small kegs of a superior species of oysters. We were soon regaled with iced champagne and cake, and then our host shewed as his library well-stocked with valuable books. It was a very pleasant visit, and after awhile we had to say adieu to our kind old friend and pretty daughter, promising however to repeat the visit if our stay was prolonged. , tt . i At 3.30 p.m. the President passed Astors Hotel, followed by crowds of people all along Broadway amidst much cheering and demonstrations of joy, waving of hats, etc, whilst ladies from every balcony and window kept up a continual waving of handkerchiefs. The President was mounted on horse- back but the crowd was so great and dense that I could only catch a glimpse of his bare head. Owing to this procession the dinner at the hotel was deferred from o hours to 5 hours p.m., so we had to go without, though it was charged in our bill, at which we growled but received nothing but impertinence in return. Tue charges were tWo dollars a day each, including bed, breakfast, dinner and tea, so on the whole we thought it very cheap. ,.11. We had to hurry away from the hotel as the steamer we intended going by was to start at 5 p.m., therefore at the appointed time left New York on board the American sie&mer Musaachuaeta for Providence, crowded with passengers. At about six o'clock a bell was rung to summon the passengers to the saloon for tea, and the rush was so great that We poor ignoramuaea ot (^) i ^^^^y^ssmsi'iv: 'amily, one easant and ! American r go much had been IS after her ., etc. ; and sr presents, of oysters. ; aud cake, ?ell-stocked t visit, and old friend repeat the ar's Hotel, Broadway rations of :'rom every waving of d on horse- bat I could ing to this rred from 3 out, though fowled but turn. The hiding bed, we thought the steamer 1., therefore board the ce, crowded 1 was rung or tea, and tramuaea of 27 American customs waited until the greater portion of the crowd had satisfied the cravings of nature, and by the time we descended for our share of tea found to our astonishment the tables nearly cleared of everything eatable, and no entreaties could persuade the stewards to add a single item of food to that which had been already provided, meeting with nothing but the greatest incivility, so we determined for the future to do as the Americans did, bi)lh at hotels and in steam- boats, to stick to the old motto, " first come first served." The steamer being very crowded necessitated that many of the passentjers had to sleep at night in beds or cots as they are called by Americans, of very narrow dimensions suspended l)y uprights in three tiers, one above the other, similar to that described iti a former steamvessel. July 3rd.— Foggy weather. At 11 a.m. arrived at Providence in the State of Massachusets, a populous city about 180 miles from New York. I was accosted on landing by a Yankee asking me if I was in search of employment, and another man asked if I was a carpenter, taking me, no doubt, for an emigrant. My friend and myself might have indeed been tiken for working-men liy the appearance of our clothes, dirty and stained with so much travelling, and hats knocked out of all shape by constantly bumping against the roof of carriages as we jolted along such rough roads ; however, we soon got free from these gentry by saying we were engaged, or answers to that eflfect. At 3.30 p.m. left by train for Boston, distant 43 miles, and arrived there at p m., where we took up our quarters at the Tremount House, a very comfortable hotel, and servants very civil, a rarity in the United States. Thursday, July 4th. This day is kept as a great festival by all An erioans, in celebration of the " Decla- ration of Independence," July 4th, 1776. After .