IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) h // y. .A* :/, 1.0 I.I 11.25 lii|M |2.5 ■50 "^^ MSB MUi- iiiiim U IIIII16 V] ^ # ^^.^ "^V^'^ ''T' ■?»• / '/ ///, Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 m iV iV '.^ -^ ^\ '^\ <* #> CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Note* technique* et bibliographiques Th to The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checlced below. Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ D Couverture endommag4e Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurAe et/ou pelliculAe I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes gAographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ D D Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ ReliA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr^e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intirieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout6es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela dtait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6tA film^es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplimentaires: L'Institut a microfilm* le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a At6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique. qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mAthode normale de filmage sont indiquAs ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur D D D D D Pages damaged/ Pages endommagAes Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurAes et/ou pellicul6es Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages dicoiortes, tachet6es ou piqutes Pages detached/ Pages d^tachdes Showthrough/ Transparence I I Quality of print varies/ QuaiitA InAgaie de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel supplAmentaire Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partlellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc.. ont 6t4 filmtes A nouveau de fagon A obtenir la meilleure image possible. po of fill Or be th 8i( oti fir 8i( or Th sh Til wl IVIi dil en be rig ret m( This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmA au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X -- v/ 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Harold Campbell Vaughan Memorial Library Acadia University L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grAce & la gAnArositA de: Harold Campbell Vaughan Memorial Library Acadia University 7ii9 images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Les images suivantes ont At6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la netteti de l'exemplaire film*, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other oiiginal copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — »> (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim6e sont fil:n*s en commenpant par le premier plat et en tr.rminant soit par la derniire page qui comporte une ompreinte d'impressicn ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selori le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmte en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN ". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames aa required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 i partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite. et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Rambles in an Ancient Colony terra nova :^ Book L To THE Old Capitals by the New Way James Rupert Eluottt MC3M[ i^ii^^c /v CU^i>^^' > ^'^^-^^ Moonlight on tiie Huiiibcf. By S H. Parsoiib Ramhlks in an Ancient Colony By tiik Banks and the Bergs Terra Nova iooh I To THE Old Capitals by the New Way BY JAMES RUPERT ELLIOTT Author of "American Farms." "Rambles m Merrie, Merrie England," etc. PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR BOSTON A.D. MCM /. CONTENTS Introduction Ill The Approach by Cabot Straits By Cape Ray and by Treaty Coast to Bay of Islands . . 7 Two Charming Days at a Newfoundland Outport ... 36 Crossing the Ancient Colony by Rail Arrival and First Impressions g ,^/j^V^^" REMARKS The illustrations of this work :'.re from photo^jraphs by Miss Holloway, Mr. James Vey. Mr. Parsons, Mr. Grey, Mr. Brotherton, and others, whose Ivindness has rendered it possible for the author to place before the public satisfactorily the scenery of Newfoundland. J R E :^;»Ur*i»'--' ., ' >^''' INTRODUCTION ^ It is only recently that the rich resources of the " Old Colony," discovered by Cabot four hundred years ago, have become known even to the inhabitants of that country. And because it appears so new, and even undeveloped in many respects, its age and the veneration due it are appreciated by the student and close observer only. Newfoundland contains intensely interesting areas for the researches of the geographer, the geologist, and the metallurgist, and also possesses many delights for the artist and poet, who cannot fail to be inspired by the beauties of its scenery. Here, ni TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY also, the lover of sports or the leisurely feasting on the riches of nature, will find delightful recreation by forest and stream. In and about Newfoundland, close up among the floating glaciers, are places where nature displays the wildest, boldest forms, and then again charms one with her serenity and love- liness. Here it is one finds those legends and stories which sometimes greatly amuse, and then again stir the very soul with their thrilling adventures. It is because of these histories, one may gather by travel among the beautiful scenery, that its peculiar and wonderful objects are doubly interesting. So that the earnest scholar visiting Newfoundland for philosophical research will not only learn of the remarkable productions and enjoy them, and also enjoy to the full the wild and beautiful scenery, but will acquire new knowledge about its unique customs and language, and will learn much of the peculiarities, traditions, sorrows, faiths, and hopes of this people. Newfoundland has been, and is, thought of by the world at large as an island far out in the wild ocean, new, primitive and undeveloped. This, in a way, may be true ; yet the thoughtful student who makes a tour of the country, travelling Its long, rugged, jagged, weather-beaten mountains; its great expanses of straggling forests ; its worn water-courses • its acres of beach rolled in from the sea ; its settlements abounding with rehcs and traditions of days long gone by ; its huge old weather- stained business establishmems, denoting the customs of past times, will be greatly impressed with the thought of its un- known past -its unwritten and forgotten history. iv To THE Old Capitals by the New Way TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY THE APPROACH BY CABOT STRAITS On an evening in the early part of September we step on board the S S. " Bruce," at North Sydney/, Cape Breton, to take passage to Port aux Basques ; a port at the southwest ex- tremity of Newfoundland, close in beside Cape Ray. Light house at Entrance to Port aux Basques We are apt to consider, by what we have believed good authority, that between Cape Breton and Port aux Basques lies the highway of the seas, over which only the daring and adven- turous would care to journey. But here we are tonight confi- dently looking forward to a speedy and comfortable passage over the Cabot Straits ; full of anticipation of what is to be learned of the land discovered four hundred years ago by him whose name these Straits bear. TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY We are now out upon this water, with the Gulf of St. Law- rence at our left, and the limitless expanse of the Atlantic, and the starry uni ... noint to increased brilliancy. Soon we are able to trace the irregular rocky coast ; following ,t around to the left a view is obtained of the end of the mountam range which forms Cape Ray. Far out upon the end of its rocky pomt is the beacon- hght. still faithfully at its good work of guiding the mariner The welcome harbinger of day is coming apace, and the streak in the east grows wider and more beautiful in colour Gradually it is shaded delightfully from the dark yellow to the brilliant orange, while the rocky mountains by the coast assume all the shades of the lead colour by the water side, to the richest THE AP PROACH BY CABOT STRAITS purple at the.r summits ; blending all this glory with the splen- dour of the yellow sky above, and making it all a gorgeous picture. "The great beacon fire of the sun" burns out. the mountain tops are gilded, and the orchestra of the wilds begin to hum their welcome. The little homes by the sea _ the village of Channel and the more scattered hamlets- sparkle in these first rays of the rising sun, as if they too were on fire, but that other beacon upon the rocks at the Cape has given up its effort. It is indeed true that no atmosphere is so conducive as this for those marvellous gradations of colour which are dependant SS. "Bruce" arrived at Port aux Basques upon the peculiarly rare air of these latitudes. Mariners have told us before of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and its brilliant sky effects, but the half could not be told. Would not a Ruskin exult in this ! TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY The fleet, staunch ship bears us rapidly in by the coast ; and now we are passing that beacon which marks the way to the entrance of Port aux Basques. In this beacon we find an inter- esting object, not only pleasing to the eye, but because it repre- sents a structure from which issues at regular intervals, in stormy weather, a danger signal to anxious mariners by the coast ; an automatic gun, which ever does its duty, whether the keeper be awake or sleeping. We are informed that this one, and the one on Cape Spear, near the entrance to St. John's harbour, are the only structures of the kind on this side of the Atlantic. We glide smoothly and rapidly to our moorings, and thus ends a very pleasant and comfortable trip across the Cabot Straits. TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST TO BAY OF ISLANDS Having passed through the formality of a customs entry. WL- find ourselves located on the " Cross Country Train." The only incident to disturb our serenity of mind during this usually trying ordeal is an attempt on the part of the " Bruce " luggage department to hoist our heavy trunk about thirty feet out of the hold of the ship to the wharf by the trunk strap, although we had simply placed it around the trunk as a safety, should the lock give way. They, it seemed, chose to consider it put there for their convenience. Fortunately, however, the strap broke before the trunk left its resting place. Nevertheless this is but a trifle, so must not disturb us thus early in our Cross Country experiences. We expect to enjoy them very much.i Our train (the " Bruce Train," or " Cross Country Train -) is one that performs a large number of important functions, and in its own way is equipped for the various needs of a long journey, where little for comfort or convenience is supposed to be found at the stoppings. Its arrangements are peculiar. We NOTE i.-rROM NOTES BY CROSS COUNTRY TRIP, DECEMBER 22, ,8,9. in.t -,' Jl'vf^ ^'^ "l!'"^' °"' ^'^ telescope bag by its strap, and away the strap goes just as the one about our trunk did on that September morning. Another and greater subject of .nterest is the effort of the customs officer of the^ort, as he pro- Tht; r \^ rf ^ '^"^'''I'y "f °"'" '=^'•8°' ''^^""'='1 f°- St. John's, into bond ma^'nwket of that'c^r^r' turkey and other meats to go with us for'the cEns - TuL^t\\ K u I- ^° f'"' "'^"'^ properly m bond, so that that barbarism. uchTV 'tfJ"' perpetuated, fifty gummed t.ck .ts, of about ten squaTe nches have each to be placed upon these fifty cases. The officer manfully perl he h":: f '^' ^*"^f-^"' five hundred inches of gummed surface is made ready for the boxes by one wilhng and hvely tongue on this frosty morning. TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY note this fact in a general way during the few moments of our change from the boat to the train, and when starting off. For our attL-ntion is soon directed to the glimpses which we catch, as we move out upon our journey, of the great works of nature displayed here upon every side. It is a unique country, not to be forgotten, — although we have, to our regret, but a few instants to look at any particular picture. The rock and water scenes vary so constantly upon this irregular coast, and the road-way winds about in such a circuitous manner, that we find ourselves entertained by a veri- table, ever-changing panorama. A few miles to our left stretches out that extreme end of Cape Ray, wht-iu its light stands that light so often eagerly Scene by Say Mountains looked for by the mariner who comes this way in his coursing up and down the gulf. Near us to the right is the lofty range 8 BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST of Kay Mountains, which extend far away into the interior of the island. Their towering rock peaks are landmarks, and give a general ,dea of the course we are running ; though we see then) .n so .nany different aspects, and with such differing com Sleeper in a Drift binations between -- one moment on the sands at the sea-side then climbing the rock hill, and then a stretch of heath rolls' between us. Now on our left are the broad waters of the gulf rolling their tidal way far beyond our vision. •• NOTE .. -FKOM NOTES ON CROSS COUNTRY rR„.. MAY ,, ,8,g aux Basques for help^^.a w^Ter anc coal r , '"^'"" 1"'^ ^one on to Per, and qu.te near the coaTl Jhlll Cf fu- "^ ^^ "'' "^"^ ^^^ ^^V Mountains; been blown upon the ra ^7,^/;^,,^.