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Lorsque ie document e3t trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 t in 111 < O z o _l 2 o a. Z < o a: 3 O > i m- o. in S' TSM' Paradise; \ ^-^ ■ ^ ' ■ a.\riM. UJ < o z O _i z o a. Z < o Zi o 1 8 8 .^■. •V- I THE SPORTSMAN'S Paradise; OR, o 0. •< THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. BY B. A. WATSON, A.M., M.D. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANIEL C. AND HARRY BEARD. PHILADELPHIA : J- B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY. 1888. 15G299 ■I m'^o^^^^/} Copyright, 1887, by J. 15. LippiNCOTT Company. 599 AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIHED TO REV. THOMAS M. KILLEEN, A STEADFAST FRIEND, AN AGREEABLE COMrANION, AND A TRUE SPO.'tTSMAN, BY THE AUTHOR. I/J> PREFACE. The acme of pleasure can only be attained by the sportsman when his confrires are permitted to share with him in the excitement of the chase. In this respect the chase may be compared to a good dinner, which is always most enjoyable when partaken of in the company of con- genial spirits. A book may likewise be further compared to a dinner, since the first chapter is commonly introduc- tory to the better parts which come in the regular order of the courses, while a narrative which produces no pleas- urable excitement for the reader is like a dinner without wine. This mum has been prepared for the general reading public, but it is thought by the author that it may be es- pecially enjoyed by sportsmen and the rising generation of boys, who frequently find more pleasure in the perusal of books truthfully delineating the excitement of the chase than in reading those of fiction. The author is deeply indebted to the accomplished artist, Dan. C. Beard, of New York, who has so greatly assisted him m the presentation of the more interesting parts of this narrative, and also to the publishers, J. B. Lippincott Company, of Philadelphia, whose work speaks so well for the printing art in America. B. A. WATSON. Jersey City, N. J., October 12, 1887. vii CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. RiCREATION AND ITS OHJECT.._Cl.A,SSIFICATION OK HitNTERS-ACTIVE EXER- ci^K AN Excellent Kemeoy kor Ohesity-Si-ort at SiiELnvvn.LE, Ten- NESSEE-WhaT OCI-RRED AT THE EVANS HoUSE-A FRIEND IN NkED IS A Friend Indeed— Home Once More tUM CHAPTER II. Three Doctors in Search ok Sport-Our Guides-The Chief, and .he MAliNET WHICH CONTROLLED HIM-TroUT-FISHING ON SUNDAY, AND THE Results which roi .. wed a Violation ok the Canadian Law-Ch.ek John in Disgrace— Failure ok his Plans ao CHAPTER III. Grand Fishing Excursion-Watte's Creek visited by the Governor and EscuLAPius— Their Return and Reception at Camp-Grand Deer- Hunt, LED BY Dr. Pokorney— Chief John and his Assistants are relieved from Duty and go to the Rear in Disgrace-Dr. Pokor- ney AND other Assistants. 41 CHAPTER IV. The Start and Incidents of the Journey-Lumbermen and their Drunken Orgies— Travelling by the Royal Mail Stage in Muskoka— The Party attacked by Fleas-Camp on Canoe Lake-Deer-Hunting- GovERNOR Starts for Home-The Remainder ok the Party okk kor New Fields-Camp on Pickerel Lake-Rain and Fish-Crossing the Horka-Porka Portage-Camp on Rock Lake-Trout-Fishing-Camp NEAR Loon and Grass Lakes-Camp on Sand Lake-Homeward Bound . IX 6z CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. f The Start koiI a Grand Moose- and Deer-Hunt — Selection ok a Pho- tograi'her and the clilek guide— a romantlc wedding and the Honeymoon — Arrival at Rosseau Village — Canadian Stage Route — Tkoprietor and Dri\er-Our Old Friend "Chris" — Our New-Made Acquaintance— Mr. Struck, of Brooklyn 80 CHAPTER VI. Our Departure from Rosseau — A Charming Morning and a Healthful Walk — Camped near Spence— Incidents which occurred there- Joined BY our Guides— Camped on Birch Island — Camp-Life on Ahmic Lake — Struce starts for Home — The Balance of the Party off on a Long Tramp — The Beaver's Trysting-Places — The Photographf.r's Sport near Burr's Falls — Plodding through Woods after Dark — The Youthful Driver — A:iri/al at Sphynx Shoot . . . .102 CHAPTER VII. The Movements of our Hunting-Party — Crcssivg the Hor-ka-por-ka Port- age — Fishing in Rock Lake — Another Advance — Deer-IIunting, etc. — The Journey from Trout Lake to Long Lake — Camp on Long Lake — More Deer-Hunting — An Exciting Contest, in which the Photogra- pher Wins 124 CHAPTER VIII. Drying Venison — A Grand and Beautiful Mountain Gorge — The Meet- ing AT the Beaver-Dam— Our Photographer Lost in the Wilderness — A Lonely Night on Buck Lake— The Horridle Dream — The Lost Man Found— The Unexpected Meeting with a Bull Moose , . 146 CHAPTER IX. A Shot at a Bult, Moose— Following the Moose-Tr/.il — Moose calling — Breaking Camp on Loi g Lake — Camp on Trail hetween Upper Long and Sugar-Bush Lakes — Bad Weather and Consequent Delay — Preparation and Start on the Reconnoissance 167 ^ n FAGB 80 CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. xi PAGS The First Dinner— Killed a Dekr— Following a Moose-Trail— Camped ON THE Trail— Preparation for spendincj the Night— 0>tr Lean-to -A Snow-Storm— Long, Dreary Tramp— Discovery of a Moose- Yard —A Highly-Exciting Chase— Killed two Red Deer— A Disgusted AND Angry Captain— Honest Toil brings Refreshing Sleep— The Hunt resumed . . „ " 189 102 CHAPTER XI. The Discovery of Moose-The Killing of two Moof;E and the Wound- ' ing of Another-Our Camp on Moose Hill-The Return to Sugar- Bush Lake— A Severe Rain-Storm- Return to Moose Hill-The > Deaj Moose Photographed— Another Expedition— The Bear— A : Snow-Storm— A Hard Tramp . 210 124 CHAPTER XII. The Bear which was not killed-Following the Moose— The Captain KILLED THE BULL MoOSE— PACKING OUT OF THE WOOUS— ThE ReST AT HvRKNEss's Shack— A Hard Tramp— Burk's Falls-A Dekr-Hunt- . Another Trip to Canada in the Company of my Son, a Lad op Fifteen-Teaching the Boy to Shoot-Killed his First Deer- An Exciting Chase— The Old Doe makes her Escape .... 235 146 CHAPTER XIII. The Continuance of the Deer-Hunt-An Exciting Chase-Brilliant Mak.kuvring up an Old BccK-r.REAKiNG Camp on the I-.and-A Partridge-Hunt by the Roadsidk-An Exciting Race betwben •• 1 m" ANi. THE Old Cocker-Spaniel-Our Return to Maganetawan-The Trip from Maganetawan to Toronto ... ( 167 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 'IP Camp on Long Lake Frontispiece. " We immediately walked up to the office, each carrying a double-barrelled shotgun, followed by three hunting- DOGS" Page IS " Say NOTHING ABOUT THE CONDITION OF OUR CLOTHING" ... "29 Swallowing fish and fish-stories "48 " He has evaded the dog, hut — " . "52 "Tuesday, the Governor and myself each shot a deer" . . "67 " It is a serious thing to get lost in the wilds of Canada" . •' 76 A wedding in the wilderness "95 " I don't believe she knows that she is wanted" ... " 108 We are ready for the journey "129 " He shot the deer just as it broke from cover" ... " 133 Beaver-dam and house "150 "The first glance which I obtained of this huge animal was WHILE he was standing WITH HIS SIDE TOWARDS ME" . . " l68 The WOODS are full of them ........ "201 "Fire at him!" "213 The dead monarch " 217 The nearest settlement " 234 Food for the ravens left by bruin " 236 A hard tramp — homeward bound " 242 "We found them standing on the dry ground, while the doe WAS lying at their felt and the hounds were fawning ABOUT them" " 265 The dead doe " 267 That retriever " 285 xu s. "ronlisp iece. Page IS C( 29 l( 48 <( 52 <( 67 (< 76 (( 95 « 108 ti 129 « 133 ■( 150 << 168 (C 201 II 213 11 217 II 234 II 236 II 242 It 265 II 267 i< 28s The Sportsman's Paradise; OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. CHAPTER I. Recreation and its Objects— Classification of Hunters— Active Exercise AN Excellent Remedy for Obesity— Sport at Shelbyville, Tenn.— What Occurred at the Evans House— A Friend in Need is a Friend Indeed— Home Once More. HE prudent business man, before making an investment or inaugurating- any important change in his affairs, is accus- tomed to ask the question, Will Is it a good investment? The same question may be properly asked by any person prior to his de- parture for the great forests of the Dominion of Canada. The answer to this query must generally depend on the physical condition of the individual and his apprecia- it pay? THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; tion of the sports which are obtainable in these grand forests. Man, in all conditions of life, after prolonged and earnest toil, requires recreation, — i.e., a refreshment of strength and spirits ; but this cannot always be obtain- able in the same way. The overwrought workingman, in the full possession of physical energy, in perfect health, and possessed of the ordinary amount of physical strength, does not require the same sort of recreation as the sedentary, overworked student, professional or business man. In the former instance, a few days' rest, with an increased amount of sleep, serves to fully restore the temporarily depressed physical and mental vigor. The intelligent practice of the fatigued German workingman, who gathers his family about him and hies away to some neighboring grove, where he spends a peaceful and quiet holiday, thus obtaining pure air and rest, cannot be too highly commended. The whole family having spent a pleasant and profitable day in the open air, commonly return to their overcrowded and badly- ventilated apartments in the early evening; each member of the faniily being better satisfied with himself, and what is still better, satisfied with the others, they now partake of their frugal meal, and retire early to their humble cots, where they may sleep soundly, suffering neither from tJi- somnia nor frightful dreams, but awake in the morning completely refreshed. Consequently the Sabbath comes to the workingman as a complete restorer, as a day of perfect recreation. Physical exertion commonly produces only bodily fa- OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. ly fa- tio-ue, while the vital organs are maintained by the same power in a healthy state, and their various functions are performed in the best possible manner. It is therefore apparent that the physical condition of workinirmen is not o-enorally such as to require the active exercise which the hunter gains by the Canadian chase, especially when stalking his game ; but a high appreciation of the sport may be an ample compensation for every expenditure. It may be mentioned in this connection that various hunting-parties seek recreation in the forest in divers ways ; and consequently it is necessary to offer on this point an explanation for the benefit of the uninitiated, although no attempt will be made to give a complete classification. The heterogeneous mass of men entering the forest with guns and dogs are generally supposed to be hunters, but in fact among these may be frequently lound men whose peculiarities of mind and tastes are more nearly allied to those of Oscar Wilde than to those of Daniel Boone. It is therefore natural that these game-seekers should be continually looking for a hunter's paradise in the shape of a first-class hotel, in the midst of a grand forest, from the porticoes of which can be shot the great moose, the beautiful deer, and all the other species of smaller game, while the same must be acces- sible by an elegant steamer or grand palace-car. This class of hunters are continually fault-finding, are never happy, and seem to wish their companions to be as miserable as themselves. They never enter the woods without returning to their homes disgusted and thoroughly dissatisfied. Another class, commonly calling themselves w THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 1 1 ■ W sportsmen, frequently start from their homes heavily laden with kegs, demijohns, and numerous boxes well filled with bottles; and it may here be added that their luggage conveys a correct idea of the recreation which they may be expected to obtain when partially withdrawn from the restrictions imposed upon them by the rules of civilization. It will not be necessary for the accomplish- ment of their purpose that they should traverse wide tracts of wilderness, or be supplied with the most im- proved guns, the best dogs, or a large amount of food, since the free imbibition of the spirits with which they are so abundantly supplied will assuredly give them a highly spiritual nature, in which condition they should not be expected to join in the chase or perform any other acts which commonly characterize the ordinary corporeal man. It will therefore be sufficient for their purposes that they withdraw from our crowded thoroughfares to some quiet nook, village, or grove, where, in cabin or tent, surrounded by some congenial guides, — boon companions, — they suc- ceed in whiling away a few days or weeks in a style which has always honored the memory of Tam O'Shanter. It is not very unusual, even among these parties, when the effects of their deep imbibition have passed away, to find them engaged in target-practice, and they may occa- sionally sally forth for a few hours in search of game. It is generally a matter of some pride with these so-called sportsmen to be able to say that they shot, during their sojourn in the land of game, one or more deer, and to accomplish this purpose it is said to be not an infrequent practice with them to send out their guides with instruc- 1 OR, THL LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 5 tions to purchase one of these desirable animals, which had been previously taken in the chase by some other hunter ; the bargain having been made, the deer is brought to the ambitious sportsman, who then fires a charge of bur'c-shot or a ritle-bullet into the dead carcass, and on this act his claim to have shot or killed the much-coveted game is based. Having nf-w mentioned some of the characteristics of the pseudo-sportsman, we turn, with increased pleasure, to a consideration of the more noble character, — the true hunter. The true hunter, in many particulars, resembles the true soldier, and in several respects their lives are es- sentially the same : both are inured to hardships and like- wise exposed to dangers, while unusual fatigue, severe and often prolonged deprivation, are their common lot. Both are stimulated by conquest and likewise depressed by failure. The true hunter's enthu^^iasm, like the true sol- dier's, resembles, in some respects, the spirit which ani- mates, und::r certain circumstances, the old war-horse and the decrepit hunting-dog. Instances are occasionally re- lated in which a noble charger has been compelled by ad- verse circumstances to accept service on the farm in his old age; but even now, when harnessed to the plough, we are told that this noble animal is frequently so excited by the bugle-notes sounding the cavalry charge that he rears his head and tail, cocks his ears, and dashes away in search of an unseen enemy, — showing that he has not yet lost his fires of youth, and that he still desires to participate in the bloody work of war, — to hear the boom of the cannon, the ratding shots of the carbine, or to see the flashes of the THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; flittering sabres. The old, decrepit hunting-dog, half blinded by age, stiffened in every limb by rheumatism, having been compelled by infirmities to remain in the kitchen corner for years, is aroused to a new life by the click of a gun-lock, raises his eyes towards his master's face, staggers to his feet, and once more expresses his love of the chase by jumping about the hunter's limbs, lovingly caressing his hands, and following on with the other dogs, hunting through field and forest until his strength com- pletely fails, then uttering a dismal howl, — proclaiming his disappointment and rage caused by his inability to go farther, — falls to the ground and frequently fails to reach again the kitchen corner, but is often mercifully relieved from further suffering by death in this last effort. The true sportsman is possessed of a high degree of enthusiasm, — he joins in the chase because it gives him pleasure, — ex- citement which it produces causes him to forget, for the time, hunger and fatigue. He therefore follows the game from morning until night. His food is commonly plain, but nutritious, still no one enjoys eating more than the sports- man, since his system has been fully prepared for the food, and it may be further added that the food is adapted for the wants of the body. The hunter makes his bed on smooth mother-earth, spreads his rubber blanket over the sweet-scented balsam branches, or should his time be too much occupied with other matters, then these branches will be omitted, but without seriously interfering with his repose. It is important to remember in this connection that those who have lived a sedentary and studious life are particu- larly prone to suffer from various forms of dyspepsia and ■•"*»» OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 4 likewise insomnia. // may also he boldly asserted at this point, without entering iyito any long inquiry bearing on the etiological or pathological conditions of these morbid states, that the man who ivill engage in the chase zvith all the en- thusias7n of a true sportst,i.an, and will follow the same a feru months, will certainly find more benefit from this course of procedure than could possibly be obtained by the most sys- tematic restrictions in the use of food. Active exercise thus obtained will efficiently relieve obesity and also develop the muscular system. In this manner it is entirely practical, and at the same time free from danger, to reduce the weight to any desired standard, and that, too, while the diet is wholly unrestrained, except by the ex'^^^ncies which are inseparable from the life of a hunter in the forest, more or less removed from the luxuries of modern civilization. In this instance a re- duction of weight is effected almost entirely by the active and prolonged exercise, which, instead of being a drudgery hard to be borne, is a noble sort of labor which gives rise to tlie most pleasant thoughts, and at the same time gratifies an exalted ambition. The literary man who joins in the chase with true sportsmen will very soon discover that hunting is both a science and an art; and consequently this pastime supplies him with the necessary occupation for both body and mind. The rnodus operandi by which it is accomplished is easily comprehended by any thoughtful person. The loss of adipose tissue depends almost entirely, in this case, on the exercise taken, while the increased muscular development is due to the same agency. It will therefore be observed T^' 8 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; that depriving fat patients of certain sorts of food which are frequently considered by them as essential to their happiness is not required by this method of treatment. The athlete generally depends for the reduction of weight on this system of active exercise rather than on any restrictions of diet. Furthermore, there is no doubt that if this simple method of treating obesity was fully understood it would be very popular with those affected with a tendency to an over-accumulation of fat, since |/cr- sonal deformity would thus be avoided, and the individual so relieved would be enabled to perform his role in life as a worker and bread-winner with increased ease. The science of cookery has nov/ attained to such a degree of perfection as to promote epicurean tastes, and likewise to lead to extensive gormandizing, especially among the rich and those of sedentary habits. Its evil effects become most apparent in middle life, while it can- not be denied that in many instances it is carried forward into old age. During childhood and early life, the age of great physical activity, obesity is rarely seen. This fact speaks volumes in favor of active physical exercise as an agency for the prevention of obesity ; but it is not to be supposed that every person overburdened with fat will possess the required energy to exercise sufficiently to materially diminish this undesirable burden. Many of them will be seen waddling about our cities, even when the temperature is below seventy degrees Fahrenheit, puffing and blowing like a wind-broken horse while being exercised, and when the weather becomes warmer these unfortunate mortals are compelled to employ fans, seek rest in shady OK, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. nooks, Imbibe ice-water and other cooling drini ; The unexplored wilderness affords the most inviting field for the required recreation in these cases, and offers, at the same time, the most favorable conditions for the restoration of this class of cases, especially if the patient can be prevailed upon to lead the life of an active, indus- trious hunter. In the wilderness the patient is removed from every temptation co any sort of mental labor; he is undisturbed by business or any other outside communications, since he" is far from post-office or telegraph. The new order of business, if engaged in stalking game, is tramp, tramp, during the live-long day, while the mind is occupied with pleasant anticipations of prospective or present sport ; the blood courses through its vessels with unwonted vigor, the lungs are fully and rapidly inflated with pure air, which very seldom happens among sedentary persons, although so important to the health of all classes ; a wholesome appetite is engendered by this active exercise, and after spending a delightful evening around the brightly blaj'.ig camp-fire, where a rehearsal of the adventures of the day, with story and song, enliven the hour, the sportsman retires to his couch beneath his canvas tent or lean-to, where his blankets have been spread for him by his guides on balsam boughs which are giving forth their agreeable perfume. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 13 Does mat be having hen be • like a nviting [ offers, for the patient , indus- every sturbed ince he^ der of tramp, d with >rt; the or, the ^ :i 1 On these he soon falls asleep without rocking or song, — sleeps during the entire night, and awakens in the morning fully refreshed and prepared for another day's toil. Thus passes day after day with the true sportsman in the forest. Illustrating the health-giving power of active exercise, the author will here briefly refer to a trip which he re- cently made to Shelbyville, Tennessee, in company with his le(>-al friend whose case has already been mentioned ; and here it should be also stated that this lawyer had ter- jiiinated, on the day of his departure for the South, a series of important trials, and was, therefore, in a highly nervous state. This nervous excitability was very marked in all his movements and doings during our journey. We reached War Trace about three o'clock in the morn- ing, rested until six a.m., when we started out with our guns and dogs for Shelbyville, distant from the former .place about eight miles. We had determined to spend the day with the quail, which are very abundant in this part of the St£,te, and to bring up in time for the evening meal at the Evans House in Shelbyville. It was a warm autumn day, but the excitement of the sport kept us pretty steadily in motion. It was not, therefore, until late in the afternoon when we becran to think of food, rest, and shelter; and now, inasmuch as we had made a good bag of birds, it seemed entirely prvoper to abandon any further search for game and take the direct route for the hotel, which was reached about five o'clock. The moment we left the fields, en- tered the road, and began to plod along towards our destination, the spirit of the sportsman imn.cdiately 'ih II H THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. abandoned us, and then we realized that we were sorely fatigued : every step was painful, the walking was miser- able drudgery ; we walked a few rods and then halted ; started on again ; our progress was slow, but we could n'»t remain where we were, — we must go lorward. The desired haven was at last reached. We immediately walked up to the office, each carrying a double-barrelled shot-gun, followed by three hunting-dogs, registered our names and that of the gunner who accompanied us, asked for our rooms, to which we were promptly conducted, threw off some portions of our wardrobe which had been burdensome during the greater part of the day, indulged momentarily in a brevet-bath, dropped without further delay on the beds with which our rooms were provided, and within ten minutes each man in the party was sleeping soundly, and continued to sleep for about two hours, when we were called to the evening meal, arose from our beds greatly refreshed, made our toilets, after which we partook of a hearty meal and again returned to our rooms, where we recounted some of the events of the day, then retired in good order to our couches, where we all slept soundly during the entire night, my legal friend forgetting for the time being that he had ever suffered from insomnia or anything else. We were aroused in the morning by the loud ringing of a bell, which, in this hotel, was used to announce the time for rising and also the proper moment for entering the dining-room for meals. We responded in due time to the demand which had been made upon us by this ringing, and corsequently we were prepared to obey the inging ce the itering e time y this ey the i6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; second summons which informed us that breakfast was now ready. However, owing to greater promptness on the part of others, there were seated around the large hotel table about twenty persons at the time we en- tered the dining-room, who were observed to cast side- long glances at us without speaking. Few words were spoken during this meal by any of the guests, but our party was closely eyed. It was not, however, until after breakfast that the lawyer and myself learned the purport of all this when our gunner, Alfred Goldsmith, called my legal friend aside and informed him that the proprietor of the hotel did not seem to be quite at ease in regard to the nature of our business. The lawyer informed me, after his interview with Mr. Goldsmith, that the proprietor had been quizzing our gunner in regard to our intentions in visiting that section of country. When informed by the latter that we came from New York to Tennessee for a few days' quail-shooting, the proprietor expressed, emphatically, his doubts in regard to the accuracy of this statem nt, and promptly informed Goldsmith that he was not prepared to believe that the gentV men with him were such fools as to travel so far merely to kill a few birds. This remark was too much for Goldsmith ; he had no answer for it. The proprietor observing his silence, in- formed him that he had had the honor of entertaining, within a few months, Jesse James and his party, and that while stopping in this hotel they had occupied the same rooms in which we were now lodged. Goldsmith was now asked if he was familiar with the different points of interest about Shelbyville. He answered in the negative. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 17 was ■'> 5s on %■ large 2 en- side- ■ "V ■i'i ■ ' -3'- were ■>iiaM It our .^H I after i^BH urport ed my prietor regard ed me, ^j^H prietor entions ned by inessee iressed, of this i.