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Rochester, New York 14609 U5A %^ (715) 482 - 0300 - Phone ^S (716) 288 -5989 -Fan i ■ ' IM'f DEPABTMENT OF AGRICUL JRE BAIET An COLD 8T0KAOS BBAVOH OTTAWA . - CANADA m ISLAND OF ORLEANS CHEESE •r J. C. CHAPAIS Aaaistant Dairy Commissioner BULLETIN No. 37 DAIRY AND COLD STORAGE SERIES 40000—1 OTTAWA GOVERNMENT PRINTING BUREAU 1918 I- i hi Il LETTER OF TRANSM1TTAI« Ottawa, March 15, 1913. |o the Honourable The Minister of Agriculture. Sir, — I beg to submit a manuscript copy of a description of the cheese which has )made for many years by certain families living on the Island of Orleans, together kthsonie notes on the process of ite manufacture, which has been prepared by Mr. J .C. m, Assistant Dairy Commissioner. This description of the Island of Orleai's cheese was first prepared by Mr. Chapais an article in the Journal of Agriculture and Horticulture, edited by the Quel»€c •rtment of Agriculture. It was afterwards published in pamphlet form. The ient ropy has been somewhat revised. 1 have the honour to recommend that it be printed for general distribution as talletin No. 37 of the Dairy and Cold Storage Series. X have the honour to be. Sir, Your obedient servant, I J. A. RUDDICK, Dairy and Cold Storage Commi»»ioner. rHhi V ij ^M ^H f .T ■ S i I'MtK :i«iir-:ii*aiiftf |''h.i iiK 1- Mm M> WOi.O r^M»" =■«'* ■' m Vu.im: 2 I'an \mtii Moii.ns. ^'liif M IWI { 1 , it, , 1 » «^H I •4 i i Fl'.l Ml I K \' K '-«*>•'-.' - i ■^m^: :fm^«i ■Vj^lH FK.riiK 2— III >n Mai i t I I III 1 THE ISLAND OF ORLEANS CHEESE. By T. C. Chapaii. In the grocery stores of the old city of Quebec there is offered for sale a small soft olieeso, very ripe, of a strong characteristic flavour and which is considered a great delicacy by connoisseurs. This cheese, better known in French as " Le fromage raffine lie I'lsle d'OrUans " (the word ' raffine ' being a corruption of the word * affine ', meaning cured or ripened) is a home made product, being manufactured exclusively on the farms of the Island of Orleans, a few miles below the city of Quebec, in the river St. Lawrence, where it is a fairly profitable industry. In view of the many requests for information that have come to me from various persons, I have thought that a description of the manufacturing process of this dainty little cheese might be of sufficient interest to warrant publication. Tlie information contained in this bulletin was gathered, in the course of a recent official tour, from one of the best families of cheesemakers on the Island, that of Mr. Joseph P. Roberge, of the parish of St. Pierre, who very kindly supplied me with ill the facts necessary to enable me to write the following notes. HISTORICAL. My first endeavour was to ascertain the origin of this cheese. I found, in the first place, that it has been manufactured for sale from time immemorial in the Island of Orleans. Kalm, a Swedish naturalist, who visited New France in 17'19, mentions this cheese in a relation of his journey. I also ascertained that it is made almost exclusively in the parish of St. Pierre and only in teij families, in which the process of manu- fiicture was handed down from father to son, or it would perhaps be more proper to say, from mother to daughter. At the present time, the heads of these families are: Joseph and Louis Aubin, F. X. Cote, Jean Ferland, Joseph Oagnon, Jean Goulet, Pierre Planfe, Joseph J. and Joseph P. Roberge and Narcisse Rousseau. Madame Jos. P. Roberge belongs to the Gosselins, one of the families who were the tirst to make this cheese at St. Pierre. Of course, it is also manufactured by a few other faiuilios in various parishes of the Island, but, strictly speaking, all the Island of Orleans cheese which is marketed i - made at St. Pierre. As this cheese is not unlike many varieties of soft cheese made in France, I Iielicve that it is of French origin and I have endeavoured to support this view with facts. In the first place, I find that all the families above mentioned have belonged to the