©, ) '■:^-''-^;:f^^':''>^'--^'r^^^ 28 breakfast we walked to Bunker's Hill, celebrated as a battlefield during the War of Independence between the British troops, commanded by Generals Howe and Pigot, and the American colonists, in which the latter ■were eventually routed after several attacks on their entrenched positions, but with great loss on our side. During the battle crowds of anxious spectators mounted church steeples, roofs of houses in Bostoa, every high eminence in the neighbourhood, and on the masts of the shipping in the harbour ; all agitated by different hopes and fears as self interest prompted them. The Americans are now at work erecting a tower on Bunker's Hill to commemorate their stout resistance and supposed triumph, which is to be 221 feet high, commanding a fine view. On this day all the principal shops in Boston are closed, and numerons processions continued parading the streets, which attracted crowds of sightseers, clothed in holiday attire. We strolled about from street to street all the forenoon, and though meeting so many people parsed very few pretty women, rjither disappointing on such a gala day, but some of the shops were very attractive, displaying on their counters huge njasses of clear blocks of ice which being cheap was in great request to cool numerous American drinks, viz , sherry cobbler, mint julip. &c. Boston is the capital of Maasachusetts, possesses an excellent harbour, and is said to be one of the best built cities in the United States, but as our stay was to be short could not do much sight-seeing, nevertheless it is a fine-looking city, with good streets and some handsome houses. At 2 p.m. returned to our hotel to dine at the table d'hote, which was served up in a similar manner to that at the Astor Hotel, New York, though perhaps some- what inferior in style. Americans as well as ourselves leemed to enjoy the ample supply of ice placed on •very part of the tables during the meal, especially as M^ L*k^T>**^T'''''- -^' ' '" » u l)rate(i aa a :e between Howe and I the latter :8 on their D our side, rs mounted every high le masts of )y different hem. The tower on ; resistance L feet, high, le principal processions cted crowds Ve strolled and though jtty women, but some of ig on their *hieh being IS American 30S£esses an )f the best stay was to vertheless it > and some at the table nner to that rhaps some- as ourselves i placed on especially as the weather at this time of the year was over hot. Many of the Americans appeared to be very abstemious with regard to alcoholic drinks, mostly only drinking water at dinner, or milk, tea or coffee at bieakfast and at tea time. Jn large hotels there is generally a quad- rangle in the central part of the builiiing, so that it ia easy to look from one'.s bedroom into the rooms opposite. Rather awkward if people do not keep their blinds down ; for instance while 1 was in my bedroom I saw a couple Molto amoroso, at lea>»t a male and female were kissing each other most affectionately. In the evening walked with my friend to the public park on the outskirts of the city to witness a grand display ot fireworks, where we were toM about 20,00(^ people had congregated to witness the fireworks, and yet with this enormous crowd there was no apparent misbehaviour on the part of any person present, no bad language, or drunkenness to be seen, too often the case in Merry England. We were much pleased with the civility of so many persons we happened to meet, when de.sirous of being directed to some particular street or shop, &c., though before doing so it wa.s necessary to answer a few questions, such as, '"I guess you are a stranger," or " I guess you are a Britisher," &c., and then directly their curiosity is satisfied