^^';;;,'^- snow blockade, the drifting sands had were sweeping down f-om the r^onr^t T"^ th. trams. Now squalls of snow -.a.kd>dasbUand!hu"apctrec?;";:nfc;:^ofl'r '* T^^ ' '^^^^ '^^>'- ^'"^ Not far from here was th^ see e of ,h " - » ^r"'"""'^ ^'""'^ '" P^^««'-^^d. blown twenty feet from th. track hv one of h. ^ r .tT""""'', ^^^^" » '"i" ^^^ down the Rav Mountain t'orges ""'' '"^^'^ ''"°^"' ^hich came TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY These glimpses remind us that we are still by the coast. It IS but a few instants only that we can have such assurances at any time, for the rocky points and massive barren islands are constantly cutting off the more extended vision. v 'f'lfA' , , *:'; ■ ■ :p'^:v •r. ■» ■'■' i : t'f ■ ' ' Tlie Siifrar-Loaf, Ray Mountains What rocks • What sharp, unrelentmg points pierce the sea . And then what perfect havens behind ! It is indeed a wonderful piece of God's creation. An hour has sped rapidly since our departure from Port aux Basques, and so far we have only seen rock and water scenery But we are now makmg a plunge inland, to a wooded country. The birch, the spruce, and the larch are becoming stronger and more lofty, indicating that the soil must be deep and good, and not too rocky. And there are splendid - almost tropical- lO BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST feathery ft- rns behind the deep evergreens. And what beautiful wild Howers in the open spaces ! And what rich colouring ! The wild weeds are almost gross in their immense, broad, dark leaves. Hert- Nature seems to be making a special effort to display the rich and tht- strong in vegetation. In the midst of these bounties and this luxuriant growth, this beautiful day, it IS hard for one to believe the assertions made, that this is a country where, for a considerable portion of each year, existence for man is intolerable. As we want to hx these particular spots upon our memory, and have something which will recall all this beauty to us again ,so far we have found no railway literature to supply any clue tn our whereabouts), we venture to ask the conductor, who is polite, and apparently very obliging, if he has anything in this line. With a beaming countenance of friendliness the good fellow produces a very long sheet of legal cap, with a type- written time-table, giving the names of all the various stations upon the 548 miles of road over wh oh we are to travel to reach St. John's. It IS perused with much interest, for the names of the stations are quite new and strange, suggesting many con- jectures as to their origin, and what circumstances made them a mark in the history of the country. And we devoutly hope that this history may be perpetuated through these very names.' NOTE 3 NOTh. FROM DIARY ON CROSS COUNTRY TRIP, MAY, .899. ,h. M.T*'/'' '^'f '■''"^' '^'■''.'''"ate tnne-tabk-, which describes the chances of travel bv the Newfoundland Railway. We are not pleased, however, with the liben ha^ someone has taken ,n altering so many of the names of the stations It makes us wonder why people persist in changing the histo-ic names of places, which commemorate events in the history of ,he country, to others of little or no import- ance, with apparently the one object ot pleasing a fancy. Government might take a hand to advantage as regards this. ^ II TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY mak he 1 T '" °" "'"^' '"'■ "'^""■- ""' -"""«- n-" done 'rr' '"'"'""°" °' " ''™'-- ^° ''-^' "^ has already m°!h, ? ? "'"""" "" "^■"■">' '^"^'^"" We wish ,ha. we mightinakethewholetrip with hill, Whii "I Willi null. While we runimatp thno tne route, -- a twenty. nine hours' ride. View of Codroy Station 12 BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST assert. Upon the top is mounted a cross — so much the better for the station it is presumed. Horses and waggons are evidently owned here ; for a little distance away, fastened to a tree, is a veritable horse with his waggon ; the first out-fit of this kind which has been seen since landing. Quite a number take the train at Codroy, about fifty labour- ers, and of particular note, a Roman Catholic priest, and a doctor. And now we begin again to become interested, and to enquire of those whom we have for travelling companions. This becomes an important matter where the passengers are quite limited in number, and may be one's familiar neighbour for several days. The conductor very complaisantly informs us that one of the owners and managers of the road is with us in another com- partment ; and also a distinguished gentleman and his wife - the gentleman a successful merchant, or merchant's confidential agent. There is also among us a gentleman bound for a point up the coast, who is in charge of a gang of men witli appliances for conducting an oil enterprise. We are told that the railway magnate of the Island is a partner in this worthy adventure. The oil operator is communicative, and tells much about his experiences in former undertakings of this kind. He will soon leave us and take sail for further up the coast. We question how long it will be before his enterprise has passed the pioneer stage to become a subject for the clutches of a greedy Rockefeller or his agent, out of which a fat margin may be made to bribe legislators, and hypnotise Divines. We find the doctor an agreeable companion, and we are soon engaged in conversation with him. He came down the coast from Bay of Islands to Codroy in order to extend his professional 13 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY services to a young man who had just been seriously injured by a railway accident. It seems a long distance, but doctors are as rare, or nearly so, as horses in this country. The leading members of the communities, at the out- harbours, have to guarantee a considerable amount to the phy- sician before he will venture to settle among them. A good portion of their services will, however, go for little or no return aboutT' ''' '"'°' ""'^' " °"^ '' ^^^^^'-"^^^ ^- -nformation about this interesting spot, and he seems to understand it quite scientifically, and administers a wholesome and liberal potion - but not a counter-irritant. We must not lose touch with him ; for we have learned that parL'n" : "'" •'"'' '^°" '°"^' ^° '^ °" ^^^ "^'^^ ^^^ °^ ^he parson, the magistrate, and the doctor. And we find they are all very important individuals in this corner of creation this venerable Colony.' A Church of England clergyman joined us at Port aux Basques. From him we gain valuable information about this ^Fir./r'' '■ "''°^'' '^''°'^ ^'^"^^ COUNTRY UIARY MAY ,doa wh.ch havl taS;r^S: — '^,--[-'Hn, con.pan,o„;on one o^ these tr.p, and super.n.eneiant of the Church of England schn ? TT'°'''' '^ '^' ^specto a very intelligent irentleman -.nZ. ^"S'a'i'i schools of the Colony. He annears affairs, of vvhl-h K^rn.^on .t gt^e"" the^Zt "'""' ^"' "^ ^""^^'''>' ^^ cX,i man IS from the eastern part of Nova S-nnlM!''"''','"." '"""■ ^""'her gentle- ■n connection w,th the iron n° nes ot th ? • , ^rT'"^ ^"' ^'^^ ^^'-^ °" business aimly, from Michigan and tl e L.t ^ mineral Isle. And another is, with his Whitney areas m th.s count v hint n'^T' ^'"""^' ''&'"" Prospecfng on the ^om British Columbia, where ie harh" " "'"'°"" ^'"'^'^ ^''''^'^'' Anothe is I^ac.fic. Besides these, There are two n" f^"^^^?"'"^ "^"^ Seal Fishery of he journey to Europe. Then in anothe'car^sT N^ '""'n^ >'"'' returning 'from a inrwi'thV""^"' ^"^^'- 'helatewar we%a,^fm""''"'^^"'^° ^^''^^^ '" ^^e ■ng with his regiment the eic-hth l^r. » , "^ °"'>' '* ^^w days ago march- H usTr!r"'^ A"'^"^ ^--^ aVtK hours o,' t^hT'tr n'°'"" '° °"^ cLve'rsaTon 's o ,h u°^^"^' '° 'his island of the fisherv L if ""^ ^^f ''^''- '^^'^ '« another the north -men of such wide e.^^^iS^r^^I^^'tie;;:;— ^rij^:^ '"^"^^ BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST coast. We learn through his conversation that even here, so far from the busy world, zealous, earnest followers of Christ have thought there were human beings worth labouring among, and human souls to save. Although between the settlements in the summer the only mode of travel :s by water, in the winter h has. in most cases been by land (in some the only way), the rivers, the harbours and the bays being all froxen over. Then the clergyman's power of endurance, his courage, his faith, his love for his Master's vv-ork. and his brother's eternal good are sorely tried. We are told of how. many years ago in this neighbourhood a clergyman of the EngHsh Church by the name of Eoland while' leaking his way from settlement to settlement, in one of the cruel storms which sweep this coast, perished from exhaustion and cold. ■ Think of a parish work extending over a wild country, fifty or a hundred miles, and only here and there a bit of road over which a carriage or sleigh can be conveyed. Think of a tramp danger was apprehended bv hi>. L ^ T. 7 t '"^'''rowers are soon extinct. No St. George. -settle. nents, hrst of Channel, and afterwards of Bay Rev. Wr^S::;iSwan=^a"onte^^';:i ^L f'''"' ■■? Newfoundland, twelve years arduous service m the n l^sio. of rh , ""u' ""^ J"^"' '^^^' ^^'" conveying- him home dte^a v, .f '"^'°'\"f Channel, with two others who were 15 TO THE OL D CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY Of eight or ten miles over a barr-.n waste, in a blinding snow- storm, and the night coming on. Many thrilling tales are told of how the early missionaries of the Cross have laboured, have endured, and have finally given their lives in sacrifice for their work of love." At forty-sevt^n miles from Port aux Basques the clergyman of the Church of England parts from us. He has six miles to walk in order to reach the next scene of his priestly labours. It is now ten o'clock, and we are stopping to take water for the engine in the depths of a fine hardwood forest. This would be a choice spot for the settler to make his start ; building his cabin exactly where the tram must stop for water. Here are stumps of trees lately felled which measure three feet in diam- eter. We leave our car while the train stands, to pluck a leaf from a huge weed. The trefoil leaf spreads out eighteen inches by eighteen inches. A start is made. It is greatly up grade. We have learned that our tram travels up and down hill a great deal ; all around the hills, too. so that it appears sometimes as though our engine must be turned abcut and returning. We have not gone very far before the train i. brought to a standstill, but not by the will of the train officials. We cannot proceed, so back the whole NOTK . -_NOTBS ON ^^^S n.OM ST^ JOHN S TO POHT .UX BASQUES, ' the cJ::,.^^^^^'^, '^C'E^^t Z.:l:'r r""'^^' Jeno„.natio„s of trine. One appears to be express Lh^ter.n 'I'^ciu.s.on on pomts of doc- heard, so we Vet the full^,1vant , J^'^f ,? -^ '"''^'''- ^"^^^^ ^° "°' ^'n^ beinP heretic. This ,s onlv on, -^nl- ^ 'n their op.n.ons. We like the candour of the student, as he con"es mo . a^id ^u're nT'""°". °' '^"" "^^ ''^°f°'"^^* -^^ =^-'0- torms less,.n his hear ^ ^n fix , ,"" '""^°'''T T^ "'" ^"''' Master, con- K.ves to the creature To nMsnre, r K '^•'^'^''^'' '^"^ possibilities that all //,,. grandeurs. ,s g.ven to no one "'"''' '"'' '^'^ ^'^I^"^^' '^^ .^or.es and the 16 BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST goes for a good start from the hill we left behind. Off again, and up to the oprosite hill-top at full speed, and soon we are whirling through most delightful scenery. At the right, now and again, are distant, but fine views of the lofty Ray Mountains, mostly immense bare rocks, naked as when first thrown into these great winnows : sometimes with deep gulches or ravines indenting their massive sides, where a stunted soft wood, and bush life are seen. Now and then a lake is passed, resting by the base of these towering rocks. All the lakes are called ponds here. One wishes that these fertile forest spots might always be such a delightful variety to this new, old country; but in time the fire will sweep past, and destroy them, or the short sighted settler will not rest content to clear only that which he wants for cultivation, but he will cut away so much that the strong winds (that will then have their way) will do the rest, and his crops will be blown down, and the days will be rougher, and the spring and summer will be shorter; and he may rue the day he sought a home here. Thus it has been elsewhere, and so it may be in this place. This is the time to provide against unnecessary destruction of this kind. Near Robinson's Head is a fine view of the entrance to Bay St. George. And resting half way up a mountainside, across an arm of water, we catch a glimpse of a prettily situated village clustered about one large church, which it is presumed is Roman Catholic. Most of the communities about the coasts seem to be of one religious faith. The strongest must survive, and the weakest die out, or migrate. All deviations from the principal 17 TOTHE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY rel.g.on ,„ust be of a privat. character, The very next com- inun.ty may h,, d a tctally (iUicrcnt cast of religious thought and practice. As the run ,s made beside Kobiusons Brook or River - and then upon a high elevation farther on. there is a line view of the vale of the kob.nsoa District, of the sweep of land lying beyond, and of the range ot rocl:y hillocks far out by the sea. By our track the soil appears d.ep and fertile, and not too stony 'or stren,ih.the huge boulders scattered through this section of the country being the only apparently useless element. The river, .uui brooks are very numerous along this part of the coast, ami m this immediate vicinity is excellent trout fish- ing. Perhaps no better is to be found anywhere. At this season these water-courses aie not carrying a heavy flow of water, but their broad bottoms, the heaps of stones piled up here and there, and the jagged banks, all indicate that at t.nu.s great forces of water How down from the lofty mountains The huge ma.ses of snow which rest upon these mountain ranges m winter mus. thaw with great rapidity when exposed to the rays o. the warm spring sun. Even here the sun shmes very intensely, so we are told, so intensely that the rocks become hot with us heat. Crabb s Brook, which we are passing, must sometimes be a great rapid river. And now we are climbing a h-.vy grade beside a deep ravine, each new view of the beautiful panorama becoming more interesting and delightful Near Robinson's Head hes. so far as they can ascertain by prospecting, one of the principal coa, deposits of the Colon^f Mr. . P. Howley. P. C. S.. director of the Geological Survey of New.oundland. made the ofhcial report of the nine, or ten, coal i8 BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY seams in these rcKions. varying from one foot two inches to five feet four inches, and of fairly good quality. Of this he said : ~ " Altogether, the coal seams contained in St. George's Bay trough, that have as yet been discovered, aggregate about twenty- seven feet in thickness. * >' * To illustrate the importance of what such information would mean, it may be stated that an aggregate of twenty-seven feet of coal, provided the seams main- tained their ascertained thickness throughout, should, for every square mile of superficial area they may be found to underlie, contain 25,920,000 tons of coal." At Red Rocks, near Cape Ray. is a bed of copper, and very large and valuable gypsum deposits are found about the Codroy district, and St. George's Bay." In connection with our geological enquiries we ask the oil operator if there is not coal in the vicinity of his oil discovery. He replies : " No. not necessarily. In Russia there are no indi- cations of coal where the best oil wells are located." We are now told that all must now take a look at the " Horseshoe," for we are at Fischel's. The " Horseshoe " is the name for a very decided turn in the road, and we twist and turn m a horseshoe shape by a bridge suspended above the tree tops around and over a deep gulch, at the bottom of which is Fischel's Brook. As we sweep down by the side of one nearly perpen- dicular mountain, we look across the deep, beautifully timbered gully, and see the picturesque bridge over which we are to pass. Pay, was lately leas^^'a'^a'^e'nt:! S" f^^SSefwS ^"°'- "'^ °^°^^^'^ ^t .s stated that $20,000 will be expended next t^lr '*'"°""' '° *30.ooo. v.ding facilities for working this quarrv and h?n '" "T'"^ "machinery, and pro- tU.e. Many .ore leases a^e eithl!