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Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmds en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole --► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche 6 droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 , •• V ^/■' yy i\ -^ c VANCOUVER ISLAND AND BIIITISII COLUMBIA. 1,1. M tl.N 1' 111 N 1 I. U .;Y !- I'OTT 1 S \V(UI I) V AN I' I o M < o 'A » O !n Z o M « W Bi O I t. ■■ s i o O o o t-H w O ■■» . M.\ I . '' I ; ^-v: „ # ■ '?',.: ' ^- ."V^ I -•^if*,'- *'»,. ■ -t •SSv -4'^ * -w 3 VANC()IJVKJ{ ISLAND AND I UKITISn COJJ'MHIA. rilKIU IIIS'I'IIKV, liKSdl'KCKS. AMI I'liOSI'KCTS. I l»Y MA'I'TIII'.W MACFIK RU.G.fS. f 1 ivi; \i..\u- i(i;-iiii.>r i.\ mmpima \.i LONDON : LOiNdALVN, (iliLKN. LoN(iM.\N, 'OULKTS, ,v (.KLLN. I SG5. l\ J • :.;> ///le^/^^ /^, TIIJ \ ."> I I • i<: 1 ) I ( \ 'I' !•: 1 > I V\ IT.KMI-^luN ) ro •I'lIK mOJIT HON. KDWAIIL) CAllDWl' LL. M.I'. III-K' .MAJESTY'S I'lilNCII'.M, sKchk'IWKY o].' STATK I'Olx- TIIK COLON! Ks. \ rUE 1 ACE 'J'jils voLO'i^ is tlic (Irst tliat Las been piil^lislied in tliis couiiliy (.'oiilaiiiiiiL!\/W// and cUh^sijied inlbrmation on the various topics re^'iting to the colonics of Vancouver Island and British Columbia. It is hoped that, at the same time, comprehensiveness has not been lost sight of in the grout)ing of details. A few other w(}rks have already appeared ; some of which give valuable statistics bearhig upon the physical and i)olitical geograi)hy, cUmatology, llura, fauna, and aborigines of these im})ortant dei)endencies. Some little has also been wj-itten on tlieir principal resources ; but all the l)0()ks that have hitherto issued from the Eno-hsh press on the subject put together fail, in the author's estimation, to exhibit the connnercial, timber-exportino-, mining, and agricultural capabilities of the colonies with the minuteness and i)rominence they merit. Had these points been discussed, however, in the most satisfactory manner, it is now several years since any extended account of Vancouver Island and Jjritish Columbia has been sub- mitted to the British public, and the progress of these thriving settlements in that brief and eventhil interval necessai'ily renders i)revious volumes, in many respects, out of date. a X •REFACE. The first cliaptor is in no way ossciitial to the ooiiiploto- iicss of tlio work. It lias, liowevcr, been deemed suitable in its present jilace for tlie twofoUl purpose of conveying some general idea of California, and i)lacing our [)ending dispute with the American Government on the question of their occuj)ation of the island of San Juan in a cleai' hi»'ht. Our commercial relations with the State referred to are more intimate than with any other on the racilic Coast; and as the auriferous mountains of British CoUnnbia are but a continuation of the Sierra Nevada in California, the Colony and the State may be said to be connected by a community of resources. The afl'air of San Juan has never been fairly stated by the newspaper press of this country. The body of the present work is intended c///<y7y for the perusal of merchants, statesmen, and intending emigrants; wliile it is hoped that it will not be found uninteresting to general readers. The author makes no pretensions to faultlessness of style under any circumstances; but the limited time at liis command for throwing his materials into shape pre- cludes the possibility of any such quality here. Still, it may be accepted in partial compensation for defects of composition that he has endeavoured, to the best of his abihty, to avail himself of the special advantages he enjoyed for collecting facts respecting the countiy of which he writes. The position he occupied for five years in the colonies alToi-ded him opportunities of becoming acquainted, more or less, with all classes of society, from the officials of Government to the most obscure citizens ; and in view of the task he has now undertaken, he laid liis friends under tribute. I re a I'RKFACR. XI omplc^to- suitublo )iiveyiii<i; peiuliiiu; qiR'stioM 1 Ji ck'nr rclcrred J racilic V)liiiiibia ilifornia, :tt'd by a I as never L^ouiitry. y for tlic liurants; teresiting sness of time at ipe p re- Still, it ^fects of t of liis iges lie mtiy of /e years icominut y, fi-oni itizeiis ; lie laid Till Avilhiii the last seven years, those possessions "were ri'irarded by the ])eople of England, for the most part, as a terra 'nu'Diinitd, cmbitieinL!; a j'eiiioii of the u'lobe inhos- jiitable beyond descripticm ; the scene of perpetual and sanguinary encouiitei-s lietween proAvling savages and beasts of ])rey, and having no title to be reclaimed by industry, or visited ^vitIl the benefits of civilisation. They still sustain th(> disadvantacfe of l)einr!f more incoii- venient of access from England than certain other distant 1 British (Colonies, which are iavoiired to receive from year to year the tid(3 of an emigrating population. Considering their remoteness from the ])arent country, the veiy limited knowledge of their topography, and resources still pos- sessed by the mass of Enirlishmen, and the conilictino- re})orts that have been circulated in books and iiews- ]ia])ers respecting their adaptability for settlement, it is not surprising that the most diligent efforts to arrive at a satisfactory conclusion on the subject should sometimes end in ])er[)lexity and disa])[)oiiitment. j\rany immigrants who have found prosperity — looking at the condition and prospects of the coiuitry exclusively from a favourable point of view — may, in some cases, have been tenn)ted to indulge in rejirescntations too highly coloured to their friends at home. Others, having the misfortune to share a dillerent fate, may have occasionally allowed trials to warp their judgment, and impart gloom to the expression of their opinions. These pages are written to aid in nnravelliuij!: this tanirled skein of contra- dictions, and to show that the country is neither a perfect /'J/i/.^iuiii, nor an absolute Sahara^ but one which presents a lield for the investment of capital and the ap[)licatioii of a 2 Xll PREFACE. indiistrv, unsurpassed in elements of wealtli, in propor- tion to area, by any oilier })art of the enij)ire. It' one hindrance to the rapid advance of these colonics deserves to be specified nioi'c than another, it is the wmit of an ciNit/raiit route from Cnuada to the liockij Mouii- taiiis. The interoceanic railway scheme, so nuicli talked of, is prematiu'c, though certain in future years to be realised. But a waa'gon-road, vio lied Ixiver and the Sas- katchewan, is ]>racticable in every respect, as shown at length in that chapter which deals with the question; and it is devoutly to be wished that Lord Wharnclifle, Mr. A. Mills, and other noblemen and gentlemen in both Houses of rarliament, who have recently evinced so deep and intelligent an interest in the subject of colonising the Great North West, may be induced to bring their hilhience to bear for tlie accomplishment of the object which is most urgent. Could the comparatively inexpensive com- munication thus sought be opened simultaneously with the proposed telegra})h fi'om Hed liivcr to British Columbia, especially now that ever-strengthening induce- ments to emigration across the |)lains are held out by the mines east and west of the iiocky Mountains, the settlement of the intervening territory would soon follow. While acknowledging obligations to the Governments of Vancouver Island and British Columbia for the maps and bhie-books they have so liberally placed at the author's disposal, thanks are due to the authorities at the Colonial Office and the Board of Trade for courtesies extended, and to those gentlemen of influence in Canada who, during his late visit there, supi)lied the an then* with valuable official documents. Acknowledj/ments are also -m rilKFACE. XIU 1 propor- } colonies the icmit hj Moun- ih talked ,r8 to be 1 the Sas- !;hown at ioii ; and e, Mr. A. li Houses leep and isiiig the hifhience which is sive coiu- isly with ' British I iiiduce- 1 out by aiiis, the >ii follow, enunents the nia[)s I at the ics at the :oiirtesies ;i Canada :hor with are also tendered to Professor Balfour, of the Edinburgh Univer- sity, lor an interesting contribution to the list of llora : to the Librarian of tlie TiOndon Institution, for access to CJovei'nnient pMjx.'rs ; and to tlie liev. E.W. Slialders, B.A., of liocliester, for useful hints suggested by his excellent taste and iudi'-nient. London : 3I(ii/ I80o. CONTENTS. »o*- CIIAPTEli 1. TUE VOYAGE OUT. l)i'])arturo — Aznros — Dosciiption of Passongors — St. Thomas, "NV. I. — ('artlia<reim™Sliarkt- — Scrnos on tlio J.-<thimis — Panama — Pas.xajjre to California — Acapiilco — Tlio Natives of Mexico — San Francisco — Tho Pfimidinf^- and (irowtl) of tho City — Discovery of (loUl at (iencral Sutter's INlill — Califoniian Life in LS4i)_' Powdvism' — The 'Vigilance Com- niittee' — Judjjfo McAlmoud — Present Order and Prosperity of San Francisco — l^'ertile ^'alleys — A Trip to Sacramento — State Legislature — Meetiuii- of the ' nemocratic Convention' — Mannnoth Trees — American Taxation — .Metallic Wealth of California — Washoe — I'p the Colunil)ia Itiver to Portland — Orejjon l-Vuit — Sail to the Isle of San Juan — Parley ■with Americiin Ollicers — Origin of tho Dispute between tlie JJritish and Anu-ricau Covernmonts, as stated from ihoir respective Points of Mew, PAGE 1 CHAPTER II. J' A y C U J ' A' A' / S L A N /). Toro(;itAriiY, geology, i'iiysical gkogisaphy, am) geneuai. HISTORY. The ICn^land of the Pacific — Straits of Fuca— Tlie Coast Line — Cieoloi;ical Formation — Sooko — lOsquinudt — A'ictt)ria — Islands in the Gulf of ( Jeornfia — Saanich — Cowiclmn — Nanaimo — Comox — Northern Extremity of tho Island — (Juatsino — Nootka — Diirclay Sound— Pioneer Discoveries in the Pacitic l»y the Spaniards — Balboa — Cabrillo— Ferrelo — Sir Francis Drake and his Adventures — Cavendish— Story of .luan de Fuca and his imagined Discovery of a Xorth-East Passage — Expedition under I leceta and (Quadra — Cook's Iioconnoitro of the Coast — Kendrick — Derkidey — Meares — A'ancouver's Mission and its Results — CJrantof the Ishmd to the Hudson's Piay Company — Thoir Monopoly mifavourable to Colouisatiou. . . lid XVI CUNTKNT;?. CIIAPTKW III. Till': Dlt^COVKUY OV Ool.lt IN IJHITISII ('()[. r.MIII.V I.N !^..S, AM> ITS INl-'LLENCi: ON Till; fiHOWTll OF VICTOKIA. Jiiish of rininiuTjilioii— SiiiMrn lli^o in tlii> \'aliii' of I,nii(l — l!!v,il ('Itir- iittiMiiiitt'il ])v the Aiiu'rioiiiis — I 'iitMiiiallcil Sii[ii'i'iMrily nf N'icinria ipul I'lxiuimaU I liU'lmiirs— IJciii;-!! ot" I'iiliii-liraricd S)irc(il!ili>i-J to ('iilirnrhia, aiiil tli.'ir .Malctliciidii- -Sirii^-li's ami 'rr'nmiplis u[' Miii.r^ n|i ilii« I'Vasi'v— llanlsliij IS nil llic Ni'W IJilllli' — 'I t'lniiiirarv ' 'luniii ' if \'iclnria — Yield 111" (iold Inr tlir li''st I'.Mir Muiilli-— State of t'le Citv in IS.V.l- N "liinus loi'k l-ettiTS of ihe ■/', .News ironi (^'iiesiielle — i innus ioilviiiii' up — I lie i,etiers oi iiie iiinrs CoriT'^ponileiit and the Inm ilioii of lS(i-J — I )i>iipiiiiiniiiii'nt and Pri- vation of tlh' ln('\]ieiirii('i .' 'e<cri])tion of \ ieloria a> it now is — I'.eaeoii Hill — ( iovrrnnieiit 1 jnii-c — Street^— I'lililie rmildiii^s and As.-iiciiuiiuis — Ne\vs[i,ipi r l'u'.-.-~ llidi^ious IJodies — ('olleL;v> ;ind Sclionls — ^.Manu- factories — .loiiit-Stoclv ( 'oin])aiiie.-< — Tlie .Municipal ( 'oiiiicil— Hanks • IVico of 'I'own Lots — lii.st of Trade.'i and iV)fo:?.siou.s. , . i'A(ii;(il CTIAPTEPv TV VirTOi;T.\ A.'< A FHKi; roKT. Triiioipal l^'ree Pnrts flivoii-limil the Wni'ld— jles'ilis o\' tlie l''ri'i> I'ori S\>leiii ill lianilnirL:'. ihe Chanutd ldand>. and lioiiukoiii:' — !in]iorlaiice of ^iianliii^' \ ieloria auain-t the InirMdiiciinii of ('nMo.iis l)iilie- — I'ro- ]io-ed Inioii with l>iiti.-h Coluinliia as all'eetini:' t!ie I'ree I'ort .\n'an;iO- iiieiit — Comparative I'ro-peclf^ of New We.-tniin-ier and \ ieloria — iu'so- lutions <d' the Island Lciii^^lature in vcjard to Inion — iuipoi-is — Xnniljer ami Toniia^J'e of \'eS.->rls — Ilxpnrtsof ( iuld iVolll I'^o"^ to 1>>('>I — Jv\ports nf iJritish and J""rench( iood.s to.">itlia — \Va>hinulonTerrit<n y — ( Jreppii — ( 'ali- fornia and .Me.\ico — Coniiiiandiiiu' rosition of \ ieloria as a I'ree I'ort, ami lliepowerful Indneeinents it olfrr-. IW'iti-li Merelianl.s I'.iv openiii'X up Tnale Avilii the Coa.-l of \\ e.-tern America — Facilities olleiecl li\ \ancon\er Island for lieliini Cargoes to China, Japan, An.stralia, and New Zealand — Califovnian Opinion nf \ ictoria as a proliahle l!i\al of San l'"rancisco — iK'scriptioii of ( ioods suited for the A ictoria .Marki't-llapid liu Tease' of Topulation in I'lcjil Sound — 'i'lie proposed l']rection of Msipiimall into the chief Naval Station of tic i'acilic, the Con.struction of a Sanilarium for iiualided Naxal .Men, and the bearing:' of these J'lvciUs ou the Crowth of Mctoria. . . . . . .ill CONTI'LVTS. XVI 1 l^.")S, A.M> • i.'iv.il ( 'ilic^ N ic'mi'ia i|i|,l to ( 'aliluriiiii, tiers (III til,. '!' ^'i(•^ll•i;l — V in Is.")!) — I' I 111' TillKS '■111 i\\v\ I'ri- \' IS — IJcK'nll ■*si)fiaiiniis- - "il.-< — .Miinii- 1 — i;.iiiKs -. . r\(.i; Cl ClIAPTKli V. fiKNF.n.vi, HEsoi:Rri:s or vancoiiveu island. TiMiiKr. : T'lxiinvt.s df thi.s Avtidi- — Profits ronlisod on it — Advanta<ros over ('jinmln !iti(i N.-w Uniiiswiclv -TiinbtT more rcmiiin'rativc io the poihiikhi Ciivrirr tliiin ( ioM— Trudi' in Ivvport of IJiiilwny SltH'povs — Vv'wva of Spurs, Mn.sfs, X'c. ('o\i,: Mines nt Xaiminio — ImnicnHO (Jonsuniption of ('i!iil on till' Coast — Clii'iuiciil ( '()in])arison (if Vaiicouvor Island ("oal with (itlicr \'urt(.'tif.s— Imports of Coal tu San Franciscd — Prices — Tiiick- ness of St'iMii — (^invtMiicnccs for Loadiiiii' — X'anconvcr Islaial PioiicovCdid- niinin^j^ Company— (^lantitics sliippud from Xanaimo — llcpurt of First Annual -Moftin}? of Directors — ( Ulicr Coal Companies. Coim-kk : (^iiecii Charlotte Island Mine— Iiispccticn of a ^'ein — Want of I Jritisli Capital to develop this Source of Wealth eU'eclnally. M.UJXrrnc lijox Old;— LniKsro.M;— Sandstonk— lir.fi: .Maiidm:— Ui.uf. Clay. Cot.i): First found in (,>iieen Chiulotio Island — Gold Stream — (iold discovered nt SooI<e — (ieiieral Character of the l{eL',ion — ' Prospects' obtained — Miiiln;^,' 'Claims' and ' ^'iejds.' I'lsn KitiKs : llerrin,e-—Ho(d!d;an— Salmon — Trout — Sliir;jcon — lialiliiit — Haddock — Pock — AVhale.s — Walrus — iMUvinn Market.-j to bo supplied . ..... i'A(ii; PJl I'Vee I ',,!•(, Inipoiiaiico lftie>---|'i-,,- rt Ai'i-aii'j-e- •ria — lu'so- >'— Xnniber -l-.\])nrts iif 'pill— ( 'ali- «' i'or!, and :-;• 14) Trade \ aiieoin cr '\v Zealand "raiieisco — liuivaM! of iniall into ■^anilariiuu lie CI row III . Ill CIIAPTEIi VI. AnitlCULTURE IN VANrOUVETl ISLAND. licnnuuM-ative Cliaracler of Ajjriciiltnral Piirsnits in the Colony — Cliniat(> — Soils— I''armiiiL!- Districts — Yield of Crops — Prices of Produce and Stock — delation of the l''re(>-l*(/rt System to the Question of Markets — F.vpens(^ of l''ariii Labour — Times of Clearinii', Sowiiijj-, Keapin^-, iVic. — Terms of A.uricnllural St'tllcmeiit 172 ( lIAPTKli VII. niilTISII COLUMBIA. niSTOr.ICAL 8KETCIL — GEOLOGY, ETC. Seaboard — Sir Ab'xaiider Mackenzie — First Trading Post — Hudson's l'.a\ Compuny's yr//<'^/;c — (ieolojjical Formation .... :.'07 CTTAPTEP Vlir. GENERAL DESCRirTIOX OF LKITISII COLrilBIA. SctMuuy in tlie Pa-snue from Mctoria to Fraser Piver — Cascade IJange — >iew Westminsitcr — Imports — Shippin_y Ifclurns — Customa Pevenuc — XVUl CO NT i; NTS. Kiitt'siif iMilit's L(>viiiltl('— (lovcviimriit riiiililiiiji.H— Clmrclios— l,iinf:lf_v — SiimiiHS ami CIiiliikwcviiK — ll.inixDii |{i\i'r— l»oiiirla.s - Diiirv iiraJomiify tlu'iici" <(• Williams' ( 'rck — Ciirilicn - 'I'lililf of Distances— I lopi« — Yali- llapiils — l.yltoii — ('liiitdii — William's l.iikt'— liniitfs rid |{riitiiirlv Arm and r.iitf Iiilt't - l.'oiit.s t.i Shuswai) . . . r.vui; -'lo CIIAl'TKK IX. Tin; MiNK.x OK iiniTrsH cou'mfiia. IHjr^i'inirs at ^.lp(•~'^■lll^•- SiiiiilKamci'ii — OKana^'nii — IJ-tfl< Creek — Traii- (|iiilli' ami N'mtli l!i\ its— Kamalnops Lako — (^iicsiielle -AiitliT — ('aril)ni( — Hcii lii'i'k l''liimc anil Ai'ti'>iiiii Mining'' ('omiianifs — II. •luarkalili' Iii- .stancfs (if Siicci'ss— Prices iit the Nui'llieni Mines - Sliiiswap and Koo- tanie l)iL:!.'inf;'.s — -Mininj^' IVnspect.s on tlio luirth-wesi ul" tho Fraser — Minin<^ Laws ....... -10 CHAPTKli X. I'ROCESS OF MININO. Jlsst-ntiuls for oaiTvinj.'' on .Mining; Operations snccessfully — Tlu> Art of * I'rospectiiij.''" — The I'se of the IJuckt.'r — Slnicinj.'- — Ilydranlie Minin;.'' — Water ('oiiipanies — The ' Khitter-wheel' — 'I'lirninji- a i!i\er out of its iieil — ' ( iround Sliiieino' — Tiniiiellinii' — (Quartz Mininj^' — 'J"he K'a.-tra — Cnisliini:' (^Miart/. by Steam I'owm' — '(^)uart/., tho Mother <if ( Itdil' . l*(J<> fllAPTKU XI. AGlUCl'LTUllAL IJE.sOUltCE.S OF BUITISir COLIIMIHA. Climate — l'"armin;^' Capabilities — Airrieultural Districts — Mr. Davidson's I'Aperience of Farmin<r north of the i'avillon — '^'iidd of other l-'arms — I'riiit —Stock-raisin^'— IJcinnnerative Character of J)airy Produce— Slieep — llou,s — Terms on which Land may be aci^uirod . . . I'^U CHAPTER XII. ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE TUODUCTIONS OF VANCOUVER ISLAND ANM) IJUITISII COLUMBIA. r,oar.s—llaooons— Marten— Mink— Skunk— Otters- Foxes— The Pnma— Its Kavatros— Adventure with u Punui— Wolves — l!iits—Sla"-s — Deer — Mountain .Slirep — liutns of Pkkv, .'v:c.— Swans, I'^ic— Lki'TIi.iis—Flok.v — Scioutilic Names of Aniirals — Li^t of Shells— Additional List of 1 lants . . . '>()7 m J oil) .loiiriicv I'litiiick Ann l'A(ii; I'l.-) •cck — Trnii- iT — ( 'nrildio lU'lillllli' III- [) 1111(1 Koo- lu J-'mscr — CONTKNTS. xiX ( IIAITKIJ XI If. I'OMTICAI, STATISTirS oK \ ANCOr VKll ISLAND AM) lUilTI.SII (OM'MI'.IA. (iii)iit(tr N'iiiiruiivtT IiIiiimI )o till' llml-Mii's liny ( '(inipiiny — riovcrimi' Uliiiisliiinl — (Irriii (il'llic ('nldiiiiil Lcirisliitiirc— Apiioiiitiiii'iit nf (lnvcviinr hoii^iliis— Dispiiti's l)i'i\vtM ii li](l.']ii'ii(|i'iit, Ciiloiiists ami llic Aiillmiitirs — Soiiri'fs 111' iJcvtiiuc — |''iiM; |;i|[ ,i( Aiiproprliitioii — |)I>j)Vnpnrtiiinati' l'iirillillrriliili;i nf ( luVi'lMllllrllt — IJiltcS of 'r(l\il(i(ill -I'lstillllltcM I'dT I ^( i I — Oppn-itioii nC (lie Li';:i,sltil lliv to tlu' I'l'dpoMlls of t he I Mlku ill' Ni'Wcastlt' — Till' First liC^islfttivf ( '(iiiiicil uf |)i'iti>li ( 'nlmiil)iii — l{<'r(']ttiiiii of (lovcriior Kcllllrdv — Tllr (,'llr^tinl) (if I'llidll lli'tWcCll tllf two (\ili)llii'S — l'lll)li(; i;.\prii(li(iirr 111" till' I'.rili-Ii Coliiiuhiiui (iii\ criiinrnt in isi;;', — Clicfk ^'ivcii to IniniiLiration in l'^-")-^ h\ tlu' ri'strictivu rollcy of the Coloniiil (lovcrniiH'iit iind the Iliidson's I Jjiy Company — Toslimoay of tlic (Irand •hivy ........ r.vui; .'JlU 'li<> Art of • .Mining' — out oi' its ' K'li.-tra,— )ld'. L>()(> l^avidson's V I'iirms — ro— Slifcp .AND AND 1 I'unia— Its ' — Deer- ' OS — Fl.oK.V _": il J.ist of • . :.'J)7 :i CHAl'TKK XIV. PIlOrOSEl) INTKUOCKANIi* IIATLWAV - E.MinuANT HOUTK AN!) TKLE- GllAl'ir THEIll INFLUENCE ITON TIIH <il!(t\VTII OF TIIE COLONIES. Wt'.-twiird, IIo! — Triidc with the lljist cmetcd l)y Western ?Niili(ins iVuni ri'Uiote.st Anti([nity — The 'IVrian-^, t^'c. — .Vle.vander tlie (ir.;it — Anlioehiis — Mahomet — Tlu' Arahians — KlVect of tln' Discoverv of a l'a-sfiy(> to India t'id tlio ( '.'ipe of (iood Hope — America found in tlie yoavtli for the ■•linvtest lloiile to the Mast — WIiv lias this (.'(immunieation. so industriously soui;hl, never lieeii iiritelienlly reiilised ? — Masterii Trado now to IK'W across to tho American Side of the I'aciiic, and ^reat Cities to erow np in its Track— 'l"he .\mericaiis prepitriiiy to receive and distrihiitu Fastern Commerce hy the Construction of an Iiitei'oceanic IJailway — "Would such a Line on tlu^ Ih-itisji Side pay!' — It must prove the shorte.-L po.ssihle Iioute to Australia and China as well as Uritish Columhia— The ])oliiical I'tilitv "f tlu' Scheme — How transcendent its Jntluence upon Mctoria — Most eli^nhle Tract of Couiitr_\ tor the proposed IJaihvay— Sineiilar natural I'\'aturc^l of the ^reat \'alleys throuuli which the Line would pass, favcHirin;^' its Construction— Central I'osiiinn of lied Kiver Settlement— Koad via St. Paul'.s — Alle;i(,'d Diiliciilties in the Way of extendinii' the Line from Vovi Carry to Canada— IJailway Knterjirise not lil<elv to take inimediale IClfect — kanijirant lioute imperatively demanded — 'i'he Course it should take from Lake Superior — How are tlit> territ(U"ial I>i;^hts of the Hudson's I >ay Conijiany to he adjusted i" — Dr. IJae and the Teleua'aph — Climate and Soil of the Country between Cauada and xx ( ONI'KNTS. Jlriti>h Coliimliia— Till' Aduptaldlity <>|' II. il liivrr nml Snslinloln>wiiu lor ('uldtiisatitm — Tip' (ioM hiMcovcrii's Must nl" ilii> IJucliv Mninitniiis aiul tli.'ir Atlr.'ii'tii)iis — rii,s^(>s in lln- l{iiii^.'r -l.nnl Millon's .l.urm'v — his- tjiiict'H rrmii liiiKi' Superior to Cnrilioo — Striilf' dI' llii-'Mia in Oiii'iiin;.' up Wiitci' iin>l 'rdrLiriipliic ('oiuiiiiuiicnlioii liclwci'ii tlic Aiiioor llivcr, Siiliii, luiil Si, P( tcrftliiir;.'' — hi'siiriis of Nnpolroii III. in iJiliition to .Mexico mill Trade in tlie I'lU'ilic— Ms whom i> tln^ tloiied IJoiito to bo I'oruied ■' — Note ....... . I'Aui; :VM CIl Al'TF-K XV. soriiyrv in vANCorvKR i.^^land and uhitisii coi.rMniA. \'iii'ieties of IJiice veprcJented in \'icloi'iii — Tscliiidi'.s Cla-.-ilicatioii of IIiiiikiu Il\l)rids — The ultiiiiale I'.ilec I of present lieterou'eneous Mixture of TvpcH iipnii the Clinracter of tlie Population — Civil hisiihiliticH imposed on Neproes and ChinanuMi in ( 'nlifoniiii, to disroura^je their llesideiice — >fis-<ionMrv l-nhour anion;^' tlie Cliiiie^ie — \'isit to a I'midhist Teiiiph' — Address of tlie Chinese of \'ietoria to the (iovertior — ("oiiditioii of tlu> Nei.'Toes — DitVerenees liiiweeii them and tlu- Whiles— Sir .lanu-.s Don^hn — \ enlant Siniplirit\ of New Comers — l']ii;ili>!i and Aiiierieaii Ladies i-om- pared— Toll" i>f Society in Is,')',) — |)i'talcatioiis of ( loveniineiit Otiicials — Ivscapade of n (j)iiacli — ' Widows' and their Adventures — Temptations of Yoim^r Men — The ' Skedaddlev' — I'lxcitenient of ('(donial Life and it.s MUect on the Iirain — Intelli^>-ence of the Coniniunity — The .sdcial Pyramid inserted — Life at the Mines — Miners' Ten Coinmandnieiits . . .'.{"S I M M ni C li< .1 inii ( IIAI'TIIK' XVI. T]Ii: INDIAN.^; OF VAN(OlVi;i{ ISI,ANI) AND IIHITISII COLUMDIA. Tlioorio.s as to their ()ri;jin — Their prohahle Miuvatioii from Asia — Xnmcs and t)ocupations of 'i'rilj'S — Their Ideas of Lank — The ' i'otliitch' — Feasts — Dramatic Lxhihitinns — Mysti'ries of ' Kbupiolla ' — Llrctioii of a, 'Medicine ^Lm ' — Canniltals — Converse with the Man in the Moon — Doct ir.s and the Healiiiji- Art — Incantation — Witchcraft — Ideas of IJeaiity — Troutin;' for Peace — An Indian \'illa;:t — (iainhlinj^- — Heraldry — Credulit}' — Convlsiiip and Marviau'i — Sepulture — Ihirniiii;' tlu! Dead — Catching,'- Crasshoppers— Main Muldn;.'' — Tradition of the Creation — The Yd/r and his Doinifs — The Flood — The S'ini-nxK/iiis — Theory of Thunder and Li^htnini;'— Jieli^ioiis Meliefs of tlie I'Tshin;.:' Tribes— Tn.'achery and Dloodthirstiness of the Indians — Ma,s>acres of Whites — Jvxciting Imi- counti.'r of Sir .T. Dou;jlas— Catiiolic -Missions to the Natives — The Si^ii df the Cross— Awkward Pie<licaiuent of IU>hop Hills — Papal * Srlt'-iuter- pruliu'r JJible' — Pr.jtestiuit Mission to the Tchiniseans— (lood Work of cnNTKNTS. XXI toliowan I'lir iiiitiiiiis mill mifv — IM.H- < )|trl|ill;r lip liviT, SitKii, I'l .Mt'sicii t'nriiit'd ■' — ■■\(>i: 'AM Mr. iMiiiciin — Till' Opjuwitinn nC ^fl•l^K•illl' I'/irtii's — lv«<tiil)lislim('iit nl' Mi't-la-l<iit-liili — 'rrttitiii'iit 111' I'liict'iiriiii'd ' 'I'illuMiiiw' — (Jovci'tiiui-iit iiiul I'l'iisjirrity of the Niiti\i' Sitlliini'iit — Iii;:i'imit_v nl" tlu> Tribi's — ('i\ilisiiti(iii mill llviiiiij-rli^DtiMii sliiiiilil pt IiiiikI in liaml — Ktip'nl Itimiiin- timi mid lliniili'iird llvtiiirtinii nl" PiiuiitiM- 'I'rilii'.s— luicr.s not lilvidv to tli.-'ii[i|M'iir liuvi' ill!' lir-l Cltiiin n\h>\\ Mi.«»iiimiiii.'.s — C'lmntv.s t»f u Imr- baritiia IV'iipk' siiniviii^' ..... p\<ii:Il'."j (II \i"ri:u XVII. irniA. 1 i>r Ilinnnii Mi\tiiri' 1(1' I'H iniposi'd {('.•tidi'iiri> — 'riinpK,'— tion 111" till' ii'.-t I JiMiyliiM .nilirsconi- ( )llic'ial,s— l])tlllililH nf it'i' II lid its id I'vniiiiid \ ;.57.s UMDIA. ia — Xmiies '(.tliitcir— irlioi) III" a ' Mm 111 — (if IJt'uuty Ifnildrv — i)i'ad — tidii — TIu; 1' 'riiiiiidor rlicrv and ■itiii;j' I'lii- II' Sijjii (it" >ilt'-iiitiT- Work of EMKJKATION. fndiici'inciils oil'i'i'i'd — f'liissi's cncoiirajjfd to Ilinij.'-mtc — Cajutnli.'-tw Wr^ntcd — Miiniil'arturi's tliat iiii^jlit lie inti'iidiicrd — ( 'liiiiati' Inviting' to I'ltiiid Ollii-rrs mid Minul' iiiMili'rati' Mrfiiis — ( )piiiiii^.-i I'or vi'spi'diilili" iM'tiialr-^ — I •iini'iii;;' rniiiid n rxiinict — ( 'aiilidiis to I'lnii^Tiinls — Ifatr-* <it' \\'a^!i's — J'rifi's — llniitrs i'lMin l'l!i;:land — Hints as to Clioii-L' of \'i'ssi'l and Oiitllt — — Iliiidninrrs to rolonial I'ro^i'i'Sd — NciTssity l'<>r ilinct Postal Connmi- iiicalinii with I'liiijlaiid — ClaiiiH nl" voiiiil!' Cnlniiirs on tlio Aid oi' Mii'dand — 'Pradi' I'or an Miiulisli Sti'anirr in tlio Nurtli I'ariiic; — Contrast lietwi'i'ii llif I nitrd Stairs and i'ln;i|anil in tin ir Carr I'or Nrw 'IVrritories — Mrror of till' ( lovornniiMit in di-pn-in^- uf lii.>Ii i'lmi^ii'iition — JMnij^ratioii tlio ino,>t iinpnrtant (iuiblioii (if tliu Day .... VXi Al»l»KNI)IX. IJcqiiiriMiicnts fur tlio ^'oya;i'|• — Miini'\ — Insnranrp — Tinii' of Sailin^r — \'irtnnii and l'"..-i|iiinialt llarlmiir l>nis Act — Land I'roidaniatioiis — lliilos for Working (iold Mini - ...... *">l'>> iNnrx . rj.-,u Ma Ma Rn Tk. Wc IIy Gr TIr Ca' LIST OF TTJAISTEATTONS. -*«>»- MAPS. Mat ok Vancouver Island and Bjirrisn Columbia Mat showing Oviuiland IIoute Pai/e '.V,) » AVOOD ENGRAVINGS. River Operations on the North rAciKic PUOSPECTOKS AT NVOKK WoUKINO AVI Til THE llOCKER . Hydraulic Minino Ground Sluicing TTklvetia Quartz IVFill, Grass Vallk.y Catching Gkasshoiters Frontispu'ce Voijt 2G7 ') 209 »> 271 V 275 >' 277 *» 450 VANCOUVER ISLAND AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. CIIArXEll I. THE VOYAGE OUT. Dcpartiiro — Aznros — Descriptidii of Passenfrera — St. Thomas, W. I.— Cartliaooua — SliarlvH — Scones ou tlio Isthmus — Panama — Passao-e to California— Acapulco — The Nativos of Mexico — San Francisco — Tlie I'oundin^'- and ( irowtli of the City— Discovery of Gold at General Sutter's Mill— CaIif^)rnian Life in 1849— ' Kowdyism' — The 'Vigilance Com- mittee'— Judue 31 Almond — Present Order and Prosperity of San Francisco— Fertile A'ulleys— A Trip to Sacramento — State Legislature— Meeting of the 'Democratic Convention'— Mammoth Trees— .-bnerican Ta.vution — Metallic Wealth of California— Washoe— Up the Columbia Diver to Portland— Oregon Fruit— Sail to the Isle of San Juan— Parley with American Ollicers — Origin of the Dispute between the British and American Governments, as stated from their respective Points of View. The route to be presently described is not selected for notice because it is believed to be necessarily the best though perhaps more could be said in its favour than for any other — but simply because it happened to be the one taken by the author, and affords him an opportunity of referring to places visited on tlie voyage to British Columbia tluit ctumot fail to interest emigrants who may determine on following the same track. B Tin: V()va(;k out. Oil tlio 2iid of August, more tlian ilvc years ago, I euibarked in one of the West Indian Eoyal Steam Tacket Company's steamers from !Soutliampt(3n. Extracts from a journal written at tlie tin\e will best convey to the reader my impressions received during the voyage : — 'After siifTering for a few days tlie usual ])enalties incident tt) ?/;q)rofessional navigation, the j)assengers gra- dually recovered their accustomed comi)lexion and made their ap})earance on deck. ]3y Sunday all liad become proof against the elements. 'In harmony with the sacred character of the day, a brighter sun, a clearer sky, and a calmer sea clianged the jispect of the scene. Service was conducted on board in the morning by a clergyman, wlien all devout hearts glowed with gratitude to tlie Almighty for })reservatioii and fair weather. 'In the afternoon, at five, we iiHtde one of the Azores, Terceira. ]]rief as the space was since we caught the last glimpse ol the English shores, it was a pleasant relief to the eye — for seven dnys in contact with the blank waste of waters — to I'est on land once more. By the aid of the glass we could descry the terraced vineyards, scattei'cd orange-trees, and picturesciue houses in the distance. In the course of the same eveninu; we siuiited Pico, another of the western group, whit-h derives its name fi'om a mountain, 7,000 feet high, in the island. This petdv, so majestic and so lonely, gilded by the rays of the setting sun, was an object of unconunon splendour. It was not long before this "thing of beauty" disappeaied in the gathering obscurity of the northern liorizon, and the only natural scenery by which die uniformity of the passage was subsequently varied consisted of occasional " schools " of porpoises, shoals of ilying-lisli, and Ijelts of sea- weed ; TIIK WKST INDUES. •s ago, I II Tucket will best .irinji: tlie ])enulties 11(1 iiiiule . become le (lay, a iiged the b(jai'd ill .It hearts servation e A::ort's, t tlie last , relief to Ilk Avaste id of the scattered lice. Ill another from a peak, so le setting was not d in the the only ' j)ass;ige schools '' ea-weed ; ! the (hrection in which these last lloated indicating the course of the gulf ^troam. A classification of our fcllow- [uissengers by country would include English, Scotch, trish, Spanish, I'ortuguese, French, German, Mexican, &c. Their creeds were almost as varied as their nationality. As I'ar as I can gath(.T anything about their ])ursiiits, they number among them a West Indian chief-justice — not always "as sober as a judge" ought to be, an attorney- general, a clergyman, a Dissenting minister, an army ullicer, a royal engineer, merchants, medi(\al men, and ])lanters, bound for dillereiit parts. Only two out of the >ixty on board ar<; going to Bi'itish Columbia. SSV. Thomas, W. /., Ai(</i(st IS, 1851). — I shall not soon forget our ap])r<jach to the " Virgin Group " by the Som- l)rero passage. It consists of a cluster of lofty islets and r(3cks, extending about twenty-four leagues east and west, and sixteen north and south. Tlie blue summits of those islands, their numerous channels, bays, and promontories, their hixuriant growth of trees and slirul)s, and the bri«»lit green of the cultivated estates they contain, are admitted by those familiar with this part of the world to exhibit an asp(.'ct ol' enchanting variety. The gr(.)ves of pahn Uvv><, the white rolling surf, the lights and shadows of passing clouds, present views of combined novelty and mauniiicence. So freshly fair are overvwhoro the foatuvos of tlio scene, 'I'liat eavtli appears a restln^'-plaoe wliere angels mii>lit alight, As if sorrow iu''er a visitant in hiinian breast had been, And the venlure of the siiinnier months hail never snil'ered blight. 'That mind, ac(|uainted with the history of the West Indies, must be incapable of sentiment, which, in a region so rich in historic associations, sails through it without beiii'' I'eminded that within siuht of the vessel's track Columbus passed more than three centuries and a half ii-2 4 TIIK VOYACSK OUT. au"(). Ti) liim lu'longs tlic liOnoiir of iH'iiijT disci )\-oi'('r of llic Viruiii (Jioiip, tlion iiilmbited by IiHliaii camiibals, cuIKmI ''Caribes," utter whom tlie nclglibouring .sea was luuiu'd. 'Tlic liarboiii' of St. Tlioinas is a scone of peculiar aiii- inatioii twice or thrice a montli by the arrival and depar- ture of transatlantic and intercolonial steamers. Here passeuLjers by the lioyal ^lail Company's ])ackets chanue' ships accordinu; to their respective destinations. As soon as we ariived, our steamer was besieged witli crowds of boats, i)lied chielly by negroes, waitiug for hire, and pleading hard for their ol/jcct Avith the massds that were hioking down at lluMU from the vt'sscl's si(U'. Then fol- lowed the more elegant b(~»ats of merchants in cpiest of ])ackages, news, or fi'iends from I'^ngland. Shortly after, a couple of do/en negro boys, practised divers, came swinnning round us, and repeate(lly calling out, '■' Mo.s/ux)^ one dime." Their hope was to induce the passengei's to pitch ten cent pieces into the water that the black youths miuht have the satisfaction of scramblinsi; for these coins under the surface as they descended to the bottom, and that the donors might be entertained. ' IJeing (U^tained here four days, I have had an (Oppor- tunity of seeing something of the town. It is built partly on a Hat and ])artly on three hills which abut from the mam range to the shore, Avith savannahs between. The heat is past endurance. White suits and straw hats were visible in all directions, and umbrellas were generally found necessary to ward oil' the ])otent glare of a tropical sun. The population of the towm does not much exceed J 0,000, and on all the estates in the counti-y inclusive does not reach l,r)(i(). The bulk of it is composed of negroes, eml)racing every shade of colour, from the ])ure African to the octoroon. There is also a considerable . 18LAXI) OF ST. THO^fAS. 5 ovcivr of •ainiilnils, ^ sea was uliiir aiii- n\ (lepar- s. llei'o Is cliaiiLi*} As soon row (Is of liiv, and liat were Then fol- ({uest of ■tly after, rs, came '' Moshoo^ JiiLiers to k vontlis ese coins torn, and n (^])por- ilt partly from the L'li. The lats were generally I tropical li exceed inclnsive posed of the ])nre siderable wliite population devoted to trade and commerce. St. Thomas is the renowned banking depot of the West Indies. It contains no public buildings of any importance except j)laces of worship, in which religious service is conducted by Lutherans, Catholics, Dutch lleformers, and Episcopalians respectively. l*alm and cocoa-nut trees gratefully alternate to the view of a visitor from Northern Europe. The markets are held in a small square in the main street, ami in an alley leading thence to the sea- shore. Here all manner of wai-es, especially an olla podrida of eatables, jire disposed of amidst a heterogeneous and unceasing gabble of negro female voices, e. g. man- goes, butchers' meat, bananas, shell lish, pine apples, sweet bread, cocoa nuts, yams, sugar cane, melons, oranges, limes. In the evening the chatter of darkies' voices in the streets, and the loud choruses of frogs in the gardens, combine to produce a singular efTect upon the "Hritisher." ' The morals of the connnunity do not seem in the most satisfactory condition. A clergyman long resident in the isl;nid writes thus : " In the majoiity of cases the marriage- tie is sluunu'd or des[)ised, and thus a Hood of vice and nnhappiness is [)oured upon our connnunity, and official accounts inform ns that three-fourths of the children born hei'e are illesjitimate." '■In 1S48, the authorities of the island, n<nv a Danish ])ossession, were coni[)elled, by an insurrection of the slaves, to grant them innnediate emauci[)ation. The benelits accruing i'roni this measure to the negroes and their masters have fallen i'ar short of what philanthi-o[)ists might have anticipated. Many persons of colour, released i'rom the ])e]'formance of compulsory labour, are now willin«>- to work onlv Jis much as the necessities of a bare subsist iicc demand. But the Government introduced a (\ TIIK V()VA(ii: nlT. " Labour Act," rcciiiiriiiiiiill i'wv labourers t«> (Mtuti'act with employers for a jx-riod of not less than a twelveiiiouth at a time. They also deem it expedient to extend the a])plication of law to the relaliiais between master and servant uioro ri_Lridly than would be called for in a voniKil state of soeietv. \\\ this means manv evils have been prevented that have been complained of in the Ih-itish West Indies in connection with the abolition of slavery there. we liave bei'u kept nearly a day, from the dilliculty of obtaining' the sei'vices of a I'cuiilar ))iIot to take us u|) the channel, which is circuitous, to the basin. 'J'he coast from !?auta ]\larta, where we landed mails, to this i)lace, is rockv, and the hills Iviim Ix'hind are covered with (k-nse vegetation. ( arthaiieiia was foimerly one of the most flourishing setth'ments in the Spanish colonies, and still boasts souie good buildings and a considera])le poj)ulation. It is over TOO miles I'rom l^t. 'I'homas. Tuder the inllueiice of the Jesuits, and from the revolutionary spirit of the peoj)le, its glory lias dej)arte(k lit present the town, which is tlie seat of government for the state, is convulseil by revolution. The ex-Vice-rresident of the TiCgislative Assembly and staff were recently banished, and took refuge imder the neutral flag of a Ihitish man-of-war at anchor in tlie haibour, whence they took passage by our steamer to Asjunwall for the ])m'pose of unisteiing troo])s to defend their cause. l*oor Spain! she seems to have neither had so(rial stability nor ])olitical vitality sufficient to establish peaceful and enterj)rising colonies, though the clioicest climes and richest countries on the globe fell to her lot. But how mighty nuist have been that nation which gradually conquered and attempted to colonise the greater [)art of North and South Amei'ica, while holdim^- wh oi ISTHMUS OV I'AXAMA. TiU'l witli nioiilh at tenil tlie ister Mild a nonnal [ive bt'cii (' I'ritish I' t^lavcrv :J.— Tfeiv (lidicully ike us uj) riio coast ])lace, is th (k'liso IlU lilosi and still ipiilatioi). iiilluc'iu'c it of the 10 town, oiivulsed ■'gislative md took ;)I'-Avar at e by our ig ti-oo])s to llJlVO suflicicut oud» tlio Jc fell to t nation )nise tlie holdiii!"- under lier sway several West Indiiin islands and tlie t'aiiest ])arts of Euroi)e! '\\\ tliis day her huiguage pre- vails in all the republics soutli of tlie United States bordei", down to (!hili. ' I saw huge sharks ])1aying lazily at tlie vessel's stern while at anchor in the harbour of Carthauena, the usual coin])lenu'nt of pilot-lish preceding each of these monsters with all the dignity of niace-l)eai'ers iit a Lord Mayor's show. It is said that while sharks have !i powhitnt foj- white men, they do not esteem darkies (food ctffhif/, and conse(|uently they are rarely if ever in their "bill of fare." Cei'ttiin species of monkeys and tro[)ical birds are to be nic! with here in al)undani'e. ' Pdiianin, An(/n.sf 30. — I arrived at As])inwall on Thurs- day eveiiiiiLi", and took the; train the ibllowinix morninii' across the isthnuis, nassinii: throudi a tract of countrv which used to be ucneriillv regarded as the most unhealthv on earth. It rained nciirly the whole Avay in torrents, and hi'rilic thuiidi'r-storms o(;curi'ed at intervals. I am b.iked and stewed with the heat. This moi'ning the sun was ]-!()° in the shade. I'anama is about S decrees from the e(|uator. Fetid swamps exist on either side of the raihvav at this season, liefore the <2;round was ])artially drained l)v cutting the line, it is estimated that, by the action of the torrid rays u})on those abodes of malarious fever, 1 (),()()() workmen met an untimely grave. There Avas, however, sullicient variety in the route to divert the tlioughts of passengers from these gloomy themes. I su}){)ose thei'e is nowhere to be seen such wild luxuriance. Castor-trees, acacias, cassias, palms, cKic, w^ith innumerable fruits, grow without a touch of cultiva- tion. Every now and then one sees groups of native wig- wnnis along the road with inclosures of tropical fruit-trees and Indian corn for domestic use. These huts arc often 8 Tin: VOYAfiM OIT. incoiivonicMitly woll voiitilatcd ; for thty caniiol, wliilc so 0|)(Mi,air<>r(l ('()m])k'U'slK'lt(M' IVoni the trcinoiidiMis rains tliat fall for sevonil moiitlis in the ycai" ou llic istlinius. Tlu'y usually rest on tall props, and arc I'utcrcd by a ladder throuj^li a hole near the eaves. 'I'hus the natives {)i'oteet themselves tVoni the wild animals that inhabit the woods and juuLrles. They are known as {^|)anish neLiroes, and both men and women look clean and tidv. JUit their male children are allowed, for the first few years after learniuix to walk, to uo about in a condition of stark nudity. At the I'aihvay stations the natives drive a strong trade hi boiled stalks of Indian corn, ground cocoa-nut cake, bananas, oranixes, limes, iced water, milk, <Scc. At As])inwall and Panama passensici's are bored by countless' darkies ])ushinLr the sale of mcoons, parrots, monkeys, Tanama hats, besides " hot colTee, if you are cold ( ! ), and iced liiuLjcr-beer, if vou are wai'm ! " These idle fellows have migrated, for the most part, from Jamaica, and, rather than return to their legitimate employment as free labourers on West Indian plantations, where their services are requiretl, prefer to live here as vagrants, on the brink of stai'vation. 1 have uiet some who actually (Confessed to mc that in many respects slavery, undei' a kind n\aster, was more t(^ be desired than the aindess life they are now leading. Having to stop here a wei-k, I have seen a little of the neighbourhood and the people.' To those who have been accustomed to see the waters of the Pacific daily for years, ])(»ctic fancies on this sub- ject look ridiculous ; but the tiist view of these waters in the bay of Panama is remaikable as reviving all the romantic associations which the tales of youth threw around that vast ocean — coral islands, golden strands, missionary adventures, Spanish galleons, British })rivateers, and Eed Indians. N. wliilo so ■jiiiis that i. Tlu'y ji ladder s pfotoct c woods •<»c's, and Uit tlit'ir ars al'tcr of stark a strong ocoa-nut i.^'('. At 3oiiiitles;l'" iioiikcys, (!),aii(l .^ I'd lows ca, and, it as iVce ' services he blink 'oni'cssi'd I niiister, are now n a littk; waters tliis suh- k'aters in all the 1 threw strands, ivateei's, TOWN' OF PANAMA. Joiirnitl resmnct/. — 'The fare; to Panama by railway, a dislance of only ITJ, miles, is 5/., and for eveiy pound weight of luggage over oOlbs., the chai'gc is h<l. per lb. No wonder tlu're is no Panama Railway tStoek in tlie 1 market ;• it is too valunble an investment to sell out. I'anama has (juitc an aneieiiL appeai'anee ; the streets are narrow, and the houses have lattii-ed windows and veran- dahs. It is unsafe to be in tlie streets after dusk, as all sorts of refuse is uneeremoniously thrown from the windows. 'The Spanish, in eaily times, built several l\oman Catholic clun-ches in the ^Moorish style, and the spires of the princii)al of them still display a ])rofusion of mother ol' pearl. The better class of ladies dress extravagantly, and, as throughout the whole of South vVmei'ica (one might add everywhere else), woiuen are the chief sup])orters of [)laces of w'orship. When a iady is dressed no boimet is worn, but only sonm light onu'.r.R'ntal covering thrown on the back part of the head. It is uncouunoii for her to walk out alone; she would feel not <ifri('ul but ashamed if imaccompanied by I a servant. On Sunday the native '^wX foUoirs her mis- I Iress to church, carrying the carpet on which she is to kneel on the optMi imseatetl space of the church floor. \ Last Sunday T could ])erceive no distinction in that day V from other days, except that a few worshi])|)ers repaired to church in the morning. The I'cmaindei' of the day ai'ter noon was s])ent in mule- racing, cock-lighting, or some kindred recreation. The priests have, in many cases, no scru])le about training dogs or other animals to fight, and lisking heavy stakes uiK)n one side or other in the sj)ort. No Protestantism is tolerated here. ''Sun Francisco. Scj^t. 1(). — We sailed from Panama Pay on the 1st inst., and reached this port on the 14tli. I was not sorry to leave Panama, notwithstanding its interesting i 10 Tin: voY.\«ii: on. \isii)iis (tl" linliliiiiiu-hiiu's 1>V iiiulit Mini bii/xards l»y day.* I \\i!s liaMc to visits in my bi'ilrooiii iVoni Hroh'liLiiuiu'iiiii (•(ickroMclics, and llu' tabl»' at nu'als swarmed willi divci's I'orms of insc'i't \'\\\\ cNcitiiiji' tlic a|>|)ivlu'ns'n)n that it was ahont to lake itself oil'. We were conveyeil to the oriUin ste;nnerl)y /(7/Jry, sc\'ei'al miles in the hay, in «'onsi'(jueiiee oftlu're not beinjjf pt'oper whaif aeeonunodation nt-ar the shoi'i". The scene that now l)nr>t upon me was di-eidedly the most novel and animated I had yet witnessed. Six Jumdreil |)assenu'ers who had just arrived fiom Xew York were takiiiLj: ship for ( 'iilifornia, and this number ^vas lu'- low the average at one time, the year round. The sti'anier's burden was over li,(MM) tons, aiul the ])as.sen<^^ers and crew weit' for the most ])art Amerieans. At 1 A..\r. tlu' Liiiu was fu'ed, and the j)addles wei'e soon in motion. The islands ehi-trred in the bay ai'e beautiful, especially Tal)o_L''a, which is about foui' nnhs from Tanama. 'J'he steamers ])lyinLi' on the South American coast of the Paci- fic, combiiu'(l with the mail and opposition lines to San Francisco, create considerable trade and cir(ailation of monev in the neighbourhood, Jiaiij^e enuineerinu' estab- lishments erected on one of the islands are kept in I'ull blast, by the reciuirements of the sti-amers. 'After a niulit's rest,! felt resi^nu'd to my new situation, and sliared a community of interest for the time bcau"' with all on board. The aft (piai'tei" of the steamer was furnished with four distinct lloorinus, risinn' one above the other. 'J'he lowest was the saloon of the second cabin, a miserable hole containinu* a few berths, and stowed I'ull 'i'tii' first iirc a sjiccit's cif tly tliat is visibloat iii;:Ii(, wliicli emits a spark with every motion •>!' its wings, and when a nnnibor of tlieni aro together tht; elleet is very tine. 'J'lu; second are cniws of trii])ieal size, that iorni a kind di' vohinteer Siinit;iry oomniitteo liir n'nioving all lecident mutter tliul may be tlirown from llio doors of iLiuti-liors, lishnidiigers, and provision- mcrchants. a '1^ PASSAdK Tn «'AMI'(Ht\l A. i I by (lay.* i,LfUMi,'iMll 111 (livci's III it WJIM ('(jUCIlCC lu'iii' the (.'('ick'dly ■d. Six '\v York was \)v- 1. Til." SSCULTlTS t I A.M. moiioii. pc'cialiv I. 'J'lu' ic I'aci- ^ to S;ili itioii of X csImI)- iii full 'nation, f bcMllL!' icr was ovt' tlie I L'al)iii, ed lull s ft sparlv it form a LtttT tlliU rovi.-^ioii- of liiu'iiau'c, llic tciiipcialui'c hciiiLi: 'i<>t t<> siill'ocatioii. The iK'Xt was llic saloon of IS liisl calHii passcii^^crs ; the iK'Xl was the >alooii of A liist cal)!]! passi-ii^^ors, jiiid tin- lopMiost tlic liiii'i'ii'aiK' (K'ck. '1'Ik! second cabin, and especially the steeraii'e j)asseiipM's, had a ron;ih time of it. The latter had to stand at meals, which were served np to a conple of hnndi'ed ol' them at once in tin dishes, npon a deal table lowered by ropes from above their heads. The state-rcjoms in ihe |> sdoon of 'he lii'st cabin con- tained tlii'ee berths, risinir ])arallel the one above the other. In these we Liravelv stowed onrselves awav like mnnnnies. with this dillerenee, that we manaLfcd to j)reserve va^aie sij^iis of conscionsness in this contini'(l space. As tlu' Novaue advance(l and the chai'acteristics of the ])asseniiers (levelope(l. 1 found tlu'm a nualey thron'4 : y^Mnu" men u'oiiiLi' to push iheii" fortune, wiws with youn^i;' families to Join their husbands, parents on a visit to |)ros])erons chil- dren, merchants in pursuit of business, women to supply the demands of vice in ( *alitornia, bankru])ts, pimblers, lliie\es, fai'uieis, miners, doctors, lawyers and ministcM's. This was my lirst expeiience of Americ;m society. We wei'e much s(K)iier at ease with each other than we should lia\'e been had W(» been all ISritish subjects. The nK)st profane knew how to be civil. JMany grcjw upon ac([uaintance. 'Ihe most huml)le American has always somethinu' to say worth listi'uing to, and the Yankee aHisan can assume maimers that compare favoiu'ably with those ol" many who pretend to bi'tter station. The shar])ness of an American's perceptions, whether man or Woman, is eminently noticeable. There is a laru'er ])ro- ])oi-tion of relined and delicate beauty among American ladies than is to l)e found among the English fair sex, but it is usually of that waxen hue that soon blooms and soon fades. After ])cH'oming a mother, the American huly's 12 TlIK VOYAnK 01 T. t'licvks colliipse. Tlu'ir lIiuMicy (by Avhicli I rullicr ineuii rapidity of utterance) and vivacity aie luarvelloii^. American boys liavc bnt a bliort cliildhood, and American ii'irls bnt a sliort vontli. In a certain walk of life the one sex are "smart" traders at litU'cn, and tlu' otlier nivj/irts at twelve. There is a dash of generosity about the people for which we look in vain to the same extent anions- Eniiiishmen of the same class. JJnt oidy a wider ranjix; of observation can enable me to do justice to tin* nation. I decline to accei)t the political or " rowdy " class that occasionally liuine in "runch" as fair specimens, any more than 1 would view the swindler^, swell-mobs- men, fops, or workhouse people as conveying" an adequate notion of the wliole-heaited middle classes of 'Hut to retui'u. In favourable weather ([uadrilles were the amusement of the mass in the evenings, and eards were in vouue all day Ionic. . . . 'We cauu'ht j^iimpses of the coasts of Guatemala, C'osta Iiita, and XicaraLTua. in CV'utral America, but were out of siuht of land lor a day or two in ci'ossiiig the (bilf ol" Tehuaute])ec, as afterwards that of California, (hi ihe 8th we anchored in the liiu'hly-])ictui'es(pie harbour of Acapuleo, in the state of Cnierero, Mexico, and ^toppi'd several hours to coal. I went ashoi'e, and was most fecblv reminded, by the present dilapidated aspcet of the |)lace, of the importance attachinu' to it centuries auo when i^i)anish argosies used to brinu* I'ich freight from Manilla, and ship hence the ])recious metals iVom ^lexico {) Spain. ]Much the same scenes of idleness wei'e visible as I saw on the isthnuis. 'fhe poorest natives, lre(|uentlya mixture of the S|)aniai'd, the Indian, and the neu'i'o, do not seem an industrious race, I o])serve(l the lower class eim'aLi('(l in gambling and selhng the [)ro(hictions of the countiy to C'ALII'ORXIA. 13 lior mean arvc'llou^;. Viiiericaii C the OIK! I'ej/irfs at le people il ainoiin' er rai)t;'e e nation. ^la.ss that ens, any L-'lI-inobs- yiiiii' an las.ses of les were 1(1 eanls la, Costa >'i'i'e out (fuh" of nil Ihc" 'l)our ol' ^t')j)pt"(] <tiechly e place, i> when Manilla, ) Spain, sav/ on ctnre of cem an iLied in nti'v to persons in transit like ourselves. Many of the cultivated JMexieans are enterprisinii and immensely wealthy.' I will take occasion to say here that the plan of Na- poleon in the coup (h'tnt of Mexico is not understood in Knu'huid. In another chapter it will be shown that his objects in I he late conquests of that c;ountry are quite as much com- nicreial as political. J5ut IMexican gentlemen, who were i'ellow-passengers on the homeward voyage, gave me to nndcistand that the throne of Maximilian is only sup- |)orted by French bayonets, and that their withdrawal would be attended with his banishment. When our i-teamer passed Acapulco, going southward, a few months since, we found it blockaded by the French squadron. ./otiriHiI irs/nnc/I. — ' The priests in ^Mexico are, as a class, very cori'npt. I think I have heard that their unworthi- ness resulted some time au'o in the dissolution of the tie between them and Home. 'Glad was I to get out of the tropics, and l)are my locks to the noi'thern breezes. JUit how^ shall I attempt to speak of California P I take it to be the Avonder of the world. The state is T')() miles in average lenujtlhand 250 in breadth. It was discovered l)y k^ir Francis Drake in 1570, while engaged in one of his buccaneering ex])edi- tions against the commerce of Spain. What a pity that the discovery should not have become associated with the name of that distinn'uished navin'ator mnh'r more honour- able circumstances. From its white clills he named this new land Nova Ar.iuox, and but for the a])athy and iLiUorance of (fid Albion (onlv now' beuinning to cive way) resjiecting the resources of the coast, the " Union Jack," instead of the " Stars and Stripes," would this day be lloating over the entii'c region from the northern boundary of Mexico to the liussian possessions of America. 11 tin: vovAtii': oit. Vacii ill Drake's liiiio tlic iiu'tallilerous cliaractt'i' of lliu (.'oiuitry was helievocl in, (or an old chronicler of tlic adinirars expedition says, '• 77/(' cdrfh of tlw couittri/ seemed to jiroiiiise I'ie/i reins of (jithl (Did silrer, i^oiiie of the ore In'iih/ eonstandji fonitd on d/(/(/in(/.'' In view of the important commercial rehitions rapidly springiiiLi' u|) between this state and our colonies on the coast, tlie' reader will IbrLiive any tres[)ass on his patience which a brief glance at California niav occasion. The mid entrance to the bay of iSan Francisco — to whi(;h city I have paid three hcparatc visits — lies in lat. .'37° 48' X., and lonu:. 122° oO' \V. This entrance consists of ii strait cidled Chri/sojn/dr, or the Goldex Gatk. This designa- tion was a[)plied in 1S18 by C'el. Fremont, before the modern discovery of <jfold, and was prol)ably hitended to be descriptive of the rich products of the soil yet to l)e exported, and the commerce of all nations to be imported throuu'h that channel. This strait is a mile wide at the narrowest point, and reaches an a\eia!ie breadth of h'oin ten to twelve miles; the entire length of the bay from north to south i> about seventy miles, l"V<>ni midsummer to Xovend)er tlu' hills by which the bay is llanked loL)k ])aiche(l and barren, but from the latter month till ^lay, thi'Y are clothed with verdure. ^Massive forts defend the approach to the city, and as I ))assed throiig'h a few inoiiths ago, an iron-clad ship of wai' was being con- structed ex])ressly for local service. The iirst dwelling ever built by a white man on the present site of v^an Fran- cisco dates back to IS))'). 'It was simply a large tent, su[)ported on ibui- ivd-v.'ood ])osts, and covered with {i ship's Ibresail.' Xine years aft(.'rwards. Verba 15uena, as the place was then called, contained but a dozen houses, audits permanent population did not exceed lifty ])ersons. The Mexican war resulted in the annexation of Galiforiiia SAX rii.\.\X'isco. 15 IT of tll(j T of the 7/ secnn'd '/' the ore s rapidly '^"^ on the pationcc )ii. T]io liicli cily ° 48' X", ;l .sti'uit dcsigna- i'ore tlio .'udc'd to yvt to 1)0 iiiportod at tlio of from )ay from Isiimnicr <('d l(H)k ill :\lay, fond llio 1 a fow^ Uii <'on- -Iwollin^' m Fran- 'go tout, with a -lena, as housos, poi'son.^. difornia to the United States, and from 184G — the year in whieli that event took place — the progress of San Francisco was sensibly quickened. It is estimated that when the rush to the 'diggings' connnenced in 1848, the residents had increased to 1,000. It is not quite seventeen years since then, and already the city is inhabited by 120,000 souls, many of whom are tNillionaires. To secure deep water for shi[)ping, one-third of the place stands on piles extend- ing a considerable way beyond high-water mark. Lots for wharves — surveyed on the Avater — that in 1847 could have been bought for 20/., are now worth 400,000/. each. As an example oi' the strides with which city pro])erty advances in value still, it may be mentioned that a gentle- man, known to a friend of mine, invested 1,000/, in town ' lots ' in 1800, Avhen I was on a visit there ; and in Jime last, when sto])ping a few (hiys, I was informed that the Aveek before my arrival the same party had been oU'ered 10,000/. for the propuily, which had thus in little more than four yeai's augmented in value tenfold. 'J'he total ^■alue of exports from the state for 1847 averaged >??120,0(H). Thu entire expoits o^ proiluct'toits for LSO;) are c-lassified in • 'i'he Mercantile Gfazette and Trices Current' as loUows : — . lsoi.'!/.):.") . 2,ls:i,15;] l:!4,()S(; ll,L'sr) 87;!,s.-,4 The discovery of gold operated like the manipulation of Aladdin's lamp, in inaugurating that era of stupendous prosperity under which the state continues to llourish; and IVndllCtH 1 lit' tile miiii' .'luricultiire the hird . tlio I'orr.-it . the sfu iimiiufiicUirt llu' villi' , 1(5 TIIK VOVACiH OUT. my apology for referring to tliis eircumstaiicc is, that tlie^o pages iiiay be reatl by many wlio liave I'rown into mau- liood since it was first l)rouglit under the notice of the British pubUc. General Sutter had erected an adobe (i.e. of untempered mortar) liouse a few miles from what is now the site of Sacramento city — situated about a hundred miles from San Francisco; and, s])eaking from experience, I am of o})inion that the sight of that homely (hvelling — of liim whose name is prominently associated with the early de- velopment of California — niust lill the intelligent traveller with emotion. In the winter of 1847-48, the general made a contract, with one James W. i\larshall, to erect a timber saw-mill on the south fork of the American river. Marsliall was enLi'aLxed one dav in makimx alterations in the 'tail race' of tlie mill. and. for this ])urpos(\ let on the water in full volume. While walkinii on the bank of tlie stream next morning, he observed ghttcriiig sjx'ck^ mixed with the sand and iiravel that liad bern washed down by the force of the water. One of these, 1)i'ighter than the rest, ilrew his attention, and on examinniu' he found it to be a scale of pure gold. Ticking \\\) a few specimens he showed them to the ireneral, in a state of ureat excitement. The statements of the man at hrst appeared to Sutter so ex- travagant tluit he tliought him crazy. Hut on seeing the s[)a]kling scales, he too soon became infected with what miners call ' the i/e//otc fever.' Tlu' discovery could not be long kept a secret. The news jlew to San Francisco ; spread to the Eastern States, and elect I'ified the world. Men of all trades and professions, and of every nati<jn, in a few months had found their Avav to J:!l DonultK One migget was found of t/iirf('i'n pounds iri'ii//if. Li anothei* instance, five loads of auriferous earth, sold fur $7b{), 'THE hounds' and their doings. 17 liat tlit'se iito llUlll- 30 of the eiiiperud U3 site of lies iVoni I am of —of liim (jiirly de- travL'llcr contract, saw-iiiill ■«liall was tiiil race' cr ill full jam next witli the the force est, drew )e a scale sliowed lit. Tlie ■r so ex- 'iiiLi; tlie ith what ould not •ancisco ; e workl. lation, in Id. One I another jr ,J?7.')U, yielded, after washing, i^JG,000. Three men obtained ^8,000 in a single day. The rise in the price of flour was at first deemed moderate — 400 per cent, and of beef 500 per cent ! Soon, eggs rose to one, two, and three dollars a piece. Medicines, e.g. laudanum, fetched $1 per drop, and ,$'40 was paid for a dose of that quantity; a pill cost /^lO without advice, and with it from S'dO to i^lOO. The mechanic that previously thought S2 per day good wages, now rejected ($20. At the end of July '49, nearly two hundred square-rigged vessels lay in the bay at one time ; and no sooner had they dropped anchor than they were deserted by their crews ; and, in many cases, goods and vessels together went to ruin for want of hands. In course of time men arrived, willing, for fabulous wages, to follow their accustomed employments ; and wharves, stores, and other improvements became visible. Gambhng saloons were the almost universal resort of successful miners, who, in their reckless disregard of gains so easily acquired, were often known to stake bags of gold-dust, amounting to thousands of dollars, at one time, upon, the turn of a card. If unlucky, they would leave the gaming- board with a liglit heart, confident of speedily retrieving their fortunes. On the \nvjQ wave of immigration that set in at this period there was floated a considerable proportion of the convict poj)ulation from New K^outh Wales, famiharly known as ' Sydney ducks,' together with ex-fi/ihuster.s', and the most notorious pinks of American rowdi/isni. These ruflians organised themselves into a society for the j)rofessed object of 'mutual defence,' but their real pur- ])ose was to hatch schemes of I'apine and plunder. They adoi)ted the sigiiilicant sobi'iquet of ' The Hounds,' placed themselves under a sort of disciphne, had head-tpiarters in a certain part of the city, and appointed a 'lieutenant' to c 18 TIIK VOYAGF. OIT. c(^n(luct tlicir (Operations. Their niinibors wciv estimated at 'JOO. Sunday was their • lield-day,' wlicn they paraded the streets, armed with bludgeons and loaded revolvei's, dis])layinijf hainiers, and led with life and drum. Their i'avourite sport in dayliglitwas to f'oree their way in over- ])owering strength inti) taverns ;uid hotels, demanding exj)ensive fare, and in I'eturn for the hospitality extorted, they smashed all the furniture within their reach. At night they sallied Ibrtli, tore down the tents, and pillaged tlie houses — ehielly of foreigners — often without provo- cation, beatin*'- their imoflendino' victims with clubs and staves, and wantonly liring upon them amidst the shrieks of women and the groans of wounded men. When public indignation was roused airainst their hnvlessness, they adapted their tactics to the crisis, claimed to be the abused guardians of the community against the encroachments of t^[)anish inunigrants, and had the ell'rontery to drop the desiixnation of *• hounds,' and assume that of ' rei!;ulators.' The respectable citizens, finding the constituted jiutho- rities too weak — at so early and chaotic a stage in the history of the state — to deal Avith this formidable emer- geiicy,took the law into their own hands, formed tliemselves into a V(.)lunteer corps, and arrested about twenty of the rioters. A jury was summoned, judges and counsel ex- tem])orised, and the trial which was held resulted in the leader of tlie gang, with eight accomplices, being sentenced to v;.irious terms of impris(jnment. Several of the 'hounds' escaped from confinement, owing, Avith other causes, to the insecurity of the tem- porary prison, Avhich was the hull of an old vessel in the harbour. Their success in this res])ect emboldened their companions in crime, and scenes of i-obbery and murder were enacted l)y them on a yet more IVightful scale. In the coui'se (jf a few years the city was Inirnt to ashes i'lvt' . J I % t LY.N'Cll LAW. 19 stiinatcd l)ara(l('(l .'VolvtM'S, . Their in ovcr- inaiuliii^' ixtoi'U'd, icli. At pillaged t provo- libs and I shrieks Ml public 'ss, they e abused nients oi' b'op the ilators.' d autho- e in the le emor- .nnselves y of the nsel ex- d in the Mitenced nement, he tern- .'1 in tlu! ed lluMr nnu'der ale. In lies live or six times over.* Otiicr towns in tlic state shared the same fate. No one could have any doubt in regard to tlie autliors of tliis wholesale incendiarism. The leading citi- zens, waiting in vain lor the local Government to adopt edicient measures for repressing these outrages, determined u|)on organising themselves into a ])crmanent 'Vigilance Conmiittee.' Such was the name by which this remark- able association was known, and occasions soon happened for testing its utility. To strike terror into the scoundrels that wei'c sj)i'ea(ling desolation tln\)Ugh()ut the state, daring burglaries, as well as crimes of higher degree, were punishcid by the ' Committee' with deatli, after being faii'ly tried. An hour or two after sentence was pronounced, the crinunal was marched t(j the jilace of execution. As soon as he reached the spot the rope was adjusted round his neck, in front of a Avarehouse or a ' derrick.' He was there hoisted from the street by the simple aid of a pulley, the infuriated mob — im])atient of all ceremony in the operaticm — 'swinging him oil'.' It was not surprising that this association, whose acts had the sanction of the mass of the ])eoj)le, should be brought into colhsion with tlu^ ' pro})er authorities.' But so impotent were the latter at that time, that they were obliged to witness, without even attein})ting resistance, the [)risons broken into by the crowd, and their more dan- urerous inmates draa'u'ed to the callows. Whatever view be taken of the informal ])roceediiigs of these exasperated citizens, it is satisfactory to reflect that no innocent blood was shed by them, and no culprit was condemned without receiving an imj)artial trial. It is certain that their con- duct can only be correctly understood by the peculiar circumstances in which they wciC placed being taken * Tlio corporate seal of the city iippvopriately exhibits a plueiiix x'lmv^ from it." allies. c 2 20 THE VOVACIK OIT. into account. The effect of the ' Vi*,nlaMce Committee orixanisjition uj^on tlie bench and tlie bar was sahitary. To sweep away from California tlie ai)pallin[^ corru})tion of that period was a task tliat miLjlit well remind us of Hercules mid the Augean stables, ihit the imi)ortance of the results am})iy rei)ays all the tt)il and iuixiety ex])ended ; for it uiay be asserted, Avithout fear of contradiction, that ^^an Francisco is now one of the best governed and most prosperous cities in the world. The ornament of the bench in those primitive days, and one of the first magistrates to introduce a ])ure order of jiidi(ual administration, was W. 15. M'Almond, Esc]., a name still much venerated. Ilis honour, however, had a sovereign contempt for legal technicalities, grandiloquent speeches, and learned citations. ' The judge ' opened his court ill a school-i'oom. His seat was an old ricketty chair, and, when sittiihi ollicially, his feet were generally perched considerably higher than the level of his head upon a small mantel-})iece over the fire. It is said that he was in the habit of paring his corns or scraping his nails while the 'learned counsel' was addressing the court. On one occasion his honour outwitted in an amusing manner a lawyer who was anxious to dis])lay his abilities. When the first witness was called, and the counsel was })rei)ared to put questions in the usual tedious fa:ihion, the judge, without changing the posture which has just been described, instructed the witness to tell all he kiicAv about the matter in as few words as ])ossible ; requesting the lawyers at tlie same time not to interru})t him with questions. This witness had but little to say, but gave ])lain stiaightfoi'ward evidence. The counsel was about to call anotlier, when his honour inlbi'iiied him that it would be unnecessary to pursue the enqiiiiy farther. ' The Court,' said he, ' understands the merits of J rROORESS OF SAN FRANCISCO. 21 ininittcG Mjilutary. )rruj)ti()n iiid us ()(' rtaiice of :|)eii(le(l ; tion, tliat Liul most vc (lays, ircj order 1, Es(j., {I :3r, liad a liloqiK'ut enod liis ricketty j^oiicrally liis licad vaid til at })iiig liis sing the :1 in an s])lay liis and tlic 1 tedious v Avhicli o tell all possible ; nterrupt e to say, counsel lied him enquiry nerits of tlie case, and its mind is made up.' ' But,' said a lawyer, ' you will at least hear us speak to the points of law.' ' That would be a great waste of time, which is very precious,' replied the judge. ' I awjird the plaintiff ,^150. Mr. Clerk, what is the next case?'* The nund)er of churches in San Francisco, and their tastel'ul architecture, are very imposing. The leading Christian bodies are in every respect well represented. The nmsic.'d part of ])ublic religious service is artistically conducted, and there is as large an amount of educated pulpit talent as could be met with in any otlier city of the same extent. There being no established church in the states, all })laces of worship are called churches, and these are I'or the most part largely attended. The clergy (there are r.o tiiuu.stcrs) aiv generally well remunerated. Their salaries range from tU)()/. to 1,()()0/, a year, ai)art from marriage and baj)tisnial fees, which vary from 201. to 1/., according to the memis of the parties. Magnificent asylums for the blind, the sick, and the orphan, schools public and ])rivate, and colleges, meet the visitor in every dii-ection. Monster hotels, superior to any in London, and nearly equal to the best in New York, offer the most perfect accommodation that even fastidiousness could tlesire. In the suburbs are mansions decorated with costly embellishments of Grecian architecture. An air of activity, comfort, and grandeur pervades the well- dressed multitudes that incessantly cross one's path. A monetary panic was reported to be imminent when I saw San Francisco recently ; but to the eye of a stranger this alleged crisis would seem only to exist in the public imajiination, for no indication of it could be traced in the exterior of society, which was sui'prisingly animated. * Annals of San Francisco, p. 239. oo TIIM VOYAfiK OIT. Tlic croiioral piv^spcrily of this niiirlily ^'tttporitun is to nil M])|)(';ir;ui('c' ms littK' alU'i'tcd hy pciidiiiLr iulvcrsity as tlK* licaltii of a souiitl physical system would he hy a scratch 1)11 the skill. I was admitted, thi'oiiuh the inti'oduetion of a tVieiid, to the mint, where 1 had an oppoitimity of seeiiiu^ the iiiler- cstiiij,' j)roeess of traiisunitiiiir gold tlust into coins of the value of ,|?20. ^10, S\ S'l .^Uc, $:\ and S\. An ollieial of the establishment informed me that in ]S(k> coins to the value of ^:] l,l()(M)()(l had been struck oil'. 'I'he <jfreat valleys of California are those formed respectively hy the courses of the Sacramento and Sail Joa(piin, with their tril)utaries, of the ISuisum liiver with the creeks Napa, Sonoma, and IVtaluma, and of liivcr Guadalupe. In these fertile districts the grape is largely cultivated, and every kind of farm produce grows luxuri- {mtly. A gentleman of my accjuaintance in Sonoma has an estate containing I'leveii miles of fencing round its circumference, and many proprietors of ranckefi have much larger holdinus. In some of these districts a common yield from wheat is from 70 to SO fold, maize occasionally gives a return of 150 fold. Potatoes have been produced of the enor- mous weight of seven mid eight pounds, and the usual yield of that product is from two to three hundred sacks an acre. Carrots often grow nearly a ya-d in length and of corresponding girth. Turni])s as large as hassocks, radislics as large as mangolds, pumpkins from 200lbs. to 'ioOlbs., and squashes Aveighing 400lbs., are not unfre- queiitly seen at agricultural exhibitions held in San Francisco. A trip to Sacramento gave me an opportunity of visitiii"- the state legislature in session, and I must confess that the spectacle w^as not calculated to heighten my admiration of I ui A I'OIJTICAh MKl'/nXd. 21] > is lo nil ity MS tlic 11 scniicli I'lic'iid, U) \V, illkT- is of iIh; II ofliciMl coiii.s to lonnod 1111(1 San yvv witli of liivcr s largt'jy s luxiiri- louiii has ouirI its ((t?6' Iiavo III wheat a ret urn he enor- !ie usual 't'd sacks igth and lassoeks, )Ulb,s. u, t unfre- in San visitinjjj that the ation of llie maimers ol" American le_nislat(ti's. 'i'he majority in the Senate and Asseml)Iy seemeil to have ae(|iiired the unrortimatc! Iiahit of ehewin*:' tobat:eo and spittin;^' fhi' juiee e\j)i'i'ssed iVom it ujjon the eaipeted iloor. Outside the bar ol' the i\sseml)ly several members ol' the House were siiiokiiiL'' under the eye ol' the Speaker. The lobbies, too, were ehiborately besmeared with hiiiiily-ilavoured saliva, and slipju'iy I'rom the [)rorusion ol' orange peel distributed in all direetions. Curiosity ])ronipted nie to attend a nuieting of the Denioeratic Convention whieh was held there during my visit. It was assembled in a ])laee of worshi]), and scenes occurred dnrinu' the proceedinus settinn' at deliance all one's British notions of pro})riety. The mercenary s})irit that actuated the trustees of a pku:e devoted to the worship ot" the Almighty to rent it for an ii])roarious political uatherini!', and the sentiments of men who could use it for such a purpose, are alike open to grave censure. The church on that occasion resembled a bear garden. TIk' chairman impresse<l me very forcibly with the suspicion that he had not recovered I'rom the edects of a jolly dinner, and several of the speaki'is were evidently in the same condition. ]\losl ol' the audience were standing on the st'ats ot' the pews widi their hats on, blowing clouds from tlieir ciu'ars, ;nid e.\])cctoratiiiu' without regard to the distiin'tion between benches and Iloor. Fierce alter- cation acconi[)anied with ])ugilistic exercise was of fre- (jueiit occurrence in dill'erent parts of the l^uilding in the course of the evening; and, knowing the expertness of that class of Americans hi the use of bowie-knife and revolver, T thought it exj)edient to l)cat an early retreat. Sacramento contains between 15,01)0 and '20,000 in- habitants; and though it has been repeatedly submerged by Hoods and destroyed by lires, it still holds a linn 21 THH V()YA(ir, OTT. I position !is !i coimnciciiil ('ciilrc thi'ou^ih tlio hrnve vigniir Mild ('iiti'rj)i'is(' ol' its nicn of Imsiiit'ss. CVrUiiii portions ut* thi' town, as in San Frnncisco, arc exclusively occnpic'il by Cliinanicn, wiiosc tails, llyinj^ about, present an intiMTstini; ap])earanee to a stranufer in nearly all the r>ritisli and Anieiican towns on this coast. iU'tweeti •10,0(10 and r)(),()()() of these 'Celestials' are en<,'a«;ed in sundiy branches of industry in C*alifoi'nia. reihaj)s the ^^reatest natural wonder in the state is the manunoth-trees (Welliniitonea j^i^^antea) in Calavei'as County. One of these is loO feet hi_Ldi and 35 feet in diameter; and it would take five ii^ood axcMuen 25 days to hew it down. 1 was infitrniecl by oiu' who had visited the spot that the toj) of a stump has been converted into the lloor ol' a dancin^Lr-room, ami all()rtls easy scope for a moderate-sized party to indulge in 'light fantastic' gyrati(tns. The following table, supplied to me by a gentleman residing in riacerville, will convey an idea of the enor- mous amount of taxation levied in an inland town. This rate is, I believe, greatly exceeded in vSan Francisco. tl /;/ tal City liit-iiso ou nnnual sales uiulcr ,^1000 . Ffdoml „ „ . . State and county tax City prdpcrty tax ...... 8latt; and county property tax .... Income tax on nett profits (with tlie probability nfl ^ bfinfT increased to U) percent.) J Three separate pull-taxes from $0 to $d per annum. 2 poi • cent 2 M 'H M 2 M o a^ >> There is a spccitd feature in the topograpliy and geology of California that cannot fail to deepen the interest of everyone concerned for the ])rogress of British Columl)ia, in the resources of the American state. Ecenj indication of metallic or mineral wealth in the latter IlRSOl'RCKS OP CALIFORNIA. 25 lie bi'MVo CV'iUiiii s:i'lu,sivL'Iy t, prc'sciil, •ly 1.11 (lie IV 'tween ^.M'.'t'd ill ale is (lie lal.'iveias I') feel ill 1 (lays to d visited rted into ■<('()] )e for antastic ' oiitleiiiau he eiior- ■11. Tir SCO. T Cent. M M ft >» I US )liy and pen the f JJritish Every e lattvt' vi'n (/>'»'.->' f/n> fnhire profiprrifi/ of nuinmi enterprise in the former more certui i. The i'a!i<;e of the Sierra Nevada — the source of metallic riches in California — is but an e.i'fensiou of the ntetalli/erous ridje that passes throiti/h llritish Columbia ; and the hir«jfe (juantities of jj^old alrcuidy taken from the mountains of British territory — notwith- >taiidin^' the limited ai)i)liances hitherto in use — ^^ive ahundant })r(>mise that when more ca[)ital and labour shall have been attracted to the colony the variety and extent of its resources to be devolo[)ed will prove bound- less. The following extract from a masterly article, entitled 'Mining Review lor ISO.*],' was published in the 8an Francisco ' Mercantile Gazette and Trices Current,' and put in my hands by the editor: There is pcrluips no other portion of the glol)e of like extent coutHinin;jf siu'h ii variety and iibundaiice of inineral products aH the American possessions west of the Rocky ^lomitains. Within the limits of our own state there is scarcely a metal or mineral known to science but what is found in (piantity sufficient to justify their beiny; worked. . . . Tims we have <jfold both free and in combination with other substances; silver in all its varieties, of which there are twenty-six recognised by metal- lurgists ; copper, viigin and with its usual associates, iron, mer- cury, zinc, lead, tin, arsenic, bismutli, antimony, and platinum, with many others of minor importance, — all here in such abun- dance as render them marked features in the mineralogy of the country, and warrant the belief that they will very soon be extracted on a scale ample to meet every home demand, with a large surplus for exportation. Besides these metals a great variety of useful minerals abound in all parts of the state, chief among which are coal, salt, sulphur, nitre, alum, borax, asphaltum, chalk, soda, magnesia, and gypsum, with limestone and different kinds of marble and other building stone in endless variety. With a field so rich and boundless it is easy to see that the business of mining must grow rapidly on this coast. 20 TIIK VOYAliK OIT. The latter remark iiicludi's in its applieatioii ISiilish Columbia a.s ai)})r()priat(.'ly as it does the state to wliieli it was intended speeially to refer. In California, plan'r or surface mining (the poor man's diiXi>"inLi"s) has been dis])laeed by the introduction of mechanical processes which large associated capital alone can comj)ass. Chief among these is ' hydrauhc ' mining. The sphere of this ojieration extends from !Shasta to El Dorado, In some of the claims worked on this princi[>le many thousands of dollars are taken out at a shigle clean- ing up. Ill this mode of working immense blasts are used — a single one exploding from 200 to 500 kegs of powder. The silver mines of Washoe — only as yet in the sixth year of their discovery — yield over ;^20,000,000 a year ; the rate of production increasing annually. But argenti- ferous leads are not confined to this district. Some claiming to be equally rich, and still in their iniimcy, are found in the region east of the Sierra Xcnidd. XaniiiiLj; them in the order of their discovery, we have the J^sme- ralda mines, the Humboldt, the IVavine, the ."^dver ]\loun- tains, the Iveese liiver. the Coilez, and San Antonio ; the; last-mentioned being 100 miles south of Austin, which is the chief town in the lu'cse Itiver locality. Lying south of Virginia, and extending from Gold Hill to Carson Ifiver, are districts containing a nudtitude of ledges, many of them with promising out-cioppinus. lUit when tlie undevelo[)ed wealth of Idaho and Utah territo- ries, with the Arizona side of the Colorado liiver, is considered, the mind is bewildered by the magnilicent prospects of California, through which the greater part of precious metals exti'acted in those regions will ])ass. Many millions of dollars are already invested in silver mining, and often with vast results. In Nevada* alone • Adiiiitteti into Uiiion as a .soparale utate .siiico tlii« chfqitir wjus writtoii. th lUClIHS OF iXEVADA. 27 )ii lliilish L) which il nor man's uctiou of )itiil alone i ' niiiiiiio". Shasta to 5 JH'ilKMplc glc clcaii- s are used f powder, the sixth a year ; t ardent i- CD Some ancy, are Xamiiio- lie Esme- er ]\Jouii. ^iiio ; the which is r-iold Hill litude of IgS. J)Ut h tciiilo- liiver, is i^U'nilieeiit 'r part of nil ])ass. in silver il* alone ills writtoii. there arc now close on 200 fpiai'tz mills in operation. These carry iVom 5 to 40 stam[)ers each. It is calculated that every stamper will crush a ton of I'ock in twx'nty-foui" hours. Siipposinu' only 100 mills to be constantly in motion — thus allowing lor the proj)ortion obliged to stop for cleaning and re])aii's — these will carry, on an average, 10 stamps each, making 1,000 in all, capable of crush- ing l,0O0 tons of ore daily. This ore will yield at the rate of .^50 per ton, giving a daily product oi ,^50,000 for the territory, or a total of ^15,000,(;(!':) -jr annum, estimating the number of workintr days at oOO. To illustrate the rapidity with Avhich communities grow up and business thrives under the stimulus given by this system of mining, it may be stated that five years ago the population of Washoe was less than 2,000, and is now between 00,000 and 70,000 ; and the value of property has multi})lied in a much greater ratio. The licesc Eiver district, Avhicli less than tw^o years ago contained 50 per- sons, now boasts nearly 10,000. Without delaying to instance other branches of the mining interest, for the prosecution of which British Columbia oilers, in its u;eolo<jfical formation, inducements cfpially with California, I would reiterate the hope that the facts now adduced relative to the metallic resources of California may be retxarded as allbrdinsj; the hii!;hest encouragement for the develo[)ment of British Columbia. The American state, including Xevada, has a population of not less than 000,000, and the day is not far distant when the population of the iiritish colony will also advance at a s])eed exceeding all present conce})tion. Leaving San Francisco by a line of steamers plying thence to Victoria two or three times a month, the pas- senger is usutilly diverted from his course by being carried 1 28 TIIK VOYACJE OUT. up the Columbia Eivcr as far as Portlaucl. Tliis is at preseut the largest city in the state of Oregon, its popula- tion numbering about 8,000. It is situated on the Willamette Eiver, some miles above the junction of that stream with the former, and 100 miles fnmi the ocean. The Columbia is said to be the finest river in the United States, except the Mississi})pi. There is, however, a sand ' bar ' at its mouth, which in foul wefither renders the navigation — particnlarly of sailing vessels — scmiewhat dangerous. The iirst port touched at on the voyage up is Astoria, the ancient depot of the American fur-hunting company ; and to those acquainted with the fascinating work of Washington Irving on the subject, the place is invested witli romantic interest. In 1843, innnigrants — encouraged by liberal grants of land offered them by the Federal Government — began to enter the state over the llocky j\h)untains, and since that period the population has been steadily increasing. Within the last few years rich gold mines have been discovered on the Salmon, John Day, and Boise Ivivers, and under the impulse comnnmicated by these ' diggings,' the population has risen to about 00,000. The soil is eminently produc- tive, and the climate genial. In the growth of fruit, Oregon excels most other parts of the coast. A resident in Vancouver Island writes : — ' I have seen Oregon pears, to demolish one of which required the united eilijrt of live guests ; the api)les being large in pro])ortion. These monsters are not usually wanting either in flavour or solidity.' This testimony I can confirm from personal observation. An episode occurred at the termination of the voyage that may not be uninteresting to the English reader, as it relates to a circumstance that, in 1850, threatened to in- volve Great Britain in war with the United States. I Gu pU of 'V\ VISIT TO SAN JUAN ISLAND. 20 riiis is nt s populti- 011 tlie )n of that le ocean. 10 United n\ a sand iders the oniewhat oyage up r-liuiiting iscinating 3 place is grants oC began to iince that Within iscoveivd inder the ;)pu]ati()n r produc- of fruit, resident m pears, ellijrt of These ivour or personal ; voyage ler, as it h1 to in- ates. I refer to the forcible occupation, by American troops, of the disputed Island of San Juan, situated in the Gulf of Georgia, a])out eighteen miles from Victoria. I liad the pleasure, on the trij) northward, to form the acquaintance of an officer in the United States navy, at that time hold- ing a responsible office under his Government on the coast. This gentleman, at whose service was placed a Govern- ment steamer, informed me that the vessel was awaiting Ids arrival at Port Townsend — an American town at the entrance to Puget Sound ; and challenged me to a run to San Juan, also promising to take me thence to Victoria. This kind offi^r was the more acceptable, as I should thus l)e able to arrive at Victoria before the passenger steamer, which at that time called at Olympia, at the head of the Sound, before touching at Vancouver Island. A visit to the enemy's camp at that moment I felt to be specially exciting, as intelligence of the American invasion had not reached England when I left. My luggage was soon put on board the steamer at the disposal of iny naval friend, and in an hour or two we cast anchor in the Bay of San Juan. It w^as about p.m. ; the evening was calm, and tlie scenery along the shore of the island exquisitely beau- til'ul. II. M.S. ' Satellite' was lying off with guns shotted, and pointed in the direction of the American camp, which was about a mile and a half from the beach. A boat came to us from the Pritisli man-of-war for letters, and I was introduced to the midshipman in charge as a 'clergy- man' from England. This term, in British parlance, having a tccluiical meaninjx — which it has not in America — and not being a})plied by my host in the Jiritish sense, the young officer was ])leased to draw gratuitcms conclusions, by which I seemed likely to be placed — innocently — in a ])osition as false as it was delicate. V>y some inex[)licable logic, the re[)ort took wing on board II.M. ship that the 30 Till: VOYA(iE OUT. Bishop of Columbia, wlio was expected by many to arrive tliat luontli, liad come to San Juan under the American Ihiiz! A boat was again ])ut oil', on the strength of this ridiculous mistake, to the 'Shubrick,' to take his lordship under the protection of the ' Union Jack.' In the mean- time, I had gone ashore with the American captain to visit the enemy's quarters ; and the invitation to the In.shop being presented duiing my al)sence, I was saved the trial of havinii" to disavow all claim to identity with his lord- shij). The story, on my return to tlie steamer, amused us greatly. The American force amounted to 500 men. Earth- works luid been thrown u[) and mounted with cannon. Judging from apjiearances, I am not sure that our nation has ever been so nearly precipitated into war with ' Jirother Jonatlian ' since LSI 2. I had the satislaction of being invited to the tents of many of the ollicei's, and uniforndy received from them a deuree of coiulesv of which I still cherish a <i;rateful I'cmembrance. They spoke freely of the international 'diiliculty' that had arisen, and confessed that while con- vinced of the justice ol" their cause, they occui)ied their present jiosition reluctantly. There was none of that thirst for war with Enixland manifested by them wliich characterises the less cultivated ])orti()n of American citizens. Beinuj introduced to the colonel conunaudinir the detachment* in tlie absence of (jleneral Harney, I was invited to his quartei's, where we had a pleasant hi- terview. The venerable colonel, a man al)out sixty-five, seemed more concerned if possible than his bi'other officers that harmony should be maintained between the two countries, and assured me that he was using all his inlhicMice on the side of peace, lie regarded i(, he said, WAR IMMINENT. o 1 to arrive VinL'ricaii li of this lordship le inoaii- iptaiii lo le A/.s7/^Y> tho trial Iiis lord- iiused us Earth- cannon, hat our var with ' tiMits oC )ni tlu'ni grateful •national 'iile con- ed tlieir of that n Avhic'h nierican nandiiiLT urney, I Lsant in- cty-flve, bi'othei- een tlie i all his he said. as the greatest calamity that could befal the cause of civilisation all over the world, that two nations, allied by connnunity of race, language, laws, and religion, should be ])lunged into hostilities. This was saying a great deal for a man whose fortune was war. Little did my excellent friend apprehend then the melancholy consequences of civil tunuilt with wliich his own country Avas so soon to be visited. I must express the surprise and gratification I felt at seeing one in the colonel's station having a repu- tation f(n" sober and unaflected piety. He told me that he was in the habit of repairing to the British ship of war to attend divine service every Sunday, and I learned that, by a pleasing coincidence, Ca})tain Trevust of the ' Satellite ' was a man of the same cliaracter. Here were two gen- tlemen worshipi)ing as Christians at the same altar, and knowing not at what hour they might receive commands to open ih'c on each other ! Indeed, the colonel said that if a single shot was fired from that vessel his troops should at (jnce respond. 'It is almost certain,' said he, 'that in that case your shi[)s would bloAV our handful of men here to atoms, l)ut r>()0,()00 men would instantly pour in from the states and take our ])laces.' The colonel asked me to share his apartments for the night, a favour, however, which I w\as obliii-ed to decline. On taking leave he invited me, with a catholicity of sentiment that did honour to his heart, to return as early as convenient and conduct divine service for the troops. Ik'ing favourably circumstanced to ascertain the merits of the misunderstandinir between the two Powers, I have no hesitation in saying that but for the timely arrival of Admiral J5aynes, waj' was inevitable. Governor Douglas had sustained personal loss from the position assumed by the United States Government in regard to the claims of the Hudson's Bay Comj)any and their em[)Ioyes, in 18 I G. 32 THE VOYAGE OUT. From that inoincnt lie imbibed inimical projudicc towards them that only wanted a suitable occasion for its mani- festation.* Now, His Excellency was the Queen's repre- sentative. The Americans brought by the Hood of immigration in '58 were objects of ill-disguised suspicion and dislike to him. In '59 they seized San Juan. Here, thought he, is an 0])portunity for retribution, in wliich I shall have the concurrence of the imperial Government. He ordered vessels of war to go witliout delay and drive out the aggi'essors. The senior captain in the squadron, attributing the haste of the Governor to inex[)erience in matters of grave administration, manoouvred in order to gain time till the admiral, who was absent, shoitld lu'rive. Fortunately, the wise counsels of the latter prevailed, and bloodshed was averted. But let not the reader sup- pose that danger is absolutely at an end ; it is simply postponed. Up to the present time the island is jointly occupied by the soldiers of both nations — the Americans in the north part of it, and the English in the south. Settlement of the question at issue has been delayed solely on account of the existing civil commotion in the states. But tliis dispute, were tliere ro other, remains as a spark tliat may at any time, after the Americans are released from internal troubles, be fanned into a destruc- tive ilame. I eschew tlie character of im alai'mist, but the result of considerable intercourse with men of all political parties in the Atlantic states lately, was to strengthen my persuasion that in a war with h'ngland the Federal Government would secure the enthusiastic appro- bation and support of the masses of the ])e()ple. A more concise statement respecting the cause of the (juai'rel about San Jwdu^/roni the Eni/lish point of rieir, could not be given, than is contained in the following quotation • Hid cuiiducl to them aubat-'queutly became more nmiable. Till': SAN JUAN DISI'UTt:. :J3 3 towards its injiiii- I's repro- flood of !?usj)icion 1. lloie, I wliich I 'crnnit'iit. iiid drive squadron, .'rieiK'o in order to Id arrive. )revailed, ader sup- is sini[)ly is jointly duericans he Koutli. . delayed on in the , remains •ieans are I destruc- •niist, but -Ml of all was t( ) ^land tlie ie appi'o- A more ■ (juarrel :oidd not "juotation bit". from an arliele entitled ' Iji'itish North America,' wliieh a|)peared in the 7\|)ril (18G1) number of the 'Edinburgh lii'view,' a ([uarterly, however, that has always displjiyed a, s[)irit of marked incredulity in regard to a l)elt of set- tlements and a line of railway ever being estabhshed between Canada and Jhitish Columbia. I have only to ]-i*mark on this view, that the nature of the I'oute across has of recent years been traversed by many persons known to me, whom I should much prefer as guides ill this matter to the reviewer. The geograj)hical blun(k'rs of the latter })lainly show that the informa- tion he imparts is not derived from the testimony of his senses. His words are : — (icner.'il Hanu'V, on being appointed ('omniauder of the Forces in the nei;4'lil)ouring United >States territory of Oregon, took forciljle possession of the Island of San Juan, one of the largest of the llaro group. Through extreme moderation on the pait t»f England hostilities with the United States were averti'd, and tlie whtiie matter in dispute was referred to the lUdre airuc;d»le (hseussion of the two (lovernments. In the midst of negotiations somowhat protracted, the present civil war broke out, and all corrr;|)on(h'nce on the subject was temporarily sus- )K'n(h-d. 'I'hc' United States troops still maintained possession of the island, and an eciual number of liritisli troops were sent to take up a similar position on it. Thus matters remain to the ])resent moment, and a few words will be sut^icient to explain the very consicU'rable issues which they involve. We have already mentioned that the large and undetined country which ])ass(>(l under the general name of Oregon had for many years be;'n used as a neutral territory by the i;reat fur companit's of both Kngland and the United States. After much protracted discussion and somewhat threatening complications, tiie nego- tiations of the two Governments at length resulted in tlie Oregon Treaty of 184(). l>y this treaty a boundary-line was to start IVom the western extremity o\' the great international lakes, \) 31 THE VOYAflK Ol'T. and, foll()\vin<; tlio 4!)th parallel of latitude, was to ho eon- tiimed to the shore of the Pacitie. All on the north of that Hne \\;\s henceforth to he the exeliisive properly of Kn^dand, all on the south was to remain in the p(»ssession ot the I'nited States — that |>art of the continent known as Russian America l>ei)^4, of course, wholly unatfi-cted hy the terms of a^'reenient. The British portion of the Pacific seahoard hecame, as we have already seen, the colony of IhMtish Columhia (»f the |»resent tla,y. The L'nited States portion was erected into the firo 'Territories' of Washint,'ton and Ori'ufon — that of \Vashin,L,'ton heinjj^ next the houndary-line. We mention this as the term Orejjjon n<»w dis- appears from our narrativi', that territory hein^ excluded from all coniu'xion with the present ([Uestioii l»y the intervening^' It-rritory of WasliinL;'ton. In fai't, it will he sulhcient to hear in mind that the ()i'i';^'on of former (hiys was an un(U*fined i-cLCion on tilt' coast to the west of the Hocky Mountains; the Orei^'on of the present day is a l'nited States territory some hundreds of miles to the south of the inti'rnational l)oundary-line. JlaviuL,' hrouL,dit this international Ixtundary-line to the shore of the Pacitic, the treaty of 184() ])rocee(ls to state that the line is to he further continued 'to the centre of the G ulf of Geor^da, and tlience S(»uthward ihrouf/h the vhanncl icJilch scjxiraies iJic. ronflnciif frijiii Vdin'oni'er Isl<<ii(/ to the Straits of .luan de; Fuca.' ^^'e have jtut these words in italics as containinij^ the whole ^ist of the matter. So little was known of the physical geography of th<»se regions, as late as in 184(), that it was assumed that there was an open roadstearl leading from the mainland t(j the ocean betwetMi Washington territory and Vancouver Island. We have already seen that there is a whole arcliipelago of islets, and further examination showt'd that there were Ihrca chamiels through which ships of burden could make their way up to Ih'itish Columhia. The boundary Connnissioners of 1<S.>H, sent out to determine hy astronomical observations the line of the Oregon Treaty, lost no time in rejxtrting these discoveries to their respective Governments. 'J'hc 'most sonflK'rn passai/e, l-iunvn (IS the liosario Cln(nn<l, lies itc.vt to the (:in(st of Washington. Its ado^jtion as the cuiilluuatlon of thcboaiulaiij- I % KNCiLISII VIEW OF Til 13 CASIi STATED. 35 i l>o von- h of tliiit ic L'liiti'd I Ana-ricji I we have 'Sent (lay. •rritories ' f :ie.\t tlic! I now (lis- idcd tVoni tiTvciiini; t tn hear n'd i'(\t,non ic Orei^on hundreds '. Having,' re of the line is to »ri,da, and rates tlte Juan de inin<^ the } physieal it it was from the tory ami [>elai;"o of ere tlirec. their way ^of ISoH, me o ist'overics jtass(i;/e, rmifif of nuuJ.ai ij- Inie mould pJaco, the ivhoh, arch'ipchigo of Islets In the possef^sion of Kin/lnnd, The Ilavo Chiumel, cldlmed in/ the United States, lies aloii;/ the coast of VaneoHh'er Island, and woidd brinf/ the avcJii iwUvjo within United States soil. These two channels are ahout twenty nules apart. That on the Washington side was the otdy one, up to a recent period, in use, and indeed had been used by all the Enjjjlish and American navij^ators ; that on the Vancouver side, thoutjfh marked on some of the Spanish charts, was (piite unknown to more modern traders until the mast(!rs of Hudson's hiiy Company's vessels availed themselves of its shorter route to Victoria. Of course, to two such vast landowners as Great Britain and the United States, tlu; rocks and pine-clad acres which lie betw(^en these two channels are intrinsically valueless. It is, however, their peculiar position wiiicli constitutes their importance. Let us consider for a moment how the claim of the United States (rovernment would affect these British possessions on the Pacific. British Columbia can only be approached through the Straits of .Juan de Fuca- the entrance to the Gulf of Georj^ia — lying between the territory of \Vashintj;ton and Vancouver Island. . . . ^^'hen we come op})osite the ish^t of San Juan, the passage dwindles to five miles. Small steamers, hy hugging the coast of Vancouver Island, can place five miles between themselves and San Juan ; but, large ocean-going vessels must pass within two miles of that islet, as also of the islets of Heiuy and Stewart. They would thus be exposed to the full range of modern artillery. A nearly similar objection might be urged by the linited States Government against the a(lopti(m of the Kosario Channel, if that passage were a key to any of the possessions of the Union. JUU the Gulf of Georr/ia sinipli/ leads to British Coluinbia, ami to iiu^vhere else. Fortunately, however, we are not restricted to these two channels. The Boundary Commissioners of 1858 ascertained the existence of a third channel, and navigable for steam vessels, to which the name of Douglas Channel has been given. It lies midway between these two entrance passages, leavintr the islet of San Juan on its left. Thus, since it is no longer possil)le to carry out the precise instructions of the Oregon Treaty- seeing that there are three channels, in place of the 1) -J, Till': V(»VA(iH OLT. iliaiiiiel— tlu' julojitioii of this iiiitldlc cliaiiiM'!, in pl.-icr df the im|K>s.siliI(; ' iiiiddlc of the cliaiiiK r nf tlic treaty, wmild scciii to plate tlic K-ast strain M|M>n its interpretation, uiid may cer- tainly be aeoniiiplislied wit limit the least injury to the I'i^dits (»t" any nation in existence. ]\\ the adoplion oi" this cluimiel as ii t'oiitiiniati(»n of thi' interniitional Ijonndary-line, it is not at all necessary that it should he wsnl by the ships of either nation. Kaeli nation would then ]tossesH a safe and commodious channel lyint,' beside its own territory. Tt must be conceded by all parties that the Island of San Juan can be lii'ld by (Jreat Mritain only lor defensive ))uri)oses. It must be j'oncetjed by all parties that it can lie lu'ld by tin- I'ldted States only for otVeUsive purposes. Indeed, it is simply a (piestion whether KiiLrlaiid shall be allowed to \ isit her own possessions and export her own ^'"Id without passing under the guns of a foreign power. Tln' iiiipi'cssioii of tins writer. It \vill be pcfccivcd, is, lliaL imiuraiK'C on llic i);iit ol' the au'ents of both (Jovcrii- iiicnts in ISIO, ivspectiii^' tlie oxisteiUH' of any islands behVL'en lliu mainland and \'anc'ou\\i', aeconnts ibr the terms of tilt' treaty as to the (lueslion i)\' rJnntiicI not beiiiLj: more definite. Thi-re ean be Jio doubt that his notion is correct, as far as the Ilnulish Commissioners were con- cerned. Hut not so in re«j"ard to the Americans. So moderate were the claims tii'Licd by thi' rei)resentatiyes of the Enulish Ooyeriiment, that the Amerii^an Commissioiu'rs Were astonished. The fact was that the former party knew little about the reirion Avhich was the subject of neiz'otia- tion, and cared less; and to this C(.)mbination of iLHioi'ance and a])athy may Ijc trace(l the misinteipretation of tlie treaty, from which the peace of the two nations is now imperilled. The latter l)arty had sudicient ac(|uaiiitance with it to possess yeiy distinct ideas of tlie coiu'se the boundary-line should take thrcniuh the j^ailf. Nor did they make any secret at the time of the construction they put on the now disputed clause of the treaty. The marvel Tin; .\.Mi:i:i('A.\ vikw s'iatki). '>/ •(' of tilt' lid scclii [n;iy «'fr- rij^'lits (»t' unci ;is .'I lot at iill r nation. i cliinnu'l ill partit'H tain only itics tliiit purposes, f allowed I without t'lvc'd, is, ; isl;iii(ls ; for ihe lot hoi 11,1^ notion is X'l'C coii- ans. tr^o tutivt'8 of lissioiu'is rty kiK'W n('L!"()tia- <_nioraii('t' ni of the s is now laintance )in'.SL' tlio Nor (lid tion tlicy It' niaivc'l I i<. tlial tlic KiiLilisli ConnnissioiuTs siioiild liavo been tniol)- s('i'\anl of tiiis im't. I'cloic mc is a speech delivered hy Mr. 'I'lionias II. Denton, IeL!;al adviser to tin; rresidciil ol" that day, 'on llie raliliention of tin? OreLCon treaty,' in the U. S. Senate, Secret Session, June IS, IS 10. It contains the following,' passaires : "That i'^land (N'ancoiiver) is not wanted hy the linited Slates for any i)urpose whatever. Above all, the south end of it is not wanted to connnand the Straits of Fnca. Tl so happe.iis that tlie-e straits are not hahle to he eonimanded, eilher in fact or in law. They are I'athei' too wide lor hatlei'ies to ci'cjss their shot, and wide enounh — like all other u'reat straits (»f the world — to (.'onstitute a pai't of the hinh seas, and to he incapable of appropriation by any nation. We want jiothiuLX of that strait but as a boundary, and that the treaty gives us. With that boundary t;onies all that we want in that quarter, namely, jill the waters oi" Puuet Sound, and the fei'tile Olynii)ic distri(?t which borders upon them. W'/h'i/ f/it' line reac/n's t/n' rhdiiih'l n'/tich st'jxf- ruh's I'diico/fi'i'r Islditd i'r()iu flic Coiitiiii'iit [which it docx irifhi)i ('i<//if. mili's of Fi'dsf'i' Jiii'i'i')^ it jivocccds to the uii'/d/i! of the chitinicl, AND TIIKNCK TL'UXIXO SOUTH THROU(iII TIM'] CiFA.WKii Dk IIaIiO (wronuiy written Arro on the maps) A> the Straits (f Fi/ca ; and then west, through the middU* oi' that strait, to the sea. This is a fair jjartition of tliose Avaters, and gives us everything that we want, namely, all the waters of Puget Sound, Hood's Canal, Admiralty Tnlel, Di'llinghani l)ay, IVu'ch r)ay% dn'/ irith ihnn the cluster (f isltnids* prohdf'lij 'f no rdlue, hctivceii J)c llaro Caned mul the Continent.' The senator's interjn'ctation of the treaty in regard to the particular channel through which tlie boundary-line ♦ It will Ik- .-^I'on by the map that this duster iiirhidos Siiii Jm.tii. ;;s TIIR VOYAdK OUT. yliould pnss. is oxprcssod witli a cloarru '^s lliat cannot bo iiiistaki'ii. No opposition was nia(l<' to his view ;it tlic tinu", as tar as I am aware. It was when tliis (»pp(ntunity of ol)ir('tin<' was <n\\'n tliat tlu' I'ritisli ( lovcrnniciit sln)nl(l liavc oniorci'd tlu'ir claims beyond the possibility of mis- construction. iii!\<)t ho V :it tlu' lortunily t should t»r mis- I -ft-:'!5» • *Ne»Wi!a'mi' -:--■ ■>«»S,&,,frrTSJWl>jK.^,. 1 38 sh m: til of h{ a If ^""""' ■'fc I w tA i 30 CILNTTEK 11. VANCOUVER TSI.AXD. TOnXiUArilY, CiEOLOGY, IMIVSICAL (i KOGKAIMIY AND GEXERAL IIISTOKY. t/^ The Eni^liind of the Pncifio — Straits of Fuca— The Coast Line— Gee )looical FDniiation — .Soako— Ksqiiinmlt — \'ic't(U-ia — Inlands in tlie (iulf of (Jeorgia — Saanich — Cowichan — Nanainio — Coniox — Northern l-iXtruniity of the Island — (Juatsino Nootka — Darclay Sound — Tioneor Discovorios in tho Pacific by tlic Spaniards — I'.alboa — Cabrillo— Ferrelo— Sir Francis Drake and his Adventures — Cavendisli— Story of Juan de Fuca and liis innig'ined 1 )i.scovery of a Nortli-East Passa<re— Jv\])edition under Heceta and (Quadra — Cook's Peconnoitre of the Coast — Kendrick — Perkeley — Meares — Vancouver's Mission and its Pesults — Grant of tho Island to the Hudson's Pay Company — Their Monopoly unfavourable to Colonisation. Vaxc'ouvkr Island is situated between tlie ])arnlle]s of 48° and 51° X. lat., and lu'tween 123° and 128° W. long., and is 5,008 miles due west from London. liy a remarkable coincidence, wliile for the most part in the latitude of Great Iji'itain, the colony sustains a iXeo<n'ai)hical relation to the Continent of North America in tlie Taciilc, similar to that which the parent country does to the Continent of Europe in the Atlantic. So that Vanc(mver Island has l)een not unaptly designated the England of the Great Western ocean; and it is no ex- aggeration to assert tluit it only requires a vigorous ap])li- cation of British ca[)ital, enterinise, and hibour in the development of its resoin-ces, to secure for it supremacy as a connnercial and manufactin'ing centre in the Western Hemisphere, such as England has acquiied in the Eastern. i !>c\ 7-( tt<^^ r<V. •5 ^> a Ic -•I ■A »^J ""•"•ir; -'Ki; ■<■, /I ":*H*V((!K,.,.9' /,,,, V'"ii»iii.iSi»""' '> ^'iN^'-y -y-''¥^ ^^^.y^, »«r::? .-s^'. Va rv^ I] iilT loll COI AND li. -itufM- .t4ni;„ /.( ill ■ l!flli,i.< II" If I ,111,11 Slill /I.,,,...., I I,,,,. 7" ""^^MMr^^^ i I'M \ lUC, \\n •■' ■■'■ *^-' T-?^K iO VANCOUVER ISLAND. The island is 240 miles in length, and from forty \o seventy in breadth, embracing a superficial area of 14,000 square miles, — less than one-fourth the size of Great Britain. Entering the Straits of Fuca, which are about eleven miles wide, on a blight summer day, tlie spectacle pre- sented to the eye is peculiarly inviting. On the south- efist, in the territory of Washington (United States), the Olympian range of mountains lift their rugged summits, capped with eternal snows, their dark precipitous sides appearing to descend abruptly into the sea. On the left is the rocky sliore of the island, beyond which stretches a mountain-chain in a north-westerly direction, covered with thick vegetation. The surface of the country is generally of an undulating character, and contains lakes, rivers, inlets, forests, and prairies in every variety. The masses of metamorpliic, trappean, and sandstone rocks — fringed with lofty pines — that first meet the gaze of the emigrant on his approach to his new home, present a rather frowning apjiearance, as compared with the softer aspect of the shores of England. But these sombre heights are portals, through which he is conducted to a land of promise. The most prominent elevation in the southern part of the island is Mount Arrowsmith, which rises to the height of 5,000 feet. East and west of the ridge which forms the backbone of the country are found pine, oak, willow, alder, cedar, and ma})le, together with various species of wild (lowers and fruits in profusion. The coast line in all directions is broken by numerous bays and harbours, many of which are capable of being turned to commercial advantage as population and enter- prise continue to be introduced. While the geological formation of the country indicates that its future prosperity will spring chiclly from mineral products, the agricultural statistics to be given in subse- GEOLOOICAL STRUCTURp: OF THE ISLAND. 41 m f«~)rty to I of 14,000 cat Britain, out eleven 'ctaclc prc- the south- States), tlic (1 f<unimits, )itous sides On the left stretches a 3vered with is generally ,kes, rivers, 1 sandstone 3et the gaze me, present the softer bre heights 3 a land of le southern rises to the idge which pine, oak, ith various numerous lie of being and enter- Ly indicates )m mineral \n in subse- quent pages, clearly prove that there exists a sufTicieiit extent of land adapted for cultivation and pasturage to justify the hope of yet larger tracts being discovered as the interior becomes better known. With the exception of the projecting edges of strata on the coast, and a few portions of the interior, the geological structure of the island has not been examined. Dr. Forbes, R. N., who has given some attention to the subject, records the results of his observations as follows : — An axis of metamorphic gneissose rock is fouuJ in the south- western extremity of the island, having resting tliereou clay slates and Silurian deposits, or, at all events, rocks of the paheozoic age. A black bituminous-looking slate is brought from that locality, as also from Queen Charlotte's Island, but no observer has yet seen it in situ, and no true or definite account of it can be obtained. A great deposit of clayslate has existed along th(^ whole south and west, but shattered and broken up by intruded trappean rocks, it has been almost entirely removed by the subsequent glacial action which grooved and furrowed the dense crystalline felspathic traps. Masses of lenticular or concretionary limestone are interspersed through this formation, and afford good lime for economic purposes. Along with the traps, other rocks of igneous origin have been erupted, and at the Kaco Rocks, a remarkably beautiful dark green hornblendic rock is found massive, studded with large and perfectly formed crystals of quartz. The sedimentary rocks are carboniferous sandstone and grit, limestones and shales of both the cretaceous and tertiary ages ; these in patches fringe the whole coast, from the extreme north round by the Straits of Fuca, to Nootka Sound, and enter largely into the formation of the numerous outlying Islands in the Gidf of Georgia. As shown by the associated fossils, the coalfield of Nanaimo is of cretaceous age. The whole deposit has undergone many changes of level — numerous and extensive faults existing. The sandstone with lijj^nitic beds at Burrard's Inlet and Bel- J 42 VANCOUVER ISLAND. lingliam Bay on the mainland, are, on the contrary, almost horizontal, in general loose and friable in their siructure, in some cases slightly metamorphosed by the intrusion and con- tact of heated rock, and containing, as fossil testimony of age, impressions of the leaves of a maple- like tree. Upheaval, subsidence and denudation had all done their work in the dense crystalline rocks of the axis of the island, and in the cretaceous beds of Nauaimo, long before the tertiary sand- stones and lignites were elevated by the slow upheaval of the post-glacial period. Associated with the coal-field, and scattered over the neigh- bouring islands, are numerous nodules of ' Septaria,' a calcare- ous clay charged with iron, of great value as an hydraulic cement. Copper pyrites and peroxide of iron are found in various localities, giving promise of mineral. The o;ciieral litlioloo-ical character of the island is as follows : Among the metainorphic and erupted rocks are gneiss (gneisso-granitic) killas, or clayslate permeated by quartz veins, quartz and hornblende rocks, compact bituminous slates, serpentine, highly-crystalline felspathic traps (bedded and jointed), semi-crystalline concretionary limestone. Amongst the sedimentary are sandstones and stratified limestone, crystallised by intruded igneous rocks, carboniferous sandstones, fine and coarse grits, conglome- rates and fossiliferous limestones, shale, &c., &c., associated ■svitli the seams of coal.* The most remarkable feature in the geology of the south- eastern end of the island is the scooping, grooving, and scratch- ing of rocks by ice action. The dense felspathic traps already spoken of are ploughed into furrows six to eight inches deep, and from six to eighteen inches wide. The sharp peaks of the erupted intruded rocks have been broken off, and the surface smoothed and polished as well as grooved and furrowed by the ice acting on a sinking land, giving to the numerous promon- * The result of Professor Temiaiit's analysi.s. t( •n\ to| dt PM to SOOKE AND ESQUIMA1.T. 4:'. it raw, almost siructure, in don and con- imony of age, ne their work Island, and in tertiary sand- heaval of the :er the neigh- ia,' a calcare- raulic cement, id in various island is as ed rocks are crmeated by p, compact le felspathic )ncretionary stones and leous rocks, conglonic- associatcd the south- and scratcli- raps already inches deep, )eaks of the the surface wed by the )us promon- tories and outlying islands which liere stud the coast, the appearance of rounded hossi-s, l)etween which the soil is found to he composed of sedimentary alluvial deposit containing the debris of tertiary and recent shelly beaches, which have, after a period of depression, been again elevated to form dry land, and to give the present aspect to the pliysical geography of Van- couver Island. As might be looked for in a country so marked by glacial phenomena, the whole surface is strewn with erratic boulders. Great masses of many tons weight are to be found of various igneous and crystalline as well as of sedimentary rocks, suffi- ciently hard to bear transportation and attrition. Granites and granitoid rocks of various descriptions are to be met mth, trappean rocks of every kind from whinstone through the whole series ; mica, schist with garnets, breccias, and con- glomerates. From these granitic boulders, and from the sand- stones of the outlying islands, valuable building material is obtained ; some of the gre}' granite equalling in beauty and closeness of crystalline texture the best granites of Aberdeen or Dartmoor.* For hydrogi'aphic details the reader is referred to the superior maps and sailing directions of Capt. II. Eichards, E. N., who was occupied for several years, under instruc- tions from the Admiralty, in surveying the coast, and won esteem by his urbanity, as well as admiration by his talent. In pursuing our course along the south-east coast of the island, we pass the agricultural settlements of Sooke and Metchosin, the former of which within the past few months has, by the discovery of coal and copper, but especially of gold, been changed from a scene of rural quiet into a hive of busy industiy. Soon we came in sight of the magnificent harbour of Esquimalt, distant eight and a half miles from Eace Eocks. It is two miles by three in extent, with an average depth from six to " Essa;/, p. 10, 4i VANCOUVER ISLAND. ciglit fntlioms of water, and aflordiiig, unquestionably, tlie most perfect slielter to ships of large tonnage that can be obtained between this locality and San Francisco — 750 miles farther south. In this capacious place of (uichorage a portion of II. M. Pacific squadron ulrc^ady rides, and eventually Esquimalt is certain to assume the i)osition of chief depot for the Iloyal Navy in that ocean. Here steamers from California land freight and jiassengers, and in future years the present village will expand into the dimensions of an important town, whose wharves will be gay with the shipping of all nations, and lined with mnnerous wholesale warehouses for the accommodation of merchandise from the East and the West, to be distri- buted to every country on the North American Coast of the Pacific. Three miles eastward of Esquimalt are the city and harbour of Victoria. The entrance to the harbour, which is narrow and intricate, may, without the least dangei", be approached by vessels drawing fourteen or fifteen feet of water under ordinary circumstances. At the top of spring tides vessels drawing seventeen feet can enter. A dredging machine has been procured, by means of which the depth will be increased ; and arrangements are about to be made for blasting some rocks at the mouth of the harbour, which constitute the principal obstruction to its safe navigation. The inlet which forms an extension of Victoria harbour is several miles long, and at one point is separated from Esquimalt harbour by a neck of land only COO yards in width, through which it is not improbable that when the growing necessities of commerce demand a canal may be cut, so that the two ports would in that event be conveniently connected. Victoria is more llomishing and populous than any other centre in this or the sister colony, and is palpably ca VICTOIIIA AND SAAMCII. [') ion ably, tlic that can be iicist'o — 750 )f auclionifre r ritk'S, and J position of 2C'an. Hero sengcTs*, and md into tlie rves will be lined with oniniodation to be distri- !an Coast of ;he city and rboiir, which east danger, fifteen feet the top of enter. )j means of ^enients are le mouth of obstruction ui extension [it one point of land only improbable e demand a uld in that than any is palpably iiiaiked (Hit by the unrivalled advantages of its geographi- cal position for the grand Uritish mercantile eniponum of the Pacific in coming years. Nothing could exceed the \ loveliness of its environs. Whether approached by land (»r by sea from Esquimalt, the gentle slope on which it stands exhibits with line efl'ect the buildings of all forms I and colours that continue to rise in quick succession. Large patches of excellent land exist in the vicir.'ty, and ill Avhatever direction the admirer of nature turns, his vision is charmed with scenery charmingly diversified. The site was fixed U])«>n by JMr. (now tSir. J.) Douglas, in I l84o, for an Indian trading post of the Hudson's liay Company.* i Advancinix northward, the Gulf of Geoi'gia is observed to teem with islands from the size of a ilower-])ot ui)wards, ])resenting a scene rivalling in beauty the celebrated 'lake of a thousand islands,' near the entrance of Lake Ontario. Xot the least prominent of the group is the Island of San Juan, to which reference has already been made. Many portions of this archipelago contain soil that would am[)ly reward the labour of cultivation. Various minerals, too, are found in thein that only await the application of ca])ital and industry to be profitably worked. The Saanich peninsula, about twenty miles long, and varying in breadth from three to eight miles, lies in a NXW. and SSE. direction. Some of the most fertile land in the island is to be found in the Saanich vallej's. It is not im])robable that a watering-})lace may, when recpiired for the convenience of the future mei'chant- l)rinces of Victoria, be established in Summer bay, which is situated on the east side of tlie peninsula, and is one of the choicest spots for such a purpose in that neighbourhood. * As early as L'^40 Sir (\. Simpson, on visitinjr it, wrote, * Vidnria inoiuises to become ca place of groat importance.' 40 VA.NX'OUVEU ISLAND. Fiirtlier north is the cxtonsivo agiicuhural district of Cowichaii, inchichii^ those subdivisions respectively known us Coniiaken, Quaniichan, Sonienos, and feha^vill<^^'ln. The importance of tliese locahties as fannin^i: settlements ^vill be referred to in the proper place. This region enjoys the advantage of possessing a large bay, and u river jiavigable a few miles from its month. From this point the island was crossed toNitinat on the West Coast by Mr. J. D. Pemberton, in 1857. The fol- lowing is an extract fn^n the report of that gentlemairs explorations, addressed to the governor : — After passing the Somenos plains and the large lake, several tracts of country eligible for settlement will he found, l)ut they wi'l require to be cleared. The situations alluded to will have all tlie advantages of a fertile soil, good water, game and fisli, variety of timber ; the ajjpearauce of the surrounding country being pretty and cheerful, often grand. The same remarks will apply to the land in many places bordering upon the large lake. In the valleys, Douglas pines twenty-tliree feet to twenty- eight feet in circumference are not uncommon. ... In rounding JNIount Gooeh, we pass througli a forest of Hemlock spruce, larger than any I had seen before, often eight or nine feet in diameter. South River contains a large body of water, has several falls, a considerable quantity of flat land on its banks, particularly on the right bank ; pine trees (P. Menzles) six feet to nine feet in diameter, of corresponding lieight, standing at regular intervals ; the under-growth of ferns, &c., being exceedingly thick. . . . Gold-bearing rocks are to be met with in tUe mountains ; sand- stone is frequently found in the beds of the rivers. In a despatch from Mr. Brown, commander of the exploring expedition that commenced operations last June, dated from Great Cowichan Lake, are the following remarks descriptive of the coimtry passed through : — We have described the geography and capabilities of a con- COWIfllAN VALLKV. 47 1 district of ivuly known fehawingan. .settlements Til is legion , and a river itinat on tlie . The fol- gentlcnian's lake, several ind, ])ut they 1 to will have aine and fish, ding country remarks will le large lake. 't to twenty- , In rounding ilock spruce, nine feet in several falls, [irticularly on nine feet in lar intervals ; thick. . . . Itaius ; sand- Ider of the fat ions last foUowinij^ lugh :— iti of a cou- ■ sidcrohle tract of country, including a very fair agricultural region; have discovered a vein of rt'n>!irkid)|y ricli coppt-r, of iiK'xhiiustilde (|U;intity, and have found gold in all the Wars of Cowichan river, in <|uantities from ^ of cent to 3 cents to the ])an, with every indication of still richer diggings existing, to be found with superior appliances iind more time. On Foley's Creek we found any amount of * prospects' to ])ay ,S!2 per day, and one which ought, to an experienced miner, to pay from ^.3 to J^'H per diem. We have discovered very rich ironstone in large quantities. Coal we have found many indications of. . . . The spars and lumber alone, with their capabilities of being floated to the sea, would prove a certain fortune to atiy man with capital enough to l»uy an axe and a grindstone. The borders of the lake abound with martens, and the stu'rounding country is richly stocked with l)ear, dei'r, and droves of elk. The width of Cowichan valley is estimated at about fifteen miles upon the sea coast, contracting rapidly in a westerly direction to about six miles. The prolific character of the soil in this district is ascribed to the disintegration and decomposition of calca- reous sandstones, by Avhicli it is bounded, and which are highly charged with carbonate of lime. Every species of wild plant grows luxuriantly in Cowi- chan. In the meadow-lands are found the following: White pea, Avild bean, wild timothy, wild sun-(lower (said to be excellent for fiittening poultry), wild oats, wild hly, wild angelica, wild lettuce, brown-leaved rush, ground nut, white clover reed meadow-grass, beat si)ear-grass, sweet grass, cowslip, crowsfoot, winter cress, partridge berry, mang( )ld. Among wild shrid)s arc : the cranberry, blueberjy, bilberry, whortleberry, red and white mull)erry, wild blackberry, chokeberry, black and red ras[)berry, wild strawberry, white raspbeny, prickly purple ras])berj-y. 48 VANCUUVEU ISLAND. prickly j^'oosc'lu'iry, swauip ^'ooschuny, diflV'ivnt spc'cli's of tHiiiJiiit, bear bcniL'.s, rod elder, lUDoscberry, snovvberry, yellow plum. lU'sidcs the stiii)le woods, otik mid pine, we liuve erab apple, liazel, willow, balsam, red or 8\vamp maple, trailing aibutus, eedar, <Sjc. Fern in the district reaches the extraordinary height of IVom to 8 feet. liesuming our journey northward from Cowichan Bay, we pass through the " Sansum Narrows,' where there is a company at work developing a vein of copi)er. Imme- diately opposite, at the distance of a mile and a half, is Ir^alt fc5i)ring Island, about twenty-foui- miles long, which has two good harbours on the eastern side, and is favoured with a considerable proj)ortion of land fit for cultivation. The mineral springs, from which the island derives its ntune, are shown by analysis to contain 4,91)4 grains of salt ])er imperial gallon. After passing about twenty miles of coast line from the north end of this island, we arrive at Nanaimo, which is distant seveiHy miles from Victoria. The harbour of this infant town ranks next to that of Victoria in importance, and affords acconnnodation for a large number of vessels. Jirinc springs exist here also, and the analysis of their waters gives a result of 3,44G grains of salt to the im[)ei'ial gallon. But it is to the extensive coal formation in the vicinity that Nanaimo has to look for its ultimate expansion. The coal mines here, even at their present early stage, give steady employment to several hundred men. Formerly the property of the old Hudson's Bay Company, they were recently transferred to an enterprising joint-stock associa- tion in England, distinguished by vigour immeasurably beyond their i)redecessors. Other companies have set to it SIK'CU'S of siiowbcny, • lijivo crab iplo, tniiliiiL; ry lit'iglit of widum Bay, re tliore is ii )cr. Tnimo- r1 a half, is lon<jf, wiiicli 1 is lavoiuvd cultivation, id derives its t)4 grains of ine from the no, which is hour of this importance, r of vessels, sis of their he im[)erial the vicinity Usioii. The stage, give Formerly ^, they were )ck associa- Imeasurably have set to toMoX — (Al'K SCOTT — (^UATSINO. Ill \vi»rk upon s^'iuhs contiguous to those of the Xanaiino concern, and the period cannot i>e far renitJVed wiien a large export trade in this article will he carried on between American territory and the colony. The countiy surrounding Xanaiino has been <livided into Mountain, Cedar, and Cranberry disliiets ; these designations referi'ing to the I'haracter of the prevailing ■wild [)roduce grown in I'aeh. The Coniox Valley lies northward, and is bi'ing rapidly j)opulated with settlers. This district and other agiicul- tural districts are describi'd at length in another chapter. rassin!4 Valdez Inlet, and thronuh Johnstone's ^ti'aits, the north-west extremity of the island is reached, where there is a trading-post of the Hudson's Hay Company, called Fort Rupert — one of their most insignificant estab- lishments of that description. Yet it is said to realise an annual profit ol' not less than (1,000/. liounding Caj)e Scott, we meet a singular group of islands, extending westerly for 10 miles. It ccMuprises three large, and a gi'eater number of small ones. The westernmost of the grou[) is 1,000 feet high, and jx-ciiliarly noti'hed at the t(_)p. It is believed that valuable cod-banks will be discovered at the uoith-west end of Vancouver Idand. Immediately S(.)Uth of this ])oint is (iuatsino, a useful inlet, running eastward across the island to Fort liu[)eit. This locality, too, abounds in coal and other minerals. Koskeemo Sound — the name by which the inlet is usually known — is about 10 miles south of the Cape. It is divided into three main arms, one taking a due easterly direction, another running to the south-east, and another to the west-north-west. These arms are res])ectively 10, 10, and 25 miles long, starting from the head of the main ^>ouiid A number of shallow rivers eni[)ty into them. !•: 50 VA.N'COUVKll ISLAND. At the cutraiice to tlio scniiul on tlie nortli side is (iuiitsiuo Bay, about one and a half mile iii extent, iVoni wliieh a narrow arm runs back ei^'ht miles, Avideninu; at the extremity into another small bay. At the head of the east arm, about 30 miles from tlie coast, a trail runs across to Fort liupert, a distance of 12 miles. The country fi'om Ca])e S(!()tt to Koskeemo is very ruixujed and mountainous, the smnmits of some of the hills being ca])i)ed with perpetual snow. Their sides also are entirely covered with heavy limber. The valleys along the banks of the rivers are generally densely wooded. The only level land in this tract of country is situated between the east arm and Fort liupert, through which the trail crcjsscs. From Koskeemo, half-way across, the land 'rolls' gently, the remaining half consisting of cedar swamps and beaver meadows. The ])rinci[)al timber in this iidet is hemlock, which is found in large (quantities. The quality of the wood greatly im|)roves as we ])roceed inland among the mountains, where there are cedars averaging from G to 8 feet in diameter. Cyi)ress grows round the lakes. The natives manufacture their wooden bowls out of small maple, which, with alder, is visible m extensive clumps. In addition to several }>romising scams of coal which crop out, tliuie have been discovered two or tlu'ee lodes of copper in that neighbourhood. One of these lodes, at a place called Ac-cla, has been slightly 'prospected,' and gives every indication of l)eing lich. (Quartz veins also are traceal)le, and superior limestt)ne has been Ibunvl in dilTerent ])arts of the ISound. Woody Point lies between (iuatsino and Kayoquot, a di>lricl extendiiiLi' to Noolka iSound. Noijlka is a trian- DAUC'LAY SOUND. 51 ]\ side is cut, iVom deiiiug at i from tlic .lice of 12 is very )f tlie liills s also are leys along 1 wooded, is situated mil Avhieli iicross, the g of cedar , which is )od greatly nouiitaiiis, 8 feet ill ivls out of extensive I'oal whicli liree lodes lodes, at [cted,' and Iveins also found in lyuquol, a lis -,[ trian- gular island that has obviously been detached in tlu; course of ages from Vancouver l)y the gradual coiiliuence of two inlets. The small harbour, Avhich was the scene of S[)anisli occupation, can still be identilled. Traces of a very mmierous native ])0))ulation remain along this part of the coast. IJut the Nootka tribe is now reduced to b')(). Clayoquijt Sound is diditnilt of access from banks of sand and shoals of gravel. The rocky formation, however, by which it is bounded evinces the presence of great mineral wealth. Lii route southward we come to Ijarclay Sound, which is well situated for an expcnt trade in lisli, lumbrr, auti minerals, as vessels loading there for foreign ports get out to sea without encountering those risks of delay which ships are liable to ialring in freight on Tuget Sound (»r Traser lliver. At the head of Barclay Sound a cleft in the mountain range forms Alberni Canal, 2-") miles in leiiu'th, into which a river discharges. At this [)oiiit the country is level and letivi ly timl )ere(l The nucleus of a thriving settlement has been Ibrnicd here, in which two or three hundred hands are employed in connection with a large saw-mill company, engagi'd in the ex[)ort of spars and sawn lumber. From ])ersonal knowledge of several of the localilies that have been describecl, 1 am disposed to regard the I language of Caj-tain Vancouver, written hk )Vv than seventy ycfj's ago, in reference to them, as sol)cr and just : — To (lesorihc the heauties of this rcirioii will on sotiic futu re occasion be a very ;j;-ra(el'nl task to tlie |)cn of the skilful |»!iiir- ijyrist. The serenity of the (iiiuate, llio iniiuiiui-alili' |ilcasiii^ landscapes, and the abundant fertility that tniassisted natuic puts foilh, recplire oidy to he eurielied hy rhe industry of man with villa''es, mansions, euttai;es, and (jlher buildin-js, (o ri-udi r 1 VANCOUVER ISLAM). it tliu most lovely country that can bo imagined; wliiK' the laltours of lilt! iiiliaiiitants would be amply rewarded in the bounties which nature seems ready to bestow on civilisation. TliL' discovery of u'okl on tlie opposite side of the gulf was the Li'nuid event tluit broiiiilit this und the sister colony under tlie notit.-e of the world ; conferred U[)on them ' a local habitation and a name,' communicated to them a progressive impulse, and started them on that career which is destined to conduct them to a condition of imexam[)led national splendour. But a ra])id sketch of their history previous to the advent of a gold-seeking immigration in '58 may not be ina])propi'iate. The S[)aniards were undoubtedly the ])ioneers of dis- covery on the racilic coast, and their ex])loi'ations were the result of endeavoiu's to reach the shores of India by a western route. Vague accounts, too, of the wealth of China and Jap;ui had come to the ears of thes-^ enterpris- ing adventurers, and inllamed theii' ambition to niono})olise the gold, silk, spices, and precious stones re[)orted to be })roduced by tliose countries. The racific ocean was discovered by Vasc(j Nunez de Lalboa in the year 1513. From that date the work of discovery northward was prosecuted at intervals, till in 15o2 an ex[)edition under the connnand of Grijalva and ])ecei'ra, sighted the peninsula of Lower Calilbrnia, of which Cortez took possession in the name of the King of ^^pain, in 1535. In June 1512 two vessels were despatched under Juan Cabrillo, from Xalisco in ^lexico. He succeeded in ascending as far north as lat. 37° 10', when he was driv( II bad; bv stress of weather to the Island of San lieiiiai'do, wlicie he died. Ferrelo, his [)ilot, assumetl direction of the ex[)edition, and j)ursuing ;i northward course, is believed by Iluniboklt and othei's to have di^- l)UAKi:s !:Xl'LOUATIONS. -)•) wliilr tlie icil ill tlio isntioii. f the gulf the sister ■red u[)()ii iiicated t(j 1 on tliat coiuliti(ju )id sketch Id-seeking .Ts of dis- Lions were :' India by wealth of enterpris- lontijiolise tc'd to be Xiniez de e work of als, till in ijalvii and ifornia, o Ki UIX o ider Juan tee ded 1 ni I ne was d of Si. n assumed ortliward liave dis- covered Cape Blanco, in hit. 4o°, to which Vancouver gave the name of Ca|)e ( )i'ford. ?pain claimed possession of the territory thus explored, in virtue of a papal bull conferring on Fei'dinand and Isabella ' all the new world to the westward of ji meri- dian line drawn a liundred leaii'ues west of the Azores.' The other portion was assigned by Alexander VL to roi'tuu'al. When England renounced allegiance to the holy see she ignored the validity of any title preferred by the Spaniards to the countries they had discovei'cd, based on "donation liy the ]jisho}) of lionic,' and asserted the riu'ht of J^ritish subjects to settle in any country not in the actual ()ccu])ation of anothei" C'hi'i.^tian nation, and to open trade with any people that showed a disposition to become their customers. That policy being ollicially declared by the queen, Sir Francis Drake obtained her sanction to an expe lition j)rojected by him to the Western Ocean. Sailing from riymouth at the ch^se of 1577, with five vessels, the largest of which was onl}' TOO tons burden, he brought them throu<j!;h the Stiiiits of ^Mauellan into tiie l\icilic m '■afety, when the frail squadi'on was assailed by a storm, and Drake lei't with but one small schooner and sixty men to execute his b(»ld vilans ncrniiKf flw (!(.<.<< <>(" Si P V that still held undi>turl)ed control over the western coast of America. His courage unshaken by misfortune, the her<.)i<'. privateer deviated not from his jm^jiosed course, and the amount of booty he I'calised from th(! cajiture of Spanish galleons is as surprising as his adven- tures ^vere romantic. Apprehensive that the Spaniards might intercept him should he attempt a homewaid [las- me tl ironii'h th SI traits of ^hiLrellan, he conceived the idea of searching for a north ('a>t passage from the Piicili*; ■1J 51 VAXCOUVER ISLAXl). to the Atliiiitic by tlio clinnnel which was tlicn known as the Straits of Anian, but wliich is now tlunmht to be murclv niulson's Strait, forming an entrance to Hudson's Bay from the Atlantic. The ])recise parallel of latitude reached by Drake in liis voyaLi'^ up the north-west coast has been warmly dis- puted, [)articularly in connection with the (juestion of the Ore;:i;on boundary. But the narrative written by the chaplain (jf the expedition, distinctly speciiics 'the hei^jht of Ibrtv-eiiiiit deiiTecs,' as haviuLi' been attained. We have no (hita on which to base an opinion as to whether he discovered New Caledonia, or entered the Straits of Fuca ; but there is no doubt that to him belonirs the dis- tinction of beinji" the first to l;iy claim to the country between 4'-)° and 48°. On the Ln'ound of oriuinal dis- covery. Sir Francis I^rake named that part of the coast New Albion. 'It seems,' says the narrative referred to, ' that the Spaniards hithei'to had never been in this part of the country, neither did they ever discover the land by many degrees to the south of this place.' When in 1587 Cavendish took and plundered a Spanish vessel trading between Manilla and Aca[)ulco, there w%as among the crew a Ce[)halonian pilot named Apostolos Valc- rianos, better known since as Jiuui de Fuca. This Greek was the hero of an exciting nan-ative pnblislied in 1G25 by ]\Iichael Lock, ' touching the strait of sea commonly called Fretium Anianum, in the South Sea, through the north- west passage of Meta Incognita.' jVlr. Lock, who was an Englishman, stated that when in Venice, in 159G, lie met this veteran nun'iner. Mr. Lock learned from him that on his return to ^Eexico after the capture of the Manilla galleon by Cavendish, he was sent l)y the vicei'oy with three vessels ' to discovi'r the Strait of Anian alonir the coast of the South Sea, and to I'oi'tify that strait to resist STORY OF JL'AN I)E FL'CA. 55 known as bu merely son's Bay Drake in irmly dis- lestion of en by the lie ]ieiii:lit lecl. We 1 whether Straits of ^s the (lis- e country ainal dis- tlie coast iferred to, [1 this part the land a Spanish thci"e was olos Valc- lis Greek i]G25by ily called jhe north- |io was an , he met him that Manilla [roy with lonu; the to resist the passap-e and proceeding of the Enulish nation, which were feared to pass through that strait into the South Sea.' This exploratory voyage having proved fruitless, l)e Fuca's alleged narrative goes on to say that — Slidrtly afterwards liaviiiLT b*.'on sent again in lo{)2 by tlio Viceruy <'f .M('xit'i» with a small caravel and pinniiee, armed witli mariners only, lie followeil tlu' coast of \nrih Ann rica nntil tliey cinne to the l;ititU(UM)t' 47^, a.ii(l there finding that the land trended east :ind iinrth-rast, with a bi'nad inh't nl' tlie sea between 47^ and tis"^, lie entered fh<';(into, and sailed therein more Hian twenty days, and fonnd that liind tnnding still sometimes north-W(.'st and nnrtli-ciist, and north, :ind ;dsa east and s'luth-eastwards, and very mneh hriKider sea than was at the said entrance, and that he jtasscd l)y divers islands in that sailing; and that at the entrance of this said strait there is on the iiortli-west coast thereof a great headland . . . Jb.' being entered thus far into the said strait, and being come into the North Sea already . . . he thought that he had well discharged his ofhoe . . . and returned lionieward. Such is the story of the first reputed navigation of the o-ulf separating Jb'itisli Columbia from Vancouver Island. ])e Fuca imagined himself as he entered (iueeii Char- lotte's Sound to have passed fiom the Facifu; into the Atlantic, and accordingly claimed to be regarded as discoverer of that north-west passage the search for which has only terminated in our day. Some of the statements in this narrative present an ap[)earance of verisimilitude, l^ut there are others tluit arc at variance with fact, and calcidated to awaken sus- picion as to whether the reported voyage was ever per- formed or the hero of it ever existed. The Spanish Govermnent, still impressed with the notion that a north-west passage existed, fitted out in 1774 an expedition, under command of Juan Perez, to .)•) VANCOL'VHli ISLAM). cxinniiK' tlicso western consts of tlu; Amerirnn continent. Though no ollicial report of this voyage of discovery avus l)i"e|)ured, satisfactory evidence lius l)een adduced of Perez being tlie first wliite man to set eyes on Queen Charlotte's Island, in lat. 54'. lie "was not snccessful, however, in ucconiplisliing the main object of his mission. On the return of this navigator two vessels were equipijcd by the Viceroy of Mexico, the one commanded by Jlruno Ileceta, and the otlier by Francesco de la IJodega y (iutidra. From lat. 48° 2G' tliey connnenced exmnining the shore sonthward for the su])posed Strait ol' Fuca, placed in the chaits of that day between 47° and 48° ; but some of the crew of one of the ships having been massacred by the natives, and others having fallen victims to scurvy, she returned toward Mexico. The vessel connnanded by De la Bodega continued her voyage northward, and unexpectedly made land in hit. 50°, soon after discovering a portion of King George III.'s Archi})elago. lie also took ])ossession of an extensive bay in hit. 50° 30', which, in honour of the viceroy, he named Port Bucardi More than twenty years before this latter expedition was sent forth, tlie British Parliament oflered a reward of 20,000/. to whoever should discover a practicable sea route between the two great oceans. Capt. Cook, who had already acquired a high reputation as a navigator and explorer, was commissioned in 1 7 7G to conduct an expedition for this purpose. He was instructed to [»ro- ceed to 45° N. lat., and sail thence along the coa&t to lat. G5°, searchinu; in his course for rivers or inlets that pointed toward Hudson's or Baffin's Bay. On March 7, 1778, Cook sighted the coast near 44°, and rimning northward a little beyond 48" he came (•^ ill sc 1 l)i:KKi:M:V — MF.Ar.E3 — VANCOUVI'K. .) « continent. u\'eiy was (luCL'd of on QiR'on successful, :t of his sols were >nimaiulc(l ico do hi )nimencc(l I Strait ol' n 47° and ps liaving ;'ing fallen continued e land in of Kinu; ?ession of ur of tlie pedition ward of ible sea jok, who avitrator iduct an to pro- coast to ets that ear 44°, le came ()ppo>ite to a '^niall promontory which ho named Cape Flatter}', in allusion to the iinj)rovc(l weather he ])eL;an to cx[)erience at that point. It has been mentiimed that the alleged statement of the old Gi'eek pilot placed the strait (said to comnumicate with the Atlantic), of which he asserted that he had been the discoverei", between thc^ 47th and 48th i)arallels. This ])art of the coast there- fore was examined by Cook with strictest care, and, iinding no indication of any chamiel such as was ivpre- scnted to be there, he unhesitatingly pronounced the stoiy t)f T)e Fuca to be iictitious. In aizain sailiiiii' northwards he passed the strait bearing that name unnoticed, an<l anchored near Xootka Sound, at a place which he called Friendly Cove, still sup[)osing he was on the shore of the continent. It is contended by some that Capt. Kendrick, an American, was the first white man who sailed throuirh the channel separating Vancouver Island from the main- land. This exploration is said to have been made in 1788. Capt- Berkeley, commander of an English mer- cluiiit vessel, who was in that region about the same time, detected that some kind of passage existed north of Cape Flattery ; but he did not explore it. Inunediately after, Ca[)t. Meares, wlio was engaged with Ca[)t. Douglas in ii voyage of discovery luider the auspices of a Bengal mer- cantile association, on reaching those straits which owe to him their present designation, took possession of the adjacent country in the name of his sovereign. lie was the first Enulishman to enter that channel. Ilaviuij: sailed up some liiirty leagues in a boat, Capt. Meares was com- pelled tc return, from attacks of the natives on the northeru shore. In 17^0 Capt. Vancouver, formerly a lieutenant serving under Capt. Cook, was despatched to meet a S[»anish oS VAXCOUVKR ISLAM). commi.ssion at Nootka Sound. The Spaiiisli Govci'iiinout ]iad some years previously seized a section of counliy lliat was claimed as tlie ri^irlitf'ul i)roperty of Great ])ritain, and placed certain restrictions upon IJritish com- merce in the racilic to which we declined to submit. The mission intrusted to the I'Jiulisli ollicer was to cHect a, formal adjustment of the dis[)ute, which menaced the peace of both powers. In addition to the dii)lomatic business with which he was charu'ed, Vancouver was instructed to rcjx'at the examination of the coast which had been made by Cook from the 35th to the GOth ])ai'allel, with the view of obtaininix further satisfaction on the subject of a maritinu' i)assaixe connectmsj: the TacMlic with the Atlantic. Findiiiu' when he reached Xootka that the Spanish connnissioner liad not arrived, he resolved uj)on surveying the Straits of Fuca and Admiralty Inlet. After tedious and didicult naviL!;ation he succeeded in fruidino; his vessels between the numerous islands in theGulnh of Georgia and throuu'h the strait named by him Johnstone's, coming at length into the Pacific 100 miles above No(^tka. None will ti'rudge to the gallant exiilorer the honour which so riuhte- ously attaches to his name in being associeited Avith a colony that bids fair to become, as years advance, one of tlie brightest jewels in the British crown. The island remained untraversed by white men till 1843, when a detachment of tlie Hudson's ]]ay Company's emj)loyes from Fort Vancouver in Oregon establislied an Indian trading-post on the shores of Victoria harbour, and another at the north end of the island. In March 1847, Sir J. II. Telly, chairman of the com- pany, expressed to Earl Grey, then H. M. Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, their willingness ' to undertake the irovernment and colonisation of all the (IRAXTKD TO IIUD>OX S HAY (OMrANY- .■)'.) lovenniiout of country of Great I'itisli c'om- to siihniit. as to ('fleet :!iuiced the 1 wliicli lie ri'])c'at llic l(j by Cook le view of n inarilimc :. Fiudiiiii' ininissioiicr Straits of 1(1 diniciilt (Is l)ct\veeii id tliroiiuli at k'Hii'tli None will 1 so riu'h te- ed Avitli a ice, one of men till Jonipany's )lislied an |rbour, and the com- riincipal f guess ' to if all llw fi'rrlh)ri('s Iti'lom/iih/ fi> f/n' Cnnrn in Xm'tli Aiiin'U'H, and receive a •jraut accordiuiilv.' His lordshi]) did not feel at liberty to entei'tain so for- midable a pro)H)sal, and ni'irotiations consequently were broken off. The desires of the coini)auy at li'iin'th became more reasonable, and a re(|uest was made by them to the (loverninent more moderate than the precedhig one. The company was williiin' to accept that part of tlie territory west of the Kocky Abtuiitaiiis, or crfn Ydncourcr Ishiixl nfmif, in tact, to (jh'e (wcrjj dssisttDicc in /Vs j)i>v'('i' fo jn'Oiitoh: ctilonisdtion. ... In every negotiation that may take place on tliis subject (Vancouver Island) I have only to observe that the Company e\i)i'ct no pecuniary advantage from colonising (he ti-rritorv in tiueslion. AH moneys received for land or minerals would be applied t(» purposes connected Avith tlie improvem«Mit of the country. — Letter /rum Sir J. 11. Pell;), March 4, 1848. This modest and disinterested communication was ac- companied by a ])rivate one of a very dillerent character, proposing that — The privileges possessed under the grant of Rupert's Laud, in which the coju])any could esta})lisli colonies, governments, courts of justice, Sic, be extended to the whole of the territories of North America, bounded by the 4!)th degree ])arallel to the south, the Pacific Ocean, and the Russian possessions to the west, and tlie Arctic Ocean. Earl Grey immediately determined to confine the grant to Vaiu:ouver Island, and a deed of grant was accordingly drafted, of date July 31, 1848. This document, after reciting the provisions of the va- rious Acts passed by Parhament, and treaties that had been negotiated between the Imperial Government and the com[)any, proceeds: — And, whereas it would conduce greatly to the maintenance of ])eace, justice, and good order, and the advancement of colonisa- \ lil) VAXlOL'VKU ISI.A.M). linn, and the pnimolidn .'itul ('ncournnfc^mpiif of trado nnd com- nicrci- ill, and also to tlic protci-tioii and wt'lfarc of tin' native Indians rcsidini,' within tliat portion oi' onr tciTitorics in North America caih-d X'aiK-oiivcr Isljuid, it' snch islfuid wcro t'oh)nis(d liy scfth'is from the iWitish dominions; and, if the pnjjxTly in tho land of snch island wi-rc vested, for the purpose of sneli colonisation, in the said fj^overnur and Company <»f Adventurers; . . . hut, nevertheless, upon condition that the said governor and conijiany should form on the said island a settlement or Settlements as hereinafter mentioned, for the purpose of colonis- ini,' the said island ; and, also, should defray the entire expense of any civil and military estahlishments which nia,y bt; re<|iiired lor the protection and L,'overnment of such stttleiiieiits, Tlu! dot'd, then. liaviiiL' duly coiistitntcd tlie romijuuy uhsolutc lofds and pi'(ii)i'ii.'t()rs of tlie soil, 'in fi't'c and (.'oiiiinon s()cn<^ai, al the yeaily rent of .seven shillings,' eontinues : — Provided always, and we declare that this present grant is made to the intent that the said j;overnor and company shall ostaMish iqion the said island a settlement or settlements of resident colonists, enii^^rants from our I'liited Kino-dom of (ireat Ihitain and Ireland, or from other our dominions, and shall dis- pose of the land there as may he necessary for tlie purposes of colonisation; and, to the intent that the said company shall, with a view t(» the aforesaid purposes, dispose of all lands hereby granted to them at a reasonable ])rice, exci'pt so much as may be recpiired for j)ublic jiurposes ; and that all moneys whicli shall be received by the said company for the purchase of such land, and also from all payments which may be made to tlann, for or in respect of the coal or other minerals to be obtained in the said island, or the right of searching for or getting the same, shall (after a deduction of such sums, by way of jirofit, as shall not exceed a deduction of 10 per cent, from the gross amount received liy the said company for the sale of such land, and in respect (jf such coal or other miiuTals as aforesaid) be applietl towards the colonisation and improvement of the island. . . . And we further declare that this present grant is made upon i'( ti sic 1 [)[-:!:i) OK (iKA.vi, 1*1 lie mid cniii- f tlic native •ie.s iit N'urtli 'IT C(»l(»lliscil properly in )()He of SI id I idvelitili'C'is ; lid eiiveriior .'ttlcineiil or io of colonis- lire expense be rL'(|iiired I its. L' rompniiy II free iiml 1 filiilliiiu'.^,' L'lit <^rant is [in]»;niy shall tleineiits of 11 of (ireaf 1 sliall dis- jurposcs f>f )any sliall, lids hereby lull as may whicli shall such land, om, for or led ill the the same, it, as shall )ss amount nd, and in be applied d. . . . nade upon the condition ijnt if the said governor and company shall not, wi'hin the term of live years from (he date of tliese preseiiis, have established upon the said island a setth'nient of resident t'olonists, emiifr;ii., from the rnifcd Kin^'tlom of (irejit llritain and Ireland, or from other our dominions ; and it shall at any time after the expiration of such term of five years be certilied to us, our liv irs or successors, by any |»ersoii who sliall lie ap- pointed l»y us, our heirs or successors, t(» emjuire into the eomli- liou of >ucli island, that such settlement has not been established aerordiu;,' to the condition of this our tyrant, or that the pi'ovi- sious hereiutofore mentioned respectim^ the disposal of the land, and tile price of lands and minerals, have not bieii respei'tively fiiltiiled, it shall be lawful for us, our heirs and successors, to revoke this present ;;rant, and to enter upon and resume the said island, . . . without jirejudice, iieveitlu'less, to such dispo- sitions as may have been made in the meantime by the said L;()veriior anil company of any land in (he said islainl, for (hi; actual purposes of colonisation and settlement. And we hereby declare that this present <,'rant is and shall bi' deemed and taken to be made mion this further condition, that we, our heirs and successors, shall have, and we accordinnly re- serve unto us and them full p»»wer, at the expiration of the said governor and company's grant or licence, of or for the exclusive^ privilege of trading with the Indians, to repurchase and take of and from the said governor and company the said ^'ancouver Island and premises hereby granted, in consideration of payment, being made by us, our heirs and successors, to the said g(jvernor and company, of the sum or sums of money tlieretof<jre laid out. and expended by them in and u[)on the said island ami premises, and of the value of their estalilishments, property, and effects then being thereon. Conjointly with the grant of the island, a deed of settle- ment was exeeiited, ' confeiTin;:)' on inmiiorants eeitaiii jiowers of local self-government.' There was also a com- mission issued to the governor ajipointed by the Crown on the presentation of the company, with directions to summon an assembly elected by the general votes of the inhabit- ^-^^ ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) fe A i/j 1.0 ^KS I I.I I— IIIIM i ^ IIIIIM 1.8 1.25 1 i.4 III '-^ "^ 6 " - ► *^ <? /i ^;. "a '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 .sr /4^ \ ;\ \ ^ I 02 VANCOUVER ISLAND. ants, to exercise in conjunction with himself and a council nominated in the usual manner, the powers of legislation. It is not generally beheved that the company intended to yield literal compliance with the terms of the covenant agreed to between them and the Government. They could have no interest in promoting the colonisation of the island hidiscriminately even by British subjects. A branch company was formed, composed for the most part of the Hudson's Bay Company's shareholders, and managed virtually for the advantage of that company. This asso- ciation — never legally incorporated — took up large tracts of land in the vicinity of Victoria, and hired workpco})le in Great Britain to cidtivate it. The promptitude of the company in this matter removed all distrust from the minds of general observers in England as to their good faith in fulfilling the contract into which they had entered with the Government. Eeally, however, theii' importa- tion of labourers and farm bailiffs was designed to keep the resources of the colony exclusively in their own hands, Avhile practising a mild form of imposition upon the Im- perial authorities. No settler was encouraged to remain in the island in the first instance, unless introduced under the auspices of the company. Instances occurred of per- sons from California desiring to take up their abode in the country in 1850-51. But the system of petty despotism and caprice exercised by the heads of the company, toge- ther with the attempted monopoly of the available land convenient to the town, filled those intending settlers with disgust, and repelled them from the colony. The first governor sent by the Crown, feeling his impotency, though invested with Her Majesty's commission, to gra})ple with the overwhelming absolutism then prevailing, was compelled to throw u[) the reins of olfice. The Kight lion. Mr. Labouchere (now Lord Taunton), IXFLUEXCE OF THI-: COMl'ANV (;:j td a council legi.slatioii. ly intended le covenant They could ion of the . A branch part of the 1 mana<i;ed This asso- laroe tracts workpeople tude of the t from the their good lad entered ir importa- led to keep own hands, on the Im- to remain Liced under red of per- jode in the despotism any, toge- ilable land ttlers with The first mpotency, to grapple tiling, was Taunton), at tlint time Iler Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, obtauied the consent of the Government of the day to an {U'rangement which helped to keep the colony sealed to the world, and from the effects of which it will l)e long before it recovers. It is not averred that the riii'ht hon. gentleman intentionally and from interested motives coimived at tlie doings of the com})any in the scheme to which he was a party ; l)ut the issue of it ^vas the advantage of the company at the cost of the progress of the settlement being retarded. I refer to tlie uniting of the two oifices of crown agent and factor of the com- ])any in the same person. Is it surprising that a gentle- man Avliose associations from earliest years luid been interwoven witli the business of the company, and whose income was still mainly derived from the profits of the company, should not give the duties he owed to his sovereign precedence over the services due to his old employers ? To confirm the illusion in the eyes of the British public — whose vague conceptions of the nature of the country rendered them peculiarly hable to be misled on the sub- ject — the semblance of free representative government was adopted, electoral qualification being fixed at 300/. in capital, or twenty acres of landed property. But how absiu'd a parody of political institutions this was will be evident when it is remembered that the inhabitants were almost entirely engaged in the service of the company, and their situations dependent upon their voting according to the dictation of their masters. The eflectual manner in which the com[)any maintained exclusive traffic in the island to the ])rejudice of its general colonisation may be inferred from the fact that the entire po[)ulation, five years after the grant had ])een made, did not exceed -150. 