would walk a considerable distance to put us in the right track, even when a place or house was difficult to find. After some refreshment at the Tremont Hotel we were walking (friend and sslH towards the steamboat wharf each smoking a cigar, when we were rudely accosted by a Policeman saying *• I presume you must not smoke ia the streets," placing at the same time his staff of office across our bodies to stop us from advancing; any further, and bidding us desist from smoking immediately* This language in a supposed free country roused our John Bull blood, so we had to throw away our half- eunoked cigars with great indignity, and vented our m) '""""'"*'•"''•"•' •" ' ""f '--rrr-*'"--^-- t! o: spleen on the enlightened people of Boston. At midnight started for Portland in a steamer called the « Portland." 5th, Foggy v.'eatlier. While I was perambulating the upper deck in the forenoon, one of the ship's boys came and told me tliat I must go below. Tina seemed such an extraordinary request that I asked what it meant. " You must go below," said he, so I answered, " Very well, that will do," and continued my walk. The Steward then came and repeated the same message, but not feeling inclined to submit, and rather enioyiug the fun, answered, " All right," and continued my walk. " No, it h not all right," he said; " have you a ticket?" "No," I answered, and the Steward, no doubt taking me for a doubtful character, called out to the Captain, " Here is a man, bir, who says he wont go below," whereupon the Captain questioned me and told me to'go below, and if 1 did not conform to the rules of the ship I had i)ettef go on siiore. 1 explained to him that my friend had my ticket, but as he also insisted on my going down to the cabin or saloon for passengers, I condescended so far as to step down to the deck below, when, to my astonishment, I saw the passengers coming up out of the saloon one by one and delivering their tickets to an officer of the ship. This seemed as if the passengers v^ere not considered too honest, to have recourse to such a S3'stem, when at an appointed time they are confined in the saloon until the pleasure of the Captain allows them to asctnd. This is said to be necessary to prevent fraud or cheating the Company. At 12 p.m. arrived at Portland, seemingly a snug harbour and a thriving town. At 1 p.m. started in a stage coach for Augusta, having as passengers a Wesleyan preacher, a son, and a friend, also two Americana (tradespeople). It was not long before a discussion commenced between the preacher and some of the passengers on religious subjects, relative more especially to the creed of Universalism (a common sect in New mm \ ! ( ) on. At ir called le I was in, one of ^o below. it I asked I he, so I inued my the same nd rather jontinued have you iward, no led out to ; wout go } and told the rules plained to 30 insisted assengers, the deck jassengers ielivering seemed as ist, to have inted time 3ure of the aid to be Company. J a snug tarted in a iWesleyan Americans discussion ne of the i especially !ct in New o it England), who believe that there is no punishment for fcin after death, and heaven 's a sure reward as all sins are punished in various ways while dwelling on earth. They appear to retain the same religious opinions as their forefathers, who in 1620 became unsettled by the intolerance of the home government, and at first passed to Holland, but afterwards emigrated to this over country (New England) a number of poor, ignorant, and fanatical zealots. About 101 in number reached Cape Cod at break of day 9th November, 1628, settling near at hand, and in affectionate remembrance of the poit of Plymouth, from which they sailed, called their new settlement New Plymouth. A