^M he was m were ^1 ') birds. had no *1 nee, in- 1 -taining, 1 ,nd that ■Iw le same ith was oints of ''H legative. The proprietor tiien mentioned many objects of local interest, among others the hangman's tree, situated about four miles from the hotel, and also added that there had already been hung about a half-dozen persons from its branches. Poor Goldsmith was now thoroughly frightened, and therefore communicated promptly with my legal friend, in order that any threatening misfortune might be avoided. The lawyer and myself having learned that there was really some anxiety manifested in regard to our intentions, promptly determined to call to our assist- ance John Royall, our former classmate, now living near this hotel, and who was sufficiently acquainted with my legal friend to b'' able to vouch for his honesty and truthfulness. There was no time lost, inasmuch as we proceeded immediately to the office and asked to be directed to the drug house of John Royall & Co. The hotel clerk gave the required information, and my legal friend prompdy departed, determined to have all these suspicions speedily removed, consequently I was not sur- prised when I was requested, half an hour later, to meet Mr. Royall in the hotel office. An introduction to the proprietor by Mr. Royall was the next business in order. The hotel proprietor, soon after this introduction by Mr. Royall, took occasion to interview him privately. The result of this interview having proved entirely satisfactory I to our host, a new and more pleasant relation with us was immediately inaugurated in the hotel. The proprietor and the guests no longer regarded us with either suspicion or anxiety. The former, however, remarked subsequently to Mr. Royall, with whom he was very well acquainted, that i8 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; I 'I it did, at first, st em very strange that gentlemen would travel so far to shoot a few little birds ; and he had thought it much more probable that we were in the employ of the United States government for the purpose of hunting up moonshiners, who at the time were making much trouble in the Southern States. It may now assist some of my readers if I offer a slight explanation in regard to the cause of the excitement which we had so unintentionally produced. It should be first stated, in this connection, that neither the quai' nor any other small birds are often hunted by gentlemen in that vicinity, but it does occasionally happen that some citizen is seen carrying a double-barrelled shot-gun for the purpose of taking the life of a fellow-man, or with the intention of defending himself against those enemies who are supposed to be seeking his blood. An interesting instance of the latter was related to us while sojourning in Shelby ville. Our old classmate and friend not only righted matters for us at the hotel but joined in our field sports, introduced us to his friends, who vied with him in entertaining us, gave us grand dinners, and paid us many other attentions, which seems to be only a part of the true hospitality which per- vades the South. Like the other pleasant parts of our lives, our stay in Shelbyville had its end ; and having spent nearly two weeks with our new-made friends, we returned to our homes much improved in health, my legal friend being now able to sleep, while my own diabetic trouble had been much improved. The question may be properly asked, if we spent our OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA *9 time in the best possible manner. I am able to assert posi- tively that our time was spent most agreeably. The field sports were for us true recreation, but these splendid en- tertainments must be classed with the milder forms of dissip^don. 20 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; CHAPTER II. I I Three Doctors in Search of Sport — Our Guides— The Chief, and the Mag- net WHICH CONTROLLED HIM— TROUT-FisHINC! ON SUNDAY, AND THE RESULTS which followed a violation of the canadian law — chief joiin in Disgrace — Failure of his Plans. HE author desires to preface this narra- tive with the statement that nearly nine years have elapsed since these events transpired, and, inasmuch as no notes were taken at the time of the occur- rences, it may be necessary for the reader to make some allowance for want of accuracy in some of the minor details. Furthermore, inasmuch as my companions were exceed- ingly modest men, who might blush even at the sight of their printed names on these pages, we will designate the leader of our party as Governor, a title which well becomes the aristocratic dignity of this fine old gentleman. A fur- ther description of the Governor, as he appeared at the time of which we are now writing, may possess additional interest for our readers ; and therefore we will add that, although we have here spoken of him as an old gentleman, it is quite doubtful if he had then attained his sixtieth year. Nevertheless, his hair was already silvered with age, whiie his step was slow and slightly unsteady; figure erect; height about five feet ten inches ; possessed of a rather broad chest, while in other respects his form approximated OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA, 31 the aldermanic ; complexion light ; face full well rounded, partially covered by side-whiskers, and showing at various points enlivening reddish tints caused by a dilation of the capillary blood-vessels ; eyes moderately large, and of a grayish color; while neither the nose, mouth, nor chin pos- sessed any marked peculiarities calling for a particular description. His manner of speech was slow and often hesitating, occasionally expressing his wishes and views by silenc^ rather than words. He also maintained a dignified bearing under all circumstances, however trying the situa- tion, and was never known, even in the backwoods, to remove his high choker or spotless linen. He would not even drink tea or coffee from any other vessel than pure china, while a silver spoon, knife, and fork were absolutely ess'^ntial to his happiness. It must already be apparent to our reader that the Governor possessed, in a very high degree, those important qualifications which so admirably fitted him for the performance of the manifold duties of an ambassador rather than those of a high general or an adventurous leader ; consequently I am fully assured that no surprise will be felt when I assert that a further perusal of this chapter will establish the fact that it was in the per- formance of his ministerial duties that he won his chief laurels. The other members of this famous hunting-party occu- pied subordinate positions ; consequently no detailed de- scription will be given of them, although we shall hereafter speak of one as Esculapius and the other as Scribe ; while the name by which the former is commonly known among his friends might indicate to the uninitiated that his ancestry m 4 I J W""p'li 22 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; were originally inhabitants of Finland. It may, however, in this instance, be pardonable to say of Esculapius that his personal appearance, conversation, and movements all declare to the world that he is a sturdy member of the medical profession, possessed of a strong belief of the propriety of enforcing the laws of self-preservation, while the frequency with which he discharged his gun when in the pursuit of game was certainly sufficient to satisfy his companions that he believed gunpowder was made to be burned; but the effect of these shots having never been known, it must always remain an open question whether the game or game-seeker occupied the safer position. It was early in the month of September when this party took their departure from Jersey City by way of the Erie Railroad, leaving behind them Gotham, with all its wicked, noisome, and enchanting surroundings. Nothing transpired worthy the attention of the Scribe until we reached the Canadian custom-house on the north side of the Niagara River. Here we met a fine old Irish gentleman, — Canadian custom-house officer, — who exam- ined our baggage, passed and properly marked the same, and then made himself known to us as a brother-sports- man possessing a lively interest in our prospective sports. I cannot with this brief notice pass so lightly by this mag- nificent specimen of the human family, with whom I had not previously met, although since that meeting I have had s.everal opportunities to listen to his lively stories and enjoy his generous hospitality. I believe he is the son of a dis- tinguished major who at some former time commanded a Canadian fort in the vicinity of the Niagara Falls, having '. .'^1 OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 23 received his commission from the English government. The major's son, the present custam-iiouse officer, stands fully six feet and three inches without boots ; is as straight as an arrow, well proportioned, and possessed of a military bearing; while, in addition to all this, he is prompt and courteous in the discharge of his official duties. Having examined our baggage on this occasion, he entered our car, where he remained in conversation with us nearly an hour, until our train was ready to proceed. In this conversation he imparted to us much practical informatipn relating to the selection of guides, the Canadian localities in which we would be most likely to find game, etc. In answer to our inquiry in regard to the habits of the Indian guides, he replied, " They are generally lazy, filthy fellows, less desir- able as companions and servants than the native Canadian trappers and backwoodsmen." In support of these views here expressed he gave us a detailed statement of per- sonal observations made while in camp with some friends who had employed Indian guides. The old gentleman spoke particularly of an observation made by himself in the early morning, while the Indian guide was engaged in cleaning the frying-pan preparatory to cooking the break- fast for the hunters. In this instance, the weather being warm, the wardrobe for the body was limited to a single garment, which he now saw the " noble red man" using for the purpose of drying and cleansing the more important cooking utensil. In explanation of the garment, — size, texture, etc., — he added that it was a common towel which the hunters had brought with them for the purpose of dry- ing the hands of the guides while engaged in cooking, etc., 24 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; a refinement wholly incomprehensible to the Indian mind, and consequently it had been employed for a very different purpose. He also spoke of their long, unkempt hair, its numerous inhabitants, the effects produced by shaking and brushing "t over food and blankets, with much of the same nature. During the narration of these somewhat impor- tant events I had watched carefully the deepening expres- sions on the Governor's face : dark clouds had gathered ; I could readily read " No red man need apply ;" while even the countenance of Esculapius was no less expressive ; but here I read " Death to the dirty dogs ; I have no sympathy with them." The Governor's feelings were certainly too deep to find expression in words at this time. He had remained entirely silent during the whole conversation. Esculapius had spoken only a few words, merely in mono- syllables ; he was apparendy overwhelmed with the situa- tion. The old custom-house officer's face was now wreathed in smiles : he had put it forcibly, had watched carefully the effects of the narrative on these amateur sportsmen. As our train was now ready to start, he bade us good-by, wished us succes^i and a pleasant time in Canada, and we were off for the woods. We proceeded from Niagara Falls immediately to To- ronto, remaining overnight at the Queen's Hotel. In the mean time the Governor telegraphed to various persons in different parts of the province of Ontario for guides, etc. Replies having been received, it was determined to start for Bracebridge some time during the following day, where we would meet guides who had already been selected for us through the efforts of the Governor. a OR, TffE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 25 In accordance with this decision we left Toronto in the afternoon, travelled by rail as far as the Miiskoka wharf, which is situated on Lake Miiskoka, and from this point by a small steamer, which reached Bracebrid<;e about midniL^ht. The instant tiie steamer touched its whart at this point three guides came on board, sought out the Governor, held a brief interview with him, caught up our luggage and quickly passed from the boat to the shore, where they were completely enveloped in darkness, as there were no lights on the wharf and the steamboat was but dimly lighted. It was, therefore, difficult for us to follow these guides to the hotel where we had determined to spend the remainder of the night. The darkness was so intense that even after our eyes had become accustomed to the changed condition due to our passage from the badly-lighted boat to the absolutely unlighted streets of the frontier village, our guides, though preceding us only a few paces, were still completely invisible. It was during this trying period that the chief ingeniously came to our assistance by uttering from time to time shrill war-whoops, which at this moment r'^called to the mind of the Scribe the doings and suffer- ings of the former inhabitants of this land, — the ancient Hurons. Having reached the hotel, we were conducted to the bar-room and office, which was dimly lighted with a single kerosene lamp. This light rendered visible the forms and faces of our guides, and consequently enabled us to form our own ideas of the persons with whom we were expected to associate during the next few days. We now saw standing before us our three guides. The lu .J '\ ?l m t I. 26 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; leader was a man of small stature, about thirty-five years of age, with an erect figure and rather active in his move- ments. This man, whose name would probably have been written " Bottcher" had he been unfortunate enough lo be born in Germany, we will now designate as John. The chief guide was accompanied by a young brother, only seventeen years old, who was to go with us. This boy was small in figure, resembled somewhat his brother, and will hereafter on these; pages be mentioned by the name of Frank. The third, a man standing about six feet without shoes, erect figure, well proportioned in every part of the body, with a glossy black face, curly black hair, flat nose, and projecting heels, was certainly the largest man in our party, li hlm^ but I think every other person In the party was inclined to look on him as a worthless animal. The chief now shouted to us joyfully, " Hear the music ; get your guns ; my hound is running a deer. I wish to station you on the run-ways coming into the lake." His orders were obeyed with alacrity ; we were stationed ; all were joyful ; but it was soon apparent from the sounds emitted by the hound that he was running in small circles, neither leaving nor approaching the lake, and could not, therefore, be chasing a deer, which never runs in this manner, but was unquestionably running a rabbit. The chief guide called us away from the run-ways, after having kept us there about an hour. While standing around the camp-fire im- mediately after our return from the run-ways, Jim said to Chief John, " Your dog was chasing a rabbit and not a deer." The chief replied, " I have never known him to do so before." It was, however, subsequently admitted by the 3 .!t ! i I I 1 I I ii 34 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; li'(:h|.ii ^l;i Mlili III ii owner that the dog had never been trained ; had never been tried in the forest on any game ; and permit me to say that many subsequent trials demonstrated to us his entire worthlessness. He could not be made to run a deer. The further doings of the day consisted in the taking of a three-pound speckled trout and the shooting of two wood-ducks by the Scribe. The taking of this beautiful fish came near causing us serious trouble, in con- sequence of its having been reported to the fish-warden, who followed us several miles down the lake to a new camp, where he was persuaded by the cautious, able, and accomplished ambassador, the Governor, to compromise the whole case, thus possibly avoiding international com- plications. It was an undeniable fact that the fish had been caught on Sunday, in violation of the Canadian laws. This law makes no allowance in favor of the hungry foreign sportsman. There was shot, by Esculapius, during the same day a ruffed grouse, which had come into our camp apparently for the purpose of taking a survey of camp- luggage, etc. I am not absolutely certain that this feat was performed by Esculapius ; the Governor may possibly have had some hand in it, but I believe that Esculapius claimed the honor. Sunday night was spent by the whole party in the same manner as Saturday night. We again attempted to sleep on the hay ; the guides again visited their fair hostess, and returned to us at a late hour ap- parently very happy. The next morning we were stirring early, — had been promised by Chief John that he would this day lead us into the sportsman's paradise. In answer to our inquiries he said, " This promised land is situated OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 35 only about six miles from here, and there you will find an abundance of deer, fowl, and trout." The Governor, who is an expert fisherman, throws the fly most skilfully, and at the same time with charming grace, was highly delighted with the glowing description to which he had listened, and, therefore, took his departure from the barn in anticipation of rhe great pleasure just about to be realized. The morning meal had been made ready and ample justice done to the viands placed before us. The luggage be- longing to the party was closely packed and stowed away in the canoes. The chief had taken the Governor into his canoe for the trip down the lake, Frank had charge of Escu'apius, and Jim paddled for the Scribe. This arrange- ment, I think, had been effected by the chief guide, vho probably thought it necessary that he should now impress the Governor with his own importance and skill in order that the leader of our hunting-party might be made a firm supporter of all his plans. This arrangement for our journey afforded the Scribe an opportunity to question our colored guide in regard to the best localities on the lake for fishing and hunting. He had previously observed that Jim was not well at ease while John was describing the advantages for sport of the spot towards which we were now steering our frail barks. Jim approached the subject with, apparendy, a full appreciation of the duty which he owed to our party and likewise to his superior, John. He had allowed a few careless remarks to fall from his lips while standing about our camp-fire. I now plied him with questions, which he finally answered with frankness. He said, in substance, " You will find no game of any sort that M Til n 36 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; Pir':ii yiii'i'ift: you will be willing to shoot or hook anywhere near the point to which he is conducting you." I then asked, *' Wiiat object has John in deceiving us in this matter?" The reply was given after a little hesitation, but without any marked effort at evasion. I cannot attempt to recall Jim's words, but they were, in effect, as follows : "John is a widower; he lost his first wife some years ago ; he wishes to remarry, and is courting a girl who lives with her parents in the bush about one mile from the unoccupied shanty to which he is now conducting you. He v/ishes to spend much of his time in the company of this girl. He thinks you are green, and that he can fool you into staying there while he is courting at your expense. I would like to see you have good sport, but you will find none there." This statement was made with a certain degree of confidence to me, and I quickly determined to make no use of it at present, but to wait until it had been verified by our own experience. Onlv a few days at most would be required for this pur- pose. Our canoe was now passing the mouth of Watte's Creek. Jim remarked to me that this creek aiiorded the best trout-fishing on the lake. " I am not a professional guide," he said, " but am acquainted with every person living on this lake ; have worked as a wood-chopper a great deal about here ; all these people fish and hunt more or less, and I have frequently fished and hunted with them." I inquired still further about Watte's Creek as a fishing locality. Jim said he thought there might be some ducks and pigeons in that vicinity, likewise adding that he would like to remain there one day with me ; thought I might kill a considerable OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 37 number of ducks if I could shoot them on the wing. I preferred, however, to continue on in company with tiie Governor and Escuiapius, thinking that I might now be of some service to them, and was determined that neither John nor the girl in the bush should prevent us from se- curing some sport on the lake. In due time we reached the lake-shore in front of the shanty in which John's inamo- rata resided ; the canoes were soon drawn on the dry land, and the chief proudly led us into the log structure which contained the fair damsel whose magnetic influence over our guide seemed to betoken nothing but disappointment anO vexation for us. The maiden's mother was at this moment the only occupant of the little room to wh'ch John had conducted us. She received us kindly, invited us to be seated, and we all complied with this invitation, includ- ing even our guides, with the exception of our wily chief, who left the room in search of his fair lady, whom he unquestionably soon discovered, guided by that unerring influence that we have already mentioned. It was now about two o'clock; we partook of a lunch in this shanty, the hostess contributing to it bread and milk; our party were now refreshed and ready for new triumphs. The Governor asked to be conducted to the fishinL; -grounds. Frank was directed to accompany him, John having given his brother the necessary instructions for finding the place. The Governor has made a selection of flies for use this afternoon from the book in which he carries a large supply. He has likewise examined his beautiful rod, and finally declared himself fully prepared for pleasure. His face is wreathed in a pleasant smile, his heart is m M 38 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; beating- joyously in anticipation of cominjif events. He has started for the famous trout stream so vividly described to him by John as one of the tributaries of this lake. Escu- lapius and the Scribe now hold a brief consultation with John for the puq)ose of determining what shall be done by the rest of the party during the afternoon. John thinks it would be just as well to rest until morning and then take a fresh start. This did not ;"uit the party, and it was finally proposed that Jim should take the luggage in a canoe, go to the unoccupied shanty, situated about a mile from this point, and prepare the same for our occupation. Neither the Governor nor Esculapius are yet willing to f^ "> under canvas if it can be avoided. Jim is promptly _.. lOr the performance of the duty assigned to him, John is to guide Esculapius and the Scribe through the woods in search of partridge. We have selected our shells, donned our hunt- ing-coats, and with our guns in hand are ready to be off at the word from John, who left us only a few moments ago, possibly to give a parting salute to the magnet which now controlled him. After an absence of fifteen or twenty minutes he returned to us and declared his readiness to lead us. We started into the woods, he leading at a very rapid pace, while we followed as rapidly as possible. It required only a few moments for him to distance us. We called to him to wait ; he halted, but only permitted us to approach within easy speaking distance before he was off again, this time on a slow trot. We called to him once more; this time he allowed us to approach somewhat nearer to him, but showed much uneasiness ; was apparently just ready to be off again when we checked these indications ill! 1 OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 39 by a united request for a rest. We now took seats on a loLj ; were bathed in perspiration and blowing like a wind- broken horse. We ventured to remonstrate with Iiim for travelling so rapidly ; suggested that he had kept so far ahead of us that had he discovered game, as he was not provided with a gun, the birds would in all probability have escaped before a shot could be fired. He told us that he was a very fast traveller ; was not walking this afternoon as rapidly as usual, but would try to moderate his pace to suit us. We soon started again ; he travelled now faster than before. We walked and r .1 in our efforts to keep up to him, but found it impossible. This chase was continued about three hours, when we halted in front of the log cabin which he intended we should occupy during the night. This tramp was one long to be remembered, and suffi- ciently severe to deter any one from entering the woods for the purpose of hunting, if he believed such exercise was required, but we knew it to be unnecessary and inconsistent with any success. The Governor arrived in front of the cabin a few moments after we reached it. His face was bathed in perspiration, almost livid with rage, and he di- rected his eyes towards John, who had just seated himself on a log near the cabin door. John probably felt the force of this piercing look, as he meekly inquired, " Did you find the stream which I described to you ?" We found the dry bed of a mountsin stream, but I don't believe there ever was water enough in it to cover a three-pound trout, except dunng the early spring when the snow is melting. Our whole party was tired, disappointed, and disgusted with the conduct of John. The colored guide, Jim, had opened the '.i|!' M :f5 1 |! n 1 40 T//£: SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; lit !' door of the cabin and found it contained a large quantity of odoriferous, mouldering hay, which had been left be- hind by the last occupants, who had vacated it about nine months before our arrival. The entire cabin consisted of a single room, which was probably about twelve feet square and lighted by a single pane of glass. This diminutive window could not be readily opened or removed. It was still closed when Esculapius, who had entered the room, quickly retired, declaring that the stench arising from the decomposition was unendurable. He directed that the hay should be removed, the small window forced open ; all of which was promptly done by Jim and Frank, while John was resting on the log, where he had seated himself on his arrival before the cabin. Let it suffice to say that after improving the atmospheric con- dition of the cabin as much as practicable, the Governor and Esculapius determined to occupy it as their sleeping- apartment during the night, while the Scribe preferred to remain outside, sleeping on the ground with no other pro- tection than that afforded by the pure air and a cloudless sky. The guides had withdrawn from us during the early part of the evening, returning to the cabin containing John's enchantress. ii, .3 OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. CHAPTER III. ^mm n Grand Fishing Excursion — Watte's Creek visited bv the Governor and EscuLAPius — Their Return and Reception at Camp — Grand Dker-Hunt, LED BY Dr. Pokornev — Chief John and his Assistants are relieved from Duty and go to the Rear in Disgrace — Dr. Pokorney and other As- sistants. ■''■:• '."