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V LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, LIMITED. 1889. n : \ 1 1 i i *■ ■■^^*^ J (# i \* « i i " i 'knpm lf m ^fiii0ifi^gm m » m ' i ^ 'i u » w. i mil»H ' r " - ■imtmmtmMA ^ A TWO. MONTHS' TOUR IN CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. i'l> % We left London on Friday, 30th August, 1889, at two p.m., by London and North- Western Railway, in a comfortable front coup^ — bright, sunny afternoon — and we saw energetic harvest operations going on all along the line, and arrived at Liverpool at 6.45. Luckily, quarters had been secured for us at North- Western Hotel. Every room was engaged, much to the annoyance and vexation of many who were obliged to B Pacific N. W. History Dspt, 40(135 PRO^'NCIAL. LIBRARY VICTORIA, B. C. ~---r^fis.:jn-rawO!T-««*"««»'«*- ' I ! TIVO MONTHS' TOUR IN I I put up with very second-rate accommoda- tion, and who will in future remember the necessity of securing rooms for the night prior to the departure of the mail steamer. All was bustle and confusion at the hotel. Such crowds of people, and such piles of luggage ! It is, indeed, a sight to see Ame- rican ladies returning home after ' doing ' Europe — such huge boxes, five and six feet long, and three to four feet deep, and many of them. I was in light marching order — ' two moderate-sized portmanteaus and dress- ing-bag. The head porter of the hotel labelled them and gave me a voucher pro- mising safe delivery in my cabin, where I found them when I went on board the Cunard steamer Etruria at twelve o'clock. It is, indeed, an exciting scene to see 620 ►*'«■. CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. 3 passengers crowding on board ship, and the overwhelming amount of luggage taken home by the Americans. Luckily for me, I was free from anxiety, and could look on with complacency at the worry and excitement of so many hundreds stowing thems'^lves and their worldly goods away. And then came the anxiety of getting comfortaole seats at table. Luckily the captain invited me to sit at his table at the second dinner, served at seven o'clock. The 620 were all saloon passengers, and it seemed wonderful how they were all provided for. One half had breakfast at eight, lunch at twelve, and dinner at 5.30 ; the second, breakfast at nine, luncheon at one, and dinner at seven, and it is surprising how quickly all get settled down. ti~" (i^ TPVO MONTHS' TOUR IN If i b ' We left Liverpool at one p.m., weather fine, smooth sea, but no sunshine. We arrived at Queenstown on Sunday morning at six o'clock. Many passengers went on shore. It was a grey morning, with a cool breeze. Passengers and mails came along- side at one p.m,, and we at once got under way ; the sun shone, and every one settled down for the voyage. Out of the 620 passengers, I think the odd twenty were English, all the rest Ameri- cans, and almost every one had a large cane reclining chair, enabling them to recline at full length. The whole of the upper deck was lined with these chairs on both sides, and any number of pillows, cushions, and rugs — only a small passage to pass between them, and I could not but think it looked *fw««»w«(ftflfr Vr -rt — *■ ' i CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. 5 like a vast hospital. I must confess I would never even dream of taking a trip across the Atlantic for pleasure in a popular Cunard steamer with 600 homeward-bound \meri- cans. I certainly should prefer a I. ss popular ship ^hd fevrer passengers. There v^as no getting free of the smell of cocking in the saloon, as meals were going all day long ; the smoking-room was inconveniently crowded. I had a good-sized, comfortable cabin, but it was below the saloon, and like an oven, well-nigh suffocating, and the ports had to be kept closed. However, we made a quick passage. On Monday, at twelve o'clock, we had run 457 miles; Tuesday, 461 ; Wednes- day, 470 ; Thursday, 462 , Friday, 501 ; and we arrived at the landing-stag?- in New York harbour at eleven o'clock on Saturday ■i r«»- J::-^t... r^F(9 MONTHS' TOUR IN morning. We had hardly any sunshine throughout the voyage, and the latter part we had occasional fog, and the screeching fog-horn startled us at intervals, but we had comparatively a smooth sea. I came to the conclusion that a journey across the Atlantic is all very well as means to an end ; but to take a sea-trip for pleasure I infinitely prefer the Mediterranean. " I landed, and was free of the Custom House with my luggage at one o'clock, and> as New York has no charms for me, I drove direct to the Central Station — a long drive through a busy part of the city — and secured a section in the Pullman sleeping-car for Montreal. I then felt myself free for three or four hours, and drove through Broadway and round Central Park. I was much struck iEMtfil CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. with the material improvement and signs of wealth in the city — all the old crude buildings cleared away, and magnificent offices, stores, and hotels erected, giving unmistakable signs of great prosperity ; but the racket and noise was well-nigh unbearable. Since my last visit a new tramway has been laid through the very centre of Broadway, from end to end, and one company alone runs a car every minute throughout the day. This is in addi- tion