01 CIIArTEll III. THE DISCOVKRY OF GOLD IN BRITISH COLUMBIA IN 1858, AND ITS INFLUENCE ON THE GROWTH OF VICTORIA. IiUf=h of Immifn'ation — Suddon riso in the Valuo of Land — Iiival Cities tittenipted hy tlio Americans — Unequalled Superiority of Victoria and Esquimau Harbours — I'eturn of faint-liearted Speculators to California, and tlieir Malt;dictions — Strujrirles and Triumpli.s of Miners on the Fraser — Hardships on th(.' New Houte — Temporary Gloom of Victoria — Yield of Gold for the lirst four Months — State of the City in If^oi) — News from (Juesnelle — Thini.fs looking up — The Letters of the Timeii' Correspondent and the Imniipration of 18G2 — Disappointment and l*ri- vntion of the Inexperienced — Description of Victoria as it now is — I5(.'acon Hill — Goveniment House — Streets— I'ub lie Buildings and Associations — Newspaper Press — Religious Bodies — Colleges and Schools — Manu- factories — Joint-Stock Companies — The Municipal Council — Banks — Price of Town Lots — List of Trades and Professions. The EXISTENCE of the precious metal in Queen Charlotte's Island and British Columbia had been known to the company for several years before this period. The Indians had been accustomed to offer quantities of this product at the fur-trading establishments, in exchange for articles of food and clothing. In 1857 a party of Canadians, impelled by the vague rumours alloat on the subject, started from Fort Colville, near the American boundary, and 'prospecting' on the banks of the Thompson and Bonaparte rivers, on their way to the Fraser, Avere sufficiently encouraged to prose- cute the occupation of digging. Intelligence of their success soon spread through Washington territory and Cahfornia. Between March and June, in 1858, ocean I RUSH FROM CALIFORNIA. ()0 L IN 1858, CTORIA. — Rivnl Cities Victoria nnd ! to California, rinors on the of Victoria — !ity in iSo*.) — of the TiDU's' mont and I'ri- ow is — JJcacon Associations — liools — Mann- cil — Banks — Charlotte's wn to the od. The ies of this 3hani]fe for the vague Colville, ' on the on their to prose- of tlieir itory and ^8, ocean steamers from Cahfornia, crowded witli gold-seekciv, arrived every two or three days at Victoria. This place, l)reviously a quiet hamlet, containing two or three hinidred inhabitants, whose shipping liad been chiefly confmed to Indian canoes and the annual visit of the company's trading ship from England, was suddenly converted into a scene of bustle and excitement. In the brief si)ace of four months 20,000 souls poured into the harbour. 'J'lie easy-going primitive settlers were natin-ally confounded by this inundation of adventurers. Individuals of every trade and profession in San Fran- cisco and several parts of Oregon, lu'ged by the insatial)le anri sacra fames, threw up their employments, in many cases sold their property at an immense sacrifice, and repaired to the new Dorado. This motley thi'ong in- cluded, too, gamblers, ' loafers,' thieves, and ruffians, Avith not a few of a higher morfd grade. The rich came to speculate, and tlie poor in the hope of quickly becoming I'ich. Every sort of property in California fell to a degree that threatened the ruin of the State, The limited stock of provisions in Victoria was speedily exhausted. Flour, which on the American side sold at 21. 8.?. ])er barrel, fetched in Vancouver Island G/. joer barrel. Twice tlie bakers were short of bread, which had to be replaced with ship biscuit and soda crackers. Innumerable tents covered the ground in and around Victoria far as the eye could reach. The sound of hammer and axe was heard in every direction. Shops, stores, and ' shanties,' to the number of 225, arose in six weeks. Speculation in town lots attained a pitch of unparalleled extravagance. The land-office was besieged, often before four o'clock in the morning, by the multitude eager to buy town property. The purchaser, on depositing tlie price, had his name put on a list, and his application was at- F 6G RIVAL CITIES. tended to in the order of priority, no one being allowed to pureliase more tlian six lots. The demand so increased, however, that sales were obliged to be suspended in order to allow the surveyor time to measure the appointed divisions of land beforehand. Thc/ir.st cost of ' lots ' rose from 10/. to 20/. The original extent of a town lot was GO feet by 120 feet. Land bought from the company at from 10/. to 15/. was resold within a month at sums varvin<j irom 300/. to GOO/. One case is recorded of a half-lot, bought for 5/., being sold within a few we{!ks for GOO/. Parcels of ground centrally situated realised fabu- lous prices. Sometimes portions measuring from 20 to 30 feet in breadth, by GO feet in lengtli, rented at from 50/. to 100/. per month. One gentleman states that he Avas asked 20/. per front foot for a lot in a side street — that is, for a clay bank, 100 feet by 70 feet, 2,000/. was demanded. Sawn timber, for building piu'poses, could not be had under 20/. per 1,000 feet. The bulk of the heterogeneous immin;ration consistinjr o o n of American citizens, it was not wonderful that thev shoidd attempt to found commercial depots for the mining locality in their own territory. Consequently, they congregated in large numbers at Port Townsend, near the entrance to Pau;et Sound and at Whatcom in succession. Streets were laid out, houses built, and lots sold in those places. But inconveniences of various kinds hindered their success. Semiahmo, near the mouth of Fraser Piver, was next tried as the site of a port ; but this rival city never had existence except on paper. These foreign inventors of cities obsti- nately refused to acknowledge the superior natural ad- vantages of Victoria compared with the experimental ports they had projected. It is not speculators in new towns, however, but merchants and shippers that deter- mine the points at which trade shall centre ; and it is only i VICTORIA AND ESC^UIMALT HARBOURS. 07 nil allowed ) increused, 2d in order appointed ' lots ' rose wn lot was company at til at sums :ordcd of a / weciks for alised fabu- Tom 20 to ted at from tes that he de street — 2,000/. was )oses, could n consistiiif;'' thev should ing locality ionixrecfatcd leutrance to 11. Streets |iose places, leir success, next tried Id existence dties obsti- hatural ad- iperimental brs in new :hat deter- [1 it is only that harbour which combines the greatest facilities for conunerce, with the fewest risks to vessels, whicli is j)iitro- nised by tliem. Victoria, judged by tliese tests, was found most eligible of all the competing places of anchoragii in the neiujhbourhood. Besides a roadstead havinci: tfood holdino; "roiuid, the port of Victoria consists of an outer and an inner haibour. Tliese united present a frontage of three quarters of a mile long, 'witli a depth of water, at low tide, beginning witli 8 feet at the south end near James's Bay, and increasing rapidly to more than 25 feet at the north end.'* Esquimau, which has been described in the preceding chaptei*, having the lai'ger harbour, it was attempted by some who boui>'ht land surrounding it in '58 to make tliat place the site of the commercial capital. But the renwirks of Mr. Douglas respecting it in 18J:2 have been endor^e(l by capitalists since : — Esquinialt is one of the best linrhours on the coast, hoino- perfectly safe and of easy access; but in other respects it pos- sesses no attraction. Its appearance is strikingly unprepossessini;-, the outline of the country exhibiting a confused assend)I;vge of rock and wood. . . . The view is closed by a range of hnv mountains, which traverse the island at a distance of about 12 miles. The shores of the harbour are rugged and precipitous, and I do not see one level spot clear of trees of sufHcient cxteul to build a large fort upon. . . . Another serious objection to the place is the scarcity of fresh water. The inference from this view is that Esrpiimalt is admirably suited for a naval station, and for the accom- modation of vessels of large tonnage, but does not [)resent conditions favoiu-able for the erection of a great city. Nor is it desirable that the naval depot and the com- mercial centre should be included in the same city. Most * Waddington. f2 08 OFF TO ERASER RIVER. of the lieavy freight may eventually be discharged and stored there, but the counting-liouses of merchants will remain in Victoria, and the business be transacted in the latter place. To return to the narrative. While the majority — com- prising Jews, French cooks, brokers, and hangers-on at auctions — stayed in Victoria for the purpose of ingloriously improving their fortunes, by watching the rise and fall of the real-estate market, several thousands, imdismayed by dangers and hardships incident to crossing the gulf and ascending the river, ])roceeded to the source of the gold. When steamers or sailing-vessels could not be had, canoes were equipped by miners to convey them to British Columbia ; but this frail means of transit, unequal to the risks of the passage, sometimes occasioned loss of life. A monthly licence had to be taken out by all bound for the mines, and this gave them the right to take whatever provisions were required for individual use. At the out- set steamers on the river allowed miners 200 lbs. and subsequently 100 lbs, free of charge ; but they preferred in general to join in the purchase of canoes for sailing up the river as well as across the gulf. The country drained by the Fraser resembles moun- tainous European countries in the same latitude, where streams begin to swell in June and do not reach their lowest ebb till winter. Those, therefore, who happened to enter the mining region in March or April, when the water was very low, succeeded in extracting large quan- tities of gold from the 'bars' or 'benches' not yet covered with water. The mass of immigrants not having arrived till a month or two later, found the auriferous parts under water. Ignorant of the periodic increase and fall of the stream to which I have adverted, their patience was soon exhausted waiting for the uncovering of the I KEACTION IN VICTOKIA. Iiargecl and cliants will ctcd in the )rity — com- ngers-on at ingloriously and fall of isniayc'd by le gulf and 3f the gold, had, canoes . to British 3qual to the ; of life. 11 bound for ic whatever At the out- 00 lbs. and ;y preferred r sailing up bles moun- ude, where reach their happened |l, when the arge quan- not yet I not having auriferous icrease and Av patience fint? of the banks. Not a few, crestfallen and disappointed, returned to Victoria. A gloomy impression began to prevail among the less venturesome s))irits that tarried in this scene of morbid speculation. Gold not coming down fast enough to satisfy their wishes, thousands of them lost heart and went back to San Francisco, heaping execrations upon the countiy and everything else that was English ; and jilacing the reported existence of gold in the same category with the South Sea bubble. The rumour took wing that the river never did fall ; and as placer-mining could only be carried on on rivers, 'the state of the river became the barometei* of public hopes, and the pivot on which everybody's expectations turned.' This preposterous idea spread, was readily caught up by the ])ress of California, and proved the lirst check to immigration. Another impediment was the commercial restrictions imposed by the Hudson's Hay Company in virtue of the term of their charter for exclu- sive trade in the interior not having yet expired. A few hundred indomitable men, calmly reviewing the unfavourable season in which they had connnenced mining operations, and the difficulties unavoidable to locomotion in a country previously untrodden for the most })art by white men, resolved to push their way forward, animated by the assurance that they must sooner or later meet the object of their search and labour. Some settled on t' bars between Hope and Yale, at the head of navigation , others advanced still higher, running hair-breadth escapes, balancing themselves in passing the briidc of some danger- ous ledge or gaping precipice encumbered with provisions packed on their backs. A new route was proposed via Douglas, at the head of Harrison Lake and Lilloet, that should avoid the dangers and obstructions of the river trial. But this did not at 70 IIAKD.SIIII'S ON TlIK XHW KOL'TK. first iiu'iid mntU'i's ; for tlie intended road lay tlirougli a rii<ig('d and dcnscly-woodt'd (.'onntiy, an<! inucli time and money required to he consumed before it could be ren- dered practicable. Before the line for the Lilloct route Avas generally known, j^arties of intrejjid miners, anxious to be the first to reaj) its benefits, tried to force their way through all the difliculties Oj)posed to them. The misery and I'atigue endured by them was indescribable. They crept through underwood and thicket tor many miles, sometimes on hands and knees, with a bag of Hour on the back of each ; alternately under and over fallen, trees, scrambling uj) ])recipices, or sliding down ov^r uiasses of sharp projecting rock, or wading up to the waist through l)ogs and swam[)S. Eveiy day added to their exhaustion ; and, worn out with jaivation and sufferings, one knot of adventurers after another became smaller and smaller, some lagging beliind to rest, or turning back in despair. The only thought seemed to be to reach the river ere their provisions should give out. One large party was ]-educed to three, and when they came to an Indian camp wliei-e salmon was to be had, one of these hardy fellows made u]) his mind to return. So castiiiij a farewell look from the mountain side on the valley beneath him, the valley which had been the goal of all his hopes, and to reach which lie had endured so much hardship, he wislied his companions good-hye. . . . Nor did the two others fare much better. ]\Iy friend, during a fortnight's stay among the Indians, lived on salmon when he could get it, and often on wild fruit. Once he got a meal of horseflesh, hut never tasted a spoonful of flour or even salt. On his journey back he had to live for three days solely on blackberries, and returned with his clothing tattered and torn like a scarecrow.* Nor was this case an uncommon one. Gold there was * VVaddingtou's Fraser River Vindicated, p. 23. Tiir: TiDi: iiiai:i)L\(». 71 ■f tliroiigli a ;h time and Lild Ijc ren- illoet ix)iite LTs, anxious c their way The misery ible. They nany miles, Hour on tlic alien trees, r masses of list tlu'ougli Lixhaustion ; lUQ knot of nd smaller, in despair, e river ore party was idian camp dy fellows side on the goal of all ch hardship, two others stay among nd often on lever tasted c he had to led with his there was in ahundaiice, I)iit want of access ])revented tlie couiitiy iVom being ' j)rosj)ected ;' id I'ecklcss men, without stop])ing to take this into account, condemned the mines and everything connected with them without distinction. If the cimunerce of tlie interior had l)een tlirown open, and private enterprise allowed to compete with the natural dithcul- ties of tlie country, these would luive soon ])et'n overconu'. Forests would have been opened, provisory bridges thrown over precipices, hollows levelled, and the rush of population following behind, the country would liave been rapidly settled, and the trader have brouglit his proNisions to the miner's door. AlTaii's in Victoiia, meanwhile, grew yet more dismal. Tlie 'rowdy' element that had assembled in the city, find- ing no legitimate occupation to emi^loy their idle hands, were under strong tem])tation to create such disturbances as they luid been accustomed to get up in California. Losing, for the moment, that wholesome dread of ]>j-itish rule which that class usually feel, a i>arty of them rescued a prisoner fi'om the hands of the police, and actually pro- posed to hoist the American Hag over the old Hudson's Bay Compfmy's fort. J3ut the news that a gunboat was on her way from Esquimalt to quell the riot, soon calmed alarm and restored })eace. Large sums of money, sent up from San Francisco for investment, were slupped back again ; and whole cargoes of goods, ordered during the heat of the exciteuient, were thrown upon the hands of merchants. Jobbers had nothing to do but smoke their cigars or play at whist. Some ac- cused tlie company ; others complained of the Govern- ment ; others sneered at ' English fogyism ;' and others deplored the want of ' American enterprise.' ' Croaking ' was the order of the day. The Governor, seeini; the tide of immigration recedino;, managed to control his prejudice against the 'foreigners' from a neighbouring state, so far as to moderate the severe J 72 BIUOHT rUOSlMXTS. rcstiictious \\v liad put upon floods iniportod to IJritisli ( nluiubiii, and adopted nunv uctivc measures in openinj^f trails to the mines. But his tardy decision came too hite to he attended with inunediate benefit. At length, iiowever, the river did fall, and tlie arrival of gold-dust foreshadowed a brighter future. But sailing- vessels left daily, crowded with repentant and dejected adventurers, whose opposition to the country had become so inveterate, that they could not now be made to believe in the existence of gold from Fi'aser lUvcr, though ])rt)ve(l by the ch dar dc le Clearest ocuiar uemonstration. The old inhabitants imagined that Victoria was about to return to its former state of insignificance. Yet it is asserted, on reliable authority, that in propor- tion to the number of hands engaged upon the mines — notwithstanding the unequalled drawbacks in the way of reaching them — the yield during the first six months was much larger than it had been in the same period and at the same stage of development in California or Australia. Mr. Waddington, a gentleman who is proverbially cor- rect in all statistical matters, estimates the production of gold in California during the fii'st .six months of mining, in 184J), at ^240,000. All the gold brought to Melbourne in 1851 amounted to 104,154 ounces, or at i^lG per ounce, ,^1,0GG,4G4, while New South Wales gave for the first six months 45,190 ounces, or ^^723,000. The following is the amount sent by steamer or sailing- vessel from Victoria, between the end of June and the end of October, 1858 :— June $G,000 July 4r>,000 August .... 4.'),000 Spptember .... 104,000 October .... 28;5,000 I YIKLU OF liOl.l). i •> to JJiitisli ill opening ne tot) hito tlic arrival Jut .sailin<i- (1 (li'jcctcd ad bccomo to believe igh ])rove(l inhabitants its former in propor- le mines — the way of iionths was "iod and at ' Australia. bially cor- duction of of mining, Melbourne per ounce, lie first six lor sailing- Id the end lUit in this sum is not ineluded the quantity of dust ac- cunuilated and kept in the country by miners, nor tliat bought by the company or carried away in private hands. Mr. Waddington believes that this latter item will bring the gross total up to (^705,000 or 141,000/., realised be- tween Juiu? and t^eptember, against ^2 10,000 in California, and /^7-5,000 in New South Wales, extracted in six months. Yet this surprising wealth was taken almost entirely from the bed of a few rivers. ' I'ank' diggings were hardly known as yet. A very limited portion of the Lower Fiaser, the Thompson, and the Honnparte, was the ex- clusive sphere of operations. The 'bars' of the Upper Fraser, and the creeks issuing from the northern sj)urs of the llocky Mountains, had yet to be explored. For a few intelligent and persevering men these fsicts and figures had weight. But amateur miners, romantic speculators, and 'whiskey bummers,' could not, by the most attractive representations, be detained in the coun- try, and it was wisely ordered that it should be so. For such scouts of civilisation — had the 'castles in the air' which they built not been demolished — would have re- enacted in our colonies such scenes of riot and bloodshed as disgraced California nine years previously. It was well that we should get rid of all who wantetl impossibilities and indulged exaggerated hopes. The few hardy and enterprising settlers who remained ceased to pursue Will o'-the- wisps, and composed themselves to the sober realities of life. In September '59, when I first set foot in Victoria, the process of depopulation was still going on, though it soon after reached its lowest point. A healthy relation between supply and demand in every department was being effected. The tens of thousands that had pressed into the city in '58 were diminished to not more than 1,500, embracing 74 FKESII DlSt'UVEKlliS. 'the waifs and strays' of every nationality, not excepting a good many wliose antecedents were not above suspicion. Apart from tlie Government buildings, two hotels, and one shop, all the dwellings and houses of business were at that time built of wood. Many stores were closed and shan- ties empty. There was little business doing, and no great l)rospect ahead. This stagnant condition continued with but little abatement till the close of 18G0, when intimations came of eminently productive mines being discovered at the forks of Quesnelle, which at that time seemed as difficult of access as the Arctic regions. A few scoi-es of miners, arguing from the fineness of the gold dust fomid near Hope Yale and the forks of the Thompson, that it was washed down from some quartz formation in the north, penetrated to the spot just referred to. Language fails to describe the trials these men endured from the utter absence of paths of any kind, the severity of winter- climate, and often the scant supply of provisions. The theory by which the daring pioneers were guided was remarkably verified, and the toils of many of them were abundantly rewarded. Their return to Victoria with bags of dust and nuggets rallied the fainting hopes of the community, and they were reii'arded as walking advertisements that the country was safe. Business immediately improved, the value of town property advanced ; some who liad been hesitating about erecting permanent buildings caught ins[)iration, and at once plunged into brick-and-mortar investments. The few scores that had worked on Antler Creek in 'GO increased, in the spring of '61, to 1,500. Some addition to our population in the latter year came from California, and every man who could possibly make it convenient to leave Victoria for the season went to the new diggings. Of those who went, one-third made inde- LETTERS IN THE ' TIMES.' <0 excepting a suspicion. liotels, and less were at id and shan- nd no great tinned with intimations iscovered at seemed as 3W scores of I dust fomid ison, that it itioii in the Language }d from tlie :y of wiuter- sions. The cuided was tliem were ind nuggets ', and they Ithe country lie vakie of II hesitating ins[)iration, ^estments. \v Creek in iOO. Some came from ly make it ent to tlie Imade inde- pendent fortunes, one-third netted several hundreds of pounds, and one-third, from a variety of causes, Avcrc unsuccessful. Some details respecting the early yield of gold will be given in the chapter on the mines of British Columbia. The letters of the ' Times' ' correspondent, published in 18G2, excited great attention, and in that year several tlujusands were induced to visit the country from England, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. These communi- cations may probably have been open to the charge of containing couleur-de-rose descriptions. The writer may have presumed too much on the judgment of his readers to conceive for themselves the dark side of the picture — the privations to be undergone and the risks to be borne in journeying to remote gold-bearing streams. Without having any interest in vindicating the ' Times' ' corres])ondcnt, I do not hesitate to say that this gentle- man's statements were substantially true as far as they went, though it is admitted that his representations would have been more complete had he dwelt more on the arduous nature of the route at the time he wrote, the probabilities of failure in the case of those without ca])ital and luiaccustomed to laborious employment. But nothing tliJit can be said of this inadvertence on the part of the ' Times' ' correspondent can palliate the oversight of any so inconsiderate as to undertake a voyage to British Columbia without counting the cost. Even had the innnigration of 'G2 been altoyether of the class most adapted to the comparatively undeveloped state of the country at that time — which it was not — for all to expect instant success, not to s]:)eak of exemption from losses, would have been to try the colony by tests that would be deemed utterly absurd if applied to the richest country under heaven. Similar objections have been brought a 76 LMMIGKATION OF 1862. thousand times against California and Australia by mcMi whose temper has been ruffled by disappointment. Only a short time ago many of my fellow-passengers from San Francisco to New York were breathing vengeance against tlie former of these states as unfit for habitation, and letters ever and anon appear from persons in our colonies in the southern hemisphere expressing dissatis- faction with their new location there. But these countries advance, nevertheless, with giant strides ; and so, in the face of all senseless clamour, will our possessions on the north-west coast of America. The chief misfortune connected with the influx of population at tliis period was that it comprised an exces- sive proportion of clerks, retired army officers, prodigal sons, and a host of other romantic nondescripts, who indulged visions of sudden wealth obtainable with scarcely more exertion than is usually put forth in a pleasure excursion to the continent of Europe. These trim young fellows exhibited a profusion of leather coats and leggings, assuming a sort of defiant air, the interpretation of which was, ' We are the men to show you " Colonials " how to brave danger and fatigue ! ' But their pretensions gene- rally evaporated with the breath by which they Avero expressed, and many that set out with this dare-all aspect were soon thankful to be permitted to break stones, chop wood, serve as stable-boys, or root out tree-stumps. The vague imaginations with which they left home were soon dissipated, when, on the termination of the voyage, they discovered that 500 miles lay between them and Cariboo — a distance which must be passed over muddy roads and frowning precipices, with whatever necessaries might be required for the trip strapped to their shoulders. Hundreds went half way to the mines, and returned in despondency ; hundreds more remained in Victoria, and VICTORIA. 77 lia by men leiit. Only ngers from vengeance habitation, 5ons in our ng clissatis- se countries 1 so, in the dons on the 3 influx of d an exces- rs, prodigal cripts, who ith scarcely a pleasure trim young nd leggings, :)n of which Is " how to isions gene- they were \e-all aspect [tones, cho}) [mps. The were soon )yage, they id Cariboo [iddy roads tries misfht shoulders. leturned in ;toria, and i were only saved from starvation by the hberality of more prosperous citizens. A much larger number came than the country, with a deficient supply of roads, was prepared to receive. Still a considerable number made large amounts of money, and the majority of those who have possessed sufficient fortitude to bear inconveniences and battle a(]jainst discoura2:ements are in a fair way for speedily acquiring a competency. Description of Victoria. Starting from the corner of Fort and Government Streets, with a radius of tliree quarters of a mile, the town site covers two-thirds of a circle, stretching round the harbour. The streets in general are sixty feet wide, and cross each other at right angles, and from the sloping and imdulating character of the ground there is no point from which the city does not look interesting.* A magnificent natural park, called Beaconhill, of large extent, with a high knoll in the centre, and fringed with pines and oaks, has been reserved for public use. On one side it reaches to the sea-beach, and from the eleva- tion referred to a lovely view is gained of tlie gulf in tlie direction of the Eace Eocks, and of the mountain range in Washington territory in the other direction. This sub- urban enclosure is used as a race-course and cricket- ground, and is the favourite resort of the inhabitants when taking an airing on foot or on horseback. The variety and beauty of the walks and drives around Victoria are, in the opinion of visitors from every part of the world, matchless. The Government offices. Supreme * It is difficult to form an exact estimate of the population of the city in consequence of its migratory character. I should think it would average, last winter, about 5,600. I 78 1MPR0VE.MKNTS IN THE CITV. Court, and the hall occupied by the Parliament, form one pile of buildings, and are situated some distance from the chief thoroughfare of the town, on James's Bay ; although composed of only frame and brickwork, the coup d'ml of this structure, with the lofty pines in the backgroimd, is highly picturesque. The large building in the centre contains the rooms of the Governor, Colonial Secretar)% &c. The Treasury is on the right, the Land Oflice on tlie left, and standing immediately behind are the offices of the Attorney-General, Eegistrar-General, Registrar of tlie Supreme Court, and the Chief Justice, the Coiu't Ilou^e, and the hall of the Legislative Assembly. Streets in which two or three years since the pedestrinn sank knee-deep in mire, are now macadamised, and 1)10- vided with solid wooden footpaths. Large and substantial stone and brick warehouses, well stocked with goods, line the upper part of the harbour on the town side. Between 1861 and 1802 alone fifty-six brick buildings were erected, and since that period very rapid progress has been made in edifices of that character. Several spacious hotels, elegantly furnished, and supplied with every com- fort and luxmy which the most fastidious could wish, have been built — one it is said at a cost of 12,000/., and anotlier at a figure not much lower. Long massive blocks of building in Wharf, Store, and Government Streets, furnish every indication of prosperity and perma- nence. There are many residences in the vicinity that w^ould grace a town fifty years old. Some of these are of brick and stone, and others of wood and cement, witli a stone or brick foundation. The expense incurred in their erection varies from 400/. to 2,400/. The edifice in which the extensive business of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany is carried on is the largest in the city. The greater proportion of buildings are still made of wood and plaster. 1 PUBLIC INST1TUTI0^'S. 79 , form Olio 3 from the althougli coup iVml Lckgroiiiid, the centre Secretar}^ dice on tlie Pices of the vc of the irt House, pcdcstrinn 1, and pro- substantial goods, line Between ings were ogress has ,1 spacious bvery com- Wild wisli, ,000/., and Ig massive vernnieiit d penna- inity that these are iient, witli icurred in edifice in ay Com- lie greater Id plaster. But as the trade of the town advances, solid buildings in the principal streets will become uniform. Among pubHc structures is a hospital, sustained })ar- tially by Government, but mainly by public subscription. Ilook and ladder companies have been formed for extinguisliing fires, to which new towns on the coast are peculiarly liable ; these have their respective halls and engine-houses. Into these volunteer bodies the male population of nearly every class throw tliemselves with great enthusiasm. When in active service or in proces- sion, the members appear in Garibaldi attire, with helmets. A theatre, capable of accommodating 400, is sometimes visited by able and respectable dramatic troupe.% thougli it is to be reiijretted tliat taste for tlie noblest form of the drama is not general in these parts. Dnnking saloons, whicli abound vastly out of proportion to the wants of the population, often sui)ply entertainments of a low and vicious order, and they are much patronised. The Police Barracks are situated inconveniently near the main street. They contain the Court rooms and offices of the Police Commissioner, cliamber of the Govern- ment Assessor and Sheriff, rooms belonging to the police force, the cells of prisoners, and a prison yard. It is not to the honour of the city, however, that lunatics should be placed under tlie same roof with felons. It is to be hoped that this reproach will soon be wiped out, and a suitable asylum provided for these unhappy creatures. The ladies of the town are exceedingly attentive to the wants of the sick and destitute of their own sex. A reading-room, well supplied with books and news- papers, is kept by an enterprising citizen, for admission to which there is a small charge. One of the greatest advantages to reading settlers is the ample and varied assortment of books and magazines sold by Messrs. 80 NATIONAL ASSOCIATIOXS. Ilibbcn and Carswell, whose shop is the chief source of tlie supply of literary pabulum for both colonies ; their stock contains the best as well as the most recent British and American literature. For 21. IG.9. per annum they deliver to subscribers American reprints of ' The Edinburgh Re- view,' ' Tlie Quarterly,' ' The Westminster,' ' The Nortli British,' and ' Blackwood's Magazine,' little more than two months after these works are published in England. Associations have been formed for purposes of be- nevolence, intellectual profit, and amusement, on the ground of community of taste, nation, or race. The Scotch, who are numerous in the city, are represented by a St. Andrew Society, established for affording relief to their needy countrymen, and the annual dinner connected with that institution is the most popular celebration of tlie sort in Victoria. The French perpetuate the remembrance of their nation and foster national predilections through the medium of a 'French Benevolent Society.' The Germans are united in a Singverein, and are always ready to render their valuable musical services for any charitable object. The coloured people, numbering upwards of 300, have a volunteer rifle corps, and have spared no expense or pains to become efficient in the use of the rifle ; they have a hall expressly devoted to the practice of instru- mental music and drill. The appearance they make on special occasions is highly creditable. The whites — espe- cially the more cultivated portion of young men in the city — also boast a rifle corps, which, under the command of its present talented and energetic captain, is quite a public ornament. By drawing together young men with- out family ties, and affording them healthful and useful exercise, such organisations occupy hours that might otherwise be spent mischievously. RRLIOIOUS BODIES. SI source of lies ; their British and ley deliver iburgh Re- rhe JSTortli e than two land. >es of be- lt, on the ace. The esented l)y g rehef to • connected ebration of e of their rough the e Germans ready to charitable ■ds of 300, |io expense ifle; they of instru- make on tes — espe- lien in the command is quite a Imen with- ,nd usefid Hit might The Freemasons have a lodge, and a secret order of total abstainers, called 'Good Templai-s,' originated ni the United States, are putting forth zealous efi'orts to conibufc the abuses of drinking. The newspa[X3r press, for so limited a population, is singularly vigorous and well supported. There are four daily papers published in Victoria — the two |)rinci[)al ones being ' The British Colonist,' and ' The Victoria Chronicle' The others are ' The Evening Express,' and the ' Van- couver Island Times.' The leading religious bodies have places of worship, and are presided over for the most part by excellent clei'gymen and ministers. The Cathohcs were first in the field. They have a commodious church, and three extensive schools. Two of these latter buildings are of brick — the one for boys, under the tuition of priests and freres, the other for girls, who are taught by sisters of charity: the attention these devout women pay to poor and orphan children, does more to secure for them the respect and confidence of even Protestant families than a thousand volumes on polemical theology could do. The behaviour of pupils in the Cathohc scht)ols on the coast, at least north of the border of JMexico, is unsurpassed by that of any Protes- tant eilucational institutions. There is a Eoman Catholic bisliop in Victoria who has toiled among the Iiidimis nearly thirty years. It is said that a considerable [)oi'- tion of the means by which that Church is sustained comes from the Propaganda of Lyons. The episcopal church is i/2iestablished by law. Its clergy in both colonies include a bishop, one or two arch- deacons, and about a dozen priests and deacons. The diocese was founded with a magnificent endowment by Miss Burdett Coutts, amounting to 25,000/. The interest G 82 EriSCOPAL CHURCH. of this, whicli is invested in the colony, goes to pay the salary of the bishop, and to this sum have been added donations and subscriptions for the support of the clergy. A grant of twenty acres of land in the heart of the town site of Victoria was made to tlie pioneer churcli erected under tlie auspices of the Hudson's Bay Company before the period of gold discoveries. This land, com- paratively valueless at the time it was given, has now become greatly enhanced in value, and promises, as the to'.v .ncreases, to render the Church a wealthy corpora- tion. Upon this ground stands the residence of the bishop. In addition to the Cliurch reserve, the English Church bisliop has secured large tracts of land in town and country districts by purchase. There are two Episcopal congre- grations in the city. One of these existed before the diocese was created, and the other has been gathered in connection with an iron church, sent out by the bisliop ; tlie materials of which were provided by benefactions of friends in England. Up to the present time not more than one or two of the Episcopal congregations are self- supporting in either this or the sister colony.* * In an appeal which appeared in the Times a few months since in hehalf of ' the spread of the Gospel in foreign parts,' signed by the Archbishops of Canterbury, York, Armagh, and Dublin, there are quotations from the letters of colonial bisliops, urging the necessity of aid being granted to extend their operations, by the ' Society for Propagating the Gospel.' Among the claimants for assistance from the home branch of the Church is the Bishop of Columbia. Upon his position in this appeal, Tlie British Cohnist (of November 8, 1804) — the leading newspaper in these colonies — makes the following animadversion : — ' The Bishop of Columbia figures somewhat conspicuously in the demand for clerical aid — asking for no less a number than thirteen additional clergy and five catecliists (with 4,000/. to support them). If we thought that Christianity would be in any degree forwarded by this whole- sale influx of ministers from England, we could not of course object to the NONCONFORMISTS. 83 :o pay the cen added ft of the art of the er church Company Uxiid, com- , has now ses, as the y corpora- ce of the ish Churcli nd country pal congre- before the athered in le bishop ; icnefactions |e not more s are self- tince in behalf irchljishops of I'om the letters |o extend their the claimants i of Columbia. I November 8, the following (conspicuously than thirteen [hem). If we |y this wliole- ol)ject to the The Congrogationahsts liave a i)lace of worsliij), in wliich reHgious ordhiances have been sustained Ibr live years, partially witli the assistance of the ' liritish Colonial Missionary Society.' The Presbyterians have recently built an edifice, the minister being supported by the Presbyterian Churcli of Ireland. The adherents of their cause are chielly settlers from Canada, where this denomination is numerous. The Methodists, who also have a church, are Canadians almost exclusively. The Jews liave erected a synagogue, and are presided over by an intelligent and respectable rabbi. It is not to the honour of Christians that this shouhl be the most cost/// reli(fious structure in the j)lace^ and the onli/ one that is built of brick ; the others beiiu/ of wood only, of wood and plaster, or of corrugated iron. All the Christian congre- gations have Sunday schools attached to them. The Churcli of Scotland has recently sent a clergyman to Victoria, who has formed a congregation, but has not as yet any church. * arrangement; but what liiWtop Ili/ls in to do with hia "thirteen rh>n/>/)iini (tml Jive catechiats " in a place so literaUif overrun hi/ reverend t/etitlenien as thin, is ti mathematical problem we should like verij much to see the bishop solve. \ Ileal thy competition in religion is as desiraljle as it is in commurce or trade, but wo know of no superfluity in the market so injurious to fill couccrMi.il as the clerical drug. At present we have more clen/i/nten in the euuntri/ than can Jind congregations ; but if we (jet such an inundati(ni as the liishop is bart/nin- iuij for wc are afraid a yreater number will have to content themselves like ])c(ui iSwift, in his early career, rcith an auditory of one, and that his servant.'' When it is remembered that up to this date not more tlian 14,000 emi- grants are to be found in Vancouver Island and British Columbia collec- tively, — and many of these are of a migratory description, — it must be con- fessed that these remarks administer a seasonable rebuke to one who calls for so lavish an expenditure of the Propagation Society's funds. Besides, Bissenters are largely represented, and to their denominations most of the people belong. * All places devoted to Christian worship in North America are ciilled churches without distinction of sects. G 2 84 COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS. The city is abundantly supplied with schools, in -which is tau<,dit every branch of a superior English education. ' The Collegiate School,' conducted by a principal, vice- ])rincipal, and assistant masters, is ])atronised and aided by Jiishop Hills, and is coiniected with his denomination. ]5esides the elements of a phiin education, instruction is ^iven in the ancient classics, French, German, mathe- matics, music, and drawing ; all these departments being imder the supervision of competent masters. Under the aus[)ices of the same Church there is also a Ladies' College, in which several governesses labour with great assiduity. The fees in both these establishments are 1/. per month and upwards, according to the number of subjects in which teaching is imparted. ' The Colonial School,' under a master salaried by the Local Government, is designed for families unequal to the expense of a first-class education. There are not less than six private Protestant day-schools, kept by ladies and gentlemen respectively, most of which are carefully super- intended. It is expected that in a shoi't time a bill will pass the Leirislature for the establishment of what is known iu Canada as a ' Conunon-School System.' Under this de- sirable measure a tax will be levied upon the inhabit- ants for the erection and support of schools, in which the children of all bona fide settlers will be taught free of charge.* * The clergy of the English Church have been loud in agitation for the introduction of the Bible into the proposed Common Schools ; but the bulk of the inhabitants are unwilling to accede to that arrangement in consequence of the mixed character of the community. There are individuals of every race, and members of every religious persuasion in the colonies ; and it is maintained — as in Canada and the United States — that it would be unjust to Jt AS, Catholics, Buddhists, and Mohammedans, to adopt exclusively the text-book of any one religion. In order to avoid sectarian strife it ia thought JOINT STOCK COM TAXI i:S. S5 ;, ill wliidi education, cipal, vice- mi' I aided loiniiiatioM. (truction is an, inatlic- lents being ire is also a abour with iblishincnts ;he number ried by the jqual to the lot less than ladies and Cully super- ill pass the known in [er this de- lie uihabit- which the jcht free of htation for the but the bulk In consequence [duals of every lies ; and it is juld be unjust [xclusively the I it is thought Every kind of useful article in the cateirory of iron niMnuliicture can now be made in Victcjria. Ali'eady there are two foundries, one of which employs a hu;i^e number of hands. Five breweries are at work, and produce porter, a liirht quality of ale, and la<:fer beer. There are several saw mills, a taimery, and a sash and door manufactory. Among the occupations described in the half-yearly return, under the ' Trades' License Act,' those under wliich rank the greatest number of n.'nnes are carpenters and builders, grocers, merchants, clothiers, bakers, teamsters, and fruiterers.* ' The Victoria Gas Company ' (Joint Stock, Limited) was formed two years since, and ])osscsses a capital of 10,000/., which may by special resolution be increased to 20,000/. The half-yearly account of this Company to June 30, ]8Gi, exhibits a highly satisfactory result. The cash balance in the bank, as certified by the auditors, was ,^'9,817 70c. A dividend at the I'ate of Ih per cent per annum for the half-year absorbed )S'C,5C2 50c., leaving a balance of ,^3,255 20c. to be carried to the reserved fund for contingencies. Pipes are now laid in all the principid streets, and gas is preferred by sh(^pkeepers as more economical than paraffin or any other sort of oil for lighting purposes. The following is a list of the Joint Stock Companies in Victoria, registered to August 1, 18G4, under 'The Van- couver Island Joint Stock Companies' Act, 1860 :' — desirable that to the instrumentality of Sunday Schools and pai-ental effort should be intrusted the religious welfare of children. • Trices of provisions, clothing, &c., with rates of wages and rent, aic given in the chapter on * Emigration.' J 80 MUiMCirAL COLXCIL. Wlirn ro(rI«trrM. CiipltiiJ. . Nov. L'7, |S(M) . . £1(),(HM) . „ 2(5, 1H(U . . 8,(K)() I Aprils, 18(12 . . 1(),(X)() . June 2r), 18(52 . . (I,0()() . Nov. 21,18(12 . . f)(),(K)() . Jan. 1, 18({;{ . . ('.(),(KM) . ir),(KK) . Mar. 17 „ . 4(M) .Auk. 27 M . . 0,000 . Jan. ({, 1^(54 . . H,(KK) . „ ->«» „ . . 2,2(K) . Mar. 28 „ . 2,(KK) . April 4 „ . 12,(K)0 • » '' '» • . 8,(K)0 . » 17 „ . . 4,2(H) „ 18 „ . ir),(KK) . yiny 17 „ . . 7,200 . Juno 1 „ . .'{I,0(K) . Aug. 1 „ . . 10,000 Company. Virtoria CIm ])n. Mnrlict British rolunibia nnd VancnuvtT Island \ Miiiin)j^ lli'ntinck Arm ami I'rasor I'iver lload . Victoria nnd Ksquinudt Haihvay . IJulo Inlot Wagon Ifoad . Victoria Water- Works . . . Soqucs ('reck Silver Mining . Skidt'gatc Copper Mining . . Sansiini Copper Mining IMuir (Quartz (ioldstroam (Quartz-Crushing Company fSarilmldi Copper Mining Ilarowood Ivailway .... I'arnifiter (Quartz Sooke Copper Mining .... Alberni Mining Fuca Straits Coal Mining Spring liidgo Water- Works Tlic last-named of tlicse Companies has materially aug- mented the conveniences of the city by tlie introduction of excellent spring water in service pipes, thereby re- dncing much the cost of this essential of life to the inliabitants. Formerly it had to be conveyed in carts a long distance, at a charge of sixpence for every three bncketfuls. The city was incorporated in 18G2 ; but some flaw in the Act of Incorporation has for a time occasioned a sus- l^ension of municipal authority, and interrupted the action of the corporation. This legal defect, however, will soon be remedied by a new Act of Parliament. City revenue is raised by a trading license, and a tax of one fourth of one per cent on the current value of real proj^erty. It is not improbable that some difficulty may yet arise to exercise the skill of the municipal body in regard to the sewage of the place. While it is small no incon- venience is felt, but the entire absence of a river for the 1 Ciiiiltiil. . X'KMKK) . 10,()0() . ((,0()() , r)(),(X)() . ir),(KK) 400 . 0,000 . 8,(XX) . L^L'(M) . L>,(KK) . 12,(K)0 8,(KK) . 4,L'(K) . ir),(KM) . 7,L'()() . .'M,0(K) . 10,000 rially aug- iroductioii lereby ru- fe to tlio I in carts 'cry three e flaw in led a siis- le action will soon revenue fourth of y- yet arise egard to lO incon- r for the (.IIAUTKUKI) IJANKS. 87 j)iirj)<)st' of diainiiig Victoria may involve the iicc(»ssity of adopting some costly ('X[)cdient for carrying the drainage heyoiid tiie harbour. IVihaps, however, before tliis di(ll- culty presses means may \k devised — as in London at ])resent--for utilising this valuable fnanure. Another want there is which can be ,nore easily sup- ])lied. In the original plan of the town no open spaces wei'e leserved for public squaP"^ — aptly designated by liurkc * lungs' of great cities. There are two chartered banks in Victoria — a brand) of ' the Bank of ]5ritish Xoi'th America,' and anotiicr of *the J3ank of British Columbia.' The latter has started pios[)erous agencies in Nanaimo, New Westminster, Yale, Cariboo, and San Francisco. The substance of the report of an adjourned meeting of the shareholders, held in London on September 2, 1804, will show what j)rogress this institution is making: 'The meeting was held in the London Tavern, Mr. Kay in the chair. \)y resolutions ])assed August 17, respecting the new charter, it was deemed expedient that the Company should be autho- rised to establish banks of issue and deposit, and to carry on the general business of banking in such cities, towns, and places on the western coast of America, and in tlu; adjacent islands, as Her Majesty should be pleased to allow ; and it was resolved, among other things, that the directors sliould be authorised to apply for and accept a supplemental charter. On the motion of the chairman, the resolutions were confirmed. A general meeting is called for the 2Cth inst. The report which is to be pre- sented at this meeting, states that the profit at the end of the half year, ending June 30, 18G4, was 11,105/. ICv. (Jd. ; but of this sum the directors propose to appropriate 5,000/., for a dividend of 8 per cent per annum, free of income- tax. 4,000/. is to be added to the reserve fund, which is 88 VALUE OF TOWN PROPERTY. tlierel)y inoreascd to G,000/., and 2,105/. ICv, Cc/. is carried Ibrwai'd to tlic current lialf year.' Attached to tlie Bank of British Nortli America tliere is an assay office, wliere gold-dust is melted and valued by cjualified and trustworthy officials. These l^anking-houses are allowed to issue notes on condition of retaining in their safes specie to the value of one third the notes in circulation.* A few illustrations of the augmented value of town property may be adduced, as an index of the prosperity of Victoria. A gentleman intimately knoAvn to me was offered a ' lot,' at the close of 1859, at 1,000/., with an extension of time to pay for it. That property (GO feet by 120 feet) was leased for thirty years in 1800 at 15/, })er month. In a short time afterwards the lessee was in the receipt from it of an income, free of all taxes, amounting to 50/. ])er month. Lots in Fort Street, that were bought in 1858 for 10/, or 20/. eacli, are now assessed at 1,000/. and uj)- wards. Two brothers invested 800/. in town property in the sj)i-ing of that year, and in little more than six years their land is assessed at more than 12,000/. A corner lot on Yates and Government Streets, that cost the present proprietor 1,100/., now rents for 50/. per month; another, belonging to the same gentleman, for which he paid 600/., now brings him 16/. per month ; and another still, pur- chased at 1,200/., now yields a rent of 18/. per month. There is a person luxuriating in England at the present moment who went to the island as a poor ship carpenter. When the riu4i of immigration came in 1858, he and his \ * The firm of Wells, Fargo, and Co., nn American house, does a large banking as well as c.rprrss business. They have special messengers to con- vey treasure, parcels, and letters between Victoria and San Francisco. They also sell drafts on the principal towns of the United States and England. j ! TRADES AND PROFESSION.S. 80 '. is caiTiud erica tliero iiid valued ; notes on le value of e of town prosperity i offereil a intension of r 120 feet) nontli. In iceipt from :o 50/. ])er it in 1858 U. and uj)- iroperty in |i six years coriier lot |ie present ; another, [oaid 600/., still, pur- month, le present arpenter. e and his I does a large igers to con- cisco. They lEuglaud. ■wife were living behind the bar of a small imblic-house — the resort of sailors, lie bought about 40/. or CO/, worth of property after ho arrived, which now brings him the handsome income of 4,000/. per annum. Another in- habitant, with whose history I am familiar, brought to the country in 1857 GO/., and the land he purchased with that amoimt now realises to him 80/. per month. A piece of land which at the close of 1859 was purchased for a church, is now estimated to be worth at least 1,000/. A friend of mine bought 100 acres in the suburbs in 18G1, at 20/. per acre, the purchase-money to be paid in instalments extending over a twelvemonth. lie paid down 4/. to legalise the transaction ; and, in a fortnight afterwards, cut uj) the estate into lots of five acres each, and resold it at an average advance of 12/. per acre. These are only casual instances of successful investment in property, out of many that might be enumerated. It must be acknowledged that city property has been subject to fluctuations. Still, there is no probability of its e\'er being lower than it is at present. A LIST OF TRADES AND TROFESSIONS IX VICTOKLV. Auctioneers , Bankers • • . 4 Agents .... i Billiard halls , , . 17 Assayers 2 Bowling alleys , , , ;{ Accountants, itc. . . 2 Biscuit-baker , , . 1 Architects . 4 ]>ricklayers . , , 2 Builders and contractors . 18 Brass-founder , , . 1 IJootniakers . . 13 Blind" maker , , . 1 ]'>oarding-hoiu<es . . 7 Commission me rcluinta . . 7 Butchers . Cabinet-makers , , . 3 Bakers . 23 Carpenters . • « . 14 Brickmakers . 5 Coal dealers .. , , . 3 Brewers . 3 Coachmakera « • . 4 Bookseller , . 1 Clothiers , , . H ]iag and tent-makers . 2 Chemists and druggists . . Broker . 1 Cigar dealers • • . 4 Barristers . 5 Cowkeepers . • • . 5 90 TRADES AND PROFESSIONS. Cutlers. 2 Machinists . 4 Coffee and spice merchant 1 Milliners, &c. 3 Coffee dealers 2 ^lasons . 2 (yoopers . . . . 2 News agents . 2 Charcoal dealers . 2 Oyster-room 1 Carrier 1 Outfitter 1 Confectioners 3 I*ainters 7 Dealers in dry goods 2 Provision merchants <> Draymen . 35 Pastrycooks . 3 Drapers, mercers, &c. . 7 niotographers . 4 Dentist 1 Porters. 2 ] )ealer8 in grains . 2 Paperhanger 1 Dressmaker . . 1 Plasterers . 4 Dealer in toys 1 Printers . 2 Dealer in glass and crockery 1 Poulterers . 3 Express men and agents 4 Provision dealer . 1 ]!^ngraver 1 l*ork butcher 1 Estate agents 18 Plumber 1 Fruiterers 20 Restaurateurs , 22 Fishmongers 8 Scrivener 1 Furniture dealers . 9 Stove dealers 2 Furrier 1 Stonecutters . 2 General dealers . 9 Storekeeper . 1 Grocers 39 Scourer, &c. 1 Gastitter 1 Saddlers 2 Gunsmiths . 2 Shipping agent . 1 Greengrocers . . 2 Sailmaker . 1 General trader . 1 Syrup and soda-water manu- Hatters ' . . 2 facturer . 1 Hairdressers , 8 Shipbuilder . 1 Hotel-keepers . 5 Stationers 2 Hosiers and glovers 3 Solicitors 5 Haberdashers, &c. 11 Surveyor 1 Hackman 1 Tobacconists 7 Innkeepers . 11 Tailors 10 Indian traders 7 Tinsmiths 4 Iron merchants . 2 Turners and carvers 2 Insurance agents . 2 Traders . 9 Jewellers , , 4 Tea-dealers . 2 Livery stable keepers . 4 Upholsterers . 2 lime-burner 1 Undertaker . 1 Ijocksmith . 1 Washerwomen and laun- Lumber merchants 4 dresses 19 Mantua-makers . 8 "Watermen . 10 Merchants . 13 Wagon maker 1 Mill owner . . . . 1 Watchmakers , 3 Mattress-maker . 1 Wood dealers 3 91 laiin- 4 li «) 2 1 1 7 (> 3 4 2 1 4 2 3 1 1 1 22 1 2 2 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 5 1 7 10 4 2 9 2 2 1 19 10 1 3 3 CHAPTEK lY, VICTORIA AS A FREE TORT. Principal Free Ports throughout the World — Results of the Free Port System in Hamburg, the Channel Islands, and Hongkong — Importance of guarding Victoria against the Introduction of Customs Duties — Pro- posed Union with British Columbia as aflecting the Free I'ort Arrange- ment — Comparative Prospects of New "Westminster and Victoria — l\eso- lutions of the Island Legislature in regard to Union — Imports— Number and Tonnage of Vessels— Exports of Gold from 18o8 to 1804— Exports of British and French Goods to Sitka — "Washington Territory — Oregon — Cali- fornia and Mexico — Commanding Position of Victoria as a Free Port, and the powerful Inducements it offers Biitish Merchants for opening up Trade with the Coast of Western America — Facilities offered by A'ancouver's Island for Return Cargoes to China, Japan, Australia, and New Zealand — Califoniian Opinion of Victoria an a probable Rival of San Francisco — Description of Goods suited for the Victoria Market — Rapid Increase of Population in Puget Sound — The proposed Erection of Esquimalt into the chief Naval Station of the Pacific, the Construction of a Sanitarium for invalided Naval Men, and the bearing of these Events on the Growth of Victoria. Victoria is a free port {?i the strictest sense of that term. With the exception of Labuan and Hongkong it is the only place in the vast category of British depots for ocean commerce in which no customs duties are leviable. In addition to this city and the two localities above-mentioned, the principal British free ports throughout the world are Singapore, Malta, Gibraltar,* and the Cape of Good Hope. In many of our colonies, as in the United States, tlie popular opinion seems to be that the imposition of high • This is free for English goods only. I 92 VICTOKIA AS A FliEE rORT. duties is the sure path to liigh prosperity. At Prince Edward's Island wine pays 23 per cent duty ; machinery, 20 per cent; and clocks, 25 per cent. Canada charpjes from 10 to 100 per cent on all staple articles of import, and only admits free a few of a minor description.* Most of the other British possessions have framed their scales of tariff after the English model. In other European countries the great mercantile centres of this character are Heligoland, Bremen, Odessa, and Hamburg. In the West Indies, St. Thomas is free, and ranks as the banking house of that i)art of the world. Odessa carries on both a foreign and internal trade very much like Victoria. In Hamburg, the mart and port for Germany, there is a uniform half per cent ad valorem duty. But the Britisk commercial capital of the North West Coast of America^ hearing the name of the Sovereign, has the honourable dis- tinction of being perfectly free. Thus, as was remarked by the ' Times,' we are enabled to feed the hunf]frv and clothe tlie naked in neighbouring states ; and the Xew York cor- respondent of that paper, in a letter published in September, said : — ' British goods paying no duty pour from Victoria in Vancouver Island into California, whose citizens are thus enabled to clothe themselves in purple and fine linen, without paying tribute to the Washington treasury.' It is unquestionable that free ports, though usually established in districts comparatively non-producing and not eminently favourable for the pursuits of agriculture — but chiefly depending upon foreign and internal trade — are among the most flourishing cities in the world. A modern writer says in regard to Hamburg, where trade is almost entirely free : — * Gaspy, in Canada, is in the anomalous position of being nominally a free port ; but is so surrounded by restrictions that an outlet for goods from it is impossible. HAMBURG AND OTHKR PORTS. 03 At Prince inaclnneiy, da cliarpjc's 1 of import, oscriptioii.* amed tlieir r European laracter are In the lie banking carries on ce Victoria. ly, there is the British if America^ urahle dis- marked by I and clothe ^ York cor- eptember, m Victoria izens are fine hnen, ry.' 1 usually ucing and cidture — 111 trade — v^orld. A ere trade linallj' a free •ds from it is Its transactions consist partly in agency, but chiefly in purchase and sale for merchants who buy the commodities of Grreat Britain, France, Spain, and the United States, and supply with these all the countries on the Elbe and the Rhine, and a great part of the Prussian and Austrian dominions. Hamburg was established as a free city less than 100 years ago, and with that freedom she has prospered in population and wealth, and now her vessels entering and leaving number some 20,000 annually, with a tonnage of two millions. The Channel Islands are another illustration of the same advantage. Only a few duties are levied there, and in pro- portion to the area of these islands and their opportunities of extending local commerce tliere is no spot on the globe where more trade is done or where property rides at such a high value. Land, which on the opposite coast of England fetches 30^. per acre, in Jersey brings an annual rental of from hi to 40^. The prodigious increase in our trade with China dates from the opening of Hongkong as a free port. ' Customs duties cramp commerce like the iron shoes on the feet of Chinese girls. Our cry in London now is. No turnpikes^ and they are fast being demolished : but there is little chance of our losing our Custom-house turnpike. A free port is the merchant's paradise, the sailor's haven, and the mart of mankind. Should any one propose a tariff for Victoria they should be sent to — Hongkong ! ' * Our infant city has a claim upon the attention of capitalists and politicians as the most interesting of British commercial centres in which that grand idea of modern political science — for which we are mainly indebted to the late lamented Mi\ Cobden — is destined to be carried to its fullest development. This liberal fiscal system as applied to local commerce ' Letter from tlie London correspondent of The Victoria f'hronirfe. 94 VICTORIA AS A FREE PORT. is tlie foundation of the present and prospective prosperity of Victoria. It has attracted to the colony the bulk of our population, and enriched our landlords. In its tendency to augment the number of consumers — as examples of free ports elsewhere illustrate — it will furnish a large and remunerative market for farming produce. The agricul- turists of the colony who send men to represent them in the Legislature for the pur])ose of obtaining a protective tariff had need to pause before committing themselves to a policy so suicidal. Its adoption is the certain insertion of the thin point of the wedge and the admission of a principle that, under pressure of financial nijcessity, our colonial authorities might be tempted to extend to general imports. The time for protection is gone. That article in the creed of Conservatism is expunged for ever, and duties are no longer levied in England hut as a source of revenue. No precedent should be sanctioned in Victoria that would entail the difficulties and annoyances of Custom-houses, the paraphernalia of bonded warehouses, the inconvenience and expense of revenue service officials, inducements to fraud and speculation, and the necessity of withdrawing goods from bond at stated intervals. Bays, inlets, and other entrances, with which our coast is indented, are so numerous as to offer peculiar facilities for smuggling, and necessitate a vast army of tide-waiters that might be prevented. Import duties would drive away foreign ship- ping, close our stores, and inevitably call into existence some rival port in the neighbouring American territory by which our commerce would be ruined. But not only would tampering with the present immacidateness of our free port ultimately result in the depreciation of real estate, the decay of commerce, and tlie diminution of the public revenue, but also in the decline of agriculture and the ruin of the farmer. Not RELATIOXS OP VICTORIA AND WESTMINSTER. 95 prosperity Lilk of our jiidency to Ics of free large and le agricul- Lt them in protective nselves to nsertion of a principle ir colonial ill imports. I the creed des are no 'enue. No hat would )m-houses, )nvenience :lucements ithdrawing nlets, and |ed, are so ling, and I might be feign ship- existence [rritory by present [dt in the lerce, and \,o in the ler. No; only docs our existing immunity from Customs' charges contribute to the rapid extension of population, but it enables the ftirmer to purchase manufactured imports at much less expense than he could do under a protective system.* In the discussion which has been agitating the colonists of British Columbia and Vancouver Island both in and out of the Colonial Legislature, on the question of the organic union of these two colonies, the problem which has com- phcated the proposed scheme is, how, in the event of both dependencies being placed under one governor and electing one Parliament, the distinct modes of raising revenue which now obtain in the Colonies respectively could be maintained. It is argued that British Columbia being the larger colony and likely to contain the larger population, its representatives in the Legislative Assembly Avould sooner or later outnumber those of the island ; in which case British Columbian interest must predominate in the Parliament. Victoria is regarded by some persons in the sister colony as antagonistic to New Westminster, the latter mercantile depot being burdened with a Customs' tariff which constitutes the main source of the revenue of British Columbia. It is apprehended that even should the people of that colony consent to union with Vancouver Island at present on condition of preserving Victoria as a free port, those who are interested in attempts to draw commerce to New Westminster and inflict injury upon Victoria would eventually bring influence to bear through the more numerous electoral constituencies of British Columbia, unify the mode of levying taxes in both colonies, and thus demolish the free port system. These fears, however, seem to me to be without founda- * This point is put more fully in the chapter on Island.' Agriculture in the 96 VICTORIA AS A FREE PORT. tion. Tlie ft-ce port, upon wlucli a portion of the citizens of New Westminster are disposed to look with obvious suspicion and jealousy, will be increasingly felt as time advances to be a public advantage to British Columbia in common with the entire Northern Coast of America in the Pacific. I believe the union desired by Vancouver Island to be practicable on the proviso of the colonies regulating their methods of taxation separately as they now do, and agreeing to pay a proportion of the general income of tlie local Government to be fixed according to the revenue of each. This last article in the Constitution would probably call for an adjustment of the Legislative representation that would leave Vancouver Island with a minority of members in Parliament. But if tlie commercial status quo of that colony be immovably established by the instrument of union, all other details connected with the joint adminis- tr£itioii of both colonies might be very easily, amicably, and permanently settled. The greatest physical advantages with which the island has been endowed are its harbours ; situated in convenient proximity to the ocean, which point out for the southern part of the colony a high commercial destiny. There are no such capacious places of anchorage between San Francisco and tlie Russian possessions of America. The natural advantages conferred upon a country indicate the direction in which its interests should be developed with the greatest care. Had England been preeminenthj adapted for agricul- tural operations it would have been preposterous that commerce and manufactures should receive supreme at- tention from British capitahsts. Vancouver Island having capabilities of a similar nature to those of the parent country — there being greater inducements presented for the extension of commerce than for farming, — we should be infatuated to protect farming at the expense of arresting I i. I UNION OF THE COLONIES. 97 e citizens of til obvious bit as time lolumbia in erica in the liver Island s regulating ow do, and ZGUiQ of the 5 revenue of Id probably mtation that of members quo of that ^tniment of int admhiis- »•, amicably, advantages s harbours ; vhich point commercial If anchorage isessions of id upon a 'ests should [or agricul- lerous that lip re me at- -nd having fhe parent !seiited for we should ^f arresting the influx of commerce. For we should thus sacrifice what nature designed should be our prime interest for one which nature with equal clearness intimates must always hold a secondary place. The same argument applies to the subject of union. That object is sought with a view to securing strength and economy, as there would then be but one government and one staff of leading officials. But if it were found, on calm delibeiation, that the free action of the commerce of Victoria wei'e likely t(^ be in the slightest degree jeopardised by the union, all thought of it should be abandoned. Let the union, however, be successfully inaugurated, with Victoria as a port kept free, and in ten years the opposition which has been waged by certain lotholders in New Westminster against our rising port would be counterbalanced by the masses of Jiritish Columbia ]ii'o- testhig against any attempt on the part of their political representatives to meddle with existing fiscal ai'range- ments in Victoria. The advantages of the free port to British Columbia are plain. That colony is furnished with whatever foreign commodities she may want at a far cheaper rate than she could otherwise procure them. The merchant there is enabled to purchase, in Victoria, his goods in such assoited quantities as suit his limited market, and then he saves the outlay and risk attending large direct importation from Europe and Asia. The comparative prospects of Victoria and New West- minster are set forth in the following extract from an article that appeared in ' The British Colonist,' from my pen, in September 1863, when, through the unfortunate intervention of my friend, the Hon. Malcolm Cameron of Canada, the colony of British Columbia received from the Duke of Newcastle a separate government. II 98 VICTORIA AS A FREE PORT. ' The gratifying prospect of obtaining the services of a governor exclusively devoted to the i)rotection of the interests of that colony, and the anticipated inception of representative government by a corps le(/idatij\ have com- bined to revive in the merchants and landowners of New Westminster the long-cherished hope of undermining the prosperity of Victoria, and centralising the commercial activity which now distinguishes this port in that rival city. Earnestly do we trust that the auspicious epoch about to be inaugurated in the adjacent colony may bring peace to the spirits of certain of its inhabitants, so long chafed by the spectacle of a neighbouring city striding in advance of New Westmiiister with provoking rapidity. Sincerely do we desire that the favourable condition soon to be introdu'^ed may offer advantages corresponding to the utmost expectations of our fellow-subjects, for the trial of that fond and ambitious experiment by which it is attempted to transfer the crown of mercantile jyreoo. dence from Victoria to New Westminster. The more complete the opportunity afforded of ascertaining how far that project is practicable, the sooner will our irritable neighbours be induced to relinquish it as Utopian, and concur with all sane populations on this coast lu acknow- ledging Victoria as the grand port for ocean shipping, and the unrivalled emporium for the distribution of English imports throughout British and American territory on the shores of the Pacific. During the last four years and a half the prevailing sentiments indulged by owners of stores and lords of the soil in the capital of British Co- lumbia towards the inhabitants of Victoria have been of a cantankerous description, and singularly inappropriate between citizens of colonies ruled by one sceptre, and indissolubly interwoven in the network of common ma- terial interests. Vituperation has been lavished profusely COMPARED WITH NEW WESTMINSTER. [){) COS of a . of the iption of ive com- of New tiling the nniercial hat rival .IS epoch Lay bring , so long riding in rapidity, tion soon Diiding to , for the ■ which it [le pre^'P. 'he more ling how irritable ian, and acknow- iping, and If English ry on the lars and a wners of ■itish Co- been of ipropriate itre, and imon ma- profusely upon tlic Executive of James's Bay, by the press ot i!ie Queen City of Fraser Eiver. The leading representatives of trade, including the Hudson Bay Company, and persons among us found convicted of investing money in real estate in Victoria, liave been anatlieinatised as cons])! rate )rs against tlie progress of New Westminster. Any respect- able inliabitant of this place, wlio has possessed sudicieiit courage to visit that city, has usually been suspected of malicious esptonn<i(/e, and exposed to forms of address hardly calculated to sweeten his recollections of the trip. When, with becoming meekness and fervency, we have entreated our indignant neighbours to accept assurances of the goodwill of the people of Victoria, they have only waxed more perverse, and illustrated the expressive lines of the satirist — They joined in one hnrnionious grunt, "We wunt, we wunt, we wunt, we wunt. * We had thought that the celebrated ftible of " the Fox and the Grapes" would cease to have any a])plication to them, and that their exaggerated hopes of attaining pre- eminence in trade would ere this have been abundantly sobered down by past ineffectual exertions to reach that coveted position. But with heroic purpose and aug- mented infatuation they are again rallying their energies to grasp that dazzling object on which their aspirations have been unquenchably set. 'The contemplated separation of the two colonics is viewed as removing one important barrier that formerly opposed the satisfaction of their wishes. The residence of the new Executive of British Columbia in New West- minster, it is believed, will present fascinations whose splendour will tempt merchants to abandon those spacious warehouses hning our harbour, and beg the privilege of erecting substitutes on the banks of the Fraser. It is H )i 100 VICTORIA AS A FRKE TOUT. with rcfjrot that wohnvo to burden tlio sense of propriety in our readers still further, by iuroruiin^' them of a pro- l)liecy current in oraeidar circles, in the charmed city, ihut {ill irahite dictii!) in four years from the establishment of the new administrative iri/iiiw, statistics will demon- strate New Westminster, in rcispect of wealth and popu- lation, to be trium|)hant. The issue of the (luestion con- cerninj^ the C()mj)arative prospects of these rival cities is. not left to be determined, however, by the will of even those representatives of commercial and politictd wisdom who preside over the destinies of New Westminster. There are inflexible laws controlling' the j^rowth of mer- cantile centres, a<^ainst which all the force of their col- lective intelligence, and all the sagacity and magnificence of their improved govei'nment cannot i)rcvail. The pas- sion of caprice or personal aggrandisement may impel individu.al pioneers in an infant country to select a ])ar- ticular location for the Ibiniding of a sea-port. But unless the choice made turn out to be in obvious harmony with public interest, competitive entei'prise, which in the aggregate cannot be ultimately satisfied without the at- ttiinment of the utmost possible advantage to the greatest nniuber, will speedily set that choice aside. It were therefore an outrage upon tlie natural instincts of the community, to imagine that trade in the Gidf of Georgia should be permitted to radiate from Victoria as the chief commercial centre in preference to New Westminster, unless the topographical superiority of the former place had plainly commended it to the approval of our whole- sale importers and minor traders generally, as the depot most compatible with the widest public advantage. The situation of Victoria is so remarkably adapted for the purposes of extensive commerce, that the natural circum- stances by which it is in this respect peculiarly favoured must be ascribed expressly to providential arrangement. I COMPAUKD WITH XKW WKSTMIXSTKU. 101 proprii'ty of a i)ro- •nicd city, iblishinont ill (luinoii- jind popu- .'slioii coii- m\ cities is. 11 uf even :al wisdom (jstiuiuster. til of iiier- tlieir col- li' nn(iceiicc The ptis- iiny impel 'lect a ])iir- [lort. But 'uirmoiiy cli ill the )Ut the at- the greatt'.st It were s of the 3f Georgia the chief estminster, mer place mr whole- the depot ■e. The I d for the al circum- ^ favoured angemciit. It is onvoiiieiit to the ocean, niid oxteiids to sliippinc,' the (loul)le protection of its ample harbour, which is not only far removed from exposure to the tempests that assail the o|)eii a-coast, but at a safe distance from the stormier parts of the C4ulf. It is contiguous to the yet more commodious hiirl)oiir of Esquiinalt. It is accessible to vessels at all «<easons, and, as the mineral and timber ])roducts of tins island and Tuget Sound continue to be developed, the Vc'irious lonchng points can be jipproached hence with expedition iind safety ; so that, even had the two cities under consideration been iishei-ed into existence simultaneously, the conclusion is iri'esistible, from the facts that have been adduced, that the commanding position enjoyed by Victoria would have infallibly gained for it commercial supremacy. J]ut that inference is confirmed beyond dispute, Avheu it is remembered that the prt more richly endowed with natural advantages is also greatly the senior of its querulous rival. It is as unrea- sonable to expect that the foi'mer can be overtaken by the latter, as that one steed of superior mettle to another and having the start of that other, should be beaten on the turf. So extensive has been the amount of capital expended on mercantile appliances in Victoria, so remu- nerative have those sources of wealth [)roved, so powerful is the connection formed by our importers with great shipping firms in England and other parts of the world, and so incomparably rapid has been the general progress of the city, that the colossal dimensions into which it is destined to expand arc already unmistakably foreshadowed, as the leading mart on the sea-board north of San Fran- cisco. Nor would it be astonishing were it to outmatch in future ages that renowned entrepot of California. ' But among the elements of its prospective greatness, freedom from restrictions imposed upon the operations of commerce by Customs'-duties should not be omitted. The 1 102 VICTORIA AS A FREE PORT. convenience inseparable from that untrammeled condition is liberally appreciated by purchasers from adjacent loca- lities. Tlie free-port system has secured for us the lion's share of trade with British Columbia ; it occasions con- siderable illicit and irregular traffic with Washington Territory of a profitable description, and attracts increas- ing orders for supplies of English goods from Oregon and California. 'But while the local advantages of Victoria combine with the analogy of the leading city in a neighbouring gold-producing country, to indicate the towering impor- tance that must ever distinguish this port as compared with New Westminster, we must not be understood as sympathising with insinuations sometimes to be met with respecting alleged dangers in the navigation of the Fraser, and the consequent impossibility of inducing vessels of heavy tonnage to clear at foreign ports for the capital of British Columbia. The position of Montreal on the St. Lawrence, of Philadelphia on the Delaware, and of Wash- ington on the Potomac, offers no impassable barrier against the approach of large ships to those cities. The innnense tract of country navigable by the Fraser marks out that river as the principal and indispensable channel of communication with the interior of British Columbia ; {uid with the ingress of population, and the multiplication of inland towns, the growth of the port of entry will be inevitable. As the wealth of resident merchants increases, they will enjoy the gratification for which they long, in witnessing ocean shipping alongside their wharves. The expanding trade of the colony may eventually summon into requisition the further accommodation offered by Bur- rard Inlet. An extended system of lumber-mills may probably offer facilities for the supply of valuable return cargoes. But the infiated hopes of our neighbours in reference to the accomplishment of that happy consum- mosrECTS op new Westminster. 103 condition cent loca- . the lion's sions con- 'ashington ts increas- regon and I combine ghbouring ng impor- compared 3rstood as I met with he Fraser, vessels of capital of )n the St. of Wash- barrier les. The er marks channel olumbia ; iplication y will be increases, long, in es. The summon 1 by Bur- lills may le return hours in consum- mfition, are not according to discretion. Years must elapse before it can be realised. Invincible forces are in opera- tion, arising unavoidably out of geographical and com- mercial relations with surrounding localities, to render the advancement of New Westminster slow and insignificant in comparison with that of Victoria. Financial inabihty must prevent the chief proportion of merchants in the sister-capital from opening, for a considerable time, ac- counts with English, or even San Francisco, houses. They will therefore be compelled, until circumstances favour their forming a connection with firms at a distance, to accept such fare as Victoria may provide. It will be long before the business of any single merchant in British Columbia can justify him to engage in importation direct from the parent countr}% and when a company of mer- chants are prepared to join in that undertaking, arrivals at New Westminster from England, or even from countries less remote, will for a great while be infrequent. During the tedious interval in which those experiments are being tried, the spreading pinions of this island-emporium shall have grown so powerful that she will have soared infinitely above the reach of New Westminster — defying for ever the competition of all immediately surrounding rivals. There is certainly nothing in the past history of com- mercial enterprise in New Westminster to augur bril- liantly for the future. After the convulsive struggles of our neighbours to shake off dependence on Victoria, their bravado has only been sustained by the advent of a couple of vessels to their shores in four years. The merchants of New Westminster cannot afford to receive any consi- derable freight direct from a distance, till the demand from the upper country in their market is sufficiently brisk to guarantee their turning over the amount of invoice within such limited period as is commensurate tvith their obtain- ing a remunerative interest upon outlay. While small 104 VICTOKIA AS A FREE TORT. packages are most suitable to the wants and tlie means of traders, the inconveniences will be much fewer in procur- ing small stocks from Victoria, than in their uniting to charter a vessel to bring their wares from a distance. It is unnecessary to dwell on this part of the subject. It has been maintained that the char<»;es in freiu^ht, storao;e, and commission, incurred by the transit of goods to New Westminster via Victoria, cannot longer be endured, and that the saving in tliose items accruing from direct ship- ments would enable the merchants of New Westminster to undersell those in our port. But that assertion simply amounts to saying, that the importers of Victoria gain such enormous profits that they could easily afford to reduce them, and that any attempt at competition in New W^est- minster would at once make them resolve to do so. The only source of custom we can see open to the port of entry on the Fraser Eiver consists of the smaller traders in Yale, Douglas, and similar places in the interior, whose fmances do not admit of their buying in quantities large enough to make a shipment from Victoria worth while. But, directly their resources improve, they will naturally purchase where they can have the largest scope for selec- tion. Still the number of third-rate traders in the upper country will ahvays be sufficient to insure a quiet, steady, and advancing trade to New Westminster. We regard the relation subsisting between Sacramento and San Fran- cisco as definitely illustrative of the position just discussed. ' Finally, it should not be overlooked that the transport of provisions to the northern mines is likely to be much less expensive by the coast routes via Bentinck Arm and Bute Inlet, than by the existing mode of conveyance via Fraser Eiver. Should that prediction be verified, a con- siderable amount of traffic will unquestionably be diverted from the present chief port of British Cohunbia, that would otherwise fall to its lot. But every rival depot in that KESOLUTIONS ON UXIOX. 105 means of n procur- niting to auce. It ;t. It lias rafje, and to New Lired, and 'ect sliip- ;stminstcr )n simply cain such :o reduce ew West- so. The 3 port of ;r traders |or, whose ties larcje th while. natm-ally for selec- he upper t, steady, e regard an Fian- liscussed. [transport )e much irm and nice via a con- Idiverted )ia, that )t in that I I colony, while tending to check the commercial predomi- nance of Xew Westminster, will open an additional market for the merchandise of Victoria. So that, while the dis- tribution of Avealth and population in that colony will determine for Xew Westminster a very circumscribed position as compared with Victoria, the latter will keep adding innumerable strings to its already powerful bow, and absorbing, as it now does, a ratio of inhabitants equal to one third of the entire population of both colonies. We would invoke the industrious citizens of the emulous port with which our remarks have been concerned, in the name of concord, amity, and connnon sense, to lay aside all mijustifiable bitterness toward their more fortunate neigh- bours on this side the gidf, and resign themselves to their destiny.' Subjoined are the resolutions passed by the Legislatiu^e of Vancouver Island in October last, in reference to the proposed union : — I. Resolved, That this House is of opinion : 1. That there should be a Federal Union of Vancouver Island and British Columbia. 2. That the Federal Government should he vested in the Governor and Federal Legislative Council. 3. That the Legislative Council be composed of an equal niunber of persons from each colony. 4. There shall be one Governor for both colonies. 5. That the Governor and Legislative Council shall have jurisdiction over all jjublic questions in which both colonies have a common interest. C. That each local Legislature should have a right to deter- mine the mode of taxation Avithin its jurisdiction for federal as well as local purposes. 7. That the Crown Revenues Le the property of the Federal Government. 8. That all laws, usages, and liabilities of each colony, except where altered by Act of Federal Union, remain as they are, till changed by the the Federal or Local Legislature respectively. 106 VICTORIA AS A FREE PORT. II. Resolved, That His Excellency the Governor be respect- fully requested to enter into negotiations with His Excellency the Governor of British Columbia, with the object of establish- ing a Federal Union of Vancouver Island and British Columbia, based on the provisions of the previous Eesolutions. III. Resolved, That His Excellency the Governor be respect- fully urged to submit every question of difference, not affecting our free trade policy, between himself and His Excellency the Governor of British Columbia respecting the proposed Federal Union, to Her Majesty's principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, for final decision, binding on both colonies. IV. Resolved, That a committee of three be appointed to explain the views of this House, as embraced in the foregoing Eesolutions to His Excellency the Governor. V. Resolved, That the foregoing Resolutions be transmitted to His Excellency the Governor. The value of imports to Victoria from all quarters in 1863, amounted to about 770,000/., showing an advance, as compared with the imports of 1861, of about 368,000/., and with those of 1862, of about 260,000/. Total Amount of Imports into the Port of Victoria, Van- couver Island, for the years 1861 -63. 1861 1st Quarter 2nd Quarter 3rd Quarter 4th Quarter $ $ $ $ San Francisco . 331,731 315,013 234,956 271,713 Portland . 47,188 54,040 25,189 42,874 Puget Sound 29,257 45,278 51,504 60,346 Biitish Columbia ..^k. 1,605 14,171 1,507 Honolulu . 11,328 6,999 11,419 12,735 China — — — Melbourne — — — — Valparaiso — — — — England . Total value oi 164,350 45,547 57,530 191,084 570,259 583,854 468,482 395,829 ■ imports foi • 1861 ;^2,018,424 IMrORTS. 107 or be respect- [is Excellency of establish- ish Columbia, s. or be respect- , not affecting Excellency the posed Federal State for the es. appointed to the foregoing )e transmitted I quarters in ; an advance, It 368,000/., ictoria, Van- 18G2 ter 4th Quarter ) i 271,713 42,874 50,346 1,507 12,735 191,084 *;4 570,259 24 Ist Quarter 2ml Quarter 3rd Quarter 4th Quarter $ $ $ $ San Francisco . 417,847 867,345 563,812 540,857 I'ortland . 14,788 24,034 22,3.30 13,318 I'lipet Sound 57,144 68.914 38,727 69,098 Uritish Columbia 13,100 1,200 9,6.35 8,489 Honolulu . 47,134 32,095 20,301 5,918 China — — — 22,268 Melbourne — — .32,170 — Valparaiso — — 17,000 — England . Total value ol 162,479 49,239 288,511 204,019 712,492 1,034,327 998,546 804,877 * imports for 1802 ^2,550,242 1863 Ist Quarter 2nd Quarter 3rd Quarter 4th Quarter $ $ $ $ San Francisco . 596,486 411,207 523,149 410,.585 Portland . 24,975 39,242 38,440 18,007 I'uget Sound 101,317 69,980 34,356 65,381) British Columbia 3,998 7,745 21,043 38,991 Honolulu . 12,918 35,380 25,092 40,(>.)0 China — — 44,434 1,000 INIelboume — — — — Valparaiso — — — — England . Total value ol 372,370 256,383 628,890 1,315,404 38,300 1,112,061 819,937 613,028 ' imports for 1863 ^3,860,4; 50 Imports for the six months ending December 31, 1859, ,01,090,090 June 30, 1860, ^1,405,801. » w It will be seen from the following tabular return of tonnage, that the number of vessels was greater in 1862 tlian in 1863, while the amount of tonnage in the latter year was larfjer than in the former. The excess in the number 108 VICTORIA AS A FIIKE TORT. of vessels for 18G2 is arcoimted for by the iiiiiisually ex- tensive immigration -vvliicli took place in that year. Comparative Reiurn of the Number and Tonnarje of Vessels of each Nation, entered at the Port of Victoria, diirincf the years 1861-G3. Nationnlity. 1801 1 1 1802 ' 1803 i 1 No. Tonnnge No. Tonnage No. Tonnngo Colonial . British American (lerinan . Danish Hanover . I'russian , 425 53 598 10,750 9,020 75,974 1 414 14 ; 7i8 1 1 1 i 1 i 50,781 i 007 8,425 ' 20 132,723 ; 585 34(5 1 351 - 303 — 201 : — 02,722 11,542 104,585 523 Total . 1,070 101,750 1 ' 1,100 1 199,250 b,213 179,372 It will be seen from the summary of imports for October 18C4, that it exhibits a much larger ratio than the table of the preceding year does. ?'ron 1 England . California Oregon Paget i ' ■ -d . British Oolumhia Sandwich Islands Total 125,497 181,015 17,838 25,237 2,973 0,745 359,305 Up to the close of December 1864, there was an actual increase of imports from England, as compared with those ofl8G3, of ^112,773. EXPORTS OF GOLD. 109 iiusually cx- year. fje of Vessels I, timing the Exports of Gold from 1858 to 1864. 1868 'o. Toniingo f)7 02,722 20 11,542 85 104,585 1 523 13 179,372 for October I an the table 17 7 IS an actual "vvith those Shipiicrs 1858-18G0 1801 18fi2 1863 $ $ $ $ Wells, Fargo & Co. 2,459,719 1,.';40,.395 1,573,090 1,373,440 Macdonnlil & Co. . (includ. ill 1801 ) 1,207,050 335,379 — IJimk of British Co- linnbia — -_ 824,870 Bank of British North America . — — — 585,018 II. B. Co. and other shippers (approxi- mate calculation to the end of 18(52) . — — [349,000 — Hudson Bay Co. . — — — ~ 00,232 Other shippers — —" — 85,000 2,459,719 2,548,051 2,257,475 2,935,172 Recapitulatlo7i. Wells, Fargo & Co. (total shipments to 1803) Macdonald & Co. do. Bank of British Columbia, do. Bank of British North America, do. Hudson Bay Co. and other shippers, do. $ 0,740,054 1,543,035 824,870 585,018 500,000 10,200,183 This statement does not include the quantity of gold taken from the coiuitry in private hands. It is be- lieved by those qualified to form a correct opinion on the subject, that ^5,000,000 is a very moderate average of the value of the precious metal that passed through Victoria to foreign parts in the years indicated above, otherwise than in connection with hanks and shippimj offices. The gross sterling value exported to the end of 18G3 is thus brought up to about £3,000,000. This amount may seem insignificant to those who arc accustomed to examine the gold export tables of Cali- fornia and Australia. But when it is remembered that 110 VICTORIA AS A FKEE PORT. till 1862 there were not 3,000 men engaged in mining, and tliat since that period there have not been a larger number, the value presented, viewed in proportion to the number of miners at work in British Columbia, will bear most favourable comparison with the amount pro- duced from the countries just specified. Indeed, when the extraordinary difficulties are considered that for some time impeded access to the mines, the result must be regarded as splendid, and furnishing strong inducements to men of capital and enterprise to follow in the steps of those hardy- pioneers who have so successfully proved the richness of the country. It is little more than three years since the first package of European merchandise was exported from this place to American States, on the coast. Till within the past year our stocks of goods were not assorted and selected so carefully with a view to the opening of trade with foreign neighbours, as they ought to have been. We have had several commission agents in Victoria, receiving consign- ments from the home market, but as yet have not been favoured with the presence of moi-e than two or three real mercantile establishments of any consideration, and even these larger firms have not hitherto directed that energy to the development of trade with foreign countries on the coast, which the magnificent encouragements bursting upon us would justify. But notwithstanding the meagre extent and variety of goods we have exposed suitable for the markets of the Pacific, and the Hmited amount of capital, mercantile talent, and enterprise we have brought to bear, buyers from Eus- sian America, Oregon, California, the Sandwich Islands, and Mexico, are waking up to the incalculable advantages afforded them by our geographical position, and free- dom from the inconveniences of bonded warehouses and Customs' duties. TRADE WITH SITKA AND MEXICO. Ill mining, and n a larger oportion to umbia, will mount pro- d, when the •r some time be regarded J to men of those hardy I richness of irst packnge his place to le past year selected so mill foreign "e have had ng consign- e not been T three 7'eal |n, and even that energy tries on the Its bursting tl variety of rkets of the |ntile talent, from Eus- Ich Islands, I advantages and free- houses and I ] Advices from Vancouver Island, dated October 1864, inform us of the merchants of Sitka having opened large negotiations with Victoria : The brig * Shekeloff,' Captain Hanson, arrived yesterday morning from Sitka. . . . The brig belongs to the Russo- American Fur-trading Company, and has come for a cargo of assorted merchandise, having been attracted hither by the low rates at which goods can be purchased in this market. Another vessel (a steamer), belonging to the same company, is expected to arrive here in a few days from the same station, on a similar errand. The supercargo is a gentleman who occupies a position equivalent to that of a chief factor in the Hudson's Bay Company. Hitherto the bulk of the trade with Sitka has been enjoyed by San Francisco and the free city of Hamburg. From the latter port a vessel freighted with goods for the Russo- American Company is sent out each year, and San Francisco vessels, seeking cargoes of ice, have carried forward to Sitka cargoes of general merchandise. The present diversion in favour of Victoria will prove, we think, instrumental in opening Sitka to our commerce, and eventually securing us the whole of that important trade. "With Washington Territory, Oregon, California, and Mexico in the south, and British Columbia and Sitka in the north, knocking at our doors for goods, there would seem to be a bright future in store for our city. The * Shekeloff' made the run down in eight days , No effort has as yet been made to acquaint our Mexican neighbours with the inducements which our market offers. About twelve vessels annually arrived at Guaymas, in Sonora, laden with goods from England. Acapulco, Mazatlan, and Manzanillo also receive English shipments direct. Subsequent pages, however, will demonstrate that an immense saving of interest upon outlay is effected, and that orders for British goods are most expeditiously fulfilled by being sent to Victoria. At length this valuable com- mercial secret is dawning on merchants in Mexico. A few months since a large buyer from that country paid a visit to 112 VICTORIA AS A FREE TORT. Victoria, and selected the first parcel of <,foods ever sent thither fnjm our port. His purchases amounted t()»^o(),0()0. It is in the power of any large Victoria mercantile firm who will employ agents, and distribute catalogues of their stocks in the new Empire, now, I trust, becoming rapidly consolidated imder its first sovereign, to build U[) a trade corresponding to that carried on by the great English houses in Hongkong. The fullotvlnf/ Table sets foiih Exports of Emjl'ish Goods, or American Goods exported after [mportation, hut all liable to Duty in American Ports, for the Six Months endln;/ December 1863. Tort of (lestinntion July $ 20,073 5,0(5!) 044 August $ 25,015 (5,804 1,727 340 September October Xovembei Decoiiilier San Francisco Fcirt Angolos (W.T.) Astoria New York . $ 1(5,(550 0,187 0;}7 28,112 8,0(53 4,208 $ 23,217 .'5,088 2,587 25,45(5 10,412 :;oi Toted for the Six Months. San Francisco l»ort Angelos (W.T.) Astoria . New York $ 1.^9,123 42,023 10,4(54 349 Grand total . . 191,950 The next table is submitted to show, for the satisfjiction of merchants in Great Britain, the description of goods sought for re-exportation from Victoria to the various parts mentioned above, and also how powerfid was the impulse received by our export trade during the past year. In 1863 the monthly exports averaged at the rate of ^400,000 per annum, and the following table for one month in 1864 exhibits a ratio of ^850,000 per annum, or more than double the ratio for the preceding year. KXPdUTS. 1 1 :] Is ever sent to^ao,0()(). ciiiitil(3 rinii :ues of their ling rapidly up ji tnulo Jilt Eiiglisli 'sh Goo(U, or lit all liahle nths endlni/ ovemlK'i r)r<'ciiil(('r ;!,217 .'5,5)88 2,587 i>r,,.i.-)(; 10,412 ~ satisfoctiou \n of goods phe various ful was tlio past year, the rate of ^le for one annum, or 3ar. jyporta from the Port of Vlcfor'ni^ V. I., to Finrhjn Purls (larln;j the month of October 18G4. TO SITKA. [Per favour of Messrs. Jauioii, CJreoii, and liliodes.] Canvas .... 7 pltps Whisky . . . ,3;5csks Sundries 3 pkgs "NVhiskv 10 csks Taper . 3 pkgs Ale . 20 cs Uved plaid . • 1 Pltg Whisky . 50 cs Terfumery . 2 cs Porter . LI csks Cheese . . 2cs Porter . .'{ cs ( )iliuen'8 stores . 3 cs Hams . 2 bdls Salad oil . 5 cs Grindstones . 10 Currants 1 cs lied wood planks 28 Copper . . 3 cs Carpets . . 2 bis Oilmen's stores . 24 cs Sundries 1 trunk Preserved meat . 10 cs Cruet stands . . 1 cs Salt 2 bhls Tar 10 bis Paint . 1 cask Pitch . 10 bis Ifed lead . G kgs Black varnish . 4 bis Nails . 40 kgs Bright varnisli 4 bis Sheet iron 2.") Ixlls Coal tar bis (""orrug. iron . . 1 cs Iron pots . 200 Gal. iron . 3 cs Copal varnish 1 gal Glassware 1 cs Soap 1 pkg Earthenware . . 1 crt Coal oil 1 cs Taeks, screws, Sea 1 cs Coal oil 1 tin Sardines . 2cs Lamp black . 1 cs Sieves . 1 cs Yellow ochre Ics I'aper hangings . 1 cs Man. rope ({ els Trunks and boots . Ocs Cord . 4 bdls Sherry . 23 qr. casks Man. rope 12 els Sherry . . 40 cs Wire rope . Ocl Port . . 10 cs Axes . Ocs Claret . . 10 cs Fire bricks . . 500 Claret . . 5 cs Iron 20 bars Champagne . 13 cs Iron 10 bdls Hollands . 33 cs Lead . 1 roll Cognac . . 20cs ! Lamps . . 1 csk Ihuu 3 pkgs Lamps . . 1 cs Paun . 50cs : Chemicals 1 cs Whisky 12 csks Oil and tui-pentine . . 2C3 114 VICTOniA AS A FRKK POUT. n.alk 1 c^c riiampagno . . 4 P8 (imi Hints . . . . I cs Siilail oil . .') cs Stoves , . 1 cs Sundries . 1 en Lamps , . 1 cs Arrow root . . Ics Tobjicoo , 14 pkps Pickles . . . . . 2cs Fijrs, &c. . a C8 Sngo . 2 C9 Axes 11 bxs Port(!r . . . . . 2 cskfl rioiigh . 1 Cheoso . . 2cs Soap 40 bxs nin (green) . . 102 CS Soap 4-2 bxs Tobacco . . .*{ cs Hoots and shoes . 'M cs Pepper . . 2 bgfl Pepper . 2 csks Iron pots . 70 Gluo . . 1 bag Kettles . . 2 doz Jars . ] cs Cofl'eo machine 1 Paper . . 1 roll Stove . . . . 1 Paper . 1 parcel Iron kettles . . 4 doz Stationery . . 1 box Sliovels and spades . 4 doz Bunting? 1 ])arcel Forks . . . . 2 Potatoes 8.') bfrs Lanthoms . 2C8 Onions . . T) bgs Limtliorns . 1 csk Prunes . 14 bxs Lamps . . . , . 1 cs Nuts . . 8 bgs Stationery . 1 C8 IMne apples . Ics Stationery 1 parcel Su^rar . 2 k'/s Flour . . . . . Obga Jiitters . 1 cs Boots . . 19 cs Chairs . 1 doz Tumblers . 1 csk Capers . 1 cs I'aint . . 7 tins Chocolate 2cs Bolting . . 1 roll Alo 1 csk Iron bars Porter . 1 csk Cir. saws . Ibx Butts . 132 Perfumery . . 1 cs Cheese . Ipkg Coal . 97i tons Bricks . . 8M Com. bricks . . ' 2 M ShoriT . 89 csks Dry goods . 1 cs Whisky • 15 qr. csks Blue . 1 parcel Whisky • 49 qr, csks Total value . . ,$27,071 0^ > TO SANDWK 3H ISLANDS. Coal .... 108 tons Spirits . . 22qr.cks Iron tanks .... 8 Do. 14 pkgs Porter and ale, 117 csks 10 hhds Champagne . bskts and 201 cs Wines . . Ocs Cider 20 cs Brandy . . 1 cs Svrup . . . . 10 cs Bitters . . r cs 1 hhd I EXPORTS. 115 1 4 OS 'A CH 1 CH 1 CS '2 a 2cs 2 csks 'J ca 1(52 cfl .Tea 2hgs 70 2 doz 1 1 4 (loz 4 doz 2 2 03 1 csk 1 ca 1 cs parcel (5 h<ra 1$) ca 1 oak 7 tins 1 roll bara Ibx 1 cs 97^ tons 2M 1 ca 1 parcel 22 qr. cks 14 pkgs G bskts . Ocs . 1 08 " CS 1 hhd Stocl rotatoea . . . J)8 bn^s Mcnliandise . . . U bnlfs Dry >,'0()dH and inorchandi.io . .'W cs lUankets . . . 10 bales Stationery . , . . 1 cs Iron . . 220 bars, 71 bdls Total value TO C.VLrFOHNIA. [Compiled from the books of the United States Consulate.] DS'.s ( His lObblsand 10 cs Mi.scuit.s • • • . 2 cs 1 1 inns . • • • 2.') bids I'ig iron • • • 10 tons • t ^17,115 00 Skins, IfJO marten . 1 )ry poods, cs . Wool, hides, and skins . Cranberries, 114 pk I\link skins, 77(5; mar- tens, 202 . Hope, 1 bale ; mirrors, pins, comforters . Skins, marten, mink, and Heaver Di'cr wkins, bales Yams, 50 baskets; melon seeds, 3 do. Total value Assorted mercliandiso Sugar, 12,0(50 ll)s. . Total value » 417 00 2020 55 204 14 1102 00 1400 10 070 53 7040 35 112 GO 38 40 lluUock hides, 10; calf hds, 7; deer skins, 5 bales .... Shirts and beaver hats, 1 cs . Skins, marten, 153 mink, 222 . Polished sliells, 1 cs Japant'se cabint't, 1 (Jrei'n hides, 80 Fish, 12hfbbls . ^15,090 18 TO OREGOX if 5111 80 1134 24 Pig iron, 2 tons . ^0,388 04 TO WASHINGTON TEURITORY. Iron boiler plates and rivets Iron .... Sacks .... Ale and porter, 2 cs Hardware and castings . Bricks, 15 M . Am. Brandy, 2 bbis and 4 cs . Gin .... Total value 270 29 28 02 30 00 32 25 151 91 105 00 Iron castings . Sugar . Iron, sugar, and grind stone fixtures Castings, 1001 lbs. Iron bars, 98 . English merchandise (irooeries, 8 pkgs . English hardware . 172 38 I Shingles, 11,000 . ^3,(580 07 1 2 140 38 $ 111 51 303 50 (530 20 100 00 45 00 127 50 41 90 92 00 48 40 155 40 30 70 87 38 350 90 1770 15 117 13 129 (50 57 00 IIG VICTORIA AS A FRKK ['OUT. $ To Sitka .... 27,0.71 95 To Siindwicli Isknds . 17,115 00 To Caliibrnia i5,(;oo 18 To OvefTon .... (i,;5S8 04 To "NVnHhinfrton Tenitury . iVi'-^O 07 fnaiicl total $70,r,f<r, S4 This sum is exclusive of large exports to IJiitish Columbia. For the quarter ending June 18G4, goods were sent from Victoria to Xew Westminster to the value of /S'G00,535 lie. Were British capitalists alive to the commanding geo- graphical position of Victoria as a free port in relation to the nein:liboiirinui; Coast of Western America on the one side of the Pacilic and to China and Japan on the other, I venture to believe that they could, in a short period, render this city a worthy rival of San Francisco. Persons accustc nied t(3 judge by the present infancy of Victoria will probably be disposed to smile at so bold an assertion. But it will not surprise those who liave given attention to principles affecting the growth of commercial centres should this prediction be accomplished within the present generation. There are many articles, it is well known, in which the United States cannot compete successfully with England, in consequence of the higher price of labour and other circumstances in the former country. Large and suitable assortments of such goods stored in great warehouses at Victoria would secure a ready sale to wholesale and retail dealers in Washington territory, Oregon, California, and the various ports on the Mexican seaboard. The only liouses established hitherto among us, capable of carrying on business on the extensive scale these remarks propose, are the Hudson's Bay Company, and ])erhaps two others. This end cannot be achieved by mere ITS CAPABILITIES. 11- 95 00 18 04 (57 S4 Columbia. seMit from ^^600,535 idiiig geo- in relation ica on the pan on the in a sliort Francisco. infancy of so bold an liave given ommercial ^vithin the which the II England, land other id suitable chouses at and retail )rnia, and IS, capable lale these )any, and Id by mere commission agents, who have little interest in furnishing the class of mercliandise precisely suitable to foreign markets south of Vancouver Island ; their chief concern being to make storage and commission out of consign- ments. Large quantities of goods sent for sale on com- mission, but assorted in England without judgment, are here, as in other foreign parts, often sacrificed at auction. There are, however, ^)n:i>ission firms in Victoria, not a fev/, who might be depended upon for advising their Englisli correspondents conscientiously, as to the sort of i>;oods that would be salable. But the houses required for caiiying out the high com- mercial enterprise now advocated ought to be of a primary character. Their stocks should be purchased direct from British }iianufacturershy iniyers Avho possess a thoroujxh knowledge of the wants of the markets on the coast. When these establishments are prepared to com- mence operations, let them be inaugurated by exten- sive trade sales duly advertised beforehand throughout the countries stretching soutliward. Agents, as already suggested, should be appointed to travel through the j)rin(;ipal centres in those countries, and, in due course, vast and lucrative custom is certain to be attracted. I'he results at first miglit be comparatively slow, l)ut in the end they would satisfy the most ambitious and sanguine wishes. The grounds on whicli these statements rest have only to be stated to meet witli acceptance. Many traders in the places just mentioned are obliged to have supplies of sucli Englisli manufactures as cotton and woollen fabrics, Jiardwarc, spirits, ales, <!vc. Eiench articles, too numerous to specify, are also in requisition by them. Their orders are mostly sent to agents in New York, as they are not themselves in general sufficiently kn<:»wn in Europe to be 118 VICTOKIA AS A FREE FORT. able to fonn a connection in that quarter. Tliis indirect nietliod of importation necessitates an allowance of profit or commission to New York houses with expense attending wliarfage, drayage, and storage in that city. To these chartfcs must be added the cost of extra freidit in trans-sliipment from New York to San Franciso or some other point on tlie Pacific. Mucli tlie greater part of these items merchants who can import direct from Euroi)e are able to save. But it cau be shown that there are costs and inconveniences more embarrassing still upon even direct shipments from England to San Francisco, for example, which would be immediately avoided by buyers in that city transferring their purchases of Britisli and French merchandise to the great wholesale Avare- houses tliat are beint^ called into existence in Victoria. Tlie mercliants of San Francisco that may be in a position to obtain wares direct from Europe are compelled when getting shipments to order larger supplies tlian are needed to meet present demands. Packages not required for instant use must lie in bond to escape the immediate payment of customs' duties upon them. Besides the expense of bonded storage annoyance is sustained from free access to tlie goods being denied while in bond. There is yet a worse feature of the case. According to existing customs' regulations in California, duty must he paid upon all (joods in bond within three months of their being deposited in the bonded icarehouse, whether they be tal'en out or not. Now consider the incalculable loss thus suffered. The average rate of interest on money in California and adjacent countries ranges from one and ii half to two and a half per cent per in 07ith. Should a merchant under these circumstances have certain small orders to execute — say to the extent of one third of a heavy package of British or French articles— he can only meet these orders by DEPOT FOR EUROPKAN GOODS. 110 is indirect 3 of profit L expense that city. Ta freight ranciso or eater part irect from that there 5 still upon Francisco, voided l)y of Britisli sale "Nvare- ictoria. 1 a position 3lled when are needed for instant )ayment of xpense of access to is yet a g customs' ^ all goods ited in the wt. Now Ifornia and two and a Inder these pcute — say of British lorders by paying duty on the entire package so as to relieve it from bond. Then it may be months before the remainder of that package is disposed of So a still longer period may elapse before the sale of all his imported stocks be effected, upon which duty has to be paid three months subsequently to their being conveyed from the ship to the bonded store. While the duty-paid goods are unsold he loses at the very least tlie amount of interest which the sum laid out in customs' duties would have brouirht him. But in yet another way does the Californian merchant work at a disadvantage in importing direct from England on the supposition of a liritish free port being at hand to supply him with goods in broken or unbroken packages as he may desire. Since exporters in England have suffered so mischievously from tlie fluctuations of the markets in gold countries within the last fourteen years, large advances in most cases, have to be made upon the invoice before goods are shipped. A great part of the goods thus covered may lie upon the hands of the California importer unremunerative, for many months after arrival, and may occasionally have to be sold at a loss owing to a l)eriod of glut in the market. Could the importer devise some expedient by whicli he might profitably employ the capital he must forfeit the use of in this manner during the interval between his sending orders to England and realising returns upon the stock imported, he surely would gratefully avail himself of such an advantage. That expedient is gained by a large British emporium being brought so near that his orders could be executed three weeks after being despatched, instead of as at present his patience being tried by a delay of eight or ten months from date of order to Europe. Baying in Victoria^ he li'oidd not require to import a heavier stock than his custom immediatebj demanded ; he would save the time of 120 VICTORIA AS A FllEK TORT. a tedious voyage round the Horn; he would escape the restrictions and expense of the bonded warehouse ; he would, likewise save the interest now lost to him on goods while undisposed of. What merclmnt on the American side of the boundary contiguous to us would not rejoice in the advantage lield out by such an important commercial centre as Victoria mio-jit be made "with an intelli<>'ent employment of British capital and enterprise ? But it may be objected : ' If Californian merchants can ill afford to lose heavy interest on invoice advances and customs' duties entailed upon them by the existing condi- tion of things, how should English capitalists afford to hold immense stocks, awaiting purchase for an indefinite period in Victoria ? They too would be losers to the extent of, at least, interest on the value of their goods while unsold.' True : but, by supposition, the firms being gradually originated on the present theory are composed of Biitish shareholders, and the whole secret of their being able to carry on such a business as has been alluded to, consists simply in the difference between 5 jier cent per annum, the average rate of interest in England, and 1^ or 2i per cent per month, which money is worth in gold-producing countries on the Xorth Pacific. So that such companies as have been nanwd could better afford to auKiit returns for a twelvemonth, than could the American or other merchant icorkimj with Californian capital to lie out of his money for three months. There is unquestionable foundation for the conviction that com- panies embarking in the investment I have described would, in half a dozen years, find it yield immense divi- dends. A paid up capital to each company of 200,000/. would be ample to start with. When the colonies of Vancouver Island and British Columbia shall have awakened in England the attention to which they are I HIGH TARIFF IX SAX FRAXCISCO. 121 iscape the he would jods while ricaii side rejoice in )mmereial iutellii>"eut ihants can ances and ing condi- iid to hold lite period extent of, le unsold.' gradually of Biitisli )eing able Uuded to, 2:)er cent England, money is 1 Pacilic. idd better could the Ufornian There hat coni- descril)ed use divi- t^00,000/. Ionics of all have they are justly entitled, many such large mercantile partncrshi[)s will be established in Victoria. In reference to the beneficial effect upon the trade of Victoria of the increasing Customs' restrictions in San Fran- cisco, a French newspaper, ' L'Echo du Pacific,' of October 30, 1861, remarks as follows : — Heretofore goods might remain in bond three years without paying duties ; now the term is restricted to three months, and as consignees are not always disposed to pay the large amount of duties they would he called upon to advance, the above rest riciive measure vnll have the effect of throiviuf/ this business into the hands of parties in some other place where the lau's are more liberal. Commerce has neither countiy nor affections ; all it wants is freedom. If that is taken from it in one place, it will seek it in another. For this reason it U'ould appear that Victoria, a free port, luill profit by ivhat San Francisco iviU lose, as the shipper ivill find there the advantarjes which are refused to him here, and there {Victoria) will be the depot of the Pacific Coast. There are few countries ofiering such fticilities in the matter of return cargoes as Vancouver Island does. Statistics of our resources, to be given later on, will show how valuable are the timber and fish with which our forests and rivers respectively abound, for this purpose. Large commercial firms projecting those grand enter- prises, for the organisation of which their situation in Victoria would be favourable, should have; sawmills aiuT fi>^heries as complementary auxiliaries in the expansion of their business. Our erect and gigantic pines, growing in both the>e coh)nies in exhau-tless profusion, enables a mercantile company to build its own ships cheaply.* Again, tl.e * XotAvitluslanding- tlio high price of skilled labour iu these places, I niii inlovmed by au experienced resident .shipbuilder tluit vessels can be buill in llie ishmd for one tliird less than in I'lnjjland, from the ine.\p('nsi\eness of building materials. 122 VICTORIA AS A FREE PORT. demand for timber in China advances at a marvellous rate, being required for the erection of houses, repairing and building of steamers and sailing vessels. The extent to which the Yangtse and Amoor Rivers and the Chinese coast generally are navigated, and the promise given of the magnitude -svhich trade is destined to reach in that direc- tion, would seem incredible to one unacquainted with the subject. The liavoc caused periodically to shipping by the typhoon calls for a steady supply of spars. The influx of Europeans to cities on the coast and in the inte- rior of China occasions the extensive building of new dwellings, and creates an increasing market for the con- sumption of sawn timber. The Chinese themselves nuiy be supposed to be becoming assimilated, however slowly, to European habits of living. From this cause also will trade receive a vigorous impulse. When an article of European or American produ(;tion is favourably introduced in China, the social and imitative character of the people secures for it an augmenting and endless popularity. This is rendered evident by refer- ence to the statistics of the two exports of flour and lumber (timber) sent from San Francisco. Not to speak of the latter article, the Chinese (apart from European residents in China) having acquired a taste for the former, the imagination is overwliehned in attempting to conceive liow immense will be the trade between the opposite coasts of the Pacific, in the future years, from the export of flour alone, to meet the wants of four hundred mil- lions. Flour (bnrrcls) . Lumber (feet) 1801 18(12 18(;3 10,524 8Uf<,082 21,451 2,050,100 50,055 2,700,7;]:? \ I FACILITIES FOR RETURN CARGOES. 123 jlloiis rate, liring and extent to inese coast en of the that clirec- I with the ipping by [irs. The II the inte- g of new r the con- delves may 'cr sloAvly, e also will prodiu^tion [1 imitative aiting and by refer- lour and to speak European le former, conceive opposite le export dred mil- L),or,r) San Francisco houses liave an undoubted advantage over us in the article of flour as an export, and in this we can never compete with them. But the vessels wliich convey lumber from American consigners to China are obliged to come up in ballast from San Francisco to load in Puget Sound — a distance of 800 miles, unless they happen to ])rocure freight for Vic'toria. This involves a great deal of trouble and outlay to be sustained for the sole object of loading at the sawmills. No such difficulty would have to be borne by the Victoria exporter of linnber, for his cargo is close at hand. It will be perceived therefore that a large Victoria liouse, having the important accessory referred to, Avould gain on the freight, the vessel having been built by themselves, and being their own property. They would gain on the cargo, which would in this case be shipped at their own mills. A further gain would accrue on the supposition of the return cargo, consisting of silk, rice, preserves, &c., being paid for in the way of barter. The vessel, liaving thus changed one cargo for another in China, could then proceed to England and bring out to Vancouver Island European goods adapted for this market. Similar advantages will be eventually derived from our exports in opening up a trade with Japan* when that * A letter from Japan to the i\"e?/; York Journal of Vummerco says: — * The trade between England and Japan has doubled in the first six niontli.s of the year 1863 compared with the year 1802, despite all the embarrass- ments suffered ; the future prospect is considered exceedinghy hopeful. Tlio return of trade at the single port of Kanagawa for the year gives an aggre- gate of seventy-four foreign arrivals against thirty-three one year ago, and a tonnage of 25,000 instead of 15,000. Tlie value of goods imported in the same time at Kanagawa exceeds ^500,000. Then it should be observed that the Japanese readily ascertain what commodities are most in demand for export, and at once address themselves to the work of producing them. Tlie growth of silk, for example, so highly prized on account of its fine quality, especially when the supplies from Italy and France are partially cut 124 VICTORIA AS A FREK PORT. country sliall have somewhat relaxed its traditional exclu- sivencss. Even if our cargoes of timber and fish were not salable in Japan at present, it would amply repay a vessel, could she not seciu'e a freight thither from China, to run up and load for England. The rich and delicate manufactures of Japnn would all find a ready sale in the parent country. Besides boxes of camphor- wood, baskets of rattan, sets of drawers, jewelry casket*, tea and coffee services, vases, and eveiy sort of lacquered work, we have occasional ar- livals on our coast, from that comparatively sealed country, of isinglass, rice, sweet potatoes, peas, leaf tobacco, and rapesced oil. The last named of those articles is in general use in Paris for lamps. Many other products will yet be forthcoming from Japan, which merchants in Vic- toria with the aj)pliances proposed may obtain for ship- ment to Europe on favom-able terms, so that return cargoes of British and French goods may be advantageously brought to Victoria for wholesale export. Turning from China and Japan, where our salmon, cod, halibut, and smelt might also be introduced, Mexico and the other Eoman Catholic countries, as far as Cape Horn, furnish an inviting market for both our lumber and fish. Australia and JS^ew Zealand are in the same i)osi- tion. All these cc ui tries can be supplied more reasonably and expeditiously with tlie two articles of exports under consideration from us than from the Atlantic. As for Australia, it is well known that a premium has long been offered by the Government to anyone who oiV, has yielded a suvplus for export from Japan during the pr''=ont season to the valiH; of nearly ^.oOOjOOO/. 8terlin;2-. So of cotton. In 1802 the crop yieldi'd Jiothiiig for export, but this year's contribution to the nninuractiireris of iMu-opi^ alrendy aniniints to about 0,000 bales. The f :ct to be noticed is that, notwithstanding the declared hostility of the Japanese Govenmient to foreign traffic or intercourse, the people at large eagerly avail tlieniselves of the opportunity to profit by the excliange of merchandise for gold.' 1 : KETURN CAKCJOES. 125 onal exclii- ih were not ay a vessel, I, to run up anufactures nt country, rattan, sets /ices, vases, casional ar- ed countiy, bacco, and ides is in •oducts will mts in Vie- in for sliip- urn cargoes xntageously mon, cod, exico and ape Horn, imber and same posi- •easonably orts under 31 niuni has j'one wlu) ?ont season to 18G2 the crop unnuriictiirors be noticed is overinncnt to tlioniselve.s of roia; should succeed in introducing a live salmon into the country ; and not until the mode of artificial spawning was discovered could imj)orted salmon exist there. At length, in May last year, the birth of the first salmon was announced.* New Zealand is not bountifully supplied with timber for building purposes, and cargoes of that material are being shipped from oui- neighboiu'hood to that colony. The commercial relations of Vancouver Island to the several countries enumerated, arising out of the diversity of their respective resources, are pointed out as illustra- tive of the numerous i'acilities aflbrded to estabHshments in Victoria lor return cargoes to intermediate destinations between this colony and England, and the consecpient opportunity of procuring goods for the supply of the market on the north-west coast on most favoui-able con- * Tlie following lines on this event appeared in an Anstnilian paper : — Auspicious great event To write an epigram on — Australia news baa sent About ber first-born salmon I Tbe earliest of his kind That Austral waters swam on, liet's hope be'U leave behind A mighty race of salmon. The digger, when he hears, The news expends a dram on— The stockman gives three cheers To hail the first-bom salmon. And I confess that I — This subject while I am on — Don't mean to keep it dry — Let's wet the little salmon. So now, here goes ! The toast We'll have a glass of * cham ' on : Long may Australia boast The plenty of her salmon ! 120 VICTORIA AS A FREE POUT. clitions. Firms saving on all sides, on the principle here set forth, must eventually compel buyers on the coast to replenish their stocks of European and, in part, Asiatic goods from their warehouses. Our wide-spread C()pi)er lodes, too, will, in course of time — like the Burra-Burra mines of Adelaide — without doubt furnish a valuable article of ex]:)ort to Great Britain, in the way of return cargo. The following remarks of the lute able correspondent of the ' Alta California,' published some years ago, exem- plify American sentiment in regard to the prospects of Victoria as a probable rival of the city of San Francisco : That England has great purposes to effect in this part of tlie world, is no doubt true ; that she has grand projects on foot, looking to a union of her North American Colonies, and tlie opening of a liighway from ocean to ocean, she does not seek to disguise. That these new settlements are yet to become com- petitors for the trade of the East, if not the corwiercial swjyi'e- niaqi of the Pacific, it were useless to deny. Entrepots are soon to spring up on these hitlierto undisturbed waters ; there will be shipyards and fisheries, and to these lands will a nume- rous people go to dwell and to mine beyond a peradventure. . . . But however we may regard the advent of England upon our shores, or whatever estimate we may set on the value of her possessions in this quarter, one thing is certain, we have now got to meet her on this side the globe as we have met her on the other; and encountering her enterprise and capital, her practical patient industry and persistence of purpose, dispute with her for the trade of the East and the empire of the seas. There are other circumstances that may be briefly stated here beAring on the prospects of Victoria as a free port. The augmenting population of Oregon and Washington territory multiplies the number of consumers of goods imported into those parts from our city. In 1850 the ITS UELATION TO ESQUIMALT. 127 riciple here I the coast )art, Asiatic Dad copper kirra-Burra a valuable y of return rresponclent ago, exeiii- )rospects of Francisco : 3 part of the jt'cts oil foot, lies, and the oes not seek become com- rcial sujyi'fi- ntrepots are aters ; there ill a nume- eradventure. nd upon our alue of her e have now met her on capital, her ose, dispute f the seas. be briefly |ia as a free ''asliington of goods 1850 the census shows the inhalVitants of Oregon to be lo,000, {uid of the adjacent territory to be oidy 1,200. Tliere are now between 80,000 and 1)0,000 in the former State, and 10,000 in Washington territory. When the iron-road via Utah is constructed, it is proposed to make a branch line from Walla-Walla to Seattle or Olympui on l*uget Sound. This lattei' section of railway, when formed, will convey the bulk of the })roduce to the ocean from the region through which it i)asses l)y the Straits of Fuca, except, perhaps, the crops raised on the banks of the Columbia and near tlie mouth of the Willamette rivei's. It is inconceivable how large a population these changes will bring ui)on the shores of the Sound, and how exten- sive the tide of commerce they will attract to Victoria. Another fact foretokening the prospective importance of that cit}' is, that it is but four miles distant from the capacious harbour of Esquimalt — the rendezvous of II. M, Pacific squadron. It was stated in the ' Times ' of Mru'ch 15, 18G0, that it was the intention of the Imperial Government to elevate that place into the naval depot for the Pacific. Nor could any selection be better. It is the only convenient British place of anchorage in that ocean, to which H.M. ships can repair to coal, refit, pro- vision, and concentrate for war. From this point our fleets can have a more complete command of that ocean, imd proceed more readily to any part of it, than if Hong- kong or Australia Avere headquarters. In the ' Times ' of June 25, 18G0, the argument in favour of Burrard Inlet, near New Westminster, as a naval depot, is eflfectually exploded by the letter of a correspondent : If all that is required for a naval station be so much water for so many ships to float and anchor in, and so many acres of land for docks in a wilderness, these essentials are obtainable in I'JS VKTOKIA AS A J'I{i;i. 1'0|{T. I^tirnird Iiil(>t. . . . Hut as the naval station placed in that locality involves the navij^ation of a portion of the StiaitH of l''iic'a, of the whole of Canal de Haro (under tlui j^miiih of the American batteries if San Juan be ^iven up), to<^»'ther with the <;rossing of the Gulf of (JeorjLjia, often a tempestuous sea, as well as the other waters which intervene between liunard Inlet and Ks(|uimalt and the ocean, all of which navij^'ation would be an addition to a voyaije long enouj^h already, and which would be avoided by leavinjjf the s(]uadron to rendezv )us at Ksimimalt where the ships now lie, most competent judges prefer Ivscjui- nialt for the headcjuarters of the sijuadron. Kscjuimalt is near the ocean, easily accessible by day and night, now that a light- house is placed at its eutrance. . . . liesides these; convenienc»\s, it possesses grf:tt fiuilities for fortifications ovi-r every other harbour in the I'acific Ocean. It could be made impregnabU; at less cost than any other harbour in these seas could be rendered partially secure ; and it is well situated for su[)plying ships to defend the entrance into the Straits of T'nca — a measure to the accomj)lishment of which 'Port 8an Juan,' situated on Vancouver Island, near the entrance, possesses important facili- ties in having a harbour three miles long, and capable of anchoring a fleet in safety. From this port one or two ships could blockade the entrance and make Fuca Straits a British lake, while Esquimalt is close at hand to afford supplies and all necessary assistance. ... At Victoria, the men-of-war get all they want. . . . Vancouver Island will be the point of attack, if an attack is made on one of these colonies by any hos- tile power, as it must be secured to make the Continent tenable if taken. So that if liurrard Inlet were made the naval station, it would involve this anomaly — that while the head-quarters were over there, the ships would always be stationed here. The naval station must be at Esquimalt. The question, moreover, has of late been oecupying the attention of the Admiralty as to the most eligible location for building a sanitarmm for the accommodation of in- valided naval men. Sydney, the Cape Colony, and other ])ositions, have been imder consideration for this object. Ihit vicii tcui ]>''<>1 rec( I weii^ 6i nava Th long quart lM{ni'Osi:i) SA\ITAI!IL'M. V2\) ig tlie :atioii )f ill- loth er )iect. \ ])\\t nono npjx'jir to conibiiic so ninny ndvantMU^cs ms iIk- vicinity of VicLoriti mikI I'^nuinKilt. Tlu* miidnt'ss of ilic temperature, the beauty of tlu; sei-nery, and the very low ))ro[)ortion of iiiortahty in the vessels on llie stalioii, are recoinniendatioiis of this locality which cannot fail to have weight with the Government. On this vital question, the o])ini()n of an ex[KM'ieiict'(l naval surgeon is decisive. Dr. Rattray, It.X., snys : — Thc5 lioHpital aecoiniiindiitioii on this station (tlio I*ucific) lias loll;,' betjii unsatisfactory; and Valp-iraiso, tlir fonner lit-ad- (juartcrs of tliu Pacilie tlcet, untl Callao, wcru tlio only ports to wliicli invalids nn\dit be sent for treat mt'iit, or sickly ships Ix; transferred to recruit the health of their crews. . . . The coii- veiiience of ample hospital Jiccoininodation at tlu; head-(|Ua,rters of the squadron, and on liritish soil, and In <i (•li'.ndlc if/n'rc SiiliLhi'ihj ts ansiirpttssetl o)i fha cnflre shitioit, in therefore evident. E.s(piinialt thus supplies a want long felt on this station. The unhoalthluess of the climate of China, and the sickness and mortality which usually prevail in the China fleet, wlu'ii contrasted with the great salubrity of Vancouver Island and tlu! fineness of its climate, make it a question of great imjiortanee whether ornot Esqnimalt — with its hospital acccMnmodaticm, its convenience as a naval harbour, and its ciunparativo proximity to China, with which communications both naval and mercantile, will soon be more frequent than at present — might not become the recruiting station and sanitarium for the China as well as for the Pacific squadron ; and whether the healthy climate of the Eastern Ocean of the North Pacific might not be made available to counteract the unhealthy influence of that of its western coast. The heavy sick-lists of ships stationed along the coast of China, the large percentage of invalids sent home, and the great mor- tality, are often unequalled, even on the once so sickly and still much dreaded coast of Africa. The following table will con- trast the large sick-lists of ships on that station with those of Esqnimalt. K 1 130 VICTORIA AS A FREE PORT. Khip. AvprnKO sick-list. A vorngc crew. PcrppntiiKc of sick. II.M.R. Nanliiu (50), Chiua Station, 1855- lHr)8 II.M.S.Topazo (51), Esqninialt, Vancou- ver Inland, 1800-18(31 .... 4l> 1^4 443 482 Dr. Eattray proceeds to show that out of an avcragc crew of 443 men, 39 (or 1 mil) died of dysentery, diar- rhcea, and periodic fevers ; 64 (or 1 in 7) were invahded ; and 187 (or 1 in 2}^) were sent to the hospital from tlie same causes. In all 290, or G5^ per cent of the entire crew, either lost tlieir lives or were disabled from malig- nant disease. Now, surely there is urgent need for de- vising means to reduce this mortality, and avoid much of this siiflfering. The ' ship ' hospital at Hongkong has many disadvantages. It is badly ventilated, and confines those who rcinain for treatment in the very focus and centre of an unhealthy climate, thereby increasing mor- tality, and retarding the cure of patients. By occasional visits to Vancouver Island, the efficiency of crews would be better preserved and sickness in a great degree pre- vented. This arrangement, Avlien fully carried out, will exercise a profitable influence on the trade of Victoria. i i 131 I an average iiiteiy, diar- i invalided ; al from tlie F the entire from malig- leed for de- avoid mucli nffkona; lias and confines y focus and casing mor- y occasional rews would degree pre- ed out, will Victoria. (^iiArTr:u v. Gi:XERAL RKSOURCKS OF VAXCOUVI'R ISLAM). Timuku: Exports of tliis Article — Profits roallsod on it — A d van t a ires over Canada and New Urnnswick — Timber more remunt.'i'ative to the ennnnon Carrier than Cold — Trade in Export of llailway Sleepers — Pricrs i)f Spars, Masts, &c. Coal: Mines at Nanaimo — Immense Cimsumption of Coal on the Coast — Chemical Comparison of Vancouver Island Coal with other Varieties— Imports of (.'oal to San Francisco — I'rices — Tliiclc- ncss of Seam — Conveniences for Loading — ^'ancouver Island I'ionpcr Coal- mining Company — Quantities sliipped from Xanaimo — IJeport of First Annual Meeting of Directors — Other Coal Companies, Corri;u : (^ueen Charlotte Island Mine — Inspection of a Vein— Want of IJritisli Capital to develop this Source of Wealth effectually. Maoxktic Iuon Oiu:— LiMKSTOxi: — Sandstoxe— BLrE Mauulk — Bluk Clay. Cold: First found in Queen Charlotte Island — Gold Stream — Cold discov(;red nt Sooke — General Character of the Region — 'Prospects' obtained — Mining 'Claims 'and 'Yields.' Fisheries: Herring — Iloolakan— Salmon — Trout — Sturgeon — Halibut — Haddock — Hock — Whales — W^xlrus — Foreign Markets to be Supplied. TIMBER. It is now universally admitted that Vtmcouver Island and British Columbia produce the best qualities of timbei" to l^e found in the world. The following table shows the principal vtirieties : — PoruLAR Names. The Douglas Pino or Oregon Red Pino Spruce Fir ..... Yellow ]'"ir Bal sam Fir Hemlock Spruce SciEXTiFic Names. Abies Douglassii. Abies Menzicsli. Abii's grandis. Abies balsamifera. Abies canadensis. 132 GENERAL RESOURCES OF VANCOUVER ISLAND. Wild Cherry Cerasiis mollis. White Pine or Weymouth Pino . . Pinus Strobus. Yellow Pine Pinus ponderosa. Cedar — the Oregon Cedar . . . Thuja gigantea. Yellow Cj'press Cupressus nutkatensis. Arbor Vita) Thuja plicata. Yew Taxus brevifolia. The Oak Quercua Garryana. The white, or broad-leaved Maple . . Acer macrophyllum. Vine-leaved Maple Acer circinatum. The Oregon Alder Alnus oregona. Oregon Dogwood ..... Cornus Nuttallii. Arbutus Ai'butus Menziesii. Of these the wood that lias chief economic vahie is the Douglas pine. This tree is in great demand for spars ; and for strength, lightness, elasticity, erectness, beauty of grain, and height, it cannot be surpassed. The bark at the base of the tree, and for some distance up, is often a foot thick. The colour of the wood, which depends usuahy upon its age and the situation where it is grown, is in general yellow, but sometimes reddish. A spar of this description, more than 200 feet high, is erected in Kew Gardens, London, and sections cut from a tree 309 feet long were sent to England for the Inter- national Exhibition of 1862. A careful examination was made of one of these sec- tions, to ascertain - the tree's age and rate of growth. From the result, which was published in the ' Gardener's Chronicle,' it appears that : The diameter is 6 feet, viz. : — 34 inches on one side, 38 on the other. Its rate of growth on the 34-inch side has been as follows : — The first 2 inches across were made in 7 years. „ second „ „ „ 9 „ „ third „ „ „ 12 „ „ fourth „ „ „ 19 „ » fifth „ „ „ 17 „ „ sixth „ „ „ ^3 ,, ,> seventh „ „ „ 16 „ f ND. ,s. ;isa. ca. tkatensis. )lia. yana. iyllum. ;uin. la. illii. iziesii. alue is the spars ; and ty of grain, ark at the )ften a foot ids usually rown, is in 2et high, is IS cut from the Inter- these sec- )f growth, ardener's I side, 38 on las been as TIMBER. rh( 3 eighth 2 inches across were made in 17 yer )f ninth )f » }> 14 » >» tenth » » t> 18 » }> eleventh }t >» if 24 » f} twelfth )t f> » 21 » }f thirteenth )} If » 24 » >} fourteenth » » » 24 » }> fifteenth » » » 31 }) )f sixteenth f) n 30 ft ff seventeenth }} » V 42 »> 133 Or 34 inches in semidiameter in 354 years. It is as well to remark that this British Cohimhian fir, although three centuries and a half old, and although for tlio last forty-two years it increased little more than 1-1 0th of an inch in diameter yearly, is perfectly sound to the heart. Foresters will understand the importance of this fact.* Little or nothing was known of tliis tree till about 37 years ago, Avhen it was brought into notice by the Horti- cultural Society, which was favoured with seeds from it by the eminent collector whose name it bears. The cul- tivation of it has been tittempted in Great Britain, where a congenial temperature gives encouragement to hope that it will succeed. Dr. Lindley informed the gentleman from whose w^ork the above particulars have been quoted, that he had had two planks of this wood, 20 feet long each, in one of the rooms of his house, where there was constantly a fire, since 1827, and that neither of them had warped or shrunk in the least since they had been placed there. Another important testimony to the high character of masts made of Douglas pine is derived form M. du Per- ron, a leading engineer of the French dockyard in Toulon. A comparison was instituted by him between the flexibility, resistance, and density of spars from Eiga and of those from this colony. * Mayne, p. 410. 134 GENERAL RESOURCES OP VANCOUVER ISLAND. The principal quality of these woods is a flexibility and a tenacity of fibre rarely met with in trees so aged ; they may be bent and twisted several times in a contrary direction without breaking. Several poles of the greatest length, having the end at the foot and the top of the tree cut off, were tried, compara- tively, with poles of the same dimensions, cut from a liiga spar of iirst class, and the following residts were found : — i\r.ix!muni (IcnToo of Loutliny Lefore rii]itiii'(! at tlio foot At the lioacl .... '!} Cliarf^o of niptiu'o (per contimotres) "| S([iiarc(l at the foot . . .J At the head Di'iisitj' of the wood at the foot of the tree .... Deusity at tlie head '} Viincouvcr Island. Riga Pine. Om 0-2o Oiu 028 010 022 010 022 2:!k to 21k 00 1(J 11 19 08 19 93 20 2.3 030 720 478 5.32 o57 0~ 020^ The experiments give a mean almost identical for the bending and Itrcahlufi of the two kinds of wood, while the density differs n(A(d>bj to the adi:anta{je of the Vancouver wood. The only question still undecided is that of durability. The masts and sjjars of Vancouver are woods rare and exceptional for dimensions and superior qualities, strength, liglituess, absence of knots and other grave vices. — Toulon, September 21, 18G(). As yet, there is only one firm in the island (Anderson and Co.) that has been engaged in the export of timber upon a scale commensurate with the importance of this trade and tlie inexhaustible nature of tliis department of our resources. With the neighbouring coast of the sister colony, Vancouver Island offers facilities for the establish- ment of nmnberless companies of tJiis character. The house referred to had been ])ractically conversant with the lucrative ntiture of the business for many years before , D. TIMBER EXrORTS. 135 lity and a ey may be m without the end at I, eonipara- i Ixiga spar Riga Pine. Cm 028 010 022 >lk 10 00 OS ?0 23 720 5:12 020 he bending [isity (lifers lity. The exceptional less, absence 21, 1800. Anderson of timber ce of tliis 'n'tment of the sister estublisli- ter. Tlie Irsant with lars before ; 1 building tlieir own saw-mills, having been accustomed to send profitable sliipments of timber from Puget Sound to various foreign ])orts. They only commenced operations at Barclay Sound in 18G1, and the extent to which they liave sup})lied vessels with retmii cargoes, plainly indicates liow ripe is the field for the introduction of vigorous competition. Comparative Statement of Ecrports of Lumber, i(-c.,from Alberni Mills, diirhif/ the years 18f)2 and 1863. Do.-cription 1SC2 l.so:J Iiicroat'e Sawn Lumber (Xo. of feet) . Spars ..... Suit Fisli (barrels) . Fish Oil „ . . . Skins and Furs (packages) 7,400,000 1)1)0 .",70 10:1 11 11,27:1.000 i,:)00 470 2:50 U.J .3,78:1,000 400 100 40 22 The shipments of lumber from Alberni, coastwise, amounted in lS(i:} to 1,000,000 feet, and were conveyed to Mctoria in the steamer ' Thames,' and schooners ' Alberni ' and ' Mey Merrilies ; ' the lirst making during the year live trips, the second eight, and the tliird one. T3esides supplying the French, Spanish, and Sardinian Government dockyards with s})ars, they fire doing a large trade in sawn lumber for building purposes. I notice among the destinations to wliich they have sent this freight, Callao, Honolulu, Sydney, London, Coquimbo, Adelaide, Victoria, Shanghai, Batavia, Lima, Melbourne, Hongkong, Otago, Valparaiso, Manilla, Italy, &c. One or tAVO other small firms carry on an increasing trade in lumber, but their exports are chiefly ci^astwise. Lumber received Cuasticise for Consumption in Victoria, Vancouver Island, during the year 18()3. 1,000,000 From Alberni Mills (Anderson it Co.) „ Cowiehan :Mill ( W. \\ Sayward) ,, Sooke Mill (Michael Muir) Total number of feet . 1,00(5,000 1(K),()00 2,700,000 13G GENERAL RESOURCES OF VANCOUVER ISLAND. A coii.sidcrable number of saw-inills liave been at work in rii<i^et S(nnRl for ten or fii'teen years, and in every in- stance in wliieli ])roper management lias been observed tlie })i'()pi'ietors have, in course of time, realised princely fortunes. The Fort Gamble and Utsalady companies started with but little capital, and the property of the one is said to be now over ,8'1,000,0()(). A partner of the other I know personally, and can testify that the returns of his firm have been very great. One of these firms purchased a vessel, second-hand, some time ago, capable of containing a million feet of lumber, and I am informed that she cleared herself in one trip. Shippers have assured me that 100 per cent has often been realised by them upon cargoes to China. The captain of a British vessel once stated in my hearing that, having discharged his freight from Eng- land in Victoria, he loaded his ship with sawn lumber in the vicinity of the colony at a cost of from 21. 1.9. to '11. 106\ per 1,000 feet, and sold it in Foochow, after a voyage of two months, at from 13/. \ls. lOt/. to 14/. Xos.^d. per 1,000 feet. Merchants devoted to the knnber trade in the Pacific need be at no loss in acquiring an exact knowledge of the markets in that ocean. They have but to ascertain the proportion of vessels loading at the various saw-mills, bound for given destinations. Spars from the North- American shores of the Pacific will always command a high price in Spain, France, and England,* and building- lumber need not fail of being readily and profitably dis- })osed of in Australia, New Zealand, South America, China, and eventually Japan. The minds of immigrants hitherto attracted to the colony have been so absorbed in the pursuit of gold, and * It is probable that iron masts will now become more general for ocean steamers, but spars will continue to be required for sailing vessels. \ i N'D. NEW BRUNSWICK AND CANADA. 137 3n at woik 1 every in- 1 observed id princely aies started one is said lier I know s firm have 3d a vessel, ntaining a she cleared e that 100 on cargoes :e stated in from Eng- i lumber in 1 2/. l.s. to w, after a 4/. VdsAd. le Pacific ;dge of the ;ertain the saw-mills, le North- ommand a building- Itably dis- ica, China, ed to the gold, and 3ral for ocean lels. the merchants of Vancouver Island and British Columbia have directed their attention so exclusively to the business of general importation, that the valuable article of export with which these remarks are concerned has been signally lost sight of. Still, unless wealthy and enterprising com- panies enter briskly into this sort of exportation, it is hardly necessary to say that the balance of trade will be increasingly against the colony. Our advantages for going largely into the linnber trade, and especially into certain kinds of ship-building, are far beyond those by which New Brunswick is distinguished. Yet from timber, almost its sole exported product, that l)rovince has grown and flourished ; so that now it con- tains a population of 300,000 directly or indirectly sus- tained by the lumber traffic. How much more brilliant a career is open to Vancouver Island — of whose manifold resources Ihis is but one — provided those latent elements that are capable of enriching the colony are not suffered to remain unproductive ? In Canada, logs and spars — exhausted in most instances near the banks of the St. Laurence — have to be rafted hundreds of miles down rivei's and lakes, and through canals, before they can be brought to ports for shipment to distant countries. In New Brunswick, too, these products have to be rafted down the St. John, Miramichi, and other rivers. Then, from the thinning process to which forests in these Atlan- tic colonies have been subjected, the timber is obliged to be felled in winter, and hauled long distances to streams, whence it is floated to its final place of shipment on the bretiking up of the ice in Spring. In the colonies of which I write, hundreds of spots might be selected where, for years to come, the necessity of rafting would be superseded, the timber being found near the water's edge and close to the ocean. This con- 138 OEXERAL RESOURCES OF VANCOUVER ISLAND. sidcration more tlian counterbalances the liiglier rate of "wjiges i)aid on tlie Paciiic as compared with the Atknitic coast. Tliis is a branch of trade, at least in Vancouver Island, tliat requires not to pass tlirough the early stages of infancy and childhood, but may with safety be usliered at once into full-grown stature ; and a large concern engaged in it would secure more prosperity than a small one. The reasons are obvious. Large associated capital coidd at present command extensive tracts of forest, convenient to l)oints suitable for transportation. Such liouses could avail tliemselves of the most efficient machinery for economizing labour. Their position would enable them to watch the markets surrounding the Pacific, to correspond witli every timber-producing region, and learn the character and destination of every shipment; also to obtain from foreign markets reports of consumption, stock in hand, and arrivals. Allusion has already been made to the saving to owners of saw-mills arising from the building their own ships. Timber being so bulky, employs a great amount of tonnage in transportation. In this respect it differs from gold, which is comparatively unremunerative to the common carrier. To transport the precious metal as freiglit may add 2 or 3 per cent, to its value. To carry timber a similar distance might enhance it 100 or 200 per cent, or even more The difference between its value in Van- couver Island and in the market to which it is sent is the cost and profit of carrying or frei</ht. An article so bulky, and yet in such great demand, will create a commerce of itself, which gold cannot do. The value of a dozen large cargoes of timber could in gold dust be conveyed in a single cart Moreover, whenever the demand for timber ; I I sD. * RAILWAY SLEEPKKS.' 130 cr rate oi' le Atlantic rcr Island, stages of ushered at rn engaged 1 one. The 1 could at ivenient to could avail ionomizing watch the pond with ! character )btain from [i in hand, to owners 3wn ships, of tomijigc L"om gold, le common eiglit may timber a per cent, le in Van- sent is the so bidky, nimerce of ozen large eyed in a for timber a ■ ill tlie Chinese and other markets shall grow to such a degree that the freight of that commodity alone will jiay to keep vessels solely engaged in the trade, we shall tlien be able to obtain return cargoes from Asia at freight so clieap that we shall be able to compete with San Fran- cisco for the supply of even Cliinese goods to the entire Avest coast of the American continent. San Francisco has no article of export — not excepting flom- — so bulky that slie can procure, in return for it, the conmiercial advan- tages just specified. An excellent opening exists also for an export trade in * 'railway sleepers' to different parts. It would be dillicult to menti<^n a part of the world touched by civilization in Avhich the ' locomotive ' is not in use. India, Australia, the United States, Mexico, Brazil, and several of the South American republics — not to speak of European countries — vie with each other in extending lines of railway. The day cannot be far distant when China and Japan will, in this respect, follow in the march of advanced nations. I know not where the railway companies in Asia, the ()])p()site shores of the Pacific, and in oiu' colonies of the southern hemisphere, could go to procure this i)art of rail- way appliance on more fjivourable terms than Vancouver Island. Lai'ge quantities of 'sleepers' now imported to India are chiefly sent from England, after having been brought from Canada or the Baltic. To render them proof against the destructive action of a torrid sun, they are satu- rated with a preparation of creasote — a sid3stance which hap|)ens to be largely inherent in the pines of our island. TJie following list of spars, masts, &c., with tlie prices attached, has been prepared expressly for my use, and I think it not unlikely tliat it may be found serviceable to tliose hiterested in this subject : — 140 GENERAL RESOURCES OP VANCOUVER ISLAND. i Prices of Masts and Spars. Diameter taken ^ from the butt in round or four-square spars ; diameter taken at the partners in eijjfht-sided masts and spars. Partners in eight-sided masts and spars are supposed to be I from butt. Bound Spars. 4, 5, & inches diamotor at 5 cents per running foot 7, 8, & „ 8 „ „ » 1^ )» » » !•' >» » n ^^ »» » ft 1' » » 10 & n 12 18 U Jbiti'-s^ttm'efZ <o </te Partners. 