/ '"" - "] y^.: r>*t- ' / T was about four o'clock in the morning ,'/' when the Governor emerged from his unsavory sleeping-apartment with a hag- gard face and despondent heart. I had slept soundly durmg the greater part of the night ; was now greatly refreshed and ready to engage with him in conversation. The Gov- ernor, when he discovered that I was awake, remarked, " I have never spent a more miserable night ; the atmosphere of the cabin is stifling. I am sick this morning. I think we had better start for hom.e ; I have had enough of this sort of sport." I then revep^ed to him the fact that had been confided to me by Jim. I spoke to him of the fine trout-fishing which could be had in Watte's Creek. He seemed, at first, somewhat incredulous in regard to ^i''"'*^^^^!^ ^^^ statements made to me on the previous '"^^i^^S^^'^^ day by Jim, but finally the real motives w it Bii •' 42 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; I I controlling the acts of the chief guide became apparent to him. I had suggested that the Governor and Esculapius, with Jim and Frank, start immediately for Watte's Creek; that I remain behind with John ; that during the absence of my friends I would, with the assistance of John, put up the tent, make all necessary arrangements for their com- fort and a deer-hunt, which should follow promptly after their return. It required considerable urging on my part to bring this part of my programme into force, but soon after daylight Esculapius came from the cabin ; he too was sick, — was discouraged, but when I had explained our present intentions, and all the facts connected with the same, he readily consented to its adoption. In the mean time the guides having arrived, breakfast has been eaten, the Governor and Esculapius, with the guides, Jim and Frank, are off for the fishing-ground. John remains behind with me. He seems tired, is ill-natured ; declares that neither the Governor nor Esculapius will find any sport at Watte's Creek. It was after considerable urging that I succeeded in getting him to take hold with me and put up the tent ; but this was finally accomplished, and then the balsam boughs were arranged in true Adirondack style. The bed and tent were all that a sportsman could wish. I once more requested John to lead me in the woods. He was a little slow in getting off and very slow after he had got off. During a short ramble in the woods to-day I shot a par- tridge and a very large porcupine. The following night I was alone in camp, — John had gone to the same cabin . where he had spent the last night, and was not seen again l! ': .. '* i O/i, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 43 until the next morning. The night was passed in refresh- ing slumber ; the weather had been delightful since we left Brecebridge, — no rain. The following day was spent about camp. John now admitted to me that his hound was worthless and would not run deer. Jim had previously informed me that there was an excellent deer-hunter living on the lake-shore, about three miles from our camp. He also said that this man owned an excellent deer-hound and would be very glad to give us some sport. Soon after John entered the camp I engaged him in a conversation relating to our proposed deer-hunt. He was not so ill- natured this morning as he had been during the past two days, and said, frankly, " My dog is worthless ; we can't hunt deer without a good dog. I know of only one about this lake, and that is owned by an old Polander, who lives three miles from here." I then asked, " Can you not hire this dog a few days ?" John replied, " No ; the old doctor is very poor, has a large family, and supports them by hunting ; the dog is so necessary to him that he will not allow it to go out of his sight ; but he is friendly with me, and I think he will join us in a deer-hunt if we give him about three dollars a day. This would secure for us the use of the best deer-hound on this lake." I replied, " Let us employ him immediately." This conversation occurred while John was busied with the preparation for breakfast, and when the meal had been eaten and the odd jobs about the camp performed to my satisfaction I urged John to go in search of the old deer-hunter. Dr. Pokorney, and bring him to me. John was now perfectly willing to aid me in arranging for a deer-hunt ; he was evidendy in better Hi ll'l I 1 \\ M I' )1 71 sssa 44 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; • t ■il spirits that morning than he had been at any time since we left the camp near the barn. The attempt to deceive us and bring us into quiet subjection had completely failed. He fully realized at this moment that his original plan had completely miscarried, and had recovered from the shock arising from this disappointment. I walked to the lake with John when he started out to find Dr. Pokorney. He placed the litde bark in the water, stepped Ughdy into it, assumed a position on his knees, — the one which is always taken by the Indian or backwoodsman who is to paddle the canoe, — and was off with a light heart. After an absence of three or four hours he returned to me with the joyful intelligence that the old deer-hunter would be with us in our camp within a few hours. He had found him at his cabin, busied in stopping, with wood and mud, the holes existing between the logs, which, in the summer, were not objectionable, but which must be carefully closed before the approach of the cold Canadian winter. In accordance with the promise which the deer-hunter had made to John, he was in our camp before three o'clock in the afternoon. The object which had prompted me to seek this interview was immediately stated to him. He replied, " I am entirely at your service." I then informed him that I had two companions who were now temporarily absent, but who, I thought, would rejoin me in the evening and be ready to participate with us in the hunt the next day. He said, " I learned these facts from John to-day, and I will be here to-morrow morning at six o'clock to start the hunt." The intelligence shown by Dr. Pokorney in this conver- sation had greatly surprised me. John had spoken of him ORy THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. as "a doctor," but I had only thought of him in connection with this title as an ignorant quack, I now found myself in the presence of a well-educated gendeman, who was also evidently familiar with the rules governing polite society. He conversed with me in the English language, but I soon learned that he could also speak both German and French. You can, therefore, well imagine my surprise : here was a gentleman possessed of an excellent education — a pro- fessional man — living in a cold, rocky, sterile country, with no congenial associates, while the few other settlers on this lake could only be classed with ignorant adventurers, some of whom freely admitted that they left the front in order to avoid confinement in prisons. The doctor seemed to be about fifty years of age, was thinly clad, stooped con- siderably, while his shoulders drooped, and there were likewise observed other evidences of continued hardships and scanty nourishment. He was tall and gaunt, stood, probably, about six feet in his boots, sunken gray eyes, heavy eyebrows, light complexion, iron -gray hair, and heavy moustache. The mystery of the man's life is still unknown to me. He was certainly an enthusiastic hunter, and may he not have parted with the pleasures of civilija- tion for the purpose of enjoying the wild pleasures of the forest ? I cannot answer this question. We found him there on the "Free Grant Lands," working hard to support a large family, scarcely able to put bread in their mouths, staggering under the heavy burden imposed on him, and with very little hope for a better condition on earth. The first meeting with Dr. Pokorney was a great sur- prise to me. It is true, I had expected to meet this well- H!| il ■ IJ -i ■ ^A ^^mmm ■f^l'l,,, rl 46 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; known deer-hunter, but I had not expected to meet such a man. He remained with me in camp, I think, about two or three hours, and then returned to the place that he called home. The Governor and Esculapius, in accordance with my expectations, returned to our camp this evening. The tent is now in perfect order; the fragrant balsamic odor which pervades it proclaims the presence of a couch worthy to receive the body of a king. The camp-fire burned brighdy " few feet in front of it and lighted up everything about it. The necessary amount of wood has been gathered in and piled near at hand, so that this beau- tiful fire, which is the charming source of light, may be continued all night if desired by the campers. Our camp is situated near the lake-shore. It was about nine o'clock when we heard the merry sound of approaching voices. Listen one moment: Jim is singing, and that sounds like the Governor's happy laugh. Esculapius has discovered our camp-fire ; hear his joyful shout, " Hallo ther !" Both John and I are on our feet, peering out on the Lke, — it is a calm night ; it is moonlight, — we can barely make out in the distance the two little canoes which are ap- proaching our camp. We shout back to our friends; shout answers shout ; and they quickly touch the shore at our feet. Behold the beautiful sight: there lay in the bottom of these canoes not less than forty speckled beauties, not one of which weighed less than one pound, and many weighed four. We greeted each other with a hearty hand- shaking. The Governor recounted to me the same even- ing the pleasures of this trip, and I now participated with him in the enjoyment he had felt while catching these fish. hmt^ OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 47 He is an enthusiastic fisherman, but: cares little for shoot- ing. Ecculapius seemed to be perfectly satisfied with the part which he had taken in this little excursion ; admitted that he had fired a great number of shots at ducks and pigeons, but showed us no game. The tent now presented to the Governor and Escu- lapius an attractive appearance, and they entered it without uttering a single demurrer. We all slept soundly under the canvas, inhaled the pure atmosphere of the forest, and awoke early in the morning with renewed energies and pleasant forebodings for the day. The deer-hunter, Dr. Pokorney, reached our camp about six o'clock that morning; was immediately introduced to the Governor and Esculapius. He seemed this morn- ing to be in excellent spirits. The Governor exhibited to him some of the speckled beauties with much apparent satisfaction. The guides soon announced that breakfast was ready^ and it did not take many minutes for our whole party to arrange themselves in a semicircle on the ground around the spot where it had been decided to place the meal. A rubber poncho had been placed on the ground, and it was on this small blanket that the cups containing the smoking hot coffee and the plates laden with the fried fish and boiled potatoes "were placed. The whole party, including Dr. Pokorney, ate heartily, and every one, including John, seemed well pleased. The breakfast is ended, and the Governor, who is provided with pipes and tobacco, brings out his entire stock. There is now placed before our new-made friend. Dr. Pokorney, \\ 48 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; Swallowing fish and fish-stories. at least a half-dozen fresh brier-wood pipes and several pounds of tobacco. He is invited to make a selection and proceed to the next order of business, which is smoking. He, being able to decide with promptness on all such mat- ters, was soon afterwards seen in the full enjoyment of his pipe. Esculapius had followed suit, but the Scribe was so unfortunate as to be unable to join them in this pleasant pastime. The Governor having supplied the wants of the party, now drew from an inside pocket of his coat a case containing a beautifully colored meerschaum pipe, which he leisurely proceeded to fill, and afterwards quietly smoked. A heavy white frost covered every bush and exposed surfac^i of earth or rock. However, there is only a light OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 49 breeze, and, therefore, the lake is comparatively smooth. It is a grand morning for a deer-hunt: the bucks are moving in such weather at this season of the year. It was nearly nine o'clock before our party was ready to embark in their canoes for that portion of the lake where it had been decided that the deer-hunt should take place. The locality of the hunt had been chosen by Dr. Pokor- ney, although some suggestions had been made by John. These suggestions had been entirely ignored by the old deer-hunter, who did not seem to think them worthy of his consideration. He, however, did inform us that the Iccality was chosen with due regard to the wind and other factors involved in the practical solution of the question. When we started from the shore in front of oir camp Dr. Pokorney was in his own canoe, accompanied by his deer-hound ; the Governor followed in a canoe with John ; Esculapius was accompanied by Jim, while Frank was paddling for me. These old, leaky canoes, which I have previously described, have been somewhat improved, it is true, by the pitch that has been employed to stop the leaks, but we are still compelled to use, very frequently, the dishes to keep the water to a point consistent with our own safety, while we are still obliged to sit in a cold-water bath. I have observed that Dr. Pokorney's birch-bark canoe is nearly new and does not leak, while by a graceful and apparently easy use of the paddle it shoots over the water with great rapidity. The comparison of the old hunter's canoe with those which John has supplied for our use is not well calculated to make us feel contented while quietly seated in cold water. Let us, however, dismiss 4 a ^ .,t ; ('!',' \ \ 'li t I' mm 50 TJIE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE: from our minds, for the present, these unpleasant thoughts, and again resume the details of the deer-hunt. Dr. Po- korney took the lead in his canoe at the start, and paddled away from the camp about three miles, having kept in advance all this time before he stationed the Governor at a run-way where it came to the lake. The point which the Governor was to watch having been selected by the deer-hunter, John immediately brought his canoe to the shore, when both parties occupying it stepped to the dry land, while the guide promptly removed the water which it contained. Dr. Pokorney beckoned to the occupants of the other canoes to follow him, which they continued to do. He now proceeded on about one-half mile farther, where he stationed the Scribe and Frank, and about one mile from them he placed Esculapius with the colored guide. Our whole party were now stationed, and every- thing was in readiness to start the hound which was ex- pected to drive the deer into the lake. This animal had remained in the canoe with its master since we left our camp in the morning, and as soon as our party were properly stationed the old deer-hunter paddled back near to the spot where he had left the Scribe, in full view of whom he drew his bark canoe on the shore. The doff immediately leaped from the frail bark and began to run playfully around his master's feet, looking anxiously up to his face. Dr. Pokorney spoke kindly to the animal, petted her a moment, and then bade her to bring a deer. She started immediately, ran off a few rods and then halted, as if to receive further instructions, turned partially around, and again gazed into her master's face. He again urged .'1^ OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 51 her on, and pointed at the same time in the direction which h'- desired her to take. She now leaped forward into the woods, giving at the same moment a single yelp, and was lost to our vision. Nothing more was heard from her until after the lapse of nearly an hour, when we again faintly heard the music of her voice. Nearer, still nearer, are these sounds; clearer, still clearer, are they heard by us on the lake. Listen, her voice is now becoming fainter: she is fividently leaving the lake ; the deer which she is running has turned back : he is making a circle. " Never mind," remarked the old hunter, "she will run him so sharply that he will certainly come to water ; you will hear her voice again soon." Scarcely half an hour had elapsed when we again heard her voice ; faint at first, but more and more and more distinct every succeeding moment. Onward she steadily went ; she was almost at the lake. A splash was heard on our right, a few seconds later one was heard on our left ; Frank whispered, " Take your place in the canoe." He pushed the little bark from the sand to the water, and I promptly seated myself in the bow. Frank paddled noiselessly out into the lake, while we scanned the water both to the right and left. After the lapse of a few mo- ments we discovered a buck's heaci, which was held above the water on our right. The animal was swimming away from the shore and towards the middle of the lake. He had not yet discovered us, and we desired to place our canoe between the swimming deer and the lake-shore in order to prevent him from returning to the woods before we could get sufficiently near to take a shot. Frank now allowed our canoe to float quietly ; the deer was still >,,;.([ ■i I |i^ THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; \0. making towards the centre of the lake. We waited patiently ; the deer was now a half-mile from the shore where he had entered the water. The lake at this point is about two miles in width. We were now ready for the chase; we can cut him off from the shore where he entered and kill him before he can cross the lake. Frank handed me a spare paddle which he had in readiness in the canoe. The bark is headed, and we both pull away with all our might. The deer has discovered us: behold his frantic efforts. He has turned his head towards the shore and is making his greatest efforts to avoid this new danger; he has evaded the dog when he reached the water, but the chase has been taken up by a more dangerous enemy. m " He has evaded the dog, but " OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 53 He is now completely foiled : the canoe has come between him and the shore where he entered ; he turns once more his head towards the centre of the lake. He has made his last great effort; his doom is sealed. The Scribe has dropped his paddle into the bottom of the canoe ^nd picked up his gun. Frank pulled steadily towards the deer and gained rapidly. A few moments later a white puff of smoke arose over the canoe ; the deer dropped his head and floated motionless in the water, while the sound of the discharge of the gun in the hands of the Scribe echoed around the lake. Scarcely had the reverberations died away when another shot was heard on our right ; still another: the Governor was at work. He, too, had killed a deer, while we afterwards learned that the third had run the shore in front of Esculapius, but he was too much sur- prised to even fire a shot at this animal. The canoes now came together on the lake ; we greeted each other warmly ; everybody was happy once more. It was now about two o'clock in the afternoon, and we quickly, decided to go to our camp. The day had been passed very pleasantly by us and we had been rewarded with success. I have hunted very frequendy since that day, but have never seen three deer driven to water by a single dog in a single run since that time. We continued to hunt deer several days — a week or more — with Dr. Pokorney and his wonderful dog. This animal continued to manifest the same intelligence; was sent into the woods in the same manner each day by her master, and rarely failed to bring a deer to the water. This dog would probably not attract much attention at a bench show, although I have never Vx ! ( i i; [1,. ■ ; ' ■'.' ;. i 54 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; seen her equal in the field. She was a dark liver-and-white female hound, called by her master " Fan ;" he did not know or even care anything about her pedigree. This grand animal was rather large when compared with the deer-hounds that I have been accustomed to see, and also unusually long and lank ; possessed of pleasant, sunken eyes. She, like her master, was accustomed to work, and certainly was not overfed. Having reached our camp, the deer-huncer set to work and quickly dressed both deer, which were left hanging out of the reach of the dogs. The other guides gathered the wood and prepared the even- ing meal, which we will designate as our dinner, inasmuch as we had not partaken of food since the early morning. Our repast consisted of trout, venison, coffee, etc., and it is scarcely necessary to say that it was thoroughly enjoyed by our whole party. Having completed the meal, and while the Governor, Esculapius, and Dr. Pokorncy were smoking their pipes, the question was raised, What shall we do to- morrow ? Another deer-hunt was finally determined on, in which Dr. Pokorney and his faithful dog Fan were to participate. John now excused himself, and hastened away to report the day's proceedings to his inamorata, while the old deer-hunter remained with us until the sun had dis- appeared behind the western hills, when he bade us good- evening and started for his cabin. The next morning Dr. Pokorney was with us about six o'clock. John reached our camp about the same hour. He was evidently not in the most agreeable frame of mind : something must have gone wrong since he parted from us last evening. It is now evident that he intends to direct the t r c C( dl OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 55 future mov -inents of the whole party. He has informed Dr. Pokorney that the hunt to-day ought to take place at a certain point on the lake ; they find themselves unable to agree on this subject, when the Governor came to the aid of the latter, and poor John was thus left in the minority. He could not good-naturedly endure all this, and remained sullen during the whole day. Poor ufihappy man ! What is the matter with you ? Are you in love, and loved and still unhappy? How are we to explain your conduct? We have carefully studied your case, and have also pondered seriously the doctrine of the transmigrations as propounded by Pythagoras, and ask now the question, Has not the soul of some departed Huron chief found a temporary lodgment within the body of this unhappy man ? But the more we studied the antics of this curious fellow the more puzzling became the solution of the questions. Chief John was not a lover of " fire-water," but with this exception, his light, quick, and elastic step, ke^en sight, acute sense of hearing, extensive knowledge of v/ood-craft, all proclaimed the ruling spirit of the noble red man, and our guide in his own words assured us that he possessed all these ; never- theless there was something wonderfully conflicting be- tween his words and acts. It was during the second day of the deer-hunt, led by Dr. Pokorney, that the Governor declared, in the presence of the Scribe, that inasmuch as "a house divided against itself cannot stand," therefore John must take his departure. It was evident to us that the Governor had reached this conclusion after much patient thought ; but since the con- duct of the guides associated with him had been entirely 56 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; satisfactory to us, the important question that now arose was, How shall they be treated in this emergency ? The Governor held an interview with Jim, explained to him the situation, and it was amicably arranged between them that the latter and also Frank should go back with John to Bracebridge. In accordance with this treaty, John and his assistants departed from our camp the same evening. It was evident to all observers that this difficult and em- barrassing negotiation had been conducted with masterly skill on the part of our ambassador, since even John seemed satisfied and but slightly crestfallen when he parted from us. Jim urged us to come back into this country once more and give him a chance to act as our chief guide, — a position which we all knew he would fill to our entire satisfaction, since he had at all times, while in our service, acted in good faith and with a true regard to our comforts and best interests. Dr. Pokorney had been consulted by the Governor before he took this decisive action, and had informed the latter that he could immediately supply the required number of assistants canoes, etc. ; in fact, two colored men in new birch-bark canoes reported at our camp within an hour after John's departure. The change was found to be highly agreeable. The new canoes afforded us a dry, warm seat while we were on the lake, instead of reposing continually in a cold-water bath, as we had previously done. Dr. Pokorney now brought into camp with him his son in addition to the parties which I have previously mentioned. The son re- mained in camp, took charge of the fire and tent while the father and the other guides were engaged with us in the OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 57 deer-hunting. We were never left in camp without at- tendants. These guides remained witii us night and day, although they were unprovided with tents or other shelter than their canoes. I frequently saw them sit with their backs supported by trees, sleeping soundly while their clothing was thoroughly drenched with water and the rain still pouring down on them. Their canoes, when turned bottom side up, — bows placed on a log or rock so as to admit air and light, — afforded them very fair protection against a storm, while the space beneath them was ample to enable them to turn or move as much as was necessary during sleeping hours. The attendance in camp and the guidance while in search of game was now all that we could wish. We found Dr. Pokorney well versed in deer-hunting, and at the same time intelligent and companionable. His son, a lad of six en, brave and hardy, frequently amused me by the narration of hi exploits in the Canadian forests at mid-wintci-. while engaged as a companion to an old beaver- trapper. I, ; story, although not entirely new, was indeed very interesti ^. The boy said, " It was in the latter part of the month of January that I started, in company with old Ben, to go back into the bush about seventy-five miles in order to trap beaver. The weather was very cold and the snow was nearly three feet deep, and we were com- pelled to use snow-shoes. The hardest part of our work consisted in carrying in our provisions, traps, and other things required in trapping. When we started from this lake I carried a pack which weighed about fifty pounds. The first day out we travelled about ten miles, halted for m ini if 58 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; the night and cleared the snow from a space large enough for the fire and our bed. The required amount of wood and the balsam boughs were gathered, the fire built and the bed arranged, after which we prepared and ate our supper, and then wrapped ourselves in a woollen blanket, with which each was provided, and lay down for sleep." I inquired of the lad, "Were you able to sleep?" thinking the cold would probably act as a potent barrier in this instance. The reply came promptly from the hardy lad, " Oh yes ! I slept very well, for Uncle Ben kept up a good fire all night." He then added, "The next morning, after breakfast, we again shouldered our packs and pushed for- ward about six iniles into the forest, when we marked the spot and buried our luggage." In answer to my inquiry he informed me that they buried their packs, consisting of provisions and traps, to keep other trappers, who might chance to pass that way, from appropriating these articles to their own use, which might otherwise happen. The hiding having been completed, the old trapper and his assistant retraced their steps to the log cabin from which they had originally started on their journey to the woods. Here they remained only until the following morning, when they again^ started with other pac'>:s. This severe work of packing lasted more than two weeks, when they reached the locality that had been selected for trapping beaver. I have avoided a repetition of his daily narrative, lesi; it might become tiresome to the reader, although it was very interesting to me when minutely detailed by the junior participant. The story as told involved the daily doings, the exposures, hardships, and fatigues of the old back- *ni OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 59 woodsman and his youthful assistant. They were in the woods nearly three months, without the protection of even a canoe, tent, or any other shelter, during that portion of the time in which they were engaged in transporting their provisions and traps to the new field of labor. Having reached their destination they then erected huts, which they occupied as long as they remained. Let us now return to our camp-life on the Lake of the Bays, from which we have wandered so far while speaking of Dr. Pokorney's son. We have already described the deer-hunt that occurred immediately after Dr. Pokorney joined our party, and in addition to this we have incident- ally mentioned the fact that on the following day we en- gaged again in the same sport, which was continued day after day for more than a week with varying success, after the departure of John and his assistants. I cannot at this moment recall the number of animals killed, or the particulars of each chase, and even were I able to do so it would certainly be somewhat monotonous to the reader. When the time came for us to start homeward, it was suggested by Dr. Pokorney that it would be more con- venient for us to leave by the way of Huntsville than to retrace our steps to Baysville ; and consequently we started from this lake on which we had spent a very pleasant time in the company of our guides. We were compelled to portage our canoes and luggage from Lake of the Bays to Peninsula Lake, but we readily passed from the latter by its outlet to Fairy Lake and down this lake to Huntsville, where we parted with Dr. Pokorney and his colored assistants. si 6o THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; il tr We remained at this frontier village only a few hours, having arrived in the afternoon and taking our departure the following morning by the old stage-coach, which put us down in Bracebridge the same day about sunset. The return to our homes was made without the occurrence of any important events worthy of mention here. 