IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 turn |50 ""^^ ^ m ^ tiS, 1.4 2.5 2.2 2.0 1.6 V] *.^* I ^ c^W J^ # •> .j^, .^ /] y ^v 7 /^ ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation iV #civ ^ (moaning "CON- TINUED"), or tha symbol V (moaning "END"), whichavar applias. ly^apa, piataa, charts, ate, may ba filmad at diffarant raduction ratios. Thosa too larga to ba antiraiy Includad in ona axpoaura ara filmad baginning in tha uppar laft hand cornar, laft to right and top to bottom, aa many framas aa raquirad. Tha following diagrams illustrata tha mathod: 1 2 3 L'axamplaira filmi f ut raproduit grAca i la g^nirosit* da: S^minaire de Quebec Bibiiothique Laa imagaa suKrantaa ont «t* raproduitaa avac la plus grand soin, compta tanu da la condition at da la nattat* da i'Mampiaira film*, at mn conformity avac laa conditions du contrat da filmaga. Laa axamplairaa originaux dont la couvartura an papiar aat imprimia sont filmte an commandant par la pramiar plat at an tarminant soit par la darnlAra paga qui comporta una amprainta d'impraasion ou d'illustration, soit par la sacond plat, salon la caa. Tous laa autras axamplairaa originaux sont filmis an commanqant par la pramiAra paga qui comporta una amprainta d'impraaaion ou d'illustration at mn tarminant par la darniAra paga qui comporta una taila amprainta. Un daa symboiaa suivants apparattra sur la darnlAra imaga da chaqua microficha, salon la caa: la aymbola -^ signifia "A SUIVRE", la aymbola ▼ signifia "FIN". Laa cartas, planchas, tablaaux, ate, pauvant Atra fiim«a A daa taux da rMuction diff^rants. Lorsqua la documant ast trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saui cliche, ii aat film* A partir da I'angia sup4riaur gaucha, da gaucha A droita, at da haut an baa, an pranant la nombra d'imagaa nAcassaira. Laa diagrammas suivants iilustrant la m^thoda. 1 2 3 4 • 6 /Ui A DESCRIPTION O^T^ N^ ^ AND I ( %.\^^\ SAILING DIR FOR, THE l&tlKtr of l^t 3latu?emr, BBTWEEN CAPE GASPE AND THE RIVER ST. JOHN, TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL; ADAFTfiD TO ACCOMPANY THE CHART PUBLISHED BY R. H. LADHIE, WHICH HAS BKEN COMPOSBO FROM THE LATE INCLUDING THE MOST RECENT PUBLISHED BY R. Histlpibli^.y' No. 53, FLEET STREET, LONDO^— - / R] AD CHA ^^^^^--»..-fc, -t,.-^ .'.*:;. .^ v.. •'■ *.■ A DESCRIPTION OF AWB SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE KIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE, BETWEEN CAPE GASPfi AND THE RIVER ST. JOHN, TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL; ADAPTED TO ACCOMPANY THE CHART PUBLISHED BY R. H. L&RIE, ^ WHICH HAS BEEN COMPOSED FROM THE LATE SVRTBYS. O g ^ «■' -S v.^ ■5? <^ '^ iS^ ^5 '1-! INCLUDING THE MOST RECENT INFORMATION. LONDON: PRINTED FOR R. H. LAURIE, CHART-SELLER TO THE ADMIRALTY, THE HON. CORPORATION OF TRINIXY-HOUSE, «cc. No. 53, FLEET STREET. 1848. -I THE roLLOWING USEFUL AND IMPORTANT WORKS, i./tTET.T punnsiiei} By R. H. LAURIE, ARB RESPECTFULLY SUBMITTED- TO PARTICULAR NOTICE. 1. THAMES AND MEDWAY, &c.— A New Survey of the Estuary of the Thames and Medway, with the Coast from Thorpness to Dover, and the Rivera to London and Rochester; with particular Plans, on enlarged scales, of the Sovth Channels, Isle or Tmakbt, &c. (Honoured by the special approbation of his late Majesty : ) to which has been added, an odditional half.sheet, containing Capt. Hewett*s Soundings to the Meridian of 2** 10' Fast. With a Sailing Directory, 10(. The same Chart, without the additions, a$ btfort, 6$, 2. HOLY ISLAND, Fam Islands, &o. A new edition, materially improved, 5i. 3. The COASTS of HOLLAND, &c. {Executed to tnpersede the former Chart), 9i. 4. General Chart of the Navigation from the BRITISH ISLES to the RIO PLATA, CAPE of GOOD HOPE, and ALGOA BAY; with a Table of the principal Positions, and enlarged Plana of the Harbour of Uio Janeiro, Bahia, Island of Ascension, Roadstead of Ascension, Island of St. Helena, Roadstead of St. Helena, Snldanha Bay, Table Bay, and False Bay. By John Purdy. {Exemted to tuperude the former Chart), lOi. 6d. 5. The CANARY ISLANDS, with Madeira, Porto Santo, &c. {a new turvey,) with an enlarged Chart of the Islands of Madeira, Porto Santo, and Great Salvage, the Road of Funchal, and Roadstead of Santa Cruz (Teneriffe), with Views, &c. 5i. 6. A Chart of the ISLAND and BANKS of NEWFOUNDLAND, and the Coasts between Belle Isle and Boston, Cafe Cod, &c. ; including the Gulf and River of St. Lawrence, Nova Scotia, and the Bay of Fundy, compiled from recent Surveys by British and French Officers, and the Positions adjusted from numerous Observations. Constructed by John Purdy, and drawn by Alex. G. Findlay. With a New Sailing Directory. {The aboit has been executed to tu'periede the former Chart), 13f. 7. The BAY of HONDURAS, including the Western part of Cuba, the Swan Islands, and Mosquitia ; with particular Plans of the Harbour of Balize ; Bay of Truxillo ; Port Royal Harbour, Ruatan ; Harbour of Bonacca ; Western part of Cuba, the Rio Dulc^, and Mugeres Harbour; N.E. Coast of Yucatan. Improved from the recent Surveys of Captains Richard Owen, R.N., and Bird Allen, &c., by John Purdy. {Executed to siipenede the former Cliart), 8$, *«* A copious description of, and Sailing Directions for, all the Navigation eihibited on this Chart, are given in the Colombian Navigator, Vol. 3, by John Purdy, 10s. 8. Chart of TASMANIA, or VAN DIEJUEN'S LAND, 2j.6d. 9. A GENERAL CHART of the ATLANTIC OCEAN, according to the Observations, Surveys, and Determinations of the most eminent Navigators, British and Foreign : from n Combination of which the whole has been deduced, by John Purdy. With particular Plans of the Roadstead of Angra, Terceira, Ponta>Delgada, St. Michael's, of the Channel between Fayal and Pico, Santa-Cruz to Funchal, &c. On four large sheets. With Additions to the present time, ids. 10. The ATLANTIC, or WESTERN OCEAN, with Hudson's Bay and other adjacent Seas : including the Coasts of Europe, Africa, and America, from Sixty-Five Degrees of North Latitude to the Equator; but without the particular Plans above mentioned. Reduced, chieftyf from the larger Charts, by John Purdy, and beautifully engraved on two large sheets, 8(. 11. GULF of St. LAWRENCE.— 7Ae Gulf of St. Lawrence and Breton Island, on a large scale, from actual Surveys and Astronomic Observations. With particular Plans of the Gut of Canso, Louisbourg Harbour, Sydney or Spanish River, Ristigouche Harbour, the Mingan Isles, &c. Two sheets, lOi. 6d, 12. NOVA SCOTlh.— Nova Scotia, with a Part of Breton Island ; including the Bay of Fundy, and South Coast of New Brunswick; with Plans of the Harbours of Halifax, Sbel- burne, Liverpool, &c. Improved Edition, 8s. [lEitteretf at Stattonetfl' l^all.] 3. I rniNTED nv j. iiidf.h, 14, babtiioi.omf.w ciose, london. RKS, CONTENTS [CE. f the Thames and m and Rochester ; or ThANBT, &c. s been added, an n of 2« 10' East. oved, 5i. Chart), 9$. le RIO PLATA, incipfll Positions, ion, Roadstead of >Ie Bay, and False survey,) with an ige, the Road of and the Coasts md River of St. ys by British and Constructed by itory. {The above Swan Islands, and :illo; Port Royal Icfe, and Mugeres Captains Richard former Chart), 8». bited on this Chart, the Observations, I Foreign : from a articular Plans of Channel between Additions to the id other adjacent Degrees of Morth Reduced, chiefly^ sheets, 8i. stand, on a large Plans of the Gut tour, the Mingan iding the Bay of }f Halifax, Shel- I I PACE The Pharonology, or Description of the Lighthouses i Variations of the Compass 1 1 . General Phenomena ; Winds, Fogs, Currents, &c I 2. The Island of Anticosti, and the North Shore between the River St John and Cape de Monts 2 The Island of Anticosti, 2; South- East Point Lighthouse, 3 ; West Point, 3 ; South-West Point and Liffhihouse, 3 ; River St. John on the North Shore of the River, 4 ; Moisic River, 5 1 Seven Islands' Bay, 5 ; Trinity Bay, 7 ; Point de Monis and I Blocity of from 3 to t downwarda, thua ila atrength. It ia reogth towarda the deptli of the river, parte. and Green laland. during the flooda between the two ins cloee in>ahore, I the current to the : it if difficult for a on theaouth, and ) aouthward by the la of Manicougan, •, aa thia aouthern rge rivera between fflux of water from >f the Red laland er above this part RE BETWEEN S. in length, between ) bay nor harbour 1 may be seen, in season, that it can ated, and covered continent, for the ce, and the heavy many ahipwrecks overnment agents ho are furnished lem. Boards are le friendly spots, of which will be en on shore here le their escape to ISLAND or ANTICOSTI.— ELLIS BAY. • ** One of llieae proviaion-poela ia al two leaguea to the 8.E. from the weat end of the iaiand, in Ettk Cove, or Grand Bajf i the other ia in Shatiop Creeks three leaguea to the W.N.W. froM the aouth point of the iaiand, and al the two light^houaea.*' The government agent livea on ahore at the houaes, and baa, or ahould have, poaaeaaion of a aufficieni quantity of proviaiona for the aupply of shipwrecked peraona, which are to be • iaaued, when requireo, in regular quantities to each roan : the captain, Ace. giving receipta (for the eipeoditure. Early in 1839, a ahipwrack was discovered to have taken place on the south ahore of the iaiaad ; and it waa then found that the eatabliahment for aaving livea, &o. had been abandoned, in conaenuence of which, it appeared that 16 or 18 peraona had periahed from hunger on the iaiand, and no one was left to tell the melancholy tale. Circumatances, however, afforded aufikient evidence to prove that the aufferera were the crew and paaann- Ers of the ship Orankiu, which sailed from Quebec on the 39lh of October, 1838. The es of theae unfortunate peraona would, in all probability, have been preserved, had not the houae which they auoceeded in reaching been abandoned and deatitute of proviaiona. Several other veaaela, which aailed from Quebec nearly at the aame time as the Grauicua, have not aince been heard of.* We give theae particulars as a caution. The iight>houae on the S.W. point has since been established, and there can be no doubt that it will be eminently useAil. From the light-house, Ellis Cove bears N.W. by N. (magnetic) eleven leagues. On Heath Point, the S.E. extremity of Anticosti, is a new light-tower, but which has not yet been illuminated. East Cape is in lat. A9'> S' 35', long. 61° 39' 59'. It is a perpendicular cliff, 100 feet high, and at the extremity of the low land to the southward is Heath Point, on which stands the above mentioned tower; at a little distance it appears like a sail, and is useful '\'\ marking the extent of the low land to vessels either to the E. or W. of N. Between Fox Buy to the north and East Cape the coast is bold and clear ; there is anchorage in westerly winds between Cape Sand I'op and East Cape, at the distance of a mile from the shore. Reef Point is the south point of Fox Bay, ana from it runs a danger- ous reef for 1 1 mile, with only a few feet water, and 10 fathoms close to the end of it. A house and store are at the N.W. side of the head of the bay, and are the scenes of the sufferings of the crew of the GranieuM, mentioned above. Table Head is remarkable by the hill, from which it derives its name ; and from hence to Cm>e Robert, 19 miles north-westward, the coast is broken into small bays, which afford no anchorage. From Cape Robert to Bear Head the bearing and distance are N.N.W. J W. 6 miles. Between them is Bear Bcuf, which is the best anchorage on the north of Anticosti, and this is in 13 fathoms water ; C^pe Robert bearing S.E. | S. and Bear Head N. by W. ^ W. From Bear Head to Cape Obiervation, a bold, high, and remarkable headland, is 13| miles north-westward ; the coast between them is bold, with high, greyish white cliffs, and small bays between. Eleven miles north-westward from Cape Observation is Carleton Point, under which vessels may anchor in fine weather, and can procure wood and water. Farther on is ^hite North Cliff, which appears like a white patch on the land, and can be seen at a distance of 6 or 7 leagues. From Carleton Point to within four miles of White North Cliff there are low cliffs. From White North Cliff to High Cliff is 36 miles ; between them the coast is low in front, with high ridges a short distance in the country. This part of the coast is very dangerous, as the reefs extend for two miles outward, commencing at VVhite North Cliff, where they are half a mile broad, widening to about 13 miles from High Cliff, and terminating about 7 miles E. of it. High Cl\ff Cape is easily recognised, as it is the only cliff on the north coast to which tlie sea does not come quite up to the base. From High Cliff to North Cape is 13 miles ; it is wooded, and of very moderate height. The coast here trends round to West Point, between which are flat reefs, extending a mile offshore. It is in lat. 490 53' 30', and long. 64° 33' 8'. * A complete list of the wrecks which have occurred on Anticosti would l>e a melancholy docu- ment : but the instances already given are sufBcient to show with how much caution the island should be approached. In thick and foggy weather, the barque Flora was stranded here and lost on the 22nd of August, 1832, at about 15 miles from the light-house, when the latter could not be seen. — See Nautical Magazine, Feb. 1833, p. 87. ii i I I 4 NORTHERN SHORE OF THE GULF. Between West Point and Cape Henry the reefs extend a mile and a quarter off shore, and ought to be approached with caution. ELLIS BAY is the only good anchorage in the island of Anticosti. It runs inland between Cape Henry and Cape Eagle. Off these two capes run flat limestone reefs ; that from Cape Henry is nearly a mile out to the south, and the other extends three^uarters of a mile west of Cape Eagle. The entrance between them is 600 fathoms wide, between the depths of three fathoms. In approaching the bay with westerly winds, run down the reefi off Cape Henry in ten fathoms, until the west side of the If^hite Cliff, on the E. side of the Day, is on with the E. side of the western mdst of two hills at a distance, which lie near the nonh coast between the north and west points ; then haul up with these marks on, which will lead into smooth water, close under Cape Henry Reef, in 3^ fathoms, until Gamache House bears N. by £., and then bear up for it, and anchor in 3 fathoms, muddy bottom, about half a mile from the flats at the head of the bay, and 300 iath oms from those on either side. Becscie River is a very small stream at the head of a small cove, affording shelter for boats, and is 12 miles S.E. from Ellis Cove*, and seven miles further, in the same direc- tion, are St. Mary Cliffs, which are 21 miles from South- West Point. Observation River is Si miles northward of this point, and is the largest stream on the island : on the north of this river are some conspicuous sandy cliffs. Between South-West Point and Ellis Cove there is no anchorage, and off the shore there are reefs of flat limestone, extending fully a mile, and often 10 or 12 fathoms water close to them. Softth- West Point is a low projecting mound of limestone, having a small cove on its north side, which forms it into a peninsula ; on the western extremity of the (>oint stands the light-house, a conical tower, 75 feet high, and the lantern elevated 100 feet above the sea. It shows a brilliant light, which revolves once in a minute, and is lighted every year from the 25th of March to the last day in December. To the light-house is attached a provision- post, which forms a very conspicuous land-mark. Salt Lake Bay has fine sandy beaches, enclosing lagoons, into which the tide flows. It is 11 miles south-eastward of the S.W. point, and off it, in the centre of the bay, with its N.W. point bearing N.E. } E. If mile distant, there is very indifferent anchorage in seven fathoms. Thirty-two miles from South- West Point is Favilion River; in this distance the coast is the boldest on the south of the island, and should be approached with caution. Shalbp Creek lies 13 miles N.W. of the South Point, and the houses of the provision- post are here : between this and the south point the coast is very low, and may be ap- proached safely by using the lead. South Point is a cliff of sandy clay, about 60 feet high ; a reef extends south of it for nearly 1} mile. The tower on Heath Point and Cormorant Point bearing £. by S. in one clears this. Cormorant Point bears E.N.E. 16^ miles from South Point, and W. by N. 6 miles from Heath Point. Off Heath Point there is one of the best open anchorages on the island. The best berth is in 10 fathoms, sand and mud, with the tower bearing £. by N. and Cormorant Point nothing to the west of W.N. W. The vessel will then be two miles off shore, and sheltered from all winds between W.N.W. to E. by N. round by north. At Anticosti the tide flows, on the full and change, at 1 h. 43 m. ; it runs tide and quarter. Springs rise 10, and neaps 4 feet. The NORTB SSORB. — ^The River St. John is frequented occasionally by fishing schooners, early in the season. At the entrance, between the clay cliffs on the west and a sandy point on the east side, the river is 1 30 fathoms wide ; it increases in breadth to nearly half a mile immediately within the entrance, and then gradually contracts. The tide ascends it about six miles, and the river then becomes too rapid to be navigated. There is good anchorage outside the bar, there being three fathoms at three-quarters nt a mile from the mouth. It divides the governments of Labrador and Canada. The.E. point of the entrance is in lat. 50® 17' 11', and long. 64° 23' 13".» From the River St. .Tohn to Magpie Point is VV.N.W. B miles, and between them is Magpie Bay, in which there is good anchorage-, in winds off the land. Three quarters of * The coasts and islands of Labrador, from St. John's River to Hudson's Strait, with the island of Anticosti, were re-annexed to the government of Newfoundland, in 1809, by Act of Parliament, 49 Geo. IIL c. 27. I a quarter off shore, isti. It runs inland imestone reefs ; that ids three-quarters of s wide, between the Cape Henry in ten the bay, is on with lear the north coast which will lead into mache House bears n, about half a mile ther side. affording shelter for in the same direc- Obtervation River iland : on the north oint and Ellis Cove t, extending fully a i small coTe on its )f the point stands 100 feet above the lighted every year ouse is attached a the tide flows. It f the bay, with its anchorage in seven n this distance the with caution. of the provision- , and may be ap- is south of it for g E. by S. in one )t, and W. by N. anchorages on the bearing E. by N, n be two miles off by north. it runs tide and I occasionally by cliffs on the west ases in breadth to r contracts. The navigated. iree- quarters ot a the entrance is in between them is Three quarters of it, with the island ^ct of Parliament, SEVEN ISLANDS BAY. 9 [a mile west of the Magpie Rivera which is large and rapid, but of no use to boats, is a rocky shoal, a quarter of a mile offshore. Ridge Point is 3} m'.les W.N.W. \ W. from Magpie Point, and from it there extends a |long narrow ridge of rocky ground, with from 4 to 6 fathoms water, for 4} miles to the westward, across a bay, and at times there is a very heavy sea upon it. Sawbill River is 33 miles westward of .he River St. John ; it may be distinguished by \htt clay cliffs immediately within the entrance, and by the peculiar hills on either side of it. It will afford shelter to boats and very small craft, but it can only be entered in very ine weather. Shallop River is 7| miles N.W. by W. from Sawbill River, and affords shelter only to >ats. Off this and Sandy River, 2\ miles to the westward of it, there are some rocks, the outermost of which are half a mile off shore. The coast of this part is impregnated with iron, the black oxide of which is here found f abundantly. It has a strong magnetic action on the compass on shore, causing it to vary ; from 14 to 29 degrees west; but at the distance of two or three miles, this error does not [exceed half a point, and at the distance of five or six miles it is insensible. Manitou River is the next to the westward, 4) miles N.W. by W.froiP Shallop River, [it is the largest on the coast, excepting the rivers St. John and Moisic. It may be readily distinguished from a vessel several leagues off the coast, by two remarkable patches of .clay cliff, one of which is close to the eastward, the other about one mile to the north- ^westward from it. The falls on this river, half a mile from the entrance, are of the most lagnificent description. An immense sheet of water rushes over a precipice of porphyry, fthe height of which is 113 feet. There is good anchorage off this river, the entrance bearing N.E. ) E. !