^ trifen^-r'a^^^rfL'?: tlf^-lTe Z^''' '^"^"- 20 BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY and swung around, parallel to us, is the road by which we are to climb the side of another mountain. As we rise up again, we look back at the bridge we have crossed, and gaze upon the white gypsum face of the mountain upon the opposite side of the veritable abyss -as grand a bit of scenery as we have ever looked upon. Like most mineral regions, this is really very rich in scenery. And as it is a beautiful day, we are in the humour to enjoy our sight-seeing and our newly acquired knowledge. It would indeed be called a delightful day in either old England, or New England, and here we are away in Newfoundland in the month of September. As we gaze upon the myriads of flowers blooming in these wildernesses through which we are passing, we marvel why in these places never reached by man their exquisite loveliness is with such prodigality dispensed. Who or what appreciates them ? Even there have they not a value a value beyond our powers of appreciation ? These are of the mysteries which we one day wish to solve ; we apparently cannot here. A friend learns of our perplexity of mind on this point and informs us about the physiology of the flowers, and how they are related to other creatures, of the interdependence of insects and flowers. It is really very lovely to learn of all this ; it is delightful to know that far away upon the wild moor, and deep in the forest glades there may be myriads of joyous, happy lives around the beautiful flowers - happy in all the good offices of giving and receiving. This is all true, but is there not a deeper question which this does not reach ' We only know, thus far, that the insects - the animal delight in the rich flowers which respond 22 BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST to the animal appetite. But what butterfly loves these beauties of daisies and forget-me-nots because they supply " honey for the inner mind and soul " ? To man they are a great, never-ending delight, and the most beautiful bearers of his deepest, tenderest. holiest messages, Winter Sceni; from his youth until the end of life, when, ever faithful, they follow hini in sweet symbolism of immortality to the grave. >' To me the meanest flower that blows can give Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears." Too deep for tears, too deep for words is the thought which holds converse with the speechless flowers ; and yet do even we 23 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY appreciate them to the full? Aiul still we may ask if. away in the wilds, do not these Howers hold communion with the gods ?>* Nearing Bay St. George the land about the road is not so good as that which we have been passing, and tlie rock hills are not far away, lying like piles of huge boulders one upon the other. Sandy Point village is seen in the distance. It is situated upon a long, sandy peninsula - quite an island, in fact, as it appears today. It was expected that our train would transact a large business here. On enquiry it is found that the people of this section use little merchandise; it is said that what one dollar per week will purchase is quite enough of the outsider's goods for the requirements of the average citi/cn. The miser- able looking creatures trying to handle the freight just landed demonstrates the fact that the inhabitants of this vicinity lack the necessaries let alone the luxuries of life. There is no station at Sandy Point, not even a platform, and everything is most primitive. The oil venturers goods are pitched off into a deep ditch; some of the heavy pipes are almost lost to view in the soft soil, and one looks as though broken in two. It will be no small matter to convey these heavy NOTE 8. NOTES liY CROSS COUNTRY TRIP, MAY, ,8,9. the trees ,nust have reina.nea 3 son ■' aM ' '" ^'t^^'^ "^ ''^'^ «""^ "PO" Islands that wuUer's day, lold u^t'Lt' o '^fourte "dav^UlS^^o';'"' "^^' ^^'>' "' in this section of the country -that this w-[^ !h '^;^v^"f^^ "°' "^sed to snow however. ,t d,d snow as we Passed down hv.h P Z ' "' '^^>'- ^^'"^^ "'Kht. day, wh.le we lav last n, cmr d,Ht and as L n.s 'i '^''""'^■"«- ^"^ ^'so the ne.xt sweepniy down by the mouma in l.des ^ ''^ ""' '" '" """ ^4"-"« ^-"^ 24 -"I BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST iron pipes ovt-r miles of country where horses cannot travel. Fortunately for the undertaking the manager is a man of perse- verance and endurance. He goes forty miles up the coast. And there is also another oil company operatmg still farther north on this same coast. Sandy Pomt village contains a population almost entirely engaged in the catching and curing of fish, but yet we see, even here, some fine patches of potatoes and other vegetables. Pota- toes do well all along this coast where there is any soil, and they are as good as any found elsewhere. The population of Sandy Point is mostly French, and is greatly controlled by French mterests. 25 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST TREATY AND TREATY COAST This section of the country all the way from Port aux Basques is within Treaty Coast, but not by the Treaty of Utrecht. By the terms of that Treaty the privileges given to the French had reference to the part of the coast starting from Point Riche. nearly up to the Strait of Belle Isle, and following the coast to the northern extremity, and then south-eastward by the course of the bays to Cape Bonavista. These rights were of a very restricted character, a/a.l yet the concessions given have been a source of terrible trouble to the British residents ever since. To this point Article XIII. of that Treaty reads as follows : " Nor shall the most Christian king (the King of France) his heirs and successors, or any of his subjects, at any time hereafter, lay claim to any right to the said island or islands, or any part of them. Moreover, it shall not be lawful for the sub- jects of France to fortify any place in the said Island of New- foundland, or to erect any buildings there, besides stages made of boards, and huts necessary and useful for drying of fish, or to resort to the said island beyond the time necessary for fishing, and drying of fish. But it shall be allowed to the subjects of France to catch fish and to dry them on land in that part only, and in no other besides that said Island of Newfoundland." The Treaty of Versailles and the fraudulent declaration of George III. at that time continues to be the ground upon which the French have rested their case a Treaty which was a secret document, while a sham one was presented to the English House of Commons. It was also at this time, 1783, 27 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY that the famous declaration was made by King George to this effect : " His Britannic Majesty will take all the most positive measures for preventing his subjects from interfering in any manner by their competition with the fishery of the French during the temporary exercise of it. which is granted them upon the coasts of Newfoundland, and he will for this purpose cause the fixed settlements, which shall be formed there to be removed. His Britannic Majesty will give orders that the French fishermen be not incommoded in cutting the wood necessary for the repairs of their scaffolds, huts, and fishing vessels." By the terms of the Treaty of Versailles, the French renounced their rights upon the north-east coast extending from Cape Bonavista to Cape St. John. On the other hand the fishery rights from Cape Point Riche to Cape Ray were given over to France in addition to that already in their possession, making in all eight hundred miles ( of what is in many respects the best part of the colony) the virtual possession of a foreign country. Englishmen, in a way, have always claimed these bays and these harbours as the property of British subjects, but the present Prime Minister of England has been the first to assume the responsibility of declaring that French officers must not take forcible possession of English property upon these waters, nor to destroy the nets and boats of the Newfoundland fishermen pursuing their lawful industry in their own harbours.' As recently as the year 1893, in St. George's Bay, the com- mander of H. M. S. Pelican gave notice to English settlers about the Bay that they were prohibited from selling herrings to any "Judge Frowst. 28 BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST other than French vessels, placmg the supply at the option of the French purchaser. We feel impressed that we have come upon a country abounding in tales of suffering and wrongs, of oppressions from friends as well as the declared foes : for what more burdensome and cruel than the laws and administration in the days of the Devonshire Fishing Admirals? The Treaty of Utrecht, the Treaty of Paris, and the Treaty o( Versailles were but compromises, make-shifts, leaving in Newfoundland, in St. Pierre, and in Canada a dual occupancy Scene by Harve\'s River upon terms to be varied, intensified, or ignored as the varying circumstances might determine ; leaving a smouldering fire to burst into flame if the occasion should come. 29 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY The story of the immortal ChathanVs denunciations of all these unbusinesslike settlements - these compromises with wrongs to colonial subjects - is an interesting chapter in history But politicians of the stamp of Bute were enriched by these -ppressions, and selfish interests prevailed.'" NOTE lo.-FROM NOTES BY CROSS COUNTRY TRIP MAY ,8 <, up a considerable p-rarfp Or. .h„ h , west (..oast, and are movme: s owlv View of Uic Wrecli n( ihn t_ a wreck of tlic Tra.n Approaching Bay cf inlands track ; the 30 BYCAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST A l.ttle search, and ,t ib fou.Td thirn nnl T'^' y^"^^'"'"g ^^ys. d.d not leave the rail. The baggage ma"°er and th ""^ 'T'"^' '^'^"^ '""Sine cars were not at their nosts "fnH 5^ master and the ma.l-clerk of the disabled three were in the Colonist clr' the resThf '^"'""^ ""P^'^' '"'^'^"y ^°' '^em. Only A gang ,s very "s":." at worlTu iSfnTf frTcVarotl'"'"^""^ ^^^ '^"^P^^' cars can be passed on. The passeni^e s^^th k 'i °"' '^""^'^ '^^ '^at our various experiences, but soon we are comfnftfM '^V'. f"'* .'*'"'" '° '!'•''<="«« their quickly enough. ^ comfortably settled for the night, which passes ress ?ow\rdTs,7rt " irihelstanc: weTea^rh^ °"' 'V'^ '°' °"-^'-^ ^^e prog- of .he track layers, and now and aga'n the whtstTe"of^ °' '''' '''^^. ^"'^ ^^'^'-"^ dgdin ine whistle of an engine is heard. The Scene of Baggage-car after Wreck ;^^::;i;'ncrth: w;^ neXi^r;.:^ ■„ ':r t'-'-' '-r^''- ^-- -^^^ .s a bngh, day, and some very poodsr^ap shots Irrr''' '^^^'" ^' "" ^&^'"' '' characters of our company. L^st but not ^eas^ H^ -embracing all the notable our trunk ■ the same one that felt bkck.n the !f' ^^ ^""^ "''^"'- ^^ ^^^ ^ P'^^'^^e of of the wreck. We felt very mu.h fo ,t wh.f ""'"" ' ^"'' ^' " '" ''"'"^ landed out baggage-car. with a seven or^Tghthunddte"rr,i'.r f "^^""^h ^ ^ole m the •t. At eleven o'clock we are on our wav agam'^^ ^ °^ ''°" machinery lying on The passage from the scene of the wreck to the R, r r i , as many attractions as it was when firc^t ^^,7 „ . ?^ °^ Islands is marked by 31 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY "Bay of Islands next," so Uie brakenian cries. As the physician has arranged for us to be let off at the first siding upon the Bay, we gather up our parcels and stand waiting our chance to alight, for we are running at break-neck speed down an awful hill — but what scenerv ! The Dog Following the Train Approaching our landing place at Bay of Islands the scenery becomes grand. Blomidon rising over two thousand feet, stands conspicuous above everything; but as one sweeps around Mount Moria h, and c atches a view of the Bay lying almost beneath more extended views of the beautifully varied landscapes and swollen streams as hey are to be seen through the leafless forest. On our w.nter tr m we saw thes- iou^h an f ""'''\ "" '^"^. °""- '''''' '^''^«"' -'^''^ -"- ^as re^ i'^^rupon eve ; bough, and every stuiiip, and every windfall had its fleecy covering ^ ^ Isl«n 7."'"'"^ f'uT "" ""' '^'^'f' ^'""^'"^^ '•'^y''^ °"r near approach to the Bay of aims 'the skv In "' ^"'"l"' °' "^^ ^^"'"^ "^ '^e Bay far .n the d.stance ; and way af,ainst the sky looms up white-capped •• Blow-Me-Down - ' two fll; Lrat^'t 1 "rTar We^Sluite^'Vif^th^'^' '''''■" T °- '"^^^^e upon followers of ours as thev ire wi ^ , I c Po^f^^^'^d sensibilities, faithful by chance '• wa" But ^Ly are IIILu '" '"" ''''' ''^ "^^^''^"^^ '» '^'^ " ""- 32 BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST then, a distance of five or six hundred feet, the hi,h mountains by the opposhe shore but two or three males away, the pretty villages, and churches, and the shipping at the base of the almost perpendicular formations close by the water, one has mdeed a delightful picture. n has started wuhom the custo'LT'^aSou' '^to^'L^r .r^cr" hI' ''^ '^^'" pletely bewildered, but finally runs and grasps the forwa d n .Vt f u' '°"'- car at our rear. It being a down grade,%he%eed .s h.Jh and a thn' l"T protests against it, he is forced to let go and is left behind although he riki^ '^•>'i <: \ T'^ ^ 1 'assL-n' '° '"^''^^ ^^e "Cross Country" rha" ,T.^na,n; 1 np es""r.pT:: ^-^ ^^ ^s ^^^""1"°'^'"^ character of this"tSn chase ^ (-xpresb, for he is ^een tor more than a mile giving us 33 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY All brakes are pressing to their utmost ; are we to go plun- ging into the sea off a huge rock ? We have whirled past our intended " stop off." But at last we do slacken speed and in quick time are by the roadside, with our half-dozen pieces of luggage scattered up and down the track for about hfty yirds. There is no station, no station master, and the train has gone on ; we would have been in a sorry plight had not the do*nor helped us in our perplexity. And with this sudden and precipitous landing we end our first chapter on railroading in Newfoundland. It was three days before we were able to get our luggage together for another ride. It was here at Carter's A^e stoppeii four hours when on our cross-country trip last winter to change cars, to take water, and to take coal. The very necessary preparations for another run were then all attended to in the most deliberate and methodical manner, and one thing at a time, just as we were told to do things by those of experience when we were children. On that winters day we had plenty of time for snap-shots of this delightful scenery. The skating upon the Bay was then very good; our parlour-car occupants availed themselves of this excellent oppo.tunity for having a turn. We pictured them in the very act. How will it be this time? ' Our unfortunate traveller has caught up to us it was only four and a half miles. He expresses great indignation at the conductor and threatens to expose the whole circumstance to " Mr. Reid." 34 BY CAPE RAY AND BY TREATY COAST A Camp in the Bush TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY View of Mt. Moriah, Ray of Islands TWO CHARMING DAYS AT A NEWFOUNDLAND "OUTPORT," THE BAY OF ISLANDS We very soon learn that in this Colony, every town, village or considerable settlement, other than St.John'sand Whitbourn' IS designated an •' outport." Whitbourne, a village of about one thousand souls, is the only inland town or village in the whole Colony ~ situated at one of the railway junctions. With these two exceptions every settlement is a seaport, because the sea has proved the only means of communication between the d.f ferent settlements. Their interests have been, practically, all 36 TWO CHARMING DAYS AT AN OUTPORT seawiirds ; from the sea has come the prime factor in the pro- duction of all forms of utilities, either for exchange, for absolute and necessary consumption, or the material of reproduction. That these are well named " outports " subsidiary to something of more importance in some way, is one of the peculiar condi- tions which we feel sensibly after being a few hours upon this coast. Wc are impressed by its influence, as being, not only economic, but also political and social. In our few hours' ride by rail, we felt that we were in an atmosphere abounding with functionaries that the ordinary mortal might be under a sort of compliment to someone for the privilege of existing and acting, to say nothmg of entertaining a conviction. i That the Bay of Islands is at least a sub-political outport, we have a conspicuous, ocular demonstration as soon as we alight from our railway carriage, for as we are landed in our somewhat detached and beshredded manner, we find ourselves in the midst of what seems to be a large and distinguished com- pany of people, if we may judge by their appearance and actions, with a few others about them in obsequious attitudes. We are attracted by the flutter of bunting, and looking toward the water side, we see a good sized, and well equipped craft with its rig- ging loaded with flags and streamers. It is a pretty sight, but what does it all mean ' Has some rich and public personage ' A lout; visit Xo the Colony, anj much contact with the neonle i-onvinr^.. ,u v.hty, yet the deportment of the classes toward each other is quue as lood and the "r'\"r.he u' Itri t^e'"'V' "'r'- ^^ ?'"