Yankee who was a fellow passenger treated us (my friend and self) to a long discussion, more wearisome than pleasant, against the° Government of England, who he termed both op- pressive and tyrannical, ami that Englishmen were entirely ruled by a proud nobility. " I guess," said he, " that there is no nation in the woild can compete with us (Americans). See our shifs, [ guess they will outstrip anv of yours ; and look at our railroads, steam machinery," etc., and suchlike boasting a? long as we travelled together. At 11 a.m. arrived at Augusta, the capital city of the State of Maine. 6th July. Foggy weather. Left Augusta at 7 a.m. in the mail coach, a slow affair— only travelling about five miles an hour. We had as passengers an old lady and two young ones, two Americans (men), and the Wesleyan preacher, so the conversation, as usual, turned on religious subjects, both old and young joining in the conversation, arguing, it seemed, more with the wish to find fault with statements in the Bible than to profit by its holy teaching. The old lady was an Universalist, and argued in the most ridicidous manner with the Wesleyan^ who asked her to explain from Scripture, and especially from the New Testament, the derivatioo of her belief. She answered, " You will find it in the 15th chapter O I 1 mmm^S- o o o o I. ) o o o o r ^ o 32 c of St. Paul's 1st Epif»tle to the Corinthians, \erpe 42, ' So also is the resurrection of the dead — it \h sown in corruption ; it is raised in incorruption ; it is sown in dishonour; it is raised in glory; it h sown in weaknenH ; it is raised in power; it is sown a natural body ; it is raised a spiritual body.' These verses," she «aid, "formed the foundation ot their belief." Certainly, very agreeable to those who can rest satisfied, but very eemed to resent :>ur intruding in this wild and uninhabited domain of theirs — at least they continued to swarm around us until we reached a more open country, which l)ecame diversified with a contmued succession of small lakes and rivers, amid the wildest scenery imaginable. At one particular pass, called the " Devil's Grip," the . road lay between huge masses of rock, varied with high mountains and dense forests, so that the scenery was beautifully romantic, wild and primitive. Jii this wild uncultivated region man is almost unknown, or rarely aeen ; except here and there a few individuals may be seen cleanng the ground by cutting down trees, and clearing away a spot of ground — called a clearing — whereupon tc build a few log huts constructed in the ludest fashion out of the timber cut down. The roads in these parts was of the roughest description, and consequently very unpleasant to travellers, constructed by laying logs of timber and trunks of small trees i' ) (~^ o o ,-^ O O t o o o o OcP 0° O 0° o C.I, ■ o " r, CD - 'o"^"' „°eemed to ainhabited to swarm itry, which »n of small Tiaginable. drip," the with high enery was a this wild i, or raitsly duals may own trees, clearing — ted in the The roads ption, and lonstructed imall trees I a. *i-»i(^v''5% -■-♦ m 33 across the road, and filling in the crevices with mud and earths-called corduroy roads. The country as we drove along became more fertile and picturesque, while the road every now and then passccl quite close to the river Kennebec. We passed a few Isolated clearings on which log huts were erected — s-emingly neither wind or water tight- each hut having a large barn attached, so much larger in comparison to the size of the dwelling that they looked very remarkable, but still moro so the numerous stumps of trees just above ground, scattered about in every direction for mile» around, gave the landscape a very uncultivated appear- ance, though wherever the land is