§ mile distant, !«in 15 fathoms, over mud, and one mile from Manilou Point, the nearest point of the shore. /Smaller vessels may anchor further in-shore, to the westward of the bar. The only danger I is a small rocky shoal, bearing W. by N. 2^ miles from the entrance of the river, about I three-quarters of a mile off shore. I Bason River is lOf miles W.N.W. i W. from Manitou River, but is only fit for boats ' or very smnll craft. Cape Cormorant lies 1| mile west of it, and Blaskowitz Point is 5| miles W.N.W. ^ W. from the latter, and between them are the Cormorant lelets, off which is Cormorant Reef, small and dangerous, lying 2) miles W. J N. from the Cormorant ,j Cape. To avoid this, vessels should keep Points Blaskowiiz and St. Charles open of each 'f other, as when in onej bearing W.N.W., the mark is on the reef. ' Point St. Charles is in lat. 50° 15' 25*, and long. 66° 48' 50". It is the eastern i point of Moisic Bay, Point Moisic at the entrance of the Moisic River being the western, and 1 1 miles apart. I Off the point is a dangerous reef, being so bold that there is no warning by the lead : I some of the rocks always show, but the outermost patches are always covered; these last I lie three-quarters of a mile off, to the S.S.W. from the south extreme of the point, and ' vessels should take care not to be becalmed to the westward of this reef, lest the heavy / swell from the S.W., so frequent on this coast, should heave them toward the reef. Trout River is on the head of the bay, and is the termination of the rocky shores from I the E. and the commencement of the bold sandy beach, which extends 6^ miles S. W. by I W. to the River Moisic. ) The RIVER MOISIC is a larger river than the St John, but is much obstructed by the sand-bars, which are formed by the great force with which the river descends ; there is usually not less than 9 feet least water on the bar. It is very bold-to off its mouth ; but from Point Moisic, the south point of the river, there is a shoal extends 22- miles W.S.W. ^ W. from the Point, to the Moisic Rock, which is exceedingly dangerous. It is as bold as a V wall to the S. and S.W., and can generally be seen in fine weather, from the change in the colour of the water, and from heavy breakers, when there is much sea running. There is no close leading mark for clearing this rock, but a vessel will be If mile from the edge of the shoal, when the N. side of the Manowin Island is on with the S. point of Great Boule Island. .—The sandy point, which is the eastern point of the entrance of this magnificent bay, is 1 1 miles westward of Point Moisic. The Bay is completely sheltered by the Seven Islands lying off its entrance, which is 2| miles wide* $ NORTHERN SHORE OF THE GULF. A fine broad, bold, landy beach extends for three miles northward from the east point of the Bay, to the entrance of the principal river, near which stands the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's trading post. The houses at this post cannot be seen from the outer parts of the Bay, but there is a wooden store on the beach, off which vessels usually anchor. Water can be obtained from this river at high tide. The SEVEN ISLANDS are high and steep, of primary rocks, veiy thinly wooded, and can be made out from a distance of 7 or 8 leagues, oeing unlike any thing else in the Gulf. The easternmost of these islands are the Great and Little Bouie, the former of which is the highest of them all, its summit being 695 feet above the sea at high water; its south point bears west 9) miles from Point Moisic. The channel between these two islands is subject to ba£9ing winds, and the flood tide sets strongly to the west, and the ebb to the east, through it ; a circumstance that must be attended to in all the channels between the islands. The Eait Roekt, which are low and bare of trees, lie between Little Boule and the shoal to the N.£. ; they are out of the way of vessels, which ought not to go into this embayed place. The Little and Oreat Basque Islands lie next to the Boules ; Great Basque, the inner island, is 500 feet high. Manowin and Carousel lie to the S.W. of the Basques : the former is 457 feet high; the Imtter much lower, and the southernmost of the islands ; its south extreme is in lat. 50° 5' 29", long. 66° 23' 35'. The fFett Bjocks lie between Manowin and the penintutat which forms the west point of the Bay of the Seven Islands. They are too small and low to appear as the seventh island, but the peninsula has that appearance when seen at a distance from sea, being higher than any of tne islands, and 737 feet above the sea at high water. There are three obvious channels into the bay, viz. the eastern, middle, and western chanoeb : the eastern, between Great Basque and Sandy Point, is seldom used, having a rock in its centre, which is covered only in high tides. The principal and best is the middle channel, between the Basque Islands on the £. and Carousel, Manowin, and Point Chaui, the eastern point of the peninsula, and off which a reef runs out 120 fathoms from Uie shore. The course through it is due north, its breadth is 1| mile, and it is quite free from danger. The west channel is also quite free from danger, and perhaps, in N. or N.W. winds, is preferable, to save beating ; it is between the West Rocks and Point Croix, the south point of the peninsula. This point deflects the ebb tide towards the West Rocks, and this ought to be attended to. The peninsula is quite hold-to, and the mid-channel is nearer to it than the West Rocks : it is quite clear, and there are no leading marks, nor are there any required for any of the channels, "rhe ground is not fit for anchoring until well within the bay. Outside the islands the water is extremely deep, and their shores are quite bold*to. The stream of tides in the bay and in the principal channels seldom amounts to a knot ; but in the narrow channels it may amount to two knots in spring tides, when accelerated by strong winds. It is high water on the full and change days at 10 minutes past one ; spring tides rise 9 feet, neaps 8 feet. From the S.E. point of Carousel to Cape de Monts the bearing and distance are S.W. by W. J W. [5. W. } S.] 60 miles. The coast between is less bold in appearance than that to the eastward, and there are no detached rivers off it. St. Margaret River is 6 miles N.W. by W. from Point Croix, nearly at the head of St. Margaret Bay ; it affords shelter to boats only. The Cawte Islands lie S.W. by W. ^ W. 16 miles from St. Margaret Point ; they are two small hilly islands, nearly bare of trees. Great Cawee Island is the largest and eastern- most, and about 250 feet high. Little Cawee Island is a mile to the S.W. of it, and is composed of two islets. There is a bay on the inner or N.W. side of Great Cawee, in the mouth of which there is anchorage at a cable's length from the island. It is an intricate and dangerous place, but may be of great use as a place of refuge in case of distress. In making for it from the eastward, steer N.W. past the N.E. side of Great Cawee Island, keeping half a mile off, to IS 'om the east point of I [ludson's Bay Com- ' e outer parts of ihe ally anchor. Water thinly wooded, and ing else in the Gulf, 'mer of which is the Iter; its south point vo islands is subject he ebb to the east, between the islands. Boule and the shoal ) into thia embayed tt Basque, the inner ler is 457 feet high; I extreme is in lat. IS the west point of i the seventh island, , being higher than iddle, and western lorn used, having a •al and best is the 'anowin, and Point ■ 120 fathoms from and it is quite free or N.W. winds, is >ix, the south point :ks, and this ought ia nearer to it than nor are there any til well within the re quite bold- to. mounts to a knot ; lien accelerated by ; springtides rise and distance are lid in appearance at the head of St. t Point ; they are rgestand easierii- .W. of it, and is Ih of which there dangerous place, ng for it from the half a mile off, to TRINITY BAY. 7 ivoid the shoal off the mouth of the cove, until the point of the main land to the westward >pens clear of the north side of the island. When you arrive between the rocks and the iland, which you will come tc H steering for the point of the main laud, keeping it mid- ray between the north side of island and these rocks, which lie to the northward of it» liaul into the mouth of the ssv bay, which is on the N.W. side of the latter, and anchor 7 fathoms at low water. Tiui anchorage may become at from the westward, by keeping mid-channel between Little Cawee and the main ; but it would be better to pass between rreat and Little Cawee Islands, hauling close round the west point of the latter into the Inchorage. The tides run through between the island and the main at a rate seldom exceeding I i knot, and generally much less. Lobster Bay is an excellent open roadstead, between Point ^oukf three-quarters of a Bile north-westward of Little Cawee Island, and the Crooked ii/ond*, three miles to the westward of the point ; the head of the bay is occupied by an extensive flat, but there is )lenty of room for the largest ships. Pentecott River is 1 ) mile to the westward of Crooked Island ; it would afford shelter |o small vessels, but is difficult of entrance. Engliih Point is 7 miles S.W. of Pentecost River, and has a shoal extending off it to l)e distance of one-third of a mile. It is bold-to on the S.E. and east. Egg Island is 14 miles S.W. | W. from Great Cawee Island. It is low and narrow, rithout trees, and three-quarters of a mile long in a N.N.E. | E. direction ; off each end of lie island a reef of rocks extends, forming a natural breakwater, 1) mile long, the northern ^nd of which is three-quarters of a mile off shore, and the southern end nearly a mile. '>pposite the N. end of the island, the breadth of the channel is contracted by a shoal |>xtending from the main ; on the S.W. part of this narrow part is the best anchorage. The passage to this from the S. and W. is quite bold, and no directions are necessary ; lut if it be intended to run through between the island and the main, stand in to the north- ward, to 8 or 9 fathoms, or until English Point is open half a point to the northward of the orth Rocks; then steer for English Point, giving the inner side of the North Rocks a berth ' t>f a cable's length, until you have passed them a full quarter of a mile ; you may then haul out to sea, going nothing to the southward of S.E. by £. to avoid the N.E. reef. • The tides running between the island and the main are generally from half to one knot, ..And part of both the stream of ebb and flood passes through the narrow and dangerous .three-fathom channel between the island and the North Rooks. Calumet River is ^\ miles W. by S. from the S.W. end of Egg Island. There are reefs to the S.W. of the entrance for a mile, and extending 600 fathoms from the shore. Caribou Point is 8^ miles S.W. by S. from Egg Island, and affords shelter for the pilot-boats, which often look out for vessels here. . TRINITY BAY is five miles further south-westward, and affords excellent anchorage: jt is a very valuable stopping-place, iu westerly winds, for vessels bound up the St. Law- i'ence, and at these times pilots are generally found waiting to take vessels upward ; but in easterly winds they take shelter in St. Augustin Cove, 1 ^ mile westward of the Cape. On the N.E. point of the bay are two large rocks; there is no passage between them, and the northern one dries to the main in spring ebbs. The southern rock lies nearly a quarter of a mile to the southward of the point. The bay is 3} miles round, from point to point. A river, which falls into it, will supply fresh water ; and there is another stream at half a mile to the westward of the western point. Wood is abundant. To anchor, come-to at half a mile to the eastward of the west point, on which stands a cross, in from 9 to 5 fathoms, and with the point bearing W.S.W. or S.W. by W. Small 'vessels may anchor in S fathoms, at low water, just within the reef, the western point of |lhe bay bearing S.W. At three-quarters of a mile S.W. from the point on which the cross .Is placed, is a ledge of rocks, dry at low water, and which should not be approached nearer than to the depth of 4 fathoms. The coast between Cape de Monts and this bay is indented with small sandy coves, and in the interval are three .large rocks, always above water, which will be avoided by not approaching nearer than in 8 fathoms. The light-house on Point de Monts is 5 miles to the south-westward of Trinity Bay. It is a mile and a quarter N.E. by E. ^ E. from the extremity of the cape, and bears I' 8 THE SOUTH SHORE OF THE ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER. 8. 52" W. from the outer part of Caribou Point, over which, and eastward of it, the liglit 9 St. may be seen. #*g^ The light tower is of the usual form, nearly white, and the lantern is elevated at about ^ndc too feet above the level of the sea, and exhibits a bright fixed light. ? Ca Ships from the eastward, approaching the light-house, on drawing towards Caribou Point, may bring it to bear W. by S., when they will be in a good fair-way, and may, if requisite, advance toward the land, by the lead, but after passing Caribou Point, on drawing toward the light'house, ibey should come no nearer than in 1 2 fathoms ; for thus they will avoid two ledges of rocks, one of which lies E.S.E. from the light-bouse, with only 12 fcet over J it ; the other lies S.W. from _the light-house, and E.S.E. from ths extremity of Cape de Monts, with 16 feet over it.' These rocks are not more than half a mile from shore at low water. When a ship is to the westward of the Cape de Monts, the light-house will appear; in one with the outermost rocks of the same, and the cape will be in one, bearing^ N.E. by E. } E., and from this line of bearing vessels are in the best fair- way for proceeding up or down the river. You may, if it be required, safely approach the north shore, until the light-house bears E. by N. ; but when it bears E. ^ N. it will be ti^^ie to tack. When bearing east, it will be shut in with the high land, and cannot be seen to the southward of east, at only a mile from the land. III.— THE SOUTH SHORE OF THE ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER, FROM CAPE ROSIER TO CAPE CHATTE. This coast is bold and high, quite clear from dangers, and affords no harbour, or scarcely any shelter for vessels. The water is deep all along, and will not give any warning in approaching the coast, by tiie lead ; it must therefore be guarded against during fogs, or in the night, more especially as the downward current of the river sets over to the south side from Cape de Monts. The land generally rises from the water's edge into round high hills at the back, and the whole is covered with trees. Cape Roster is about two leagues to the northward of Cape Gasp^. It is a rugged, rocky point, and the shore to Cape Gasp^ is very steep, with high perpendicular cliffs. To the S.W. of Cape Rosier, about a quarter of a mile, is a fine sandy bay, with good anchoring ground, decreasing in depth from 14 to 7 fathoms toward the beach, and sheltered from S.W. to N.W. winds. There are several fishing establishments on it, and in the vicinity. GriffirCt Cove is 6J miles W.N.W. from Cape Rosier. The north point of its entrance is bluff, and it has several houses within it. It will afford shelter to small vessels with a west wind, but it is open to the north. Five miles further is Great Fox River, off which a vessel might anchor in fine weather : it may be known by the extent of the settlement on its banks, particularly on the soutliern side. Great Pond River, or Anse de VEtang, 16 miles N.W. \ N. from Great Fox River, will afford shelter to shallops ; it may be known by a remarkable high, wooded, conical hill on the east side, and by a beach with a few huts and stages on the west. Some of the people of the parish of St. Thomas, on the Riviere du Sud, 33 miles below Quebec, frequent this place during the cod-fishing season. The river issues from several lakes, one of which is only half a mile through the woods from the fish stages. Fishermen also frequent the Grande Vollee, or Great Valky River, the Magdalen River, Mont Louiit River, St. Anne's and Cape Chatte, during summer ; but there appears to be no permanent settlers, those of St. Anne excepted, until we reach Matane. Magdalen River is a considerable stream, and in the bay, at the mouth of it, a vessel can anchor in fine weather, and sometimes schooners warp into the river itself. It is 24 miles from Greut Pond and 16 miles from Mont Louis River, which is a much smaller stream ; the small bay, into which it falls, affords anchorage to vessels nearer the east than the west side. Cape St. Anne is 26 miles further westward, in the rear of which are the St. Anne Mouutaint, the highest of which is 14 miles behind Cape Chatte, and is 3970 feet above the sea ; it is the highest land in British North America. IE KIVER. >tward of it, the liglit^ is elevated at about iwards Caribou Point, and may, if requisite, it, un drawing toward r thus they will avoid ith only 12 feet over , ixtremity of Cape de 3. mile from shore at :ht-house will appear I be in one, bearings r-way for proceeding he north shore, until liTie to tack. When to the southward of RIVER, FROM harbour, or scarcely ive any warning in St during fogs, or in ver to the south side at the back, and the It is a rugged, )erpendicular cliffs. >dy bay, with good rd the beach, and shments on it, and oint of its entrance small vessels with a IX River, off which f the settlement on eat Fox River, will ied, conical hill on Some of the people lebec, frequent this Bs, one of which is also frequent the t Hirer, St. Anne's It settlers, those of uth of it, a vessel er itself. It is 24 : a much smaller Barer tlie east than are the St. Anne 3970 feet above GENERA r DESCRIPTION OF THE HIVEM ST. LAWRENCE. 