'I '!! O/?, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 6l CHAPTER IV. The Start and Incidents of the Journey— Lumbermen and their Drunken Orgies— Travelling by the Royal Mail Stage in Muskoka— The Party atfacked by Fleas— Camp on Canoe Lake— Deer-Hunting— Governor Starts for Home— The Remainder of the Party off for New Fields — Camp on Pickerel Lake— Rain and Fish— Crossing the Horka-Porka Portage— Camp on Rock Lake — Trout-Fishing— Camp near Loon and Grass Lakes— Camp on Sand Lake— Homeward Bound. EDNESDAY, 13TH. — Arrived at the Falls of Niagara at eight a.m., and a few moments later started for Toronto, and reached that city at one-thirty p.m. Dined, and afterwards saw a display of the fire department, given in honor of the magnates of Rochester and Buffalo, S^who are paying a visit to the exhibition that is now being held here. The force of the water is so great that no engines are necessary ; the water, rushing through the hose, ascends to the highest roof. Afterwards we strolled through the city, admiring the beautifully laid out streets and the fine buildings. Among other scenes we visited St. James' Cathedral, — a magnifi- cent structure, — and we ascended the spire, which is three hundred and nineteen feet high. Here a perfect panorama lay at our feet ; a fine view was obtained, but it was in miniature, on account of the great height. Yachts were seen flying through the water ; vessels at anchor ; steam- .iil 62 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; ■M ill' boats, of which there was a fleet, dashing to and fro. A little beyond was the liome of the great sculler, who learned to row on the placid waters of the lake, which is here nearly land-locked. At Toronto we procured camping- blankets and provisions which we would require whilst sojourning in the woods. We did not visit the e.xhibition, as we were anxious to drink in the ozone of the wilderness. Thursday, \\th. — Started for Gravenhurst, — had a pal- ace-car to ourselves. The conductor was extremely polite and attentive, pointing out every object of interest which we passed on the road. While our time was thus occupied, in the other car were sixteen lumbermen who were en- gaged to go into the woods to cut lumber, — men who held a continual drunken orgy. The bottles of whiskey were continually passing from mouth to mouth. They were the most besotted set of men it was ever my lot to encounter. However, they kept to themselves and troubled no one. Reached Gravenhurst, — a place consisting of a few houses, — and immediately took a small steamboat, at half-past one, and proceeded to the upper part of Lake Rosseau. We had dinner and supper on board, as the boat did not reach Rosseau until eight p.m. Three of the lumbermen came to the table, and we had a scene with one of them. His appetite was ravenous, and plate after plate disappeared before him. It made no difference of what it was com- posed. During dinner the steward called upon him for the price of his meal, — only forty cents. His reply was that he would have to wait till he was sure that he had taken enough, and again he attacked the eatables. If the rest of the band were only able to come to the table the i( OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 63 captain would not realize much from that dinner. This man did not come to the supper-table. His appetite re- minded me of an Indian at a feast, laying in a stock for several days. We stopped at Pratt's Hotel, newly gotten up and finished. The proprietor is a Bostonian ; he re- fused the other party, who got accommodations a little below. During the night they got up and stole all the whiskey that the landlord hiid. Rosseau is prettily situated at the head of the lake. The hotel occupies a prominent location. The proprietor informed us that last summer it was full o{ guests from Boston and its surroundings. Mr. Pratt knows how to run a hotel, and his charges are cer- tainly reasonable, as is shown by the fact that fcr bed and breakfast he demands only seventy-five cents. The hotel has since burned down ; the capacity at that time being about one hundred guests. We made arrangements with the driver of the mail to take us and our paraphernalia to Maganetawan. Our coach was a large farm-wagon without a cover and minus springs. It was pleasanter without the first, and we were on the road but a short time when we discovered why it was without the second. The road, if such it could be called, was so stony that no springs could stand the jour- ney without being demolished. After an early breakfast the wagon drove up to the door, and one of our party opened his eyes at the prodigious turnout. He said that he would prefer a spring-wagon ; so would we, but there was no alternative. Thirty-five miles had to be travelled before we reached our destination. We took our guns and rods, and the driver then informed us that with our- - m 'f -'i iiS; $, \ 'C \ 64 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 11 selves and the other passen<^ers the load would be so heavy that he could not take our provisions, but he would send them later. We informed him that he must take the luj^gage or not take us, and after a good deal of dilly-dally- ing he loaded up, and we proceeded. To describe the ride in that Royal mail-coach is impossible ; hardly had we left the hotel when our misery commenced. Our seat was a pine board with no back to support you, and nothing to hold on to as you were pitched from side to side. Now when we descend a hill there is a tendency to pitch for- ward, and again a sudden ast. t impels you to turn a back-somersault. Walking was far preferable to riding in such a conveyance, especially as the horses could not move at a faster gait than a walk. We soon overtook two wagons carrying the lumber- men, as many of them were unable to walk, although some were endeavoring to do so ; and they presented a novel sight, too, with handkerchiefs tied about their heads in lieu of the hats they had lost during their drunken revels. The scene that one of the wagons presented was a disgrace to humanity : one of the number was stretched out on his back, — hors de combat, — while another was pour- ing whiskey down his throat, the miserable victim in his stupor not knowing what physic he was taking. We passed this party, glad to get rid of their company. Arrived at Maganetawan at seven p.m., every bone in our bodies sore and tired. Never had such experience in our lives ; you pay well sometimes for your sport. That night before retiring to bed sent for a guide, and made arrange- ments with him. OR, T'lE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 65 Friday, \$lh. — This morning tlw Governt r anvl myself went fishing on the river, but with no hick. I vas so tired last night tiiat I slept soundly, but my companions informed me that though they, too, were tired, sweet sleep visited them not. In its place they passed a restless night, troubled with a multitude of lleas, which gave them no rest. In die afternoon we went out and caught bass and pickerel under the guidance of a gamin called Johnny McCarthy, who was as sharp as a steel-trap, and knew where the fish were to be caught. He was the embryo sportsman. We were obliged to wait this day for the guide, Captain George Ross, who lives three miles from this village, which consists of Scotch settlers and Canadians. There are two small groceries and two inns, at one of wnich (kept by Clark) we rested. During the day we sent our traps by stage to the place where we were to camp, seven miles from Clark's. The day was fine, but it rained during the night. I was amused that night to hear the conversation of those assembled at Clark's. This, it seemed, was the rendezvous of the vil- lage. During the day a woman had died, and the village carpenter was engaged in making — I will not call it a coffin — a box ; it was original. The dead woman had been married a year; the people seemed to mourn her loss, as she was a kind person. It Impressed me very much to see the sympathy of the neighbors. Saturday, \6th. — Hired a wagon and started for the camp. After riding a distance we dismounted and took a birch canoe on Canoe Lake, and finally reached our camp. The tent was up and the larder was furnished with a deer, which the guide had killed the day before, besides arrang- 5 *l 66 THE SPORTSMAN* S PARADISE. ing the cainp. Wo partook to-day, for the first time, of a dinner under a tent in the woods. The chnnge from a set table with all its conveniences to the camp with its impro- vised accommodations is a decided one, but I think we all enjoyed this dinner, although the Governor wanted a napkin. He was the only one for whom a cup and saucer were procured in Toronto; the rest of the camp and table utensils were of tin. Our camp was delightfully situated about one hundred feet from the lake. We were much pleased with the good taste exhibited by our guide in the selection of the spot. This afternoon we went out hunting, and Dr. W. was the first to bring down a deer, which he killed a short distance from the camp. This afternoon our force was increased by I. Nelson, an old man, and George, his son, a young fellow about twenty. Our number is now six men all told. We have two hounds and two canoes. Our beds are composed of the tops of firs placed on Mother Earth. The night had its discomforts as well as pleasures ; unhappily, we had obtained some blankets from Clark's, and with them was the inevitable flea, which, like the mosquito, gives no rest. We passed a miserable night on account of these pests, but propose to beat them out to-morrow. ' ' Sunday. — A day of rest. Monday. — Went fishing on the lake ; small trout and chubs are the only fish the lake contains. Tuesday. — The Governor and myself each shot a deer. Wednesday. — Dr. W. went out with the gun and brought in some partridges. . . Thursday. — This evening we were frightened when 'II ••Tuesday, the Goven or and myself each shot a deer." I n iK8f »i i 68 T//JS SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; Mil I George set fire to the frying-pan in wliich he was preparing to cook some fish. His cries of "Water! water!" aroused the whole camp. The next episode was the Governor being nearly frozen to death. He forgot in getting into bed to go between the blankets, and on the dawn of day he became aware of his scanty covering, although we keep up a rousing fire before the tent all night. We have im- proved our camp, having erected a dining-room near the tent, open on the front and closed in on both sides, with a roof made of pine boughs. Here we have our table, and we are as happy as kings, eating our meals. The Gov- ernor insisted that it would be more civilized to eat off a table than off the ground, so we followed his suggesdon. The Governor and myself took with us the old man Nelson to visit a beaver-dam, but before we had reached it we got tired and returned ; took a gun with us, and killed some partridges, — a foolish bird. It flies from the ground and perches on a limb, looking down. If there should be a flock on the tree, the report of a gun will not frighten them aw'iy, and, provided you VIA the lowest one first, and so on, you may bag the entire lot. Young George went out to start a deer ; did not return till the following day. Says that he lost his way. The opinion of the camp was that he got lazy and slept out in a haystack. Thursday y 2\st. — Took a stroll through the woods. In the afternoon a deer was shot ; the hinder part was partly eaten by one of the hounds. Friday^ 72d. — Broke up camp and went to the head of the lake. The Governor took the stage for Rosseau ■PBIPOTma =Fm OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA. 69 on his way home. George and his father went home, and we pitched our camp on the shores of the lake. Got milk from Averill's. The captain went in search of another guide. As we were coming down the lake in the canoes, which were loaded to the gunwale, one of the dogs under- took to jump out and come to our canoe, nearly upsetting the one containing the Governo . However, nothing more serious resulted than ihe shipi :.i^ of some water and the severe flight to our friend. Captain Ross now went home, and Dr. W. and myself were alone. Saturday, 23^^, — The captain came to the camp about ten o'clock, accompanied by Bob Noble, who was to go with us as the second guide. We ate dinner an-^ started up the lake for Maganetawan in a canoe, and reached there in the evening. Camped a little above the falls, near a saw- mill. Visited Clark, and was invited by him to rest there that night. Remembering the experience that we had under his roof on our first night at Maganetawan, we replied that he evidently had too many to accommodate already, and only took our supper there. This evening the boy, John McCarthy, begged so hard to accompany us that we finally consented, and a happy boy he was. I think he slept but little that night. He is fourteen years of age, and his whole delight is in fishing. He has never been out on an expedition before. Sunday, 2^lh. — After breakfast at Clark's we stat-ted for Burk's Falls, a distance of twenty miles. The morn- ing was fair, but shortly after starting it commenced to rain, and continued all day. We stopped at twelve for A i; 1 1 'i yo THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADI^ ; lunch and then proceeded, — die captain and I in the litde canoe and the doctor and Bob in the larcrer one. Well provided with rubber outfit, I kept dry, while the others were wet. Arrived sately at Burk's Falls, — named after Burk, who four years ago settled here, and who keeps a store ; there is also a post-office and a new hotel building. The enterprise shown by the government is wonderful. Every little settlement has its post-office and regular mail. A steamboat runs from the tails to Maganetawan every other day. We tried our luck widi the fish and caught a nice lot for supper. We camped by thf^ river. Mondcy, 2^th. — Started fot Pickerel Lake. Hired Burk's team to take our luggage beyond the first portage. I went with the team ; the others by canoe. After the portage was passed the c-iptain and I took one canoe, the doctor and Bob the other. We had not proceeded far when we ran into a snag, and to prevent sinking before we reached the land, I had to hold my hand over the rent in the side of the canoe while Captain Ross paddled us ashore. With a piece of cloth and an application of warm pitch we were soon afloat again. At noon we took our dinner. The doctor got out his tackle, and in a few moments landed some nice bass and pickerel, which made an appe- tizing addition to our mid-day meal. He had also two '^ rises' of trout. Arrived in the evening at Pickerel Lake ; went out and caught some bass and pickerel. There is good trout- fishing here. This lake is two miles long. We encamped at the head of it. Four settlers are located on its shores, and live by fishing and hunting as well as by cultivating tM OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 7« the ground. Last Saturday our next neighbor, Mossup^ killed a black bear about half a mile from our encampment. It rained nearly all day ; too wet to hunt ; went trolling in the lake, and caught some very fine bass. In the after- noon tried to start a deer, but failed. Wednesday, 2']th. — Equinoctial storm; wet! wet! wet! Went fishing, and caught some fish. Have had no flesh meat since we left Maganetawan. Fish is our principal food. George went out and started a deer, but it took to another lake. It rained all day ; very cold ; varied by snowing in the evening. The wind was very sharp and cold. Received a visit from Mossup's two sons. Got a supply of potatoes from him. It is remarkable what fine potatoes are raised on this virgin soil. , Thursday, 2%th. — Still wet and cold. Tried fishing, but the lake was too rough for success. In hopes of pro- viding some partridge for the table we went out with our guns, but the endeavor failed. Had for dinner bouillon, potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions ; splendid appetite. Captain Ross does not know what to do. The doctor has the blues ; would like to be home mountain for partridge ; no use. on the lake .-xnd caught £ome fish near the shore, although the lake was covered with white-caps. The doctor is fixing his pants ; sewed the pockets up by camp-light. Fiiday, 29M. — Rained all last night ; raining this morning. George started a deer, — a large buck, — but did not get him ; he disappeared very mysteriously. A wet day ; drooping spirits in camp. Captain George sick : a bloody dysentery ; gave him the last of the spirits ; he I V/ent out on the In the afternoon went Hi 72 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; • 1 went to MossLip's house. The doctor and Bob are out in the canoe watching for deer. In the afternoon they went out fishing ; caught four bass and two pickerel. Made a pond for the fish, but in the morning they were missing, having been taken by the minks. Saturday, ^t'^th. — Wet morning. Went out looking for help ; paddled about till ten o'clock, v/hen he got Mossup and his boy to come and help carry the baggage, so that we could go straight on without returning. The captain was unwilling to start, as he said it would rain ; but the doctor was determined, and to show it we started on before them, so that they had to follow. It rained a li . i the morn- ing, — very little. The doctor and I started with our guns and rods ; lost the trail, but kept on our course, and the first thing we met was a high mountain. We faced it, and by hard work, climbing and crawling, we reached the top. A beautiful sight rewarded our efforts : no less than three lakes were to be seen at the foot of the mountain. We also descried our party in a ravine, and built a fire to attract their attention. They saw it, and we hastened to join them. We descended the side of the mountain and found them all right, except that they had decided to camp there for the day. We decided, after partaking of a light meal, to proceed on our way. The account given by the captain of the portage v/as sufficient to intimidate any one but ourselves. Our word was Otiward f We were told that we could not make the journey before night, and that when we reached P.ock Lake, for wliich we v/^)" houiiu, there would be no place to pitch our ten.t. We wf r j re- solved, however, to go on, and we did, \^di of M'- rne s'*' OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. n portages, this beat them all! Through a bog, wet and miifMy, over logs, and through bushes, well interlaced, we finally reached our resting-place on Rock Lake. We found that the only place suitable for a camp was on a rocky cliff, about thirty feet above the lake, not more than twenty feet clear on the surface, and little or no wood, as there had been a fire. The lake was alive with fish ; the doctor tried them, but they would not bite. Wearied and exhausted, we impatiently awaited the cooking of a pot of beans ; and before they were half boiled, so great was our hunger, we attacked the pot. We had to drive pegs in the crevices of the rock, and in many instances were compelled to put stones as weights on the canvas to keep the tent in place. Wc slept, however, soundly. Sunday, October i. — The night was stormy; thunder and lightning with high winds. The guides' tent was blown down on them, but they were so tired that they slept on when they found that their lives were safe, although the manner in which Bob prayed aloud would open the eyes of any saint. The doctor and myself tried to improve on our bed of the previous night by knocking off some of the sharp points of the rocks on which we slept. It was truly the hardest and most uneven that we ever slept on, and we prefer to be excused from a repetition ; so, as we had to remain there another night, we tried to make it at least smoother, if not softer. The doctor went out and caught eleven large trout, and as the larder was bare, it is no exaggeration to add that they were very acceptable after yesterday's tramp and our sumptuous (?) supper. m ii Hi III m ,11 !i 1 1 74 77/^ SPORTSAfAN'S PARADISE; The captain and Bob started back after the rest of the baggage, which they had left where we took hinch, and came into camp about four o'clock p.m. with a beautiful specimen of a large owl that they had shot. The doctor had to provide food for the camp, and brought in a fine lot of trout. We set Bob to work, with an axe, levelling our bed, by cutting out stumps, driving down stones, and raising up others. We had to be careful, for we were limited in space, — liable to fall and break our necks. It rained all day , the niides were in ])ad humor. Monday, 2d. — Clianged camp to-day. First we had a portage of a quarter of a mile to Mud Lake, followed by a portage of half a mile to Loon Lake, both of which we crossed, and camped between Loon and Grass Lakes. In crossing Loon Lake we trolled and caught some speckled and salmon trout, several weighing from two to three pounds. This is a beautiful lake, and we encamped on a lovely spot. There is about forty rods of ground intervening between the two lakes. We set to work here fixing our camp; the doctor gathering a fine supply of young branches for a bed, whilst I was making a fire to burn the roots and leave the ground nice and dry where we were to sleep. With our delightful situation — plenty of fine fish and an abundance of johnnj'-cake for supper — we were happy, and slept the sleep of the jusi. Tuesday, 3^. — Bob went out in quest of a dog that had folio w';d a deer yesterday and had not returned ; finally discovered him in the camp of a hunter named Harvey, and returned with him to us. I went out for a strol) and got some partridges. Bob and the captain went OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 75 after deer in the morning, but were unsuccessful. The doctor started out in the morning in search of partridge, and at four o'clock in the afternoon a furious storm arose. At half-past five we sent Bob out in a canoe across the lake, as we heard the report of the doctor's gun. The ' thunder and lightning were severe. After a while we made a fire on the border of Loon Lake to direct them home. In the glare of the lightning we saw Bob, in the canoe, shouting with his might and main. He finally reached the shore, though the wind lashed the lake into high waves. Again we heard the report of the doctor's gun ; this time the captain took one of the canoes and went in search of the doctor. The storm increased in violence ; it was a terrible night. Towards eight o'clock we heard shouting on the lake. It was the captain retu aing, bringing home my companion, — safe, though wet to tlie skin. He had built a fire and it had set fire to a decayed tree, which had some time before been struck by the Irghlning, and for a great distance around the fire lighted up everything, and thus directed the steps of the guide throygh the darkness to the spot Thf" doctor had wandered to another lake, and as he t ought he was yet c«i Loon Lake, he lost his way. He had not provided himself with a pocktl com- pass. It is a serious thing to get lost in the wilds of Canada . Wednesday, ^tk. — A fine breakfast, — partridges and splendid trout. We enjoy camp-life very much Went out deer-hunting, and before noon we had a fine buck hung up, weighing over two hundred pounds. ' "^ne of the dogs was again lost, and Bob went to hunt him up ; ; i'-i * Mil 'ill!! Il ' I 1^ THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; took my breech-loader with him. Scene, — Bob returns, swearing like a trojper ; wet and cold, — it is now the month of October and ice has already formed, — wants to change his clothing; stands by the camp-fire, dripping wet. In the mean time he shouts to me, " Your gun is lost ; it is ^ll#>« .1 j..< \. " It is a Mrrious thing to g^ lost in the wilds uf Canada." .