to the other trams and the numerous carts, waggons, and private vehicles. The great noise and confusion can be more easily imagined than described. The granite pav- ing-stones don't add to its serenity. I dined at; the Union Hotel, close to Central Station, at six o'clock, and at 7.30 started for Mon- treal, and passed a comparatively comfortable m^ ;Ul \ l.i 0' # TIVO MONTHS' TOUR IN X il \Ki: night in the train, and arrived at eight a.m. Sunday morning. Sir Donald Smith kindly sent to the station for me, and on arrival gave me a hearty welcome. I found he had visitors staying with him — Lady Shrewsbury and Lady Selkirk — who were making a tour of America and Canada, simply with their two maids. They only arrived the evening be- fore my arrival. We all met at breakfast, then went to church and had a very good service. After luncheon we devoted our- selves in admiration of the art treasures in Sir Donald's picture gallery and museum. There are very fine pictures, and a large collection of very choice, valuable Japanese bronzes, and all sorts of curios. There is a banquetting-room, in addition to the ordinary iV li tfa^' J JM&iitte«.M'i!'^ :*i{>ram ^jm^m \ - CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. \ room. Our host is most hospitable ; we had dinner parties every day, except Tuesday, when we all dined with Sir George and Lady Stephen. ■■■■■-' "'' ■ "■■'"•'- We visited all the places of interest in and around Montreal, of which there are very many ; the drive round the mountain and the commanding views from the summit are very charming, also the steamboat ex- cursion down the Lachine Rapids. The population is 250,000, and rapidly in- creasing ; bricks and mortar abound in all directions. - •* • • I left Montreal at 8.40 p.m. on Friday, the 13th of September. Luckily I had the drawing-room of the car appropriated to me, and found it most comfortable, and it miti- gated the weariness of three nights and three I f ■ hi ? I ! 1 1 ij to riVO MONTHS' TOUR IN days in the train. I must say the Canadian Pacific Railway is admirable in all re- spects — the line runs easy and smooth, the dining cars are luxurious, and the cuisine very good, and very superior to anything I ever met with on the Grand Trunk Railway. I cannot say the country between Montreal and Winnipeg is very picturesque. We stopped at Sudbury, where there is a branch railway to St. Paul and Minneapolis. Sudbury is a considerable copper -mining district, and is extending rapidly. Smelting furnaces are in course of erection. We pass through hills, forests, and lakes, and on the second morning after leaving Montreal we catch glimpses of Lake Superior, and soon we are running along its precipitous shore ; on the right are tree-clad mountains, mostly \ ^ CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. n the green pine, and there are rocks all around. For many hours we continue along the lake» hour after hour we glide through tunnels and deep rock cuttings, over immense embank- ments, bridges, and viaducts, everywhere amazed at the great difficulties that had to be encountered in making the line. We crossed the Nepigon River, famous for its trout, ran down the shore of Thunders Bay, and stopped at Port Arthur, a thousand miles from Montreal, a beautifully situated city, but quite a mushroom. Eight years {!t"ce it was a mere landing-place, and now it is a flourishing town with a population of 5,000, apparently carrying on a prosperous trade, and the country around is getting rapidly cultivated. Only four miles further we came to Fort William, where there is con- la irf \M ..dWaMfttiSi*!.--:!!!*: -wvv^Uv ti«»Ste.«iirti»a*~ t§ TIVO MONTHS' TOUR IN iV If |1 , 1 siderable trade carried on. Long piers and wharves and a considerable amount of ship- ping ; and the great railway grain elevator, looming above all, is a monster, holding twelve hundred thousand bushels ; and every- thing IS new — the creation of two years. The country between Fort William and Winnipeg is a wild, broken region, with rapid rivers and lakes, and contains nothing of interest — poor soil, with poplar and small spruce-trees ; and we hardly saw a living thing for very many miles, until our near approach to Winnipeg. Wolseley led his army from Fort William to Winnipeg in 1870, using the more or less connected rivers and lakes much of the way ; at that time it was called Fort Garry, and there were but a few wooden huts, and now there is a hand- il0j>winii. ■-■-■ "W^V^f-V- 1-— .^-.^--rtl*-. CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES. 13 some city, capital of the province of Manitoba, of over 35,000 people, and is growing rapidly, and has street railways, electric lights, hand- some schools and colleges, a fine hospital, great flour mills and grain elevators. Since the great boom of 1880 and 1883 there has been a comparative quietness over the place, but there are now signs of revival, a few good harvests are wanted to set all alive again ; the cost of living is dear, and house -rent very high. Winnipeg has become what it always must be — the commercial focus of the North- West; situated where the forest ends and the vast prairies begin, with thousands of miles of river navigation to the North, South, and West, and railways radiating in every direction. Winnipeg is on a broad plain, and for i ft ' ■ ! , . i.j ;i Hfi*- % T -