9 St. Ann Rher is 6 miles west of the cape, and ran be entered by sfflsil schooners at igh water. A few families are settled here, and also at Oipe Chatte River, who Willingly nder assistance to such as require it. Cape Chatte is a remarkable hummock, like a short sugar loaf, on a point which is wer than the land about it. Its extremity is in lat. 49" 6 ., and long. 66^ 45' 19^. At out three miles to the S.E. of it is a small river of the same name. The land over Cape Chatte is very mountainous, and is much broken at the top ; hence may be readily known, as there is ,no land presenting similar features in any other part the river. IV.— GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE RIVER. "The River of St. Lawrence, and the whole country from the lowest parishes to luebec, unfold scenery, the magnificence of which is considered to be unequalled in .merica, and probably in the world. "It is impossible to travel along the road, near the river, without observing^ most ph'ident traces of higher levels of the river than the present one ; the rocks are actually %om as evidently as at the present high water mark { and many of the sharp points of thie lower ones show, to conviction, that they were once small rocks in the St. l^wrenoe or the i|cean ; and that the now cultivated flat between the first ridge, being the river boundary, id the second ridge, formed, at no very remote period, a part of the St. Lawrence, or of le ocean. "The southern shores are thickly settled by the descendants of the French, who, af lifferent times, emigrated to Canada ; and the manners and customs of their ancestors are >naciously preserved. The villages and parishes have a general simitarity of appearance ; tnd although some of them are more extensive and much more populous than others, yet >ne description is sufiicient for all. They assuredly seem to be the very abodes of simplicity, rirtue, and happiness. In travelling, we pass along delighted through a beautiful rural :ountry with clumps of wood interspersed, amidst cultivated farms, pastures, and herds ; (decent parish churches, and neat white houses or cottages. The inhabitants are not only 'jpivil, but always polite and hospitable. Beggary and the squalid beings of other parts of Ihe United Kingdom are here unknown.'* t The firtt arrival at Quebec, in the season of 1833, was on the 9th of May; but it was fnot till the end of the month that the harbour exhibited its spring appearance of a forest of Iroasts, or that the wharfs and streets of the lower town displayed that scene of activity ;|which characterises it as a great commercial port. ^ In the ticiiutjf of Gaspi the spring is commonly from a fortnight to three weeks later than at Quebec : and this is attributed, not so much to the increase of latitude, as to the proximity of the sea, with its ices. Here, on the 9th of June, 1833, the thermometer fell Wo the freezing point, with showers of snow and sleet, and a heavy gale from the north. '^ Some remarkable instances have been given of ignorant commanders venturing up the /river, in thick weather, without sufficient precaution or taking soundings ; and one was* ^discovered who, by his reckoning, supposed himself by Cape Chatte, when he was actually ) 130 miles out of his reckoning, westward, in a space of 360, after having, four days before,' % seen th» west end of Anticosti.* I I THE NORTH SHORE FROM CAPE DE MONTS TO THE SAGUENAY RIVER. The next pirojecting point, westward of Cape de Monts, is Point St. Nicolas, bearing W. by N. t7i miles. Three miles N.E. by E. from this headland is Havre St. Nicoia^, I or St. Nicolas' Harbour : between these places, and 6i miles eastward of St. Nicolas, is a 'little river, called Godbret or Goodboct River, where the Hudson's Bay Company have a trading poet, and where, therefore, provisions may occasionally be obtained, but it affords no shelter. This place may be known by the fell of the land on the east, and clay cliffs on the west. * In the description of the lower part of the river, with Gaspe Bay, ftc, we have been consi- derably assisted by the instructions published by Nath. Gould, Esq., chairman of the North American Colonial Association : to the same gentleman wc are indebted for these remarks on the river in general. C ]0 ST. NICOLAS HARBOUR. ' ^■< 8T. iriCIO&A8' BAKBOV&*— At the entrance of this harbour vessels may occasionally find shelter from westerly winds. The land about it is mountainous ; and, if a ship be to the westward of the harbour, and bearing up for it, the entrance may be distinguished from the circumstance of its having all the land on the west dry and barren, the wood being burnt from the mountains ; but, on the east side, the mountains are green and covered with trees. To enter, run boldly in, between the burnt cape and the green one, steering North, and the low point, which forms the west side of the entrance, will appear like an island : this point has a wooden cross on it, which will be seen on steering toward it. The eastern side of the entrance is limited by a reef, one- quarter of a mile long, which stretches S.W. from the green cape; opposite to this reef, on the western side, is another; both dry at low water, but the largest is always to be seen. The anchorage is a little to the northward of the stream of the easternmost reef, in from 12 to 6 fatiioms. The distance between the points of the two reefs is about 1 mile ; both are bold ; 10 fathoms being close to the eastern, and 4 to the western, reef. Small vessels may haul alongside the rock, just within the entrance on the west side, in 10 feet at low water. At about 100 yards within the cross'above mentioned, a bar commences, which extends thence across the entrance, and has only 10 feet over it at low ebbs. This part is only two ships' length in breadth at low water, but the harbour widens inward to a large basin, where vessels can lie perfectly land-locked in from 10 to 12 fathoms of water, good ground, and on the S.W. side the water is deep close up to the rocks : this place is, however, a bad outlet for ships bound to the westward, as an easterly wind blows directly in, and the land around being mountainous, there is no getting in or out, in a square-rigged vessel, with canvas set. Those who proceed to the basin, must keep their canvas set, and borrow close round the point on which the cross is erected ; then shoot in as far as they can, and down with the anchor. To warp in, keep the western side on board. The bank to the southward of the eastern reef, and all along the shore, is very steep ; there is a depth of 50 fathoms at about 500 yards from it. Near the reef, in 20 fathoms, cod-fish are generally abundant. At St. Nicolas' Harbour the tide flows, on the full and change days, at 1 h. 55 m. Spring-tides rise 12 feet; neaps 7 feet. The flood, of spring-tides, runs to the westward about two miles an hour, and thus along-shore up to the Saguenay River. English Bay is 11) miles W.N.W. from Cape St. Nicolas. It affords no anchor- age. On its western side is St. Giles* Point, opposite the north-eastern point of the Peninsula of Manicougan, and which is the termination of the bold and rocky coast to the eastward of it, while that to the west of it is low and wooded ; and this circumstance will enable a vessel to ascertain her position on the coast, whether to the east or west of this part, and of her approach to the dangerous Manicougan shoals. MANZOOVOAN BAT and SHOALS.— This dangerous bay is 11 miles W. by N. from Point St. Nicolas. The shore between is bold and rocky ; the land high, and the water deep. The flood-tide sets strongly into the bay, and the ebb strongly out. The land forming the western point of the bay is much lower than any other near it, and may be readily known by its yellowish sand and clay cliffs, with a fine beach, and very flat for more than two miles off. The east end of the great shoal of Manicougan lies 1 1 i miles West from Point St. Nicolas. This end is of rocks, terminating in a spit, and dries at low water. The S.W. point of the Bay, called Manicougan Point, is 17^ miles W. by S. from Point St. Nicolas. From Manicougan Point the land thence westward trends in a curve, 12 miles, to Outarde or Buttard Point, at the mouth of the Outarde River, and the great shoal borders the whole, to the distance of 2j miles from shore. The tide of ebb and flood sets along its edges, but is not perceptible at more than 5 or 6 miles ofl' shore ; and on that part, off Manicougan Point, is a great ripple. On the shore, within the shoal, the tides ebb one mile from high- water mark, and heavy breakers are seen on its edges, with high reefs of rocks. To the westward of the Land of Manicougan are the River and Bay of OUTARDE. The latter is terminated by Point Bersiamites or Bersimia, which is sandy and covered with trees, and the whole is lined with extensive and dangerous shoals. Ships, in rounding Bersimis Point, should advance no nearer to it than two miles, as the shoal surrounding it is steep-to. Ships being up to Bersimis Point with the wind at west, and flood-tide, may cross over I THE SAOUENAY RIVER. II arbour vessels may ountainous ; and, if e entrance may be the west dry and side, the mountains the burnt cape and s west side of the II it, which will be ed by a reef, one- pposite to this reef, !st is always to be easternmost reef, io both are bold; 10 I vessels may haul at low water. ces, which extends This part is only d to a large basin, ater, good ground, ace is, however, a lirectly in, and the uare-rigged vessel, orrow close round n, and down with >re, is very steep ; ef, in 20 fathoms, ays, at 1 h. 55 m. to the westward • fords no anchor- sm point of the id rocky coast to this circumstance 3 east or west of I I I railes W. by nd high, and the ongly out. The lear it, and may and very flat for from Point St. ater. The S.W. oint St. Nicolas. Jiles, to Outarde >rders the whole, og its edges, but }IF Manicougan mile from high- cks. )f OUTARDE. iy and covered ips, in rounding 1 surrounding it may cross over thence to Father Point, and engaee a pilot for the river. Should the wind be at S.W. by W., keep the north land on board until sure of fetching the point. In Outarde Bay the ebb.tide is slack, and the flood strong. Ships may always get ,ground in the bay, but should stand in no nearer than two miles from shore. llie Manicougan, and Outarde or Bustard, are very large rivers, but unfortunately their jnavigation is much interrupted by falls at a short distance from the St. Lawrence. The Mwater of the Outarde is entirely white, occasioned by large quantities of impalpable sand ^and clay being held in suspension ; and the vessel, in sailing through it, by displacing the v|8uperlicial stratum of lighter and fresh water, full of these earthy particles, leaves in her [wake a dark blue streak, which may be traced as far as the eye can reach. This sand and :lay are the deposit of the rivers, which, in the course of ages, have formed the alluvial [peninsula of Manicougan, and also the dangerous and extensive shoals of the same name. iThe River Beraimis is navigablf for small vessels as far as ten miles from the entrance, and it can be ascended to the falls, nearly 40 miles, but it would be difficult for a sailing vessel to reach as far. Jeremie hland is 6 miles westward of Point Bersimis, the sandy coast extending between them. On the main, opposite the island, is a post of the Hudson's Bay Company, the houses of wnich may be seen very plainly from within the distance of 6 miles. Cape Cotombier is 5 miles westward of Jeremie, and off it is the Gulnare Shoal, dis- covered by Captain Bayfield in 1830. It is a narrow ridge of granite rock, nearly 2 miles long, parallel to the shore, and having from 2 to 3 fathoms over it at low water. Buie de Laval is 8 miles westward of Cape Cnlombier. Laval hland is in the mouth of the bay, and all within it is dry at low water. Vessels may approach this bay to within 6 fathoms depth, but to the eastward, between fVild Fowl Reef and the Gulnare Shoal, the coast ought not to be kept closer than in 30 fathoms. Port Neuf is another settlement of the Hudson's Bay Company, the buildings of which I are readily seen. It may be known by a range of remarkable clay cliffs, like chalk cliffy, between it and the Baie de Laval, the only land of this appearance in the river, and which, therefore, is a sure mark. Point Mille Vachet is 4 miles S.W. from Port Neuf; it is low and sandy, and the shoals off it contract the navigable breadth of the river, between it and Bicquette, to 11| miles. The N.W. reef of Bicquette bears from the point S.S.E. ) E. 12^ miles. To the west of it is the Baie de Mille Vaches, which is filled with shoals of sand and rock, the western parts of which are deep and dangerous. The bay extends to the Etquemin Islet, 12 miles S.W. | W. from the point. The coast west of this is bold and free from danger, but has no shelter. SAQUBNAT BXVBS enters the St. Lawrence between Lark Point on the west, and Point Vaches on the east, opposite lied Island, 23 miles westward of the Esquemin Isles. This extraordinary river, which was imperfectly known till the late surveys, is as remark- able for the great volume of water which it brings down to the St. Lawrence, as for the enormous depth of its bed, which is fully 100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence. It comes from the Lake St. John, and at Chicoutimi, a trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, which is 65 miles above its mouth, it becomes navigable, and 6 miles above which, to the rapids, the tide ascends. To Point Roches, 57 miles from the St. Lawrence, and 8 miles below Chicoutimi, it is navigable for the largest ships; and up to this part there is no danger in the river, the shores consisting of steep precipices, some of the head- lands rising more than 1000 feet in height. The current runs down with great force, the ebb-tide varying from 3 to 5 knots, according to the breadth of the river, which is from two-thirds uf a mile to 2 miles. At the mouth of the river, this ebb-tide runs at the rate of 7 knots over Lark Islet Spit, and the S.W. extreme of Point Vaches. Tadousac, which is in the entrance of the river, was formerly the principal post of the French, for trading with the Indians. It has declined, and now belongs to the Hudson's Bay Company. The harbour is off the settlement, a mile within Point Vaches, and is well sheltered ; but a heavy anchor should be cast close in-shore, on account of the eddies which sometimes set into it from the river. IS CAPE qilATTE TO GllEEN ISLAND. !■■ Acrou the mouUi of th« river there ii 18 to 30 fathoms, but immediateljr withMftbe depth increases to above 100. The current setting strongly over this bar, meeting with the spring ebbs of the St. Lawrence, cause breaking and whirling eddies and ripplings; and these streams opposed to a heavy easterly gale, cause an exceedingly high, cross, and breaking sea, in which no boat could live. On the flood at such times, there is no more sea than in other parts of the river. To enter the Saguenay, have the beginning of the flood, and sufficient daylight to reach Tadousac. Winds from the S.W. southwara to N.E., will take vessels into the river with the flood, but the N.E. is most to be depended on ; but whether von approach fltMO the S.W. or N.E., bring the western points of the Brandy Pots and White Island in one, and open to the southward of Hare Island, bearing 8.S. W. | W. Run upon this mark (and it will lead yon well clear of the Vachet Patch and Lark Reefs, off the mouth of the river,) until La Btule Point comes in one with Point liotf bearing N. W. by W. } W., which will clear the S.W. side of Point Vacbes Reef; Point Hot being the rather low N.W. point of the Harbour of Tadousac, and La Boule, ahigh and round-backed hill, forming a steep headland, 4 miles above Tadousac, and the extreme point seen on the same side of the river. Haul in for the last-named leading mark, keeping the S.W. extreme of La Boule just open, which will clear all dangers ; and when as far in as Point Rouge, bear towards the trading post, into the harbour, dropping your outer anchor in 16 fathoms, and the inner one dose to, or within, low water mark. THE SOUTH SHORE BETWEEN CAPE GHATTE AND GREEN ISLAND. Between Cape Chatte and Matane, in a distance of 11 leagues, the shore is all bold and bound with rocks. In proceeding up the river, after passing Cape Chatte, the first place of remark isUatane River, distioguished by a large square white house, and a long barn level on the top. This place may be known m>m within the distance of 3 miles, by its houses and a bluff cliff, close to the entrance on the western side. Many pilots live here. The River of Matane admits small craft only. The chief settlements occupy both banks, and extend about one mile from its mouth. The two remarkable mountains, called the Paps of Matane, stand inland to the westward of Matane River, and form the grand mark for this part of the coast. At 7) leagues to the westward of Matane River, is the western point of Little Metis Bay, a spot surrounded by rocks, excepting the entrance, and in which small vessels may find shelter from westerly winds, in S fathoms at low water. The coast from Matane to Little Metis is entirely barren. Little Metis is situate on a long, low, flat, and rocky point, with several white houses, extending about a cable's length to the N.E. This is noticed as a guide to the anchorage at Grattd Meti$, which is 5 miles farther westward. On opening the bay, (say close io-shore,) a square house will be first observed, near the water side; a mile forther, in the S.W. comer, up the bay, in the same view, will be seen the upper part only of a house, which is the establishment of Grand Metis. A vessel may close in with Little Metis Point into 6 or 7 fethoms of water, and run for Grand Metis, by the lead, in from 6 to 8 fathoms. Should the vessel be turning up, on the north shore, or in mid-channel. Mount Camille, which will be seen, should be brought to bear S.W. by S., which will lead from sea to the bay.* The cove of Grand or Great Metis is nearly dry at low water. A small vessel may bring up here in 3 fathoms, with the wind from S.W., but with a west wind it affords no shelter. The points that form these coves are very low, and cannot be distinguished beyond the distance of 2 leagues. Great Metis has a large rock in the middle of the cove, Little Metis has none ; and the latter may be known from the former, by observing that a round bluff rock lies at its entrance, on the eastern side ; not far from which, on the east, is a small hill on the mountain, in the form of a sugar-loaf. Grand Metis has risen into notice from the erection of saw mills. The mills are on a fall of the river, about three miles up. The river is a small stream, greatly impeded by rapids when not swelled by freshes ; and it has been found necessary to dam it with wicker- work and mud for a considerable distance, to keep back water enough to float the logs down to the mill. From the mill Uie deals are floated down a dall or trough to the basin, * MemU Cammt is 01 miles inland from the nearest shore. Its summit is 3036 feet above the level oftheaea> CAPS CHATTC TO ORSEBT ISLAND. el/witliia, the depth «tiog with the spring ipplingi; and these cross, and breaking no more sea than in nt daylight toraach I into the river with approach fkom the t Iiland in one, and >n this mark (and it mouth of the river,) 7. 