-a;/^-''-' r in the bottom of the lake." He mfarms me llitit ihe dog upset the canr>e, and that he was compelled to swim ashore. Went fishing and caught aiMqF tfOUt, — as many as we desired. It rained several times tt» (Iwy, The boy, John, set his trap for mink and caught sevtMal. Made a rake to go fishing after my gun that went to the bottom of the lake. D'^ctor and Bob went to find the lost gun ; OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. n the captain and I after deer. We started one, which took to a neighboring lake. Went to this lake, and, the water being clear, we discovered the gun at tlie bottom. Took a line and hook and brought up the gun, the hook having caught the guard. It seems that there was no dog in the boat, and that Bob was about to fire when the canoe upset ; both barrels being cocked, as we discovered when we raised the gun. We joked Bob about the canoe being upset by a dog when there was a man in it. It was worse than sleeping in a hayslack. He felt sheepish and con- siderably " riled" ; so much so that he refused point-blank to accompany the doctor in the little canoe. It rained to-day. Friday, ttk. — Started a deer this morning, but after some running it took a direction straight^ from us, so that wc were obliged to give 't up. Returned to camp, and after dinner the captain went to try to get a man to help us move, as we have decided to go on to-monuvv. We obtaincMl a (pianlity of potatoes, Several birds wen- shot, and also a marten. Tried to fish, but they would not •iHse." Saturday, yih. — Broke camp and started to Sand Lake. The portage was three miles long, a good even trail, and we had a man to assist in carrying the luggage. On our way one of the dogs started a deer. The captain, who carried on his shoulders one of the canoes bearing our cooking-utensils and paddles, starteu on a run two miles from the lake to which we were bound. We proceeded leisurely, shooting partridge as we went along ; lost our way, and had to retrace our steps before we got on the 78 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; M , right trail. When we approached the border of the lake we found the sand strewn with kettles and pots, and on looking on the lake we beheld the captain driving before him a very fine deer, which the dog had started two miles back. The doctor took the other canoe, and with one of the guns killed the deer. The captain had no weapon with him except the paddle, and this he was unwilling to use on the deer. He kept it swimming until we arrived. We encamped in the midst of a pine grove, the most beautiful spot it was my good fortune to see. There lay tlie lake in all its natural beauty, backed by beautiful scenery ; trees that spring up sixty feet as straight as an arrow be- fore your eye would encounter a single branch. A silence that was solemn. The doctor and myself sat hour after hour gazing on the scene on a moonlight night, as the waters of the lake rippled on, and we exclaimed, '" Oh, that a painter worthy of the subject was here !" Here was nature unadorned, in all her primeval beauty. At some distance from us was a house, where we obtained milk and potatoes, which we relished. October lo. — Went to visit W. Tucker, where I dined and procured some bread. It seemed a little strange, after being out in camp, to be within the walls of a house. Had several hunters of the surrounding country to visit us. They were on a hunt ; had one deer. October ii. — Went out fishing on the lake in a dug- out, and while fishing shot a deer, which I brought to shore, Having towed it with the fishing-line. It was slow work bringing it in, as the pesky old dug-out was so easily upset. I astonished the doctor when I informed him that I caught OK, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA, 79 him on the line. We had now two other deer besides mine. 1 his lake is three miles long and one of the most beautiful of lakes. October 12. — Started for home. Crossed the lake, win- tered the waters of the South River, and paddled with a light heart for the land of the free. Wo came to Kearney, where there was a store, but no refreshments on hand. Kept on until three o'clock, and then lunched. Started again ; found many rapids where we were obliged to walk. Camped at six o'clock ; had abundance for dinner, — par- tridges, venison, and potatoes, no bread. Slept soundly. October 13. — Started early; at the first rapids one of the dogs tarted a deer ; had to wait an hour for the beast. The other canoe went ahead. The canoe leaked badly. Reached Burk's Falls at three and a half p.m. Here we took a steamboat, and after a safe and uneventful journey from this point, we reached home again October 16. ^■% I ^Ti IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) -^/ /#^4 %^ A -«/. iP I.U I" " 11.25 M 11112.5 Jf ^ lli'?,2 us I.I ! "^ illM 6" 18 14 11.6 V] <^ /i c^ ^;. w Phofographic Sdences Corporation 4\ ,4^ vV #^ 'V^ \ ^ '<^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WERSTER.N.Y. I4S80 (7.4) 872-4503 ^f <^. ^ > iP ^ II THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; CHAPTER V. 1 1 I The Start for a Grand Moose- and Dker-Hunt — Selection of a Photogra- pher AND the Chief Guide— A Romantic Wedding and the Honey- moon — Arrival at Rosseau Village — Canadian Stage Route — Proprietor AND Driver— Our Old Fxiend " Chris" — Our New-Made Acquaintances- Mr. Stkice, of Brooklyn. Hi' HE necessary preparations for a grand moose- and deer-hunt which I commenced in the month of July, ■'^1884, were not completed until the 20th of September in the same year. I had originally anticipated that I would be able to persuade some personal friend to accom- pany me ; but when I informed them that I should probably be away from home at least two months, and that there were certain hardships and privations that were inseparable from moose-stalking, I found no one inclined to become a member of my party. I was therefore placed in a position to organize this expedition on a basis which 'vas strictly in harmony with my own wishes. The great object that I wished to accomplish by this trip was an improvement of my health, inasmuch as I was then suffering from gluco- suria, making it necessary for me to take very active ex- ercise, which to a lazy man is commonly felt to be a mean sort of drudgery. I therefore took advantage of my love of the chase, and thereby changed what would otherwise » >■ ". < " "WWipW^IW^i^y^ til :< 1 O/?, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 8l have been an irksome duty into a pleasant pastime. It required but little reflection on my part to discern the ad- vantages that might accrue from the presence of a photog- rapher in my party, since he would enable me to bring away from the wilderness so many grand scenes which, otherwise, would be so soon forgotten, even by myself, and never enjoyed by my friends. It was while I was im- bued with this idea that I met Anton Mildenbeiger, an educated gentleman and highly skilled landscape photogra- pher, who very readily consented to become a member of my party. This gentleman possessed in a very high de- gree those qualities, physical, mental, and social, which are so important in every member of such a hunting-party. The reader will readily perceive that since there is much heavy labor to be performed, especially on the portages, it is very desirable that each member of the party should be able to give some assistance, and it likewise requires physical strength to travel long distances through these unbroken forests. It is equally evident that, prioi to engaging a photographer for such an expedition as I was about to start on, his mental and social qualities should be carefully con- sidered. Having given the necessary attention to all these points, I finally determined to employ Mr. Mildenberger. About the middle of August the terms were arranged, and he was requested to be in readiness for the departure on the 20th of September. I had reached the conclusion, prior to entering on this engagement, that the indiviaual selected for this duty was neither an epicure nor a dude, and therefore I believed that he might be able to content himself in a hunter's camp. This conclusion was. in some I 82 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; i 1 measure, based on the tact that. I had learned from a thor- oughly reliable source that my photographer had served as a private soldier in the German army during the whole of the Franco-Prussian War ; and I was then — as I am now — thoroughly convinced that in such a school a strong char- acter is formed, frivolities forgotten, and mafihood developed. Let the reader study the character of Anton Mildenberger throughout the entire story of this hunt before he declares that the opinion I have just expressed is incorrect. • The selection of the chief guide, although a matter of great importance to any hunting-party, did not in this in- stance require much thought on my part, as I was thor- oughly acquainted with George Ross, who resides at Spence, in the district of Muskoka, province of Ontario, Canada, and with whom the reader has already been made familiar in the preceding pages of this book, especially with his exploits in deer-hunting, etc. These remarkable feats, which have been recorded by my friend and com- panion in a former hunt in these backwoods, were all familiar to me when I made my arrangements for a third visit to this grand forest. I was likewise aware of the fact that there were then only two competent moose-hunters and guides for all that region which I had determined to enter, and these were Captain George Ross and h*s brother, Wellington, These brothers were the first white men to penetrate that magnificent forest lying north and northeast of Pickerel Lake and the Lake of the Bays and south of the Ottawa River for the purpose of trapping beaver. This forest still contains many thousand square miles, which are in the same primitive condition as they mssa OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 83 were a hundred years ago. It was in this great forest that I spent six vveelvs without meeting a human being, except the members of my own party, or seeing even a trapper's cabin, with the exception of two or three that had been built by the Ross brothers. These brcdiers liad been trapping in that wilderness about fourteen years, and are certain that when they first entered it it did not contain moose nor any trace of those animals. They say that the moose made their appearance here after the prevalence of heavy forest fires which prevailed in the country east of this region, and that this was contemporaneous with the commencement of work on the Canadian Pacific Railroad. I wrote to Captain George Ross, making my engagement with him about the middle of July, 1884; thus early in order that he might prepare the necessary outfit, and likewise construct new birch-bark canoes, and engage an assistant guide, etc. He promptly informed me of his acceptance, and promised to have everything in readiness for us. It was, therefore, with the fullest confidence in the complete- ness of my arrangements that I took my departure from Jersey City on the evening of the 20th of September, 1884, in company with my photographer. Nothing of importance transpired until we reached Gravenhurst wharf, on the 2 2d of September. This oc- curred at about two p.m., and we went immediately on board of the steamboat " Nippissing," where I met an in- telligent gendeman, who informed me that he was one of the first settlers in the vicinity of Rosseau, having settled about thirty years ago in the backwoods, built for himself and wife a small log cabin, and afterwards cut down the iH ^i';! W ; w ('■ 84 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; ''' forest-trees, changing the wilderness into a farm, on which he reared a family, and where he still continued to reside. He spoke of the sufferings and deprivations endured by himself and other pioneers who first ventured to settle in this cold, rocky wilderness, where they were generally widely separated from each other, and likewise at a great distance from those depots which furnished them with tiie necessaries of life. It often became necessary for these pioneers to walk through unbroken forests a distance of forty or sixty miles in order to buy provisions, or even mail a letter, while their only means of transportation, during the season in which the lakes and rivers were not frozen, was the birch-bark canoe ; but when these avenues of travel were closed with ice, they wf re then compelled to perform the labor which, in California and other portions of the United States, is done by pack-mules. Furthermore, the difficulty which attended this trans- portation of provisions was not by any means the most serious one with which they had to contend, inasmuch as the amount of cash carried by them into the wilderness was generally very limited, and consequently soon ex- hausted ; a condition which, in some instances, was fol- lowed by death from starvation, while in other cases these poor sufferers were compelled to subsist for many weeks on no other food than turnips, eaten without salt or pepper, while at other times a meal was made of birch-buds or seed-potatoes that had been planted some weeks. In order that the reader may understand this dreadful con- dition of things, he should be informed that the pioneers StIUJLi "11 •"**- OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. «5 who first settled on these " Free Grant Lands" were very poor, possessing no live-stock of any kind, and in many instances they were even strangers to the American ron- tioent, — persons who had been tempted by the offer of lands to leave their homes in Europe, and in many cases, too, these immigrants were entirely ignorant of all agricul- tural pursuits. Many of these people became quickly discouraged. Some turned back from the front without even attempting to battle with the cold climate and the discouraging sur- roundings ; some remained there only a few weeks or months, and then left the " Free Grant Lands" thoroughly discouraged and frequently half famished. However, there was still another class of these early adventurers who went into this wild wilderness — this land of beautiful lakes and hills — possessed of strong hands and strong wills, fully determined to make a home for themselves ; and tJiese have battled bravely ; have won, and to thevt belongs the spoils. It was to this class that the gentleman whom I met on the boat belonged. He supplied me with much valu- able information in regard to the early history of the country about Lakes Muskoka and Rosseau, — a district which is now fairly settled, and where the necessaries, with many of the luxuries, of life are now enjoyed by its inhab- itants. This gentleman, like the old soldier or sailor whom we occasionally meet, was delighted with the opportunity that was now offered him to detail to me his struggles and his successes ; and I was likewise highly pleased with the in- formation which he imparted. A process similar to that \ 4 : ( ■! S6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE: •which I have just described, in connection with the lands about these lakes, is now going on in the adjacent terri- tory, although I think the Canadian government is giving more assistance to these struggling pioneers. Assistance is afforded to the immigrants by the erection of a house at various points along the canoe routes, where provisions are stored, and where the weary traveller is permitted to halt and refresh himself until able once more to move forward. Important assistance is also afforded to these early settlers by the government in the construction of wagon roads, which open up the forest soon after the advance of the pioneers, and the establishment of schools and post-offices wherever demanded by the representative heads of five families. It will thus be observed that the pioneer has no just cause for complaint against the gov- ernment at the present day. Having portrayed some of the stern realities of life in these regions, we will now turn to a mere romantic occur- rence, which we are informed was enacted on Lake Ros- seau and other neighboring lakes during the summer of 18S4. A young gentleman, die son of the pioneer whom I met on the steamboat " Nippissing," had determined to take to himself a wife. He had been employed several years as a clerk in a banking-house at Toronto, and it was in this city that he met the young lady whom he subsequently married. In order that the marriage might be in keeping with the honeymoon, it had been decided that it should be celebrated on a green-clad island in the centre of Lake Rosseau, — the same beautiful sheet of water near which he made his first appearance, as an infant, to the great jggmm i OH, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 87 delight of his father's heart, just twenty-five years prior to this nuptial celebration, which occurred on the twenty-fifth day of June, 1884. Very little preparation had been made on the island, or, in fact, was needed for the proper cele- bration of this important event, since the underbrush was not, at any point, dense ; consequently the assembled guests could pass readily from one part of the beautiful grove to another without that inconvenience that other- wise might have been felt, especially by the ladies in the party. The trees growing on this island consisted prin- cipally of five varieties: near the water's edge were seen the graceful tamarack and the beautiful balsam, while rising high above the others and near its centre were observed three great white pines, and these were sur- rounded by a heavy growth of white and yellow birch- trees. The appearance of the island has changed very little since the first settlers paddled their birch-bark canoes through the clear waters of Lake Rosseau. Fire, the great destroyer of the primitive beauty of the surrounding forest, had left this spot untouched, and here stood to-day the same giant trees which forty years ago had served the groom's father as the beacon-guide to his forest home. Great changes during this period had been wrought on the shores of Lake Rosseau ; the set- tlers at various places had made clearings and built for themselves the primitive log cabins, which had, in some cases, passed away, giving place to beautiful frame cot- tages. Much of the remaining wilderness has been burned over, killing the great forest-trees, which were, ! 'if I 88 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; III 'I ■/ I I however, still standing, speaking to us, like the Egyptian pyramids, of the times that have passed ; and these dead trunks without branches are now surrounded by young, living trees, which have sprung up subsequently to these fires. Other changes had already been inaugurated, but not by the sturdy pioneer; these originated with the city denizens, who have selected certain choice spots on which they have erected summer-homes. • We have thus carefully described the island and its sur- roundings prior to inviting the reader to witness with us the joyful ceremony which was just about to be performed in this romantic spot. The appointed day was at hand; the sun was journeying rapidly towards the western horizon ; it was already three o'clock ; the hour of four had been fixed for the performance of the ceremony, and our informant had determined to be on the spot in time to witness the arrival of the bride and groom, who, with their city friends, were expected to come on the steamboat, which would land them on the island. The other invited guests, living about the lake, were expected to come in such boats, canoes, etc., as they possessed. Soon after three o'clock there could have been seen approaching the island several small row- boats, a half-dozen canoes, and a single dug-out. Each boat carried several persons, males and females, young and old, attired in their holiday suits : these boats contained the more wealthy class of pioneers with their families. The occupants of the canoes were chiefly males and belonged to the hunting classes. These hunters were for the most part attired in hunting-coats, which were ornamented with much fringe, thus displaying a characteristic of the original OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA, 89 inhabitant of these grand forests, and this was further imi- tated by the bnght colors shoion in the various articles of dress, especially in the needle-work that ornamented their moccasins. The solitary occupant o^ the dug-out was a poor im- migrant, who had but recently arrived in this country in order to avail himself of the " Free Grant Lands," and likewise settle near his brother, who had preceded him twenty years, having settled on this lake in 1864. It was half-past three o'cIock when the steamboat was descried approaching the island from the direction of Toronto. At this moment many of the invited guests residing about the lake had effected a landing. The boats and canoes of these were drawn well on terra Jirma, while there was still a certain number of the small water-craft to be seen on the lake. The point selected for the landing of the steamboat was well chosen. It was directly in front of a large, flat rock, which extended from the water's edge back several rods into the forest, while its width was about one-third of its length. The upper surface of this rock did not rise at any point materially above the surface of the surrounding earth, while the water in front of it was now more than six feet deep, enabling the steamer to approach, run out its ordinary gang-plank, and deliver its passengers with- out the slightest danger, having been previously made fast by means of ropes to two balsam-trees which were stand- ing in convenient positions. This steamboat had been the principal object of attention by all parties assembled on the island, from the moment when she was first sighted in ■*> ii'l II Y\ THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; W. r ' the distance until tiiey greeted her arrival at this point. Especially had the group seated on her upper forward deck been the object of attention. This party was com- posed of an equal number of neatly-clad males and fe- males, who had seated themselves in chairs, that had been arranged more or less regularly around the central figures, — the bride and groom. This company was composed mainly of the bride's relatives who resided in the vicinity of Toronto. The bride was, this day, the most important personage in the whole party, and therefore ntitled to a brief description at our hands, although our informant was not able to give us all the information that we desired, especially that which related to her trousseau, and therefore our readers must pardon the omission of much which would certainly serve to embellish this part of our story. The bride had just attained her twentieth birthday, and had received, through the careful attention of her parents, a sound education. It had been their strongly-cherished desire to prepare her for the stern duties of life rather than to give her a mere smattering of those branches of learning that are merely ornamental, and often learned only to be forgotten a few months after leaving the recitation-room. She had, there- fore, been thoroughly trained by her mother in the man- agement of household affairs, even without neglecting the highly-important lessons in domestic economy. She like- wise possessed a thorough English education, having shown in school a great aptness for mathematical studies, in which she particularly excelled. In personal appearance she was comely without being !i:i OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 91 a remarkable beauty. She had been a great favorite with the gentlemen, but no man lived who could truthfully as- sert that she had ever llirted. Her figure was symmet- rical and her movements g«"aceful. She stood about five feet and ten inches, attired as she was on the day that she was married. She belonged to that class of beauties com- monly designated as brunettes, having a dark complexion, black hair, brown eyes, and a well-rounded face. Iler forehead was moderately high and rather broad. The eyes were of medium iize, full, and when in repose wore a kindly expression, but were capable, under excitement, of expressing the deepest love or the most intense hatred. The nose was rather long, but shapely; .nouth only of medium size ; chin v/ell rounded and not too prominent. It will noc now surprise the reader when informed that this lady's countenance, in repose, seemed only m-Jerately attractive, but when lighted up with strong excitement it became divinely expressive. The groom, who now sat at her side, was tall and rather slender, his figure erect, bear- ing dignified, movements slightly awkward, while the ex- pression of his countenance wanted a little in that firmness and force which characterized the bride's. He was fully six feet in height, having a light complexion, light-brown hair, light-blue eyes, which were slightly sunken, thin face, with thin straggling side-whiskers, a small nose, moderately large mouth, and a slightly-receding chin and forehead. We have now given the reader as much of the personality of the bride and groom as will amply suffice for this occasion. In the matter of dress, we can only say that the groom wore a soft felt hat. and that not a single silk Hi \ 111 |i ■ I .in 1 I 92 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; \\aX. was to be seen in the whole party. The ladies were neatly attired for the occr^'on, bat cilk and satin dresses were conspicuous only by their entire absence. Bright- colored ribbons and good cheer prevailed among the as- sembled females. Let us now return to the landing of the guests whom we have carefully surveyed on the steamer's deck. The moment this vessel had been made fast the party seated on the upper deck arose and descended to the gang-plank, over which they passed, the ladies resting gracefully on the arms of their escorts, the bride and groom being the third couple to land. The party passed forward over the smooth but gradually ascending surface of the rock, which has already been described, in the same order they had left the steamer, until they were hidden in the grove. The moment they stepped from this rock they found the earth covered .vith a thick layer of beautiful moss, extending in every direction about them for many rods, while in front there had been arranged an elerant arcii, formed by entwining the branches of two neighboring trees, and this bower had been handsomely decorated with wild flowers, conspicuous among which were the wild roses that abound along the shores of this lake. When the first couple reached this spot they halted, the lady dropped the arm of her escort and passed to the right, the gentleman passing to the left; then each faced about towards the landing-place, thus making room for the others who formed under the beautiful arch. The bride and groom were the third couple to take theit place in nature's bower, and when they had faced towards the lake there were now s^^en standing to the right of the bride three fair ladies, while V.t\ 'ii:i OJi, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 93 the groom was supported on his left by the same number of gentlemen. The invited guests now faced the bride and groom. At this moment there appeared before them an old gentleman wearing the official robes of an Epis- copal clergyman, holding in his hand a book. The cere- mony is quickly performed, congratulations are in order; many voices are heard on every side, but there was no formal wedding reception. Baskets are brought forward, — their contents quickly arranged on the linen which had been spread for this p' partake of the refreshments, giving to the assemblage the appearance of a grand picnic in nature's grandest forest. All things must end, and so did this grand festival. Night was approaching, and the in- vited guests must return ; but we must look a little further after the newly-wedded couple. Before the steamer took her departure from the island the deck-hands had been observed to bring on shore a beautiful Peterborough canoe, and others soon followed who carried two leather valises, two camp-stools, and several bundles. All these Various articles had been temporarily deposited on the rock near the water s edge. The remnants of the refreshments having been gath- ered up and replaced in the baskets, a rarty of men are seen to go down to the canoe, seize