parish of St. Pierre from the earliest times of the French colony. In the records of the parish, which go as far back as 1679, the name ' Aubin ' is mentioned for the first time in 1693, that of 'Cote' in 1684, 'Ferland" in 1680, 'Gosselin' in 1683 and ■Rousseau' in 1680. The name 'Goulet' appears a little later, in 1700, 'Plante' in 1747 and 'Roberge' in 1709. The Gagnon family came rather later from Chateau- Richer, after 1750. As already stated, the Island of Orleans cheese was made in these familiis at a very early date, beyond the knowledge of the present generation. It remains to show that these families made cheese in France before they emigrated to Canada. I believe that they did, for two reasons : There are, in France, two districts, or ' di'partements ' where, besides a number of varieties of soft cheese, manufactured iti co-npcrative factories, such as lirie, Camembert, Pont-1'Eveque, Mont-Dore, Port- du-Saiut, etc., there is also found a home made cheese which is made much in the same manner as the product of the Island of Orleans. These are the ' departementa ' of Aubi and Yonne, which form part of the old province of Champagne. This home made S 40000—3 < i ^eese IB the ' Soumaintrain ', bettor known in the trade under the name of Saint Korentin and which « produced in the Armaace Valley. Two characteristic foatZ of the manufacture of the ' Soumaintrain ' are that the milk is set (renneted) as JZ as ,t IS drawn from the cow and the cheese is cured or ripened in a wooden box Z these two features are also characteristic of the making of the Island of Orleans .hW Another proof that this cheese was made in France by the same farmers wlm after wards emierrated and settled in Canada is the fact that the word 'fic«e' or 'fisl- 18 used on the Island of Orleans to designate the mould in which the curd i. m . iiS^-^'ir'^ ^l the manufacturing process. I find the same word, althou.^h ^Jl differently m the ' Ma.son Rustique du XIXe Sidcle' and in the sixth edition o Pounau's' La Laiterie'. In the first place, it is spelt 'fescelle' and ' faissello ' n ,C second. Evidently ,t .s the same word brought to this country by the French settle. who had made the same cheese in France and the pronunciation of which was alteJ on the Island. However, m Canada, as well as in France, it is applied to a draini^ mould, formerly made of wood, but now made of tin. used in the manufacture of .hZ. PROCESS OF MANUFACTURE. f.nZ^^ ^.!'"'"'- i- ^'^f".' ""^^^ '' """^^ "^ ^''"'^ "^i"^- The quantities givon in tk following description of the method of making, are for three gallons of milk wl.io i X^riytTmTktS': ' ""'^ -' ''- '- --- -^'' - *^- - ^'-^ -" it isS^f /^' "»?Ji-:-The milk is set as soon as it is drawn from the cow a„,l whik It 18 still at the nulking temperature, about 90» Fahr. The extract of rennet nsdfor coagulating is made by the people of the Island in the following manner: Tbe fmirl stomach of a calf is taken. The calf must not be more than seven weeks ol, nndfrf S":!:^" "^f.j'?! ^*«™r^ '^ ^'--'^ -*• --^'^d in cold waCsp o ;! tZ?' '"^?^/" ^"^'^ ^'•^'^^ ^'tJ> « '"i'^ture of two spoonfuls of coarse salt and oJ teaspoonful of pepper, then put away to dry. When ready to use. it is cut i t^' small enough to pass through the neck of a bottle; then a pint of water a n W i sugar cane syrup (.ood molasses), a dessert spoonf.l of coarse silt anS pepper are mixed and boiled for ten mrnutes. Tho mixture is then taken of! to rennet the jar is tightly corked and the resulting ,solution-or extract of r 'nnet-i< turee gallons of milk. Tho milk coagulates in half an hour or so aboufSrSi^i^i^;^""- ^^"^'^ - *""* -r'«-^^ ^- -il'^-^ eow. hoMin. ate'd^t"hfcurd"i/o!'t ""f T"-""! ^'"\ "'''"^-When the milk is completely coagul- ated, the curd s cut into tw..