15 inches diameter at 22 cents per running foot 10 ft 20 » » 17 M 33 M » 18 » 88 » )> 10 » 43 if »» 20 » 48 » >» 21 » 52 » >» 22 » 57 M » 23 >» 02 >» » 24 » 04 » » Four-squared to the partners, or eight-squared the whole length if required, at an additional charge of 10 per cent on the prices below : — 25 inches diameter at 71 cents per running foot 20 „ 74 » 27 „ 81 » 28 „ 85 M 29 „ 05 » 30 „ 1.05 » 31 „ 1.14 » 32 „ 1.23 » 33 „ 1.33 » 34 „ 1.42 >» 35 „ 1.54 »» 30 „ 1.00 )> 4 .AND. COAL. 141 to the above schedule. Ai four-square d masts and supposed to foot f foot the whole cent ou the ■ foot And any larger sizes in proportioi addition of 10 per cunt, to the above prices for eij^ht-sided niUHts fruin 24 inches diameter and upwards. All tiie above spars to be delivered alongside the vessel. Length of spars, three to five feet for each inch in diameter at the partners, or longer if ^ required. Ship and deck plank of Piigot Sound fir, commonly cnllod Douprlas pim-, of the following dimonMions : — 3,3^,4, 4^, 5, 5J inchuH and upward in thickness; (J, 7, S, 0, 10, 11 inch^>s and upward in width; '2'> to 70 feet in length ; not to exceed Mij feet average, at $15 per M* superiiuiul feet. Square timber 10 to 14 inches at)^14 per M feet" 15 „ 18 „ ^10 „ J- 25 to 80 feot Ion;;. ft 10 „ 22 ^20 1 r not to average more than 35 feet in length. Ship beams, 17 by 17^ inches or larger, 35 to 45 feet long, at $U) per M feet. Assorted sawn lumber, consisting of scantling, joists, deals, boards, and square timber, from 16 to 40 feet long, at ^12 per M feet. Tongued and grooved flooring, and surface clear lumber at ,^20 per M feet. COAL. This mineral is found extensively distributed in the North and South Pacific. Formosa Island, Labuan, B(jr- neo, Australia, New Zealand, Chili, New Grenada, Cali- fornia, Oregon, Washington Territory, British Columbia, and Vancouver Island, all contain coal formations of more or less value. The coal mines of Nanaimo, in the colony last named, however, happened to have been the first opened and worked in this section of the northern liemisphere; and so much capital and labour having already been expended in their development, they naturally possess an advantage on this ground, even if on no other, over all coal-mines tliat have since been discovered on the coast. There are no colliery companies in the vicinity, up to the present, that liave appliances for getting out this mineral, corresi)onding • M stands for thousand. 1 142 (iEXKUAL UKSOLIICKS Ob' VAXCOl'VKU ISLAND. to those of tlie Nuiiii'mio cstiiblislnnciit. There is one fiiiii on tlie American sitle of Fueji IStrails, wliose coal so fui' is sujH'iior. lint the seam of tlie hitter (H)neern lias not yet been fully tested. Still, ^vhat is known of it a(l()r(ls hopeful signs (jf its becoming valuable. The eonsuni[)tion of coal on the North racific is im- mense. San Francisco ah)ne consumes j)rol)ably upwards of ir)(S,000 tons a year. In comieetion with the Panama liailway, on both sides of the isthmus, it is estimated thai more than seventy steamers ply. The Amei'ican, Kussiaii, and British squadrons have also to be su})plied. The western coasts of North and South America are sjiid to produce only 10 percent of the entire quantity consumed, and by far the most of that pi'oportion comes from Chili, the yield of the mines on the northern coast being, up till now, too inconsiderable to receive notice. Coose Bay and Mount Diablo, with one or two other places in California, send a small contribution of coal to the San Francisco market. In Bellingham Bay, Washington Territory, there is a field consisting of four beds, cropjaiig out on the coast, and dipping north at an angle of 1 in 2. But none of the coal from these Americmi seams is worthy to be compared with that produced in Yanci^uver Island. Anthracite coal of excellent quality has been found in Fuca Straits, as already described, and for the supply of Portland and San Francisco that coal has an ad- vantage over a foreign import, being admitted duty free. But all the mines on the coast hitherto worked, put toge- ther, arc unequal to the wants of that great and increasing city alone. The only coal tluit can compete Avith ours in the Californian market, upon a lavrje scale, is that which ccmies from Newcastle, New South Wales. The table that follows shows a chemical comparison of Vancouver Island coal with other varieties : — I I \NI). STATISTICS OF COAL. li:l is one linii oal so Ijir is liiis iu)l yi't )nisli()iK't'iil ;u'ilie is im- )ly upwiinls the riiuMiuti LinijitL'd lliiit Jill, Kussiiiii, [)liL'(l. Tiu! art) said to y consiiuu'd, ; from Chili, leiiig, up till ir two other f coal to the Washinu'toii 1s, f'ropi)iiij^^ e of 1 in ± n seams is Vaueouver y lias been uid for the has an ad- duty free. , put toge- liucreasiii'^ ith ours iu Ithat Avhieh uparison of 4 Lociillty 1 r Nnnic of Coal ttnivlty of Coal l.:iOo Ciirbuii UOM ilrojrt'U 4,2s Kl- 1 Pill- troKoM |ihur i 1 ! Vor- ofCoKU W.'l.MhCnftl . 1 1.21 l.l.S 1 0.01 1.1.-, H.-,.0 Van IMi'iiicirs Laml — 7().K) 1.20 1.11 0.70 0.27 ll.:!.H IIDIIO Sv.ln..v, N.S.NV. . — h2.;h> h.:\-2 1.2.'l 0.70 H..'t2 2.01 (1 I'liniidsa Islaiiil 1.24 7H 2M O.70 O.OJ 0.|!» 10,0.-, .•{.U(i t) ISiiriU'o, II I'f. si'nni 1.21 7()..'t;{ n.ll 0.(i7 1.17 10.10 .•{.2.i M ('oru'L'ptinu I5av, Chili 1.20 70. W ').7(l ().'.>."» l.OS l;5.2l 7.r,2 M Vancouver — ~ (»(.():{ ri..'{2 1.02,2.20 1 H.70 lo.H.J 1 »> It will be seen from this analysis that our cojil, which is in the main bituminous, leaves behind when burned a large residuum of ash ; but the specimens examined were taken from near the surface, and already the quality im- proves as the vein is penetrated. The kind now producetl is held in high estimation, for the purpose of generating gas; and there is every reason to hope that our mines will yet yield coal vying with the best now known any- where for steam uses. The fcjllowing statement, given by Dr. Eattray, of the imports of coal into San Francisco, in 18G1 and 18(52, shows how largely that city is de[)endent u])on supplies from a distance, and the consequent opportunities aflbrded to coal mining companies in this colony to dispose of their exports : — Variety .Tanimrv 1 to .T.iiiiavv 1 to D. ccmbtr lij, ISGl Miiruli lo, isijj Tom l"]no-lisli ..... 21,si).-, 5,0: i(} Cumberland .... 2,(!<">2 2,870 Chili 12,2r,.l — Sydney 12,;{04 .'],042 Japan ..... 25 125 Coose and Bellinghani Uny (imported iVoe of duty) .... 10,18.3 2,5;15 Anthracite (New York) 20,201 .'5.1 7(5 j ^'ancouver Island (Nanaimo) 5,204 4,2;{5 ! I 144 GENERAL RESOURCES OF VANCOUVER ISLAND. Comparative List of Prices of Coal at Vancouver Island and San Francisco. Variety Price at the Mines Trice at Victoria rrico nt San Francisco Nanaimo Coal Chilian . Enjrlish . New South Wales . $ G to 7 11 \2 to ir, 12 to Jo IT) to 20' 12 to l:{ The duty on foreign coal in San Francisco is, I believe, 24 per cent. Two seams examined by practical mining engineers at Nanaimo, arc reported to average from G to 8 feet in thick- ness. The coal is described as ' a soft black lignite, ol" a dull earthy fracture, interspersed with small lenticular bands of bnght crystalline coal, and resembling some of the duller varieties of coal produced in the South Derby- shire and other central coal-fields in England. In some places, it exhibits the peculiar jointed structui-e, causing it to split into long prisms, observable in the brown coal of Bohemia.' Sometimes there occurs a floor of clay, but more generally of sandstone, and a roof consisting of a fine conglomerate bed, about CO feet thick. The roof of one seam is sometimes of ii'or clay shale. Out-crops liavc; been discovered at various distances from the shafts already sunk, supposed to be continuations of the beds now worked. These beds lie nearly horizontal, witli suffirient dip towards the south and west for drainage, and are worked within 50 or GO fecL of tlic surface. In the commo- dious harbour of Nanaimo exc(3llent wharves are erected, and vessels can be loaded within a few feet of the i)it's mouth. One vessel has taken in as much as 150 tons ])er day, and a number of vessels miglit, without inconve- nience, be loaded together. ND. Island ami STATISTICS OF COAL. 145 Pricn nt San Francisco $ 12 to lo 12 to Jo 15 to 20' 12 to i;{ , I believe, iigineers at 3et in tliiek- lin;nitc. of a lenticular i\m some of mtli Derby- . In some ii'C, causing brown coal 3f clay, but ng of a fmo roof of one crops have ifts already beds noAV h suiFicient e, and are le commo- re erected, |f the pit's tons ])er t inconve- Thc coal interest at Nanaimo was owned, till within the last few years by the Hudson's Buy Com})any, but that trade being foreign to their accustomed investments, it did not receive from them the attention recpdred to make it profitable. The mines were therefore purchased from them by an English joint-stock concern, styled ' the Vancouver Island Coal Mining and Land Company,' for 40,000/. The property includes 0,103 acres of land, 100 dwelling-houses, stores, workshops, machineiy, steam-engines, wdiarves, barges, saw-mill, Sec. The new company have subscribed 100,000/., in 10/. shares. Upon a capital of 50,000/. (says their prospectus), wliicli, after providing for the purchase and first outhiy, will aniply suffice to work the coal-fields, so as to keep pace with the in- creasing demand, the directors can with certainty calculate on a profit of not less than 20 per cent. One thousand tons weekly could be raised by this expenditure, and could be readily sold at 25s. per ton. Mr. Nicol, the present manager, calculated the cost of raising and shipping the coal, on the average of several years, at KJs. per ton, — viz. raising the coal to the surface, lOs.; shipping and n-jency, 5s.; and taxes, Is.; this, at the present price of 25s. per ton, will give a profit of 9s. per ton ; and a sale of even 500 tons weekly would, therefore, insure a prufit of 225/. a week, or nearly 12,000/. a year, upon the estimated ex- penditure of 50,000/. San Francisco alone consumes 14,000 tons u month, the greater portion of which has hitherto been brought from Eng- land or the eastern coast of the States, and has been sold as high as 51, per ton. The following table represents the total quantity shipj)ed from Nanaimo from the opening of the mines till De- cember 1803 : — 14G GENERAL RESOURCES OP VANCOUVER ISLAND. 1859 Tons KStil) IHOI 18GJ 18fi3 Tons Tons Tons Tons January 2,127 1,007 1,813 1,H77 February 1,188 l,lo7 700 1,075 March . 4> 908 1,508 05(3 1,:{30 April . t>^ 1,220 1,070 1,1(53 1,0(31 May . 3 1,208 1,013 047 1,159 June . a 1,000 184 738 1,557 July . o .-528 224 1,347 1,313 Aufrust o 717 l,03o 1,114 1,008 September . ^ 543 30.5 1,;532 1,581 October 2,2(32 1,528 3,020 2,000 November] . 1,201 1,207 1,153 1,777 2,510 December Totals . 008 1,989 l,;ioO 2,501 2,500 3,302 14,247 13,774 18,118 21,345 Total number of tons shipped from November 1859 . . . 09,473 Total number of tons shipped from October 1852 to November 1850 25,398 "Whole quantity left Nauaimo . 94,871 There wore 7,097 tons more shipped in 1804 than in 1803. At tlie first annual meeting of the directors, held in ]\Iarch 18G4, tlie Hon. C. W. W. Fitzwilliam, M.P., in the chair, a repcjrt was submitted, extracts from which indicate how far the hopes of the company, as expressed in their pro- spectus, were realised. The directors are able to congratulate the shareholders on the position of the company and the progress of the works at Nanainio. The locomotive, the first which lias Ijeen introduced into tlie colonies of Vancouver Island and British Columbia, is now in full working order, and has already tended to reduce the cost of loading and shipping the coal ; and ]Mr. Nicol re- marks that he still thinks when he gets the appliances required (additional rails and wharves), and has time to get them into working order, and the output and the demand increase to his expectations of no less than 3,000 tons a month, that the total cost of railing and loading the coal will be below his estimate of lf)8. per ton, as set out in the prospectus. . . . Tlic shipineiifs have exceeded Mr. Nlc<jl''s estimate by nearly 1,400 tons, . . . The advance would probably have been greatly increased but for ND. NAXAIMO COAL COMPANY. 147 00,473 rl859 25,398 1)4,871 180:3. Id ill :Marcli [,lie chair, a dicate liow their pro- eholders on be 'svorks at 1 introduced ^'oliiinbia, is d to reduce r. Nicol re- ices recpiired t thuni into rease to liis at the total estimate of shiijiiwnts ) foius. . . . sed but for tlie difficulty of obtaining vessels at San Francisco at moderate rates of freight. In order that this obstruction to the local trade should be removed, the directors have recently given instructions to at once charter, on the company's account, two vessels of about (500 tons each, for the purpose of furnishing a continuous supply to the San Francisco market. . . . ]Mr. Nicol says that the de- mand is always increasing. The San Francisco market would take 30,000 tons of their coal if they could reduce the price. The approval of the coal by the engineers of Her Majesty's ships is a guarantee that all future supplies for the naval d{'j)ots in the Pacific will be taken from Nanaimo. Dr. Forbes esti- mates the coal within an area of 800,000 ,s(|uare yards, or about 1(55 acres, at 3,000,000 tons — a quantity practically inexhaus- tible. As this is the pioneer coal mining company in our island, and still the only one engaged in the export of the colo- nial product under consideration (though other eom}):inies are setting to work in earnest), the reader will excuse a brief additional space given to details. An extract i'roni tlic last report of the directors submitted in London, Novem- ber 29, 18G4, further proves how strong are the indnci'- ments offered for the formation of many rival comp;inies, for the ejcportation of coal from the colony. Since the issue of the last report, the directors have received from tlieir manager information of the continued progress of the works in connection with the colliery, and the most satis- factory accounts of increasing settlement on the property of the company. Tlie output of coal for the first six months of 18fi4 has been increased to nearly double that for the same period during the previous year. . . . The character of the company's coal and tlie facilities afforded for shipment are now becoming so well known that the directors have no fear for the future. The recent discovery of gold about thirty miles from Victoria, on the Sooke Kiver, will add very materially to the prosperity of Vancouver Island, giving an impetus to trade by the imnii- r. 2 148 GENERAL RESOURCES OF VANCOUVER ISLAND. gration of tlie labouring population from California, which has been so long required. . . . The manager thinking it desirable to test the value of the land at Nanaimo, arrangements were made lor the sale at Vic- toria, in the month of May last, of certain lots by public auction, and accordingly at such sale 100 lots were disposed of. . . . The sum for which the lots were sold amounted to 4,607L ; and the sum of 5,040Z., which appears in the profit and loss account as the amount of those sales, together with other sales of town lots to the employes of the company at Nanaimo during the first six months, will be carried to the credit of the land mort- gage account. The test which has thus been afforded of the value of the town site offers an assurance that Nanaimo will continue to hold her present position as the second city in the colony, and justifies the anticipation expressed in the prospectus that the estate of the company, independently of the coal seams, will eventually realise the whole of the purchase-money. . . . Nanaimo is a port of entry ; the harbour has been carefully buoyed, and is available at all tides ; and a commodious wharf is nearly completed, giving greater facilities for the loading of ships of deep draught. In the balance-sheet submitted, the profit upon the coal trade and other sources, for the half year ending June 30, 1864, is shown as amounting to 4,126^ 13s. 6d.; and adding to this 4,032^. 2s. 4cZ., the balance of profit and loss carried over at the end of the past year, after paying a dividend of 5 per cent, and reserving the sum of 600^. as a depreciation fund for the steamer * Fideliter,' and also writing otithe sum of 447^. 4s. W. from pre- liminary expenses account, will leave a balance of profit, exclu- sive of sales, of 8,158L 13s. 6t2. . . . The directors feel they have every reason to congratulate the shareholders on the present position of the company's property, and that they have been enabled, within a period of two years from the date at which the transfer was completed, to realise all that was set out in their prospectus. In the coiiiparutive statement of shipments of coal, tlie , which has alue of the sale at Vic- »lic auction, r. . . . The I.; and the account as les of town during the land mort- al ue of the continue to colony, and lis that the seams, will • • • m carefully [iious wharf loading of coal trade 0, 1864, is ing to this over at the r cent, and le steamer from pre- ofit, exclu- itulate the property, two years realise all coal, the MARKETS FOR COAL. 149 quantity removed in 1863-G4 is shown to be 15,622 tons. Besides the markets for coal already specified, another of some importance was opened at the end of last year. Late advices from Victoria inform us that the Paissian steam propeller, Trince Constantine,' took to Sitka 350 toi?s of Nannimo coal, as a trial shipment. It was deported that she sliould be followed by a large Russian ship which was being refitted for the express purpose of proceeding to our colony for a cargo of coal. There are always several liussian steam-ships of war cruising in the Pacific, and there is little doubt that in future most of them will coal in Vancouver Island. The coal found in the Russian possessions is a sort of inferior lignite, and can be burned with difficulty. The seams, which are very thin, have been worked for many years by the Russians at con- siderable loss. Last summer, when the recently appointed governor of Sitka was on his way north, he passed a few days in Victoria, and, observing the excellence of our coal, lost no time in ordering two of the vessels under his direc- tion to hjad vv^ith it. A company, supported by some large British capitalists, among whom I believe are noblemen, has been formed to work an important coal mine, situated not far from tlie premises of the Nanaimo firm. An Act lias passed the local legislature to enable thein to construct a railroad through the lands of the other mining company, for con- veying the product of the mine to the loading place. The new concern takes its name from a noble lord who is said to be largely interested in it, and is known as ' the Hare- wood Coal Mining Company/ The following communica- tion, addressed to ' The British Columbian ' newspaper by one familiar with the inspection of mines, conveys some account of this promising vein : — 150 GENERAL RESOURCES OF VA^'COUVER ISLAND. Sir, — The Victoria papers are too much occupied with tlieir prochyious gold discoveries at »Sooke to pay any attention to their coid mines, which are much more important. They have cer- tainly got a very fine coal field in Vancouver Island. As there is at present a good deal of animation in this town ahout coal and coal mines, I heg to lay before your readers a few facts which I noted when I was at Nanaimo on Saturday last. I went over the Harewood ]Mine with Mr. Robert Dunsmuir, the agent, and anotiier gentleman. I have had a good deal of experience in coal mines, and, according to my ideas, the liarewood Mine offers more facilities for working than any other mine on the Pacific coast. The seam runs due north, sloping up from the sea. This slope is of very great advantage, for two reasons, as the company can tunnel instead of sinking a sliaft, and so can draw their coal out instead of raising it ; and agjvin, they can drain a very large extent of ground, a mile and a iialf by three miles, from < ne opening, without being obliged to use pumps or any engines whatsoever. A tunnel is much safer for men to work in than a shaft, and this is a better tunnel than ordinary, for above the seam of coal is a good sandstone formation, wdiich obviates tiie necessity of using any timber to hold tlie top. Not that timber is dear in this country, but then labour is. As far as I could judge by a cursory inspection, the coal is of an excellent (juality, with very little sulphur in it, and I think that it is very good for making steam. INIuch credit is due to Mr. Dunsmuir, for his skill in tracing the seam. He has not been sinking holes here and there as a less experienced man might have done, but he has followed the lead most perseveringly and to a suc- cessful issue. Hoping that this may interest some of our present coal explorers, who I hope will meet with luck, I conclude wdth, Yours truly, .John Rees Price. i , The largest portion of tlie east side of the island may be described as a huge coal bed. This mineral lias also been found cropping out at various points on the Avest coast. Tlie geological map printed for the use of tlie I VND. COITKR. 151 I with their tion to their 3y have cer- As there is mt coal and lets which I went over ; agent, and cperience in wood Mine line on the ip from the reasons, as and so can n, thoy can df by tliree e pnmps or for men to in ordinary, tion, which i top. Not As far as n excellent t it is very Dunsmnir, en sinking lave done, d to a snc- e of our :h luck, I .'rice. id may be has also tlie west iv of the rarliamentaiy committee appointed to examine the afTairs of tlie Hudson's Bay Company, in 1857, presents a great coal district on tlie mainland, I'unning parallel witli that traced on the island. As might have l)een exjiected, woi'kable seams have been discovered in liurrard Inlet and at Langley. A gentleman, who has resided about two years on the north-west coast of the island, states that he saw at Kos- keemo five seams, varying in thickness, one of these being about 3 feet 10 inches, and another about G feet 2 inches in width. The entire section of country lying between Koskeemo and Port McNeil, a distance of sixteen miles, ajounds more or less in valuable mineral. At the latter place, which is about twelve miles south of Fort Rupert, four good seams are visible. The mine at Fort McXeil lias been opened ; the first output consisting of some 50 tons of very su[)erior quality. Copper. — This metal aboimds in the colony. The first lode of any consequence that was discovered came under public notice in a casual manner. An Indian was passing the office of an assayer in Vicicria, in 1800, with specimens of cojiper ore hi his hand. The gentleman examined them, and almost immediately a company was formed to explore the region where the native said the oriuinal of the ore Avas to be found. The lode was tr[ice<l across certain small islands contiguous to Queen Charlotte Island, and up to tins date probably £10,000 may have been expended uiioii the Avorking of it. When it is borne in mind that there are properly no capitalists in the company, the result may be deemed not disc(3uraging. A professional copper-mining engineer, sent out from the parent country by a wealthy English company to exjilore for minerals, inspected the property of the Queen Charlotte Island Mining Coin})any, and drew u[) an elaborate report, f 152 GENKllAL RESOURCES OF VANXOUVER ISLAND. from wliich it appears tliat lie found tlie followiiii^ favourable indications in those parts of the company's huid innnediately accessi])le : — No. 1. A vein of copper clearly traceable for 700 to 800 yards along the shore of Kiirnahy Island, from the east point, beyond the house, along the SSE. shore, towards the house. No. 2. A cross copper vein, from where No. 1 is lost, under the se.a, running NE. and 8VV. across the promontory towards Blue Jay Harbour. No. 3. A very strong quartz vein on the north side of Blue Jay Harbour ; clearly visible. No. 4. A small horizontal vein, to eastward of No. 3. — Iron and copper, and mixed with quartz. No. 5. A clear and well defined outcrop of a copper vein on Skincuttle Island, runningNNE. and SSW., but cutoff by a dyke. No. 6. A twisted and mixed outcrop of a copper vein, on opposite or NE. side of Skincuttle Island. No. 7. A large quartz vein on George Island. No. 8. A large quartz vein at NE. end ofGeorge Island, seen from canoe, but not visited. No. 9. A quartz vein at W. end of Jeffray Island, which crosses the island and meets No. 10. No. 10. A copper vein rich in green carbonates, running SSW. and NNE. No. 11. A vein of copper and iron, on mainland, at the entrance to Harriet Harbour, on south side of Sockalee Harbour. Quantities of this ore have been shipped to England and the eastern States of America. Chapter II. contains a list of joint-stock companies formed in Victoria, among which are most of those engaged in copper mining. In company with a gentleman experienced in directing copper mines in Wales, I had an opportunity some time since of inspecting a vein hi the island, which extended a great distance. The description of ore picked up at the mouth of the shaft, was the ordinary j)yrites of copper. I lND. MAGNETIC IKON ORE. 1 )o : f()llowill<^ pany's liuid 700 to 800 le east point, 3 house. lost, under tory towards ide of Blue ^o. 3. — Iron iper vein on ff by a dyke. )er vein, on Island, seen and, which 3S, running nd, at the ee Harbour. gland and ains a list 3ng which directing ome time xtended a up at tlie )f coi)per. ^ ^ k But I bavo seen excellent specimens of peacock ore, red and ])lack oxides, and green carbonate, bronglit from other local mines. The average percentage of metal yielded by the copper ore of the island is 25 percent. It is said that 8 per cent is deemed a pjiying ratio in the ore of Wales and Cornwall. If the value of the colonial ore is ])roperly calculated, tliere is certainly a siifiicient margin left to pay freight and charges, tt)gether with a handsome profit. Mr. Pemberton states that he saw specimens of copper nearly pure taken from Deer Island, in the neighbouriiood of Fort llupert. As it is not my intention to enter specifically into any of the metallic resources of British Columbia, except gold, it may be mentioned here tliat I have seen pieces ofjnire copper taken from Stickcen River, where the natives prepare it for useful and ornamental })iu*poses. In a population so small and of such limited ability as that which inhabits our colony, it is hardly to be supposed that capital enough should be found to develop this branch of our resources satisfactorily. This expensive labour is only to be performed efficiently by extensive associated capital, and a more inviting prospect for wealthy iiritish companies does not exist in any other section of British territory. The present stockholders, who are for the most part un.able to bring the copper enterprise to great issues, should be relieved of their shares at a reasonable bonus, and displaced by those who possess the means of introducing the appliances requisite for bringing the mines to a prosperous condition. Veins are freely distributed in most parts of the island and on the opposite side of the Gulf of Georgia. Maijnetic iron ore from the north of the colony, contain- ing 70 per cent of iron and a little copper, was exhibited at the World's Fair, in London, in 18G2. 1 l')i (iKNKKAL Ui:SOl'Ilc;i:S (JF VAXCOl'VKU ISUNl). Lhix'stone is ovrry wln-ro iibundiint ; so is san<lsl(>ii(\ ■Nvliicli is of excellent quMlity for IjuildiiiLf purposes. Jilne Mtivlde is jilso round on the coast, ofti'U intersected \ Avitli veins of \vliite as nnich as nine inches thick. For this material ^wn Francisco olli'rs a ffood market, (iuanti- ties of it are imj)orted amnially from Vermont via New ^ York, and thence shipped. It is alsobiou^ht trom Italy, and «i costs 1/. per square foot in the roULih. It is used for makin<^ monuments and mantel])ieces. San Franciso is said to [)ay for the article l)et\veen 15,000/. and 20,000/. a year. ])lue Clay^ suitable for the nuinufacture ol" bricks, tiles, and coarse pottery, is difTused over a portion of the island, often near the surface. (lold. — The existence of n;old in the island has been known since 1850. 'In 1852,' Avrites ^Ir. Pemberton, 'I broke ofT, ahnost at random, ])ieces of jfold-beariiiLj rock in various ])hices within a walk of Victoria.' In tiie same year, the Hudson's Bay Company desj)atched the 'Una' to Queen Charlotte Island with a party of miners provided "with every requisite for blasting gold-beaiing quartz on a large scale. The historian of the expedition says : — Anchored in ]Mitcliell Harbour, on the western side of the island, a valuable quartz vein was soon discovered. It was 7 inches wide, was traced for 80 feet, and contained 25 per cent of gold in many places. For several days the vein was worked with but one bar to their success, and that a serious one. At every blast the natives scrambled with the miners and with one anotlier for the fragments. As neither side was armed, these arrangements were conducted with perfect good humour. By way of episode to the general engagements, both parties occasionally paused to witness a fair wrestling match between some sturdy Scotchman who had the science, and any Indian that was ambitious to distinguish himself; and the miners them- .selves afterwards admitted that nakedness and fish oil often carried the day. At length the vein was abandoned, anchor 1 AM). (lOLl) IX TIIK ISLAND. .).) )OSC'S. intersected thick. For .'t. (JuMiiti- ut via Xew II ItJilv, niid forinakii)*^ 1 said to [)ay rear'. •I'icks, tiles, ' tlie island, d has been nbertun, 'I "ingrock in n the same le ' Una' to s provided quartz on says : — side of the srl. It was <1 2a per e vein was t a serious miners and was armed, d humour, oth parties fli between my Indian uers t hem- oil often 'd, anehor ■I weij^hed, iuid tlir * Una' wrecked and hurnt on her way hack to N'icforia. The heaviest specimens df pure ^'old as yet ohtaine«l from (^ueen Cliarlotte Island wcij^died frum 14 to 1(1 ounces. The first ajipeaiance of j^old in \'anc()uver that excited special notice was found in 1803, in a district about four- teen miles from Victoria, now known as ' Ooldstieam.' Here the precious metal was extracted from ([uaitz rock, there bein^' no pldccr ' dig^dngs.' In a short time the auriferous ground was staked out, and ten com[)anie> were formed to work it, which thev did with varied success. The Uarmeter Company, in order to test thoroughly the rock which they had blasted, sent half a ton of it to San Francisco to be crushed and assayed. A bar of amalgamated silver and gold Avas the I'esult, giving an average (^25 to the ton. This may be pronounced a lioj)eful retui'n from quartz at a de})th of 50 feet from the surface. It is stated that the famous 'Comstock' lead at Washoe did not begin to pay richly till a depth of 200 feet had been reached. Other quartz mining comjianies engaged in the same neighboiu'hood, though invariably finding fair ' })rospect8,' have not been so suc- cessful as the Parmeter ; but the chief obstacle to progi'ess, as in relation to the develoj)ment of other resources, has been the want of adequate capital to pursue operations. Many thousands of ])ounds have been sunk in mining speculations in California and elsewhere with much less certainty of a profitable issue. A nev/" and important era has just dawned on the gold- mining interest of Vancouver Island, that will be im- perishably associated with the name of the present talented and popular representative of Her Majesty — Governor Kennedy. His predecessor, though often ui'ged to adopt vigorous measures for the ex})loration of the colony, invariably declined to comply with the entreaties I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ,^^. 1.0 !i:"^l I.I 1^ m 2.5 :^ 1^ IIIIIM L25 i 1.4 I— 1.6 v] <^ /a ^J> % '/ y^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 /i 156 GENERAL RESOURCES OF VANCOUVER ISLAND. S of the public in reference to this object. But the first official act of Captain Kennedy, after his accession to the seat of government, was to suggest that the citizens of Victoria should raise subscriptions for the purpose of sending out an exploring party. His Excellency promis- ing to supplement largely the contributions of the people, from funds which the estimates for the year authorised him in devoting to the purposes of exploration. The liberal and thoughtful offer of the Governor was taken up warmly, and without delay. An efficient committee was appointed to cooperate with the Government in the matter, and a number of volunteers, including some ex-Eoyal Engineers, presented themselves for the acceptance of the authorities, and were approved. Mr. Brown, acting as collector for the British Columbian Botanical Society of Edinburgh, was appointed commander of the expedi- tion ; and the fourth despatch of that gentleman, dated July 21, 1864, brought news of the discovery of gold about twenty-five miles from Victoria, that created intense excitement. The sequel proves that the statements of Mr. Brown were not exaggerated. He writes : — The discovery which I have to communicate is the finding of gold on the banks of one of the forks of the Sooke River, about twelve miles from the sea, in a straight line and in a locality never hitherto reached by white men, in all probability, never even by natives. I forward an eighth of an ounce (or there- abouts) of the coarse scale gold tvashed out of twelve pans of dii% in many places 20 feet above the river, and with no too's but a shovel and a gold pan. The lowest prospect obtained was three cents to the pan ; the highest ^1 to the pan, and work like that with the rocker would yield what pay you can better calculate than I can, and the development of which with what results to the colony you may imagine. The diggings extend for fully 25 miles, and would give employment to more than 4,000 men. Many of the claims would take eight to ten men \ LAND. But tlie first ission to tlie e citizens of } purpose of 3ncy proniis- f tlie people, r authorised ration. The was taken up immittee was n the matter, ne ex-Eoyal cceptance of trown, acting iiical Society the expedi- leman, dated rery of gold sated intense atements of le finding of River, about in a locality [ibility, never ce (or therc- elve pans of vith no too's obtained was n, and work u can better h with what ings extend more than to ten men I DISCOVERIES AT SOOKE. 157 to work them. The diggings could be wrought with great facility by fluming the bed of the stream. The banks and benches can be sluiced or rocked. The timber on the banks will supply to the whipsaw all the timber that can ever be required for the miner's purposes. The country abounds with game, and the ' honest miner ' need never fear but that he can find food enough without much trouble. A saw mill could be erected at the head waters (or say at the forks of Leech Kiver), and lumber for flumes, pumps, wheels, sluices, etc., floated down to the miners, and on the whole the value of the diggings cannot be easily over-estimated. I may add that there is any amount of ' five cent dirt,' and with proper tools the average prospect is about one bit to the pan. The gold will speak for itself. Mr. Foley, an intelligent member of the expedition, gave, in substance, to the committee the following parti- culars of the new auriferous region. From the Indian village at the mouth of Sooke Harbour, and to the right approaching the river, to the head of canoe navigation, is about two miles. A trail takes the traveller, after a journey of some half-dozen miles, to a canon. ' Prospects ' are to be had along the river below the caiion. A man living near this place told Mr. Foley that he had once obtained a nugget worth fifty cents on a httle creek not many yards from his hut. The general character of the country, from the harbour to the caiion, is open ; the timber being valuable and the land much richer than between Cowichan and San Juan Eiver. It is almost free from underbrush, and contains, for a quarter of a mile, on both sides, abundance of grass and wild lupine. The general bearing of the river at this part is about south-east. The ' prospects ' here were found by Mr. Foley to average three or four cents to the pan. The ' prospects ' taken on the large bar immediately above the caiion were estimated to average, to an ex- 158 GEN'lillAL RKSOURCES OF VANCOITKR ISLAND. perieuced minor witli a rocker, $7 or $S a day. U'lic leiigtli of the bar is about 300 feet, and tlio breadtli, as far as the ' pay dirt ' can be traced back, 25 feet. Tlie gold is of a coarse kind, and very good in quality. From the canon to Avliere Leecli Eiver del)ouches into the Sooke Piiver is about seven miles. The general course of the river between these two points is SSE., and will pay, from the canon to the forks, handsomely. Mr. Foley made about sixty ' prospects ' on the way up, and not one of the washings was without some result: the highest was fifteen cents to the pan. Tliese diggings comprise three branches ; those on the river could only be worked by fluming the stream ; the banks can be ' rocked,' and the benclies ' sluiced.' The stream averages 100 feet wide, and thougli in summer it has not more tlian 1,000 inches of water, according to miners' reckoning, in the winter it is a large river. It rises between 25 and 30 feet, and when full must be more than 200 feet wide. The travelling is not diflicult, as the country is of an open character. In ad- vancing, the party came to the stream named after tlie second officer of the expedition, Leecli Eiver. Mr. Foley saw some quartz here, which, on trial, turned out to be comprised principally of silver — the calcareous base on which gold is chiefly found. The timber continued to be superior, and the country level and open. Here a lake was met with, that probably no white man had ever visited before. Captain Grant had .see7i it at a distance more than ten years ago, from one of the mountain peaks. Its length is ten miles, and its mean breadth two : the latitude of the soutliern extremity of the lake is N. 48° 30' 49". The lower part is covered for three or four miles with beaver dams, and these animals are to be seen in great numbers ; the game, never liaving been previously disturbed by white man or Indian, is exceedingly tame. .AND. THE SOOKE MINES. lo'J I (lay. The breadth, as > feet. Tlie ality. From to the Sooke (iirse of tlie ill pay, from Foley made )t one of tlio t was fifteen }e brandies ; flaming tlie :he benelies and thouii'li 3s of water, it is a lai'ge 1 when fidl filing is not ter. In ad- d after tlie liver. Mr. turned out areous base ontinued to lere a lake had ever a distance ain peaks. two: the is N. 48° e or four to be seen previously igly tame. Tlie 'prospects' from the mouth of Leech Iliver, which empties into Sooke Iviver, averaged about eight cents to the pan, but some reached as high as forty-nine cents, and in one case nearly $1 to the pan was obtained. Leech Piiver is about 60 or 70 feet wide, and from its mouth to the first canon is about two miles, which space can be easily llunied : the bed-rock is talcose slate. The channel, banks, and benches will afford employment for a large nimiber of men. Mr. Foley continued ' j)rospecting ' till in ascend- ing Leech River he had advanced twenty-two miles from Sooke Harbour. As he ascended, the quality of the gold found grew coarser, yielding twenty-five cents to the ])an. The ' prospects ' became richer, and the gold yet coarser, as he travelled along the north fork of Leech lliver. Here, then, was an extent of river twenty-five miles long, all of it auriferous, and giving ' prospects ' which miners would not have slighted, even in the })almy days of California. In all his long experience in that State and in Cariboo, Mr. Foley never saw a more promising mining country than the one through which he passed. Another gentleman, who, with the one just named, is personally known to me, made a tour through Sooke district, and thus writes : — • The whole number of (mining) licences taken out up to 8 o'clock 5-esterday morning (14th August, 1864) was 227. . . . Dean, Thorne, vt Go's claim was reached. They were preparing to drive a tunnel into the hill, as they had found excellent prospects, as high as 20 cents to the pan, on the top of the first bench, which is 100 feet high I The claim-owners stated positively that they never washed any dirt from the benches without obtaining gold. . . . They were very sanguine of getting splendid pay in the bed-rock, and believed that millions of dollars would be found in the bed of the river. On coming to the claim of the Wake-up Lake Company, Mr. Fell was shown the prospect of their day's labour in a tin cup, amounting to IGO GEXERAL RESOURCES OP VANXOUVER ISLAND. nearly ^100, and consisting of beantiful coarse gold. One com- pany had borrowed a rickety old rocker, and Lad got out ,^25 that day, expecting to make it $-iO by nightfall. Some distance above this the Balaclava Company picked up off the rocks nug- gets of values varying between $5 and ,^10. Mr. Fell sends home very fine nuggets found without * washing.' From tlie point where our informant now was, a grand view up the river for two or three miles was obtained. The bed of the stream is here filled with enormous boid- ders : a long line of stakes, marking off tlie claims taken up, are visible as far as the eye can reach. At 5 p.m. the traveller retraced his steps down the stream, when his olfactories were assailed perpetually by tlie savoury smells of the miners' evening meal. Five fellow-travellers were met with, having a large boulder for a table, engaged in the task of appeasing voracious appetites. After dinner a song was started, and was taken up by camp after camp of miners, the melody rolHng far away up the recesses of the river, till its echoes died out in the distance. The travellers then rolled themselves in their blankets, with a flour-bag for a pillow, to sleep, till the tramp of upward - bound miners should wake them at sunrise. An overland trail, about twenty-five miles long, is now in use by man and beast from Victoria to the digging, one important effect of which is to cheapen provisions conveyed to the miners. Another correspondent, addressing his brother, says : — Leech River, Tuesday. Dear Henry, — We arrived last night and started a prospecting. We have joined Bill Nixon, for we had been out of grub, having left it behind at the mouth of the river. There is plenty of gold here. Booth took out a piece of 5 ounces in weight, which you will see. If you think of coming, come early. I have not taken up a claim for any one, as the Gold Commissioner will 1 ND. \ YIELD OF THE MINES. 101 One corn- got out ,^25 line distance ? rocks nug- Fell sends as, a gmnd s obtained. iiiou« boid- iuims taken t 5 P.M. the 1, wlien his oiiry smells ^ellei's were engaged in \.fter dinner I after camp recesses of tance. The ets, with a »f upward - )ng, is now le digging, provisions 3r, says : — pr, Tuesday. )rospecting. jrub, having jnty of gold which you have not ssioner will allow only 72 hours to hold it without being properly repre- sented. We have struck .3 cent dirt this afternoon which we have taken up. Two of the party go up to-morrt)VV morning, four remain here, and three go back for grub. Tell Godsoe to come. If you come, come with grub by the steamer, and it" you can, get an Indian to pack ; but the diggings, I think, will beat Cariboo. Tell Keed, the ferryman, there is a claim for him. Enclosed is a prospect from one pan. In the month of August, Thain & Go's, claim was paying about 2 ozs. (or .^34) per day to the rocker. A nugget worth .^70 was foinid about two miles above the mouth of Leech river ; another company took out 3 ozs. in eight hours by crevicing. Mr. Nixon, a comj^ositor from the ' Chronicle' office, and company, started the first rocker on the creek, and uiade at the rate of ,^10 a day to the hand. One man obtained a S^y nugget from a pan of coarse dirt ; a claim owned by coloured men paid from SIO to ,^20 p(.'r day. Mr. Keyser's company, in four hours' digging and ' rocking,' cleaned up $42, among which was a })ioce weighing 1^7, another i^4, and two or three valued at ,^1 each. The gold was pure ore. Jim Williams took out, with a pan, in four hours' work, about S7. This claim is located about IJ miles above the mouth of the river. Marvin and Adams washed, from one and a half pans of dirt, five or six dollars. This rate of success was not, of course, uniform. A large proportion of those who first arrived at the mines, having had no experience in a mining coimtry, after stopping a day or two, and not finding lumps of gold visible to the naked eye, returned to Victoria discouraged, without ever strik- ing a pick in the groimd. Instances could be pointed to, of men glancing over the district superficially for a couple of days, without having brought pick, pan, shovel, or muscular power into requisition, and then retreating in M 1 162 GENERAL RESOURCES OP VANCOUVER ISLAND. a state of disappointment and indignation ! This is usually the class distinguished f(3r writing stormy letters to the English newspapers in denunciation of the countiy which has unrighteously to bear the blame of every idle and thriftless vagabond's failure. Active and fortunate miners have no motive for seeking the notoriety of cacoethes scri- hendi. In October last a new gulch was discovered on the east side of Leech river, emptying into the latter at Bacon bar. It was ' prospected ' by a Cariboo miner named Water- ford, who picked up a piece of gold valued at Sl.^h. lie went to work next day, and realised from iS'lO to 1^12, and about twenty men at once took up claims, and built sluices. The discoverer had been sceptical of the produc- tiveness of the diggings, saying he would not give Bh for the whole country. Now he would not take a large sum for 100 feet. Late intelligence reports a nugget worth i^50 to have been found in the Alberni claim, and another worth jS'33, by the Industry Company. The former nugget contained quartz to which the gold clung in fantastic shapes. No more proof can be needed of the richness of a district that has only been known to the world and ' pro- spected' by a few hundred miners, for two or three months. The golden wealth to be disgorged when labour and enterprise are more widely applied, in that and other parts of the island, is incalculable. Jordan river was discovered in the fall of 1864, and presents romantic features resembling those of Sooke and Ijcecli rivers. Travelling here, as in other directions throughout that picturesque neighbourhood, is rendered difficult by the timber being dense and the path often precipitous. In crevicing on the Jordan, parties obtained good specimens of scale and shot gold. Further accounts inform us that a man nnmed Weine lND. FISHERIES. ica s is usually ;ers to tlie ntiy which (T idle and late miners •.oethes scri- on the east Bacon bar. led Water- at ^1.25. no to ^12, (, and built :he produc- give $0 for a large sum t worth ^50 nd another ■mer nugget in fantastic richness of and ' pro- or three 'hen labour It and other 1864, and Sooke and directions is rendered path often les obtained ned Weine liad found a ii?35 nugget, whi(^h he washed out in the second pan ; that the Crate Company were taking out with rockers nearly an ounce a day to the hand. 'J'iio Last Chance Company were making about the same amount. The Scandinavian Company divided 8\,i){){), and the Bacon-bar Company i^l,700, accumulated respectively in one week. The iirst day Allen & Co. ran their sluices they took out in two hours an ounce and a quarter. It is estimated that (^30,000 was taken out of the mines by a limited number of hands in little more than a month. The occurrence of freshets in the fall, and a i)eriod of frost in winter, will necessarily interrupt the energetic prosecution of mhiing labour at Sooke; but when the mines are more fully opened, tunnelling and bench diggings may be followed all the year round. These mines are not to be compared, for the present at least, with Cariboo, in respect to extent of yield. But they will afford occupation for the winter months to tlie miners of British Columbia, who have been in the habit, in too many cases, of spending that season in idleness and its attendant follies. FISHERIES. The seas, bays, and rivers of both these colonies teem with domestic resources of this description in endless variety. Herrings, which make their appearance in yir bights and harbours in March, may be mentioned first in order. On the coasts of Vancouver Island these fish are large, and admirably adapted to make bloaters. Hoolakans ascend the streams in April in dense shoals. Their approach is indicated by the presence of sea-gulls swooping down to devour them, and causing the banks of the river to echo with their screeching. This sjiecies are M 2 1G4 GENERAL RESOURCES OP VANCOUVER ISLAND. about tlic size of a small herring, and are so fat as to baflle ordinary methods of cooking to prepare them for tlie table. Oil is pressed from them by the Indians on the coast, and disposed of to tribes in the interior. It possesses a medicinal value, and cannot fail to be useful where any hydrocarbonaceous food, such as cod-liver oil, is pre- scribed. Mr. Duncan, missionary to the natives, near Fort Simp- son, in a letter to the Church Missionary Society, gives a description of the primitive process of extracting adopted by the Indians. In a general way I found each house had a pit near it, ahout .3 feet deep and 6 or 8 inches square, filled with little fish. I found some Indians making boxes to put the grease in, others cutting firewood, and others (women and children) stringing the fish and hanging them up to dry in the sun ; while others, and they the greater number, were making fish grease. The process is as follows : — Make a large fire ; place three or four heaps of stones as big as your hand in it ; while these are heating, fill a few baskets with rather stale fish, and get a tub of water into the house. When the stones are red hot, bring a deep box about 18 inches square (the sides of which are all one piece of wood) near the fire, and put about half a gallon of tiie fish into it, and as much fresh water, then three or four hot stones, using wooden tongs. Repeat the doses again, then stir up the whole. Repeat them again, stir again ; take out the cold stones and place them in the fire. Proceed in this way till the box is nearly full, then let the whole cool and commence skimming off the grease. While this is cooking, prepare another boxful in the same way. In doing the third, use, instead of fresh water, the liquid from the first box. On coming to the refuse of the boiled fish in the box, which is still pretty warm, let it be put into a rough willow basket ; then let an old woman, for the purpose of squeezing the liquid from it, lay it on a wooden grate sufficiently elevated to let a wooden box stand under ; then let her lay her naked chest on it, and press it with all her weight. On no AND. as to bafllo m for tlic ans on the [t possesses where any >il, is pre- Fort Simp- 3ty, gives u ng adopted r it, about 3 ish. I found hers cutting ing the fish srs, and they e process is ur heaps of mating, fill a water into a deep box me piece of he fish into tones, using 3 the whole, stones and 30X is nearly ing oft' the )xful in the water, the )f the boiled put into a purpose of sufficiently her lay her t. On no 1 VAKIETIKS 01' SALMON. Kl.j account must a male undertake to do this. Cast what remains in the basket anywhere JU'ar the house ; but takr the liquid just saved and use it over n;;ain instead of fresh water. The refuse nuist be allowed to accumulate ; and though it will soon become putrid and change into a heap of creeping maggots, and giv«! out a smell almost unendurable, it must not be removed. The filth contracted by those engaged in the work must not ho. washed off till all is over, that is, till all the fish are boiled, and this will take about two or three weeks. All these plans must be carried out without any addition or change, otherwise the fish will be ashamed and perhaps never come back again. So think and act the poor Indians. When dried, the hoolukan is often used by the natives as a t(^reb, and, when lighted, it emits a brilliant light. The Indians catch this species of fish by impaling them on rows of nails at the end of a stick, about four feet long, and so thickly do they swarm, that every time this rude implement is waved in tlie water, two or three of them adhere to it.* Various species of salmon proceed in succession up tlic rivers from March to October. In the Fraser especially, the periodic arrival of distinct kinds may be calculated upon with remarkable certainty, and half a dozen dificrent species have been observed to pass uj) that river in one year. The hook-hill and silver or spring salmon are known to swim up a thousand miles from the moutli, battling successfully with the current, and pressing througli swift canons, and over foils, impelled by the natural instinct to propagate. But while many of them succeed in depositing their spawn at the head waters of great rivers, not a few are exhausted in the struggle and die. An ofiBcer in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, wlio resided on the in * Put up in the form of sardines, hoolakan would soon become popular Europe and A 'nerica. 100 (iKN'HRAIi RKSOUUCHS OF VANX'OUVKU ISLAND. C'()lmnl)i}i rivor (Ofc^oii) tor many years, states tliatona suddi'ii lulling of tlio waters, the nunil)ers of salmon left on the banks are so inunensc as to cause the river to stink for miles. The advent of the spring or silver salmon, which is the most valuable, because the most wholesome, occurs about the end of March or the beginning of April ; and in June it is caught in abundance. Its weight ranges from 4 to 72 lbs. The species which arrives between June and August is small and tender, averaging from 5 lbs. to G lbs. The third kind comes in August, and weighs 7 lbs. The luimpback species ap[)ears every alternate year in August, and remains till winter. It is most suitably cured by drying and smoking. The hook-bill arrives in Se]itember, and is so called from having a bill like a parrot's. It has small sharp teeth. Its flesh is white, soft, and flabby, and, in the male, is alto- getlier unpalatable. Salmon is one of the chief sources of Indian revenue. The natives are active in hawking it in the white settle- ments, and for Is. one may, any day during the season, purchase what in the sparsely supplied markets of England would cost two or three pounds sterling. The prices cur- rent of Melbourne show the cost of imported salmon pre- served in lb. tins to be from Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. per lb. (whole- sale). To a large firm going into the business of catching and exporting salmon in our part of the world, the cost of the stock would simply consist of the labour of fishing. Yet no house of importance has yet embarked in that lucrative enterprise. At certain times the caiions (or gorges) of the rivers are so crowded with salmon, that the navigation of canoes is virtually impeded. The Indians catch them with a pole, attached to one end of which is a transverse piece of wood. Into this are stuck tenpenny nails. Lean- Nl). ^ tlmt on {I aliDoii left J river to liicli is the cur.'S iiboiit 1 ill Juno it 4 to 72 lbs. lid August lbs. I 7 lbs. ,tc year in ably cured • s so called harp teeth, ale, is alto- II revenue, hite settle- he season, of England prices cur- ilmon pre- Ib. (whole- 3f catching the cost of ihing. Yet lucrative gorges) of navigation atch them transverse s. Lean- STL' UG KOX — 1 1 ALIUL'T. 107 ing over the gorge, they strike the nails into the lish, im- paling one or two at each descent of the pole. y)'i)i(f ma found in the waters of both colonies, and often weigh from 4 lbs. to (> li)s. In the numerous lakes and streams of Vancouver island, as well as in those of British Columbia, trout are to be met with of excellent llavour and are caught in winter with the utmost ease. In Lake Okanagan they may be taken out with nets in wagon-loads, and by wading in the water one may catch them with the hand without dif- liculty. A su))erior kind of trout abound in the lower Fraser, weighing 7 lbs. or 8 lbs., luid another of a smaller descrip- tion in the tributaries of that river. Mr. lirown states that twenty mountain-trout were recently caught in a stream near Hope, whoso aggregate weight was 140 lbs., and two of them weighed 1 1 lbs. each. In regard to the ytimjeon^ which is found in the rivers and lakes of British Columbia, the same gentleman informs us that it sometimes attains a weiujht of from lOOlbs. to 500 lbs. and upwards. From a female sturgeon killed in the Fraser some time ago, a bushel of caviare was taken. Fnmi the swimming bladder of this fish, isinglass can be made, equal to that so extensively shipped from tlui Eastern States of America. This portion of the fish is also used for fining malt liquor. Caviare manufactured from its roe is a favourite dish in Southern Eussia, and might be made an article of large export. Halibut are caught in immense numbers round the entire coast, but especially off the straits off Fuca. Their size is often enormous, and it is asserted by an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company that, in 48 hours' fishing, a vessel of GOO tons might be laden with them. The smelt^ which enters the Fraser early in spring, may be captured in hundreds. The haddock and whitimj exist, and the dog-fish teems 1C8 GENERAL RESOURCES OF VA^X*O^VER ISLAND. beyond conception. Dr. Forbes reports that as much as 2,000 gallons of oil have been obtained from this latter fish, in the season, by a very small tribe of Indians in Clayoquot Sound. Considerable quantities of this liquid are exported annually by the Hudson's Bay Company. A certain species of sea perch is found in abundance, often reaching from 61 lbs. to 81 lbs. in weight. Boch^ skate, bass, anchovy, and Jlat Jish, may be added to this list. Shrimps and prawns, too, are extensively caught in the neighbourhood of Victoria. Cod * banks are said to exist in Plumper's Pass and close to the north end of the island. A certain kind of seal is found at the mouth of Fraser River. In summer it is constantly to be met with drifting down with the current, seated on a log of wood. Another variety of this animal visits the coasts of Vancouver Island, and is shot by the Indians who trade in seal-skins. I have seen in the month of September whales innumer- able sporting in the Gulf of Georgia; but the most valuable species are found in more southerly latitudes. Specimens of oil from the whale, seal, dog-fish, and hoolakan were sent from the island to the Great Exhibition of 1862. The ' right whale' f fishing ground in the North Pacific extends from lat. 30° N. The 'sperm' whaUng ground * There is no cod in the waters of California, and a fishmonger in San Francisco told me that a ready market would be found in that city, at the rate of Is. per pound, for as much of this article as might be exported thither. t The Indians capture the whale with much ingenuity. Attached to their harpoon is a seal-skin, prepared so as to be air-tight. The head of the harpoon can be detached from the staff with a short rope made of cedar- bark. After the whale has been struck he soon makes his appearance above water, when the natives attack him with spears, and thus complete his destruction. ND. FACILITIES FOR FISII-CURING. 1G9 s much as latter fish, Clayoquot e exported ibundance, T be added ight ill the 3 Pass and I of Frascr ith drifting , Another iver Island, ns. 5 innumer- the most latitudes, -fish, and Exhibition >rth Pacific Qg ground ishmonger in that city, at be exported Attached to head of the ide of cedar- barance above [complete his % lies between lat. 20° S., and lat. 20° N. From the latter point to our colony whalers would have a safe and easy run, with the favouring influence of trade winds and an open sea. The morse or icalriis exists in denser profusion tlian in any part of the world, in the vicinity of the Aleutian Islands and Behring Straits. This is a branch of the Pacific fisheries that would prove very remunerative from the amount of ivory it is capable of yielding. These places could be reached in fourteen days' sail from Vancouver Island. The facilities possessed by both these colonies for catching and curing fish are pre-eminent. The indented character of their coasts signally adapts them to become important in the exportation of this article. Port San Juan, Barclay Sound, IS^ootka, Hespod, Koskeemo, Sooke, Esquimalt, Victoria, Nanaimo, and many other bays may be enumerated, including the inlets on the coast of British Columbia, 450 miles long — all convenient to extensive fishing grounds, and peculiarly adapted for sheltered fishing stations. The present rendezvous of North Pacific whalers is San Francisco and Honolulu, because those following this occu- pation on our coasts are for the most part Americans. But when the same British enterprise that has developed the fisheries of the North Atlantic is introduced in this ocean, whaling fleets will make their head-quarters in British territory. The salt springs existing on Admiralty Island and at Nanaimo, have already been referred to in this volume. A gallon of water from the latter place, when analysed, produced a pound of salt, while sea-water only yields 4J ozs. The spring on the island is capable of supplying a gallon a minute, the specific gravity of the water being 10-60. 170 GENERAL BESOURCES OF VANCOUVER ISLAND. What portion of the globe could be better situated for an export trade in fish, with respect to foreign markets ? To say nothing of California, with its rapidly increasing population, Mexico, Central America, and all the countries on the west coast of South America,* would immediately become customers were our fisheries entered upon with capital and vigour. European residents in China and Japan would swell the demand. The natives of these countries, who are proverbial for their consumption of dried and salted fish, would themselves gladly take from us as much as we could, for many years, conveniently dispose of. Nor is it unlikely that, as the commercial relations of these colonies with India become more intimate, large markets will spring up in that direction. Austraha and New Zealand will not be able to provide for their wants in this particular for fifty years — probably never. These southern colonies, therefore, present another field for the competition of future fish merchants in Van- couver Island and British Columbia. Notwithstanding the matchless inducements presented by the fishing wealth of this country to capitalists, scarcely a single individual or a company has as yet assayed to grasp the prize. The population of Newfoundland, which amounts to about 150,000, is sustained almost wholly by its fisheries. How magnificent must be the future of our colony of which the product now described is but one of manifold resources ! In proof of the importance attached by France to this source of national trade, it is well known that she pays from 530,000 frs. to 540,000 frs. a year to encourage it. Between 1820 and 1851 the Americans also paid ,gf8,000,000 in bounties on fish, and the same policy is still • Catholic countries are said to be great consumers of fish. (1 i ■ 3LAND. ' situated for ign markets ? ly increasing the countries immediately d upon with 1 China and ves of these [Sumption of y take from 3onveniently commercial come more It direction. provide for — probably sent another xnts in Van- FISHEBIES ON THE ATLANTIC. 171 pursued by them. To show the extent to which money is put m circulation by the fishing trade of the maritime provmces of British North America adjacent to the St. Laurence, it may be mentioned that tlie exports from these parts, beyond their own consumption offish, are valued at about eight and a half million dolfcirs per annum Newfoundland, 1862 Nova Scotia, 1860 . New Brunswick Prince Edward's Island . . A760,010 . 3,094,499 750,000 900,000 ^8,604,509 % is presented sts, scarcely assayed to amounts to ts fisheries. colony of f manifold nee to this Lt she pays courage it. also paid •licy is still fish. 172 OIIAPTEE n. AGRICULTURE IN VANCOUVER ISLAND. Remunerative Character of Agricultural Pursuits in the Colony — Climate — Soils — Fanning Districts — Yield of Crops — Prices of Produce and Stock — Relation of the Free-Port System to the Question of Markets — Expense of Farm Labour — Times of Clearing, Sowing, Reaping, &c. — Tenns of Agricultural Settlement. There is no branch of industry more strikingly neglected in this colony than agriculture. Yet it would be difficult to name an industrial pursuit more indispensable to colo- nial prosperity, or attended with larger ultimate remune- ration. The community can scarcely be said to have a basis of permanence while dependent so extensively on foreign neighbours, even for the common necessaries of life. The prevailing impression at a distance seems to be that our insular settlement is a forbidding aggregate of rock, mountain, swamp, and forest — almost unrelieved by a single patch of arable land — and that whatever insigni- ficant portions contain the elements of fertility, are so densely wooded as to render the task of clearing them at once unprofitable to capitalists, and impossible to those of narrower means. The hand of nature, it is admitted, has placed at human disposal, in this and the sister colony, a much smaller extent of bounteous soil, in proportion to gross area, than has been conferred upon the adjacent and more favoured 0. ony — Climate — uce and Stock — irketa — Expense &c. — Tenns of ;ly neglected 1 be difficult able to colo- ate remune- to have a tensively on 3cessaries of seems to be ggregate of irelieved by jver insigni- ity, are so ing them at to those of d at human ich smaller 3 area, than 'e favoured CLASS OF FARMERS WANTED. 173 States of Oregon and California. But past explorations — and those now in progress in the interior, limited thougli the space gone over has been — -justify the persuasion that there are large tracts of land in the several districts of the island possessing qualities that would abundantly reward cultivation, and capable of sustaining a population of mil- lions. With the knowledge of these facts, taken in con- nection with contiguousness to large and growing markets, it seems strange that farmers — skilful and respectable, but not rich — in England, and also in other parts of the British empire, should be content to struggle on, with high rents and low prices, while so tempting an opportunity invites them to become owners of land at a small figure, with the assurance of a superior market for their products. For the class of farmers to which reference has just been made, I know of no field of agricultural enterprise offering advantages to be compared with those found in our Pacific colonies. Of Canada, and to some little extent of the United States, I can speak from personal observa- tion. From all I have heard of Australia and New Zealand, these southern colonies present no exception to tlie fore- going remark.* At the opening of an auriferous country, mining and commercial enterprises assume, of course, a bewitching character, especially from the prospect held out in these undertakings of large and immediate returns. It is not unnatural, therefore, that immigrants, incited by excep- tional instances of brilliant success, should betray tlie romantic desire of suddenly winning the smiles and gifts of fortune. But their impatience may well be restrained, and their expectations moderated, by contemplating the * The substance of the remarks which follow was published by me in the British Colonist some years ago in two successive leaders, and time has only confirmed the view to which I then gave expression. 174 AGRICULTURE IN VANCOUVER ISLAND. bitter truth that in mining and trading speculations, blanks have usually been the rule, and prizes the exception. It is not intended by this remark to insinuate that the countrj^ supplies feeble inducements to men whose inclina- tions and abilities qualify them to succeed in these depart- ments. But it may with confidence be affirmed that, where farming is conducted in Vancouver Island witli a fair amount of skill, perseverance, and economy, a greater ratio of those who devote tliemselves to that branch of industry will, in a given term, attain comfort and inde- pendence, than of persons following any other sort of business. With the view of disarming the prejudice that has so signally retarded the extension of the farming in- terest in the country, and of supporting the statements that have been made, it is only necessary to solicit atten- tion to a few particulars which have not obtained the pubhcity they deserve. Climate. The climate of the island is rendered proverbially genial, productive, and salubrious, from an interesting variety of causes. The temperature of the Pacific coast generally is known to be much milder than that which obtains on the corresponding shores of the North Ameri- can Continent in the Atlantic. The isothermal line be- longing to latitude 40° in the latter ocean passes through the parallel of 55° in the former, thus rendering the climate of Fort Simpson equal to that of New York. For lucid illustrations of this principle, the reader is directed to consult the instructive work of Lieut. Maury, entitled, ' The Physical Geography of the Sea.' Blit the insular position of this colony, with other local circumstances, combine to secure for it a climate of singular equability and exemption from the somewhat more rigorous extremes CLIMATE. 175 ions, blanks eption. ate that the lose inchna- liese depart- irmed that, iland with a y, a greater t branch of t and inde- ;her sort of ejudice that farming in- 1 statements jolicit atten- btained the >roverbially interesting *acific coast that wliicli >rth Ameri- lal hne be- jes through the chmate For lucid lirected to ', entitled, the insular fumstances, equability is extremes to which the exactly opposite coast in the Gulf of Georgia is subject. The experience of colonial residents bears uniform testimony in support of this statement. We have the authority of eminent meteorologists for the action of cold under-currents flowing from the Arctic Sea, whicli lave the rocky foundations of the island during the hot season, and exert their tempering influence ftir beyond high-water mark. The Olympian range of moun- tains in Washington Territory, extending in an easterly and westerly direction, regale the eye in the rich sunshine. The proximity of their grateful summits, capped with eternal snows, tends to modify what must otherwise be the intense heat of midsummer. The prevailing winds at that season come from the south, charged with warm moisture drawn from the sea, and oppress with sultriness the atmosphere of northern regions in most easterly longi- tudes. But, by contact with the neighbouring snowy heights, the humid element of these winds is condensed, and their excess of caloric absorbed, so that they are transmuted, as by a magic touch, into breezes Mild as when Zephyrus on Flora breathes. A vast rush of warm water, supposed to originate at the equator, and producing climatical effects resembling those which result from the agency of the gulf stream in the Atlantic, softens the rigours of winter as the boreal action already described is believed to cool the scorcliing heat of summer. The phenomenon referred to is called tlie China current, from the foct of its sweeping, in part, tliat coast, on its curvilinear path across tlie ocean, to break upon the shores of Vancouver Island.* • Another of those currents makes its escape through the Straits of Malacca, and being joined by other warm streams from the .Tava and Chinese Seas, flows out into tlie Pacific, like another gulf stream, between the Philippines and the shore of Asia. Thonce it attempts tlie groat circle f ' V 176 AGRICULTURE IX VANCOUVER ISLAND. The temperature of the soutliern end of the ishmd i.s also agreeably cooled in summer by the descent of freshets from Fraser river. These, it is hardly necessary to ob- serve, are caused by the melting of the snow on tlie distant mountains in the interior. So great a volume of cold water cannot be thus carried down into the gidf without considerably reducing the temperature of the waters with which it mingles, and making its influence to be felt along the opposite shores, to which it is borne in a south-westerly course. From observations taken daily in Victoria during the years 18G0-61, at 9 A.M., 3 p.m., and 9 p.m., it appears that the lowest mean of the thermometer, in that period, occurred in the thirty-one days of December 1860, when the range of that instrument averaged 41° 22'. Twenty- nine days in July 1861, indicated the highest mean to be 60° 97'. At intervals of from seven to ten years, how- ever, as in Great Britain, winters of unusual severity are experienced, when snow hes on the ground for a month or six weeks. But with the exception of these extra- ordinary periods, snow continues for little more than a week; and sharp frosts extend over about a fortnight during the year. So mild is the cold season generally, that cattle can find enough food in the fields without special provision having to be made for their shelter and maintenance. Such an inclement season as has been named visited us in 1861-62, the year immediately following that in which a winter of corresponding severity occasioned in- route for the Aleutian islands, tempering climate, and losing itself in the sea on its route towards the north-west coast of America As with the gulf stream so with the China current The climates of the Asiatic coast correspond with those of America along the Atlantic, and those of Columbia, Washington, and Vancouver are duplicates of those of Western Europe and the British slands, — Phi/s, Geoff, of the Sea, pp. 161, 162. le island is t of freshets isary to ob- ow on tlio % volume of ;o the gulf Lire of the influence to is borne in (luring the , it appears that period, 1860, wlien '. Twenty- mea7i to be years, how- severity are for a montli hese extra- ore than a a fortnight generally, ds without shelter and ll visited us [g that in isioned in- itself in the . . As with limates of the Atlantic, and ^s of those of \, pp. IGl, 1C2. .1 METEOROLO(iICAL FACTS. 177 convenience to fanners in England. Tlie effects of that extronu'ly cold season reached as far down tlic coast as Soutliern California. The ice on the Fraser and Co- lumbia rivers was unusually long in breaking up, and the disappearance of it was succeeded by destructive floods, esi)ecially on the latter stream and on the Sacia- niento. The city of Sacramento was inundated, and agricultural interests damaged in Oregon and California by heavy losses of cattle and produce. The winter of 1863-04 was mild throughout. As this part of the subject is so important to intending settlers, with respect to considerations of health as well as to farming operations, let us take a past year at random to aid the reader in arriving at a satisfactory conclusion on the matter. A register kept at Victoria in 1850, cited by Dr. Forbes, E.N., shows that in that year 201 days were fine, 96 overcast and foggy, 97 rainy, and 17 on which snow fell. Still, it should be remembered, that under the two last heads all days are included on which eveti the smallest quantity of rain or snow fell. Dr. Eattray, E. K, attached to H.M.S. 'Topaze,' in Esquimalt Harbour, in 1860-61, carefully tabulated, for the use of the Admiralty, the state of the weather from the beginning of April to the end of March following in those years. Subjoined are the results of his la- bours : — No. of fine days 187 „ wet days 17 „ showery days 101' „ foggy days 17 „ days with strong wind 35 „ d.ays with thermometer below freezing . . .11 ,, dcays in which snow fell 12 N 178 AGRICULTURE IN VANXOUVRR ISLAND. liaromrtri'cal Olmcrmtiimx in the miiiv Vair, ^Mn.viiiMiin MiiutiniDi Mi'iliuiii Monthly rmigo Ch'oatoHt iliiily i'nn;.'-o .'iOCO ;j()-07 loO 101 'Tlic <:,nx>{itest (llfTcrcMce between tlie wet iiiul dry ])iill» tlienn()iiietei'8 was S-|° (June) ; it luus been observed tirf In^'li as lo° (oth ]\I.ay 1801), and the least maxinumi diflerence 2j,° (September).' From this com})arison we infer that even in October, the wettest month in the regis- ter, the atmosphere was remarkably diy — a fact of great interest to persons suflering from chest complaints, and familiar witli the raw, cutting damps common in the nortli of England in the begimiing of winter. The wind columns in tlie tables of Dr. Kattray show a prevalence of calm mornings and evenings, wliile days icliolly calm appear in the proportion of 1 in 10. The average force of the wind for the year was 1 j^,, the highest being 9. Distributed over twelve months the mean force would scarcely amonnt to a hght breeze. Out of eighty-tliree days, in which the wind was per- ceptible in any degree, southerly winds (chiefly S.W.) occurred fifty-six days=G7'47 per cent. ; northerly, eleven = 13'25per cent.; easterly, six = 7 "23 ])er cent.; westerly, six=7"23 per cent. ; variable, four. High winds are most frequent in April, and blow from the south and south- west. Winds from the north are rarely strong, even in winter ; but westerly winds, when they rise, blow with violence. As might be supposed, winds accompanied with rain are generally from the south. Traversing tlie vast Pacific in their course, they readily absorb a large quantity of moisture. In tliese ol)ser vat ions, taken at Es(|uimalt, allowance CLr>fATK COMI'AUKD WITH CAXADA. 17!) I ul dry bull) (bscrvoil as , inaxiiiiuni ipavison we ill the regiri- ict of great plaints, and luuii iu the ;tray show a while days n 10. The , the highest nieiui force lid was \)QV- liedy S.W.) lerly, eleven |t.; westerly, ids are most and south- \)ii(j, even in blow with ccompanied iversing the Borb a large .';? , allowance '■■> sliould be made foi* the more damp chara(;l('r of that place as compaied with Victoi'ia, the Ibrnier being situated in a more hilly part of the island. As the im])ression widely obtains that the climate of the colony resembles in severity that of Canada, it may not be uninteresting to demonstrate by the statistics be- fore mc the injustice done us by this erroi- : — llijtlitvl TliurnioniL'tor during' tlic Yi'ar I^iwpit Tliormmiii'tcr | AiiimwiI llaii»,'i' iliiriii;,' tlir Viar VancoiiviT Irilmul, 18«50-lS«U . 72° [ '2:\i° CiiniKlii 102" ;5(i° (l)olow Zfin) Loiuloii . 8(; '>00 if 'J'tiiipcriitiin' 1.5K' 151' Victoria being in nearly the same latitude with the south of England, comparison of their respective climates can be at once ap[)reciated by inhabitants of Gieat Britain. In Vancouver Island spring is later, summer drier, autumn longer, and winter milder. In London in a given year a writer on climate recoi-ds 178 days in which rain fell. In Victoria during 1800-01 the number of rainy days was under 118. The same author gives the annual mean hehjht of the barometer in London for the same year at 29'89.5, and the ramie for the year at 1-998 ; while in the south of Vancouver Island 1800-61, the mean height was 30*07, and the ramjcforthe year 1-890.* From October to March wc are liable to frequent rains, but this period of damp is ever and anon relieved by prolonged intervals of bright, dry weather. In March, winter gives signs of taking its departure, and the warm * I am under obligation to Admiral Fitzroy of the Board of Trade for permitting nie to examine the Meteorological Register of II.M.S, 'Ilecato,' which was employed in a surveying expedition on the coasts of Vancouver N 2 I 180 AOIIICULTURK IN' VANX'OUVKIl ISLAND. breath of sj)rinLr bc^fjins to cover tlu; trees with tinted buds aiul llu! fields with vei(hiro. Then be(;ome visil)K* the star-eyed and dehcately-bliie eolliiisia, the cliaste ery- throniuni, the searlet-blossoiiied hHes, and tlie •graceful trilhuni ; tlie sj)rin^' grass and young f'eru show promise of returning life ; the unfolding oak leaf and budding wild fruits {)roelaini that winter is gone. The sensations i)rodu('ed by the aspeet of nature in ]\[ay are indeseribably delightful. The freshness of the uir, the warble of birds, the elearness of the sky, the jiro- fusion and fragnuice of wild roses, the wide-s})read varie- gated hues of buttercu[)s and dfiisies, the islets and inlets, together with distant snow-peaks bursting upon the view, as one ascends sonic contiguous eminence, combine, in that month, to fdl the mind with enchantment unequalled out of Paradise. I know gentlemen who have lived in China, Italy, Canada, and England ; but after a residence of some years in Vancouver Island, they entertained a preference for the climate of the colony which approached affectionate cntlmsiasm. At the end of June vegetation reaches its jinnnal maturity. Its growth in that and the preceding month is peculiarly rapid. Showers are rare during summer, and Island ami British Columbia in 1802, the winter of wliich year was tho coldest experienced in the colonies for a very long period. Barometer Wind Thcr. Prv Bulb Pnmp Bulb 10° 0° 00° 00° Direction Force Coldest day, Jan. 15 jo ^,\^• ' ' l^o P.M. f 8 A.M. Hottest day, Aug. 27 ■ [Sr.M. 10° 12° 74° 09° Northorlv Calm * Westerly Calm 4 .•iO-4r, 42-.']l Tlior. at nodu. 91) 87 IIKAI.TII OF TIIH IMJl'UI.ATIOX. 181 iwh tinted iliU' visihlf ic {^'nu'C'I'iil iw pnmiiso id buddinj^ nature in iicss of the :y, tlic pi'o- )rciid viirie- I tuid iidets, )ii the view, combine, in ; uneqnalled ve lived in u residence ^tertained a approached its annual g month is nnmcr, and n 1 year was tho Thcr. Force 4 ,'iO-4r, 4l'-;u Thor. at noon. 01) 87 i wlien they do fall thoy are accommodating enoULrh to come at uigiit, when no one is inconvenienced by their dc t-.'i\t. In compensation for uniformly fair weather, we liiivi' heavy dews, whu !i cause the warmcNt diiys to be followed by cool niglits ; coni«fjuently a blanket is found acceptable in a part of tliu year when in England and Canada it would bc' int/'lerablc. The protnicted drynes:^ of smnmer often im]>arts to the soil a parched iippcarimce, but it is rather pasture lands than croi)s that suller tVom tliis inlhicncc. Tlie retVesh- ing showers of autunm, howevei", lasting till the middle of Xovember, clothe the grass a second time with verdure, wliicli it retains till after Christmas. The later part <jf the fall is known as the Indian sunnner. While treating of climate in connection specially with agriculture, I take the opjiortnnity which may n(»t occur airain in this volume, of glancing at the bearing of the subject upon health. No statistics of the ailments and mortality of tho po])ulation have thus far been kept, but fi'om the nature of the public duties belonging to my jirofession I was fjivourably situated for forming a correct opinion on these points. Those extremes of climate which, in the eastern and middle sections of the American continent and also in Australia, tend to absorb the juices of the system and render the complexion sallow, are absent in the colony, as in England, from the happy proportion of humidity incident to its insular character. The children of whites l)oin in the country, and brought up with a reasonable amount of care, are distinguished by a remarkably plump and ruddy appearance. Epidemics are uncommon ; and most of the diseases I have witnessed have been brouuht on by imprudence in the way of exposure or excess. Ilheumatic and bronchitic affections are sometimes to be 182 AGRICULTURE IN VANCOUVER ISLAND. found, but are almost entirely conllned to constitutions ])reviously debilitated. Catarrh prevails in the moist weather of October and November. But speaking from })ersonul experience, I am able to state that I never en- joyed more vigorous health in my life than during five years' residence in Vancouver Island. While living in England, never a Avinter passed without my being pros- trated by repeated attacks of influenza ; and though domestic conveniences were necessarily limited at so early a stage of colonial progress, I only suffered once in the colony from that cause. There is no naval station at which the crews of H. M. shi])s are so little subject to disease proceeding from cir- cumstances of climate, and none where mortality is so light. I know no locality so admirably suited for ex-Indian officers and merchants to retire to — a class to which climate, in their ad\anced age, is a primary consideration. Soils. It would have been advantageous to the interests of agriculture had the upheaval of the island above the surface of the ocean taken place at a much earlier geologi- cal period. From the unerring intimations of geology, in the character and distribution of its soils, we infer its recent elevation by volcanic agency. The character of the soil varies in the different districts. That which preponderates on the hvjher levels is of a poor gravelly description, with a thin layer of vegetable moidd, and covered by gigantic timber. This quality of soil exhibits deposits of northern drift which had ac- cinnulated in certain sections of the country while the laiid remained submerged — these places being just saved from absolute sterility by decayed foliage and grasses SOILS. 183 onstitutions tlic moist [\king from I never en- during five Ic living in being pros- \m\ tlioiigli I at so early once in the vs of H. M. ig from cir- rtality is so r ex-Indian is to which Dnsideration. interests of above the •lier geologi- I of geology, we infer its ?nt districts. is of a poor vegetable [s quality of :h had ac- while the just saved Ind grasses tlint liave for jiifcs been slied to CDver tlioir nakodnes;^. lhn\ a few nioi'o decades of centuries hap])cned to eliipse subsequently to tlie emerging of the island, and before civilisation was directed hither, tliere can be no doubt tliat the kind of soil referred to would have been innnensely improved. But it is not lud^nown in I^ngland and Canada that gravelly soil, unmntched for poverty by any in this island, has, by an admixture of clay and manure, been made equal to soils containing naturally most fertile qualities — the former element imparting tenacity for the retention of heat and mt)isture, and the latter creating a loamy ingredient. liich sandy loams are extensively found in the farming sections ; but usually, as might be exj)ected, in valleys — ancient lake or river 'bottoms,' and slopes of various dimen- sions. Tliis quality of soil is formed by the disintegration and decomposition of limestone and other n^cks in con- nection with different forms of aqueous action ; and when luiited, as it always is more or less, with decayed vege- table matter — which uives it a black or dark brown colour — it is excellently adapted for producing vegetables and very species of cereal. Clay chiefly constitutes the sub- e soil of the island, and from its tenacious nature neces- sitates careful draining of the particular deposits which rest upon it. In a district about a dozen miles from Victoria I have seen a single prairie containing not less than 400 acres of clear land where the .alluvial soil, con- sisting mainly of black loam, was at least a couple of feet thick. One of the most eminent British geologists lias some- where said that remarkably fertile soil is formed by the disintegration of volcanic rock, and that their component elements, — iron, alumina, potash, silica, &c. — are in the proportions Ijcst sidtedfor vegetation. From the metallic 184 AGRICULTURE IN VA^'COUVER ISLAND. discoveries continually coming to liglit in all parts of the island, as well as from tlie actual yield of crops, we are receiving unmistakable evidence of the productiveness of tlie soil, especially in the valleys. A(jricultural Districts. The following comprehensive statement of the Crown lands sold, unsold, reserved, and pre-empted in the colony uj) to December 18G3, appears in the report of a com- mittee appointed by the House of Assembly to investigate certain claims held in dispute between the Hudson's Bay Company and the Crown : — 1. The total number of acres in the colony, including every kind and quality of land, with the small islands belonging to Vancouver Island, is estimated at 7,598,215 acres, or 11,872 square miles. 2. The quantity of land sold in the 18 surveyed districts is 74,196 acres. 3. The quantity of land pre-empted in the surveyed and unsurveyed districts is 88,309 acres. 4. The unsold and unpre-empted land in each surveyed dis- trict is 92,264 acres. 5. There are 30 public reserves in the surveyed and settled districts, which contain 18,814 acres, besides which there are several small islands, of the acreage of which there is no estimate. There are 3 town lots in Government Street (Victoria), one at the foot of Broughton Street, and one 80 feet by 100 in Nanaimo. 6. From the foregoing statement it appears that the total qtiantity of Crown land unsold, including the reserves for the use of the colony, is 7,435,710 acres; and that the total amount of land sold and pre-empted is 162,505 acres. It shoidd not be forgotten that this calculation embraces a considerable extent of rock and swamp unfit for culti- vation. The late Surveyor-General of the colony states that in AGRICULTUKAL DISTRICTS. 185 )arts of tlic ops, \vc are ctivencfss of tlie Crown . tlie colony ) of a com- investigate nelson's Bay luding every belonging to s, or 11,872 d districts is [urveyed and lurveyed dis- and settled ;h there are no estimate. |oria), one at I in Nanairao. lat the total •ves for the lotal amount embraces It for culti- les that in the immediate vicinity of Victoria 100,000 acres of valu- able farming land exist. This, however, is all in private lumds. Colonel Grant, for several years a settler in »>ooke, gives it as his opinion that out oi five square miles in that district tliere is a moderate proportion of open land, ' the remainder tolerably level woodland.' One of the explorers of the gold mines recently brought under notice in that locality, reports that near the junction of Leech and San Juan rivers there is a oood field for agricultural operations — the concourse of miners 'sup- plying a convenient market for stock and produce. There are several large farms in the adjoining district of Metchosin, -which I can testify, from observation, are in a prosperous condition. The bulk of the land in that neighbourhood, however, is most adapted for pasture. In the Saanich peninsula, which contains an area of 37 square miles, there are at least 200 settlers, including women and children. These severally occupy farms ranging from 50 to 1,500 acres, and their holdings con- tain a high proportion of clear land, combining calcareous and arenacious properties, together with humus — these soils resting generally on a clayey but sometimes on a gravelly stratum. Oats, timothy, barley, wheat, all the green crop.^, and every sort of garden fruit, grow there in great perfection. The portions of Cowichan, Comiaken, Quamichan, Somenos, and Shawingan surveyed three years ago were 57,658 acres, of which 45,000 are deemed superior in quality, and the remaining 7,600 good for the general objects of agriculture. But the Surveyor-General esti- mates the extent of available land in Cowichan at 100,000 acres. I am firmly persuaded (says the Assistant-Surveyor) that, under 186 AGRICULTURE IX VANCOUVER ISLAND. a judicious system of farming, as good returns can he o])taine(l from these hmds as in any part of the continent of America. . . . Tiio loamy soils possess everywhere a depth of two or three feet, and containing a large proportion of the calcareous principle, are especially eligihle for fruit culture; and the oak-plains around the Somenos and (iuamichan Lakes, with a sandy clay sidj-soil, are exceedingly well adapted for fruit or garden purposes. lie then enumerates a large variety of native fruits which lie found growing wild on the meadow lands. There may be already settled in these places over 100 persons, so that numerous sections are still unpre-em])ted, and it is affirmed tluit a suflicient amount of good laud exists in them to provide farms for many hundreds of families. In the vicinity of those connected districts is Admiralty Island, better known as Salt Spring Island, from briny springs which it contains. Its area is 90 square miles. This district, already inhabited by 70 or 80 settlers, boasts much excellent land, which is beinf^; broucfht under cultivation as rapidly as their narrow means will permit. Many other fertile dependencies of Vancouver in the gulf only await the application of industry to render them productive. The land around Nanaimo is divided into four portions — the Mountain, Cranberry and Cedar districts, and the Delta plains — the extent of which together is put by the surveyor who measured them at 43,450 acres. In reference to the second of these that gentleman reports : ' The soil is sandy, but covered with the most luxuriant vegetation, fern, wild fruit, bushes, and trees ; among which, it may be noted, the crab-apple and cherry are everywhere found. The woods are, for the most part, open and free from brushwood and fallen timber, and l)resent quite a tropical appearance.' Of the Cedar dis- I D. COMOX. 187 n be obtained it of America, f two or tlireci ;ous principle, \e oak-plain.s 1 a sandy clay it or garden fruits whicli :es over 100 ipre-em])tetl, f good land hundreds of is Admiralty from briny quare miles. 80 settlers, ouGfht under will permit. Liver in tlie to render 3ur portions ts, and the is put by acres. In lan reports : t luxuriant ;es ; among cherry are most part, iimber, and Cedar dis- i trict but a small part is unfit for cultivation. ' The soil is very fertile . . . and abounds in beautiful springs of water.' In 18G1 Commander Mayne, E.N., in crossing from Alberni on the west to Nanaimo on the cast, saw a large tract of land which he pronounces admirably adapted for settlement, between Qualicome and Nanoose on the east side. lie states that the soil was quite equal to that in the already settled district of Saanich. ' We found,' says he, ' a great deal of excellent land in the valley of the Nanoose Hiver, which flows from tlie soutliward into the head of Nanoose harbour ; so that I am able to affirm that the whole country between the Qualicome River and Nanaimo is fair and in parts excellent.' The region of the Courtenay lliver, which empties itself into Augusta Bay at the head of Baynes Sound, is perhaps the most promising spot for settlement yet found in the island. This district is called Comox * (or Komoux), {uid is said to contain not less than 30 square miles of good farming land. Commander Mayne remarks on this scene of his explorations : ' Although we had been in- formed that there was some fine land there, the extent and beauty of what we saw quite surprised us.' * The following is an exti'act from a communication written by a settler in this district with reference to the harvest of 1804. * The crops in the settlement have been excellent this season, the farmers being well contented with their returns. Oats, barley, wheat, peas, and potatoes are the chief products. Oats have yielded as much as sixty bushels to the acre. One of the settlers, who has about six acres under cultivation, has raised over thirty tons of potatoes, a ton and a half of turnips, a large quantity of garden vegetables, and a small crop of splendid oats, beside wheat and peas. lie also cut over thirty tons of hay, sixteen tons of which were sold on the ground at $lo per ton. lie has nine head of cattle, including three milch cows, twenty hogs, and fifty chickens raised this year. From his three cows he made this season over 2001bs. of butter, for which he gets 37 j cents per lb. at the settlement.' Tliis person has only been two years in Comox, and is a fair example of what may be done by any industrious man without capital. 188 AGRICULTURE IN VAXCOUVER ISLAND. Tlie stream referred to for about a mile is navigable for large boats and small stem-wheel steamers. At this point it is joined by a river called Puntluch, which flows from the south-west through a deep valley, taking its rise probably in the great central lake, whence also emanates the Somass Eiver, that mingles on the west side of the island with the waters of the Alberni Canal. Just above the junction of the Puntluch and the Courtenay, on the left bank of the latter, the traveller finds himself in the heart of an immense prairie, extending in a north- westerly direction parallel with the coast for eight or ten miles. This important tract is abundantly watered by the Courtenay and some smaller tributaries. A dense wood surrounds the prairie, offering every facility for the purposes of fire and building. ' It took us,' says the naval gentleman cited above, ' a day and a half to walk over this land, through which a plough might be driven from end to end. ... I have no doubt that more good land will be found to lie between this point and the valley of the Salmon Eiver, which is GO miles north of it.' On the west bank of the Courtenay the soil is quite as good as on the east. 7,000 or 8,000 acres of clear land are known to exist there. Twenty-five miles above Johnstone Strait is Salmon River, and there is every probability of finding — when the country is examined — large patches of land in its neighbourhood well adapted for agricultural settlement. Adam's Eiver, a stream of considerable size, waters a large valley which contains much good land. This spot is about sixteen miles above Salmon Eiver, and five or six miles beyond Port Neville on the opposite side. Mr. Hamilton Moffat, in 1852, crossed the north part of the island diagonally from Nimpkish Eiver to Ncotka Sound, and he is the only white man that, up to tlis date, I'LEXTY OF LAND. 189 s navioiiblo I's. At til is ^liidi flows , taking its 'hence ali^o le west side !anal. Just Conrtennv, nds himself in a north- 3ight or ten ivatered by , A dense ility for the ^^s the naval walk over Irwen from p good land le valley of It.' On the as good as are known is Salmon ing — when and in its ttlement. , waters a This spot five or six lorth part Ito Ncotka 'ti;i::i date, has ever performed that feat. In the journal of his ex- j)l()ratory tour, we are informed that in the vicinity of Lake Kanus, in the course of the Nimpkish, the count ly he passed through was 'clear, with occasional belts of wood and brush, and abounding in partridges.' But it must necessarily be long before land distant from the coast will be settled upon, unless the discoveries of the precious and baser metals now taking place in rapid sui!- cession in certain parts of the colony should call into existence towns and villages, and thus afTord a market lor farmers. Judging from the successful results of past exploration along the 150 miles of coast on the east side we are already acquainted with, there is every reason to believe that considerable quantities of fine land will yet be met with, as the examination of the island advances, capable of sustaining a large industrious population. Apart from the lucrative market presented by the grow- ing city of Victoria and the coal depot of Nanaimo, the thrifty settler possesses an advantage unrivalled in any colony in the Atlantic or the South Pacific. I refer to the abundance of elk, deer, and wild-fowl with which our forests abound, and the incredible profusion of fish that inhabit our lakes and streams. Only a few scores of persons have, up to this time, found their way to the inviting districts north of Saanich and Cowichan ; so that it is in the power of thousands of hardy pioneers, determined to master preliminary dilPi- culties, proceeding thither without delay, to obtain choice tracts for settlement. If they can command 100/. or more on their arrival, to set their farms a-going, so much the better. Let them not murmur if, for a time, they may have to bear inconvenience, as far as frequent and speedy 190 AGRICULTURE IX VANX'OUVER ISLAND. c()ininiinlcati<>n witli Victoria is concerned. This privn- tit)n will only l)e transient, and must soon disappear in tlie course of colonial development. If any intending emigi-ant appreliend troubles from tlie Indians, it may be stated, for tlie i-elief of his anxiety, that these are generally magnified by the imngination of the inexperienced, and are at once divested of tlie alarm- ing character supposed to attach to them, when the settler comes lace to face with the aborigines. Another chapter will show, indeed, that, in common with savages elsewhere, they occasionally evince thievish and treacherous pi'open- sitics. But it is only simple justice to confess, that in most feuds between them and the whites, provocation is given by the latter. If in our dealings with them we are actujited by firmness, kindness, and integrity, there is little to fear from their presence. That they have sometimes been guilty of acts of wanton deception and improvoked cruelty toward colonists, must be admitted ; but as past outrages have made the authorities vigilant in the detection, and severe in the punishment, of their crimes, the natives are certain to become less and less dangerous. As the tribes have been so fiercely alienated from each other, and en- gaged in internecine wars for ages, no such conspiracies could ever be organised by them against the Avhites as have been plotted by the Sioux of America, or tlie Maories of New Zealand. In fact, as tribes, they are universally well-disposed toward our race. Emigrants coming at this early stage of colonial growth, ignorant of the amount of land held by companies and jirivate individuals for a considerable period, expect, per- liaps, to be able to select for purchase sections within easy distance of Victoria on merely nominal terms; and are consequently surprised to find farms, partially under cul- LAXD INCRKASIXG IN VALUK. lUl TIlis j)iiv;i- lisappeur in Il's from tlio his aiixic'ty, aizinatioii of - the alann- n tlie settler :lier cliaptei* s elsewhere, oils propel i- tliat ill most on is given [ire actuated little to fear 3times been )ked cruelty ast outrages tection, and natives are lS the tribes ler, and en- conspiracies e whites as the Maories universally lial growth, ipanies and ixpect, per- within easy s; and are under cul- ■I tivalion, valued at a figure so much higher than they had antici[)ated. The Hudson's ]jay and Tuget i^ound Coin- panics, with certain ollicials of those companies, in their [)rivate capacity, own in dilTerent districts an aggregate of at least 15,001) acres of land, the price of which, several years [)revious to the present law of pre-emption being passed, was 1/. per acre. If, however, the varied mining resources of this and the sister colony continue to develoj) favourably, as they give full promise of doing, Victoria will unquestionably expand into a vast entrepot. A pi-ac- tical farmer with some capital, therefore, who succeeds in buying from the present proprietor, with a view to settlement, 400 or 500 acres of land, anywhere within iifteen miles of Victoria, tolerably open and par- tially improved, at from 10/. to 4/. per acre, according to distance from town, may esteem himself fortunate. Before us is the analogy supplied by Melbourne and San Francisco, likewise emporia for gold-bearing countries. Around these cities land has in the last twelve or f(jurteen years lisen in value several scores of pounds per acre ; and it is certain that money invested in districts con- venient to Victoria Avill, in a similar period to come, be multiplied a dozen-fold. In proportion as the area of agricultural land adjacent to the city is limited — that is to say, in view of the large supplies which that market will eventually require — so will be the great value which land of good quaUty w^ill attain. It would be a benefit to the colony, as well as to a certain class of our farmers — some poor and others thriftless, under whom rich lands are lying comparatively waste — if they could be super- seded by enterprising and intelligent men, who would ofl'er the farmer a fair consideration to quit. Xor would this course be otherwise than advantageous to llie new occujianls. 192 AGRICULTURE IN VAN'COUVER ISLAND. The comparatively limited extent of land fit for culti- vation in the island has somcthne.s been adduced as an arf,'ument against encouraging the immigration of ])oor settlers. But if the statistics brought forward above be correct, no country on earth can compete Avitli it in secui'- ing comfiDrt to the laborious farmer. Amateur ' gentle- men' farmers arc strictly cautioned against risking their means in agricultural speculations here. Unless men can cither work themselves, or apply careful and experienced supervision to the labours of emj)loyes — having at the same time large means to expend — they are distinctly advised not to emigrate as tillers of the soil. But it will be time enough to raise this objection about scarcity of land when all that is available on both sides of the gulf has been turned to account. While it must be acknow- ledged that the future prosperity of both these colonies depends, for the most part, on their metalliferoiis cha- racter — not losing sight, however, of the special commer- cial advantages of Vancouver Island — still, the assertion may be hazarded that they contain sufficient arable land to sustain whatever population may devote their energies to agricultural occupations for hundreds of years. Be- sides, tlie limited extent of land in the country which is alleged (allowing, for the sake of argument, that the asser- tion were true), enhances the inducements offered to those who are willing to come early into the field. Demand for any article which is scarce augments its value ; and on the supposition of our mineral resources being so abundant as eventually to build up important and permanent centres throughout the country, large and profitable markets will be furnished to agricultural pro- ducers near their doors. Moreover, the very paucity of cultivatable land, within easy reach of a town, would, under these circumstances, necessarily give propiictors I YIKLl) m-' CHOI'S. 1U3 it for ciilti- uct'd as Jill un of poor I above be it in seciir- ur 'geiitlc- isking their jsa men can jxpcrieiiced /ing at tlie e distinctly But it will , scarcity of of the gulf be acknow- 3se colonies iferous cha- al commer- le assertion arable land sir energies ^ears. Ee- ry which is the asser- ed to those gments its resources important large and Itural pro- paucity of ■vn, would, proprietors entire connnand of the market, thus placing th 'u ;il)ovc com[)etition with farmers furtlicr oil', and rai .lig, in a corresponding degree, the value of their land. These remarks, it nuiy be mentioned liere, iind present verification in British Columbia ; and as cities of yet greater mjignitude than those now in existence rise up in tliat colony, it will become increasingly evident that fanners in their vicinity possess an advantage over all com[)etitois in the same occupation in the neighbouring American territory, whose products, imported to the British side of the border, would be heavily chargeable with freight, to say nothing of duties. The extreme Avestern districts of the United States and Canada are sometimes pointed to, and a contiast instituted between the vast prairies for which these parts are extolled in relation to our more circumscribed and less bounteous soil. But it should be considered that the value of land situated so inconveniently to market as in the case just referred to is proportionately low, and the ci'o[)s unrenui- nerative. If, therefore, Wmcouver Island and British Columbia advance as ra})idly as we anticipate, a farm(?r in these colonies will realise a competency more quickly than he could, with the same means, in the other districts of the continent that have been specitied. These results cannot, of course, be brought about in a day ; and (3nly those emiiirrants are invited to cast in their lot with us who are prepared to exercise thnt amount of energy and endurance requisite to secure the promised reward. Average Yield of Crops, (Jr. A medical gentleman, whose lengthened residence in the colony and special enquiry into this department of farming statistics gives weight to his statements, writes : — 'The average production of wheat is 25 to 30 bushels to 194 AGRICULTUUU IN VAN'COUVKIl ISLAND. tlie acre, 04 lbs. to tlic hiishcl ; of oats, 40 bushels to tlie acre — weij^lit, 80 lbs. to 40 ll)s. ; potatoes, 200 bushels to the acre, and of superior quality. All vegetables succeed much better in Vancouver than in Ore^«)n or Washington Territory.' This remark a[)i)lies also to butter. The potatoes grcnvn in the colony cannot be equalled, and our turni[)H, carrots, onions, peas, cabbages, &c., cannot be surpassed, for size and Ihivour, in any part of the world. 'Tiie following,' says Dr. Forbes, 'are tlie usual quantities of seed sown per acre : Of wiieat, one and a half bushels ; peas, two and a half bushels ; vetches, two and a half. The yield of barley varies, according to the cultivation of tlie land, from 24 to 40 l)usliels per acre.' The following table, pre])ared by Dr. Kattray, exhibits the yield per acre of land in Vancouver Island as compared with that in England, Ireland, and Scotland : — AViii;lit )ipr Ent'lanil Scotland Ireland Viincnnver Islaiiil l)ii<li('l in V. ImImikI (cstl- Wheat . . liiutetl). 4 qrs. 3i nrs. 3 qrs. 4 qrs. (»2 lbs. liarli-y . . '11„ r> „ 4 „ J 1 50 „ ( )ats . . . 5 ;, <*' „ 4^ }> 4i„ 38 „ Potatoes . 04 „ (iO „ — 25 „ Pras. . . 'H „ '5 » •T „ ^ „' Tiivnips . , 20 tons 25 tons 25 tons 15 tons Clover (cut preen) . c„ ^> M 09 4 „ Gardens 25 fold 25 fokl 30 fold 25 fold Tares . . f30 to ■ 40 tons 35 tons (f-reen) .'J3 tons 35 tons (green) [ (};recn) (g'reen) Hops thrive in the colony, and find a ready sale among brewers, whose operations are lucrative and extensive. Flax also would become a profitable article of production, * At the Agricultural Exhibition held in Vancouver Island in October last, peas were shown weighing 72| lbs. to the bushel. 1 1 STOCK. 105 sliuls to the ) bushels to »lcs succeed Washiugtou Litter. TIjc ed, and our cnnnot bo ' tlie world, id quantities all* bushels ; and a halt'. .dtivatit)u of •ny, exhibits IS compared ■Wcislit por r hiHlicl in V, Islauit (c.-itl- nuituil). sale among extensive, production, [ind in October provided wr had (lax-mills at work and were prepared to extract oil liom the seed. This, after its contents have been expi'essed, is converted, in Canada and elsewhere, into a cake, which is said to be highly nutritious as food for cattle. Stock. Five-sixtl s of tdl the stock used in the country is still imported fi mu California, Oregon, and Washington Terri- tory, and large ))rolits are often realised from its importa- tion. Trolits have, therefore, to be paid by the consumer in Vancouver Island to grazier, importer, and retailer. I have known persons bring horses from California to supply men about to start for the mines, invest in the transaction 200/., and net 4.j/. from the sale of tiie animals Avithin six weeks from taking their i)assiige for that American Stale. In a similar way have I known an enterprising cattle- dealer lay out in California .^00/. upon oxen, sheep, I'^.c, for Victoria, and within a few weeks place to his credit 150/. as the result. For success in this business nuic-h de{)ends upon practical knowledge. Among American horned cattle are to be found sonui excellent breeds. Durhams and Devons have been in California for many years. Spanish cattle abound on the coast, and are good beeves, though of a small description. The Californian sheep have long horns and thick wool, and, when crossed with Southdowns in the island, the breed is much improved. Horses can be had in California in almost every variety, from the thorough-bred racer to the most miserable hack. The Holland or Clydesdale breed, however, are not often to be met with. A quantity of native horses are imported occasionally from the Sandwich Islands ; and in proof of how admirably the colony suits them, it may be stated that some of these, o 2 196 AGRICULTURE IN VANCOUVER ISLAND. fetcliiiig only 10/. per head when they arrive, get to be worth, after being put to grass for a time, from 25/. to 30/. Oxen are generally used for ploughing and other kinds of heavy ftirm-work, and are in growing demand. Mares increase at the rate of 75 per cent., cows 90 per cent, (weight 375 lbs.), sheep 100 per cent, (weight 50 lbs.), hogs 1,000 per cent, (weight 150 lbs.). Fern-roots, wliich teem in the island, afford staple food for tlie last-named of these animals. But to keep them tame and prevent them from being lost in the woods, they should have a stated feed of peas once or twice a day. Pork is a favourite dish with the Chinese, and, as it is also tlie chief sort of animal food in use among the mining population, it always commands a high price. A list of agricultural imports on a succeeding page will give an idea of how little has yet been done in the rendering of ourselves independent of foreigners for tlie supply of this article. A rare opportunity is here offered to skilfid Yorkshircmen, familiar with the art of curing bacon, for makinsf a fortune. The small area of Vancouver Island docs not admit of grazing being carried on on so immense a scale as that branch of agriculture in the colonies of the southern hemisphere, where thousands of acres of pasture-land have been bought for a trifling consideration. But in the larger adjacent colony of British Cohnnbia facilities exist for the breeding of cattle to an indefinite extent. Prices. The most hasty inspection of the prices obtained for some kinds of produce, and particularly for stock, is sufficient to create excitement in the prosecution of island farming, as the gold of Cariboo has attracted minino- adventurers. rillCES OF I'llODL'Ci:. 1117 ', get to be 25/. to 30/. other kinds Liid. iows 90 per (weight 50 staple food keep them woods, they ivice a day. md, as it is 5 the mining , A hst of vill give an rendering of pply of this d to skih'id I bacon, for lot admit of ale as that le southern lasture-land But in the cilities exist nt. btained for r stock, is on of island ted minhig Hay sells at from 5/. to G/., and rose during tlie s})i-ing of lcSG2, after a severe winter, to IG/. per ton. New potatoes fetch od. ])er lb. retail; wheat has been sold in tlie colony at 8.s'., and oats at Gs. per bushel. Tlie large yields of wheat in California and Oregon, and the frequent shipments of flour from those States to Victoria, make com- petition difficult on the part of our farmers for tlie moment, in these commodities, liut the establishment of grist-mills at distances convenient to the forming settlements would place colonial producers, with respect to this {U'ticlc of import, in as favourable a position as they could desire. Fat oxen are worth from 30/. to 40/. per yoke ; cured bacon, wdiich sells in the Atlantic States at from 5(/. to G^/., and in Oregon at from Gd. to 1},d. per lb., readily brings in Victoria from 7-\d. to 8f/., and from S],d. to 10(/. per lb. respectively. The retail price of beef is 10^/., and of mutton Is. per lb. Butter that in the Atlantic States (H)sts from 7 Id. to 10^/. per lb.,* and in California from 10(/. to Is. hl^d. per lb., is sold in the island, retail, at from ].s. lOd. to 2.9. Id. per lb. Island butter (fresh) can be disposed of to any extent, and sells retail at from 2.y. 7(/. to Ss. per lb. Island eggs, in the most abundant season, are sold (retail) at 2^-. 7d. per dozen, and, if imjiorted, at 2.S'. Id. per dozen. I have known the latter article sold at Christmas as high as C)s. per dozen. In the Victoria ' Prices Current and Shipping List,' under the head ' Grain,' is the following hst of goods, Avith the prices affixed : — "Wheat — Califoniia . Parley „ . . . Oats — Colonial ,, California rib. 3 )> ^ >i n j> 4 * These American prices arc; according' to the gold and not the yrccnback standard, and apply to times of poaeo. i 198 AGRICULTURE IN VANCOUVER ISLAND. Peas — whole . „ split Beans — Bnyos, California „ white „ ChiU . pink . Under the head of ' provisions' : — per Ih. Cents 5 7 3 3 3 Vovk Beef — Mess, California „ EasteiTi . „ American clear Hamburg Hams— English, per lb. clear „ „ halfbbls. . „ Oregon .... „ Billings .... Bacon — Sides, extra clear, Eastern California per bbl. ^8 @ 10 8 „ 10 halfbbl. 22 IG 28 24 18 i) »> Butter — Isthmus „ Oregon Cheese* — English Lard — American, 101b. tins Oregon » kegs per lb. 2o @ 25 22 25 16 22 22 47 37 18 10 19 V Cents 28 18 25 50 25 20 We are supplied with fresli milk at the rate of 2.9. 1^/. per gallon in summer. In winter the price is higher. For some time after my arrival in the colony it cost 4*. 2cl. per gallon. To those who are prepared to embark in farming, having capital sufficient to engage in this pursuit exten- sivelj% my advice would be that they should make their green crops subservient mainly to the feed of stock, and lay out as large a portion of their land in timothy grass as possible, as retimis from hay and cattle are always certain and remunerative. In tliese items, together with * The manufacturo of this product is as yet unknown among us. I rilUDUCE IMrOIlTED. 109 nts 5 7 3 3 3 Cents 25 @ 9r^ 22 25 10 22 22 47 37 18 10 19 Cents 28 18 25 50 25 20 e of 2.9. Id. is higher, cost 4^. 2(L in farmiiiix suit exten- make their stock, and iiothy grass are always >'ether with l)iittcr, fowls, and eggs, competition with foreign supplies need never be feared. Some beautiful orchards have been already planted in the island, varying in size fi'om 25 to 5 acres. A])pk's, pears, plums, cherries, and all the bush-fruits of England, grow in great perfection. A gentleman in Oregon, who has an orchard of ten acres, seven years old, informed me that it netted him 1,000/., or at the rate of 100/. per acre per annmri. There is no reason why an orchard of tlie same age in the colony, if duly attended to, should not realise to the proprietor at least 130/. per acre per annum. Amount of Agricultural Produce Imported into the Colony. To demonstrate how jiowerful are the inducements held out to industrious and intelligent farming immigrants in the colon j^, I subjoin statistics of various agricidtural pro- ducts imported into Victoria in 1803. I have prepared the statement with care from the general retiuii of imports for the year : — Article ]5acou . Barley . lieef . Bran . 1 ieans . Butter* Bread . Cattle . Eggs . I'lour . Fruit . Viiliie ^o;5,2ii 44,2:50 8,559 9,071 10,008 00,231 5,403 3,217 5,924 172,521 10,377 Carried forward . 405,472 Article Value Broug lit foi ward . 405,472 Hams . 2,981 Hay . . 13,50(5 Hops , 10,Hi(0 Hogs . 9,170 Horses, . 38,:504 Oats . . 1:'.,0:}9 Pork . 0,304 I'otatoes 7,7:5(> Salt . 323 Sheep . . 10,42:{ "W'getablea 8,82:J l^otal V alue . ^53:j,o;}7 * This is all salted or * powdered.' The more southern latitudes from which this article comes are not so well adapted for the making of butter as ours is, in consequence of their being subject to protracted periods of drought, which is prejudicial to the manufacture of dairy produce. Our nioister climate gives us a decided advantage in this respect. 200 ac;kiculture in VA^'couvJ<:K island. Here "vvc liave imported from foreign countries in one year, into an infant city of not more tlian 5,000 inhabitants, farming products, valued in round numbers as per invoice (wholesale) at 106,000/. sterling, every one of which articles could have been produced in tlie colony. It is true that a considerable proportion of these were intended for con- sumption in British Columbia, but having a market so near and so good — independently of that furnished by our own island population — it sup])lies an argument all the more forcible why a stimulus should be given to agricultural enterprise among us. Some have looked upon tlie perpetuation of the free- port system as suicidal to agricultural prosperity. If, however, the kinds of produce that flourisli in the island can be raised at the same expense as in California, Oregon, or Washington Territory, it is evident that our farmers must be more favourably situated than producers in these States who may attempt to compete with us in supplying our market, since they have not only to bear charges of transit from the interior, where they reside, to the place of shipment, but also freight thence to Victoria. The latter item, especially, our farmers are enabled to save. Being close to market, moreover, and all our vege- tables with certain of our cereals being superior to what are imported, they secure a preference among island consumers. Did we possess a general protective tariff, the higher prices agriculturists would then have to pay for tnanu- factured imports would considerably outweigh any little advantage they might gain in that case over American neighbours in disposing of stock and produce. If, on the other hand, the system of protection were confined to articles strictly agricultural, it might be attended with loss to the community at large, but could not sensibly benefit colonial producers. CLEARING AND SOWIXCJ. 201 tries in one inhabitants, per invoice lich articles s true that cd for con- market so irnished by ■gument all e given to 3f the free- !perity. If, I the island California, nt that our n producers with us in >nly to bear reside, to ;o Victoria, enabled to 1 our vege- ior to what Lono; island tlie higher for manu- 1 any little r American If, on the confined to 3d with loss bly benefit If with so little talent, energy, economy, and cai)ital the majoritjj of our farmers manage to keeji their heads above water, their condition would be incalculably im- ])roved by possessing a larger share of tliese qualities. The free-port system should be guarded intact in its ])i-esent state, so that not even the shadow of any custom-house official might ever be allowed to fall on it. For if once the principle of taxing imports be acknowledged, it will be impossible for the local government under financial pressure in the future to resist temptation to extend the application of it from articles of agriculture to those of conmierce. The transition from the one to the other is easy. What then would be the result? The chief clement of our strength and progress would be hopelessly im- paired. The charm with which Victoria is now invested — as distinguished from all otlier cities on the North American shores of the Pacific, and by which she brings t(3 her feet connnerce from every part of the globe — would be broken, and thr.t unlucky diiy woidd be cursed by ])osterity when the first conception of protective policy to farmers cast an incurable blight upon conunercial interests. Clearing, Times of Sowing, i^'C. There are open lands in the colony already fit for the plougli, and from which a crop may be obtained without any exertion in clearing. But even the richest prairie soil cannot entirely dispense with preparation for plough- ing. Where loose surface stones or small boidders liappen to be imbedded, they should be first carefully removed. If there be no dense weed or stumps, the land should be broken up, in the first instance, by one or more yokes of oxen, as the former may deem necessary. These animals are preferi-ed for strength and steadiness of draught to the ordinary horses of the coinitry. i 1 202 AOKICULTUKE LV VAN'COUVER ISLAND. If fern prevail on the land, it should be ploughed up in the heat of summer, in order, by exposure of tlie roots to tlie rays of the sun, to destroy them. These "with all bulbous weeds, such as crocuses, kamass, &c., should be collected and burned. Fern-land, not required for immediate use, may with advantage be left for hogs to buiTow in, as they form valuable pioneers. Land covered with pine is not difficult to clear. Tliat tree, being of a resinous description, burns freely, and its roots creep close to the surface. Nor is it requisite for sowing the first j^ear's crop that the stumps should all be removed. In Canada this is a work cxtendintr over years, and the settler can adapt the quantity of land he clears to the means at his command. The roots of oak descendini*' more vertically into the ground are not so easily eradi- cated. The cost of clearing an acre of timbered land is put by the Surveyor-General of tlie colony at 8/. But where a man, assisted by a family of lads, works him- self, the expense would not equal half that amount. After clearing, draining and ditching should receive early attention. I am convinced from observation that where the land is level — favouring the collection of sur- face w^ater — the benefit of good drainage to the crops will, in two years, more than make up for its cost. Some advise that the rotation of crops in virgin soil should be : after the ground has been left to a summer fallow, wheat sown in October ; then a crop of peas, oats, or wheat again, and then a fallow made for turnips. By this time it is estimated the land will be well cleaned. After turnips, a crop of barley or oats should be raised, followed by potatoes. After the land is subjected to this cleaning process, it is advised that it should be manured, and then placed under the four-course system adopted ill Great Britain. But, instead of following impJicitly AUTUMN CULTIVATION. 203 oiighcd 11]) •f tlic roots !se with all kc, sliould 'quired for or hoiifs to o car. Til at Ay\ and its iquisito for oiild all be over years, le clears to descending isily eradi- red land is it 8/. But [Vorks lum- ount. d receive [\tion that ion of sur- the crops ;ost. V irgin soil a summer )eas, oats, nips. By 1 cleaned. be raised, ted to this manured, a adopted implicitly these or any other directions respecting the sowing of crops, the settler will act more wisely in following the method dictated by expediency. It may be stated generally, however, that the time for sowing oats, barley, peas, and tares, is from the middle of March to the end of April ; and the time for i-eaping these crops, from the 1st of August to tlie end of September. Potatoes are planted in March and April, and gathered in the early part of November. Turni[)s, gathered at the same time, are sown in the six weeks between the 1st of June and the middle of July. Autumn cultivation is not yet common in the colony. Besides wheat — which ought to be sown in October, that the young plant may gain strength to withstand the frosts of winter — there are certain fodder plants which .should be put in about the same time. Tliese specially deserve consideration in connection with stock-raising. There are clovers — red, Dutch, and Alsike. The last-named is the best of perennial clovers, and produces a thick crop of forage. The crimson clover (Trifolium incarnatum) forms licli fodder for cattle in spring, if cut when in flower. Lucerne {Medica<jo sativa) comes up in spring, a foitnight before the clovers or rye-grass. It is most congenial t(^ a light sandy soil, Avitli a calcareous subsoil. With proper care this will yield a crop for eight years in succession. Common bird's-foot trefoil [Lotus coniiculatus) is highly luitritious, grows on dry elevated pastures, and is con- sumed with avidity by cattle. From the great depth to which its roots penetrate, it is protected against injury from drought, and succeeds in retaining its verdure after tlie grasses and otlier plants are burnt up. Common saintfoin (Onobri/chis uiticus) also continues in perfection for many years, and ought to form part of all ])ermanent pastures. Common tares or vetch (Vicia .miicu), hard 204 A(J11ICULTU11I': IN VAN'COL'VEU ISLAND. fescue grass (Festuca durmsciila), sliecp's fescue (Festiwa oriti(i), Italian rye (Loliuiu Jtalicum), and common rye- grass (Loliiun perenne) — all these i)lants, sown in juitunm, Avill produce in spring an early and a bulky crop, and should, without d(!lay, engage the notice of island larmers.* Owing to our proximity to the gold-mines, farm-labour is scarce, and this operates as a serious hindrance to the development of agricultural resources. Yet the rate of wages olFered to larm-scrvants is about double what ob- tains in England. While in the parent country they receive 21. 8.s'. per month without board, in Vancouver Island they are paid 4/. per month ivith board. The intending emigrant will naturally desire to know what progress has been made in the colony as to roads. He is informed, in reply, that the Government has spared no pains in meeting this want. Within a radius of twenty miles of Victoria, in every direction, superior roads are made. Settlers in the remoter districts of Cowichan, Nanaimo, and Comox, however, are for the present at a discount in this respect. But a small steamer and several sailing-vessels call at the various settlements on the coast periodically, and afford farmers an opportunity of receiv- ing stores and letters from Victoria, and of sending their produce to market. From Comox there is a trail all the way to Victoria ; but it is continually Hable to be inter- rupted by the fall of trees after a storm. Every year will witness a rapid extension of roads where they arc required. ' An Act to provide for the Eepair, Improvement, and Regulation of Eoads in Vancouver Island and its Depen- dencies,' was passed some years ago. It was therein appointed ' that every male person over ten years of age, * For these hints on autumn tillage I am obliged to the communication of a gentleman of great experience in such matters. TKRMS OF SETTLI:MEXT. 205 3 (Fcstncd unoii rye- II uutiimii, nd yliould, ers.* rm-l.'iboiir ice to the lie rate of } what ob- ntiy tliey Vtuicouvcir } to know 3 to roads, lias spared 5 of twenty roads are Cowichan, ^esent at a nd several 11 the coast of receiv- ding their rail all the be inter- very year they are [ment, and ps Depen- is therein |irs of age, Immunication ^ and every male and female entitled to any interest in any real estate in any of the road districts, sliall perform six days' labour iqxjii tlie public highway, with extra days if proi)eity be extensive. This labour nitiy be compounded at the rate of six shilhngs and three[)encc — the rate of a man's labour — per day. A cart or waggon, with a pair of horses or oxen, is equal to two days' labour — or twelve shillings and sixpence.' The iirincipal articles ibr working and stocking a pre- empted farm are: an American plough, 4/. to 5/.; a waggon, 40/. ; a good horse, 20/. ; a yoke of oxen, 30/. to 40/. ; sheep, from 1/. to 1/. IS-v. per head ; hogs, '2,],d. per lb. on foot ; hay, 5/. per ton ; cows, 7/. per head ; fowls, from 4.s\ to Q)S. each; wheat, G.s. 3^/. per bushel, for fowls. Many a farmer, notwithstanding, has commenced work in the island with little more than one or two needful imple- ments, procuring other requisites as he could. Terms of Settlement. The upset price of surveyed land in the agricultural districts is 4.y. Id. per acre, one-fourth of which amount must be paid when the purchase is recorded, and the re- mainder in successive instalments, extending, altogether, over four years. In tiiose portions of the country which are still unsurveyed., the farming emigrant could enter into freehold possession by pre-einption. This system enables the settler to acquire land without any payment being called for till it is surveyed. From the date of survey he is required to meet his obligations to the Government in annual instalments, and at the same rate as in the previous instance. When the claim is registered, a recording fee of 8.s*. 4c/. is charged. By this arrangement any unmarried man, above eighteen years of age, being a British subject, or 200 liavi A(JRICULTURE IX VANTOUVER ISLAND. ing, as an alien, taken the oath of allegiance to the Crown, may pre-empt 150 acres; a married man, having a wife resident in the colony, 200 acres ; and for each child under eighteen years of age, resident in the colony, he is entitled to ten additional acres.* Considering the rival advantages offered to the poor emigrant in New Zealand, the South African Colonies, and the United States — all of which countries are so much easier of access from England than this part of the world — it would be desirable for the local government to mnke, for a certain period, free grants of land to bona fide settlers. While such strenuous exertions are being used, and libertd inducements presented by New Zealand and the States to bring emigration, we cannot hope for the rapid settlement of these North Pacific colonies with poor but industrious farmers, unless we endeavour, in some measure, to imitate the example of those more advanced countries. * For the most recent land-proclamatiou in cxtenso see the Appendix. 207 ICO to tl le- an, huving I for each :hc colony, ) the poor ilonies, and e so much le world — t to make, ide settlers. and liberal 10 States to . settlement industrious !, to imitate Appendix. CIIAPTEU V[I. nrjTisii coLUMniA. HISTORICAL SKirrCH. — GKOLOGV, ETC. Seaboard — Sir Alexander ^fackonzie — First Triidiii"' Po.st — Tludsion's Rav Company's reyime — C}eol()}fical Formation, British Columbia lies between the parallels of 49° and 55° N. lat., and contains, together with Queen Charlotte Island, the chief of its insular dependencies, an area of about 200,000 square miles. It is boiuided on the south by the frontier of the United States, on the east by the; llocky Mountains, on the north by Simpson's lliver and the Finlay branch of Peace Eiver, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Its coast-line, as has been already stated, measures 450, and the average breadth of the colony is from 350 to 400 miles. Its greatest length diagonally, from corner to corner, is 805 miles. Like Vancouver Island, the seaboard of British Columbia is broken by numerous inlets, many of which are navigable by steamers and sailing vessels of moderate draft, and will undoubtedly be brought, sooner or later, into use as mediums of communication with the forming and mining settlements rising up in the interior. While the exploration of the adjoining colony was accomplished by navigators approaching it from the west, British Columbia was originally entered by civilised enter- prise from the east. 208 imiTISII COLUMDIA. 'riu; Quebec Fur Conipuuy foruied in IG2!), the Hudson's ]5iiy Conipiiny in 100',), and, sul)se(]uently, tlie Noitli-West Company, vied with each otiier in extendinj^ their respec- tive huntin<'-ii;rounds northward and westward, lint the eternal snows crowning the gigantic range of the Uoeky Mountains seemi^d to hid resistk'ss ik'liance to all further advance toward the Taeilic till the heroic Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in 1700, crossed at the north end of the range, and succeeded in tracing Peace liiver and the Frasei' to their sources. That name will remain indelibly inscribed on the page of history as belonging to the first white man who set foot in British Columbia. The romantic story of Lewis and Clarke has made familiar to many the thrilling adventures of these leaders of the pioneer-band who next, in the year 1804, passed the formidable barrier n^ferred to. In 1800 tlie first fur-trading post ever established in British Columbia was erected a short distance from the great bend of Eraser liiver by the oflicer of the Hudson's Bay Company, after whom that stream was named. It was not long before the country — known then as New Caledonia — was dotted with the factories of the company. In 1821 a termination was put to the fierce hostilities that had for many years embroiled the Montreal or North- West Company in bloody confiict with the Hudson's Bay Company, and these two trading bodies, burying the hatchet, were merged under the designation of the latter. In tliat year the united companies obtained a charter guaranteeing to them exclusive trade in these regions ; and to their posts the native tribes ' brought the furs of the black and silver fox, the bear, the sea-otter, the fisher, the marten, the beaver, the musk-rat, the lynx,' &;c. This lucrative monopoly the company enjoyed till 1858, when the coiuitry — added to the list of British ITS PHYSICAL fllAUAdKIl. 'J(l!» e Hudsoii's (orth-WVst itir i-LS|)t'('- [. lint the the Kot'ky all furtlici- Alexiuult'i* ' the ruiij^fc, e Fi'iisei' to :y iii!S(;ri!)(j(l white imiu lias niaclo icsu leaders 804, passed tablished in e from the e Iludsoii's named. It en as New company, hostilities or North- idson's l>ay rying the the latter, a charter e regions ; the furs of otter, the the lynx,' ijoyed till of British colonies, to be govei'iKMl uiidci" the direction of the Crow ii — was emancipated from tlu' ri'strictive dominion of thr fui'-ti'ader, and thrown open to th" free enterj)ris(' of civilisation. 'J'lie large inllux of pojuilation in that yciii', consequent on the discovery of gold, has been ali('ad\ enlarged upon in comiection with the history of VancouviT Island. 'V\\i} Ijcidoijii and p/ti/sictil (/cof/nt^ilii/ of Hiitish Colunibiii alike derive their character primarily from the pii'scncc of the liocky Mountains. This great chain, I'unning frcMii north-west to south-east, forms the (f.rls of c/i'i'tiflon of tln' western coast of North America. It is of volcanic^ forma tion, and is subject to the action of eruptive and elevatory forces to which the craters of Mount Helen, Mount Kanier, and JVlount Jiaker answer as safety-valves. This mountain range consists generally of igneous hypogcnic rocks, flanked by silurian deposits, cond)ine(l with auriierous rocks, which also in part overlay the first-named of these strata. In tho vicinity of the 49th parallel this rangn is mainly com- posed of contorted, false-bedded, stratifit'd rocks, very full of ripple mark, with some interstratified basaltic traps. Tliesc; beds rest on a gnelsso-granitic mass, which is exposed at 1*( iid- Orielle Lake, about half way between the Colum])ia and Kootanie rivers. This granite is the general geological axis of the country, and divides the inialtered rocks of the eastern slope from those of the western side, which are principally black slate and lime- stone, contemporaneous with the lower beds of the K(K'ky IMountains ; but they are very much altered and disturbed botli by granite and greenstone rocks. It is remarkable that only one greenstone dyke is exposed to the eastward of Pend-Orielle Lake (in the valley of the Kootanie Kiver), while the amount of metamorphism in the rocks increases as we pass westward from the Columbia to the Pacific, or valley of the Fraser Kiver. 210 BRITISH COLUMBIA. This great range then runs in a north-west and sontli-east direction, at an average distance of from 350 to 400 miles from the coast. Parallel to this, running in the same general direc- tion, is the coast range, which sends down, westerly, numerous rugged mountain-spurs to meet the sea and to form deep inlets. This range, composed of plutonic, metamorpliic, and trappean rocks, permeated throughout by a system of metalliferous quartzose veins and trappean dykes, sends off a branch known as the Lilloet spur, to terminate at the Fraser Kiver west of Hope. Between the range and the spur is enclosed a chain of lakes which, with their portages, are of great importance as a means of transit to the upper country. A succession of elevated plateaux of the tertiary age stretch westerly from the base of the Rocky Mountains and their flanking ridges to this Lilloet spur of the coast range ; and cutting its way through the frijd)le materials of this deposit, bursting through the mountain passes at Yale and Hope, the Fraser River with its golden waters flows onward to the sea, bringing down in its spring and sutnmer torrents those lighter particles of gold which, accumulated on its banks and bars, have been the means of directing attention to and developing that amazing wealth of the rugged upper coimtry whence the noble stream derives its springs of life. Sweeping on past Yale and Hope, the river leaves its rocky barriers behind, and, rolling on in graceful sweeps, passes the rising city of New Westminster, to empty its flood into the Gulf of Georgia. During the latter part of its course it flows a tranquil steady stream, through tertiary and alluvial deposits, carrying with it sedimentary matter, to be deposited as banks and shoals, the nuclei of future * green fields and pastures new.' The colony of British Columbia, which thus extends its western borders to the sea, has a noble barrier for the protection of its shores. An outlying ridge, another parallel chain of mountains — cut off, however, by the sea from the continent with which, in its physical geography, it is connected — forms an archipelago of islands, the chief of which is the sister colony of Vancouver. The whole northern and western sea-face of British Columbia, GEOLOOICAL FEATURES. 211 south-east miles from leral direc- , numerouH form deep id trappean letalliferons ,nch known ver west of rl a cliain of ortance as a I of elevated the base of i this Lilloet 1 the fiial)le intain passes ilden waters and summer mulated on g attention igged upper of life. es its rocky , passes the lod into the lurse it flows ial deposits, ed as banks ,stures new.' extends its e protection lei chain of e continent -forms an er colony of Ih Columbia, as far south as Howe Sound, is a rugged mass of plutonic, trappean, and quartzose rocks, with associated semi-crystalline limestones. Cut up by numerous inlets and arms of the sea, ii needs no protection against the winds and waves, but sends out its adamantine promontories to meet them. Far different, however, is the coast-line from llowe Sound or Burrard's Inlet southwards. Stretching in a semicircle, tin; convexity of which touches the foot-raiige of mountains abovi; Langley on tlip r'-^-^-er, and reaching south, past Ik'Uinghaiu Bay, into Unittii States territory, is a deposit of loose friablf vsandstones and alluvium, the same through which the Frascr -River cuts its way. These sandstones at Burrard's Inlet and at Bellingham Bay contain seams of lignite ; the associated friable .sandstones, where hardened and partially metamorphosed, show- ing impressions of a dicotyledonous plant allied to maple. All geological evidence tends to prove that the last uplieaval of this continent and outlying islands was slow and gradual. occurring in the post-pleistocene or most recent tertiary epoch. And the existence of this belt of sandstone and alluvium, which is of such vast importance to British Columbia, is due in tlu; first place to the upheaval and deposition of alluvial matter; in the second place, to the protection of the outlying insular bar- riers, Vancouver Island and its dependencies.* This quotation from tlie excellent |)amplilet of my friend is given at length because it contains the most compre- hensive geological descripticm of the colony I have seen, and the document from which it is taken is very little known in England, not having been published here. At the entrance to Harrison Lake, and on both sides of that sheet of water, there are boulders of granite and quartzose rocks; gneiss with garnets; mica-schist Avith garnets ; slate, and masses of white quartz, giving metalli- ferous indications. Most of the mountains surrounding the lake are composed of trap, with micaceous, talcose. Forbes, p. 7. 1. •"> 212 BRITISH COLUMBIA. and horiil)len(le schists, resting at varior angles upon it. All these are more or less cliarged with iron, the oxidation of Avhicli is thought t(.) have produced tlie disintegration of these rocks. Not far from the moutli of the Harrison, on the right bank, is found a mass of trachytic rock, wliich lias evi- dently been erupted, liaving also shattered and dislodged the rocks adjacent. Tliis rock, which is of volcanic origin, contains white quartz, showing the presence of silver and copper. The quartz-vein dips northerly, overlaid by tlie trachytic rocks. Subordinate veins of quartz radiate in all directions, permeating the trachyte. The geological features of this locality may be regarded as a fair type of the formation on the entire eastern side of the lake. It has been briefly described as ' a region of primary metamorphic and volcanic rock, crossed and recrossed by trappean dykes and veins and seams of metalliferous quartz and quartzose rocks, which form the central axis of the mountain range, have on their flanks transverse ridges and spurs of trappean rock, bedded and jointed ; resting on which, at various angles, lie the meta- morphic schistose rocks, which, again broken through, disturbed and shattered by successive intrusions of volcanic rock, have in many instances undergone a second meta- morphosis, and show an amorphous crystalline structure, accompanied by segregation of metal into the permeating veins.' On the road between Douglas and Lilloet is found an argentiferous rock of a pale blue colour, with masses and strings of quartz running through it. Sulphuret of silver, argentiferous pyrites, and specks of gold are met with, associated with iron pyrites, in cubes and other forms. Numerous faults and slips exist in the trappean range. As far as they have been examined, the rocks on the I GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. 213 ;s upon it. oxidation ntegnition L the right h has evi- dislodgcd inic origin, ' silver and aid by tlie radiate in e regarded jastern side a region of L'ossed and 1 seams of ih form the heir flanks Dedded and the meta- through, of volcanic cond meta- structure, permeating found an masses and et of silver, met with, her forms. range, cks on the from Hope to Colville are of the igneous and meta- moj'phic series. A mountain near Hope appears to be of granite, tipped witli slate, and interspersed with masses of white indurated clay, containing fi'agments of white quartz. Tbis formation (says Lieutenant Palmer, I?.E.) may be said to consist of granite with its felspar decomposed and reduced to a state of indurated clay ; it extends to the dividing ridge of the cascades, and partly into the valley of the Tulameen. In the latter valley may be seen vast masses of white quartz; in all probability the exposed face of the rock, which, with granite, constitutes a large portion of the district, extending into the Semilkameen valley. On approaching the summit of the Tulameen range, the quartz partially disappears, and is replaced by a species of variegated sandstone, in which traces of iron occur. To what extent the sandstone prevailed I had no opportunity of judging, the weather being snowy while I was there, and the rocks, as a rule, imljcdded in peaty turf. As we leave the Tulameen mountains and descend into the valley below, indurated clay appears to predominate to a con- sideral)le extent. This clay varies in character as we approach the Vermilion Forks : a portion I noticed near that point l)eing a white silicate of alumina, mixed with sand. On one specimen which I picked up were the fossil remains of the leaves of the hemlock. Further down in the Semilkameen valley the clay acquires a slaty texture, and becomes stained with iron to a greater or less extent. Blue clay also exists ; only, however, in small quantities. The mountains bordering the Semilkameen consist chiefly of granite, greenstone, and quartz, capped with blue and brown clay slate. The beds of both the Tulameen and Semilkameen are covered with boulders of granite of every description and colour ; of greenstone and of trap, and vary in form and size. Boulders of the same character prevail on the river-bottoms to a greater or less extent. Like that of most other explored parts of British Columbia, the geological character of this region 214 BRITISH COLUMBIA. appears to indicate the high probability of auriferous deposits. In the lower portiun of the Sernilkameen, and near the ' Bi^ Ik'nd,' gold was discovered shortly after I passed through by some of the men attached to the United States Boundary Com- mission. Report pronounced the discovery a valuable one, as much as ,^40 to the hand being taken out in three hours without proper mining tools. The Cariboo district, which embraces spurs of the Rocky chain, is so singularly contorted and erupted as to be represented as ' a tumbled sea of mountains.' Their characteristic feature is, that the granite of which they are partially composed is permeated, as elsewhere, with masses of quartz. The beds of some of the streams con- tain large quartz boulders and a kind of slate rock, covered with red gravel, said to bear resemblance to the rich gold-bearino; regions in the south of California. 215 LIS deposits, r the ' Big :hrougli by idary Com- ,ble one, as urs without LPS of the pted as to ,s.' Their diich they here, witli 'earns con- ;k, covered ) the rich CIIAPTEE VIII. GENEEAL DESCRIPTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. Sccneiy in the Passage from Victoria to Fraser Hirer — Cascade Eange — New Westminster — Imports — Shipping Returns — Customs Kevenue — Hates of Duties Leviable — Government Buildings — Churches — Langley — Sumass and Chilukweyuk — Ilamson River — Douglas — Diary of a Journey thence to "William's Creek — Cariboo — Table of Distances — Hope — Yalo — Rapids — Lytton— Clinton — William's Lake — Routes via Bentiuck Arm and Bute Inlet — Routes to Shuswap. Steamers ply regularly between Victoria and New Westminster, performing a voyage of about eighty miles in seven hours. The trip across the Gulf of Georgia in fine weather is uncommonly interesting, especially to one accustomed to the landscapes of Western Europe. For alternate beauty and subhmity, the scenery passed through cannot be equalled by any to be met with on the coasts of the Old World. In traversing the placid waters cultivated tracts are beheld westward in the districts of Victoria and Saanich. Our course, at times, leads through narrow and lonely passes between pine-clad islands, and flocks of mallard, widgeon, and sea-gull ever and anon present a tempting spectacle to the sportsman. The coast of the colony appears fringed with dense forest, sometimes growing on flats, but generally covering mountains of various shape and grade. These granitic and trappean ridges terminate in peaks, varjung from 1,000 to 10,000 feet high, and are timbered half way to their summits. 21G GENERAL DESCRIPTION OP BRITISH COLUMBIA. A considerable distance behind the minor ranges, the Cascade chain runs nearly parallel with the coast at a distance of from sixty to one hundi'ed miles from it. The loftiest lieiirht in this ran<'e is Mount Baker. It is situated in lat. 48° 44' N. in American territory. It is 10,7(10 feet high, and towers far above every other object visible from the Gulf. It was seen from Victoria several times, after dusk, during my residence there, in a state of eruption. At length the mouth of the Fi'aser is reached. On either side of the entrance to the river, sand-bars have been formed by river-drift, and extend five miles west- ward, opposing, howxn'cr, no dangers to navigation which a reasonable amount of caution may not avoid. As we ascend, the maple, the alder, and the cottonwood appear in the vicinity of land that is liable to periodic inunda- tion from spring Hoods. Higher ground is occupied by cedars and majestic pines. The prodigious size of these giants of the forest is beyond even what the backwoods- man of Canada is prepared for. Fifteen miles up the stream from its mouth is New Westminster, the infant capital of the colony. It stands upon a slope inconveniently steep for extension into a great city, though possessing facihties for anchorage by no means despicable. This site was chosen by Colonel Moody, late Commissioner of Lands and Works in the colony, for the strategical advantages which it oilers in case of war with our American neighbours, and the space ^\■\\l doubtless prove ample for all future requirements of a town built in that location. Should the colony of Vancouver Island be eventually luiited with British C( )lumbia, and one parliament be agreed upon to legislate i'or both. New Westminster will serve admirably for the seat of Government. It is in no respect desirable lA. IMPORTS TO NKW WESTMINSTER. 217 ngcs, the oast at a 1 it. The T. It is y. It is ler object Victoria lere, in a bed. On 3ars liave iles west- ion which . As we 3(1 appear c inuncla- iupied by p of these ckwoods- 1 is New It stands )n into a orage by f Colonel in the oHers in the space jments of ;olony of British legislate ably for desirable that Victoria, the naUu'al depot of connnerce for the entire region, should also in that event be the political centre. New Westminster, which had no existence till 1859, is the present port of entry for British Columbia, and the following statistics may be taken as a fair index of tlie degree in which, since that time, it has prospered. All imports pay duty at this point. Comparative Quarterhj Statement of Imports. First quarter Second quarter . Third quarter . Fourth quarter . 18ii2 iKca 155,172 1,154,242 005,1)14 405,511 4(5 00 08 88 .'57(5,01(5 752,082 574,:;2:5 40(5,014 7.'J 70 00 28 2,800,840 01 2,100,0:J7 70 Total Value of Imports hito the Colony of Britli^h Columhla dur'imj the Years 18G1, 1862, 1863. 1801 1802 1808 ^1,414,.300 73 2,800,840 91 2,100,037 70* Tlie value of imports entered at the custom-house during the quarter ending 31st March, 1864, is ,^459,417 88c. The value of imports during the corresponding quarter last year was /$'37 5,010 73c., showing a difference of )i^84,014 15c. in favour of this year, a very satisfactory advance under all the circumstances. * The difference in value between the imports of 1802 and 1803 is mainly attributable to the large quantity of live stock imported in the former year from Oregon and Wasliington Territory by overland route, via Rock Creek. Besides, there was an extraordinary rush of immigration in the former of these years. 218 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. SIIIPPINa RETURNS. Cowparative Statement of Number of Vessels and Passengers Entered Inwards at the Port of New Westminster diirlnf/ the Years 18G0, 18G1, 1862, 1863. 1800 1801 1802 1803 No. of VCSM'lS rossc'iigcrs 337* 228 27(5 243 5,270 2,233 (5,400 5,103 1,084 10,102 CUSTOMS REVENUE. Comparative Statement of Customs Revenue {exclusive of Road Tolls) during 1859, 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863. 1850 . . , . ^88,045 89 1800 . . . . 171,010 03 1861 . , , . 181,701 04 1802 . . . 284,017 04 1803 . . • • . 270,101 10 Comparative Statement of Customs Receipts from January 1 to March 31, in the Years 1863 a7id 1864. Duties Harbour dues Head money .... Tonnage dues Warehouse fees In. nav. licenses . Fines and seizures . Lauding waiter's trips . Total Increase on the quarter 18C-t ]8(;:j £ s. 13,142 108 10 303 10 010 5 1 25 4 3 6 (/. 11 8 £ s. (I. 0,031 3 10 213 2 3 235 4 037 10 14 12 41 10 38 13 20 8 G £14,554 15 • • • 1 £10,832 10 1 . £3,722 5 Passengers entered during the above period: 1863, 1,176 ; 1864, 1,519. * Includes a large number of miners' canoes. ' BIA. SKETCH OF NEW WESTMLVSTEll. 210 Passengers ster during 'a«s<'iigt'rs C,270 (),41>(J 5,103 10,102 ?XclusivC of I, 1863. 