hold of the bundles, valises, camp-stools, etc., and bring them forward to the arch, beneath which was quickly erected a new, beautiful, and commodious tent. A balsam bed was quickly made v;ithin it, and the other household goods properly ar- ranged. The invited guesu soon take their leave of the ; 1;; :|il! 94 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. m i I i\ newly-wedded pair ; the steamer takes its departure from the rock, where it had remained in waiting for the pas- sengers. The bride and groom have come to the water's edge to receive the parting sakites of their friends ; the row-boats, canoes, and the dug-out have all withdrawn from the island, and the wedded pair have retired from the lake-shore to the bridal bower, where they remained the sole occupants of this island for about forty-eight hours. They then started on an extended and novel wedding-tour, which lasted some six weeks, during which period they travelled more than one thousand miles on these mountain lakes. The Peterborough canoe, which has already been mentioned, served as the vehicle for their journeyings, and the handsome tent which was erected on the island soon after the performance of the marriage cere- mony was their bridal-chamber. They spent only a small portion of their honeymoon on Lake Rosseau, but passed from one mountain lake to another, the husband transport- ing the canoe and other lUggage on the portages, while the wife walked at his side, or more frequently followed behind him in true Indian style. Thus they journeyed from lake to lake, visiting the pioneer villages situated on these beautiful bodies of water for the purpose of purchasing such supplies as their frugal mode of life required. Here, on the lakes of this wild mountain country, in the bright summer months of June and July, they continued to bask in sunshine and love, undisturbed by the rude and unsym- pathetic crowds that are often met with on the ordinary highways of travel. We find it impossible, while contemplating the wander- MtHrttHaa 1' ir TV ii;i| if ■'I m i 1 "t f' ; 1 f ■ ■ . '* i/ i '"Tig aRoS A wedding in the wildernesj. fiCK r f J *•' i 96 rif£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; |i i ings of the newly-wedded pair in this wild and romantic region, to refrain from following with our imagination the ancient Huron and his new-made wife. If we go back only a few decades in the history of this country we find it in the possession of a mighty tribe of Indians, — the Hurons, who were ruthlessly destroyed by their implacable enemy, the Iroquois. However, if we believe the history which has been transmitted to us, we find very little in the relation of these scenes that would be pleasing to the reader in this con- nection. " Female life among the Hurons had no bright side. It was a youth of license, an age of drudgery." It must, therefore, be apparent to any one that a comparison here would be odious, and consequently we will now bid adieu to the newly-wedded pair. In the contemplation of that which we have written on this subject, the inquiry forces itself upon us, Why have the names of these interesting persons been omitted while other details have been given ? In reply to this inquiry the author would say that it was the father of the groom who gave him most of the points that have been here interwoven in this narrative, and there- fore he withholds the names by request of his informant. Furthermore, it will be observed that this story, involving a marriage and a wedding-tour, is only a wild flower, plucked from our pathway through the wilderness, presented to the reader for momentary gratification ; but it forms no es- sential part of the general character of this book. Pardon, therefore, our digression, and go with us to the Mountain House in the village of Rosseau, where we arrived about six o'clock on the evening of the 2 2d of September. li OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 97 It was in the office of this hotel that I first observed Mr. Struce, of Brooklyn, New York, whom I recognized as a sportsman by his dress, and the fact that he was car- rying a gun. This gentleman afterwards became a mem- ber of our party, and remained with us a few days while we were encamped on Lake Ahmic, near Maganetawan village. The hotel at which we were stopping, now the only one at this point, was the resort of all the loungers of the village as well as travellers. The evening meal was served in the dining-room soon after our arrival, and there seemed to be about thirty guests in the hotel. Experience had already taught me that it is very diffi- cult to advance from this point into the forest if you are burdened with more than ten or twelve pounds of lug- gage, and consequently at an early hour in the evening I began to make inquiry in regard to a conveyance to take us to Maganetawan village, situated about thirty-seven miles from this place. I learned at the hotel-office that a stage, now owned and driven by a Mr. Bess, would leave for Maganetawan the next morning, arriving at its destination some time in the evening of the same day. The proprietor of this line was soon pointed out to me, and in answer to my question, " Can you take us to Maganetawan to-morrow ?" he in- quired, " How much baggage have you ?" I informed him that we had about one hundred and fifty pounds. He immediately replied, " I cannot take your baggage to-mor- row ; but I can take you and your companion, and will deliver your baggage for you at Maganetawan village 7 ili ■I ;i ;'ai 1 ' if k. \ h ' l%\ i B I.' 1i i >■-■■•. S _!_ ^ ■il 98 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; If ;■ i ■' ! r I 111 )( I '5 ". ill i 1 t liii within one week, at an extra charge of six dollars." The regulai stage fare for a passenger between these points is a dollar and fifty cents, while for four times that amount the accommodating stage-owner was willing to transport for us, provided we allowed him one week in which to do the work, one hundred and fifty pounds of baggage. I urged this stage-driver very strongly to provide some means by which our baggage would reach Maganetawan the next day ; was willing to give him the additional six dollars, but he positively refused. In fact, he showed no disposition to aid us in our efforts, and said that he already had as many passengers, who had engaged seats in his stage, as he could conveniently carry. This disinclination to accommodate travellers seemed to me very strange and entirely incomprenensible ; but a subsequent investigation supplied me with a partial explanation. This man, Bess, through political influence, had secured the contract to carr}' the mail on that line, but inasmuch as he was en- tirely wanting in enterprise, he had neglected to provide for the accommodation of the travelling public. The ex- planation of how he could afford to carry passengers over the line for one dollar and fifty cents, while he demanded four times as much for transporting the same weight in baggage, is possibly found m the fact that the accommo- dations for passengers within his stage are so bad that all passengers are compelled, in self-interest, to walk at least three-fourths of the whole distance. It will, therefore, be observed that the one dollar and fifty cents paid by a passenger really entitles him to ride only about nine miles on the Queen's highway in Bess's stage. This stage was mmm m ''li OJi, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 99 J owned and managed, in the autumn of 1880, by a good- natured and accommodating German, familiarly called " Chris," of whom I shall have something to say hereafter. My attempt to negotiate for the transportation of my party and our luggage with Mr. Bess ended in a failure. Further inquiry at the hotel-office afforded nothing satis- factory. It is true I learned that there was no one living in the village, owning horses, who would be willing to take us to our destination. This was not in the least encour- 3gir»g' I was determined, however, to go forward on the following day if it were possible. I made inquiry in re- gard to the feasibility of obtaining a team or transportation from some farmer living in the vicinity. The first objection made to this plan by the bystanders was, ** You will find it impossible to get a messenger to go into the country among the farmers to-night; it is too late," although it was not yet ten o'clock. I had already been more than two hours engaged in my efforts to secure transportation, but without success. At this moment I discovered Chris, and immediately approached him, when he extended his hand and asked if I was out on another hunting expedi- tion. I answered in the affirmative, and then made known to him my pressing wants. He said, " I am here with my old team, but my wagon is already loaded with merchan- dise for Maganetawan, some portions of which is in urgent demand." I saw that here was my only chance. Chris would like very much to oblige me ; it was not easy for him to say " no." He told me that within a few weeks he had been very unfortunate, — his dwelling-house had been burned, with all his household furniture ; that a portion of ; 111 % 1 1 , !(« \ iiS ' .ill :•, lOO THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; !; Bit 1^^: :; ^^ii; .-.If ^ ' <'i li- the load on his wagon at the present time was window- glass intended for the new domicile that he was now erecting. I inquired, "What will you charge to take us with our luggage to Maganetawan to-morrow ?" He re- plied, " It is worth about six dollars, but I don't think I can do it to-morrow." I observed that his manner was some- what hesitating. Chris was not entirely satisfied with him- self and his answer. I said to him, "Chris, remove your load and take us to Maganetawan to-morrow, and I will give you twelve dollars for the job." A smile came over his face ; it was evident that I had won. In a few moments he said, " The load shall come off my wagon and you shall be in Maganetawan to-morrow night. What hour do you wish to start?" I said, "You may suit yourself in that matter." He replied, "All right; let us get away from here very early. I will call you at four o'clock." It was about fifteen minutes after four when Chris knocked at my door the next morning. I was then already dressed, and so was the photographer, who had occupied the room with me during the night. We followed Chris down-stairs and there found Mr. Struce, who was at this moment standing with his gun in hand ready to accompany us. We had not yet spoken together; he had learned that Chris was engaged to take myself and the artist to Maganetawan, and had determined to accompany us. He had already made an arrangement with Chris, and was now ready to start, instead of waiting for the Bess stage until a late hour. He greeted us pleasantly when we came into his presence that morning, saying, "Good-morning, gentlemen. I have determined to travel with you to-day, |i:fl OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. XOI unless you have some objection." I promptly assured him that we should be very happy to have his company, especially as I recognized him as a brother sportsman. Here began a very pleasant acquaintance. ..«i : ■ I I02 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; I'll. ill CHAPTER VI. Our Departure from Rosseau— A Charming Mornincj and a Healthful Walk — Camped near Spence — Incidents which occurred there — Joined BY our Guides — Campkd on Birch Island— Camp-Life on Ahmic Lake — Struce starts for Home — The Balance of the Party off on a Long Tramp- -The Beaver's Trysting-Places — The Photographer's Sport near Burk's Falls— Plodding through Woods after Dark — Thb Youthful Driver — Arrival at Sphvnx Shoot. \\'.\ ii I.!! |ii|' i ■it r '\ ! i /;.' ' 1 \ ^T was nearly five o'clock on the morning of »3d of September when our party took departure from Rosseau. The dark- 5s of night still enshrouded the earth ; the air was cold and chilly, while the ground was covered with a heavy frost. Chris's old gray horses, which are now at least twenty-one years of age, moved forward just as well as they did four years ago when I rode behind them over the same route. The morning is so chilly that Chris, Struce, and Mildenberger prefer to walk rather than ride in this wagon, which is not supplied with springs, over the rocky mountain road. I have, therefore, at the request of Chris, mounted the driver's seat, wrapped myself in the horse- blankets, seized the reins and whip, and am thus duly in- stalled in this new position. The photographer and Mr. Struce very soon disap- peared in the darkness after leaving the hotel, but Chris 1:H:;1; OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. lO' remained near the team to give me such instruction as was. needed to pass the team safely over this road. The cold was so severe and the road so rough that, having ridden about three miles, I called on Chris to resume the charge of his team, while I was now ready to follow the example of my companion?. The gray dawn of the morning had made its appeararce in place of the dim starlight that pre- vailed at the time we started from Rosseau. Having transferred the r-iins to Chris I descended from the driver's seat, passed to die front of the team, and started forward at a lively pace, determined to quickly overtake Struce and Mildenberger. It was probably about half an hour before I caught sight of my companions, who were still about a mile ahead of me, and moving forward at good speed, while the sun was now shining brightly, lighting up the hill-tops, causing the frozen drops of water, which were clinging to the branches of leafless trees, to sparkle with the resplendent beauty of pure diamonds in a bright gas-light. The grandeur of this scene afforded me the purest joy. I inhaled this mountain air — loaded with ozone — as the hungry man partakes of the choicest viands. The rapid step at which I was moving forward caused me to expel, in the first part of my journey, the old residuary air with which the lungs of every sedentary person are more or less filledy thereby enabling me to seize and appropriate a very large quantity of this grand atmospheric stimulant, which now caused the blood to course rapidly through every part of the body, producing a joyous thrill ir every fibre. In this mental and physical condition it was a pleasure lii'li i i!: ''/:!i i'M Sji I04 TJIK SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; KA I. II 'I to move rapidly forward. The reader will not, therefore, be surprised when informed that I soon found myself in the company of my com(>anions, who had taken the lead immediately after our departure from the hotel at Rosseau. We now journeyed on together, and reached the "Ten- Mile Lake Hotel" before eight o'clock. Here we ordered breakfast, which was to be served as soon as Chris should arrive with his team and our baggage. My companions had walked this morning, without food or stimulants, ex- cept that supplied by an invigorating atmosphere, ten miles. I had walked seven and did not feel fatigued. It was more than an hour after our arrival here before Chris came up with his team. The long journey had fully prepared us to enjoy the breakfast, which consisted, principally, of delicious venison, pure country butter, home-made bread, coffee, and wild honey. I am sure that our entire party, this morning, thought our breakfast good enough for a king. Every article of food placed before us was of excellent quality, and the serving could not have been improved. We complimented the hostess on her excellent table ; she thanked us kindly, and, having probably learned that we hailed from the United States, then inquired if any one in our party was acquainted in New Hampshire, which, she now informed us, was her native place. We were com- pelled to answer her inquiry in the negative, but she now volunteered the information that she had only lived in Canada since her marriage. We had already spent at this wayside hotel more than two hours ; the sun was still shining brightly, but it was 11 SB 'Mt OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA. 105 necessary for us to go forward in ortl(;r that we might reach the end of our journey this day before nightfall. We were now about twenty-seven miles from Maganet- awan, and nearly twenty-one from Spence, the home of Captain George Ross, whom I had engaged as our chief guide. It is not yet certain whether we shall remain to- night at Spence or go on to Maganetawan, inasmuch as I have not consulted with the captain in regard to our future movements. The team plodded steadily along the moun- tain-road to-day. Neither Mr. Struce nor Mildenberger have ridden in the wagon. They started on foot and so continue to journey on. It was about three o'clock when we arrived at Spence, a small hamlet, consisting of a wayside hotel, post-office, and about half a dozen log cabins. We halted at the hotel for our dinner, while Chris took this opportunity to {qq(\ his team. Immediately after our arrival I succeeded in finding a messenger, whom I sent to Captain Ross's residence, which is situated about one-half mile from the hotel, wiin instructions to bring him to me. The messenger returned, after an absence of about forty minutes, accompanied by a young man, who informed me that the captain was away from home, engaged in a deer-hunt, but would certainly return within a few hours, as he was expecting the arrival of my party on the following day. After a brief con- sultation with the young man, who informed me that he was now staying at the captain's house, and had re- ceived instructions prior to the captain's departure that should we arrive during his absence he — the young man — was to make us comfortable, I determined to halt at I pfa ir'f ilr. :;v l! i ■iuJ 1 1 '5l io6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE,- M I 1 \l 'hi' this place, or near it, and await the return of our guide. The dinner being finished we again started forward, after having spent about an hour and a liaif at the hotc!. We camped this night in tiie woods near the roadside, about one mile from the hotel at Spence where we had dined, and about five miles from the village of Maganetawan, while our tent was now standing within forty rods of Ahmic Lake. The young man who has already been mentioned as having reported to me on the return of the messenger whom I had sent for the captain, after my arrival at Spence, was now with us. He had brought with him from the cap- tain's cabin an axe, which is so necessary in a hunters camp. Five minutes after our arrival on the ground where we had determined to camp, it was plainly evident to me that my new-made friend was not a novice at this sort of work. He knew exactly what was necessary to be done, and was not slow in giving assistance. It required but a few minutes to erect our tent and make all the needed preparations for the night ; but this had scarcely been com- pleted when the rain commenced to fall, although the sky had been cloudless when we arrived at the hotel in Spence. The young man proposed to bring us our suppers from the captain's cabin, but this was deemed unnecessary by the whole party, inasmuch as we had partaken of our dinner at a late hour. The first night under the canvas was spent very com- fortably, while a bright fire burned in front of our open tent until long after midnight. Notwithstanding the fact that a heavy rain-storm had set in, we remained perfectly dry and serenely happy. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 107 September 24. — The rain is still falling. The young man who was instructed by the captain to look after us during his absence was in camp with our breakfast soon after seven o'clock this morning. He came provided with the necessary cooking utensils to serve it hot. Having completed our breakfast, the photographer took up my Bal- lard rifle and asked the young man to accompany him to the lake. He had not been absent from the tent five min- utes when I heard the report of the gun ; other shots fol- lov/ed this ; seven had soon been fired. There was a lapse of probably about three minutes after the last report was heard when Mildenberger made his appearance before the tent asking for a shot-gun, saying at the same time, excitedly y " / have just fired five shots at a partridge sitting on a tree, and the youn^ man has fired two ; the bird has not moved, and 1 don't believe she knows that she is wanted!' It has previously been mentioned that Mildenberger had served in the artillery with the German army during the Franco- Prussian war, but these shots failed to convince us that he was skilled in the use of the rifle. In fact, other observa- tions forced the conclusion that he had not, prior to this, been accustomed to the use of even a shot-gun. He proved, however, to be a very apt scholar in these matters, and before he left the woods he was quite an expert in the use of both the shot-gun and rifle. I saw him with the shot-gun handsomely drop birds on the wing, while with the rifle he could occasionally knock off a partridge's head with- out injuring its body. At the particular time when he required a shot-gun to compel the partridge to recognize that she was wanted, the bird — it is thought — became im- %. iil Vi '\'\\^ ■n :■ \ io8 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. in n patient, since Mildenberger has not yet succeeded in finding her, although he has made long and diligent search. The phrase, "I don't beUeve she knows that she is wanted," became one of very common use in our party, and was applied on all occasions when the ^ame remained jninjured after a shot was fired. The rain continued to fall until about ten o'clock, when the clouds showed some signs of breaking, and the sim occasionally peeped out through an open space, although there was very little clear sky visible during the day. Struce and Mildenberger succeeded in taking some fine bass in Ahmic Lake during the afternoon. I took a stroll through the wood, accompanied by twc cocker-spaniels, which are to take part with us in this campaign. I was not fortunate in finding game: saw only a single bird. Captain Ross and his nephew made their appearance in our camp before sunset. The captain greeted me pleasantly. We had not met during the preceding four years, and as he now stood before me he appeared the same as when I parted with him at Spence, in the autumn of 1880, after we had finished that hunt. He now introduced us to his nephew, George Ross, and informed me that he had engaged this man to accompany us as a guide. Struce and Mildenberger were made ac- quainted with these men who were to become members of our party. It had also been previously agreed between Struce and myself that an additional guide would be at least desirable as long as Mr. Struce remained in our party. I therefore made inquiry of the captain about his brother, Wellington, with whom I was somewhat acquainted, know- ,, lii \,, it m " I don't believe she knows ihat she is wanted." no THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; \ ii ' ,-|i ing that no better guide could be found in the region of Maganetawan. He replied, " I think Wellington will be able to be with us after a few days." The captain, with the assistance of his nephew, made all the necessary arrangements for the night. Wood was provided, supper prepared, and the captain's tent put up. In the mean time it has been arranged that a deer-hunt shall take place to-morrow on Ahmic Lake. The guides will now remain constantly with us in camp ; this will be a marked improvement, and will add much to our happiness and comfort. The party, as now arranged, consists of five persons, and we are provided with five dogs, — two of them intended to be employed in deer-hunting, while three are cocker- spaniels, used only in bird-she oting. The following morn- ing the sport commenced at an early hour, and we were back in our camp before eleven o'clock. Struce and my- self, with the guides, had hunted deer, while Mildenberger had started out in search of ruffed sfrouse. The sport opened this morning fairly well. Struce shot a fawn, Mildenberger killed four partridges, and I took some bass while on the way tc the point, where I was stationed by the captain to watch for deer. A good dinner was served for us by our guides on our return to camp. We had brought into camp some delica- cies, and likewise tin plates, tin cups, etc. ; consequently our table and culinary department were quickly placed on a sound basis. The camp which we had formed by the wayside, immediately after our arrival, was thought to be no longer desirable, and consequently our guides moved OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. Ill our quarters, on the afternoon of September 25, to Birch Island, which is situated in Lake Ahmic. The photographer was at the same time engaged in taking some views on this lake, while I was absent search- ing for ruffed grouse. We were joined in the evening by Wellington Ross, who now becomes a member of our party. The sport went on, from day to day, in about the same manner as has been already detailed. The evenings ./ere passed very pleasantly before the camp-fire ; the captain and his brother, although very modest men, have had a large experience in hunting and trapping, and they narrate this experience in a quaint and quiet way, after we finally succeed in getting them started. Wellington has spent a few years on the Pacific coast, and describes the game and the methods of hunting in that region, as well as the nature of the country, the timber- growths, etc. Our friend Struce, who classes himself among the amateur sportsmen of the United States, has certainly sufficient experience to enable him, in camp, to add his full quota to the enjoyment of a party of hunters. He tells a bear story well, although he does not even claim to have hunted bruin. The captain has killed several bears, but these animals with which he came in contact and slaughtered were, apparently, very well behaved, and died without making any unusual fuss about it. Thus day after day was passed in hunting and fishing and social inte'-course around the camp-fire ; but at last our friend Struce decided that he could remain no longer with us, and that the next day he must take his departure for Brooklyn. It had been intended by the whole party that r ~i 5f i''"fii 7" -''I ■I il!^ i ,i;i i 112 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; I l» 1;;; our photographer should take a camp picture prior to this separation. That design, however, was frustrated by a pouring rain that continued during the whole day prior to his departure, September 29. This morning was clear and bright. We were up and stirring before it was fairly light. Having breakfasted. Captain Ross and Struce started for Spence, where the latter expected to meet the stage from Maganetawan, which was to take him to Rosseau on his way home. The captain's deer-dogs have not been in camp for the past twenty-four hours. I speak of the captain's AQ.^x-dogs instead of employing the word hounds^ for the reason that there is not a drop of hound blood in their veins. These dogs are really mongrels, although 1 presume the collie breed predominates. The collie breed is highly praised by all the backwoodsmen with whom I have come in contact in Canada. He is praised as a val- uable house-dog, an excellent dog with cattle, and when trained to run deer some claim to think him even superior to the hound. The captain's dogs were certainly very good animals. When placed on a deer's track they seldom failed to run him to water, but the one fault which I desire here to men- tion with regard to this entire breed of dogs is, that when used in hunting deer they give very little " tongue." This one defect in the dog deprives the sportsman of the ex- citement and pleasure which he would otherwise feel in listening to the voice of the running hound. To my ear there are few sounds more charming. I listen eagerly to this music in order to determine the approach of the deer, and the hound's loud voice on a cool, frosty morning, mk \m \V. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 1^3 although it may be only faintly heard, serves to make the blood course more rapidly through my veins, while at the same time it cheers my spirits and warms my body. Give me, therefore, the musical hound in deer-hunting, instead of the best collie ever imported from old Scotland. The captain has gone in search of his pets. Wellington and George Ross are packing the camp equipage this morning, that we may be off for Burk's Falls. An ac- quaintance of the guides, whom they address as " Isaacs," has made his appearance in our camp. He is out search- ing for a lost dog. He is urged by the guides to take a hand in our moving, and finally consents. Therefore a por- tion of luggage was placed in his bateau for transportation to Maganetawan, which we reached about half-past nine o'clock, having travelled this morning in our canoe about three miles. These canoes and our luggage were placed on the little river steamer " Pioneer," which is to take us up the Maga- netawan River to Burk's Falls, distant from this village about thirty-five miles. The captain made his appeaiance soon after our lug- gage had been loaded on the little steamer, but he had not succeeded in finding his lost dogs. He is, therefore, com- pelled to remain behind and make further search for the animals, which are indispensable in hunting deer at this season of the year, when the trees are still covered with leaves. The loss of deer-hounds or other dogs that are employed in deer-hunting is not an infrequent occurrence, and commonly happens by the dogs continuing to follow a deer to some distant lake. The reader will readily per- 8 - l;^! % ■ vli ' N' i: '(' ( ^)'i -4 114 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; ii ceive by what has already been said that the deer does not always come to the exact spot at which the sportsman is stationed, or even to the lake at which he is wanted. Few dogs possess sufficient sagacity to return on their own trail and thus reach their master. I have seen only a single animal that would uniformly follow out this course. That dog, an animal called " Fan," was the prop- erty of Dr. Pokorney, and has already been described in this book. When the captain reached us, he soon learned that his brother had gone to his house in the village of Maga- netawan, and he promptly started to find him, in order that Wellington might accompany us in his (the captain's) place. This arrangement may last only a few days, or it may be a week before the captain's search will be rewarded b" finding his lost pets. We left Maganetawan about eleven o'clock in the morning, and reached Burk's Falls before four o'clock p.m. The scenery along this river is certainly very pictur- esque. The banks are covered with heavy forest-trees, and there are aquatic plants and bushes growing in the shallow water along the shore. The amount of clearing along the banks of this river, seen from the decks of our litde steamer, was very limited in the autumn of 1884. Captain Ross, when descending the Maganetawan in com- pany with the author, in 1880, pointed out to us the very spot where several years ago he saw his first moose. He gave us a clear description of the animal, and did not seem well pleased with himself because he had failed to kill the monster with a single charge of buckshot, which he gave OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 115 him with his compliments, this being the best he could do under the circumstances. It was during this same trip down the river that the captain gready interested me by the description which he gave of the beaver " trysting-places." The captain is cer- tainly a matter-of-fact man, possessed of no romantic ideas, and yet the statements which he made on this occasion may seem to savor strongly of fiction, akliough I am fully convinced that he believes in the beaver " trysting-place," and in all the details that he has given pertaining to the same, including even the acting of the animals. The nar- rator commenced by saying that many years ago, while travelling through these woods, he discovered a mound that had been recendy raised by the heaping up of the soft earth, the measurements of the same being about two feet in diameter and about six inches in height, while it was almost circular in outline. This mound bore the positive impress of the animal by which it had been reared, and this serves as the beaver's " trysting-place." In order that we might understand the nature and necessity of the trysting-places, the captain made the fol- lowing statement : " It is chiefly in winter that the beavers congregate, and then only a single family occupies the same lodge or house, although there may be several fami- lies living within the waters raised by the dam that has been erected by their united efforts. The family may consist of a single adult, male and female, or they may have with them two, four, six, or eight of their own off- spring, which have not yet fully matured. When, however, these young beavers are fully grown, they go forth from '•"J ■Ml; y'% ■'■Hi!: ■y'' % Ml }9 Ii6 TI/£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; \ K :t !i ;) I i>-^- If Hi t; I the parental roof in search of a partner, with the inten- tion of establishing a new home. It also frequently hap- pens that the family circle has been impaired through the agency of the hunter or trapper, — that the father or mother has been trapped or killed. Under these circumstances the survivor takes upon himself, or herself, the entire charge of the family. Sooner or later, however, the young will mature and go forth in search of mates, while the adult must again start oa this journey. It is a well-recognized fact that single beavers are sometimes found which live apart from all others of their species. There are wan- derers which, during the summer months, are travelling about, bent on the accomplishment of the object of their lives, — impelled by a God-given power, — seeking a coni- panion in order to make a home and rear a family. Furthermore, they are strictly monogamic in their habits, and while the first partner survives none other is per- mitted to enter the family circle. It is," said the cap- tain, " for the accomplishment of this object that the mounds are erected by the lonely traveller ; and it is on these mounds that they declare to the opposite sex their desire to effect a union by depositing here a small quan- tity of castoreum, which is generated in two glandular pouches situated near the organs of reproduction, and the odor of which sufficiently differs in the sexes to be instantly recognized by these keen-scented animals at long distances. Therefore the wanderer, without regard to sex, is enabled to raise a mound, deposit thereon the lover's proclamation, which will be scented and understood of the opposite sex within a large radius, while the suitor, seeking !|j!;I OH, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 117 companionship, lingers near the ' trysting-place' until the inamorata approaches in answer to the call." If the captain is correct in the opinion which he has expressed on this subject, may we not fnd in his theory a full explanation of the fact that the castoreum, which trap- pers have lon^ been accustomed to employ as a bait on the trap to lure the poor beaver to death, depends solely on this magical power? I am aware of the fact that the mounds mentioned by Captain Ross have not been generally recognized by our backwoodsmen, but this does not materially impair the force of his statement. The captain does not claim tliat they are very numerous, but says that he has seen several such mounds in the Canadian wilderness. Immediately after the arrival of the steamer at Burk's Falls my party proceeded to ni^V^e such purchases as were thought necessary. A store of provisions was laid in sufficient to last the party eight weeks, with such addi- tions as were expected to be obtained by the use of the rod and gun. These purchases were made with very little loss of time. We now hired of the merchant from whom we pur- chased our supplies a horse and wagon to take our canoes and other luggage up the north branch of the Maganetawan River, to a point just above Sphynx Falls. This portage was made necessary by the fact that the river was filled with mill-logs up to the falls mentioned, and, consequently, could not be traversed by our canoes. It may be well to state in passing that Burk's Falls probably possesses more than ordinary attractions for business men and others 1 I? W 'i I :--,;i m \ M r 51 ■;1 +1 w ii8 r///? SPOKTSMAN'S PARADISE; \ i ' III r r.' seeking new homes in this region. It is the natural ter- minus of steamboat navigation on the Maganetawan River, and there is at this point a very great amount of water- power which may be easily made available for manufac- turing purposes. In addition to all this, the country about here is heavily timbered, and the river enables the lumber- man to bring the logs here more cheaply than they can be delivered at any other point where they would possess the same value. In other words, nature pomts to this spot as the most desirable one in this entire district for the con- version of raw material into manufactured products. It was about five o'clock when the wagon, loaded with our canoes and other luggage, was ready to start from Burk's Falls for Sphynx Shoot, which is distant from the former place about three miles. The driver of the wagon, a boy about twelve. years of age, had stood patiently by the horse watching the guides while they loaded our bag- gage. The moment this work was completed he mounted the wagon, found a seat on some of our luggage, and began to irge his horse forward. The horse was not much you.i^er than the boy, but both performed their share of the work satisfactorily, while at the start Wellington and George Ross followed the wagon closely to prevent damage being done to our luggage. The country through which this rough road passes is made up of rocky hills and low marshy ground, but at this time, owing to the fact that it was unusually dry, we were enabled to traverse it quite satisfactorily until the darkness of night began to gather about us. Mr. Mildenberger, the photographer, had started out OR, r//E LAKE L^NDS OF CAiVADA. 119 slightly In advance of the wagon, accompanied by " Ponto," in search of ruffed grouse. He had not been out ten minutes when the barking of " Ponto" was heard, and within the next five minutes lie had fired two shots. A f''^ minutes later he returned to the road with '• Ponto" at liL heels. The author wai walking some distance in advance of the wagon which was loaded with our baggage, and was therefore, at this moment, in full view of our amateur sportsman, who drew proudly from his pockets two fine birds which he had just shot, having killed them with the shot-gun., since he had not become sufficiently expert in the use of the rifle to be able to convince a ruffed grouse that he " was wanted" when the gun was fired. The photographer now sent " Ponto" once more into the woods. Soon after a loud and lively barking was heard, and our amateur sportsman was again quickly lost to our sight; had gone again into the dense woods that form the boundary on either side of the rough country road throughout the greater part of the whole distance between Burk's Falls and Pickerel Lake. The sound of his gun >vas again heard ; the dog soon after this rushed once more across our front, but quickly returned to a spot not far distant from where the last shot was fired. In a few moments the sound of another slwt resounded throughout the forest ; the photographer is already flushed with victory. Shot after shot is heard. Darkness was ap- proaching and he was soon compelled to return from the woods, because it was so dark that he could no longer see the game ; but he was not satisfied, although he had killed six beautiful birds in somewhat less than an hour. He l! T:: n I i !'! Il- tl ' ' ^|il I 20 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; complained that darkness had so soon cut short his sport. He was now compelled to walk in the centre of the road, by the side of the author. Onward they trudged while the twilight was rapidly disappearing. The rumbling sounds of the wagon were occasionally heard in our rear, while the guides were aiding our youthful driver. The stars had be- come visible, but the moon had not condescended to make her appearance. Large trees stood in close proximity to the wagon-path. Some had fallen across it. The woodman's axe had in some cases cut its way through the trunk of the fallen giant of the forest, while the hardy son of toil had rolled the obstruction to one side to allow a vehicle to pass. In other instances the fallen trunk, being somewhat smaller, had not been removed, and the driver was compelled to pass over it, or if the condition of the ground at this point was favorable, a road would be made around the obstruc- tion, while in those cases where a tree had fallen since the last vehicle had passed, the driver was left to solve the question in accordance v/ith his own judgment. Another troublesome condition arose from the frequent intersection of this road by the so-called "log roads," — roads cut for the purpose of removing the white pine mill- logs which had been recently cut in this section. These roads resembled greatly the one on which we were now travelling, and consequently, in the existing darkness, we found ourselves wandering off into these by-roads. In order to avoid as far as possible this annoyance, the photog- rapher, George Ross, and myself kept in advance, lighting OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 121 our way as well as we could with matches, moving along cautiously, with one or both hands extended before our eyes when left in total darkness. In spite of these pre- cautions we strayed frequently from the proper road off on these by-roads, often calling to each other in order to prevent too great separation. In the mean while Welling- ton remained b)' the wagon to assist our youthful driver. Nearly two nours had been spent in this toilsome man- ner when a shout from the photographer announced the glad tidings that he had found a log cabin that was in- habited. He called loudly to me ; I shouted back to him, having strayed off on a log road about one -fourth of a mile from the road leading to Pickerel Lake (the road tha<: we wished to follow), but failed to make myself heard by Mr. Mildenberger, although I heard him. He had learned at the cabin that we were just above Sphynx Shoot, or Falls, and that the river was only a few rods from the cabin and to the right of the road. The photographer was now joyful ; he rushed into the woods in search of the author, shouting at the top of his voice, " This way ! This way !" I soon succeeded in mak- ing him understand, and then shouted back to him, " Stand where you are !" He did not obey the injunction, but con- tinued to advance towards me. We were soon so near each other as to be able to speak in an ordinary voice, while at the same time we could easily understand each other. We finally met, and he conducted me back to the cabin. We found this surrounded by a few acres of newly- cleared land, the clearing extending to the inver, and even to the point above the falls that we desired to reach. ! t !lf !!f ,:!| m % i •^ :^M 122 Tff£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; The wagon, accompanied by Wellington, came up soon after our return, but George Ross could be heard plunging through the brush a few rods from the road. He, too, had, like myself, strayed off on a wood road, but had heard the photographer's shouts, and these guided his return. The fence surrounding the clearing was opened so as to allow our wagon to enter; we were bound to reacli the river to- night. The horse and wagon passed cautiously over the cleared fields, while Wellington held his p'^st on the right of the wagon, and George had taken a po.^i ^.i on the left. Our canoes and other luggage had reached the objec- tive-point and were quickly taken from the wagon. The boy driver had quietly unharnessed his horse and turned him loose to graze in the field. The chief cultivated articles now remaining ungathered in this clearing were the turnips. I asked the boy how he was to get back to Burk's Falls to-night. He replied, " I shan't try to get back there to-night. Ise going to stay with you all." The reply to the brave boy was, "That is right. We > "Ij give you something to eat, and you can make a be< the ground where we all sleep." A large pfle of logs was found which had been heaped up for burning when the ground was cleared ; but the fire had failed to consume them, consequendy it was only ne- cessary to rearrange them and apply the match. This was done ; a grand illMmination followed, the field was lighted around us, the silvery surface of the river v)as now visible ; a good supper was quickly made ready, a rubber poncho was spread on the ground and served as a table ; we ate, drank, and were happy. When the meal was finiched we spread OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 123 our blankets on the ground, and with the starry canopy above us were able to sleep soundly without canvas or any other artificial shelter. ^ The boy remained with us, enjoying well the food, but when our blankets were spread out he showed, by his manner, a disinclination to camp in the open air, and soon after said, " I think I will go to the cabin ; I have a cousin there." He immediately started off, returning a little after daylight the next morning. He breakfasted with us, harnessed his horse, and was off at an early hour for Burk's Falls. When thinking of the boy's coolness and forethought, I could not avoid comparing him with our city boys of the same age, and the only comment which I will here make is, that this youthful driver is now receiving an education that prepares him thoroughly for a life in this wild country. > ,111 - 11' It: ,v i »> ill n r i ' M . ; I? 124 TJIE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; CHAPTER VII. mv % i I -.n The Movements of our Hunting-Par :y— Crossing the Hor-ka-por-ka Port- age — Fishing in Rock Lake — Anothkr Advance — Deer-Hunting, etc. — The Journey from Trout Lake to Long Lake — Camp on Long Lake — More Deer-Hunting — An Exciting Contest, in which the Photographer Wins. h}'< it ARLY in the morning of September 30 we were up and stirring. The daylight had not yet made its appearance, but the grand fire kindled last evening was still burning brightly. There was a very heavy frost last night, but we did not suffer from the cold ; being wrapped in our blankets we slept nicely. The breakfast was prepared by our guides ; the photographer and myself had made our morning toilets while standing on a rock that projected into the river, having brought to this spot soap, towels, tooth- brushes, hair-brushes, combs, etc. This labor was per- formed in the gray dawn of the morning, and when com- pleted we repaired to die breakfast, which had been spread for us on the rubber poncho in the usual style. The packing of our luggage followed our morning meal. The canoes were placed in the water and loaded ready for the start. It had been previously decided that the photographer and myself should walk through the woods to Pickerel Lake, while the guides paddled the canoes up the river to the same point. The only diffi- ■ill OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 125 culty that we anticipated was that of following the stream through the wilderness up to the lake. It is true that we were provided with a compass, but this instrument pos- sessed little value for us here, since there was some ques- tion in regard to the direction we ought to take. The lake was thought to be distant from Sphynx Falls about five miles, and it was considered very desirable to reach it at an early hour in the day, in order that we might cross over to Mossup's Landing and make a start the same day on the crossing of the Hor-ka-por-ka Portage. The guides be- fore pushing the canoes from the shore that morning at Spliynx Falls gave us such information as they possessed, and when the good-by had been said they were off on the water, ai.d we turned into the forest. We found some ruffed grouse, but no other game during our morning tramp. We wandered about much in the wilderness, and visited the river frequently to determine whether we were travel- ling in the rig^^t direction. Thus vv-e were enabled ♦id de- termine our course, and finally reached Harvey's Bridge, near Pickerel Lake, about one o'clock p.m. Few incidents occurred during this long walk, and none of sufficient importance to be worthy of mention here. The morning was bright and beautiful, but before noon clouds had made their appearance and rain began to fall. The rain, however, did not continue for more than two hours, when the sun reappeared and filled our hearts with joy. This walk had been through the woods, including swamps and rocky hills, while our pathway was obstructed with much fallen timber. m i'.'f (1 (■1, 1 1 •li 1 ■ m- Hi m iS; 4 126 T//E SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; w: ■ [I'll I -.i li r I*' ii hi I We had expected to meet our guides at Harvey's Bridge, where they had agreed to await our arrival, should they reach that point in advance of us ; therefore their ab- sence at the time of our arrival satisfied us that we were in the advance. It was nearly an hour before they made their appearance with the luggage and canoes. We im- mediately took places in the bark canoes, and were pad- dled over to Mossup's Landing, the southern extremity of the Hor-ka-pc/-ka Portage, which connects Pickerel Lake with Rock Lake ; points which are said to be distant from each other only three miles, but I am sure that I walked more than six miles the first time that I made the tour. The portage crosses over the top of Ball Mountain, and as you approach Rock Lake you are compelled to traverse an alder swamp about one-half mile in width. This portage has been greatly improved since I crossed for the first time, in 1880. The underbrush has been cut out and some of the more troublesome obstructions overcome, or at least greatly lessened. The southern end of this portage is now passable for an ox-team with a jumper for a distance somewhat less than a mile ; consequently we had hoped to find Mossup able to give us a start on this part of our journey with his oxen. In this matter, however, we were doomed to dis- appointment, inasmuch as our friend was not provided with the necessary vehicle. The luggage, including the canoes, with which we were now burdened, it was thought would weigh about one thousand pounds, — no unimportant impe- dimenta ; and, consequently, the task of transporting all this across the portage seemed formidable to us when we OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 127 learned from Mossup that he could not render assistance with his team. The guides had firmly counted on this aid, and for this purpose sought out Mossup immediately after our arrival at this end of the portage. I did not deem it wise to hesi- tate, noi to attempt to transfer our luggage to Rock Lake without additional assistance ; and therefore immediately employed Mossup and his son to aid us in making the transit. This question having been settled, we started off with our packs, properly arranged, to travel as much of the Hor-ka-por-ka Portage as we might before nightfall. The guides selected a camping-ground about three-fourths of a mile from Mossup's Landing, and made two trips over this portion of the portage. The photographer and myself did not return with them when they made the second trip, but went in search of ruffed grouse, which were found in great abundance around Mossup's small clearing. We spent a pleasant night in camp, and were moving with the first appearance of the gray day in the morning. Having learned on the previous evening that there was another settler in the vicinity of Mossup's who would prob- ably be willing to assist us in portaging, I sent for him, and he made his appearance in camp very soon after daylight, joined us at cur breakfast, and tramped with us on the trail. Our party now consisted of seven members, and it was a pleasing sight, when standing on some high moun- tain rock, to look down on these sturdy men who were toil- ing patiently up the mountain-side. The author had started out from camp in the morning burdened with two rifles, three shot-guns, and a fishing-rod, while the photographer. '(i'f Jif S" B J B !i' W' Ml i nil .: I M! 128 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. who followed him, was carrying a much heavier load. The guides were each supposed to carry a pack weighing about one hundred pounds, and the settler, whom he had just employed, about the same amount. The settler, Emerson, who made his appearance this morning, is the largest man in the party, and he seems to possess about as much strength as an ordinary pack-mule. These backwoodsmen are generally very strong men and thoroughly accustomed to carrying heavy packs, while at the same time they are satis^ad with a moderate compensation, one dollar being the amount always demanded when meals are furnished to the laborer. The chief guide, however, does not rank as a laborer, and he is commonly paid about two dollars and fifty cents or three dollars per diem, furnishing the canoes and the necessary dogs, but his assistants are paid one dollar a day. It was now the first day of October ; the sky was clear and the sun was shining brightly, while we toiled up the side of Ball Mountain, with happy anticipations of grand sport that would amply compensate us for all this toil. In due time we reached the mountain-top, where a halt was called, that we might view the surrounding country and admire its strange beauty. The photographer here deter- mined to take a view showing our party as we appeared at this moment. This illustration is intended to show the party as they appeared when carrying their burdens on the Ho-ka-por-ka Portage ; and, consequently, young Mossup is seen stand- ing beneath the canoe, which is held in the same position as it is carried, while Emerson is supporting on his shoulders n "I n 3- n c B n \^^ 'V. m^^ ^v-^ \ > '!' ff|: ;i1 ■ ' ■;',■' ■:.!