-meh < ubes with an ordinary knife and as ho wlv separates from the ciml. it is poured ont of the pail. About two hours are JiS for drawing off the whey in this fashion. ' It is of round, or rather cylindrical shape, made of tin, and the bottom in.l m,1o* are Bixteenth of an inch in diameter are placed half an inch apart. The mould i. raised on iS tom't dw'tw""^ ^''^'"" f "' ^" ""^'^ '°""^ *i" cylinders soldo,: aUhe bottom to allow the remaining whey to escape from the bottom and sides out otone batch Thr«n!!,'^"i!''^ ""! '^' """^^' °^ '^^^^^ that are to be made Zlf •'°' ^^*^\ ^^^ f^ fi"*^ ^'th curd, not packed, and a handful of coarse dt lor every three cheese is thrown on top of the curd. Treatment of the curd m the mould. — The moulds containing the curd are idaeed 1 1 tin pan. This pan is usually 28 inches long, 14 inches wide, with rims 3 inehet ligh. It will hold a dozen moulds. The pan, with the moulds on top (See Fig. 2, Plate I) is placed on a table, near a jtove, where it is held at a temperature of 70° Fahr. It is raised at one end and the they draining off the mould escapes through an outlet at the lower end. A pail it (laced under the outlet to receive the whty, which is used again for washing the cheese, i will be seen later. When the top of the curd appears to be well drained, the curd ia ken out of the mould, turned over and replaced in the mould, the side that was on |op beinp this time at the bottom. A little salt is again thrown on the top. The curd ; left in the mould until it has sunk to about half of its original height, then it i« Jcen out for the last time. PJariug the cheese on the mat and rack. — When the cheese arc taken out of the Uuid for the last time, they are placed on a rack, four feet three inches long and two leet three inches wide. This rack consists of two sitieks, one inch thick, on the top of fheh are nailed laths one inch wide and half an inch thick, placed one inch apart. kre are about 20 to 2.5 laths in a rack. (See Fig. 1, Plate II.) Before placing the cheese on the rack, however, the latter is covered with a small at, made of rush, which is called a ' paillasson ' on the Island. The rush used in the aking of this mat is the ordinary 'Bull Rush' (Junctis effusus), n species chiefly jfound in ditches and swampy grounds and which grows in large tufts. This mat, which I: two feet three inches wide, requires about 150 rushes. These are placed on a table jand firmly threaded together by means of a strong needle and a coarse, home made thread. As many lengths of thread are used as are required to give the mat Ifufficient resistance. The rushes are arranged with the heads, or small ends, at one rtremity and the tails, or big ends, at the other extremity, so that they are as evenly Itpaced as possible. Othenvise, the surface of the mat would be uneven, and the leheese, which are very soft when i)laced- on the rack, would not keep their shape. !{SeeFig. 2, Plate II.) The cheese are placed side by side but not touching each other Icnthe rack, which ha«? previously been coverwl with the umt. The rack is then placed Ion a tin pan of the same size, having a rim two inches high around the etlge and a tap lat 0111' end through which escapes the liquid which drains off the cheese whilst the jlatter are mi the rack. (See Fig. 1, Plate III.) The i);in, with the rack, mat and clieese on top, is bung up one foot from the [wiiiiig. in a room kept at a temperature of about 70° Fahr., generally the kit<'hen. It is never hung above the stove, as an excess of heat would melt the fat off the cheese. Tile cheese are turned over twice a day. Two days after being put on the rack, they are (washed in a light l)rine, made by adding two handfuls of coarse salt to a gallon of ley, drawn off from the fresh curd, cut the same day or the day before. For this I wshing a elean cloth is used. After they are washed, the cheese are placed side by side on a home spun flax Vw cloth, about five feet long by three feet wide, laid on a table [and they nre covered wii another cloth. They are left there for two hours until the C-Wss fit' moisture rcsultinn' from the washing has been absorbed In- th<> cloth, then tiiey are i)iit again on the rack, the old mat having first been replaced by a new one. .