13 )4 54 iO \n January 1 64. 18(i:3 ,G31 3 10 213 2 3 235 4 G37 10 14 12 41 10 38 13 20 8 ,832 10 1 ,722 5 [od: 1863, 1 Jinh'.'^ of Duties of Customs now Levlahle at New Westminster 'U]>ou Goods and Articles Imported into British Columbia. .1. ii. Flour, per barrel . . 3 IJ IJacdii, snlt niul dried pork, pur lb 1 IJcnns, per 100 lb. . .13 IJiirley, per 100 lb. . .13 J'.uttJr, perlb. . . 2^ I'andles „ . . 2^ I^ard „ ..01 Pace, per 100 lb. . . 3 TV Ton, per lb. . . . 2^ ('olVfe „ . . . IJ Sugar „ . . .01 Air and porter in bottle, piT doz. . . .18 Ale and porter in wood, per gallon . . .07 Wine in wood and bottle, per gallon . . .21 On all otlier articles a duty of 10 Bitters, per gallon IJlankets, per ]niir Cheese, per lb. Opium, „ Dried iiah, „ Salt fish, „ Chinese medicated wine per gallon . Dried vegetables (Chinese), per lb, . Salt vegetables (Chinese) per lb. Spirits, per gallon Horses, oxen, mules, per head . Sheep and goats „ Tobacco, per lb. Flour, 196 lb. per barrel . per cent, on the value thereof. I. (/. 2 1 2 1 2i 2 l" 1 OJ 3 n 1 Oi G 3 4 2 2 1 GJ 3 n New Westminster contains several hundred permanent inhabitants and several buildings of brick and stone that would do no discredit to a city twenty times its size. Tlie plan of the town is divided into a number of blocks, varying in size, and averaging 6 by 4| chains. Each block is subdivided into lots measuring 66 feet by 132 feet. Among the public buildings of New Westminster the most prominent are the Government buildings, which include the offices of Governor, Colonial Secretary, Trea- surer, Master of the Mint, Colonial Assayer, and Colonial Auditor. There is a hall and an engine-house connected with the Hook and Ladder Company, which comprises a body of volunteers banded together for the purpose of extinguishing destructive fires. A colonial hospital has also been built here. 220 GEXEUAL DESCRIPTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. Tlit3 Roman Catliolics arc represented by a blsliop and several priests, wlio minister to the rolij^ious wants of l)()tli innnigi'ants and aborigines. TlieChureli of England has a place of worship, with a rector and archdeacon resilient in the neighbonrliood. It is [)ro})osed by the ]5ishop of Columbia to secure the appointment of a new bishop for the diocese of British C(jlunibia. Dr. Hills, as embryo Metropolitan, would then reside in Victoria, Vancouver Island. The new chief pastor, when ordained, will take his title from New West- minister, where he will also have his episcopal seat. This step, like the large accession that has recently been made to the coloniid clergy, has been severely criticised by the press of these colonies as entirely pre- mature, and is considei-ed by many laymen as a culpable Avaste of religious funds. It is tliose who sustain the mission and tliose who are benefited by it, however, that nuist be allowed to determine what is the best course to adopt in the matter. The collective white population of both colonies is 15,000,* and it is believed that the natives do not exceed that number. Not more than two chiuTlies in both colonies put together are adequately self-support- ing. 500/. is annually expended out of mission funds to sustain two schools in Victoria — one for boys and another for girls — the number of pupils in attendance at the larger of the two being forty or fifty. About twenty clergymen are salaried, besides one or two ladies, one bishop, and two archdeacons. This staff is deemed by many more thaii sufficient to meet the present spiritual requirements of the colonists, Avithout the appointment of a second bishop. There cannot be fewer than thirty-five ordained pastors already in the colonies, including Roman * It is confidently expected that the mines of Kootanie will, this year, add 20,000 to the population. I IBIA. Tin-: LOWKR KRASnU. 221 bishop and s wants of of England archdeacon secure the of British ttui, would L3 new chief New West- seat. as recently n severely iitirely pre- a cidpable sustain the wever, that [t course to pulation of the natives o churches ilf-support- n funds to lid another Lce at the ut twenty adies, one eemed by t spiritual intment of thirty-five ng Eoman ill, this year. Catholic ])riosts. EstiniatiiiLf the present white and abori- ginal population at .'j(),00(), we have a pi'oportion of one ])iist()r to less than each thousand, lint more than one h;ilf of those clergymen belong to the Episct)pal Church, wliile its adherents, as compju'ed with the other religious bodies put together, are vastly in the minority. It does seem, therefore, that the cost of the episcopid organisation is out of proportion both to the s])liere of o|)ei-ations and to the results that may be expected to follow for mnny years. The PresbytcM'ian Church of Canada and the Wesleyan body have also their respective ciuu'chcs nnd ministers. In proportion to the extent of the po[)ulation of New Westminster, it is of a more homogeneous jind permanent character than are the inhabitants of Victoria. Tiie municipal affairs of the place are conducted by a mayor and corporation. Commodious steamers are in waiting at the former place to convey freight and passengers to the head of navigation on the Lower Eraser in one direction, and on Harrison Lake in another. The first ])oiiit of special interest reached after leaving the cajntal is L;ingley, situ- ated about 30 miles from the mouth of the river. Here is an old and extensive trading fort of the Hudson's Bay Com])any. Tlie land around the Fort, which lias been cleared of heavy timber, produces excellent crops. In the garden attached, vegetables grow in luxuriance, while; the apple-trees are loaded with fruit. The sites chosen for the forts of the company are generally on the bank of a lake or river sufficiently elevated to command the sur- roundhig country. The establishment is constructed of hewn timber, and includes fifteen or twenty houses. These consist of one or two for the accommodation of officers and clerks ; others affording quarters for labourers and mechanics. Spacious storehouses are likewise enclosed 222 GENERAL DICSCRIl'TION OF BHITISH COU'MHIA, for the reception of goods and furs, witli sliops for cni- pentors, coopers, and blacksmiths. A powder-niai^axiiu' is added, built of stone or brick; the entire struct tire is protected by a st(x;kade 15 or 20 feet hitrh, inside of which, near tlu^ top, is a gallery v/ith loopiioles foi* mus- kets. This ])ii'ket-\vork is Hanked with bastions, of wliich there are generally two placed at diagouid (corners ; tiiese mount several small [)ieces of cannon, and are also am[>ly pien^ed for nuisketry. Seen from a distance these forts are rather formidable in appearance, and tlK)Ugh ('aj)abl(< of ofTering l)ut slight resistance to artillery, have been found sudicient to overawe the Indians. The broad and fertile prairies at Sumass and Cliihik- weyuk next come into view, which are overflowed by freshets once a year. It must be confessed, however, that the banks of the river, for the most pait, do not convey a remarkably encouraging impression of the agricultural capabilities of British Columbia. Tall and dense forests, tangled with undergrowth, circumscribe the prospect in many places, and togetlier with the mounttuns visible in advance of the traveller, impart to the scenery an as[)ect of wild and gloomy grandeur. The scenery on the Lower Fraser is thus eloquently described in a despatch of Governor Doughis : — The banks of this river are almost everywhere covered with woods. Varieties of pine and firs of prodigious size, and large poplar trees, predominate. The vine and soft maple, the wild apple-tree, the white and black thorn, and deciduous bushes in great variety form the massive undergrowth. The vegetation is luxuriant, almost beyond conception, and at this season of the year (summer) presents a peculiarly beautiful appear- ance. The eye never tires of ranging over the varied shades of the fresh green foliage, mingling with the clustering white flowers of the wild apple-tree, now in full blossom, and filling the air with delicious frngrance. As our boat, gliding swiftly I THE DOUGLAS ROUTK. 223 foi" cnr- lauji/.iiu' iclmv is iiside of for mus- )f wliicli •s ; tlii'.sc so {uui)ly CSC lorts capiiMc Lvc been [ Cliiliik- )wc(l l)y 3vcr, lluit t couvcv •iciiltural e forests, aspect ill risible ill 111 aspect oqucntly ■red with and large , the wild jushes in eifctation is season appear- ;d shades n<x white nd tillino- g swifd}' I over the smooth waters, oceasionally swept beneath the over- hangiii;^ Ixaighs that form a canopy of leaves impervious to the sun's rays, the effect was enclianting. Tliirty-livc miles above Laiiglcy is tlic dcbouclic of tin; narrison, and tlu; conlluciicc ut' tiiat stream with this Frascr. Fifty miles from the mouth of Harrison River, and at the head of the lake of the same name, is Doiiulas, on the route to the mines of Cariboo, vid LiUoet. 'J'his lake is surrounded by lofty and rugijjcMl mountains, ch-ft to thi* base by hideous fissures, capped with snow, and in general presenting a singularly Inirrcn ap})caraiicc. The hamlet, which bears the name of the first governor of the colony, stands upon the margin of the hike, and the possibility of its enlargement would seem to be precluded by rocky heights, almost })recipitous, in its rear. But other routes to the northern mines are likely to abstract from Douglas the lion's share of the traflic which it has hitherto enjoyed ; so that the confined space allotted by Nature to the growth of the town will not probably be felt as a serious in(!onvenience. Without continuing any formal description of the Douglas route, I will take the liberty of appending a eojiy of the diary of a miner which gives a much uiorc gra- phic idea of the difficulties of personal locomotion for- merly involved in a journey to Cariboo than any other delineation could do. Happily engineering skill has, since the trip now to be depicted was undertaken, completely triiunphed over these obstacles, and now a good waggon-road has been constructed, running over the entire distance from Doug- las, except where lakes intervene. The route via Yale, to be hereafter described, is favoured with similar advan- tages. Instead, therefore, of the journey occupying as 224 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OP BRITISH COLUMBIA. formerly from 23 to 30 clays, it can now be comfortably performed on foot in less than half that time ; and should the miner be able to indulge in the luxury of stage tra- veUing, the time will be abridged in proportion. Tlie following paper, not before published, has been kindly placed at my disposal by the gentleman who pre- pared it : — Diary of Journey to WilUaiyi^s Creek, Cariboo, May, 1863. May 8th. — Left Victoria at 9 a.m. Arrived at New West- minster at 4.30 P.M. Had a pleasant passage, the day bein^ warm and calm. Put up at the ' Mansion House ; ' slept in my own blankets on the floor in company with several others, free of charge. Saturday, 9th. — Left New Westminster for Douglas at 3.30 p.m. Anchored at dark, 40 miles up the river. Slept soundly on the saloon floor. Sunday, lOth. — Started early; got into Harrison River at 8a.m. Great contrast between the two rivers— the Fraser very muddy — the Harrison as clear as glass. The scenery on both is beautiful ; enjoyed it very much. Arrived at Douglas at 3 P.M. Travelled 12 miles further on ; pitched our tents in the bush. Monday, llth. —Got up at daybreak; cooked breakfast, and started for the head of Lilloet Lake, distant 17 miles. Arrived there at 3.30 p.m. Could not sleep at night for mosquitoes, the tent being full of them. Tlie road from Douglas to the lake is one continued * gulch ' between two ranges of mountains, called the * Cascades.' In some parts they are nearly perpendicular, and rise to a great height. The distance between Douglas and the lake is 29^ miles. About 20 miles from Douglas there is a hot mineral spring, said to supply relief to rheumatic patients. Jts chief constituents are sulphur and soda. There are road- side houses every few miles, where meals can be had at a dollar (4s. 2d.) each. The scenery is beautiful, the river running almost parallel with tlie road, and the mountains with their snow-clad tops towering on either side. IS with tlieir yiBIA. comfortably and should >f stage tra- m. 1, has been [in who pre- Mayy 1863. t New West- he day bein^ ' slept in rny il others, free Douglas at river. Slept i ison River at — the Fraser |he scenery on at Doiiy;las our tents in •eakfast, and [es. Arrived osquitoes, the to the lake is ntains, called erpendicular, Douglas and glas there is atic patients, ere are road- id at a dollar iver running JOURNEY TO CARIBOO. 225 Tuesday, I2th. — Started on our journey along the Lilloet Lake at 7 "30 a.m. Had to go in a barge for six miles before we got to the steamboat. Arrived at Pemberton at 2 p.m. From the foot of Tenass (little) Lake to the head of Lilloet Lake is 25^ miles. The general direction of the lake is north. At Pem- berton we took the waggon-road, and travelled 8 miles same day. About 20 of us slept on the floor of the 8-mile house in the usual style, being very kindly invited by the landlord. YyWlnesday, \'Mh. — Started early. Arrived at Anderson Lake, distant 20 miles from Pemberton, in good time in the after- noon. We passed through all sorts of interesting scenery; rich prairie called ' the Meadows,' 7 or 8 miles long, and from half a mile to a mile wide. Beyond the tTalf-way house is a water- shed, 1,482 feet abov<j the level of the sea. From the road is seen a roaring cataract dashing from the snowy summits of the mountains. Here are the sublime and the beautiful in perfection. Had to wait for the boat till morning. Made a tent of one of my blankets ; could not sleep, the other being too short for me. My companion got used up. Had to send his tent and blankets by ' express.' Thursday y \Atk. — On board the steamer at 8 A.M. Lake Anderson, 16 miles long. Direction, north and south. Arrived at Port Seaton at 3 r.M. Lake Seaton, the last in the chain of lakes, is 14 miles long, lying west and east, ad is only 1^ miles from Lake Anderson. Scenery on both lakes charming ; the hills rising abruptly out of the water as clear and tranquil as I have ever seen. Travelled to Lilloet, distant 3^ miles. In approach- ing it the hills recede. It is a pretty place ; a flat surrounded by mountains. There are a few patches of arable land, but sand seems to prevail. All along from Douglas the country looks barren ; hardly a blade of grass to be seen, or a spot level enough to pitch a tent on. Friday, \5th. — Started early. The Fraser winds its way through the Lilloet Valley, the river bed being 190 feet below the plain. The land rises up from the river in terraces, level and regular, and these assume hues varying with the seasons. Probably the whole valley was once the basin of a lake whose w^aters subsided gradually, tlese benches being old water marks. 226 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. On one of these terrace-like levels, on the right bank of tlio river, is the town of Lilloet ; its altitude 1,036 feet. It consists of a broad street lined with wooden stores and dwellings ; has 350 white inhabitants. At the southern extremity is an Epis- copal church, of which a worthy son of a Scotch F'ree Church minister is the rector. The romantic scenery around is calcu- lated to remind him of the Highlands of his native country. Crossed the Fraser 2 miles above Lilloet. Passed several Indian burying-places. All the graves have flags over them. On one was a pole with a gim fixed on top. Travelled 20 miles to-day. Had the country I passed tlirough been fertile, it would certainly be a fine locality for farming. Beautiful tracts of tal)le-land, thinly timbered, but parclied and sandy, with very little vegetation. Saturday, I6th. — Started in company with two Australian shipmates. Slept last night in their tent. Met a train of camels going down. The country gets more open. Very little grass and very little arable land. Crossed Pavilion Mountain. Very steep on both sides. Quite flat on the summit for 4 miles. Here Bridge River, an auriferous stream, joins the Fraser; 4 miles higher up is the Fountain. Here is good farming land for some distance. Pavilion Mountain is 4,000 feet hioh. Tra- veiled 20 miles to-day. Feel quite fresh and hearty. Have not got a blister on my feet as yet. Sunday, 17 th. — Went on to the 'Junction' at Clinton, 47 miles from Lilloet, situated in a pleasant glen 16 miles in length, c:dled ' Cut-off Valley.' Here the Yale and Lilloet roads unite. Stayed all day. Bought flour and beef at 25 cents per pound. Monday, I8th. — Set out at seven a.m. It rained from then till 2 r.M. Travelled 23 miles. Flat countr}^ thickly timbered. Slept on the floor of the 70-mile house. A night scene in one of these extemporised inns would be an amusing novelty to a high-toned civilised Londoner. Might be compared to a robber's cave. The floor covered with blankcttcd bodies. On the counter sleeps the bar-keeper, to guard the liquors from any traveller that might, in a fit of thirst, so far forget himself as to get up in the night, put forth his hand without permission, aiul moisten his throat. iNIy neck and hands all over mosquito l)ites. BIA. BRIDGE CREEK TO MUD-LAKE HOUSE. 227 ank of tliG It consists sUings; has is an Epis- I'ree Church id is calcu- ve country, i^eral Indian m. On one iiiles to-da3\ dd certainly tal)le-land, evegetati(^n. 3 Australian , a train of Very little 1 Mountain, t for 4 miles. le Fraser; 4 inning land , liio-h. Tra- arty. Have Clinton, 47 es in length, roads unite. 3er pound, d from then y timbered. scene in one novelty to a :o a rol)ber's s. On the )rs from any t himself as permission, er mosquito Tuesday, I9fh. — On the road at 7 p.m. Hail storm aht»ut noon. The appearance of the country much the same as I passed through yesterday, except that it is more hilly and not so thickly timbered. Passed several small lakes with plenty of wild ducks ; saw no other game. Can hear partridges chatter- ing in the woods. Travelled 30 miles. Put up at the 100-mile house, Bridge Creek. Here good farming land opens to view. Paid j^l 50c. (6s. sterling) for supper, with the privilege of sleeping on the floor. Had the honour of sitting before a good fire by the side of Judge B . I look as much a judge as he does ! I write this close by him. He is on his way to the mines. Scarlet and ermine would be sadly out of place here. Wednesday, 20th. — Off about 7 a.m. A heavy snow storm. Snowed at intervals diu-ing the day. A beautiful looking country. Soil good, and abundance of wood and water. Land near the road clear of timber. Sweet little lakes. Profusion of feed for cattle. Passed Lake La Hache, 10 miles long. The scenery delightful. I would not wish for a prettier spot for a farm. Travelled 28 miles ; feel a little tired. My feet quite sound. Some of our party in a bad state with sore feet. Put up at the * Blue Tent.' Paid $1 50c. for supper, and slept com- fortably on the floor. Thursday, 2\sL — Started early. Walked 4 miles; lighted a fire, and cooked breakfast (slap-jacks* and coffee). Travelled 23 miles. Put up at Davidson's, at the head of William's Lake. Overtook ]\Ir. A , who left Victoria two days before me. He lost his horse on the road. Friday, 22nd. — Started at 6 a.m. Shocking bad road for 10 miles, over a thickly- wooded hill. Some of our party took the trail to the Forks of Quesnelle.f We take the Fort Alexander trail. The Forks route is the shortest, but very rough. Travelled 25 miles to-day. A broken and hilly country. Scenery very romantic. Put up at Mud-Lalie House. Saturday, 23rd.— On the road at 6 a.m. The trail winds * Thin pancakes made of flour and water. t This branch route will be described when the road via Yale coniea under notice. a -' 228 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. along the banks of the Fraser, which flows through a narrow valley enclosed by sloping hills on either side. Some spots are like made pleasure groimds ; the trees look so green, and the blooming shrul)S so various. Arrived at Alexandria — a gem of i a place. Fort Alexander, which belongs to the Hudson's Bay ' Company, is on the opposite side of the river, and consists of three or four log-houses. Travelled 21 miles to-day — 3 miles beyond Alexandria. I Sunday, 24th. — Could not sleep last night in consequence of ^ cold. Disagreed with my companion about Sunday travelling. He went on and I stayed here all day. I fancy I will overtake him by Tuesday night. Monday, 25th. — Got up at 3 a.m. Had breakfast with A and P . Started alone at 5 a.m. They could not go so fust with the mule. Killed a carpet-snake 3 feet 6 inches long. A thickly- wooded country, Avith occasional blocks of prairie land. Arrived at the mouth of Quesnelle at 6 p.m., making this day's journey 33 miles. Feel very tired, the last 12 miles being very bad — up to the knees in mud. Overtook those that travelled yesterday, here. The town of Quesnelle boasts ten houses, chiefly stores. It is the landing-place of the steamer * Enter- prise.' Flour 35c., bacon 90c. per lb. The Quesnelle is a rapid and shallow stream, whose southern branch flows from the z Great Quesnelle, one of the largest lakes in the colony. It ' empties from the south-east into the Fraser, about 35 miles above Fort Alexander. Its breadth is from 40 to 100 yards, according to the different stages of the wate'*. Passengers ferry across at two points ; one at the mouth, and the other 3 miles above. | Tuesday, 26/A. — Started at 8 a.m. A wet morning; rained t most part of the day. Roads frightful, up and down hill ; to the knees in mud. To see us splashing through it was a dismal spectacle. Crawled over logs of wood ; pushed our way through thick scrubwood ; climbed up the steep and slippery sides of hills, and put our feet in every form and shape to secure a footing and avoid the worst parts of the boggy trail. I fancy we should make as a good subject for a picture as * Bona- ■■ parte crossing the Alps.' The appearance of the country is very BIA. h a narrow le spots are en, and the , — a gem of idson's Bay I consists of ly — 3 miles sequence of f travelling, ill overtake with A ot go so fast les long. A prairie land. g this day's s being very at travelled ten houses, mer 'Enter- ic is a rapid 's from the colony. It Lit 35 miles 100 yards, engers ferry ;her 3 miles ing; rained down hill ; :^h it was a ed our way nd slippery d shape to boggy trail, e as ' Boua- ntry is very THE ROAD AS IT WAS. 220 wild and sterile. Travelled only 14 miles. Liglited two large fires and cooked supper (slap-jacks and bacon). Some of our party were obliged to sleep on tlie wet ground, having no tent. Wednefiday, 27th. — Faced the muddy trail at 8 a.m. A fine day, but the trail worse than it was yesterday. My buofs full of water. Dead horses lying in every direction ; the wretcliod animals so overcome with fatigue and deficient feed that they died in the mire. Beaver swamps, marshes, dense forests, of pine and hemlock, and patches of poplar and willow trees the main features of the landscape. Arrived at Cottonwood at 3 P.M., making only 11 miles journey to-day. Flour ()0c., beef 50c., bacon ,^1 12^c. per lb., meals $2 each. Thnrsdai/, 2Sth. — Sharp fro.st this morning. Started at G a. jr. Crossed Swift River over a large tree as a su})stitute for a bridge. One man fell in, and we narrowly escaped the same fate. The trail is better, but hilly. Dead horses met with every mile. The country now changes in appearance; barren and reefy hills indicating the presence of gold. Travelled 18 miles. About twent}'^ of us slept on the floor of Beaver Pass-house. Swift liiver, from 30 to 50 yards wide, is reached by a gradual descent, and crossed a little way above Lightning Creek. It flows through valleys containing good soil and occasional prairies. Friday, 29///. — Started at 7 a.m. Arrived at Van Winkle, lightning Creek, about 1 p.m., making to-day a journey of 12 miles. Slept on the floor of an empty house. Cottonwood, at the mouth of this creek, promises to become a trading depot of some importance. Saturday^ 30th. — Started at 7 A.M. for William's Creek, dis- tant about 15 miles; a very tedious journey, the trail being- covered with snow to the depth of 3 feet. Arrived there about 3 P.M., almost as fresh as when I left Victoria. Of all places I have seen — and I know the Australian 'diggings' — this is certainly the roughest. There are two townships a mile apart. Have not seen a square yard of clear ground on the creek : not even a footp.ith. Have to crawl over fallen trees, stumps, roots, brushwood, &c. 230 GENERAL DESCRirTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. Table of Distances. From Victoria to Douglas .... Dnujrliis to liilloet Lake Lilloet Lake to I'embcrton Peniborton to Ainlt'rKt)n Lake . Anderson Lake to Port Seattm Port Seaton to Lilloot .... Lilloet to Junction .... Junction to 70-niil(! House 70-niile House to Bridge Creek Bridge Creek to Blue Tent Blue Tent to Davidson's (William's Lake) Davidson's to Mud Lake .... Mud Jiake to Alexandria .... Alexandria to mouth of Quesnelle . Mouth of Quesnelle to Cottonwood . Cottonwood to Be.aver Pass Beaver Pass to Van Winkle Van Winkle to William's Creek if 170 miles 20 J » 24 » 18 )» U V -n fj 47 » 2:} M no if 28 a 2r{ it 2o a 19 a 3('> a 2r, a 18 a 12 a 15 a 586 Ecturning to the moiitli of Harrison Eiver, at wliicli we cliver<ji:e(l from tlic Fraser, and rcsuminiT; our ascent of tliat arterial iiiglnvay tlirough tlie colony, Ave soon arrive at Hope, still a trading depot of the Hudson's Bay Company. Tliis place gave promise, in 1859 and 18G0, of rapidly becoming an important centre for the distribution of goods to the mining camps on the Lower Fraser, and the region adjacent to the American border, seventy-four miles from Hope, and embracing Similkameen, OKanagan, and Rock Creek. Hope, at the same period, was the head of navi- gation on the lower section of the river. When I visited this locality in the latter of those years the town presented a lively aspect. On the trail to the mines of Similkameen, too, I met ninnerous pack-trains. Had Cariboo never been heard of, those engaged in the southorn mines would long ere tliis. I venture to believe, have found the precious metal quite as abundant as it has proved to be in the northern part of the colony. But, i }IA. liorfi AXb YAI-K. 2-n niilt'S ft V wliich WG 3nt of til at arrive at Company. 3f rapidly II of goods he region niles from and Eock :1 of navi- lose years lil to the Lck-trains. ed in the o believe, as it has my. But, i directly the more seductive spell of Caiiboo loomed before the vision of the miner, the less dazzling mines of Simil- kameen Avere abandoned; and, consequently, the commer- cial barometer of Ifope fell. In 18(52, Avhen I saw tlu; town List, it was evidently in a state of collapse. Feeling disposed for some refreshment on landing, I repaired to the most i-espectable looking restaurant I could fmd, and was gravely intbrmed by the proprietor that his whole stock of nutritive solids consisted of half a small ])ie ! The reason assigned was that he did not expect tlu; steamer that day ! But there are brighter days in store for Hope. The rich border mines and the bioad prairies of OKananan will yet attract a larue and i)ei'inanent ])opulation, and from tliat district the route ciu Hope is the natural outlet to the Fraser. Tlie auriferous wealth of the Kootanie country, which has only within the past six months become generally known on the coast rf the North Pacific, will also communicate a powerful im[)ulse to tlie growth of Hope. The site of this town is a lovely plateau on the banks of the river, environed with lofty and shaggy mountains. Immediately opposite is an islet formed by the ra])i(ls of the Fraser. Its distance from the mouth is ninety-five; miles. Fifteen miles higher up is Yale, another trading port of the company, but now transformed into a rising town, containing several hundred inhabitants. This is the head of navigation on the Lower Fiuser, and here goods, destined for Shuswap and Cariboo, I'ia the new waggon-road through Lytton, are transhipped. A suc- cession of rapids is the most signal impediment oflei'ed to tlie navigation of this bi-ief interval. In illustration of the strength of the current to be overcome, it may be noticed that, while it takes but half an hour to descend to Hope, six hours are occupied in ascending by high-pres- 1 232 GENERAL DESCRimON OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. sure steamers thence to Yale. One fatal explosion oc- cured neiir Emery's Bar a few years ago, destroying, witli others, the life of tlie captain — a member of an ill-fated family. Four brothers in it fell martyrs to the high-pres- sure system in the waters of British Columbia and Oregon. Indeed, I have no reason to recall witli satisfaction my own sensations when crossing the troublesome point re- ferred to. Our steamer happened to be the first that attempted the passage beyond Hope that year, subsequently to the river beginning to fall. Tlie struggle was so intense on our reaching tlie gurgle of the rapids that, with a pressure of steam greatly beyond the weight allowed by law, no ascending motion for twenty minutes was perceptible. The captain, a reckless American, became, with other betting men on board, intensely excited (under the irifhi- ence of liquor) as to the issue of the dangerous experiment. Some were foolhardy enough to lay a wager that an ex- plosion would take place, and coolly discussed the expe- rience they should have when blown into the air. I ascertained afterwards — on the authority of one whose position in the boat qualified him to know — that, at the critical moment, while the question remained undecided as to whether the rapid or the steamer should conquer, a pi]:)e connected with the boiler burst, and was regarded as the infallible precursor of our common destruction. The prodigal indifierence of American steamboat men in regard to human Hfe was characteristically exemplified in a conversation in which I took part. The enquiry wns put to a Yankee as to the safety of a certain steamer. ' She may do very well for passengers, but I wouldn't trust treasure in her,' was the unfeeling but candid reply. Leaving Y'ale by the waggon-road, completed in 1863, i IIA. PAVILLOX MOUNTAIN AND LYTTON. losion oc- ying, witli m ill-fated high-prcs- d Oregon, action my point rc- attcmpted itly to the intense on a pressure )y law, no erceptible. v'ith other the infhi- i^periment. liat an ex- the expe- le air. I no whose lat, at the ndecided ;onquer, a garded as on. 3oat men emplified quiry w^.s steamer, wouldn't it candid in 1863, we ]iass through a deep and narrow gorge in tlie moun- tains called the Little Canon (Kanyon), through which the river forces its way with resistless momentum. This cleft in the Cascade range is the favoiu-ite resort of Indians in search of salmon. Their mode of fishing has been pre- viously described. The road, in some parts, is hewn out of solid and pre- cipitous rock ; and, with similar work done in rendering the Pavilion Mountain passable, this deserves to rank among the most astonishing achievements of the engineer- ing art. A bridge is thrown across the river eleven miles above Yale, where a ferry was formerly used. At the junction of the Thompson and the Eraser, forty- three miles below Lilloet, upon an elevated flat, 780 feet above sea level, is Lytton, a town named after the distin- guished gentleman who was Secretary of State for the Colonies during the administration under which the colony of British Cohui.bia was foimded. The wajrixon-road then turns in a north-easterly direction, until Cook's Ferry is reached, twenty-three miles above Lytton. The road via Lilloet joins the one by Lytton at Clinton, a point forty-seven miles from the former place, and seventy-five from the latter. Clinton has sprung up with mushroom growth. It has three respectable hotels, a saw-mill, a butcher's shop, two blacksmiths and farriers, a store of a miscellaneous description, stables, barns, brickyard, and several shanties, 'among wliich you observe the Celestial's sanctum, with an announcement over the door that he has the courage to undertake the "lively" operation of washing a Cariboo shirt.' A scheme was on foot last year, with every prospect of success, for making a road from about the 108th mile- ])ost, on tho present road to Antler Creek, via the Horse- fly and Beaver Valleys and the Forks of Quesnelle. This 234 (inNRHAL DESCRH'TION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. ti'ack saves from seventy to eiglity miles * The jm-sent road, as the map plainly shows, is an absurdly roundabout one. Of course, the question is sufigested to most persons aequainted with the country, why did Government allow the road to be taken that way? Why were the con- tractors allowed to take the road to Soda Creek and start a steamboat in the Fraser to run thence to the mouth of Quesnelle ? The answer is, that the late governor, though paid a handsome s.'dary for looking after the interests of the colony, never carried personal inspection so far. Of course, the contractors have made notliing out of the road or the steamljoat. Oh, no ! Who could for a moment imagine such a thing? It is so common for men of business or Govern- ment officials in this part of the world to sacrifice themselves for philanthropic motives ! During the time the road was being made the managing contractor expressed to the William's Lake settlers on the old trail his willingness to take the road by way of their ranclies (farms) in consideration of a small donation of ^15,000 ! How kind ! But the next news was that the gentle- man who was wont to labour so hard for the general weal had become possessed of half a share in Deep Creek ranch, about 14 miles from the present steamboat landing (one of the best stands for business) ; and, strange to say, notwithstanding the disinterestedness attributed to this gentleman, the road even- tually took a course by way of Deep Creek. Another thing- still more extraordinary is, that the steamboat still continues to return at such an hour of the day that the miner on his way down is obliged to stay at Deep Creek House I f * This route will open up a portion of the country liitlierto unprospeotod, but believed to contain rich and extensive depot(i<:s of gold, wliieli, from being situated in lower land, can be worked for a longer period during the year than the mines lying northward of it. Here, moreover, tracts of ex- cellent farming land exist capable of sustaining 500 families, in the vicinity of a growing and highly remunerative market. ■)• Letter from a resident in British Columbia. 101 A. FROM WILLIAMS LAKK TO CAilinOO. '> '1 '\ 'he ])r('sent njuiKlaboiit ost persons iiient allow e the eoii- k uiul start e mouth of nor, tlioiigli interests of 3 far. : of the road lent iniiitjino s or Govern- ? themselves ad was beiuyf lliam's Lake road by way I donation of t the gentle- ral weal had anch, about of the best tanding the road even- lotlier things- continues to on his way uiiprospoctoil, , Avliidi, from intl durinir the p, tracts of ex- iu the vicinitv It is to he hoped, the local Government will take rare, in giving out contracts in future, that covenants are entcri'd into stringent enougli to })revent individuals fiom schem- ing to benefit themselves at the i'.\])ense of the country and to the inconvenience of the public. From William's Lake two paths lending to Cariboo pi"oj)cr are at the option of tlie ti'aveller, as I'eferred to in the diary already (pioted. If he should wish to enter llu? mininu" rcLnon on the eastern side, he will take the route via (iuesnelle and Antler, wliicli is at once the shorter and more arduous. Shoidd he })refer the western route, lie will proceed to the right at Lake Valley House on William's Lake. The distance from that lake to Itich- field by the latter route, which, as we have seen, goes by the Upper Fraser and Cottonwood, is estimated by Lieut. Palmer at 141) miles ; and the distance by the eastern route, i. c. via Beaver Lake, Deep Creek Farm, and the town of Quesnelle, at 113 miles. The longer journey possesses the advantage of sui)plying more abundant feed for animals. Two routes from the coast to the northern mines of British Columbia are projected, both of which, when comideted, will reduce consider{d)ly the tiiue, expense, and strength consmned by miners and packers who now travel by Yale and Douglas. The route by North Bentinck Arm was the first of these submitted to public attention. It was travelled over by Sir Alexander Mackenzie in 1702, and re-ex[)lored a few years since. So much importance did the Govern- ment attacli to it that a party of lloyal Engineers was appointed to examine and report upon it. The voyage from Victoria to Bentinck Arm is nearly 500 miles. Numerous deep-water indentations are passed in sailing to it, extend- ing inland from 20 to 100 miles, and bearing severally 2o0 (IKXKRAL DHSCRH'TION UF lilUTlSlI COLUMBIA. tlio iiJUiK'S of arms, iiiU-ts, soumls, and (.'anals. In tin- vicinity of some of tlicsc, glaciers, rarely to he met with elsewhere, are of frequent occurrence, and near Knight's Canal there is a river said to How for 15 miles thi'ough a magnificent glacier tunnel, 100 feet in height and from 100 to 150 yards in breadth. North Bentinck Arm is 25 miles in length and from 1^ to 2i miles in breadth. Groups of mountains, of gra- duati)ig altitude, tumbled through rounded masses, snowy peaks, pine-clad slo[)es, rugged difl's and precipices, shapeless masses of trappcan and granite rocks, soai'ing to vast heights, gloomy valleys, and i)icturesquc water-falls — these alternations of wilderness and beauty constitute the essential features of the scenery. At the head of this arm the Bella Coola or Xookhalk Kiver discharges. The stream is 80 miles in length, and drains a portion of the Cascade range. The first serious obstruction to road- making to be met with is from the crossing of the Cheddcakulk to the foot of the Great Slide, where the mountains crowd upon both sides of the stream. Slides, occasioned by fragmentary trap-rocks rumiing directly into the river or into low swampy land contiguous to it, are to be met with, varying from 300 to GOO feet in height. These slides are capped by clifTs averaging 1 ,500 feet in altitude above the river. The next barrier of special consequence to the traveller is the Precipice. This peculiar mountain mass is composed of basaltic rock l,o50 feet in height, and stands between the forks of the brook Ilotharko, wliich runs in a south-easterly and west- northerly direction. The ascent of this mountain is re- markably steep. The officer in command of the Govern- ment exploring party, in describing this peculiar formation, says : — The trail at first runs up the backbone of a singular spur, niA. BKXTIXCK ARM ROUTK. 237 Is. Ill llu' met with jir Kiiijilit's 1 tlu'ouj^li il t and from I and from lins, of gla- sses, snowy prcci])ico.s, I, sojirinjx to water-falls y constitute I lead of tins trges. The rtion of the n to road- ing of the where the m. Slides, g directly itiguoiis to o GOO feet averaging ext barrier Precipice, isaltic rock 3rks of the /• and west- itain is re- le Govern- formation, igular spur, windiiijjf further up mnotii; crumUlin;^' frftt^inontH of rooks, and fin.'illy n'iichiiiL,' Wy a di/.zy path thu Huiiuuit «>t' a perpendicular wall of ruck, 100 feet liij^h, wliicli crowns the mass, and froi.i which it derives its name. The elitV is coniposed of blocks of columnar basalt in the Hha|)e of multanj^ular prisms, averaj,'in<,% in their perfect state, about two cubic feut in size, usually stained of a dull red colour, and somewhat vesicular. Tlu' blocks are fixed together as perfectly as if l)y human agency, and the layers are horizontal; thus on the sununit, which is perfectly level, patches are met with in which, tlie scant soil having been washtnl away, the jointing of tht.'se singular stones, almost resembling mosaic fragment, is clearly visible; and towards the edges of the cliff large portions of the rock have crumbled away, leaving standing in many places abrupt cohnnnar masses of as nuich as ,jO feet in height, wliich, viewed fnjm a shorter distance, almost assume the appearance of massive, artificial, and battlementcd structures. But the two grave obstacles spoken of — ' the Slide ' and ' the Precipice ' — may be avoided when the road is being nuide : the one by not leaving the Atnarko till reaching the mouth of the Ilotharko ; the other by following the south fork of the Ilotharko, and rising to the level of the Precipice by an easy inclination. Arriving at the summit of the Precipice, 3,840 feet above the level of tlu; sea, the great elevated plateau is entered. This lies between the Cascades and the Fiaser. An expanse of waving forest, broken only by lakes and marshes, meets the eye looking eastward. The i)eaks of the Cascade range lie to the west, and lonely massive heights, interesting from their very irregularity, stretch away to the south. It is the opinion of Lieut. Palmer that in emerging from the Cascades the principal dilliculties of travel are i)ast, and that there is no impracticability in making a road across the plateau to strike the Fraser Valley at almost any ])oint south of the fifty-third parallel. 238 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. The Bute Inlet is situated iniicli further south, being near tlie northern entrance to Johnstone Strait, and is claimed by Mr. Alfred Waddington, tlie talented and enterprising i)rojcctor of this second route, to be incom- parably superior to any of the other routes specified. The country through ^vhich it passes does not dilTer materially in contour from tliat traversed by the Bentinck- Arm route, except that it includes nhiety miles of lake and river navigation between Bute Inlet and Cottonwood Iviver. It is natural that Mr. Waddington should desire to make his scheme a[)pear as favourable as possible in con- trast with those of his rivals. Still, making every allow- ance for the influence of partiality in this respect, I think the following comparative statement may be accepted as substantially correct. The measurement relates to the distance between Victoria and Lightning Creek. Bute Inlet lloiito Bciitinck Arm U<mte Yale Route Mi/ex Mih-.i Mill's Sen, lake, and river navigation . 305 . . 500 • . JH2 Land travel . 158 . . 178 • . 359 403 738 541 No. of days consumed in conveying frei ght 22 . . 28 . 37 No. of loadings and uuloa'luigs 5 . — • . 14 Freiglit, per lb Cfiits . 10 . Cents . 15 • Viiil.t 55 There are two routes to the Shuswap Diiimnixs. Tlie one that starts from Hope and passes Nicholas Lake, it woidd be somewhai perilous to attempt, except under the guidance of one accjuainted with tlie track which leads over mountains where the snow lies deep till near mid- smnmer. The other route is vid Yale and Lytton, following the waggon-road after leaving Lytton for about 52 miles. This conducts to a point nearl}" opposite Cache BIA. r o nth, belli*, [lit, and is jiitod and be inconi- specified. not dilTer : Bentinck- )f lake and 'ottomvoud desire to jle in con- ^ery alk)w- ict, I think iccepted as ,tes to the Arm Vale Route Slilrs . . 182 . . 8o9 541 . 87 . 14 niu;s. Tlie IS Lake, it ept under hich leads near mid- d Lyttoii, I for about )site Cache ROUTE TO SIIUSWAP. 239 Creek, and one mile beyond tlie house of James Orr. Here the Bonaparte Eiver is crossed to the eastward, when a trail is found going off toward Cache Creek Valley. This must be kept for 14 miles, as far as Mr. Bate's ranch. Thence a walk of G miles brings us to the foot of Kama- loops Lake, — Saviner's ferry. The trail has then to be taken to the nortli side of the lake. Twenty-five miles more passed over and we .arrive at Fort Kamtdooj^s. From Fort Kamaloops to the Grand Prairie embi-aces -10 miles, and from the latter place to Cherry Creek on the ►^huswap Lake is about 70 miles. The trail passes through a vast extent of fine open farming country, and the land for the most part is so level that, without much dilficulty, a loaded waggon miglit be drawn over a large section of it. 240 CHAPTER IX. THE MIXES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. Digf^ings at IIopo — Yale — Similkameen — OKanajran — Tlock Creek — Tran- quille and North Rivers— Kumaloop.s Lake — Qiiesuelle — Antler — Cariboo — IJed Rock Flume and Artesian Mining Companies — Remarkable In- stances of Success— Prices at the Nortlwrn Mines— Shuswap and Koo- tanie Diggings — Mining Prospects on the north-\ve;?t of the Fraser — Mining Laws. Taking the mining districts in the order of their discovery we have, first, The Fort Hope Di<jf/ings. — These primarily attracted tlie bulk of mining adventiu'ers on their arrival in 1858. The bars,* which excited most notice for their productive- ness at that time, were respectively known as the Victoria Bar, the Puget Sound, French, Travalgar, Mariaville, Union, Cornish, Prospect, Blue Nose, and Hudson. An oilicial statement shows the miners at work in these loca- lities to have averaijed^ as min'ununi earnings, between IG.v. 8f/. and 2/. per day. ' Two miners realised in six weeks 270/., and their confidence in the productiveness <»f the country was so great that they afterwards invested * ' Bars ' are accumulations of sand and general dvtritus v.iiich cover the ancient channel of the river, having formerly been washed down and de- posited by the water of the stream, when flowing in its old bed. They constitute the present banks of the river in many places, and are all more or les.H auriferous. ' JJenches ' is a term applied to the auriferous banks when \\»\i\)X in the form of terraces. YALE AXD SIMILKAMICKN DIGGINGS. 241 Creek — Tran- II tier — Carihoo emarkablo lii- wap and Koo- tho Fraser — r discovery y attracted al in 1858. ^rodiictive- le Victoria Vlariaville, dsoii. All these loca- beiweeii sed ill six tivciiess of IS invested licli cover the own and de- d bod. They uv all more or 3 banks when that sum in the purcliase of another claim.' A silver lead of great promise is being worked in the neighbourhood of Hope. The company formed to develoj)e it is sustained by the limited sum of G,000/. ; the stock consists of GOO shares. But without an increase of capital, wiiich cannot for some time, I fear, be commanded, unless the interest of the present comj)any is transferred to one more al)le, organized in the i)arent country, the mine is not likely to be very productive. In October 181)4, diggings were found on the river Coquahalla, near no})e, averaging ^^5 ])er day to the hand. Flirt Yale JJli/i/iix/s. — These embrace the trround on the rivei-l)tmks between Hope and Yale, and that extend- ing some distance above the latter town. Hill's, Emery's, and Boston Bars were the most noted in tliis district for richness. 'As a rule,' says an oHicial document, ])repared in 1858, ' tiiey (the uihiers) have been successful, and many have returned to their homes jiossessors of from 41 G/. to 830/.' But the mines of the Lower Fraser, while by no means exhausted, fail to satisfj^ any longer the now more elevated expectations of the whites, whose content- ment with moderate returns has been spoiled by the 'big strikes' made in Cariboo. The quieter field of labour around Hope and Yale is therefore abandoned, almost exclusively, to Chinamen, whose Avages average from 8.S'. G(/. to 1/. per day — the expense of their living being not more than 2.9. per day. The S'niilkanieen, OKanagan, and Rock Creek IJ'kj- qiuqs. These localities are sufficiently near each other in proximity to the southern border to be grouped together. It was ascertained that the precious metal existed here in 18G0. No sooner was the discovery made than trails were cut, by directio.i of the Govermuent, for the con- venience of any who might desire to ' prospect ' the dis- B 242 THE MIXES OF BRITISH COLUMniA. trict. ' Oil tlio country beiiiii: cxamiiiGd (at Similkaincen), " prospects " were .so good tluit all the miners made ])i"e- paration for sluieinu", and other costly works lor mining, on a larLje scale.' * ' The carnhiL^s in the summer of 18(jl averaged o/. O.v. to the hand per day. About 2()() miners, of whom 150 were Chinamen, were at work in this dis- trict. A party of three took 50/. in three days ; and the rocker used in wet diuu'inus yielded from 10-s\ 8(/. to 1/. lo.s\ 4(/. to the hand.' — l^iine.^ Correspundoit. I have had opportunities of personally conversing with men who acknowledged that they ^lad realised 3/. '■U. (Jd. per day to the hand. In May 18G1, Governor Douglas reported that a pi'o- .•^pecting party had found gi'ain and scale gold of line quality m all the streams (lowing into the western pai't of OKanaLian Lake, which is over seventy miles lonii;. In the summer of the same yetu' there were twenty-six miners at work who averaged lO.s'. 8^/. a day. Sixteen streams out of nineteen llowing into the lake had been ' prospected/ and w^ere found to yield gold. Gold was extracted from one claim in Itock Creek, at the jimction of that stream with Colville Iliver, in Feb- ruary 18()1, to the value of 108/. in six weeks : another yielded 4/. per day. Mr. Cox, the gold commissionei- at tliis ])oint, says (May 18(')1) : "We prospected nine streams, all tributaries of Lake OKanagan, and found gold in each, averaging from 30 to 90 cents a pan.' lie then uientions other good prospects, which he deemed it advisable not to nuike pul)lic, lest a check should be given to operations then in a state of progress. ' I ascertained,' says Governor Douglas, 'from the testimony of the miners generally, that none of those who had succeeded in open- ing gold claims were making anythuig less than 41. a * Purliamoulary I'apors on I'.riti.-h Columbia, Part IV. p. ."iO. kuinccn ), uide ))re- • iiiiuiii.L!:, M)fl8(il miners, this dis- aud the js. 8(/. to . I have men wlio )er day to at a pro- d of line n\ ])ai't of iL!;. In the miners at reams out 'OSpCCLCU, Creek, at r, in Fe])- another tmissionei" cted nine und li'old lie then eemed it be u;iven pertained,' he miners 1 in open- han 4:1. a \ .'JO. o H U ESN K 1. 1. 1"] A N I ) A X T L VAl. 243 day. ... A party of tlu'ee wliite men, after i)aying all expenses, during the mining season saved 2,400/. : 20/. u day was sometimes made.' — Tinier Correspondi'i/t. The JJl(j(/iiii/s of 7Wui(/uille and North Rirer.^., and Kamaloop-s Lake. — Seven miners (and many more whose gains have never been made public) are known to Iuino realised b/. G.v, Sd. })er day each on Lake Kamalo(:>])s. A friend who explored on the Tiiompson Iiiver, close by, assured me that without dilliculty he gained I/, per day with tlie rocker ; but it should not be foru'otten that lie was an okl IJaliarat miiu'r, and that for any norir<j to set to work in the same neighi)()urliood, ho|)iiig inunediately tor tJie same result, wouhl be to incur dis- ap]M)intment. ilnexnellc and Anih'r J)!;/(/in(/fi. — The early pioneers of the country argued that the line gokl t)l" the Lower Fi'aser was formetl by the disintegration of (piartz veins, from which coarse gold Avas se[)aratcd by the abrasion of water, carried down stieams, and rendered liner by aqueous action as it was rolled toward the ocean. This correct theory led to the examination of certain tributaries of the Fraser, directly north of Alexandra, and late in 1859, gold of the quality anticipated was discovered on the Qucsnelle Iiiver, and in 1800 the finding of Antler Creek was proclaimed. No sooner tlid this occur than the hopeful mines near the southern boundary were deserted. On Qucsnelle Eivcr 000 white miners were successfully employed in the summer of 18G0, earning from 21. to 5/. ])erday; and several pieces of gold were picked u|) in this resrion weiirhing from to 8 oz. — an ounce beinu; equal to 8/. 8.s\ sterling, and hometin\es more. Feig-uson's Bar in this vicinity, yielded, in 1800, as much as J 2/. to the hand per day ; but after the })ay streak near the I'iver R 2 2:14 THE MIXES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. boc^ixiiiG exhausted, tlic profits decreased to ol. per day. Bed-rock flimiiug will yet eoini)el this place to yield con- siderable treasure. The bed-rock of Antler Creek, on which the j,^old is found, crops out at many points but a short distance i'roni the surface. The absence of precipitous banks renders the working of this stream more easy and less exjiensive than most of the creeks in the u])per country. ' Setting the woikable ground,' says Conunissioner Xind, ' at a low estimate, there is room here for at least 1,000 miners.' 'We are daily,' savs Governor Douuias, ' receiving the most extraordinary accounts of the fabulous wealth of Antler Creek. . . . Authentic intelliifenco has come of a comi)aiiy of four men, who were making regularly fi'oin 10 to o7 ounces a day — from 4 to Oi ounces each.' By iluming, anoth"r company of four men washed out with cradles 30 ounces of n'old in one day. The Rev. Mr. Brown was present when 200/. was taken from the sluice- boxes as the result of one day's work. In the sunnner of 1801, die aggregate yield of Antler was over 2,000/. per day. New liands raw at work (.says the 'Times' Correspondent) took out f;old to the value of 201^. per day. A Mr. Smitli earned G.'H oz. of gold per day (worth 18a/. (h.), his claim averagin<>; 26 or .SO oz a day. . . . When the bed rock was laid bare it was found studded or paved with himps of gold, and every shovelful contained a considerable amount ; and in some cases to the value of \()l. The stuff required no washing, as the nug- gets or pellets of gold could be picked out by the hand. . . . The rocker yielded ')() oz. of gold of a forenoon. . . . At a later period the creek yielded 10i> to 1,30 oz. a day from sniall claims. . . . Since Abi\' ["(>0, including a period of a few mon.hs] two men have taken out '5,7 ')0/. with a rocker. Fron: four companies which mined cii Antler Creek, the return of three weeks' operations is this : — ( )ne company of three men, l(),GbO/. ; per day. >'ickl coii- 3 ii:()l(l is nice i'l'oni :s renders expensive ' Settiiij.? ' at a low ) miners.' iving the wealth of ;onic of a iinly from acli.' By out with Eev. Mr. ;he sliiice- unimcr of mi. per espondent) th earned averagin<>' lid bare it and every onie cases IS the nufj- tld. . . . . At a rom suiall w moD.lis] Fron: four 1 of three , H5,(;b()/. ; ("AIM BOO DFSTIJICT. :> 1 -. •21 tliroo otliers tuok out 7,.j()()/. ; five men .'),2()0/.; and six nun 0,000/. A coin])any was formed last year, called 'Antler Hed- liock Flume Company (Limited),' for the purpose of ai)plyinix to the bed of the creek the important process in- dicated in the desiunatioji they have adopted 'Ihc capitiil proposed to be I'aised is 1 2, ()()()/., in 2,100 shares of ')/. each. The company have obtained from the Colonial Government a ten years' lease of the bed of Antler CitH'k, ICili miles in lenjith by 100 feet in width, to be worked by an liydraulic apparatns in eomiection with llumino'. It is stated in the prospectus that nuich of the uround on the creek, in 1801, yielded at the rate of 200/. i)er sf(uare foot. The incipient character of mining operations in the country may be jutlged of when it is mentioned that heavy mechanical appliances were introduced last year for the first time. If a few creeks and bars yield returns so enoi'mous, Avith the aid of the most primitive contii- vanccs in a country still com|)aratively unexplored, we surely have in this fact an unmistakeable earnest of the colossal fortunes vet to be made wlien laruei' capital is invested, the interior better kni/,V!t, and machineiy more extensively in use. T/w Cariboo DistriH. — This famous region is studded with mountains closely ]){ud<e(l together, of coiisideral)le altitude, and often presenting thickly-wooded slo])es. Tremendous masses, tumbled and irreii'ular in character, with sunnnits from 0,000 to 7,000 feet above the level of the sea, form centres of radiaticm for subordinate ranges. Of these the most familiar to ' Caribooites ' are ]\h)unts Snowshoe, ]5urdett, and Agnes — the latter being commonly known as the ' l^ald Mountain.' Language i'ails to do justice to the nnpressive grandeur and snblimity of these 240 TMK MIXES OF BIUTISII COLUMBIA. si)Uis of the liocky ^[ouiitains. lVi'li!i))s the iinairc tluit, conveys the most suitable icU'U of tliis sin<iuhir loniiatioii is, that of {I molten sea, lushed into niu;nitie billows, Avhieh, at the very height ol" the storm, had been suddenly ])etrilied. This ap:gre<jfatiou of mountains is drained by mnnerous streams, of every imaginabl(» size, from tiny rivulets to large brooks, called in local })arlance, ' creeks and gulches,' Avhich wind among canons and valleys, apparently to and from every point of the comj)ass, discharging themselves at length in prominent tributaries of the Fraser. Fnmi the melting of winter snows and the frequent rains of sunnner, these streams are subject to an increase of volume, which is occasionally troublesome to the miners, ({old is found in irre.'itest abundance close to the moun- tains, whence thev take their rise. It is an additional testimony to the c/dlrmi/anf gift of that renowned geo- grai)her ^ir lioderick ]\[urcliison, who so marvellously ])redicted the discovery of gold in Australia, that several years before the existence of the precious metal was known in British Columbia, ho hazarded the assertion that it would probably be found in large quantities in this very rciiion of Cariboo. The richest sinkings hitherto explored are situated on the following creeks : Keighley's, Goose, Cunningham's, Lightning, Jack of Clubs, Grouse, Chisholm, Sovereign, Fountain, Harvey, Nelson, Steven's, Siiowshoe, Last Chance, Anderson California, Thistle, Sugar, Willow, IMcCallum, Tababoo, Conklin, LoAvhee, Williams, i!v:c. Up to the present, the last-named of these is acknowledged to have been the most pi'oductive. It takes its rise near the Bald Mountain, and flowing swiftly through a deep valley, past the town of liichlield, unites with Willow liiver about six miles below the town, and tlience wends AUTKSIAX .MlXI.Vd LO.MrANY. 2r nMu:<' tluit ioi'iiiatioii vs, wliicli, siuldciily nuiucrous ivuk'ts to I gulcliGs,' ;ly to and liein.sc'lves r. From : rains of crease of le miners. lie moim- udditional vned geo- rvellously ^t several as known n tliat it til is very tuated on ini>ham's, >overei<j^n, oe, Last Willow, ams, i.'^rc. owledged rise near li a deep 1 Willow ce wends towards tlie Frasei". SJiorlly aflcr the ('Xj)loration of W illiam's (Veck, a claiiii, owned by a jicisoii to wlioin L am iii(l(.'l)ted for the iiilormafion, yielded in one day 1, '>()<)/. Tiie entire sum realised Iroiii a space of 80 feet square, was abont 24,01)0/. Three partner.^ in a cerlaiii claim (two of whom ai'ewell known to me) netted S.OOO/. each, in a ])ei'iod of four of live months. St-veral part- ners in another claim (one of whom verified the stiitemeiit to me personally) made 1,100/. to their indi\idiial share. ' 'J'he Artesian Gold Alining C'om[)any (Limited),' was organised last year, with ca])ital stock amounting to ^L'V2,000, divided into 2,010 shares of ,s'.-)() ea<-h. This com])any have obtained a chtuter with a lease of twenty years, of one half mile in leimth, by three eiLrhths of a mile in breadth of mininu" ujround, situated on tliis eicck. The extent of irround leased is t-nuivalent to 520 mininu; claims of 100 feet square. Their object is to j)rospect and exj)lore the ground thoroughly Avitli an artesian boring machine, so that an artesian shaft can be sunk to the bed rock in from four to six day: — Workinu' two ' shifts' * l)er day. Under the most favourable circumstances, the ordinary time consumed in sinking a shaft with |)ick and shovel to the bed rock, at a depth of 40 or 00 feet, is from six weeks to two months. 'J1ie cost of sink'ing thus, by manual labour, is from tS':5,000 to ,^10,000. The artesian shaft can be made ibr less than ,>?')00. The augur or worm at the end of the boring tool is so constructed as to bring up every time it is raised about a [)anful of dirt, by wasliing \vhicli the ground can be thoroughly examined for gold from to|) to bottom. The machine can be easily worked by three men. Water, which is the great obstruc- tion to be contended with in oi)en shafts, is rather an ad- * Working fime -witli a si.-t of luiml-j. 2t8 TIIK MINKS OF nUITLSIL COfX'MBIA. ViHitajxc in boiinj; sin nrU'sinii sluit't. It is also the intention ol' the eompuny to lit \\\) ii steani-enjiino of twenty t»r tliiity liorse power, lor |)uni))iiij,^ water and lirtin«jf dirt at all seasons of the year. 'Die name of my esteemed friend, Mr. J. r. Cranford, the seeretary,isa sullicientgnarantee for the thorough resj)ectal)ilityof the enteiprise, which I have no d(jnl)t will be followed by others of the same description. That a correct jiidj^finent may be formed of the ])robable valne of the ground leased, and of the substantial basis on which the company rest their hopes of success, the following facts, in refei'ence to the yiekl of claims on this creek,* have been carefully collected and published in iheir prospectus : — TJjo Adams Company averaj^ed over ^oO,000 to each 100 foot; the Steel claim <:avo $\2i),000 out of 80 feet; the Cmi- iiingham ;{?27O,0()0, chiefly out of oOO feet; the Hums gave ^140,000 out of JSO feet ; Loring Diller <t Co. obtained ^240,()()0, chiefly out of .00 feet ; tlie Cainulian obtained |{?1 80,000 out of 120 feet; the Never Sweat gave ;jllOO,()00, chiefly out of 120 feet; the Moflfiit gave ^1)0,000, chiefly out of 50 feet; the Tiiik«'r gave ^* 120,000, chiefly out of 140 feet; the Watty gave »*?130,000 out of 100 feet; besides the Black Jack Tunnel, JJarker, Baldhead, Abbot, Grier, Griffin or Point Wilson, Jk'aiuogard, Baby, Cameron, Prince of Wales, and numbers of others of world-wide fame. But we cannot ascertain facts as to what they have yielded. f In ISGo, about 4,000 miners were en<xao;ed on this creek, scattered over a space of seven miles ; and though the majority of the claims taken up had not then been opened, many paid returns that in any other gokl producing ' The gold in William's Creek gives in fineness, •SiJO. t A relative of Mr. Cameron whose claim is mentioned in this list assured me, when in Canada a few months since, that this gentleman had returned to his native colony from Cariboo with not less than ^240,000. i ntcntioii ,'C'nty ur ^f dirt nt (I IVit'iiil, 111 toe lor li I Imvo criptioii. pruhublo ial basis L'csy, tlie s on tliis li^lied in eiiclj 100 the Cun- uriis gave g24(),()()0, 00 out of It of 120 'eet ; the itty gave Tunnel, Wilson, nibers of "acts as to on this though en been 'oclucing list assured returned I.OWIIKK CUKKK. 211) i f'oiintry would be consiiU'icd icmuiRTativc. Foity at least yielded handsomely, and from about twenty was taki'ii out steadily, every twenty four hours, from 70 to 400 oz. In one instance — exeeptional, of eourse — 10)5 lbs. of gold was extracted in a single day ; and I conversed with a ])artner of that company wjio brought down to Victoria, as his individual ])orti<)n, 15,000/. IV'tween October 18G2, and January 1803, 00,000/. was taken out of three claims, ])reviously unprospected. A lad, so far reduced as to accej)t a situation in Victoria, from which he hardly received reniunenition enough to ])ro- cure the necessaries of life, re[)aired to the mines in 1803, and in a few months returned with 2,000/. Lowhee Creek promises to equal, if not sur])ass Wil- liam's in richness. Several companies on that stream have reached the bed-rock, where gold is deposited in fabulous quantities. For a considerable time the claim of Sage Miller yielded between 300 oz. and 400 oz. per day, and after hav- ing been worked nearly two full seasons, we learn by late intelligence that it still gives 80 oz. a day. The Chittenden claim, only recently opened, averages about the same amount. A letter, dated from Cariboo, in June 1804, states that Dr. Foster, a partner in the riumbago Conq)any, went down one day, after the water had been shut oil^ and picked up in his claim Sii)0, The Ericsson claim, on Conklin gulch, June 3, 1804, yielded 420 oz., and next day one thousand oz. The steamer ' Enterprise ' arrived at Victoria, from New West- minster, August 10, 1804, with over tiveive hwidred pounds weight of gold. Mr. O'Eeilly, gold commissioner, writing to the Govern- ment in June last, from Eichfield, says : — ' 1 have much pleasure in reporting that a company known as " the Butcher," on Lightning, being a hill claim, situated above ^>. A# IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ 2.0 111= /,. '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ..^- l/.A t % is \ 250 Till'] MINKS or BlIITISII COLUMBIA. tlie town of Van Winkle,wliich yielded largely last year, but yoon after lost tlie lead, and since then has laboured hard, spent alai'ge sum of money in prospecting, has again been rewarded by a very ricli strike, S^,o()() having been taken out in the past three days ; one nugget of solid gold being the largest yet obtained in the Cariboo district, weighing 30 jV oz.' A copy of the ' Victoria Chronicle,' of Xov. 1SG4, says : — ' The Aurora Company, on the 20th ult., took out 800 oz., and on the 24th, 618 oz. of gold. The Moflat was paying about ,^1,000 to the share per week. The Saw-mill boys struck a good prospect on Saturday, and adjourned to champagne and coflee. The prospect was i^lO to the pan ; next day they took out 820 to four buckets.' Great returns ai'e also looked for next year from Cunningham's Creek, which last autumn attracted special attention. Instances of even remarkable success are much too numerous to be all recited here. On the other hand, let it not be supposed that those which have been specified are intended to give the impression that prize.'i are the rule, aiid Jdanks fall to the lot of none. It is wot reasonable to expect that in an occupation to which skill can be applied to so limited an extent, the majority can escape disap- pointment. The ancient beds of creeks which contain aui'iferous deposits arc generally of a tortuous character, and overgrown with underwood and pine. The ' striking' of the gold lead, while not entirely, is in a considerable degree, therefore, attributable to luck. The ground in the vicinity of a creek being saturated with water, the shafts which are sunk from 85 to 70 feet, are liable to incursions of water, so I'apid as frequently to badle incessant pumping to master it. Many claims, unquestionably lich, have been abandoned by the miners I i ast year, but cured liard, i niiaiii been been taken I iroldbdnf>- it, Aveigliing 1 (SO 4, says : t., took out The Mofl'at kveek. Tlie turday, and rospcet was m) to four r next year n attracted ' niucli too hand, let it specified are he rule, and asonable to be applied cape disap- icli contain character, ' striking' onsiderable Z satiu'ated to 70 feet, frequently any claims, tlie miners rnosrrxTS of cariboo. 251 from this cause, and it operated not a little, in 18C4, to hinder the effective development of others. But this diffi- culty will lienceforth be overcome in Cariboo, by tlie agency of steam-pumps and bed-rock drains. It is plain that placer-mining in a country, only lasting for some ten or twelve years, cannot afford per- manent employment to immigrants. It is quartz-crush- ing tliat nuist eventually form the principal source of mining income in this colony, as it now does in California. Gold-bearing quartz has already been discovered. One of the ' leads' is formed on Keithley's Creek, and is said to contain SIO worth of gold to the lb. of cjuartz. In the vein, which is 18 inches thick, there is a large percentage of silver and some galena. If, as I believe to be the case, the mountains of Cariboo are but an extension of the Sierra of California, there is no reason to doubt that the quartz formation of the former, when it receives that amount of attention fi'om British capitalists which is com- mensurate with its importance, will become astonishingly productive. There will then be no longer cause for com- plaint of the shortness of the working season in Cariboo, for quartz mining and tunnelling can be carried on all the year round. Nuggets mixed with quartz have been found at Lowhee, weighing 16 oz. I repeat that to organ- ise the apparatus requisite for conducting quartz-crushing operations, associated capital is indispensable ; and it may be confidently asserted that no country on the globe at the present moment offers such magnificent induce- ments in this respect, to men of energy and means, as British Columbia does. Not a tithe of the Cariboo regi(m is yet explored, and this area of country embraces, never- theless, but an insignificant section of the gold-bearing streams that head towards the liock Mountains from Peace River in the north to Eock Creek, on the confines 9^9 TIIK MINES OP BRITISfl COLUMBIA. of Wasliington Territory. I have no hesitation in saying that, in three years from now, tlie advance in the yield of gold in proportion to the population will be beyond con- ception. Advices from Cariboo to November 1, 1864, inform lis that the weather continued delightful — sunshiny and warm— imore like May than November weather. Markets quite overstocked. Flour selling at 32c. to 35c. pei' lb. bacon, 50c. to 75c. per lb. ; butter, $1 25c. per lb. ; coffee, $1 per lb. ; beef, 40c. per lb. ; mutton, 40c. to 45c. per lb. ; rice 45c. to 50c. per lb. ; beans, 30c. to 40c. per lb. ; sugar, 50c. to 62^^c. per lb. ; tea, $1 to SI 25c. per lb. ; syrup, 65c. per lb. ; potatoes, 20c. to 25c. per lb. ; turnips, 10c. to 20c. per lb. ; cabbage, 35c. per lb. ; onions, 50c. per lb. ; nails, 50c. to 624c. per lb. Clothing, a shade above New Westminster prices ; cordwood, 512 per cord; sawn lumber, 10c. to 12ic. per foot ; stakes, $b per hundred. Miners' wages, ,^10 per day of ten hours. The population in William's Creek v^as about 1,500 ; about 700 or 800 of whom would probably winter there. There was very little sickness on the creek. The Shuswap Ditjgimjs, east of Lytton, about 150 miles, are likely, when better known, to become the centre of an important settlement. The Kootanie Di(jgmgs. — The district so named lies close to the foot oftheEocky Mountains, and also to the United States boundary. Eumours have been in circulation as to the existence of gold in that section of the country for two years, but it was only in 1864 that the ground was thoroughly tested, and the discovery will probably turn out to be the most important yet made in British Columbia. These mines have the peculiar advantage of being in alti- KOOTANIE MINES. 253 111 in staying :hc yield of eyoud cou- 164, inform nsliiny and !r. Markets 35c. per lb. ic. per lb.; 3n, 40c. to ns, 30c. to tea, $1 to es, 20c. to ; cabbage, c. to 624c. ster prices ; 124c. per ps, ^10 per Creek \'^as d probably ss on the 150 miles, entre of an ;d lies close the United culation as le conntry he ground probably in British jing in alti- tude much lower, and in latitude much more southerly, than those of Cariboo, and thus are more conveniently situated for being worked during the greater part of the year. They are, besides, more easy of access for migra- tions of those who are dissatisfied from time to time with the mines of Boise and Idaho. As the mines of Kootanie (or as it is often spelt Koota- nais) are destined ere long to become as familiar to the English public as were those of Cariboo a few years since, I am happy in being able to place before the reader two official documents, both of recent dates, which will convey a more trustworthy notion of this auriferous region than could be aflbrded by any })rivate communication. The first of these dociunents is a despatch from Mr. Ilayncs, gold commissioner for the district, to the Government. It is dated Kootanais, Wild Horse Creek, August 30, 1864 : — To the Colonial Secretary. Sir, — I have the honour to submit for the information of Hi.s Excellency the Governor the subjoined facts relative to the mines in this district. There are about one thousand men here, including miners, shopkeepers, and labourers. The mines as far as discovered on this creek extend for about four miles and a half, and are divided into five hundred claims of 100 feet each, including creek and bar. The following list shows the amounts taken daily from ten of the best claims on the stream : Co. —Six men employed. Yield per day, ^^400— during •veek ending 3rd September, 134 oz. Co. — Twelve men working. Yield per day, ^200 — during week ending 3rd September, 158 oz. Co. — Thirteen men employed. Yield per day $A1A — during week ending 3rd September, I. 58 oz. Co. — Fourteen men employed. Yield per day, $\29 — during week ending 3rd September, 143 oz. Amount of gold 254 THE MIXES OF lilllTISIl COLUMBIA. taken from this claim during the month of August last 719^ oz., or ^12,948, at the value of gold here. Co. — Twelve men employed. Yield per day, ^1,()14 — four days' sluicing, ,8^4,176. Co. — Nine men employed. Yield per day/,^ 108— during the week ending 3rd September, 36 oz. c*c Co. — Fifteen men employed. Yield per day, ^600 — during week ending 3rd September, ,^3,600, or 200 oz. • Co. — Seventeen men employed. Yield per day, ,^720 — during week ending 3rd September, J^4,320, or 240 oz. Co. — Twelve men employed. — Amount taken out per day, (^200 — during week ending 3rd September, ,$1,200, or 66^ oz. Co. — Four men employed, rocking. Yield per day $1 33 — during week ending 3rd September, $798, or 44^ oz. Ordinary claims here pay from $20 to $30 a day to the hand. A large ditch is now being made here by Messrs. & Co., at an altitude to command the hill on which this town stands, and which prospects we'd. When this work shall be completed a much greater number of claims can be opened than at present, as there is a great lack of water. A nuororet weifjhing 37 ounces was found in the claim of & Co., on the 2nd inst. This is a beautiful specimen of puro gold, and, I believe, the largest found north of the parallel. Several pieces of gold, weighing from one to nine ounces, have also been picked up here. l^abourers are paid at the rate of seven dollars a day. There are about fifteen men living on Finlay's Creek, distant fifty miles from this, but owing to the frequent freshets to which that stream is subject, nothing worth mentioning in the way of mining has been done up to the present time. No mines in addition to the above-mentioned have as yet been discovered in this district. The Indians in this part of the country are harmless and well disposed. I made it my duty to meet the chief of this tribe — Michael — and his principal retainers h( ve a few days after my arrival, and explained to them that His Excellency the Governor would protect the interests of the red men as well as the white ; i mi. uiKcii.s Ri:roiiT. 255 ast 719^ oz., ly, ^1,044— 108 — during- (lay, ^600— I oz. clay, ^720— oz. ken out per , ^1,200, or per day ,^133 Loz. to the hand. & Co., to\yn stands, completed a n at present, aim of nen of pure the parallel, ounces, have day. •eek, distant lets to which the way of as yet been ess and well this tribe — ys after my e Governor s the white ; and further, that His Excellency would expect them to act in a ri;^ht and proper manner. After treatinj^ them to a good din- ner and makinj,' them a few presents, they left well pleased. A ^reat deal of prospecting is being done here in the way of tunnelling, sinking shafts, and otherwise, so that I have before the close of the season to have the honour of reporting fresh discoveries. I have, vtc, John C. ITaynks. List of prices of provisions at Wild Horse ('re(>k, District of Kootanais : flour 40c.; bacon, ^1; beans, 50c.; sugar, 70c.; coffee, $1 ; tea, $2 25 ; beef, 30c. ; dried apples, 60c. ; butter, ^1 50; lard, 80c. ; tobiicco, $2 50: candles, 75c. From the British Columbia ' GovcrnniGnt Gazette,' we obtain tlie following report of the late official trip to the Kootenay country by Mr. Colonial Secretary Birch : — Colonial Secretary's ( )irice, New Westminster, October HI, 18(54. SiK, — I have the honour to report to you my return from visiting the Kootenay District. I much regret that my absence has been prolonged beyond the time I had anticipated, in con- sequence of the far greater distance of the mining portion of that district from the town of Hope than I had been led to expect from the reports that had reached New Westminster beft)re my departure. Leaving Ifope on 2nd September, in company with ^h: Bushby and ]\[r. Evans, we crossed the Cascade range to Prince- ton, a distance of 75 miles, in three days, and following the beautifid valley of the Similkameen, we reached the custom- house at Osoyoos on the 8th of September. From Osoyoos we proceeded by way of Kock Creek, where we found several Chinamen and five white men employed in mining on the lower portion of the stream. The latter were taking out from 6 to 8 dollars a day to the hand, and, from information I was enabled to gather on the spot, it only requires an influx of miners to develope the resources of this once famous creek. After leaving this we followed the N-whoy-alpit-kwu, or Kettle 256 TIIK MINKS OF BRITISH COLIMBIA. Kiver, as far as Boundary Creek, where we left tlie old Culville trail and proceeded by the new Hudson's Bay Company's trail, which continues through British territory, and after some 15 miles struck the old trail ajrain on the Grande l^rairie. With the exception of a very few miles the entire route from Bock Creek lies through a fine rolling prairie country, thinly woodod and abotmding in bunch grass. Tlie Orande Prairie is a magnificent level plateau of some 1.5 miles in length by 8 in Ijreadth, admirably adapted for grazing and agricidture ; it is almost encircled by the Kettle Biver, the banks of which for some distance on either side consist of a deej) rich soil. My intention was to have continued on the new trail to Fort Shepherd without passing into American territory, but on learn- ing from the Indians whom we met on the Grande Prairie that the trail from Fort Shepherd to the Kootenay Lake was extremely rough and bad for horses, I deemed it prudent to proceed to Fort Shepherd by way of Colville, where I was enabled to have some of the horses, which had become foot-sore, properly shod at the United States barracks, through the kindness of the officer in command of the garrison. After a delay of two days at Colville, wo started for Fort Shep- herd, a newly erected trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, situated in a wild and barren spot, some 2 miles northward of the Boundary Line, and 40 miles from Colville. Here we had to swim the horses in a very rapid part of the Columbia a short distance above the Pend d'Oreille River. I find that the trail from this point to the Kootenay Valley, which passes over a densely wooded mountain, a distance of some 20 miles, was opened out in the early spring by 'the merchants of Colville, but what additions or improvements have since been made by the employes of the Hudson's Bay Company, I am at a loss to conceive. No attempt has been made to grade the steep inclines in any way, and it seems to have been the ambition of the road party to carry the trail through as many swamps as possible, taking the trail over some high bluff only to return again to the swamps beneath. -MK. llIRcn S HKI'Oin'. •_'.■>: old Culville ipany's trail, :er some lo lirie. With ! from Kofk inly wooded L of some 1 .') for grazing le Kiver, the jist of a deep trail to Fort )ut on learn- Prairie tliat as extremely iceed to Fort :o have some I shod at the he officer in Fort Shep- ,y Companj'^, Ihward of the part of the River. may Valley, mce of some merchants le since been ly, I am at a [lines in any road party kible, taking Irain to the t Tlic best cvidciioi' I cin give of I lie iittrr nsch'ssiicss of tlir work done under (lie iiiispiccs of tlic Hudson's j'jiy ('ompiiiiv, is ill the disaster which has happened to one of the Company's t»wii ])ack-trains, which started to cross this portion of the trail at the same time as myself, under tlu; charge of Mr. F.inklater ; this train was 14 days in reaching the Kootenay N'alley, and lost six horses, one of which disappeared with its entire pack i>l' 2.')() ll)s of Hour. As the trail at ])resent exists it would be impossible for packers t(» jiass through this |>ortion without carrying tbod for their animals. There is good feed about 12 miles from i''ort Siic])lu'rd, and again at the summit of the iiioiiiitaiiis, which t'oriii the divide hetween the valleys of the ('oiiiml)ia and Kootenay rivers. The distance from the first feed to the sunmiit is 34 miles, an(l again, from the summit to the Kootenay some lU) miles must be passed over with<»ut finding suthcient grass for more than one pack-train. We struck the Kootenay Kiver about 4 miles from the u|)per end of the great Kootenay or Flatbow Lake. This portion of the valhy is quite level and composed of rich alluvial soil, and much resembles that of Pitt Kiver at this season, abounding as it does ill swamp grass and rank vegetation ; it is evidently one continuous lake during the earlier period of the year. The river itself is broa<l, steep, and sluggish. The Kootenay Indians are by far the finest specimens of the race that I have yet seen, and are among the — I fear — few tiibes remaining that have not been demoralised by contamination with the white man. I believe, with few exceptions, tlic'y have become converts to Christianity, and it was a pieasin*' si<dit - < see the chief of the tribe, who accompanied me on my road t\ some days, kneel down before each repast and thank God for his daily bread. They ap])eared much pleased with a few presents which I made them of needles, fish-hooks and tobacc(», and during the time that we were within the district of the eastern tril)(> we were generally followed by a large cavalcade. A large num- ber were encamped in the valley at their fishing grounds; rhey were very friendly, and rendered us every assistance in helping to swim our horses and cross our baggage over the Kriotenav S lioS Tin: MINKS or iiimtisii (hmmiiia. Hiv»'r; (liis WfiiccoinpIislMMl witli safrty, neai'K pJinillfl with tlic Ii(tmi(liiry liinc, havin<{ travelled some 20 miles up llic vallcv after leaving' the newly-math- trail. Oil leaving; the river we were el)li<'e(l to (liver<;e some 10 miles into American territory, when we Joined the Lewiston and NN'alia Walla trail, whieh follows u\> the Mooyie I\iver to tlie lakes, from which the river takes its rise, thronj^h a thickly tindtei'ed and somewhat mountainons conntry, where we fonnd it very diffienlt to find food for onr horses. From these lakes to the mines, a distance of ahont 40 miles, the eonntry aj^'ain opens ont, and nothing can exceed the j^nandenr of the scenery as we now appnjached tlie Kocky Mountains. We arrived at the mines on the 20th day from Hope, and I cannot estimate the distance travelled over in this period at less than 190 miles, th()u<,di in this it should be remembered that I include the (h;toiir of liO miles which I made by way of Colville. I found al)out 700 men resident at the mines, and I was in- formed that at least 300 were out prospecting in the neijj^hbour- hood ; but although numerous reports of new and extensive iliscoveries reached the creek daily during my staj', I could obtain no information suflficiently authentic to place any credence in them. The mining is therefore at present entirely confined to one creek, called by the miners ' Wild Horse Creek,' which takes its rise within the confines of the Kocky ^Mountains, and flows into the Kootenay Kiver, northward of the 50th parallel of latitude. The creek is at present worked for about 4 miles, commencing some 2 miles from its junction with the Kootenay. I visited most of the claims, and found them all paying well, and, with few exceptions, the entire community appeared well satisfied with the laws to which they were subject. At the time of my arrival, 50 sluice companies were at work, employing from 5 to 25 men, and taking out from ,^300 to ^1 ,000 per diem. One hundred rockers were averaging from 2 oz. to 6 oz. per diem. Ml!. iiii!( II < i!i:i'«>i;r. 'ly.) I with til.' he VuUt'V some 1<> ,iston iuul ■cv to the ii tlii«"UIy we fuUUtl 40 miles, xceed the he Kocky npe, and I riod at less red that I l)y way of I was iu- iiei^hhour- extensive y, I could iiy credence lied to one ill takes its flows into )f latitude, mmencing I visited [1, with few lisfied with •e at work, P to ^1,000 6 oz. per I'lii^dil ei>iii)>;iiiirs h;i\(' rdinmt'ni'fd iiinniMi,' tiiiiiH-ls inio tin- side «»f till' hill, liiif till' (lold Hill ( 'oiiipMiiy was the only oiir suflieiciitly advaiiiTd In lircoinr rciiiiiiH'ialivf : thi^ cunipaiiy was taking' out nearly an oniiee to the hand per diem. Four shafts were Iteint; sunk in the hed of tiie creek, Imt at my departure no satisfactory resnlts had heeii ohtained, althoMnh all parties interested seemed contident of success. Seventy men wci'e employed in const met iii<,' a lar^v npper ditch, some .'> ndles in leiiL^th, which it was expected would he completed early in the present month, when more than 100 hill claims, winch were lyin«4' (»ver for want of water, wonld com- mence woi'k. The few hill claims at present workiny are found to ho richer than the bed of the creek, the opening' of the ditch is therefore looked forward t<t with much interest. liahourers were recei\in<4 87 a day, iuid the price (jf piovisions enabled them to live well for »*<l..)0 per diem. A town of no inconsidcrahle size; has already sprunLf up upon the creek. Four restam'ants are established ; the I'ate of cliarj^^'s for regular boarders average $\4 to ii\H per week. Xnmeroiis sidtstantial stores have been erected. A larj^c brewery had also been esta])lished and had commenced workiiii;'. (ireat uncertainty prevails as to the period at which the wintei- fairly sets in, b\it it was exiM'cted that tlu; seven." frosts would not commence before Novcnd)er, and it was therefore the inten- tion of Mr. Haynes to alhtw all claims to lie over from the 1st \ovend)er to 1st of .May. From the number of loo- huts in the coiu'se of construction, it is estiinated that froni .'iOO to 400 persons will winter at the mines. The ,f,'old taken from these mines is considered by the tradei-s to equal the best (^ilifornian gold. The price at which it passes current on the creek is $\H the ounce, and j)ackeis goin<>- down are glad to purchase at that price. I was very anxious to obtain some approximate return of tiie amount of gold taken from the creek during the season, but I found it impossible to do so. Careful accounts are kept by the miners of the receipts and disbursements for the week, but as each Sunday comes round the division of profits is made, or s -2 « 2(10 Tin: MINKS nr IJiUTlSII (OIAMIIIA. more |tiu|M'iIy spciikiii},', tlicic is it oriicral .s(|nai'«' up, iit'tri' wliicli iill iiccrmuts to that (lute air dtstrnyt'd. TIh' cainp is well supplied with all the iirccssarirs (if life. I c'li{'h)S(' u list of prices of the chief artich's. It is roidideiitly expected hy the tra(h'is tiiat there will he a ruHli (»f from 1(),()()() to l.'),0()() miners from the Jioise country in the spriii<,% and Iar;,fe supplies are still liein;;' sent in to the nuuL's. On our return we met 10 or 12 heavily laden pack trains daily. 'I'he entire suppliis are at present packed up from Tiewlston, W'idla Walla, NN'aliulii, and I'matilla Landing,', in \Vashin''t(»n Territory atid the State of Oreodii. The cattle came direct frttm Salt Lake City, and jire some of the tinest I iiave ever seen. The distuncos from these places are as fellows : — Wild Horse Creek to i,ewistoii . .'542 miles. !)(.. do. to Wid la, Walla . 4().S do. Do. d... to Wallula . . 4:\H do. Do. do. to Umatilla Landin<' 4.j.'i do. The present charges for packin;^' from these places ranges from 2()c to 24c per Ih. A trail tlirough Hritish territory, either by way of tlie Sluiswap or (irand<^ Prairie, cannot I thiid< exceed 400 miles. The mer- chants of this colony need therefore have little fear of being able to comjjete with the American merchants, when it is remembered t»» what an enormously liigh taritf American goods are now subject. Mr. ITaynes had collected a large amount of revenue, con- sidering the short time that he had been resident in the district. I found his treasury to consist of an old portmanteau, which he zealously guarded by night and day, in the log hut in which he is at present living. At the urgent re(juest of Mr. Haynes, I relieved him of a portion of his responsibility, by taking over some T^lbs. weight of gold. This f brought down with me, and have safely deposited in the hands of the Treasurer. It is an interesting incident for Mr. Evans, Mr. Hushbv, and myself to remend)er that we were the tirst Ml!. I'.IIJCII S i:i:i'(>l!T •jc.l up, llf'tlT ..f lilr. 1 • will ln' a sc roimtry \ ill to tlio ladt'ii pack ('(1 M|» tVom iaixiiit*.;, ill cattle c.'iTnc est I have miles. (iu. (I... (In. ranges tVoiii le Sliuswap Tlie mer- ir of beiiij^ kvhou it is Incaii <foo(ls [.♦'line, con- he district. |i, whicli lie II which he lof a portion mt of gold, pited in the ■nt for Mr. \erc the first ( L;nld escuit direct t'ldiii the U'tickv Moiiiitiiiii.s to the seahoard ot' t lit' Cii|ii||\ . We lett the iiiiiii's oii ( Ktolier I, iiiid I iiiiich reyretted that lime wtiiild Hot ailitw ot" my retiirniu'^ liv s'lme uthcr luiite than the line I had already tra\'elled nver, as I tee! very euntident tiiat tor many reasniis it is ii(»t the niii' to he adeptrd liy the (iovernnieiit. Since my rt'tiirn to New Westminster I learn that a stirveyinjjf party has already started, hy way of Kamlonps and the Shnswap Lake. They will doiihtless follow the Indian trail, and strike the Colnmhia near the Arrow Lakes; Imt hi'fore any decision is arrived at in the matter, I am \ery anxious that the portion of the country lying hetween the (J ramie Prairii' and tlu' jnnetion!} of till' Kooteiiay and C'oliimhia Rivers should he explored. I am told hy Mr. A. McDonald, who is resident at the JFiidson IJay Company's Fort at C'olville, and who is well known as an i-xperieiiced hunter, tlwit, striking nearly due north from the ( I rami Prairie, there is a low divide, the commencement of which we could plainly distinguish, hy which }-ou are enahled to reach the Columhia with great ease, nearly opposite to the Kooteiiay liiver. The entire country from Princeton to the (Jrajide Prairie, a distance of some KiO miles, is almost free from tiinher ; ahounds in food for cattle ; the trail throughout is excellent, and with the exception (»f a small distance on the Similkameeii, no expenditure would he re([uired in improving it, and indeed littU; would be reijuired in making the same into a waggon road. The exploration of the short distance I have referretl to might easily he accomplished during the winter months, and if found feasible might be opened out in a very short time. I would therefore suggest for your consideration, that .Mr. Ilaynes l)e at oiice empowered to expend a small sum on this work. I have little of sufficient interest to re|)ort relative to our return journey, which would excuse me for continuing this alri'ady lengthy ri'jiort : we arrived at Hope in 24 days from Wild Horse Creek, having experienced most lovely weather ; we had only to record two wet days thioughoiit tlu' whoK pcriiul (»f ■H'rl Till-: MINKS or I'.UITISII C(H,UMHIA. our it.bsciK'C, iiud notliing cuii exceed the eluirms of tliis eliiiiatc lor caiiii) life. We foiind gjiiiu' abimdaiit over the whoh^ trail, and were enabled without difliculty or delay to keep the camp well sup- plied, thouj^di I must own that on occasions we had descended so low in the game list as to eat poicupiiie with a relish. 1 cannot conclude this letter without expressinjf my sense of the admirable manner in which Mr. Kaynes has carried out his duties under most difiicult circumstances ; arriving as he did with only one constable to assist him, among- fi body of \, '){){) millers from the adjcuning t(n'rit(U'ies, many of whom were known to be utterly regardless of law and order ; he found them handed together, making their own laws and metin«>' out their own ideas of justice; each man, as man}' have owned to me, carrying his Hie in his hands. In fact, so insecure had life and property become in the eyes of many of the miners that Mr. Dore, on(! of the original discoverers of the creek, and a few ot tns, had formed themselves into a committee, and drawn u|> a code of laws, which they intended enforcing on thecomnnmity had not a (iovern«nent officer arrived at the moment. Copies of these laws were handed to me by ]\rr. Dore, and I enclose them as interesting documents. I would add that the fjentlemen forming this committee have cheerfully rendered ^Ir. Haynes every assistance in th(,'ir power in nuiintaining law and order. [ arrived, witliin six weeks of Mr. Haynes' residence in the disti'ict, to find tlie nuning Liws of the colony in full force, all Customs duties |)a,id, no pistols to be seen, and everytlnng as (|uiet and orderly as it could possibly be in the most civilized district of the col(»ny, mueli to the surprise and admiration of manv who remember the earlv davs of tlie neiojibourinu- State of California. I have the honour to lie, sir, Yowv most ol)edient servant, Ahthtu N. Biiuh. His Kxcellencv Ficderiek Seymour. /^f;/(//i'i/s iKiiili-ircsl iij' tlh' Fi'dscr. — Suflicicnt [)r<)s])Lr liii'j li;is Ih'cii ;it(c'ni|tl<.'(l 1<» prove the oxislcncc of the .MI.\I\(J LAWS. Zl>.) liis climate , and weic [) well siip- eaceiided sd I. ny .sense ut' ied out liifi ;• as lie did ly of i,r>oo whom well' found tlietn o- out their ned to me, lad life and rs that Mr. , ami a few (1 drawn u|> community L Copie.s (jf iclose them i^entlemeu r. Hayne.s lid order. nee in the I force, all ythino^- as st civilized liration of irinuf State lilt, j)r()sj)i.'i' rr of the i prceious int't;il in tliiit sertioii of the country. Hridge liiver. Lillot't, LajstCIiniicc, Ik'llu Coola, iSkeciui, aiidXass, have furnishod indication.^ of being eniiuently auriferotis. Of tlie Stiekeen lliver, which has its source in the same mountains with Peace liiver, it is conlidentlv allirnuMl, by many who liave visited that locality, that good wage-< can now be earned on some of its l)ars, and tliat in future years it is certain to become a centre of mining industry. When the nt(Uri,i\ whence issue the granular particles foimd on the ]:)anks of tlie Stickeen, is reat'hed, the disclosure of a second Cariboo will rewai-d the toil and patience of explorers. Little effort has been made as yet to discover minerals and the baser metals in British Columbia. I liave seen a large l)iece of jitu'c coi)])er from Stickeen. Indications luive also been found of })lundjago, lead, iron, platinum, and tin, and the coimtry is believed to aboimd in coal and limestone. The )nin'ni(j lau'.s of tlie colony are given in cwtenm in the A])pendix. Only the points most interesting to intend- iuix emiorants are here sid)mitted. The governor is empowered to appoint gold commis- sioners who, within certain districts,may issue 'free miners' certificates,' authorising the holder to mine upon crown lands, and may registei' claims (or allotments of auriferoiLs land to individual mineis). The sum of 1/. is chargetl for a certljlcate, which must be countersignetl by the miner, and is not transferable. 8s. 4d. has also to be paid for the reoisti'ation of the claim. Ceitificate and reoistration are valid for one year. The gold commissioner is possessed of the authority of a justicie of the peace, with power to try all the dis])utes of miners. He is appointed judge of law and fact, subject to appeal to the Supreme Coiut of the colony, when in civil cases the value of the niattei' in liliuation exceeils 204 TIFK MINKS OF UKITISII (JOLUMBiA. 20/., or wliL'ii ill ciiiiiiiial jiuisdictioii tlie ihnj uxcccds that sum, or tlie inipri;<()iiineiit exceeds ?UI diiys. Tlie governor may lease auriferous lauds on conditions specified in the several proclamaticjus aflectiug mining interests. Mining botu'ds arc ])erniitted to be established in any districts where deemed necessary by a given number of miners, to make by-laws resj)ecting the size of claims, sluices, and thuiujs connected witli mininu' sienerallv. The size of registered claims, which are usually in dry, bar, bench, or ravine diggings, is 100 feet square ; in quartz claims 150 feet alomjf the vein. Discoverers receive s])ecial advantage in the allotment of claims, accordiuL>- to their number. Provision is made for letting exclusive water privilege, for which a rent is paid to the Government. For a clear and useful digest of mining laws, with all requisite explanations, the work of Mr. l^irk, barrister, pubUslied in Victoria, V^ancouver Island, slioidd be consulted. Note. — The followimr extract is from an interesting letter adilrcssed to me by a re[)resentative of one of the largest miniuijr concerns in British Columbia. The date of the communication is Gth of December 1804, and its value consists in the exact and candid accoimt it liives of the condition of the gold mining interest at Cariboo during hist season : — I concentrated all the men on our niaiu claim on Creek in order, if ])ossil)le, with the available means at command, to lit) down with our sliaft this season. I had to rebuild our wheel whicli was smashed at the beginning of last winter by the severe frost, sink a new shaft niucli larger than the former one, and superior in every p(»int of view to any in the colony. We had every confidence as to success; hut the wooden pum|)s wi're our (Utliculty. I am now fully convinced, after the experience I I XOTK O.V CAinBOO. •205 lie exceeds coiulitioiKs ivy llllUllin;- led ill any iiuiiibei- ()t' of claims, dly in dry, ; ill quartz allotment ■ privilege, a clear and [)lanatioiis, 1 Victoria. sting letter ;lie largest ute of the I its value OS of the luriuix lust Creek inniand, to ebiiild our liter by the H-iner one, lony. We limps were iperience I i lowever skiltul, will ever have liiid, tliat no company of men, 1 reach the bottom of our deep .li-giiios here without the aid p.»werful iron pumps and iixinus if not steai (.) if m power, which eventually must begot, as we have not surface water enou-h where it is wcutte,!, to work them efficiently. In the inea<Om-s, called, on Williams' Creek, where so much where operations have been foin* tlie distance of about 3 mil failed f( was expected, and on on a very extended scale for es, in every instance the mines 1 lave the r want of ;ide(iuate machinery and pumps. This will appear more provoking when I say thiit we do not re(iiiire tn-eater power in any of the claims than is found in ordinary uxhies in the old country. The waggon road is now complete to Cot- tonwood ; 1-) or 16 miles more will bring it to the bottom of \N illiams' Creek. Then machinery can be taken up the whole (hstance. We have lost the whole season in fighting with our difficulties, having inadetpiate means to cope with "them. In reality, they are not difficulties, had we the necessary appliances at hand to overcome them. Still, with all the disappointments' and f/te>/ have been many this year, more yold ivas sent doivn from Cariboo than In any previous year. lic.r. ciiArTi<:u X. I'HOCKSS OF MIM\(i, l']>M'iitials lor ciiri'viiif.'' on .Mining Opt'ration.'^ .sncccs.st'ully — 'I'lic Art ol ' l'ros]u'('fin<r'— 'J'lio I'se of tin; iJocker— Sluicing — Hvdraiilic Mining — Water ('oni])anie.s— The ' Fliitter-whoel ' — Turning ii Ifivcr out of its I'lcd — ' (iround Sluicing ' — 'J'unnclling— Quartz .Mining — The iJastra — ("rusliiiig (Quartz bv Steam I'owor — ' (Quartz, the Mother of (iold.' To tlio iiiteiKliiig emigrant uiivcrsod in the art of (.'xtructing gold, a general description of the nietliods employed for this purpose may not be uninteresting. It is hardly necessary to remark tlitit this metal derives its value fj'oni its comparative rareness and the diflicidties encountered in ])rocurmg it. Any one, therefoi'e, imagining that — the scene of operations reticlied — he can pick up the object of his search without obstruction or delay, had better, while under that delusion, make up his mind to remain at home. Should he rt;fuse warning and i)ersist in indulging Utopian expectations, his folly will be visited with vexatious consequences, Thr(!c great essentials in eflfectually carrying on uiining operations are water, wood, and quicksilver. In some parts of California tlie want of the first of these materials oilers a serious hindrance to tlie labour of tlie uiiner, which ctm only be compensated by elaborate and costly ti])[)lijmces. It sometimes happens in tluit State tluit even where steam qiuu'tz mills are at work, anysmtdl volume of Avater required to supply them nuist be conveyed in llmnes a disttmce of forty miles, and in some insttmces more than double that distance. In Xew Zealand wood I Ily— Til." All ol ilnuilif -Miiiiiifi- — lii\<'r out of its ; — 'I'lio l{u>tru — ■(.f (iold.' I tiie art of tlie methods XTL'stillg. It 111 derives its lie difficulties 3, therefore, led — lie can jstructioii or )n, make iij) 'use warniii<^ 'lis, his folly carrying on ksilver. In rst of these ibour of the aborate and 1 tliat ^tate k, any small be conveyed lie instances aland wood • l'l{OSI'i:(TIN(i. 2(17 is felt to be the ureal (/'sidcrdf/nii. Thcdrc of (|iii»'ksil\i'r, whicli is u^^uallv Ibuiid to exist in u'old-producinL:' countries, has been discovered in lU'itisii Columbia, though the utilisation ol' it has hitherto been neglected ; conse- (|uently the colony isdc})endent for su])|)lies ol'([uicksilvei' on California. Watei- and wood, however, liritish Columbia contains in abundance, and the mountainous i'i>'ii>i'i:( Tiiii- WilKK. charactiM' of the country enables the miner to divert t»» his purpose torrents, the economic power of which would otherwise be much less valuable* in his operations. The metallic sand in whicii gold is found is ])riniarily sought, and the peculiar quality of eailh that contains the amalgam is t(H'hnicallv called the ' colour.' While enL>-aLrcd in the })ursuit of this indication of the presence of gold, the miner is •pi'os|)ecting.' The re(|uisitcs for this task aic a 'pair and some (inicksilvcr. When the miner •iC.S l'l{(JCi:SS OF MININ(i. comes ton spot oil tlic l);iiik of m river wliicli lie siij)|)oses to be uurii'erous. lie proceeds to test the vjiliu; of the * (hrt ' in th(> followiiiu' niiuiiier. Ilaviiisx filled the ])aii Avith earth, he gently dij)s it in the stream, and by the assistance of a I'otatory motion Avhich he gives to its contents, loosened by the introduction of Avater, the black sand with pel)bles is precipitated to the bottom. The lighter earth is allowed to ])ass over the (j({<si) of the pan or basin. After {ill has been removed exce[)t the sand and any specks of gold that may be m coml)iiiatinn with it, the pan is])laced by a lire or in the sun to diy. The lighter particles of sand are blown away, and if the gold be very Ihie it is amalgamated Avith quicksilver. ])y thus ascertaining the value of the remaining particles of gold dust, skilful 'prospectors' conclude whether the ground would pay to work. In this rough method of searching for gold the su[)erior specific gravity of that metal over every other, except platinum, is the basis of operations — amiferous [)articles, on this principle, settling at the bottom. The readiest and most primitive contrivance for wash- ing gold is the ' rocker,' which is still used by Cliina- meii, and a few white men, on the banks of the Fraser. The rocker is constructed like a child's cradle, with rockers underneath. This box is o^ to 4 feet long, about '2 feet wide and Ti fc'ct deep. The up[)er i)art and one end are open, and the sides gradually slope toward the bottom. At the head is a section closely jointed with a sheet-iron bottom, perforated so as to admit of small stones passing through. Along the bottom of the rocker rjllles * or elects are arranued to arrest the <>old. This apparatus phicedon the margin of the river, the u[)periron box is fed by one miner with earth, and by another is ' riu'M' ;iic .-liip> of wood oi- iiit.tal amiiifjetl irt'tcr tlio iiiaiiiici' of .1 Wiirliaii hliml. RO(;KlN(i •J(i< (i!) he sii])|)osc's of the ' dirt' lie pMii with he iissistance its contents, uk siind witli lighter cartli an or basin, d any specks pan is])laced !i' particles of ^'eiy line it is ertainini; the dust, skilful vould pay to for gold the every other, i — aiu'iferous torn. ce for Avash- by Cliiua- the Fraser. radle, with lonu", about u't and one toward the ited with a nit of small :' the rocker -old. This e u[)periron i another is e luamivr ul' .1 rocked and sM])])lic'(l with water. 'I'he ^ohl and pebble )assin<jf down to the 1' bott oni. he water cairies awav the latter, and tlie rillles detain the former. In case thi* )ld 111 •t of a blanket •fteii laid ah th( o'oitl IS very ime, pait ot a DiaiiKet is oiieii laid alonu' tne under box, covered with quicksilver to attract the gold dust. By this simj)le agency from 1/, to 10/. ])er day and upwards to the hand has been realised. In an ordinary sluice 10 or 50 lbs. of quicksilver is employed daily, and in a . >''i{<i, ■.l"■ \Vci|(KlN(; WITH rili. l.'iKKt.li rocker from (S to 10 ihs. J^)ut after the gold has been retorted from it, the same f|uicksilver may be a[)plied several times over. The next method to be described, and the one most prevailing on the raciiic, is Slinrifn/. 'J'his is a process of miiung that can be conducted on any scale and in connection Avith the labour of an indeiinite number of men. It is almost invariably Ibund in con- junction witli a system of ■flumes' or wooden a(|ii('(lucts 270 I'KOCKSS or .MIM.\<i. of \}iii(His cxlciit, luiiiiiiiu |).ii;ill('l willi lln' chiiiiis oil ii ci'cck ()!• I'ivc'i". It is iR'ccssary, in s(']);ii';irni,Lr tiic eartli fV(Uii tin; ^iold wliicli is mixed willi it, that cacli .sluice sliould he supplied with a fall of watei', and if the stream eontiu'uous to the mine run on too low a level to suj)ply this want, minei's, as has l)i'en already state(l, are often eom|)elle(l to ;io considerable distances in (|uest of water sufllcientlv elevated to all'oi'd the ohii'ct desii-ed. Khimes are thus hroufrlit into re(|uisilion, and by openinL!s made in that side of them o|)posite the mine, watei- is admitl " to the sluice, which is ])lace(l at such an angle uat the water may have force enough to carry oil" the earth, while leavinu' tiie i^old behind. ^^luice-boxes are of vaiious sizes, and are fitted closely together so as to form a strongly built and extended trough. The fall of the w^ater in the sluice-l)ox is adjusted to allow suflicient time for the rillles and (piicksilver to urre.st tlie gold as it])asses, and the sup})ly from the Hume is regulated by a slide in the ojiening on the side of it. The bottom of each sluice is usually intersected Avith strips of wood, and in the interstices of this grating quicksilver is spread to intercept the fine gold in its descent, nuggets and grains of coarse gold being caught by the grating itself. The sluice is supported on tru.ssels so as to raise or leaver it to the level convenient for shoveling in the earth. Several miners introduce ' dirt ' on either side, and others assist in loosening the heap and removing large stones, so that the gold may be easily ])recijiitated. lljldraulir minimi is entitled to some consideration. Bars that pay but a small return to the hand on the ordinary principle of working, will yield handsomely when operated upon by tlie iiydi'aidic method. Insepa- rably connected with this is a svstem of flumes oi- shiicic- IIVDUAI Ll( MININd. I'TI llic I'liiiiiis pariitiiijj: the it, tli.'it ciicli I', Mild if tlio w ii level to vin\y stiiU'd, * ices ill (inest )je('t desired. by opeiiiiijis lie, water is jit such Jill to carry oil' it ted closely id exteiidc^d X is adjusted licksilver to ill the lluine c side of it. lected with his cfratiui*: gold in its ^caught by trussels so veuieiit f(^i' duce ' dirt ' le heap and y be easily nsideratiou. nd on the landsomely 1. Insepa- or sluice- boxes. LTciierallv I I iiu'hes iu leimlli bv about •) feet in \vi(hli. Tliese are fastened togetlier at tlie ei»ds, and form a long and strongly built trough, e\teiide(l as far as may be necessary — sometimes thousands of feet. It is lined Avith thick wooden blocks, partly to resist the friction occasioned by the |)assage of the (li'hris, and also to allow room for (|uicksilver in the iiit*'rstices for attracting and liVltKM I.IC MININO. detaining the gold. Sometimes the quicksilver is i)lace(l in rillles, fixed transversely upon each other. This massive and continuous line of boxes is constructed near the bank about to be attacked. It is obvious that to bringdown millions of tons of earth with the ordinary appliances of manual labour would be a tedious and ])rolitless task. Another flume is therefore prepared for the purpose of bringing water from a level so much higher 979 I'KOCKSS Ol' MIM.Nci. tlmii tlic side of the liill to hv roduccMl as to scfurc toi- the sti'cjmi llius (livcrU'd u force ])oworiiil ciiouuli to do execu- tion upon tlu! injissesof eiirtli that are to l)e waslied down. Attaclied to this hitter flume is u common liose, consistin*^ of a double ply of canvas or gutta percha. 'J'in'ouj^h the iron mouth of tlu; hose, the volume of water, conduct(!(l in the manner described from a (convenient elevation, is directed against the bank, as when the jet of the fireman l)lays upon a burninjjf house. The skilful operator aims at eatinfj into the lower strata of the hill a cousi(leral>le way till theu|)per portion can no lonj^er be su})])orted. A signal is given as the moment of the threatened crash approaches that miners in dangerous proximity uiay betake themselves to a safe distance. After the huge masses of earth have fallen, the men return and shovel it into the sluice-lDOXcs tlu'ough which a volume of water passes that removes the dirt and precipitates the gold into the riffles. The expense attending this ingenious arrange- ment is often enormous in consequence of the long way water may have to be conveyed. Unproductive ground, too, may be fixed upon for bed-rock fluming. But when mining parties are so fortunate as to select the proper spot, the operation can hardly fail to be remunerative. One or two of these ' water-batteries ' brought to bear upon a hill side can effect more than could be done by 10(1 men with picks and shovels. Many localities in California are completely metamoqihosed by this hydraulic process. An interest intimately associated with the chief methods of mining that have been delineated, and one essential to their success, is that of the waterworks com|)anies. It has been shown that alluvial diggings often exist adjacent to streams whose level is too low to be of the least service in supplying water for mining purposes. To obtain an artificial supply of water in that exigency, these enter- WATKIl COMPAXIKS. 278 ccuiv I'or till' to do CXCHUI- .'jislicd down, sc, coiisist'm;^' riirougli till' r, conducted elevation, is ' the (irenuni pcrutor aims consideraMe ipj)oi'ted. A itened crash xiniity may er the huge ind shovel it lUie of water the gold into ious arrange- ,hc loni? wav ;tivc ground, But when ^ proper spot, ive. One or )ear upon a |by 100 men California are process. lief methods essential to nies. It has adjacent to st service in |) obtain an these enter- prising cor|)orations iniderlake diflieult and extensive works by which mountain streams are diverti'd from their channels through canals and ditches, following siiniosities of the hills, and where, if necessary, a grade is obtained to assist the fall of water by means of Humes. When these have to be formed across valleys at certain eleva- tions, they are pro[)ped by stout tressel-work. Water is furnished to the inininu; coniiianies alonii the course of the trunk aqueduct by lateral bi-anches. which tap tliis main artery, and water thus admitted into the branch Humes for the accimmiodation of separate mines is sold by the inch. This measurement is adjusted by a slide in the aj)erture communicating with the main af[ueduct, of a lixed breadth — the height ])eing bargained for. These ' ditch ' projects often prove a source of great emolument to the shareholders. In sinking a deep sliaft, the earth that is removed is hoisted up in buckets, and to abridge and expedite the labour connected witli this process, an overshot-wheel is erected near the top of the shaft, which is driven by the water passing through the branch flume. The dirt is emptied into a box, the interior of which resembles tluit of a rocker, and includes the apparatus of riffles, quicksilver, t^'C. This receptacle is known, in miners' phrase, as the ' dump-box,' for here the earth is loosened by dunqnmj. A subsidiary Hume expressly leads water into this box, and, as in rocking, by this action of the passing current the light earthy matter is carried off, the gold precipitated, and the stones left behind, wliicli are easily separated. To supersede the necessity, where it is possible to do so, of bringing water from a distance to work a rich mine, which is considerably elevated above the level of the river on whose banks it is fomid, a variety of ingenious inventions have been resorted to. I'he most connnon of T ? I 274 I'KOCKSS ol' MIMN(i. tlu'so is the ' llutU'i-wliccI,' \vlii<'Ii, in C'alilnniiii, ist'icdi'tl ill every (^oiiccivjiblc inaiiiuT, iiiid iiict'ts the cyt; nl' tlic tniVL'lKn' ill all directions. Its (liaiiu'ter is soiiu'tiiiics .'»(! I'l't't, and it is furiiislicd with buckets, so prepared as to catch the water of the liver, a coiisidcral)!*' (|iiaiitiiy of which is retained in tlieir u|)war(l revohitioii. At tlie l)oint wliere it Hows from thi' buckets, there is u trouji;h stan(Uii<i' to receive it, and throuith tliis it passes into tlie shii<H!-box wliere mining oj)erations are carried on. Among the fearless plans sometimes adoj)ted for I'xu- inining the holes and corners of an auriferous region, one of the most noteworthy is that by wliicli a river is turned out of its bed. In bed-rock llimiing the stream is col- lected into the narrow wooden duct that is placed in the middle of its natural channel. When a river is said to be ' jaumied,' a high barrier is constructed fi'om one side across. A small si)ace is left between the termination of this dyke and the op})osite side of the channel, for the water to escape. To preserve that part of the channel, from which the water has l)een diverted, dry, another barrier is formed at right-angles with the first, running parallel with that side of the river-bed through which the stream Hows. The layer of clay covering the bed-rock and. the crevices, or ' pockets,' of the rock itself are minutely ransacked, and often with very profitable results. The freshets of s[)ring generally prove disastrous t(j these bold undertakings, but with the destruction oi' the dykes, come new deposits of gold, occasioned by this annual enlargement of the stream ; so that the trouble of re- building for several seasons in succession is sometimes found to be amply repaid. ' Ground sluicing ' is now a very general, as it is a very convenient, method of getting at the ' pay-dirt.' When a section of the ancient bed of the stream has been alighted H iiUolMi sl.lU'lNu. 27.'> », ist'icrti'il I'VC nl' I lie lU'tiiiU's .'»0 Jill'cd ilS In <|U{iiititY <>'' 11. At the s {I troiiuli (sc's into \\\v. I on. '(I r<.)r (.'Xii- irioii, OIK' of [' is tuiMied L'iini is col- icecl ill the is said to be 111 one side ininutiou of iit'l, lor the lie diniinel, hy, anotlier I'st, running" 1 whicli the e bed-rock itself are able results, ms to these the dykes, his annual ublc of rc- sometinies it is a very When a .'en alighted ii|>oii, ill wjiich ilu' |)res('ne(' of M;nld i> indieatcd, bin ovrr \vlii«'h has aecuiiiiilatcfl ji layer of bari'eii earth, the only |)laii fonnciiy in ii>c I't woikiiiLT the aiirifcrtMis sfratiiiii was ' coyoteinix ' — a ten derived IVoiii th«' name of a wild {\()*s found in Cahfornia havii>{ja s|)eeial instinct for biirrowin^i. lint there aic cirnnnstaiuc'. in which the same I'esnlt can i)e accoinj)h>lird with n ^reat sivin^' of (IKOI'.VI) SI tICINfl. lime and labour by ground >hiicing, with tiie chance, also, of securing gohl, should any exist, in the upper earth. When the bed-rock does not lie very dee|) from the surface, instead of sinking a shaft or making an oj)eniiig horizontally, the top dirt is removed by turning a strong jet of water upon the bank, which is soon reduced, and by the helj) of })icks and shovels the old channel of the river is laid bare. TUo force of the water carries oil' the T J i 270 I'ROCKSS OF MIXIXCi. fV'bris ; the trold, by its own oTtivity, falls dose to the liand of the miner, and is thus saved with the rich pay- dirt, Avhieh is intended to l)e washed by the regular methods. ])Ut the formation of the original river-bed, and the deptli of the bed-rock covered by the layer of gold-bear- ing earth, is often such as to necessitate the dillicult and costly expedient of tunnclliiH/. The tunnel is sometimes made from the bottom of a shaft sunk i)eri)endicularly, which is called 'di'ifting,' but quite as frequently is struck into the bank from below its present siuface. It is made to follow the windings of the okl channel, and a drain is constructed to keep the works free from tlie interruption of water. In exploring the chambers of a tunnel 'pockets' or nests of gold are often met with of extraordinary rich- ness. These crevices, in which the gold was de])osited in former ages, of course vary in size. Some of them are as rn'i»:e as a conunon bowl, ar-d are filled with a contj-lo- merate of black sand, mica, disintegrated particles of talcose slate and pebbles. This concrete gives way imder a few blows of the pick, and the broken pieces, which are naturally heavy, have been compared to chunks of plum- cake. On breaking them with the hand the interior is observed to contain j)ellets of gold Qaartz-Hiiu'uKj, which ultimately becomes the perma- nent method of extracting gold, after the ji/ao'res or alluvial diu'izinii-s have i*;iven out, iuis scarcely yet been attem])ted in these colonies, in consequence of European capitalists (who are always expected to iji(iu</ urate large mechanical o])erations in auriferous countries) being sus- picious and tardy in reference to these investments. It i'annot be long, however, before this branch of mining is widely established among the hills of Vancouver Island and Jhitish (\»lumbia, as it is in California and Nevada. I (QUARTZ ('HL'SIIIX(i. 27 < ose to tho he regiiliir d, and tlio o-()l(l-l)e!ir- lillicult iiiul soinc'times uiidiculai-ly, ly is struck It is made a drain is interruption lel' pockets' dinary ricli- deposited in tliem are as li a congk)- particles of ; Avay under s, wliich are ks of plinu- interior is Itlie pernia- Ipltict'rt'.'i or ly yet been ft.' I. f European \i(rat(' larire beinii; sus- Itnients. It If mining is liver Island Nevada. Tlie most primitive expedient for erusliing quartz is tlie itfsfrif, or drnu'. 'J1iis consists of two kirge stones attaclied l)V a strap to a horizontal bar. A liorse or nuile is yoked to tlie bar, as wlien a corn or tlu'esliing-miil is (h'iven by animal power. The quartz is broken into small i)ieces, and placed in the circular trough, in which the animal «)()L's i-ound. These are reduced to powder by the friction lun.viniA (jrAiiTZ Aiii i., oka^s vam.i.y. of the rastra. Over the paved floor of the tnjugh a stream of water constantly Hows, by \vhich the crushed (piaitz is made to assume the api)earance of a milk-white |)astr. The tloor is sprinkled with (piicksilver at intervals. When the (juartz is sulliciently gromid, the water is turned oil!, the lloor taken up, and the amalgam colK'cted and re- torted. Quartz is >aid to be more thoroughly erii.shed and 278 PROCESS OF MINING. pulverised by one of these lazy, jogging iiiacliines, than by the 'stampers' of a regular steam crushing-mill ; and from rock which it would be profitless to work under tlie more advanced principle, gold in paying quantities can be ex- tracted. I was favoured with an opportunity of witnessing the operation of quartz-crushing by steam power, on a hmited scale, in California. The apparatus consists of a series of iron stampers, erected in a line, with an iron box placed under, and fitted to receive each. Into these boxes the quartz is put, after having been broken up into small pieces. The stampers are moved by cogs connected witli a revolving wheel, by which they are alternately lifted and let fall. The stamping box is generally supplied with Avatcr by a hose or pipe. Through a hole made on pur- pose, the quartz, converted into a thick milky liquid, is forced, carrying with it much of the fine gold. This pulpy substance is discharged upon a framework, across which riffles or elects are fixed, containing quicksilver, with which the gold amalgamates in its passage. Any fine particles escaping the quicksilver are caught below upon a hide or blanket stretched tightly across a frame. But, notwithstanding the most careful precautions, a waste of gold occurs, which can with difiicidty l)e avoided. It often happens that the ' tailings,' or refuse of the mill, on being put through a second crashimj, will pay as well as did the quartz when crushed hi its original state. Scientific men are agreed, I believe, that ' quartz is the mother of gold.' The precious metal is sometimes visible in glittering specks, distributed throughout the rock, but quartz may also be worked with advantage in which the gold particles are so small as not to be visible to the naked eye. A proportion of gold to the value of ,^20 to YIKLD OF qVAUTZ. 271) ines, than by il ; and from ler tlie more can be ex- tncssing the on a limited f a scries of I box placed se boxes the into small nected with lately lifted ipplied witli de on pur- ky liquid, is gold. This vork, across quicksilver, sage. Any Light below 5s a frame, 3autions, a lifficulty l)e I,' or refuse d crusliiiKj^ islied in its the ton of quartz pays well, where the machinery is elTective and convenient to the reef. Eock is crushed, however, in California that yields hundreds of dollars [)er ton.* ' >SL.e m iutenvstino. a,tido that appeared in Harper h Xvw Monthh, Mat/azmv tor Ajjril ImO on tlii.s sulyect. uartz is the imes visible 2 rock, but L which the ble to the of ^20 to 280 CllAlTEU XL AGUJfULTLUAL UIO.SOUKL'ES OF J5U1TJS11 CULLWIDIA. Climato — Fiiriuinfi' Capabililii;.s — AfiTuiiltiujil Districts — Mr. Davidson's Ivxperiencc of Farinin<>' North of the Pjivinon — Yiehl of otlier Farms — Fruit — Stock-raising' — lloiuuuerativt' Character of Dairy I'rocliico — Shi't'|» — Hogs — Terms on whicli Land may be Acquired. As diiiKite is till important coiisidenitioii in agricultural ])ursuits, it is wortliy of notice; tliat tlie uneven surface of British Coliniibia })resents every shade and variety (-)f teni})erature. It may be safely asserted, liowever, that f;i ruling' can be carried on in this colony at any altitude under 2,500 feet above the level of the sea. Certain belts of the country are found to be warm and dry, while others are moist and of more equal)le temperature. For a hun- dred and fifty miles inland from the mouth of the Fraser we have a district characterised by a humid climate, and in which the thermometer of Fahrenheit rarely falls below 10, or rises above 90 degrees, llain, sometimes continuing for days together, and frequently assuming the form of ' Scotch mist,' prevails in that section of the country during spring, summer, and autumn. In winter, snow falls from one to two feet, the depth lessening as we approach the sea. It remains on the ground for a week or two, and, after an absence of the same duration, light snow-storms succeed. Thus, with alternations of snow, rain, and tem- porary suspensions of both, the winter passes, usually breaking u[) in the early [lait of March, i'eriods of cloudy (LiMATK OF TI[K IXTKKIOU. 281 MlilA. !r. Davidson's >ther Fai'ius— ,s>i'icultui'al sin face of variety of rever, that iiy altitude rtaiii belts l)ile otliers For a luiu- tlie Fraser iiiiate, and falls below ioiitiuuiiig ie form of [tiy during falls from broach the two, and, low-storms and teni- [s, usually of cloudy , weather thiring sunnner temper the lieat of the .season, whicli is much more intense in the interior. 13ut even wlien the atmosphere is clear, heavy dews fall at night. The northern limit of the damp portion of the country crosses the Lilloet route in the vicinity of Andei'son's Lake and the Fraser, between the Upper Canon and tlie Forks. Beyond extends a region of equal breadtli but greater heat and aridity. Though situated farther north and on a loftier elevation, the cHmate in this neighbourhood is not ])erceptibly colder in winter, while tlie snow is less deep than in the moi'e southern part of the country just desci-jbed, adjacent to tlie Lower Fraser. In Similkameen, tlie vidley of the Thompson, and Ilorselly, the winter is rarely so severe as to be injurious to stock ; Avhile in Cariboo the snow, which })erpetually covers the earth, is accom[)anied with extreme cold. Mr. remberton writes : — ' It may be sulficient here to say that ... in ])arts of valleys of the Fraser, Lilloet, Columbia, and Thom[)son liivers, a climate quite as mild as that of Devonshire is indicated by birds of bright plumage, Inunming birds, cactuses growing in the open air, (S:c. ; while lands farther north reproduce not inifre- quently the chmates of Hudson's Bay and Labrador.' The views of Mr. A. C. Anderson on the same sid)ject are entitled to respect from his long residence in the country: — Snow begins to fall in the mountains early in October. In July there is still snow for a short distance on the summit of the Fort Hope trail, hut not to impede the passage of horses. From the middle of October, however, to the middle of June, this track is not to be depended upon for transport with pack animals. The summer climate above the Forks is dry, and the heat is great. During winter the; thermometer indicates occa- sionally from 20° to H0° of cold below zero of Fahreidieit ; liut such severe cold seldom lasts on the np[)er parts of Fraser Iviver tor more than three dav»; the thermometer will then continue 1 282 .UilllCL'LTLUAL IlKSOLRCKS ()!•' HRITISH (OIA'.MIJIA. to fluc'tuiite between zero iind the tVee/iii<,'-p(»iiit until possibly iiuother interviil of cold iirrive.s. l?ut the winters are extremely CiipriciouH throughout these regions, and no two resemble each (jther very closely. In <jencr<d, the siioiv docs not fidl deep eiiowjh (doiif/ the hanl's of the main .streams to pvednde winter travelliiif/ with pack animtds. . . . There are many spots between the 8imilkameen Valley and OKanagan that are specially favourable for winter ranches. In some the snow never lies, however deep it may be around. The c'liinato to tlie west of the Cascade range is mild, but somewhat humid. The summer is beautiful, with a small proportion of rainy days ; the autimm is clear and line ; the winter liable to frost and rain, l)y turns ; and the spring peculiarly wet. 'The winter of 1859,' says Mr. Brown, of Lilloet, 'M-as very mild. The frost came November 10, then went away; snow in December 18G0 ; January, February, Mtu'ch were mild and damp ; A]:)ril and May fine, but a good deal of rain fell ; June, July, August, and September were very line; October rainy; November and December line winter weather. In 18G1 the maxinunn temperature at New Westminster was 84°, and the minimum 20° ; January was wet and frosty; February very wet ; rain fell on 18 days out of 20 ; March and April also wet ; May fine, with a good deal of rain ; Jime, July, August, Se})tember very fine, with a little rain ; ( >ctober fine ; snow appeared on the mountains in November, and until shortly before Christ- mas the weather was good. A little before Christmas there was hard frost, increasing in intensity till January 9, 18G2, when the river froze over opposite New West- minster, remaining so till the early part of March. The mi:iimiun temperature was lGi° below zero. Such a wintei' had not been known in the country ibi' thirteen veai's. I I .U.MBIA. CLI.MATK. 4) CO loo [itil possibly i-e extremely semble each ot f(dl dee}) dude ^vinter many spots are specially V never lies. ngt' 1 mild, titiil, Avitli M is clear unci turns ; and illoct, ' was then went , February, y fine, but a I September i\ Deeembei' ►Vestminster as wet and lays out of ith a jjjood verv fine, ired on the fore Clirist- } Christmas ill January iNew West- arch. The p. Sucli a "or thirteen f 'I'he dillerence in the ])hysieal as[)e('ls of the countries on either side the Cascades extends, as jilreadv remarked, to the climate. As u samjde, tlie last lour winters at Lilloet may be described : — In IBoJJ winter began on Xoveniber 7, and continued till the middle of March. In 1860 winter conunenced on December 7, and lasted till the end of February. There were three or four days of severe cold, with wind from the N., and the thermometer fell to zero. There was a long spell of bright clear frosty weather, with an occasional thaw; little snow fell. In 1801 the severest winter known for 20 years began on November 27, and may be said to have lasted till the end of March, although the river did not break up till April 1.5. The thermometer attained a minimum of 2.">° below zero. Then' were 10 weeks of continued frost, when the thermometer fre- (|uently got below zero in the evenings and mornings. But the weather was always clear and sunny. The snow was at one time 12 inches deep, but at other places in this section of coiui- try there were last winter 2 feet of snow — a depth, however, very unusual. Notwithstanding this, most of the stock left to winter out, and find their own food as best they might, survived. The winter of 18()2-3 was extremely mild, with the exception of two or three days in November, and ten days of severe cold in February. January and February are usually cold months, ^Nlarch and April variable — the plains begin to be clothed with verdure. .May to ()ctol)er, and sometimes Novend)er, tine, clear, warm weather; in the last two months the evenings are frosty. De- cember is cold and wmtry. In summer, on the other hand, the mercury sometimes shows 100° in the shade. In this section of country little rain falls. i\[ore rain fell in 18t)2 than in 1861 ; more again in 1861 than in 1860. In the OKanagan district there is a great supply of rain : at William's Lake a suflficient ([uantity. At the latter place the winters are more severe than at liilloet, tlie thermometci- some- times ranging as low as 40" below zeio: vet the weather is clear. 1 284 ACJRICULTURAri KKSOURCES OF 15HITISII COl.UMHIA. iiii<l witliout wItkI ; and, in tlio experience (»f those accustonutl to cold cliniiittis, any cold is bearable, and even enj(»yable, so lon<,' as the sun comes <nit diirinjj^ the day and tlm winds are still. At Ah'xandria and (^uesnelle nioiitli snow apjx'ars in the end of November, and lies to a depth of 18 inches for three or four months; January is the coldest, August the hottest, June the rainiest; August, Se})tember, and October the driest months in the year. The climate of Cariboo is severe ; there the winters are long, lasting from November till the end of April ; yet the weatlier is usually clear and calm. Snow falls principally in January or Februar}^, sometimes to a depth of from 7 to 10 feet, so that snow-shoes are used for winter travelling. Jiut with the exception of Cariboo, the climate of British Colujnbia is universally regarded as one of the finest in the world. Nor can the fact of its extreme healthiness be too much insisted on. Cases of sickness are rare, and many who suffered at home from feeble health have here inhaled new life from the bracing mountain breeze. In reference to the soils of the colony, they are of three kinds. The first and the most rare of these consists of decayed vegetable matter and alhivial deposits of a black colour, but rich and loamy. Valleys and banks of rivers contain deposits of this character. The next quality is formed by the disintegration and decomposition of rocks, and is light and sandy, with a considerable proportion of lime, which accounts for its remarkable fertility. It varies in depth from one to three feet, and rests on a subsoil of gravel or clay. It must be acknowledged that the amount of superior farmino; land in British Columbia is not oreat when com- pared with the gross area of the colony. But it should be remembered that the trunk roads to Cariboo conduct^ for the iitost part,thro(i(jh the most iiuprepossessiiii/ sections <>/ the countri/. It is conlidently expected, however, that >LL'MIMA. FAI{MI\(; IHSTRKTS. '>^'» —,~i) ' iu'customcd I'lijoyable, so iuds are still. IS ill the end three or four ;st, June the ist months in ers are lonii;', he weather is 1 January or feet, so that te of British finest in the be too much who suffered life from the are of tlirce consists of of It bhick vs of rivers ijratioii {iiul uly, with u lints for its 3ne to three of superior when ooni- Lit it shoiihl ;^)(> com/((ct, ■<())(/ seclioN,^ wever, that i f. the nrrriciilturnl resources will inijmne upon a more inti- mate ucquaintMiiee with the regions between the Frasor and the Uocky Mountains on the one hand, and the eoast on the other. But on the sup[)osition of hmd lit for cultivation being of even more limited extent than we know it is, this con- stitutes no argument against encouraging the immigration of settlers. My views on this point arc expressed at length in the chapter on farming in Vanc(niver Island, and reference to tlie o])inions there stated will enable me to dispense with the re[)etition of them in this place. It is no libel on the farm- ing capabilities of the country to say that its metalliferous capabilities are greater. I do not liesitate to assert that British Columbia contains suflicient arable soil to sustain a population of many millions ; besides, the hirge and profitable marlcets furnished to agricultural producers by mining and trading settkments ai'c unequalled in any jiart of the workL A glance at the [)rincipal (Kjricultural districts may not be inappropriate to the present sketch. At the mouth of the Eraser there is a large tract in the delta of the river, which waves in summer with rich and luxuriant hay — a source of considerable revenue to those settlers who ex- port it to Victoria. This plain is covered at high w^ater, but would yield immense compensation to effort bestowed in rechiiining it. Farms in the neighbourhood of New Westminster have been found to bear excellent crops, esi)ecially vegetables and fruit. Five miles above West- minster, on the banks of Pitt Eiver, are meadows clear and of great extent ; the only hindrance to their success- liil cultivation beino; that they are liable to overflow. The hanks of Pitt Kiver (writes Governor Douglas in 1860*) * r.liic I'xM.li, Part IV. p. K. A •JS() .\(ii{Mri;rn{vi, uksoiucks ok ijimtisii coLi'MmA. f iuc ('xct'cdiiinjiy licjiiitit'iil ; cxtciiHivc nicjulitws sweep ^ivict't'iilly from tlie very ed^-e of the river toward th(! distiiiit liiu; of forest and inouiitaiii. Tlie rich alluvial soil produces a tliiek j^rowtli of urass, interpersod with the jMiehaelnias daisy, the wild rose, and scattered jjfroups of willows. This fine district contains an iirea of 20, (MM) acres of ^dod arable land, requirinjj; no clearing' from timber, and ready for the immediate; operations of the plou^di. Alany parts f)f it are, however, exposed to overflow through the periodical inundations of the Fraser. ... It may be tiuned to ;^<)od account in f,'rowinijf hay and every kind of root crop, and may also be used for pasturing cattle and for the [))uposes of dairy. A ^vell-kllo^vll citizen of Now Westminster, convinced tliat large tracts of {ir{d)lc land existed beyond tlie forests on tlie banks of the Fraser, made an ex[)loratory tour tbrou!j;1i the dense woods between that city and Langley ; and after havini*' travelled about twelve miles, a ma««;nifi- cent prairie burst upon his view, several miles in extent. iMany such spots, attractive for farming settlement, are cei'tain to be discovered when the Government apphes itself systematically to the work of exploration. At Langley the soil is superior, and wheat has been i^rown there for a succession of years without the aid of manure. Sumass and Chilukweyuk contain land suitable chiefly for pastoral purposes. Like the Pitt meadows, however, it is subject to overflow for a few days from the summer f'resliets. The Lilloet meadows at Port Pemberton contain ' a linc> tract of prairie land seven or eight miles long and from half a mile to a mile wide,' The soil is signally productive and adapted for cultivation. Eight miles above Lilloet, at the Fountain, a large quantity of land is under crop. Higher u]), in Pavilion Valley, excellent crops of cereals and vegetables are produced. The crop of potatoes i HAMIJIA. I'AK.MIM; IHSTIiKTS. •JS7 »'P ^ivicef'iilly lin»! of forest til irk ;j;rowtli he wild rose, :t contaiiiH an if no cU'ariii;^ iitions of the I to ovorflow . . . It may every kind of le and for tlu; •, coiivincod d tlie forei'ts )iutory tour lid Langk'y ; ^ u inagi lili- es ill extent. tleniL'iit, nro lent applies Ml. it lias been the aid of table cliieily /^s, liowever, lie summer litaiii ' a lini' ig and from productive )ve Lilloet, [mder crop, of cereals Df potatoes rt'jiped by tin.' pi'opiictor ol' a IJirni at r.-ivillon in iSliO giivc .')'J') bushels Ui the acri'. One of the turni])s grown in iiis garden weighed 2(1 lbs. ( )ats and biulcy lhi'ive(l under this gentlenian's care. Tiie ears wi'ie of great size, and the straw about ft)in' feet long. His cattle weie jillowed during winter to run at large without shelter, obtaining ])i'ovisiou as they best could. After ascending lui elevation of 1,000 feet above Dig- bar Creek, the traveller I'caclies a succession of table-lands inviting to the plough, and ranges of j)rairie capable of sustaininu' iiniumerable herds {ind flo(;ks. At Bridge Creek there are tracts of (uable soil exceiMl- ing in extent any to be met with between Liingley and this place. From Bridge Creek to William's Lake there is much good land, though it is said that crops in that neighbourhood are liable to be injured by frosts. AtTjake La Ilache and Williams' Lake, bailey, wheat, cKrc, can be grown to advantage. It is rare to find in British Colum- bia those vast prairies that are so common in the Western States of America, without a hill or tree to iiitercej)t the view, far as the eye can reach. We rather have what is understood on the Pacific coast as ' roUing country ; ' that is a surftice broken up into valleys and mountains — ridges of unequal height. The land around Beaver Lake is extensive and produc- tive, and the district adjacent to Williams' Lake yields lich crops of grain and vegetables. At Alexandria, whatever portions are under cultivation, give profitable returns ; and beyond that town [)rairies exist containing excellent meadow grass and good soil. A similar descri})tioii would ap])ly to the mouth of Quesnelle, and between that place and Cottonwood, whence begins the rugged and barren district of Cariboo. In return southward, Governor Douglas, speaking of the 'i-'^S AfilMn'LTrnAL RESOrnCKH OV IIUITISII (OLUMIJIA. vicinity of the Tliompson, IJoiiiipiirti', mikI Clin))t'nu Kivcrs, sayn :— The (listiu't coinprclioiulcd witliin tlicHc limits is cxcccdin^'Iy bc.'iutiful iiud ]>i('tmt'S<ni(', Itciiij; cninpitst'd of a siit'ccssioii of hills and valleys, lakes and rivers, <'xhil)itin<; to the traveller the j;rateful spectacle of miles of ^reen hills, erowninii,' slopes, and level meadows, almost without a hush or tree to obstruct the view, an<l, even to the very hill tops, producing' an abundant growth of <(rass. It is of <,'reat value as a «,'razin;^' district — a circumstance which appears to be tliorouj^ddy understood and appreciated by the country packers, who are in the habit of h'avinyf their inuhis and horses here when the re'ndar work of packinjjf jji'oods to the mines is suspended for the winter It has certaiidy never been my f^ood fortune to visit a country more ])leasin;^ to the eye, or possessing' a more healthy and a<,'reeaV)h! climate, or a greater extent of fine pasture land; and there is no doubt that with a smaller amount of labour and out- lay than in almost any other colony, the energetic settler may soon siu'round himself with all tlie elements of .iffluence and comfort j\Ir. AI'Lean has recently settled in a beautiful spot near the (Ubouche of the Hat River, and is rajddly bring- ing liis land into cultivation. . . . He entertains no doubt wliat- ever of the capabilities of the soil, which he thinks will, un(h;r proper management, produce any kind of grain or root crops. The only evil he apprehends is the want of rain, and the conse- (pient droughts of summer, which has induced him to bring a supply of water from a neig1d)ouring stream, })y whicli he can at pleasure irrigate the whole of his fields. Jiiit the most encoiiragiiig field for thrining o])erations yet discovered in the country includes the Siniilkanieeii and OKanagaii districts. On the road tliither from Hope lies the Sumallow Valley, containing land of superior quality. Fifteen miles from Princeton the country be- comes open. There the soil is light, and covered with bunch grass. Feed for cattle abounds in the neig])bour- hood, and from indicjitions found of valuable metals, there DLUMHIA. pciUl liiviM's, is (>xc('('(liii<,'ly HUCC'CSsioll of tilt' travcllrr wiling slopes, ee to obstruct r uii al)iiii(huit ij^ district — a idcrstood j>nd the lialiit of i,ndar work of winter isit a country } liealtby and uro land; and ,ljour and otit- ic settler may affluence and in a beatitiful rapidly brin<;- ) doubt wliat- [ks will, luider r root crops, lud the conse- m to bring a Ivhich he can \f operations piinilkaiiieeii from Ho]ie lof superior jcouiitry be- kered witli iiei«2f1iboiir- lietals, there OKA.VAOAN AND Sl.MILKAMKKN. 2S'J 14 is every probability (T its beeoininir :iii important miiiiiiLr loeality. In l\\v vmIIcv of the Similkameen (he raiiLTc of country is gi-assy, inleispersed witli patches of rich hitnh The area around OKanagan Lala; is admiiabiy suitrd Ibr farming, with alternate valley and hill. Feed for cattle can be had on the we.-jt side of the lake, on the Hudson's ]>ay Com[)any's trail. On tin* eastern side there are 10, (^'^0 ai'res of cK-ai land, with soil adapte(l for rai>in!4' stock, or cultivating trn. I'assing to 'IV-tc (ri'lpinellc, a reserve claimed by the Nicola Indians, and thence to tlic (li'and IVaiiie, much suj)eri(n' soil and luxuriant [)astiu'e are to be met with. That prairie is about sixteen miles long, and I'rom one and a half to two and a (piartcr miles in breadth, and would form a cajjacious settlement. The route from that luxuriant tract to Thompson Kivei- is varied by lakes, hills, and clumps of trees, together with numerous lai'ue intervals of farming' land. Tla-re can be no dnul)t that as gold discoveries advance in that direction, excellent markets will be cn-ated ibr agricuUural producers. Of the soil art)und OKanagau and ^^imilkaiueen, the report of a party of Koyal Engineers, who visited these places iu 1850, thus speaks : — The grass is generally of a good ([urility, the prickly pear and ground-cactus — the sore enemy to the nioccasined ti'avellcr — being the surest indication of an approach to an inferior (|ua!ity. Timber is for tlie most part scarce, but coppices appear at the sharp bends of the river, toleralily well wooded, and abounding in an underbrush of willow and wild cherry, while near the base of the mountains, timber exists in (piantities easily procurable, and more than sufficient for the retpurements of the settlers who may popidate the district. The soil is somewhat sandy and light, but free from stones, and generally excellent for grazing and farming; and, though the drought in summer is great, and irrigation necessary, many large portions are already well watered by streams from the mountains, whose fall is so rapid as greatly U 200 AGRICULTURAL RKSOURClilS OF BRITISH COLUMBLV. to facilitate such furtluu- irrigation as niiglit be required. In corroboration of my expressed opinion relative to tlie yielding properties of the soil, I may mention that in spots through which, perchance, some small rividet or spring wound its way to the river, wild vegetation was most luxuriant ; and grass, some blades of which I measured, out of curiosity, as much as nine feet high, well rounded and firm, and a cjuarter of an inch in diameter at its lower end.* It will have been observed from this hasty account of soil and sections ada})ted for agricultural settlement, that, in some parts, spring Avheat would require irrigation ; but autumn wheat, receiving abundant moisture from the rains of winter and spring, would come safely and rapidly to maturity .f In regard to the yield and prices of crops, I have mucli pleasure in being able to lay befoi'i the reader an ex- tract from the journal of my dear friend, Dr. Laclilin Taylor, of Canada, svho possessed, in 18G3, opportunities of travelling extensively in British Columbia. His quick and observant eye did not. allow any liict of statistictd * Bhie r,ook, Part III. p. 85. t The Kootanie territory would soom, from the description of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Oregon, to consist of fonjst and prairie, divided in pro- portions romarlcahly favourahle for cultivation. The source of the Columbia J liver, which is in British territory, ho regards as a point of great prospective importance. Birch, pine, cedar, and cypress are the prevailing woods of the region. The climate is spoken of as delightful. Extremes of heat and cold are infrequent, and the snow usually disappears as it fiills. According to the opinion of the bishop, who has an intinuite acquaintance Avitli that dis- trict, it only requires the transforming hand of civilisation to clumge it into a terrestrial paradise. Veins of lead and .silver, as well aa gold, are linown to permeate the mountains of Kootanie, and imagination cannot set bounds to its future prosperity. It is conveniently situated, moreover, for com- munication with Salt Lake city, wlience it can be reached in waggons ; it is readily accessible not only from tlie mm-e north-westerly pai'ts of British Columbia, but also from the mining localities of Idaho, Boise, and Salmon Biver. LUMBIA. DAVIDSONS FAR^^. 201 squired. In the yieldinj? )ots through id its way to I grass, some uich as nine )f an inch in '■ account of emeiit, tliat, gat ion ; but )ni the rains 1 rapidly to have much ider an ex- Dr. Lachhn )poi'tunities His quick f statistical 1 of the Romnn divided in pvo- if the Cdlinubia eat prospective n<X woods of the If heat and coLl According to vvitli that dis- change it into Ad, are known \u)t set bounds iver, for coni- Iwaggons ; it is arts of ])riti.sh e, and Sahnon interest to escape notice. In tlie letter accompanyiii^L;' the following extract, he says : — Enclosed you liave the extract from my Cariboo journal, svliirli gives Mr. Davidson's opinion of the farming lands of tlie IJ^iJjx'r Fraser, as well as the statistics of his own magnilicent farm. The whole statement was taken from D.'s own lips, and read ovor to him after it was written ; so that, as far as his judgment eoiiM be depended on, it is correct in every particular. Extract. Such is the prevalence of summer frosts in tlie entire country north, or al)Ove the Pavilbni ^fountain, including Mr. Davidson's own ranch, that a farm or piece of land nuist liave a southern aspect, and be protected from the northern blasts, to cultivat(i any of the cereals to advantage. .Six: miles above Mr. Davidson's is the Road Company's form, considerably biglicr than the J/ikc; Valley ranch (which is the name of ^Ir. D.'s), but, to all appear- ance, as well situated. As it has not, however, the same southern declination, Mr. D. is of opinion that grain coidd n(jt be grown there with any prospect of suecoss. He is also of opinion that, although there are tracts of land like his own, with a chiy bottom under a rich sandy loam, the generality of the soil near the I'iver is gravelly, which, when the vegetable deposit or top S(jil is gone will be very poor and sterile. A selection of countrv facing Lake La IFache, on the noit'i side, might, like Anderson's farm, from its soutlun-n as[)eet, ])e cultivated to advantage ; but such places — as about Cochrane's Jjridge Creek and the junction — are ext remely doubtful. I s iw, however, myself, when on my way down from Cariboo, some of the largest potattjes I have ever seen in any country, which Mr. Watson, of the Junction Hotel, grew the present season. You will now be gratified to get some statistics from Mr. D.'s own ranch, which is prol)ably the finest farm, taking extent and cultivation together, in all British Columbia. In the first place, a few items about Mr. D.'s first ranch, called *tho ^lission Ranch,' and consisting of 500 acres. Mr. D. cultivated altogether about seventy acres. From 40lbs. of spring u 2 292 AGKICULTURAL RESOURCES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. wheat lie threi^lieJ 20 bushels; and the following season, 15 bushels sown, produced over 400 bushels. Barley, potatoes, cabbages, and onions were all produced in abundance. Mr. D. came to his present ranch in June, 1862 (about fifteen months before he cominiinieated this information to Dr. Taylor). It consists altogether of about 1,860 acres — 160 on the road and 1,700 tliree miles from the house in which he lives. He has this year (1863) 175 acres imder cultivation, the principal crops being barley and oats, with from twelve to fifteen acres of potatoes, several acres of corn, beans, parsnips, and carrots; also two acres of cabV)ages ; one of turnips, and one of onions. The barley and oats, on the prime land, will yield about 40 bushels to the acre, and, on the higher land, from 20 to .SO ; oats, on the best laud, from 60 to 80 bushels per acre. 400 tons of hay might be cut, and, on eight acres seeded with timothy, the ap- pearance is as favourable as anything he has seen in any part of the world. ]\Ir. D. is of opinion that it is a good country for raising stock ; and the profits derived therefrom would be very great. He has good stock himself, and some of them could not be excelled on the Pacific coast. ]\Ir. D. finished seeding on the 1 1th June, and expects a return of from 200,000 to 3()0,000lbs. ; and he is of opinion that the yield would be much larger had he been al)le to sow a month earlier. Barley is worth at Mr. D's. house $i) per bushel, and cabbage, of which he expects to have 1,000 head averaging 8lbs. per head, 25 cents per lb. He employs at present sixteen servant men — the number being reduced in winter to four or five. He has eight yoke of working oxen, and from six to eight horses. He has a good stock of farming implements, including a reaper and mower, and a threshing mochine which can thresh 1,000 busliels a day. On other fiinns potatoes are known to yield from 7 to 15 tons to tlie acre. The average weight of many is lib., not a few reach "21 lbs., and some even 31bs. each. On one farm, turnips — Swedish and white — produced 25 tons to the acre, and one instance is on record of some haviiiLT o'l'owii to the enormous bulk of 20]bs, Onions yielded ■UMBIA. YlliLD — i'JlICi:S — STOCK. 2!); season, 1 .5 y, potatoes, le. ibout fifteen Dr. Taylor). 3n the road ! lives. He lie principal een acres of carrots ; also nions. The t 40 busliels oats, on the tons of hay ithy, the ap- ri any part of country for 3uld be very nn could not f^cts a return it the vield onth earlier. id cabbage, 8lbs. per een servant ov five. He eiolit horses. ing a reaper hresh 1,000 from 7 to any is lib., cticli. Oil Gcd 25 tons inie liavinuj >ns yielded fmm 4 to Gibs, to the acre. Many weighed 1 .^bs. ; some 21bs. ; and one, grown at the Tunntain, is referred to by Mr. Brown as liaving weighed 21bs. loz. Cabbaixes are often to be seen from 12 to 141bs. in weight ; anil in a certain garden a cabbage was grown wei<'hinu- 2r)ll)s. ! It was sold to an Indian for 3s. Mr. Brown saw a beet- root in '02, lllbs. in weight, 2 feet in length, and 20 inclies in (Avth, and at another farm, a carrot weiuhing 41bs., with I7y inches in girth. As to frnits, melons grow in the open air withont manure, of prodigious bidk and excellent llayour. Tlie presence of the wild cherry and wild pear fidly testifies that the soil is well adapted for the gro»\'th of ])ears and cherries, and it is belieyed that the grape woidd Ilourish on the sloping banks of the Eraser. The prices of yegetables, &c. in Xew Westminster are liigher than in Victoria ; at Lilloet they are nearly twice as hiu'h : and at Cariboo four times as hhA\ as at New "Westminster. The country is pre-eminent for stock-raising. ' Bunch grass,' which is highly nutritious for cattle, is also abun- dant. On this fodder the Cayoosh nngs or natiye horses so thrive that they surpass, in ])ower of endurance, many an English, hack fed on gr..m. One of those hardy animals can accomplish without injury a joiu'iiey of 40 miles in a day. Mules that, in the upper country, have to carry 300 or 4001bs., over long daily stages, have bunch gi'ass for their only provender on the journey. A large cattle-dealer, accu-tomed to bring herds from Orenfon, has publicly declared, as the result of two years' ex[)ei-ience in the country, that his stock had thriven better liei'e than they had done in Oregon and California. ' Two years ago a man bought a cow, for which he paid /S'llO ; that summer he made 1^350 by the sale of her milk and 294 AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. butter; now slie lias three calves, each of them worth $H){):—A>ev. R. C. Limdin JJrown. Ill ilkistratioii of the remunerative cliaracter of dairy produce, I am assured by a gentleman who has a personal knowledge of the circumstance, tha.