1 W., which will low N.W. point of lilt, forming a steep ime side of the river. leof La Boulejuit ',e, bear towanls the •mS} and the inner tEEN ISLAND, lore is all bold and >f remark is Jlfo/ane il on the top. This s and a bluff cliff, le River of Matane extend about one of Matane, stand part of the coast. of Little Metis small vessels may tfrom Matane to :, and rocky point. This is noticed as ard. On opening the waterside; a !en the upper part IS The vater, and run for turning up, on the uld be brought to vessel may bring affords no shelter, ished beyond the :ove, Little Metis hat a round bluff tst, is a small hill 'he mills are on a fatly impeded by m it with wicker- to float the logs vgh to the basin, set aboTs the level )r sbipment; ^ ^ of the distance being cut through aoil and rocks 14 feet deep. lU produced atm spruce, and a very superior yellow pine. At about half a mile from the debouehe of the river is a rocky islet, forming a secara and picturesque basin. Over the sand bar, at the entrance of this basin, is a depth of 14 or 15 at low water, and ample room for two vessels lo lie stem and stern of each othei. The in is buoyed. The tide here, on the full and change, flows at ten minutei past two o'clock, and visee iro 13 to 14 feet. With a ship of great draught it is advisable to lie in fiithoms at low water, with the use at the east side of the River Metis open to the eastward of the islet in the bay, so the liver may be seen between them. The hif^h lamd of Bie mil than bt ju$t elm' of , « Origwd i some of the bouses of Little Metis will be seen, and Mount Camilla will Bar S.8.W. ; in such a mooring the swell is broken before it comes in by the short. The __ >und, being clay, is excellent for anchorage; and^ with one anchor to the eastward^ and iooiher to the westward, the vessel will ride in perfoct security. From hence, along the shore, will be observed, at great distances, the small white bouses ' the inhabitants, which are mostly occupied by pilots or fishermen, who have eultivated sail patches of land around them. Oocasionslly, when, from a wet summer, the haerest ' the westward has failed, these small formers reap a benefit by the greater backwaidtoass #f their seasons. Between Great Metis and the next inlet, named Coek Cove, will he seen the high huid Mount Camillb. The beaiinK and distance between the Covet are W. by S. S| jues; and, from Cock Cove to the projecting land of FiMer Poinl,' W. | S., 4| miles. lere will be seen a number of houses ; this place being the regular rendezvous for the pilots. Barnaby Island presents nothing remarkable. A reef extends from each end of it, inder which small vessels may find shelter. Between the island and the main the bank ia Iry at low water, but there is a depth of 14 feet over it at high water of spring-tides. With neap-tides only 9 feet. At the little Ritffr Ottey, 5 miles S. W. from Barnaby Island, fresh vater may be obtained. Harbour of i nuiri !;| At a distance of 3 miles to the westward of the Ottev, the coast forms the Harbc '^Bie, which affords shelter to small vessels from westerly winds. Two round islets Ihe eastern side of it, and it is one mile from them to the western side of the harbour. The < anchorage is midway between these and the west side, in 3 fathoms, the western point I bearing west. "% Nearly 3 miles west from Bic Harbour, and at the same distance south from Bic Island^ 'i^is Cape Orignal, or Arignole. From this cape a reef extends one mile E. by N. The high land of Bie lies S.W. by S., 3i miles from the N.W. extremity of the cape; it I is very remarkable when seen up or down the river, as it consists of high and narrow rid}(,es, I parallel with the coast, the summit being 1234 feet above the sea. The ISLE BIC is of moderate height, and covered with trees. This island is 3 miles in length, from east to west, and reeis extend from it to the east, west, and north. At three* quarters of a mile from the north side, is the islet called Biegvettet which is also woody. Bicquette is quite bold on the north side, and there are 30 fathoms at a musket-shot from it; but within the extent of a mile and a quarter to the west of it is a chain of reels, which i; are dangerous. Between Bic and Bicquette there is a passage, but it is intricate ; there are ' no marks for it, and it will be best understood from the chart. A lighthouse has been erected on the west end of the island of Bicquette, in the River > St. Lawrence, and a revolving light of the first class was shown thereon for the first time, , on the 9th August, 1844; and the light will continue to be shown every night from sunset to sunrise, from the 15th April to the 16th December, in each year. The tower is 70 feet high, and the light stands 130 feet above the level of the sea, the north-west reef bearing from it due West, 1^ mile. This light will revolve at regulated intervals of two minutes. A nine-pounder gun is placed near the lighthouse, and will be fired every hour during foggy weatner and snow storms. The S.E. Rce/* extends If mile E. by S, from the S.E. point of Bic Island, and the channels between the rocks and the island should not be attempted. The N.E. Reef, a small patch of black rocks, lies N. W. \ W. above a mile from the former, and 400 ftithoms N.E. by E. from the N.K. point of the island. 14 DESCRIPTION OW THE RIVEll. I west point of the The We$t Ormmdi of Bie are an extensive flat of slate, which partly dries at low water, ] the outer point of which is three-quarters of a mile W. | S. from the w island. The AtciDES Rock, on which the ship of that name struck in the year 1760, has only 4 feet over it, and boldao. This rock lies at a mile and three-quarters from the shore, with the west end of the Isle Bic hearing N.E. 3} miles, and Cape Orignal K. i N. 4| miles. Ten fiithoms of water lead to the northward of it. At a mile and a half from shore, and 14} miles S.W. by W. { W. from the we^it end of Bic, lies the N.E. of two islets called the Razaoes; these are two large rocks alwuys above water. They bear from each other nearly S.W. and N.E., one mile and a half distant. Ten fathoms of water lead to the northward of them. Basque Island, a small narrow isle, extending one mile and a quarter E.N.E. and W.S.W., bears W.S.W. 5 miles from the N.E. Razade, and S.W. by W. ) W. 20 miles from the west end of Bic : it appears round ; is bluff, and covered with trees. There are no houses on it ; extending to the N.W. from its west end, is a ledge of rocks, dry at low water, and steep-to. Apple Isle, a narrow barren islet, with rocks, lies at 3 miles W.S.W. } W. from the west end of Basque, and 2\ miles from shore. Between it and the land there is no passage. GREEN ISLAND. — ^This island, with the reefs that project from each end of it, is 2i leagues in extent from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W. Two families reside upon it. The most remarkable object on it, is a lighthouse which stands on its northern side, at about 1| mile from the N.E. end, and which shows a fixed light at 60 feet above the level of low water mark.* The bearing and distance of Basque Island from the lighthouse, are E.N.E. i E. 8) miles : and from the lighthouse to the extremity of the S.W. reef of Green Island, S.W. by W. 5|l miles. There is no other danger on the north side of the island titan a dan- gerous reef, which extends from the lighthouse 1^ mile N.N.E. i £. This ledge is a reef of rocks which are steep-to, and covered at high water of spring-tides. The other part is steep-to and rocky.f The ledge of Green Island, Basque Island, and the high land to the southward of Cape Orignal, in a line bear E.N.E. ^ E. To ships, on coming up and going down the river, the lighthouse appears like a ship, and very conspicuous. In the night the light may be distinctly seen at the distance of five leagues. The reef from the west end of Green Island dries to the distance of a mile from the island. The westernmost part is detached from the body of it, and the tide sets through the interval toward Cacona. This part is covered at a quarter flood. THE DESCRIPTION OF THE RIVER CONTINUED. Red Island lies in the middle of the estuary, off the mouth of the Saguenay River, and bears N.W. by W. ^ W. nearly 5} miles from the lighthouse on Green Islandf. It has a low, flat islet, of a reddish colour, without trees, and partially covered with grass. The reef, which extends 2^ miles to the N.E. and is 1^ mile wide, is nearly dry in some parts at low water ; the eastern extremity of this reef bears nearly N.W. by N. from the light- house. The depth decreases gradually on its eastern end, but the islet is bold-to on the S.W. The eastern end of the reef is quite cleared by keeping the lighthouse and beacon on Green Island in one, bearing S.S.E. i E.J * This lighthouse, according to an ofiScial notice, dated 2l8t Sept., 1809, will exhibit a light, nightly, from sunset to sunrise, from the 15th day of April to the 10th day of December, inclusive. From the lighthouse the extremity of Green Island Reef bears N.E. by N. one mile and a quarter ; and the extremity of the shoal at the west end of the island, S.W. by W. 6| miles; Apple Isle, E.N.E. 5 miles; the islet called Red Isle, in the middle of the river, N.W. by W. ^ W. 5| miles ; and the Brandy Pots, near Hare Isle, S.W. by W. § W. 15 miles. f The Archduke Charkt, transport, from Quebec, having on board six companies of the Nova- Scotia militia, was wrecked on one of the reefs, and eight persons perished. May, 1816. t The Minstrelhtig, Capt. Outerbridge, which sailed from Limerick, 21st April, 1841, with 141 passengers, emigrants to Canada, struck on Red Island Reef, May 18th, at 4 a. m. A heavy sea was then running, and more than a hundred passengers embarked in the boats, when the vessel heeled into deep water, and instantly went down stern foremost. All in the boats perished, with the brave and worthy captain, except four of the crew and four passengers. The survivors reached White Island, whence they were taken off by Captain M'Intyre, of the Wellington, and conveyed to Grosse Island. epinf bulhv dries at low waler, he west point of the ar 1760, has only 4 ■om the shore, with I K. i N. 4} miles. om the west end of rocks always above tod a half distant. uarter E.N.E. and W. i W. 20 miles trees. There are f rocks, dry at low VV. i W. from the there is no passage, tch end of it, is 2| pon it. The most at about 14 mile evel of low water are E.N.E. ^ E. reen Island, S.W. sland than a dan- This ledge is a I. The other part luthward of Cape •pears like a ship, le distance of five a mile from the e sets through the ID. lenav River, and land. It has a *ith grass. The ry in some parts f. from the light- s bold-to on the !>use and beacon }it a light, nightly, inclusive. From quarter; and the e Isle, E.N.E. 5 i^ miles ; and the ies of tile Nova- 1816. il, 1841, with 141 n. A heavy sea I when the vessel erished, with the irvivors reached n, and conveyed HARE ISLAND, ETC. J5 Lark Rbep, on the north side of the River, lies opposite to the western point of Oreen [sland, bearins N.W. 8 miles from it, contracting the navigation of the river to this breadth. It is at the S.E. extremity of a shoal, extending from Lark Point, the western point of pe entrance of the Saguenay River, as before described, and which bears N. by W. 3 miles im it. The space betwnn it and tli shore dries at low water, nearly out to the point; in can be avoided, as weii as those to .he N.E. of it, lying off the mouth of the river, by keping the western sides of the Brandy Pols and White Island in one, and open to the kuthward of Hare Island, bearing S.S.W. ) W.; but this mark is distant, and cannot Iways be seen. The NORTHERN SHORE of the River, from the Saguenay to Coudres Island, is }ld and mountainous. The granitic hills in most parts rise immediately from the rivtr, Arming steep precipitous headlands. Near the entrance of the Saguenay these hills are not l>ove 1000 feet high, but those of the Eboulemens attain an elevation of 2547 feet above fie tide-waters of the river. Cape Basque is the first mountainous headland S.W. of the Saguenay, bearing (.W. I S. 6i miles from Lark Point ; and about 1} mile northward of it is the Eelmfintd "^u Basque, a small rocky islet in the mouth of a cove, and bearing 4| miles W. by S. from Ihe S.E. extreme of Lark Reef, the shoal of which extends as far as this place. ) Basqi;e Road is a welUsheltered anchorage lying off this, the best position being with |0ie Echafaud bearing W.N.W. rather less than a mile distant, in 10 or 11 fathoms over ^lay bottom. Bajf of Rockt is about 2| miles south*westward from Cape Basque, and affords shelter ^nly to boats. Cape Dogi, 5^ miles S.W. } S. of Cape Basque, is quite bold and high; ^nd similar to it is Ciipe Salmon, which is S.W. } S. 9} miles distant from it. Further to ihe westward, about 1 } mile, is Port Salmon, which, like Port Parsley and Ktttte Port, the eastward, are only boat harbours. The settlements are nearly continuous on the banks from hence to Quebec. Cape Eagle is 5^ miles S.W. by W. \ W. from Cape Salmon, and is of the same ^character. ,1 Murray Bay is 6}' miles W. by S. from Cape Eagle; it is a beautiful place. The hay is lA mile wide, and nearly as deep, and a rapid and unnavigable river tails into the head of it, on which are several grist and saw mills. The bay is nearly all dry at low -water, except the shallow channels leading to the river. Vessels occasionally anchor off the bay, with Point Gaze, its east point, bearing W. by N. about 400 fathoms, Point Pit$t its west point, S.W. \ W., and Point Heu E.N.E. J E. The River at this part, between the Saguenay and Cape Eagle, is divided into two channels, by the Red Island and bank above described, and the shoals and reefs extending An a line along the middle of the river, at each end of Hare Island, in a N.E. and S.W. fedireclion. P The NORTH CHANNEL, though not that which is generally used, is clear, deep, and broad, and might be used advantageously under proper circumstances, as in the case of scant and strong N.W. winds; but with easterly winds aud thick weather, or at night, it must not be attempted, as there would be no leading marks, and the depth is too great and irregular to afford any guidance, besides the want of shelter or anchorage on the north shore. White Island, 00 Hare Island North Reef, is covered with trees, and bears from Red Island S.W. | W. nearly 10 miles, and from the N.E. end of Hare Island N.E. ) N. 1 1 mile. A shoal of rocks extends from White Island N. E. ^ E. 3 miles, and dries to the greatest part of that distance. Between the N.E. end of this shoal and Red Island, 6) miles distant, the channel is quite free from danger. HARE ISLAND, &c.— The east end of this island lies S.W. | S. a mile and a half from White Island ; thence it extends 7^ miles to the S.W., and is in no part one mile in breadth : in a great part not half a mile. Il is 250 or 300 feet high, and thickly wooded. At S. by W. one mile and a half from the N.E. end of Hare Island, lie the three islets called the Brandy Pots and Noggin. The northern Brandy Pot, high and covered with trees, is close to the southern one, and the bottom between it is dry at low water. The southern is a whitish rock, almost barren, the wood being nearly burnt off. The Noggin, which lies to the N.E. of the northern Brandy Pot, is likewise covered with trees. At low ; water these islets are connected by a chain of rocks, leaving a passage for a boat only. Half-way between the Noggin and the N.E. extremity of Hare Island, at half a mile fron) 16 HARE ISLAND BAKK. 1 |i I •bore, thfr* ii aho • rctf, dry at low waitr ; but all th«M art out of the Ikit.maj. Thi dapdi of 7 fathooM laadi dear of them. To the aoQih.westward of the Brandy Poll the south tide of Hare Island has a flat of hard oroand extendini{ from it, three miles in length, and about one-quarter of a mile in breadth. The whole of this side of the island is bound with rocks. HARE ISLAND DANK.~Thia is an eiiensive shoal lying above, and nearly in tha direction of Hare Island. It commences at about a mile S.E. from the 8.W. end of the island, and extends thence S.W. by W. and S. W. nine miles. There is good anchorage on ils south side, in 7 Athoms. On its northern side is H^aa Island South Rbbp, the greatest portion of which is uncovered at low water, to an extent of 2) miles ; the part always uncovered is clothed with ^ass and spruce-bushes, lying 2^ miles to the S.W. of Hare Island. The western extremity of this reef bears from that of Pilgrims N.W. by N. 3| miles ; and the eastern end is nearly north 4| miles from the same. OS the east end of the bank, about a quarter of a mile distant, is a small rocky 2-fathom Knoll, on which While Island will be just shut in behind the sooth side of Hare Island ; and at two>thirds of a mile from the east end of the bank is a 3-falhom $hoal, on which White Island will be midway between the Brandy Pots and Hare Island. The SOUTH CHANNEL, between these banks and the south shore of the river, is justly praferred for the common parpoeea of navigation. The tides are not so strong, nor the water so inoonveaiently deep, ae in the channel on the north side of the river : it has good anchorage in every part, and a sufficient depth for any ships. The breadth of the channel, in its most contracted part, between Hare Island Bank and the Pilgrims, is two miles, and its greatest depths 7, 8, 10, to IS, lA, and 16, fathoms, mud, sand, and graveL BARRETT LEDGE.— Tlie reef thus called is composed principally of two detached rocks, on the south side of which is a black buoy. This buoy lies with the northern extremity of the main land within Green Island, in a line with the northernmost high land of Cape Uvigaal, bearing N.E. by E. f E. { the summit of the southernmost mountain of the high land of Kamourasca in one with the scuth point of the Great Pilgrim Island, S.S.W. I W. ; tha eastern aide of the trees on Hare Island in one with the west cape of the Bay of Rocks, (on the north shore,) N.W. ; and two houses near the Riviere da Loup, S.S.E. j E. ; the latter are the only two houses between the church and Riviere du Loup. The rocks of Barrett Ledge bear from each other N. 03** E. and S. 63** W. one-quarter of a mile. The N.E. rock has 10 fieet over it ; the S.W. has 12. Between them is a depth of 7 and 8 fathoms. At a mile S.W. from the S.W. side of Barrett Ledge, lies a small bank of 10 feet, called the MUUk SAoa/, with the Brandy PoU bearing N.W. i W. distant a mile and a half. Near it on the N.E. are from 6 to 8 fathoms of water. This shoal appears to be the extremity of the remains of a narrow Middle Bank, extending thence two leagues S.W. by W., aud upon which there are still from 4 to Si and 3 fathoms, on approaching to the Hare Island Bank. In the channel between the Middle Sltoal and Brandy Pots are from 10 to 18 fathoms of water: but in that to the southward the general depths are 7 and 8 to 5 and 4 fathoms. On the Sooth Shorb of the River, the first point westward of Green Island, is the remarkable rocky peninsula of Cacona, lying S.S.W. from the S.W. end of Green Island. At a mile and a half south-westward of Cacona, and just to the northward of the stream of it, are the Pence Rocki, two clusters, occupying the extent of a mile and a half. They lie at about one mile from, and parallel with, the main, and are nearly covered at high water. On the south side of them there is a narrow 3i-fathoB channel : the depth of 10 fiithoms leads clear on the north; and Green Island and Cacona just touchmg, and bearing N.E.