^t first, tlie cheese are washed every other day, then every third or fourth day, as they aregettina: firmer, so that they may be ready for the ripening process, fifteen days later. When it is desired, at this stage, to keep a certain number of cheese for some time before rijiening them, they are put in a cool, dry place, not heated, but where it does not freeze. Under these conditions, they keep a fairly long time without spoiling. The ripening process. — Immediately before ripening, the cheese are preparwl in the following manner. They are put in a vessel, large enough to hold tliem all con- veniently; the vcr-sel is filled with cold water until the cheese are covered and two handfuls of coarse «alt are thrown in the water. The cheese that come directly off the ! i I T$tk are left twenty-four hours in the water; those that have been kept for oume tia after being taken off the rack are left from thirty-six to forty-eight hours. After this immersion in cold water, each cheese is wrapped in a sqmirc piec*, linen cloth, nine inches square, of the same make as the cloths already niintiow The face of the cheese, that is, the surface that is to be on top durinfr the rip«niii is laid on the cloth, and the four comers are brought around the under surface. pieces t)f cloth aie first dipped in a luke warm brine and simply wrung. Tlio fh« wl^ioh are then one inch thick, are placed in a box three and a half feet lonjr. eight* inches wide and fourteen inches deep. The length and width of the box ma.r tm with the number of cheese that are to be ripened, but the depth remains nWays tl same. There are in the bottom of the box from six to eight holes, half nu jnchl diameter and at equal distances apart. A box of this size easily hoMs thnn row cheese in width by seven rows in length, each row being twelve ohee*,-' Mph, or hundred and fifty-two choese. When the box is filled, it is covered with a cloth of same quality as those already mentioned, and which has also been soaked in l.rine it is placed in a cellar where it is kept at a temperature of about 45° Fahr. Care of thf cheese during ripening. — When the cloths in which the cheese i wrapped begin to dry, they are moistened with a light, luke warm brine. Tliis pn is repeated every other day. When they begin to turn yellow, they are waslicd ine water and afterwards rinsed in water to which a little salt has been added. Ai l. washing, of course, the cloths are taken off the cheese and put on again after washi This goes on for three weeks. At this stage, the body of the -iheese yiolda ua finger pressure. n. i ,, JI/owWs.— Great care must be taken to avoid the growth of moulds on the ohee A continual watch must be kept. Should the cellar be too warm or too dump, moj (penicillium) may develop. Should this happen, ihe cloth must be taken off tlie cbee and washti, as the mould greatly injures the body of the cheese. How the cheese are prepared for the market — Twenty-four hours after the!> washing of the cloths, that is after twenty-one days of ripening, the cheese :ire wrappi for the last time. All yellow parts of the surface are scraped until the cli-.-se ispt. fectly white. Then the cheese are wrapped, one by one, in ordinarj' chees. cloth or i paraflined paper. Each cheese is then five inches in diameter, one indi thick) iveighs on an average five ounces and one third, which gives three cheese to the pom Time required to make and ripen the cheese. — The time required lor ilie vanoa stages of the making is as follows : — Renneting and coagulating '. . . j hour. Cuttin^r the curd and drawing off the whey 2 hours. DraininfT curd in moulds lO •' Length of time on racks 15 (];,ys. Ripeninfr 21 " Total time, 36 days, 12J hours. GENERAL NOTES. People who are familiar with the manufacture of the ordinary soft r\wc<>\ suchi Brie and Camembert will readily perceive the essential points of differeiieo betwef their method and the method of making our ' Island of Orleans Cheese '. At tlie -„ ning of this article, I stated that the manufacturing process of the Souuiaiiitraim St. Florentin cheese resembled, in several features, that of the Island of Oiicins ebe' ^Jf^-^ •X - .