somewhat cleared potatoes and wheat is grown, reserving sufficient grass to feed a cow or two. The coach stopped at a small country village, where we dined at a poor-looking inn. It is the custom in this part of the country to serve only tea even at dinner, which I thought very strange. I drank one cup of tea for the sake of following the fashion of this country, and then asked the landlord if he could supply me with a glass of beer, but that was not to be had for love or money, nor had they any cider. After much searching I obtained some bad brandy — my bad taste was not agreeable to brother Jonathan the landlord. I asked him why he did not keep a cask of beer in his establishment ? His answer was, " I guess water was better for health than either beer or spirits." "We started afterwardo, and at midnight arrived at a small village called Machias, where we were to rest for a few hours —very acceptable after all the shaking we had experienced on the road- I askfd " sailor fashion " for a soft plank to caulk on (a nautical term for a place to sleep on) which seemed to bewilder our travelling companions, as I heard them saying to each other, what does he want ? "A caulking place," what can he mean by that ? However, the people of the inn were able to provide us with beds, so we enjoyed four hours' sound, sleep until we were awoke to resume our journey. 4 O °o i 0,0 "■> „ ^« „„ O ° o °»o I? ° ° . ^ , S o r. .oo o ; )■ OO ,°'^ ,^»= o" 0°° o " o> ° „o o "^ O 0°0 OoOoo, ^ O O O „ o n ° o o % ° ° ° „" » ° .,0 o° O^o OOo o°o"l P ^ ^ o O o <7o, 'o' ■,'n O "J y CO Co o o o- o O °o° ° I ° °o o^^ 00°^. °o o °ooV»: O O 0^ „oO°c?°, CO oO_ oc? O o 00 „ ° ° OOO o 0° =1. .2" „■ ° O ° °° CO " ■ O 00 Oo"^" n C U O O o ^ CO ^0 O ° 00°° 'i n O 1 ^0°o °o"„°l O ^ O g, 00 „ o O 0.^ » o O ° O o =WJI . o° ool ^O O o r? ' ■J0° ° *-' c, o Sj= % si Oo „o " o°°o a " I o n ° o ^00 °o a ''^^ „ o-^ o '', """ol ° ci%/„„ "-*°s;°,v o Q 1 O O ° ^ °0° ° to °»° ° ^Jr, ° o' S . °°°°ooo :° a o coog! OO 0' O Oo °°o °o o^ ,0 O-O o °o o O " 0°° °° „° ""^ o° < OO o 0°00°„cO °S, „o° ° . O o nVP- 'i ° oo^.. o 'f ■-')•" ■ ,y' ' »» '.. • ° r . » ■■'Vs-".". •' '•,. -Vw-M. !..•../ . ; /■ .•'■V •.,•■;••.'.•■ c-'-'vvJ' •.''■'* r--. ./ •■••■.,.•■.:. • ■«•*.=•■. .>;;-.r.' ■vfV--:-')rj-;:....-.:' ^.v,'-.-v.-V'«' ■^ ^ .. •'.•:•■••■ -"fo*' .T- •'.•«'■•••'•. •\"- • "i' ■■•••-. :'-'::*"..'vc'- •-■•.•/>;•• 1 « " " " /° .v '^ . -oV • • •• • *. ° • . > • I ■.•... 1 1 , % o^-.o.*. . ••.•..°. o- .!. ,!• .• • . • ' . ,. ..-■I' ..•: . ■'• 8. ;.• • v.. i.o-,- „.• ...♦•. °^ .» 8 .••••'.„. ..p..;s-..» .••,i->- ■'.••. « • » I :t^"^;v^°. ^^''.^f^^;^ :.>:=:.\-^/" o %: -'^^^^^^^v;'-- ••.>::-^-^:,4^': • * ■{, .. So ' O •.»'• »>.''.•.■• ".f.^o l"". . = .,00 1 . " O.V° °°°° •5 «^' .O." o o'5> g "o • ">• • V ^ o" "'s" ^h°July? Left at 3 30 am. in the same coach in veiy'^;/ ° " o" ^^ggy weather, and at 1 p m. arrived at Enstport, State of ■ • ° •* / ^ " '^ci'^l^aiDe, a small town sitiuited on Moose Island, connected i. '' j . ''' o. /to the mainland by a bridge, and borders the pea ; but ° '".^''^ ^ °° %o "'o „ ^"othe fog was too dense to pee far, or much of the town. "•' Eastport had suffered lately from a grent fire, which ^°^o ° 'fc:i destroyed many store houses, with their contents. We °o]. "o^ «^°°o dined at the table d'h6te at 2 p.m. The landlord, a sea- „ *'■ - ° o'b »", n»faring looking character, presided at one end of the • *•. '\l t • °y»Ji p °|able, and his fair spouse at the other end. Our party ° - '^ j '>,<><•: "insisted of Yankee merchant captains, mates, &q;'>"Thft° °°. '^..'i^- " ""o'o^^pner was good, but not well served. ° ""°° » ' '. "^o " f 'iJth. Left Eastport at 11.30 a.m., during a thick fog, , ^ ^ ^^-v ° ,db board the Nova Scotia steamer. When dinner was \i' '. '^ o announced I took a place for my friend by my side, but °o* ';;'?' ?