^ ^'^'^ ^'^^ ^^"^^- - th^e Provinces that V: o,r. h Vf Rverywhere w,th us. Jack makes it distinctly understood that he considers himself a little better than his master. 37 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY brought a party here for a novel marriage, and a gala day ? There certainly is a very pretty church over yonder, so pictur- esquely placed by the mountain side ; and surely the priest, as well as other notables of the country, must be represented in this party we have so unexpectedly come among. We have but a moment for all these queries to revolve in our minds, our attention being distracted between this unusual conclave, and the disposal of our luggage, when, lo ! as suddenly as we found ourselves among them, as suddenly the party has disappeared. But we will know more about it. We ask a gentleman near us what vessel it is with all the flags. " Oh, that is the Fiona." " Well, what is the Fiona ? " " She is a Circuit Boat." " And what is a Circuit Boat ? " " Why, don't you know what a Circuit Boat is ? " We have to confess our ignorance on the subject. " Why, that is the Government Circuit Boat, and she is now carrying the law court from port to port around the island. When court is over, here, she goes to Bonnie Bay farther up the coast. She will take the judge, who comes here today by train from St. John's. The judge who has been presidmg here went away just now by train to St. John's." " Was that the cause of all the commotion and large gather- ing at the train's stopping here ? ' we ask. " Oh, yes," is the reply ; •• these judges come out here from St. Johns." " And are there any lawyers here ? " we continue. " No, not any ; they mostly come out from St. John's and 38 TWO CHARMING DAYS AT AN OUTPORT travel arouna m the Circuit Boat, although wc have a magistrate who moved ow from St. Johns a little way hack." One piece of our luggage goes tu a house near by, another to a store, and the rest we manage. Everyone seems anxious to do all in their power for us. Not a horsf. nor a mule, nor an ox not even a dog- is to be seen. There is but one dog in the whole district. The ■Fiona" iii Dry Dock We walk to our destination by the railway, the highway being of little importance, and arc introduced to the magistrate, who is affable and very agreeable, and whose large, comfortable, and well-appointed dwelling we have just passed. This gentle- an extends many kind wishes for oui pleasant stay at Bay of Islands. He wants to knov/ if vvt- propose to spend a day or two m the woods on the hunt. Bui we have no sucli intention. 39 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY One hundred dollars is the foreigner's license fee for the privi- lege to hunt for deer and caribou, and the magistrate gets a con- siderable portion of it for himself. We do not entertain a thought that this administrator of law has any self interest in learning to what extent we are on a pleasure trip. But what if he has ? He is agreeable, and we like him, nevertheless. Some- one suggests ulterior motives. We positively will not ; the gratitude of heart for his hospitable smile forbids it. A schooner of about one hundred tons is lying at anchor, though with all her sails pulled up aloft, and fluttering. A mes- senger comes to inform the doctor that she is only waiting for him, as he is wanted down the Bay. and that the craft will take him. The doctor tells us that this is his only mode of convey- ance, that he keeps no horse, and that in all there are but two or three miles at the Bay over which a carriage could be con- veyed, and that at a speed not much faster than a walk. Indeed we are told that horses are very rare, and are kept only for haul- ing wood, and bringing the herring over the ice, from the holes made for the purpose of fishing, in the winter. Apropos of this subject, a gentleman gives us an essay upon the horse, composed at one of the schools recently. We are confident that it must have produced a profound sensation upon the fellow schoolmates. ESSAY ON THE HORSE „o. ]'r!^'' ^^ u ''^ ''""^'^ '""'°'^ ^"^ '" ^he w'"^^'- halls herring, men got to put shows on the horse, fraid they would fall on sCv jce horse plows grown horse eights hay and oats you can ride on ^han oien'h'" ' ''" '" ''''''''' "^^ ">^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ run faster wons th ^°'''?.l^''' '^ hawl slays and carts horses have young wons there is differents of horses there is wild horses and therl Zr.^Z^ '"'■^- ■^°''^'^ " ^ """"'y "^^f"^ anamile the horse is a reThn/""*-' ^T""'^"" /''"'"" •' ^'^^ ^"""^^^ ^"^ black horses and red horses and gray horses." 40 TWO CHARMING DAYS AT AN OUTPORT Aitt-T a walk of a milt and a half, we arrive at our iiotel. Wc approach the hostelry by the back yard, and then around by a gate kept closed —almost too effectually against individuals with httle muscle - by a weight consisting of quite a length of M*. Moriali fi-or-.i Pctrics old cable chain, slung by one of smaller dimensions. We pass through, wondering what thrilling history that bit of cable could 41 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY relate of its service to the ship long before it came here. It has been here for a longer time than anyone can tell. Before entering this traveller's rest, we linger upon the spa- cious verandah to enjoy the beautiful prospect which surrounds it. Mt. Moriah to the left, behind which is the declining sun. Further away in the distance lofty " Blow-Me-Down " still bask- ing in a brighter sunlight, and the Bay to sea-ward. Just oppo- site is the pretty village of Summerside, and then Crow's Head ; while a little to our right are the deep wooded hillsides and vales at Hugh's Brook. Far up the mountain-side is the new Roman Catholic chapel — grand in proportions. All is delightful in the mellow light of the setting sun upon this ripe summer's day. At first we are left in doubt as to whether we can secure entertainment here or not -no one seems quite sure of anything in this country. This is one of the striking characteristics of the people that will impress the observing traveller. And why should it not be a peculiar, a prevailing trait, with a people whose lives, whose whole history, has been one of uncertainty of events which involve so much of life and property, and whose political history has been so much beyond their own power and control. But we are placed in comfortable quarters nevertheless the best that can be given are offered with hospitality. In the evening we visit the store of an old acquaintance, and here we witness a striking instance of the courtesy and kindly breeding of these people. A young lady enters, and as she is not served directly, she enters into a spirited conversation with us about the doings of the court now in session, and we regret when she is finally served and bids the merchant good-night. We 42 TWO CHARMING DAYS AT AN OUTPORT wished she might have extended her pleasant adieu to us all. It would seem the most natural thing from such a frank and generous spirit. But it proves we are not to be disappointed, for directly she does return, and asks our pardon for what she calls her rudeness in not extending her customary leave-taking to us. We think this an exhibition of manners most gratifying, hitherto not known by us elsewhere. We are up early on the second day of our stay at Bay of Islands, and eager to gain a chance to use our kodak, for the clouds are at times shutting out the light which we require A company of fishermen in the loft of a cooperage want us to photograph them. One of the company thinks that such a pic- ture, with fishermen in their jackets, would not be the right thing _ and they a lot of old rough fellows. Another says these are just the right kind, for they •' show character in a picture." Th- collector of customs for the port of Bay of Islands is a boarder at our hotel, and we find him quite an encyclopaedia in his way. From him we gather quite a fund of interesting and useful information, having much to do with incidents and cus- toms of the place-' We are sittir,, .pon the verandah of our summe°n"' ^"""'"'^^ "^ "'^h ^^^ '^^^'^ '^^ Bay of Islands, both in winter and in ,n.n,^'''""!f'^ Of exports from this Bay. including Lark Harbour, a small settle- ment near by, and exports coastwise for the year 1899 : S'ettle- Pickled Herrinf; . Bulk Salted . F'rozen Lobsters Salmon Dry Codfish 23,500 barrels. 30,000 12,000 2,000 cases. 120 barrels. 4.500 quintals. t winter from Bay of Islands, which A cargo of frozen herrings taken the pas^ w.iucr .rom Day ot Islands which 7Zu"^T"''rl" 'he Boston market, realized a net profit of"^ IgZ Another marketed -.n Montreal made $5,000 net profit to the speculator. ^""'her 43 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY temporary home with this official of onerous duties — for this is a chief port of entry upon the west coast chatting upon the many subjects which the scene before us affords for agreeable talk, and enjoying the deliciously soft breeze which is moving past us down the Bay. Lying between us upon the floor is an old Newfoundland dog, the last remnant of his race left in the district. His time is now mostly spent in sleeping away the few remaining years left him by sufferance. Various are the expressed opinions in the district as whether even this one New- foundland dog should not be annihilated at once. He surely seems quite harmless ! And who knows how deep the feeling of love which moves the one who begs for his life, that this faithful friend who has no revenge or condemnation in his heart may be by his side a little longer in the flesh. But this is a time when sentiment must give way to material advantage, progress, development. An act of the legislature of the Colony empowers any district to petition this body to prohibit the keeping of dogs within the specified district. When one-third or upwards of the electors have so petitioned, a proclamation is issued prohibiting the keeping of dogs in sucii area ; collies alone are exempted, and there are none of these here. This is called the " Sheep Preservation Act." The electors of the Bay of Islands peti- tioned, and as a consequence the old Newfoundland dog is ban- ished by the act of popular will. And if he does not get away forthwith, any constable has the power to kill him where he may be found in the district. It is claimed that sheep raising can be quite profitably con- ducted here. And some vegetables are raised in considerable quantities. We are told that no potatoes have been imported at 44 TWO CHARMING DAYS AT AN OUTPORT this port for many years. Those we have at our table are all delicious. Over the one hundred and fifty miles of the French coast which we have seen there should be no lack of this neces- sary of life. The day will no doubt come when there will be a surplus, and then they will be sent to other parts of the Island. Fine cabbages are also seen in little patches everywhere. They cannot be excelled, and the man who raises them for market gets a good price, as the protection is ample. Cabbage is a common article of food, and forms the principal of many tasty preparations for the table. It is cooked much more thoroughly than we have seen it prepared elsewhere. At times we have had a course of only cabbage with its dressing and condiments. A merchant at the Bay has quite a fruit orchard, or rather garden plot of fruit trees ; plums, pears, apples, and small fruits. The trees look healthy, but the yield is small, rare, and uncer- tain. The experiments prove that it will be only those who have an abundant income from other sources than the raising of fruit who can afford to secure these luxuries. They will be luxuries indeed if this be the only way of obtaining them. We should also judge from the lobster served at the table of our friend, the packer, that the preparing and cooking of this fish was another accomplishment of these people. We believe the preparation of the lobster about these coasts is superior, as it is with the preparation of other fish elsewhere. This is another lesson in the correctness of the principles which gives to the consumer everywhere, not only the greatest abundance, but also the best in quality. The lobster packer is now building a steam launch to be used for communication with his factories, and doing the necessary freight business. We get a snap shot 45 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY '1 of him and his craft, as he stands upon the staging inspecting his work. This gentleman has a factory at the Bay for making tins from which he sells many to the smaller concerns. With the' tms the smaller catcher of lobsters can very successfully pack his own catch. This is working much against the larger oper- ators, and IS quite a general subject of complaint with them. W. K. Aug..v:„ on the Stagi,,,; of hi. Steam Ya.ht to the ■■ Head - ,h ■ "" °''"™" '^ '^''^ "^ "P danger .h" U „ " '"'^' '° "'^ "^^ '-" ' '°^ '^"e is nger that u may not stop near us this time Ai the ■■ H. , - w.n he the bottom of the h,„. strange to say. ' ""' - f."":::'; 'o^ ": "' ■■ ^'""'^" --- °^ ■■ B'-w-Me-Oown ■• the. crn et,°::e ::::: ::;■; -^ r ^= - ---^ -p K was cold enough " to free;ce the horns 46 ^ * w 1 I I TWO CHARMING DAYS AT AN OUT PORT Off .he Caribou.' In .he win.er .he hun.er „us. go ,o .he high oc y „ou„.a,ns ,o seeure .h. ga,.e, Tor i. is .her. .ha X' feed upon the moss, which .hey are able tn fi„ , i, a coa.ing of snow. " ">' "^"""^ ""^^ On one side of this moun.ain is a rich ,■„„„ ooerateH a„,l , j u , copper mine which is opera.ed, and a deep shaf. already sunk ' One m.le up from our s.ar., we land .o yis.. .he pos.