} £.,will keep 3 fathoms depth on their north side.* The PILGRIMS.— Five islets, called the Pilgrims, lie at the distance of 14 miles above the peninsula of Cueona, at a mile and a half from the shore. They occupy an * On the main land, within Basque Island, is the settlement of Trois PiitoUt ; on the same side, witbio Grte* Island, are the church and village of that name : and at five miles firom the latter are the promontory and parish of Cacona : next above which, oppoute to Hare Island, is the Riyiire du Loup. *' These settlements do not extend far beyond the river or front range, which exhibits neat farm- bouses, large barns, and extensive enclosures, bearing evidence of a good soil and industrious cul- tivation." %l KAMOURASCA.' If the Air.wa/. Tht land ha« a flat of hard of a mile in breadlh. »e, and marly in tht he8.W.Wofih« • good anchorage on ^ South Rur, the 2| miles ; the part nilei to the S.W. of •lurims N.W. by N. Off the east end of m Knoll, on which and at two-thirds h While Island will lore of the river, is e not 10 strong, nor erirer: it has good re Island Bank and * and 16, fathoms, > y of two detached with the northern lemmost high land imost mountain of at Pilgrim Island, h the west cape of f Riviere da Loup, Riviire du Loup, 3° W. one.qoarter en them is a depth ( of to feet, called i mile and a half, ippears to be the wo leagues S.W. pproaching to the >dy Pots are from ths are 7 and 8 to en Island, is the of Green Island, ird of the stream nd a half. They ed at high water, th of 10 fiithoms ig» and bearing nee of 14 miles rhey occupy an on the same side, I the latter are the iRiviireduLoup. hibits neat farm- I industrious cul- int of 41 milea N.K. bv R. and S.W. by W., and are based upon the Ainc du Loup (or oir Dank), extending from shore above the river of the same name, and on the exterior of which the depths are 3| and 3 fathnni^. They are connected by reefs that dry at water. The easternmost is the highest, and is covered with trees; the others are barren, of a whitish colour. Tliey are bold-to on the north side, but there is no passage for pping between them and the shore. ■From the N.E. or Great Pilgrim the Brandy l'(»is bear N.N K. 7^ miles,, and the S.W. of Hare Island N.W. by N. 41 miles Ilereal'oul the ebb runs downward at about miles an hour. ithoot the edge of the Banc du Loup is a sand-bnnk, called the Pilgrim Shoal. It is 'row, but 4 miles in length, and its general depths 13 and 14 feet at low water. A depth 7 and fl fathoms clears it on the north side. KAMOURASCA ISLKS.— This is a group of narrow islets, lying at the distance of two igues above the Pilgrims, on the same side of the river. The N.R. or Grand hie liears >m the Pilgrims S.W. by W. The bank between i» sleep-to. The island next to the Ireat Island is Burnt Itland, and the third of the larger isles is Crow hland. These isles 'e about three miles in extent, and one or two from the shore ; the bank within is dry nt iaw water. Great Island and Burnt Island are very steep on the north side, but Crow ^land is surrounded with shoal water. The settlement of Kamourasca is within the islands above described. Its church bean E. nearly a mile from Crow Island. From the latter. Cape Diuble bears S.W. ^ W. >ut three miles, but a long reef extends from the cape toward the island, the easternmost irt of which is covered at a quarter flood, and is little more than a mile from Crow Island, 'wo i^jles above Cape Diable is Point St. J)eni$ ; and a small cove on the south of this lint. From Point St. Denis to Point Oval {Quelle), the land trends irregularly six miles the S.W.* On the extremity of a shallow bay, at six miles westward from St. Anne's, stanr' the illage and church of St. Roque. The country between is occupied with settlements, and ID extensive mud-bank, with large scattered stones, uncovered at low water, extends in front of it. This mud-bank is included within the greater bank of sand called the 5/ioa/s of It. Anne and of St. Roque, extending more than a Ihiid over the river, from the southern lore, and limiting the channel on the south side. . Opposite to Point Ouelle, on the north side of the river, is Cape aux Oie$, or Goou ,/Jape, which is bold and rocky, forming the western extremity of Mal Bay ; Potntau Pies, 4^on the west of Murray Bay, 9^ miles N.£. | N. from Goose Cape, being the eastern ex- ftremity. Mai Bay is formed by a slight incurving of the coast; shoals extend a quarter of ' a mile off shore, and there is no good anchorage in it. Cape Martin is three miles W. by S. from Cape aux Oies ; between them is good :^ anchorage, and about midway is a large stone called the Orotse Rock. '■^ Vessels anchor in 7 fathoms, the Grosse Rock, bearing N.W., being here sheltered from .the tides, which run past Goose Cape with great rapidity, and occasion at times a strong rippling. * The Parish of St. Andri, or St. Andrew, with its church, are on the main-land above the Pilgrims. Hereabout the land rises very near the river, in a steep ascent, to an elevation Of from 150 to 2U0 feet. Hence to Kamourasca, a distance of about nine miles, the country is diversified by abrupt and insulated hills, whose craggy and almost barren faces are generally contrasted with well-cultivated fields. Kamourasca is a populous village, celebrated for the remarkable salubrity of its atmosphere, and is now the chief watering-place of Lower Canada ; as such, it is the resort of numerous visitors, of the first rank and respectability, during the summer months. Here are a few shops, and several good taverns. The next respectable village is a beautiful one on the River Ouelle, which likewise has its church and very neat dwelling-houses, &c. The church of St Anne stands at about a mile inland, 3^ miles south from the mouth of the Ouelle. Insulated cliSk characterise the scenery about Kamourasca. They are composed of granite, and generally rise in abrupt slopes, presenting rugged faces, thinly clad with dwart trees. The highest of these hills is the Montague Ste. Anne, which peers above a fine country at its base. To the west is the settlement of St. Roque de» Aunais ; and to the southward trends a bold but not very high ridge skirting the most luxuriant fields. At the eastern base of the mountain, very agreeably situated upon an eminence, are the small village of St. Anne, tlic parish church, the parsonage house, and u large stone college, three stories high, on an elevated and i^alubrioiis spot. D I 18 ISLE AUX COITDRES. ISLE AUX GOUDRES is opposite to Point St. Roqueon the south shore; and at thhJ Eirt the navigation of the river upward becomes intricate, from the numerous banks and ' lands which form the Traverses and numerous other channels. The island is 6 miles long and 2} wide; its eastern end is 2| miles S.W. from Capt Martin. The island, being cultivated, has a pleasing aspect ; it has as many inhabitants as it can support, having been settled at an early period. Its south shore is lined with rocks and shoals, extending a mile out from it. Its north side is bold, and Prairie Bay aflbrds excellent anchorage. There is a reef of rocks running off the N.W. of the island, which are all covered at hiffh water. The bearings from the end of the ledge are, St. Pierre Churcli in St. Paul's Bay Just open, bearing N.W. i N.; Cape Corbeau, the east bluff of St, Paul's Ray, N.N.W. i W. ; the waterfall on the north shore, N.N.E. i E. ; the bluff point of the island, S.S.E.; and the N.E. bluff point of the same, off which is a reef of rocks, E. i N. The North Channel to Quebec is to the north of Isle aux Coudres, and runs along the high northern shore of the river ; and on the south side of it is the line of shoals, which extend from the west side of Isle aux Coudres to Burnt Cape Ledge and the Bayfield Isles. The Middle Cuannel is to the south of the Isle aux Coudres, the entrance being between it and the Middle Ground, whence it runs westward along the shoals between it and the Seal Islands, and to the north of Goose and Canoe Islands, into the South Traverse. The South TnAVERSE, that which is generally used by vessels at present, is along the south side of the river. SOUTH TRAVERSE.— TAe entrance of the South Travene lies between a buoy, chequered black and white, on the edge of St. Anne's Bank, on one side, and the bank called the Middle Ground on the other. The narrowest part of the channel is indicated by a light-vessel, stationed at nearly 5 miles W.S.W. from the chequered buoy of St. Anne's, ind which is to be left, on sailing upward, on the larboard or south side. At nearly a mile W. by S. above the light-vessel is a white buoy on the Middle Ground, to be left on the starboard side ; and, at the same distance S.W. by S. is a black buoy on the larboard side. The passage between these buoys is only half a mile broad, and this is the most intricate part or the navigation in the river. The courses up, from these buoys, to abreast of a red buoy, on the edge of the southern bank, that of St. Jean, are S.W. ^ S. 4 miles, and S.W. by S. 2 miles, whence you enter the South Traverse, distinguished on the north side by a rocky islet, named the Stone Pillar, or Pilier de Pierre, which is always above water, and a quarter of a mile in length, at 2| miles from the south shore.* A revolving light has been shown from the tower lately erected on South or Stone Pillar,' since the 28th September, 1843, during the season of the navigation. This light will revolve at regulated intervals of 1 1 minute. About 2i miles north-westward of the Stone Pillar is a 3-fathom shoal, called the Channel Patch, lying in the mid-channel, and below it are several other patches, with from 2i to 3 fathoms. The marks for the Channel Patch, which may be passed on either side, are the north sides of the Goose Island Reef and of the Stone Pillar in one, bearing S.W. ^W., the latter being dist'\nt 2| miles; the north side of Goose Island (including the islands ( ' ise off it) and the south side of the Wood Pillar in one, bearing S.W. by W. ^ W.; and lastly, St. Jean Church S.E. i S. 2| miles. The Avignon, a half-tide rock, round on the top, and dry at three-quarters ebb, lies at the distance of two cables' length S.E. from the body of the South Pillar, with a depth of 7 fathoms close to it. The Pilier Boise, or Woody Pillar, a high round rock, with trees on the western part of it, lies at a mile nnd a quarter to the west of the Stone Pillar. At half a mile to the east of it is a rock, called the Middle Rock, dry at half-ebb. To the northward of the Piliers or Pillars are the Seal Re^s, composed of sand and shingle on slate, and having an extent of nearly four miles N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. To a considerable extent the rocks which form these reefs are dry at low water. The bank on which they lie is extensive on the N.E. toward Coudre Island. * Captain Bayfield says that the four buoys of the Traverse are laid down in every spring, and taken away in every autumn, at the close of the navigation. They are never laid down two years following in exactly the same place, from not lieing placed by angles, but they are always sufficiently near it to answer the purpose required. . i^l oullishoi»;aodattM, e numerous banks and OOOSE ISLAND. w At a mile and a quarter S.W. from the Pilier Bois^ lies the extremity of a reef extending nee to Goo$e lilandi and at a mile and a quarter S.W. | W. from the Stone Pillar is commencement of a ledge of high rocks, called tlie Gooie Itland Reef, extending thence miles S.W. i W., the western part of which is composed of rocks always above water, steep-to on their south side. GOOSE ISLAND. — We have now advanced to Goote Island, connected by low ow land to Crane lidand, the whole of which occupies an extent of ten miles in a tion N.E. 4 E. and S.W. \ W. The South Traverse continues on the south side of » island ; but is impeded by several shoals of 12 and 15 feet water, which require great caution. farm-house may b« seen on Goose Island, to the eastward of which, and close to low. ler mark, is a large rock called the Hotpital Rock. Two miles and a half to the west- xd of this rock is a long reef, dry at low water, but it is out of the fair-way, and close ng the island. The north side of Crane Island is in a good state of cultivation. On drawing toward it wa will see a farm-house (Macpherson's) on the east end. To the S.E. at half a mile from i, the entrance being lp> house, is the edge of the Beaujeu Bank, a narrow shoal which extends two miles thence shoals between it and (Jit^.E. 4 E., and having, on its shoalest part, only 12 feet at low water. Two new buoys have been placed to mark the channel between Beaujeu's Bank and Qpne Island, viz. — f A white buoy on the shoal off the south side of Crane Island, in Si fathoms low water ' ing tides, Mr. Macpherson's house bearing Nonh half East, distant one-third of a mile, the south side of Crane Island bearing South-west by West ; this buoy bears West f North from the black buoy on the south-west end of Beaujeu's Bank. Another while buoy on the south edge of Goose Island shoal, in 4 fathoms low water nring-tides, about 2 miles below Mr. Macpherson's house, Onion Island, bearing North- the Middle Ground itHst, and the south side of Crane Island bearing South-west ^ WesL I IS a black buoy oo 4 Whereby a clear channel will be left of nearly | mile, between the black buoy and the le broad, and this is wove white buoys, carrying 4^ fathoms, and which will allow ships, at dead low water >, from these buoys, — " ' " '^--^ '—'■ •- * ' Tean, are S.W. 4 S. listinguished on the f-re, which is always ith shore.* miles S.W. from Cape as many inhabitants as lore IS lined with rocks Id Prairie Bay affords •'• of the island, which are, St. Pierre Church the east bluff of Si, • i E. J the bluff point ^icb is a reef of rocks, es, and runs along the line of shoals, which Ige and the Bayfield '-- ""liWil 11 HI, he South Travewe. present, is along the ies between a buoy, side, and the bank tnnel is indicated by buoy of St. Anne's, de. uth or Stone Pillar, lis light will revolve I shoal, called the patches, with from "sed on either side, r in one, bearing and (including the '•W.byW.iW.; larters ebb, lies at r, with a depth of 1 the western part a mile to the east osed of sand and and S.W. by W. ivater. The bank every spring, and I down two years always sufficiently Mring-tides, to pass up or down without having occasion to anchor to wait foe water over tfte flats to the southward of Beaujeu's Bank.— (May, 1844.) On the south shore, opposite to the N.E. end of Goose Island, are the settlement and lurch of V Islet, and at seven miles higher are the cape and village of St. Ignace : between ! numerous settlements, and a shoal bank extends along shore, which is a mite and a half breadth, thus narrowing the channel-way to the breadth of a mile. BAYFIELD ISLES.— To the west of Crane Island is a group which may, with strict Sfropriety, be called the Bayfield Isles, in compliment to the gentleman by whmn they have pen so excellently surveyed. Exclusive of a number of smaller islets and rocks, the prin- pal isles are, Canoe Isk, on the north side of Crane Island, Marguerite or Margaret to e west, Grosse Isle, and Isle aua Reaus, otherwise Rat Island, and the Isle Madame. The whole, between Crane Island and the Island of Orleans, occupies an extent of 14 miles* ^here are several passages between the isles, but they are too intricate to be understood ^ithout reference to the chart. ^ From the west end of Crane Island a reef of rocks extends to the W.S.W. about half a 5iile, and a spit of sand, of 9 to 12 feet water, a mile and a quarter thence, in the same irection. From the S.W. side of Margaret Isle there is likewise a bank extending in a S.W. irection, the extremity of which is marked by a red buoy. On the north side of this island ll a good roadstead, with 8 fathoms of water, lying about a mile to the east of Grosse Isle. You enter from the southward with the red buoy above mentioned on the starboard, and a white buoy, three-quarters of a mile farther north, on the larboard side ; the course in being M. by E. Grosse Isle," which has a farm near its N.E. end, is about 150 feet in height; and the ^xt isle, Reaux, which is long, narrow, low, and covered with trees, has one near its west end. The Isle Madame is also low, covered with trees, and has only one habitation. The last two isles are wholly on a base of rock, and from the S.W. end of Madame the bank txtends 2^ miles to the S.W., and thus forms the western entrance of the Northern Traverse, 'I Off this island, as the law now stands, ships are obliged to anchor; from wbei>ce, after examination, they are allowed te proceed to Quebec, if not detained at the quarantirte anchorage," 20 MIDDLE AND NORTH CHANNELS. on the eastern side of the Island of Orleans. A ship should not approach it nearer than in ' 7 or 8 fathoms. On the Southern Land, above the Beaujeu Bank, will be seen, in succession, the churches of St. Tgnace, St. Thomas, Berthier, St. Vallier, St. Michael, and Beaumont. A large tract, in the vicinity of the Riviere du Sud, is in so high a state of improvement, as to be considered as the granary of the province. The western side of this river is dis- tinguished by the respectable village of St. Thomas, and the country about it is very fine, exhibiting churches and villages ; the houses, being generally whitened, are pleasingly con- trasted by the dark thick woods on the rising grounds behind them, the boundary of view ' beyond which is a distant range of lofty mountains. From the Land of St. Thomas a bank extends more than half-ivay over toward Crane Island. Its northern extremity is a mile and a half S.W. by W. from the south point of - the island. The bank is partly dry at low water. The Wye Rock lies immediately above the Bank of St. Thomas. This reef is about one quarter of a mile in length, in the direction of S.W. by W. It has only 3 feet over its west end, and 6 feet over the east end. The west end lies with the Seminaire of St. Joachim, a large building, with a tinned cupola and cross, on a rising ground near the water; on the north side of the river, just shut in with the east end of Reaux Island, and bearing N. SO" W. Its distance from the nearest shore is rather more than half a mile. On the South Shqre, at 6^ miles above the Wye Rock, and W.N.W. from Berthier church, lie the Belle Chasse Islets, two remarkable larg» rocks. They are situate three- quarters of a mile from the shore. The ground, all the way up from St. Vallier Point to Quebec, is foul and unfit for anchoring. St. Vallier Church bears from that of St. Jean, or St. John, on the Island of Orleans, S.E. distant