\°oo° when he joined me he asked me ♦o exchange seats, so I '\^\'l. . i- /°o° -o^got up, and immediately an old man in a very dingy /^./''f,;*. oil; *\ ,] '•- f°° \Bi:Own dress quietly slipped into my seat, though I told • ..*•..' ,* II C'.' ' Kim it was engaged. " Oh, yes," be answered, " I guesS^ I /°* .* " s^i...>; • •: o°°oknow it is," adding, "you ought to have kept your plade' ' "ijV; • " f** » /V-when you had it." This raised my dander, as " Sam ; °.'/.*.' ' •• '.[ ^i' ,0 ^ ^^ ^c31ick " would say, po opened upon him a broadside of •" •".'. Vt^ * 1 .• J 6 sa . o" o o cplick would say, po opened upon mm a broadside or • .•. '„ ^ °<^o° o ^ "growls, but the old fellow remained immovable until 'jk«:\-.v. ° he had fini.shed his dinner, and then walked away with- J 'Jf ^^ , . I> " ^., ,t . "S,'. o', OS* . • .o*J . ^ CO* • •, .• «■ ^ .^ . * • "•./'.••..■'" •' O. ° o fo°out saying a word. After dinner 1 was walking up gi°. .a .<4 ^■°a and down the deck, when to my astonishment the same y/ ^ ^ / Oo-?. old inan came and apologised for his rudeness, hoping I ' %^ " % o °° ^ould not think any more of the little fraca at dinner^ S^ hinting that he did not know wholwas. Howheobtained I ^^ any information about me was a puzzle, for certainly my • °''°' dress, covered with mud and diit, did not give me the o Oj Oitj)pearance of a British Naval officer ; nevertheless we ' ° made it up and became good friends. The Americans o'^ °^ o we found are fond of slanging the Britisher, but on the o P o o 8„ O o° o • > .1"* 0° whole they don't like to offend personally, for fear I ^ ^ o suppose of something Engli.sh " Bookmakers " may write " , ^5"^ against them. The fog was so dense that it waa o o o o o o o o o ,0 jV ■:?^-rv.:.'«r^^';v^- . - • Igjii^iBi"' •• , - ■' ••• h in veij»*'^?i°'.'' t, State of " •* fonnected "■. pea : but the town, e, which nts. We 'o jrd, a sea- id of the )ur party • «• hick fog, nner was side, but ieats, so ery dingy. •-o'.A.- '•'fe.'i'" .'.••■ ■ ■ '■ ■- ''■■'.':■■■ :,'■■■ ■ ■v--'-<:'? ,v ■'■'■••■»' o- - !■.• ■'=■,-■■..'.■>-,■■■■.■■ \ 'j'-^.';'-' •.:•.••-(•;>•■./•• ■t-;^ ,• .•.■ •• . • •. /• • . . .^ . V •.'•-.,;;'■ • ?. .• •• pi??^-/ •>••' ;v!^-^'.!:* • >...-V >l•■\^• /■•^■^-■•;^V/;f^^.:■c■• * ''"^ impossmfij ■ t(fi see furl hVr th/in a tidat's length *'a'heai|■,V^;^.^'•;":■^'.■,;^ • t ^''.vand the compass was seemingly much out of order, s6.''-yy''C-.-':-f>;, °. '.*.•., that it was necessary to keep heaving the lea4\- .'\-l^;'i:'}-.' .". V." • •• •*>'/^; continually ; but notwithstanding every precaution the;'/'\,i;.y.:;4.';;;v. •' t ' "• •••fileamer would have run onshore had not the fog lil'te;di.-\y:.' ■*/.=. C' " • ;*5i'-^:P» trifle, enabling us to see the land close ahead with'>:-is''i';: ._',•■• '*:*ff.•. Bufl!icient time to back astern out of danger, and thetfYi.'-'^'' '• . t'"^- ''*H-V coming to anchor. After a while the anchor was hova,- ;v;V'. ;• • ;;; '^ • ** '.%'; up again and the steamer proceeded in anothet;! ,'•'/ is*;"*.'*' du'ection towards St. John's harbour. No one unac-".^v;:'.5v:> ,' '".* .*•'•• customed to fogs at sea can possibly conceive iheiVr^-''^!^-- ■ ■'.' ■■ ,-•■. ./•■*■••••• ..•;^;'-,'.v=-.'"'<-- : -.■.'■-•r.v. ■■••!■.'••'> v'i^^'V-- i'.-''i:,- '.?^**-i-«>-< :■ ■ :■' .»;■■•:■'•:■.:.■■• -■--■.■-vV' ■Va^:^^;;,,!^ ^^>^•■^.,. -^^C^ ■'..;■.';■;■'>>'■'-'• ■ ■ ' • ^:..-''- ..;V/;. ■; ■••/•■;;■■■;;■/' jl-r;,- : v^..''.; *?:-.>.; --''jv ^r,;^/ Avv^':^ - s, ■ o waywith-„°, ^/.'f^^^ liking n^.y.