-office The PCS. omce official wishes .o show us .he in.erior of .he beau.,ful l,..,c Bay of Islands' church. We gladly accep. h' ..roll on .0 .he church, our gu.de, .he while, in en.husias.ic terms euog,.mg .he memory of .he benefac.ors who made ,. possible for ,hem .o have so useful and beau.ifu, a place o worship. The Bay of Islands Episcopal church, so universally admired, s.ands abou. .wo hundred fee. from .he water and one-third of the distance to the moun.ain .op. A. all poin.s ,t .s partly hidden behind the clus.ers of deep evergreen .rees .ha. are do..ed all over ,he moun.ain side, and fill .he deep ravines. The wh„e fence of the churchyard peeping .hrough, never al.o- ge.her seen, adds .o .he picturesque eifec, as one approaches by the winding grassy ways. From the church the view is very beautiful, and very extensive ; a fitting spot for prayer and praise ! ^ We enter this sanctuary with extreme veneration, for here we are told, devout and true men laboured and made undoubted sacrifice for Christ's sake. And we become more and more ■'At Bay of IslanJs is an iron pyrites, from which sulphuric acid will be be's'taned!"' "' " "' '^'- ^"'''^ " ^'''' P^'P -anufact' uring enterprise soon to 47 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY impressed, as we view the reminders of their good works inscribed by those who followed after. It is a pretty church, with a well-appointed, roomy chancel. The windows throughout are of leaded glass. The chancel window is a fine memorial to Captain Howeth of the Royal Navy, once a large contributor, and a good friend to the parish. At the side of this is a smaller Church of England. Bay of Islands Stained glass window, also in memory of Captain Howeth ; given by the Church Institute. Another window is a fitting memorial to the father of our host. The organ is quite fine and was the gift of the Rev. J. Curling, who did so much in every way for the church. This reverend gentleman was once an 48 TWO CHARMING DAY S AT AN OUTPORT engineer in office m .he Royal Navy, and resigned his commis- sion when on the station at Bermuda to prepare himself for holy orders ; he was ordained in zSga. and was sent a missionary to the Bay of Islands. Of abundant means, he possessed the valuable yacht, Lavrock, which he gave several years ago to the coastal missionary work. She is still employed in the same good service. We are told that tangible proofs of h>s generosity are seen all over the coasts of Newfoundland. But here was the greatest of his benefactions. We call this sublime ! Most men, reared and schooled, and entered upon life's great, active battle among the throng, would not care to give where the applause of the world could not reach them, nor their work be discerned by man. But here, cut off from all but the very few who could appreciate his work, he built a home for his successor in office, and gave it to the parish ; gave a missionary yacht that all the little coves about the coast might hear of Christ, and his healing message ; gave this little church an organ ; gave to these people, so far removed from access to such things, the pos- sibilities of a rich and inspiring service without a thought of a return, satisfied with the assurance of God's approval, and the good it might do these "toilers of the sea," these humble fishermen. We leave this — one of the unique shrines of the English Chi. :h in Newfoundland thanking the fates which keep it so well preserved, while many are going to decay; wishing that time might be longer, and circumstances such that we might learn more of its history. At Fisher's we are obliged to keep away from the shore a quarter of a mile because of a long wharf which juts out into 49 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY the Bay ; a solid structmi', uiaik; cnlircly ol slabs, and other refuse lumber. The " Head, " so called, is the head of the Bay of Islands, and the estuary of that river of ^;raiul scenery, the Huiuber. This is one of the Newfoundlaml Bays where the Head is at the head. Of the most of them tliey tell us that the bottom of the bay is at the head. We have two hours' stay at Carters before our train is due. •' Carter's" is the name given to this place through one, Carter, having built a hotel here recently, where it is supposed the principal station at the Bay of Islands will be located. At this point the car track comes down nearly to the water. It is rumoured that a Hne hotel the '• Reid's " -- is to be built here to catch the summer tourist, who is sure to come this way to enjoy the wild and grand scenery, the sport by the stream and the hunt. All of which he linds here in abundance. t^-HMt^tgirn^v Jt^' ,„(OSW*'.*t*'¥!'lt>' fc-V ia 5f^^ -ir*- Scenc at tlie Head of Bay of Islands CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL Boating on the Humber River » ,h TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL BAY OF ISLANDS TO THE TOPSAILS The scenery by the Humber River for several miles from its estuary is indeed grand. The train is skimming along by one of its perpendicular mountainous banks, which reach at times to nearly a thousand feet in height. As we look ahead by a turn, and catch a glimpse of the way we must travel, there seems no escape from an awful plunge down by the rock side into the river immediately below. Peacefully, tranquilly, gently, seem to rest and move the waters of this beautiful river : sometimes bright in the clear light of the afternoon sun, again in shadow, while the landscape lies charmingly silhouetted upon the water. The opposite bank rears its rocky face, first into a regular perpendicular mass, and then again it is split into a deep gorge with irregular towers pushing their rugged pmnacles into the sky above — verily impal- ing heaven. "Breakfast Head" is a mighty towering fortress of rock, the " Devil's Dancing Point " is bewitching, and " Marble Mountain" is a beautiful, as well as grand, specimen of those "buildings not made with hands." We think of Norway,— Naerodale and Hardanger Fjord — and imagine ourselves in that country of grand scenery, the never exhausted subject of the tourist's enthusiasm. Or have we been transported into North Wales, and is this the Hollyhead Express by the Eliojsig Rocks, and the Penmaenmawrs that we are speeding along.? 52 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL These scenes, notwithstanding their wild indeed we.rd - untamed desolation, do not depress one as a forsaken wilder- ness. They rather ..,— ' with the thought of hidden energy and power, and unknown forces silently at work. Here would the soul expand, and grow in the knowledge of God. exploring this masterly stroke of His workmanship. Here are treasures in r.ch abundance to the one who will come and search them out. It was indeed a clever stroke of ingenuity and enterprise which pushed this railway through these tremendous wilder- nesses (piled in almost inaccessible heaps of towering rocks, ravines, gorges, and precipices), and across the Colony. It would almost seem to the stranger an impossible task, so re- mote is it from all the necessary implements for such a develop, ment; yet this is only in keeping with the way the people of Newfoundland have battled with obstacles all through history.' Imperfect as our train service may be. we vastly enjoy the trip, and will always be glad that we have known this titan Island in all its primitive conditions, and have witnessed the brave struggles, and supreme efforts of those who strive to bring this isolated colony under the advantages of other lands. Five miles from the Bay the mountains recede from the coast, and now we find frequent changes from the jagged, and NOTE I, -NOTE BY CROSS COUNTRY TRAIN, MAY, iSyg. 'Apparently we are expected to take turns watching the progress of our lue- gage, as we see it swaying about on the flat car behind. And it proves to be a constant excitement. Now the word goes around that our mail clerk is missintr He IS not seen upon his mail bags. Was he left behind at the Bay of Islands' Has he fallen off his '• postal flat car oflice " ? What has become of the registered letters.' Who knows? ,u ,'^"£"°^ '* '^ ""eported that bags are lost, and back we go. Whose bags are triey? That's the question; and how many more have been left at other times' We must have a looK. After a miles run back they are caught up. Onlv mail bags, after all. & p ' / '"-» 53 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL bold masses of rock to fertile, and well timbered ranges. And even by the river side are very considerable stretches of level land. Seven m.les from the Bay is a large district which was once heavily timbered, hut recently swept by fire. At 2.40 P. M. we are travelling by Deer Lake a long narrow body of water with a pebbly bottom -^eighteen miles in length, and a mile or two wide. The River Humber flows in at one end, and out at the other. The railway runs along by nearly the whole length of this lake ; and not a sign of a settlement is to be seen ; yet it looks to be a fine district for a community of farm- ers—the land so rich, and the situation so fine. Both sides of the lake are densely covered with a tall slim growth of spruce, just such a growth as farmers in some countries -up along" would like to find when they went to the woods for poles, in the days of worm fences. Yet we are told of two young men who lately came out here to settle, from offices in St. John's, and made farms on the oppo- site side of Deer Lake. It is a most picturesque spot, yet they need to be remembered in our petitions. If they have the courage to stay, some day they will have a property to make them some recompense for all their privations now. We are told that they are doing finely. At 3.45 P. M. we are at South Brook, and here we meet the passenger train from Si. John's, which is an event. We exchange mails and current news. Our postal clerk gives us every chance to get stamps, and mail our letters. The good fellow runs all the way through the 548 miles, it is said without sleep, and is required to attend to the receipt and delivery of the mails at all the stations. We think he might have half a 55 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY night's sleep, and possibly do that too? We eagerly grasp the newspapers for " news," and behold, they bear the dates of the last week in August, and this is the ninth of September. Our world is truly very much by itself. " At 4.10 P. M. we roll into Grand Lake station, finding only the station, two shanties, and two residents — composing the whole town which has, in fact, turned out to meet us. At this place we cross the large bridge over Junction River, which carries a great volume of water from Grand Lake ; the largest, and longest lake on Newfoundland, sweeping from this easterly end, to the southwest, over sixty miles. Sir John Glover's Island, twenty miles long, is one of the most interesting belong- ings of Grand Lake. Its scenery is said to be very beautiful, and one of its remarkable features is its own large lake, in which is another island. So here we find a sequence of an island NOTE 2. -NOTES HY CROSS COUNTRY TRAIN JANUARY, 1900. "A bulletin of war news, fresh from the seat of war in South Africa, has just been seen, and here we are in the wilds of Newfoundland, The Boers are giving the British a troublesome time of it. Some are puzzled to know how the enemy is being reinforced. Can anyone doubt v/ho watches the crowds around the buUetir. boards of the great cities; or who goes to the meetings that are being held hei' and there to urge sympathizers to action in this war against law and order, and justice ; and sees those who take a chief part therein ? All these conditions are so wonderfully predicted by Macaulay, m his prophe- cies concerning the Huns and Vandals which he foresaw would arise in our modern titnps times. To the one who studies the oaths and pledges -oaths to destroy all govern- ments -of the Black Internationalists, the Bakunins, and the moving hordes who know no nationa ity. an army constantly increasing, it is not difficult to perceive where t.ie aid and sympathy may come from. This army is created by the whole- sale destruction of small proprietorships; and this is the armv that all nations have some day, to reckon with. By the unwisdom of our laws, and our economic developments fostered thereby, we create armies to overthrow the fabric of society and government. o">-iti/ 56 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL M ^ TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY within a lake, and that lake within a large island, which is within a still larger lake within a larger island Newfoundland. ' Scene on Grand Lake Sir John Glover, who was governor of the Colony from 1876 to 1881, visited the Grand Lake region one summer, and Glover Island was named for him.' ■'••The approach to the Grand Narrows, between Glover's Island and the mainland, is a veritable fairyland, and the natural beauties are so enchanting that it would be pure presumption on my part to attempt to convey an adequate idea of the scenery. When the tourist gets an opportunity of visiting this charming spot, and publishing its beauties to the world, all the other well-known picturesque scen»ry wdl have to take a second place. * • " " There was no day, during the time we were camped at the head of the lake, that we dii not sea a herd of caribou — sometimes five, now ten ; in the evening it may be only three, and in the m^jrning twenty. They were allowed to pass unmo- lested, as we did not want them. The morning we started down the lake, on our journey, a herd of six, including three does, two fawns, and one stag, came down to n„"",r'l'"r';'^,?