about three miles. The Beaumont Reef, opposite to the point of St. Laurent, or St. Lawrence, on the Island of Orleans, is a large rocky bank, extending more than half-way over from the south shore. It is dry at low water, uneven, and steep-to on the north side, having 14 fathoms close to it. The MIDDLE CHANNEL lies between the shoals and islands which form the northern side of the South Channel, and the long line of shoals and reefs, which extend from . Coudres Island to Reaux Island, at the east end of the Island of Orleans. The entrance of the Middle Traverse, to the north of the Seal Islands, has not more than three fathoms at low water ; but having passed this shallow part, there is depth and room enough for the largest ships, until we arrive at the Bayfield Islands, where the Middle Traverse commu- nicates with the South Traverse by various narrow passages between the islands. There is plenty of water at all times in most of these passages, which will be best understood by referring to the chart, but the tides set strongly through them ; and though it would be possible to take even the largest ships up to Quebec by the Middle Channel, were it requisite from any cause to do so, yet they are too intricate and difficult for general navigation. The NORTH CHANNEL is a fine channel, and although not so 'convenient for the purposes of navigation as the South Channel, which is the most generally used, still it may be of service at times, as it frequently remains open, or free from ice, some time after the South Channel becomes unnavigable in the fall of the year. The western entrance to this channel is between the reefs, which extend a mile to the E.N.E. of the N.E. of Coudres Island and the coast at Les Eboutemens (land-slips), where iltere is a large settlement. The mark to clear the shoals, on each side this part of the channel, is Cape Goose and Cape Martin in one. , . St. Paul's Bay is opposite the west end of Coudres Island. It is sboal and rocky, with a great ripple at some distance off, around Cape Corbeau. Its western point is called Cap de la Bait, and shoals of mud and large stones extend off it for three-quarters of a mile, and which also extend for 11| miles to the south-westward at an equal distance. After clearing the N.W. reef of Coudres Island by the before-mentioned marks, there is a fine straight channel from 1|^to *2) miles broad, entirely free from danger, and ex- tending 18 or 19 miles to the Burnt Cape Ledge. The depth does not exceed 17 fathoms, and there is good anchorage towards the sides, out of the strength of the tides, which run stronger and with more sea in this long and open reach than in the South Channel. Til Ihis T« ^^ li l|loui ihe md # ISLAND OF ORLEANS. St oach it nearer than in sn, in succession, the hael, and Beaumont- late of improvement, i of this river is dis- about it is very fine, i, are pleasingly con- lie boundary of view y over toward Crane n the south point of This reef is about a only 3 feet over its >e Seminaire of St. sing ground near the ' Reaux Island, and than half a mile. N.W. from Berthier hey are situate three- St. Vallier Point to le Island of Orleans, t. Lawrence, on the -way over from the }rth side, having 14 form the northern which extend from ans. The entrance than three fathoms )om enough for the J Traverse commu- le islands. There )est understood by though it would be Channel, were it fficult for general convenient for the eraliy used, still it e, some time after tend a mile to the ;iand-slips), where this part of the shoal and rocky, ern point is called iree-quarters of a lual distance. )ned marks, there I danger, and ex- iceed 17 fathoms, tides, which run Channel. The southern side of this channel is a bank, extending, a3 before mentioned, from youdres Island to Burnt Cape Ledge. Its edge is nearly straight, and is easily followed. lie Neptune Rock is nearly 15 miles S.W. from Coudres Island, within the edge of this soutliern shoal, and is easily recognised. The North Shore is high, but the shoals extending three-quarters of a mile from Cap ie la Bate and Petite Riviere will be cleared by keeping the extreme western capes, louge and Gribaune, open to the southward of Cape Maillard, which is 3 miles S.W. of le church of Petite Uivi^re. Abattis is a landing place, 1| mile S.W. of Cape Maillard ; ^nd at the Suult au Cochon, 2 miles farther S.W., the shoals, which line the shore, cease. 'here is only one landing place. La GribannCf between Abattis and Cape Tourmente, a jistance of 1 1 miles. To the westward of the SauU au Cochon the mountainous and ininhabited coast is quite bold, the high and precipitous capes, of various granitic rocks, iiiig washed by the river as far as Cape Tourmente, where the Seminaire Bank com- lences, and the mountains trend to the N.W. away from the shore. Burnt Cape Ledge is nearly opposite Cape Bruld on the north shore, from which it is distant 1 i mile. The S.W. end is always above water, and is 4} miles S.W. from the jNeptune Rock. The Brule Banks are to the westward of the former, and are joined to it by shoal water. Their northern edge is only 600 fathoms wide and from 7 to 10 deep. The banks form a bay on the south side, but which has no passage through to westward. This must be taken care of, and the north shore of Capes Brule and Tourmente kept on board on inearing them. On the N.E. point of the Brul^ Banks, in 3 fathoms, the west end of the viBurnt Cape Ledge is in one, with the east side of Heron Island bearing S.E. .'I The Traverse Spit lies between the Brul^ Banks and the eastern point of Orleans Island, its N.E. part forming, with the S.W. part of the Brul^ Banks, the Eattern ., Narrows of the North Traverse, which is only 250 fathoms wide, and 4 fathoms can be tfcarried through within this breadth. The Traverse Spit, and the Horse Shoe Bank to the !^^N.W. of it, as well as the Brule Banks, dry, for the most part, soon after half-ebb, and itJiereby greatly lessen the difiiculty of the passage. ,i The mark for lending into the Traverse through the Eastern Narrows is, the S.W. point ■of Reaux Island and Point St. Vallier in one, bearing S.S.W. J W. From the Eastern ■ Narrows the channel runs S.W. by W. close along the southern edge of the Traverse Spit, leaving all other shoals to the southward. At the distance of 2i miles we come to the Western Narrows, which are also 250 fathoms wide and 44 fathoms deep. The Western Narrows are between the Traverse Spit and the West Sund, which is 1^ mile long and has 7 feet least water. The mark for leading through the Western Narrows, after having arrived as far as the ,,; east end of the West Sand (which will be when Berthier Church is just shut in behind the ji S.W. point of Reaux Island, bearing S. i^ W.,) is Point St. John and Point Dauphine, on 4 the south side of Orleans Island, in one, bearing S.W, J W. ■ Having cleared the Western Narrows, there is a tine clear passage between Orleans ™ Island and the banks of Madame Island, not less than two-thirds of a mile wide, and with good anchorage all the way to the South Channel at Point St. John, a distance of neatly ui, 7 miles. ^ )i The channel to the northward of the Island of Orleans has water enough for the largest I ships, but is loo narrow and intricate for general use. The Z8&AIID of O&ZiBAMS is distinguished for its fertility. The shores, ' in general, slant gradually to the beach ; in some places are a few rocky cliffs, but not of great extent or elevation : from the foot of liie slopes are large spaces of low meadow-land,, sometimes intersected by patches of excellent arable. Bordenng the north channel the beacli is flat and muddy, with reefs of rocks running along it ; but, on the southern side, it is a fine sand, with only a few pointed rocks sticking up here and there. The highest part of the island is by the church of St. Pierre, about 3i miles from the western extremity, and almost fronting the magnificent Falls of Montmorenci ; and also just above Patrick's Hole, on the south side, nearly abreast of St. Pierre, on which is placed the second telegraph of a ciiain between Quebec and the quarantine establishment at Crosse Island. Tlie central part is tiiickly wooded. The churches of St. Lawrence and St. John are situated cloJ^e down on the southern shore ; the distance between them is nearly six miles, and tills extent presents excellent cultivated lands, richly diversified with orchards and m^ 22 BASIN OF QUEBEC. 11 gardens, and houses at short intervals from each other. St. Patrick's Hole, a little to the westward of St. Lawrence, is a safe and well-sheltered cove, where vessels outward bound usually come to an anchor, to await their final instructions for sailing. On the west point of it is a group of very neat houses ; at several of which the inhabitants furnish accom- modations to the numerous persons who visit the island, from amusement, or from curiosity, both in summer and winter. Large quantities of grain, and most sorts of provisions, are continually sent from this island for the consumption of Quebec : among the fruits, apples and plums attain a much greater degree of perfection here, than in any other place of the lower district of Canada. Off St. Patrick's Hole, above mentioned, ships ride in 10, 12, or 14 fathoms, abreast of the inlet. The telegraph. No. 2, is just to the eastward of this cove, on the hijth part of the island. The ground is not good, but it is well sheltered from easterly winds. Here the river is about one mile and a quarter wide, and bold on both sides. At about half-way between St. Patrick's Hole and the west end of Orleans, is a shelf called Morandan's Rocks. They extend a cable's length from the island, and have only 10 feet over them. On the S.W. part of the west end of Orleans is another reef: this is dry at low water, lies close in, and should not be approached nearer than in 10 fathoms. On the opposite shore, a little to the eastward of Point Levy, is another reef, which should be passed at the same depth. Northward of Point Levy is a small reef, but close in, and out of the fair-way. BASIN OP QUEBEC. — The appearance of the lands forming the Basin of Quebec, is given hereafter, in the description of the river, from Montreal downward. We, therefore, only add here that it is one mile across between the high-water marks, with a great depth of water. The Harbour of Quebec, properly so called, commences at St. Patrick's Hole, and extends thence to Cape Rouge River, which is nearly three leagues above Quebec. The Port of Quebec comprehends all the space between Barnaby Island and the first rapid above Montreal. The situation of Quebec, the capital of Lower Canada, is unusually grand and majestic, in form of an amphitheatre. The city is seated on the N.W. side of the St. Lawrence, upon a promontory, formed by that river and the St. Charles. The extremity of this headland is called Cape Diamond, of which the highest point rises 345 feet aoove the level of the water. It is composed of a rock of grey granite, mixed with quartz crystals, (from which it obtains its name,) and a species of dark coloured slate. In many places it is quite perpendicular and bare ; in others, where the acclivity is lf>ss abrupt, there are patches of brownish earth, or rather a decomposition of the softer parts of the stone, on which a few stunted pines and creeping shrubs are here and there seen ; but the general aspect of it is rugged and barren.— (BoucAee leagues above irnaby Island and md and majestic, le St. Lawrence, xtremity of this feet above the h quartz crystals. In many places abrupt, there are >f the stone, on but the general 5 71° 13', from en not impeded cefully moulded ; the tables are ilicious fruits of the voyage up >lishing the trip on as far as the )r the improved !5,000. tween Quebec lipping in the as well as to n all masters, vered to each may always TIDES IN THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. On the days of full and change, the tide flows in the river as follows : — Near Cape de Monts, on the north side, at 1 h. A5 m. In Manicougan Bay, at 2 h. ; here spring-tide» rise 12, and neaps 8, feet. At Bersimis Point, 2 h. On the south coast, near Cape Chatte, the time is 1 1 h. Here spring-tides rise from i2 to 14, and neaps 8, feet. On the River Matane the time is 2 h. m. ; springs rise 12, nd neaps 6, feet. At Grand Metis Bay, the time is 2 h. 10 m. ; springs rise 13, and neaps 8, feet. Off shore hereabout, the current on the surface always runs downward, jfiom 1 ) to 2| knots. The time of high water at Green Island, is 3 h. ; spring-tides rise 16, and neaps 10, et. In the middle of the river, off the eastern part of this uland,;the flood from the north l^hore turns to the southward aud sets thence eastward off the south shore ; and thus below lie Isle Bic, the stream sets constantly downward, at the rate of 1^ to 2| knots as above nentioned. At Green Island, thetime is 2 h. 4.5 m. ; at Kamourasca, 4 h. ; at the Brandy Pots, 3 h. ; 'in the Traverse, 4 h. 30 m. Off Point St. Roch or Roque, 4 h. 50 m. Here it ebbs 6} hours, and flows 5|. At the Isle Big the stream never bends to the westward until an hour's flood by the Sliore. The neap-floods are here very weak ; and, with westerly winds, none are per- ceptible. A spruig-flood is, however, always found, within four miles of the shore, between Father Point and Bic. 'f The ebb-stream from the River Snguenay sets with great force south-eastward toward Red .^sland Bank. Off Green Island, on the opposite side, there is little or no flood, but a ^y«at ripple. All the way hence to Quebec, the tide, when regular, flows tide and quarter>tide : but yit is influenced greatly by the wind, and by no means to be ui;^3nded on, as to its running, piny where below Hare Island, where there is a regular stream of ebb and flood. f Between Barmaby and Bic the stream of flood sets in from the N.E. at the rate of about two knots ; then fair through the channel until last quarter flood, when it sets to the N.W. by the west end of Bic, and then gradually to the N.E. as the flood slacks. The whole of the ebb, both to the eastward and westward of the island, sets strongly to the N.E. ;.; The current between Bicquette and the north coast is generally very strong to the N.E., ^without any regular change. In the summer and autumn, as well as in spring-tides, this ^^current slacks, and, near Bicquette, ruus to the westward, during ^cod ; but, until the upland waters have all run down, and the great rivers have discharged the freshes, caused hy the thawing of the snows in the spring of the year, this current always runs downward. J From Bic to Green Island, on the southern side, the stream of flood is no where perceptible at a mile and a half from the islands. The ebb, or rather current, comes ftrongly from the N.W., out of the River Saguenay, and through the channel to the |iorthward of Red Island, and joining the eddy-fiood, before explained, increases the constantly downward course of the stream. Here it always runs in a S.E. direction, two miles an hour, with a westerly wind ; but only so to the southward and eastward of Red Island. Between Red Island and Green Island, the ebb runs from 4 to 6| knots. In crossing over to the north shore, this easterly current will be found to diminish ; for, on the north side, the flood is pretty regular, and the ebb much weaker. Eastward of the Razade Rocks, and near Bic, the eddy-flood assumes a N.E. direction, and sets strongly between Bic and Bicquette. To the southward of Bic, spring-floods fun at the rate of a knot and a half; neaps are not perceptible. Ships that come to the touthward of Bic, with a scant wind from the northward, must steer W. by N., to check the S.E. current, until they come into 18 fathoms of water, or up to Basque, whence they proceed for Green Island. The first of the flood, spring-tides, sets from the N.E. along the north side of Green Island, and strongly toward the west end of it ; then S.S.W. over the reef toward Cacona. In the middle of the channel no flood is perceptible. During spring-ebbs, the meeting of the N.E. and S.E. tides, near the middle cf Green Island, causes very strong ripplings : .and, to the eastward of Green Island, the S.E. ebb comes strongly about the east end of Red Island ; here meeting, the N.E. tide causes a high rippling, much like broken water in strong easteriy winds : but, in neap-tides, the floods are very weak, and in the spring S4 SAILING DIRECTIONS t of (lie year there are none. This renders the part of the rivet now under notice more tedious in its navigation than any other, unless with a free wind. , From the west end of Green Island a regular stream of flood and ebb commences^ which runs Ave hours upward and seven downward. At the Brandy Pots it flows tide and quarter-tide: and, above the Perc^e Roclis, on the south shore, it sets regularly up and down, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. From the Brandy Pots, the stream of flood sets toward Hare Island; and, near the west and N.W. with great strength, through the passage between the island and bank. Above Hare Island, the flood sets regularly up the river. The ebbs contrary wise. From the Pilgrims up to Cape Diable, the flood is very weak, but it thence increases up to the buoys of the Traverse, where it runs at the rate of 6 knots. The first of the ebb sets toward the English Bank and Hare Island Shoal, when abreast of the greater island of Kamourasca, and the ebb contraiy. In La Prairie Bay, on the north side of the hie aux Covdres, the time of 'nigh water is 4 h. 25 m., and here it flows six hours : the ebb-stream continues an hour and a quarter after low water, and the flood three-quarters of an hour after high water. The tides in the North Chaimel being half an hour earlier than in the Southern Channels, the first of the flood sets strongly on the St. Roque and St. Anne's Banks; and the first of the ebb sets strongly across the shoals in the middle of the river. In the Traverse, spring-tides rise 1 8, and neaps 1 1 , feet. In the SouTU Traverse, on the full and change, the tide on-shore flows at half-past four, but it continues to run to the westward until six o'clock, when regular in the channel. 