^'^ .4 the same^' hoping I it dinner, jobtained iainlymy ° ^ e me the heless we imericansc ■' ut on the ^ ^ " o 'or fear Io°°'',3 ° nay write ° t it waft o British territory agail ^ o°" about the severel streets ° si very foggy the persons of health, especially o „^ evidently foggy weather agrees with them. o = o°o° The following morning (10th,) we started ••in-'H)'*' ''4 .* ^J ..I ° 0° ^ Bt earner "Nova Scotia' to cross over to the opposite''.'. • '"• - •' o° p coast, Nova Scotia, having >Dn board as passengers.-'- O" ^ Mr. and Mrs. Robinson, Gonimissariat I)epartmfeiit,V. •■ • qO Mr. Allen, Royal Artillery, and several of .the'"!' . o o °c Wesleyan clui'gy. .The steamer left the wharf at 8 a.m., entering" a|i.qn.c§':*into the Bay of Fundy.itjl'e^. ,• ^ markable for fiavi:'-*g 'th6 highest tides in the wbH^'"?;^ o o ,0 aV rising 60 or 70 feet. It is an inlet of the Atlantic', "• ' °° ° 140 miles in length and 45 in breath and very aubjedt-'',!'-* ".'' • • • 'o • ••"•»*• • .<•..• • .1-.. V ' V V .',•;•• ■■ ■ —■■■■'■■ '■■','. .0-^ :•■'-. fA^-\:"K ;r. ■■ ^^vj^'.-'v-v-y^-^-.^^vvM^^i '.' ■■ • -V :■ ■■ - • \ ■ "» ••. •■ •.:•. " <::■■ •'•■ -j y.:-\ -^v^- -s: .., ••. .i- t/U- :•'. »,;;'.■:..•■ .•:■ : '.n •••;/»••• ■/ :'l\. ■■■•'•• ■ ,--^>-:-:'\Tm!^^' ■;■,■. •.,■,• ••'*• .:■.■■ .v,,.- .... ) ....-•• ...... • .•■•', •■.•••;V--;.' '••..■ ;.-'7v: V-vv:. . ^:•;>v^•. •••;•■ <■•?v■';/^w'.^'••'■;^••^'v'^■ i^-:; '.^^i^'-^^^ .:-.; "W-'~- '.: ••■•.•'■ •'■•>.; •/■ ^ : ;^'-;.f^ /•..■■.' -■ V.;. ;;\v::.^.v-;-4\^V •^^•.f:/•^. ■.,;•.•'■-. ./••.•'•;% ;":0;-.;.'*J^- , i;.v;;/,^^-V:.Y'^Jrv..;-l::,^-;: ::^-v.: =!•,..••• v; ^'/;".VV.-C''-->:V>''t^;:. '•"' 'v^i-'. ■'•••' y. ''V; ■'■',;■; V''>:f: • ;> . •■.'>•.-•'..'■•„■/,'•■■•' ■.•.• " sh'''';V ' .'.,-'»"f5i% / ■■.■ ^•..:' -f ■•'-/:::': ■•'■■•■.V^;;■•;•^••^■• •^;.■V•.^■:•v'•.;^•? v^-C- ''%-^^v' ■••v>••:■^^^^«^•:;^^•v/^•..^;;i;/•::^:^^^■■'•^;.^.c^;'^•••^:i.v^^^^ iii^limimmtmmmm >liiMpWliiWMlWM* I i : ■ 36 to fogs. The fog to-day was fo dense that we made little progress, and had to anchor in the evening, when the crew caught a great quantity of cod. After tea Mr. Allen and myself went to the steeragje cabin, on deck, to have a smoke and a quiet chat. Afterwards we proposed to descend to the saloon for a glass of grog, but on hearing the sound prettily situated on the Banks of the river Avon. The rush of passengers from the steamer to get booked by the stage coach on the point of leaving for Halifax, was so great that Mr. Marshall, Mr. Allen, and myself hi re J a wagon, so-called in this country, but in England is called a dog-cart, to carry us to Halifax, a distance of 45 miles. We left at 1 p.m., and passed en route several small lakes and rivers, forests of birch and fir trees, but on the whole, the country did not appear to be over cultivatfd. At 8 p.m., stopped at a village called Falkes, a favourite retreat for the people of Halifax in the summer season, and especially for young married couples to spend their I'oneymoon. After dinner resumed our journey, and when it became dark, myriads of fire-flys ou each side of the road gave this part of the ride an enlivening and pleasing reminiscence. Arrived at Halifax at 10 p.m., and immediately repaired on board the " Pique," having travelled in 19 days (including stoppages), by Steamer, Coach, and Bail, nearly 1,800 miles. ■5 '4 m m m m ♦ MMHWIiii it we made ning, when After tea 3 cabin, on terwarda we uss of grog, oming from used b}' all g; assembled e Wesleyan sermon he e to attend, our uteamer the flowing beautiful as ontinued so ia") prettily The rush of l)y the stage vas so great \-ed a wagon, is called a of 45 miles, veral small rees, but on to be over Uage called f Halifax in irig married fter dinner ark, myriads this part of sceuce. iumieiiiately travelled in , Coach, and 5 '4 # >. «'; '.* i*T<4l/ m. ^•:m.^ * »' '0' '• m m, '# »5 #' r«; •) * ,# (•j .•.♦. .a •f'v '^^^'^M^M^^^&^^^^'-