^. h'h iiiK 1 l'.\y H>n iHii.iiiNii Rack ami Mai. 3t \,^-^^^^ .maj- ",» ■ ' r :l I Kii.iiu; 1 -Ui.AXn m Oiii.kans Ckkkm-. FlUlBK 2— MaHASIK JosKl'H P. KoUKIUiK. buiuppurt of this M«ertioii. I quote liere an extract of an article publi.hed by Mr. ^^»n Lame in the "Jtmmat d'AgricHur, Prmtiqut " on the Soumaintrain cheeae:-^ "The main fact in connection with the Soumaintrain i* that a/i operaliotu are ^Ztm^ « •".•'**'j"''.r'f''"^- '^•''* •• ^^ menti«l point of difference between the Soiimaintrain and all other «,ft and ripened eh. ^ like tb« Brie. The object •cidTS " """"^'■^'•'y "'t**' milkirK in to avoid any derelopment of 1 2*i"f.*°J*''' ^y'^ «>^uI«tion of the milk, all the fut goea into the aheeu, wd the latter ha. a hiuher nutritive value and more flavour. It melti in the mouth. The fata, aa la well known, retain the .Mlouni. During the riiM-ning of the eh.H^. there Ih a brenkiuK .lown of the ca*ein and .fermentation of the lactwe, reaultinK in a *oft. mellow bodied -hcew. more digestiMe. more appetiung and of better flavour. This is the ch.ef object of npeninff. * This twnrformation of the eheew? ih caused by the diastase of casease and by microbe, of the Tyrothr.x type. The«. agent, of fermentation give off gaaeou. product., particularly ammonia. They develop in the abaence of oxygen. Thi. is why the ripening of Soumaintrain is done in boxes. The ammoniacal atmosphere wluble" '" ''"^ '"'**"" advantage of helping in rendering the cawin Character of the lelaud of Orleam Chee.e.-k g,HKl Island of Orlean. cheeM never *ow8 any mould.. The colour is creamy white on the outside, of a deeper shade If cream inside; the body i. meaty, soft, mellow. A well ripened cheew, ready for ^Mumption doe. not liquefy, but melts n-aclily in the mouth. It give, off a .trona -iiomacal odour, disagreeable to most people. As already stated, the cheese i. five to 111 diameter and one inch thick. (See Fig. 1. Plate IV.) They are made from the middle of September to the middle of March only. iaoiym— An analysis of the chetMc was made at my reciuest by Mr A I rourehot, Chemist, Chief of the Official Chemical Laboratory of the Provinc^ of at the St. Hyacinthe Dairy School. 1 am greatly indebted to Mr. Tourchot rhukindnea. in regard to thi. matter and beg to <.ffer him my sincere thanks. !!f"*1'- •,.' 5382% Total wild. 4<,.lg^^ Composition of total solids. c'V • • • • : 2535% bolida not fat 20-83% Composition of solids not fat. Cawin or albumin and .alts soluble in hot water 502% Casein and salts inrolubic in hot water 15.81«'^ Free ammonia and ammoniacal salts expressed as ammonia. O-TOlV Total nitrogen 2-779' " Chloride of wxlium (kitchen salt) in the w)lid. not fat, Mluble in hot water l-7l<^ PROFIT IX MANUFACTURE. • We now have to see what profit the industry leaves to the farmers of St. Pierre. e will have to take into account the value of milk in the Island during the manu- cturniK scMon, the cost of material and accessories for making the cheese; the help quired and the selling price of the cheese. All the figures here given were supplied F tHe fanner, themaelves. Hi N I If i! Oil the IbUiu] of Orlemiit, the milk u worth only 18 i«iit« ■ irallon; it I* «« 2S <>enta a Kallon in t» city of Qwrf„^.. I.iit the farmen of the laUnd ran.wt votiiently eater to the rity trade, owiiiB to the lonir trip over land and water. The material rcquireil for nnkiiiir ••.iiisintn of roouMa, hieh eoet 10 wnu or $1J0 a doaen.pana for the drainiiiK of the nird wnile in the mouhla, 75 cenU rack", «) centa eaeh. pana for the rack. $8. matn. 80 ecnU, piecea of ok>th, 3 eeiiti table vkttha, $]. The salt for one doien cheiiie t-ontn A cent. |mrchment pa|ier or ck>th for the i 1 cent, and help for mannfacturinir one d<>«en cheew, g cenU. In Quebec, the cheeae \n mM whokwale. one dollar a doaen. With th.*.' t It id an eaay matter to fijmre out the coat of the cheew to the maker and the deriTfld. For a do«en cheeHe. four frallons <.f milk arc re