/.,V."' ^^^^ ^'"^ advanced into the water to cross to the other side." Mr. P. K DEVINfc, in Christmas Bulls 'Dr. Harvey of St. Johns accompanied Sir John Glover on his tour to this part of the Colony, and from him we have the pleasure of an account of this trip which was mauie by way of the Bays at the north, with Indian guides, and tents and canoes. This was indeed a pleasure trip of discovery, 58 M k'rU ':iM'i v'i >n ■}-';);i!' ■! X E u u C ♦J o U TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY The conductor tells us that we may see deer today or tonight ; this is the region where they are found, and he has often seen them. Indeed, ir this season three have been run down and killed by trains. He himself has seen as large an herd as sixty running from an approaching train. And we are also told of six seen running from a train that came this way but a week ago. All this proving to us the wildness of the country we are now passing through. This narrow neck of the great straggling island, lying between the head-waters of the Humber and the Lake, and the deep bays at the northeast on the other side, is the route of the deer in the autumn, from their summer feeding ground in the north, to the treeless and mossy rocks of the south - their winter ground. In the spring they go north again. On the first appearance of winter they gather in great herds, from five hundred to a thou- sand, and away they go. We are on time at Sandy Pond Stream " Sandy Bottom." This stream flows into Grand Lake, which in its turn flows into Deer Lake, and that into the Humber, and so on to the sea. We are off again shortly, and have not gone far when we see indica- tions of civilised life, and judge we must be approaching an important station. We are now at the Junction - this name has been changed to " Howley Station," we believe.'' To our right are the much NOTE 5. NOTE BY CROSS COUNTRY TRAIN, MAY, 1899. " At 4 P. M. we are at Howley, running exactly on schedule time, — except that it is the wrong day by twenty-four hours, — and here we wait another hour for our engine to recuperate, as it is reported to have given out seriously. However, after a time it is patched up, or another one secured, and we are on our way once more. Shortly after leaving Howley, someone sees Caribou, and now we are told to look toward the woods at our right, which we do, and are rewarded, for about one 60 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL 5 o TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY talked of coal deposits, owned by the Reids. They are worked by Mr. Reid, and the coal is used upon this railway. We secure a lump from a loaded car upon the track near us to examine it. It does not seein very good, but experts say it will be better farther down. There is plenty of this coal within five miles from the main track. If it proves good, it will be of great value to the Island. hundred yards away we see four white Caribou trotting from us as we have seen cattle d at the approach of a train, but with heads higher in the air. They stop for a se. J just as we get opposite to them, to give us the attention our importance deserve . .s disturbers of the peace to the denizens uf the forest, jnd then disappear into the \ -oods at a rapid trot. A good shot from our tram could easily have felled one of them. In all nine were seen. Meeting of the Cross Country Trains, May lo (There is ".now on the cn\v catcher The meeting of the trains today is of more than ordinary interest for now we shall know something more of the condition of the road over which we are to travel to our destination. Deep snow at the Topsails -ninth of May -is the report The snow seen on the cow-catcher of the approaching train from the east fullv confirms this interesting report. But we thorouL'hly enjoy the novelty. ' 62 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL a o X TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY And now by our side at the left is a rocky gulch, two or three hundred feet deep, with a small stream finding its tortuous way through it. It is a most wonderful succession of peaks and crags ; some of the peaks running up like towers and spires, and See le of Deer by Cross Country Train By pennissioii of S. H. Parsons) then again heaped in niassiveness like a rambling castle. Rock, rock, everywhere ; enough to supply material for every purpose during all time. And now. apparently, we descend from our elevation, and find ourselves at the bed of the stream. We could wade through 64 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL it now although it bears indications of being a huge water-course in freshet time.'' At this point we stop to take water, which is led from a stream forming a pretty fall from a perpendicular height of over two hundred feet. The leader is so constructed that the fireman can turn the connection on or off without leaving his engine. And now we pass through a most miserable country, bogs that cannot be drained, and rocks that cannot be cleared away — miles and miles of it. And after this a grand scene. Far off, to our left, is another long lake Sandy Point Lake. We appear to be elevated four or five hundred feet above it. Where at one " eye sweep" there seems to be ten miles of lake within our reach, and miles and miles beyond of forest, wilderness, and rock. What a grand view it is ! Just such a view as Hamerton describes in his essay on Landscapes ; he says : " No description can adequately prepare us for it. The strange thing about it is. that it is • pure nature "." How vast the sky is ; one seems to see so much, and yet the thought travels past all the vision to the limitless sea of space, to the unknown, but the alluring the coveted. At 5.4s we are working up a very steep grade ; it is as much as our engines can manage. We are approaching The Topsails the highest, wildest, most rugged, and coldest part of the NOTE I). NOTES HY CROSS COUNTRY IKAIN. MAY. 1839. ""Kitty's Brook" is today a preat broaa river, spreading out to nearly an eighth of a mile in some places. ' We now think of it as being the home of another thousand islands, for as such it seems, as it contains many islands in the freshet time. And this is where we saw the broad dry water-course last September — of rocks, stones, and gravel. I 65 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY Colony. F'ar ahead is a i^reat mountain ranyt- of solid rock, and farther still, in the distance, seem ^jreat plateaus - also of bare rock - surrounded by lumpish hills of the same. Three conical peaks attract our attention, ten or more miles away. As they are seen now they look like the figures of couchant lions.' As we wind our way up by the side of one of these moun- tains of rock, we find that the conical heaps, which verily pierce the clouds, are on either side of our track. We can also see, in the distance to the right, the Fore Topsail, and the Main Top- sail ; and on the left, tov/ering right above us as we pass them, the Gaff Topsail, and the Mizzen Topsail, They constantly change form as we watch them, until they are finally lost to view, after having seen them for over two hours. This must indeed be a trying place for winter railroad- ing ; this land of never ending rock ! Night is coming on, the sun is setting in the far distance, at the very verge of our world, and apparently setting it on fire. The long shadows spread into the solemn twilight of the wilder- ness. And the mysterious time has come when one feels the NOTii 7. NOTE3 BY CKQSS COUNTRY TKAIN, MAY, i8qq. ■And again we travel by lakes, rivers, snow, ami ice, upon i vast scale. For we are at the highest elevation on th.' Island, and the view tor many miles is unob- structed, except by The Topsails, which this evening appear m shape like huge rounded sugar-loafs. They tower above u ; many hundred leet. and yet we are told that this is 1800 feet above the sea. Notwithstanding, thjre are cuttmgs for our roadway here, and beside us for a good distance we have, at times, snow above the tops of the cai;;. It is very novel and to be enjoyed, but not for long, as it is de- cidedly colder. Our grade is now far down toward the bay coming in from the north. The rapidity with which we rise and descend i,; shown us by a j';entleman traveller, who has an altitude barometer which gauges the height and depth of our descent. 66 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL peculiar sensations of this time of the wilds of nature, of its weird and awful grandeur. " Now Heav'ns azure deepens ; and where rock-rills run, Rest on the shadowy mountain's airy brow Clouds that have ta'en their farewell of the sun ; " and the sounds peculiar to day expire, and then dim moments have come which intervene between day and the beginning of the night march of the beasts, and " the silence is sublime." 67 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY > X O i CROSSING THE ANCIEN- COLONY BY RAIL B\' Seal Rockfa THE TOPSAILS TO NOTRE DAME JUNCTION A short time after leaving The Topsails we arrive at Quarry (now Cabot Station). This is quite a settlement, with low log and earth shanties, and canvas tents. Quarry takes its name from the industry of the place the quarrying of granite, which is mdicated by the large piles of granite cubes lying by the track, and which prove to be for •' Mr. Reid's " street improvements in the city of St. John's. As night closes in before we reach West Brook, Joe Glades Pond, Badger's Brook, and Bushy Pond, v/e do not see all of 69 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY this section of the country that we wish, but make the best use of our chances. ' The quiet of rest has lulled the life about us into stillness, and we too sink under the irresistible repose ; and resting in our comfortable berths compose ourselves to ponder the long day Cimp in the Pine Woods— Badjjer's Krook just passed with the mysteries of nature. It is peculiarly pleas- ant and satisfying to approach the circle of the great, silent secrets of creation. Even to touch behind the veil of the temple ' The names of the stations liave been changed respectively to Caribou, Winter. Dawe, and McCaHum. 70 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL with a deep thought is inspiring, And every breath today, and every thought, has been upHfting to the spiritual man, as well as curative and soothing to the animal senses. The grateful wafts, first from the broad lake, and then from the deep, fir forest, as of old, are strengthening and life-giving to the physical and liaJ^t-rs Brook. Crossing Kailroad Hrid^t- mental. The sleep brought by these healthful, pure solitudes restores the equilibrium more than many nights in the crowded city, when to gain even one hour of normal sleep is often an effort ; where physicians may try in vain to quiet over-taxed, and worn nerves, and cure insomnia. Why the creatures of the highest work of the Creator still 71 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY herd in the dark, loathsome, Godless courts and alleys of the great cities when there is a beautiful, delightful, and sufficient world of pure air, and bounties for the gathering, is a greater, sadder problem than has yet been solved. These thoughts crowd upon us as we unhinge our blinds, and gaze out into the clear night. The scene is now by the ^1, View of Exploits River from Railroad River Exploits — the largest river of the whole Colony; some- times it courses its way by our right for quite a long stretch, occasionally for ten miles or more. The countless, brilliant worlds in the great space above are caught and held by the water, and now sparkle in the dancing 72 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL rapids, and again the whole heavens are mirrored in the quiet deeps. These wonderful, starry worlds that seem overflowing with great secrets, could we but hear, seem " leaning down to whisper in the ear of our souls." They tell of the endless lelight and peace to come when, the v/ork finished here, we pass to the great light of love, justice, and truth. Out from them tonight the loved ones who have gone before, and those far beyond the waters, seem to touch as by a very presence. Verily, not as we ars told that it is difficult to reach those who have left us. We are already with them. How inestimable arc the deep, hallowed friendships, the lonely traveller knows as no other being can. How truly they are enshrined in the '• amber of memory." That was no idle assertion of Cicero when speaking of his departed friend, Scipio : " Friends, though absent, are still present ; though in poverty, they are rich ; though weak, yet in the enjoyment of health ; and what is still more difficult to assert, though dead, they are alive." At Bishop's Falls, a few miles from Exploits Station, the river is crossed by a fine stone and iron bridge, through which the water is now rushing at a rapid rate. A little way down by the north, the Exploits River connects with the Notre Dame Bay. In past days the Indian had posses- sion here — the tribe of the cruel Boethics ; and the White Man made several expeditions to the Notre Dame Bay in order to hold peace consultations with these fierce tribes of the wilds. Just one hundred and thirty-seven years ago Scott, the ship-master, and one of the pioneers of peace and good-will, landed here, built his temporary fort, and then started out 73 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY > c2 a a b o. o CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL unarmed to the savage Boethics for friendly conference. Once in their power, the principal of the mission was stabbed in the back; others of the party were pierced with arrows, and the remainder fled for safety. It is now but seventy-nine years ago that H. M. S. Pilot came here by the Notre Dame Bay, and landed a party to make another attempt to conciliate the wild Boethics. After an ap- parently sufficient, and satisfactory consultation, two mariners were left to further the peace settlements. Later they were found together, backs uppermost, their feet toward the river, and their heads severed from their bodies. The Red Man was obviously treacherous to the last, having no quarter for the Pale Face. But, on the other hand, was he not frequently cruelly and unjustly treated by his civilised, Christian brother? The tribe of the Boethics disappeared long ago, no one knows just where ; whether it be to Labrador, or whether they have been exterminated by other tribes. - They are gone, and another era and another people control the Exploits. Nations and races come and go, struggle with ambitions and failures, and are pushed into the great, silent beyond by the more powerful newcomers. Their names are known no more. One cannot hut fear as the eternal question •' Near " Bonnie Bay " on the west coast, there is a cliff of hard flint where the Indians were supposed to have secured the material for their arrow-heads. On a strand near this cliff are now found many heaps of arrow clippings, indicating a numerous, and once formidable people. Here, also, are found beneath the rocks and sand upon the beach, remains of their camp-fires, and occasionally perfect arrow-heads At Grand Lake both spear and arrow-heads have been found. This section was probably one of their b.st hunting grounds. 75 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL recurs to him. What of them and us in the fine alchemy of jus- tice in the great hereafter? Will it all be as nothmg, or will each one be given a place and work? With these questions arising before us, we can well absolve those who strive to make a mark to live after them, if it be but for a short duration. Yet that sad thought ever haunts us of the races and peoples who have melted into the unknown, and have no place within the affairs of this planet. Like the Boethics, we know not where. '• The blue smoke of their camp-fires doth curl aloft no more ; Their softly-gliding birch canoes lie crumbling on the shore. There's silence in the forest, and silence o er the land, The last Red Man has passed away by the ruthless White Man's hand." The Boethics have disappeared as the buffalo and elk and antelope and mountain goat in America ; as the marten in England ; and as the badger is going. Are we progressed much beyond our savage ancestors who killed for food and self preservation ? Do not we seek with equal avidity our harmless brothers of the forest, and for i,/r,isin;- .' The sportsman thinks himself a very clever fellow if he is frequently successful in felling the harmless deer, bagging his numerous braces of birds, and landing his dozens of quiver- ing fish. All Un- jiiiri tijo'i-i : He denounces that unsportsmanlike proceeding which impels the poor settler to kill his game from necessity. Thus the consensus of opinion of society and the governing class favours, and makes legal, this instinct of our savage natures. In this country is a great domain Vvith its patches of forest, and its open feeding grounds, its wildernesses, lakes, and count- less streams, where the wild animals, the birds, and the fish 77 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY may continue on in their native force and completeness without a shadow of loss or hinderance to nidustrial progress and development. So surely as man comes to these forest kingdoms as a dev- astator of a domain more powerful than that made by man. being ruled by the silent, but inexorable ruler, Nature, so surely will the punishment of his vandalism be meted out to him an hundred-fold to him and those who follow after him. The time will surely come when there will be a futile regret that some place like this has not been reserved for the wild animals, where they might pursue their original habits. Where their histories, natures, and instincts might be studied for the benefit of science, where man might learn of secrets taught only to them, who creep closer to the hidden ways of nature than he can. When they are vanished he will learn with bitter- ness that all things are made for a wise and intelligent purpose, not for the sport of savage natures, ' '"The extinction of a lar^je or highly organized animal is a serious matter. U is always dangerous to disturb the balance of Nature by removing a poise; some of the worst plagues have arisen in this way "We do not know without much and careful experiment, how vast a service that animal might have done to mankind as a domestic species. "The force of this will be more apparent if we recollect how much the few well-known domestic species have done for the advancement of our race. Who can decide which has done n.ore for mankind, tlie cow or the steam-engine, the horse or electricity, the sheep or the pr;ntmg-press. the dog or the rifle, the ass or the loom. ' ' ' " And he today, therefore, who deliberately 'xterminates any large and useful, possibly domesticable, wild animal, may be doing more harm to the country than though he had robbed it of its navy. " This is the most obvious economic view of the question of extermination. But there is another, a yet higher one, which in the end will prove more truly economic. We are informed, on excellent authority, that man's most important business here is to • know himself.' " Evidently one cannot comprehend the nature of a wheel in a machine bv study of the wheel alone, one must c. insider the whole machine, or fail, .