'With westerly winds there is a deviation, but it is certain that the tide on-shore rises three feet before the stream bends to the westward: and this allowance must always be made in every part of the river. In the Traverse, the first of the flood sets from the N.N.E. • at the buoys, at a quarter flood, it takes a S.W. direction, and, when the shoals are covered at half-flood, at the Seal Reefs, it sets until high water S.W. by W. The ebbs, in a contrary direction, run with great strength ; frequently, in the spring of the year, at the rate of 6 or 7 knots. Between the Piliers or Pillars, it is high water at 5 h. m. The ebb here runs 6 hours and 50 minutes; the flood, 5 hours and 25 minutes. Both streams continue to run an hour after high and low water by the shore. Prom Crane Island the flood sets fair up the river, but the first of the ebb ofi* L'Islet sets to the northward for half an hour, then fair down the river, and at the rate of not more than 3) knots in spring-tide. At the Isle aux Reaux, or Rat Isle, below Orleans Island, it is high water at 5 h. 32 m. It ebbs by the shore seven hours, and flows five and a half. The streams run an hour later. Ofi' the S.W. end of Madame Island, it is high water at 5 h. 40 m.; springs rise 1 7, and neaps ] 3, feet. At Quebec the time of high water is 6 h. 37 m. Here it ebbs by the shore seven hours and 40 minutes, and flows four hours and 45 minutes. Both streams run an hour after high and low water by the shore. Springs rise 18, and neaps 13, feet. •n tl DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING UP THE RIVER, FROM ANTICOSTI TO QUEBEC. " In working up the St. Lawrence, the south shore may be approached within a mile, if the land can be seen ; but it must be remembered that the lead is of little use until you are past Matane River. On the north shore you have nothing to fear, while below Point de Monts, if the weather will allow you to see two or three miles off. After passing Point de Monts the intricate navigation of the river begins, and particular attention must be paid to the current, while making the board to the northward. In thick weather the lead will be the best guide between Matane and Barnaby on the south shore ; but, on standing to the northward, we found the current setting strong to the north-westward, particularly in the vicinity of the Manicougan and Bersimis shoals ; and in one instance, with an ebb tide, found a strong westerly set ofi* Point de Monts." A similar instance occurred to II.M.S, Race-horse, in the night of the 6th of .hily, 1838, At 6 p. m. FROM ANTIC08TI TO QUEBEC. u ndisr notice more ebb commences, Pols it flows tide sets regularly up ind, near the west d bank. mtrarywise. t thence increases The first of the St of the greater me of 'ligh water our anj a quarter in the Southern t. Anne's Banks; he river. In the flows at half.past ar in the channel, -shore rises three ways be made in loys, at a quarter half.flood, at the ry direction, run )r 7 knots. lere runs 6 hours )ntinue to run an ebb off L'IsIet t the rate of not er at 5 h. 32 m. aros run an hour m. ; springs rise lore seven hours un an hour after FROM vithin a mile, if ;' > use until you ile below Point || After passing -rf attention must ick weather the shore ; but, on orth-westward, n one instance, imiiar instance At 6 p. m. JH imouski Church bore S.W. 6 or 7 miles: at 10, while in the act of tacking, the struck a mud bank off the entrance of Bersimis River, having made a N.E. } N. course by |mpass 24 miles, and ought to have been 10 miles E. by S. from the river and five miles the nearest danger : the weather at the time very thick. he fogs are generally low, and you may sometimes see the high land over them ; at en they will clear off partially, for a few minutes, and come on aR;ain. In the latter le a bearing on Mount Camille and judging your distance off shoie, will give you ur position near enough to know how far you are up the r'.ver. When Mount Camille ars due south by compass, you are a little above Metis ; and, if the weather is pretty lear, the high land about Cape Arignole, near Bic, will be seen. It makes like a bold adiand, and can be seen at a considerable distance. I make no doubt that the current down the St. Lawrence is much influenced by the eavy rains, from the number of rivers that empty themselves into it ; and if the most articular attention be not given to the soundings, as well as the look-out that should be ept in thick weather, a ship will be set on the south coast before the land can possibly e seen. H.M.S. Race-horse, on the 7lh of July, 1838, ascertained her position at p. m. by bearing of the lighthouse on Point de Monts and chronometer sights, both greeing, the weather clear and an E.S.E. wind blowing, which soon brought thick weather, nd fell very light. At 1 1 h. 50 m. on the following morning the north shore was dis- inctly seen, and for 6 or 7 miles all round to the southward no land could be seen : it :ame on thick immediately, and a sight for latitude could not be obtained. The ship was n (he larboard tack, lying S.E. and going at the rate of two knots ; the water very smooth, ut the surface appeared much agitated by a current, the set of which could not be scertained. At 12 h. 30 m. the rocks were seen within a cable's length of the bows, and had more the appearance of a field of ice than of land ; the helm was put down, and the ship fortunately came round in 2i fathoms of water. Had there been a moderate wind, and the lenst swell, the ship would, in all probability, have been a wreck ; the high land could not be seen. We had 2) fathoms under the stern, and in two casts of the hand lead, going at the rate of two knots, had 17 fathoms, and at a cable and a half off shore no bottom at 50 fathoms. The weather suddenly cleared off, and we saw the high land apparently over the mast-heads. Sent a boat on shore, to ascertain our position, and found we were off Cape Chatte. The bottom was black sand mixed with the rock. On the weather clearing up, the barometer sunk a tenth; by 4 p. m. it had sunk three-tenths, the weather very clear and a light air from the eastward : at 7 it gathered up to the northward, and we had a very heavy squall, which reduced the ship to close- reefed topsail and reefed courses ; it lasted only about half an hour ; the barometer imm&> diately rose a tenth ; the wind then became moderate, and gradually hauled to the sotith- ward, with rain. We were always unable to make any allowance for the current, excepting the outset of the river ; but as to the setting on and off the shores, at any particular time, no allowance could possibly be made. The safety of a ship much depends on the lead and a good look-out. The lowest range of the barometer on this occasion was 29.50.* ^ Between the S.W. Point of Anticosti and the coast of the district of Gaspe, the current from tlie river sets continually down to the south-eastward. In the spring of the year it is strongest ; this is supposed to be owing to the vast quantity of snow which thaws at that time. In the summer, when the smaller rivers have lost their freshes, this current is estimated at the general rate of two miles an hour ; but in the spring, its rate has amounted to three and a half; which, of course, varies according to the quantity of snow, &c. Mr. Lambly says that there is a difference of two and three feet in the level of the River St. Lawrence, between the months of May and August ; which he imputes to the quantity of ice and snow melted in the spring. Those advancing toward the river, in the fairway between the S.W. point of Anticosti and Cape Rosier, with the wind from the North or N. by E., if ignorant of the current, may think that they are making a reach up, when really approaching the south shore. This is to be guarded against; particularly during a long night, or in dark and thick weather. It is always best to tack in time, and get out of the strength of the current which will be found to diminish toward the north coast. • Communicated by Mr. Jeifery, M.R.N. E 86 SAILING DIIIECTIONS In coming up, with contrary winds, and being farenougii to the westward to weather Anticosti, stana to the northward, and keep within three or four leagues of the land up to the extremity of the Cape de Monts. Here the lighthouse, described on page 7, will be found extremely useful. The land is all bold, and the tide along it favourable. After getting up to Trinity Cove, or the coast to the N.E. of the cape, the Hood will be found setting along the north shore. Should circumstances render it necessary, you may proceed to, and take shelter at, the entrance of the Harbour of St. Nicolas, already described, which lies W. by N. 5 leagues from Cape de Monts. Abreast of Manicouoan Shoals, at about two-thirds of the channel over from the southward, a strong rippling has frequently been found ; at about two miles farther north, another ; and at two miles more a similar one : these are visible only in Bne weather, and are supposed to be caused by the slack of the eastern current, which runs down on the south shore, and the regular flood on the north. In this part no bottom is to be found. Toward the I'oints of liersimis and Mille FacAei, the same appearances may occasionally be found, but there is no danger ; it being merely the conflict of the two streams. In proceeding upward, with contrary winch, a ship should continue to keep over toward the north shore, but takmg especial caie to avoid the Manicougan and Bersimis shoals. Thus she will avoid the current setting strongly down the middit: of the river, and have the assistance of the flood-tide, which is not felt hereabout on the south shore. The current is sometimes strong to the N.E. between Bicquette and Mille Vaches. If a ship has advanced up, on the north side, to Bersimis Point, with the wind at west, and a flood-tide, she may cross over to Father Point, and obtain a pilot. Should the wind change to 8.W. by W., keep the north land on board, until sure of fetching the point. With a FAIR WIND, and under favourable circumstances, a ship proceeding upward, on the SOUTH SIDE of the river, may And soundings, but very irregular, along the coast to Matane ; the shore is, in general, steep. No anchoring in any part : the depth 20, 30, and 50, fathoms, at one mile from the rock, and all hard ground ; in from 50 to 80 fathoms, the bottom is of clean sand.* * In the year 1817, Mr. Wm. Bain, a master in the Royal Navy, published an interesting volume, entitled, " An Essay on tlie yariation of the Compass; showing how far it is influenced by a change in the direction of tlie Ship's Head; with an exposition of the dangers arising to navigators from not allowing for this change of variation." In this work, Mr. Bain has noticed the frequent and re- markable aberration of the compass in ships, when approaching the vicinity of Cape Chatte. He says, " In the River St. Lawrence, the change in the variation should be most particularly attended to ; as it leads a ship, both in going up and coming down, on the coast most to be avoided. "On coming down that magnificent river, May, 1813, I found that it was necessary to steer a very different course from the opposite one made use of in going up, undeir very similar circum- stances, a few days before. I noted the circumstance in my remark-book, sent to the Lords of the Admiralty, on returning to England ; and, owing to that circumstance, and not having a copy nor log-book to refer to, I cannot state from memory the courses steered, though I remember the dif- ference to have exceeded one point, and that we had an eight and nine knot breeze, both in going up and coming down, with the weather uncommonly fine, and every circumstance extremely favour- ay for making such remarks. ^ Subsequent to the above period, one of our ships of war (the Zealous) bad a very narrow escape in going up that river. The compasses in the binnacle were so much affected by local attractions, that, had the fog not cleared away at the moment it did, the ship must have run on shore, not &r from Cape Chatte ; she was in 19 fathoms. " The gentleman from whom I had this information could assign no other cause why the com- passes were so influenced, except from the muskets placed around the mizen-mast ; but, on inquiry, I found that they had been there during the former part of the voyage ; and, consequently, this could not have been the primary cause, as the deviation must have been sooner perceived. I am, therefore, inclined to attribute the near approximation of the land as being the primary, and t^e local attraction of the ship as the secondary, cause, acting on the magnetic needle with a compound force. All the compasses in the ship, when brought on deck, were alike affected. " I have great reason to believe, that the non-attendance to the changes of variation in the River St. Lawrence, and perhaps in the vicinity, is one of the causes of the many losses that happen there. " Before quitting this subject, I may, perhaps, be permitted to notice an effect produced by the change of variation, but hitherto ascribed to very different causes ; and there is not an officer, I will venture to say, in the British navy, but will bear testimony to the truth of the following state- ment: — •' Wlien beating to windward, and obliged to tack pretty often, say in chace of an enemy, or en- deavouring- to gain a port, all seamen liave remarked that, every time the ship was put about, the vi'ind came round some points with the ship; so that, for instance, if the wind was at South, and lying W.SW. on one tack, the ship would lie only E. by S. or East on the other tack. At other to weather he land up )age 7, will ble. After II be found ilter at, the 5 leagues from the ther north, eather, and n thenouth Toward r be found, er toward lis shoals, d have the hen. id at west, i the wind oint. sward, on coast to 0, 30, and thorns, the ig volume, >y a change rsfrom not nt and re- . He says, tended to ; y to steer ir circum- >rds of the i copy nor ;r the dif- 1 in going ly favour- Dw escape itractions, e, not &r the com* 1 inquiry, ntly, this {. I am, , and t'iC ompound he River en there, ed by the officer, I ng state- y, or en- bout, the uth, and At other FROM ANTfCOSTI TO QUEBEC. 87 From Capb ChatteIo Matano, the course and distance are W. \ S. lOj leagues. When at 4 nniles to the north-eastward of Malane, you will see the Paps bearing S. W. \ W. : they stand inland to the westward of the river, as already noticed, and this is the best bearing on which they can be seen. Mount Camille will now come in sight to the VV.8.W., and mav be seen in this direction 13 leagues off. It hence appears to the nuiihward of all the b '' on the south side, and in the form of a circular island. Twenty-three miles W. J S. of Matane River is Little Metis Cove, described on page 12. If requisite to anchor here, give the east end of the reef a berth of 100 yards, or cross it in three fathoms : then haul up into the middle of the cove, and let go. Grand Metis, described on page 12, is dj miles W. } S. from Little Metis. The bank of soundings extends farther to the northward of these coves than off Matane, and 35 fathoms, with sand, may be found at four miles from shore ; but, beyond this, the depths speedily increase to eo and 70 fathoms. The edge of the bank continues steep as high up as Green Island. Along.shore, within 10 fathoms, the ground is hard, and it is difficult for a boat to land, unless in fine weather. From Grand Metis to Cock Cove, as already shown, page 13, the land trends W. by S. 10 miles. In fine weather, ships may stop tide between, in 15 fathoms. Fatuer Point, or Point at x PJ;rf.s, has been already described, as well as Barnahy Island, which lies to the westward of it. (See page 13.) Small vessels, seeking shelter from westerly winds, may find a depth of 3 fathoms, under the reef extending from the east end of this island in Rimouaky Road. Upon this reef is a large round stone, which serves as a mark. To enter, cross the tail of the reef in 4 fathoms, and then haul to the southward ; and, when the island bears W. by N., with the large stone N.W. by W., anchor at a quarter of a mile from the island. From Biirmby Itland, the Isle Die bears west, 10 miles ; Bicquette W. by N. 1 1 } miles ; and Cape Orignal W.S.W. f W. 3i leagues. Cape Orignal and the east end of Bic lie North and South from each other, distant 2| miles. The Cape bears from Bic Old Harbour nearly West, about 2^ miles. From the cape a reef extends East one mile. The eastern part of this reef and the western point of the harbour, in a line, bear K S.E. one mile. Soundings, &c. between Cock Cove and Bic Island.— From Father Point, the bank extends northward five miles. At that distance from land are 35 fathoms of water, with sand and mud. Hence, westward, all the way tu within one mile of Bicquette, the sound- ings are very regular. Ships may therefore stand to the southward by the lead, and tack at pleasure. They may, also, stop tide any where in this extent, in 9 or 10 fathoms, good ground. Jfa ship arrives off Father Point, during an easterly wind and clear weather, when no pilots are to be obtained, she may safely proceed along the land in 10 fathoms of water.* On approaching the Isle Bic, the reef extending from the S.E. of that island will be seen : give this a berth, and continue onward through the middle of the channel between the island and Cape Orignal. With the body of the island N.E. you may come to an anchor, in 8 or 9 fathoms, clean ground, and wait for a pilot. There is a spot on the island cleared from trees : when this spot bears N.E., from a depth of 11 or 12 fathoms, you will be in a good berth. The ground is hard toward the island. A ship off Father Point, during thick weather, and an easterly wind, without a pilot, may stand to the southward by the lead, and tack by sounding. In this case observe that, when in 10 fathoms, Bic will bear due west. To beat up from Father Point to Bic Island, you may make free with the south shore; times, we have been well pleased, under similar circumstances, to find the wind favour the ship » point or two in every tack ; so that, if the wind was at North, and the ship lying W.N.W. before tacking, she would lie N.E. by E., and N.E. upon the other tack. It is not a change in the wind which produces these apparent differences, but it is wholly to be ascribed to the local attraction in the ship. When the head is westerly, the north end of the needle is drawn half this difference westward ; wlien the head is easterly, it is drawn half the difference eastward." — (Page 89.) Mr. W. Forbes, in H.M.S. Vestal, June, 1838, experienced the same phenomenon ; the deviation of the compass being from 1| to 1| points tncreost; upon the amount of^ westerly variation allowed. — See Nautical Magazine, June, 1843, p. 428. * The pilots repair to their rendezvous in April. On their boats and sails are their respective numbers. The proper rendezvous is at Father Point ; but they are often met with at Matane and Cape Chatte, and sometimes lower down. 98 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR ns, by nearing it, the flood-tide will be most in your favour. The depth of 7 fathomi is a good fdir-way, and you may anchor in that depth all the way up to the island. When beating in, to the southward of Die, from the eastward, stand to the southward into 7 fathoms while to the eastward of the island, but approach no nearer to the S.E. reef than 9 fathoms. In the middle arc 12 fathoms. In standing to the northward, toward Bic, lack in 10 fathoms all along the island, and when it bears N.E. anchor as above.