> a farmer at the Blue Tent drove into Cariboo durinuf tlie miniiiu' season in 1803, thirty dairy cows, and netted 15/. i)er day for four months. In eighteen months from his arrival in the colony, he rea- lised^4,()0()/. In summer, cattle require little attention and no feed- ing. In Avinter, too, they have generally been left to forage for themselves. Yearling calves and foals have suc- ceeded in Aveathering the winter storm. But an unusually severe season does occur at intervals, and it would be imprudent to make no provision against it. A log- shed and six weeks' fodder would save all risk and anxiety. It is only a fe-sv years since sheep were imported into the country, but the experiment has been attended Avith complete success. The colony is best adapted for South- downs, which may be purchased in Victoria, or still more cheaply in Oregon. In the middle section of the country they thrive wonderfully. By Ji simple calculation it might be shown that 100 ewes and 2 rams would, in the course of five years — supposing the }3i"oduce to he one half lambs, and the wethers to be sold — increase to 1,000. This calculation supposes the ewes to lamb twice a year, and to have twins one time in three, which is under the average. Sheep cost in Victoria 21. and rams 201 (South- downs) : the animals would cost little for keep in summer or winter, and the wethers being sold for mutton, the jaroceeds wouhl cover the wages of a shepherd. As mutton costs Is. to Is. 3d. per lb. (and tlie sheep average 50 lbs.) it is easy to see that, even allowing a wide margin for casualties, a small fortune could thus be realised in the course of a few years. The fleeces LUMBIA. :licm wortli er of dairy s a personal at tlic'Bluu ;on ill 1SG3, our inoiitlis. any, he rea- Liid no feed- lecn left to lis have suc- n unusually lI it would it. A log- Jl risk and iported into ended with for South- still more le country Lit 100 ewes ipposing the be sold — wes to lamb licli is under 20/ (South - summer or he proceeds costs Is. to easy to see mall fortune The fleeces I TERMS OF SETTLEMENT. Of I 205 I iiii<,dit either be turned to account in the country itself or ex- ported ; the price at San Francisco is 40 cents per lb. The number of sheep imported in 18G2 was (),94() ; of cattle, 5,649 ; of horses and mules, 0,427. Hogs are an immensely profitable investineiit in tlie colony, bacon being a staple commodity at the mines. Every other kind of farming produce already speciiled in remarks on farming in the insulai" colony, fetclies a much higher price in British Columbia than in Victoria. The terms on which land may be acquired in British Columbia are given at length in the Appendix. The pi-o- clamation of the governor entitles British subjects, and aliens who take the oath of allegiance to Her Majesty, to pre-empt unsurveycd lands not reserved by tlie Govern- ment for town sites, or available for mining purposes, or occupied as Indian settlements. IGO acres are allowed to be taken up by each bona-fide settler, on condition of the claim being recorded with the nearest resident maijis- trate. The recording fee is 8.v. WJien the Government survey shall have extended to the land thus selected, pay- ment is to be made at the rate of not less than 4.s'. 2(1. per acre. Wiien improvements to the value of 10.^'. ])er acre shall have been made, and the magistrate satisfied of tlie permanent occupation of the settler, he shall be en- titled to a certificate of improvement. By this document the holder shall be empowered to sell, mortgage, or lease the land, subject to the unpaid histalments of ])ur- chase money. Priority of pre-emjition is secured to the person in occupation who shall first record his claim. On full payment of the purchase money, the purchaser obtains a conveyance, which, however, reserves to the Crown precious metals and minerals, with the right to enter and work them by its aS'siijnees and licensees ; but 296 AGRICULTURAL RliSOURCES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. if tliis right is exereisctl, reasonable compensation is to be made for tlic waste and damage done, to be settled, in ease of dispute, by a jury of six. In addition to the 100 acres thus pre-empted, the person in possession may hold and pmxhase any unsur- veyed and unoccupied land on paying to the nearest magistrate 2.9. Id. as part of the purchase money, which Avill be payable when the land is surveyed. Any allotment thus sought to be acquired either by pre-emption or by purchase, must be of a rectangular form, the shortest side being at least two-thirds of the length of the longest side. If any person, holding under a pre-emptive claim, shall cease to occupy the land, tlie claim may be cancelled. Occupants may bring ejectment or trespass against any intruder, except a free miner searching for the precious metals or conveying water to his mine. By an Act, dated Jan. 1, 18G3, military and naval officers of a certain rank are entitled, without pjiy, to free grants of unoccupied and imsurveycd country land in the following proportions : — Field officer of 25 years' service, in the whole 20 „ 15, or less, years' service Captains of 20 years' service and upwards . 15 „ or less and upwards . Subalterns of 20 7 » Acros 000 500 400 400 300 300 200 A'MBIA. 2J)7 on is to be led, in case npted, tlie any iinsur- lie nearest ney, wliicli I citlier by 'ectangnlar rds of the ive claim, 3 cancelled, igainst any le precious and naval »iit pay, to untry land Acres 000 500 400 400 300 300 200 \ CILVrTEB XII. ANIMAL AND VEGETABF.E PRODUCTIONS OF VANCOUVLK ISLAND AND BllITJSII COLUMBIA. Bears — Iiacoons — Marten — Mink — Skunlc — Otters — Foxes —The Puma — Its IJ.ivages — Adventure with a Puma — ^Volve.s — IJats— Stofrs — Deer — M()untaiu-8heep— BiKbs of Pkky, iS:c. — Swans, &c. — Pkptilks — Fi,(jka — Scientific Names of Animals — List of Sliells — Additional List of I'lants. Bears are not inicommon in these regions. I have seen specimens of the black bear both in the island and on the mainland. Except when woinided or suckling its young, and encountered near its hiding-place, this crea- ture is comparatively harmless to man. It is easily ' knocked over ' by the sportsman, and its skin, which letches a high price, is chiefly used as a rug. The grizzly is not known in Vancouver Island. Its main haunt is the Eocky Mountains, though it has been shot considerably west of that range. The racoon is distributed in these colonies as through- out many other parts of Xortli America. Martens are numerous and of varied colour. A good fur of this description cannot be bought first-hand under 6t*?. or Ss. The mink and skunk are also denizens of the forests in these colonies. I have known the latter filthy animal find its way into a settler's cabin, leaving the pro- prietor in the unfortunate position of either allowing the beast its own term of possession, in which case it 208 OTTERS — FOXES. miglit depart witliout leaving any un[)leasant fiouroiir of its visit behind, or force it out, and thus evoke froni tlie i?kunk tliat pecuharly objectionable and pungent odour U'iiich cannot readily be neutralised l)y fumigation, and by Avhich it keei)s all invaders at a distance. Otters arc found on land and in the sea. The species pertaining to the latter habitat are held in much greater estimation than those indigenous to terra fir ma. The skin of an average sized sea-otter, undressed, is valued by the Indian hunters at from 12/. to 14/., and, when prei)ared for the Chinese market, will often fetch there 20/. Foxes, ' silver-grey,' ' red,' and ' black,' exist ; but the latter quality is confined to British Columbia, Ocular testimony enables me to pronounce the black f(.)X the most liandsome animal of its kind to be found. The first of these varieties costs the purchaser 2/. or 3/. when bought direct from an Indian trapper, and would realise in Eng- land probably 20/. or 30/. The puma roams in certain parts of the island, as on the mainland, and often attains a larire and even formidable stature. It is known also under the names of panther, Cali- fornian lion, and catamount. I hapi)en to possess the skin of one shot last jxar in the island, measuring nine feet from the snout to the tip of the tail. But more recently I have learned of one being despatched in the neighbourhood of the Sooke mines, measuring ten feet from the snout to the ■root of the tail. It has been known, too, in Salt Spring Island, to the co>t of the settlers. A former there, some time ago, hearing a huge pig near his dwelling giving forth inimistakable sijzns of havniij come to grief, "vvent to the door and saw this stealthy and powerful foe of the farmer hurrying off Avith the choice morsel suspended by the nape of the neck. He arrived just in time to rescue the struggling victim. The ravages of the panther among AT)vi:xTURi:s WITH plmas. 2 '.19 lit f^ourenir of t'oke from tluj ungont odour iiiigutioii, and Tlie sjKH'ies miicli greater la. The skin ralucd by tlie lien pre})ared -e 20/. :'xist ; but tlic iibia. Ocular : fox the most Tlie first of Avlien bought ealise in Eiig- island, as on on formidable panther, Cali- ssess the skin due feet from cently I Inive ibourhood of } snout to the Salt Spring r there, some ellinfj mvinu" ) grief, went ul foe of the uspended by me to rescue iither among I shee]) and poultry are of the most destructive chanicter. Its leg and |)aw evince a much greater degree of strength than distinguishes any oi" the wild I'eline sj)ecies tluit ])i'()wl in the jungles of AlVica or India. A single blow from it must instantly disable any other animal inhabiting the same latitude. I am acquainted with a siiecp-farmer at Sooke whose sons, when engaged in watching their flocks, encountered and killed some half-dozen of these animals within a couple of years. When wounded they are intensely ferocious, and will attack alike men and dogs. They ' die hard,' unless struck with a rille-ball in the centre of the breast. A member of Mr. Weir's family — the gentleman just referred to — informed me, when on a visit to their "arm, that he once wounded a panther several times with his riile, but that it still retained sufficient strength to chase and worrv a large dog, lonur after he thought it must have bled to death. In the house of my iViend several of these creatures, stuffi^d, presented rather a startling arrjiy to ji guest on entering the room, but must prove mudi less agreeable objects when met in the lonely Ibrest. Another gentleman who went out on a shooting excur- sion, salhed from the trail into the thicket, a few miles from Victoria, in search of iiaine. lie had the misfortune to be soon confronted by an enraged ])antlier, Avhich, doubtless, felt her lair to be uncei-emoniously intruded upon, and her whelps endangered. The animal sprang upon his back and jndled him down. lie partially suc- ceeded in keeping her at bay by brandishing his fowliiig- ])iece, while he lay extended on the ground. Still the ])uina persisted in snapping r.t him till she tore his clotlies into shreds. His awkward position incapacitated him from firing. At lenuth die animal retreated. Tliese instances of danger from the attack of the panther are, son "WOLVKS — UKAV i;j;S — 8(^1'! KRKLS. linwovor, cxcoptiuii.'il, it iisiiiiUy l)C'in;^f in dread of tlio j)R's(ncc of a liuinaii In-ing. Wolves, of two species, ivd and black, occasionally ))r()wl in the vicinity of slieep-cotes, especially in winter, ])Ut are not muncrous, and where sheep are carefully lierded, they may be successfully resisted. Traces of the dwellings of the beaver are oljservable adjacent to lakes and streams in both colonies. In one twelvemonth, 7(S() beaver-skius, a few years ago, were collected by a single establishment of the Hudson's ]5ay Company in Vancouver Island. Like many other fur- l)earing animals, this one is on the increase, since the influx of whites to tliese Pacific shores, in consequence of the Hudson's Bay Company divesting itself to a consider- able extent of its fur-trading character, and trappers devoting their attention to the more exciting pursuits connected with (jjold-mininij;. It is impossible to go many miles into the agricultural districts without seeing squirrels, which feed upon the cones of pine-trees. They are different genei'ally from the species found in England. The hotel-keepers of Victoria employ men to shoot this as well as other sorts of game for the table. Eats are enemies to settlers in these colonies, as in all other new coimtiies ; and sometimes the inamiot is domesticated, luidcr the impression that rats avoid proximity to the latter animal. Neither hare" nor rabbit is known to exist in Vancouver Island, though varieties of both inhabit British Columbia, diflering, however, in appearance and habits from those belonging to the parent country. The stag and elk (Canadian) abound, and .some have been shot equal to a horse in stature, and weighing GOO lbs. Their antlers are very haudsonie. D K K II — MOU NT A 1 \ S 1 1 1 : 1 : 1 • ;oL dread of tlio , occasion.'dly lly ill ^vinl^'^, are caruf'iilly re obsei'vablo lies. In one rs ago, were [ludson's ]>ay ly other fur- ise, since tlie jnsequencc of to a CO n side r- and trappers iting pursuits e aiiiricultural ed upon tlie inerally from l-kee])ers of IS other sorts e nies, as in all marmot is rats avoid 11 Vancouver sli Columbia, from those some have 'ci^hino; 600 i J)eer are found in both colonies in hirge numbers. In particular districts, and at certain parts of the year, the farmer need not pass many days without having an op- ])ortunity of ])rocuring venison, if he be a fair siiot. I have known tiiis creature to be so tame as to a{)proach a itu'in-house and stand within a gun-slK)t of the dooi'. But I cannot say that I ever found tleer-llesh thoroughly l)alatable except w'hen stewed. It is, however, a favourite dish with most persons in the country. The ordinary weight of deer is from GO to 80 lbs., and they are fattest towards autumn. The mountain-sheep prevails in British Columbia. This is a large animal, weighing, when full-grown, several hundred pounds. It is covered with long hair, resembling coarse avooI, and su[)[)lied with enormous crooked hoi'iis, upon which it is said to strike when throwing itself from precipices in seeking to escape i)ursuit. The llesh is esteemed equal lo that of the domesticated sheep, but it is rarely the hunter Ixv/s or even gets a sight of them. Tliey are exceedingly shy and solitary in their habits, always keeping on the to})s of the most wild and I'ugged mountains. Even when the snow falls deep they do not come down, as do other animals, in quest of the milder climate and more abundant feed of the valleys. Birch of pre 1/ may be glanced at, of which the great fish eagle is entitled to primary notice. Couples of these white-headed birds may frequently be seen gliding ma- jestically through the air, or descending in a graceful swoop to their iiest among the branches of some lofty pine. The fish hawk, the harrier, and the sharp-shinned hawk are cimimonly met with. The great snow owl I have sometimes observed upon the housetops in Victoria ill a bri^'ht morniiiijr. The piiiinv owl is also found. ao2 lir.M.MIXd 1)1 UDS — I'HJF.OVS. The ii()t(! of tin; cuckoo is to bu liciird, and wooil- pc'ckcrs MIC iiumcroii!^. lliiminiii;^'-bircls of several kinds exist, iind arc visible ciii'ly in si)iiiig, llittiiij,' from tree to tree in search of opeuinj^ buds. A night-hawk conies forth after suti-down on calm sununer evening's, havin*? a croakinj^f sound, and is invarial)ly accom[)anied with a smaller bird distinijjuisiied by a feeble monotonous chirp. Tiie belted kin^disher and the flycatchers have their representatives. Among the singing birds, which are few, are the violet green swallow, wrens, creepers, nuthatches, titmice, shore larks, finches, the red crossbill, snow bunting, sj)arrows, and the red-winged blackbird. But the cheerful warble of the English black- bird is greatly missed by emigi'ants from the i)arenl country. The crow s[)ecies includes the American raven, the lisli crow, and the common crow. Blue jays 1 have; seen in lari>'e numbers in the fall and beginning of winter. rigeons, doves, and grouse (dusky, blue, riiU'ed, willow, and sharp-tailed, the sage-cock, prairie hen, and ptarmigan). All of these ])ossess excellent flavour, and the blue grouse in particular weighs 4i lbs. It is accustomed to perch on the highest branch of a pine-tree, and will stand repeated chaiges from a gun without moving ; it can only be; brought down by the rille. The chief obstacle to the enjoyment of a thorough sportsnum in relation to these varieties of game is that they are too easily shot. The crane, golden plover, kill-deer, ring })lover, the siu'f- bird, Bachman's oyster-catcher, and turnstone ; English snipe, grey snipe. Jack snipe, sandpiper, and sanderlings. iSwjins frequent the lakes of both colonies, and innu- merable quantities of geese are ushered in with winter, amonii; which may be enumerated the snow ^oose, the white-fronted goose, the Brant goose, and the Canada o'oose : tlie latter often reaches 17 lbs. in weiaht. Ducks KKITrLKS — INSKCTS. oO-t , Uiul WOOll- 1(1 an; visil)I(' in scari'li of tor suii-dowii i«i sound, jiiid distiii^uislicd LiiiL^lislun' and I'uen swallow, cs, finches, tho e ivd-win^Li;('(l llnL,dish hlack- i the i)arc'nl lei'icau raven, L' lays I liavi' w^f of winter. •uUctl, willow, d ptarmigan), e blue grou;>e (I to perch on and repeated lean only he; kstacle to the 111 ion to tlie>e lot. |)vei', the siu'i- ne ; English sanderlings. ^, and innu- with winter, i iXoosQ, tlie tlie Canada b'ht. Ducks are ''<|ually abundant, inchuliiig the mallard, black duck, pin-taileii, green-winged teal, s[)oonl)ill, American wid- geon, sunnner duck, scau[) duck, canvtisd)ack, golden-eye, buillediead, and hailequiu duck. Among the sea (hicks are the velvet duck, the surf diu;k, and the scoter. .Vniong the fishing ducks are the goosaiuU-r, the re(l-brea>te(l mei'- ganser, the hooded merganser, and another not named. In 11 sub-order of the s.ame s[)ecies may hv specilied the sooty albatross and two or three [)t'trels. Among tlu! gulls the glaucous-winged gull, the lierring gull, and the western gull. Among the cormoi'ants the violet-green ('(M'lnoraut. Among the divers the great noi'thcrn divci', tlu! black-throated, tlie I'acilic, and the n.'d-thi'oated. 'flic waters around Vancouver Island abound with the sea dove, the tufted pullin, and the horn-billed guillemot. In eniunerating Itrpt'dcs^ snakes in several varieties should not be overlooked, few if any of which are venom- ous. They are used by the natives as an iirticle of dii't, being eaten by them as soon as skinned. Lizards and bull frogs cross the path of the traveller in summer, and the incessant croaking of the latter in the fiuiet eveniiiLis of summer is as irritating as it is found to be in the West Indies. I can only remember to have i^^^aw a solitary worm since my arrival in the country. The Insect kinu'dom boasts some beautil'ul varieties of dragonllies, beetles, and butterflies. I'lie insects f It to be most vexatious hitherto have been horseflies, blacklli(.'s, sandflies, and mosquitos. The two latter are so numer- ous as to prcjve an intolerable pest in many [)arts of Britisli Columbia. But where the smoke of settlements ascends, and the land is brought under cultivation, those enemies of man and beast disappear. In the island they are rare, and their numbers annually diminish in Xew Westminster and the other i,n'owinix centres on the mtiiii- 304 FLORA. land. Oil the Fraser it was my experience to find tlieni most troublesome at the mouth of the Harrison. On a part of the trail to Cariboo, too, above CUnton, they attack with malignant effect, so that no traveller to the mines should go thither unprovided with a ' mosquito bar.' The Flora of the colonies present an interesting object of study to the practical botanist. Water-lilies, crow- foots, cressworts, berberry-worts, ' Oregon grape,' violet- worts, cranesbills, rhammads, blue lupine, purple clover, and several varieties of vetch, grow everywhei'c in wild profusion. Eoseworts of certain species are very numer- ous. In the month of May the plains are covered with the wild rose a'ld sweetbricr, and are redolent of delightful fragrance. Wild ap[)les, the mountain-ash, the service- tree, and cluster-berry are foinid. On clear groimd the huckle-berry, blue-berry, salmon-berry, raspberry, wortle-berry, gooseberry, and the flowering cui'rant abound. The conium, the dogwood-tree, the elder-tree, and the camj^anula also add picturesqueness to the land- scape. Cranberries are extensively consumed in the country, and have become an article of valuable export. They are used by the Indians as food, and are now gathered and put up in casks by the whites for sale in San Francisco. Several hundred barrels, containing 30 gallons each, arc already annually exported bj^ a few small traders. Hemp and flax grow wild ; and fi'om a certain wild nettle, the Urtica caunal/ina, the natives manufacture twine, rope, and nets. Oak is abundant in the southern part of Vancouver Island, though very scarce in British Cc^lumbia. The astringent properties of the bark of this tree render it important for tanning pur- poses. The hazel-nut is conunon in the latter colony. The conunon birch, abundant and of large size in the to find tliem •risoii. On ii Jlintou, they [iveller to the a ' mosquito resting object >lilies, crow- ^rape,' violet- tiirple clover, vhere in wild I very numer- covered witli , of delightful , tlie service- clear ground y, raspberry, ring currant le elder-tree, to the land- med in the lable export, nd are now s for sale in ontaining oO d by a few and from a the natives abundant in hough very properties of tanning pur- |itter colony, size in tlie SCIEXTIFIC XAMKS OF AXDfALS. 805 northern paits of Britisli Columbia, is of inferior dimen- sions southward. The alder is larire, and a favourite wood for turners. To Conifer.'^ reference has been made in preceding pages. The cedar (red and yellow) exists in con- siderable quantities, and often attains greater dimen- sions than the pine. It is sometimes found above 30 I'eet in cfirtli near the base. From tlie bark articles of wear- ing apparel are made by t];.- :.,,tives, and tlie houses of the settlers ava usually rooted with ' shingles,' answering the purpose of slates, made from this wood. Among the Grasses may be enumerated white pea, wild bean, ground nut, reed, meadow grass, white clover, bent spear grass, wild oat, wild timothy, sweet grass, &c. The fern, so prolific and annoying to the farmer, often reaches the height of from G to 8 feet. For some of the particulars in the above classification I acknowledge obligation to the list prepared by the late Dr. Wood, II. X.^ The following scientific names of animals found in Vancouver Island has been adopted by Dr. Forbes, Iv. X., from vol. 8, ' Pacific liailroad Eeports ' — TJST OF ANI.MALS. Folia concolor L. Lynx faseiatus liaf. ( 'anis nccidentalis var. prison albus. Canis occidontali.s var. nuljilii,'^. ^'lllpcs niacrouriis liiiird. ^lu!<tela IVnnantii EiwI, I'litoriiis Vison liaird. Mustela anu'ricaiia Turton. Prooyon ncrnamlezii Bainl. Castor caiiadonsis Kuhh Ursus anu'ricatiu.s Pal/dn, Cilllo lllSC'US. Lutra califoriiioa firm/. Enliydra marina Fletniitij. Sciiinis I)(iii^la.-ii. Ccrvn.s caiiaiU'nsis. CiTVUs ('olunil)iann.s. Mustt'la erniini-a. Fil)er zibotlicctis. Platyriiync-luis looninus. Plioca vitulina, and Arctocopluiliis nr.^inus. Aplocerns niontannft. Falco cnluniliariiis. X 306 SCIENTIFIC NAMES OF BIRDS. LIST OF BIRDS FOUND OX VANCOUVER ISLAND Falco sparverius. Astur atrieapillus. Accipiter fuscu.s. Biiteo montanus. Ilalat'itus leucocephalus. Bubo virj^inianus. Nyctea nivea. Nyctale acadica. Glaucidiuiu gnoma. I'iciis Ilamsii. ricus Gairdneri. Sphyropicus ruber. Hylatomus pileatus, Colaptes mexicaiuis. Sehasphorus nifus. Cliordeiles Popetue. Coryle Alcyou. C()ntf)pus boroalis. Tardus uiigratorius. Turd us iiiBvius. Sialia mexicana. Regulua Calendula. Regulus satrapa. Anthus ludovicianus. Geothlypis Maegillivrayi. llolmiuthopbaya celata. Dondroica Audubouii. Deudroica oestivi. Pyranga ludoviciana. Hirundo liorreorum. Ilirundo bicolor. Hirundo thalassina, Vireo gilvus. Vireo solitarius. Troglodytes hycmalis. Salpinctes obsoletus. Sitta aculoata. Parus rufescens. Carpodacus californicus. Chrysomitris pinus. ZonotricLia Gambelli. Zonotrichia coronata, Junco oregnnus, Spizella socialis. Melospiza rulina. Passarella Townsendii. Guiraca melanocepliala. Pipilo oregonus. Stuniella neglccta. Scolecophagus oyanoceplialus. Agelaius pliounieeus. Corvus carnivorus. Corvus caurinus. Cyanura Stellerii. Coluniba fasciata. Tetrao obscurus. Bonasa Sabinii. Grus canadensis. Ardea Ilerodias. Aphriza \irgata. Ilicmatopus niger. Strepsilas melanoeephalu.s. Gallinago Wilsoni. Gambetta nielanoleuca. Fulica amoricana. Cyguus americanus. Bernicla canadensis. Bernicla leucopareia. Bernicla Ilutcbinsii. Anser byperborea. Anas Boschas. Nettion carolinensis. Mareca americana. Fulix Marila. iintliia Vallisneria. Bucepbala americana. Bucephala albeola. Ilistrionicus torquatus. Ilarelda glacialis. Melanetta velvetina. I'elionetta perspicillata. Mergus americana. Mergus serrator. Lophodytes cucuUatus. Graculus violaceus. Diomedea bracbvm'n. SCIENTIFIC NAMES OF SHELLS. 307 Larns glaucescens. Larus Suckleyi. Colymbus torquatus, Colymbus arcticus. Colymbus septentrionalis. Podiceps griseigena. Podiceps occideiitalis. Podiceps comutus. Una columba. Brachyramphiia niarmoratus. LIST OF SHELLS, From the Rocks and Dredge off Esquimalt and Victoria Harbours. Palliobeaxchiata Lamellibranchiata ; Terebratellidce, Terebratella cauria and pulvinata. ScUTIBBANCniATA \ Pectinibranchiata tSolenida; — Solen sicarius. TelUnidce — Macoma nasuta, Strigilla caurina. VmeridcE — Tapes Petitii. Cardiadce — Cardium Nuttalli. Mytilidce — Mytilus edulis, Modiola modiolus, Modiola nitens. Pedinidcs — Pecten bericius. Ostrmdce — Ostrea concbapbila. Chitonida — Tonicia lineata, Mapalia vespertina, Ka- therina tunicata, Cryptochiton Stelleii. Aonmda — Acmooa patina, Acmaja pelta, Acmsea per- sona, Acmsea spectrum, Scurria Mitra. FissurelUda; — Glj'phis aspera, Puncturella cucullata. Trochidce — Zizipbinus annulatus, Zizipbinus filosus. Cahjptrmdce — Galerus fastigiatus, Crepidula incurva. Cerithiadce — Cerithidea sacrata. LUtonnidce — Littorina sticbana, Littorina plena. Naticidce — Natica clausa. Tritonidce — Argobuccinum oregonense. Purpttridce — Purpura decemcostata. Purpura emargi- nata, Purpura lactuca. Sttccimdce — Nassa mendica. JfMmtrf«— Chrysodomus antiquus, ChrysodomiLs Sit- chana. Is. LIST OF ECONOMIC PLANTS NOT PREVIOUSLY GIVEN IN THESE PAGES. Populus tremuloides. Pyrus rivularis. Salix Scouleriana. X 2 308 ADDITIONAL LIST. SHRUBBERY UNDER GROWTH. Corylus americana. Cornus Drummondii. Berberis aquifolium. Philadelphus macropetalus. Rubua nutkanus, leucoderrais. Ilibes divaricatum, niveum, and san- guineum Amelanchier canadensis. Sambuciis glauca. Gaultheria Shallon. Vaccinium ovatum, ovalifoliuni, and parvifolium. Symphoricarpus racemosus. Rubus spectabilis. Frangula Purshiana. Lonicera occidentalis. Hedera. Crataegus coccinea ? Lonicera involucrata. Rosa fraxinifolia. Trifolium repens. Glyceria aquatica. Poa pratensis ? Festuca pratensis. GRASSES, LEGUMINOUS PLANTS, ETC. Phleum pratense Stipa avenacea ? Juncus. Primula veris vel Douglasii. In addition to the leguminous plants and grasses given above, are the following, extracted from a list kindly sent me by Professor Balfour, of the University of Edinburgh. They form part of a collection now being made by the ' British Columbia Botanical Association ' of Edinburgh, through their agent in these colonies. This spirited scientific body have already expended nearly 1,000^. in prosecuting their interesting labours : — Carex sp. Imzula sp. Cornus Nuttallii. Spiraea paniculata. Taxus sp. Spiraea opulifolia. Alnus orogona. Acer circinatum. Arbutus Menziesii. Panax borridum, Spiraea sp. Boraginaceae. Rumex sp. LiliacesB. Vicia sp. Convallaria sp. Epilobium sp. Rhododendron sp. Pinus ponderosa. Wellingtonia gigantea. Centaurea sp. Rhus sp. Cruciferte. Allium sp. Malva sp. Scrophulariaceae. Andromeda sp. Sedum sp. Geranium sp. Picea amabilis. )valifolium, mosua. ADDITIONAL LIST. 309 Saxifraga sp. Lilium sp. Oreodaphne sp. Polygonum sp. Ericaceae. Lychnis sp. Ilieracium sp. Kubus leucoderniis. Sonchus sp. Asphode^ea). Veronica sp. Umbellifera). IjabiatoB. Artemisia sp. Lonicera Douglaaii. Potentilla sp. Pyrola sp. Abiea sp. iglasii. 'asses given kindly sent Edinburgh, ade by the Edinburgh, lis spirited 1,000/. in sp. gantea. ' 310 CHAPTER XIII. POLITICAL STATISTICS OF VA^X^OUVER ISLAND AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Grant of Vancouver Island to the Hudson's Bay Company — Governor Blanshard — Germ of the Colonial Legislature — Appointment of Governor Douglas — Dispute between Independent Colonists and the Authorities — Sources of Ilevenue — First liiU of Appropriation — Disproportionate Paraphernalia of Government — Kates of Taxation — Estimates for 1804 — Opposition of the Legislature to the Proposals of the Duke of Newcastle — The First Legislative Council of British Columbia — Iteception of Governor Kennedy — The Question of Union between the two Colonies — Public Expenditure of the British Columbian Government in 1803— Check given to Immigration in 1858 by the restrictive Policy of the Colonial Government and the Hudson's Bay Company — Testimony of the Grand Jury. I Vancouver Island. It has been shown tiiat, by deed of grant from the Crown, the Hudson's Bay Company were allowed abso- lute control of this colony for a period of ten years from January 1849. On the execution of that document, Eichard Blanshard, Esq., was appointed first governor by Her Majesty. Tlie charter provided that all civil and military ex- penses should be defrayed by the company, and his Excellency accepted office on the express understanding that the company should use proper exertion to attract population to the island, so tliat in a short time the local revenue from land sales and royalties on minerals would D BRITISH ■ — Governor t of Governor \utliorities — proportionate iites for 1804 of Newcastle lleceptiou of 70 Colonies — It in 1803— ['olicy of the imony of the from the wed abso- ears from lociimetit, governor ^itary ex- and his Irstanding CO attract the local Ills would (iOVKUNOli BLAXSUAliD. 311 be sufTicicutly increased to udiiiit of a civil list being framed for the maintenance of Government. In con- sideration of no salary being in tlie first instance attachi'd to the newly created dignity, it was ai-ranged tliat tlie governor should receive 1,000 acres of land adjacent to Victoria, and that his ])assage out slu)uld be paid by the company. After a residence of two years in the country his Excellency, wlio endeavoured to discharge liis duties conscientiously, resigned office, on the ground of tlie unhandsome treatment lie received from the local heads of the comj)any, Avho failed to remunerate his services in any form. Not even in regard to a governor's residence was their pledge redeemed ; and towards an outlay of 300/. incuri'ed by Mr. Blanshard in the voyage out, all he received from them was 175/. Yet, in consequence of the high rate of prices occasioned by the gold-fever in the neighbouring state of California, it cost him 1,100/. per annum to live. The chief officers of the company were supplied Avith articles of domestic consumption at 33 per cent, advance upon cost price, the inferior officers at from 50 to 100 per cent., and independent settlers — who were also compelled to purchase from the company — at the Californian rate, which was about 300 i)er cent, upon English invoice prices. The vexation ex])erience(l by Governor Blanshard was aggravated by this gratuitous officer of the Crown being obliged to \)\\y for the neces- saries of life on the latter exoi-bitant scale.* On the retirement of Mr. Blanshard, Mr. Douglas was appointed as re[)resentative of Her Majesty — j)robably throuLih the influence of some of the directors of the company in London, who were alive to the additional * Evidonce of Govprnov Pjlanslmi'd before tho Conunittce of tlie irouso of Coninions, on tlie alfairs wf tlie IIu(l'.on"s Hay Gmupany. I'^-'i?. 12 AlM'OlXniENT 01' MK. l)()L(iI.AS. facilily tliat would l)o aflordcd lliem in ^fiviii,^ cflect to tlic'ir sc'licuies of monopoly by luiving tlieir cliicf fjictor at Victoria invested with the i)owers of Crown agent. It Las been stated in the second Chnpter how dillicult it was for a gentleman, whose interests iVoni boyhood had been associated with the company, to resist altogether the temptation oflered by his position to give the duties lie owed his old eniployers, from whom he still derived the gi'eater part of his income, precedence over those claimed by his Soverei<i;n. The company were no longer restrained, by the presence of an uuparildl and indepeadciit representative of the Cj'own, from aggrandising themselves to the detriment of the general prospeiity of the colony. 15ut for tlie irre- sponsible control thus inconsiderately placed in the com- l)any by the Im])erial authorities, the large revenue aj^propriated by the former from the sale of town allot- ments in Victoria Avould have passed to the colonial ti'ca- sury, to which it legitimately belonged ; and protracted disputes, still unsettled, between the Crown and the com- ])any as to their respective rights in the lands of the colony, Avould have been averted. The peculiarity of ]\[r. J^lanshard's situation as pioneer governor necessitated that he shoidd imite in himself the functions of executive a 'd judge. In the latter capacity lie Avas chiefly occupied in adjusting differences between the company nnd their servants — the ordinary cause of grievance being some alleged breach of contract by the c;mployers. The germ of colonial legislation was planted by Governor Blansluu'd in the formation of a legislative council, coiisist- m^ of three members. The few settlers who were uncon- nected Avith the company expressed deep concern on the resignation of the first governor, that the a^gis which had JNciriKXT PAiuJAM i:nt. 313 L'F factor at Mgont. It (lidicult it yliood had altou'etliL'i' tlio duties .ill derived over tliot>u lie presence ;ive of the etri merit of >r the ii-re- in tlic colli- de revenue town aUot- )h)iiial trea- ])rotracted d tlic com- nds of the as pioneer limself the |er capacity ps between y cause of |act by the Governor Icil, coiisist- Icre luicon- |ern on the Iwhich had I al<»ne ])rotected tliein from tlie apprehended despotism of thi' company sliould be witlulrawn, and tliese defenceU:'ss colonists knew not how soon the lords of the soil iiiiLjlit render their condition luicoinfortable. ' By direction of the Kight Hon. II. Labouchere, tlien II. M. Principal Secretary for the Colonies, Mr. Doujilas, on assuming the government, issued a prochunation in I85G, calling on freeholders, being liritish subjects, in the colony, to elect members to serve in the leixislative as- senibly about to be constituted. The following districts were endo\v ed with power to elect representatives, in the l)ro[)ortion given below : — istrict of Vifturia . . . . o nu'iuljoiv> „ Esqiiiiiuilt niul Mot.ho.siu „ Naniiiiuo . . . . 1 „ Sooke 1 „ This incipient parliament, comprising seven members, was opened on August 12, 1856, by Governor Dougltis, in a speech amusingly magniloquent for so unpretending an occasion. The qualification for voters was fixed at the value of twenty acres freehold, and candidates for legisla- tive honours were required to possess real property worth 300/. This is remarkable as the first instance of repre- sentative institutions being granted at so early a stage in the history of a British colony. Scarcely had Governor Douglas entered upon the enjoyment of his new dignity when, on the plea of pro- moting the settlement of the colony, he urged upon the Imperial Government the advisability of allowing the thousand acres set ai)art as a governor's reserve to be thrown open for ])urchase. Whether it was by deshjn or coincidence is not here asserted, but this land was bought almost immediately by his Excellency and the Surveyor- General, at a mere nominal figure. The governor, it will 314 XKPOTISM OF MU. DOLCiLAS. be admitted, took disinterested and jnddic ground, to some jmrpose, in his {i])peal to the Secretary for tlie Colonies; for wliile ])oor innnigrants received no benefit from tliis concession of the home authorities, Mr. Douglas and Jiis friend enriched themselves immensely by the o[)era- tion. Ever-recurring causes of irritation and discontent be- tween the settlers and the company kept the two parties in relations of per])etual discord. The first great signal for rupture, after Mr. Douglas entered upon ollicc, was the appointment by him of his brother-in-law, Mr. Cameron, to the Chief Justiceship of the colony. This gentleman, though unversed in the mysteries of law before ascending the bench, has up to the present time exhibited a degree of prudence, firnuiess, and candom- in his ollicial decisions, which proves that he does not consider his jwsition a sine- cure. Still, his relationship to the governor, the situation i'rom which he was directly elevated, as clerk of the coal- works at Xanaimo, and the disappointed ambition of rival competitors for the dignity he had attained, combined to render his ai)pointmcnt very unpopular. The breach be- tween the settlers and the executive was widened. They memorialised the Home Government against the services of the new judge being continued, arguing that, under so unlearned a dispenser of justice, and one in so much risk of being trammelled by his dependence on the patronage of the Hudson's Bay Company, their lives and property were endancjered. Another development of the family comj)act that arose beneath the rule of his Excellency was the election of Mr. Ilelmcken, his son-in-law, a surgeon of the company, to be Speaker of the House of Assembly. A gentleman Avho married the governor's niece became Colonial Secre- tary ; a second son-in-law became Mr, Douglas's jirivate FIIIST SUri'LY JJILL. 11(1, to some u Colonics ; :'nL'lit from )oi!glas and tlio opuru- ::ontent be- two ])artiL's n'cat signal ice, was tlie \ Cameron, gentleman, e ascendiniT :(1 a degree al decisions, ition a sine- lie situation 3f the coal- ion of rival ombined to bi'cacli be- led. Tiicy lie services t, under so much risk patronage .1 property that arose Iclection of company, I gentleman Inial Secre- Is's private secretary ; and a third, Eegistrar-General of British Co- lumbia. The only available soiu'ces of revenue before 1858 were land sales and duty on licensed lunises. The income of the island in 1853 was 220/. ; in 1854, 400/. ; and in 1855, o40/. The expenditure for the year 1855, up to Novem- ber 1, was 4,107/. 2.y. 3(/. Tlic first bill of ap[)ropriation was laid before the House in December '50, and is a unique document which will, at some future day, be looked at as not the least interest- ing among the archives of the colony : — Wliereaa it is necessary that certain sums of money he voted for defraying the unavoidable expenses attending the conduction of the business of the House of Assembly of Vancouver Island, be it enacted : — 1st. That 501. sterling be placed at the disposal of his Excel- lency the Governor, to defray the; expenses of copying statistics and documents for the use of this house. 2nd. That 10/. sterling be granted to jNIr. Robert liarr, for his past services as clerk of this house. 3rd. That 51. sterling be granted to Mr. Andrew Muir, for his past services as sergeant-at-arms. 4th. That 251. be allowed for the salary of the clerk of the house, for the year 1857. 5th. That 15/. be allowed for the salary of the sergeant-at- arms and messenger, for the year 1857. 6th. That 20/. sterling be granted for lighting, heating, and furnishing the House of Assembly for the year 1857. 7th. That 5l. sterling be granted for stationery, for the use of the members of the House of Assembly. 8th. That the above items be paid out of the revenue derived from the licences of July 16, 1856. In this primitive legislature the influence of the Hudson's Bay Company continued to predominate till 1859, when the term of the company's charter expired, and the colony fell under the immediate control of the Imperial Govern- 'MCi llKriJliSICNTATIVI': INSTITUTION I'KKM ATLKK. iiic'iit, At the close of that year u new pjirlianicMit was elected, when the miiiiher of representatives was increased to thirteen. Another election has since taken i)lace, and the familiarity of Mr. lli'hncken with ' May's l*arlianien- tary Tractice,' togetiier with his natnral shrewdness, has secnred for him continnance of oflice as S|)eaker of the House n]) to the pi'esent. Next to the error of putting' Crown authority in the hands of a chief trader of the Hudson's IJay Company, was the indiscretion of granting a legislative assembly to so young a comnnmity. It is my decided impression that, even it the time 1 write, there is no necessity for such an institution. Till gentlemen of leisure, status, and ability could be found in sudicienl numbers to a})ply themselves to the .vork of colonial legislation, and public o[)inion in the country has become more matured, with the ex- tended settlement of ])opulation, a governor and council would have been quite equal to the legislative require- ments of the island. 1 do not say that any grave inconvenience has arisen hitherto from the apj)aratus for making laws (dready at work in the colony; still, a snuill legislative assembly, com- posed principally of men of small means, unpaid for their services, may be in danger of carrying or impeding measures from interested motives ; and where the inha- bitants are not generally of so permanent a description as to feel induced to Avatch with jealous care the debates of the House, facilities for such a breach of public trust are not wanting. Were irresponsible power lodged in the hands of an accredited and well-tried governor appointed by the Crown, there would be a safer guarantee that useful laws would be more expeditiously passed, and the interests of the people more eflectually promoted. The parajihernalia of government that now surrounds :ui-:. SOL'Ilt'KS 01' IlKVKMi:. Ml liaiiK'iit was lis ituTcascd 1 place, and I'arliiinion- wdiiess, has aker of tlic oi'ity ill tlic y Company, assembly to rc'ssion that, for such an and ability ' themselves jlic opinion r'ith the cx- and council ivc requirc- has arisen already at mbly, coni- id for their impeding the inha- ■)Cripti(jn as debates of c trust arc ^ed in the appointed antee that 3d, and the id. siuioiuids our nnscont. colony is too elaborate to bo suited to the simj)licity of |)resent wants, vividly recalliii^ a picture in 'rimch ' of Lord John Russell in the clothes of Sir Uobei't IVel, when the former succeeded to the i)ri'mieiship which had Just been vacated by the latter. Those who remember the striking,' disparity ap[)arent in the ii;^ures of the two men will at once perceive the force of the illus- tration. Besides a House of Assembly, there is jui Executive Council, embracing a few olRcials of Ciovernmeiit ; and n Leuislative Council, in which sit the Chief Justice, Treasurer, Attorney-General, Kegistrar-rieneral, the Co- lonial Secretary (when not holding a seat in the Lower House), and several private citizens appointed by the Governor. The chief sources of colonial revemie at present avail- able are a tax of one per cent, assessed upon the market value of real estate, and a trading licence levied as follows : — Colonial ti-aders pay an annual licence of live pounds, and on merchants and traders in general a half- yearly assessment is levied, as shown by schedule A in ' Trade Licences Amendment Act, 1802.' £1 1 10 •2 :{ 10 (5 1) 1") •irt .'}.") 45 55 (50 Lawyers are charged at the rate of 10/. ; bankers, 50/. ; civil engineers, architects, and surveyors, hi. ; Umloi • £100, half-yearly £100 and » 250 250 M 500 500 » l.(K)0 1,000 » 2,500 2,500 » 5,000 5,000 » 10,000 10,000 » 20,000 20,000 » .'50,000 .30,000 » 40,000 40,000 M 50,(X)0 Above 50,000 318 ESTIMATES FOR 18G4. auctioneers, 50/. ; real estate agents, 10/.; proprietors of billiard saloons, 5/. per table ; and keepers of bowling- alleys, 2/. 10s. per annum. It will be seen, from the subjoined estimates of colonial expenditure for the year 1864, that liquor licences and land sales still yield a considerable proportion of public income. Tlie proceeds from the sale of Crown lands, however, are intended to be applied to the support of the civil list. Estimates for the Year 1864. ABSTRACT OF PROBABLE REVENUE — HEADS OP RETENtTE. 1. Real Estate Tax ^G5,.300 2. Trade Licences . 27,580 3. Liquor Licences 24,000 4, Land Sales 31,912 5. Land Revenue . 1,528 6, Harbour Dues 17,000 7. Postage Dues 3,500 8. Fines, Forfeitures, and Fees 9,000 9. Fees of Office . 4,000 10. Miscellaneous 200 11. Reimbursements 1,000 12. Lighthouses 3,500 Revenue for 18G4 . ^188,520 Arrears of Revenue 25,000 Due by the colony of British Columbia, on ac- count of temporary Loans, repayable on de- mand ...... 43,050 Due by the colony of British Columbia, on ac- count of Lighthouse expenditure 4,384.63 Advances to Crown Agents, London, to be ac- counted for . 55,104.97 Balance of 40,000/, Loan, undrawn 6,1G8/. 29,914.80 Advances to the heads of Departments, to be accounted for . . . . 148.50 Due by the Corporation of the city of Victoria 6,362 Due by the Home Government 10,258.85 Balance in Treasury . . . . 23,525.08 ;$385,869.43 ESTIMATES FOR 1864. 319 3prietors of of bowling- of colonial icences and Q of public :"0wn lands, support of ENTJE. ^65,300 27,580 24,000 31,912 1,528 17,000 3,500 9,000 4,000 200 1,000 3,500 188,620 25,000 43,050 4,384.03 55,104.97 29,914.80 148.50 5,362 10,258.85 23,525.08 585,869.43 Abstract of the Sums required to defray the Expenses of the Colonial Govermnent of Vancouver IsUutd for 1864. HEADS OF EXPENDITURE. 1. Establishments; Snlnrics i'ixeil Snlarips r. and T. Office Rent Total The Governor ^14,550 ;$14,550 Colonial Secretary . 4,890 ^500 ^500 5,890 Treasurer 4,110 , , 720 4,830 Auditor .... 1,095 , , 80 1,175 Surveyor-General 4,125 500 580 5,205 Assessor .... 2,425 • • 400 2,831 Harbour-Master , • 2,850 250 3,100 Postmaster . . 2,800 175 2,975 Chief .Justice . 0,380 , 250 0,(')30 Attorney-General . 2,455 , . 250 2,705 Sheritr .... 1,000 250 100 1,350 liegistrar-General . 1,940 485 250 2,(}75 Commissioner of Police . . , 11,735 100 11,8.35 Governor of Gaol • • 4,840 25 4,805 Majristrate, Nanaiiiio . 2,200 50 2,250 Legislative Council . • » 500 100 600 House of Assembly . • 1,700 1,750 .3,450 ^42,970 ;^28,360 ^5,586 ^^76,916 2. Administration of Justice 3. Charitable Allowances 4. Police and Gaols 5. Rent 0. Education 7. Conveyance of Mails 8. "Works and Buildings 9. Roads, Streets, and Bridges 10. Miscellaneous 11. Interest on 40,000/. Loan 12. Sinking Fund for do. 13. Lighthouses 14. Revenue Services Total 3,0"" 2,750 9,487 1,760 5,000 11,800 78,078 51,800 26,112.50 11,640 7,760 7,000 1,600 ^295,309.50 The following sums, as compared with the tables that 320 OrPOSITIOX TO THE CIVIL LIST. precede, will sliow tlie steady advance made in tlie annual income of the colony. Actual Revenue for 1801 I8(i2 1803 £2.-,,201 1 24,017 30,000 The amount received in 18G2 may seem to indicate retrogression in colonial prosporty. But tlie reason of this apparently adverse result was that the collection of yearly instalments, due in that year by farmers upon land bought from the Government, was postponed in conse- quence of heavy losses of stock and produce sustained by tliem from an unusually severe winter, for the rigours of which recent settlement had rendered them unprepared. But for this circumstance the revenue for the year 18G2 would have considerably exceeded that of 18G1. The civil list, detailed in tlie above estimates for 1804, was proposed by the Duke of Newcastle for the acceptance of the House of Assembly. His Grace intimated that the Crown lands of the colony — which were about to be con- veyed by the Hudson's Bay Company to the Home Govern- ment, on the claims of the former being liquidated — should forthwith be assigned to the Local Lcf^islature. The con- dition of this transfer of Crown property by the Home Government to the House was that the salaries of the governor and the heads of departments should be defrayed from the proceeds of Crown land sales. But the proposition of the Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies met with the almost unanimous opposition of the Assembly ; the opinion advanced by the members being that the value, present and prospective, of the Crown lands was greatly over-estimated by the Duke of New- castle. Certain resolutions were passed by the House in February 18G4, and the following quotation from tliese OPIXION OF THE ASSEMBLY. 321 tliu auuiuil 1 to indicate reason of )lleetion of I upon land I in conse- istained by riizoiirs of nipreparcd. year 18G2 1. ;s for 18G4, acceptance ed that the to be con- II e Govcrn- lel — slioiild The con- the Ilonio ics of tlie ishoidd be ales. But ,ate for tlie tion of the Ibers being he Crown of New- House in roui tliese will give a general idea of the objections on which the attitude of tlie Assembly was based : — The Legislative Assembly havinfj had TUider considenitioii that part of the despatch of Her Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, dated June 15, 1863, wherein the pro- position is made to the effect tliat as soon Jis the Legislature of Vancouver Island shall have provided by permanent Act a civil list, amounting in all to o,(S00/. (which his Urace considers tlie prospects of the revenue appear to render no more than fitting), tliat his Grace will be prepared to hold the Crown revenue of Vancouver Island at the disposal of the Legislature, and to place the colony under a governor, distinct from British Columbia, begs leave most respectfully to observe : — That the annual revenue of Vancouver Island, including that received from the sale of Crown lands, amounts to 35,000^., and that the population does not exceed 7,500 persons. That the ordinary expenses of Government are not less than 27,000^. per annum; thus leaving a very small sum for the great necessity of the colony, viz., internal improvements. That the sum received from the sale of Crown hinds in 1863 amounted to 4,500/., much of this arising from the payment of instalments upon land sold some years ago at 1/. per acre. Moreover, there is reason to believe as well on account of land having been reduced to 4s. per acre, as also of the amount of laud being comparatively small, that the revenue from this source in future years will at all events not be greater. It may fiu'ther be said that a considerable sum will be requisite for the extinction of Indian title to, and the surveying of, such land ; and as a Government residence for Her Majesty's repre- sentative does not exist, a still further outlay will be needed for the erection of such an edifice. The House is therefore of opinion that neither the condition of the general revenue, nor the income derived from Crown revenues, would justify the acceptation of the proposition of Her Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies. In the middle of 1863, the Duke of Newcastle sanc- tioned the constitution of a Legislative Council for British Y 322 RECEPTION OF GOVERNOR KENNEDY. Columbia, to be composed one half of Govermnent officials and the other half of members elected by the people of the colony. At the close of the same year the aimouucemeiit was formally made that a Governor was to be sent out for each of the colonies. It was then that the disputed civil list was first submitted for the considera- tion of the House of Assembly in Vancouver Island, and the conclusion arrived at that, as the latter colony was un- equal to maintaining efhciently a separate staff of officials, its union with British Columbia should be urgently sought. The decision of the House to this effect had just been transmitted to the Home Government when, in March '64, Captain Kennedy, the new Governor of the island, landed from EnjTfland. The colonists, exultino^ in the last link of their connection with the sway, directly and in- directly, of the Hudson's Bay Company being broken, received the new representative of their Sovereign with manifestations of enthusiastic loyalty and respect. So delighted were they at the contrast between the quondam fur-trapper and his gentlemanly successor that, for days after the arrival of the latter, shouts of joy and emblems of congratulation were Avitnessed in every direction. But the gratification of Governor Kennedy by this warm reception Avas, doubtless, considerably moderated on his learning that his salary, in common with that of other officials, had been struck from the estimates for the year, by a unanimous vote of the Assembly. But as a man accustomed to quick and accurate observation, the Governor soon perceived that the resolutions of the House on the subject could not possibly be meant as any personal affi'ont. The Legislature, having custody of the public rights simple, felt compelled to join issue with the Imperial Government on a measure which, if adopted according to '\ TWO GOVERNORS UNNECESSARY 323 ovcrnment ,ed by the le year the venior was s tlicn that ( considera- Maud, and )iiy was un- ' of officials, le urgently id just been , in Marcli the island, y in the last ctly and in- ing broken, rereimi with ■espect. So le quondam. I at, for days nd emblems ection. But this warm ated on his at of other jr the year, as a man vation, the f the House my personal the pid)lic lie Imperial ccording to the instructions of the Duke of Newcastle, must, in the o[)inion of the House, have entailed taxation, whicli would be found oj^pressive to a population so snudl as is at pre- sent in the colony. It is no evidence of unproductiveness tliat at so early a period of colonial growth the expenditure of a dispropor- tionately heavy civil list camiot be met. At the same time I am unable to agree with that part of the statements recorded by both Houses of the Legislature thtit present incapacity to hold a separate existence as a colony argues that sufficient revenues, from Crown hmds and rovalties on minerals, will not eventually be fortlicoming to sup[)ort comfortably an official staff. Still, the purport of the opinion expressed in both Houses concerning the desirable- ness of uni(3n, every one anxious for the pi'osperity of the country must approve. The enquiry would naturally occur to an intelligent visitor from any Australian or Atlantic colony, why should British possessions, divided by threescore miles of water- passage, containing an aggregate po[)ulation of but lifteen or twenty thousand, and Avhose interests are indissohibly bound up together, be launched upon a career of separate existence ? The colony of Xew South Wales, for example, continued to embrace a vast tract of country which was not cut up into a plurality of colonies till an extensive increase of population had created that necessity. But this natural law governing the formation of other new settle- ments has been shigularly reversed in the instance under consideration. And on whom rests the blame of this imhappy schism ? Had Sir James Douglas been as anxious to conciUate from the iirst the not unaccountable })reju- dices of the people of Xew Westminster as lie was to assert petty dignity, and to frown upon all who did not oiler that exact measure of worship which he tliought due to him as y 2 324 ESTIMATES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA FOR 18G3. tlic Grand Lania^ tlie brcacli between tlie two colonies would never have occurred.* British Columbia. Tlie afTairs of tlii.s colony are administered by a Governor and Legislative Council. The heads of departments in- clude a description of functionaries similar to those who conduct the i)ublic business of Vancouver Island. Tlie Treasurer is ex-ofhcio Master of the Mint, his corps con- sisting of a Chief Assayer and Chief Melter, with their assistants. The accompanj^ing financial statement is taken from the speech of Governor Douglas, delivered at the o[)eniiig of the first session of the Legislative Council, held at West- minster in January '04, and shows a remarkably progres- sive spirit in a population that does not exceed 7,000 or 8,000, and many of that number of a migratory class. Expenditure of the Colony for the Year 1863. Debtor balance from 18G2 .... Redemption of Road Ronds, created 1802 Ixepayment of Advances to Imperial Government Civil E.stablisliments, including Salaries, Allowauccs, Office Con tingencics . . .... Administration of Justice, Police Gaols . Transports and other Expenses, "Works and Ruildings I'ublic Roads ...... Interest on Loans and Sinking Fund Colonial Pay and Maintenance of IJetacliment of Royal Engineers Conveyance of Mails ..... Miscellaneous ...... Total . £9,r',0-2 12,<!r)0 7,()00 ?A,C,]r, 5,701 ir,,28.-< 8:!,0;57 18,72.", 7,Oo7 2 22." i 4,802 T19278OO * Governor Seymour, of Rritisli Columbia, showed admirable sense in the speech with which i^e opened the Legislative Coimcil of that colony last December, when he gave it as his conviction that one governor of the colonies west of the Rocky Mountains was, for the present, sufficient. 63. vo colonies a Governor rtnients in- tliosc who land. The J corps con- , with their en from the opening of iV\ at West- lily progres- sed 7,000 or ry class. 863. ,on Incera £0,n02 12,('>r)0 7,(X)0 81,(51.-, 5,701 8:5,0:57 l:?,72r, 7,057 2 22:5 4',:302 11927800 |l)le sense in the [hat coliiny last of the colonies ESTIMATES CONTINUED. lii'ouj.'-ht forward (Expenditure) The ruhlic Ivevenue for the same period lias produced, in round nmnhers ..... il 10,000 llonds created and Loans contracted in aid of IJevenue 05,H()5 Excess of Expenditure over luconio Duo to Imperial riovernment in Ifepayment of Ivxpeudituremade on account of the l>ariaclvs and other Military I5uildiii;,fs erected for the useof iloyal Engineers at New Westminster Total . . . , Charge to he brought against the lie venue of 1804 : — Ifoad llonds fallingdue in '01 . . . £4,250 Interest on Loans ..... ^i,000 Siulviug Fund ..... (»,5{M) Expenditure on Civil Establishments, viz. Salaries, Allowances, and Contiu'^encies ..... 325 4:102,800 175,805 17,055 10.700 £27,755 18,750 3,'],915 ( )th(T ordinary Expenses, viz. : — Iievenue Services Administration of Justice Police and Gaols Charitable Allowances Education .... Itcnt .... Transport .... Conveyance of Mails "Works and Buildings lloads, Streets, and Bridges (Repairs) Miscellaneous Services Liyrhthouscs £425 1,000 ,'],050 400 5(J0 150 8,2<;5 •1,000 J!,000 5,000 .'{,503 800 jle Expen- 27,400 £120,000 107,010 £107.010 £12,090 Total of ordinary, necessary, and probal diture for 1804 Estimated Pievenue from all sources for 1804 Expenditure .... Surplus for 1804 Instead of a surplus, however, the unforeseen expenses attending the pursuit and trial of Indians concerned in tlie fearful massacres perpetrated in the colony last year, amounting altogetlier to 10,000/., will cause tlie public accounts for '04 to show a small deficit. 32C POLICY OF GOVERXOR DOUGLAS. Comparative Statement of Customs Revenue (exclusive of ^I'Olll Road Tolls) from 18r.9-18G3. iHr.o JH(«) 1801 m)-2 * 1803 ;j!'s8,n4r>.80 171,010.0:$ 181,701.04 281,01 7.(54 270,101.10 A serious clicck was given to tlie advancement of this colony by the j-estrictive pohcy of Governor DougUis, in liis double capa(nty as agent of tlie Hudson's ]^)ay Company and representative of the Crown in 1858, when a large immigration aflbrded an o])portunity for rapid develop- ment wliich may not soon return. The despatches of Sir Jiulwer Lytton, then Secretary of State for the Colonies, re])eatedly uiged upon the Governor the adoption of a liberal policy, and, as the sequel shows, not without sufficient reason. Ilis Excellency issued orders that every person entei'ing Fraser lliver should be charged $1 head money ; that each miner should ])ay a royalty of j^5, and that no one should be allowed to trade without hrst obtaining a permit, for which another charge was made. This latter arrangement, however, w^as a mere ruse, by which the public were made to su})pose that they were at liberty to do business in British Columbia, though the monopoly of tlie company i-emained iminterrupted ; for when permits were applied for they w^ere not to be had. The truth was that the company sought to exclude all goods from the coimtry except such as might be shipped by themselves or bought at their stores. A permit was required to legalise the act of cutting down a tree or picking iip drift-wood on the beach for cooking purposes ! For every cord of wood sold by an axeman • The special increase tlii." year was occasioned by unusually large immi- gvation. :lufiU'e of 15.80 lO.o:} 01.J)4 17.(i4 01.10 lent of this Douglas, in y Company It'll a largo id duvelop- Secretary of le Governor quel shows, 3ncy issued r should be lould pay a ed to trade ler charge was a mere ;e that they jia, though nterrupted ; not to be to exclude might be stores. A ing down a for cooking an axeman ly largo imnii- rOLlCY OF GOVEUXOR DOUGLAS. 327 he was charged ten per cent. No shelter could be erected between the head of the miner and the nightly cliill without a tax of $71 being paid for the privilege. No canoe, navigated by white men, not servants of the com- })aiiy, could ascend the Fraser without a ' sulleranc^e ' charge of S^) being exacted. There was a similar impost upon vessels, amounting to ^12. Head-money and licence to trade, to run up a log shanty or pitch a tent, were charges believed to have been made by the Governor as chief factor of tlie company, under warrant of their claim to the exclusive liulit of tradinii; in tlie territory, though that alleged right had relation, according to the terms of the charter, only to transactions witli the Indians. A mule-tax was subsequently attein})ted to be imposed by Mr. Douglas in belialf of the Crown, but was overruled by the united voice of the inhabitants. There was every propriety in measures being planned for raising a revenue to defray expenses connected with Government and the public "works of the colony. But it was thought the tariff already in force — given in a pre- vious chapter — with certain other taxes, would yield sulFicient to meet present wants. To saddle with an incubus of taxation adventurous pioneers, intre[)id ex- plorers, and enterprising traders, who were staking their all in developing a country bristling with formidable difficulties of access, evhiced a degree of governmental inexperience and mismanagement without parallel in the history of British colonisation. The most liberal encou- rac^ement ouslit to have been extended to those hardy ind industrious immigrants, irrespective of their nationality, who were Avilling to bear the tremendous risks necessarily incident to the primary stage of colonial settlement. But liis Excellency entertained undisguised and indiscrimi- nate prejudice against persons hailing from California. 328 CilKCK TO IMMUaiATlON IN 1858. Donlitlcss tlic first tide of immlnrrntion from that State M'iiflL'd to tliL' colony iiumy iiiinily incinbers of society. l>!it tliat class is hy no mi'aiis coiiliiicd to the United ►states; and justiiH' compels nie to state that l^ut lor the eneruy and perscvei'aiice Ih'oultIiL to hear hy those from tlie neighhourinu' JJepnhlic, onr re-ources would still luive remained comparatively sealed. 'I'lie ca|)italists of (Jreat Ih'itain have thus far appeared even less interested in ]jritisli Columbia than they are in many a foreign country. It might naturally be su[)p()sed that after witnessing the disastrous results of the })olicy I have indicated in the reduction of tlie ])opulation from 30,000 to one-fifteenth part of that niunber — which was the state of things on my arrival, eighteen uionths after the excitement of March '58 — the Governor would have shown siu;ns of re<iret for ])revious indiscretion. Yet in his first conversation with me at Government House lie still clung to the ()})inion that ' foreignei's ought not to be encouraged to extract the precious metals from our soil to enrich their own territory.' liather tlian permit the merchants of Cahfornia, on whom we wx're unavoidably dependent for supplies, in the first instance — owing to our great distance i'rom other parts of tlu; ]5ritish empire — to profit by the trade which would be created by throwing open our mines to the world, his Excellency w^ould keep our mineral treasures locked up. Had so glaring a fallacy been acted upon by the authorities of Caliibrnia in 1849, when crowds rushed to that State in quest of gold, and barriers been delibe- rately thrown in the way of traders from Chili, whence most grain imports were brouglit to feed the gold-seekers, how injurious must have been the effect upon the settle- ment of the magnificent lands Avatered by the Sacramento and the San Joachin ! The representatives of every clime, iM:ij-TAri:is.\r. 320 tliiit State of society. tlie I'liitc'd l)ut lor the tliose (Vol 11 il still liiive [s of Great terested in ,'11 country. witnessing ated in the iiG-fifteenth tilings on it of March ' regret for sation with he opinion to extract their own fornia, on ui)l)lie8, in roiii other ade which lies to the treasures d ujion by ds rushed en delibe- li, whence Id-seekers, the settle- acraincnto ^ery clime, however, were Jidii.iJed with equal welcome to compete in the race lor the precious metal, and in (ifteeii years a ])')piilation of nearly a million has collected in a State the most prosperous in the world. True to the exclusive ])ro])ensiti('s nui'tured under the rnjimc of tiie coiii|);iiiy, his J''\cellent'y dreaded rapid progress as associated with anarcliy, foreign annexation, and other frightful api)ari- tions of a mind habituated to the associations of semi- barbarism. Tiie absurdity of his conduct could not have been more llagrant had he imagined the wealth of the colony to be most eflectually secured by retaining the gold in the earth. It seemed to have been his impression that unless our resources were disembedded by purely English hands, colonial impoverishment must inevitably ensue. But no one need be informed that the riches of a country are only fictitious till its [u-oductions are evolved by capital and labour, and occasion money to be put in circulation. Multitudes hastened in former years to California and Australia from every i)art of Europe, ^\'ith the intention of siin])ly acquiring a competency, and afterwards returning to their native country. ]}ut in most cases their allections became gradually loosened from their former homes, and entwined around their new abode, till at leuiith they resolved to make the latter a permanent place of residence. Thus would it have been with thousands who visited British Columbia seven years ago, the benefit of whose means and industry were hopelessly lost to the country through the blunders of the local executive. The cumbrous system of ' red-tapeism ' which hindered the development of the mines, proved equally mischievous in preventing the settlement of agricultural districts. Land in '58 could rarely be had in British Columbia on any terms, not even at the Grovernment price. The uni- 330 NO LAND AT AXY rRICK form reply to all who inado Mpplicatloii for ranniii«jj trarts was, that the laud imist llr.^t bo siii'vcycd under ollicial direction, and put up at auetion, before it could be taken ])o.ssession of, and that all squatters would be visited with suiuinary ejectiiieut. h^uch Wiis the repulsive sMlutiitioii with which hundreds were met on their iirrival, who had broken up Ibnd tics elsewhere, jmd undeitakcn an ex|)en- sive voyage, with the view of cultivating the soil — men wlio were at once imhindered bv natural obstacles, and furnished with the means of improving farming allotments. Nor did this injudicious mode of treatment on the pMrt of the authorities result merely in the exclusion of the j)arties innnediately conceined, but also in that of many of tlieir relations, who would ])robably have been subsequently attracted to the country by their representations. Mr. I). G. F. Macdonald, whom I camiot recommend as nil infallible ouide in iji-neral to intendiuL; emiiiirants, nevertheless records a well-authenticated illustration of this official folly. He applied to the Chief Commissioner of Lands, in behalf of certain clients, for a thousand acres of land, in March 1859. A proclamation hjid been issued by the Governor, dated February of that yeai', to the effect ' that the price of land not being intended for the sites of towns, and not being expected to be mineral lands, shall be ten shillings per acre, payable one half in cash at the time of the sale, and the other half at the end of two years from such sale. Provided that under special circum- stances some othei" price, or some other terms of ])ayment, may from time to time be s])ecially annoimced for parti- cular localities.' After considerable delay, the Chief Com- missioner, doubtless at the suggestion of tlie Governor, declined to entertain the application of Mr. Macdonald, though made in exact conformity to the terms of the proclamation. The latter gentleman was obliged to inform DOINGS IS TlIK LAND OFI'ICK 331 nlii<i; IrarU Ut olliciiil .1 be taken isitc'd with salutation I, who had an oxpi'ii- fsoil — men tac'lc's, and iillotincnts. tlic pai't of tla; parties ly of tlieir bsequently IS. ^niniend as emigrants, stration of ninissioner sand acres >cen issued ai", to tlic d for tlie oral lands, in casli at nd of two 1 circuni- ])aynient, for parti- liief Coni- Governor, [acdonald, lis of the to inform la his clients that the lands could not be had at any piic.c till first surveyed and |)ut U|) at public auction, no ellbrts l)eing made by the authorities lo facilitate the object sought. Many other api)licant-i for laiul, having all the (|ualities suitable for I'euderirg them sui't;cssful pioneer farmers, driven away l)y the narrow and dilatoiy ])olicy of those in ])ower, have since distributed themselves in the United ►States, Canada, and Australia. Witnesses examined recently before the Crown Lauds C\)nnnittee in Vancouver Island, in '(5 1, brouiiiit to liuht culpable acts connuitted in the Land Ollice ol'that colony in '58, whereby the desiivs iuid hoi)es of intending settlers were similarly disa))pointed. When a wish was expressed l)y an {ii)plicant to record a piece of land, and the Colonial ^urveycjr suspected it to be ol" suj)erior quality, his custom "vvas to ask the person to call in a day or two that he might obtain time to ascerttiin whether or not it had been previously disposed of. It is reported that in the meantime he conmumicated with cej-tain of his land- speculating friends ; and should they feel inclined to buy it, the one having a prior right of a])plication Avas ])ut ofT with the story that the lujlding on which he had set his mind was already the propeity of another.* The high price of land demanded by the Government in British Columbia at the outset was of itself a sufTiciently l^owerful drawback to the jirogress of agricultural settle- ment, without the addition of such annoyances as have been described. What could have induced the Govern- ment to charge lOx. ])er acre for land in that colony, when it ctaild be 'pre-empted' south of the 49th parallel at little more than 4.s'. i)er acre, it is diflicult to conceive. The policy of the United States Government, admirably suited to promote the spread of agriculture, allows to every • Evidence of Mr. Iloinfray, C.E., Lcfore the Crown Ijancls Comtnittoe. o *> .> (iUANl) JURY THSTLMONV licnd of a family IGO acres of unsold laud, wlietlier sur- veyed or not, at the figure just s])eeilied, i)ayable in instiiluieuts. A liberal modilication of this system now obtains in IJritisli territory on both sides of the Gulf of OJeoi'uia. Lut the eliauue was not brouuht about till one remonstrance alter tmothcr was addressed to the Governor, and multitudes, with })atience exhausted, had made their exit from the count rj'. Tlie testimony of the grand jury of tlie colony, com- posed of the most intelligent citizens, in deliberating u])()n its grievances in 1800, substantiates the view of the subject that has been advanced above. It was asserted in their published declaration that, about the period to which my remarks refer, tuw hundred British suhjects had been com- l)elled to leave the country, witJiin a feic iceeks, m conse- quence of the mijustifiable delay that was suffered to elapse in providing them with land for settlement, and that many had expended a great part of their limited means while awaiting the decision of the Government. The grand jury 'expressed their unqualified disapproval of land being sold by auction, as that course enabled the i:!j)eculator to })urchase to the detriment of the ;;>ettler.' Every facility ought ungrudgingly to be afforded the industrious bona-fide tiller of the '^round entering the wilds of a new country, with perliaps a family, and subject to the endurance of imavoidable hardships and privations. So far from throwing barriers in his way, it were more expedient to convey the land to him in free grant as an inducement to exertion. But that the monopoly of land- speculators may be repressed, I would, without the least hesitation or pity for their condition, advocate that their holdings, whether consisting of to'.rn or city property, should be taxed double. The general statistics presented in this volume will ore MlSIlULIi: TlilRMIXATKD. O O O ctlier siir- »avable in stem now e Gulf of lit till out' Govcnior, nude tlicir ouy, coin- itinj^' upon lie .subject d in tlieir wliich my been com- , in consc- Liffered to iiient, and ir limited vermiient. a})proval i])led tlie ttler.' )rded tlic ering tlie id subject •rivations. ere more ant as an of land- tlie least bat tlieir [)roperty, i will ere tliis have convinced tlie reader that the period of govern- mental em[)iricisin and misrule has disappeared, and tliat the colonies liave at length entered on a careei' of pros- perity tlie future of wliich will disajjpoint the fears of the most incredulous, and surpass the expectations of the most Jiopeful. XOTK. A pi^rind of sovoro financial dcpros-ion was o.xpcrionooJ in Victoria diirliifr last wintor, arisin;.'- from over speLMilaliou in Iradinjir and niiiiinir. Certain colonial politicians liavo taken occaMnn to ascrilx- this panic to tiic free-port system, and have for tlio moment succeeded in carrylii^^ witii tliem in tliis view many farmers a)id meclianics wlio not unnaturally desire protection for tlieir several industries, lint tlie wealthier classes, though in the minority, as electoral voters, are of u very dillereiit opinion. It is reported tliat <io- vernor Kennedy — desiring, properly enough, to he supported in a mamn'r more befitting the IJepresentativo of Her Maje.-ty than he has IjeiMi hitherto — sanctions the proposal in order to swell tlie revenue of the island hy the imposition of a tarill". But to adopt this expedient would inevitahly arrest the progi'ess of the colony. We liave no industrial interest in Vancouver Island 'vorth piv.'ecting, and if any impediment he thrown in the way nf the free ingress of trade to Victoria, the cliief source of local prosperity will be seriously injured. The trappings of (iovernment, no doubt, have their advantage, jii'on'dcd thei/ he not in (idaincv of thr iwtod and ncccsftdifs of tlw settlement, JUit when out of proportion to the numbers and ability of the population, and when stiiple interests are sacrificed to sustain them, they must prove tiie opposite of beiieticial. If free scope be given to tlie opera- tions of tradi', the wealth of the city will be rajiidly augmented and ex- pended by merchants through whose hands it passes, in the erection of costly warehou- • ■ "ud dwellings and in domestic luxuries. Kniployinent will tliiisbe* given t(j every sort of handii-raft in tin- colony, and coinnindities for the sujiply of the inhabitMiits will l)e obtainable at modeiate prices. If agricultural and manufacturing interests be protected, as of tin.' first con- sideration, the rate of living, generally, will be increased ; and while com- merce will consequently be cliecked, the fornu'r pursuits, whicli must for many years, in any case, be of secondary importance, will not be materially benelited. A recent mail brings intelligence of a change in the Customs taritV of British Columbia. With tin,' design of encouraging direct shipments from foreign ports to New Westminster, an Act has been passed by whiili duliis in this r«/'/vyj(^< shall bo henceforth leviable on the invoice value of goods at the place of sliipincnt, instead of, an fonnerli/, on their ridae at Xcw WeitihinMer, An Act has also passed the I>egishuive Council of Britisii Columbia, authorising an expor duty on gohl. 334 ClIAriEK XIV. PROPOSED IvTEROtr.ANIC RAH^WAV KMIGRAXT ROUTE AND TELEGRAPH — TIIEIU IXFLUEN'CE UPOX THE GROWTH OF THE COLOXIES. Westward, ITo ! — Trade with the East coveted bj' Western Xations from remotest Antiquity — The Tyrians, Sic. — Alexander the (^Jreat — Antiochiis — Mahomet — The Arabians — lOU'ect of the Discovery of a Passage to India vi(i the Cape of Good Hope — America found in the Search for the shortest Koute to the I'ast — Wliy has tliis Communication, so indus- triousl}' sought, never been practically realised ? — Etistern Trade now to flow across to the American Side of the Pacific, and great Cities to grow up in its Track — The Americans preparing to receive and distribute ]']astern Commcrco by the Construction of an Inter-Oceanic Railway — Would such a Line on the British Side pay ? — It must prove the shortest possible Koute to Australia and China as well as British Columbia — The political Utility of the Scheme — How transcendent its Influence upon Victoria — Most eligible Tract of Country for the proposed IJailway — Siniiular natural Features of the great Valleys through which the Lino would pass, favoring its Construction — Central Position of lied L'iver Settlement — Itoad riti St. Paul's — Alleged DitHculties in the Way of ex- tending the line from Fort Garry to Canada — Ifailway Enterprise nut likely to take immediate Efl'ect— Emigrant Route imperatively demanded— The Conrse it should take from Lake Superior — I low are the territorial Rights of the Hudson's Ray Company to be adjus'.ad'r' — Dr. Rao and the Telegraph — Climate and Soil of the Country between Canada and British Columbia — The Adaptability of Red River and Saskatchewan for Colo- nisation — The Gold Discoveries East of the Rocky Mountains and their Attractions— Pa.'ises in the Range — Lord Milton's Journey — Distances from Lake Sup<'rior to Caiiboo — Strides of Ru.«sia in opening up Water and Telegraphic Communicntion between the Amoor River, Sitka, .and St. Peter.'sburg — Designs of Napoleon I H. in Relation to Mexico and Trade in the Pacific — By whom is the desired Route to be formed ? — Note. The pro.'^peets and advantages of Victoria as a convenient depot for storing Britisli and Frencli goods intended for ROUTI-: AXD GROWTH OF n Xations from oat — Antiochus f u Passage to ! Search for the tion, so indua- a Trade now to Cities to grow and distribute mic Railway — )ve the shortest Columbia — The Influence upon sed Railway — vhich tlie Line of Red L'ivor he Way of ex- Enterprise not 'ly demanded — the territorial r. Rae and the ida and British wan for Colo- :ains and their ey — Distances ling up AVater or, Sitka, and ) Mexico and be formed ? — convenient tended for \ /I 1 RAILWAY SCHEME SLOW BUT SURi:. 335 \ "A ^^ E distribution throughout countries on tlie American sliorcs of tlie Tiicific, liave uh'etuly been pointed out. The free- port system ado[)ted in that city, taken in connection with our exports of tin^ber and fish, ^vluch meet with a pro- fitable (uid increasing market in Chiiui, give Victoria 1^ unrivalled laciHties for idtiinately becoming also a vast emporium for Eastern commerce. The day is approach- ing when the choice products of China, Japan, and India will be discharged at our wharves for trans-shipment not only to the order of buyei-s in the Jidjoining American, Mexican, and other States on the coast, but to the consign- ment of merchants in the cities of Canada, the Xorthern United States touching the boundary of Ih'itisji Xoi'th America, and in those future centres of populatic^n whose industry will yet enliven and reclaim the trackless but fertile solitudes lying between the Kocky Mountains and Lake Huron. Does the reader enquire by what mode of transit this merchandise is to be conveyed to those destinations in the interior, on the frontier, and on the banks (^ the St. Lau- rence? I reply, by a Jiritisli Xorth American railway which shall unite the Atlantic witli the Pacific. I have ceased to be sanguine respecting the speedy accomplish- ment of this project under the ])arsimonious policy pur- sued by the Home Governmei;t in reference to the colonies, and considering the indilU'reiice with Avhich tliey are regarded by the British public generally. Jiut the tide of human migration that has since the creation of our race been rolling westward from Asia, still advances rest- lessly toward the lands of the setting sun, undeterred by the turbulent waters of the Atlantic or the lonely wilds of the great American continent. As certainly as Eiiroj)e, once the abode of barbai'ians, has become densely studded with the homes of civilisation, so will the expanse of ^v. (f Ill''"/- ' . I? ■'# ^ lEo: 151 r l(> lie Cr-oH H 0(l BY PROPOSED \VA(H,Oi\ UOiVl) X- TKLKCIUl'll KiijjliHh Miles iiyi liimion l.iiiiiniiui ,1- r<'. liiuion /ii>ni)mii/i ,(■ fo. 0>i I) TRADE WITH Tin: KAST. ])rMirio niid forest on British soil, extendi ml; fi'oni ocean lo ocejui, heeonie elu't'iTiil with the sound of well-renuuie- rnted inchisliy, and beautiful with tlie ornaments of cultivation. 'I'he nudti])lyinL!: ('onnnerei;d neees:-ities of this nuihitude, whose watchward is '■ \\\'stwai'd, ho!' will inuivoidahly create tlie tiiVAi machinery of transit to whicli I have referred. As time jM-oiircsses, and tlio relation of England to eastern countries i^rows still more Ultimate, the expe- diency of nitikinii; an interoci'anio railway to run the entire distance throuLfh Hritish America will be more and more felt both on commercial and j)olitical grounds. Control of trade with the Ka-t has been coveted as a pi'ime source of wealth by western nations from the remotest antif|uity. Mercantile connnnnities en^ap'd, from aire to aue in carrying eastern freiuht, have in- variably prospered from the undertakiuLT, and the <:randest cities of ancient and modern times have owed nuich of their sj)lendour to the i'act of this rich trallic ])assing' throuizh thenu In the deuree in which that all-absorbinu* trade was at any time diverted from an accustomed channel, the commercial centi'es that had previously re- ceived an imi)ulse from it declined. The Tyrians, ( Jreeks, liomans, Saracens, ^'enetian-!, Portuguese, Dutch, and KnL!;li>h afford monumental proof of these statements. Alexandei" the Great, directly he had obtained a foot- ing in India, set about opening up comnumication between that country and his western ])ossessions. Failing to discover a suitable overland route, he sent a lleet down tlu; Indus to ex])lore the passage thence to the mouth of tlie Euphrates. Xot satislied with the route rit'/ the valky ol' the latter river, he i'csoIvcmI to brinir the Avealth of India to luu'ope by the licd Sea and tin; Nile. He fixed on the Avestern mouth of that .stream as the site of the city I AXCIi:XT COMMERCE WITH MECCA. 137 'll-rL'iiuiiu> MllU'lltS of '(.'.ssitics of I, li..!' will transit to ]iii;l;in(l to tllC VX\)V.~ run the 3 more luul iiiids. jvotc'd as ii from the 1 I'liufai^cd, , liavc iii- \Q u^randost d DiiU'li of lit; ])assin^ -al)soii)inLf eustoiiiod viouslv re- IS, ( I reeks, uteli, and lents. ed a foot- n Ix'tween Failing to t down tlu! )Ulli of tlie e valley of Ii of India fixed on f the city wliieli was to [)er])etiiate tlie nienioiy of liis name and his commereial sagacity. But in propoi'tion as Alexandria nourished, Tetra, rulniyra, Tyre, luid Constantinople de- ca3'ed. Antiochus the Great, Tamerlane, and Nadir Sliah, all souglit, like the mighty general referred to, to enrich their kingdoms by encouraging conmiercc with India and the countries beyond; and what privileges they could not secure iVoni eastern nations by re(juest, they endeavoured to extort by force of arms.* j\Iahomet — himself once an experienced and a shrewd merchant — permitted his followei's to associate objects of connnerce with their religious pilgiimages to Mecca; and it is dilllcult to say how much they were indebted to this cause for the astonishing spread of their faith in the eastern parts of Asia. Large caravans of ])ilgrims from the distant regions of the East, as well as from the shores of the Atlantic, travelled to Mecca, and the ho})e of dis- posing of their wares [)rolitably at that rcli'i/ious mart gav(^ a considerable impulse to connnei'co by sea and land. In tlie holy city were exposed for side thechint/es and nuislins of Bengtil, the shawls of Cashmere, the spicis * III tlio I'tTsiiui L'l'ii I'xteii.sive comm(.'rco "wiis carriLHl on hotwoou Uio (iivL'k f'ilics (HI tlu' IMack Sm aiul all tlie interior of Sytliia, north and oast iViiiii Siberia to India. Dill'crcnt caravan rontes wore wmA, and ctties ijrcw itj) lit hath viiilsof tJicfic nn(fc!<, luid liir(jc dvpot^ were o^tdhlixhcd oit tlie irai/ . , . 'i'lu! Hindoos in their most ancient worlis are represented as a conunereial ju.'ople. Their commodities vero luiown in tlio markets of IMuenicia, CarlhafTO, l'';.''ypt, and IJabyhm. In the Arahian Xi'i/Jds and in tho liaiini- ;/(i/i(f, nii'rchants appear as havinj^f travelU'd from one phice to anotlier all over th(! world, and as men possessed of liberal views, hif,»'h rank, and of the hij^hest intelliiienco. . , . A re-^-ular chain of mercantile nations extended at a very remote day from China to India and to the Black Sea, and to ihu {•onntries on the Meiliterranean, and also to Arabia and ICpypt, throuLrh tin; (ilies of the Indns, tho I']uphrates, and the lied Sea. (iold was so plentiful tliat iron was more precious. Their armonr and their horses' bridle-bits were plated with il. a-< also nniny of their vessels. — Trade and Letters, hi/ Dr. W. A. .Seult, p. loO. Ot>0 15ASS0RA1I — CONSTANTINOrLE AND CHINA. of ^I;il;il);ii', llic (lianiniids «if 0(.)1c()1u1m, llic [)riiils of Kilfjiiv, ihc ciiiiiaiiioii ol'CV'yK)!!, thu imtincjjjs an<l cloves of the Moluccas, jiiul the silks of China. The transactions at the annual fair in Mecca were for many years (he Uirufesi in the woiKl. The Aral)ians, under Calij)!! Omar. Avitnt'ssed a reinark- al)le iniprovenu'iit in thcii' condition fVoni the potent cause now under consideration. From beini:' Imrharian liordes, violent rohbers, ' dwellers in tents,' and despisers of civilisation, they became |)atrons of art, contributors to science and literature, and ibundei's of cities. S) hijj:hly did they come to valui' mercantile relations with the East, that they built Bass«)rah to ])rotect their mono[)oly of eastern ti'ade; and it is si«j;niiicant that their overwhelm- ing power as con(juerors and as propagators of religion was contemporaneous with their being the e.viias'ice air- r'u'rs between China and I'iUrope. 'J'heir tratle was uni- versal in the Indian Archipelago, and their vessels plied from the TcM^ian Gulf and the lied !5ea to all the ports of China. ISo numerous were the tSaracens at one period in Canton that the emperoi' granted his sanction to theii- having a cadi of their own religion. Ti'ade then ilowed from the north-vv^est of China to Constantinoj)le, tmd in- fused into that city new life. iSo marked was the in- lluence thus exei'ted on Constantino[)le that llobertson asserts that the decline of the Ivoman empire, of which it was then the capital, was retarded in conserpience. When the trade of India was attracted by the Tersian Gulf, the Euphrates, and the Syrian desert, ' Tadmor in the Wilderness' burst into si)lendour like a iiiirantic tro- })ical blossom. In presence of great and aml)itious neigh- bours, it long maintained its prosperity, and even rivalled ' the eternal city.' Egypt, ^Mesopotamia, and a large section of Asia Minor, were subdued by its arms, and its it. TIIR TUADi: OF LVDIA— ITS COURSK ?)30 [)rMlls of [\U([ cloves laiisiu'lions yc'iirs tlio u ixiiiiirk- tlie potrnt liarlnuiaii I (k'spisL'rs j'ibuturs to t>() l»i<j:lily ;li the East, uiiu[)oly of )VL'rwhelm- oF ivliiiioii •Idsirc <'((!'- (J Avas uni- C'sscls plied tla.' ports of e period in 311 to their hen ilowed )le, and in- vvas the in- liobertsoii oi' which it .'nee. the Persian Tadnior in •■i<_rantic tro- tioiis neigli- veu rivalled nd a la ru'c rms, and its I ivnowned Queen Zenohiu did not shrink from contesting- donnnion with a great Uoman empei'or. When, suhse- (luently, eastern coinnierco was diverted from the Tersian to the Arahian (lulf, the sun of Babylon, lUissorah, ralniyi.., and Tyre went down, and Tetra arose as the niedium of su])plying Euroi)e with Oriental merchandise, and subsequently Alexandria became renowned in the same capacity. 'J'he glory of Venice, ' tlie bride of the sea;' of (ienoa, 'the superb, tlie city of palaces;' of KloreiK.'e, the metropolis of tlie arts; of iJruges, the great distributing centre of eastern gootls for western Europe under tlie Ilanseatic league; of Antwerp, Lisbon, and London, — the glory, I repeat, of all these cities, whether as seats of commerce, manufactures, leai-iiing, or art, is derived, in various degrees, from their being mouths to rece've Oriental freight for the supply of countries by- whit h they were respectively surrounded. The discovery of a path to Lidia by the Capo of Good IIo[)e led to a revolution, not only in the route between Europe and the eastern parts of Asia, but also in what is known as the [)olitical ' balance of })ower.' The golden tide now swe[)t the shores of Portugal, and by sharing the boon that hail enriched so many other peoples, she swelled into the proportions of a commercial empire, vying in opulence, political wisdom, and energy with the proudest nations of that time. The next great historical event bearing upon commerce with the East, and the issues of which are destined to be fully realised only on the Pacific shores of the western world, was the discovery of America. The hope that stimulated the ambition and roused the energy of Columbus, in undertaking that first exj)loratory voyage westward, was that across the untracked Avaters of the Atlantic, ' A/// the trtw, the shortest, and the best u'luj to the z2 %. ^. ^ "^^'^Q. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) fi y ■^ \,\J 150 "^ ll I.I 2.5 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 J4 .« 6" - ► y] ^%' ^1 y >^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 f/j • 340 OBJECT OF THE SEARCH FOR THE riches of the East' All tlic earlier expeditions of dis- covery from Europe to the shores of the western con- tinent had their origin in tliis idea. It was in prosecuting the search of a passage to the East that the seaboard of America came to be more accm^ately known. It was while exploring for a maritime route to China that John Cabot, in the reign of Henry VII., discovered the coast of Newfoundland and afterwards entered the St. Laurence. The thouglit that gave inspiration to all the luckless attempts that have been made by England, during the last seventy years, to find a north-west passage, was that tradic with the East might be facilitated. At length the enterprise has been demonstrated to be impossible. It has been well said that, in passing tlu'ough the icy portals of the Arctic Sea in 1850-1851, M'Clure, as far as mercantile interests were concerned, closed the gates behind liim.'^ In these heroic adventures the instinct and aspiration of ages were not altogether mistaken. America is geographically or by nature — that is, in other words, is in the order of creation — a connecting link between tlie continents of Europe and Asia, and not a monstrous harrier between them. It lie§ in the track of their nearest and best connection, and this fact needs only to be fidly recognised to render it in practice what it unquestionably is in the essential points of distance and direction. It may be asked, if this be so, how can it be explained that this communication, always thus earnestly longed for and in- dustriously sought, has never yet been made a practical reality ? Chiefly, I should answer, because that communication was never sought in the way in which it does exist, and because it is not to he found — it is not there — in the shape in which it has nearly always been sought. A maritime passage has been the object of all preceding ages, and, practically and generally speaking, * Mr. Poiuborton states that Arctic expeditions from 1800 to 1845 alono cost Enfrlantl upwards of 1 ,000,000/. sterlin«r. iXORTII-AVKST I'ASSAGi: — WHY A FAILURE? 3-1] ions of dis- restern con- prosecuting seaboard of ,vn. It was I'd that John the coast of Laurence, the hickless u'in2; tlie last ,s that tradic he enterprise las been well 3f the Arctic tile uiterests id aspiration ,t is, in other link between strous barrier ,rest aud best recognised to tlie essential xplained that d for and in- ctical reality ? ion was never cause it is not 1 it has nearly een the object •ally speaking-, 00 to 1845 alono I tljere is none; but what there is — a passage across the continent by rivers, lakes, and land— has become of greater value than could have ever been a merely maritime passage. Two irresistible agents are at work bringing to light the incalculable value of that conformation so loiuj deemed an insupemhle obstacle. They have changed the requirements for the attainment of the objects of the north-west passage, and have disclosed the inexhaustible latent wealth of a land instead of a maritime passage, liailroads and the electric telogi-aph will cause new commerce and new activity to spring up at every step along the distance. ... It is too late, alas I too late, to lament over the waste of life, of mone}^ and of energy, that have been expended in repeated Arctic voyages, which were impossible of success, so far as related to any passage of practical use ; but they serve to illustrate very forcibly the predominance of the ideas o^ maritime effort and of maritime connection with the Pacific. . . . The lavish and continued expenditure thus incurred appears in striJdnrj contrast to the ri(/id refusal sinmltaneousbj main- tained of all aid to the prosecution of tlie same u'ork and of the same object in its practicable form by land; and this refused, amouiding almost to opjposition, has extended from, the days of M'Kenzie, the first great discoverer of both tlie 'northern and v:estern coasts of the continent, and is not yet perfectly dispelled.* It has been shown how the transportation of eastern commodities in a westerly direction in by-gone ages, by- various routes, affected successively the growth of cities that served as mediums of this commerce. By a similar process great commercial centres are destined to spring- up on the American coast of the Pacific. The young and thriving populations that sAvarm with such fabulous ra})i- dity on the western shores of the American continent will soon be found emulating the zeal and enterprise of ancient nations in regard to conunerce with the East; and as that * Paper read on ' Central British Xortli America/ by Col. Synge, R.E., F.Il.G.S., July 21, 180i, before the Britisb North American Association. 342 TRADE WITH THE TACIFIC THROUCai B. N. AMERICA. traffic has in the past been wafted westward to Europe, it is now beginning to flow eastward for transmission over tlie American continent. That nation, tlieref'ore, wliicli possesses tlic greatest topographical facilities for uniting the two oceans by a railway, and is forward in improving them, will miquestionably become master of the situation. The fear, however, cannot be altogether repressed that, notwithstanding the obvious physical advantages presented by our territory for the execution of this great and desir- able work, those advantages may be nullified by our national indifference about the matter, and our designs forestalled ])y our more progressive neighbours. Woidd that the cogent appeal of Lord Bury, some years since (a nol)le- man who has no superior in the British Legislature in acquaintance with this subject), were duly pondered by the Government and the people : — Our trade in the Pacific Ocean with China and with India must ultimately be carried on through our North American possessions; at any rate, our political and commercial supremacy vjill have utterly departed from us if vje neglect that very great and im- portant consideration, and if we fail to carry out to its fullest extent the physiccd advantages which the country offers to us, and which ive have oidy to stretch out our hands to take ad- vantage of. The House of I^epresentatives at Washington, several years ago, as is well known, passed a Bill for the comple- tion of an iron road from the Atlantic to the Pacific States. The line, already as far west as Atchison in Missouri, is steadily extending to California, and another line from the proposed terminus in that State is advancing to meet it.* The peculiar natural obstacles that oppose the construction of an interoceanic railway through ♦ The House of Iioprosentatives at Wasliingtoii passed a Bill in February last, granting a subsidy to a line of steamers about to be established for carrying mails from Sau Fraucisco to China. I ERICA. WOULD A RAILWAY PAY i 343 » Europe, it lission over ore, wliicli for uniting improving le situation, 'cssed that, ^s presented t and desir- )iu^ national ; forestalled id that the e (a noble- gislature in ondered by h India must 1 possessions; icij vj'dl have eat and im- to its /idlest offers to 'MS, ( to take ad- on, several lie comple- the Pacific Atchison in nd another s advancing that oppose ly through ill in February established for Ij ll American territory, as contrasted with the nuich fewer trials of enirineerhio; skill to be met with on the British side, furnisli an op})()rtimity of our yet being first, if Ave will, to com})lete this momentous enterprise, even at the eleventh hour. Ever since the discovery of gold in Cali- ft)rnia, the ablest military engineers of the United States liave been engaged in searching for a practicable outlet in tlie Eocky Mountains ; but not a single pass has been detected for 1,000 miles south of the 41).th parallel less than 0,000 feet higli. In 185,5, Mr. Jefferson Pa vis, then Secretary of War, stated that 'the only practicable route for railway communication between the Adantic and Pacific Coasts of Xorth America is through the Hud- son's Bay territory, on account of the desert land from the north boundary of the United States to the extreme south of Texas.' In 1858, the Governor of Minnesota also admitted that ' a great interoceanic communication is more, likely to be constructed through the Saskatchewan basin than across the American desert — the cretaceous and comparatively rainless areas of the southern latitudes Avithin the territories of the United States.' But the practical enquiry is, Woidd the proposed work be satisfiictory as an investment ? There can be no doubt that the outlay would be large, but it is believed that the amount of direct traffic Avliich w^ould be created between Australia, China, India, Japan, and England, by a railway from Ilalifiix to the Gulf of Georgia, would soon more than cover interest upon the capital expended. The dis- tance between Liverpool and Vancouver Island, which, via Ptmama, is over 9,000 miles, would be reduced by the railway to 5,050. There Avould also be a saving of twenty-two days in this passage as compared Avitli the qiuckest existing route. If the intended railway were connected Avitli a line of steamers plying between Victoria 344 TO IIOXG-KOXG AND AUSTRALIA VIA VICTOrilA. (V. I.), Sydney, and New Zealand, mails, qnick freiglit, lid cubii and cuDui passengers to and from our colonies m the soutlierii lieinispliere would, for tlie most part, be seciu^ed lor tliis route. Vancouver Island is nearer to Sydney than Pannma is by 900 miles, and, Avitli the exception of the proposed route by a trans- American railway, the latter is the most expeditious that has yet been found. But with this interoceanic communication, the time to New Zealand would be reduced to forty-two, and to Sydney to foi'ty- seven days, being at least ten days less than by steam from Endand via Panama. The following table Avill illustrate the distance and time in the Vancouver Island route from Endand to ITon^- Kong, as contrasted with the present mail route via the Isthmus of Suez : — Distance overland by Suez from Southampton to IIong-Kong 0,407 miles— 50-00 days. Distauee from South- ampton to Halifax 2,532 miles — 9 days' steam. Distance from Halifax to Vancouver Island 2,030 „ G „ rail. Distance from Van- couver Island to 0,053 ., 21 „ steam. 11,121 miles— 30 days. Hong-Kong >> As compared with routes now used between England, China, and Australia, this one possesses the advantage of shortening the time spent at sea, as well as of being actually the quickest. A great proportion of passengers to those parts of the globe, who now travel by Suez or the Cape of Good Hope, might be expected to select in pre- ference the railway through British North America, as less trying to the constitution, as w^ell as more expeditious than the routes now in use. In these br.sy days, when the saying 'Time is money' is more remarkably exempli- fied than ever, this proposition in reference to our postal ^ ;k frc'iglit, ics ill tlie JG secured to Sydney :ccption of , tlie latter But witli w Zealand ■f to forty- iteam from e and time to ITonu;- ite via the -rjO-GO davs. «s— aO clays. 1 England, t^antage of of being lassengers uez or the 3ct in pre- nerica, as s^peditioiis ays, when ■ exempli- Qur postal POLITICAL UTILITY OF THE TllAXS-AilKIlICAN ROUTi:. 315 relations and passenger communications with the countries above mentioned cannot very much longer esca])e the attention of political economists and men of business. Another noteworthy circumstance may be stated as l)lacing the success of the project here advocated beyond dispute. Tlie present passage by steamer from New York to San Francisco extends over twenty-four days ; b}' the contemplated iron road, with regular steam connnunica- tion between Victoria and San Francisco, the ])assage would be reduced to thirteen days. A considerable part f)f the teeminij multitudes that with fi'eiiiht and treasure are continually in transit between California and the Atlantic States would, in that case, be induced to ])rerer a mode of conveyance which should combine speed and exemption from the inconveniences of a tedious vt)yage through the tro})ics.* But the impoitance of this railroad scheme is enhanced when its j^olitical utiUty is considered. British Columbia and Vancouver Island constitute the western teiminus of a future belt of settlements that shall stretch eventually from ocean to ocean ; and military emergencies may occur, if not in the present, in some coming generation, Avhen necessity for such a great highway to our eastern ])ossessions, wholly through British territory, may be strongly felt. Happily, Great Britain lives at present on terms of amity with the rest of the civilised world. Can we be certain, hoAvever, that in the extension of French power eastward, British and Frencli interests will never c(3me in collision ? Is it impossible to predict what may be the issue of the noiseless but real self-aggrandising policy of France in seeking fresh acquisitions of territojy * If our railway be not made within seven years, this latter remark will cease to have force. In spite of physical difficulties, I believe the Americana will have theirs liuished in that period. 11) TRUE ^'0^iTlI WKST TASSAlili ill llic i\l('{lit('iTnm'iiii, and in expending so vast an ainonnt njjon llie lonnation of tlie eaiial across tlie Istlinius of Hnez f In the event of war with that or any otlier luiropean Power interrn])ting tlie existing overland passage iVoni England l)y the lied !::?ea, it is almost nei'dless to remark that our Indian empire would be plaeed in immi- nent jeopai'dy. Should Ave, under these circumstances, be destitute of those facilities for the expeditious transport of troops and military stoi'es w^hich tlie projiosed line of railway could alone adequately su])ply, (idtiin est would be ai)tly descriptive of all we h(jld dear in the East. On the supposition of tJi'is trite north-west jxisnaj/e hv'mgi made, how transcendent the })rospects of M(.'toria ! Our geogi'aphical position and surrounding resources in every variety are of themselves advantages suflicient to cnsiu'e for us a great futiu'e. But with the increased impetus to trade and connnerce that such a railway Avoidd give, how inmiensely would that progress be accelerated, and how much more brilliant would that future become ! Our central situation in relation to extensive lines of convey- ance southward and eastward, by land and by sea, would at once elevate our port into an emporium for the supply of British and eastern merchandise to all the countries on the coast, as well as a point of ti'ansit for goods and })asscngers bound to and from England and the East. Apropos of this subject, an able article in a recent number of the ' Money Market Eeview' contains the following : — That under these circumstances the railway will he made, sooner or later, there can he no doubt. . . . With interests so numerous, so vast, and with such means at command, the diffi-^ cuky of constructing this Hudson's Bay Railway ought to assume the most moderate proportions. Great Britain, Europe, Canada, the States of America, British Columbia, New Zealand, Austra- lia, the Hudson's 13ay Company, and the International Financial {Society, all want the railway, and would all gain l)y the railway ; EI.KIIBLH TRACT OF COUXTUV. >H Jill iunoiiiil, [stliiiius of any otlicr lul ])a>>il,L!'0 IL'l'dK'SS to (1 ill iiiiini- lunslaiicos, s transport scd line of est would East. ^■.s(((/e being w'vd ! Our _'s ill L'vory t to cnsiu'c impetus to I give, how .1, and liow )me ! Our of convcy- sea, would the supply 3untries on a'oods and the East, nt number lowing : — 1 be made, interests so a, tlie diffi- it to assume pe, Canada, nd, Austra- il Financial he railway ; and it would 1)0 amazing if, with siit-li interi'sts and .-^ucli rc- sonrccs, it could not hv made, and l)e made properly. In India, State j^'uarantees liave been };iv»'n, and an- [)ri»mised upon rail- way capital sufficient to construct tins line ten tinies (tvcr; and it is a ([uestion whether any one Indian railway is mure useful than this even for State purposes. In introducing the question of the most eligible tract of country for laying down the proj)()sed line of railway, it may be mentioned generally that tlie principle known as 'great circle sailing,' by wliich distance is shortened in long voyages, may be advantageously Ibllowed in travel- lino; westward across the American continent. Commu- nication with the East is made shorter and shorter the ftu'ther north its line of route is removed. The ai)prica- tion of a string to the measurement of the distance between two places on a gcograjdiical globe will at once elucidate the system of sailing or travelling on ' the sj)herical line of shortest distance.' The greatest breadth of the western continent happening to he in British North American ter- ritory, here, by an a[)parcnt paradox, but nevertludess on the principle just adverted to — universally acknowledg(Ml in practical navigation — Ave have the shortest possible route from Enoland to the East. It is an hiteresting cir- cumstance that where we desired the connection between eastern Asia and western Europe, should be formed through the American continent, there ' almost every possible faci- lity for its formation is lavishly aflbrded.' Here, where the climate is the most healthful of the continent, within territories still acknowledging the flag of England, still forming part of the empire, the most interested of any nation in quick and in secure communication Avith the East, and in Avhatever tends to advance the cause of civilisation and of com- merce ; here Nature has marked out the line across the continent, and has abundantly combined every facility for its completion.* * I'apcr by Col. Syiige, p. 7. ;}18 SIX(;il,AU FACT I\ AMi:i!l(AN (IKOCJlJArilY. 'Hie _Li'i'('iit wiitcr syslciiis of lliis region iiic Mil iiislriictivc <iI)'H'ct ol' sdidy, 5111(1, ji.s coiimt'li'd uilli the l(»j)itt iiiulci' coiisidcrntioii, liave ik'V( r received the iitleiitloii tliey de- 5^1 rve. Tlio direction in Avliicli tlie slreiinis of a country ilow usiuilly detcnninu tlic ciiiinicter it will asisunie. KivcM's are tlu^ Lr'st pioneers of civilisation. In count ricw where tliey freeze, they form the hest of winter roiuls ; and where they are navi^^ahle, they decide the course and directiijii of coininerce: they (h) this even in the era of railroads. . . . As (I rul<',nra!li'(>ad <((.hnllf^ noivhere of move cai^y Cdihshniciion thdii (doiKj the hauls or hi the direction of a iuit'l(/(d)le stream, whereas to execute a line across tlie direction of many water- courses is, in every sense, a very cross-grained and expensive operation. Now it is a sinp;idar fact in the geography of Anio'ica that in the direction of the St. Lmirejice, and there onhj, the rivers of America take a direction eadmul icest. Tlic Mississippi and tlie Missouri, liaving tlieir sources close to tlie Britisli frontier, disembogue into the Gulf of Mexico. The M'Kenzie, after winding its way tlirougli nearly six- teen ])arallels of hititude, discharges into tlie Arctic Sea. On tlie other hand, in that track which possesses the climate most favourable for an overland route — as if by special design of a Supreme Power — the waters of the St. Laurence penetrate well nigh half way across the countr}-. Tlie central water system is perhaps the most curious of any on the continent. It comhines the characteristics of tlie others, and embraces both the north and south, the east and west direc- tions. Type and figure of the comitry which it fertilises, it seems to stretch out its friendly arms in every direction to greet the advance of civilisation, and to fjicilitate intercourse in every direction, and to enable a vast country to be opened almost without an etfort. It connects with the St. Laurence system by the chain of lakes and rivers that finally merge in the Winnipeg Kiver. ... By the various branches of the Saskat- II V QL'IC'Ivi:ST ROL'Ti: ACROSS. 10 I iiislriKiivc (•j)i(', iiiidci' i>n tlity (Ic- f Ji country \]\ countries niiuls ; fviid 11(1 (lirc'ctioii •ads. . . . y)iisfi'n<;ilon •((hie strc<(h), nariy wuter- d expensive )f Aino'ica t/iere onhj^ icest. Tlie :cs close to of Mexico, nearly six- Arctic Sen. ssesses the 3 — as if by s of the St. lie country. rious of any f the others, I west direc- fertilises, it ion to greet rse in every sned almost mce system irge in the the Saskat- i clicwaii, it penel rates into the heart of the Rocky .Mount;iins, and indicatc.'s tlu; practicable passes tliroiiLfl" »^liat olhcrwise stern barrier, and, by the Assiniboin(,' and (^ii\Vppell(! jiivers, it tra- verses tiio vast central plain in nearly a strait^dit line.* Let us suppose we are journeying IVoni east to west, and want to go l)y the (quickest route across tiie American continent : — Whether our ])lace of starting- be Kuro[)e, the West Coast of Africa, the West Indies, or the Eastern Coast of the North American C(jntineut — if (>"r (joiil be. the Pacijic or Ihr. A'^/.s/, our best route, n<i// (diaosf (jur on!// one, is iwro^ss the (/rent idaiii of central liritisJt Ainericd. There is, in fact, the point of jvmctiou where all the traffic of the continent from the South, from the V^ast, and even from the Nortli, most naturally uniti's, if its destination be the 3'et further West, until that word is lust in its aim and goal, the East or the Antipodes. We are henuned into this position. We eann(d alter the earth's spheroidit;/ ; ive cannot chanf/e relative ilistances; ^ve cannot do avaij vjith the, physical conformation of the earth. We cannot, though we may nearly double the distance, get rid of the great arid and rainless desert in the territory of the adjoining republic. There we can find no rivers coursing in any direction to aid us. We cannot— at least, for any practic^al purpose — we cannot hope to cross over that long continuation of barren and mountainous land ; we cannot travel the mountains when they offer no faci- lities to our hand. Ca)i it be uneconomic to open a countr(/ havinr/ this r/eneraliti/ of access, and yet holdiiu/ such a mono- poly of adcantafje? Consider for a moment. Adjoining are the new territories of the United States, ready to pour in tiieir contributions and their wealth. Whether from ]Miimesota by the Eed River or by the Mississippi from the States of the South, and from any point, in fact, between New Orleans and the northern extremity of Maine from Canada, or from the Gulf Provinces ; even if we look to the far North, if the utmost alj- breviation of distance has been tJte object, and the far East the goal, by taking advantage of the proper season we may slujrten * PapiT l)y ' '1. ''^yiigi', p. It. iii) FOFIT (iAKIlV VIA ST. TAULS. tlic distant; from Isiiiopc 1, ,'>()() miles liy proceeding acros.s Jliidsoti's Hay. lUitfrout ivJu't'CA'ci'H'e may comi^vje nacpssarHi/ 'H II ill'. In l/idl fjirdt shrwa of ti'dljh' l/mf, hound fur the Pdc'ifio or till' Kiisl^ inct'ta on the |>/(fc//<«i of the lied Ulcer or the Sna- katehenuin. It is a Himi)lo fact, l)iit oiu; (hat must I'Xcrt uii irrt'sistilik! force; in fuv«nir of this route to tlie PaclHc, that it thus iiiiitcH midway acmsH tli(! cuntiiieiit all the imuimcrahle and Avidi'ly-(liv('ri;ent lines of railway and of laki; and river navi;;a- tion that cover the eastern portion of the continent, and radiate over its every part. Here they all centre, here they all unite.* It is highly probable that iii c()ust'([uc'iK;e of the district of coiiiitjy from the aistcni shores of liuke Ilui'on to lied liiver beiiij,' as yet tm[)o|)uljited, and access to the latter settleiueiit being already so convenient through Minni'sota, the railway when commenced will be (irst opened fi'om Fort Garry, tuid that the space intervening between lied liiver and the present western terminus of the Grand Trunk will be completed as settlement advances. In antici[)ation of this being the order of events, the hiha- bitants of Minnesota are pusliing on a line to connect with the ])ro]iosed railway to the racific on British soil. Tort Garry, it is well known, is the chief trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company in their territory. As the crow flies it is 550 miles from St. Paul's (Min.), or abotit 050 miles by the regular route. The railway projected on the American side is to run from St. Paul's via Pembina. The road has been surveyed as far as Crow Wing, the head of navigation on the Mississippi, 150 miles above St. Paul's. Eight miles of it, from St. Paul's to St. Anthony, are in operation, and the track is laid many miles farther. It is completed, I believe, to Anoka, 32 miles from St. Paid's. It is graded to St. Cloud, 75 miles from that city; and this section of the track is in course of being laid. The directors hope to reach Crow Wing some time in Taper, p. 12. i)FFi'i('Li;rii:s via ca.vada to ukd kivkij. ;;:.l liiif,' iicrns.s nccpssai'll// f/te Pdcljii', >r iJic iS<i,s- st exert an 'ifie, that it iieruble ami Iver navij^a- und radiate { all unite.* iho district •oil to lied the; hitter MiniU'sotii, cued iron I twc'tii lit'd the Grand iincL'S. In . tlic inlia- nnect ■with loih idiiig post As the , or about ojected on IVnibina, Wing, the iles above Anthony, es farther. from St. that city; )eing Ldd. e time in lS(i(». The road i> known as the 'Si.l'aul's and Pacitlc Jfailway,' and is bring constructed, as ha-^ been stated, with tile view oi' securing a connection with the lhili->h line, which, judging by [)resent appearances, will he of tardier realisation than oiu* enterprising neighbours think for. From Crow Winu" it is inti'iided that the route >hall ])ass by Otter Tail f.ake to the junction of the Shayeiniai iiiver with the lied liiver on the lujrth. A 'city" calle(l George Town has been laid out at this j)oint, but its pro- gi'ess has been temporarily interrii[)ted by Indian troubles. The road will ibllow the west bank of Ued liiver to Tem- bina, and thence down the stream to Fort Garry. From that point the valley of the Assiniboine and llu! ' Divith"' of the Saskatchewan will be traversed. The pass cho>en in the Ivocky Mountains will probal)ly be either the Athabasca or the ^lyette. The chief dilliculty alleged to stand in the way of extending a railway from lied Iiiver to Canada is the rocky nature of the north shore of Lake Sujji'rior. It is admitted that the [)ortion of country close to the shore presents a rugged and barren appearance. Ihit gentlemen connected with the lumber trade, who have penetrated backward into the interior and westward from Tiake Temiskaininque, conciu* in testifying that a Hik! level hardwood country is found within easy distance well suited for a railway tiack. While hi'mly convinced that the railway scheme must become a reahty, it were Utopian to expect that it should take efl'ect soon, while the Uritish pubhc are so sce[)tical as to its utility, and the region to be crossed by it is so sparsely populated. But, for the })urpose of opening up the rich lands of the interior, and establishing direct connnimication between the parent coimtry and our north EMIGRANT ROUTE URGENT. Pacific colonies, an emigrant route is imperatively de- manded, and is as practicable as it is necessary. Several lines are available to Eed lliver, beyond which the course is plain. Tlie present commmiication with Fort Garry is by La Crosse, Wisconsin, the north-west terminus of railway transit in the United States, to St. Paul's ; 208 miles by liver ; thence by stage to George Town on the Eed Pivci-, 200 miles ; and from that point to Fort Garry, 480 miles by steamer — a total distance of 978 miles. The route from Toronto via Nipigon Bay and Lake of the Woods, 1.050 miles. The entire distance from the same starting ' CD point via Detroit, Grand Haven, Milwaukee, La Crosse, St. Paul, and George Town, is 1,G7C — there being a dif- ference in favour of the former route of G50 miles. From the most westerly British port on L.ake Superior to Eeci River settlement the distance is about 370 miles, and much of this is navigable. From the lower eud of the Lake of the Woods to the foot of Eaiiiy Lake is navigable in one reach of 150 miles; thence through Rainy Lake, &c. there is a navigable reach of 77 miles (though some say there is a break making 44 and 33 miles) ; thence there are 28 miles making fine navigable reaches, the Winnipeg River being nearly as large as the Ottawa. From the last 28 miles the distance is about 115 miles to Lake Superior. If the road were made through this tract the whole country would be easily accessible. There are navigable waters, how- ever, a great part of the last-named distance, though in smaller reaches. I have only given those on which steamers could be used whenever desirable.* But a route less circuitous and diflicult , than that by Winnipeg Eiver has been ascertained smce the above * lii'port of Select Cominiltee appointed by the Legislature of Canada to receive and collect evidence as to the rights of the Hudson's Bay Company, 1857, p. 20. FROM LAKE SUPERIOR TO LAKE OF THE WOODS. 353 ;atively dc- y. Several the course y is by La of railway 8 miles by Eed Eivoi', -, 480 miles The route the Woods, me starting La Crosse, being a dii- liles. xQ Superior ,370 miles, the foot of lies; thence of 77 miles 1 33 miles) ; reaches, the From the ke Superior, lole country waters, how- li in smaller 3rs could be an that by the above of Canada to 3ay Company, evidence was given. A line of about 90 miles in lenixth. i I and of a nearly uniform level, lying partly over open ])rairie and partly through wooded country, leads from Fort Garry to the north-west angle of the Lake of the Woods. The soil at the eastern end of Lake Plat, which is part of the Lake of the Woods, is inferior, but improves toward the western extremity. The former lake is part of a chain of navigation, offering but a single impediment in 1 GO miles, which consists of a sudden descent of 22 feet in die river in a short distance. With the view of opening fully the coimtry between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods, a variety of minor deviations in the route have been proposed, and among these a line between Nipigon Bay on Lake Superior and Fort Francis on llainy Lake. A prominent settler at lied River gives the distance between these two points at 105 miles of land transit, and 150 miles of water com- munication. The sum required for making roads on the portages between Lake Superior and Fort Garry has been variously estimated, according to the line proposed and the amount of improvement contemplated. Mr. M'D. Dawson, formerly head of the Woods and Forests branch of the Crown Land Department in Canada, and acknowledged to be one of the greatest autliorities in that colony on all questions pertaining to Hudson's Bay territory (to whom I am indebted for a valuable inter- view on this subject), states that : — To make an excellent waggon-road clear through from a British port on Lake Superior to Fort Garry on lied River — allowances for curvatures bringing the distance up to 400 miles — would take, say 95,000^. Such a road, at a cost of 240/. per mile, would immediately transfer the trade from St. Paul's to Lake Superior; would speedily pour a large population into the country, and would likewise become settled throughout its A A 354 NEW HUDSON S BAY COMPANY. entire length, with such occasional exceptions, no doubt, as usually occur in the average of road lines in the interior of Canada. . . . But it is not necessary to make even this outlay to attain the end desired. 260 miles are navigable on the route in three or, at most, four separate reaches, the data for which I have taken from the actual survey made in 1826 under the Treaty of Ghent. . . . 25,000^. to 30,000L expended on the 115 miles from Lake Superior to the first navigable reach referred to might at once be said to open up the country. Ill conversation with tlie Hon. Georfije Brown, President of tlie Legislative Council of Canada, last autumn, that gentleman informed me that 10,000/., voted by tlie Colo- nial Parliament in the previous session, would assm^edly be expended, without delay, in initiatimj the route through Canada to communicate with Eed Eiver.* Those anxious to see British Columbia and Vancouver Island colonised by emigrants from Great Britain hailed the reconstruction of the Hudson's Bay Company as likely to bring about a solution of the difficulties that had so long retarded the settlement of the interior, and to inaugurate a policy favourable to the realisation of hopes deferred respecting the formation of a highway from ocean to ocean. But the remarks of the governor of the company, Sir Edminid Head, at a meeting of the share- holders held on the 28th November last, are calculated to excite the enquiry whether the dependence we have been enc(^uraged to place on the liberal promises of the company has any solid foundation. In reply to tlie question of a shareholder as to the intention of the directors in reference to the opening up of the territory east of the Eocky Mountains, Sir Edmund, * If Iietl Ikivor and Saskatchewan could be at once erected into Crown colonies, and included in Mr. Brown's scheme of British North American Confederation, an impulse would be given to the l^miijnmt Overland Jioute that would ensure its immediate accomplishment. doubt, as interior of this outlay ble on the le data for 1820 under ided on the rahle reach intry. , President tumn, that J the Colo- isuredly be be through Vancouver tain liailed iiy as likely hat had so )r, and to )n of hopes iway from nor of the the share- calculated e "SVC have liscs of the as to the pening up Edmund, ir d into Crown jrtli American IvirlamI Route THEIR INFLUENCE UPON COLONISATION. 3^ K I 1 I with less official reticence than might have been expected on such an occasion, said : — They (the company) would do all they could to open the territory, and to cause roads to he made on such tkrms as thk coMrANY COULD AFFORD, hut it ivas uot intended by tJieni to sacrifice the fur trade. He asked. Were the proprietors pre- pared to sacrifice that trade produclnr/ a certain income, and to f/o headlonc) into another as a speculation ? * In the earlier part of the proceedings the governor said that — At the present moment the fur trade Avas not a ftiiling trade ; on the contrary, the proceeds had been increasing for some little time back. The actual proceeds of the fur trade in 18G 1 amounted to 210,509/. I9s.2d.; in 1862, to 216, 708/. 9s. 9(?. ; in 1863, to 222,729/. 15s. 5d. ; and in 1864, to 262,869/. 4s. id. (cheers). ... At that moment they had every reason to think that the imports of the present year (not yet nuide up) would consider- ably exceed those of the last. They woidd probably be 30,000/. or 40,000/. above the imports of the last year in value. It is not unnatural that the company should determine to pursue that course which they deem most compatible Avith their own interests. Only let not the friends of British Columbia, and of the territory intervening between Canada and that colony, any longer lkici»^i themselves that an association, the most thriving source of whose income consists of fur-trapping, will be so imselfish as, for l)ublic benefit, to ' kill the goose that lays the golden eggs.' The gratifying statistics of the last report submitted to the proprietors clearly indicate that the advance of civilisation west of Eed Eiver would more than ever prove antago- nistic to their staple interest. Dr. Eae was despatched by the directors last sinnmer to find a suitable route f()r laying down a line of tele- » T The Morninfj Star, November 20, IHiU. A A 2 35G THEIR PllOPOSKD TELKGRAPII. graph from Eed Eiver to the Pacific ; and at a dinner given in his honour in Victoria, he announced that the undertaking would be finished in less than two years, lie also gave it as his opinion that no serious obstacle to the formation of an overhuid waggon-road existed ; but the sole object of his mission was to arrange for the erec- tion of tk3 teler/raph. This cannot fail to confer some advantage upon our colonies in the ftir West. I do the company no injustice, however, in expressing the sus- picion that, while tliis great work would appear to be ])rompted by a wish to reclaim the wilderness, it may I'eally be designed for their own convenience. In seeming to conduce to the general good, the scheme may have the intended effect of simply keeping those interested in the extension of British North American colonisation in good humour. Still, looked at in the light of the course hitherto pursued by the company, the conclusion can Avith difficulty be resisted that the telegraph may but tend to strengthen the monopoly of the company, and keep the interior locked against the introduction of those facilities of emigrant transit essential to the speedy settle- ment of British Columbia and the sister colony. A telegraph is not the most urgent want of those colonies, important as it may be. They are already in communi- cation with the coast of the Atlantic by an uninterrupted telegraphic line from New York via San Francisco and Puget Sound ; * and if the well-being of our possessions in tlie Pacific, or of those east of the Eocky Mountains * Since writing' the above, the suhjoinod letter has come to hand : — To James Gnmble, Esq., San Francisco, Sept. 29, 18C4. Supt. Cal. State Telegraph Co., Victoria. I am sorry to have to inform you that the submarine cable intended for the line to Vancouver Island and British Columbia lies at the bottom of the ocean, oiF Cape Horn. The * Thebes ' foundered there last July. Two new WILL TIIEY ENCOURACiE A ROAD ? 357 t a dinner lI that tlic two years, obstacle to Listed; but 'or the erec- jnfer some I do tlie g the siis- pear to be iss, it may In seeming ly have the sted in the ion in good the course elusion can 1 may but Qpany, and 3n of those eedy settle- colony. A se colonies, communi- interrupted mcisco and possessions Mountains hand : — Sept. 29, 18G4. e intended for bottom of tho Iv. Two new were a primary consideration with tlic company, theif would have begun with makinr/ a road instead of a. tele- graph. J3ut the latter in their liands — and especially after the confession of Sir Edmund Head above-men- tioned — cannot be regarded as necessarily a precursor of the former. Our hope is that tlie negotiations now pending between the Company and tlie Imperial Govern- ment on the subject of their respective riglits and privi- leges may disappoint our w^orst apprehensions. As misrepresentations respecting the soil and climate of Central Britisli North America have been industriously circulated by certain parties interested in concealing the real cliaracter of the region, it is time to enquire whether that tract of country be fit for settlement. It was cus- tomary for the lieads of the Hudson's Bay Company, foi- very obvious reasons, to promote the impression, till within the last ten years, that the 49tli parallel of latitude was a sort of natural boundary between fertility and deso- lation on the western continent ; and when truth was at length to some extent disclosed on the matter, their state- ments were modified, but still leaned to the side of depreciating their territory as a place of settlement. Sir George Simpson, in his evidence before the Select Com- mittee of the House of Commons on tlie afiairs of the company in 1857, declares that the ground behind the cables will be immediately ordered, so that we may reasonably calculate upon receiving at least one of them in time to lay next spriiij^. Meantime you will plea.se carry out my instructions to push forward the construction of the line to Victoria and New Westminster the same as if the cable had arrived safely. In the matter of tho line to New Westminster, I advise you, if you find that route at all practicable, to run up from Seattle, on the east side of the Sound and Straits, so that a cable will not be indispensable to make that connection with a short cable across Fraser lliver, which can bo supplied from this oilice. The line will be completed at the earliest day practicable. II. N. Carpkxxkh, Tresidont. 358 REGION BETWEEN FORT WILLIAM AND FORT GARRY. immediate bank of Rainy Lake River, between 48° and 49° of latitude, was permanently frozen. Colonel Lefroy condemns both soil and climate of portions where agricul- ture is carried on with success. In the report of the meeting of the Hudson's Bay Company shareholders, from which I have already quoted, Mr. Dallas is made to say, that while in other respects the country hi the i)roposed route on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains is well adapted for settlement, ' the climate was most inhospitahle, and the country was not habitable except by Indians, Esquimaux, or like people.' Now, with regard to the interval between Fort William on Lake Superior, and Fort Garry, which has been repre- sented as so barren and unfriendly to settlement. Colonel Synge (who has been occupied with the study of British North America for twenty years) asserts that — It comprises large and compact tracts of great fertility, and of extreme beauty. These vary from about 20,000 to 200,000 acres in size. The strangely formidable character which has been given to the difficulties presented by this section of country has no doubt arisen from that having been asserted positively and absolutely which is only relatively and comparatively true. It does not present those marvellous facilities, and that entire absence of great engineering difficulties which, as far as I am aware, is to be met nowhere else on the whole surface of the earth to such an extent as on the prairies of the West. Sir G. Simpson and M'Kenzie both eulogise the quali- ties of the valley of the Kamenis Toquoiah, and the soil is known to be good toward the western extremity of the Lake of the Woods. Much rich and beautifully- wooded land is found near where the road would pass on White Mouth and Rat Rivers. As to the adaptability of Red River for colonisation, it were superfluous to speak. Every one of the ten thousand .\11RY. AGRICULTURAL WEALTH OF RED RIVER. 359 11 48° and [lel LeiVoy ire ai:(ricul- lort of the Iders, from ide to say, c [)roposed aiiis is well nhospitahle, y Indiatis, [jrt William been reprc- nit, Colonel Y of British •tility, and of to 200,000 which has in of country ed positively atively true. that entire ar as I am rface of the St. the qiiali- nd the soil mity of the ly-wooded on White )nisation, it n thousand settlers in that neighbourhood is a witness to its uncom- mon agricultural wealth. For 400 miles u[) the Assini- boine, to its junction with Moose lliver, there is notiiing to be seen but jirairie covered with long red grass. 'On the east, north, and south,' says Sir G. Simpson, ' there wjis not a mound or tree to vary the vast expanse (jf gnn-n sward ; while to the west were the gleaming bays of the Assiniboine, separated from each other by wooded points of considerable depth.' The yield of wheat in Ived liiver, as compared with the adjacent States of America, will demonstrate the productiveness of the district. In Min- nesota it stands at 20 bushels to the acre ; Wisconsin, at 14 ; Pennsylvania, at 15 ; Massachusetts, at IG ; and Ked lliver, at 40, The averajjre weiu!;ht in the latter settlement is from 64 to 07 lbs. per imperial bushel ; that of the best Illinois wheat is from 60 to 65 lbs. per buvshel. No obstacle exists to navigation between Fort Garry and the single rapid in the Saskatchewan. Capt. Pallisei" found a valuable water communication between the South Saskatchewan and Eed lliver. ' A good-sized boat,' says he, 'and even perhaps a sniidl steamer, might descend from the South Saskatchewan, ascend tlie West Qui- Appelle lliver, cross the Qui-Appelle lakes, and then descend the Qui-Appelle into lied lliver.' Wheat may be cultivated as far north as lat. 60°, and barley ripens in 62° on the M'Kenzie Eiver. M. Bourgeau, botanist to the Palliser Expedition, in a letter to Sir W. Hooker, writes thus in regard to the Saskatchewan district : — This district is much more adapted to the culture of the staple crops of temperate climates — wheat, rye, barley, oats, Sic. — than one would have been inclined to believe from its hijrh latitude. In effect, the few attempts at the culture of cereals already made in the vicinity of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts demonstrate, by their success, how easy it would be to SCO FKOM FORT GARllV TO SASKATCIIEWAX. o})tain products sufficiently abundant largely to rornunorate (ho efforts of the agriculturist. The prairies oflfer natural pasturage as favourable for the maintenance of numcrons herds as if th(!y had been artificially created. The construction of houses for habitation and for pioneer developtnent would itivolve but little expense, because in many parts of the country it would be easy to find clay for bricks, and more particularly near Battle Iviver. The other parts most favourable for cultivation would be in the neigljbourhood, and also along the south of North Sashitcheirtui. In the latter district extend rich and vast prairies, interspersed with woods and forests, where thickwood plants furnish excellent pasturage for d- jstic animals.* Mr. Dallas, too, whose interest would not be likely to bias liim in favour of the coh^nisation of the country, felt obliged, with his characteristic candour, to acknowledge at the meeting above referred to, that ' the whole of tlie country was more or less eminently adapted for settle- ment, and was exceedingly healtliy. About two years ago he rode through the country, and saw there horses and cattle as fat as any on the pastures of England, and those cattle spent the winter out, without a morsel of hay.' IIow this statement can be reconciled with what has been already quoted in regard to the inhospitable character of the region, it is difficult to imagine. Let us hope that the latter allusion iri the report is inaccurate. But the re- sources of the Saskatchewan are not confined to agricul- ture. I believe the mineral deposits of the country to be boundless. A vast coal formation has been traced from the 49th parallel far beyond the 60th, running north and south, parallel with the Eocky Mountains ; and as rich gold diggings have attracted throngs of miners to Pike's Peak and elsewhere on the east side of that mountain chain in American territory, so I am confident that large numbers will be induced, when communication with * Explorations by Captain Palliser, p. 2o0. GOLD JUNKS OF SASKATCJIKWAX. ;]Gi iin orate tiip 1 pasturaf^e 8 UH if tht^y liouses for e Init little nld be easy iittle Iviver. (1 be in the k<((cheir((,u. nterspersed lib excellent 3 likely to imtiy, felt knowledge lole of tlie for settle- two years ere horses :^laiul, and icl of hay.' t has been laracter of )c that the it the re- aj^ricul- itry to be iced from north and d as rich 1 to Pike's mountain chat large ion witli Canada is opened, to mine on the Saskatchewan. I have l)een told by sevei'al ])i'rsons who have; crossed the conti- nent on the Ih'itish side that they had ' prospected ' suc- cessfully for the precious metal on many streams. Already, in spite of defective means of transit, adventurous spirits are diopping into the auriferous locality. For tbe past two years the 8aHkatchewan mines liave been worked with good results. CT(jld has been discovered all along that river, but not exclusively there. The liow, Ked Deer, Peace, and Athal)asca Kivera liave also been tested, and found to yield from »<i to $6 per day per man. Indeed, every stream loading from the Kocky Moimtains contains gold in greater or less degree; and this is what might be expected a priori. The ore is primarily in the mountains ; and there is no reason ichi/ it should not he as ahundant on the eastern as on the tcestern slope. The gold found on Fraser River was of a very fine grain near its mouth, but gradually became coarser as the mountains were approached, clearly showing that the gold must have been washed from the rocky ridge, and by wear and tear in its course to the ocean was made fine. The case is the same with the auriferous streams on the eastern slope. On the Saskatchewan, a few miles north of Edmonton, miners make easily from ^^(5 to ^^10 per day, and the Ked Kiver ' Nor'-Wester ' (newspaper) mentions one instance of a man making from ^15 to ^25 per day.* At no distant period the resistless influence of the dis- coveries east and west of the liocky Mountains in British territory will tempt emigrants from Eiu'ope and the Atlantic provinces westward ; and ere many years pass over, emigration may set in, and settlements rise up on the banks of the streams connecting the western with the eastern parts of the continent, at a rate defying all the barriers that a monopolising association can set up, and siu'passing the expectations of the most sanguine. A steamer above the rapid in the Saskatchewan, pre- * From the Canadian Xcws for Xovcinbcr, 18G-1. 3G2 TASSKS IN THE UOCKY MOUNTAINS. viou.siy indicatod, mul a very short portii;^;^, will open the navij^'Mtion uf that river to Aetoii or lioeky ^louutaiii House. We liavc seen that depressions in the passes of the mountains are nuieh greater north of 40° lat. than on the American side. These passes are also so numerous and well distributed as to leave us at no loss in enterinj,' what- ever portion of British Columbia, from north to south, we may desire. The Itranch expedition into the Rocky Mountains . . . proved very satisfactory, and estahlished the fact that several passes across these mountains are available for horses, and by which, with a reasonable outlay, a road could be made connecting the Kootanie and Cohunbia Valleys with the plains of the Saskat- chewan. These passes are four in number ; the Kananaskis * Pass, the Vermillion f Pass, the British Kootanie Pass, and the Kicking Horse Pass. All these passes traverse the watershed of the continent within British territory. Besides these, there are three lesser passes connecting the waters of a transverse water- shed, between the head waters of the Kootanie and those of the Columbia. A pass also was subsequently traversed by Dr. Hector between the head waters of the North and South Sas- katchewan. The passes between the Kootanie and Columbia Kivers are the Lake Pass and the Beaver Foot Pass, and that from the head waters of the North to those of the South Sas- katchewan is called the Little P^ork Pass. ... Of all the passes traversed by our expedition, the most favourable and inexpensive, to render available for wheel conveyances, would appear to be the Vermillion Pass, as the ascent along it to the height of land is the most gradual of them all.| About three years after the explorations here recorded were made, another pass attracted attention as connecting to best advantage with the chief gold mines of British * Extreme heiglit, 5,985 feet. + Extreme height, 4,944 feet. X I'aUiser's Explorations in British North America, p. 14. TIIK LKATIIIMl I'ASS. op n :y Muuiitaiii asses of tlic tlmn on tliu mu'vous jiud itcring wliat- 'tli to soutli, ns . . . proved several passes and by which, Bonnecting the af the Saskat- I Kananaskis * ; Pass, and the 16 watershed of ;hese, there are msverse water- ad those of the rersed by Dr. ud South Sas- and Columbia Pass, and that he South Sas- f all the passes id inexpensive, i appear to l)e height of land lere recorded IS connecting ics of British rht, 4,944 feet. i CoUnnhjji, in Cariboo. The ' liCatiier,' ' Myette,' or ' .Fas- per'Passluid formerly been used l)y the Hudson's JJay Company as a |)()rtage from the Athabasca Uiver to tlie great artery of Hritisii Colund)ia. It was known as the 'old Columbia trail,' but had long been abandoned on account of the frequ(Mit casualties which occurred in tlie descent of the Fraser from tliat point. It lies in hit. 54°. In '02 this pass was crossed by several parties, eml)ra('ing more than 200 persons in all. One of these com|)anies consisted of 140 men, 1 woman, and 3 children, witli loO oxen and 70 horses. Viscount Milton and friends, whose adventures were narrated last November before the lloyal Geographical Society, crossed in '03. From the lips of many of these immigrants have I been interested in listening to the account of their journey, all of them concurring in the practicability of this pass for road or railway. It exhibits the two important features of gradual ascent and the least altitude of any ]iasses yet found, being 400 or 500 feet lower than the Vermillion, which stands next in respect to depression, and is 1,000 feet lower than any of the other passes. The remark- able facilities of ascent in the Leather Pass are evident from the following facts : — Fort Edmonton, on the river Saskatchewan (in 11 o° 49' west long, and 53° 20' north lat.), is 2,728 feet above sea level. Jasper House is 400 miles from Edmonton. To the height of the pass, 4,500 feet above sea level, is from 100 to 150 miles more, with a further ascent of 822 feet in that distance. This i>ives a clear ascent of from to 9 feet in a mile, or a nwdn clear ascent of from 3^- to o]^feet in the whole distance from Fort Edmonton* There is no part of British Columbia that is not acces- • Col. Syngc. r.o 1 KXnilllKNCK OK VISCOUNT MlLTo.V. s\\)\v by tlic aid of llicsi.' passes, 'i'lic Vcniiillion leads I'roin the South Saskatchewan to the Cohiiiihia ; the Kaina- iiaskis tVoin the same l)raiich of the I'oi'iner rivei' to the; K'ootaiiie River; the Kickiiii!; Horse IVoin the same river to the Cohim'oia; the]\ld\i'ii/ie Pass from the IVacc! liiver to the Fiaser; and the Leathei' into tlie Cariboo (h^tiict. Viscount Milton and Mi'. Cheadle, who crossed when tliu streams were grifatly swollen, unitedly describe their exjK'rience in theso words : — Findint,' that tiio soasou was tdo far advanced to allow of our t'rossin<^ tlio mountains Ix'foro winter, we travelled on an far as Fort Carlton, on the nortii branch of the Saskatchewan, and, turninfjf almost due north for about seventy miles, l)nilt a rou;^'li log Init at a beautiful place called l/.i lielle Prairie, and went into winter quarters. We spent our time in huntin<if and trap- ping, and served an apprenticeship in liardsliip and privation, most useful to us in om* .sul)se(|uent dif^culties. When the thaw set in at the beginning of April, we again started westward al(»ng the Nortli Saskatchewan by Fort Pitt to E(bnonton. . . . Here we made our final preparations for crossing the mountains. . . . On the 3r(l of .Fune we left Edmonton with a train of twelve horses, six of them packed with our baggage, pemmican and flour. . . . From Lake St. Ann's, 50 miles beyond Edmonton, to Jasper House, at the foot of the mountains, the forest is almost unbroken. Having forded the Pembina Piver, we reached the M'Leod on June 16. . . . After striking the Atha- basca River, we followed its right bank until, arriving opposite Jasper House, we were now fairly in the Rocky Mountains ; and high up a mountain side, whither the trail led us, we had one of the most magnificent views it was ever our fortune to behold. Hundreds of feet below rushed the torrent of the A^^habasca, now swollen to its height, bearing along great pine trees like straws in the powerful current ; around us on every side huge snow-capped mountains towered up with strange fantastic peaks ; in the valley beneath, the little wiiite building surrounded by a perfect garden of wild flowers of the most brilliant and varied KAILWAY THUonill TIIK MOUNTAINS KASV. iiiHii»ii I('!i(l^ ; the Kaina- rivcr to \\\v. J .«miu' riviT IV'Mcc liivc'f )oo (li^lrict. •osscd when i8ciibi; tlit'ir I allow of our 1 oil as fur as cliowaii, and, Iniilt a roujfh lie, and wc!nt \v^ and trap- nd privation, riien the thaw estward alon;^' n. . . . Hero untains. . . . lin of twelve inmican and d Edmonton, the forest is I Kiver, we ng the Atha- nwQ opposite )nntains ; and , we had one ne to behold. e A*^habasca, ne trees like sry side huge itastie peaks ; r rounded by it and varied I colours, edged along the inouiitain-slopcs byllM' brightest green. Crossing the Athal»asca by raft, wc; now followed the Myette, whicli stream we were eoinpelled to travi-rse no less than six times. Swollen like the Athabasca, tlie waters raged and boiled round the great roeks and boulders which Li s<.*t its bed. . . . Leaving the iMyette, we eame upon several .small strf^ams nni- ning to the west, and thus learned that we \isid uucuM.'^rioMsly passed the height of land, and shortly after struck thf Fraser a little al>ove its expansion into ."Moose Lnke , . . We reiirhe<l Tete Jaiines' Cache, on the west side of the ni<Mi<ifains, on .Fuly 17; Imt altluaigh we had crossed the main ridge, we were still siu'rounded by snow-dad mountains, which stretche'd away as far as tlw eye could reach in every direction. . . . \N'e now crossed the Fraser and struck almost due south, following the emigrants' trail of the preceding siuniner. . . . In six days after leaving the ('ache we eame to the junction of the tw(» main branches of the North Thompson. From this de.st'ri[)tiou it will be seen that the passiioe of the Uoeky Mouiilains is the only work of any moment that requires to be executed west of Fort Garry. Tluxse soarin<:^ and snow-eapped heights are no longer invested with terrors, and eveiy one must be satis- fied that especially the Vermillion Tass, with a descent to the Kootanie iiiver of but 1 in 13.5, and the Leather Fass with an ascent equally impcrcejjtible, couhl easily be i-endered available lor regular communication, since both liave been traversed by wagoc)iis in their })resent roadless condition. Engineering skill has already overcome phy- sical obstacles of infinitely greater magnitude in cutting- paths through the Alleghaines in the United States, the Swmmering heights in Austria, and tlie Bhore Ghauts in India. The railway from Kankan to the Deccan through the List-named mountains had to contend witli an eleva- tion, in a very short distance, from a base 11)0 feet to an altitude 2,027 feet, with a grad'cnt of 1 in 48. Twelve 3G6 STRIDES OF RUSSIA ON THE PACIFIC. tunnels were formed equal to 2,535 yards ; also eight viaducts, eighteen bridges, and eighteen culverts, at a cost of 41,118/. per mile, making a total of 597,222/.* The distance from Lake Superior to Cariboo is 1,874 miles, and from Edmonton 694. From Jasper House to Tete Jaunes' Cache at the head of the Fraser is 144 miles, and thence to Cariboo about 150 miles. From Cariboo to the head of navigation connecting with the Gulf of Georgia the distance is 300 or 400 miles, according to the route adopted — if from Eichfield via Quesnelle mouth to Bentinck Arm or Bute Inlet it is shorter ; if via Ques- nelle mouth to Yale it is longer.f In comparison with the difficulties successfully grap- pled with by Eussia in opening internal communications through her sparsely populated and immensely more inhos- pitable territory, and in extending her trade with China through the interior of Asia — those attaching to oiu' overland enterprise are of the most Lilliputian character. That Great Northern Pow^r, whose aggressive policy was I'cgarded by Napoleon I. with more alarm than that of any other single European country, has recently established herself in rapidly augmenting maritime strength on the banks of the Amoor Eiver, in the vicinity of China and Jai)an. She alone of all European nations has possessions extending in unbroken continuity from the Baltic to the Pacific, and all her energies are bent to the gigantic task of completing clear and easy transit from her Asiatic shoi'cs via Siberia to St. Petersburg. Ivussia is active, moreover, in building a line of tele- graph over this route, which cannot now be far from the mouth of the Amoor. I heard of their havincf reached Irkoutsk nearly two years since. The American lines * Col. Svnge. t The quickest of all these routes is decidedly the one h\ Bute Inlet. DESIGNS OF NAPOLEON IN MEXICO. 3G7 ; also eight rts, at a cost 221* )oo is 1,874 er House to is 144 miles, oiri Cariboo the Gulf of )rding to the nelle mcnitli if via Ques- ssfully grap- imunications 7 more inhos- ; with Cliina hing to oiu- m character, ^e policy was n that of any established ugth on the f China and s possessions Baltic to the nsjantic task her Asiatic line of tele- ar from the ins reached lerican lines Bute Inlet. m have a I'epresentative in Eussia who has been specially en- gaged there for several years in securing certain ]>rivileges. From the Amoor the Eussian line will be extended with as much expedition as possible to Sitka, the i)ort of the Eussian fur-hunting company in Eussian America. When visiting the manager of the American Tele- graphic Company, in Montreal, lately, he informed me that he had been called on that day by a gentleman wlio was about to proceed to the West Coast of America, under the direction of that company, for the purpose of survey- ing tlie route for the line which ere long is to connect Sitka wdth Victoria. Eussia has granted our go-a-head neighbours the exclusive right of way from the mouth of Sitka harbour, and the additional privilege, in perpetuity, of establishing posts at pleasure anywhere in Eussian territory.* I saw no less than five Eussian sliijis of war in Panama Bay, bound for the possessions of the Czar in the Nortli Pacific, and, as a further proof of the importance he attaches to national interests in that part of world, a prince about the same time was sent as Governor of Sitka. Chevalier, too, in his recent volume on Mexico, helps us to unravel the secret of Napoleon Ill's conquest of that country. The erection of a barrier against the ap- plication of the Munro doctrine by the United States, and tlie development of the boundless resources of Mexico, are but subordinate acts in the great drama to be i)layed there under French appointment. The acute eye of the * When this line has been carried from Sitka to Victoria, tlie latter will ultimately become a telefrrapliic centre as well as the meeting'-point of many lines of conveyance for freight and passengers. When the Atlantic cablt; is laid, and a telegraph put through from that ocean to the Pacific, in IJritifh territory, and when the Russian line shall have been completed, Victoria will be in communication with Western Europe from the east and from the west. That city is already, or very soon about to be, as has been stated, connected with tliH Atlantic i-eaboard by the line vid Puyet Sound and San Francisco. 368 CLIMATE OF PROPOSED PwOUTE. Emperor cannot fail to discern that the marvels of com- merce and civilisation by whicli so high a degree of lustre has been shed on the European coasts of the xitlantic are about to be repeated with probably tenfold greater bril- liance on the American shores of the Pacific. He has deeply pondered the history of eastern trade, now flow- ing ea>itward as in the past it has done only westward. He sees the imperative necessity oi possessing an uninter- rupted route over soil of wliich he has absolute command. Mexico affords this desired facility, stretching as it does from ocean to ocean. A railway is in progress from Vera Cruz in the Gulf of Mexico, and now rai)idly approaches the city of Mexico. Thence it is destined to be carried west- ward to Acapulco, tlie ancient port for Spanish trade witli Manilla on the one hand and Spain on the other. From this centre he has resolved there shall be lines of French steamers plying to China, Japan, the Sandwich Islands, and tlie more fertile portions of Southern Polynesia. Will England, who through the ignorance and neglect of her former rulers has already thrown away much rich terri- tory on that North West coast, and who still has so much at stake in the Pacific, idly stand by and witness rival European Powers multiplying means of communication with that ocean and busily laying foundations of future empires ? will she be satisfied to follow that penny-wise policy which grudges expenditure in forming a British North American route that will at once bring ample financial compensation and bind her possessions all round tlie northern hemisphere in real unity ? As erroneous impressions have obtained in regard to the climate of the ijroposed emigrant iviite, I invite the fittention of tlie reader to the observations on temperature, in tlie chapter on Agriculture in Vancouver Island, in con- nection with a fcAv additional remarks now to be submitted on the subject. CLIMATE OF THE INTKRIOH. 