^nd 78 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL The Exploits drams a very lart;c part of the southwt-st of Newfoundland. Its pnnc.pal tributaries are streams runnm, from the long, narrow lakes which occupy a large part of the Station at Bxplnits River centre of the Island, stretching away southwestward to the parallel of St. George's Bay, and not far from the Ray Mountains. since it is established that man is merely a wheel in the great machine called the universe, he can never achieve a tumprehension of himself without study of the other wheels also. Therefore, to know himself, man must study not only himself but all things to which he is related. This is the motive of all scientific research •• There is no part of our environmi;nt that is not tilled with precious facts bear- ing on the • great problem,' and the nearer they are to us the more they contain for us. He who wiil explain the house sparrow's e.^emption from bacteriological infec- tions the white bears freedom from troubles to uric acid in the blood, or the buffalo s and the flamingo's immunity from the deadliest malaria, is on the way to conferring immunities on man. Each advance in science enables us to get more facts out of the same source, so that something that is studied today may yield a hundred timt;s the value that it could, or did, ten years ago, and if that source of knowledge h;ippens to be nerish;iblc, one can do the race no greater harm than by destroying it " - Mr ERNEST bhTON IHOMI'SON ni tin: Cjnturv Ma[;a.!.ni; 79 ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) k /. {./ ^ .^. '^ A I/. 1.0 I.I m. 125 ■« Ui 12.2 «« 136 i Mi. Iw IL25 1 u m 14 1.6 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY The Blacksmith's Forge NOTRE DAME JUNCTION TO PLACENTIA JUNCTION Notre Dame Bay is the junction with a short road of about twenty miles to Burnt Bay. This is one of the greatest tho- roughfares for the steamers plying about the numerous bays at the northeast part of the Colony. In the winter all these bays are frozen over, when the only conveyance is by sleighs over the ice, which mode of travel is often difficult and dangerous. But the summer tour through this part of the country is very de- lightful, for the scenery is magnificent ; by this way one may also reach the rich copper mines of Bett's Cove and Tilt Cove. At Glenwood, the first important station after leaving Notre 80 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL Dame Junction, we cross the Gander River. This is another of the large rivers of the Color y. The Gander takes its rise far to the southwest, heside some conical mounts called Partridge Berry Hills, not more than fifty miles from Hermitage Bay on the southern coast. After running its course about one hundred miles. It drops into the long, narrow laire called Gander Lake, Glcnwood — Gander Kivtr into which a number of other rivers and brooks flow, while the Gander rushes on. past Glenwood and our track, away to the sea with all the united force of these rivers.' NOTK 1. NOTKS BY CROSS COUNTRY IKAIN -A FOREST NEAR GANDER HIVEK, AUGUST. iSqq ' The autuinii tuns are very fine, although not equal to the magnificent ones seen in New Brunswick by the river St John's, or in Nova Scotia by the Lahave, for here there are none of the Hock Maple variety, and few of the White Maple. Yet the autumn loliage is very brilliant, notwithstanding. The frost, which nipped the potatoes the other dav, made the forests very beautiful, especially so in this soft, full autumn morning. We wonder if science will ever discover why autumn leaves upon the same tree turn to such varieties of colour. One inust penetrate deeper into the treasure-house of Nature to gain this secret. 8l TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY a e a O 3 X a a CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL It is said that the principal part of Gandt-r Lake seldom free^ies over. It is one hundred Luhoms deep in places, and its surface is seventy-five fathoms above sea level. There is much fine timber and farm land about the district of the Gander. At Glenwood is a large lumber establishment and saw mill, operated by the Glenwood Lumber Company, of which a well-known Nova Scotian is president. At Benton, twenty-six miles from Glenwood. is Soulis Brook, over which the railway crosses. This is another centre of a lumbering enterprise. Large piles of lumber are passed. On enquiry it is found that they belong to " Mr. Reid." Passing on to Gambo, Alexander Bay. and Terra Nova, some considerable tracts of fairly good land are seen, but much of it is useless for tree or plant life. ' NOTE i. NOTES »V LKOSS COUNTRY TKAIN NEAR QUEL i^OND, DECEMBER, 1899. '■'We have a large number of labouniif.'- men on board, on iheir way from the Whitney Works in Sydney, C. B . to their homes in Newfoundland for the hohduys, Someone remarks that they must do this if it requires the proceeds cf the next si.x months' labour to pay the expenses of the trip. This remark, although in this case from one kindly disposed, is a fair instance of the general attitude assumed by the upp'.-r classes toward the labouring man. it is the symptom of a disease surely eating into the life of the State and Nation. So long as the labourer is regarded as a machine, and his natural, higher instincts, and desires for home and family, and spiritual pleasures disregarded and thwar»eJ by the class above him, just so long will tie sink into a deeper state of abnormal apathy an! brutality yet not brutality, for he is neither man nor brute since he obeys no laws natural to his estate. And the slow powerful poison of his unnatural condition is that which will level the State to corruption and depletion. The vast army who labour are as the hands which frame that which the higher intelligence dictates. Let them be coarse, and unwieldly, and eaten with leprosy, and the fabric which they weave will be as they are, and the purpose of the higher intelligence will be lost. At Gull Pond the train comes to a standstill. The engine has given out, and as W3 apparently must stay here an indefinite time, all make the best of the situa- tion A large party is out on the lake trying the skating. We must have passed thousands of acres of the most perfect ice in the last two or three hours — smooth as a mirror. Another party is looking for berries that may have escaped destruc- tion by frost. Finally, however, an engine from St. John's comes to our relief, and we move on jur way. 83 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL At "Come by Chance Station' is the overland path, or "patie" to the head of Placentia Bay, and the site of a large pulp manufacturing busmess. Arrived at Tickle Harbour, the interesting discovery is made that wc are travelling over a very narrow isthmus, with glimpses of Placentia Bay on the right, and then of Trinity Bay on the left. The track is now elevated upon a high ridge between these waters, and the scenery becomes varied and fine.' Ore of our fellow passengers, to whom we are greatly in- debted for much that we have learned about this Colony, tells an amusing story, which we repeat. It is related to a church matter of a little village upon Trinity Bay. A very serious matter it was for a time " Many years ago, that is to say, perhaps, when we were boys, and stoves were just introduced into this country, a hard coal stove was procured with much satisfaction and pride for the village church. The stove was put in place, and a fire lighted, but it refused to make any blaze. It was poked and poked, but not a bit of heat or blaze would it make. Each of the parish- ioners had a chance to exhibit his skill in this line — and every- one thinks he knows just how to make a fire. Finally a special meeting was called to make one last trial. It was proving a failure as ail other efforts had been, and the conclusion was to throw it aside, when a gentleman who had had some experience with coal stoves came upon the scene when one of the disap- pointed ones was relieving his feelings by exclaiming, • We ' " Come by Chance Station " has been changed to Whiteway . It was certainly a very great shame to change the name ot this place, as it was characteristic — and we know to a certamty that " thereby hangs a tale " 85 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY might have known better; it is a Methodist stove, and anti- Christ coal. Notwithstanding, that stove still does its part — to ' melt the frozen and warm the chill.' " Other interesting characteristics and sayings of these good people are related. The "grannies" of Trinity Bay are posi- tive in their belief that a child born at the full moon is liable to have its tongue hung in the middle, and consequently wag at both ends ; and if born at midnight, it will be endued with power to see spirits. Asthma, it is claimed, will be cured by wearing a lock of the first hair of a child in a bag around the neck. Lumbago, sores, and evils are cured in a novel way by the child that was born feet foremost. If they wish to show the stranger hospitality, they may give him "lashings" of good things — a veritable scoff. If the weather is poor for fishing, there has been too much •• hindersome " weather. Placentia Junction takes its name from the fact that here the Cross Country Road connects with the road which runs between the present capital, St. John's, and Placentia, which was the capital set up by the French, and was thus occupied during a term of dual occupancy of Newfoundland by the French and English. Ferryland was the English capital long before St. John's was known as such. Government was established in Ferryland by George Calvert, the first Lord Baltimore, who colonised that part of the Colony known as Avalon. He was later founder of Maryland, and the city of Baltimore. From here the site of the old capital, Ferryland, is reached via St. John's ; and Placentia is reached by the line of rail we 86 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL are now joining ; not by ways known in the days of the Stuart kin^s. Sometime we will visit these historic spots of interest, and write of them ; nov; our attention is {^iven to St. John's, the present yet venerable capital of Newfoundland. Log Cabin Hotel 87 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY PLACENTIA JUNCTION TO ST. JOHN'S The next station after leaving Placentia Junction is Whit- bourne Junction, where a line branches off to Harbor Grace, and Carbonear, the two largest out port -, of Newfoundland. They are respectively twenty-four and thirty-six miles from Whitbourne, which is the only inland town in the Colony. To the right of the station is a farm establishment of some importance, surrounded by well cultivated, pretty, sloping helds, and tidy fences ; all suggesting prosperity, enterprise, and com- fort, but which, surprising as it may seem, are little appreciated by the majority of travellers. So materialistic is this age that the quiet of a country home holds small inducements to the average American, whose Mecca is the crowded city where leisure and thought are not demanded by him. The owner is named as a popular leader of the opposition to Her Majesty's government in the Colony, and soon to be the Premier, as the present rulin:; party is said to be losing ground.' Whitbourne has t'ne appearance of being fairly prosperous, although It cannot assume any great proportions, as it depends mainly upon the little labour demanded by the workshops of the Newfoundland Railway, which are located here. A neat little Church of England is prettily situated upon an elevation to the left. The baptismal font of this church being the principal object of value, as once having done service in Worcester Cathedral, England, and perhaps given to this Cathe- Since iuiblishi;u; Ihe above Mr. Boiui has becoiiiL- Preiiuer of the Colony. 88 CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL dral by Kin- John with his many muniliccnccs to St. Wiltstein. This fact makes one look with renewed interest upon the little church, as Worcester Cathedral is a particularly interesting; and beautifully situated old fane.' Soon after leaving Whitbourne we reach Brigus Junction. From here runs another branch of the railway to the seaport. Brigus. Carbonear, Harbor Grace, and Brigus are all important fishing stations, situated by the small harbours around the larger water Conception Bay. The sea views ami scenery about Conception Bay are very fine. In the distance, seaward, are the numerous high, bold headlands, sharply outlined against the sky. While stretching out at the mouth of the Bay are the famous Bell Isle and Kelly's Isle. On Bell Isle is one of the most wonderful, and richest iron deposits in the world. The ore can be picked up from the sur- face, and thrown into the hold of the ships lying at the piers. The friend who told the interesting anecdotes of Trinity NOTK J, -NOTES BY CROSS COUNTRY TRIP, MAY. i8oq. -The St. John's papers are procured here, and are read with much interest (or an account of the railroad wreck To the amazement of all only a casual mention is made of it in a morning issue following the disaster. All felt certain that their friends in St. John's would be much concerned, but now the probability is that not one word wdl reach a friend upon the mainland. Had all been killed or seriously injured there is no knowing when correct information would have reached them. These questions arise because of a remark heard to the etfect that this event is not likely to bj known away from the scene o' the disaster, for the Reids own the telegraph hne and control all channels of information and would suppress all news not favorable to the railway. This may be incorrect, but the fact remains that this presents a fair illustration of whJl the possibilities are of a monopoly or union of monopolies contiolhng not alone tlie railroads, and suppressing all news by which the people may know of impositions practised upon them, but, from indications of the times, it wiM not b(^ long betore tlie press will also fall inti,< ilie hands of mon- opolies and trusts, and even the fiei distribution of books bo governed by ruling bodies preventing all freedom ct thought. 