* THE GENERAL COURSES, ETC. BETWEEN CAPE CHATTE AND ISLE BIC, ARE AS FOLLOW: • A ship bound upward, and having arrived within three leagues to the N.E. of Cape Chntte, should steer W. by S. or according to the wind, allowing for current to S.E., as alrtady shown. Running thus, fur 24 leagues, will bring you to Father Point. Should the weather be thick, you may haul to the southward ; and if, after gaining soundings in from 30 to 25 fathoms, the water should suddenly shoalen to 20 and 15, you will not be up to the point, but may safely run four or five miles higher : with soundings, and the water gradually shoaling from 30 to 25, 18, &c. in three or four miles, you will be up with the point, and may make signal for a uilot, approaching no nearer than in 12 fathoms. Here you will be about one mile and a half from shore ; and will, if the weather be clear, see the houses. The shore is bold-to, and may be approached with safety. From Father Point to the Isle Bic, the bearing and distance are W. ^ S. 16 miles. While advancing from the eastward toward Father Point, and being off Little Metis, the high land to the southward of Cape Arignnle, or Orignnl, may be seen before the cape itself ur Isle Bic come in sight. From off Mount Camille, in clear weather, Bic may be clearly seen. To avoid mistaking Barnaby Isle for that of Bic, observe that, in thick weather, a ship cannot approach the liind, near Father Point, without gradually shoaling the water; consequently if, while keeping the lead going, you come into 9 fathoms, and make an island suddenly, it must be Barnaby ; or, if falling in with an island on any bearing to the westward of W.S.W., one cast of the lead will be sufficient to ascertain which it is ; for, with Barnaby from W.S.W. to west, you will have from 7 to 5 fathoms only; ^ut with Bic on the same bearings are from 15 to 12 fathoms. If, with the lead kept going, and no soundings be found, you suddenly fall in with an island to the southward, it must be Bicquette, which is now better distinguished by the light- tower erected in 1844, as described on page 13. With this island S.W. half a mile> there are 16 futiioms of water. At two miles east from it are 10 fathoms, and a ship advancing into this depth, from the deeper water, may either haul off to the northward, and wait for clear weather, or proceed, by sounding around the reef from the east end of Bic ; steer thence west two miles, and come to an anchor, within the island, in 12 or 11 fathoms. At 4 miles north of Bicquette are 50 fathoms of water. With an easterly wind, if requisite to anchor on the south side of Bic, to proceed from windward, run boldly to the southward, and look out for the reef extending from the east end of the island ; the latter may be seen, being always above water. Give the reef a berth of a quarter of a mile, and run alon^, in mid-channel, until Cape Orignal bears S.S.E., tlie body of the island then bearing N.N.W. In 10 or 11 fathoms is a large ship's berth, the ground clear and good. Small vessels may run up, until the island bears N.E. in 9 fathoms, at about a quarter of a mile from the island ; but here the ground is not so clear as in the deeper water. Fresh water is obtainable in the cove just to the westward of the east end of the island. If, during a westerly wind, a ship siiould be to the windward of the island, and it be required to bear up, in order to anchor, stand to the southward, into 11 fathoms ; then run down and anchor, as above directed; but particularly noticing that, with little wind, 10 fathoms is the proper depth of the fair-way, and that the last quarter-flood, and all the ebb, sets strongly between Bicquette and Bic. • A family (that of Madame Petit) is settled at S.S.W. from Bic, in a small cove at the bottom of a hill 1236 feet in height. Here, and on liic Island, water may be had. The next parish, west- ward, is Trois Pistoles, and at tliis plarc provisions may be obtained. Between these places are no houses or settlements, but from the latter to Quebec are regular stages. Passengers wishing to quit the ship at Bic, in order to proceed by land, by going to Madame Petit's house, may lind a guide to take them through the wood to Truis Pistoles, or may take a boat up to the latter. (1818.) thomi 18 a li. When ard into 7 reef llian I Bic, lack HATTE ',. of Cape S.E., as Stiuuld jndings in vill not be the water p with the ns. Here clear, see im Father Metis, the cape itself be clearly weather, a be water ; make an ring to the it is ; for, ^ut with n with an ' the light, nile, there advancing d wait for 3ic; steer oms. At ceed from n the east he reef a ;nal bears Tge ship's ears N,E. is not so stward of and it be then run wind, 10 1 the ebb, bottom of rish, west- ices are no ing to quit a guide to THE UIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE, UPWARD. 10 Should you, with the wind eatterlu, be too far to (he westward to fetch round the . end of Bic, in order to gain th« anchorage, give Bicquette a berth of half a mile, then run up until the west end of Bic beam S.E., when Cape Orignal will be open of it. The latter mark leads to the westward of a reef tiiat covers at a quarter tide, and extends W.8.W. one mile from Bicquette. Another reef, always in sight, lies between the former and Bicquette. By hauling round to the southward, with Cape Orignal open, you will pass athwart the opening between Bic and Bicquette, in from 16 to 12, 10, and fathoms; (he water thence shoalens into 6 fathoms, on the spit of mud and sand lying S.W. by W. from Bic, one mile. After crossing this spit, you will deepen into 9 and 10 fathoms, when the passage will be open, and you may come to an anchor. The N.VV. ledn of Bic, the west end of that isle, and Cape Orignal, are nearly in a line when bearing S.HI When beating into Bic, from the westward, while standing to the southward, do not shut Mount Camille with Cape Orignal ; in standing to tlie northward, do not shut Mount Camille with the Isle Bic, Bank of Soundings. — In the offing, between Bamaby and Bic, are regular soundings, decreasing from 35 to 30 fathoms, generally of clean ground. Ships may, therefore, anchur in any depth, but no nearer than a mile and a half, with Bic bearing from W.S.W. to S.W., as otherwise, the channel on the south of that island will not be open ; and, with a sudden shift of wind, you may not be able to quit the island. At N. W. from the eastern extremity of the- S. G. reef of Bic, and just to the southward of the stream of Bicquette, is the N.E. reef, a dargerous ledge, seen at low-water, spring- tides only. To avoid it, give Bic the berth of a nile. Westward of Bic the edge of the Bank of Soundings trends to the S.W.-ward u*^ to Basque Isle, and ships may therefore Mtand safely to the southward by the load, 12 fathoms being the fair-way. ISLE BIC TO GREEN ISLAND. — From the Isle Bic, Green Island bears S.W. by W. i W. 9h leagues: and the course will therefore be from W.S.W. to S.W. according to the distance northward from Bic, &c. In this course and distance, you pass the Alcides Rock, the Razades, Basque, and Apple Island, which have been described in page 14. From the rocks of Apple Island to the eastern reef of Green Island, the bearing and distance are W. by S. 2 miles. This reef extends nearly a mile from the trees on the east end of Green Island, and is always uncovered. The small channel on the south side of Green Island is nearly dry at low water. The edge of the bank is steep to the northward of the Razades, &c. ; but from 35 fathoms, inward, there arc gradual soundings. Between Bic and Green Island there is anchorage all the way in 14 fathoms ; and for small vessels, in fine weather, in 9 fathoms. If up to the east end of Green Island, and the tide be done, you may anchor in 10 fathoms, off the reef, and in the stream of the ledge extending N.E. by N. from the lighthouse point, at the distance of a mile from the extremity of that shoal. Between Bic and Basque the ground is all clean ; but thence to Green Island it is foul.. A small vessel may find shelter under the east end of Basque, in 2} fathoms at low water, giving the east end of the reef extending from that island the berth of a quarter of a mile. The anchorage is with the island bearing W. by S. The LIGHTHOUSE and reefs about Green Island have been already described in page 15. The lighthouse bearing S.W. by W. leads safely up to Green Island. The high land to the southward of Cape Orignal kept open to the northward of Basque Island, leads clear of the lighthouse ledge. With the lighthouse bearing S.W. by S., this ledge will be exactly between the ship and lighthouse. Between the lighthouse and the west end of Green Island, in fine weather, you may stop tide in 20 or 25 fathoms, close to the north side ^ the island: but, if the wind be fresh, the ground will be found to be bad for holding, and too near the shore. During N.E. winds, small vessels may anchor between the S.W. reef and Cacona, in 4 fathoms; but it will be better to bear up for the Brandy Pots, lest they be caught by adverse weather, &c. Red Island bears from the lighthouse of Green Island N.W. by W. ^ W. nearly 5J miles. The eastern extremity of its extensive reef bears from the lighthouse nearly N.W. by N., and is cleared by the lighthouse and beacon on Green Island in one, bearing S.S.E. i E. When coming up in the night, the light should not, therefore, be brought to the eastward of S. by E., until you are certainly within five miles of it. If, with the light beating S. by E. you cannot make free to enter the Narrows, wait for daylight; and, should the wind be scant from N.W., you may then borrow on the south side of Red Island, but til 30 SAILrNG DIRECTIONS FOR *n u to have White Island open twice its own breadth from the north side of Hare Island. On drawing to the westward, you may approach the shoal of While Island by the lead, remembering that the ebb-tide sets strongly down between White hland Shoal and Ked Island, and the flood in the contrary direction. A vessel may anchor, in fine weather, on the south side of Red Island Reef, in 1 2 fathoms, at the distance of about three- quarters of a mile. The tide hereabout, as already shown, sets in all directions. The SOUNDINGS between Green Island and Red Island are very irregular. At a mile from each are nearly 30 fathoms of water. The water of this channel, during ebb-tide, with an easterly wind, appears broken, but there is no danger. The NORTH COAST.— The Point de Milk Vacha bears from Dicquette N. by W. 4) leagues. The extensive shoal, which surrounds this point, commemes off the river of Port Neuf, on the east. The southern extremity of the shoal is a mile from shore, and is very steep-to. The greater part of the shoal is dry at low water. Above the point the land forms the BeBrs S.G. | E. about a mile and a half from the iirandy Pots, lietween the Middle Ground and Hare Island are 10 and 16 to 'iO iuthomflood, allow for a set to S.W. by W., and be sure always to keep the south bank on board. Above the Piliers, or Pillars, the tide sets fair up the river. In beating into and through this passage, be careful and tack from each side on the first shoal-cast of the lead : but most so to the northward, on the edge of the Middle Ground. Ten fathoms is near enough to the bank : and it is to be remembered, that the ship will always go farther over toward the Middle Bank than to the point of St. Roque Shoal. Anchorage. — Between the Brandy Pots and Traverse, there is anchorage all along the English Bank, and upon the edge of the flat on the south side, between the Pilgrims and the greater Kamourasca^Isle, in 9 fathoms: under the Pilgrims in 3 fathoms; off Cape Diable, in 10 fathoms ; and thence, along the flat, up to the buoys. Should the flood be done, when a ship is in the Narrows, or between the buoys, or if any occurrence render it necessary to anchor thereabout, instead of coming-to in the channel, run below either buoy, and come-to there, in 7 fathoms, on either side. The tides will be found much easier after half-ebb below the buoys than between them. In the deep water the tides here run very strong. Should the wind be inclinable to the southward, anchor to the southward of the stream of the black buoy, in 7 fathoms. Should a ship be a mile above the buoys, under similar circumstances, she should anchor on the edge of the South Bank, in 7 fathoms, with a good scope of cable before the tide comes strong ; for, if the anchor once starts, you may have to cut from it, as it seldom takes hold again, the grounds hereabout being foul and unfit for holding. Near the Pillars the tides are much easier than below ; at and above them, setting at the rate of not more than 3} miles an hour. Ships bound down, with easterly winds, may anchor at two miles to the north-eastward of the South Pillar, in 7 fathoms ; or, to the southward of it, in the same depth, with good ground. STONE PILLAR, or Pilier de Pierre, to Crane Island. — From abreast of the Stone Pillar, or of the Avignon Rock, the direct course and distance to Crane Island, are S.W. i W. 4 leagues. On this course you pass Goose Island, and arrive at the Beaujeu Bunk, the channel to the south of which is that generally used ; the depth in it is irregular, varying from 6 to 3 fathoms ; and there are two rocky patches of 2^ fathoms in the way, and difHcult to avoid. The marks for passing the southern edge of the Beaujeu Bank, along the eastern half of its length, are, the Stune Pillar, its own breadth open to the south- ward of Goose Island Reef; anc' for the western part of the bank, which turns up slightly to the northward towards Crane Island, Point St. Vallier in one with the south side of Crane Island. The south side of the channel is a muddy flat, of 3 and 2 fathoms, with regular soundings toward it. There is good anchorage all the way up to Crane Island. Stiind no nearer toward Goose Island Reef than 10 fathoms ; but above it you may stand toward the island to 7 fathoms. (See page 19.) When up to the body of Crane Island, you may approach safely, as it is bold and clear, with 7 fathoms close to the rocks. Anchorage. — From off the Pillars to Crane Island, there is all the way good and clean ground. There is, also, a good road off the body of Crane Island, in 8 fathoms. The best road in the river, during easterly winds, is at a mile to the westward of Crane Island : and TllE RIVJill OF ST. LA WHENCE, UPWAUI). 33 •e several way: the hward or he depths , into tlie Uockf the vhich you bg, strike eping the the water eping the e flood, as more than bank on ide on tlie le Middle at the ship ^ue Shoal. all along le Pilgrims off Cape J, or if any le channel, des will be deep water , anchor to be a mile >f the South ; for, if the tlie grounds etting at the rth-eastward , with good )reast of the Island, are the Beaujeu is irregular, in the way, aujeu Bank, to the south- s up slightly outh side of ar soundings id no nearer rd the island )ld and clear, od and clean IS. The best Island : and ships bound downward, if at the Pillars, and caught by strong easterly winds, had better run back to this place, than ride below, and risk the loss of anchors. CRANE ISLAND to POINT ST. VALLIER.--The direct couree and distance from Crane Island to Point St. Vallier, are from W. by S. to W.S.W, four leagues. Retwtea are the mud bank of St. Thomas, the Wye Ilocks, the Belle-Chasse Islets, and the bank of Grosse Island. For description, seepage 19. The Bank of 8t. Thomas is above two miles broad, and is dry at low water, nearly lo ii.s northern edge, which is very steep, and the marks for clearing it are Belle-Chasse Island and Point St. Vallier touching. When St. Thomas's Church bears S.E. ) E. you will be abreast the point of the bank called Margaret's Tail, having a red buoy, and may tlience steer directly up, W.S.W. Tb^ mark for the southern edge of Margaret s Tail Bank is, the S. side of Ilaystack Island and Crane Island Church in one, bearing E.N.E. To avoid the Wye Rocks, never stand tu the southward of six fathoms in tlte night : and by day, observe that the long mark is to keep Belle-Chasse Islets ju.st open to the southward of Point St. Vallier. They are out of the way of vessels, with a fair wind, and the cross mark for them is the Seminaire on the north shore in one wiih the E. point of Keaux Island, and Crow Island just open to the westward of Middle Island. To the west of Margaret's Tail is a narrow rocky shoal called Crosse Patch, with 7 feet least water ; between this shoal and Margaret's Tail is a channel 270 fathoms wide, and 5 fathoms deep, leading to the Quarantine Establishment on the southern side of Grosse Island. For the guidance of the numerous vessels which stop there, a red buoy has been placed on the S.W. end of Margaret's Tail, as before mentioned, and also a white buoy on the N.E. of Grosse Patch ; but in the absence of buoys, the east points of Grosse Island and the Brothei-s in one, bearing N. by E., will lead through. There is a passage to the west of Grosse Patch, between it and the island, but care must be taken to avoid a small rock, with 7 feet least water, lying 180 fathoms off Grosse Island, and on which a black buoy has been placed. When above Margaret Island, stand no farther to the northward than into 6 fathoms, lleaux or Rat Island and Madame are flat to the southward ; 7 fathoms will be near enough to both. The south side of the channel, up to Belle-Chasse, is all bold ; 8 fathoms are close to it, with 7, 8, 9, and 5, fathoms, quite across. There is good clean anchoring- ground, and easy tides, all the way. When up to Belle-Chasse, stand no nearer to these islets than 6 fathoms, and to Madame than 6 fathoms. The shoal extending from Madame has already been noticed, p. 19. The mark for clearing the southern side of Madame Bank, as well as tlie Grosse Island Tail and Patch, is, Race Island kept just open to the southward of Margaret Island. The mark for the S.W. extreme, which is the point of the entrance of the North Traverse, is, the north side of Reaux Island just open to the northward of Madame Island, bearin)r N.E. J £., and St. Vallier Church bearing S. i E. The cross mark for clearing it to the S.W. is, Berlhier Church and the west end of Belle-Chasse Island in one. The NoRTH.CiiANNEL and Traverse and the Middle Traverse are but seldom used, and the description of them will be found on p. 20. ST. VALLIER to QUEBEC— From the Point of St. Vallier lo that of St. Laurent, or St. Lawrence, in Orleans, the course and distance are from W.S.W. to S.W. by W. 9} miles. Both sides are bold ; 10 fathoms in the fair-way from Orleans, and 8 fithoms from the south shore. Ships may anchor toward the island, in from 16 to 10 fathoms. The Shoal of Beaumont, described in page 20, is sleep-to. Make short boards until you are above Point St. Lawrence, when you will be above it, and may safely stand to the southward into 10 fathoms. From Point St. Lawrence lo Point Levy, the course and distance are W. by N. two leagues. At a mile and a half westward from St. Lawrence's church is St. Patrick's Hole. {See page 22.) Here in about 10 fathoms, is the fair-way to tack from. The depth in the middle is 10 fathoms. From off Point Levy to Quebec, the course is W.S.W., and the distance about two miles. The shoals of Beauport, on the north side, may be easily avoided : in r 4/. I0«. 8A ,, If above 250 tons 5/. 10s, 36 RATES FOR TOWING VESSELS FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. To Montreal and above From Montrenl and above Three Rivers. Three Riven. 11/. currency. For vauels not exceeding 200 tons 7/. 1 0<. currency. 13/. ,. If above 200, and not exceeding 260 tons* • • • 8/. 16«. 16/. „ If above 250 ions 10/. 15<. Pilots are at liberty to leave vessels forty-eight hours after they anive at the place oi' their destination. RATES CHARGED FOR TOWING VESSELS BY THE STEAMERS FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. Breadth 9 ft. draft pay each upwards. For each od- ;ditional foot over 9 flset. DRAFT OF WA'1"EK ON EACH VKSSEL. of ;Beam. 10 feet. 11