8()1) vels of com- ^ree of lustre Atlantic are greater bril- fic. He has lC, now flow- ly westward, y an uninter- te command. (T as it does ;ss from Vera 3proaclies the carried west- sh trade with )ther. From les of French 1 Islands, and mesia. Will leglect of her ch rich terri- has so much witness rival mmunication ns of future It penny-wise Ing a British |bring ample )ns all round m ]'egard to I invite the [temperature, [land, in con- be submitted Western parts of Europe and Asia are warmer than are the eastern sections of those continents situated in the same parallels of latitude — tlie west having an ocean to the windward of it, moderating the prevailing winds, which are westerly. The same cause operates to produce corresponding effects on tlie continent of America — only in a greater degree ; tlie ocean to tlie windward of it being larger and Avarmer than that which washes its eastern shores. The isothermal line, therefore, runs ftuther north on the west coast of America than on the east. That line, starting from New York and drawn across the continent, would pass through Lake Winnipeg to Fort Simpson, wliicli is ] ,000 miles north of the commercial capital of the United States. The northern shore of Lake Huron enjoys the mean summer temperature of Bordeaux, in the soutli of France (70° Falir.), while Cumberland House, in kit. 54° long. 102°, on the Saskatchewan, exceeds in this respect Brussels and Paris. Even supposing that equal parallels of latitude should coincide with equal lines of mean temperature all round the globe — which we do not find to be the case — what is there to prevent regions as high as the GOth parallel in the western hemispheix} being as productive as those of the same latitude and altitude in the eastern ? That parallel passes through Christiana in Norway, to the north of Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, and through St. Petersburg. But on the principle ju.-t aflirmed, places in America corresponding in altitude to those in Europe which I have specified, ought to prove more genial as homes of civilisation. One of the witnesses before the Committee of the House of Commons in '57, stated that on the 1st of May the Saskatchewan country was free from snow, and the river n B 370 WHO IS TO MAKE THE ROAD? full of water ; and Capt. Palliser records that on January 9, 1858, there was little or no snow on the ground from Edmonton to Eocky Mountain House. I trust the overwhelming importance of the topic dis- cussed in this part of the volume will be deemed a sufH- cient justification of the length to which these statements have extended. Desire to promote and facilitate trade with the East has been shown to have been the incentive to exploration among ancient nations and the origin of most maritime discoveries in more modern times. So far from rivalry for the possession of this rich prize abating, civilised peoples of our day are animated by more spirited emulation, and devising more vigorous measures than ever for its attainment. Attempts to find a northern sea pas- sajije to the attractive shores of the East — lon<? and doggedly persisted in — have been finally abandoned ; and the application of steam to land-transit and of electricity to the transmission of messages has revolutionised our ideas of the value attaching; to the fertile solitudes between Canada and the Eocky Mountains. Science, commerce, and political economy have arrived at signal unanimity respecting that territory as affording the most pleasant and expeditious route to China and Australia, combining also the marked convenience of its running wholly through British dominions. One question remains. To whom are we to look for doing this work ? Canada can only be expected to per- form that part which goes to her western boundar}^ Her claim to the regions beyond is not likely to be again pressed, on the ground of ancient French title, and, if j)rcssed, certain never to be acknowledged. Whether the enterprise is carried through by England, the Hudson's Bay Company, or private capitalists under con- cessions and privileges granted by the Imperial Govern- DEBATE IN PAULlAMExNT. o< 71 on January :ound from 3 topic dis- med a sufH- statements litate trade lie incentive he origin of aes. So far ize abating, lore spirited cs than ever srn sea pas- — long and idoned ; and f electricity ionised our les between commerce, unanimity )leasant and jining also lly through o look for cted to per- boundary. to be again tie, and, if Whether gland, the under con- ial Govern- ment or by t]ie company, depends upon tlie result of negotiations now in progress between the latter and the Ibrmer. It is unnecessary here to enter upon the perplexed and interminable enquiry whether the possessory rights of the company rest on valid grounds, though evidence is before me which goes far to prove their title invalid. Sliould the Crown, however, refrain from enforcing its right to absolute ownership of tlie intermediate territory between Lake Superior and the Eocky Mountains, it is at least in a position to effect some compromise with the company, wliereby the rigour of their claims shall be modified and the accomplishment of tlie undertaking secured. I cannot believe that the present able Secretary of State for the Colonies will ])ermit the tangled relations between the company and the Iin[)erial Government to remain any longer unadjusted. NOTE. In the House of Commons, June 30, 18G4, on a motion to go into Committee of Supjily — Mr. A. Mills rose to call attention to the territories at present occupied by the Hudson's Bay Company. He said these terri- tories were granted to the company by a charter of Charles If. in 1670. By the treattj of Rijsvj'icl', hi 1690, It vjhh admitted that these territories beloiKjed to France. In 1713 the treat// of Utrecht admitted that three-fourtlts belont/ed to France; and 'it teas not until ilte treaty of Paris in 1763 that they vere pretended to he the property of the Crown of Enrjland. All legal authorities, however, held that whatever defects there might be in the charter of the company, they had been cured by prescription during 200 years, and supported by numerous Acts of Parliament. There was a large tract of country em- bracing 60,000 or 70,000 square miles, and which was admitted by all testimony to he most fertile land, which it would be well D II 2 372 SriiEfll OF MU. A. MILLS. to make the subject of enquiry. That question was now prac- tically shut up, and the question was how it was to be opened. It would be admitted by all that tlie connection of the Atlantic and Pacific by a chain of settlements would be of advantage, and that an opening for the China trade through British terri- tory would be a matter of great importance. No doubt it would be of practical importance to fuse into a federal union all the British territories in North America. The colony of Canada liad expressed its readiness to take upon itself a certain amoimt of the financial responsibihty of opening up this district. The colony of Canada, however, required a stipulation that the boundary of Canada should be defined. The Hudson's Bay Company last year appeared under new auspices ; but they had not lost their old character, and appeared to be as much opposed as ever to colonisation and civilisation. The Hudson's Bay Company said they would not go before any tribunal ; they would not open the question of boundary ; they would stand upon their rights, and those rights they were prepared to up- bold. The question was, would Imperial England allow any (jbstruction of that kind ? The reply of Mr. Dallas, the chief officer of the Hudson's Bay Company in their territory, to this proposal of the colony of Canada was, that its adoption would interfere with the trade of the company. He did not apprehend that the right honourable gentleman the Secretary for the Colonies would refuse to afford facilities for the settlement of the question ; but he wanted him to state that no obstruction would be offered on the part of the Grovernment, if the colony of Canada wished to raise this question as between themselves and the Hudson's Bay Company. There were, no doubt, good reasons, in a financial point of view, why Great Britain shouhl not undertake to establish a new colony in North America. . . . He would not say whether the Red River settlement should be ultimately annexed to British Columbia or to Canada, but be wished to call the attention of the Colonial Secretary to the immense importance of facilitating a union between all our colonies in North America from the Atlantic to the Pacific, which union the colonies themselves desired to see accomplished. He believed that for the furtherance of English interests at that ] VI i:\VS OF .MU. WATKIX AND Mil. CARDWELL. .) — i> as now prac- ;o be opened, tlve Atlantic )f advantage, British teiri- oubt it would mion all the ly of Canada rtain amount listrict. The ion that the ludson's Bay but they had nuch opposed Hudson's Bay ribunal; they f would stand repaied to up- ind allow any dlas, the chief •ritory, to this doption would not apprehend :etary for the settlement of no obstruction if the colony en themselves o doubt, good Britain should America. . . . ement should ,0 Canada, but ecretary to the itween all our to the Pacific, accomplished, iterests at that time, when those vast territories would become self-supporting and independent of the mother-country, the wisest policy the Government could adopt was to promote that union. Mr. Watkin said, what Canada proposed was simply to pay part of the expense of connecting the Atlantic and the Pacific by means of telegraphic and postal communication. It wns Canada that put impediments in the way of the settlement of this question of the Hudson's Bay Company territory. Was it not extraordinary that in these days a private company should be allowed to hold, under a charter of Charles II., so immense a territory, and have the power almost of levying war, and cer- tainly of defending by military force the frontiers of that terri- tory ? Unless Her ^Majesty's Government were prepared to take immediate steps in reference to this question, nothing in the world could prevent that which might l)e hereafter a thriving and valuable British colony from becoming a mere American settlement. Mr. Cardwell would not go into the past history of the Hudson's Bay Company, because it was almost as vast as their territory. He would commence by referring to the committee that took place in 1857, and of AVhich the hon. gentleman was a member. That committee, noticing the desire which existed for a settlement respecting this territory, recommended that an offer should be made to Canada that if she thought proper she might become the possessor of the territory, if she would incur the expense of annexing it. Immediately after the report of the committee, the then Secretary of State for the Colonies made proposals to Canada and to the Hudson's Bay Company. Acting under the advice of the law officers of the Crown, he felt that it was wholly impossible for him to dispute the validity of a charter that had existed for centuries ; but he made to the company and to Canada that other proposal which the hon. gentleman suggested we should make, viz., that the question of the boundaries of Canada should be referred to the decision of tlie Judicial Committee of the Privy Council. To that propos.al the company were willing to assent, but Canada, he believed, declined to assent. (Hear.) The demand of Canada was that ;hc validity of the charter should be referred to the Judicial 374 MR. LYALLS DKFENCE OF Till;: COMrANY. Coiiunillce, juul the company most naturally objected to that course. The Colonial Secretary then gave notice that he sliould open new negotiations. In 18()2 a negotiation was opened by the late Colonial Secretary with a private comjjany to connect the Pacific with the Atlantic by telegraphic communication and post roads. Afterwards the Hudson's Bay Company united with that private company, and negotiations were continued for a surrender of the whole territories of the company to the Crown. Those negotiations ol>tained the consent of that House, and a proposal was arrived at that the Hudson's Bay Company should be compensated from the proceeds of the sale of lands. The details of that proposal, however, were not agreed to; and at that point he (Mr. Cardwell) succeeded to his present oflHce. The hon. gentleman, as he understood, pointed out that it was the duty of the Colonial Office to give Canada every opportunity for entering into this negotiation ; but the hon. gentleman would see that that course had been anticipated. His (jNIr. Cardwell's) notice in the course of his communications was that, if a colony was to be founded in the territory referred to, some pro- vision should be made for its expenses towards the maintenance of good government and its future settlement. That provision must be made either by the companj^, by the colony of Canada, or by the Imperial exchequer. Having negotiated with the company for the surrender of its interests to the Crown, he had also renewed to the colony of Canada the proposal made on the recommendation of the committee of 1857, and invited it, in case it should refuse the responsibility offered, to inform the Crown what were its views as to the western boundary, so that the question might be settled, and the territory put in a fair way of government and settlement. Having thus succinctly, as he hoped, put the matter before the House, he should have great pleasure in laying the papers on the table as soon as they were ready. Mr. Lyall assured the hon. gentleman that he was mistaken in supposing that the Hudson's Bay Company had sent out telegraphic wires for the purpose of connecting Minnesota with the Red River, and thereby increasing the influence of the United States in the Hudson's Bay territory. The directors I NY. iji:makks ur colonel sykks. Gctcd to iliat hut he filiould ris opened by ny to connect iinication and ly united with atiniied for a to the Crown. House, and a ntipany should F lands. Tiio d to; and at present office. it that it was •y opportunity itleman would ilr. Card well's) as that, if a to, some pro- 3 maintenance rhat provision ny of Canada, ed with the rown, he had made on the invited it, in inform the ndary, so that put in a fair succinctly, as should have 3 soon as they was mistaken had sent out innesota with lence of the The directors :o who came into office a year a^o took into consideration the sub- ject of communication between Columbia and Canada in associ- ation with the (piestion of commimicati(m with China, and they had sent out wires for that purpose. IJut if Canada were not prepared to do lier part in overcoming the natural difficulties of the country between her and the Ked Kiver settlement, it would 1)6 necessary for the company to connect with Minnesota, from which they were only distant about fifty miles. With respect to the new government of the company, tiiey were by no means disposed to retard colonisation ; tliey waited, however, for roads and other communications ; and it was felt, moreover, that greater powers must be obtained by the company in order to establish good order in the settlement. The whole subject was under the consideration of the Colonial Office, and he trusted that an extended colonisation of a great territory would be pro- moted. Colonel Sykes urged the great importance of communicating with Columbia. We could not get there at all except by Panama and Cape Horn. So that Columbia were connected with Canada, what mattered it whether the communication were eff'ected by the colony of Canada or by an independent com- pany ? The result would be that direct communication with China would be established. The undertaking was one of great importance, and if it could be effected by a little pressure on the Hudson's Bay Company, it wonld be politic for the Govern- ment to exercise it. The hon. gentleman who brought the question forward was entitled to the thanks of the House for so doing. Memorial of tJie People of Red River Settleraent to the British and Canadian Governments. The people of the Red River settlement hereby desire briefly to set forth their views and wishes in reference to the proposed opening up of the road from Canada to British Columbiy through the Red River and Saskatchewan region, and the establishing of a telegraphic line along the same. The people of Red River have long since earnestly desired to 37G iMKMORIAI. OF llED lllVKR SKTTLKRS see tlie Tjfikc tSiiperior route opened up for coniincriH! and cniijjfratiou, and they rejoice to liear of tlie ]»ropo.sal <o open up a road and establish a line of telegraphic comniunication tlirouj^h the interior to liritish C!oluml)ia entirely within liritish terri- tory, believing that such works would greatly benefit this country, while subserving at the same time both Canadian and Imperial interests. . . . It is true that this route, for reasons which need not here be alluded to, has of late years been neglected ; yet, when the fact is generally known that this was the regular route by which the North-West Fur Company imported and exported heavy cargoes for more than a quarter of a century, and which the Hudson's I Jay Company have used more or less for three-quarters of a century, it must be granted that the natural difficulties cannot be so great as they are commonly reported to be. We, the people of this settlement, are so anxious to have a proper outlet in this direction, that we .are quite prepared our- selves to undertake at our own expense the opening of a road from this settlement to Lake of the Woods, a distance of 90 or 100 miles, if England or Canada will guarantee tbe opening of the section from liake of the Woods to Lake Superior. From our intimate knowledge of the country lying between this place and the Rocky Mountains, we consider the project of a road in that direction perfectly practicable, at a comparatively small outlay. At all times, during the summer season, loaded carts go from this place to Carlton, Fort Pitt, and Edmonton, on the Upper Saskatchewan ; and last summer a party of Canadians, about 200 in number [en route to British Columbia), passed over the same road, and went with their vehicles to the very base of the Rocky Mountains ; clearly showing that along the whole way there are, even at present, no insuperable ob- stacles to the passage of carts and waggons. . . . The whole country througli which the proposed road would run, almost from Lake Superior to the Rocky Mountains, is remarkably level. The surface of this vast region is, generally speaking, like the ocean surface in a calm ; and, besides being so remarkably level, it is, for the most part, free from those heavy forests which, in Canada and elsewhere, cause such delay TO BRITISH AND CANADIAN (ioVKUNMHNTS. •>i t mnierc'c and il to open lip itiun through I British terri- lit'iicfit tlii.s .'auuclian uiul I not liore be vlien tbe fact by which tlie leavy cargoes :lie Hudson's quarters of a ulties cannot ouH to have a irepared our- ling of a road xnce of 90 or le opening of ior. y^ing between he project of omparatively eason, loaded i Edmonton, * a party of ;h Columbia), ihicles to the g that along uperable ob- • road would fountains, is is, generally )esides being from those se such delay and expense in roadniaking. We believe a railway coiihl b«' here laid at a cheaper rate tluiii in iiiost countries. Canada W(»uld derive great benefit from the overland ciirryiiig- trade, which would s|tring up iinmediately on the establishiueiit of this route, and the constiintly-growiiig traffic of this district and liritish Coluinbia would thereaft<;r be an ever-increasing source of profit. . . . This is the most natural highway by which commerce and general business with the Kast could be carried on ; it would be also the most expeditious. And, as a result of such com- merce and traffic along this route, Central Ibitish America would rapidly fill up with an industrious loyal people; and thus from Vancouver Island to Nova Scotia, Great Ibitain would have an unbroken series of cohmies, a grand confederation of loyal and flourishing provinces, skirting the whole United States frontier, and com.manding at once the Atlantic and Pacitic. In this connection we feel hound to observe that American influence is rapidly gaining groinid liere ; and if action is long delayed very unpleasant complications may arise. Thus, both politically and commercially, the opening up of this country, and the making through it a national highway, would immensely sub- serve Imperial interests, and contribute to the stability and glorious prestige of the British empire. These views the people of Ked Kiver desire most respectfully to present for the consideration of the British and Canadian Governments, and they earnestly hope that this year may witness the formal commencement of operations with a view to a telegraphic line, and a road from Lake Superior to this settlement, if not through the whole extent of country from Canada to British Columbia, (Signed) James Ross, Cliairnian of rublic Meetings. I»ed River Settlement, January 21, 1863. CIIAPTKU XV. KOCIKTY IN VAXCOUVKR ISLAND AND nUlTISlI COIA'MniA. Vniit'lii'M of iJaro vcpn'scnlcd in A'ictoria — TH('liiiili'.s CliiHsification ol" hmunn JIvbrids — Tlio ultiiimtp Eift'ct of prcMont liptoropnnooiis Mixtiiro of 'l\i«'.s upon till) ClKiriictir of tilt! Vopiilatioii— Civil Disiibilitics ini- ])o8(hI on Xc^Toi'M mill ('hinnnicii in ('iilifnrnia, to tliMconrafii; (licir I'osi- dencp — ^Slisfionnry lial)our uiiioiii.'' tin* ("liine^e — Vi,Hil to ii IJndillii.st Teiniilc— Address of tlio C'liincse of Victoria to tliu fiovornor — Condition of tlio Nc^rrocs — J)iir('ion(C8 bi'twecn tlioin and tlu; Wliiti>s — Sir. lames ])oii;>lns — \'erdant Simplicity of New Coiners — Kii^ilisli and American Ladie.i compnred — Tone of Society in 1H.*)() — Defalcations of (iovernment Ollieials — K.scapado of a (^iiack — 'Widows' and their Adventures — 'I'emptations of Younjr Men — The 'Skedaddler' — Excitement of Colo- nial Life, and its l^lfect on the Urain — Intelli;j-ence of the Community — The social Pyramid inverted — Life at the Mineii — Miners' Ton Com- niandiuents. It was remarked by an intelJigcnt sliipmaster, wliom I met ill Victoria, tliat lie liad not found in any of the numerous ports he liad visited during a long sea-faring career, so mixed a ])opulation as existed in that city. Though containing at present an average of only 5,000 or G,000 inhabitants, one cannot pass along the principal tlioi'oughfares without meeting rej^resentatives of almost every tribe and nationality under heaven. Within a limited space may be seen — of Ein^opeans, Eussians, Austrians, Poles, Hungarians, Itahans, Danes, Swedes, French, Germans, Spaniards, Swiss, Scotch, English and Irish ; of Africans, Negroes from the United States and the West Indies ; of Asiatics, Lascars and Chinamen ; of Americans, Indians, Mexictuis, Chilanos, and citizens of VAIUKTIKS OV HA( K, COLl'MniA. 'liissificjition of .M'Ut'oiis Mixturo Dirtiibilitii's im- riiiie lliiir Ifo.'*!- (o 11 UtuMhist inor — Conditinn lito.s — Sir ■) unit's I nnd AnuTicim ■< of rJov(.'iiiui('nt ir Advt'ntmt's — lenient of Colo- 10 Coninuinity — lers' Ten Com- ter, ^vllom I any of the g sea-faring in that city. only 5,000 he principal es of ahnost lin a hmitcd , Austrian s, es, French, and Irish ; es and the linamen ; of citizens of 4 (he North American liej)ul>ll(' ; and of Polynesians, Malays from tlic Saiidwicii Inlands. Among the many remaik.'dilc matrimonial alliances to be met with, I have known r'nroju'aiis mariii-d to \m\'v scjuaws, Indian iialf-breeds ; iid Mulatto females res|)('c- tivt'lv. One case has come under my observation of a ne'M'o mai'ried to a white woman, and another of a man descended from a Hindoo mother married to a wife of Indian exti'action. A geiiiK'nian of large ])ro|)eity, I'e- ported to be oi' j\lulalto origin, is married to a half-breeil Indian. Fi'om these heterogeneous unions, and from illicit commerce between tlie vaii(ms rsices just enumerated, it is evident that our po])ulati()n cannot escape the infusion of a considerable hybrid oflsj)ring. Apart from tlie etlect of intercourse between the Mongolian and other laces in our midst, we may certainly calculate upon twenty-three cro.s.ses, in diflerent degrees, resulting from the l)lending of the Caucasian, the aboiiginal American and the negro. The following is the arrangement of Tschudi as adopted by Nott and Gliddon in their able work entitled ' Types of Mankind' : — rnrcnts CliiltUen ■\yiiito fatlicv and Ne^iTo niotlier Mulatto 1 >> >> Indian V Mestiza Indian »> Nc^M'O ?) Cliino Ayiiite )) Mulatto >) Cuarternn ft )) ]\Ie.stizn V Creole (palo browni.sh complexion) )t )} Chino V Chino-blanco >i >» Cuartoronn ,, (^uinlero » (^uintcra Ayiiito i Negro 9) Indian Zaniljo i » » Mulatto Zambo-negro 1 » V Me.stiza Mulatto-oHcuro ", ff >» Chino Zambo-cliino »» >» ZaniLa Zanibo-negro (perfectly black) 1. ') Quintera JIulatto (rather dark) Indian V Mulatto Chino-oseuro 380 i:iTI']CT OF iAIIXTURIi; OF TYPES. rnvcnts Children Indian fiillicr aud Mosti/a mother Mc^fizo-olaro (frequently very Ijeautiful) Cliino Cliino-cnla Zaniba Zambo-cluro Chino-cola ,) Indian (with frizzly hair) (^iiintera Mestizo (rather brown) ilatto Zaniba Zanibo (a miserable race) Mestiza Chino (rather elear complexion) Chino Chino (rather dark). It is to be feared tliat these varieties of luimaiiity do not occupy otir soil and midtiply their kind, in every insttmce, witliout detriment to that type wliicli we desire sliould preponderate. AVliat is to be tlie eflect, upon thtit section of posterity wliicli will, in future centuries, iiihabit the British North American shores of the Pacific, of this commingling of races so diverse in physiological, psychological, iutellectual, nioriil, religions, and political aspects? Circumsttnccs of climate, scenery, race, and natural productions have combined to determine the ])articular mould in whicli the thouglil and life of other peoples, ancient and modern, liaA e been cast. V\liat then will be the resultant of the manifold and unequal forces operating in the formation of distinctive national charac- teristics in these colonies ? This is an interesting and momentous problem which coming ages alone can solve. In description of resources Vancouver Island mtiy I'esenible the parent country, and thus merit the prcnid title of ' tlie England of the Pacific' But the peculiar elements composing the nucleus of the population render it physically impossible for that exact form of national character we have been accustomed to ascribe to Great Britain to be perpetuated in the island of the Far West. Does the presence, so laigely, of inferior races forbode the fatal tainting of the young nation's blood and signal its prematiu'e decay, or will the vitality of the governing race I CIVIL DISABILITIES OF ClIIXKSt: AXD NKGROCS. 8 81 very Ijoautifulj ) )loxion) umaiiity do cl, in every li we desire t, upon tliat ! centuries, tlie Pacific, liysiological, md political ', race, and terniine the ife of other \Vliat then equ.il forces mal charac- restinjx and can solve, island may the proud le peculiar tion render of national jc to Great Far West. foi'bode tlie id si<jfnal its erning race triumph over the contamination with which more primi- tive types threaten to impregnate it ? Tliis is tlie important enquiry that engrosses the attention of ethnological specu- lators in the nascent communities of tlie Nortli Pacific. It is gravely argued by some that to the Caucasian race has been assigned supremacy over the rest of man- kind ; that no new combination of distinct existing races can hnprove its towering excellence ; that in propt)rtion to the rapidity with which deleterious elements are intro- duced, must in course of time be the ratio of its degeneracy and final extinction ; that as in the twelftli century, under the leadership of Genghis Khan and his successors, the Kirghis and the Calmucs from the north of China were hurled upon Eussia, so hordes of modern Asiatics from the former country, lured by the gold of California and British Columbia, may, at some remote period, again inundate these new lands and blast them with desolatit)n. Tliis dark appreliension is shared extensively by tlie fore- most minds in California. Civil disabilities and statutory restrictions have, in consequence, been imposed by the State Legislature with the design of checking their immiaTation. As in the case of iie<^roes in that State, the testimony of the Chinese is not accepted as legal evidence in courts of justice, and they are burdened with taxation beyond what would be endured by the white race. It is maintained also, that while by intermarrying with descendants of Europeans we are but reproducing our own Caucasian type, by commingling with eastern Asiatics we are creating debased hybrids ; that the primary law of nature teaches self-preservation ; and that such protec- tive enactments as have been referred to are essential to the perpetuation and advancemenc of the nation.* * Signs have lately appeared in the American Legislature of the social t.ihoo being removed from negro citizens in the Slates. 382 IIAUITS OF THE CHINESE. Happily botli those coloured races are admitted to the enjoyment of civil privileges in these colonies upon terms of perfect equality with white foreigners, and are alike eligible for naturalisation. Yet even on the Britisli side of the boundary there is a dis[)osition to look coldly upon the immigration of Celestials. It is alleged that so large an amomit of Cliinese labour must have the effect of reducing the price of white labour. But such an opinion is without foundation ; for those C/hinamen, who arrive without capital, are only capable of engaging in menial employments, such as cooking, hawking tea, and keeping laundries. It is but few skilled labourers, I presume, that would desire to compete with them in these callings. Nor can their presence at the mines at all interfere with the enterprises of the superior race ; for it is well known that they are unable to reso»'t to those mechanical appli- ances requisite in the working of rich diggings ; that they always keep at a respectful distance from the whites, and are content with such small returns as may be yielded by abandoned ' claims,' from which the whites have already taken the cream. As to the fear that, if access to the country were not made strait for them, they might ultimately overrun and devastate it like a plague of locusts, nothing could be more groundless. No people have a more intelligent acquaintance with ' the law of su])ply and demand.' They are generally under the direction of shrewd merchants among their own countrymen, who never encourage the poorer classes to leave China without being certain that a fair prospect of occupation exists for them in the parts to Avhicli they are impc^rted ; and in this respect the judgment of those leading Chinamen is rarely at fault. It nuist be acknowledii:ed to their credit that in California, British Columl)ia, and Vancouver Island, an THEIR IXFLUIiNCE UPON TIUDK. iiO'J uliiiitted to Ionics upon irs, and aro the Britisli look coldly :'ged that so the cfFect of 1 an opinion who arrive o' in menial uid keeping I presume, ese callings, terfere with well known mical ap|)li- wino'S ; tliat I the whites, N- be yielded whites have y were not )\XMTun and g could be uit:elliii;ent 1 demand.' of shrewil who never thout being ts for them and in this len is rarely edit that in Island, an unemployed Chinaman is seldom to be met with, and a more industrious and law-abiding class does not reside in these dependencies. In their social and domestic habits, however, I frankly admit there is room for much improve- ment as far as cleanliness is concerned. It is natural that a race so exclusive and so much avoided by tlieir white fellow-citizens on the coast, should give preference to the manufactures of their own country. Much of the clothing they wear and many of tlieir articles of food come from China. They contrive, it is true, to spend as little of their earnings as possible on their adopted soil — most of tlie money made by the humbler classes amonf? them beino; remitted home for the laudable object of contributing to the support of needy relatives. But it is a mistake to regard the trade done and the capital acquired by them as so much wealtli divertetl from tlie channels of white industry, since but for their presence in the country the greater part of that trade would not have been created ; nor would that capital have been accumulated. They cannot prevent connnercial advantage accruing to the colonies from their iniluence, if they would. It is often British bottoms that convey them from China, and they are obliged to buy hardware, Avater- proof boots, and pork from us. xoultry, too, being esteemed a great luxiny, is in great demand among them. When they have lived among the civilised for a time, it not unfrequently happens that they adopt the European and American costume entire. After a protected ex[)enditure of missionary labour upon the attempted evangelisation of the 40,000 Chinese scattered throughout California, the number who have even had the curiosity to wait on the ministrations of Christian instructors is very insiu-nilicant. Ilavinir been the guest for some weeks of an American missionary to the Chinese 384 RiaATlOXS OP Tiriil CFIIXIvSI'; to CIIRISTfAXITY. ill San Francisco, I liave pleasure in testifyinu* tliat tardy success in the work of their conversion is owing neither to want of abiUty or zeal on the part of that pious and excellent agent. Efforts have been made by a clergyman in British Columbia, under the direction of the bishop, for the same object, but, as ftir as I can ascertain, hitherto without any visible result. The minds of the Chinese generally are by no means unin- terested in religious matters. Most of them I have met are a reading people, and ingenious in their remarks on that subject. In conversation with one settled in Victoria, who could make himself intelligible in broken English, I observed that he had some acquaintance with the Biblical account of the creation and the fall of man ; but witli the cavalier manner of a sceptic, he simply declared it legendary, and showed a preference for the view of those events contained in the sacred books of Buddhism as more {ntere.stlii(j. The question of truth did not trouble him in either case ; for he smiled at the Pa^jan and Christian views of the matter as equally fictitious. It was with the same theoretic air that he discussed with me the fticts of Christianity. He had heard of the mission of the Saviour ; but could not be induced to think that it had anything to do with him as a celestial. ' Jesus Clirist,' said he, ' very good God for Englishman, but He no do for Chinaman.' I heard of one of that race who was present on a certain occasion, when differences of religious creed were ni debate. The various shades of Christian belief, I understand, are intolerably perplexing to intelligent Chinamen who visit our shores. ' John ' is said to have listened to the controversy, without edification, till his patience could hold out no longer, and calling the atten- tion of the Christian combatants, he interposed the <». lXITY. VISIT TO A BUDDHIST TEMPLE. 385 t tluit tardy ill"; neither ,t pious and 1 in British for the same without any means unin- liave met are irks on that /"ictoria, who EngUsh, I the Bibhcal 1 ; but with declared it iew of tliose Juddliism as not trouble Pao-an and ous. It was with me the ission of the that it had esus Christ,' Lit He no do ce who was s of religious of Christian to intelligent aid to have tion, till his Gj the atten- ^rposed the following latitudinarian remark, to th igions 4 I remark, to the surprise of them 3ason one ; we all brothers.' A striking feature in the social organisation of the Chinese in California is that they have ])lanted tem])les of Buddha in the very heart of the Christian institutions of that State. Through the kindness of the excellent missionary above alluded to, I was conducted through one of their laruje establishments in San Francisco — a brick buildinn- several stories high, and covering a considerable plot of ground, Here immigrants from China consigned to a certain native company in that city, are accommodated with board and lodging till situations can be obtained for them. Tlie house is divided into stores, apartments for the use of new arrivals and invalids, a small theatre, and a place of worship. In passing through the rooms my friend and I were received with a profusion of courtesy, for which a\ e were partially indebted to the acquaintance of Mr. Loomis with the Chinese language. Seats were placed for us, and small cups of tea, with cigarillas. Asourtimewas limited, we were obliged to decline these oU'ers of hospitality — an act which I fear did not raise their estimate of our politeness. My friend, whom they already knew, was interrogated with their accustomed inquisitiveness as to my name, profession, residence, &c. We next entered the temple — a hall GO feet by 40, emblazoned with devices, consisting of picU^-ial represen- tations and brief quotations from their sacred books, done in gilt, and appro])riate to the frame of mind sought to be excited in such a place. At the end of the room frontino; the entrance was an altar elaboratelv decorated. In the centre of this semi-circular niche stood a hui;e idol of grotesque form, calculated to iiis[)ire the s[)ectat()r with terror and disgust. The face of this monster faintly c c 380 CHINESE ADDRESS TO THE GOVERNOR. resembled that of a liiiman being, but tlie proportions of liis body and tlie dis])Osition of liis numerous and contorted limbs ballle description. On one side of liim were suspended a great bell and drum, which apparatus, it was explained, was intended to wake the god on the approacli of worshi[)pers. I observed but one Chinaman paying his vows while I was present, and on the altar was an offering of fruit. The Chinese of Vancouver Island and Britisli Columbia, only niunbering at present about 2,000, have not yet attempted the erection of any place of devotion. But when attracted in greater force, the pious among them, according to the Buddhist standard, may be expected to erect fanes in which to celebrate traditional rites. I do not find their monotonous course of life in these colonies relieved by more than one holiday demonstration in twelve months : that takes place at the beginning of their new year, which is ushered in by an incessant firing of crackers, enveloping their quarter of the town in a cloud of smoke for an entire day. The folloAving is the literal translation of an address presented by them to Governor Kennedy on his arrival last year, and will give some idea of their admirable discernment on commercial topics, especially in relation to the future of Victoria as a free port : — In the reign of Tong Cliee, 3rd year, 2nd month, 26th day. V. I., 1 864 year, 4th month, 2nd da}'. Us Chinese men greeting thee Excellency in first degree Arthur Edward Kennedy, thee in first rank country name Vancouver with hangers to it. All us here be dwellers at Victoria this Island and Columbia British. Much wish to show mind of dutiful loyalty to this kingdom, mother Victoria Queen, for square and ecjual rule of us. TJii-: TUKAT.MEXT WK owK Tin:.\r. 387 )portioiis of d contorted liiin wiJiG iitus, it was )d on the } Chinaman m the altar h Columbia, ivc not yet otion. But iiong them, expected to tes. life in these imonstration 3eginning of ui incessant ' the town in f an address his arrival admirable in relation 1, 26tli day. legree Artluir le Vancouver md Columbia his kingdom, of us. I Just now must humbly offer much joined mind of compliments t(» thee Excellency Governor Kennedy, on steppini^ to this land uf Vancouver, that thee be no longer in danger of typhoon us much deliglited. Us be here from year 18j8,and count over two thousand Chinese. Chinese countrymen much like that so few of U'j have been chastised for breaking: kinudom rule. This kingdom rule very different from China. Chinese seem much devoted to Victoria Queen for protection and distriiiutive rule of him Excellency old Governor Sir James Douglas, so re- verse California ruling when applied to us Chinese ccjuntrymcn. Us, believing success will come in obeying rulers, not breaking inks, holding on to what is right and true. In trading, hope is good and look out large big prospects for time to come. Us like this no charge place ; see it will grow and grow higher to highest; can see a Canton will be in Victoria of this Pacific. The maritime enterprises will add up wonderfully, and come quick. China has silks, tea, rice, and sugar, etc. Here is lum- ber, coal, minerals, and fish, an exhaustless supply which no other land can surpass. In ending, us confide in gracious hope in thee, first degrees, and first rank, and first links, and trust our California neighbours may not exercise prejudice to our grief. Us merchants in Chinese goods in Victoria, mark our names in behalf of us and Chinese countrymen. Wishing good luck and p'-osperity, to all ranks, and w^ill con- tinue to be faithful and true. Us Chinese men much please Excellency continue to give favour. Us remember to thee. Whether, therefore, we consider the antiquity of these Mongols, their natural ingenuity, or the encouragement afforded by their national institutions to talent, integrity, and industry, the most cogent reasons exist for our extending to them a cordial welcome. Let the colonists sliow the fruits of a suj)erior civilisation and religion, not c c "2 388 THE NEGRO ELEMENT. in ridiculing and despising these Pagan strangers, but in treiiting them with tlie gentle forbe.Hrance due to a less favoured portion of the family of mankind, and they will continue to be useful and inofiensivc members of society. Tlie i)rejudice which characterises race or colour as a disqualification for the exercise of civil rights reflects dis- honour upon the civilised connnunity that indulges it. The descendants of the African race resident in the colonies are entitled to some notice. About 300 of them inhabit Victoria, and upwards of 100 are scattered throughout the farming settlements of the ishmd and i3ritish Columbia. The chief part came to the country some time previous to the immigration of '58, driven from California by social taboo and civil disabilities. They invested the sums they brought with them in land, and by the sudden advance in the value of real estate which fol- lowed the influx of gold seekers, most of them immediately found themselves possessed of a competency. It was not sur[)rising, under these circumstances, that some, formerly habituated to servitude or reproached as representatives of a barbarous I'ace, should, on being delivered from the yoke of social oppression, fail to show much considera- tion for the indurated prejudices of the whites, most of whom at that period were either Americans or British subjects, who sympathised with the ideas prevailing in the United States respecting the social status of the coloured people. Whereas they had been restricted in California to worship Almighty God in their ow^n churches or in a part of those frequented by whites, designed for the exclusive accommodation of persons of colour, they were permitted on coming to Vancouver Island free range of unoccupied pews, in the only church then erected in the colony. The church-going immigrants in the mass i SOCIAL AXTIPATIIIRS. 380 ;crs, but in le to a less id they will ; of society, colour as a reflects dis- idgcs it. deut ill the 300 of tliein •e scattered island and the country driven from ities. They land, and by e which fol- immediately It was not ne, formerly iresentatives d from the considera- tes, most of s or British irevailing in itus of the California to lies or in a led for the they were free range m erected in in the mass 1 wafted to our shores in '58 were at once brouglit into a proximity with coloured worshippers whicli was repugnant to i)ast associations. It is didicult to analyse this social prejudice between the races, and impossihh; to defend it. But I have been astonished to observe its manifestations in Cliristian gentlemen whose intelligence and general consistency were exemplary. Tlie negro supporters of the church, regarding themselves as the 'old families' of the country and the monied aristocracy, and wincing under the recollection of social wrongs endured by them under tlie Amei'ican flag, were not disposed to give way in the slightest to the whims and scruples of the whites. Many of the latter remonstrated with the rlercfvman against allowinu; tlie congregation to assume a speckled appearance — a spectacle deemed by them novel and inconvenient. Tliey insisted that they were ])re- pared to treat the 'blacks' with the utmost humanity and respect, in their own ])lace ; but that the Creator had made a distinction which it was sinful to in:nore ; that the promiscuous arrangement might lead to the sexes in both races falling in love with each other, entering into marriage, and thus occasioniuf;? the deteriora- tioii of the whites without the elevation of the negroes being efrected. Tlie worthy i)i;rson, being direct from the parent country, and till then wholly inex])erienced in the social relations of the conlhcting races, felt at liberty to take only philanthropic and religious ground in dealing with the question. He maintained that the stains of men's sin, in common, were so dark, that mere difference in colour was an affair of supreme insignificance before the Almighty, in comparison, and that the separation desired by the whites was of carnal suggestion, wliich Christianity demanded should be repressed. lie is said even to have gone so deeply into the subject in a particular .300 IXTERFERRNCE OF CLERGYMEN'. sermon as to assort tliat tlic (lis])ositioii of nerves, tendons, and arteries, and tlie essentiiil laeulties of tlie soul were alike in white and black — the sole distinction between them consistinii" of colonrinrj matter under the skin, the l)rojection of tlie lower jaw, and the wool by which the scalp was covered. ]iut these well-intentioned arguments made no im- pression upon the obstinate views by which tlie bulk of the whites wei'e influenced. In many cases they resented the imagined injury ofTered to their feelings by withdrawing from church altogether. While the community was in a ferment on the question, a zealous Nonconformist fresh fn mi the anti-slavery 'platform' of Canada, hastened to espouse the cause of the African. The coloured people, proud of so able a champion, rallied round him, and soon outnumbered the white adherents in his congregation. In making his public dcbnt, he imcompromisingly announced to a congregation chiefly comp(^-sed of whites, that no distinction should be allowed luider his ministry in pew arrangements on the score of colour. The whites took alarm and the following Sunday two-thirds of those in attendance were of the ne^ro race. This })re})onderance of colour in the chapel, however, did not accord with the objects the negroes were ambitious of attaining. They gradually withdrew to the fashionable church where they could enjoy the satisfaction of mingling more largely with the superior race ; and, like the ass in the fable, between the two bimdles of hay, the devoted friend of the African was thus starved out l.)y the desertion of oppressors and oppressed together. So imgratefully are the disinterested services of philanthropy sometimes requited ! Many were of opinion that a diflicidty of so exceptional an order might have been successfully overcome by more prudent K FRACAS OJ-^ THK WHITE AND COLOURED. 891 ^es, tciulons, e soul wero oil between iie skin, tlic ' which the ade no im- whieli tlie many cases heir feelings Wliile tlie n, a zealons ilatfonn' of he African, pion, rallied e adherents ic dclnit, lie ition chielly be allowed the score of iiiLj Sunday negro race, lowever, did 'e aml)itioiis fashionable ;isfaction of e; and, hkc lies of hay, starved out ed together, services of were of order might )re prudent reticence on the pai't of these consi'ientious ministei's. l^lvidently the most ellective method of allaying it was not to attack the ])osition taken by the whites when their social antipathies were excited to I'ever heat, and the attitude assumed by the blacks was not so conciliatory .as \ it ought to iiave been. A little good nature, cautious management, and expedient neuti'ality on the jjart ol' the clergy, would, I have no doubt, soon h;ive brought the antagonists to a pro])er understanding, and silenced this strife for precedence in the religious assembly. The same prejudice of race contiiuies, unfortunately, to interfere with harmony in social gatlierings for the ])urposes of amusement. More than once has the presence of coloured persons in the pit of the theatre occasioned scenes of violence and bloodshed, followed by litigation. When, a few years since, a literary institute was attempted to be formed, and the signatures of one or two res])eclable negroes appeared in the list of subscribers, the movement came to an untimely close. A white member of a temperance society, which Avas eminentl}^ useful in the community, proposed the name of a coloured man for admission, intentionally avoiding to disclose at the time any information as to his race, and when it was discovcrcnl that the society had been beguiled, ignorantly, into accepting a negro as a brother teetotaller, it broke uj). There is nothing in the constitutit)n of the colony to exclude a British born negro from the municipal council or the legislature, and yet, however well qualified he might be by talent and education for the honour, his elec- tion could not be carried in the present state of public feeling. The negroes are perfectly justified in claiming those civil rights which British law confers upon them, and they arc resolved not to desist struggling till these are fully achieved. 302 COURSE TO BE TAKEN BY NE(JU0E8. Having by commendiiblc zeal suci't'ocU'd in ()rf,^anisill<i^ ji liflc (X)r[)s and a brass l)an(l, they c'Xpivssod a wisli to appear in unifoim, on occasion of a ])ublic proccssi(jn formed to escort tlie present Governor to liis residence on landing in tlie colony, liut the prejudice of the whites ruled it otherwise. Wiien they sought an opportunity of showing esteem for the retiring Governor at a baiKpiet given to that gentleman, admission was refused them. When the 'connnon-school ' system is inti'oduced, in which the families of both races ai'e equally entitled to j)artici- l);ite, I foresee that storms will aiiscv Many of this peojjle in the countiy are nccessai'ily endowed with very limited intelligence, while some are well-informed and elocpient in sjieech. lint, as a rjicc, they compare favourably with whites of corresponding social position, in industry and uprightness. It was remarked by Sydney Smith that ' we carmot extort friendship from those whose regard we covet, with a cocked pistol.' If ever, therefore, the fusion of races sought ])y persons of colour is to be brought alxnit, that (3nd will not be accelerated by our negro brethren adopting coercive and resentful measuivs. Their lot in the social sctde should bo borne with i)hilosophic patience and Christian resignation. They should guan^ against causing their fellow-citizens needless irritation, and remember that prejudices long fostered by association cannot be conquered in a moment. The manners of the wliite residents toward each other strike one accustomed to the tacitin-nity for which society in England is proverbial, as remarkably free and hearty. This rule, however, is not without exceptions. The Goveriiment officials constitute the centre of the social system (still in a formative state), and around it multitudes of broken-down gentlemen and certain needy I SIR JAMKS UOUfiLAS, 393 organism^ i a wis) I to proccs.sion L'sidciiccoii the wlutcs lortunity of a ))aii(iui't used tlieiii. !(l, in Avliirli i to ])artici- necessjirily i3 some ai'e , as a race, ['respondiiiL? we cannot covet, with )n of races about, tliat n adoptin;^ tlie social tience and inst causinp^ lember thtit conquered cacli other lich society and hearty. ;ntre of the .1 around it rtain needy tradespeople rotate. The most weiiltliy meml)ers of the connnunity iiave, in general, more money than culture— a condition of thin«^s always incident to the eai'ly staj^e ol' colonial devijlojHnent. Many of them owe their improved circumstances sim[)ly to l)ein<^ the lucky possessors of real estate at a time when it could be bought for a nominal amount. Some who eight years ago were journeymen smiths, car[)enters, butchers, bakers, public-housekeepers, Ol" pro])riet()rs of small curiosity sho[)s in San Francisco or Victoria, aie now in the receipt of thousands of pounds a year. Among this class there are those who bear their prosperity with moderation, while others indicate the limited extent of their accpuiintance witli the world by an air of amusing assumption. There is a resident in the country who, in consideration of his past odicial rehition to it, as first Governor of I British Columbia, deserves passing notice in this place. I refer to Sir James Douglas. This gentleman is completely un- known in England, except at the Colonial Ollice and to a few directors of the Hudson's Bay Coni|)any. lint being a local celebrity, the reader may not object to be introduced to so interesting a character. In stature he exceeds six feet. His countenance, by its weather-beaten ap})earance, still tells of many years spent in fur-trap|)ing adventure;, in the wilds of the interior. Introduced at the age of iifteen or sixteen from the West Indies, the reputed place of his birth, into the service of the company, and deprived, during the greater part of his life, of the advantages of society, except that of Indians, half-breeds, and persons like him -elf occupying humble situations in the employ of the company, every praise is due to him for not being indifle rent to mental culture in those mountain solitudes in which the flower of his manhood was passed. The stateliness of his person — of which he always seems proudly conscious — 304 HIS DEPORTMENT. hikI lii.s natural force of character suggest the reflec- tion to an observer, how vastly more agreeable would have been his address and powerful the iniUience of his character and abilities had he enjoyed in early life a liberal education and intercourse with persons of refnienient and culture. De Quincey describes the well-known Dr. Parr, as the ' Birmingham Dr. Johnson ' — an exj^ression signifying that the former was but an electro-plated imita- tion of the latter. The application of this remark may be left to the reader in reference to the pretentious deport- ment of Sir James. His efforts to appear grand, and even august, were ludicrously out of proportion to the insignificant population he governed — numbering less than the inhabitants of many a country town .in England. Wlien he spoke to anyone within the precincts of the Government House, his Quixotic notions of his office, Avhicli he evidently thought splendid, prompted him to make choice of the sesquipedalian diction he em])loyed in his despatches. The angle of his head, the official tone, the extension of his hand, the bland smile which never readied beyond the corners of his mouth — all these stiff and artificial arrangements were carefully got up and daily repeated by him under the delusion that the juiblic imagined him to be natural and a perfect Brummell in politeness. His manners always gave one the inij^ression that to make up for early disadvantages he had religiously adjusted his whole bearing to the standard of Lord Chesterfield, and it is needless to say how amusing was the combination of his lordship and this dignified old fur- trapper. llis attitude toward the officials serving under his government was austere and distant. This he had acquired under the sort of military regime observed between tlie officers and servants of tlie Hudson's Bay Company. 1 PETTY DIPLOMACY. 895 the rcflcc- able would niluence of early life a if refinement [-known Dr. 1 expression ilated iniita- fiark may bo ious deport- grand, and rtion to the nbering less .in England, precincts of of his office, pted him tc^ [le em])loyed official tone, which never ill these still' up and daily the public 5rummell in e impression d religiously rd of Lord sin^ was the ed old fur- imder his lad acquired between the ompany. 1 I * have heard magistrates addressed by him in a pom- pous manner that no English gentleman would assume toward his porter. But Sir James solemnly felt that ' the machine of state ' could only be kept in motion by his delivering commands, with head erect, and with that rotund and peremptory utterance which at once betrayed and excused vulgarity. He was rarely visible at his d ■ ^' or in the street with- out being arrayed in semi-military unitorm ; but the climax of his extravagance was probably capped by his being followed perpetually, whether taking an airing in the country or going to visit, by an imposing orderly, duly armed and in uniform. In so small and practical a town as Victoria, the temptation of the local wits to satirise so preposterous a spectacle was irresistible. Petty diplomacy was a passion with Sir James — doubt- less developed, from his youth, in the wheedling mode of transacting business with the Indians, adopted by the company in the interior. He never sent away any suj)- pliant for governmental favours without holding out some hope, which, at the same moment, he, in mau}^ cases, determined to frustrate. A favourite plan of his with any wliom he thus sought to keep in good humour was to exhaust their patience by expedient and indefinite post- ponement of the object desired. A certain description of immigrants fresh from England, imagine in their verdant simplicity that their recent arrival from that great centre of knowledge and civilisation gives them a right to patronise colonists whose condition they deem benighted from long exile. The class I refer to have a weakness for manuflicturing stories of better days, departed greatness, and rich relations. One person wliom I knew professed to be a University man ; to have been familiar with a European prince ; heir of a large estate I 396 VERDANT SIMPLICITY OF NEW-COMERS. and ward of a gentleman of influence in England. Th*. curiosity of a friend being excited to learn particulars respecting the mysterious history he supposed to attach to this hero, wrote home to parties claimed by him as former associates. On investigation, it appeared that he was a bankrupt draper and an outlaw, who had changed his name. Amusing disclosures are sometimes made about certain ladies who are anxious to impress the public by exagge- rated representations of their former position in society at home. These elegant specimens of afTectation entertain visitors, languidly, with narratives, intended to set foi'tli the contrast asserted to exist between present hardships and former affluence. But, by an unhappy coincidence, some one usually turns up wlio knows all about their antecedents ; and then the truth comes out, assigning them a very different phice in society from what they pretended to. One lady, who had contracted the inconvenient habit of dropping her Zt's, and using singular verbs with plural nouns, provoked enquiry into the past by expatiating on the magnificence of her ancestral mansion — the number of stories it contained, its turrets and battlements, and the fine view of the sea it commanded. The fact was, to speak without figure, she was the daughter of a worthy lighthouse-keeper ! If the cliaracter of people is respectable, humble origin is felt to be much less a barrier to advancement in the colonies than in England. But in no part of the empire are shams so readily detected. Let it not be supposed, however, that our female society is entirely composed of this or of any other class that is doubtful. It must be confessed, that there are too many females in both colonies, as everywhere else, that reflect I AMERICAN AND ENGLISH LADIES. 397 land. TliL. particulars d to attacli by liim as ired that he changed his 30ut certain by exagge- L in society on entertain to set fortli it hardships coincidence, about their t, assitjnin" what they enient habit Avith plural patiating on he number nnents, and fact was, to )f a worthy mble origin lent in the the empire iiale society class that is 2 too many that reflect little credit the land of their ado thev did as nttie credit upon the land ot tlieir adoption as they did on the land of their birth. Still, we have among us ladies of birth and education, and, what is yet more important, of moral qualities that woidd render them an ornament to their sex in any part of the world. Refugees from bankruptcy, disgrace, or family strife, sufTered in some otlier part of the world, are to be met with in Victoria every few yards. But among the unfor- tunate are some of the most estimable men I have ever seen. The tone of society has become decidedly more Britisli since 1859 ; but still, as tlien, the American element pre- vails. Citizens of the United States may easily be known by tlieir spare, erect, and manly figure. The business men among them are, for the most part, attired in super- fine cloth, most frequently of a dark colour, and high- heeled, broad-toed boots, of admirable fit. Tlie coloured shooting-jacket, so frequently worn by Englishmen in tlie colony during the week, lias no attraction for Ame- ricans. For ethereal beauty, handsomeness, liveliness, and general intelligence, American ladies must be allowed to be eminently distinguished. That high refinement, which can only residt from breeding and education, and is to be found in the foremost rank of British society, is without parallel among Americans. But it is my hnpression that the average of educated American ladies cai^not be equaUed, in interesting expression of counte- ufuice and brightness of intellect, by English ladies of the middle-class generally. The charming sweetness of the American beauty, however, fades prematurely, and at tlie age of 30, when a well-developed English lady is but in her prime, the smooth visage and transparent complexion of our fair cousin have been for years invaded by wrinkles. 398 CHAPTER OF OCCURREiNX'ES. Americans appear to me defective in conversational power. However rapid and distinct their speech may be, tiie diction employed by them is so stilted, and their forms of expression are so elaborate, as to contrast imftivourably with the terse idiomatic phraseology used by those En- glishmen who are competent to wield their own language. A tolerably correct idea of white society in Victoria, at the period when I arrived in the colony, may be gathered from the chapter of occurrences which took place in the smtdl wooden hotel at which I put up, then afTurding the best public accommodation to be obtained in the place. On entering the restaurant the morning of my arrival, the first customer I saw was a tall gentleman with hair of a very red hue, immense moustache, and beard of the same colour and size. This happened to be a man of good family, whose name I recollected to have seen figure in the 'Times,' as co-respondent in a case tried a few months previously before Sir Cresswell Cresswell. Having been mulcted in heavy damages, he absconded from the parent country. Notwithstanding the brit- tleness of Mr. G 's reputation, he was promoted, shortly afterwards, to the responsible situation of Colonial Treasurer, through the consideration of Governor Douglas. But the force of former habits returned to this hero of the Divorce Court, though his natural infirmity now assumed a new manifestation. His extravagance plunged him in debt. When the public ledger was examined, a large balance was struck against him, and no satisfac- tory account could be given by him of the missing cash. He was imprisoned in the common gaol, to await trial for embezzlement ; but as the surveillance of the authorities over him was not sufficiently strict, he escaped and joined one of the contendinii; American armies, in which he fell. DEFALCATIONS OF OFFICIALS. 390 mvcrsational cell may be, I their forms mfavoural)ly y those En- vn language. L Victoria, at be gathered ^lace in the iifTurding the in the place. ^ ari'ival, the :h hair of a of the same lan of good en figure in tried a few ^ Cresswell. absconded the brit- promoted, 1 of Colonial nor Douglas, this hero of firmity now nee plunged s examined, no satisfac- nissing cash, ^ait trial for 3 authorities .1 and joined which he At the same dinner-table, that first day of my acquain- tance with the city, there was an American doctor who had made the sphere of his practice in a neighbouring State too hot for him by misconduct. This man, then about 40, I found had, up to a few years before, followed the humble calling of a barber. There was al.^o present a worthy ex-consul of a European nation, who had lust a fortune through over-speculation. Next morning I was awakened by a Government official of British Columbiji holloaing to the notorious red-haired gentleman above described, whose room was separated from mine by only a thin wooden })artition, informing him that the law- adviser of the Crown for one of the colonies had been challenged to a duel by a brother banister. While refening to lawyers, it may be added that the Supreme Court in both colonies has several times been disgraced by contem})tuous badgering of the bench on the part of certain members of the bar, calculated to shock all one's ideas of judicial dignity. The experience of the colonists at this period was varied by some excitement connected with the trial of a treasury clerk, who had, on the day after my ai'iival, been committed to prison for one year, charged with robbin the colonial ' till' Not long afterwards the postmaster absconded, with a considerable amount of public money. This oflicial had already earned notoriety as prime mover in riots created at Ballarat, in Australia. His course was finished, consistently, a couple of years later, at a gam- bhng-house in Germany, where, becoming inextricably involved in ' debts of honour,' he died by his own hand. How Governor Douglas could be induced to elevate such men to responsible Government situations, it is difiicult to understand. Tired of hotel life, I took up my abode in a respectable (V 400 THE UNMARRIED COUPLE. family, tlie lady of which was threatened, as I believe unjustly, with prosecution for libel, by another lady zealous for her reputation. New quarters soon opened to me, where there appeared every reason to hope that the atmosi)here would be free from the troubles of litigation. For a time domestic peace continued unrulHed. But one day, while at dinner, two policemen came for the purpose of searching the premises ; and I can testify that diges- tion was not greatly assisted by the process. A fellow- boarder was non inventus est, leaving behind him debts to a considend)le amount. My embarrassment was increased by mine host, who was the partner of the defaulter in business, being arrested on suspicion of bcdng implicated in the fraud ; but he was honourably acquitted. Again I felt compelled to beat a retreat. It is not uncommon for persons of plausible address coming into the colonies, to impose on the public, and insinuate themselves uito respectable society. But in a longer or shorter time, the cloven foot is disclosed, and they are obliged to withdraw into obscurity or leave the country. Two persons I knew something of, passed for a while as husband and wife, even with many who were particular about the company they kept. At length the gentleman wx'nt to Cariboo, and during his absence a so-called pro- fessional gentleman became so intimate with the lady as to call forth severe comment on the nature of the relations he sustained to her. After the return of Mr. A from British Columbia, the door was besieged by the quack. The former, wdio opened to him, w\as asked by the new suitor 'if J Avas at home' — alluding to the supposed wife of Mr. A The latter aflfected intense indignation that his wife should be spoken of by a stranger in so familiar a manner. But the doctor, nothing daunted, I i5 I believe other lady n opened to )pc that the )f litigation. 1. But one the purpose that diges- A fellow- lim debts to as increased defaidtcr in g implicated ,ted. Again ;ible address ; public, and But in a isclosed, and or leave the Tor a while as •e particular ic gentleman (-called pro- |i the lady as the relations A from |e quack. The le new suitor lipposed wife indignation I'aniier in so lni»- daunted, ADVIiXTIJIlES OF WIDOWS. 401 i reminded iMr. A tliat lie was her riLditful owner, as sIk' was engaged to be married to liini, and had never stood in tliat sacred relation to ]\Ir. A . 'J'he pre- tended husband, as an American expressed it, 'wilted down,' and was obliged, after a residenc:e of some half- dozen yeai's under the same roof with his mistress, to resign in favour of the partner to whom she was about to be legally attached. A number of females have found their way int(^ the country Avho give themselves out as vidotcs-, without being entitled to that sad but honourable desiu'iiation. Some singular coincidences came under my observation, a few years since, respecting one of this class. I was in- vited to perform the ceremony of marriage between the woman in question, who had just come to the country, and a settler. Six months afterwards, I received a letter from a gentleman of high profession.al reputation in Eng- land, to whose name Avere appended several learned titles, and who presided over one of the most important public; institutions in London. His object in writing was to ascertain the particulars of the marriage referred to, not, as he remarked, with a view to throwing any impediment in the way, for he assm-ed me the lady (all females are known as ladies on this side the world) had not befoi'c been married. Yet, with his knowledge, she took his name, and represented herself as a bereaved wife. The iacts warranted me in drawing only a conclusion that involved dishonour to the parties. An evening or two after the receipt of this comnumi- cation, a friend, who had lived in California, called on me, and happened casually, in conversation, to review the prominent events of early mining days in San Francisco. Among other pioneer characters he recalled the lady un- der consideration, who was then exhibited, he said, in an D D 402 TKllMS OF THE MAUULUiE ACT. indecorous manner, in imitation of statuar}' — a very suc- cessful metiiod of ()l)taiuinii: money from vicious men in those rude times. The ex]iil)itor of tluit obscene spectacle was not asliamed to be addressed as her husb;ind. The; name of the nnui reported by my friend agreed with tliat attached to tlie letter from England, and the married de- signation by which, as a })retended widow, the inilui[)py w<jman desired to be known. An instance of the intriguing disposition of some of these nondesci'ipt females may be related. It may be interestini*; to some bachelor or maiden readers, who contemplate seeking their fortune in this new land, and ])refer a quiet celebration of tlieir nuptials, to know that the Marriage Act of Vancouver Island })rovides f(jr matri- mony being entered upon, if so deemed expedient by the lovers, within a brief space after their minds are made up on the momentous question of having the knot tied. ]3y j)aying a fee of ten dollars, and making a de- claration mider oath at Government House that no legal impediment exists to the union, the bridegroom can pro- cure a special licence under the hand and seal of the Governor. On presenting this document to a clergy- man or minister, and advancing to him a further sum of not less than ]/. 2.s\ 6(/., the desired privilege maybe had. Most candidates for connubial felicity in these colo- nies prefer being married in the evening, and in a private house. A message having come from a Mrs. P , request- ing my services at her house in the evening, to iniite her in matrimony to a lucky miner, I communicated to the messenger, for the information of this lady, the law on the subject that has just been stated. On reaching the house at the hour appointed for the ceremony, I was ushered by a servant into a brilliantly-hghted parlour, but EXTllAOllDINAliY WKUDLVCJ SCKXK. l():j veiy sue- us meu ill 3 spoctiu'lc! uid. Tlio I with tluit laiTied de- s uulmppy )f some ol It may be adcrs, avIio V laud, and know that }s tbv matri- :pedieut by minds are ii(v the knot CD aking a dc- liat no legal m can pro- seal of tlie L) a clergy- further sum ege may be these colo- in a private --, rcquest- icr, to unite immunicatcd ady, the law lOn reaching Inony, I was parlour, but neither bride, bridegroom, guest, nor witness to the pro- posed transaction was to be seen. In a few moments, the rustling of a silk dress in the hall announced that some female form was at hand. jM}' suspense was soon relieved by a lady coming towards the sofa on which I was seated, who impressed me as neither shy nor mirthful. Without any attempt at form, she took a seat near me. Having no index by her movements what position she was to occupy in the business of the evening, I i-efrained, out of regard to proj)riety, from breaking silence, lest any enquiries I might make should appear imi^ertinent. At length, looking at me with a lackadaisical stare, she said : ' Are you the minister ?' 'Yes,' I re[)lied ; ' may I take the liberty of asking Avhether you are the bride r' ' I am,' said the lady. ' Then, I presume,' said I, 'that your intended husband has procured the special licence, and that all your arrangements are made?' ' Who are you ?' she said with a troubled and half-defiant air. ' Are you not a regular minister ? We need no licence in the v^tates for this sort of thing !' ' I have simply to say,' said I, ' that some one has deceived me. I asked your mes- senger explicitly if the necessary sanction of the Governor had been obtained, and Avas answered in the allirmative. It is a waste of time and a breach of courtesy to bring me here at this late hour, when you know the legal con- ditions of your proposed marriage have not been com[)lied with.' With em])hasis and gesticulation she exclaimed : 'I must be married to-night! You don't know how peculiar the case is. If the thing be not done to-night, it may never be. If you only knew what a peculiar man my intended husband is . Y^'ou can make it all right, if you like.' Then, coaxingly, she added, as if she thought I were only teasing her for a bribe, 'I'll give you my note for a hundred and lifty dollars, if you maiTy us to- i> i> 2 404 CONDUCT OF TlIK HHIiOINi: iii.iLi'lit, mid you cjiii easily do jill tlio Oovoriiinciit wants afterwards.' ^ I ])v>^ your jjardou,' said I. 'Uidcsstlic Ijridc'^room first <j:o ihroiiLjli the forms i)resc'ril)i'd by the GoveruiiRMit, any ollicial act done by uic is valut'Iess, and if the gentleman were to leave you, you could have no recourse at law against liini. lint why does he not come and speak for liimself? and where are your witnesses ? The whole aflair is incomi)rehensil)le !' 'Yes; he's in the next room. I "11 send him in ; but he's a ])eculiar num.' At length the victim whose fate was al)out to be decided was inti'oduced — just the kind of subject whom the arts of a desioninu' woman wouhl be likely to fasci- nate. lie appeared to be embarking in a cause of which he was either afraid or ashamed. lie expressed Jiis willingne'ss to enter into the pending contract ; but every- tliini' alxmt his uianner l)esi)oke i^reat reluctance. 1 explained what steps were recpiisite to be taken to rendei' his marriage legal, and prouiiscd to wait twenty uiinutes for his return from the office where the licence was to be obtained ; assuring him, at the same time, that if he Avished to postpone the ceremony I would cheerfully re- tire. With a sullen gravity, more befitting what related to a death-warrant, he went to procure that which most men, on such an occasion, would regard as a harbinger ofj<^y- While he had gone, a female friend came into the room, followed by the redoubtable heroine of the evening, who had in her liaiid a tray sui)porting three bumpers of champagne, to be drunk, contrary to all precedent, in anticipation of the coming event. Eesolved to set my face against this iimovtition upon decorum, I declined to accept what was proflered. But the bride, having less scrupulousness, imbibed liberally — perhaps in the hope of acquiring nerve to bear the cjrdeal that was before her. Till': I'LOT i'xi:avi;lli:i). 40: iK'iit wants Uiik'ss llic K'd by the liu'lt'ss, and 1(1 have 110 e not conu; Avitnc'^^sc'S ? lie's in llie ilinr man.' b(nit to be bject Avlioni ely to f'asci- se of wliicli ^pressed his ; but every - hictance. 1 LMi to render pnty minutes ce was to be that it' he leer fully re- hat related whieh most a harbinger to the room, veninir, who bumpers of n'ecedent, iu 1 to set my deelined to having less 1 the hope of before her. liy tlio time the gentlemnn returni'd, she had suceocde(l in iittaininga very eonvivial state; and, indeed, wliiK' the ninr- riage-serviee wjis being read, proved iihnost iiK'!ij)able of standing ei'eet. Her jilleetion for her husband, wnrmed with wine, could not bi' restrained till the eeremonv was decently ended. As soon as the act wms over, she con- soled the creature she had snared in liei' toils, bv remindinLi; him that she had liim fast now. 'Faugh!' said the hus- l)and, dreauiing 01 ireedom which was no longer jiis, VL can please myself about that. There 's 11 steamer for kfim Francisco to-morrow.' Tlie next day the plot was unravelled. The lucky miner had been introduced to this worthless woman by her purauiofir. This e(|ually bad character had met the dupe accidentally at the mines, and arrangi'd with his mistress that she should captivate him, and that when she had won his love, bets should be exchanged between them, on the ])robabilities of their marriage within so many days. The bait took. The gentleman was to lose ^1,(100 if untrue to his enn-ao'ement. and she the same amount if she should alter her mind. Her end, which was to gain money, was achieved whichever Avay his humour might incline. The third party referred to, no doubt, realised a large connnis- sion on the transaction. In a few weeks her husband discovered, by proof as disagreeable as it was convincing, that her former lover had resumed his place in her heart, and he, consequently, was luider the painful necessity — which Avas the form in which duty presented itself to him at the moment — of blackening the eyes of this scoundi-el. Within tlie same period she had exhausted a credit of iS'5,000, placed in the bank for her use. Her husband felt com])elled to adopt the plan customary in such cases, of ])ublishhig a notice hi the newspapers that he should not be any longer responsible for lutr debts. ^Slie replitxl 400 YOUXO COLONISTS. tlirou^fli tlk' sjiinc iiKMliiini; Jiiid to roinplctc licr I'ctMliiitioii, iuid sliumc liiiu, if pos^ililc, into lujikinj^ sonic pccuniaiy conipi'oniisc, slic jnniounccd licr appciirjincu at a low sin_uin_L''-i'()oni. ^lany 'roii^dis' -went, iVoin ciiiiosity, to Avitnoss this cxliihitioii. As slie seonicd disj)os('d ncitlier to sin<j^ nor dance for their ainnsenu-nt, one fellow slionte(l tliat ' they hadn't pjot the worth of their money.' At this remark she linrlcd a stool at his liead, and the comi)any separated in conl'nsloii. Her eoiirse sinee then need not be traced. If clerirymen in the countiy wei'e ])ermitte(l to divorce as well as to rnarry, it is to be fc^aretl they mi^dit often be invited to nndo, in Tenelopi' fashion, at the end oi" the year what they did at the beginning of it. Withont .'MHictinu: liuhteoiis minds with moi'e anecdotes of this description — thonuh they might be recited by the score — it may just be t)bseived. that 'the social evil,' if it do not prevail in greater ratio than it does in the parent country, at least rears its head more iniblushingly, and ])rostitutes are reputed to be the richest of their sex. Nor is scandal confined to unmarried or obscure circles in the community. Single young men, many of them w^ell connected and possessing a good education, form a large portion of the population. The habits of some indicate them to have been ' black sheep ' in the domestic fold at home ; othei's of good reputation are sometimes to be found, who fail in success for want of the tact, energy, and endurance requisite to conquer the difficulties peculiar to colonial life. Others are distinguished by an indomitable spirit that smil- ingly breasts the passing wave of misfortune ; they never lose an affiible and modest bearing, or a regard for integrity, under the most trying disappointments, but pursue their aims in the unfaltering assurance tliat victory, though de- layed, will eventually reward their struggles. The beams TIIKlIf TFMITATIO.NN AND DANlMlKS. 11 rcttiliiitioii, ^ ])L'('uniiiiy iit a low iii'iosify, to (1 ncitliLT to [)W si touted y.' At this lie c()ini)any need not bo icnnittc'd to they mi gilt ., ut tliu end it. re anecdotes cited by the ial evil,' if it I tlie ])arent shingly, and f their sex. scure circles nnectcd and tion of the lem to have jnie ; otliers id, who fail 1 endurance colonial life, rit that smil- ; they never for integrity, pursue their thouiijh de- The beams j of a i)rosj)erous future are I'dlccted in tlu' gliuiee of such men, and the conununity instinetively makes way for their [iromotion. If, however, there lu; any vulnerable ])(»int in the i-ha- racter of the young and inexperienced colonist, it is cer- tain to be hit by the arrow ol' temptation. It is iniixissible for the imaginative youth, surrounded with the blandish- ments of fashionable English lifi', the associations of the Cliurch,the proprieties ()ftlie(h!batiiigclub,or the restraints of fond relationship, to over-estimate the iiery trial that awaits him, when thrown like a Hedged bird from the maternal nest into the society of strangers, for the most part selfish, and interested in the 'greenhorn' only as far as they can profit by the attentions they [)ay him. Should his concern ft)r speedily entering on a money-making career outweigh that better judgment which compasses its end by cautious measures and slow degrees, and looks out first for a right start, nothing is more })rol)able than that he will be pounced u])on by those disguis(jd falcons that ai'eever on the watch for such a quarry. Once persuaded by their sophistry that under their counsel he is on the high-road to wealth, he Avillbe induced, in his imagined shrewdness, to accom- modate himself to their habits, under the impression that the llatterhig compliment he thus shows will have the eflect of quickening their disinterested zeal in his behalf lie complacently argues within himself: ' These persons are evidently smart; but liow fortunate I am to be smarter still, and able to manage them!' The speculation into Avliich he has been lured, of course, bursts ; his obliging friends ( ! ) have got all they wanted out of him, and he is left to console himself as best he can under ids losses. If of an excitable nature, he is likely to drown his sor- rows in somethhig stronger than water. It is, alas ! the old and oft-told storv. 408 LEISURE OCCLTATIONS. But tlie picture has a reverse side. Should favourable prospects open up, exceeding, as sometimes liappens, his most sanguine expectations, one of the nervous tempera- ment just described miglit be tempted to find vent for his gratificati(jn in a s-i/utposinm^ graced by the presence of those 'jolly good fellows ' that, like swallows, flutter around one in the sunshine of prosperity, but disa})pear when the winter of adversity approaches. Over the mortal remains of how many [)romising characters, wrecked on the shoals and reefs against which friendly warning has been given above, have I been called to perform sad offices! Many still meet one's observation in the streets of Victoria, wlio, unless a merciful Providence interpose, are doomed to the drunkard's grave. Frequently have I been delighted to see the beneficial change ellected by marriage, in arrest- ing tlie progress of dissipation. It is only to be regretted that the paucity of respectal3le females in Vancouver Island and Britisli Columbia limits so much the opportunities of single men Avho desire to cultivate domestic virtues, and lead sobei' lives. From a volunteer rifle corps which has been organised under encouraging auspices, I anticipate much good, in affording the class referred to amusing oc- cupation for part of their leisure.* Happy will it be, too, for the comfort and morals of young men, when the ' shanty ' life, involving the inconvenience of cooking with their own hands, and the restaurant, which fosters home feelings to even a smaller extent, are more generally displaced by lodging-houses, kept by private families, at moderate rates, and in tlie style familiar to clerks and warehousemen in England. Theproximity of the United States to these colonies offers speciid facilities to fraudulent debtors for escaping from jus- * I am hnppy to loarn tliiit at loiijrtli a public roadiiig-room and library have bt'i'ii formed in Mctoria. THE ' SKEUADDLER. 409 avourablo ppeiis, his i teinpeni- jiit for liis 'cscnce ul' tor around wlieu the al remains the shoals ecu given is! Many Victoria, :e doomed L deUglited !, in arrest- i regretted iver Island tunities of rtues, and Avliich has anticipate nusing oc- it be, too, le ' shanty ' with their lie feeling's placed by rate rates, Lisemen in )nies offers ^fromjus- imd library < tice. Washington territory may be reached in a few hours, or a passage to California eflected in a few days ; and once on American soil, the defaulter usually fmds no didiculty in eluding detection, A curious exception to this rule, however, which occurred last year, may not l^e uninterest- ing- A Jew brought a lot of jewellery to Victoria, which, for a tunc, he exhibited to the utmost advantau'e. Findini^ that the Scotch possessed considerable iniluence in the coimtry, he gave himself out as of that nationality — a stronu; German accent notwithstandintj. Learnintif next that the Chiu'ch of England was the leading religious body, he invested in a pew and a gilt prayer-book. His ci'edit was above suspicion ; so he connnenced a career of reckless s[)eculation ; leased land, built houses, and imported goods. Every money-lender in town was ready to discount his bills. When due, they were renewed. He mortgaged his goods while any were in the store. When casks of rum were exhausted, he filled them with treacle and Avater. When bales of dry goods were disposed of, he supplied their place with rags. By thus duping accom- modating friends, he was enabled to obtain moiuy far be- yond the value of the stock mortua^ed. At leniith the crisis came. lie placed his family safely on board the steamer for California. Certain creditors, suspecting that the bird was about to take wing, sent the bailiff, armed with a cdpids for his arrest. To avoid his pursuers he put out in a small boat, intendiuL;: to hail the steamer when a few miles from land. But this signal was imheeded, and he turned the boat's prow to the American side. When tlie news spread the following day, the creditors hired a steam- boat and went in search. Eeachinii; Port Townsend after dusk they Avent through the place in quest of their \)YQy. During their absence, the runaway walked on l)oard, imn- 410 INSANITY IN THE COLONIES. gining tlie vessel to be en route foi* Olympia — a more distant American port in Puget Sound, lie at once retired to his state-room and slept. He was waked an hour or two later by a policeman who took him prisoner, and to his utter amazement he found himself back in the city whence he sought to disappear. Tlie intense pitch to which the feelings of people are strung in a gold-producing country is a frequent cause of insanity. Whether that malady exist in a greater degree in this community than in one of a more settled description, I am not sufficiently versed in the statistics of the subject to aver. But certainly a much larger proportion of cases have been personally known to me here than in the same ])eriod I ever saw in the much denser populations of England. I can reckon up eight persons — all of whom I have been on speaking terms with, and most of wlumi I knew intimately, who, in four years and a half, have become lunatics, and as such are either living or dead. Tliere was a quiet and respectable man, about thirty, "who kept a school in Victoria. He became unmanned by ])ecuniary difficulties, and took leave of friends he liad been visiting, with unusual seriousness and formality, and the same evening attached a rope to the Avail of his room, thence suspending himself by the neck. Two days after, the owner of the apartment went to collect the rent, and cut the body down. Tw^o other unfortunate persons laboured under the hal- lucination that certain friends had conspired to mix poison with their food. Another w^as a medical man, who called on me, offering for sfde a very old copy of an Italian Bible, which he assured me was valued by English 'book-hunters' at a hundred ])ounds ; but being em- barrassed he was wilhng to let me have it for ten pounds. Still he never produced tlie book. Tlic occasion of his THE RELIGIOUS MANIAC. 411 more distant etired to his or two later to his utter T whence he people are 3nt cause of eater degree description, f the subject ion of cases in the same pulations of 1 of whom I t of wlumi I a half, have or dead, ibout thirty, nmanned by 3nds he had rmality, and of his room, days after, rent, and cut ider the hal- ed to mix edical man, copy of an d by Englisli : being em- • ten pounds, asion of liis \ narrow circumstances was related liv him witli irreat earnestness and originality. The local Govei'nment, he said, had a spite against him witliout any provocation, and employed some Cliinamen to annoy him by invisible agency. Tliis consisted of a projectile wliicli could be darted through the air at any distance. It was impercep- tible to natural vision, but by an allinity establislied be- tween it and a pimple at the back of the doctor's head, it went straiizht from the hand which threw it to that object. The result of this contact was that, according to his testimony, he was invariably brouglit down, where vei* lie might be, unless already in a reclining posture. lie went into a learned explanation of the invention of tliis subtle and dangerous weapon, ascribed by him to the combined genius of a Jesuit priest and a Chinaman, wJio too;cther brought it to liglit in tlie reign of Ilenrv VII. The infhience, however, wliich turned the doctor Irom a perpendicular to a horizontal position, I fear, answers more correctly to the slang description of Americans ; ' Cliain-lightning, warranted to kill at 100 yards.' Aui/licc, ' grog.' Another gentleman, formerly a parish sclioolmaster in Scotland, and respectably educated at a Scotch imiversity, fell a prey to mental aberration. Having often felt inter- ested in his conversation on metaphysical subjects, of whicli he was passionately fond, my sense of sorrow may be judged of on visiting him, after he showed signs of mad- ness, in the common gaol — the only place at present appro- priated for lunatics in Victoria. Now his form was bent, his features haggard, his mouth awry, and his speech a loud, incessant, and incoherent jabber. Perhaps the most interesting case of this kind that came under my notice was that of a relhjions maniac. Upon cveiy point but one he appeared sane. Ilis ruling idea was, 412 SOCIAL PYRAMID INVEllTED. that tlic Almighly had revealed to liim the vision of a spiritual and united kingdom to arise from tlie ruins of the dismembered republic of America. The Saviour was to be the acknowledged liead, and preside in person over its destinies. lie believed himself to have been divinely inspired, and infallibly directed in pre[)aring a national emblem for the new empire. Under the [)ower of this afilatu.s, he felt called upon to employ the services of the best professional draughtsman lie could command, to sketch the proposed design, and other artists were enlisted, at great expense, to execute it. I have but a faint i-emembrance of a lamb, a dove, and some words of Scripture being inscribed upon the flag. But the devout enthusiast told me that he had placed the standard of the Heavenly King in safe keeping, confident that, ere long, He would descend, take it from its place of custody, and ])roclaiin his reign ! In so small a town, it is astonishing from how many parts of the world information converges as to a focus. Within a few hours I have met in the streets of Victoria persons wlio had respectively crossed the And(!s, ascended Mont Blanc, fought in the Crimea, cx[)lored the Xortli- West passage, seen Pekin, ransacked IMcxican antiquities, lived on the coast of Africa, formed part of Walker's band of filibusters, made a pilgrimage to the Xile and Palesthie, revelled in the luxuries of India, witnessed Sepoys blown away from Ih'itish guns, wintered in Petersburg, en- gaged in buffalo hunts on the great prairies of Xorth America, seen Napoleon I., been old friends of Napoleon III., or educated at the same school with the Princess of Wales. The immigrant accustomed to the distinctions of class obtaining in settled populations of the old world, Avill l)e struck to observe how completely the social pyramid is inverted in the colonies. Many persons of birth and 1 Ision of a uins of the was to bo 11 over its 11 divinely a national -er of this ices of tlie 1, to sketch L'd, at irreat neinbrance ture being lusiast told venly King Id descend, his reign ! how many ;o a focus, of Victoria s, ascended ;he North- antiquities, ker's band Palestine, -)oys blown sburg, en- s of North Napoleon Princess of lis of class id, will \ki pyramid is birth and OXFORD MKX liOUinilXG IT. 413 education, but of reduced means, are compelled, for a time after their arrival, to struggle with hardship, while the vulgar, who have but recently acquired wealth, are arrayed hi soft clothing and fare sum[)tu()usly. Sons of admirals and daughters of clertrymen are sometimes found in abject circumstances, while men only versed in the art of Avielding tlic butcher's knife, the drayman's whip, and the blacksmith's hammer, or women of low degree, have made fortunes. The most ludicrous example of these social trans] )ositions with which I am acquainted, relates to a gentleman and his man-servant, who came out to- gether in the same ship. The hireling having (piari'elled with his master, resigned liis situation, applied for em- ployment in the police-force, and was accepted. The first subject on whom he found an opjiortimity of practising ollicially after he was appointed, happened to be his former master. That unfortunate irentleman laid himself open to the suspicion of being 'drunk and disorderly,' and was immediately taken in charge by the individual who had been wont to serve him. Oxford and Cambridge men, arriving with light pockets and inflated expectations, I have seen brought to the ne- cessity of working on the roads. One respectable ex-mis- sionary to China I heard of, who earned his bread, for a few months after landing, as cook in a third-rate eatinu-liouse: and a ' valued correspondent ' of ' Household Words,' I remember to have filled a similar office. One clergyman of the Church of England visited me for the purpose of obtaining work in a copper-mine, to the directors of Avhich he desired that I should recommend him ; and another, also from Enciand, went to the aold-mines of r)riti>h Columbia, to supplement the scanty savings he had been enabled to lay by from the income of the cui-acy he had left. Probably these q>fO)idaiii priests now rejoice in 114 SOCIKTY IX THE INTITJOR. incofjii'dos coii^;iderably less cuplionious tlinn tlieir family names. If any delicacy is shown by men at the diggings in regard to disclosing tlieir real names, no impudent questions are asked on the subject; but a name is extemporised by the miners, arising out of some eccentri- city of person or character, some notable expression- at any time uttered l)y the individual, or event that may have occurred in his experience. If a man seems educated, the company in wliich he may be working or travelling, in ignorance of his true a})pellation, Avill usually designate him by the laconic title of ' doc,' for doctor, or 'cap,' for captain. If tall, his accociates, should his family-name be not forthcoming, may dub him ' Bi>>' Bill.' Should he have a Aveakness for ire- (juently relxirring to some town, creek, or country frcjm Avhich he has come, he may expect to have the name of the place united with his own, such as 'Ilattlesnake Jack,' ' Oregon Bob,' &c. A gentleman avIio was fond of dis- playing an array of initials before and titles after his name was significantly called Alphabet M'-D . Druggists inform me that the demand for hair-dye by innnigrants is so large as to be quite noticeable. The cause of this expedient, in such a country, may be readily conjectured. Society in the interior is very depraved. In Yale, Douglas, Lytton, Lilloet, Forks of Quesnelle, and the mhiing towns, little trace of Sunday is at present visible, except in the resort of miners on that day to market for provisions, Avashing of dirty clothes, repairing machinery, gambling, and dissipation. Out of the 5,000 souls in Vic- toria, a few may be found who respect the ordinances of religion. But at the mines, adherents of religious bodies have hitherto been niunbered by scores and units.* ♦ Of course, more genor.il nncl punctual observance of religious duties must follow the annual increase and settlement of the mining population. leir family c diuiiin^s impiuluut name is e ecceiitri- )rcssic)ii- at that may wliicli he if his true [iconic title [f tall, liis )ming, may ss for i're- mtry from e name of iiake Jack,' )nd of dis- 3 after his • air-dye by tible. The be readily In Yale, 3, and the ent visible, narket for nachinery. Ills in Vic- inances of ous bodies its.* ligious duties population. SLAXti IX VOGUE. 115 Up to the present there have been but two places oFwor- sliii) in Cariboo — one conne(;ted with the Cinirch of Eii<'-- land, and the other with the Wesleyan ]\lethodists. Till the i'all of 1803, when these were built, the services of ])ul)hc worship were conducted in a bar-room and billiard-saloon. At one end of the a])aitmeiit was the cler<^ymnn, with his small congregation, and at the other were desperadoes, collected unblushingly around the /aro or pokak table, staking the earnings of the preceding week. Profane language is almost universal, and is employed with diabolical ing(muity. The names of ' Jesus Christ' and the 'Almighty' are introduced in most blasphemous connections. Going to church is known among many as '• the I'eligious dodge,' which is said to be 'played out,' or, in other words, a superstition which has ceased to have tiny interest for enlightened members of society. A saloon-keeper, in one of the up-country towns, find- ing that business had been dull in his establishment durinir the previous week, and hearing the sound of the church- going bell one Sunday evening, wtis sei;>:ed with an erratic wish to attend Divine service, imder the impression that, possibly, the policy he had resolved upon might have the effect of improving his liquor traffic. Anxious for sympathy in the good work, he thus addressed a number of miners that were lounghigon the premises: 'Come, boys; business htis been Hat this last weels ; we must try the religious dodge to-night ; every man that's willing to go to church, come up to the bar and tak(? a drink.' This novel and tem])ting premium had the result desired. The slanu" in votxiie in the mining regions is imi)orted mainly from California, and is often as ex])ressive as it is ori^intd. ' Guessing ' and ' calculating ' tire exercises of perpetual occurrence. If one have the best of a bargain, he is said to have gut ' the dead wood ' on the other [>arty 41G KINDIIKAUTKDNKSS OF iMlXIvRS. ill tlie transaction. A mean and greedy man is 'on the make; ' and where a 'claim' is to be disposed of, the pro- prietor is 'on tlie sell.' A conceited man thinks himself ' some pumpkins ; ' and when any statement is made, the exact truth of which is doubted, it is said to be 'layther a tall story.' When a claim disappoints the hopes of those interested in it, it has 'fizzled out.' Credit is 'jaw-bone;' and in one store on the road to Cariboo, the full-sized jaw-bone of a horse is polished, and suspended on the wall, with the words written under : ' None of this allowed here.' The ground of the allusion is evident, the product resulting from the motion of the jaw being the only security a needy purchaser has to olTer. Another expression for wanting credit is ' shooting off the face.' Deceit in business is ' shananigan.' A good road, steam- boat, plough, dinner, or anything else you please, is 'elegant.' When one has run off to avoid paying his debts, he has ' skedaddled,' or ' vamoosed the ranch ;' or if hard-up, he wants to ' make a raise.' Owing to the remoteness of British Columbia from other centres of British population, it is called the ' jumping-off place ' — another phrase for the end of the world. Any issue likely to arise from a given chain of events, is seen 'stick- ing out.' When two parties are playing into each other's hands, with a sinister object in view, it is a case of ' log- rolling.' When the conduct of any one renders hiiii hable to a whippuig or something worse, he is ' spotted.' Among the roughest of professional miners, exhibi- tions of kindness occur fitted to shame many of more moral pretensions. As a class, they are not avaricious. It is not so much the possessing of money, as the excitement attending the acquisition of it, that affords them satisfac- tion. It were more conducive to their welfare could they be induced to cultivate more thrifty habits. If the is ' on the of, tlie pro- iiks liiinsL'lt' s made, tlic be ' raytlier pes of those 'jaw-bone;' le full- sized ded on the ne of this is evident, e jaw being er. Another (T the face.' road, steani- u please, is . paying his ! ranch ;' or ving to the centres of )fr place ' — Any issue seen 'stick- each other's case of ' log- 's him liable ed.' lers, exhibi- ny of more aricious. It excitement lem satisfiic- elfare could jits. If the STATP: of KKLIfilOX. 417 patronage they recklessly bestow U[)on jniblic-lionses wer(; witlidrawn, and tlie vast sums thus scjuaudered diverted into productive channels, tlie si)hit of k'githnate enter- prise would be fostered, ami the resoui'ces of the country be more rapidly developed. The sentiment of ' pure and undefiled religion ' does not llourish at present in the colonies. In the Protestant world on tlie Pacific coast, the reliu'ious sect to which a man is attached may commonly be determined by the extent of his business. Small retailers and mechanics swarm among the Methodists ; jobbers, who break packages, and the larger class of store-keepers, frequent the I*resbyte- rian and Ctnigregationid chapels; and the bankers, lawyers, and wholesale dealers prefer the Church of England. Just as with their augmented resources they erect comfortable houses, so they seek to ])rovide themselves with a chinx'h suited to their advanced social position. The utilitarian, tendencies of the people are su^'h, that eloquent or spiri- tual preaching by itself will not attract worshi|)pei's. Their comfort must be consulted, as it respects the place of worship erected, and their emotions nuist be appealed to through the niedium of an organ and an edicicMit choir. Iieligious sce[)ticism pi'evails to a remarkable extent, as it does in all new countries. I have known cases in wliich Christian pastors have been turned away from the bedside of the dying colonist, and forbidden by him either to ofler prayer to Almighty God for his restoration to health, or administer the consolations of the Gospel. IJut I trust such cases of extreme obdui-acy are not common. Some of the objections I have encountered against Christianity are as absurd as they are profane. An old Enu'lish boor, when conversing with me on the Christian faith, remarked, 'Jesus C'l.-ist was a very good fellow, l)ut he was an Indian ! ' On inquiring what [)roof he had 418 MINERS TEN COMMANDMENTS. for so extraordinary a statement, lie deliberately took down an atlas from the shelf, to show that, as the Saviour was born within so many degrees of the line, He must belong to the coloured race I Another settler more intel- ligent than the former, when expressing regret to mo on account of moral infirmities, gravely laid the blame of these on the unfortunate shape of his head. In a country where so mtuiy are governed by impulse, and rendered desperate by losses sustained in speculation, it is not surprising that instauces of highway robbery and murder should occasionally hii])pen. The commission of these crimes, however, as in California and Australia, has been hitherto confined to solitary intervals, between the towns of British Columbia, on the way to the mines. The proportion of crime, at present, is decidedly small, con- sidering the character and number of the population. A comprehensive view of the virtues and the vices of raining life may be had from the following composition. The advice imparted is wholesome, and conveyed in technical phraseology, which every miner can imderstand, though the form in which the 'commandments' are thrown is made to resemble the decalogue with unnecessary and profane exactness. A man spake these words, and said : I am a miner, who wanderetl from *away clown east,' and came to sojourn in a strange land, and ' see the elephant.' And behold I saw him, and bear witness, that from the key of his trunk to the end of his tail, his whole body has passed before me ; and I followed him until bis huge feet stcjod still befi)re a clapboard shanty ; then with his trunk extended, he pointed to a candle-card tacked upon a shingle, as though he would say * ]-ead,' and I read the Millers^ Ten Commandments. [. Thou shalt have no other claim than one. IT. Thou shalt not make unto thyself any false claim, or any M I \ K RS TK X CO.M>f AN DM KNTS. 41!) itcly took 10 Siivioiii" , He iinisl iiorc iiitol- t to ino on bliiuio of ly impulse, peculation, >i)beiy and iniission of straliu, has .'tween the nines. The small, con- ilation. he vices of omposition. 3nveyed in niderstand, are thrown cessary and miner, who 1 in a strange iui, and hear of his tail, d liini until ; then with ked upon a he . laim, or any likeness to a mean man, hy jiiinpiMi,' «>n<'; whatever thou fuuhNt on the top ahove, or on the ruck ItfUeuth, or in a crevieo luuler- neath the rock; — or I will visit the mimrs around to invito them on my side; and when thoy dreide jiijainst thee, thou slialt take thy piek and thy pan, thy shcn-el and thy idankcts, with all that thou hast, and 'go ]>rospeetin^'' to sciek jjfood di^ijings • hut thon shalt tind iieiie. Then, when thou hast retnrncil, in sorrow shalt thon tind th;it thine old elaim is worked out, and yet no pile made thee to hide in tlu> ground, or in an old boot ln'- neath thy hunk, or in huekskin or hottlcj underneath thy cahin ; l)Ut hast paid all that was in thy purse away, worri out thy hoots and thy garments, so that there is nothing good about them but the pockets, and thy patience is likened unto thy garments; and at last thou shalt hire thy body out to make thy board and save thy bacon. III. Tiiou shalt not go prospecting before thy claim gives out. Neither shalt thou take thy monciv, nor thy gold-dust, nor thy good name, to the gamingtable in vain; for monte, twenty-one, roulette, faro, lanscpienet and poker, will prove to thee tiiat the more thou pnttest down the less thou shalt take up; and when thou thinkest of thy wife and children, thou shalt not hohl thy- self guiltless — but insane. IV. Thou shalt not remendter what thy friends do at home on the Sabbath day, lest the remendjrance may ncjt compare favour- ably with what thou doest here. — Six days thou mayest dig or ])ick all that thy body can stand under; but the other day is Sunday ; yet thou washest all thy dirty shirts, darnest all thy stockings, tap- pest thy boots, mendest thy clothing, choppest thy whole week's lirewood, makest up and Ijakest thy bread, and boilest tliy pork and beans, that thon wait not when thou returnest from thy long-torn weary. For in six days' labour only thou canst not work enough to wear out thy body in two years; but if thou workest hard on Sunday also, thou canst do it in six months; and thou, and thy son, and thy daughter, thy male friend aiul tiiy female friend, thy morals and thy conscience, be none the better for it, ))ut reproach thee shouldst thou ever return with thy worn-out body to thy mother's fireside ; antl thou shalt not strive £ £ 2 420 MINKIIS' TKN COM.MAXDMKXTS. to Justify thyself, berausf the trader and the blacksmith, the carpenter and the nienihant, the tailors, J(!ws and buccaneers, defy (iod and civili/ation, by keeping' not the Sabbath day, nor wish f(»r a day of rest, «uch as nieniory, youth, and home nuvdt! hallowed. V. Thou ftlialt not think more of all thy ^old, and how thou canst make it fastest, than how thou wilt enjoy it, after thou hast ridden rou«,'h-shod over thy j^ood old parents' precepts and examples, that thou mayest have nothini,' to reproach and stiiii; thee, when thou art left alone in the land where thy father'.s blessing and thy mother's love hath sent thee. Vr. Thcju shalt not kill thy body l)y working in the rain, even though thou shalt make enough to buy physic and attendanc(! with. Neither shalt thou kill thy neighbour's body in a duel ; for by 'keeping cool,' thou canst save his life and thy consci- ence. Neither shalt thou destroy thyself by getting 'tight,' nor ' slewed,' nor ' high,' nor ' corned,' nor ' half-seas over,' nor 'three sheets in the wind,' by drinking smoothly down — 'brandy slings,' 'gin cocktails,' 'whisky punches,' * rum tod- dies,' nor 'egg nogs.' Neither shalt thou suck 'mint juleps,' nor 'sherry cobblers,' through a straw; nor gurgle from a bottle the 'raw material,' nor 'take it neat' fiom a decanter; fur while thou art swallowing down tliy purse, and thy coat from otT thy back, thou art burning the coat from off thy stomach ; and, it" thou couldst see the houses and lands, and gold-dust, and home comforts already lying there — ' a huge pile ' — thou shouldst feel a choking in thy throat; and when to that thou addest thy crooked walkings and hiccuping talkings, of lodgings in the gut- ter, of broilings in the sun, of prospect-holes half full of water, and of shafts and ditches, from which thou hast emerged like a drowned rat, thou wilt feel disgusted with thyself and enquire, 'Is thy servant a dog that he doeth these things?' verily I will say, farewell, old bottle, I will kiss thy gurgling lips no more. And thou, slings, cocktails, punches, snuishes, cobblers, nogs, tod- dies, sangarees, and juleps, for ever farewell ; thy remembrance shames me; henceforth ' I cut thy acquaintance,' and hea laches, tremblings, heart-burnings, blue devils, and all the unholy cata- logue of evils that follow in thy train. INly wife's smiles and I MINKRS TI:N fUMMAXDMKNTS. 421 ^niitli, tin? mcciin«'t'rs, h (lay, iioi* oiuu nmcU! how tlinll iiftcr tlioii L'C(.'pts Ulltl i and stiii!^ liy father's ! raiii, even atten(Iaiu'(! in a iliiel ; t!iy eoiiHfi- in<i; 'tit^'ht,' St 'as over,' ly down — * rum tod- int juU'ps,' )xn a botthi ;anter; for it from otT iiac'h ; and, -dust, and ou shouhlst addest thy u tilt' gut- of water, ^ed like a id enquire, erily I will no more, nogs, tod- nenihrance hea laelies, ilioly eata- miles and rg. my cliildnn's merry-hearted laugh shrdl charm and reward me lor ji.iviiig the manly firmness and courage to say no. I wish Ihcf an eternal farewell. VII. Thou shalt not grow discotu'aged, nor think of going home hefort! thou hast made thy 'pile,' ht-eause thou hast not 'sliuek a lead,' nor found a 'rich ereviee,' nor .sunk a hole uj)on u 'pocket,' lest in going home thou shalt leave four dol- lars a day, and go to work, ashamed, at fifty cents, and si'rve thee right; for thou knowest by staying here, thou mightest strike a lead and fifty dollars a day, atid keep thy manly self-respect, and ^ then go honm with enough to make thyself and others happy. Vlir. Thou shalt not steal a pick, or a shovel, or a pan from thy fellow-miner; nor take away his tools without his leave, nor borrow those he cannot spare, nor return them broken, nor trouble him to fetch them back again, nor talk with him while his water-rent is rtuming on, nor remov(! his stake to enlarge thy claim, or undermine his bank in following a lead, nor pan out •'old from his * riffh; box,' nor wash the 'tailing's' from his sluict^s mouth. Neitlier shalt thou pick out specimens from the company's pan to put them in thy mouth, or in thy purse ; nor cheat thy partner of his share: nor steal from tliy cabin-mate his gold-dust, to add to thine; for he will be sure to discover what thou hast done, and will straightway call his fellow-miners together, and if the law hinder them not, they will hang thee, or give thee fifty lashes, or shave tliy liead and brand thee like a horse-thief, with 'K' upon thy cheek, to be known and read of all nu'ii, Californians in particular. IX. Thou shalt not tell any false tales about 'good diggings in the mountains' to thy neighbour, that thou mayest benefit a friend who liath mules, and provisions, and tools, and blankets, he cannot sell, — lest in deceiving thy neighbour, when he return- eth through the snow with noTight save his rifle, he present thee with the contents thereof, and, like a dog, thou shalt fall down and die. X. Thou shalt not commit unsuitable matrimony, nor covet 'single l)lessedness;' nor forget absent maidens; nor neglect thy ' first love;' but thou shalt consider how faithfully and pa- tiently she awaiteth thy return ; yea, and covereth each epistle 422 JILXEKS' TEX COM.ArAND:^IENTS. that tliou seiidcst with kisses of kindly welcome — until she hath thyself. Neither shalt thou covet thy neighbour's wife, nor trifle with the affections of his dauj^hter; yet, if thy heart be free, and thou dost love and covet each other, thou shalt 'pop the (juestion' like a man, lest another, more manly than thou art, shoiild step in before thee, and tln)U love her in vain, and, in the anguish of tliy heart's disappointment, thou shalt quote the lan- guage of the great, and say, ' Sich is life ;' and th}' future lot be that of a poor, lonely, despised, and comfortless bachelor. A new commandment I give imto thee — If thou hast a wife and little ones, that thou lovest dearer than thy life, — that thou keep them continually before thee, to cheer and urge thee on- ward, until thou canst say, 'I have enough-- God bless them ! — I will return.' Then, tas thou journeyest towards thy much-loved home, with open arms shall they come forth to welcome thee, and, falling upon thy neck, weep tears of unutterable joy that thou art come; then in the fulness of thy heart's gratitude, thou shalt kneel together before thy ifeavenly Father, to thank Him for thy safe return. AMEN — »So mote it be. j 4'j;^ il she hath ?, nor trifle :t be free, : ' pop the 1 thou art, and, in the te the hm- ture lot be el or. Iiast a wife -that thou e thee on- is them ! — nuch-loved 3ome thee, le joy that itude, thou thank Him CHAPTER XVI. TIIR INDIANS OF VANCOUVER ISLAND AND BRITISH COLUMBIA. Theories as to tlieir Origin — Tlioir probable Mipration from Asia — Names and Occupations of Tiibes — Their Ideas of Hank — The ' I'othitch ' — Feasts — Drauiatic Ivxhibitions — Mysteries of 'Khiqidhi' — Hectiou of a 'Medi- cine Man' — Cannibals — Converse with the .Man in the Moon — Doctors and the Ileiilinir Art — Incantation — "Witchcraft — Ideas of Ueautv — Treatin<r for Peace — An Indian ^'illag•e — Gambling — Heraldry — Credulity — ("ourtship and Marriage — Sepulture — lUmiing the Dead — Catching Orasshoppers— IJain-malving — Tradition of the Creation — The Vale and his Doings — The Flood — The Sim-i:iofjnis — Theory of Thunder and Lightning — Iitil'';nous IJeliefs of the Fishing Tribes — Treachery and ] iloodthirstiness of tlie Indians — Massacres of Whites — Exciting Encounter of Sir .1. Douglas — Catholic Missions to the Natives — The Sign of tlio Cross — Awkward Predicament of Bishop Hills — Papal ' Self-interpreting liible ' — Protestant Mission to the Tchimseans — Good Work of Mr. Duncan — The Opposition of Medicine Parties — Establishment of Met-la- kat-hih — Treatment of rnreformed ' Tillicums ' — (iovernnu'ut and Pro- sperity of the Native Setth lent — Ingenuity of the Tril)es — Civiliviation and Evangelisation should go hand in hand — Papid Diminution and threatened h'xtinction of Primitive Tribes — Paces not likely to disappear have the first Claim upon Missionaries — Chances of a barbarous People The origin of the aborigines of Amei'ica is enveloped in inipenetral)lo mystery. Learned and ingenious eonjec- tures innumerable have been advanced on the subject. But, as m other speculative enquiries Avliere correct data are unattainable, ethnologists and antiquaries have arrived at conilicthig deductions, and only rendered more obvious the perplexing and uncertain nature of their investigations. Writers of a theological bias have maintained the tlieory that the Indians are of Jewish urigin, — sui)posing them 424 TJIt:01lIES AS TO THE to be dosccndauts of tliat portion of tlie Hebrews known ns tlie lost tribes. Deriving assistance from this o[)inion, Joseph Smith succeeded in fabricating the Mormon im- ])()sture ; and duped liis credulous followers by the alle- gation that the Latter-day Saint Bible was a transcript of certain buried documents, Avhich he had discovered, con- taining authentic records of the Divine will. Tliese, he asserted, had been transmitted to the primitive inhabit- ants of the Westei'n Continent by their Hebrew ancestors, and brought to the country when the former emigrated from the East. In the * Letters ' of Catlin, and especially in the refer- ence of that writer to the Indians west of the Mississippi, this view of the orii2;in of the red man is adv^ocated. In 8up])ort of it, resemblances between some North American tril)es and the ancient Jews in modes of worship, feasts, sacrifices, fasts, traditions, lamiuaufe, and otiier ceremonies of separation and purification, are particularly pointed to. But the comparative tables of the philologist will enable any one who is ambitious of framing hypotheses on such a question to find as many analogies as he may desire, and to unite hi a common origin races now the most divergent from one another. Arguments, consequently, Avliich prove too much, arc irrelevant. The Greeks, as depicted by Homer, present correspondences, in manners and customs, with the Jews of Scripture History far more remarkable than those which the defenders of this view of Indian orisjfin have adduced as existin!]^ between the two last- mentioned races. Tliere is no more reason for identify- ing the Indians witli the Hebrews than Avith the Egyptians or the Celts. Similarity in general characteristics may be distinguished between the primitive hihabitants of the Eastern and Western Ileinispheres, but on these we simply I OIIIGIN OF THE RED MAN. 125 v^s known i opinion, ;mon ini- thc allc- nsf'i'ipt of }re(l, con- Tlicso, he 3 inliabit- ancestors, 3niiii;ratcd the refer- [ississippi, ated. In American lip, feasts, erenionies )ointed to. ill enable s on such esire, and divergent icli prove picted by 1 customs, mark able of Indian two last- identify- Egyptians 's may be ts of the ,ve simply ground the probable iinify of mmikind as proceediwi fro)n a sinijle pair. The notion lias been proponnded l)y others that the Pliopnicians or Cart/ta^/enians crossed the Atlantic and founded colonies in America. As this view, however, is e^ustained by no considerations pretending to weight, it may be dismissed without further mention. Some have attempted to solve this difTicult proljlcm by ('(Miceiving the probability of the Eastern and Western Continents being once undivided by the ocean. It is alleged that before the great severance by the de|)ression of the land or the eruption of the sea occurred, the Indian race eniiii:rated from the one section of the ulobe to the other. But this view seems beset l)y greater difficulties than those it undertakes to remove. An opinion obtains among a certain class of savans which assigns to animal races indifijeiious to the various latitudes of the globe a plurality of origins, as plants are believed to have. It is ari^ued that while ail varieties in the veo-etable kingdom foll(3w a creneral fixed tvi)e in being composed of i^teni and branches^ yet each zone of the earth contains a species originally peculiar to itself, — thus precluding the possibility of so many diversities of veaetable form and coloiu' proceediiiix from one connnou primeval seed. It is affirmed that no good scieutljh' reason exists for departing from this theory in regard to the distribution of animals, not excepting man, whose origin is said to be necessarilv included in the issues of the analoirv. 'Die lion and tiger of equatorial Africa, we are told, diO'er in colour and other respects from the creatures known by the same names in the northern parts of India. No clue can be found to their descent from original pairs of their respective kinds, nor arc there any signs (jf 426 ARGUMIiNT FUOM the dificrent ,<<pecies having migrated from a common centre. Tlic inference, tlierefore, is supposed to be in- evitable, tliat animals naturally peculiar to a certain lati- tude have spontaneousli/ arisen like the plants indigenous to the same region. It is admitted that beyond this general ])rinciple of creation, science can reveal nothing on the subject, and that the rationale of certain forms of life being uniformly evolved from specific germs is wrapt in a cloud of impenetrable mystery. The bearing of this speculation upon the origin of the diflerent races of man- kind will be obvious. Like diverse sjiecies of plants and of other animals, men, it is maintained, while one over all the world in the essential characteristics that go to dis- tinguish them as one f/enus, owe their origin, as specific races, to the action of heat and moisture upon primal ova mysteriously deposited by the Almighty in the earth. But, apart altogether from any religious tradition of the origin of man irom a single pair, the hypothesis that has just been stated will be found quite inadequate to account for all the facts connected with human development. The traditions of the Indians themselves emphatically contra- dict this ingenious history of their primary occupation of the Western Continent. The opinion which seems most in harmony with linguistic analogies and Indian traditions prevailing on the North Americiui shores of the Pacific is, that the abori- gines are of Asiatic origin, and migrated from the Eastern Continent across JJeh ring's Straits, the Aleutian and Kodiac Islands. The Indians of the interior represent their ancestors as having been formerly resident in North- Western America, and many of the present natives of Vancouver Island state that their progenitors in remote ages first landed at Sooke, — a district situated in the soutlicrn part of the colony. I common to be iii- irtain luti- [ii<;enous to lis general nrr on tlic ■ms of life 3 wrapt in Lng of tliis cs of man- plants and ne over all : go to (lis- as specific primal ova the earth, tion of the sis that has to acconnt nient. Tlie illy contra- iupation of nony with inf]i: on the tlie abori- lie Eastern ind Kodiac 3sent their in North - natives of in remote ted in the LINGUISTIC ANALO(ili:S. 427 Tliere is as mncli reason to believe that America was ])eo[)led from Asia as that tlie primitive races of Euroj)e and Africa shonld derive their oriuin from an eastern source. A gentleman who has lived among the Indians on the Pacilic coast for i.raiiy twenty years, and is i'ami- liar with several of their dialects, ^ives it as his convic- tion, based on extensive observation, that the l(mt/U(f(/('.^ of the aborigines of British Columbia, Vancouver Island, liussian America, and the Kodiac Islands, gradutilly merge into one another, and that a similar tendency to the G:radiiallv l)lendinf; of Indians and Monuolians in facial ch(ir(irteriHt'iCf< is perceptible in the same direction. I have had no opportunity of verifying this statement, — but could it be substantiated by systematic investigation, the settlement of the question of Indian origin would be greatly accelerated. No object more interesting could be proposed to modern scienlilic research, and should the undertaking be attended with the success antici]Kited, an important accession to the accumulating evidence in favour of the common origin of mankind would thus be supplied. Mr. Max Muller has clearly demonstrated the centralization of the languages of the Eastern Continent in the Aryan original ; and kSir Charles Ly ell — notwith- standing his manifest sympathies with the views of such comparative anatomists as Darwin and Huxley, who seem disposed to doubt the commonly-received doctrine of descent from a single human })air — frankly admits that that theory of the origin of our race is at least as satis- factory as any other that has been advanced. Jkit let the aborioinal lanr^uaszes of the Western Continent be shown to converge towards the Aryan centre, and thei-e is no more essential ])roof of the unity of the hmnan family left to be desired. Philological and ethnological explorations in Africa and Polynesia might then be prosecuted at 428 TlilKUITORIAL LIMITS OF TIIK TIUBES. leisure. Tlie results of these would unquestionably 1)C viiluable ; but the main question having thus been pre- viously het at rest, they might be viewed only as con- firmatory of conclusions already established. Without minutely classifying the primitive races of these colonies according to their different ' nations,' it may be mentioned generally that the tribes which occu])y Vancouver Island are called Nootka Columbians. This desiirnation includes all the tribes on the coast of the mauiland as far as the Columbia Eiver. The jhhint/ tribes, who inhabit the coast— as is found to be the case with races residing on the seaboard of Africa, China, and India — are marked by a physique inferior to that pos- sessed by the hunting tribes of tlie interior. The former are stunted and move with a lazy waddling gait ; and this peculiarity is acquired by the sitting posture to which they are habituated in their canoes, M'hile die active life culti- vated by the latter in the chase imparts; to them an erect bearing. Scarcely two authorities are agreed respecting the pre- cise territorial limits of tribes dwellini^ in British Columbia, k^ome writers have regarded the entire number of natives ()ccu])ying this colony as consisting of two great nations ; the Takali or Carriers in the north, and the Atnahs or Shuswaps further south. Some have divided them into Chilic(~)atens, Kuzlakes, Naskoatens, Talkoatens, and At- nahs or Chin Indians. Others have designated them by still different names, or assigned them boundaries widely diverse. Indeed, the Indian notions on the subject are quite as crude and indefuiite as those of the whites. Nor is it at all a matter of practical moment, shice in addressing these races it will be found a sufficient lincjual attain- ment to have mastered the terms ' Siwash " and ' Clootch- man,' these being well understood by all, and as likely TKSTS OF RANK. 421) tioiiably be s been pre- nly as con- re races of ons,' it may icli occii])y )ians. This joast of tlie riic jhhiwi be the case China, and to that pos- Tlie former it ; and tliis ) wliich they ve hfe ciilti- em an erect ing the prc- i Cohmibia. r of natives cat nations ; Atnalis or I them into ns, and At- ed them by iries widely subject are liites. Xor addressinc^ ual attain- rr d ' Clootcli- d as hkcly to insure attention as words expressive of individual or national identity. The natives on the east side of Vancouver Island, Queen Charlotte Island, and British Columbia are estimated at 30,000 ; the ratio of tl.eir natural increase, however, being on the decline. This process of diminution is especially remaikable in lods^es contijjfuous to white settlements. Each village or tribe is governed by a ' Tyhee ' oi- chief, whose authority, though somewhat arbitrary, does not seem to be very extensive or well defined, being as much dependent on personal prowess and wealth as on any fixed rules or hereditary rights. The auKnuit of property possessed by these S(i</(iiiiore.s, such as canoes, horses, blankets, guns, wives, slaves, &c., mostly deter- mines the extent of their inlluence and consequent autho- rity, not only with their own peo[)le, but also with their neighbours. 13y the same rule is measured the degree of honour to be awarded them after death. Besides these leading men, there are Sitkaiii Tyhees, or half chiefs, who as vassals aid the ]^rincipals in the discharge of their duties, or act for them in their absence. The natives judge of rank by two tests in particular — the number of scalps and slaves taken in battle, and the amount of property accumulated. The latter symbol of power is eagerly C(3veted by them ; and as blankets havci come generally to be the chief representation of wetilth, these are accmnulated against the recurrence of the feasts of the tribe, when an opportunity is afforded of dis- ])laying the extent of individual resources. The j)rinci- pal motive to the acquisition of property by the Indian is j.ot, as among whites, that the owner may become srvrounded with conveniences and luxuries, or that he inuy obtain credit among his neighbours for possessing sc» nuu'h dui'ing life, and bequeath his means to heirs at his 430 TIIK I'OTLATCir. (lecoasc, but tliiit lie may enjoy tlic satisCjictiou of lavish- iiiLi presents u|)()n tlie nienibers of iViendly tril)(;s on tlie occasions just mentioned, and of being adniii'cd l)y the recipients. Festive ceremonies are lield for the purpose of celebrat- ing some auspicious event that may have happened to a, chief; giving vent to their joy at the commencement of the salmon season, or of the new year. Tlu^ tSonghish tribe, resident near Victoria, hold a general merry-making annually in the month of October, when singular customs are practised, of which the indiscriminate distribution of ])r()perty is not the least prominent. For days beforehand invited guests come in their canoes, sometimes hundreds of miles, to be present. The sound of revelry is unceas- ing in the encampment, lium, rice, molasses, and the Indian delicacies of the season, such as venison, fish, ber- ries, (uid grease, circulate in ])rofusion among the congiv- gated multitude at the expense of the chief and Tena.ss 7]y/ctv.9 of the neighbourhood. The potlfitch (or ceremony of bestowing gifts) usually occu[)ies a couple of days, and is conducted in a similarly ui)roari()us manner. It is worthy to be remarked, that Indians of the same denomination or crest are not in the habit of sharing in the interchaiir/t; of il'ift'^' I use the latter expression advisedly, for in making a present an Indian expects a reciprocation of the favour to an equal value at the next feast, and. Jailing the realisation of his wishes, he does not hesitate to demand his aift back au'ain. The business of the first day consists in listening to speeches of the feast from those who have extensive pro- perty to give away. These are ostentatious relations of the costliness of the articles to be disposed of, and of the senti- ments of regard for the guests which is professedly enter- tained. Previous to i\\e})otlatch^t\\Q gifts to be presented are OTHMR FKAST.t*. 4:^1 of lavisli- ' tribos oil iduiircd by of celc'brat- )poiie(l to !i, jnceineiit ol" (i SoHLjliisli Try-muking liar customs itril)uti()ii of I beforehand cs liuiidreds y is unceas- 5es, and the )n, fish, ber- tlie cono'iv- and Tenass )r ceremony 'days, and is It is wort) ly ^nomination iuterchaiuje edly, for in )rocation of and, faihn^' hesitiite to hstcning to tensive pro- ations of the of tlie senti- isedly enter- resented are pubhcly exliibited, to impress tlie muUitude willi a due sense of tlie opulence fuid munificence of the donor. Cotton cloths by hundreds of yards, blankets to the value of hundreds of [)ounds, and the rarest furs, are spread out for inspection, and then given away in succession. In some instances, blaid<ets are torn u[) in narrow stri[)s, and the pieces scrambled for by the spectators. I remember a female slave to have changed hands in this comijliment- ary way at the Songhish feast held in 'Go. No example of the chartist principles of ' equality and fraternity ' could be more interesting and complete. Once every year the individuals of the tribe start, even, in point of substance ; but it is unfortunate for the practical exempli- lication of the revolutionary theory referred to — as far as the Indians are concerned — that those who are rich and poor res[)ectively at one feast are almost invariably found in the same category at the next. In a commercial as- pect, too, this system o( p<>tlati'/iin</ is highly objectionable, lor the ii'oods thus transferred from year to year are not appro[)riated for the most part to useful puiposes ; neither is there any stimulus given to the development of [)ro- litable trade in the transaction. Feasts are often given by individual chiefs (nuile and female) on a less magnilicent scale. Sometimes a fenialt! chief will entertain a large number of men, and on other occasions a male chief will invite a party of female guests to share his hospitality. To enumerate the grotesque antics prevalent on these gala occasions would be a tax on the patience of the reader. The use of pigments and masks representing the faces of various animals ; head- dresses composed of fur, feathers, ribbons, and mother-of- pearl in every imaginable arrangement ; robes adorned with beads and buttons : these are among the articles of festal attire. 432 DIJAMATIC KXIIIIUTIO.NS, Drnmatlc rxliibitions form part of tlicii* anniscnionts, tlio comic as well as the tragic muse lu'liit' invoked hv them. But the acting, as I'ai- as I havi' been ahli- lo ascertain, is generally of the solo character. Ueroui deeds of ancesti'al chiefs are I'ccounted, and words of th(! departed ai'c repeated with consideraljlegesticnlation, tlu! assembly interposing some kind of chanted chorus, lunided down fi'om sire to sire for ages. In passing the Indian quarters one winter eveniuL; at an advanced hour, my attention was called to a large; apartment from which the sound of singing ])roceeded, Tlu! door was ke])t by some niitive lads, who at once recognised my profession by the colour of my necktie. 'Le Pretre! le Tretre!' was whis[)ered by one to another, and they made \\ ly for me to enter. The building I found to be quadrangular, and measuring about 85 feet. The majority of those j)resent included men, but the di'dmati'^ j)er8once were taken by Avomen. The central s[)ace was fi'ce, and the audience acconnnodated at the sides. A hirge fire served the twofold object of su[)[)lying light and lieat. rianks were extended round the buildinii; in front of the spectators, who were nearly all provided with short sticks, witli whicli they beat time upon the boards befoi'o them to the choral snatches that were occasionally inter- posed in course of the entertainment. A female actor was on the floor when I entered. Her movements were tragic ; her hair was dishevelled ; and her pathetic tones and stately march from one direction to another gradually changed into song and dance, when the accompaniment of beating and chorus was struck up by the people. Soon another actor followed in a similar manner. Since the arrival of the whites, the professions, trades, and social habits of the latter afford scope for the comic l)owers of the Indians to travcstie. Even the sacred func- ' KLL(/roLI.A. • >i) Ul^ClUl'llts, iv<)k('tl by HI able I') llcroit; )rds of tin- lation, tli(! us, handed t'VC'IlillU !lt to a larjic; proceeded. lO at ouco ly necktie, to another, njx I (bund feet. The dm mat i'^ si)aco wad sides. A liiiht and uj in front with slioi't xrds befoi'C ally inter- niale actor nents were letic tones gradually animent of )le. Soon )ns, trades, the comic icrcd func- tions of the cler.iry are not exempt I'rom builes(tue in liusi' di'Minatic representations. Anioii'jf the most notable of Tnditni customs is the initia- tion of a ''andidate into the mysteries of • Khi((uolIa.' It is from those who succeed in undei'iioinu the inllii'tion connected with jidmis-^ion to the advantages peculiar to this rite that 'medicine-inen ' an- selected. 'J'lie aspirant to tliis priviicj^c and lioiiniir (writes an vyv- wituess of tliis ceromoiiy) lias to .siil)init to ii vrry .severe pre|»a- ratory ordeal, lie is removed from liis own dwelling!; I)y a party of those who are alreaily khupiollas, and led to a Imt set apart for Ills special use. The first ceremony consists in cMttin^f the arteries under the ton<'ne, and allowin<' the Ithiod to How over his liody, the face Ijcini,', meanwhik', covered with a mask. After this an opiate is administered, which induces a state; of nnconsciousness, in whicli he is allowed to remain two days. At the en(^ of this time lie is phuiged, or rather thrown, headloiiL;- into the water to arouse him. As soon as he is fully awake, he rushes on shore, and, as a rule, seizes tlie tirst doi,' lie perceives witii his teeth, tears, lacerates, a!id even devours a piu'tion of it. — at least, so I have been crethhly informed. I can only speak from personal ohservation as to some portions of the sini;ular ceremonies in practice on these occasions, as the Indians are veryjeahjus of any interference on tiie part of a white man. He .also bites any of his fellows wiiom Ik; may meet with. It is said that they who are already khuiuollas esteem it rather an honour to be thus bitten, lb; is now seized, bound with ropes, and led like a captive, hy tlie party in charge of him, tiiree times a day round the village during a period of seven days, a rattle proilucing a dreadful noise being constantly agitated hefore liim. At this time he bites and stabs indiscriminately every one he comes across ; and as he certainly woidd not spare a white man if he happened to meet him in the camp, I took good care to keep both my own person and that of a favourite little dog out of his reach.* * Captain l>arrctt Lfiiiiimt'.-s I'dc/U Voi/ai/r, \^. '>-. V V IMAGE EVALUATION 1EST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 liL|28 |2.5 ^ 1^ {||2-2 lu i!^ 1^ IIIIIM 1.4 6" 1.8 1.6 V^ A y /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 "AT, ^s r/j 1^ r^A medicini>mi:n' This account I uiKlLTstaiid to reloi' to tlic I'itc as prac- tised on tluj West Coast of Vanouvei- Island. It being deemed by the Indians the most important of tlieir cei'c- nionies, tlio retider will not object to the perusal of tlie following passage on the subject from the corres])ondencc of a u;entleman whose long residence aniouLi" the northern tri]:)es entitles him to be heard. An old chief, in cold blood, ordered a slave to he driii;-i;'ed to tlie heacli, iinu-dered, and thrown into the water. His orders were quickly ohejed. The victim was a poor woman. Twi) or three reasons are assigned for this foul act; one is, that it is to take away the diso-race attached to his daugliter, \\lio lias lieeii suffering some time from a l)all wound in the arm. Another report is, that he does not exjject his daughter to recover, so he has killed his slave in order that she may prepare for the coming of iiis dauyhter into tlie un^■■een worhl. I did n(.)t see the mnrder, hut immediately after I saw crowds of people rnnnin^- ont of those houses near to wdiere the corpse was thrown, and forming tiiemselves into gronps at a good dis- tance away. This I learnt was from, fear of wliat waste follow. Presently two l)ands of furious wretches appeared, each headed by a man in a state of nudity. They gave vent to the most imearthly sounds, and the two naked men made tlietnselves look as unearthly as possible, proceeding in a creeping kind of stoop, and stepping like two proud horses, at the same time shooting forward each arm alternately, which they held out at full length for a little time in the most defiant manner. Besides this, the contimud jerking their heads back, causing their long black hair to twist about, added much to their savage appearance. For some time they pretended to be seeking the Ijody, and the instant they came where it lay they conunenced screaming, and rushing roiuul it like so many angry wolves. Finally they seized it, dragged it out of the water, and laid it on the beach, where I was told the naked men would commence tearing it to pieces with their teeth. The two bands of men immediately surrounded them, and so hid their horrid work. In a few minutes tlie crowd broke again into two, when each of the naked AND TIIi:iR ATUOCITIES. 135 itc as prac- . It l)ciiig their ct3re- L-iisal of the ■C8])C)lKleUCC lie iiortlicni le drnL>-,!:;efI to Kis orders van. Two or 1, thiit it is to wlio li:is bec'U ui. Another recover, so he or the coming I saw crowds ere the corpse at a good dis- was to fcjllow. , each headed to tlie most einselves h)ol<; Ivind of stoop, time shooting at full length ■sides this, tlie ir long hhick ipearance. the body, and cd screaming. Finally they on tlie Leach, ;c tearing it to immediately •k. In a few 1 of the naked cannibals appeared with halt of the body in his hands. 8ef>a- rating a few yards, they commenced, amid horrid yells, their still more horrid feast. The sight was too terrible to behold. I left the gallery with a depressed heart. I may mention tluit the two bands of savages just alluded to belong to that class which the whites term * medicine-men.' The superstitions con- nected with this fearful system arc deeply rooted here; and it is the admitting and initiating of fresh pupils into these arts that employ numbers, and excite and interest all, during the winter months. Tliis year I think there must have been (Mght or ten parties of them; but each party has seldom more than one pupil at once. In relating their proceedings, I can give but a fabit conception of the system as a.whole; but still a little will serve to show the dense darkness that rests on this place. I may mention that each party has some characteristics peculiar to itself; but, in a more general sense, their divisicjus are but three, viz., those who eat human bodies, the dog- eaters, and those who liave no custom of the kind. Early in the morning the pupils would be out on the beacli, or on the rocks, in a state of nudity. Each had a place in front of his own tribe: nor did intense cold interfere in the slightest degree. After the poor creature had crept about, jerking his head and screaming for some time, a party of men would rush out, and, after surrounding him, woidd commence singing. The dog-eating party occasionally carried a dead dog to their pupil, who forthwith commenced to tear it in the most doglike manner. The party of attendants kept up a low growling noise, or a whoop, which was seconded by a screeching noise made from an instrument which they believe to l)e the abode of a spirit. In a little time the naked youth would start up again, and proceed a few more yards in a crouching posture, with his arms pushed out behind him, and tossing his flowing black hair. All the while he is earnestly watched by the group annmd him, and when he pleases t(j sit down they again surround him and commence singing. This kind of thing goes on, with several little additions, for some time, llefore the prodigy finally retires, he takes a nm into every house belonging to his tribe, and is followed l)y his train. F F 430 CAX.\IBAF.S. When this in done, in some cases he has a ramble ou the tops of the same liouses, durin-j^ wliieh he is anxiously watched l»y liis attendants, as if tliey expected his fliglit. By-and-hy he coiid«.'scends to come down, and they tlien follow him to his den, which is signified by a rope made of red bark being hung over the do(jrway, so as to prevent any person from ignorantly vio- lating its precincts. None are allowed to enter that house but those connected with the art : all I know, therefore, of their further proceedings is, that they keep up a furious hammering, singing, and screeching for hours during the day. Of all these parties, none are so much dreaded as the cannil>als. One morning I was called to witness a stir in the camp which had been caused by this set. When I reached the gallery I saw hundreds of Tchimseans sitting in their cano(,'S, Avhich they had just pushed away from the beach. I was told that the cannibal party were in search of a bo«ly to devour, and if they failed to find a dead one, it was probable they would seize the first living one that came in their way ; so that all the people living near to the cannibal's house had taken to their canoes to escape being torn to pieces. It is the custom among those Indians to burn their dead ; but I suppose for these occa- sions they take care to deposit a corpse somewhere, in order to satisfy these inhuman wretches. These, then, are some of the things and scenes which occur in the day during the winter months, while the nights are taken up with amusements — singing and dancing. Occasionally the medicine parties invite people to their several houses, and ex- hibit tricks before them of various kinds. Some of the actors appear as bears, while others wear masks, the parts of which are moved by strings. The great feature in their proceedings is to pretend to murder, and then to restore to life, and so forth. The cannibal, on such occasions, is generally supplied with two, three, or four human bodies, which he tears to pieces before his audience. Several persons, either from bravado or as a charm, present their arms for him to bite. I have seen several whom he has thus bitten, and I hear two have died from the effects. One very dark night I was told there was a moon to see on I on the tops watched by y-and-by he [\ to his den, y hung over lorantly vio- Lt house but fore, of their haniuiering, aded as the a stir in the readied the their canoes, . I was tohl ly to devour, le they wouhl ;o that all the dien to their ustom among )r these occa- e, in order to which occur its are taken casionally the uses, and ex- of the actors arts of which proceedings life, and so rally supplied ears to pieces m bravado or I have seen ave died from )on to see on KDL'CATIOX OF TlIK ALLIED. 437 tlie beach. On golug tu see, Uu-rc was an illiuniiiaied disc, with the figure of a man upon it. The water was then very low, nnd one of the conjuring parties liad lit up this disc at the water's <;dge. They had made it of wax, with great exactness, and ]>re- sently it was at the full. It was an iinp(jsing sight. Nothing could be seen around it ; but the Indians suppose that tlie medicine party are then holding converse with the man in the moon. Indeed, there is no wonder in the poor creatures being deluded, for the peculiar noises tliat were made, while nil around was perfectly still, and the good imitation of the moon while all around was enveloped in darkness, seemed just cal- culated to create wild and superstitious notions. After a short time the moon waned away, and the conjuring party returned, whooping, to their house. Before any young persons can join these medicine parties they are supposed to go into the bush for some days, and be there alone, whence they receive their supernatural gifts. JUit I am inclined to believe that this is not strictly carried out, for it is also supposed they are not visible when they come back : it therefore becomes an easy matter to conceal them in their houses for a short time, and then publish a lie. The end of all these proceedings is the giving away proj>erty ; so the cliiefs reap the benefit. Xo person need think of becoming 'allied ' until lie or his friends have amassed considerable property, and are disposed to beggar themselves. One Sunday I was startled by a peculiar noise proceeding from the camp, and, on going to see what was the cause, I observed a man, who, it seems, had finished his educaticm as an 'allied,' and was now going to give away his goods, lie was proceeding to a distant part of the camp, and stepping all the way like a proud, unmanageable horse. Behind him were about fifteen or twenty men, all holding on to a kind of rope which went round his waist. They were pretending to keep him back or hold him from taking his flight. Presently this party was joined by other two upon a similar errand, and they now seemed to try which could make the greatest noise or look the most unearthly. The three bands, after a good deal of nianoMivring, proceeded, I think, to the same chief's house. 488 JFRDICAL rRESCRIPTlOXS. Wliilo tlio class tliat luivo been <lL\scribcd arc called ' inediciiie-men,' it is not to be supposed tliat tlieir occii- ])ation consists in curing disease, nor are tliey to be coiil'ounded witli ' doctors ' who are devoted to the exercise of that art. ' Medicine-men ' are believed to be endowed with su})ernatural ability to prognosticate, and are armed with j)Ower to execute justice u])on ollenders. The su])er- stitions of the people invest the ' medicine-men ' with a degree of importance superior in many respects to that of the chief. The former being supposed to be in com- muiiication with the invisible world, his movements are anxiously watched, and his predictions revered. The medical profession embraces qualifications and duties of a distinct character. Practitioners of the healing art are usu.ally chosen from among persons who have themselves sullei'ed under some grievous malady and been restored to health, or, having been exposed to some peril in war or chase, have escaped uninjured. The greater the risk that has been run, the more competent is the individual accounted in dealing with diseases. Physical ailments and dangers are ascribed to malevolent sph'its, and the recovery of the sufferer is viewed as the result of virtue imparted from above, by which he is enabled to triumph over the invisible enemy. The prescriptions in use among certain tribes will serve to show how innocent are native doctors of medical science. The reci})e for pains in the stomach is the application of a bag of hot ashes, after a piece of damp cloth has been placed on the skin. Headache is cured by striking the patient on the part affected with small branches of the s]^ruce-tree. In case of bad wounds they employ a salve ; but the method of treating simple cuts is to touch the lips I\(".\XTATIOX. 430 arc called tlicir occii- tlioy to l)c the exercise [owed with lU'ined with The sui)er- iieii ' with a ccts to tluit I be in com- ,'cmerits arc d. cations and ^ the healing 5 who liave dy and been a some peril The jxrcater the l*hysical )lent spirits, lie result of enabled to Ds will serve of medical n etent is 3 application th has been strikini]^ the dies of the )1( )y a salve ; uch the lips of the wound with iruiii. Vov most intoi'iial C()mi)lniiits some herbal decoction is t;ikeii. When tempted to smile at tlic credulity of tluso j^odv creatui'es, our ridicule m;iy well l)e tempered with plly when it is remembei'cd that, at no very remote period, su])erstition, equally striking, prevailed in our own country as to jiiedical ti'catment. In the time of Iton-er Bacon, the leaves of an alder, on which the sun had never shone, were ])rescril)ed lor erysij)elas, and a cross made of alder and willow for epilejysy. To cure consumption, the inhabitants of some districts in Scotland tied a ]'a<i to the liuLfcr and toe niiils of the sick person, and then, having waved it thrice round liis head, buried it pi'ivately. ' liicketty children were drawn tlin^ugh a s])lit tree, which was afterwards bound up so that the severed ])arts might grow together, and the recoveiy of the diseased child Avas l)elieved to corresjiond to the restoi'ation of the tree. A cure for hoo])ing-cougli was found in moimting the patient on a black a-s, led nine times round an oak tree, or sometimes in uivinu' tlie hair of the child, rolled up in butter, to a dog.'* When other I'emedies prove ineflectual, incantation is resorted to by the Indians. The instrument used for this purpose is sometimes made of three or f )ui' dozen bills of the horned puflin strung together. A noise is produced by small stones put within this I'attle, which is kept in a wdiirlins^ motion round the patient while a sonix is suiiu'. During the operation, the ear or mouth of the doctor is occasionally a})plied to the seat of the disorder. It is usual at this stage to cauterise the part with ignited tinder made of dried flax, or make an incision. If lelief follow^s, the doctor announces the diseased element to have been extracted — t/idt havinu' been inserted in the ' JifDIIlrntlf/fl Dlllls'tOllS, ]i. 17. 