89 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY J rt 'J 3 CROSSING TH E ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL Bay now volunteers to t.-l! a story of the- happenings at Concep- tion Bay. whKh appears in more ways than one very much like a "whale." It comes. l,(;wever, from a i^ooA source, and is at least amusing;.' Some years ago a fishing craft wis lying in Conception Bay with hawser and light anchor holding her to the land, when a big whale was seen coming toward her, with mouth wide open ready to seize a good till of caplin, which were running thick by the shore. As the whale came up lie paid no attention to the hawser, which he caught in his mouth. But as he proceeded, the anchor was drawn in until it caught around his jaw. Feeling this, he made a turn which closed the rope around his neck. Then in: made off v^^ith rope, anchor, and schooner for the mouth of the bay. In his excited state he ran upon some rocks which NOIK3 -NOTKS HV CKOSS COUNTRY 1 k 1 1'. JU 1. Y, 1900. 'At Bell Isle the Strikes arc in propress at the iron mines. There were fifteen hutulreJ men lab()unIl^' there. Today there are but five hundred. Capital has won this tunc because it did not require Labour. Labour is as apt to win :n the ne.xt time of trouble because Capital c.innot do without it. It IS not the just wage, but how much the markets can be forced to pay for either one of their products, that is the question. While the ini;i.,tl,n //en,', the fisherman proprietor and the fishermen farinei, is not considered in this new phase of economic conditions for Newfoundland. One thousand f.irnier fishermen leave those ranks of the small proprietors who have been the bone and sinew of the State the Nation-builders - and join the ranks of the labournif; classes, not only to become mere labourers, but also to t;row into a political and economic force to be reckoned with. Here, as elsewhere, the class of the '.;/■;/. ,^', // ///(//. although numerous, and the builders of industrial and moral fabrics of the country, will become less and less important. Under such conditions the permanent home gradually becomes less a thing of certainty. Altho'igh this time the labourer may return to his fisheries or his farm, when the nc.\t difficulty between Labour and Capital arises he may win and from that time forward be perm.niently joined to the ranks of labour. In exterminating the home, the ver\ foundations of the State and Nation are undermined, .md these permanent homes, which are the outcome of a condition of numerous proprittorships. and in which collectively consists the vitality and force of the Nation, cease to be the ethical harmonious power which it is their mission to be. 91 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY 0) a H CROSSING THE ANCIENT COLONY BY RAIL turned him around again, and in doing this a half hitch was mad;' in the hawser around his '.jil. This completely secured him to the craft, and away he w':r.: c irc-'-ing about until finally exhausted he ran upon .i bar, and was secured by the fishermen — an unexpected prize. At Manuels and at Topsails, the last stations of im'oortance before arriving in St. John's, the scenery is very beautiful. Here are rushing rivers, and pretty brooks; their bold, craggy banks winding among rich sylvan glades, and jutting tree faced hill- ocks. Here one sees fine specimens of matted solid blocks of the typical Newfoundland spruce grove so thick and firm that they might be walked upon, so closely intertwined that no storm could penetrate them. And then there are the pretty opens, where dew and rain and sun can have their way ; where the flocks can find food. And there are the dingles and the dells, through which arc the glinipses of the sea. It is really enchanting today in its quiet beauty, and makes one long to choose some fair, gentle, suminer day to ramble about the beau- tiful spots withcjul care or thought, except for Lhe joy of it all.' The new approach to St. John's, at the end of the Cross Country journey, brings us to another striking feature of the peculiar Colony. On every side is seen what appears to be a very prosperous section of country. Indeed, from some distance back one is struck with the indications of thrift in agricultural matters. And now this becomes more and more manifest in the NOTE 4. -NOTES HY CROSS COUNTRY TKAIN. MAY 1815.1. ' A grand sight is to be seen in Ccnccption Bay. Drift ice, and icebergs of the smaller order. Some ii close contact with the track, others as far as the eye can see in fact, as far out us Cape St Francis. It is learned that tvvt) schooners are jammed, one outside ot Bell Isle, which is surrouiided by h^rgs. 93 CROSSING THE A NCIENT COLONY BY RAIL abundance of the ripenin, crops, the well kept enclosures, and farm buddmgs. and in the homes of the families - very many in good taste, and good repair, and every way indicating abundance, prospenty, and industry. Our thoughts turn to the abandoned farms of other parts of America : of thf farm mortgages ; the lessening of ownership by the occupants : the increasmg distaste for rural life, the till- ing of the soil and the keeping of flocks. Nearly a decade has passed since the publication of •' Amer- ican Farms." The developments of these intervening years have only brought greater strength to our data, and increased significance and seriousness to the contentions formulated in that \'olunic'. The typical American farmer is each year becoming more extinct. His influence is becoming less and less felt in the national affairs. Among the fertile valleys and pretty hills in the milder climate of New England he has ceased to be a sh.rlow of power. They, who were first to found a nation which was reared and nurtured upon these very farms into a vigorous and sublime spectacle of citizenship and government ; self-contained and powerful in all the necessities of being and the principles of right and justice among the family of nations, have ceased to be. Their farms deserted : the land, so valuable in this now over- crowded country, teeming with life, run to waste. He who stops to consider, and realises the extent of this awful calamity which has at last come upon the great nation - the United States of America - the loss of the typical American farm, and the typical American farmer, is appalled by the 95 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY immensity ol it and the results. Results felt in the tenement districts of the crowded cities and manufacturing centres of America, where the cries of distress, sin. suffering, ever grow louder and louder, and criuje more tierce. Those vile dens where all that makes a human being human is lacking; where the irresponsible and nomadic class is ever increasing. Here see the result of the desertion of those homes upon the beau- tiful and historic hills of New England. And the power of those now tlirown into the vortex of the teeming cities is turned into the cries of despair, and the triumphant yell of the modern Huns and Vandals, predicted by Macaulay. But the delightful journey is at an end ; St. John's is reached. * ' THE ARRIVAL AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS ::;1 • I' ' ',1* "v ■ i *'' c 3 ''I o > if I M I ,' TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY THE ARRIVAL AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS On entering the city of St. John's by the Cross Country train, one is much impressed by the advancement and cultiva- tion evidenced about him. and the indications he sees of an enterprising and prosperous people. The suburban residences are very fine, in fact, some of them mansions; all displaying taste and refinement, as well as v^^ealth. The entrance to the city is made directly upon the site of that memorable spot frequently mentioned in the annals of the French and English wars- Fort William. In fact most of the immediate neighbourhood is historical. A few rods away to the right is Government House i the residence of the Governor of the Colony,, and St. Thomas Church, with Pall Mall very de- lightfully sweeping in between. A little farther along the same way IS the Colonial Building, where he Governm.... -^f the country meets for law making. To the south is one of the fi zest most picturesque, and safest harbours in the world, and beyond' rising many hundred feet, is South Side Hill, and a little to the left, that historic place. Signal Hill. Between these hills are the Narrows, the nn. entrance to the harbour. At the right ot the Narrows, upon the end of South Side Hill, is a portion of Old Fort Amherst, and the light-house in present use. On the opposite side of the Narrows is the remaining part of Fort Frederick, and, m close proximuy to this, the signal station a very important structure, which signals the approach of ships from sea. 98 a I I I THE ARRIVAL AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY The two prccionunant elements which govern the Hfe of the people here at the present time are at once observed, tlie great fleet of vessels lyin^; at anchor in the harbour and at the wharves, and the great number of churches in clusters, and scattered about all over the city. Oni;. representing the active, daring energy of the people, the other, their spiritual .iiid higher aspi- rations and hopes. Crosbic Hotel We find good accommouation at a hotel overlooking the har- bour, with South Side Hill. Signal Hill, and the Narrows in full view. And here, from the window, we inhale the stimulating air for many an hour. And for many an hour study the grand, inspiring scene in all its different aspects; b> all its brilliant I GO ? 1 ais(,t thuiuU-r. circling the distant h ^Ustant land ; wiic-n thf l,.iu ills, die in the •"^ flashes into view the ,.eaceful hai-bour wuh ,ts boats a , .,, . , '"■"'"''"' of U all min.. a ■ '-'"^"n; us nearer to the Maker iatu,n or ;;; ;::::-^'' '--■-- ------^-.-y-e. See; le of Sign-.! Hil! nnj N:iv ■■OA.-. tV-:,, f.; ,,,, w rdow Havin, ,a>ned a general ulea of the physK:a, features of the ^>ty, Its buildu-igs and environs, we turn our n.. .• in-onl,. Ti attention to the people. The majonty unpress one by the.r sn.cere and earnest manner and possess the di.nuy of well-occup.ed, full, r 2!! lives. After days of careful studv. on -^ver of the propuious influence pied, fully rounded e is more convinced than a nothern climate yields to th( lOI TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY building of strong races. It is a remarkable fact that one finds little, almost no, deformity or disease among the people of this city, exposed as they are to the elements and a perilous life. One may walk the street from day to day and not come in con- tact with physical degeneracy ; moral vices are also rare, bring- ing us to the conclusion that this great city of churches strives Parliament Building. St. John's to build up the physical being and the moral purposes, as well as to mculcate creed and denominational enthusiasm ; watches over the purity of life, as well as the organisation of Sunday schools. In rambling about, we come upon an imposing building with a fine front, having a heavy row of Corinthian pillars. While surveying it a labouring man passes of whom we ask its use. I02 ■ f /^"^ ARRIVAL AND FIRST I MPRESSIONS assemble. ,o •■ roh ,he p.opl. ' "-' "' ''•""■""ns, Houses .„ „„.,, An,enca, ,h. i ""■ "'"' *^'' ^•^"■ occupy for „.„,„.,„„^„^;;;^--~^ .^... .n...„ ..,„ 103 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY SONG DEAR OLD SOUTH SIDE HILL The foiulfst Ihoimhls of chililhood'N ilays Tw.ne rour.ii thee, lU'ar old hill, Aiul as I ^a/e. thy bare, bleak braes With love my bosom thrill. Ot all the hills that stud earth's breast Ami lc)rcij;n countries fill, I love thee more than all the rest Oh. dear old S.JUth Side Hill. CHORUS: Oh, dear old South Side Hill, Old, ruKKed, scraggy hill, I look with pride on thy sun-brown side, Oh, dear old South Side Hill, I love each nook, each darkling brook. Each copse of russet browi, : Each gully, pond and laughing brook That tumbles rattling down, I love thee, bathed in summer sun. With opal light aglow, Or robed in wintry garment, spun From woof of silken snow, CHOKUS Oh, dear old, &c. 1 've Heen the hills that proudly stand And stretch from shore, In many a bright and favored land Far-famed in song and lore ; But oh, there 's none so dear as thou, Old, shaggy South Side Hill, For thy iron front and beetling brow My soul with rapture fill. CHOKUS; Oh, dear old, &c. 1 04 TO THE OLD CAPITALS BY THE NEW WAY I've SL-cti Killarneys lofty Reck:i And noble Gailtee Mor, Ben Lomonds r.nd Ben Nt-vii's pt-ciks, And Sudwdon's Gl; dcr Kawr ; Tl-.f lordly Alps and Appeninc, And Ht-rmun's s.icnd height. But with all their cha.n,s. there's none l.k.- ih..-,c Can cluHT in/ wc:.iy .fe^y^^^^. ^-.f^ ^■■^J'.Pt^ "■^-^'^^ >^tW?^ ^^^uy;^^ ^^c£j^.^^ ^ I Ji^'^^-.(y lPz/v <^7^t-ir^-^-f~''*^f*^ ^2y-zu^^ PRESS NOTICES " How the , unhappy condition has results of the depression of the fa f^e way in which u .ay be^:..;^.:^',:^;; ;:!:'" '' ''''''"'-• - -" - " This httle book belongs to th,. • n,, . of meat as an egg. It is a carefunl "^"'•""""■^ "' "'' ^•''>- S^''"^^'' -^'' - as full in the United sStes w ih the s, T f ""^^^ "' ■^'^'^'"■""^'■' ^'^■'~- writer, and after a full les,.; uu n .f h f V'"'''^^ •''^' '" '''' °'^-^-" "^ '^"-■ taking hold of agr.cu.tur. ::2:n::." ^1:''^:!;; ^■'" ^'^^^^ '- '''--^ best tici^h; r^on::^ha:t:'g^:' ."■-;:;: t.: ^""""^- '^ -^ -^" -°-^ -^ pract;;i;'b:ron •a1:;::;x;;s""h^"'^; ' '''-'''' yo"-hou,htfu,and ested in farm hfe wuh mo" o J 'eont"a ',"' "V"-^' "^'"" ''''' '''''' """- plate ... State -any State --an:i:::':h J:,^ .rr^ '"'\ ' ^^'"'^'"- attracting those who would stand by it sJc, > ''"^'' °' your chapters on ■ Intellectual Dev 1 p..ent ' 'nd r' 'T'T '"^'^ ' '"■^•" '" you say of the possibil.ties in th J r sp ts of A,T ! °"'^'"' ' '^'=" agricultural Ufe hero North Wale. "^1!',^":;:"" '"" "^'^ ^'^^^'^^ '" " The author is an intense t'nthnsi-.ci u cavalry charger/' ~ r/,,.:,,,, ./,„,,„, ,„■ /,■,,„,,„„„,,, '"'"''^ ""^^ '' '^^'"'^"1 ^houid be read, not alone by eve;:f:;n;::^:f;;r:: ;:::;;:;-• ^'^ -'- our national welfare." - r ■„/,>„,,„„ /.■,„■ ■ „„,/ /J,,,, ;.. ' "'" '"^ ^'" '"''^■■'^^' '" '• Mr. Elliott ,n h.s book has probed the question deerlv .n 1 shows that he has wr.tten not only fr'on, a fulness of "w ed' ' bu rl""^' ^l of feelir.g." - nil..!, Ij,l,i„ /,v,„^ .y, ,rv. "^""wied^e, but from a depth 107 " Its title is very suggestive, viz., ' American Farms,' and it deals trenchantly. ; pertinently, and truthfully with what is fast becoming the burning question of the ? day." — /)'/vV/;/(7(