410 ]5I:MI:F in WITfllCUAFT. invalid's system, as it is believed, by some evil agent. On lliis iutelligenee being published to the iriends of the j)utient, it is customaiy for them, in exj)ression of their gnititude, to reward the disci[)le of I'^^culapius with what- ever })roperty tliey may ])ossess. Should a rela])se ensue, liowever, and the patient die, the doetor is obhged to return tdl lie lias received. When intensely exeited in the ])erformance of his pi'o- fessional duties, lie pi'etends that he is eogiiisant of the shape and position of the patient's spirit. To facilitate this clairvoijaiice, the doetor closes his eyes for some time, and afterwards ])ronouiices his opinion. Either he per- ceives the soul to be in its natural place, which is a hopefid symptom, or longing to depart, which renders the prospect of recovery doubtful ; or he finds that it has taken its llight, wdiicli i)laces the condition of the patient beyond hope. Some of these bold deceivers have not hesitated to declare the result of this supernatural inspec- tion of the spirit to be that it resembled a fly in api)ear- ance, having a long curved proboscis ! Belief ill witchcraft is prevalent among these people, though in this respect they are not more superstitious than were our ancestors in the reign of James I., when a storm, which threatened the lives of that monarch and his bride on their voyage i'rom Denmark, was gravely ascribed to the instrumentality of a i)erson in the south of Scotland, suspected of being in collusion with infernal spirits. Tlie Tchimseans and other Indian tribes charge the cause of all physical ailments, and frequently of death, upon the secret agency of malevolence. Should the victim of some supi)osed machination be a man of distinction in his clan, and die — especially in a sudden manner — the friend of the deceased arbitrarily pitch upon some slave, stranger just arrived in the camp, or other individual with whom IDHAS OF PiniSOXAL IJI^AL'TY, 441 igent. On ids of the »ii of tlieir witli "wluit- [i])sc ensue, obliged to of his pi'o- >ant of tlie \) facilitate some time, er he i)er- A'liich is a renders the that it has tlie patient s have not iral inspec- in appear- esc people, .iperstitioiis , wlien a ch and his y ascribed ;' k^cotland, irits. e the cause upon the im of some n his clan, e friend of e, stranujer vitli whom tlie departed may liave been recently at variance, as accessory to tlie deed ; and nothing short of the life of the imagined culprit will satisfy the demands of the bereaved. It is believed that the sorcerer effects his purpose eithi'r by magic, or the stealthy introduction of poison into the system of the sick man. The result of these notions is that mutual distrust is pei'petually liable to be produced among the members c»f the several tribes ; and I have been informed that the death of certain employes of the Hudson's JJay Company was occasioned by some kindred superstition, at a ibrt on the mainland, many years ago. When two natives quarrel, the most successful mode of giving effect to anger is for the one to predict the death of the other in the phrase, ^By-and-hy, you ivill die;' and it often hai)pens that the terror this announcement awakens secures its own fulfilment. When this occurs, the malicious ])rophet has usually to expiate his indiscre- tion with his life. Their ideas of personal beauty receive an odd illustra- tion ill the llattening of the head — a practice which prevails on the north-west coast, from latitude 53° 30' to latitude 4G°. This process of compression is sini])le. The child, as soon as born, is placed in a cradle scooped out of a log of timber. This rude ark is flat at the bottom, and raised at the point where the neck of the child ^'\sts. A flat stone is fastened to the head of the infu. ai this posture by thin strips of twisted bark. In the situation indicated the child is kept till able to walk, and its fore- head has been moulded into the desired shape. Indian women are sometimes to be met with in the Quatsino district with sculls of a tapering or conical form, produced by artificial means, similarly disgusting with those already mentioned. It is to the fiunilics of chiefs and Toiass i[2 FA('i: (,»ILVAM[:XTS. Tillicrs (LfcniliMiu.'ii commoncr.s !) tliat tliis privilege is iiloiio ])orinitU'(l. Tliouuilc SOX uru uvorsu to cultivnting liii'sute develop- iiu'iits oil llie luce in Jiiiy fUshion, and generally ])lu('k ouL by liie roots luiirs that, if left to grow, would assume the I'orni ol' whiskers, beard, or moustache. Females are passionately ibnd of facial ornaments, which are often hideous in proportion to their rank. A ])iece of mother-o'-pcarl, suspended I'rom a puncture; in the cartilage of the nose, is occasionally worn, and tlu; siune kind of a])pendage is used for cairings. Even the chin sometimes ai)pears repulsive I'rom native decoration. Some wear a small piece of bone or a silver tube ])rojecte(l half way through a slit prepared to receive it. Others — of higher station, I presume — have the under lip dis- tended in an oll'ensive mannei", by a piece of bone of considerable thickness placed between the lower j;iw and the upper part of the chin inside. Through the space created in the mouth by this distension, I have heard old Indian hags amuse themselves by whistling, the sound thus produced being of an unearthly chai'acter. ]3racelets and anklets of brass are profusely displayed by the native women. The hair of an Indian is never cut short, as short hair is deemed by them a badge of slavery. Tattooiiiix exists among some of the northern tribes. Pigments are in universal demand, many of the females painting their faces on all occasions, but the men only at set periods. Vermilion is used in great quantities on their red-letter days, and is readily disposed of to natives by the whites as an article of barter. Their war-paint is blacky and is manufactured by themselves. This colour, while invariably employed in battle, is also worn as a badii'e of moiu'ning. A.V INniAX VILLACli: li: )rivik'gc is te dcvc'lop- ; ])lii('k out ussuuie the ornaments, r rank. A mncturo in rn, and tlio Even the decoration- )e ])rojected Otliers — ler lip dis- ol' bone of er jtiAv (uid 1 the space 3 lieard old the sound ]5racelets ' tlie native . short hair ern tribes, he IVimales len only at intities on to natives ^ar-paint is his colour, worn as a Tomahawks, ufuns, ])istols, bowsjind arrows — the latter headed with iron or ll'iit — arc; theii" pi'incipal wi'apons. When eontendinj^f tribes wisli tor peace, they despati'h an end)assy bearin;^' to the enemy a pipe formed of wood or stone adorned with paint and white corals as an emblem of truce, and so unfeigned is the respect with wliich the l)earer of this si;_nial is treated, that any insult done him is visited widi death. The solemnisation of a treaty of ])eace is often celebi-ated by the smoking of a pipe on the |)art of the belligerent chiefs. Since the advent of civilisiition in their neiuhbourhood, the rude and indecently slender covering of native manu- facture, which Ibrmerly ])rotected their persons, has been exchanged for shirts and blankets. Their ordinary food, in addition to fish and wild animals, includes jjotatoes, ground-nuts, acorns, lily-roots, 6i.c. An Indian vilhiixe consists of an assemblaGie of huts arranged in a line, varying from KK) to oOO feet in lengtli, and from 50 to 100 feet in breadth. The framework is composed of posts and beams often of inunense j)i'0])or- tions. The heavy logs and thick plank boarding they use are readily obtained from surrounding Ibrests. A conuuon roof covers the structure, of sullicient ])itcli t(j allow the rain to drop i'rom it. One such establishment contains 20 or 30 families, each of these being accom- modated with a separate compartment. The chief resides at the upper end, the proximity of his relatives to him beini; according; to their de2;rce of kindred. A village of this description, however, is only a temporary encamj)- ment. Every tribe has several such habitations, their locality being determined by the facilities aflbrded for the pursuit of lishing and hunting avocations by the adjacent region at particidar seasons of the year. When an Indian family shifts their quarters their Lares and Penates travel 4U (lAMIlLIXfl — IIKIlALDnY. with tlu.'in, and only the skeleton t»t' their dwrllinj; is left behind. Wiien [Kissing tlie l)ii;hts on tlie coast margin between Victoria and Salt Sj)ring, (hiring the salmon j)eriod, I have seen families (.'iieamped in such |)laces with no more shelter than their canoes could supply, and felt ititerested in liearing from these secluded nooks the crow- ing of cocks, that formed j)art of their p()rtal)le chattels. One of their favourite sources of anuisement is gam- bling. An Indian is so susceptible of excitement fi'om this vice as often to stake every article in liis possession to the very shirt on his back. Though having sevei'al times liad an oj)portunity of observing the game, I could never ascertain distinctly liow it was conducted. A group forming a circle is seated on the groimd, and a uumber of small ])ieces of polished stick, resembling short pencils, are used by them. These are dealt out to the ])layers, and amidst a monotonous Inun and constant mo- tion of the hands kept up to this barbarous sound, these sticks are thrown from one liand to another till some one guesses who ha})pens to be the holder of the tramp stick. A system of heraldry obtains among them, which, as distinguished from those purely ornamental props of family pride called escutcheons prevailing in civilised connnunities, fulfds useful designs. Some Indian ftimilies adopt Yale (the crow), others Sejetee (the beaver), others Ilon(je{\\\c. wolf), &c. The object of their agreeing upon these devices respectively is twofold : to erect barriers against marriage being contracted between persons related to each other by the ties of consanguinity, and to secure provision for the needy whose kindred relationship may give them claims upon that portion, of the tribe having the same crest. ' The relationship,' says Commander Mayne, ' between persons of the same crest is considered to be nearer than USK (U' CIIMSTS. 11 ling is left ist iniirj^iii le salmon )l!ict's with y, and felt the erow- ! chattels. lit is ^'Min- meiit from possession ii<^ several le, I could ucted. A md, and a bling short out to the istant mo- und, these some one lup stick, which, as props of civilised 11 ftiinilies r), others eing upon barriers )ns related to secure iship may )e havinuj between arer than that of the same triln' \ members of the same /r/Af may and do marry, but those of the same crest are not, I brlicve, under any circumstances allowed to do so. A ii'/i(tle, therelbre, may not marry u ii'/t<tle ; nor f\.j'i'<>i/, a />'!>;/. The child aj^^ain always takes the crest of the mother. So that if the mother be a irulf all her chil- dren will be icolves. As a rule also, descent is traced from the mother — not from the father. ' At tlu.'ir feasts they never invite any of the same crest as themselves; feasts are given generally for the cement- ing of friendship or the allaying of strife, and it is sup|)osed that peo[)le of the same crest cannot (juarrd. But I fear this sui)[)osition is not always sup[)orted by fact.' With such reverence does an Indian treat an animal adopted as his family crest, that he would esteem it sacrilege to kill it. iSliould another who sustains no such relation to that er.blematic animal shoot it in his presence, he will ceremoniously hide his face, and demand repara- tion for the affront. The ofTence of kiUing the animal does not consist in that act, but in its being dcjiie /n'forc one to whose family arm.H it belongs. There is another capricious usage in connection with these crests. When an Indian wishes at any time to ex- liibit his family insignia, all natives before wlumi he appears are bound by certain recognised laws of honour to show respect to it by casting property befoie it in quantities commensurate with the rank and means of the giver. Should an Indian, prompted by motives of need, mischief, or cupidity, bearing his crest painted upon his forehead or the paddles of his canoe, or worked Avitli but- tons on his blanket, desire to profit by tliis social custom, the unsuspecting victim he meets has no alternative but to present the costly oflering which superstition demands. 440 FORTUNE-TELLLVG. Slirewd and unscrupulous individuals are not wanting who take advantage of this practice to impose on their neighbours. At the beginning of the fish or berry season the same class will spread a report that revelations have been made to them, by dream, of particular localities where these productions exist in abundance. A present is, of course, the condition on whicli they can be induced to disclose the secret. To render tlieir supernatural pretensions more ])lausible with those they attempt to dupe, they wuxk about at night in lonely places, as if influencing their divinities to ' work on tlie hearts of the fish,' that the latter may be plentiful during the ensuing season. So readily are the assumptions of these impostors credited by their deluded brethren that they can always succeed in obtaining large rewards for their fortune-telling services. The en- chanter is crafty enough to direct enquirers to spots where their hopes are not likely to be disappointed ; but as with the ancient pythoness, shoidd his prediction turn out fal- lacious, he is prepared to transfer the cause of failure fi'om himself by insisting that they must have done something to incur the displeasure of the gods. The responsible task of foretelling births, deaths, mar- I'iages, and other events of domestic interest, devolves, as in the least enlightened parts of Scotland at the present day, upon old women who have reputation for pos- sessing the faculty of second sight. These venerable prophetesses are able, while relating ominous dreams, to eiiiiaire the rapt attention of their friends, who listen with gaping mouths and awe-struck gaze to their silly tales. In negotiating marringes, articles often to the value of from 20/. to 40/. sterling are given by the suitor to her })areiits for the purchase of his intended bride, years before MAKUIAC;ii: AND SEl'L'LTLKt:. 147 ot wanting 3S0 on their n the same I been made vliere these i, of course, to disclose nsions more they wtixk mcing their at tlie latter So readily :ed by their in obtaining s. The en- spots where but as with urn out fal- failure from something eaths, mar- devolves, as tlie present )n for pos- venerable dreams, to who listen their silly he value of itor to her years before slie arrives at marriai;'eal)le aii;e. A younu; Sinrish of a nortliern tribe, falHng m love, employs tlie intercession of a i friend, who visits the liouse of the bride's father hv the pur- pose of obtaining his consent and her own to the proposed matcli. So many blankets are bargained for as the [)rice of tlie favour solicited. The candidate for matrimony is accustomed to sit outside the door of the house — be the condition of the weather what it may — till the business delegated to his agent is concluded. Should success attend the efforts of that friend, he, with another, })erfbrnis the ceremony of raising the bridegroom from the squatting posture in which he had awaited the issue of his suit. Aftei' this he is conducted into the house, and refreshments are set before him, expressive of his acce[)tance by the pmvnts as a husband for their daughter. Tiie brother of the bride — if she have one — places his sister under the roof of the bridegroom, which act formally introduces the young- couple to matrimonial felicity. In regard to modes of sepulture, it may be stated that some of the natives residing near Victoria now bury their dead in imitation of the whites. But with Indians removed from contact Avitli civilisation this is not the usual practice. Some tribes, as a rule, burn their dead and preserve the ashes. In the native burying-grounds I have seen, remains Avere generally interred in wooden boxes, the top of which is simply covered with matting, there being occasionally laro'e stones over this. These rude colfins are laid on the ground, suspended in branches of trees, or placed upon blocks of wood. Flags, emblazoned with the family emblem of the deceased, frequently mark the Indian graves in the interior of British Columbia ; and armorial beariiljis, carved in Avood on a lariic scak;, are often found erected aujainst native tombs in Vancouver Island. For about thirty days al'ter funereal rites are peribrmeil. 448 BURNING THE DEAD. at sunrise and sunset dir<^;es are chanted, in token of mourning for the departed. In strange contrast with the nature of the occasion, and the violent waihng of the mourners, it is customary, at the burial of a chief, for his wealth to be exhibited at his grave. It was formerly deemed essential to the dignity of a chief's interment that some of his slaves should be slaugh- tered to attend his spirit into the invisible world. This atrocity has, I believe, entirely ceased. The custom of burning the dead has not yet altogether disappeared among the Indians of California. It is prac- tised by them on rehgious grounds. They believe in the existence of a vast and beautiful camping field, situated in some undefined region lying westward, where Indians live together in perpetual ease and plenty. This shadowy kingdom is presided over by a great spirit of unspeakable goodness. It is also part of their creed that there is an evil spirit who watches every opportunity to injure them, and whom, having the power to keep them out of heaven, it is their duty to thwart by conciliation or stratagem. They regard the heart to be immortal, and imagine that, while the body is burning, the heart leaps out, and that if by noise or gesticulation they can divert the attention of the evil spirit, the heart escapes to the place of eternal safety ; but if the body is buried, the evil one keeps constant guard over the grave, and when the heart would emerge, it is captured, and employed to annoy surviving relatives. When a ' Digger Indian' is about to expire, his head is gently placed in the lap of some relative and his eyes closed, while those who are standing near recite in low and monotonous tones the virtues of the dying. The moment his heart has ceased to beat, the intelligence of i{uuNL\(i THI-: di:ad. 44!) token of 2asion, and aiy, at the ted at his [gnity of a bo slaugli- .rld. This altogether It is prac- ieve in the situated in ndians Uve s shadowy nspcakable there is an ijure them, of heaven, stratagem. .agine that, and that e attention of eternal one keeps eart Avould Y surviving his head is d his eyes ;ite in low iniT. The lligence of what has (occurred is conveyed to his rehilives, and the clianting of tlie praises of the deceased is changed into loud wailing. Beating upon their breasts, and their eyes streaming with tears, all surrounding friends join in apo- stropliising the spirit of tlie departed. Tlie coipse is now pre])ared for burning ; the knees are pressed toward the (^hin upon the breast, and the limbs and body bound iirnily togetlier in tlie smallest possible compass. It is then wrapt in a blanket and placed on its back upon the ground, with the face exposed. Every soiuid is hushetl, and botli men and women sit in silent knots around the corpse for about twenty mhuites, when all rise at once — the women to renew their lamentation, and tlie men to build the funereal i)yre. When this is about two feet in height, every sound again ceases, and, amid a tleath-liki; stillness, the men lift tliecoi'pse upon the pyre, after which it is completely covered with additional firewood. The oldest and dearest relative then advances with a torch and lires the pile. When tlie hrst curl of smoke is visible, the discordant bowlings of the women become almost appalling. The men stand in sidleii and unbroken silence, while the nearest rehitives, having poles in their hands, commence a frantic dance round the burning body, occasionally turning it over tlnit it may consume more speedily, and give the heart a better chance to escape. With the waving of cloths and hideous noises they attempt to throw the evil one off his guard. Contrary to the habit of the Xootka Columbia Indians, the Digger tribes commit all the personal [)roperty of the deceased to the llanies, his relatives frequentlj^ sacrificing at the same time their own itkas, even to the articles of clothing on their persons, so that the dead may have what is requisite to his comfort on the great camj)ing-ground of the spirit-world. When the whole is consumed, the ashes are scraped together, and (i (i 450 (ATnilNd (ilJASSIIOlM'KHS. a rude wreath of llowcrs, woods, and brusli placed around them. A portion of the aslies, mixed with ])itcli, is s[)rea(l on the faces of tlie relatives as a badge of mourning, which is allowed to remain till it wears ofl"; and after more than six months the cheeks of the mourners exhibit traces of this disfigurement. Without stopping to describe, in detail, tlie peculiarities of Indian social life, it may be mentioned tliat, while resembling the coast tribes in respect to sever.al kinds of food and dress, the attire of natives in the interior is more r\ KIlINri (,l! vssllnl'l'l'.i;^. elaboiately ornamented. Wild roots, grass, clover, seeds of wild flowers, acorns, and grasshop])ers, form the main sup[)lies of the Digger Indians. Their mode of procuring the last article in this list is not a little ingenious. A hole is lirst dug deep enough to ])revent these insects jumping (^ut. A circle is then formed of Indians, old and voun£>". UAlX-M.\KI\(i. 4.')1 (1 around , is s[)rca<l iicf, which norc than : traces of cuharities iiat, while il kinds of 3r is more over, seeds 1 the main pi'ocuring IS. A hole ts jumping lid young, .-ii'iiu'd willi Ixishi's. Those' tliey Jipplv in Ix'.'itiiig the grasshoppoi's toward their j)]ace of slaiiglitor. Having fallen into the hole, they are taken prisoners, k^onietimes the grass and weeds around are set on lire, so they are disabled and afterwards picked up. The aborigines of the interior generally spend a great part of tlieir time in the saddle, and extensive practice in riding mukes them superior horsemen. They ])refer the ^^panish style of saddle, whicli is manufactured by them witli nuich skill. Their bridle, often made of the liair of the wild slieej) ])laited, is sim])ly a cord passed through the liorse's nioutli and hitched round his lower jaw, the ends brouglit u]) on either side oi" his head. Like our forefatliers, wlio believed in the; eHicat^y of bay-leaf as preventive of thunder, they carry about tlieir persons bags made of the skins of various animals as charms. AmouL*' the mummeries of tiie ii/rf/lciiK'-iiien in the interior of the countiy, the pi'incipal consists of rain- making. A skilful rain-maker is always a i)opular medi- cine-man. After a lengtliened peiiod of di'ought, these tricksters, trustiiiij to the uniformity of the laws of nature, apply themselves to the performance of their incantations in the confidence that moisture will eventually condense and fall ui)on the parched fields. Should the clouds bc^ slow m gathering, they strive to quicken in their benighted clients an appreciation of their mystical services by de- claring that the longed-for shower is retarded by some offence (X)mmitted against the Deity. When they know the rain to be at hand, they work upon the sui)er8titions of spectators by invoking the Great Spirit with redoubled vehemence ; and when the cloud is on the point of dis- charging its* contents, they artfully send an arrow from the bow, under pretence of piercing it. 452 THADITIOX OK Till': CREATfoV. Indian Traditions. Tlie ' Clingats,' wliicli name is applied to all the northern tril)C!s, relate the following tnidition of tlie creation of their poition of the world. In the country, which Avas originally sunless and chaotic, the (Yale) crow was the only living thing. lie hovered over the liquid and solitary waste, till, impatient of this roving condition, he resolved to find rest for the sole of his foot. To accomplish this end, and render the land habitable, he bade the waters recede, and the only visible remains of them were confined to lakes, rivers, and the ocean. The sun was siunmoned from his hiding-place, the contact of his rays with the m(3ist earth produced a mist which spread over the country. Out of this material the Y(de created salmon, and put them in the lakes and rivers. Deer, wolves, and all varieties of the feathery tribe, were also located in a habitat suited to their nature. The Yale having finished the general work of creation, foimd that all the animals were satisfied with the arrange- ment of the world except the racoon. This creature being of slothfid propensities, and siip])lied with provi- sions sufficient for a long winter, expressed a wish that that season should include five months. The Yale refused to comply with the desire of the racoon, out of consideration for the deer and mountain sheep, and determined that the snow season should not exceed four months. Seizing one of the racoon's claws he twisted it ofi*, and said, ' the four that remain will be a sign to you for ever, that from the period wdien the sun leaves a certain point in the heavens till he returns, there shall be four months of snow, four of rain, and four of sununer weather.' When the cold season arrived the crow^was without shelter, and accommodation for storini*- the salmon he had 3 northern 3n of their originally >nly Hviiig ury waste, zed to Ihid is end, and 3rs recede, onfnied to smnmoned ■i Avith the lie country. 1, and put 3S, and all cated in a of creation, ic arrange- is creature vith provi- sh tliat that efused to nsideration mined tliat Seizing I said, ' the , that from oint in the hs of snow, as Avithout non he had TIIK (.row's MAUUIA(ii:S. 45:] dried for winter use. To meettliis emergency lie foiincd two men out of a sliowcr of rain, and instructed them how to build a house, make rope out of tlie bark of trees, and dry salmon. Tliere was still one element wanting to complete the crow's happiness. lie resolved to get niiu'ried, and made choice of a female salmon for his spouse, with whom lie suc- ceeded in living agreeably for a time. 13ut, on a cei'tain occasion, the ci'ow fell to gambling with the stump of a tree. The result was, as is often the case in such an occupa- tion, that he became displeased with his partner in the game and beat it severely. With temper rudled he went hemic, laid hold of his wife by the gills, and belaboured her so unmercifully that she immediately took her depar- ture into the river, whence she never returned. All the (hied salmon leaped from the larder and followed her — leaving his cupboard entirely empty. Soon recovering from the loss sustained by him, he contracted an alliance with a daughter of the sun. The; offspring of this union was a male child, who strikingly resembles tlie Phaeton of Grecian Mythology. This youth undertook to guide the chariot of his grandsire. When the sun approached the meridian, the aspiring young gentleman became fearful in consequence of the giddy heio'ht to wliich he had attained, and misdirectiii": the course of that luminary, he accidentally grazed the earth and set lire to some of the mountains, one of Avliich is sup- posed to be Mount Baker. This is a neighbouring volcano, which is still observed occasionally in a state of eruption. The crow chastised the folly of his son, and once more restored the world to order. The crow and his illustrious wife are believed to have been the progenitors of the human family. In the exercise of his kind ])rovidence over dependent creatures, he su])- ])lied the rivers with fish and ])eo])led the air with iuwls. 454 ('AX-N(M)lv AND Till': CUOW. When on a tour of iiispcctioii in liis doiniiiiotis, Ikmhic c've'iiiii;^ reaclicd tlie liouso of u chief cullcil Caii-nook. Overcoiiio witli i'iitiiruo and tliirst, h(3 beugod lodging tor tlic niglit and a drink of water. Can-nook gave his con- sent to tlie crow becoming liis guest, l)ut on account of a prevaiHng scarcity of water at the time, ho declined to let him jiave anytliing to drink. After tlie liousehokl had gone to rest, the crow got up to search ibr the water-butt ; but the wakeful spouse of Can-nook, hearing the crow- astir, roused her husband. He no sooner suspected the design of the crow to escape than he piled logs of green- wood on tlie fire. The crow made desperate attempts to fly through the hole in the roof by which the smoke escaped. The impious old boor, not satisfied with denying to the Divine bird a necessary element of hos})itality, seemed determined to keep him prisoner. Can-nook exerted liimself vigorously to augment the volinne of smoke as the crow lied. Previous to that occurrence we arc assured by the Indians that the crow was white, and that since then the species has ever been black. Can-nook I understand to represent the evil spirit. In course of time the growing depravity of the natives became intolerable to the patience of the creative bird. His own life was threatened by them. To ]:)unish their crimes he overspread the heavens with clouds, and caused torrents of rain to descend. He made fissures in the earth, from which immense jets of w\ater spouted forth, flooding the coimtry. The people gathei'cd their stores of provisions together and took to their canoes. As the waters rose the soil became so soft that trees w^ere loosened from their roots, and floated to the surface, upsetting most of the canoes. Multitudes consequently perished. At lengtu, with the exception of three high mountains, in tlie Songhie, iStickeen, and ^^itka I'ountries respectively, ihc entire I'cgion was sitlMiierged. IIS, lu' one CiUi-iK)()k. di-iii^i' lor e his con- •oiiiit of Jl iued to let eliokl luid ^titiT-butt ; the crow ■)ectcd the of greeii- ttempts to :,he sinoko th deuyiiii^' lospittility. Can-nook volmue of u'rencc we wliite, and Can-nook the natives ative bird, uiish their uid caused res in the .ited forth, heir stores As the rees were le surface, nsequently tlirce high countries THK SlM-MOl^ll. \')i) ^. A few succeeded in reaclung the sunniiits of these mountains, nnd from this saved renmant the present northern Indians beheve themselves to have s[)ruiiLr. 'i'o hasten the work of po|)u]iiting the land, thus desolated ])y the Hood, the crow desired the survivors to tlirow stones behind their Ijacks (// In Deucalion and ryrrjia), whicii were converted into men, women, and fui'-l)earing animals. Modifications of this tradition are to be met with among various tribes of British Columbia. The crow gives his name to several rivers in the language of the natives — for example, Yali' keen Klcuw (the crow's big water), tS:c. A remarkal)le correspondence exists between the Scripture account of 'the Fall of Man' and that con- tained in traditions of the Indians of the Uocky j\[ount:iiiis. The chief diflerence consists in herrie-s being substituted by these red men for the tree-fruit of the Ciarden of Eden. Mr. James Deans, of Victoria — who has been an intelhgent observer of Indian life in the country I'or twelve years, and to whose kindness I am indebted for much information resiiectinuf them — told me that the followini*" tradition was related to him by a native. An imearthly race called Sini-nioqtiis, resembling the hob-goblins and brownies of British su])erstition, inhabit the margin of a lake in the interior. They are about seven feet high, and are without joints in their knees or elbows. The dilliculty of locomotion to which this natiu'al deficiency subjects them is partially met by long poles, with the assistance of which they slide down when they change a standing for a recumbent posture. Their hair is long, unkempt, and dirty. The Indians are supposed to have sustained in for- mer times great annoyance from the abstraction of their women by these hideous creatures. Some ' clootchinen ' * encased once in satherinii: berries in the woods were belated. When night came on they descried a distant ' S\'iiciii\iu I'lii' s<iiiiuc.i "V Iiuliau Wdiiu'ii. ... / 450 CAUSK or Tiirvnin: and LifiiiTXixo. li^lit, 5111(1 on Mpproacluiig louiid that it proceeded Iroin ji S'nii-mn<iui (.'iK'iiiii|)niL'iit. Tlii'y were .soon made prisonci's by these monsters. After being missed for some days from tlieir own home, tliesc wanderers were souglit by their friends, wlio were, hke tliemselves, attracted by liglit at a distance. Tlu; avengers of the wronged sqnjiws advanced to the abode of tlie Sim-)n<></Nis',t\m\ finding tlie Avomen in tlieir embra(!c dispatclied the ca})tors. The origin of lire is attributed l)y tlie Songhie tribe to the following circumstance, which certainly does not evince the possession of a very sublime imagination by the natives. Formerly the Indians were accustomed to eat fish uncooked as the Esquimaux now do. One day, a bird alighted among a party of them while at a meal, and com- miserated their cheerless condition, destitute of tluit cooking essential. They were told by the beneficent feathery visitor that the boon they so much required was upon its head, and should be granted to the good people of the tribe ; but as the advantage to be conferi ed was so precious, it could not be obtained without special effort being put forth to catch the bird. Olf it Hew, and all the tribe pursued it over hill, river, and phiin. It arrived ere long at the dwelling of an old woman, who solicited it to ttUTy, and promised to treat it kindly. The bird deigned to approve her as the medium of bestowing its favours. It complied with her wishes : she applied a piece of hght wood to its head which was soon icjnited. and it afterwards took fii"ht to return no more. The phenomena of thunder and lightning are ascribed by most of the Indians on the British North American coast of the Pacific to a sinnidar cause. A Brobdio-naii- gian bird, called Soochwass, whose nest is upon a certain lofty mountain — the situation of which no one professes to know — occasionally a])pease8 the cravings of appetite by pouncing ui)on a whale of tempting size, as the fish makes Si IDHAS OF A Fl'TlUK STATK. 457 .'(I from n prisoners :)ine (lays ou«,Mit by (1 by li<^^]it 1 sqUMWS indiiiL!; tlie ie tribo to not cvincf n by tlie cd to out lay, a bird and coni- of til at beneficent piired was od people feried was ecial eflbrt nid all the irrived ere cited it to d deigned s favours, e of liii'lit afterwards •e ascribed American 'obdignaji'- 1 a certain )rofesses to jipetite by llsli makes its appeiirMiice on the surface of tlie ocean. Thunder is ])ro- diiced by the flapping of the bird's wings, while lightning is represented as caused by the flash of its enormous eye. The religious lujliefs of the fishing tribes can be but indistinctly deciphered, owing to the state of moral and intelle(.'tual degradation to which they are reduced. No temples or forms of worship exist among them to mark exalted reverence for a Su])rem(! Being. Yet the 'Great Spirit' is sometimes Jilluded to by them. As to their ideas of a future state, the doctrine of tlu? transmigration of souls is held by the Songhie tribe. They do not seem to associate any moral disj)osilion ex- hibited in this world with the perpetuation of that quality in another life, as its natural reward or penalty. Ihit a great hunter is degraded into the form of the deer which he before hunted, and the fisherman into the fish it was his occupation to catch. So with other tastes and pur- suits in relation to the inferior animals. The Indians of parts farther north believe in a place of happiness, which they say is keeicuek (or above). The spirits of the brave killed in battle go to keewuck-kmr (life above). To die from natural causes is accounted a sign of cowardice to be ashamed of. Those who expire in this manner are supposed to be unfit for pai'ticlpating in the felicities of heaven, and have to become refined by purgatorial discipline among the trees of the forests. This intermediate state is designated scewitck- koiv (life in purgatory). The distinguishing peculiarity of keewuck- kow is, that perennial youth reigns there without inter- ruption or decay. As in all Pagan nations, their conceptions of the Great Spirit exhibit Ilim almost exclusively in a penal atti- tude. In Stickcen Eiver, which displays the gi'andest of all the ineffably wild scenery of Ihitish Columbiii, there !Ui' two large granite ])iHars and several small ones. •JoS TIIKFTS IIY TIIK IIYI>AIIS. Tlicsu .stand ill tlu' middle ol' llic .stifain, iiiul a luidilioii ill coiuioctioii witli tln'iii is, that tliey lonii tlic icniaiiis of a ^^frcat cliii;!' with his family, who was notorious in general (.'limo, c's[)L'('ially in stealing the berries stored by tlie local ti'ibes. lie, with wile [md children, was visited with the anger of the Great Spirit by being transformed into these blocks of stone, as a ])ermauent memoiial to all succeeding generations of the danger of (lisol)eying the Deity. Numerous instances have occurred, during my residi'uce in the colony, of the treacherous, dishonest, and blood- thii'sty disposition of the aborigines. Inconvenience has been ex[)erieuced by the settlers chiefly from the noi'thern tribes. The llydahs, who belong to (Jueen Charlotte Island, have long been in the luibit of visiting Victoria in gi'eat force, diu'ing spring, for the piu'pose of exchanging theii- rude pi'oducts for articles of civilised manufacture. A few years ago the citizens of Victoria were greatly troubled by the presence of these imscrupulous rogues during theii* so- journ in our neighboiu'hood. Petty larcenies were skilfully committed by them during the day, and burglaries at night. For a time their nimbleness eluded the vigilance of tlui police and tlie settlers. The doors and windows of nearly every house in town were tried, and often with success. On a certain night my shnnbers were broken by the dis- charge of a ])istol in a house a few yards from where I slept. Next day I was informed by the })erson who fired that he had been awaked by a slight noise ; on looking up he saw, by moonhglit, the figiu'e of a man entering iiis apartment by a window opposite his bed, which was on the ground lloor. lie satisfied himself that the intruder was an Indian. His loaded revolver being suspended above his pillow, he raised his hand gently to seize it, endeavouring at the same time not to rouse the suspicions i:.\(i.\(ii:.Mi:NT at ( \v\: Mirxii;. i:>!> ii tiiiditioii K' IVlllJlillS )t()riuu.s ill lies stoivd ildivii, was by iK'in;.' |K'riiiau(.'iit J danger of y vcsidi'iict' and blood- I'liiuncL' has heiiortlioni lotte Island, ria in gi'cat mging tiiL'ir lire. A few troubled by ng tlieir s(3- ere skilfidly ies at niu'lit. anco of the Ys of nearly ith success. by the dis- )m where I n who lired on looking an entering which was :he intruder suspended to seize it, e suspicions <»l' tlic savauc l)iir«>lai' as to liis obiect. I>iit no sooner liad lie taken aim, than tlie wily visitor decamped, fortunately witli suHicieiit agility to ocapc tlie coiiteiitN of the wea|)on. Another householder, u hose nocturnal repose was simi- larly disturbed at dawn of dnv. 'aught sight of the red- skinned olleiider. i'esolved iiof to l>e balked of his prey, he rushed in hot pursuit, his night go^\■n being his sole protection from tlie mornifjg chill. After ii long chase, the indignant avengcrof the sacrilege committed ujkmi his household gods succeeded in clutching, iVom behind, the blanket in which the Indian was enveloped, when the latter relaxed his hold of this |)rimitive garment, and at a (piickened i)ace lied from the grasp of his pursuer in a condition of stai'k nudity. Other depredations of a still more irritating character were perpetrated by these northern hordes on their way home; so that it was thought expedient by the authorities to teach them a salutary lesson as to the distinction between incntu and tnuni. A gunboat was accordingly despatched to demand restitution. On the arrival of the war vessel at Cape Mudge, the obnoxious natives were found to have ensconced themselves in a stockaded log village. When the errand of the jiimboat was ascertained, they defied her, and opened a brisk lire of musketry, from the fatal elTects of which only the I'ille plates of the steamer could shield the crew. A shell was fired over the heads of the enemy to bring them to surrender; but this mild intimation of the wishes of the man-of-war was imavaiUng, A few more discharges of shot and shell soon followed, smashinij their canoes and scatterinir dismay throughout their camp. Only by these severe measures could the stolen goods be recovered. A schooner was some time afterwards maliciouslv llre<l 4(10 CAPTAIX JOIIX AND HIS I5U0TIIEK. into, on sailing out of Victoriu liarbour, by an Indian ol' the Songliic tribe, wliose quarters are directly opposite the town, on the beach. To strike terror into the native mind, inquisition was made for tlie transgressor with great ceremony. Governor Douglas, wliose abilities slione in (juieting an Indian melee, ordered a gunboat to be stationed before the Indian camp, and in person dii-ected a body of marines to defde on the landside. In that })ompous style he was accustomed to assume, the Governor sent for the chief of the tribe, and announced that if the guilty person were not produced in a given number of minutes their houses would be bombarded. Vividly do I remember the suspense of the spectators as the brief time allowed the Indians for decision was about to expire. There is no doubt that his Excellency Avould have fulfilled his threats, regardless of consc'quences. But at the last moment the culprit was delivered up to be flogged in presence of his tillicnms (friends) — a form of punishment the most humili- ating that can be inflicted \\\)0\\ these savages. Another exciting affray happened, which had a ffital termination. Captain John and his brother, two cruel monsters, who were accused of shedding innocent blood without measure, in the tribe of which they were Tyhees, were arrested by the authorities. The police who con- veyed them to prison omitted to take from their persons the bowie-knives they had been in the habit of carrying. The prisoners walked in an orderly enough manner to the gaol, but when about to be placed in their cells, they turned upon the gaoler with these deadly weapons. The scuffle — in which he was badly wounded, and but for timely help rendered must inevitably have been killed — attracted the notice of another officer, who approached, armed with {I brace of revolvers, and finding that the alternative lay between putting an end to these fiends incarnate, and AX IXIJI.W IIL'XIJ. 4()1 I Indian of y opposite the native with great 5 slione in le stationed [ a body of iipous style cnt for tlie lilty person iiuites their nember the illowed the 'liere is no his tin-eats, nomeut the 5ence of his nost lunnili- had a fatal , two cruel icent blood ere Tyhees, ; who con- leir persons Df carrying, inner to the they turned The scuffle for timely — attracted armed with 3rnative lay arnate, and sufTering his brotlier-policeman to perish at their liands, he chose the former course, and immediately shot each of tlie chiefs through the heart. Being within a few yards of the scene at the time it occurred, I hastened to learn what the pistol reports meant, when the lifeless bodies of Captain John and his brother, who a few seconds before had been in liealth and vigour, lay prostrate before me. The only occasions on which the extreme penalty of the law has been put in force since the advent of tlie wliites in Vancouver Island have been in connection witli Indian atrocities.* In one case, a Songliish native was executed for the murder of a sailor belon^inu; to one of Her Majesty's shi[)s. This man, on his way from Victoria to Esquimau, in a state of inebriation, one evening entered the dwelling of his destroyer, and attempted to take liber- ties with the squaw of the Siwash. The latter, stung by the insult, stabbed the sailor. Doubtless the verdict of the jury and the sentence of the Court were according to the evidence, but tlie provocation ought to have been jiccepted as in some degree palliative of the bloody deed. It is questionable whether, had the crime been committed by one white man against another under like circum- stances, the claims of justice would have been exacted with so much rigour. Nine-tentlis of tlie outrages per- petrated by natives upon the superior race, and su}i})ose(l to be the result of insensate cruelty, can be traced to some wanton violation of the personal or domestic rights of the Indians on the })art of the whites. This assertion receives melancholy verification on the other side of the American boundary, where inhuman 'rowdies' are known to esteem the life of a native as of no more consequence than that of a dog, and sometimes to shoot him down for the * The same cannot be afrirnied of l^riti.sh Columbia, where several wliitc men have alreailv heen executed for murder. 4G2 15i:.\TI.V(K AI{M AND d('j)mvod gmtificatioii, as it has been oxpresst'd, of' seeing him junil).' But even on British territory tlie i)rincij)al and innnediate effect of contact between the representa- tives of civihsation and the aborigines lias been tluit ' fire-water,' debaucliery, sypliihtic disease, and augmented mortahty liave been introducech Appalhng as the ano- maly may appear, it is nevertheless uniform that tlie nation which professes to bring into a virgin colony the blessings of the gospel in one hand, carries a moral Pandora box in the other ; accomplishing the physical and moral ruin of the primitive inhabitants, whose interests, gratitude and respect should prompt it jealously to truard. Still, it must be acknoAvledged that several times within the past seven years Indians have been instrumental in tlu» m.asoacrc of white men without any known provocation, except that pei'haps some of the tribes have held the pre- sence of our race to be practically an invasion. A gentleman well known to me, Avho is himself my authority for the statement, was on his way with a com- panion to the mines from Bentinck Arm. When they were sleeping in the bush together, it happened that my friend was startled before sunrise one morning by the report of a gun evidently fired close by. This was instantly followed by a groan from the young man by his side, who rolled over, and died without uttering a smgle word. My friend, in doubt as to what it was best for him to do under the circumstances, especially as he did not know but that there might be a strong attacking party near, concluded to lie quiet and motionless. Scarcely had he time to recover from his amazement before another shot came and shattered his ankle. He now resolved to defend himself at all hazards ; but imhappily his percus- .sion-caps were damp. The I'ustling of my friend among I5UTK I.VLirr MASSACRKS. Myp> of ' seeing princi])iil epresenta- been that lUfrmented 8 the aiu)- . that tlie colony tlie s a moral e physical its, Avhose it jealously imes within ental in the I'ovocation, 3kl the pre- limself my th a com- ^Vhen they ed that my inp; by the as instantly is side, who nirle w(~»rd. him to do not know larty near, ely had he lother shot esolved to his percus- end amon.u' tlie underwood, however, had the eflectt of scaring ()ir the Indian, who probably suspected that he might be suddenly ])ursued by both the white men. My friend became so feeble from loss of blood that he could not rise ; and in that wild and lonely path, rarely tracked by whites at that season of the year, he was doomed to remain, watch- ing by the dead body of his companion for. an entire fortnight, kept alive during this period by only a few small biscuits and a little sugar which chanced to be in liis pocket. At length a good Samaritan passed by, and saw him safely housed. Not long after the nuu'derer was identified, and captured by the chief of a tribe in the vicinity, who was not without some sense of justice in the matter. Tlie cowardly wretch met wdth his merited end in a peculiar manner. The chief having satisfied himself of the guilt of the individual, ordered him to go to the verge of a kike adjoining the camp and fetch a bucket of water. When the fellow's back was turned, and without his receiving any announcement of what was about to befall him, he was fired upon by several members of the tribe by direction of the chief, who, in that case, never per- formed a more righteous act as judicial disposer of life in his tribe. But the most brutal and terrible massacre that has ever been known in the annals of Indian outrage in British North America, took place in the montli of May 18G4 on the coast of British Columbia. A party of men, engaged under Mr. Waddington in making a road from the head of Bute Inlet to Alexandria, were surprised at midnight by a large number of natives belonging to a neighbouring lodge, who, till then, appeared to mani- fest friendly feeling. The tents of the white men were stealthily entered, and it was evidently the intention of the savages to butcher the former so expeditiously and efTec- 4G4 15i;.\TL\('K AKM AND tually that not oiiu should cscupL' to tell tlie talc, in this, howcivcr, they were not quite successful, though many of the unfortiniate roaduiakers were barbarously slaughtered. The few who were enabled to save their lives — some of whom had been severely wounded — sull'ered extreme hardship and privation befoie getting clear off from tlie scene of danger. Encouraged by the manner in wliich this tieacherous plot had been executed, these bloodthirsty wretches conceived the idea of nunxloring every w'hite man they could find on the trail leading ft-oni Bentinck Arm to Fraser River. They proceeded to the junction of the Inlet and Arm trails in expectation of meeting a party with pack animals on the latter route. Nor were their hopes disappointed. In this com])any, about eight in number, there was a squaw, the concubine of one of the packers. In passing an Indian encampment on the way, she learned from the tribe the sad fate of the men at Bute Inlet, and from devotion to her white paramour she earnestly implored liiin and his companions to return, assuring them that if they advanced they must all be murdered. They made liolit of her entreaties at first, but soon concluded that it was prudent to take her advice. When distant about 120 miles from the Arm, the Indians, 50 or GO strong, surrounded tliem, and fired from behind the pine-trees. The first of the party to fall was an esteemed young friend of mine, to whose excellent parents, resident in England, I had to perform the melancholy duty of announcing their son's death. Another of these men, an intrei)id and generous Scotchman, killed several of the enemy, taking aim at them under shelter of a tree. Having exhausted his stock of ammimition, he continued to defend himself with Avhat weaj)ons he could command, and fouirht on like a true Iliuhlander after his leas had . Ill this, li many of luglitered. — some of . extreme ' from tlie which this Loodthirsty /ery white 11 Beiitiuck t and Arm ick animals ^appointed, lere was a III passing id from the p antl from y imph)red em that if 'hey made ided that it taut about GO strong, pine-trees, lied young resident in y duty of these men, veral of tlie of a tree, e continued 1 command, his less had BUTE IXLET JkrASSAC'HES. 4G-) been shot oiT. It is estimated tliat between fourteen and seventeen whites perished in tliese Indian atrocities. A vohmteer force was sent in searcli of the criminals by the energetic Governor of British Columbia, who acc()m[);i- nied it a good part of the way in person. Some of these infatuated natives have been ca])tured, tried, and exe- cuted, and pursuit of the others is to be resumed this year. Already the efforts of the Government to bring the dan- gerous Indians to justice, has involved an expenditure ul' not less than 20,000/. Many conjectures have been oflered as to the cause of these barbarities, but no satis- factory conclusion has yet been arrived at on the sul)ject. As these incidents of Indian adventure do not pretend to special chronological order, I may be permitted to advert to an exciting passage in the experience of Sir James Douglas, which relates, however, to a i)eriod when he served in the capacity of chief trader of the Hudson's Bay Company at one of theii- posts near Stuart's Lake. The cir- cumstance was told me by a retired officer of the com})any, who lived nine years in the country now known asBiitisli Columbia, and before it became a colony. It should be premised that the officers of the company located west of the Eocky ]\Iountaiiis, where there was no Crown tri- bunal for the trial of criminals, received [)erempt()ry instructions fi'om their superiors in London to be as unsparing in the punishment of native transgressors as they were bound to be faithful in fulfilling promises of reward to good Indians. On this princi[)le it was expected that in case of a white man's life being taken by a redskin, they should keep up tlie search for the murderer, even should it occupy twenty years. Two employes of the company had been wantonly killed at a fort, two Indians having been concerned in the deed. One of the perpe- trators was caught and shot soon after llie crime had been II II 4GG EXCITIXO ADVENTURF. committed. The otlier escaped detection for six years. There was an Indian encampment in the neighbourhood of tlie fort, connnanded by Mr. Douglas, whence came a native one day, and assured him tliat the criminal who had been so long at large was secreted in the native lodge. Mr. Douglas witli his men armed themselves and hastened to the spot. It may be noticed, in passing, that wherever there is any supposed advantage to be gained these imhappy people are just as readily tempted to betray each other as they are to deceive the colonists. All the apart- ments of the lodge were found vacated, with one excep- tion. The chief of the tribe was giving a potlatch (feast) to friendly tribes who had come from a distance, and the inhabitants of the village had followed him to the place — some way off — where the festi\'ities were being conducted. The only person Mx. Douglas foinid at home was a woman with a child in arms, her back leaning apparently agahist the wall. After having examined the other divisions of the lodge, their suspicions prompted them to look once more in that room where the squaAv was, and they found her still in the same posture. They ventured this time to ]ndl her from the place where she stood. Whether the guilty person had been apprised of tlie intentions of the men at the fort or not, I did not learn. But directly the woman was moved, down fell a bundle of clothes and mats, and out rushed the murderer ; the Hudson's Bay Company's emj)loyes blazed at him, but with the nimbleness of an eel he zig-zagged his way out of the house ; their shots missed him, raid he was about to escape when one of Mr. Douglas's men levelled the butt end of his gun at him and felled him to the ground. But the affair did not end here. In the course of the day the chief and his retainers returned to the camp, and in consternation beheld the dead body of the man stretched on the thre«]i;>l 1. The ni{ OF MR. DOUGLAS. 4G7 ix years. )ourlioo(l e came a linal who ive lodge. I liastened wherever lied these etray each the apart- one excep- h (feast) to e, and the Me place- conducted, as a woman ;ntly agamst sions of tlie once more ; found her time to ])ull T the guihy the men at the woman d mats, and Company's ileness of an I; their shots [1 one of Mr. rrun at him did not end his retainers i\ beheUl the ^;,:>M. The j-quaw informed lier tillicnms of what liad occurred. Tliey instantly covered tlieir faces witli black paint, ex- l)ressive of tlieir belligerent intentions. Tlie wjir-whoMp was raised, and all the male inmtites of the lodge, armed to the teeth, ran helter-skelter to the fort. The gates were open as usual. Mr. Douglas, re[)osing in the security jtlTorded by the consciousness of having done his duty, had made no extraordinary i)reparation for repelling hos- tilities. The insensate mob, amidst threateninu; veils, forced their way into the apartment where the chief trader was, and, without allowing him time for parky, invested his conmianding and portly person, threw him on his back, fastened his hands and feet, and bore him in a struggling condition to the mess-room of the fort, laying him on a long table, where, I suppose, he expected to be put to death, with torture exquisite and ])rotracted. Other servants were bound after the same fashion, but a few took refuge in the bastion, which they declared to the Indians was stored with powdei'. They also swore that if the Siwashes should venture to follow them, they would blow up the powder magazine about their ears. This menace had its desired effect. The old chief nuar(k'(l Mr. Douglas. The former insisted on knowing the meaning of the strange and deadly assault that had been committed upon one of liis guests. The dignified chief trader affected to treat the enquiry with scorn, and while rolling about on the table attempthig to burst his bonds, threatened the venerable Ti/hee with the most withering l)ains and penalties of the company. But the old savage, knowing that he had Mr. Douglas in his power, coolly replied that he was in no hm-ry, and Avoidd wait j^atiently till the chief trader should reason with him. When Mv. Douglas consented to listen to his statement, he safely re- marked: 'I didn't kno\v that anv murderer had snmirkded H H 2 408 FIRMNESS OF THE LOCAL GOVERNMENT. liimsclf under my roof witli tlie tribes who came to tlio potlatch. If I had known that any siicli person was tlierc, of course I sliould liave refused him shelter — I beheve he ouglit to die. But you know tliat by tlie hiws of lios- pitahty existing among us Indians, any one wlio intrusts liimself to our protection is sacred wliile under it, who- ever he may be, and that we regard it ti desecration to touch liim while he is our guest.' Mr. Douglas proposed to atone for his proceeding by a present of bhuikets ; and the word of a Hudson's Bay Company's servant with the Indians being ' as good as his bond,' directly the pro- mise was given the chief trader was set at liberty and an end put to ponding troubles. It has been stated that thievish as Avell as treacherous propensities are the rule among the aborigines. Nor is this surprising when the mutual suspicions which tribes have been trained to indulii;e toward one another, and the unmitigated degradation in which they have lived for coimtless ages, arc considered. If they imagine tliey can take advantage in a bargain wdth impunity, they will do so, and, but for the firmness of the local Government and the presence of ships of war, the peace of the settlers would have been more frequently disturbed by them. The bravado, however, which they formerly used, with the view of alarming the ' King George men,' as they deno- minjite the whites, is now seldom heard — at least in the island, for they are thoroughly convinced of their im- potence in our hands.* 11 * The following is an address (translated), delivered by the Nanaimo Indians to the present Governor: — You, OUR GREAT CniKF, — "We, the Nanainio Indians, have long wanted to see you and speak our hearts to you ; and we want Mr. Crosby to translate our words. This day our hearts are made very glad because we see you. You, Mr. Kennedy, have conio from our great Queen, and we hope you have some good words IS le to tlio ^as there, I believe vs of lios- o intrusts r it, Avlio- cration to •oposed to kets; and t with the J the pro- •ty and an reachcrous s. Nor is Liich tribes 3r, and the i Uved for le they can icy will do innent and the settlers by them, d, Avith the they deno- east in the f their im- the Nanaimo and spofilc our rds. This day Mr. Koiinedy, mc o-dod words Till-: LAMALlllAS. 4()0 III 'Go a small tribe called the Lanialchas, now almost cxtinet, caused anxiety to colonists in the smaller islands ill the gulf by robberies. This lierce and predatory band, lriflin<^' though its numbers were, was a source of con- tinual strife and bloodshed to neighbouriuu: tribes. It was liL'aded by a notorious robber chief — the terror of his enemies, called Achecwun. IJavages occasioned by this dreaded villain and his retainers became so common that the police and ultimately the gunboats were obliged ic> interfere. One engagement was fought in whieh the houses of the tribe were assailed by one of Her Majesty's vessels. No imnates being visible, the steamer backed toward the beaeh, Avhen suddenly lire was opened by the Indians from the forest, resultinijr in the death of one seaman and the woundinix of others. A short time afterwards, a corps of loyal Indian braves was eqiiip[)ed, to spoak to us from hor. "We are poor dark Indians. You white peo})lo Icnow more than we do. If all white people who come here were jrood, it would he hetter for us : hut ninny teach our people to sw(>ar and f^'et drunk. A\'e hope you, our Ooveriuu", will spoak strong words to them. Our hearts are very glad that good white people have sent ministers of the Gospel to us, who tell us good things ahout God, and teach our children to read. W(? Avant them to know more than we do. We want to keep our land here ami up the river. 8ome white uu'U tell us we shall soon have to remove again; Imt we don't want to lo.se these reserves. ^Vll our other land is gone, and we have been paid very little for it. God gave it to us a long time ago, aiul now we are very poor, and do not know where our honu's will he if wo leave this. We want our land up the river to plant for food. Mr. Douglas said it should be ours, and our children's after we are gone. "NVe hope you, our new chief, will say the same. We have over 300 people in our tribe, though a number are away fishing now. [Many are old and not able to work, and some of our children, who have neither father nor mother, have no clothes. We hope you will be kind to them. Our hearts are good to all white people, and to you, our great white chief. We hope you will send our words to tho great Queen. We pray that the Great Spirit may bless her and you. This is all our hearts to-day. N.B. — The foregoing is a faithful translation of the addresses of the chiefs as delivered to me in council. (Signed) T. Crosby, Indian Teacher. Indian Village, Nanaimo, Nov. 15; 1864. 470 I'KOCESS OF SCALl'IXCi. and, iiucler tlio direction of the superintendent of [jolice, sent into tlic forest to figlit tlie Liunalehas. Tliey were enabled to break up tlie foree of Aelieewun, and capture tlu^ cliief liimself. How tliey succeeded in surroundinu; tlie cneuiy in the tliick brush witliout sustaining loss of life, I never learned, but no adventure is more perilous than to skirmish when Indian f<harpshooter.s have to be met lying in ambush. The chief fell int<3 the hands of his pursuers, and was consigned to the gallows after a fair trial, with luitold enormities upon his head. Internecine wars are perpetual among the tribes. There are always some old-standing diil'erences between them which are liable, on the slightest occasion, to be revived. Grudges tu'e handed down frc»m father to son for generations, and friendly relations are never free from the risk of being interrupt(jd. Lives taken in one tribe can only be com])ensated by the same mrniber being massacred in another, and without regard to the guilt of the individuals sacrificed. It is diflicult to perceive how, upon such a principle, the extermination of the conflicting parties, eventually, can be avoided. It is their custom to scalp cveiy one they kill — the integument of the skull of an enemy ^ilain in war being viewed by them as a trophy. So that he who can boast the greatest number of scalps is honom-ed by his tril)e as the bravest man. This disgusting operation is performed by making a circular cut from the lower part of the fore- head inmiediately above the ears. Their teeth are then a]:)plied to separate the scalp. Women captured in battle are reduced to slavery, and doomed, often under fear of the lash and abusive treatment from the Indian family claiming them, to severe labour. In the vicinity of white settlements, these female slaves are sent out, as black slave girls have sometimes been in cities of the Southern States DISSIl'ATKD WMITKS ANO INDIANS. 171 )t' police, hoy wt'i'o I ctiptiiro TouudinL? ig loss ot I perilous ive to be hands of iter ti i'air lie tribes. 3 between on, to be her to son free from L one tribe ber being le ^^iiilt of ceive how, conilicting ^^ kill — tlie war being can boast lis tribe as performed )f the forc- h are then 3d in battle ider fear of lian family ty of white black slave icrn States to (.'arn their living by jjrostitutioii. Subsefiin.', ly tc the tide ofinnnigration in'r)S,aii(l iiiilil the removal i>i ' budge that formerly connected Victoria with the Indian encamp- ment on the opposite side of the harbour, T have witnessed scenes after sunset caUailated to shock even the bluntest sensibilities. The llres of Indian tents ])itched upon the beach casting a lurid glare upon the water ; the loud and discordant whoopings of the natives, several of whom were usually infuriated with bad liquor; the crowds of the more debased miners strewed in vicious concert with squaws on the i)ublic highway, presented a s})ectacle diabolical in the extremi!. YjVL'm now one cannot walk from the ferry up the Esquimalt voi\d by day or by night Avithout encountering the sight of these Indian slaves squatting in considerable numbers in the bush, for what purpose it is not dillicult to imagine, and the extent to which the nefarious practices refeiTcd to are encouraged by the crews of Her Majesty's ships is a disgrace to the service they represent, and a scandid to the countiy. Hundreds of dissipated white men, moreover, live i)ioj)in concubinage with these wretched creatures. So unblush- ingly is this traffic carried on, that I have seen the hus- band and wife of a native family canvassing fi-om one miner's shanty to another, with the view of making as- signations for the dootchiiten (squaws) in their })ossession. On one occasion I saw an Indian woman oflerinL;- to dis- pose of her own child — the oflspring of a guilty alliance with a white man — for 3/., at tlie door of a respectable white dwelling. So hopeless does the moral and religious improvement of the aborigines in the environs of Victoria appear to the Catholic missionaries, that the good bishop of that iiiith in Vancouver Island assured me he felt compelled to gi\-e them up to their reprobate coiu'ses. These self-denying •ITli lln.M.W CATIIOMC MISSIONS. iiH'ii liJivi' toiled loiiLfcr iiiul more Ms.sidiioiisly tijjm tlu? ji^^'ciits of any otlu'i't-rci'd loi'tlieMinulioration of tln'ir con- dition, jind m\] rcluctimt to Mhjmdon any Held of mission- ary operations while tlie least prospeet of suceess remains. The bishop of Uk? English Church, some years ji<ro, erected a school to instruct, reclaim, and elevate them ; an able and zealous clei'iryman was appointed as super- intendent of the mission. IJut, as miuht be expected, the return for these well-intentioned appliances has been so grievously dis})roporti()nate as to be (piite inapi)i'eciable. It should bt! mentioned, liowever, that in distiicts as yet compiu'atively uncontaminated by the evil example of ])i()neer whites, and favoured with the blessings of moral and religious instruction, gratifying results are visil)le, esiiecially among the younger portion of the tribes. In ►South Saanich, a locality with Avhich I am acfpiainted, where a Koman Catholic jn'iest is stationed, the morals of the natives luive hitherto l)een in u tolerably satisfactory condition. Jhit as that district is now becoming [)opu- lated with whites, it were too much to ho})e that the Indians there should form, permanently, an ex(?eptioii to other uative vihages trenched upon by civilisation. A farmer in that neighbourhood, in expressing to me his conlidencc in their honesty, remarked that ' one couldn't pay them to steal' When near the village, one tlay, I met some of the people, and by the assistance of what limited stock of Chinook* I could conmiand, endeavoured to ascertain whether they had any distinct idea of moral obligation. I began by saying : iVika pretre pe waiva copa Km<i George men Sockalli/ Ti/hee. Mika Kumtux okook? I am a minister, and teach white men about God ; do you miderstand this ? ' A woman who was present, thinking I * The jar(>:nn which forms the chief medium of intercourse behvcon the colonists and the natives. ihim till! tlM'ir coii- i ri'inaiuH. til cm ; nil as su})i-'r- ected, tlio i \)iivn so rei'iiibli.'. istricts us xaini)li' ()(' of moral •e visible, ribc's. Ill .'(liminted, monils of itislnctoiy irig [)oi)U- I thiit the ^o])tion to at ion. A ;o me bin couldn't day, I met lit limited voured to of moral L'aica copa ux okook ? d ; do you thiukhig I between tlio TIIIMll INF'IA'K.VCr-: ON TIIM NATION'S. — .» was a j)rii'^t. al once made llie sjnii of die cross nii Iht bi'cMst, and rt|>li«'(l Xim-ilLut \ SiH'kiillii 7)//iii' Sli/u : point- iiiLi' above with her hand, /.it pn-fri' t/inrtf nihi irtnva Klosh. ' Yes, God is ill Ifeaveii. 'riie priest tells me what is <iood.' An old man volunteered (he remark, A'AW/ ////,/ ////// iiihi. HW/(' Klush Kiipsii'dlld — ii'uL'i'Klitsh MihiKilii.sli, — /('(tie K/o.s/i Pt'ri' C/iKc/i. ' I have a ji'ood IkmiI. It is wron<i: to si al, or li.u'ht, or drink whisky.' ArriviiiL- .it C\)wit('Iiin one summer cveninLr, about eiulit o'llock, ill a canoe, after u long day's paddling, I heard the sound of chanting proceeding from the native church, which was erected and su[)plied with altar furniture chiefly, if not entirely, at the expense of the Indians. It was ji log structure, about 50 feet by 21), and on u high situation. At some distance from it, in front, a huge wooden lialin cross stood in the ground, that sacred emblem being usually found in connection with Catholic mission stations. On entering the church I observed a /'irir eiiuaned in teachin*' some Indian lads hymns used in devotional exercises, which they sang "with taste and vigour. On retiring they were careful to sign themselves Avitli the cross. I visited tlie priest, who lived in a humble shanty adjoining the church, and I could not fail to be struck at the exem])lary self- forgetfulness he manifested in his arduous w^ork. lie had lived there for some years before white men settled in the locality; and notwithstanding the utter absence of coni- ibrts, and even scantiness of necessaries that marked his lot, he seemed cheerful and contented. There was no disposition shown by him to put a brighter face on the results of his efforts than facts would justify. Indcjcd, for whatever favourable report I received, I was indebted to disinterested witnesses of his labours. I learned that on Sundays hundreds of natives attended religious service; that monogamy wa^j generally enforced by him with success ; 474 THE SIGN OF THE CliOSS. jiiid tliat in many other respects tlie iiioi-als of the pe()i)]c ■were correct. One case was told me ofiUicit whisky-dealers, who, attempting to land alcohol from their sloops, Avere driven ofT and their casks rolled into the sea. I fear we shoidd look in vain for a dis})lay of similar zeal for the cause of morality and temperance in a Avhite community of the same extent. In re£!:ard to the si«j;n of the cross, to which so much importance is attached in the ceremonies of the Roman Catholic Church, the bishop of that faith in the diocese of Vancouver Island related to me a touching: incident. Wlien that ri<2;ht reverend father first administered Chris- tian ordinances to the Indians at the mouth of the Fraser, tliey were at variance with the Nanaimo tribe. ' The man of prayer,' as they termed the bishop, had occasion, about the time referred to, to visit the latter place in his episco])al tour after leavinii; the Eraser. Those from whom he had recently parted felt so edified by his counsels that they de- termined, at all hazards, to attempt following him. From some cause, however, tliey missed him ; and as their canoes approached Nanaimo, to their dismay they beheld their foes ranged on the beach, prepared to lire upon them. For some time they kept at a safe distance, and held a council among tlicmselves. The conclusion arrived at by them Avas as interesting as it was })acific. They argued that if the enemy were faithful to the instructions of ' the man of ])rayer' they would understand tlie sign of the cross, return it, and allow them to land in peace. They accord- ingly stood up and crossed themselves, at which signal the muskets of the Nanaimo men Avere laid aside, and a cordial Avelcome extended by them to their Christian brethren. It Avas stated to me, on trustworthy authority, that in consequence of Bishop Hills, of the English Church, Avhen travelling' in British Columbia, forbidding the Indians ' SELF-INTERrRETIXC; BlBLi:.' 470 ;he people cy-deulers, x)ps, Avere I fear wc jal I'or the community 1 so mucli the Iloman he diocese 2 incident. I'red Chris- the Fraser, ' The man sion, about lis episco])al iiom he had lat they de- lim. From their canoes )eheld tlieir them. For d a council at by them ued tliat if the man of the cross, ley accord- ^hicli signal aside, and a Christian y authority, lish Church, the Indians this mode of sahitation, he was subjected to some disap- pointment and mortification. Duriiio- one of his visits to that colony tliey mistook him for a lioman Catliolic priest — tlie only description of missionary they had known up to that period — and adopted the sign of Christian free- masonry which has been alluded to. Mothers brought their infants to be baptised by him. But on discovering the Protestant bishop's opposition to their accustomed reli- gious forms, they declined to receive the virtue of his episcoi)al manipulations, and withdrew from him as a dangerous heretic ! I was much interested in being sliown by liishop De Mers a rude symbolic Bible, devised by liimself for the use of the Indian disciples of the lioman Catholic order. It consists of a long slip of paper, on wdiich the [)rincipal events narrated in Scripture, from the creation of the world to the founding of the Christian Church, are illus- trated. The progressive development of the Chmcli of Ivome from that time up to the [)resent is also portrayed. The advantnii'e of the arranu;ement is, that a lar<;e amount of general religious information is contained in remarkably small compass. The Hebrew version reads from light to left, but this ' Self-interpreting JJible ' reads from the bottom upwards. At the foot of the page the globe appears emerging out of chaos, and immediately above stand a male and female figure with a tree between them, re])resenting our first parents partaking of the forbidden fruit. The other details of this invention may be readily guessed at, till we reach the Protestant Eeformation, uj) to which point the line of instruction is intelhgible and straight. Thence another line diverges at riglit angles from the main one, leading olF the page into the abyss. This is marked cheiiu'n de Protestautusnie. Then the straight path of the Churcii continues to Pio Aono, and 47G SHI.FISII MOTIVES IN KI':LIG1()X. () iiwards still to heaven. Captain Mayne states that when at Kaniloops, in liritish Columbia, the chief of the Bhuswap tril)e, pointing to such a print as I have described, hangin<^^ on the Avail, and ])utting his finger U})ou the unhappy ligures tumbling into the pit, laughingly said, ' Theix' are you and your people,' showing the amount of credence that sceptical Siwash attached to it. It may be mentioned, in illustration of the selfish propensities of the Indians, even in connection with religious observances, that when certain members of the Songhish tribe w^ere called l)efore the lioman Catholic bishop for confirmation, after having been duly baptised, they stipulated for a larger present of blankets to be made to them than had been given at their ba])tism as a condition of comi)lying w4th Dr. De Mers' invitation. To rebuke tlie impurity of their motives in reference to a rite so sacred, it is reported that the bisho]) adopted the expedient of making a hole in a large heart which he had painted upon canvas, and draw- inor a blanket through it. A missionary of another sect Avas once trying to prevail upon an Indian to join his denominational school for natives, when, viewing the solicitation of the missionary as a matter of business, he responded in the same spirit, Aoiritka, lon.sick niika 2n>tlatch. ' Yes, I'll go ; but how much will you give me ?' In 1857 the lirst Protestant mission was established among the native tribes, and the progress of it embraces so many interesting facts as to be entitled to some notice liere. The Clun-ch Missionary Society having had their attention called to the condition of the aborigines on the North American coast of the Pacific, determined on sending out a lay agent to commence operations, and selected Mr. Duncan, wdio was trained at Highbury Col- lege, London, for that purpose. After careful delibera- tion as to the most eligible district in which to exercise that Avlieii e Slmswup id, liaiii'inii: 2 luiliappy ■ Til ere are f crctlciicc mentioned, le Indian!>, til at Avlien lied l)efore fter having present of on at their . De Mers' motives in 1 that the hole in a and draw- nother seet to join his ewino- the )usiness, he Hsick mila L give me ? ' establislied t embraces iome notice had their ines on the rmined on [itions, and hbnry Col- d delibera- to exercise MR. DUXCAN'S LAI30UUS. 477 his functions as a Christian teacher, he proceeded to Fort Simpson, a fur-trading depot belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, and situated about a thousand miles nortli of Victoria. This region, containing a lai'ge Indian popu- lation, afforded him special facilities for prosecuting mis- sionary enterprise. The first obstacle of moment he encountei-ed was that selfishness deeply rooted in the savage bretist to which reference has just been made. In a passage from his diary on the subject, Mr. Duncan writes : — To-day a chief called, whose principal anxiety was to ascertain whether I intended giving dollars to the Indians to get them (o send their children to school. I think I shamed him a little — at least, I tried to do so — for entertaining sncli a selfish notion. I have a good many visitors, and all seem desirous of ingra- tiating themselves . . . When they beg, which is generally the case, I mostly satisfy and always lessen their expectations by saying that I have not come to trade. This opens a way to telling them what I iiavc come to do for them ; and in every case, as soon as my object is realised, I hear the oft-repeated ' ahni, alim ' (good, good), and their faces exhibit every expression of joy of which thev are susceptible. ... It is a pity we cannot put their sincerity to the test at once, but I feel that it would not be prudent to do so. Another difficulty mentioned by this worthy labourer, as threatening to interfere with the consumnuition of his wishes, is ' tlieir jealousies and feuds.' It was not long before his ])atient and conciliatory manner won their con- fidence, so that they apphed to him for advice in sickness and trouble. He was soon received in their houses witli every mark of respect. They often assigned him the chi(,'f place near the fire, where they always placed a mat upon a box for him to sit U[)on. 478 IIINDIIANCRS TO MISSIONARY WORK. Ill tlie erection of a new school-liouse, tliey supplied planks for fl(3oring, and bark for the roof; the liberality of some even impelling them to take boards off their own roofs and the pieces tliat formed part of their beds. In a few months the scliool numbered 100 children and 50 adults. Four tribes resolved to abandon the abominable practices connected with the celebration of ' medicine feasts.' Still, these orcjies of heathenism beinf:^ so closely associated with the traditions of the natives, could hardly be expected to be renounced all at once. But to be instrumental in shaking so remarkably the attachment of these people to their ancient follies, indicated the presence of an influence which only the principles of Christianity could exert. I am thankful (writes Mr. Duncan) that I am able to say there is amongst the Indians a great stir of opinion against tlieir heathenish winter-customs, and four of the tribes out of nine have indeed cut them off. Those tribes which still adhere to tiiem are carrying them on exceedingly feebly, so much so that I am assured by all whom I speak to about the matter, that what I now see is really nothing compared with what the system is when properly carried out. They tell me they were afraid to cast the custom away all in one year, but would rather tliat part of it should go tliis year, and the remainder next ; so, according to this, I sincerely hope that this is the last winter any of these savage practices will be seen. Afterw^ards the following paragraph occurs in his journal : — Every day shows me more and more what a dense mass of iirnorance I have come in contact with. I have also now to meet all the evil reports continually emanating from very evil and superstitious persons. Some are watching I believe Tor a calamity to arise and explode the work. Others are in suspense, hoping we shall succeed, but feel afraid we cannot. Some keej) a scrutinising eye over all our movemeiits, and when they feel OPrOSITION OP A ' MKDICINE PARTY.' 471) y supplied ! liberality ' their own )eds. D cliiklrcu mdon the ibnitioii of ml3eiiig«() ives, could e. But to ittachuient icated the Luciples of able to say lo-ainst their out of nine 11 adhere to lucb so that matter, that t the system ere afraid to rather tliat iv next ; so, t winter any Lirs lu his mse mass of also now to )m very evil )elieve Tor a in suspense, Some keep en they feel satisfied we have no tricks to injure them, I suppose they will countenance us. But we go on, and I am glad to hear every day, in contrast with the incessant and horrid drumming of thi' medicine-men, the sweet sound of our steel calling numbers t() hear and learn the way of life. On leaving the school this morning, I spoke to a man who is of considerable power and influence in the camp, as to why lu? did not send his children to scliool, and come himself. Ho replied that he was waiting till the Indians had done with their foolishness and dancing, which time was not far distant ; then he would come. He both wanted himself and his children to learn, but would not come yet, as it is not good, he said, to mix his ways and mine together. He intended soon to give up his, and then he would come to school. This afternoon he just dropped into school simply as a gazer ; he would join in nothing. Again he writes : — I inspect them [his pupils] daily. Some few have ventured to come with their faces painted, hut we have less of it daily. A good many too have cast away their nose-rings, yet some come who have very large ones in use still. After school-teaching was over this morning, a chief remained behind — he had a serious difficulty. His people, who liad befoi'e; decided to give up their medicine working, were beginning fo repent of their decision. According to the chiefs statement, they professed themselves unable to leave off what had been such a stronji" and universal custom amonfj them for afjfes. I was told . . . that the head chief of the Indians is going to ask me to give up my school for about a month, his comphiinf being that the children running past his house and from scliodl tended to unsettle him and his party from working their mys- teries. . . . I se9 now that, although I have been as careful as pos- sible not to give unnecessary offence, yet a storm is in the horizon. As I went tluougli part of the camp on my way to the school this morning, I met a strong medicine party full in the face . . Tlieir naked prodigy was carrying a dead dog, whicli he occa- sionally laid down and feasted uj»on. While a little l)oy was 480 SCKXE AT THE JIISSIOX SCHOOL. striking the steel for meat scliool, some oftlie pcarty made tlieir appearance near the school, I imagine, for all at once the boy begun to be irregular and feeble in his stroke, and when I looked up at him, I saw he was looking very much afraid. On encjuiring the cause, he told me the medicine folks were near : I told him to strike away, and I stood at the door of the school. Some few stragglers of the medicine party were hovering about, but they did not dare to interfere with us. When all were; assembled, and the striking ceased, my adult pupils commenced a irreat talk . . . After a little time the chief came, and told me the Indians were talking bad outside, by which [ imder- stood that the medicine folks had been usiii''- more threats to stop us. ... On nearing the Fort, I met one of the most important men in the medicine business — a chief, and father to one of the little boys that are Ijeing initiated . . . He told me that if they did not make their medicine-men as they had alwtays been used to do, then there would be none to frustrate the designs of these bad men who made people sick, and therefore deaths wouhl be more numerous from the effects of the evil workings of such bad men. This morning the medicine party, who are carrying on their work near to the school, broke out with renewed fury, because, as they assert, the child of the head chief had just returned from above. The little boy that lights my lire came in great excitement to tell me that the head chief was not willing for me to have school to-day, and was anxious to know if I intended going. He seemed greatly amazed at my answer. On going to school I observed a crowd of these wretched men in a house that I was approaching. When they turned to come out, they saw me coming, and immediately drew back till I had passed. This afternoon a boy ran to strike the steel, and not many seconds elapsed before I saw the head chief approaching, and a whole gang of medicine-men after him, dressed up in their usual charms. The chief looked very angry, and bade the boy ceiise. I waited at the door until he came up. His first effort was to rid the school of the few pupils that had just come in. He shouted at the top of his voice and bade them be off. I immc- made their ce the hoy 1(1 when I fraid. On were near : tlie school. rin^i>' about, ■n all were commenced e, and told li I imder- 3 threats to t important 3 one of th(3 that if they ■s been used o-uH of these lis would be n""s of sucii inir on their ry, because, st returned lie in oTcat willing' for I intended On going to in a house le (tut, they ad passed, d not many ohing, and a Q their usual e boy cease. ffort was to »uie in. He f. I imnie- TIIE ANGRY CHIEF. 481 diately accosted him, and demanded to know what he intended or expected to do. His gang stood about the door, and I think seven came in. I saw tlieir point; it was to intimidate me by their strength and frightful appearance, and I perceived the chief, too, was somewhat under the influence of rum. But the Lord enabled me to stand calm and without tlie slightest fear to address them with far more fluency in their tongue than I could have imagined possible. ... I told them that God was my master, and that I must obey Him rather than them. ... I saw a great many people at a distance, looking anxiously at our proceedings. Nearly all my pupils had fled in feai-. The chief expressed himself very passionately ; now and then breaking out into furious langua<;e, and showing off his savage nature by his gestures. Sometimes I pacified him by what I said for a little time, but he soon broke out again with uku'o violence. Towards the close of the scene, two of his con- federates — vile-looking fellows — went and whispered something to him ; upon which he got up from a seat he had just sat down upon, stamped his feet on the floor, raised his voice as liigli as he could, and exhibited all the rage and defiance and boldness that he could. . . . We had not gone on long before the chief returned to school. He gave a long knock on the door with a stick. I went to open it, and my pupils began to squat about for shelter. When he came in, I saw he was in rather a dilferent mood ; and he began to say that he was not a bad man to tlie white people, but thai: he had always borne a good character with them. . . . The leading topics of the chief's angry clamour I nia}'^ class as follows : — He requested four days' suspension of the school. He promised that if I complied, he and his people would then come to school ; but threatened, if my pupils continued to come on the following days, he would shoot at them. Lastly, he pleaded that if the school went on during the time he specified, then some medicine-men, whom he expjcted on a visit shortly from a distant tribe, would shame and perhaps kill him. Some of his sayings during his fits of rage were that he under- stood how to kill people, occasionally drawing his hand across his throat to show me what he meant ; that when he died, he I I 482 TEMPTATIONS TO CONVERTS, should go flown ; he could not cliange ; he coidd not be good ; or if I made him good, why then he .suj)))o.sed he should go to a different |)lace from his forefather.^ ; this he did not desire to do. On one occasion, while he was talking, he looked at two men — one of them a regular pupil of mine, and the other a medicine- man — and said, ' I am a muiderer, and so are you, and you (pointing to each of these men); and what good is it for us to come to school?' .... While in school there was a frightful outLurst of the medi- cine parties, setting the whole of the camp round about in a kind of terror. A party were with their naked prodigy n the beach when I went out of the school. From tlicsc extracts some idea may be formed of tbc vexations borne by Mr. Duncan at the begiiuiing of bis career. But a noble ambition to elevate the social and religious condition of the Indian lightened the burden of bis toils. Sucli an enterprise was sufliciently onerous to one cbeered by tbe presence of Cbristian sympathy ; but his isolated situation, struggling Avithout a pit)us com- panion of eitber sex to share bis anxieties and labours, was fitted to deepen the interest felt by tbe religious i:)ublic at borne in bis belialf. At length a clergyman and bis wife were sent to bis assistance ; but after a short residence were obliged to return to I]ngland from ill health. Again he was left alone ; and although his physical strength was impaired by the pressure of his duties, his zeal w^as not relaxed. Finding, however, that the proximity of tbe company's fort to the native settlement offered temptations to liis con- verts, and exposed them to the demoralising visits of illicit rum-traders, be resolved to move to a safe distance from the snares attending the liquor traffic. lie accordingly chose a suitable neigbboiu'bood for the new sphere of liis operations, about twenty miles up the Sim^^son lUvcr, called he ^'ood ; Id {^o to a lot desire wo men — mediciue- , and you i fur us to the medi- ibout in a igy n the cd of the iiig of Ills social and burden of Dnerous to atliy ; but ions coin- d labours, religious ent to his obliged to e ^vas left impaired relaxed, company's to his con- ts of illicit ance from ccordingly lere of his iver, called NEW ClIKISTIAX RFi:TTLEMi:\T. 4 S3 Metlakatlah ; and during tlie i)a,st four year.'* a woi'k li:is been acc()m[)lislie(l tliere v/lKy^e success lias rarely if ever been equalled in tlie liistory of missions to tlie lieatlien. Only those natives wlio agreed to give u]) idolali'ous and innnoral practices, and strictly conform to the regula- tions under which the new Christian settlement was formed, were ])ermittcd to enjoy its advantages. A severe probationary course Avas imposed, and many in attesting their sincerity submitted to it ])atiently, and are now exemplary in the performance of tlieir moral and religious duties. It was m.ade a condition of citizenshi}) that each house should be built, no lonu'cr resembliuiT: the Indian lodges, but according to a civilised ])lan. For this ])ur- pose prepared timber is imported, and shingles for rooling are manufactured by the natives. Habits of cleanliness and modes of dress like those ])i-evailini; amonu; white men are enforced. Besides large mission premises, a public market and court-house have been erected, and separate apartments are })rovided for the acconunodation of Indian tribes who come to trade, that the fdth and cflluvia attaching to the persons of these strangers may not be allowed to pollute the dwellings or the society of the fixed inhabitants. After ?<«reformed tillicuins have taken their departure, the building occupied by them during their stay is cleaned and fumigated by the resi- dents, according to a definite sanitaiy arrangement. A school for instruction in the rudiments of an English education is established, I'oads are in process of forma- tion, and an efficient body of native police is organised, the force being equii)ped in a senii-mihtary uniform that compares fixvourably with what is worn by the constabu- lary in Victoria. A prison also exists, and magisterial jurisdiction is intrusted to Mr. Duncan, who was invested ])y Governor Douglas with a commission of the peace. 1 1 -2 484 INGENUITY OF THE NATIVES. To sustain the public administration of the native colony a tax is levied, payable in money, blankets, or produce. As the commerce, agriculture, and manufactures of the settlement are developed, Mr. Duncan contemplates en- couraging the general circulation of United States currency instead of barter as the medium of business negotiations. Adult statute-labour is also required in making roads. To enable the people to meet i)ersonal and Governmental claims, they are trained to various branches of industry, such as cultivating the soil, extracting oil, hunting furs, gathering berries. Skilled occupations are also gradually being introduced among tlicm. A schooner has recently been purchased for conveying native commodities to Vic- toria, and bringing back supi)lies. When the colleague of Mr. Duncan came to Victoria in charge of freight some time since, he assured me that it met with a ready sale, and in that one trip he realised in behalf of the native exporters several hundred pounds. If that interesting settlement can be so far civilised before the vices of the whites approach it (which they are certain to do eventually in the progress of adventure and British colonisation), as to be rendered proof against immoral contagion, who can tell to what extensive proportions the present nursling may grow ? The tribes are by no means destitute of ingenuity. Their canoes, which are made by hollowing out the trunks of trees, are finished with taste and skill, and are believed to supply the pattern after which clipper sliips are built. Their carvings in slate and chasing in metals are usually neat, and some of the Songhies manufacture elegant rings and bracelets out of gold and silver. In a short time, and for a small consideration, they will beat out a sovereign to its utmost tenuity, fold up the extended gold, and return it to the owner in the form of a finger-ring. INDUSTRIAL ARTS AND MISSIONS. 485 re colony produce. 29 of the ilates en- currency foliations, ng roads. 3rnmental industry, iting furs, gradually is recently [cs to Vic- colleague njflit some ready sale, the native interesting ces of the eventually onisation), contagion, le present ingenuity. g out the 1, and are )per sliips in metals lanufacture ver. In a Mrill beat e extended finger-ring. The matting and ornamented slippers they prepare are well known. Let this faculty for contrivance but be diverted into channels of more economic value, and an important step has been taken towards the civilisation of these aborigines. It is to the achievement of this object that the exertions of Mr. Duncan are directed in conjunc- tion with tlie inculcation of Christian teaching ; and the statements of that gentleman, to which I have had an opportunity of hstening from his own lips, are such as to impress the most incredulous with the conviction that the undertaking is practicable. On suggesting to him, the desirableness of his translating exceipts from tlie Scriptures into their language, he re[)lied tliat it would be his endeavour to make English so general among the people as the medium of speaking and writing, that sucli labour would be rendered superfluous. I have heard read, by Mr. Duncan, letters written in English by yoimg men under his care — some of them love letters — and I have no hesitation in saying that they would do no dis- credit to farm-labourers of the same age in England. I am not personally familiar with the working of British missions in Polynesia ; but from interviews I liave had v/ith eminent missionaries who have s[)ent many years among the native islanders of the South Seas, I infer that secular knowledge and the industrial arts of civilifsed life had not at first so special a place assigned tliem in the missionary programme as tliey now have. Tliese indispensable auxiliaries of civilisation did not, I know, formerly receive from American missionaries in tlie Sandwich Islands the attention they merited, and, conse- quently, the results of their zealous and sincere exertions were, in most instances, sadly out of proportion to the time, strength, and money expended in connection with theu' work. I trust I do not detract from the dignity of 48(1 UKLIOION AM) CIVILIZATIOX, tlic3 inissioiiiuy ciill'mg or froiii tliu power of tlic Cliristiiiii ri'li^ioii ill sii<i'^f('stiii_^ that tliu arU uiid iiistitutioiis of civilisud lifu ought to bo fostered side by side with the ('oiniiiuirK'jitioii of ivhuious iiistnit'tioii. Tiiese nils and institutions create new and elevating social relations, and open up the most worthy spheres to be; found in this world for the exercise of Christian virtues, the strengthen- ing of heavenly princi[)les, and the development of the Divine life. The Protestant doctrine of 'justification by faith alone,' when acce[)ted in a suitable manner, it is admitted, sup- plies to frail humanity the (jraml niotire-pturer for a new hfe. J3ut that the Gospel may not degenerate, as it too often does, into .HOitiiueiitaHsin or jh/uitlci.sni, the duties of the regenerate state must be systematically and con- tinuously placed before the ccmvert for the enlightenment of his conscience, the control of his feelings, and the guidance of his purposes. At the beginning of a Christian career there is experienced an earnest desire to evince gratitude to our heavenly Father I'or the discovery thai lias been made of high and comforting truth. But for the spiiitual force inherent in that sentiment to be pro- perly utilised, tlie various relations of the man to the all'airs of this life and the next should be explained, and the particular diiiies belonging to these relations clearly enunciated. For safe and speedy ti'avelling by locomotive, rails must be laid as well as steam generated, and without attention to the cultivation, in detail^ of those moral habits, industrial enterprises, and refined accom- plishments that go, coUevtivcly, to make up what Ave de- signate civilisation, we shall look in vain for the full reahsation of that multiform blessing. This is true even in regard to Christendom ; how much more so, therefore, to the abodes of Paganism ! TIIIIKATKXKI) KXTIXCTION OF WTIVKS. ■1S7 Clirisli;m tutiniis of ; -with tlic ! urts and itiouH, and 1(1 iiL this tixMiutlioii- I'Ut ut' tliu lith iilonr,' lilted, siip- i'or a iiL'W I', as it too til (J dutlL'S ^ and coii- glitcunicnt s, and the a Cliristiaii to evince oveiy tliat But lor to be pro- lan to the explained, e relations K veiling by generated, //, of those ed acconi- lat we de- )r the ///// 5 true even , therefore, To those missionaries, therefore, who have been adopt- ing th(? exclusively religious plan of action, I coininend the enlighteiied example of Mr. Duncan. The ntitiil (/lnitniiti<ui and fhrati'/u'd (Wttncthni of thi' primitive inhabitants <»f the American continent and the islands of the Pacific, is a fact of melancholy interest to the Christian philantlii'o|)ist and the man of s(;ience ; and the enquiry naturally aiises whether the exclusively ICvan- gelistic method generally adopted by missionaries is the most edectual that could be devised to avert this doom. The Indian population of North America three centu- ries ago was estimated at 2(),()()(),()0(). Now it does not reach 2,()()0,()()(). Progress toward decay has been almost e([ually I'einarkable among the aborigines of t^outli America. In 177r», when Captain Cook visited Tahiti, the native poi)ulation of tluit island numbered 20(),U()() ; and by a census taken twelve years ago, it was shown to be reduced to (S,00() or 1),()0(). The Sandwich Islanders, who about the same ])erio(l numbered 40(),()()v), m November 1840, only reached 8(),()41, with an excess of deaths over births of (],4G5 annually. In an official report of the condition of the aborigines of Australia, publisiied a few years ago, their case was thus described : 'The uni- form result of all enquiry on the subject of the numbers of the Australian aboiigines exhibits a decrease in the ])opulation of those districts which have been overspread by colonial enterprise.' An Adelaide newspaper, [)ub- lislicd subsequently, contained the following statement : — ' The steady disappearance of the natives is what every rei)ort upon tiieir condition most uniformly points to, al- though everything is done that could promise to alleviate the discomforts of their condition,' The native Tasmanians, notwithstaudiu!' the strenuous eflbrts of benevolence and reliii'iun to save them, it is understood, have all without 488 FATE OF INDIAN RACES. exception perished. In 1830 tlie number of tlie Maorics, with whom tlie colonial authorities of New Zealand have of late been unhappily brought in colhsion, was estimated at 180,000. Two years ago that superior aboriginal population was found reduced to 55,275. The present war will, doubtless, immensely augment the rate of diminution. It has been calculated that at the end of 100 years hence their extinction will be complete. An able writer, * On a Point too much lost Sight of on Missions,' in discussing this topic, aptly remarks : ' Macaulay's oft- quoted saying about the j)ossibility of a future Xew Zea- lander yet surveying the ruins of London Bridge and the great metropolis around, is often applied by the unthink- ing to some civilised descendant of the present Maori race. But the historian was far too well read to commit himself to so wild an imagination — it must have been some one 6[)rung from the white colonists he had mentally before him when he wrote.' The Indians of the Delaware, memorable as having been favoured with the self-sacri- ficiiig labours of David Brainerd, are reported to be now wholly extinct ; and the Bible which that indefatigable missionary, at so much pains translated into the native tongue, is now consequently a dead letter to every Indian living in the New World. Humboldt, when visiting South America in 180G, was shown a parrot which chat- tered in a language that no one could understand, and the reason Avas discovered to be that every vestige of the tribe accustomed to use that particular form of speech had been effaced from the globe. The fate of the native churches of Greenland and Labrador, associated with the eminent devotion of the Moravian pioneers, points in the same gloomy direction. Already the enquiry has been suggested in view of primitive races so rapidly disappear- ing, whether instruction in the useful arts and training in modes of civilised language, customs, and government lie Maories, aland have ;S estimated aboriginal ?he present le rate of send of 100 . An able 1 Missions,' :aulay's oft- e Xew Zca- Ige and the le unthink- Maori race, mit himself in some one tally before Delaware, e self-sacri- to be now idefatigable the native very Indian en visiting vhicli chat- rstand, and tige of the of speech the native id with the )ints in the has been disappear- training in government WHAT OF AFRICANS, HINDOOS AND CHINESE? 489 sliould not invariably be alhed with the inculcation of Christian doctrine, and employed as auxiliaries in arresting the progress of decay, and raising them in the sade of humanity. The author, from whom I have just quoted, touches on a question of equally vital moment, which ought to be seriously pondered by the directors of mis- sionary societies in Europe and America, who exi)end such vast sums of money annually in attemptmg to convert the h(;athen. ' Wc strongly hold,' says he, ' that missions to tribes about to dc[,.ii% leaving behind them so few traces that they ever existed^ are much less important than those to nations destined to increase in number and in iiijluencefor centuries yet to come.' There is, unquestionably, great force in the remark ascribed to the late Duke of Wellington, and addressed to a clergyman who was sceptical as to the pro[)riety of so much enthusiasm being displayed by Christians at home in the conversion of Pagans, while so much ignorance, vice, crime, profanity, and squalor invited the efforts of devout philanthropy in civilised conununities of the old world and our colonies. The ' marching-orders ' of the Divine Commander-in-chief must be imi)licitly obeyed. But no one who has happened to possess opportunitit^s of })t'rsonally inspecting the results of certain ' foreign ' mis- sionary operations can withstand the temptation to consider the subject from a human point of view, and in the light of absolute fact. We are painfully familiar witli the sweeping annihilation of the aborigines that has followed contact between them and the white races in the Caribetin Sea and many ]^arts of the American continent. Preceding statistics would seem to excite apprehensions of the almost certain extinction, eventually, of the natives in Polynesia. We naturally chng to the hope that Africa, India, China, and Japan will, in the permeation of these countries with the concomitants of civilisation, form a splendid exception 490 CHANCES OF BARBAROUS RACES SURVIVING. to tlie ravages introduced by the superior races, under Avliicli so many millions of aborigines lut e elsewhere been efTaced. The future development of our political, social, and commercial relations with these countries may be attended with modifying circumstances tliat will secure the realisation of our humane desires and Christian hopes, and render civilised intercourse with them more of an unmingled blessing than it has proved in the case of the decaying tribes to which reference has been made. So limited is the extent, however, to which these seats of barbarism have been occupied by the whites that we arc unable as yet to determine whether extensive contact between them and tlic original inhabitants will be suc- ceeded by tribal dissolution, as in the instances previously cited. If our opinions be influenced by the analogy of history — as they cannot fail in some measure to be — we must acknowledge that there is some occasion for fear. Past events bearing on this topic incline me to the impression that the chances of a barbarous people surviving the fatal consequences of their country being largely popu- lated by the ichite race are simply in proportion as the degree of intellectual and moral vitality possessed by the na- tives may be adequate to resist the virus of demoralisation by which they are inevitably impregnated on first being brought in contact with white society. The races that are pal- pably falling to decay were predisposed, perhaps by ages of growing degeneracy, to absorb the moral poison with whicli they have been inoculated by the whites.* Shall the barbarous tribes with whom we are, as yet, but partially in comnmnication, be prepared to stand the momentous • Lot it not be pupposocl that tlio excesses of civilisation are the sole causa of savafi'e tribes melting' avray. I have been informed by those who were .stationed at foi'ts of the Hudson's Bay Company in the wilds of the interior, where the strictest abstemiousness was practised, that the initives in their neighbourhood died olf. The plainest diet used by the while man, if adopted by red skins, is of itself sufhcient to occasion depopulation amonfj them. :g. FEAR AND HOPE. 491 COS, iineler vliere been ical, social, 3S may be kvill secure ;tian hopes, Qore of an case of the made. So ise seats of that we arc Lve contact ^rill be suc- 5 previously analogy of ! to be — we I for fear, me to the de surviving mjely popu- rtion (IS the id by the na- mlisation by eiiKj brought lat are pal- aps by ages poison with .* Shall the mi partially momentous re the sole causo those who were s of the interior, imtivort in their man, if adoptetl mony: them. test when, in future generations, it comes to be severely a[)plied ? Shall they have the stamina requisite to bear the shock inflicted by our vices, and to conserve the power requisite to assimilate the good avc have to impart? The empire of the Incas, the subjects of Monte Zuma, and the fellow-countrymen of Pochahantas, exhibited intellectual and moral qualities compared with whicli th(3se of the most favourable African types are not worthy to be mentioned. Nevertheless, at the appearance of the adventurous explorers who arrived from the shores of Europe, by wliom their countries were severally invaded, they vanished like a dream. Is the fear, then, utterly U'roundless that under similar conditions, in future aires, a corresponding fate may overtake the Negro race? For the Chinese, Hindoos, and Japanese, I anticipate, as has already been stated, a more promising destiny. Defective as are their respective systems of moi'ality and religion in compari- son with Christianity, Brahminism and Buddhism both con- tain moral precepts, and set before their votaries patterns of virtue calculated to enkindle pure and exalted aspira- tions. The existenceof caste in India precludes the free circu- lation of ennobling principles among the great body of the natives. Not so, however, in China, where, notwithstanding the professed absolutism of the Emperor, a healthfid s])ii-it of democracy prevails in political, social, and religious life, and receives discipline and guidance in no trilhng degree from a national system of education adapted to bi-ace the faculties alike of rich and poor, who enter the li.^^ts as competitors for literary honours. The same lemarks are !-ubstantially applicable to the Japanese. Still, the nearest approach we can make to a solution of the })roblem afl'ectin"" the full contact of these varieties of the Monu'o- lian type with certain portions of the Caucasian race is, at best, only conjecture. The observation of some in barbarous countries has 492 now IS A NATION CIVILISED? prompted the question, how far the distinctive pecuHarities of the Christian rehgion are entitled to credit as an agency in civilisation? It has been asserted that a nation is civilised merely to that degree in which it comprehends and obeys the laws, ascertained by experience, which govern physical and moral life, and that a barbarous nation, if at all susceptible of being elevated permanently in enterprise, principle, and conduct, ascends to the level of the superior people, by finding out, in the first instance, in what respects it can profit commercially by friendly understanding with them, and then, by spontaneously conforming to the spirit, customs, and ultimately laws of those with whom it thus becomes profitably associated. It is maintained that the primary step towards the social improvement of a hopeful Pagan nation consists in appeal- ing to that strongest susceptibility in our common nature, the principle of self-interest, and that the result will be a desire for increasingly nearer relations, till at length the faith and practice of the more cultivated nation are imi- tated. But upon this point the mind of the reader, like that of the writer, believing in Christianity, is probably made up, thus rendering argument in opposition to such a view unnecessary. At the same time it is to be regretted that there should be so much ground apparently for scep- ticism as to the efficiency of religion in the process of civilisation. How feeble the hold it often takes upon those most conversant with its doctrines, and how com- paratively slight the reformation it sometimes produces among the heathen ! It is, indeed, distressing that the enemies x)f the Christian faith should have so much room for casting at us the reproach that the evil practices of the white man have ever been more potent to ruin the aborigines than his Gospel is to save them. eculiarities an agency nation is nprehends ice, which barbarous lanently in le level of it instance, )y friendly •ntaneously 3ly laws of associated. s the social 3 in appeal- ion nature, It will be a length the on are imi- [•eader, like s probably ion to such e regretted ;ly for scep- process of takes upon [ how com- 3S produces ig that the much room practices of to ruin the 493 CHAPTER XVII. EMIGRATION. Inducements offered— Classes encourag-ed to emigrate— Capitalists wanted —Manufactures that might be introduced— Climate inviting to retired OiRcers and Men of moderate Means— Openings for respectable Females —Dancing round a Bonnet— Cautions to Emigrants— Rates of Wages— Trices- Routes from England— Hints as to choice of Vessel and Outfit — Hindrances to colonial Progress- Necessity for direct Postal Commu- nication with England— Claims of young Colonies on the Aid of England —Trade for an English Steamer in the North Pacific— Contrast between the United States and England in their Care for New Territories — Error of the Government in disposing of Irish Emigration — Emigration the most important Question of the Day. The inducements offered by these colonies to persons in the parent country desirous of improving their condition have been already submitted in the delineation of their varied resources and industrial pursuits given in preceding pages. Gold, silver, copper, coal, timber, fisheries, agri- culture, and commerce, compose the main elements of our colonial wealth. But that the country may be enriched by these they must be developed by the expendi- ture of the circulating medium and the application of labour. In enumerating the classes for whose reception these colonies are prepared, I should emphatically assign capitalists the foremost place. It is only the enterprise of individuals and companies possessed of adequate means that can make the country as rapidly prosperous as the invaluable and inexhaustible resources it contains would 404 EMIfiRATIOX. justify us ill expecting it shoiiltl become. Tliese remarks, liowever, are not intended to tlirow any discoui'agement in the way of emigrants wlio can carry notliing with tliem but skilled labour. The sequel will show that uo other ]5ritish colonies at present yield higher remuneration to the industriijus artisan in proportion to the expense of living. Ihit we want capital to open the way for the wider and steadier em[)loyment of labour. The success of the few wealthy firms that have entered the field and engaged in large enterprises foreshadows the vast profits waiting to be reaped by those who are prepared, without delay, to follow their example. It is admitted tliat one or two English companies proposing to take up certain mining schemes have met with reverses. But it is well known that the flulure of their plans has arisen mainly from tlu; unsuitable character of a<j^ents selected for carryiiif? them out, or from not laying their basis of operations in an economical manner. Throughout England there is a larcje number of handi- craftsmcix, not absolutely in the situation known as ' from hand to mouth,' who, nevertheless, have great difliculty in linding standing room or making headway in the com- petitive struggle incident to tlie crowded business-high- ways of the parent country. This is a class that I invite to emigrate to our North Pacific colonies, in the full assurance of their doing well. Lumbermen with money sufficient to erect their own saw-mills ; parties of copper miners who would unite their limited capital and be prepared to work on for a couple of years without seeking extraneous help ; salt manufacturers, in a position to dig their wells, and fix their pumps and evaporating pans ; millers with means enough to construct and run a pair or two of stones ; ])itch and resin mmiufacturers who could remarks, •Miremeiit ith them no other ration to of CLASSES NOT WANTKD. 405 vuler and ■ tlie few iG;ao:ed in ^^aiting to delay, to c or two in mining Lill known from tlie V'ing them ons in an of handi- as ' from (liculty in the com- ness-high- atl invite the full th money of copper 1 and be it seeking on to dig ng pans ; a pair or ho could em])loy hands to extract the crude materials from our pine forests ; fishermen from tlie British coasts accustomed to sail their own vessels ; managers of collieries desirous of starting business on their own account ; tile and coarse pottery manufacturers ; glass and bottle blowers ; brewers ; graziers, pig-feeders, curers, and packers of pork ; persons in the petroleum oil trade with a good connection in New York ; dealers in oil-lamps importing from the same city; importers of American cooking and heatiug stoves from some place of manufacture in the eastern States ; carpenters, cabinet-makers, wheelwrights, engine- drivers,, saddlers, blacksmiths, stonemasons, ct)mpositors, boiler-makers, brass-founders, tailors, English and Ame- rican boot-importers, and shipbuilders. Skilled labourers and shopmen of these various kinds, if jiossessed on land- ing of from 100/. to 500/., and resolved to exercise for a few years a moderate amount of patience, discretion, and application, are certain to succeed. There, doubtless, are many other branches of industry which do not happen to occur to me at the present moment, that, in the hands of small capitalists, would prove as remunerative as any that liave been specified. Let it not be supposed, however, that I am urging, at this early period of our colonial existence, the indis- criminate emigration of mere labour. Men of bold heart and strong arms will carve their way anywhere, and what mislit seem insurmountable difficulties to others, will dis- appear before them. But those destitute of these qualities and of capital besides, are counselled to seek their fortune in some older and more settled community. Clerks, poor gentlemen of education and breeding in quest of Government appointments, governesses, school- masters, adventurers without funds and trained to no par- ticular employment — all such classes are cautioned not to 496 EMIGRATION. come. Openings even for them, however, will, in the course of events, arise when the development of the country is more advanced. It is unnecessary to repeat what has been already said in the chapter on agriculture respecting the advantages offered to small farmers with large families and to farm labourers. Officers retired from service in the army and the navy, and other gentlemen having a few thousand pounds at command, would find Vancouver Island a delightful place of residence, and have no difficulty in meeting with safe and profitable investments. Their means are at present perhaps put out in property, mortgage, bank shares, foreign bonds, or the public funds, bringing them in from 4 to 7 per cent, per annum ; while in Vancouver Island from IJ to 2 per cent, per month may at any time be obtained, and in some parts of British Columbia from 3 to 4 per cent, per month on unquestionable landed security. The climate, especially in the island, would be found peculiarly in- vigorating to constitutions debilitated in tropical latitudes, and the scenery lovely beyond description. The same amount of capital, if rightly invested, would furnish a larger share of the comforts of life in Vancouver Island than it possibly could in England. Within a few miles of Victoria it is in the power of a gentleman of small fortune to buy an extent of acreage that in the vicinity of an English town would be valued as a handsome estate. Building his own house, the only expensive item in living would be servants, which supply of eggs, milk, &c., raised on his farm, would more than countci balance. Respectable females, neither afraid nor ashamed to work as domestic servants, are greatly in demand. Strong and active young women, qualified to serve as efficient cooks and housemaids, would have no difficulty in obtaining DEMAND FOR FKMALKS, 4o: ill, in the 3nt of the ready said advantages rid to farm il the navy, pounds at rhtful place y with safe 1 at present ires, foreign m 4 to 7 per :'om IJ to 2 incd, and in icr cent, per 'he climate, culiarly in- '.al latitudes, The same d furnish a uver Island few miles of mall fortune cinity of an ome estate, em in living :, &c., raised h /• med to work Strong and licient cooks in obtaining from 47. to 5/, ])ov nionlli and bonrd. So much is the want of this class felt, that if 501) girls of good cluiructcr and industrious habits could be sent out in dctacluncuts of fifty in eacli vessel, and at intervals of a mouth, tluy would be absorbed almost immediately on their ari'ival. But the presence of tliis sex is as urgently required on social and moral grounds. Tliere are many well-disposed single men prospering in the various trades and professions, who are anxious to adopt tlie country as their home. ]3ut the scope for selecting wives is so limited that they feel compelled to go to California in search of tlieir in- teresting object, and not unfre(|uently are tliey tempted to remain on American soil — their industry as ])roducers and expenditure as consimiers being lost to the colonies. There is no teri'itory on the globe presenting to unmarried virtuous females such opportunities of entering that state upon which every right-minded woman cannot but look Avith approval. Througji the lil)erality of JMiss Burdett Coutts and others, we were favoured some years ago with two shi])- ments of female immigrants, about 120 in .all. Tliere wns too little care exercised in the selection of tliem, by those directing the movement, and some, in consequence, turned out badly. But all who conducted tiiemselves pro[)ei'ly have had oITersof marriat»:e, and most of them have l(jn<^ since become participants of conjugal felicity. An amusing example of tlie homage paid to women by the mining popidation was related to me by a i'riend who pursued that calling for a while in California. lie (nid his companions of the same camp had for a year and a half been toihng where the beams of a woman's smile did not reach them. The news arrived on one occasion of a ' lady ' having come to a place twenty miles from where they wei'e located. They instantly laid aside their picks and sliovels, K Iv 408 EMUIKATIOX. and Ji^rct'd upon cclcbratinj^ the event by enjoying a few (lays' li(>li(1ay. When tliey came to the longed-for spot, the poor fellows found their bright hopes balked ; no fair form such as their imacrination had depicted was visible. ~ I But they were fortunate enough to alight on a woman's bonnet, and soothed their disappointed feelings by forming a ring and dancing round it. Emigrants should guard against the error of supposing that ein])loyment is inoHt cerfdiii of being secured in large towns, Melbourne, San Fi-ancisco, and, more i-ecently, Victoria, Auckland, and Dunedin, furnish proofs of the folly of remaining long in such centres, after a vigorous attem])t has been made at settlement. A large and sud- den influx of people into ti\e sea-ports of gold-producing countries is necessarily attended with a temporary glut in the labour market.' "When thousands rushed to Melbouine in 1850 and succeeding years, instances of starvation, dis- ease, and other miseries, were not infrequent. ' I have seen,' writes a resident in that city, 'scores of persons sleeping about the wharves, and in iron boilers, packing- cases, or on the bare earth.' In the city of Victoria, in 18G2, it was equally distressing to observe numbers of young men, whose minds were inlhimed with romantic ideas of making sudden fortunes, and who had left comfortable homes without having any distinct knowledge of the hard- shi[)s to be undergone, in that year, before the mines coidd be reached, or the gold extracted, driven to the necessity of earning a living by working on the roads. Poor im- migrants, whatever be the sort of business to which they have been trained, should, under all circumstances, be de- termined, on their arrival, to accept without murmuring whatever occupation comes first to hand, rather than allow the wolf inside their doors. So far from ena'amno; in hum- ble labour putting any barrier in the path of an innni- ng a few -for spot, I ; no fair IS visible. . woman'H y fonnin{^ RATKS or WACIKS. 41>!l siipposiufjf 1 ill larj^fe recently, 3fs of the I vijioroiis anil sud- proilnein,L^ iry glut in Melbourne ration, clis- ' I have of persons <, packing- /"ictoria, in unnbers of lantic ideas onifortable f the hard- nines could e necessity Poor im- vhich they ces, bo de- murmuring than allow ng in hum- ' an immi- grant's advancement, if lu^ possess qualities to fit liim for higlier sphei'es, he will in the end be more res[)ecte(l foj' the courage and endurance displayed in his state of appa- rent humiliation. I have known a youth begin hiscureei" as ji colonist by bi'eaking stones for a roiid contractor. Ilis master, a cultivated man, learning the social position of the lad's family, and his personal claims to notice, soon liad him as a visitor at his house, upon terms of ])erfect equality with his family. Now, by dint of energy, that young man has become partner in a respectable establish- ment in the colony. l>ut my advice to new comers gene- rally is, that if they ex])erience daik prosj)L'cls in the cities Du the coast, they should lose no time in looking for some- thing to do in the districts of the interior. Those who have a Avish to try mining life, and are unacquainted, practically, with its hazards and privations, should endeavour to consider soberly, beforehand, whether their hopes of success are well founded. Multitudes have ])rospered in digging for the ])reeious metal beyond tlieir most sanguine expectations; many more, whose knowledge, tact, and perseverance would seem to render them equally deserving of a fortune.have failed. That will cimtinue to be the order of things. Only let the mind of the hardy mining emigrant be made up on this point. The mines are a s])e- cies of lottery, and luck more than dil'iijence has often to do with the result of mining operations. Hates of war/es can only be s])eciried here generally. In all cases labour commands at least three times the remune- ration it does in England, and often much more than that. Blacksmiths, bricklayers, painters, wheelwrights, &c., re- ceive about 16.S. per day; house carpenters from 12.s'. (u/. to l(js. per day; bakers from 8/. to 12/. per month; butchers from 121. to IGL per month ; barbers, when on their own account, usually charge 2.% Id. for liaircutting K K 2 )0() DMUmATFn.V. !iii<l Is', tbi' shaving; ns jis.sisliiiits tlioy roccivo tVoin it/, to 1')/, pL'i" month, (Iraymeii 8/. to 10/. per month, iiivnu'ii 10/. to 12/. |)t'r month, gardeners 11. to 10/. per month, jowcllei's 1/. jK'r iliiy, ehoppci's 8/. per month, liiirness- makers 8.v. to Ki.s. per day, shoemakei's lO.v. (\il. to 12.s'. i\(L per day, tinnei's Vis. (\d. to lO.s. per (hiy, u[)holsterers \\\s. ])er day, waiters 5/. to 10/. per month, lumbermen 10/. per month, laundresses receive 8.s'. 4^/. ])er doz. lor wash- ing and di*(,'ssing shirts, machinists Ifi.v. to 1/. per djiy. These figures give a specimen of the rates of "wages cur- I'ent in Vancouver Island. In hritish Columhia cnipenters get 1/. per day in the interioi" towns, and 12.v. (W/. in New Westminster. The wages of ordinaiy labourers vaiy from 12.s'. to 10,s', per d:iy ; bla(!ksmiths get from 1/. to 2/. per day hi the .sea.son., but expense of living is ])roportionately high ; axemen are paid from lO.s'. to l().v, i)er diiy Jit Lilloet, and 21. i)cr day at Cariboo. The demand for labour hitherto in Uritish Co- lumbia has been small, but as the cai)ital is introduced and enterprise set agoing iu the numerous departments of industiy, situations for men able and willing to work may be had to an unlimited extent. The prices of ordinary articles of food are moderate. J^cef sells at S)d. per lb., mutton at lOJ., veal lOJ., pork lOf/., vegetables 2J., Avlieat 2^/., barley 2d. to 2}^d., sugar (crushed) 8J., ham l.s'., ground collee 1,9. 6J. to 2.s\, tea 2.s\ to o.y., coal-oil 4.?. 2d. per gallon, apples ?>d. to 4(/. per lb., oranges 4s. 2d. per doz., venison hd. to (Sd. per lb., ducks (wild) from 2.9. to bs. per pair. Every kind of fish at an incredibly low figure. Boots and shoes can be had at an advance of from 25 to 35 per cent, upon English prices. Crockery fetches high prices. This article, with every- thing connected with bedding, ought to be taken or sent ruifiis. ;)0l )m '.)/. to , liivnu'ii 1' iiioiitb, liurnt'ss- ) V2s. Cul. .Tcrs l().v. UL'll 10/. lor wush- per (liiy. •u!j;cs cur- ay ill tlio tor. 'Vho. . per dtiy ; eason, but n arc paid cr day at Uitisli Co- luccd and tincnts of work may moderate. 10</., pork y., sugar o 2.V., tea UL per lb., lb., dm^ks fisli at an f from 25 '■ith every- m or sent l)y tli(! einiurant round Cape Horn. Fui'nilurc, wilh tlie exception of carpets, can be; bad cbea|)er at J^an Francisco or Victoi'ia, than it would l)e wortli alter frei^lit liad been paid upon it l)rouulit from F^n^iand. 'I'lie price of most descrijjtions of (by goods ni;iy l)est be estimated, for the most part, by adihiig ^lO pei- cent, advance upon cost. Clothes made in tlie colony are enor- mously ex])ensivc, but tailors' work is usually executed with great neatness. 13ricks cost from oT.v. to 4().v. ))er 1,000 (made in tlu; colony), lime [)s. pci' bhl. Jioiigh boards and scantling o/. })er 1,000 feet, shingles I/, per 1,000, ilooriiig (tongue and grooved) 5/. lO.v. Cn/. ])vv 1,000 feet, ])ickets 8/. per 1,000, laths IG.s'. per 1,000. Allsop's bottled ale, per 2 do/, (pts.) 10.S-. {)(/. to 13.V. ; colonial brewed, 1 do;^, 0^. ; .Mallei's j)ale brandy, lo.v. ])er gallon ; Old Tom, lO.v. per case, oi- 5.S. per gallon; whisky, IC.v. ])er case, or tys. ])er gallon; Jamaica rum, G.s'. to Ss. pei* gallon ; wine (Tort), O.v. ])er gallon ; claret, from 2/. to 10/. per doz. ; slieny, 1/. >)^'. to o/. ])er doz. House rent is likely to remain high in the colonies. A small wood house, consisting of thi'ee rooms and a kitchen, rents from 4/. to 5/. per month. The settler will see the desirableness of buying a lot in the town or suburbs, and erecting upon it his own dwelling as speedily uri [jossible. The rate of living increases as wc ascend the Fraser. Mr. Brown informs us that at present (18(»3) living costs at New Westminster o.y., at Lilloet 4.s'., in Cariboo 20,s'. a day; or if one boards at an hotel, at Xew Westminster 21. per week, at Lilloet 2/., in Cariboo G/. ; or for single me.als at an hotel one pays, at N(.!W Westminster 4.s'., at AVilliam's Lake G-s., at WilUam's Creek lO.y.* In Cariboo * lustily un British Culumbiu. 502 K.MKIllATION. ])nco.s arc mudi reduced since tliis was written. The letter of a correspondent in Uieh(ield, daled Auj^iist lU), 1S04, <^ives Hour at ^s. 7i/. ])er lb., bacon o.v., beef l.v. 8r/., sugar o.s'., tea 5.s'. to 7.^*., coll'ee 4.s'. to O.v. ' Clothing,' s'.iys the writei', ' can be had here for an advance of 25 to 50 percent, on Victoria ])rices, and nearly as low as the same could be had in Victoria two years ago.' These prices may still seem high, but when conii)ared with what they Ibrmei-ly were, and when it is considered that a distance of 500 miles intervenes between New Westminster and Cariboo, over which provisions have to be packed, thepro- ilts realised will be deemed reasonable. When the Bute In- let and IJentinck Arm routes shall have been fully opened, however, a further sweeping reduction will be the result. There arc four available routes to these colonies at pre- sent at the option of passengers from England. One I have already indicated in the hrst Chapter, viz., rid ISt. Thomas, W. I. The fares by it tt) Victoria arc 73/. On. (juid upwards, according to ])(^siti()n of cal)in) 1st cabin ; 53/. 15.N'., 2nd cabin; 30/. lox., 3rd cabin. Female ser- vants are charued 45/. 5.s'., and male servants 39/. 15.s'. Children mider 12 years of age, halt-price ; mider G years, quarter-price ; a single child to each family, free. Lug- i>au-e over 50 lbs. weiuht is charged on the Panama liail- way, at the rate of 5(/. per lb. to each passenger. The time occupied by this route is about 40 days. The dis- tance from Southampton to As])inwall is <!,500 miles, and from Panama to Victoria is 3,950 miles, making 8,450 miles. The ."^econd route is by Mew York, and thence to Aspin- wall. If the Cunard steamer is taken from Liverpool to New York, the first cabin fare will be 20/., and the second 17/. The Inman line is cheaper, and the excellent steam- l)ackets beloni>inL^ to Malcolmson Brothers, runninu" be- KOUTKS TO TlII^ COLOXIKS. oO:; en. The iigiist )■)(), 3t'' l.v. 8 J., Iiing/t^'.iys 25 to 50 tlie sam(3 L>se prices vliut they I distance lister tuul d, tlie pro- e Bute In- ly opened, the resnlt. ies tit pre- l. One I viz., via re 73/. O.v. 1st cabin ; eniale ser- ! 39/. 15.S'. er 6 years, ree. Lna- iiania liail- iger. The ^ Tlie dis- miles, and dng 8,450 3 to Aspin- Lverpool to the second lent steani- Luminu' be- tween London and New York, cliarge fares still Tower. The latter com})any has accommodation for lirst, sec(jnd, and third class ])asseiigei's. To lirst-class passengers, not pushed for time, the accommodation in the lirst cabin of these steamers will be found satisiiictory, considering the smallness of the fare. But for perfect arrangement and s[)eed the Cuiiard steamers carry the palm. Tlie Baciiic Mail Steamship Company announced, in October 1804, tlu^ following I'ates of passage from New York to San Fran- cisco : Ladies' saloon, outside, ,J?2G4 (52/. lO-v.); inside cabin, ^238 (47/. 12.S'.); second cabin ,^184 25c. (30/. lO.y.); steerage, ^130 50c. (20/. 2.v.). From San Francisco a steamer sails for Victoria in a day or two after the arrival of the one from Fanaina ; the charge for passage being )i?45 (9/.) in the cabin, and S-i) (4/.) in the steerage. The opposition line of steamers, owned by Mi'. Eoberts, of San Francisco, used to run between New York and that city once a month, at fares much below those specified above. But as the arrangement of this line is not lixed, I am unable to do more than suiiujest to the emiurrant the ])r()priety of making enquiry for him If on tlie subject. The ])assage from Liveipool via New York to Victoi'ia consumes about 43 days. The third route is (jverland : by railway from New York to St. Louis (Missouri), and thence l)y the same mode of conveyance to Atchison. At the latter place a stage-line, running daily, takes passengers across to I'lacer- ville in California, giving them an opportunity of seeing the notorious Mormon State of Utah. There is a railway from the terminus of the stage in California to Sacramento City, and a steamer down the Sacramento Itiver to San Francisco. For the information of any who may have a penchani for perilous situations, and may not have pre- 504 EMIGRATION. vioiisly enjoyed the felicity of being jolted to death in over- land conveyances, it may be mentioned tliat tlie distance travelled by coach on this route is over 2,000 miles ; the sto|)ping-places are thirteen miles apart ; and meals are furnislied at 2s. to 4.s'. each. The necessaries of life supplied on the road are said to be of an inferior descrip- tion. If you choose summer for the trip, you may lay your account with being roasted ; if winter, of being iVozen. Should passengers desire to lie over at any point on the way, tliey run the risk of being compelled to wait a nuich longer time than they had anticipated before finding a vacancy in succeeding stages. In the present disquieted condition of the Sioux and Pawnee tribes, Avhose hunting-ground is traversed by the stage, the better part of valour, I think, consists in avoid- ing; tlie dann;c'rs of the track. The fare from New York to Atchison is $41 (8/. 4.s'.) ; thence to Placerville, .^200 (40/.) ; thence to San Francisco, ^10 (2/.)— in all, ^251 (50/. 4.9.), icithout cost of meals and eMra lu<j(jage. The time occupied in the journey, from ocean to ocean, is twenty-four days. The fourth route, and the only one practicable for poor families, till a waa<]ron-road can be constructed from lied liiver to Ihitish Cohnnbia, across British territory, is that via Cape Horn. This involves a voyage of between four and five months — not a much longer period, however, tlian is spent in going to New Zealand. As there is no room for competition between shipping firms in trade witli these distant and pai'tially-developed colonies, the fare is higlier than it w^ould otherwise be. The first cabin is GO/, the intermediate, 40/., and tlie steerage 30/. Cliildren under fourteen are charged half-price. The vessels that are acknowledged to combine, in the highest degree, comfort, safety, and expedition are those CHOICE OF A VESSEL. 505 :li in ovcr- e distance iiiles ; the metils nvii 3S of life )r descrip- I may lay of bein«»' CD any point jd to Avait ,ed before Sioux and icd by the s in avoid- Kcw York /ille, ^200 all. ;^251 ocean, Tlie is e for poor from lied ay, is that ;ween four , however, lere is no trade Av it] I he tare is ibin is GO/. Cliildren ne, in the are those belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company. One sails from London in spring and another in autumn, making the pas- sage in about four months. Messrs. Tliompson, Anderson, and Company also de- s[)atch vessels at intervals. I Avould urge, upon individuals and families resolved to proceed by the Horn route, the importance of using strict caution and making careful enquiry in selecting a ship, though her owners should possess high conunercial repu- tation, and her qualities be grandly i)araded in advertise- ments. If the vessel be old, there is danger ; if her state- rooms be dingy, the cfTect upon the spirits of crew and passengers will be obvious. Let personal inspection be made also of the stores, as far as possible. The clia- racter and bearing of the captain should be well ascer- tained ; (jr a good ship may be rendered utterly intolerable under the direction of a bad commander. The higher attainments required in shipmasters nowa- days tend to elevate their profession, and to attract to it men superior, as a class, to navigators of the de[)arting generation. There are many captains in the mercantile navy of England, whose afl'ability and pohteness go i'ar to enliven the monotony of the longest voyage. Some, however, are still ailoat, whose vidgarity and petty tyi-anny at sea neutralise completely the happiest eflects of fair weather and the best fare. If pains be not taken to have these matters adjusted to your satisfaction before embark- ing, the penalty of neglect may have to be paid in tlie endurance of protracted misery. A vessel should be cliosen that has a height of not less than six or seven feet between decks, and C(im[)artnients roomy. If the condition of your exchequer necessitates that you should go in the steerage, get near the centre of the 506 E.M Kill ATI ox. vessel, wliere motion is least felt. Procure, if you can, a berth extending len<jtliwm in the ship, else the inconveni- ence of having your feet raised occasionally higher than your head will have to be sustained. If a wife and family be in the ]iarty, it should be seen that not only the berths are sudiciently wide, but that ample space is reserved for keeping private stores, and such other comforts as forethought may deem to be nced- fid for the voyage. Steerage passengers, who may arrange wdth the owners to furnish their own provisions, sliould be very particular as to where they buy. Instances could be related of lieartless imposition practised by dealers in ship's-stores upon unsuspecting emigrants. The most acrreeable and economical method of cmi2;ra- ting is for a company, having business, tastes, religious denomination, or some otlier common tie, to unite in preparation for the voyage, and place themselves under voluntary discipline in relation to each other. Information in regard to suitable outfits for the voyage may be obtained by consulting friends who have gone through the experience of a four or five months' passage, or from any resj^ectable outiitter in Liverpool or London. The outlit of a miner having come to the country, and about to 2)roceed to Victoria for the mines of British Columbia or Vancouver Island, usually consists of the followinii; articles : — 2 Avo(,)llen shirts, 4 pairs of worsted socks, a pair of leather top-boots, a pair of Indian-rubber mining-boots, a strong pair of trousers, an Indian-rubber coat, 2 pairs ol' blankets, a small tent. Ko British colonies encounter such ai^antic hindrances to progress and settlement as tliose to which the attention of the reader is directed. They contain every element 3'ou can, Ji incoiivoni- liglicr than Id be seen e, but tliat stores, and to be need- tlie owners ' particular related ot" liip's-stores of emi^ra- IS, religious o unite in Ives under the voyage have gone is' passage, or London. )untry, and of BiitUli ists of the , a pair of ng-boots, ji , '2 pan's of hindrances le attention ry element POSTAL COMM r N K JAT I ( )X. 507 adapted to contribute to the happint'ss and wealth of every class of emigrants. But beini' situated on the extreme western verge of British North America, they are the most remote and inconvenient of approach of all our dependencies. It takes what many an industiious artisan would esteem a fortune to transfer a large i'ainily to them from England, by the Panama route. Several months and no inconsiderable amount of money is ex- pended in adopting the cheapest and yet most tedious route, via Cape Horn. So pressing are the internal claims of these colonies, the necessity of making roads, and cariying forward other public improvements, tluit no share of the local revenue can be spared, at present, for the purpose of granting as',sisti'd OM free passjiges to intending settlers. No s})ecial orii'anisation exists in Great Britain, as has been established by other colonies in tlie parent country, for the encou- ragement of emi<>;ration to the North Bacific : and no plans have been laid for takint>' charue of innniarants on their arrival and until they fnid a habitation, except that Government agents are appointed in the agricultiu'c dis- tricts to show where inia[)propriated lands are to be found. The proximity of Oregon and California, as has been pre- viously intimated in this volume, phice us under grave dis- advantage, these States being agriculturally superior to the colonies, and possessing mineral resoin'ces equally rich, but more easy of access and more fully developed. We are even denied that ii'reat essential of connnercial [)rosperity as ]]ritish dependencies — d'lvect poMul conmni- nicat'wn icith KiKjland. Our letters are conveyed from New York to Aspinwall, and from I'anama to Victoria, in foreign bottoms. The result is, that many of our news- papers are lost, and our letter-mails are ol"ten detained, 50S EM IG RATI ox. throuj^li tlie negligence of those whose interest it is not to promote our convenience. Not only are there no other British colonies in the predicament of which we complain, but foreign republics on the south-west const of America enjoy the })rivilege of having their mails carrietl from Europe all the way in British steamers. No colonial possessions ever founded by Great Britain promise to be of greater political or commercial value to England than these ; yet, judging by the short-sighted policy which threatens to prevail henceforth in the councils Of the nation in regard to the indiscriminate requirement tliat new colonies, irrespective of every modifying circum- stance, should be self-supporting from the first there are none that have less fostering assistance to hope for from the Imperial Government. The prestige derived by Great Britain from her colonial territory has invested her with an overpowering splendour in the eyes of jealous European neighbours. This has done more to thrill those rival empires with salutary awe and evoke from tlieni respectful behaviour, than her supremacy in commercial or manufoctming industry could have accompUshed. It is the possession of her colonies which enables her to give expression to that proud sentiment concerning * the Hag upon which the sun never sets.' Again, statistics, which always secure the consideration of minds too practical to be influenced by sentiments afiecthig national glor}^, clearly demonstrate tliat inore than one half the enports from the United Kingdom go to the colonies. The total declared value of English and Irish produce exported to all foreign countries in 1859 was 84,207,533/.* Ditto, ditto, ditto, to all liritish colonies, 40,143,990/. With what sort of treatment is tliis greatness rellected, * For detail;?, see Note. POLICY OF THE HOME noVKRXMKXT. 509 , it is not e no other complain, if America riecl from lat Britain ill value to Drt-sighted le councils quircment ig circum- tliere are Q for from er colonial \ splendour s Inis (lone J awe and supremacy mid have lies which sentiment sets.' isideration sentiments tliat uiore doni (JO to h produce 207,533/.* 143,990/. rellected. and profit conferred on the parent country by her depen- dencies, requited H We are told that the colonies are no more now to Great Britain than are foreign countries except nominally, and tliat goods imported by them from England arc taxed as from other parts. But the first part of tliis statement is contradicted by facts ; and as to the customs duties imposed by most of the colonies, tlieir wisdom in this respect should be commended. From du- ties on im])orts a rcvemie can be raised, interfering less, in most instances, with the industrial interests of the country than any other method of taxation would be likely to do. Still, tliough British wares are taxed, they are imported. It is to be regretted that the Secretary of State for the Colonies, under whose administration the present deptMi- dencies were founded, in a despatch to the late Governor indorses this ungenerous policy : — The lavish pecuniary expenditure of the mother-country, in founding new colonies, has been generally found to discourage economy . . . to interfere with the healthy action by which a new community provides, step by step, for its own requirements. It is on the character of the inhabitants that we must rest our hopes for the land we redeem from the wilderness. No exception can reasonably be taken to the theory submitted in these remarks, })rovided it be applied with discrimination. Where extravagant habits are induced in young dependencies by unscrupidous reliance being placed upon the aid of England, that abuse of maternal kindness may soon be detected and the remedy a[)plied. But wlien colonies arise so distant from the Imperial centre, as these are ; Avhen their settlement is retarded for want of facilities of transit from Great Britain; when tlieir resources, which would augment immensely her wealth, are scaled 510 KMIORATIOX. also from tliis cause ; ^v1^ell a route from Euijland tliroufjli them to her ports iu Australia and China could be made that would surpass all existing or possible routes iu s[)eed, do not political necessity, mercantile sagacity, and common sense combine to indicate that the Home Government should relent, and modify the a})plication of the rule, in this case, which they have laid down so rigidly ? Without much ex})ense, they can at least remove any obstacles which the tenacious monopoly of tlie Hudson's iiay Company may interpose to the opening up of an emigrant route from lied Itiver to British Colinnbia. Those competent to judge are confident that the returns certain to accrue to Canada and the parent country from such an undertaking would soon more than compensate; the outlay. ]Uit initil mails could be desj)atched ovei'land through British territory, we surely have claims upon tlic; Im])erial authorities to aid us in subsidising a British steamer from Panama, connecting Avitli the intercolonial steamer which plies between St. Thomas, W. I., and As])inwall. Already there is nearly enough trade between diflerent parts of the north-west coast of America and England to make a steamer answer independent of Government subsidy. She could touch at as many ])orts in Central America and Mexico as might be thought advisable. The navigation laws of the United States would admit of hei- dischargino; and loading at San Francisco. She woidd secure the chief part of the traffic between that port and Victoria, up and down. At the office of the Pacific Mail Steamship Coniff.ny, in San Francisco, I was informed that nearly 200 tons of freight a month from England to the northern coast of the Pacific arrived by their vessels. If the opposition steamers convey as large an amount, here is an important 1 througli . be nuidu i in speed, L common fvermiient tlie rule, move any Hudson's up of lUl Columbia, be retiu'us ntiy from nupeusatc! I ovei'land ; upon the a British tercolouial \ I., and II difierent England :»vernment in Central kble. The nit of her he would t port and Comp^.ny, 200 tons lern coast opposition important COXinAST BETWKKX THE STATES AND EXOLAND. 511 item for an English steamer to look to at the outset. From tlie table showing the quantity and destination of treasure shipped from San Francisco to all parts in 1803, it appe.'us that out of ;S^4G,071,920, the gross sum, ^28,407,210 went to England. A share in carrying tliis specie also might safely be calculated upon. The tonnage arriving in San Francisco from tliese colonies in 1803 amounted to 40,005 tons, and the amount sent thither from S;in Francisco in the same year Avas 78,335 tons. A consider- able portion of this was conveyed })er steamei", many of the consiifiicrs bciiiu; EiiLi'hsh firms. Durinu' the sanu; period ,5'2,!t35,172 in treasnre was shii)])ed by banking houses fn)ni Victtu'ia to California, nearly all of which went by steamer. The contrast between the United States and England in caring for the growth of new territories is decidedly unfavoural)le to the latter. England, in defining land to be erected into a colony and passing an Act of Parliament to tliat effect, leaves to the settlers, however few and impo- tent they may be, the task of establishing leading com- munications, executing surveys, and completing postal arrangements. If the jiopulation be unequal to these under- takings, they nuist be postponed till colonial finances be- come capable of sustaining them. The Federal Govern- ment, on the other hand, assumes the responsibility of u;iving effect to all works of maixnitude necessary to brinu- an infant settlement to maturity, and indemnifies itself i'or the outlay hicurred, by mortgaging the lands, and the revenues derivable from customs and other territorial sources. In this matter Yankee liberality is oidy equalled by Yankee shrewdness. It invariably turns out that works urgent and useful, thus undertaken, are s})eedi]y made to defray the cost of their construction. 1'lie Americans have learned that whatever contributes to augment national 512 KMronATION". wo.'iltli 1)V tlevel( Ipll irr )f HOW tcriitory is iiDt tlio resource inconsistent with public economy. Even lunatic asylums and libraries are not forgotten in the early attentions bestowed mxm an embryo state by the Federal power. A few years ago tiie mail service to California, by several routes, was subsidised. The stage inlying semi-weekly, during the travelling season, from St. Louis and ]\[empliis ri(7 El Paso to San Erancisco, received /?00(),0l)() ])er annum. The mail service from San Antonio to San Diego received ii!J'200,000 per annum. The stage fi'om Kansas to Stockton viA Santa Fe, a monthly service, received ,$'80,000. The stage between San Jose[)h and riacerville via Salt Lake city — at that time running once a week — was subsidised to the extent of ,^o20,0()() per annum. Besides these annual sums granted to overland routes, 1^738,250 was paid annually to contractors for car- rying mails from New York and Xew Orleans, via Panama, to San Francisco; ,5^250,000 perannum for mail communica- tion between New Orleims and San Francisco vid Tehuan- tepec; and for local mail service /S^508,Gi)7 per annum. This ,$'550,000 was spent, and a loss of ,$'377,000 incurred, in affording postal facilities to the states on the Pacific, and in promoting the settlement of the country intervening between the Atlantic and the Pacific* Some exertion lias been made by the British Govern- ment, during the past forty years, in aiding the passage of needy subjects abroad ; but it has generally been confined to periods of famine or industrial distress, and as much care has not in all cases been taken, as concern for national advantage should have prompted, to give our colonies the benefit of this tide of emigration. In the year 1847, and subsequently, the bulk of emigrants from Ireland were sent to the United States. It is probable * Pombortiin. TFIi: lUISII IN AMi:iMCA. :)l.". toiy is not ic asylums UttLMltioilS power, by several Tii-weekly, I Meini)his 10,000 per lio to Still stage iVom ly service, losepli and lining once 20,000 per to overland ors for car- nd Panama, fOmmunica- iil Tehuan- nnum. This ncurred, in Pacific, and intervening i[\ Govern- passage of en confined nd as much concern for ,o give our m. In the rrants from is probable that those objocts t)f Ih'itisli bounty would be the last to find fault with their destiny in this respect. I'ut did England act wisely for iier present interest and ultimate ])eacc in not using more effort to direct the stream ^A' Irish poj)ulati()n to Ihitish territory!^ '\\u' poverty-sti'ickeii nuillituih', shij)jK'd by the liberality i)f Ijighuid to u/orcli/it countiy, have foi- the most part risen in the social scale and nudtiplied ; they contimie to send remittances for bringing over poor relations. Tliey natui'ally ascribe their improved condition to the freer institutions of America, and unite in a howl of execration, waxing louder and more thi'eatening every day, against the [)arent country, as the author of all the want, wretchedness, and ignorance they have left behind. Now, had we ado[)ted systematic measures to induce the Iiisli that have gone, to emiurate to our C(jlonies, they would as really have come into tin; possession of ])lenty there, and, instead of the curses which they persist in fulminating against u^, fi-om the cities and prairies of the great re|)ublic, they would have retui'ned us blessing and uratitude as their benefactors, and have regarded their increasing comforts Jis due to British generosity. But what is the result of our remissness in this matter? Out of 5,137,837 — the tottd number of emigrants from this country from 1 81 .5 to 1 SGI — only 2,030,807 went to Jh-itish colonies, while 3,007,070 went to the United t^tates ; and personal observation in America justifies me in asserting that tlie bulk of those millions who have ceased to be of us are the avowed enemies of Great Britain. ' The Fenian Ih'otherhood,' an Irish organisation, is said to number already 500,000. Their agents are incessantly agitating in all parts of the United States. Tlieir object is to foment hatred {mainst ICnuiand, and larire sums are contributt'd by them to be in readiness for the exiii'encies of war. 514 EMKiRATIO.V. wlioiKivor tlic ]n'0])iti<)iis liour arrives for driifriiin^' tin' United States into collision with Kn;iliin(l. I'art of tlieii ])rn^n{innne beinfi; in take Ireland, is it beyond the liniiis of possibility that this liostile race, aniinati'd by bitterness proportionate to tlic closeness of their former relation to us, and so ra|)i(lly nudtiplyinii" on the othei' side of the Atlantic;, may, ere many centuries ela])se, descend, liUe the (loths and Vandals of antiquity, and lay Hi'itain in ruins? * The subject of emigration ouyht to be reuiu'ded by the Government and philanthropists as the most important national qui'stion that can euira^e public; attention, for there is none more vitally connected with the ameliora- tion of ])overty imd the reduction of crime. It is tlu' glory of England that so many excellent plans liave been devised for relieving the wretched and jvclaiming tin; vicious. Kagged-scliools and churches, Dorcas, J5ible, tract, and mission societies, private charities, and poor-law unions, are benevolent agencies above all praise. ]>ut to render them thoroughly edicient, it does seem tliat some sup})lemented arrangement is wanted to separate the classes we seek to benefit from the depressing associations by which tliey are surrounded, and give them a fresh start in life. The squalor of the back streets and alleys, which many inhabit in London and ju'ovincial towns, must exert an enervating inilucnce upon their uiinds suflicient to frustrate the most powerful a])peals of the missionary and the kindest eflbrts of the charitable. There is nothing in the cheerless dwellings they occupy," or the filthy lanes in which they are crowded together, to excite high aspira- * The above was in print licforo the sad news of the assassination of I'resident I^incohi reached Eiiijland. I would fain hope that tlio hearty and universal sympathy expressed hv this country for our neif^hbours, on tho occurrence of that outrage, may tend to buiouth down entirely tlireuteued dilVerfUces. TIIK IMrORTANCK 01' Till: Sl'IMIXT. r)ir> ro'lMJ' tlu' t of tlu'ii lUiitL'd by 'ir foniuT tlie otluT CS (.'lill)S<', y, ami hiy led by the important t'ntioii, Tor iUiuTioni- It is llu' luive ])oe'ii limin.u' tlu' ciis, lVil)lc, (1 poor-law 0. 1)11 1 to that somo )anite the issociatioiis m a fresh aiul alloys, ,owns, must s suflk'ieiit iiiissioiiary is nothing filthy lanes ligh aspira- issasf'ination of the hearty ami hboui's, on the •elv tlivcatoueil tioiis or aid tlicin in carrviiij' <>nt the jLjood rc^olulions to which tlicy may be iK'rsuadcd. In somt! instances, children in these iic iglilxmrhoods may be foninl I'ising above the degraded [)ositinn in wliich tlu-y wei'e ixirn, and becoming active and res[)eetable members of society. Ihit tlie great mass go on receiving eleemosynary hel|) and instruction, without ever acquiring sober and industrious liabits. When want and care j)ress heavily u|)on tluni, what wonder if they should I'esort to diink as the cheai)e>t and easiest mitigation of their distress? We are told that four-fifths of ci'ime in Gbv.'it ] Britain is traceable to drunkenness as its cause. Hut what is the; root of that vice in the ])oor!'' Usually, miseiy of >onie sort. If so, it is not enough to ])reach total abstinence to such unfortunate civatures. The bit lei- can onlv b(! efTectually expelled by the introduction of the sweet. Im- prove their material condition ; place them in siliuitions Avherethey will not only be .saved from the risk of starva- tion, but enabled to sii|)j)ly them.selves Avith home-com- forts by the labour of their hands. Opportunities for doing this are necessarily limited in an old and densely-])oi)iilated country, wheii' labour of all kinds is a drug, rhiinly, then, it is the duty of all who desire the prosperity of their less favoured fellow-subji'cls to encourage their emigration to parts of the emjjire aflbrding full remunerative employment for those who twa wilhng to work. Let benevolent per.^ons be content with merely doling out regular assistance to needy lamilies, without every exertion being made to induce them to help tlienLselves, and without their being removed where tlu'V can live above dependence upon others, and charity so ad- ministered but tends to peipetuate idleness and ])o^■erty. The splendid workhouses erected in iJirmingham and other large towns throughout the kingdom may ap[)ear to I, I. 51G EMIGRATION, iiulioatc a laudable care for the poor. But it is questionable Aviiether, as often conducted, tliey may not be offering a premium on laziness. Is not the bulk of our criminal population derived from the abodes of ])overty and vice ? We may inflict the severest [)enal discipline upon this class, and send the yoimger portions of it to reformatories. liut if, after suffering the ai)})ointed term of imprisonment, they are allowed to return to their accustomed haunts and per- nicious companionships, what is there to prevent them from again becoming infected P It were surely more service- able to drain the fountain than to stem the current. Xot that I would advocate, in opposition to the approval of colonists, the transportation of criminals to our colonies. Still the experiment might be tried of encouraging yoKnij liberated criminals to emigi-ate at the public expense, and of })roviding special employment for them in some of our distant possessions, under the direction of Government agents. Coercion, in this instance, I am aware would be out of the question. But while free passages should be offered to the very poor and the reformed criminal classes Avith whom these I'emarks are concerned, emigration lecturers should be provided by the Imperial Government, for tlie specific p^a'pose of instructing them in the advantaijres of c(jlonisation. If much of the time and means devoted by the philanthropic to the support of many m indigence and sometimes in sloth were applied in the manner just described, the investment, which in the I'ormer case I cannot but designate as misplaced benevo- lence, woidd in the latter become eminently reproductive, and do more to thin the ranks of pauperism, vice, and crime, than most of ihe appliances at present in operation put together. In the report of the Emigration Conunissionei's for stionablc ifTering a ivccl from iiflict the send the if, after they are and per- liem from e service- jut. Not approval r colonies, ing youih/ expense, n some of iveriniient Avould be should be uil classes ■miuTation vernment, n in the time and support of applied in lich in the d benovo- >roductive, vice, and operation qoners for t:MIGRATIO\. 1803, it is stated tliat tlie total mnnber who emigrated in that year wws 228,758. 14,000 loft England for Xe^v Zealand, 17,000 for Canada, 20,000 for Victoria (Australia), and over 10,000 for (Queensland. Only 118 are entered for ]3ritish Columl)ia. This small figure lor a settlement Avhich so nnicli requires pojudation is an irresistible argu- ment for the adoption of active steps to encouraf»-e, stimulate, and direct the course of those who may be dis- posed to seek a home in the colonies of the Pacilic. This report, which abounds with information respecting other colonies, is astonishingly meagi-e in reference to these important possessions. The report is dated April 18G4, and the latest information it conununicates from British Columbia is dated September 180 3, and that is of the most trilling character. 518 COLOXIAL STATISTICS. W H O X < o z ^ 6 ■^^^ (1) ^ i Z y. o V 5- .- i Jd c .& tt P5-- be •IMil^ilfiml stunioa o.s; e-. « It o C-. — ^ !• Tl r ,^' £ S' ;■= :■? */ 2^, X ? 5 t^ r- " "^1 c ;i '" — - " c. fcj • I- ' X T* * O ■i — o 71 -T 't O H o W £•5 3 o -"_ a t. •/> H3 ^ '^ '^ r^ C 17 ^ 17 71 o £ -7' r; /•■ - ^' c ■'-' -i' -y -7" H L," T - ~ — 'I i- ^- ~ X' 71 I—' C5, 71 71 -X rt 71 — C «S !■• — '-t ** L: '!i TT " "J ~ ^ '^ ?- " ■ -^' '2* t* ^' — ' ^' o ■/ }r' I;' j£ ^:-: ^ t:' I-' -' — ' / /.' T M 1' -' -r rl' IT tj. -f -jt — -r :? •" I" = >i ' '■ \1 Ti - '; '- ^ '^- r 71 'c l* T? Ir '' " i 'J y^ z' '- '- IT X I- ^ 71 :t ft i~ — j: i" « c T »-t St — ^ — v: — X a 17 T-. >7 (- 1- — -^ r; I- 5 C — — 71 — 'C — 17 — t: ti if •;' yi ^ 2 x — ■ j' -f 71 ■;;; fi U — i ■/. 1- i '■ ^ Q ? I- X "7 1/7 — t :7 t: >7 c: 71 C r 7t C • 71 X -* 71 — « C — r^ -^ ' :7 71 «5 " -T 'f ?1 X — C — ' T 71 T. X, '""i t? or. — II ?n- ~r t7 — •^ S 15 .S .^ o o l^ £ Ti C' ;/) 3 1^ c5 "^ cT -t z c s a -M '■:i ■/.' CS «M r'-, a f-H -it rt C3 (/J ^ r-« o 9. •c -1-3 Q H 3 O S3 is ■♦- o S 1 f^ w r-f ,-. 00 o .= 2 a '^3 ' w -♦-» ffl ^ a -4-< ir' o ^ o w ;^ p. >: ■Jl C 1^ • f-i a o o l-j c o s u ^£ -4-' ^ q. >-l 4-t C' O o A s - rt 1— ' cl-1 r/J C5 2 F-- o CD rt ;:: f5 -4.J r- <!l CS r' , rt ^ O ^ =J nd -*-! >^ c 1—1 Cm CS Z t— 1 -:5 ci c. ^ c ^ '7 ^ =rf (^ -3 '^ o "3 1) 1*^ c 'c^ rt 'u -A o ++ 4) T— ( o -« •n > o ■1. c:! *-i ^ 4-» a y, W c I } 'J t APPENDIX. S ^• OS a o s, p "5) ■§ 'a t-) « -g ".E «rt Tjie following extracts from a pamphlet published hy Messrs. ►S. W. Silver & Co. contain valuable practical directions to emigrants : Provisums. — Provisions, more especially as regards the third- class, are issued according to the Government dietary scale. Infants under twelve months go free. Children imder twelve years pay half price, and are entitled to lialf rations otdy. The following are the rations ordinarily issued in first-class ships; the ([uautities quoted represent the weekly allowance for each adult :— Artielts Second Ciiliin InteniKiliiitc 1 11). 1 lb. Prosorved meals niid soups . . : 2 lb. l?eef Pork . 15read . Flour 1'" '1 „ 1 „ •'' ,) 1:1,, ^ )» Oatiuoul . Pice Peas Pro.>^erv((l potatoes 1 „ i 1 „ I 1 „ n „ •J V 8 net , <*) oz. Ci oz. (5 (pz. CliiMso . ; ^ V — — Ikitter , 1^^ „ C, oz. 4 oz. Tea Coffee . 4 ;; •> .) Sujrar 1 11). 1 lb. 1 lb. I.oaf siifiar (J oz. — Ikai.-ins . . J, 11). ill). :^lb. J'ickles or vinegar r-iu 1" gill 1 "gill j ]\Iii,stard . ; |oz. h oz. .L oz. 1 Pepper . Salt Lime juiee 1 i „ 1 - V i •1 ),' 2*" ■^ >) Water . 21 quarts 21 quarts 21 quarts 520 ArrKNDix. In tliis list no mention is made of first-chi.ss passen<,'('rs, who (line iit the captain's table, where they faro as well, in all good ships at least, as in the best English hotels. Sr.o of S/iips — Eiiiif/raflon Ojjkrrs. — The size of ships is important f>n a lonj; vovaffe. Vessels under oOO tons do not afford sufficient accommodation and safety to eniitfrants. In siiips above ;>()() tons the size is less niaterial, so that the vessels are f^ood, comfortable, and dieted on a liberal scale. The Govermnent has appointed officers, wliose di it}' it is to look after the interests of emigrants and other passengers on long sea- voyages. They see that emigrant vessels are sufficiently pro- visioned with good and wholesome stores. Vessels about to carry emigrants are detained in har])our until the regidatioiis on this head are complied with. The folhjwing is a summary of the minimum scale which must be served out to third-class passengers, stating the weekly rations to be provided for each adult : — Govcrnineid llalions. — Beef, 20 oz.; pork, 10 oz,; preserved meats, lO oz.; suet, 8 oz.; butter, 4 oz.; biscuit, 4 oz. ; flour, 56 oz. ; oatme:d, K) oz. ; peas, ^ lb. ; rice, S oz. ; j)rescr\-ed potatoes, 8 oz. ; carrots, onions, or celery, four-liftlis of an oz. ; cabl)age, 1 oz. ; raisins, (!oz.; tea, 1 oz. ; roasted coffee, 2 oz. ; sugar, 12 oz.; bread, 8 oz. ; water, 21 (piarts ; mixed pickles, 1 gill ; mustard, ^ oz, ; lime juice, 6 oz. ; salt, 2 oz. ; pepper, ^ oz. Inspi'clloii. — Hesides nscertainiug the (puuitity and inspecting the ([uality of victuals, the C'jvernnu'Ut officers have to see that all the other j)rovisions of the ' PasscMigers' Act ' are carried out — viz., that the ship carry the projjer crew, steward, cooks, and doctor, and that she be provided with boats in proportion to the nund)er of her passengers. In one word, stringent regula- tions have l)een made for the comfort and saftty of emigrants. Still a great d(!al depends upon a liberal interpretation of the law on the part of the shipowners. Emigrants should take their passages in shi{)s whose owners have the reputation of doing as they wish to be done by. lusarmur. — Independent of the Government inspection, the quality and sea-worthiness of a ship is ascertained and attested imder the direction of the committee at Lloyd's, and also by the TIEQUIIIE.AIHXTS FOll TlIK VOVAGK. 'rli llglTS, will) n nil good »f ships is lis do not rants. In the vessels ;ale. Tlu! ) look after long sea- iently i)ro- ; about to ulations ou iinnnary of third-class id for each ; preserved our, 50 oz. ; atocs, 8 oz. ; )nge, 1 oz. ; :ar, 12 oz. ; ; mustard, inspecting to see that carried out cooks, and oportion to ent regula- ciiiigrants. itioii of the hould take putation of pection, the nd attested also hy the l''reneh I.lovd's, or /?/'/'m{/ Vciufas. The followiii'^ are thede- scrii)tions of vessels to select : — • First-class ships marked in IJoyd's list and advertised A 1 ; second-class ships marked A'*. l''irst-class ships marked in the Burcati Veritds, and advertised Veriho^, .T.'ird. Second-elass ships, tolerably good, marked an<l advertised Veritas, a/dth, or 3/4tli, or 2 ;}rds. Lldb'llfij of SItipoirnei'S. — The * Passengers' Act ' provides that, in the event of a vessel putting back, the owners or char- terers are hound to support the passengers until the ship is ready to receive them. If a ship does not sail to its time, the passengers are entitled to an allowance for expenses. lieqnlremeats for the Voij^uje: Cloth! nr/. — Reiiuirements for the voyage, and the first year after landing, should be attended to before starting. ^Nlany goods sold in London are also sold in Victoria, Sic. ; l)ut prices vary according to the sup[»lies sent out from home, while emigrants newly landed have enough on their hands without looking out for cheap markets where to provide the necessaries they require. A frequent change of underclothing is indispensable to health and comfort during a h)ng sea-voyage, and emigrants, previous to sailing, have the best opportunity of making their purchases. For the voyage roiuid Cape Horn, summer clothes are wanted, as well as warm clotliing, as the course of the ship lies through hot and cold latitudes. A man should be provided with two warm suits, with a cap to match, a couple of suits of light clothing, with at least a dozen cotton shirts, and three or four flannel shirts. A good stock of shirts, socks, and handkerchiefs, when practi- cable, should be laid in, as very little washing can be done' diirin!>: the vovaije. The supplv of underclothiuu; sliould lie in *< cj ill/ O enough for the whole voyage, if need be, witlKjut washing. Women sliould have a warm shawl and cloak, and two dresses, all good, serviceable, and not showy ; they should have an ample supply of chemises and other underclothing. lioth men and women should be particular in getting stout, comfortable boots and shoes. Waterprocjf suits and flannel shirts will be found useful. Jicddinf/ and Mc^s Utun.sil.^. — Besides clothing, emigrants shoukl provide for their comfort and cleanliness by taking AI'l'KNUIX. witli tliein thv followinn^ articles: — For r'ach married couple, 1 large bed, 1 pair of l)lankets, 2 pairs of sheets, 1 lart^e coverlet, 2 large bags, 2 plates, 2 large mugs, 2 knives, forks, and spoons, 1 hook-pot, 1 water-can, 1 wasli-bowl, 12 towels, 1 tea-pot, 1 sugar-bowl, 2 cups and saucers, 2 bars of marine soap, 1 comb, and hairbrush, 2 shoebrushes, 2 pots of black- ing, a cabin utensil, 1 strong chest with lock. For each child should be provided: — 1 plate, 1 small nuig, 1 knife, fork, and spoon, with, of course, bedding, SiC, in propor- ti">n to size and luunber. Tlu; cost of an outfit for a single man or woman is about 61. ; for a married couple about 10/. The cost of an outfit for children variits with their size. Gene- rally speaking, three children under seven, or two between that agi' and f(jurteen, nuiy be clothed for about 7/. B<if/;/((f/e directions. — Emigrants should divide their property into two portions : that wliich is constantly wanted during the voyage, and that which is not always wantc.'d. The last-nanu'd porti(ju should be packed in a strong chest, marked with the name and destination of the owner. It will be safely stowed away in the lower part of the ship, and occasionally— perhaps twice a month — brought uj), to give an opportunity of putting in articles or taking them out. What is wanted for daily use should be packed in a box ; one capable of holding clotlies enough for tw^o weeks' wear. The size allowed for this box is 2 feet 6 inches lo7ig, 1 foot (1 inches broad, and 1 foot 3 inches deep. The owner's name should be painted on it in large letters. fjVf/(/<tf/e, — The usual allowance of luggage for second and third class passengers is 20 cubic feet, or 4 feet long, 2 feet (i inches wide, and 2 feet deep for eacli person. A series of pockets on a piece of canvas, to nail in.'^ide a cabin or berth, will be found convenient. Sea-Stoi'cs. — tSugar, tea, t"bacco, and other small luxuries kept in stock on board ship, may be purchased during the voyage. Biscuits, preserves, hams, and in the case of families with children, arrowroot, sago, tapioca, ground rice, a.id sugar for puddings, will be found most serviceable on the v\-3'age. Books. — The compidsoiy idleness of passengers i,: perhaps among the greatest hardsiiips of a long sea-vo} age. lioeks are MONEY — INSUKAxNX'E — Tl.MK OF yAlMNO. r)2;i icd t'Oiipli', ts, 1 lai\t,'G ives, forks, 12 towels, j of marine ;s of l)lack- For each g, 1 knife, in propor- ■or a single about 10/. ize. Gene- etweeu that L'ir property (luring tlie last-named ed with the ifely stowed ly — perliaps " of putting .r daily use ing clothes this box is oot 3 inches it in large second and m<X, 2 feet <) A series of in or berth, all hixiu'ies during the i of t'-imilies ?, aid sugar v>-yage. ; 1.-: perhaps lioeks are M great resource, and a few really good works should be laid in among other stores. It is scarcely necessary to say tliat the J>ible — the Word of Him who holds the waters in Mis hand — should be the companion of every emigrant. In idl well-regu- lated ships divine service is on Sunday mornings performed by the captain. Certificates. — Certificates of good conduct are invaluable in the Colonies; the obtaining of them from their employers, or the magistrates and clergymen of their districts, is among the most important of the preparations whicli ought to be recom- mended to intending emigrants. Moneij. — Emigrants are readily provided Avith Letters of Credit and l)ills payable at Victoria, on application at any of the London Banks. Risks are thus avoided ; and the Letter of Credit enables the holder to draw his money or deposit it upon landing, thus immediately affording him i\w advantages of a banker. Letters of Credit can be obtained with ease. Insurance of Bagga<)c. — The insmance of emigrants' bag- gage is also a precautionary measure which cannot be too st'vjngly recommended. Such insurances can be effected with little trouble at a small cost. The rates are from 1/. 10^'. to L. los. per 100/. The policies should be deposited with friends in England. Time of Sa'diiuj. — Emigrants, more especially those who intend either to work or trade in the gold-fields, ought so to time their departure from England as to arrive at the com- mencement, or at least, in the middle of the mining season, which generally lasts from April to November. Those who reach the colony during the winter months, will find travelling difficult, work slack, and, in the interior at least, provisions scarce and high. First-class Passenr/ers. — First-class cabin, or cuddy passen- gers, in their preparations for a voyage, have to consider the character of the ship in which they take their passage. On the Panama route everything is provided, for the mail steamers are in all respects floating hotels, where the guests find ample pre- parations for their comfort and convenience — board and lodging, attendance, furniture, and linen. Saih"ng-ships provitle for their first-class passengers board and attendance, and a cabin, which 524 Ari'KXDIX. each passenger lias to furnish fur liiniself. On the ^vhol(', the ditlV'RMice in the acconiniodatiou is nia(h; up by a difference in the rates of passaLTc. Ladies" Oulfifx. — l^'or ;i Lady: A dark silk dress for voyage, muslin, silk, and other dre'^ses; shawls, niunthvs, straw hat, lionnet with stinsliade; veils, blue or hrown ; dressing gowns; cambric muslin ehennscs; white and flannel petticoats; silk, cotton, and thread stockings; pocket and neck-liandkerchiefs; collars and cutfs; silk and kid gloves; calico night-dresses and drawers; nightcaps; travelling, work, and dressing-bag; looking-glass; perfumery; boots and shoes; one pair with thick soles for wet deck; towels and travelling rug or wrapp(!r. Cdbin Furiiituve. — When passengers have to furnish their cal)ins, they should also procure : sheets, pillow-cases, blankets, counterpanes; cainn sofa, to swing or stand, or an iron bedstead ; horse-hair or flock; one feather pillow; cabin washstand forming table; mahogany or teak chest of drawers; folding looking- glass ; cabin lamp ; candles ; clothes bag ; foot-bath and water- can; carpet or oil-cloth for cabin ; Windsor and marine soap; curtains for cabin ; floating belt, which forms a cushion. Li(r/(/af/e licrj illations. — The luggage should be made up in packages of a convenient size and shape, none exceeding eighty pounds in weight. Trunks three feet long, one foot three inches wide, and one foot two inches deep, are recommended for the purpose. The owner's name, destination, and number should be legibly painted on the top, sides, and ends of each trunk. The trunk intended for cabin use should be specially marked. VICTORIA AND ESQUIMALT IIAKBOUli DUES ACT, 18G0. Schedule A. Fees for Entrance and Clearance of Vessels entering and clear- in(j the Ports of Victoria and Esquiiualt. £ s. d. All vessels under 15 tons . . . . I) 4 2 between 15 and 30 tons . . (> 3 „ 30 and 50 „ . .084 VICTORIA AND i:S(H'l.\[ALT IIAIIIJOUI . DUES ACT. 52.') e ^vllolo, the £ .'-•. J. liff'erence in i^ll vessel,'' between 'A) and 100 ?> 12 <; » „ 100 and 200 59 18 9 for voyage, is 200 and 300 »J • 1 5 hat, l)onnet >i „ .'iOO and 400 *9 • 1 13 4 Qs; cambric )i „ 400 and 500 ?J 2 I 8 , cotton, and a nii(h'r 400 tons 1 13 4 colhirs and »? between oOO and GOO 5» 2 5 10 id drawers ; ii ()()() and 700 >» • 2 10 oking-glass ; a „ 700 and 800 i> o 14 2 oles for wet »» 800 and 900 ?? 2 18 1 » 900 and 1,000 >) 3 •> *4 (1 iirnish tlieir 91 „ 1,000 and Lipwar( Is 3 f) 8 3S, hhinkels. All steamers, bonu fide carry ng mails, to pay lialf the amount )n bedstead ; and forming of tiie above scale of fees, accoi ding to their tonnagt ng lookiug- i and water- Schedule B » lanne soap; lion. made up in eding eighty three inches ided for the er should be trunk. The irked. ACT, ISGO. // and clear- U. £ s. d. 4 2 (5 3 8 4 Ha Jf-^ca I 'bj L ice use for Coasic. i -s. Under 10 tons • • • Above 10 and under 30 tons . 5> 30 >j 50 „ . 55 50 Schedule C. 1 2 3 4 1 1 10 Wherries and skiffs plying for hire, and licensed to carry not exceeding six passengers. Per quarter . Row-boats and yawls plying for hire, and licenstMl to carry more than six passengers, and under ten tons burthen. Per quarter ..... Lighters and scows employed in freighting or dis- charging vessels, or otherwise, for hire, under ten tons burthen. Per quarter .... Lighters and scows exceeding ten tons. Per quarter And \s. additional for every ton exceeding ten tons, and up to 100 tons burthen. 2 2 52(1 Al'IMlXDIX. SCIIKDULE I). Landnifi Pennlfs. P\)r invoices under 100/. in Viiliu; . Above 100/. and under 2.')0/. in value For invoices al)ove 250/. and under .'>00/. in value For invoices above .^OO/. and under 1,000/. in vahie For invoices above 1,000/. .... £ 8. ' f. . 4 2 . (1 •» •> . s 4 . 12 4% . K) H Ilarhour Dues levied at New Wci^l minder. For every sailiui^-sliip or vessel above .'iO tons re^^dster, eitlier entering or leavin<^ the said port, per ton reirister . ;j For every steauj-vessel either entering or leaving the said })ort, i)er ton register . . . . .002 For every vessel (»f and under 30 tons, incluiling boats and canoes . . . . . .070 Pilotage. For every vessel clearing for, or entering from parts beyond sea, viz. : If less than G feet draught of water . . .500 If more than 6 feet, and less than 7 feet draught of water . . . . . . . 5 10 And for every additional foot of water up to 12 feet 10 And for every additional foot of water above 12 feet . . . . . . . . 15 Inland Kavifjation. Every steamer trading on the Fraser River, and not trading to any part beyond sea, per ton register per annum . . . . . . .020 l,ANI) IMIOCLAMATIOXS. W?^1 VANCOLVKK INLAND. LAND riJOCLAMATIONS BY HIS EXCELLENCY JAMES DOUULAS, £ s. </. CD., ETC. ETC. 4 2 (i :i I. 8 12 4 (i WliLreas I have bct'ii empowered by Her A[;ije,sty'.s (iovern- k; s nieiit to fix the upset price of country lund witliiii tlu? colony ot' A'ancouver Island and its dependencies at 4.!*. 2'/. per aere. . ;j [J . 2 ".070 . o it . 5 10 2 . 10 2 . 15 2 And whereas I have been authorised as aforesaid t^ takt; such stejjs as may tend to pnjiiiote the settlement of country land in the said colony. And whereas it is expedient to make public the method Ijy ^vhieh bona fide seltleis may ae(|uii'e th<.' same land. JJe it therefore known unto all men : All cuaittri/ huul to he sold at 4s. 2d. per acre. — Thai the upset price of all country land in Vancouver Island shall be from henceforth 4s. 2(7. per aere. lii'Ulsh subjects iu(i.>/ enfer upon and, occnpi/ land, not helmj olhenuise resevced, hi cci'tatu qiiantUies and in certain d.l.s- trlcts. — That from and after the date hereof, male Jbitish sul)Jects, and aliens who shall take the oath of allej^iance before the Chief Justice of ^'aneouver Island, above the ai;e of eijjjhteen years, may pre-empt unsold Crown lands in the <listriets of Victoria, Es([uimalt, ^Nletchosin, tlie Ilij^hlands, Sooke, Norlii and South »Saanich, Salt Sprinj,' Island, Sallas Island, and the; Chcmanis (not being an Indian reserve or settlement), of the area and under the conditions following' : — A single man, 1.30 acres.* A married man, whose wife is resident in the colony, 2(!() acres. For each of his children under the age of eighteen years, resident in tlie said colony, an additional 10 acres. Pre-emptor, before recording his claim, to take the oath of * Tlio terms of the most recent r.ftiul proclamation for iJritisli Colmiiliin is substantially the same as tlu; above, except that tiie (piantity of laml iillovreil a single man l)y pre-emption is 1<>0 acres. ,%. ^. M. -'^•^ ^V''"°' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4 1.0 I.I ■" Uli 12.2 IS US 1110 1.8 1.25 II 1.4 III 1.6 ^ 6" ► V] <^ '^ /i ^a 7. 7 Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4° .^-P k' 1 I/.. 528 A 1 TEX D IX. (dhf/iance if a British subject irjio has become subject to some other nation. — All British subjects, who shall he desirous of pre-empting, and who may, at the time of record, have taken the oath of allegiance to, or become the sultject or citizen of any foreign Sovereign, state, or nation, shall, as a condition pre- cedent to recording their claims, take the oath of allegiance in manner aforesaid. Pre-emptor to record Jiis claim immedicdehj on occnpcdion. Fee. — Immediately after occupation, the pre-emptor shall record his claim at the office of the Surveyor-Greneral at Victoria ; paying for such record the sum of eiglit shillings and fourpenco. Re()id<din(i theforni of claims. — The land selected, if unsur- veyed, shall be of a rectangular form, and the shortest side of said rectangle shall be two-fifths the length of the longest side; and the boundaries of such laud shall also run as nearly as possible by the cardinal points of the compass. Where the land sought to be accpiired is unsurveyed, and in whole or part bounded by rocks, mountains, lakes, swamps, the margin of a river, or the sea-coast, or other natural bounda- ries, then such natural boundaries may be adopted as the boun- daries of the land selected. The claimant shall, if the land is unsurvej^ed, give the best possiljle description thereof in writing to the Surveyor-General at the time of record, with a map thereof, and shall identify the land, by placing a post at each corner, and by stating in his description any other landmarks which may be of a noticeable character. Mode of recordinrj claims in siwveyed lands. — If the land, however, be surveyed, the claimant shall give the description aforesaid by identification with the landmarks laid down by the Government Survey. Paijinent. — The claimant shall, if the laud be imsurveyed, pay into the Land Office at Victoria the sum of four shillings and twopence per acre for the same as soon as the land is included within the Government Survey; if the land be sur- veyed, he shall pay into the said Land Office the sum of four shillings and twopence per acre by three instalments, viz. : One shilling and one penny per acre within one year from the day of record ; one shilling and one penny per acre within two years LAND PROCLAMATIONS. 529 to somr, sirous of ve taken en of any tiou pre- ^iance in 'vjKition. ill record Victoria ; ourpence. if unsur- ist side of vest side; nearly as id, and in swamps, 1 bounda- tlie boun- ! the best General entify the ng in his noticeable the land, escription wn by the isnrveyed, shillings 3 land is d be siir- n of four VIZ. : One the day of two years from the said day of record, and two shillings within three years from the said day ; and any default in any of the payments aforesaid shall cause a forfeiture of the pre-emption claim, and of the instalments (if any) paid np. Certificate of improvement to he granted after two years' occupation and 10«. ^^er acre improvement. — When the pre- emptor, his heirs or devisees, shall prove to the Surveyor- General, by the satisfactory evidence of third parties, that he has, or they have, continued in permanent occupation of the claim for two years from the date of record, and has or have made permanent improvements thereon to the value of ten shillings per acre, the said Surveyor-General shall issue to him or them a certificate of improvement, in the form marked A in the schedule hereto. Holder of certificate of improvement may sell, lease, or mortgage. — Upon the grant of the certificate of improvement aforesaid, the person to whom the same is issued may, subject to any unpaid instalments, sell, mortgage, or lease the huul in respect of which such certificate has been issued ; but until the entirety of the purchase-money of the said land has been paid, no sale, mortgage, or lease of the said lanil shall be valid ludess a certificate of improvement as aforesaid luis been issued in respect thereof. Conveyance of surveyed lands. — Upon payment of the entirety of the purchase-money, a conveyance of the land shall be executed in favour of the pre-emptor, reserving to the Crown the right to take back so much thereof as may be refjuired fur roads or other public purposes, and reserving also the precious minei-a,ls, with a right to enter and work the same in favour of the Crown, its assigns and licencees. Conveyance of pre-empted claim in unsurveyed lands. — If the land is not then included in the Government Survey, the conveyance shall, with the reservations aforesaid, be executed as soon as possible after the same is so included; and the pre- emptor shall, upon survey, be entitled to take any quantity of unpre-empted land, at the price of four shillings and twopence per acre, which may be laid off into the sections in which his pre-empted land is situate ; or, if unwilling so to do, he shall M M 530 AITENDIX. forfeit so much of the pre-empted land as lies in those sections which he is unwilling to purchase. Priorities. — Priority of title shall he ohtained hy the person who, heing in actual occupation, shall first record his claim in manner aforesaid. Forfeiture by cessation of occupation. — Whenever any per- son shall cease to occupy land pre-empted as aforesaid for the space of two months, the Surveyor-General may, in a summary way, on heing satisfied of such permanent cessation, cancel the claim of the person so ceasing to occupy the same, and record (le novo the claim of any other person satisfying the requisitions aforesaid ; and in the event of any person feeling aggrieved thereat, his remedy shall he personally against the person so recording. Compensation for waste or injury. — In the event of the Crown, its assigns or licencees, availing itself or themselves of the reservation to enter and work the precious minerals as afore- said, a reasonable compensation for the waste and damage done shall be paid by the person entering and working to the person whose land shall be wasted or damaged as aforesaid ; and in case of any dipute, a jury of six men, to be summoned by the Sur- veyor-General, shall settle the same. Nothing in the conditions hereinbefore contained, or in any title to he derived hereunder, shall be construed as giving a right to any claimant to exclude licencees of the Crown from searching for any of the precious minerals in any unenclosed land on the conditions aforesaid. Saving of ivater privileges for mining purposes. — Water privileges, and the right of carrying water for mining purposes, may, notwithstanding any claim recorded, certificate of improve- ment, or conveyance aforesaid, be claimed and taken upon, under, or over the land so pre-empted by miners requiring the same, and obtaining a grant or license from the Surveyor- General in that behalf, and paying a compensation for waste or damage to the person whose land may be wasted or damaged by such water privilege or carrying of water, to be ascertained, in case of dispute, by a jury of six men in manner aforesaid. Arbitration. — In case any dispute shall arise between persons with regard to any laud acquired as aforesaid, any one of the \ so sections the person s claim in r any per- iid for the , summary cancel the md record aquisitions aggrieved person so snt of the mselves of Is as afore- [nage done the person bnd in case J the Sur- , or in any 5 giving a rown from unenclosed js. — Water I purposes, f improve- ,ken upon, juiring the Surveyor- )r waste or ir damaged scertained, )resaid. ?en persons one of the LAND PROCLAMATIONS. 531 parties in difference may (before ejectment or action of trespass brought) refer the question in difference to the Surveyor- General, who is hereby authorised to proceed in a summary way to restore the possession of any land in dispute to the p(;rsou whom he may deem entitled to the same; and to abate all intrusions and award and levy such costs and damages as he may think fit, and for all or any of the purposes aforesaid to call in to his assistance the civil authorities or any process of law. Given under my hand, &c. James Douglas. II. Whereas I have been empowered by Her Majesty's Govern- ment to tiike such steps as may tend to promote the settlement of country land in the said colony. And whereas it is expedient to extend the time during which a person may cease to occupy land pre-empted under the provisions of a Proclamation given under my hand and the public seal of this colony, and dated the 19th day of February 1861. Now therefore, be it known unto all men, that any person having pre-empted land under the provisions of the said Pro- clamation may, if he shall have been continuously in occupa- tion of the same for the space of (8) eight calendar months next previously to his leaving, leave the same for any period not exceeding (6) six calendar months, provided that within (21) twenty-one days from the date of his leaving the same he shall fill in a memorandum in the book kept for that purpose in the Land Office at Victoria, with the particulars and in the manner therein contained. Given under my hand and the public seal, &c. James Douglas. M M 2 532 APPENDIX. IIULES AND REGULATIONS FOR THE WORKING OF GOLD MINES IN BRITISH COLUMBIA. ISSTTED m CONFORMITY WITH THE GOLD FIKLDs' ACT, 18o9. Whereas, it is provided by the Gold Fields' Act, 1859, that the Governor for the time being of British Columbia may, by writing under his hand and the Public Seal (if the Colony, make Rides and Kegulations, in the nature of By-laws, for all matters relating to Mining. Now therefore, I, James Douglas, (iovernor, &c., do hereby make the following Kules and Eegulatious, ac- cordingly : — I. In the construction of the following Rules and Regula- tions, unless there be some contrariety, or repugnancy thereto in the context, the words ' Governor,' ' Gold Commissioner,' ' mine,' * to mine,' shall have the same meanings as in the Gold Fields' Act, 1859. The expression 'Bar diggings' shall mean every mine over which a river extends when in its most flooded state. * Dry diggings ' shall mean any mine over which a river never extends. ' Ravines ' shall include water-courses, whether usually containing water or usually dry. * Ditch ' shall include a flume or race, or other artificial means for conducting water by its own weight into or upon a mine. ' Ditch head ' shall mean the point in a natural water-course or lake, where water is first taken into a ditch. And words in the singular number shall include the plural, and the masculine gender shall include the feminine. IT. All claims are to be, as nearly as may be, in rectangular forms, and marked by four pegs at the least, each peg to be four inches square at the least, and one foot above the surface, and firmly fixed in the ground. No boundary peg shall be con- cealed, or moved, or injured, without the previous permission of the Gold Commissioner. III. The size of a claim, when not otherwise established by a by-law, shall be, for bar diggings, a strip of land twenty-five feet wide at the mark to which the river rises when flooded, and thence extending down into the river indefinitely. For dry diggings, a space twenty-five feet by thirty feet. For ravine RULES FOR WORKING GOLD MINES. 533 F GOLD ^59, that I may, by •iiy, make II matters JO vein or, tioiis, ac- [ Regula- !y thereto lissioner,' the Gohl lall mean 3t flooded ch a river j, whether 1 iuclude ing water sad ' shall I ere water r niimher II include jctangular to be four rface, and I be cou- inission of shed by a y-five feet oded, and For dry or ravine diggings, a space of twonty-five feet along the bank of the ravine and extend up to thu top of each bank. In quartz claims the size, when not otherwise established by by-law, shall be one hundred feet in length, measured along the vein or seam, with power to the miner to follow the vein or seam, and its spurs, dips and angles, anywhere on or below the surface included l^etween the two extremities of such length of one hundred feet, but not to advance upon or beneatli the surface of the earth more than one hundred feet in a lateral direction from the main vein or seam, along which the claim is to be measured. All measurements of area are to be made on the surface of the earth, neglecting inequalities. Every claim is to have a distin- guishing number marked on its boundary pegs. IV. If any free miners, or party of free miners, shall discover a new mine, and such discovery sliall be established to the satis- faction of the Gold Commissioner, the first discoverer, or party of discoverers, if not more than two in number, shall be entitled to a claim double the established size of claims in the nearest mine of the same description (i.e., dry, bar, or quartz tliggings). If such party consist of three men, they shall collectively be entitled to five claims of the established size, on such nearest mine ; and if of four or more men, such party shall be entitled to a claim and a lialf per man. A new stratum of auriferous earth or rock, situate in a locality where the claims are aban- doned, shall for this purpose be deemed a new mine, although the same locality shall previously have been worked at a different level. And dry diggings discovered in the neigh- bourhood of bar diggings shall be deemed a new mine, and vice versa. V. The registration of claims shall be in such manner and form as the Gold Commissioner shall in any locality direct, and shall include, besides the matters mentioned in the Gold Fields' Act of 1859, all such other matters as the Gold Commissioner shall think fit to include. VI. No transfer of any claim, or of any interest therein, shall be enforceable, unless the same, or some memorandum thereof, shall be in writing, signed by the party sought to be charged, or by his lawfully authorized agent, and registered with the Gold Commissioner. 534 AITENDIX. Vir. Any person desiring any exclusive ditch or water pri- vilej^e, shall niak" application to the Gold Commissioner having jurisdiction for the place where the same shall be suuated, stating for the guidance of the Commissioner in estimating the character of the application, the name of every applicant, the proposed ditch head, and qii.antity of water, the proposed locality of distribution, and if such water shall be for sale, the price at which it is proposed to sell the same, the general nature of the work to be done, and the time within which such work shall be complete; and the Gold Commissioner shall enter a note of all such matters as of record. VIII. Unless otherwise specially arranged, the rent to be paid for any water privilege shall be, in each month, one average day's receipts from the sale thereof, to be estimated by the Gold Commissioner, with the assistance, if he shall so think fit, of a jury. IX. If any person shall refuse or neglect to take, within the time mentioned in his application, or within such further time (if any) as the Gold Commissioner may, in his discretion, think fit to grant for the completion of the ditch, the whole of the water applied for, he shall, at the end of the time mentioned in his application, be deemed entitled only to the quantity actually taken by him, and the Gold Commissioner shall make such entry in the register as shall be proper to mark such alteration in the quantity, and may grant the surplus to any other person, according to the rules herein laid down for the granting of water privileges. X. Every owner of a ditch or water privilege shall be bound to take all reasonable means for utilizing the water granted to and taken by him. And if any such owner shall wilfully take and waste any unreasonable quantity of water, he shall be charged with the full rent as if he had sold the same at a full price. And it shall be lawful for the Gold Commissioner, if such offence be persisted in, to declare all rights to the water forfeited. XI. It shall be lawful for the owner of any ditch, or water privilege, to sell and distribute the water conveyed by him to such persons, and on such terms as they may deem advisal^le, within the limits mentioned in their application. Provided xtcr pri- ir having sicuated, iting the cunt, the i locality } price at re of the shall be die of all ;o be paid average i by the think fit, ithin the ther time [on, thhik »le of the itioned in y actually ake such alteration sr person, y of water be bound granted to fully take shall be jame at a missioner, the water , or water by him to advisable, Provided RULES FOR WORKIXO (lOLD MINTA 535 always, that the owner of any ditch or water privilege shall be })()und to supply water to all applicants, lu'ing free miners, in a fair proportion, and shall not demand more from one person than from anotiier, except when the difficulty of supi)ly is enhanced. Provided further, that no person, not being a free miner, shall be entitled to demand to be supplied with water at all. XII. A claim on any mine shall, until otherwise ordered by some valid by-law, be deemed to be abandoned, and open to the occupation of any free miner, when the same shall have remained miworked by some registered holder thereof for the space of seventy-two hours, unless in case of sickness, or unless before the expiry of such seventy-two hours a further extension of time be granted by the Gold Commissioner, who may grant further time for enabling parties to go prospecting, or for such other reasonable cause as he may think proper. Sundays, and such holidays as the Gold Commissioner may think fit to pro- claim, are to be omitted in reckoning the time of non-working. XIII. Whenever it shall be intended, in forming or uphold- ing any ditch, to enter upon or to occupy any part of a registered claim, or to dig or loosen any earth or rock within [4] feet of any ditch not belonging solely to the registered owner of such claim, three days' notice in writing, of such intention, shall be given, before entering or approaching within 4 feet of such other property. XIV. If the owner of the property about to be so entered upon or approached, shall consider three days' notice insufficient for taking proper measures of precaution, or if any dispute shall arise between the parties as to the prope" precautionary measures to be taken, or in any other respect, the ■ .ole matter shall be immediately referred to the Gold CommL. ler acting in the district, who shall order such interval of time to be observed before entry, or make such other order as he may deem proper. XV. In quartz claims and reefs each successive claimant shall leave three feet unworked to form a boundary wall between his claim and the last previous claimant, and shall stake off his claim accordingly, not commencing at the Ijoundary peg of tlie last previous claim, but three feet fiulher on ; antl if any per- 530 AITKNDIX. Ron sliftll stake out liis claim, (li.sreganlin^ this rnlo, \ho, (ntld ('ominiHsioiifr shall have j)o\ver to come ami remove the fiiHt houmlary j)eg of such wronj^-doer 3 feet further on, notwith- standiujjf tlint other claims uiay then hv properly staked out beyond him; so that such wrong-doer shall then have hut 97 feet. And if such wron;j;-doer shall have commenced work innnediately at the boundary pe{^ of the last previous claim, the Gold Commissioner may remove his boundary G feet further on than the open work of such wrong-doer : and all such open work, and also the next 3 feet of such space of C feet shall belong to and form part of the last pn'vious claim, and the residue of such space of G feet shall be left as a boundary wall. XVI. Every such boundary wall shall be deemed the joint property of the owners of the two claims between which it stands, and may not be worked or injured, save by the consent of both such owners. XVII. In staking out plots of land for free miners and traders, for gardening and residential purposes, under the powers of the said Gold ?'ields' Act, 1851), contained, the Gold (^)nnuissioner is to keep in view the general interests of all the miners in that locality, the general principle being that every garden benefits indirectly the whole locality, and also the earlier application is to be .preferred ; but where the eligible spots of land are few, or of scanty dimensions, and especially where tliey are themselves auriferous, it may be injudicious that the whole or the greater part sboidd fall into the hands of one or two persons ; and therefore, in such cases, the Gold Commissioner may, in the exercise of his discretion, allot small plots only to each applicant. XVIII. Any person desiring to acquire any water privilege shall be bound to respect the rights of parties using the same water, at a point below the place where the person desiring such new privilege intends to use it. XIX. Any person desiring to bridge across any stream or claim or other place, for any purpose, or to mine under or through any ditch or flume, or to carry water through or over any land already occupied by any other person, may be enabled to do so in proper cases, with the sanction of the Gold Com- llL'LliS Foil WOUKING (iOLU AILN'KS. 5:^7 the firHt , iiotwith- takrd out liMVt' Imt iiuui'tiocd ])ic'vi(ms lUiulary G locr : and ich Hpaco pri'vious be left as tlic j(tint which it le consent iners and inder the . tlie Gold of all the :hat every he earlier e spots of here they the whole ne or two imissioner ts only to privilege the same liring such stream or under or y\\ or over ie enabled liold Com- missiiuicr. In all such oasc^.s the riglit of the party first in possession, whether of the mine or of the water privih'gi', is to ])ri'vail, so as to entitle him to full comj)ensHtion and indemnity. J{ut wherever due compensation by indemnity rati be ^'iveii, ntid is re(|uired, tiie (iold ('(»mmissioner may sanction the execution of sucli new work on such terms as he shall think reas()iial)le. AS TO LEASES IN LAltQER rUOroIlTIONS THAN CLAIMS. XX. Applications for leases are to be sent in triplicate to the (iold Commissioner having jurisdicti(»ti for the locality where the land desired to be taken is situated. Kvery such application sliall C(»ntain the names and additions of the appli- cant at full length, and the names and addresses (»f two pi^rsons residing in the colony of liritish Columi)ia, or Vancouver Island, to whom the applicant is ])ersonally known. Also a description accojupanied by a map of the land proposed to be taken. XXI. Leases will not be jnfranted in general for a longer terni than ten years, or for a larger space than ten acres of alluvial soil (<lry diggings;, or half a nn'le in length of unworked <|iiart?; reef, or a mile and a half in length of (piartz, tliat shall have been attempted and abandoned l»y individual claim workers, with liberty to follow the spurs, dips, and angles, on and within the surface for two hundred feet on each side of the main lead or seam, or, in bar diggings, ludf amile in length (if unworked), along the high-water mark, or a mile and a half in lenf'th alonrf high-water mark, where the same shall have been iit tempted and abandoned by individual claim workers. XXII. Leases as above will not in general be granted of any land, alluvium or quartz, which shall be considered to be immediately available for being worked by free miners, as holders of individual claims. Nor will such a lease in any case be granted, where individual free miners are in previous actual occupation of any part of the premises unless by their consent. XXI II. Every such lease shall contain all reasonable provi- sions for securing to the public rights of way and Avater, save in so far as shall be necessary for the miner-like working of the premises the'eby demised, and also for preventing damage to .'. '1 u AIM'F.VniX. tlio porsoiifl or proporty of other particH tli.in the lessee. And tlio pr»'iiiiso.s tlicrt'liy dc'iiiised hIiuII \)v i^TiUitcd tor mining jiiir- posrs oidy, iind it hIihII not be C()in[H'tent for tlie les.see to uHsi^ii or siil)-l(ft tilt! same, or miy part or parts thereof, without the previous lieeiise in writin<j^ of the Gold ('oininissioner. And every such lease shall contain a covenant l>y the lessee to nnne the saiil prciniises in a miner-like way, and also, if it shall bo thon^'ht fit to perform the works therein defined within a time therein linutcd. And also a clause by virtue wlu-reof the said lease and the demise therein contained may be avoided in case the lessee shall refuse or nei^lect to observe and perform all or any (»f the covenants therein contained. XX rV. Kvery ai)plicant for a lease shall, at the time of sending? in his application, mark out the j,'round comprised in the appli- cation, by 8(|uswe posts firmly fixed in the lioundaries of the land, and four feet above the surface, with a notice thereon that such land has been applied for, statin*^ when and by whom, .and shall also fix upon a similar post at each of the nearest places on which miners are at work, a copy of such notice. XXV. Objections to the granting of any such lease shall bo made in writing, addressed to His Excellency the Governor, under cover to the Gold Commissioner, who shall forward all such objections, together with his report thereon. XXVI, Every application for a lease shall be accompanied by a deposit of twenty-five pounds sterling, which shall be refunded in case the application shall bo refused by the Government ; and if the application shall be entertained, then such sum of twenty- five pounds shall be retained for the use of Her Majesty, her heirs and successors, whether the application be afterwards aban- doned or not. Issued under the Public Seal of the Colony of British Co- lumbia, at Victoria, Vancouver Island, this seventh day of September, in the year of our Lord One Thousand Eight Hundred and Fifty-nine, and in the Twenty-third year of Her Majesty's lieign, by me, JAMES DOUGLAS, [l. s.] By command of His Excellency, William A. G. Young, Acting Colonial Secretary. nULICS I'OR WORKING (iOLI) MLVKS. 5:j!) vsoc. And lining' piir- to JlHsijj;!! ithout the nur. And eo to niino it shall 1)0 liin u time »f the Huid led in cuso form all or ofsendinj^ I the appli- ries of tho iL'ieon that whom, and irest places se shall bo Governor, forward all npanied by )e refunded iment ; and 1 of twenty- lajesty, her vards aban- British Co- snth day of sand Eight lird year of [l. s.] iiUMCS AXi) iii:(u;lations koii the woukino of gold MINKS. M8UED ly CONFOHMITY WITH Till; OoLI) FIEI.Dij' ACT, iHijO. Whereas it is provided l)y the (J<»ld FIcMh' Act, IS.jO, that the (iovenior for the time beiii;^ of British Columbia may, by writinf,Minder his hand and tlu; IMililic Seal of tin; Colony, m;ik(f l{ules and Kej^iilations, in the nature of By-laws, for all matters relating to mining; And whereas, in conformity with the said Act, certain Ruh'S and I{egulations have already been issued, bearing date Si'ptem- ber 7, lHo9; And whereas, since the issuing of such Bules, extensive mines have been discovered on the high hivel benches, lying on either side of Fraser liiver, Thompson Kiver, and other rivers, which benches are generally terminated by abrupt and steep (lesci'iits or clififs, the general direction of which is parallel with the general direction o*' the rivers ; And whereas, such mines cannot be conveniently worked in small rectangular subdivisions, but the convenient working thereof recjuires a large size of claim, and may, in some cases, require that each claim should reacli from the cliflF in front of each bench to the cliff in the rear, or when there is no cliff in the rear, then to the general slope of the mountains in the rear; And whereas, it is also expedient to make further provision with respect to the regulation of claims, and to adopt one general rule for determining the measure of the quantity of water in any ditch or channel ; Now, therefore, I, James Douglas, Governor, &c., do hereby make the following Eules and Regulations accordingly: I. The mines in the said level benches shall be known as * bench diggings,' and shall, for the purpose of ascertaining tho size of claims therein, be excepted out of the class of * dry dig- gings,' as defined in the Rules and Regulations of the 7th of September last. II. The ordinary claims on any bench diggings shall })e regis- tered by the Gold Conunissioner according to such one of the 540 APPENDIX. two following methods of measurement as he shall deem most advantageous on each mine, viz. : One hundred feet square, or else a strip of land twenty-five feet wide at the edge of the cliff next the river, and bounded by two straight lines, carried as nearly as possible in each case perpendicular to the general direction of such cliff, across the level bencli, up to and not beyond tlie foot of the descent in the rear, and in such last-men- tioned case, the space included between such two boundary-lines when produced over the face of the cliff in front, as far as the foot of such cliff, and no further ; and all mines in the space so included shall also form a part of such claim. III. The Gold Commissioner shall have authority, in cases where the benches are narrow, to mark the claims in such manner as he shall think fit, so as to include an adequate claim. And shall also have power to decide on the cliffs which, in his opinion, form the natural boundaries of benches. IV. The Gold Commissioner may, in any mine of any deno- mination where the pay dirt is thin or claims in small demand, or where, from any circumstances, he shall deem it reasonable, allow any free miner to register two claims in his own name, and allow such jieriod as he may think proper for non-working either one of such claims. But no person shall be entitled to hold at one time more than two claims of the legal size. A discoverer's claim shall for this purpose be reckoned as one ordinary claim. V. All claims shall be subject to the public rights of way and water, in such manner, direction, and extent as the Gold Com- missioner shall from time to time direct. No mine shall be worked within 10 feet of any road, unless by the previous sanc- tion of the Gold Commissioner. VI. In order to ascertain the quantity of water in any ditch or sluice, the following rules shall be observed, viz. : The water taken into a ditch shall be measured at the ditch head. No water shall be taken into a ditch except in a trough, whose top and floor shall be horizontal planes, and sides parallel vertical planes ; such trough to be continued for six times its breadth, in a horizontal direction, from the point at which the water enters the trough. The top of the trough to be not more than 7 inches, and the bottom of the trough not more than all deem most feet square, or ige of the cliff nes, carried as :o the general ip to and not such last-men- boundary-lines t, as far as the in the space so ority, in cases laims in such dequate claim. 1 which, in his ; of any deno- small demand, it reasonable, lis own name, r non-working be entitled to legal size. A koned as one its of way and he Gold Com- miue shall be previous sanc- r in any ditch z. : d at the ditch )t in a trough, I sides parallel : six times its t at which the o be not more ot more than RULES FOR WORKING GOLD MINES. 541 17 inches below the surface of the water in the reservoir, all measurements being taken inside the trough, and in the low water or dry season. The area of a vertical transverse section of the trough shall be considered as the measure of the quantity of water taken by the ditch. The same mode of measiu'eraent shall be applied to ascertain the quantity of water running in a trough, or out of any ditch. Issued under the Public Seal of the Colony of British Colum- bia, at Victoria, Vancouver Island, this sixth day of Janiuuy, in the year of our Lord One Thousand Eight Hundred and Sixty, and in the Twenty-third year of Her Majesty's roign, by me, JAMES DOUGLAS, [l. s?.] By His Excellency's command, William A. G. Young. RULES AND REGULATIONS. ISSUED IN CONFORMITY WITH THE GOLD EIELDS' ACT, 1859. Whereas, under the Gold Fields' Act, 1859, the Governor for the time being of British Columbia is empowered by writing under his hand and the Public Seal of the Colony, to make Rules and Regulations, in the nature of By-laws, for all matters relat- ing to mining ; And whereas, in conformity with that Act, certain Rules and Regulations have been issued, bearing date the 7th Sept. 1859, the 6th Jan. 1860, and the 29th Sept. 1862, respectively; And whereas it is expedient to make further provisions for the working of gold mines ; Sec. L— Repeals Rule 3, of lih Sept. 1859.— The Rule Xo. 3 of those dated 7th Sept. 1859, declaring the size of mining claims, is hereby repealed, so far as it is inconsistent herewith. Sec. 11. — Size of Claims — Bar D!fj(jinr/s. — From and after the date hereof, the size of a claim shall be, for bar diggings, a strip of land 100 feet wide at the mark to which the river rises when flooded along such high-water mark, and thence extending down direct to the river, to the lowest water level. Dry Diggings. — For dry diggings, 100 feet square. 542 APPENDIX. General Diggmr/s. — For diggings not herein otherwise spe- cially described, 100 feet square. Quartz Claims. — In quartz claims the size shall be 150 feet in length, measured along the lode or vein, with power for the miner to follow the lode or vein and its spurs, dips and angles, anywhere on or below the surface, included between the two extremities of such length of 150 feet, but not to advance upon or beneath the surface or the earth, more than 100 feet in a lateral direction, from the main lode or vein, along which the claim is to be measured. All measurements are to be made on the surface of the earth, neglecting inequalities. Number — Staldng. — Every claim is to have a distinguishing number marked on its boundary pegs. Every individual claim, whether part of a company claim or not, shall be staked out with 4 corner pegs of at least 4 inches diameter, the same as defined in Rule 2 of the Rules and Regulations of 7th Sept. 1859. Tunnel Claims. — In tunnelling or sinking, each miner shall be allowed a frontage of 100 feet, irrespective of depth. The Gold Commissioner shall have the power to regulate what number of the miners, holding such claims, shall be employed prospecting, until gold in paying quantities shall have been discovered, after which the full number of authorized miners must be employed on the claim. The side boundaries of each claim shall be distinctly marked off by 2 parallel lines or rows of pegs, fixed in the ground at intervals of 5 feet or there- abouts ; the said boundaries or parallel lines shall be carried in a direction as straight and square as po&sible to the summit level. No party shall sink or drive ahead between the said parallel lines, saving with the consent of the party first in possession, until gold shall have been found as under mentioned. Extent of Claim. — The extent of claim to each miner shall be 100 feet square, and he shall be allowed to mark off the claim ahead of the spot, where gold in paying quantities shall have been obtained, beyond the limits of the claim so marked out. Rights of Prospecting. — Beyond these limits any other party may prospect by shaft and tunnel from the bottom thereof, and until a lead is struck in paying quantities, shall have the ex- clusive right of prospecting within two such parallel lines as lerwise spe- be 150 feet wer for the and angles, en the two Ivance upon 10 feet in a y which the be made on stinguishing idual claim, staked out he same as I Sept. 1859. miner shall lepth. The filiate what be employed have been ized miners ,ries of each ines or rows it or there- carried in a immit level, said parallel possession, d. miner shall aark off the ntities shall a so marked other party thereof, and lave the ex- llel lines as RULES FOR WORKING GOLD MLVES. 543 aforeaai'd, and shall then mark out his claim as above men- tioned. Tunnel under Hills. — In tunnelling under hills, on the frontage of which angles occur, or which may be of an oblong or elliptical form — no party shall be allowed to tunnel from any of the said angles, nor from either end of such hills, so as to interfere with parties tunnelling from the main frontage of such hills. In case of two or more parties tunnelling from opposite sides of the same hill, and their side boundary lines meet or intersect, or their claims meet, the party that first marks off their claim shall be entitled to priority of claim thereon. In case of tunnelling under hills, or fronts of hills, such as occur at the junction of creeks in which there may be two leads, all parties shall, if required, take their claims on the lead nearest the side of the hill at which their tunnel commences. Forfeiture of Claim involves Tunnel, &c. — The right to the tunnel and the ten feet of ground on either side of it, in addi- tion to the above claim, shall be considered as appurtenant to the claim to which it is annexed, and be abandoned or forfeited by the abandonment or forfeiture of the claim itself to which it appertains. Deposit of Leavings. — The Gold Commissioner may, where deemed desirable, mark out a space in the vicinity for deposit of leavings and deads from any tunnel. Sec. III. — Definition of Miners' Rights in a Claim. — Whereas it is expedient better to define the rights of registered free miners in their claims, it is hereby declared, enacted, and proclaimed — That Clause 7 of the Gold Fields' Act, 1859, is hereby repealed. Every free miner shall, save as against Her Majesty,' have, during the continuance of his certificate, the exclusive right to take the gold and auriferous soil upon or within the claim for the time being duly held registered and bona fide not colourably worked by him, and the exclusive right of entry on the claim for the purpose of working or carrying away such gold, or auriferous soil, or any part thereof, and also as far as may be necessary for the convenient and miner-like working and security of his flumes aud property of every description, and for a resi- dence — but he shall have no surface rights therein for any (ther 544 APPENDIX. purpose, save as next hereinafter mentioned, unless specially granted. ►Sec. IV.— One Record covers necessary Water and Claim. — In addition to the above rights, every registered free miner shall be entitled to the use of so nnicli of the water flowing naturally through or past his claim as shall in the opinion of the Gold Commissioner be necessary for the due working thereof. ►Sec. V. — Inclusive Wafer Privileges ; Preliminary Notice. — Where application is intended to be made for the exclusive grant of any surplus water to Ije taken from any creek or other locality, every such applicant shall, in addition to the existing refpiirements, affix a written notice of all the particulars of his application upon some conspicuous part of the premises to be affected by the proposed grant, for not less than five days before recording the same. Power to Gold Commissioner to Modify the Grant. — The Gold Commissioner, upon protest being entered or for reason- able cause, shall have power to refuse or modify such application or grant, either partially or entirely, as to hira shall seem just and reasonable. Saving of future Miners'' Rights to Water. — Every exclusive grant of a ditch or water privilege in occupied or unoccupied creeks shall be sulyect to the rights of such registered free miners as shall then be working or shall thereafter work in the locality from which it is proposed to take such water. Sec. VI. — Gold Penalties recoverable by Distress. — Whereas it is expedient to confer additional power for enforcing penalties .recoverable for infraction of the Gold Laws under section 40 of the Gold Fields' Act; It is hereby declared, enacted, and proclaimed, that such pe- nalties may, if deemed proper, be ordered to be recovered by sale and distress, to be levied forthwith or at any convenient interval after conviction and nonpayment within f-o many hours, or such longer time as shall be allowed by distress and sale of any claim or ditch or any personal property Avhatsocver of the person on whom such penalty may have been imposed. Sec. VII. — Certified Copy of any Gold Record to be Evidence. — Every copy of or extract from any record or register imder or by virtue of this Act or the Gold Fields' Act, 1859, or any other RULES FOR WORKING GOLD MIXES. 545 ss specially Claim. — In ner shall bo g naturally 3f the Gold eof. "1/ Notice. — e exclusive !ek or other ;he existing ulars of his inises to be days before 'rant.— The for reason- application 1 seem just ry exclusive unoccupied free miners the locality . — Whereas ng penalties 3ctiou 40 of lat such pe- ered by sale cnt interval urs, or such )f any claim e person on e Evidence. er imder or »r any other } 10s. 3d. Act which shall be made in relation to gold mines or gold fields, or any of the liules and Regulations made in pursuance thereof, respectively required to be kept by any Gold Commissioner, and certified to be a true copy or extract under the hand of the Gold Commissioner, or other person entrusted to take and keep sucli record or register, shall, in the absence of the original register, be receivable in any judicial proceeding as evidence of the matters and things therein appearing. Sec. VIII. — Fees on recordiiuj Claims. — So much of Section 6 of the Gold Fields' Act, 1859, as imposes a fee of 4s. on the regis- tration or re-registration of claims shall be and is hereby repealed. In lieu thereof it is hereby declared, enacted, and proclaimed there shall be paid to the Gold Commissioner for the use of Her Majesty, her heirs, and successors, the following fees : That is to say, Upon every Registration or Re-registration on record of any claim .... And no person, not being a free miner, shall be entitled to record a claim or any interest therein. Gold Commissioner may enlarge Ditches. — The Gold Com- missioner shall have power, whenever he may deem it advisable, to order the enlargement or alteration of any ditch or ditches, and to fix what (if any) compensation shall be paid to the parties to be benefited by such alteration or enlargement. Settlement of Districts. — As to Boundaries, &c. — In case of dispute as to boundary, or measurements, the Gold Commissioner shall have power to employ a surveyor to fix and mark the same, and cause the reasonable expense thereof to be paid by or between such of the parties interested in the question at issue as he shall deem fair and just. Served under the Public Seal of the said Colony, at Victoria, Vancouver Island, this twenty -fourth day of February, A.D. 1863, and in the Twenty-sixth year of Her Majesty's reign, by me, JAMES DOUGLAS. By His Excellency's command, William A. G. Young, Colonial Secretary. N N 540 APPENDIX. BRITISH COLUMBIA. NO. 4. AN ORDINANCE TO EXTEND AND IMPROYE THE LAWS RELATING TO GOLD MINING. [February 20, 1804.] Preamble. — Whereas, from the increased extent and import- ance of Gold Mining in British Columbia, it is requisite to make further provision as to the holding", sale, transmission, and dis- posal of claims and interests in claims, and to facilitate the creation of partnerships, and also to confer privileges under certain restrictions on free miners associating together for the more economical and systematic drainage of mining ground, and to raise revenue from the duties upon the registration of various mining matters ; Be it enacted hy the Governor of British Columl)ia, with the advice and consent of the Legislative Council thereof, as follows : 1. From and after the passing of this Act, so much of Clause thirty-one (31) of the Gold Fields' Act, 1859, as relates to the times of meeting of the Mining Board, shall be amended to read as follows : Mining Board Meetings. — The Mining Board shall meet at such times as a majority of the said Board shall decide, and one-half of the members of the said Board shall constitute a quorum. Provided, nevertheless, that it shall be lawful for the Gold Cominissioner, when and so often as in his opinion occa- sion shall require, to call together such ^Mining Board. 2. Bepeals Section 33 of the Gold Fields' Act, 1859. — Section 33 of the said Gold Fields' Act, 1859, shall be repealed, and the following provisions substituted in lieu thereof : Election of Mining Board. — The general election of mem- bers of the Mining Board shall be held on such day in each year, as the Gold Commissioner in each district shall appoint. Vaccc7icies in the Board. — And the Gold Commissioner shall fill by appointment all vacancies which may arise in the said Board, and when the same may occur, and such appointees shall hold office until the next general election. RULES FOR WORKING GOLD MINKS. 547 VS RELATING md import- site to make m, and dis- xcilitate the leges under sther for the ground, and m of various ia, with the thereof, as tch of Clause elates to the amended to lall meet at decide, and constitute a iwful for the pinion occa- ard. 59. — Section aled, and the ion of mem- day in each hall appoint, issioner shall ) in the said pointees shall 3. Mining Board may act without presence of Gold Commis- sioner. — Section thirty-live (35) of the said (Jold Fields' Act shall be amended by striking out the words Gold Commissioner in the first line of the said section. 4. Mining Board to manage its internal a, fairs. — The words Gold Commissioner shall be and are hereby struck out from Clause thirty-six (36) of the said Gold Fields' Act, 1859, wherever the same may occur therein, and in lieu thereof the words * majority of the said INIining Board ' shall be inserted throughout such clause, which shall be read and construed accordingly, reserving, nevertheless, to the Gold Commissioner, the power hereinbefore specified in Clause 1 of this Act. 5. Protection against davgerous works. — Upon complaint being made to him, the Gold Commissioner is hereby em- powered to order all mining works to be carried out in such manner as he shall think necessary for the safety of the public, or the protection of their rights, or the interest of the lujlders of claims adjoining to or affected by any such works, and to order any abandoned works to be either filled up or sufficiently guarded to his satisfaction, at the cost of the parties who may have constructed the same, or in case such parties shall be ab- sent, then to make such order in the premises as to such Gold Commissioner shall seem expedient. 6. Hill or Tunnel Claims. — All claims situated on the banks of or fronting on any natural channel, stream, ravine, or water- course, shall have a base line drawn parallel to the channel of the stream on which they may be located, such base line to constitute the frontage of such claims, and to be marked by posts of the legal size placed at intervals of 100 feet. Lines drawn at right angles thereto to constitute the side lines or dividing lines between claims. 7. Gold Commissioner may refuse to record certain Tunnel Claims. — Provided also that the Gold Commissioner shall have power to refuse to record any hill or timnel claim on any creek, which claim or any part thereof shall include or come within 200 feet of any gulch or tributary of such creek. 8. Gold Commissioner may decide all Mining Partnership Disputes.— Clause seventeen (17) of the Gold Fields' Act, 1859, is hereby repealed. N N 2 548 APPENDIX. 9. Bed-rock Flumes ', Poiver to Gold Commissioner to aiilhi>- rizc Bed-rock Flumes. — It hIiuU l)e lawful fur the Gold Commis- sioner to grant, or agree to grant, rights of entry on or under any lands in the colony, for the purpose of constructing, laying, and maintaing bed-rock flumes, for such terms, not exceeding ten years, with, under, and subject to such of the conditions and stipulations hereinafter mentioned with regard to bed-rock flumes, as in the opinion of such Gold Commissioner the in- terests of mining in his district, for the time being, may render advisable. Provided that every such grant or agreement shall contain a proper reservation of the rights of the Crown, and of public rights of way and water, and reservations of land for public or governmental purposes, and (so far as consistent with the objects of such grant) a reservation of private rights arising for the time being. 10. Who may be a Bed-rock Flume Company. — Three or more free miners may constitute themselves into a Bed-rock Flume Company within the meaning of this Act, and when duly autliorized, as lastly hereinbefore mentioned, may enter upon any river, creek, gulch, ravine, or other water-course in the colony, for the purpose of constructing and laying a bed-rock flume therein, and when not otherwise expressed in such authority as aforesaid, with the rights and privileges, and under the limitations and restrictions hereinafter specified. 11. Privileges of and requirements from Bed-rock Flume Companies. — Any company so authorized as aforesaid, and organized under the provisions of this Act, shall be entitled to enter upon any new and unworked river, creek, gidch, ravine, or water-course, and locate a strip of ground 100 feet wide and 200 feet long, in the bed of such stream, gulch, ravine, or water-course, to each man of the persons con- stituting such company, and shall have and enjoy the right of way from their upper line to extend the said flume for a further distance of 5 miles up the stream, gulch, ravine, or water- course, in the bed thereof. Provided that such company shall for each of the men constituting the same, construct and lay at least 50 feet of flum-^ luring the first year, and 100 feet annu- ally thereafter. 12. Free miners may lay Bed-rock Flumes above Bed-rock ,er to autho- ilcl Comniis- >n or under inj,^ layin<,s t exceeding iditions and bed-rock >ner the in- may render ement shall own, and of of land for sistent willi ghts arising . — Three or a Bed-rock [ when duly enter upon Lirse in the a bed-rock id in such 1, and under •ock Flume resaid, and be entitled 3ek, gulch, id 100 feet am, gulch, jrsons con- the right of or a further , or water- npany shall : and lay at feet annu- !e Bed-rock RULES Foil WORKLVU GOLD MINKS. 549 Flume Companies'' Claim. — In case any free miner or miners siiall enter upon, take up, and legally work any grouiul above the claim of the said J3e(l-rock Flume Company, and within the limits of their right of wa}', after the said company shall have become organized and located according to the provisions of this Act, such company shall be entitled to enter upon such claim or claims for the purpose of cutting a channel to and into the bed-rock if necessary, and of laying their flume through such claim or claims. Provided that such channel shall not be cut wider than ne- cessary for that purpose, and the owner or owners of such claim or claims shall be entitled to all the gold taken out of the cut. 13. Free Miners may use, hut not obstruct Bed-roch Flumes. — Any free nnner or miners lawfully holding and working any claims on any gulch, ravine, stream, or water-course, wh(;re a bed-rock flume may be constructed under the provisions of this Act, shall be entitled to tail their sluices, hydraulics, and ground sluices into such flume, but so nevertheless as not in the opinion of the Gold Commissioner, by rocks, stones, boul- ders, or otherwise unnecessarily to obstruct the free working of such flume. Provided that such Bed-rock Flume Company shall be en- titled to all the gold deposited in such flume. 14. Bed-rock Flume Companies may enter on ' abandoned ground.^ — Any company authorized and organized as afore- said, shall be, and are hereby empowered to enter upon any river, creek, gulch, ravine, or other water-course which may have been worked by miners and abandoned, and locate the entire bed of such stream, gulch, ravine, or water-course 100 feet in width, and one-half mile of the length of such stream, gulch, ravine, or water-course, for each one of the free miners constituting such company, and such company shall pos- sess the exclusive right to work the ground so located. * Abandoned ground^ hovj construed. — The term 'aban- doned crround ' shall be construed to include all new and un- worked ground outside of claims actually held and worked upon any stream, gulch, ravine, or water-course, which may have been discovered and mined for two years or more. 15. Bed-rock Flume Companies ivorkiny' abandoned ground'' 550 Al'I'ENDlX. io he f/ovenied by Claune 12. — Red-rock Flume Companies jiuthoiized and organized as aforesaid, and locating upon aban- doned streams or ground, shall Le governed by Clause 12 of this Act, in all cases wliere free miners or companies of free miners shall be legally holding and working claims on such stream or ground, prior to and at tlu; time of the location of such Jk'd-rock Flume Company's claim, if within tlie limits thereof. IT). Rivers, Ci'cel'S, tCr., ivhen not dfcmed ahaiuhmcd. — Any portion or part of any river, creek, gulch, ravine, or other water- course, having four or more free miners per mile, legally hold- ing and bona fide not colourably working claims, on such stream, gulch, ravine, or water-course, shall not be deemed ' abandoned ' within the meaning of this Act, but in such case any Bed-rock Flume Company desiring to run a flume through such portion or part of such stream, gulch, ravine, or water-course, shall be governed by the following clauses of this Act. 17. Boundaries of Bed-rock Flume Company''s claim, how fixed. — Any Red-rock Flume Company, as aforesaid, locating upon any portion of a stream, gidch, ravine, or water-course referred to in Clause 16 hereof, shall have their location care- fully surve3'ed, and a post with a square top driven securely into the ground, upon the lower line of each such claims, within such company's limits, and shall at the time of setting up such posts give notice to each of the holders of such claims, in writing, of the distance in feet and inches at which such company's flume will strike any such miner's claim, or per- pendicularly below the top of such post, and the number of inches grade which such flume has in each 100 feet. 18. After due notice, Bed-voch Flume Company can lay flume on any claim. — At the expiration of one calendar month, or such further time as the Gold Commissioner may allow, after survey and service of notice last aforesaid, it shall be lawful for such Flume Company to enter upon any claim or claims situated within such company's limits, and open a cut, and lay a bed-rock flume through such claim or claims, in case the owner or owners thereof shall have failed in the meantime to open their respective claims, and lay bed-rock flumes therein. Holder of such claim entitled to gold in flume. — Provided UULKS lOU WOlJKIMi (iULD MINES. .')5l C'ompniiieH upon abiiii- ilUHO 12 of lies of fi'oi! IIS on sucfi location of tlie limits mcd. — Any )ther wuter- 'i^'jilly hold- nch stream, abandoned ' y Bed-rock ich portion se, shall be claim, Jiow d, locatinjf ater-course L'ation care- ?n securely xch claims, i of setting' nch claims, which such m, or per- number of ly can lay dar month, allow, after J lawful for or claims Lit, and lay n case the eantime to 3 therein. —Provided that if such I?cd-rock Flume (-ompiiny shall so enter upon and lay the said Hume lhrouf,di any claim or claims, as last afore- said, tin* respeetive holder or holders of such claim or claims shall ho entidcd to all ^'oM takcMi from the cut and hed-n»ck, in openini,' tlie said cut and laying- the llunu' therein. ID. W/tal (/radcsl.) bn maliitiiuwd hy jti'inilc Clahii-hidilcvs. — Private claim-holders puttini;' in bed-rock Ihmies to connect with bed-rock flumes put iti by JJed-rock l"'lunu' Companies, shall maintain tiie like «;rade, and build their llimics as tliorou<4ldy and of as strong materials as are used by IJed-rock I'Mume Companies. 20. RUjhf of Claim-Jiobhirsv'lii > have horiic r.rpcnse of bed-rock finnc, io become iiiembers of Jird-rock Flume Corn panics. — Individual or company claim-holders, after the bed-rock flinnc has been extended through their respective rhiims at their own expense, shall have right at any time before the abandonment of their claim or claims to l)ecome members of the Ik^l-rock Flume Company, by uniting* their claim or claims with the ground of the company, find taking an interest proportionate to the area of the ground which they shall cede to the company, or work their ground on their own account, at their option. 21. liujld of l)cd-i\>vJ: Flume Company to ]\'aU'i\ — JJed-roek I'lume Companies, authorized and organized as aforesaid, shall be entitled to the use and enjoyment of so much of the un- occupied and iniappropriated water of the stream or streams on which they may be located, and of other adjacent streams, as may be necessary for the use of their Humes, hydraulic power, and machinery to carry on their mining operations, and shall have the right of way for ditches and Humes, to cimvey the ne- cessary water to their works, they being liable to other ])arties for anv damage which mav arise from running such ditch or Humes through or over their ground. 22. Bed-roch Flumes declared, pjersoncd pn'opjeriy. — Ik'd-rock flumes, and any interest or interests therein, and all fixtures, are hereby declared to be personal property, and may be sold, mortuaued, transferred, or otherwise dealt with as such. 23. Bed-roch Flume Company how rerjisteved, and fees pay- (ible. — Bed-rock Flume Companies, authorized and organized as aforesaid, shall measure off their ground, set up their stakes, Al'l'KNDiX. post their noticcH, and register their chiiins in the same nmn!i(»r as iu(livi(hial tVeu miners are re(|iiiri'(l to do, and sliall pay fivt; pounds sterlinj,' per annum, in addititju to thu rci^MHtrution fee, tor each halt' milu of chiim and right of way legally held hy such company. 24. Ind'ivulaal Clahu-holdersjliniihif/^ sultjrct tosainnrulrs, — Individual or company claim-holders, huilding hed-rock tlumes through their own gnjund, to connect similar Humes built by lied-rock Flume Companies, shall b«! subject to tluj t<amc ndes and regulations, with regard to cleaning up the flumt! repairs and other matters, in which both parties are interested, and pertaining to the rights hereby authorized and confirmed, as may be ado])ted by such Bed-rock Flume Company. 25. Private Company Duty abandon claims, and appropt'iate gold in Jlnme. — Provided that if any private or company claim-holders shall desire to abandon their respective claims, they may give notice to such Bed-rock Flume Company of such intention, and shall then have the right to proceed at once to clean up their portion of such Hume, or wait until such com- pany cleans up, and then take all the gold which may be found in their portion of such flume. Such flume deemed abandoned and to vecrH to Bcd-voch Flume Company. — Provided also that when such individual or company claim-holders shall have given the notice aforesaid, and cleaned up their section of the said flume, such claims shall be deemed to be abandoned with the flume therein, and such abandonment shall revert to the benefit of such Bed-rock Flume Company. 26. Bed-rock Flume Notice. — Any free miners or company of free miners, applying for the privilege of constructing a bed- rock flume, shall comply with the requirements of Clause twenty-four (24) of the Gold Fields' Kules and Regulations, issued on the 7th day of September, 18o9, and also put up a notice of such application in some conspicuous part of the town place, or at the Court House nearest to the locality applied for, at least five clear days before making such application. 27. Deads and Leavimis not to obstruct stream. — The period at the end of Clause two (2) of the Rules and Regulations issued on the 24th day of BY'bruary 1863, is hereby struck out, and it)(> inaiUM't' nil pay fivo ttnitioii tV'L', lly held by smuft 111 h's. L( bed-rock ilar Hunics )jt'Ot to tlio p tlui flimu! interested, continued, ppropn'ate V company ive eluiuiH, any of such at once to .such coni- y be found ) Bed-rod) Jividual or )re.said, and ns shall be and such rock Fliune company of no- a bed- of Clause egulations, ) put up a •f the town pplied for, n. The period ions issued k out, and KULliS FOU WOUKIXU (iULD MINKS. •)00 the following' words added thereto, to mi: 'or whaft, and in no case shall the said deads or leavin<,'s, forkinj^'s from sluices, waste dirt, lar<,'e stoiu's or tailiuj^'s be allowed to accumulate so as to obstruct the natural course of the stnam.' 2W. Minor of Si.flccii ' ii-hen parhicrs) to he ilirmi'il oidilf frrc, iniiu'rs. — The interest of uiliiors over sixteen years of a,<,'e shall be subject to the same laws as ff^'ply to the interests of adult free miners, and they Hhall <'njoy th. ;ime rijjjhts thereto as adults, but no person ufider the age of sixteen years shall bo capable of holding any c\iuin or int<.'rest thf*rein. 29. MiiiiiKj co-pdi'du'i'sltipf. -And whereas if is necessary to provide facilities for the formation of nuning co-partiursliips, be it enacted — Minutes of co-partnership when no deed of partnership exists. — That all mining companies shall be governed by the provisions hereof, unless they shall have other and written articles of co-partnership properly signed, attested and recorded. 30. Duration of miniiKj co-pjartnership. — No mining co- partnership shall continue for a longer time than one year, unless otherwise specified in writing by the parties, but such co-partnership may be renewed at the expiration of each year. .'H. Confined to miniufj. — The business of the co-partners herein referred to shall be mining, and such other matters as pertain solely thereto. 32. Poivera of a Majority, — A majority of the co-partners, or their legally authorized agents, may decide the manner of working the claims of the co-partners, the number of men to be employed, and extent and manner of levying assessments to defray the expense of working the claim or claims of the com- pany, and all other matters pertaining thereto ; provided that every such company's claim shall be represented according to law. Such majority may also choose a foreman or local manager, who sliall represent the company, and have power to bind such company by his contracts, and sue and be sued in the name of the company for assessments and otherwise ; and every such partnership must register its partnership or company name with the Gold Commissioner. 33. Assessments, ivhen payable. — All assessments levied 554 AITENDIX. (luring the time of working sliail be payfible witliin ten clear (lays after each such assessment. 34. Payment of Ansessmentyiu default hoiv ciiforeed. — Aiy party failing c»r refusing to pay any assessment or assessments, leviable according to the provisions of this Act, after having re- ceived any notice thereof, specifying the amount due during the period the said party may be (lelin(]uent, shall be personally liable to his co-partners for the atnount of such delinquency, and the amount of such delinfjuent's indebtedness having l)een ascertained by a court of competent jurisdiction, his interest in said company's claim may be sold for the payment of the amount found due, with interest (if any) and costs as hereafter specified. 35. Notice of Sale. — The notice of sale of such delinquent's interest, or such part thereof as shall suffice to pay the amount of indebtedness, with interest and costs as aforesaid, shall be published by advertisement in some newspaper published in the district, for ten days prior to the day of sale, and if there be no paper published in the district, then notices of such sale shall be posted for the same length of time, in the vicinity of the claim or interest to ]io sold, and at the Court House nearest thereto. Such sale shall be by public auction to the bidder offering to pay the amount due for the smallest portion of said claim or interest. The purchaser at such sale, on payment of the purchase-money, shall ac(|uire all the right, title, and interest of the delinquent, in and to the interest sold, and shall be entitled to the immediate possession thereof. 36. No one recognised except a free miner in a claim. — The following part of Clause seven (7) of the Gold Fields' Act, 1859, shall be deemed to have been never repealed, that is to say,— No person shall be recognised as having any right or interest in or to any claim or ditch, or any of the gold therein, imless he shall be, or in case of disputed ownership, unless he shall have been at the time of the dispute arising, a free miner. 37. Miner''s record covers only unappropriated water. — Clause 3 of the Proclamation of the 25th day of March, 1863, is hereby repealed, and the following provisions are substituted in lieu thereof: In addition to the above rights, every registered free miner RULES FOR WORKL\:a (lOLU MINKS. OOO in ten clear orced. — Any assessments, r having ro- e during tjie personally ielinqiiency, laving be(>n s interest in nent of the as hereafter delinquent's the amount \k\, shall be lished in the there be no )h sale shall inity of the buse nearest I the bidder rtion of said . payment of t, title, and Id, and shall ?laim. — The s' Act, 1859, is to say, — it or interest 3rein, unless ess he shall miner. ed water. — larch, 1863, ! substituted free miner shall be entitled to the use of so much of the water naturally flowing through or past his claim, and not already lawfully ap- propriated, as shall in the o[)inioii of the Gold Commissioner be necessary for the due working thereof. .38. Production of free rnhier^s cerflficdie hffore record. — It shall be lawful for the Gold Commissioner, previous to recording a claim or interest therein or other matter, to demand from tlie applicant the production of his free miner's certilicate, and upon his refusal or neglect to produce the same, to refuse to record such claim, interest, or other matter. .39. General fee on record! n;/ minhu/ matter. — For every record which the Gold Commissioner sh.all be called upon to make, whether of leave of absence granted or any matter or thing whatever relating to mining, and for which a sp(,'cial fee shall not have been provided l)y any law, rale or regulation in that behalf in force for the time being, the Gold Commissioner shall charge a registration foe of ten shillings and sixpence, but for every search of a record only four shillings and twopence. 40. Dlstinf/n'tshinrj number of claims aJtoHshed. — Xo dis- tinguishing numl)er shall hereafter be recpiired, or be deemed to have been ever recjuired, for or in respect to any claim, any existing law or rule to the contrary notwithstanding. 41. Gold in claim to be ore of (job I. — All gold found in any gold mine in the colony shall be deemed and taken to be ore of gold, within the meaning of the statute. 42. Claims recorded in the close season when laid over. — Xo claims located and recorded in any district within fourteen days after the claim therein shall have been laid over by the (iold Commissioner till the ensuing season or other specific date, shall be allowed or deemed to be so laid over, unless so nuich woxk shall have been bona fide expended thereon by the holders thereof, as shall in the opinion of the Gold Commissioner fairly entitle him to have such claim laid over. 43. Tltree days'' grace for every 10 miles before record. — Every free miner shall be allowed three days in which to record his claim by pre-emption after the same shall have been located, if such claim shall be within 10 miles of the Gold Commis- sioner's office; if more than 10 miles from it, then one addi- tional day shall be allowed for every additional 10 miles or fraction of 10 miles, as the case may be. 550 APPENDIX. 44. Limits claims by pre-emption to two claims. — Every adult free miner shall be allowed to hold two claims by pre- emption, viz., one quartz claim and one other claim, and no more ut the same time, but by purchase may hold any number or amount of claims or interests therein, which have been once duly rej^istered, subject to the laws for the time being regulating the same. And every adult free miner may lawfully sell, mort- gage, transmit, or dispose of any nuniber of claims or interests therein, lawfully held or acquired by him, whether by pre- emption or purchase. 45. What is a mlner''s interest in a claim. — The amount of interest which a free miner has in his claim shall, save as against Her Majesty, her heirs and successors, be deemed and taken to be a chattel interest equivalent to a lease for a year, renew- able at the end of the first and every subsequent year, subject to the conditions as to forfeiture, working, representation, re- gistration, and otherwise, for the time being in force with respect to such claim or interest under any law or rule regulating the same. Forfeiture absolute. — Provided that every forfeiture of a claim under any such law or rule shall be absolute, any rule of law or equity to the contrary notwithstanding. 46. Deceased free miner^s claims not forfeitable. — In case of the death of any free miner, while registered as the holder of any claim or ditch, his claim or interest shall not be open to the occupation of any other person for non- working or non- repre- sentation, either after his decease or during the illness which shall have terminated in his decease. 47. Gold Commissioner may heep afoot or sell deceased miner''s claim. — And in all cases where the Gold Commissioner shall find that such free miner shall be possessed of a claim or ditch, or interest therein, he may cause the same to l)e duly repre- sented until sale on such terms as he shall think just, or dis- pense with the same at his option, or may sell such claim, ditch, or interest by auction, after ten days' public notice thereof, for such price as in his judgment he shall deem just and fair; and for the purpose aforesaid, the Gold Commissioner may employ and pay out of any assets of the deceased which may come to his hands, such valuers or persons as may be necessary. 4H. (iold Co))ini(Ssioiiers coiiceyance a good title. — Everv RULES FOR WORKING GOLD MINES. 557 (7118. — Every lims by pre- and no more y number or 'e been once ig regulating ly sell, mort- 3 or interests :her b}'' pre- e amount of tve as against 1 and taken year, renew- year, subject lentation, re- with respect gulating the 'feiture of a !, any rule of >le. — In case bhe holder of } open to the r non-repre- illness which ased miner'' 8 ssioner shall dm or ditch, duly repre- just, or dis- claim, ditch, thereof, for id fair; and may employ lay come to •iry. 'Me.—V.veYv assignment of any such interest by the Gold Commissioner shall convey to the assignee all the right and interest of the deceased miner, thereby purported to be conveyed, and shall be subject to the same registration and fees as if such assignment had been made by such miner before his decease. 49. Notice of offi^clal administration. — The Grold Commis- sioner shall, in all cases of death of every registered free miner, give notice thereof as soon as conveniently may be, and also of any acts and interferences of such Gold Commissioner, to the official administrator, who shall in all cases which may seem fitting, take out probate or letters of administration as the case may require, and collect and get in the estate and effects of the deceased in the usual and proper way ; no such dealing or inter- ference as aforesaid, by the Gold Commissioner, shall make him in any way liable as an executor de son tort, or in any way liable for unintentional losses or in any other responsibility, than to account to the personal representative of the deceased, when duly constituted, for all monies actually received and expended by him in the matter of the estate and effects of the deceased. 50. Alloivance to Gold Commissioner. — Every Gold Commis- sioner who shall so act in the collection and custody of the estate and effects as aforesaid, shall be entitled to his own use to an allowance thereout not exceeding in any case 5 per cent, on the whole amount collected. 51. Fees on registration as in Schedule. — On the registra- tion of any of the matters, acts, deeds, documents, or things mentioned in the Schedule hereto, there shall be payable in respect thereof by the party seeking such registration, the several duties and sums of money set opposite such matters, acts, deeds, documents, and things respectively in the schedule hereto, such payments to be taken by the Gold Commissioner or other officer effecting the registration at the time of each registration, and for the use of Her Majesty, her heirs and successors. 52. Every sale, mortgage, alienation, or other disposition of any claim, ditch, or other mining property, or of any interest therein respectively, shall be made by an instrument in writing which shall be registered with the Gold Commissioner, or other officer duly authorised in that behalf in the district in which such property is situated, in separate books to be kept by him 558 APPENDIX. for the purpose, and every such conveyance, mortgage, or otlier document shall set forth, truly expressed in words at length, the full bona fide price, consideration, or value that has been or has to be paid directly or indirectly in each transaction, or in default thereof shall be void. 53. In case of any dispute, the title to claims, leases of auri- ferous earth or rock, ditches or water privileges, will be re- cognised according to the priority of registration, subject only to any question which may be raised as to the validity of any particular act of registration. 54. Certified copy of record evidence. — Every copy or extract from any record or register, under or by virtue of this Act, or the Gold Fields' Act of 1859, the Proclamation of 25th day of March, 1863, or any gold rules and regulations required to be kept by any Gold Commissioner, and certified to be a true copy or extract under the hand of the Gold Commissioner, or other person authorised to take and keep such record or register ; shall in the absence of the original register, be receivable in any judical proceedings as evidence of all matters and things therein appearing. 55. Saving of Crown rirjhts. — Nothing herein shall be con- strued to limit, or abridge the prerogative rights of Her Majesty, her heirs and successors, in or to the Gold Fields of British Columbia. 56. To be constmed as one iviih the Gold, Fields' Act, 1859. — This Act shall be construed as far as possible with the Gold Fields' Act, 1859, and proclamation of the 25th day of March, 1863, and the Eules and Kegulations made in pursuance thereof respectively. 57. Schedule part of Act. — The schedule hereto shall be part of this Act. 58. Short Title. — This ordinance may be cited for all pur- poses as the « Gold Fields' Act, 1864.' Passed the Legislative Council the 24th February, a.d. 1864. Chables Good, Clerk. Received my assent this twenty-sixth day of February, A.D. 1864. JAMES DOUGLAS, Governor. age, or otlier it length, the i beeu or has or in default lases of auri- will be re- suLject only lidity of any )py or extract ' this Act, or ■ 25th day of quired to be i a true copy ner, or other or rei>'ister ; receivable in rs and things shall be con- Her Majesty, ds of British Act, 1859.— ith the Gold ay of March, uance thereof INDEX. I shall be part for all pur- ry, A.D. 1864. ODD, Clerk, -sixth day of Governor. 1 A A A A Al Al Al INDEX ACA A CAPULCO, present condition of, Ac-cla, copper lodes and quartz veins at, oO Acheewun, the Lamalcha Indian, and his rubtieries, 469 Adam's River, the valley watered by, 188 Admiralty Island, salt springs on, 1G9. Farming land at, 186 Agriculture in Vancouver Island, 172. Remunerative character of agricul- tural pursuits in the colony, 173. Climate of the Island, 174. Soils, 182. Agricultural districts, 184. Crown lands, sold, unsold, and pre- empted, 184. Inviting districts for hardy pioneers, 189. Average yield of crops, 193. Stock, 195. Grazing, 196. Prices of produce and stock in Vancouver, 197—199. Amount of agricultural produce introduced into Vancouver Island, 199. Clearing, times of sowing, &c., 201. Princi- pal articles for working and stocking a pre-empted farm, 20.5. Terms of settlement for land, 205. In British Columbia, 280. Climate of the colony, 280. Soils,284. Agricultural districts, 285. Yield and prices of crops, 290. Dr. Taylor's statement of firming on the Upper Fraser River, 291. Stock raising, 291. Fruits, 293. Terms on which land may be acquired in British Clolumbia, 295. Land pro- clamations of Sir James Douglas, 528 Alberni canal, the, 51 Albion, New, Drake's discovery of, 54 Aleutian Islands, walrus fishing {ironnds near the, 169. Facilities at, for catching and curing fish, 1 09 O BAR Alexandria, farming land at, 287. Ale.\andria, in Kgypt, foundation of. 336 America, immediate cause of the dis- covery of, 339. American .society, first expcrienceof, 11. Ladies, 397 Anderson & Co., their export trade in timber, 234. Andersion Lake, 215 Anian, Straits of, 54 Animals of Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 297. Scientific names of those found in Vancouver Island, 305 Anthracite coal of Fuca Straits, 142 Antler Creek, gold mining population of, in I860 and 1861, 74. Diffsincs at, 243,244 "^ ^ Antonio, San, silver mines of, 26 Arabians, commerce of the, 338 Arms of Indians, 443 Arrowsmith, Mount, 40 Artesian Gold Mining Company Li- mited, 247 Assay office in Victoria, 88 Astoria, on the Columbia River, 28 Australia, introduction of salmon info the rivers of, 125. Rhymes on the event, 125, 7iute Azores, the, 2 BACON, price of in Vancouv.r Island, 198. Demand for, at the mines of British Columbia, 291 Banks in Victoria, 87 Baker, Mount, eruption of, 216 Barclay Sound, position of, 51 Barley, price of, in Vancouver Island. 197 ' Bars, at the diggings, 240 5G2 IXDEX. r.KA JJonconliill I'avk, Victoria, 77. View from the hi;:li knoll in tiio centre, 77 lieaiis, price oF, in \'ancouver Island, i:(8 JJears in Vancouver Island and British i'olinnbia, L>1»7 Beaver Lake.farminfr land at, 287. IJeaver dams in Vancouver Island, ITiS. And in British Columbia, 'MM Beef, prices of, in Vancouver Island, 1!)7, 11)8 Beliring Straits, wnlrus fishing ground near, 1 V>'J. Facilities at, for catching tind curing fish, IG'.I Bella Coola, or Nookhalk river, 230 Bellingham Bay,lignitic beds at, 41,42 Bentinek Arm, route fnnn the coast to the northern mines of British (Columbia, 235. Indian murder at, 402 Benton, Thomas II., his interpretation of the ()reg(m Boundary Treaty, 37 Bigbar (!reek, farming land at, 287 Birch, Mr., Colonial Secretary's report on the Kootanie diggings, 2.^3 Birds of Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 3t»l Bktnco, Cape, discovery of, 52 Blansliard, (Governor, how treated by the Hudson's Bay C<mipany, 311 Boulders, erratic, in Vancouver Island, 43 Bowls, wooden, of the Vancouver Island Indians, 50 Breweries in ^'ictoria, 85 Bridge Creek, farming land at, 287 Brine springs of Salt Spring Island, 48. Of Naniamo, 48 Brown, Mr., his description of Van- couver Island, 40. II is discovery of gold at Sooke river, 150 Brimswiek, New, timber trade of, com- pared with that of N'ancouvev Island, 137 Bucardi, Port, discovery of the Bay of, 50 ' Bunch-grass ' in British Columbia, 293 Burial among the Indians, 447 Burrard Inlet, exploded argument in its favour as a naval station, 127. Coal seams at, 41, 151 Bute Inlet, route to the northern mines by, 238. Indian massacre of the ■whites at, 403 Butter, price of, in Vancouver Island, 197, 198 Buzzards at Panama. 10 CHI 0.\BRILT<O, Juan, liis expedition from Xalisco north, 52 Calaveras County, mammoth- trees of, 24 California, passage from Panama to, 10. The steamer and her passengers, 10. Culf of, 12. Description of the state of California, 13. Fertility vt' the valleys of, 22. The vine, 22. Vegetables, 22. The mammoth-trees, 24. Uesources of tlie state, 24, 25. Placer diggings and hydraulic mining at, 20 Discovery of, 52. Hush from California to the Fraser river, 04, 05. Table of expoi'ts from Victoria to, in October 1804,115. Civil disabilities of Chinese and no"'""':.;in, 381. Tlieir temples to Buddha in, 385 Canada, heavy import duties in, 92. Timber trade of, contrasted with that of Vancouver I.-land, 137 ('annibals among the Indians, 436 'Caribes' of the West Indies, 4 Cariboo, diary of a journey from Doug- las to, 224. Paths from William's Lake to, 235. Character of the Ca- riboo district, 245. ' Creeks and Gulelics," 240. Prediction of Sir Ilod- eriek ^lurehison, 240. Prospects of Cariboo, 251. Prices at Cariboo iu November 1804, 252. Carthagena, town of, 0. Sharks off, 7 Cascade Mountains, the, 210, 237. Climate west of the, 282 Catholics, Ronum, in A'ancouver Island, 82. The Sisters of Charily on the coast ot the Pacific, North of Mexico, 8'. In New Westminster, 220. Intln- cnce of tlie Roman Catholics over the Indians, 472. Bishop de Mers' self- interpreting Bible, 475 Cattle, horned, in Vancouver Island, 195. In British Columbia, 293 Cavendish, his adventures in the Pa- cific, 54 Caviare, a bushel of, taken from one sturgeon, 107 Channel Islands, causes of the flourish- ing condition of the, 93. Cheese, price of, iu Vancouver Island, 198 ChiUikw>'yuk, pastoral kind at, 222,228 China, denuind for timber in, 122. Extent of Navigation of the Yangtse and Amoor Rivers, 122. Increasing trade with the Celestial Empire, 122. Current of warm water breaking at Vancouver Island, 175. liis expedition til, r,-2 iininoth- trees of, m Panama to, 1 0. T passengers, 10. cription of the 13. Fertility vf The vine, '22. e niaiiimoth-trees, the state, '24, i't. liydraiilie inininj; f, 52. Hush from aser river, 04, (>."). ;)in Victoria to, in Civil disabilities i':r,in,.181. TJieir in, SS.'j rt duties in, 92. contrasted with I.-iland, i;57 Indians, 416 Inilies, 4 irney from Donjr- 5 from William's racter of the C"a- ). ' Creeks and diction of SirRod- 14(J. Prospects (if •ices at Cariboo in 52. (). Sharks off, 7 the, 21G, 237. 282 N'ancouver Island, )f Charity on the , North of Mexico, linster, 220. Inthi- Catholics over the hop de Mers' self- 47.5 raneouver Island, Columbia, 293 itures in the Pa- taken from one ;es of the flourlsh- e, 93. 'ancouver Island, illand at, 222,228 timber in, 122. on of the Yangtse 122. Increasing istial Empire, 122. •vater breaking at 17.J. JNT)K.\. CUT Cliinamen, number of, in California, 24. At ('aril)oo. 23.'1. At Hope ami Fort Vale. 24. Civil disahililies of the. in California, .".81. Their habits in Cali- fornia and (he Hritish (,'olonies, .'l.s2. Ilesnlts of missionary labour amongst them, 3S3. Their tem|)lcs to Uuddiia, iu California. 3S5. ^'i!.itto one, 385. The Chinese address to (Jovernor Kennedy, in N'aneouver Island, 380. Christianity among the Indians, 472, it SV(f. Clay, blue, found in Vancouver Island, 1.54 Clayoq-'ot S(nmd, mineral wealth of, 51 Clearing land in \'aneouver Island, 201 Climate of Vancouver Island, 174. 'i'he ('hina current at, 175, Fraser river freshets. 176. Mean of the ther- mometer, 170. Occasional cold ■winters, 176. Drs. Forbes and Hat- tray's register of the weather, 177. The climate conipared with tiiat of Canada and London, 179. Asjiect of nature in Maj". 180. The clinuite of Vancouver Island, in its con- nexion with health, 181. The climate of Hritish Columbia, 280. And of the proposed emigrant route from the Atlantic to the Pacific, 308, 309 Clinton, town of, 2.">3 Civil list of Vancouver Island, 3 1 9, ."20 Coal in ^'ancouver Lsland, 141. The mines of Nanainio, 41, 48, 14 1. Coals of Qiiatsino Inlet, 49. Those on the American side oi' Fuea Straits, 142. Consumption of coal in the Morth Pacilie, 142, Coals from Coose Bay and IMount Diablo, 142. Coal fields of Heliingham Jiay and Washington Territory, 142. Supe- riority of the \'ancouver Island coals, 142. Chemical comparison of \'an- couver Island coal with other varieties, 143. Dr. Rattray's statement re- specting the importation of coal into San l-'rancisco, 143. Comparative lists of prices of coal at Vancouver Island and San Francisco, 144. Thick- ness of the seams at Nanaimo, 144. Fcn'mation of the Vancouver Island Coal, Mining, and Land Company, 145. Total quantity shipped from Nanaimo 146. Report of the company, quoted, 146, 147. Markets for Vancouver Island Coal, 149. Formation of the llarewood Coal Mining Company, 149. Coa Seams at other places in the Island, 150, 151 COM Col-banks, said to exist in riiimpcr's Pass ami North of Niincniiver Island, 108 Colleges and schools in Viotoria. 84 ' Colonial School, the." in Victoria, SI Colonies, claims of young, on the aid of Kngland, 508. '('are of the I'ni- ted .States for young colonies. 511. Colonial statistics, circulated lor the Colonial F.migration Society, for tiie year 1S59, 517 Columbia Hiver, the, 28 Columbia, Hritish, discovery of gold in, 04. 'i'lie letters of the ' 'I'imcs ' cor- respondent in lf<(ii, 75. Proposed union of with th^' free port of \'ietoria, 95,3ii;i. Advant;igis of the free port to I5riiish Columbia, 95. Kesolutions jiassed by the legislature of \'ancou- ver Island respecting the propose, 1 union, 105. Tlie sea-board of Hrit- ish Colunihia, 207. Il.xploralions of Sir Alexander ^lackeiizie, 2os. (ieology and physical geography, 209. (ieneral desciii)tion. •J15. The coa'^t, 215. New Westmiuster, 21 'I'otal value of imports into IJritish Columbia during 1801, 1802, and lSO.3, 217. Shipping and cn-^toni returns, 218. .loiu'iiey from Doughs to Ciir'd)oo, 224. Pass from the coast to the northern niiiies, 235. The niii'.es of 15ritish Columbia, 240. Agri- cultural resources of the colony, 2SU. Aninmis and vegetables, 297. The first legislative council, .".22. Public expenditure of the j'.riti^h Columbian < Jovermnent in I SO,'!, ,31 o. (Comparative statement of revenue from 1859-lSO:!, 320. Check given to immigration by the re- strictive policy of the Colonial (Jovernment and the Hudson's liay Comi)ai)y, 320. ile(l-:apeisin as to land ill the colony, 329. 3;i0. Tes- timony of the grand jury of the colony as to the doings of the 1 ind oliiee, 332. Tlie negro element, 38S. Religion iu the cohmy, 418. The Indians of Rritish Coluinliia, 423 Comiaken,A'anconvcr Island, 4(). Farm- ing land in, 185 Common school system, tlie, about to be introduced into Vancouver Island, 84 Comox Valley, agricultural district of, 49. Fxteiit of farming land at, 1>7 Comstoek gold lead at Wiishoe, the, 155 o o -i 5G4 INDEX. CON Congrcgationulists, the, in Victoria, 83 Conifers of Vancouver Itiiund and liritish Coluinhia, 305 Conk, Captain, his reconnaissance of the coast in the North Pacific, .IB, 57. His opinion of De Fiica's story, 57. Coose Hay, coal of, 142 Cop|)er, lodes of, at Koskeenio, 50. Copper mines in Vancouver Island, 151, Queen Charlotte Island mines, 151, 15i. Inspection of a vein of copper in Vancouver, 152. Want of capital to develope this source of wealth, 153 Coquahalla, diggings at, 241 Cortez silver mines, 20 Cottonwood, at Lightning Creek, 229 Courtenay River, excellent farming land of the region of tiie, 187. Its junc- tion with the Pnntluch River, 188 Coutts, Miss Bnrdett, her foundation of the diocese of Columbia, 8 1 Cowichan River, gold found in the bars of, 47 Cowiclian, agricultural district of, 46. Width of Cowiclian Valley, 47. Pro- lific character of the soil, 47. Fanii- ing land in, 185 Creation, Indian tradition of the, 450 Crests, Indian, 445 Crime in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 418 Crops, average yield of, in Vancouver Island, 193, 194. Prices of, in Brit- ish Columbia, 290 Customs' revenue at New Westminster, 218 DAIRY produce in British Columbia, 294 Davids<m's Farm, British Columbia, 291 Deer Island, pure copper found at, 153 Deer in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 189, 3Ul De Mers, Bishop, his self-interpreting Bible for the Indians, 475 Diablo, Mount, coals of, 142 Diggings. iSce Gold Mining Diseases of Vancouver Island, 181, 182 Dog-fish caught off British Columbia, 107 Donghis, Governor Sir James and the San Juan dispute, 31, 32. His appoint- ment and leanings, 311, 312. His restrictive policy, 326. His re- marks on Esquimau Harbour as a naval station, 67. Notice of him, 393. His personal aj)pearance, 393. His de- portment, 394. His petty diploma cy, .195. His modes of dealing with the Indians, 460. His adventure with au Indian tribe, 460. His land procla- mations, 528 Douglas pine, value of the, 132. Age and soundness of the, 132, 133 Douglas Lake, 223 Douglas Town, 223. Journey from Douglas to Cariboo, 223 Drake, .Sir Francis, his adventures in the racifie, 53. His journey north, 5'.). Parallel of latitude reached by him, 54. His discovery of New Albion, 54. Dramas of the Indians, 430 Duncan, Mr, his labours among the Indians, 476 I^AGLES, Fish, in Vancouver Island J and liritish Columbia, 301 East, trade with the, coveted by west- ern natives from remote antiquity, 330, 337. Effect of the discovery of the route by the Cape of Good Hope, 339. The discovery of America, the result of the search for .; short route to the East, 339. Object of the search for the North-M'est Passigi: an I why a failure, 340, 341. 1 roposed inler- oceanic railway, 335, et seq. Eggs, price of, in Vancouver Island, 197 Elks in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 189, 300 Emigrants, inviting districts in Van- couver Viland for, 189. Extent of the troubles to be anticipated from the Indians, 190. Inducement to emigration to Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 493. Classes en- couraged to emigrate, 493. Those not wanted, 495. Openings for re- spectable women, 496. The dance round a bonnet, 497. Cautions to emigrants, 498. Rates of wages, 499. Prices, 500. Routes to the colo- nies, 502. Hints as to the choice of a vessel and outfit, 505. The Iri.sh in America, 513. Importance ot the subject of emigration, 514. Extracts from Messrs. Silvers' pamphlet re- specting emigrants, 520 ' England of the Pacific,' the, 39 Esmeralda silver mines, 26 Esquimau, harbour of, 43. Extent and depth of, 43, 44. Governor Douglas's remarks on its unequalled superi- LNDKA. I) bo letty diplomacy, Ifaling with the ▼eiiture with uii [is land produ- the, 132. 132, 133 Ago Journey from >23 .dventiires iu the rney north, .03. cacht'd by him, )f New Albion, ,430 )urs among the ancouver Island nbia, 301 ovcted by wcst- emote antiquity, the discovery of e of Good Hope, of America, the for ,\ short route jeot of the search 'ass-ige anl why 1 roposetl inier- , et seq. mcouver Island, and and Britisli istricts in Van- 89. Extent of intieipated from Inducement to uver Island and 93. Classes en- te, 493. Those )peninp;s for re- 96. The dance 17. Cautions to lates of wages, utes to the colo- to the choice of 505. The Irish iiiportance ot the 514. Extracts s' pamphlet re- 521) c,' the, 39 26 43. Extent and vernor Douglas's quailed superi- FAL ority, 67. Its value to the city of \'ict(>rin anil as a naval station, 127. 'J'he harbour (hies, .12."). Exports of fiold from tiu' port of Victoria froiu I Sort to 1)^C.4, l(l!t. I'lifriisli niid American goods for six months end- ing December 1863, 112. To for- eign ports during October 1864, 113. 17 ALL of man, correspondence be- tween the Scriptural account of tiie, and the traditions of the Indians of the Uocky Mountains, 4.').5 Farming capabilities of X'ancouver Is- land and of British Columbia. See Agriculture Ferns, roots of, for feeding hogs, 196. JVIonster ferns of Vancouver Island, 48 Ferrela, his expedition in the North Pacific, ;)2 Fisheries of Vancouver Island and Br i- tish Columbia, 121, lti3. Herrings, 163. Iloolakans, 163. Salmon, 16,'). Trout, 167. Sturgeon, 167. Halibut, 167. Smelt, 167. Haddock, whiting, and dog-fish, 167. Sea perch, rock, &e,, 168. Cod, 168. Seal and whales, 168. Morse or walrus, 169. Suit- ability of Vancouver Island for an export trade in fish, 170. Fisheries on the Atlantic coast, 170, 171 Flat- head Indians, 441 Flattery, Cape, .'J7 Flood, Jndian tradition of the, 4.54 Fh.ra of Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 304 ' Flutter-wheels,' use of, in gold mining, 276 Foley, Mr., his account of the gold re- gion of Sookc river, 157 Forbes, Dr. R. N., his observations on the geological structure of Vancouver Island, 41. His register of the weather in 18.')0, 177 Fortune telling among the Indians, 446. Foxes on Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 298 Francisco, San, foundation and growth of the city of, 14. Exports, 15. Dis- covery of gold, 15, 16. General Sut- ter's mill, 16. Californian life in 1849, 17. Rowdyism and the Vigilance Committee, 17, 19. Destruction of the city six times by fire, 19. Pre- sent condition of it, 20. Judge Me Almond, 20. Progress of the city, 21. The mint, 22. Chinamen in OLA iTect r'" the •o ui ph the < siunption |)r. Rattray's San Francisco, 24. high taritf in San Fran trade of Victoria, 12 1. of coal in, 142, 145. statement respecting the imports of coal into, 143. One of the liead- qiiartersofthe North Pacific whalers, I (>'.) Fraser River, discovery of gold at. ()4. The rush from California, 64, 65. The monthly license granted to miners, 6(5, Description of the cotiii- try drained by the river, 66. Heturn of some of the speculators to Cali- fornia, 69. Settlements on the bars between Hope and Vale, 69. The new route via Douglas, and its hanl- sliips, 69, 70. Yield of gold on the Fraser for the first four months, 72. Gold found on the forks of the Ques- n 'lie, 74, Sand bars at the mouth of the river, 216. Scenery ascending the river, 216. The Lower Fraser, 221, 222, Gold-diggings north-west of the Fraser River, 262, Farming on the Upper Fraser, 2'.tl. Abun- dance of salmon found in the, 165. Trout foimd in the Lower Eraser, 167. Sturgeons caught in it, 167. Seal at the mouth of the river, 168. Freshets of the river, and coolness caused by them, 176 French, the, in Victoria, 80 Friendly Cove, 57 Fruit of British Columbia, 293. Wild fruit of Vancouver Island, 47, 48, 186 Fuca, Juan de, story of, and of his imagined discovery of a m)rth-east pa.ssage, 54. Captain Cook's opinion of the story, 57 Fuca Straits, 40. Survey of, by Captain Vancouver, 53. Anthracite coal of, 142 n AMBLE, Fort, prosperity of the vJ saw-mills of, 136 Gambling among the Indians, 444 Gas-works in Victoria, 85 Gaspy, in Canada, restrictions on ex- ports from, 92 note Geological structure of Vancouver Is- land, 41. Of British Columbia, 209 Georgia, Gulf of, islands of the, 45. Minerals found in these islands, 45. Numbers of whales in the Gulf, 168 Germans, the, in Victoria, 80 Glacial phenomena, records of, in Van- :i(jO INUliX. Mil, ciiiivir I"laii(1, iJ, l.'J. (ilacicr tunnel III ar Kiiiglit's Ciiiial, T.W, (i(.l'l, (liM'dvcry of, ill <'iilir<)i'iiia, If) Ki. Miniiiu' opiratioiis, 'Jii, Uii'lics of ( )n ^'(iii, L's. (jidil-lR'ariiifj; rocks iicar South llivir, 40. (ioM loiiiid ill tliu liars ut' Cow iciiaii llivcr, -17. Discovery of tlie )prccious im-ial in IJritisli ('oiiiml)ia ill |s:)S, (M. 'I'lii; nisli to till' Trascr Uivcr, d I, (iri. \\M of ;;ol>l on tliis river tor the lirst lour nioiitlis, 72. I'.xports of gold from \ictoria from IS.'iH to JHOl, Kill. (iold iiiiniiipf ill \'nn- coiivcr Island, l.Vt. 'I'la' cxijitiiicc of Hujd known since ISJO, I,') I. The Hudson's iJay Company's iiiIirts in (ineeii Charlotte l.sland, l.'J4. The Goidsti'i'ani Mi.u'^inns' near Victoria, 155. I'ormaiion of coin|ianies to work till! mines, l.'>"). (iovernor Kennedy's vijjjorons measures for the exploration of the colony, l."),"). The discovery of gold on I he banks of tho Sooke River, \'iC>. General cha- racter of tlie country from tlu! har- bour to the canon, l.")7. Hiehness of tlio Si;oke district. ITiS-liU). Dig- gings on llie east side of Leech lUver, \('r2. tiold found at .Jordan lliver. \&2. Diggin-zs at Mope, MO. At l''()rt Yale, 241. .\t Siinilkameen, OKanigan, and Rock Creek, 2il, At Traiii|Mill" and North Rivers, and Kamaloops Lake, 24.'1. At Qnes- nelle River and Antler River, 243. Cariboo, 245. Tho Artesian (Jold Milling Company Limited, 247. Re- markable instanecs of success, 248. Lowliee Creek, 24!>. Shuswap dig- gings, 252. The Kootanie district, 253. Diggings north-west of the l''raser River, 2()2. Mining laws of the colony, 2t'i3 (and src al>o Ap- pendix). Description of the [irocess of mining, 2()r>. I'ssentials for carry- ing on mining operations success- fully, 2f)G. The art of ' prospect- ing,' 207. Use of the ' rocker.' 208. Hydraulic mining, 270. ' Water companies,' 273. The ' flutter- wheel,' 274. Turning a river out of its bed, 274. ' Ground sluicing,' 274, Tunnelling, 270. Quartz mining, 270. Gold discoveries east of the Rocky Mmmtains, .'iOl. Slang in vogue at the diggings, 415. Kindheartedness of tlie miners, 418. Their ten comnuuulments, IIOR 418. RuieH and rcgiilationn for working gold mines, ,').'|.'l 55'.» (J rain, prices of, in N'aiiconver Island, 1!I7 (ii'aiiite of \'aiic(. liver Island, 4'1 GrasHd of N'aiiconver IhIuihI and Ilri- li^h ( 'uliimbia. ;io5 Grasshoppers, Indian mode of catching, lor food, 44S <!ra/ing in N'aneonvcr lolaiid, I'.lO ' (iroiind sluicing' in gold mining, 27)i HADDOCK caught off Rritish Co- lumbia. 107 llaliiiut, caught round the coast, 107. I'iiiormous si/e of some of them, 107 Ilambiirg, its flourishing condition aa a free jiort, 1(2 Hams price of, in Vancouver Island, 11)8 Hare, the, unknown ill Vancouver Island, but inhabiting liritish Coliiinbia, .'tUO 'Harewood Coal Mining Company,' formation of the, 149 Harvey, General, visit at San Juan, .'io Harrison Lake, 223. River, its cim- flueiice uiilitiie I'raser, 2J3 Hay, price of, in \'aiicouver Island, 197 ILijnes. .Mr., his dispatch respecting the Kootanie diggings, •j5.'1 Ilealtli, tliecliniate of Vancouver Island in loiuiection with, l^^l lleci ta, Rriino, his ex|.edition to dis- cover a north-east passage, 50 Heraldry, system of, among the Indians, 444 Herrings on the coast of Vancouver Island, 103 Hills, Hisliop, his appeal for thirteen additional clergy and live catecliists, 82 iiolc.s. His awkward predicament with the Indians, 475 Hindoos, commerce of the ancient, 337 Hogs, in Vancouver Island, 190. Of IJritish Columbia. 291 Hongkong, as a free port, 93 Honolulu, one of the head-quarters of the North Paeiflc whalers, 109 Hoolakans, shoals of, in the rivers of Vancouver l>land, 103. Oil pressed from them, 104. Used by the natives as torches, 105 Hope, town of, 230, Site of, 231. Dig- gings at, 240 Hops produced in Vancouver Island, 194 Horses in ^'ancollvcr Island, 195. Na- iM>i:.\. .')()" n7,'iil;iti(>ns for iiiic()itvt.-r hliiiiil. Isliti'l, »:» I.sIiiikI and liri- loili' of catching, Isliinil, I'.lfi Id mining, 270 oil' IJritisli (,'()- tlic roast, l(J7. lie ot'tlu'iii, l(i7 ng cunditiou aa :inc'oiivir Island, rancoiivcr Island, li ('(diiiiibia, .'lOO ling (.'oiiipanj-,' '.( t at San Juan, llivcr, its con- ser, -JJ.-l iivi rlslan<l, U»7 patch respecting ifrs, -j.j.'l V'ancouver Island Ksi xpedition to dis- lassagi', ')C) nong the Indians, 5t of Vancouver peal for thirteen id live catechists, vard predicament '5 [ the ancient, 337 Island, 196. Of 91 )()rt, 93 ' head-quarters of halers, Hi'J , in the riv«rs of 1G3. Oil pressed >ed by the natives site of, 231. Dig. ancouver Island, Island, 195. Na- I iiri) tivc liorscHlV' 'in the Satid« ich Fslaiid«, 1 '.»."). Of llr.tish CoUiinbia. J'.ct IIiiiUhii'n Day < i nipanv, post of the, at I'ort ilupcir, A'K nlitain a grant of N'aiuouvir l>l.iiid from (iovernuicnt, .OH, y.t. 'I'lu-ii- nmnoiioly iind ifN result on the coliiiisatiiiu of tiic i^!and, 02. Mr. I.ahoiii'lii re and tiic pru-ipcrily <>t V'aiu'oiivc Island, O'l. Impediments caused l>y ilie ri'Siricduiis of the Company, (i'.». Its gold-mining ojiera- tioiis in (juoen Charlotte island, l.'')4. Si'ttlenniif of its i|uarrils with tliu Montreal I Noi'ih-Wist Comi'any, •J(»S. 'I'ra' if the Company till Ks.V**, 'JiiM, iiii'.i. its Tort at l.oniiley on the Lower Fraser, L'2'J. (J rant of Vancouver Island to it, .'Uo. Check given to immigration hy the restric- tive policy of the (iovernment in I8j8, ;(;!('.. (Question of the adjust- ment of the right of the Hudson's Hay Company in the event of the conbtruitu)n of an interoceanic rail- way, 35(). Discussion in the House of < 'ommons on the rights of the Company, 371 lIunil)ol(lt silver mines, 2<) IlMiah Indians, their thefts, 458 Hydraulic mining, for gold, 270 IMMKi RANTS, simplicity of some of the new comers, .'iOli Imiiorts, amount of, into the juirt of \ictoria in l8fil-IMn;j, l(J(; Tnranlations of the Indians, 439 Indian burying places, :i:i() Indians, troubles to be ap[)rehended from, by intending einitrrants to \'an- couver Island, 19i). Those of ^'an- couver Island and 15riiish Col- umbia, 4:2.3. Theories as to their origin. 42.3. Territorial limits of the tribes, 42S. Their ideas of rank, 4'29. Festive ceremonies, 43(t. Their ' pot- latch,' 430. Dranuitlc exhibitions, 432. The mysteries of ' Khuiiuilla,' 433. Medicine-men and their atrocities, 434-430. Cannibals, 430. Kducation oftlie 'allied,' 437. Medical men, 438. Incantations, 439. Witchcraft, 440. Indian ideas of personal beauty, 441. Flattening of the liead, 441. M omen, 44 2. Tattooing, 442. Arms, 443. An Indian village, 443. Gamb- ling, 444. Indian lieraldry, 444. For- tune-telling, 440. Marriages, 440. Eurial, 447. Food, 448. Catching KfN grnsNliopperN, 44^^. Ilnin-inaking, 4.') I. Indian tradiiioii of the creation, 4J0. Ami ot' the tall of nuin, I.M. Indian idea of the ctmse of ihniider and lightning, 4.')0. Their iileas of u future si.ile, 4.")7. Indian thieves, 4.18. Severe nu'usuren uilo[)ted aj;ain^t thiiu. l.'If. Tlu-ir luiis-acres of uiiites, 402. Interin eiiu' wars among ilu m.47i>. Scalping. 47o. I'ro- titu'iou among them, 471. Uonuiii Catholic missions, and tlieir intluencu among the Indians, 472, 473. The sif;n of the cross, 472 174. Indian sellish motives in religion, 47t'i. .Mr. Duncan's labours, 4 76. Hind- rtmcis to missionary works, •>78. The new Christian settlement at Metlakatlali, 4S3. Ingenuity of the Indians, 484. Iiulusirial arts and missions, 4sj. Threatemd extinction of the Indians, 487 Indies, NN'est, approacli to the ' \'irgin Group,' 3. Columbus's discoveries, 3, 4. The 'Ca:ibes' oftlu-, 4 Inn, an, on tlie road to Cariboo, 220 Insanity in the colonies, 41 o. (irog, 41 1, The religious nuiniac, 41 1 Insects of \ancouver Island and Brit- ish Columbia, 303 Irish, the, in America, .')12 lr(m nmnufactiires of N'ictoria, t^.'». ."Magnetic iron ore, fouiul in \'an- couver Island, l.")3 Isinglass nuide from tlie bladder of the sturgeoj, 107 TAPAX, advantages to be derived by \'ictoria in opening uf a trade « ilh, 123 Jew, the ' skedaddled,' 409 Jews, their synairogue in Victoria, 83 Johnstom-'s Straits, 49, .")8 .lordan Kiver, gold found at, 102 Joint stock companies in Victoria, S.'i, 80 Jtum, San, visit to the island of, 29. Tiie dithculty between F.ngland and the I'uited States in 1859, 29-38 KAMA LOOPS Lake, diggings at, 243 Karus, Lake, character of the land near, 189 Kayo(iiU)t, district of, 50 Kendrick, Captain, his alleged dis- covery of the channel sejiarating 508 INDEX. KEN Vancouver Island from the main land, 57 Kcniit'dy, Governor, his vigorous mea- sures for the exploration of Vancou- ver Island, \^>!}. His reception in Vaneouver Island, .'522. Chinese address to liiui, .'J8G. Indian address to him, 4G8 note. King George II I. 's Archipelago, dis- covery of a portion of, .56 KluquoUa, Indian mysteries of, 433 Kootanie diggings, the, 2r)2. Mr. Haynes's dispatch respecting the, 253. Report hy Mr. Colonial Sec- retary Birch, 255. Farming land in the, 2!)() Kootanie Indians, the, 257 Koskeemo sound, 49. Country from Cape Scott to, 50. Coal seams at, 151 I" A DIES' College in Victoria, 84. -J American, 397 J-a Ilache Lake, 227 Lan)alchas Indians, their rohberies, 409 Langley, on the Lower Fraser, 221. Coal seams at, 151. The Hudson's Bay Company's Fort at, 221. Farm- ing land at, 286 Lard, price of, in Vancouver Island, 198 liCeeh river, silver found at, 158. Dig- gings on the cast side of the, 162 liignitic beds at Burrard's inlet and Bellingham Bay, 41 Lightning-bugs, at Panama, 10 Lilloet, 225, 226. Meadows at Port Pemberton, 286 Limestone in Vancouver Island, 154 Lock, Michael, his narrative of Juan de Fuca's imagined discovery of a north-east passage, 54 Lowhee Creek, gold diggings of, 249, 2.')1 Lytton, town of, 2.13 MACKENZIE, Sir Alexander, his explorations in British Columbia, 208 Mammoth-trees of California, 24 Manufactories in Victoria, 85 Marble, blue, found on the coast of Vaneouver I.^land, 154 Marriages among the Indians, 446 Martens in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 297 Mayne, Commander, R.N., liis explo- Ni:r, rations of part of Vancouver Island, 187 Mc .\ linond, Judge, of San Francisco, 20 McNeil Fort, coal mines at, 151 Meares, Cai)tain, his discovery of the channel separating Vancouver Is- land from the main land, 57 Medicine-men of the Indians and their doctrines, 434, 435. Their ummmery of rain-making, 449. Their opposi- tion to missionary work, 479 Metallic riches of California and British Columbia, 24, 25 Metchosin, agricultural settlement of, 4.3, 185 Methodists, the, in Victoria, 83 Mexico, objects of the French in, 13. The priests of, 13. The trade of Victoria with. 111 Milk, price of, in Vancouver Island, 198 Mining, gold. See Gold mining Mining laws of the colony, 263 (and A ppendix) Mink, the, in Vaneouver Island and British Columbia, 297 Moffat, Mr. Hamilton, his exploration of \'ancouver Island, from Ni.iipkish Kiver to Nootka Sound, 188 Morse or walrus fishing grounds in the Nortii Pacific, 169 Mountains between Cape Scott and Koskeemo Sound, 50 Mules in British Columbia, 293 Murchison, Sir Robert, his prediction respecting Australia and Cariboo, 246 NANAIMO,town and harbour of, 48 Salt springs of, 48. Coal mines of, 41, 48, 141, 142. The country surrounding Nanaimo, 49. Thick- ness of the coal seams, 144. Con- venience of the harbour for shipping coal, 144. The \'ancouver Island Coal Mining and Lead Company and its profits, 145. Total quantity shippeil from Nanaimo up to Decem- ber 1863, 145. Salt springs at, 169, Character of the land around, 186. Address of the* Indians of, to Go- vernor Kennedy, 468, note Nanoose river, farming land in the valley of the, 187 Napoleon HI., his designs in relation to Mexico and trade in the Pacific, 3 67 Negroes, civil disabilities of the, in LVUEX. oGl) ncouver Island, ,n Francisco, 20 I at, 151 iscovery of the Vancouver Is- nd, 57 dians and their heir mummery Their opposi- rk, 479 'alifornia and 25 settlement of, )ria, 83 French in, 13. Tlie trade of jouver Island, [ mining >ny, 263 (and ?r Island and is exploration rom l><i.iipkish 1, 188 grounds in the 3e Scott and ia, 293 his prediction and Cariboo, liarhour of, 48 Coal mines The country 49. Thick- s, 144. Con- ir for shipping 3ouvcr Island Company and Ota) quantity up to Decern - n-ings at, 1G9. around, 186. is of, to Go- note land in the ns in relation in the Pacific, ;s of the, in Nl-V California, 381. Those in Van- couver Island, 388. Ditferences between negroes and the whites, 388 Nevada, quartz miits and crushing power in, 27 Kewfoundlatid, fisheries of, 170 Nootka Sound, 50 Nootka Island, 50, 51. The present number of tiie Nootka Indians, 51 North-east passage, Juan de Fuca's imagined discovery of a, 54. Expe- dition of Juan de Perez, 55 North River, diggings at, 243 North wfst passage, object of the search for the, and why a failure, 310, 341 OATS, price of, in Vancouver Island, 197 Odessa, flourishing trade of, 92 Ofiicials, defalcations of, in Vancouver Island, 399 Oil extracted from the hoolakan fish, 164. Indianinethod of obtaining it, 1 64, That extracted by them from the dog-fish, 167, 168 OKanagan, Lake, abundance of trout in. 167. Diggings in the tributaries of, 242. OKanngan district, farming land at, 2.n, 288, 289 Orchards in Vancouver Island, 199, In Oregon, 199 Oregon, gold mines of, 28. The mon- ster fruit of, 28, 199. The Oregon boundary, 37. Exports from Victoria to, in October 1864,115. Population of, in 1850 and at present, 126, 127. Orford, Cape, discovery of, 53 Otters in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 298 Outfit of emigrants, 506 Oxen, demand for, in Vancouver Island, 196 pACIFIC OCEAN, discovery of the, I'anama, isthmus of, 7. Railway on the, 7» 9. Scenes on the, 8. Town of, 9. Islands in the bay of, 10. Parmeter Gold Mining Company, for- mation of the, 155 Partridges in the interior of Vancouver Island, 189 Pavilion Mountain, 226. Road over the, 233. Experience of fanning north of the, 286, 287 VVS Pears, monster, of Oregon, 2S Peas, price of, in Vancouver Island, 198 Pea vine silver mines, 26 Pelley, Sir J. II., obtains a grant of Vancouver Island for the Hudson's Bay Company, 58, 59 Peniherton, Mr., his explorations in \'aneouver Island in 1857, 46 Pi-rcli, sea, 168 Perez, Juan de, his expedition to dis- cover the north-wt'st passage, 55. His discovery of Queen Charlotte's Island, 56 Perron, M. du, his comparison between the timber of the Douglas pine and spars from Riga, 13.3 Petra, commerce of, 339 Pico, Island of, 2 Pilot-fish, 7 Political statistics of Vancouver Island, 310 Pork, fondness of the Chinese and mining population for, 19(). Price of, in Vancouver Island, 198 Portland, slate of Oregon, 28 Ports, free, the principal ones in the world, 91. Victoria as a free port, 91 Postal communication with England, necessity for direct, 507 Potatoes grown in British Columbia, 292 ' Potlatch,' the. of the Indians, 430 Prairie, the Grand, 289. Prairies at Siunass and Chilukweyuk, 222. Of OKanagan, 231 Prtei[)iee, the, on the road north, 236 Presbyterians, the, in Victoria, 83. In New Westminster, 221 Preset iptions, medical, among the In- dians, 438 Prev6st, Captain, of II. M. S. ' Satellite, 31 Prices at Cariboo in November 1864, 2.)2. Of crops in British Columbia, 290. In Vancouver Island and Brit- ish Columbia, 500 Prince Edward's Island, heavy customs' duties at, 92 ' Prospecting ' for gold, the art of, 267 Provisions, prices of, in Vancouver Island, 198 Puget Soimd, saw-mills at, 135, 136 Puma, the, in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 298 Puntlueh River, the, 188. Its junction with the Courtenay River, 188 570 INDEX. QUA Ql'ADKA, Francesco de la Bodegay, his expedition to discover a north- west pa/isiige, !)(■). His discovery of a portion of King (Jeorge lll.'s Archi|)elago, SO Qiianiielian, Vancouver Ishind, 4(5. Farming land in, 185 Quartz mining, 276. Primitive expe- dients for crushing quartz, 277. Steam power, 278 Quatsino Inlet, coal and other minerals of, 41) Quatsino Bay, 50 Queen ( "harlotte's Sound, navigated by Juan de Fuca, ^)!) Queen Charlotte's Island, discovery of, oO. The copper mine at, 151. lle- jiort of a mining engineer on tiic mine, 152. The Hudson's Bay Com- ]iany's gold mines in, 154 Quesnelle, town of, 228 Quesnelle River, 228. Gold mines discovered at the forks of, 74, 243 RABBITS unknown in Vancouver Island, but inhabiting British Columbia, .300. Race Rocks, 43 Race, varieties of the human, repre- sented in \'ictoria, •i78. Tscliudi's classification of human hybrids, .'570. Civil disabilities of Chinese and Ne- groes in California, 381. Racoons in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 297. Rae, Dr., his route for a line of tele- graph from Red River to the Pacific, .•555. Railway, proposed interoceanic, 335. The scheme slow but sure, 335, 33G. Ftlbrts of the Americans, 342. Would such a line pay ? 34:1. The shortest route to Australia and China, 343, 344. The political utility of the scheme, 345. The most eligible tract of country for laying down the line, 347. Value of the valley of the St. Laurence, 348. Central position of Red River Settlement, 350. Road via St. Paul's, 350, 351. Al- ledged difficulties of extending the line from Fort Garry to Canada, 351. Urgency of an emigrant route, 352. The course it should take from Lake Superior, 353. Question of adjust- ment of the rights of the Hudson's SAL Bay Company, 355. Passes of the Rocky Mountains, 362. Viscount Milton's account, 304 Rain-making, mummery of, by the Indian medicine-men, 449 Rain in Vancouver Island, 179 Ba[ieseed oil from Japan, 124 Rats in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 300 Rattray, Dr., his opinion as to the pro- per site for the Pacific Naval Sani- tarium, 129. His statement respecting the imports of coal into San Fran- cisco, 143. His register of the weather in 18G0-61, 177. His table of the yield of crops in Vancouver Island, 104 Red River Settlement, its central posi- tion for the proposed interoceanic railway, 350, 351. Telegraph being laid down from Red River to the Pacific, 3")C. Fertility of the land near Red River, 359. MenKrial of tlie people of Red River Settlement to the British and Canadian Govern- ments, 375. Religion, state of, in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 417. Reli- gious beliefs of the Indians, 457. Re- ligious bodies in Victoria, 81 Reptiles of Vancouver Island and Biitish Columbia, 303 Reese River, silver mines of, 2G. Popu- lation of the district, 27 Roads in Vancouver Island, 204. Roundabout road to Cariboo, 233, 234 Rock Creek, diggings at, 242 Rock found off Victoria, 1G8 Rocker, use of the, in gold mining ope- rations, 267 Rocky Mountains, gold mining on the eastern slopes of the, 361. Passes of the, 302. Viscount Milton's account, 3G3. Railway through the Rocky JMountaius, 365 Rupert, Fort, 49 Russia, strides of, in the North Pacific, 306 SAANICH Peninsula, 45. Farms in the, 185 Sacramento, trip to, 22. The state legis- lature in session, 22. Meeting of the ' Democratic Convention,' 23. Pre- sent state of the town, 23, 24. China- men in, 24. Taxation at, 24. Inun- dation of the city of, 177 Salmon, introduction of, into Australia, 125. In the rivers of Vancouver Passes of tlio 362. Viscount ry of, by the , 449 nd, 179 an, 124 ,nd and British m as to the pro- tic Naval Sani- nient respeeting into San Fran- e^ister of the 177. His table > in Vancouver its central post- ed interoceanic IVlcgraph being I Kiver to the lity of the land Meniwrial of liver Settlement nadian Govern- incouver Island a, 417. Keli- idians, 457. Ile- toria, 81 n* Ibland and 3 es of, 2G. Popu- 27 1- Island, 204. Cariboo, 233, 234 at, 242 a, 1G8 ;old mining ope- 1 mining on the le, 36 1 . Passes icount Milton's lilway through IS, 365 le North Pacific, la, 45. Farms The state legis- , Meeting of the ntion,' 23. Pre- Chlna- Inun- INDEX. 571 1,23,24. m at, 24 ,177 )f, into Australia, s of Vancouver SAL Island, 165. Crcat nnnibes found dead in the Columbia River, 106. Tlie hook-bill, spring, and hump- backs, 165, 166. Indian revenue ob- tained from the sale of salmon, 166. I^uerative trade to be made in salmon, 166. Salmon River, farming land at, 188. Salt Springs of Salt Spring Island, 48. Of Naiiainio, 48. On Admiralty Island and at Nanaimo, 169. Salt Spring Island, 48. Brine Springs of, 48. Sanitarium, the proposed, for invalided nara men, in the Pacific, 128. Dr. Rattray's opinion as to its proper site, 129 Sandstone of excellent quality found on Vancouver Island, 154 Sandwich Islands, table of exports from Victoria to, in Octi.ber 1864, 114. Native liorsesfrom the, in Vancouver Island, !95 Sansum Narrows, copper mines at, 48 Saskatchewan River district, its adapt- ability for colonisation, 359. IVIineral riches of the country, 360, Gold in the river, 361 Sa«-mills in Victoria, 121. At Puget Sound, 136 Scalping among the Indians, 470 Schools and Colleges in Victoria, 84, Schools in New Westminster, 220 Scotch, the, in Victoria, 80 Scott, Cape, 49 Seals found at the mouth of the Fraser Kiver, 168 Seaton, Lake, 225 Semiliamo, city of, 66 Septaria, nodules of, 42 Sewage of Victoria. 87 Sharks in the harbour Oi Carthagena, 7. Their fondness for white men, 7 Shawingan, Vancouver Island, 46. Farming land at, 185 Sheep, breed of, in Vancouver Island, 195. In British Columbia, 294. Mountain sheep in British Columbia, 301 Shells, list of, found on the coast of Vancouver Island, 305 Shipbuilding in Victoria, 121 Shuswap diggings, the, 252. Two routes to the, 238 Silver mountains, 26 Silver, yield of the mines of, at Washoe, 26. Mills in the state of Nevada, 27. swi At Hope di^ 241 Similkanieen, diggings at, 242. Fi-rm- ing land in the, 288, 289 Sitka, trade of Victoria with, 111. Table of exports from Victoria to Sitka, in October 1864, 113. \'ancouver Island coal in demand at, 149 Skunk, the, in Vanco\iver Island and British Columbia. 297 Sluicing, method of, in gold-mining operations, 269 Smelts caught in the Fraser river, 167 Society, in Victoria, 3118. The un- married couple, 400. Adventures of widows, 401. Extraordinary wed- ding scene, 402. Young colonists, 406. The 'Skedaddler,' 409. The social pyramid reversed, 412. Ox- ford and Cambridge men roughing it, 413, Character of society in the interior, 414. Slang in vogue among miners, 415. State of religion, 417 Soils, character of the, of X'ancouver Island, 182. Of British Columbia, 284 Somenop, Vancouver Island, 46. Farm- ing land in, 185 Sooke, agricultural settlement of, 43, Sooke River, discovery of gold on the banks of the, 156. Evidence of the richness of the district, 156-1()0. Agricultural land at, 185. Panthers at, 29S South River, 46 Sowing, times of, in Vancouver Island, 202 Spain, her discoveries in the Pacific, 52 Squirrels, in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 300 Stags in Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 300 Steamers, high-pressure, on the Eraser river, 231,232. Prodigal iiiditlVrence of American steam-boat men to human life, 232 Sdckeen River, pure copper found at, 1 53 Stock used in Vancouver Island, 195. Cattle, sheep, and horses, 195 Sturgeon, found in the rivers and lakes of British Columbia, 16/. Immense size of the fish, 167. Caviare, 167 Sumallow Valley, farming land in the, 288 Suniass, prairies at, 222, 286 Summer Bay, 45 Summer in Vancouver Island, 181. The Indiaii .summer, 181 Swift River, 229 572 LNDEX. TAB rPABOGA, island of, 10 Tiiilmor in the "Wilderness, commerce (if, 338 Tiiylor, Dr. I/iclilin, his statement re- si)ecting farming in British Columbia, 'J 91 Telmantepec, Gulf of, 12 IVn Comniandments, the miners', 418 I'erceira, island of, 2 Thomas, St., island of, 3. Harbour and town of, 4. 'J'rade of, 5. Inhabitants of, 5. Freedom of its port, 92 Timber of the Somenos plains, 40. Of South River, 40. Between Cape Scott and Koskeenio, 50. At IJarelay Sound, .51. Great demand for tim- ber in, 122. Timber trade of Van- couver Island and British Columbia, l.'il. Table of the principal varieties, 131, 132. Value of the Douglas pines, 132. This timber compared with that from Riga, 133. Messrs. Ander- son & Co.'s export trade in timber, 134, 135. Comparative statement of export of lumber, &c., from Alberni Mills during lSG2and 1803, 135. Their trade in sawn timber, 135. Timber trade of other smaller firms, 135. Advantages of Van- couver Island over New IJrunswic'.*. and Canada as regards the timber trade, 137. Saving to owners of saw- mills who build their own ships, 138. Ti.nber more remunerative to the common carrier than gold, 138. Opening for an export trade in rail- way sleepers, 139. Mode of render- ing timber proof against the destruc- tive action of a torrid sun, 139. Prices of spars, masts, &c., in Van- couver Island, 140. Townsend, Port, American town founded at, GO Trnde sufficient for a steamer in the North Pacific, 510. Trades carried on in Victoria, 85. List of trades and professions in Victoria, 89 Tranquille River, diggings at, 243 Trout of Vancouver's Island and British Columbia, 107. Those of Lake OKanagan. 107. Of the Lower Fraser River, 107 Tsehudi. his classification of human hybrids, 379 Tunnelling, in gold mining, 270 Turnips of Biitish Coiumbi;), 292 VAN UNITED STATES, preparations of the, to receive and distribute ea.stern commerce by the construction of an interoceanic railway, 342. Appearance of citizens of the United States in the British Colonies, 397. Care bestowed by the, upon young colonies, 511 Utsalady, saw-mills of, 130 TTALDEZ INLET, 49 Vancouver Island, description of, 39. The 'Enpland of the Pacific,' 39. Straits of Fuca, and first view of Vancouver Island, 40. Vegetation of, 40. Coast-line of, 40. Geological structure of, 41. Records of glacial phenomena in, 42, 43. Har- bour of Esquimau, 43. City and harbour of Victoria, 40. Saanich Peninsula, 45. Sunnner Bay, 45. Agricultural district of Cowiclian, 40. Mr. Peniherton's explorations in 1857, 40. Mr. Brown's despatch, 40. Wild vegetation of Cowiclian, 47. Copper mines at Sansum Nar- rows, 47. Copper mines of Nanainio, 48. Coniox valley, 49. Islands near Cape Scott, 49. Coal of Quatsino Inlet, 49. Koskeenio Sound, 50. Quatsino Bay, 50. Timber between Cape Scott and Koskeenio, 50. Cop- per lodes and quartz veins at Ac- cla, 50. Woody Point. 50. Barclay Sound, 51. The Alberni Canal, 51, Captain Vancouver's description quoted, 52. Discovery of the chan- nel separating Vancouver Island from the main land, 57. The Island first traversed by white men, 58. Grant of it to the Hudson's Bay Company, 58, 59. Terms of the grant, 59-01. Proposed union with British Columbia, as affecting the free port of A'ictoria, 95. Reso- lutions passed by the liCgislature of Vancouver Island respecting the proposed union, 105. Destructive etfect of the monopoly granted to the Company, 02, 03. General resources of Vancouver Island, 131. The timber trade, 131. Coalmines, 141. Copper mines, 151. Magnetic iron ore, 153. Limestone, sandstone, blue marble, and blue clay, 154. Gold, 154 tt seq. Fisheries, 163. Agriculture, INDEX. Oi 3 rcparntions of tul distribute e construction •ailway. 342. of the United 'olonies, 397. , upon young }6 scription of, • the Pacific' id first view of , Vegetation 0. Geological rds of glacial 43. Har- 3. City and 40. Saanich aer Bay, 4.'5. if Cowiclian, explorations yn's despatch, of Cowicliau, Sansum Nar- s of Nanainio, Islands near of Quatsino Sound, 50. fiber between no, 50. Cop- veins at Ac- 50. Barclay •ni Canal, 51, description of the chan- uver Island The Island te men, 58. udson's Bay ernis of the d union with affecting the 95. lleso- cgislature of pecting the Destructive granted to the ^ral resources 131. The il mines, 141. lagnctie iron ndstone, ])lue 54. Gold,! 54 Agriculture, VAN 172. Climate, 174. Total nimiber of acres helonging to Vancouver Island, 1S4. Agricultural districts, 184. Mr. ■Moffat's journey across the Island from Nimpkish River to Nootka Sound, 188. Average yield of crops, 194. Stock, 195. Prices of pro- duce and stock, 197-199. Animals and vegetables of Vancouver Island and British Columbia, 297. Politi- cal statistics of Vancouver Island, 310. Grant of the Island to the Hudson's Bay Company, 310. The germ of Colonial Legislature, 313. Disputes between independent colo- nists and the authorities, 314. The first bill of appropriation, 315. Disproportionate paraphernalia of Government, 316. Sources of colo- nial revenue, 317. Estimates of colonial expenditure for 18G4, 318. Opposition of the Legislature to the proposals of the Duke of Newcastle, 320. Reception of Goveinor Ken- nedy, 322. The question of union between the two colonies. 323. Society in Vancouver Island, 378. Chinese in the Island, 386. The Negro element, 388. Governor Douglas, 393. Defalcations of officials, 399. Religion on the Island, 417. Crime, 418. The Indians of the colony, 423. Land proclama- tions of Sir James Douglas, 528. Vancouver, Captain, his description of Vancouver Island quoted, 51. Sent to adjust a dispute with the Spanish authorities in the Pacific, 57, 58. His survey of the Straits of Fuca and Admiralty Inlet, 58. Roaches 100 miles above Nootka, 58 Vasco, Nunez de Balboa, his discovery of the Pacific Ocean, 52 Vegetables, prices of in New West- minster, 293 Vegetation of Cowichan, 47. Of Vancourer Island and British Colum- bia, 297 Vessels, number and tonnage of, entered at Victoria, in 1801-1863, 108 Vermilion Pass, in the Rocky Moun- tains, 362 Victoria, city at.d harbour of, 44. In- Huence of the discovery of gold in the growth of, 64, 65. Rush from California, 65. Sadden rise in the value of land, 65, 66. The rival cities attempted by the Americans, 66. VIC Unequalled superiority of Victuri.i Harbour, 67. Reaction in Victoria and return of faint-hearted specula- tors to California. 69. Riots of tlie 'rowdies' assembled in the city, 71. Gloomy state of the city, 71. Yield of gold for the first four months, 72. Lowest point of depopulation, in 1858, 73. Cheering news from Ques- nelle, 74. The immigration of 1>62 and disappointment and privation of the inexperienced, 75, 76. Descriji- tion of the city of Victoria as it now is, 77. Population, 77. Beaconliill Park, 77. Walks and drives, 77. Public buildings, 78. The streets and houses, 78. Volunteer firemen, 79. Theatre and drinking saloons, 79. Police barracks, 79. Reading-room and library, 79. Associations for various purposes, 80. Foreigners in the city, 80. Volunteer rifle corp';, 80. The newspaper press, 81. Religi- ous bodies, 81. Miss Burdett Coutts's endowment of the diocese, 81. Col- leges and schools, 84. Manufiictorics and joint stock companies, 85. G;is and water supply, 85,86. The muni- cipal council, 86. Sewage of the city, 86, 87. Want of open spaces, ST. Banks, 87. Augmented value of town property in Victcn-ia, 88. List of trades and professions in Victoria, S9. Victoria regarded as a free port, 9 I. Importance of guarding the ci!y against the introduction of customs' duties, 93. Proposed union with British Columbia as affecting tlie fVoo port arrangement, 95. Comparative prospects of Victoria and New West- minster, 97. Amount of imports into the port of Victoria in 18Gl-18(i:!, 106. Number and tonnage of vessels entered at Victoria in 1861-1863, IdS. Trade of Victoria with the Amerir;ni States on the coast, 110. Its trade with Sitka and M>-xieo, 111. T.iltle of exports of English or .\nierieau goods for the six months ending De- cember 1863, 112, Exports from Victoria to foreign ports during t!ie month of October 1864, 113. Coni- niercial capabilities of Victoria, 1 1 »;, 117. Advantages of direct trade wi ti, 118. Proposal for a depot for Euro- pean goods, 119, 120. Effect of the increasing customs' restrictions of San Francisco upon the tradi- of Victoria, 121. Facilities for return 574 INDEX. VIL carpjocs, 121, 1-23. Saw-mills and fislieries, 121. Ship-biiiidinf? in Vic- toria, 121. Prospective advantages of trade with China and Japan, 122, 12.'J. I'ifFect of the commercial rela- tions of Vancouver Island with other countries on the trade of Victoria, 12.'5. An American view of the pro- spects of Victoria as a probable rival of San Francisco, 126. Other circum- stances bearing on its future as a free port, 126. Its proximity to the har- bour of Esquimau, 127. Tlie proposed sanitarium for invalided naval men, 128. Increasing value of land within fifteen miles of Victoria, 191. The voyage from Victoria to Fraser River, 21 .'i. Facilities of Victoria for becom- ing a vast emporium for Eastern commerce, 33.5. Importance of the proposed interoceanic railway to Vic- toria, 346. Varieties of the human race represented in Victoria, 378. The ultimate effect of this hetero- geneous mixture of types upon the character of the population, 380. White society in the city, 398. Har- bour dues, .525 Villages, Indian, 443 ^'ine, cultivation of the, in California, 22 Volunteer rifle corps in Victoria, 81 WAGES, rates of, in Vancouver Is- land and British Columbia, 499 Washington territory, table of exports from Victoria to, in October 1864, 115. Population of, in 1850, and at present, 126, 127. Coal-fields of, 142 Washoe, silver mines of, 26. Rapidity of the rise of the town of. 27. The Corastock gold lead at, 155 Water-suiiply in Victoria, 86 Wedding scene, an extraordinary, 402 Wellitij,ftonca gigantea, the, of Cali- fornia, 24 ZKA Wesk'vans, in New Westminster, 221. Westminster, New, its pros])i'cts com- pared with those of Victoria, 97. Position of the city of, 216. Com- parative quarterly statement of im- ports into, 217. Shipping returns and customs revenue, 218. Rates of duties of customs now leviable at New Westminster upon goods, &c., imported into British Columbia, 219. Plan of the town, 219. Public build- ings, 219. Places of worship, 220. Schools, 220 Whales in the Gulf of Georgia, 168. Tiie fishing grounds of the Norili Pacific, 168. The Indian mode of capturing the whale, 168 note. Pre- sent rendezvous of North Pacific whalers, 169 Wheat, prices of, in Vancouver Island, 197 Whiting caught off British Columbia, 167 Winds of Vancouver Island, 178 Wild fowl, abundance of, in the forests of Vancouver Island, 189 Wild-Horse Creek diggings, 258 William's Creek, 229. Diggings at Cariboo, 246 William's Lake, paths from, to Cariboo, 235 Witchcraft, Indian belief in, 440 Wolves in Vancouver's Island and Bri- tish Columbia, 300 W^omen, openings for respectable, in tlie colonies, 496. The dance round a bonnet, 497 Woody Point, 50 TTALE, Fort, diggings at, 2-11 Yale, town of, 231 z EALAND, New, trade of Victoria with, 125 LOVDOK rniN'TED nv spottiswoode and co. NEW-STBEET SQUARE RECENT BOOKS OF TRAVELS, ETC. stminstcr, 221. prospects coin- Victoria, 97. )f'. 21(5. Coni- itcmcnt of iiii- ipping rt'turns 218. Uati'sof ow leviable at on pood.s, &c., Columbia, 21!». Public build- ■worsliip, 220. Georf^ia, lf>8. of the Norili ndian mode of 168 note. Piv- North raeific Qcouver Island, itish Columbia, and, 178 if, in the forests 189 ings. 2.58 Diggings at om, to Cariboo, ^f in, 440 Island and Bri- respectable, iu he dance round at, 21 1 id(; of Victoria T^^EITH .TOITXSTOWS GEN JV Glt.MMllCAL DICTION AUY of the 18G I. 1 vol. 8vo, ais. M. cloth ; or 3Gs. Gd. ' Hiiviiif; iispd tlu'oldpililion of this (lengrapliical dictiiiiiary fur many years, and always lound It ler- vicealilc and aroiiratc up to tlic datu at wliich it npiifarcd, we Iwive lonj,' wished to see it lirought up to tlie premiit time, and tlicrcforc lieartily welcome tliis edition eorn'eted to August i*!4. 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