■■ [■■{ f 130 TJIB SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; a sack of flour which weighed one hundred pounds. It should now be understood that we have left civilization behind us ; that our eyes are turned towards the grand wilderness which we are about entering, and that within it we are bound to remain six or eight weeks without seeing a human habitation. The photographer has caught up this view — this grand wilderness — and fixed it on paper, that I may present it to the interested reader who has concluded to follow us in our ramble, — to camp with us in the forest. The author and the photographer reached Rock Lake about eleven o'clock, closely followed by the guides and their assistants ; but this was only their first trip, while one- half of our luggage still remained on the top of the mountain. Consequendy, after a brief rest, Wellington, George, Emerson, and Mossup, Sr., returned to bring up the balance. I retained young Mossup to paddle a canoe for me while I fished in the lake. The trout-fishing was grand, and I caught a fine lot of these beauties, while the photographer was taking a view of this lake and the guides and their assistants were bring- ing down the balance of our iuggage. We dined about two o'clock, on lake-trout, just taken from the water. After dinner, Emerson, Mossup, and son returned to their homes, while our party proceeded to cross Rock Lake, which is connected by a half-mile portage with Mud Lake. We reached the latter lake about four o'clock, bui much of our luggage remained behind on Rock LF^ke and must be brought over this half-mile portage before we can proceed farther on our journey. We succeeded in crossing Mud Lake, and camped on OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 131 the portage between the latter and Loon Lake. Mud Lake is a small body of water, probably about half a mile in leno-th, and the portage which connects this lake with Loon Lake does not much exceed the same distance. Captain George Ross, who had parted with us at the village of Maganetawan to hunt up his dogs which had strayed away, joined us this morning, October 2, in our camp near Mud Lake, before we had breakfasted. He has brought the dogs back with him, and we can now engage in a deer-hunt whenever it is thought best. Still-hunting is impracticable until the leaves have fallen, which has not yet occurred, and consequently the dogs are required for the purpose of enabling us to orovide for the wants of our camp. We broke camp at an early hour and started off for Loon Lake, which was reached in aue time. This lake is probably a litde more than two miles in length, and is separated from Grass Lake by a narrow strip of land which does not exceed more than eight rods in width ; con- sequently the portage is traversed in a few moments. The captain brought to our camp this morning another canoe. We have with us at this dme three canoes. The luggage was promptly carried over to Loon Lake this morning, loaded into our canoes, in which we promptly embarked, and were paddled by our guides up the lake to the narrow neck of land, which has been previously men- tioned ; crossed the same, and at once started forward on the smooth water of Grass Lake. We encamped at one o'clock on the west shore of this body of water, near its northern extremity. The camp is situated in the woods, 'rti' iii 132 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 1 1 i! W only a few rods from the water's edge, tluis affording a very picturesque view of the lake and rising sun. It re- quired only a few moments to erect our tent and make the camp, and the next labor which followed was the prepara- tion of the dinner. This was disposed of and a deer-hunt promptly inaugurated by Wellington, who started into the woods with the dogs about three o'clock in the afternoon. The captain and Mildenberger watched the northern ex- tremity of the lake while George and I went to the south- ern part of the same. These points are separated by some- thing more than one mile ; nevertheless we heard distincUy the sound of Mildenberger's gun when ' ' shot the deer just as it broke from cover and before it ent the water. The author soon after this returned to camp, where he found the happiest man on the American continent (at that particular moment), an amateur sportsman, who had just won his grandest triumph, — had killed larger game than can now be found in any part of Germany. The ambitious military officer zoho has just wo7i his Jirst grand victory could 7iot be happier. The photographer in his childhood dreams had never anticipated so grand a success as a sportsman. The deer that he had just killed was not ruthlessly slaughtered in the water, but was struck by the deadly missile while still in the air, and only a few seconds after it broke cover. - It is now fashionable for our sporting papers to con- demn entirely the use of dogs in deer-hunting, not even admitting that the question is one which might properly be discussed ; thus certain harpists seek to become authorities in all these matters. I ♦u :^y ' ■Its " He shot the deer just as it broke from cover." l \ I 1 m T^ m^m'^ m II H iii^ i'i :i ::il I; 134 TIl£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; Every sportsman will cheerfi'lly admit that the taking of game ought to be restricted within certain limits. What are these limits? In order to speak intelligently on this question it is very necessary that the speaker should be familiar with the localities in which the game is found, the various methods employed for its capture, the necessities of the people inhabiting the game regions, and the condi- tion of the game at the various seasons at which it is hunted. In those localities where the game is already very scarce it may be nighly important for the sportsman and other interested parties to limit, or even entirely stop, the destruction for certain periods. Although the interests of the sportsman are commonly identical with those of the inhabitants residing in game countries, nevertheless the necessities of the latter may be such as to know no bounds. In the district of Muskoka, Canada, it is safe to assert that fifty deer are killed by the still-hunters where one is killed after having been run by dogs, either on the run-ways or in the water. The deer killed on the run-ways and in the water are usually con- sumed in the sportsman's camp, and if the price of this venison were determined by the money outlay made by this class of men while seeking the game, it would probably vary from twenty-five cents to one dollar per pound. The deer killed by the still-hunter in this region is generally consumed in the lumber camps, where it is sold for four or five cents per pound. The g«'eat body of the sportsmen entering the district of Muskoka are residents of the United States, and would not remain in this climate during the cold months of au- < ,11 OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 135 tumn and wiriLer, when still-hunting can be advantageously practised; while the venison is in better condition during September than in any other month of the year. Further- more, the music of the hounds when running deer gives an additional pleasure to the sportsman. In this section of country, were it possible to prevent the sale of venison in lumber camps, the deer, which are now very abundant, would soon become more numerous than sheep have ever been on the hills of Vermont, even though the pioneer hunters are permitted to kill deer at will, and the true sportsman allowed to continue to hound the game. It has not been my intention to discuss thoroughly the question that I raised ; this would require more time and space than I can give to the consideration of the subject ; but I desired rather to direct the reader's attention to it, hoping thereby to arouse thought on this and other kin- dred topics. We continued the deer-hunt on October 3, notwith- standing a drizzling rain, which continued to fall during the most of the day. This day there were two deer killed, although I find that nothing happened of any particular interest or worthy of notice here. The following day Wellington Ross, who had been with us almost constandy since our arrival in the district of Muskoka, took his de- parture for home. He had shared with us the pleasures of the hunt and served us faithfully as a guide. The other members of the party engaged during the forenoon in an unsuccessful deer-hunt. The afternoon was spent by the photographer and George in making negatives about the lake, while the captain went with me in search of ruffed -i; 'if <* I m 136 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; ■fli I («,. •i I- li; I'll ' l!;l W grouse, in which we were, however, unsuccessful, ruffed grouse not being as abundant here as they were about Mossup's and Rock Lake. During our stay on these lakes we discovered a beaver-house which was at this time occu- pied by a family of beavers. I spent a part of one evening with the captain watching for this interesting family, the members of which never, or at least very rarely, make their appearance in the waters about their house much before sunset. We arrived on the water in proximity to this dwelling at the proper time, but failed to see the beaver, although the captain says the acute animal saw us. The statement was based on the fact that we heard a sound which the captain recognized as the beaver's alarm-signal, which is followed by the rapid disappearance of the master of ceremonies, who neither reappears nor permits any of the members to show themselves for several hours after the alarm has been sounded. We remained here, keeping perfectly quiet for about an hour, but heard nothing more. It was after dark when we reached the camp, but we were informed on our return that a flock of wild geese had passed over it, going southward. The sight of the geese so affected George Ross that he caught up his Winchester rifle and sent several bullets after them, although the pho- tographer thinks that their flying was not in any manner inconvenienced by the shooting of our guide. The afternoon of the 5th of October was spent in making preparations for our departure on the morning of the 6th for Long Lake. We had killed more deer while in this camp than we had consumed. The captain placed >yne-half of the largest deer that we had killed in his canoe I OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. ^n and carried it to a poor widow who lived several miles from the camp. He also sent for other setders, who ap- peared and carried away all our surplus game. Conse- quendy, on the morning of the 6th, we were ready to strike our tents and move forward to new fields of sport. There had been a thunder-storm during the night prior to our departure, but the morning was clear, with a strong breeze. We broke camp about 8.20 a.m. and went to the head of Grass Lake, en route for Long Lake, reach- ing the latter point at one o'clock, having crossed three small lakes and four short portages. We dined at the foot of this lake, and after dinner paddled up to the head of the same, where we encamped. Our camp is very pleasanriy situated in a dense forest, but also quite near the lake-shore. During the afternoon the captain and myself toik a stroll about a beaver-dam at the head of the lake in search of beaver. We succeeded in finding one family here. We also trolled a portion of the time that we were absent from camp, and caught six fine lake- trout. We are now in the virgin forest, where the lumberman has not destroyed its original beauty by the removal of a single pine-tree. Here we see nature in all her wildness and enchanting beauty. Here the landscape is clothed in nature's robes of green during the spring and summer months, dotted here and there with her silvery lakes and rivers, while in autumn she adds to these charming colors her lovely golden tints. The lover of nature cannot resist the grandeur, the enchanting beauty, and overwhelming sense of his obliga- t '(ill :"1 r ,tlf \ 'i!; i 11' 138 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; III! tions to Deity, when he travels along nature's highways and views this magnificent scenery. It is a more eloquent and forcible sermon than has ever been preached from any pulpit in Christendom. It is, to me, a sincere regret that I cannot picture to the mind of the reader the beauty and grandeur of these scenes ; and likewise that I cannot convey to him the un- speakable pleasures and the gratitude which I felt while worshipping at nature's shrine in these grand forests. I sincerely wish that the whole world could enjoy these things as I enjoyed them ; but neither the author nor the photographer can present them with nature's power. Having spent the day very pleasantly, surrounded with novel scenes, we retired early to our tents for repose ; but sounds which were novel to my ears soon aroused me from my slumbers, and I listened more than half an hour to the mingled bowlings of a pack of wolves. These animals are not dangerous to mankind ; they differ widely from European wolves, and are principally troublesome in this country because of their sheep-killing proclivities. This music that we heard to-night, the howling of the wolves, was repeated every night for more than a month ; in fact, we heard it nighdy as long as we remained in this dark wilderness. These serenades were the only evidences we had of their existence, until after the snow had fallen so as to render perceptible their tracks, which were then occasion- ally discovered. The forenoon of the next day, October 7, was spent in trout-fishing, grouse-shooting, and exploring the sur- OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 139 rounding country. The captain conducted me about half a mile up the side of a steep hill, which had its base on Long Lake, to another lake situated on the top of this hill or mountain. While I recognize the fact that all mountain lakes occupy different planes or levels, some higher and others lower, stiir it seemed very unusual to climb the face of a steep hill, commencing at one lake, and find another just where you had expected to reach the hill-top. This lake was nearly round and probably some- what less than one-half mile in diameter. We saw, during our morning peregrinations, many old moose-tracks, and also many spots in the woods where these animals had browsed ; while a few of these moose indications were certainly of recent origin. The captain thought it wise to tarry in our present camp several days, to kill deer and dry the venison, in order that we might have a supply of meat while engaged in moose-hunting, independent of that which we might be able to kill during this period. We had unanimously agreed that it was inexpedient to take dogs with us on the moose chase. In this particular our experience fully confirmed the wisdom of our con- clusion. The moose cannot be driven to water by deer- hounds, or any other species of dogs with which I am familiar ; and, therefore, had we taken these animals with us, they could only have served to announce our presence to the game which we sought, without being able to render any assistance. These facts will become more apparent to the reader when he has read other portions of this book, when the story of the moose-hunt has been told % It' tirll! '1! ; \>- ' l\ y \i M iri'^ lii. nffll mi " • m m I: ,..: 140 TIf£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; from beginning to end. We are now entering on nature's grandest preserve, — we find here the " King of the Cana- dian Forest," alias moose, deer, beaver, black bear, black wolf, speckled- and lake-trout, duck, ruffed grouse, etc. Here is abundance of sport for the true sportsman. During the morning stroll we saw several beaver-houses which were occupied, and examined a large amount of their fresh work. These sights were highly interesting to me, but inasmuch as they have been so frequently de- scribed by others, I shall omit them here. It was already after twelve o'clock when we reached our camp. The guides prepared our dinner, which was speedily partaken of, and then we got off on a deer-hunt. The captain started into the woods with the dogs. George Ross and I entered a canoe, the former paddling across the lake to a point that commanded a view of a large portion of this water. We then stepped on dry land, and there patiently awaited the coming developments. We carefully scanned every visible portion ( the lake. An hour passed and still we were watching ; soon a grand splash was heard near the shore on the opposite side of the lake ; the guide caught sight of the water which was thrown high into the air, but the hi^ad of the deer was scarcely visible to him while the animal was swimming towards us. The deer, which, at first, swam directly towards us, soon changed his course and headed towards the foot of the lake. This change brought him plainly into view, A few minutes later the dog was seen running from the woods where the deer broke cover. The head and antlers of our game were visible above the waters of the lake, i:\) '.\ ■ KB BSD on, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 141 while he was swimming majestically without fear or even anxiety. We stood nearly half an hour watching the movements of this deer, since we could not safely move lest we should be discovered by the game and give him an opportunity to return to his forest home. The reader should remember that this animal took to the water from the shore nearly opposite to the point on which we were standing, that the deer swam almost directly towards us until he reached the middle of the stream, then turned downward, which gave us," in du*) time, an opportunity to come in unperceived behind him. Patiently we awaited this opportune moment. When it arrived, the canoe, which had been drawn up on the shore near us, was quietly shoved out upon the water. Ross gently stepped to the stern with his paddle in hand, steadied our little bark while I entered its bow, where I seated myself and placed my rifie at my right side. Ross carefully pushed the little craft from its moorings, placed himself on his knees in that part of the canoe which properly trimmed it, and silently plied his paddle. The little canoe moved noiselessly but rapidly forward, every stroke of the paddle bringing us nearer to the game. There was another paddle lying near my hand ; I seized it and gave a helping hand, greatly increasing the speed. Forward, forward we went ! We were unperceived, al- though within ten rods of a beautiful buck, which was swimming in the middle of the lake direcdy before us. My paddle was changed for my rifle. Nearer, still nearer we approached. The rifle was raised ; the bead was drawn, just below the base of the animal's skull. We were six \\ I t ! '% m 142 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; \a ''■ rods distant from the deer. A little puff of white smoke covered the bow of our boat; the crack of the rifle was heard, and the lifeless body of the deer floated on the water, which was slightly tinged with blood. Thus ended this chase. The carcass was towed to shore in front of our camp, and the captain met us there, having returned from the woods, where he had gone to start the dogs. The dog which followed the buck that I had just shot was also now in our camp, but the other was still absent. Nearly two hours had elapsed since tlfe buck was shot. There were now on the shore, in front of our camp, the captain, George Ross, and myself, while Mildenberger had gone back into the forest in search of ruffed grouse. Suddenly the captain sprang from the rock on which he had been seated, placed his right hand on his forehead in such a position as to shade his eyes, while he leaned slightly for- ward and gazed steadily out over the surface of the lake a few seconds without uttering a single word. This position was one that I had frequently seen him assume. I there- fore recognized the fact that he had sighted game, or was at least swayed by this thought, and now endeavored to solve the question. Thus he had stood for a few seconds, when he simply exclaimed, ''A deer in the lakef and instantly sprang forward to the canoe. I had followed him closely with rifle in hand, expecting to make the chase with him ; he quickly pushed the frail bark into the water and hastily said, " Doctor, let George go w'th me in the canoe ; it will be a hard chase ; we will drive the deer to you." A few seconds later the canoe was on the water, the captain in the bow and George Ross in the stern, each on their %f\ , w ' OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 43 knees with a paddle in their hands. The little birch-bark was rushing rapidly forward, propelled by the power of four strong, muscular arms. The sight is a grand one, and calK^d to mind the impetuous charge of a squadron of cavalry in war times. The captain is most determined and energetic when in the pursuit of game ; like the grandest charger in the squadron, he is bound to take the lead, while the others can only follow. This peculiarity of the man has been demonstrated frequently in my presence in the chase, and all his fellow- huntsmen and guides are retidy to grant him this position. I had seated myself on a rock, soon after the departure of the guides, to watch the deer, whose head was visible to me in my position, although fully a mile away. I could not, however, at so great a distance, determine whether this animal possessed antlers or not ; but the leisurely manner in which it was swimming satisfied me its pursuers were undiscovered until they had made at least three- fourths of the whole distance. The animal, when first dis- covered, was nearly opposite to our camp and within a few rods of the farther shore. The guides, in order to succeed in the accomplishment of their purpose, were com- pelled to make a considerable detour to the rear of the animal, and finally come up between it and the shore. Fortunately for us they had remained, for a considerable time, undiscovered, and the animal, in the mean time, was gradually leaving the shore while swimming down the lake. The moment, however, came when the pursuers were dis- covered, and the deer then made the most frantic efforts. J could see it spring forward with all its power ^ raising its K '\\ It I !: i 144 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE,- I*' , 1 1 'j"i m W' 1 ■i n 1 |iL f >&^«^ high in the air ivith each grand ejforty but the guides are pulling stronger than before on their paddles. They seem, when viewed from my position, to be only a few rods in the rear of the animal, but the deer is heading for the shore and seems about ready to bound into the forest. It is now evident to me that the chase can only last a few seconds. / sprang from my seat ; I recalled the fact that the guides have no gun in the boat ; I realize that if they had one they could now easily kill the animal ; they are almost on it. An instant later and the canoe is seen between the deer and the shore ; a loud shout is heard from the guides ; they wave their hats ; they are victorious, and the disappointed deer now turns and swims towards the middle of the lake. Its grandest effort has been made ; fatigue and disappointment slow down its movements. It was now an easy task for the guides to direct the animal to any point on the lake. The canoe was kept in the rear, and when it was brought forward towards the right of the deer, it would cause the animal to oblique to the left, and vice versa. In this manner they proceeded to cross the lake, bringing the doe in front of the rock on which I was seated ; but while she was still about six hundred yards away they called on me to take a shot. I demurred against their request, inasmuch as the portion of the animal now visible did not much exceed the dimensions of a pint cup. The first ball fired fell short about fifty yards, and then rico- chetted nearly across the lake. Another shot was fired with no better result, and thus I continued for several minutes, but not without making some improvement. The shots were pronounced by the guides to be accurate, so far ^s "I'l. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. H5 as the line of the target was concerned, but the balls still fell short of the mark. The photographer, who was absent in the woods when I commenced firing, now made his appearance, and seizing the Winchester rifle, began to compete with me. H-^ was able to fire two shots with the repeater while I could fire one from the breech-loading Ballard. The contest between us was now very lively, and we succeeded in persuading the guides to bring the game nearer to us, so that the animal was not more than one hundred yards from the muzzles of the rifles. The bullets now fell in very close proximity to the doe's head ; none were more than four or five inches from its centre. Six or eight shots have been fired with this degree of accuracy, when I send in one that breaks the skin over the base of the animal's skull. She dodges her head downward, but quickly brings it up again, when a shot from Mildenberger ends this trial of skill. The guides shout aloud and lustily cheer the pho- tographer, zuho proudly puts doivn his rifle and wipes the perspiration from his brow. ■\. ( , '.,.■ ■' . 1 to - 1 146 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARaDJSE; CHAPTER VIII. I'v Dryino Venison — A Grand and Beautiful Mountain Goroe— The Meetino AT THE BkaverDam— Our Photocrapiier Lost in the VVildernkss— A Lonely Nicht on Buck Lake— The Horriiile Dream— The Lost Man Found — The Unexpected Meetino with a Bull Mouse. ill r:i ! HE preparation for the moose-hunt was now commenced by cutting the flesh of the deer, which we had just killed, into strips or slices, and dry- ^ ing the same on a scaffold erected for the purpose over our camp-fire. This labor, however, did not inter- fere seriously with the continuation of deer-hunting, trout- fishing, an- bird-shooting; but, inasmuch as we have fully described these sports, we shall hereafter entirely omit, or pass very rapidly over, them, lest a too frequent repetition of that which Is very interesting may become monotonous. We remained on this lake ten days, during which period the venison was fully dried, and we had a very enjoyable time. The weather was generally very pleasant, although we had a sl'Vht snow-storm and occasional rains. The photographer took many negatives, and uinong others, a view of our camp, which appears as a frontispiece in this book. Game was found here in great abundance, and our larder was always well supplied ; in fact, there was no time during our stay on this lake when we had not plenty of venison, trout, and ruffed grouse ; nor was it found ne- 11. .. ■,;'■ ; OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. M7 cessary for us to spend more than a small portion of our time in procuring tiiese necessities ; consequently, both long and short journeys were made into the surrounding forest with no other object than spending our time pleas- antly. It should, nevertheless, be here confessed that nature frequently rewarded us for these labors, even be- yond our expectations, revealing to us at such times her grandest secrets. It was during our stay on this lake that the photographer and I started out one afternoon, taking with us bird-dogs and shot-guns, although the chief object of this trip was not to gather in partridges for food, but rather to study nature in this grand solitude. We walked together probably about one mile, chatting pleasantly in the mean time, when I separated from him for the purpose of investigating a deep and dark ravine, which I was at that moment entering. The desire to be alone, entirely alone, so far as human companionship was concerned, had taken complete possession of my soul. I therefore in- formed Mr. Mildenberger that we would separate here, and that I would rejoin him at the head of the lake. Two bird-dogs remained with me, while one accompanied the photographer ; even this companionship was noiv more than I desired. Faithful Ponto commonly afforded me much satisfaction by his persevering efforts to find game, and litde Romp often amused me by his wild antics ; but that afternoon I frequently wished that they were both back in camp. The sun was shining brighdy, but nevertheless the depth of the ravine which I had entered was so great, and the shadows of the giant trees which overhung its borders ■■r\ Cv : 148 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 1 1 'J \U ;i. 1 1 vM m . ' SO dark, that I soon found myself in a sort of twilight. This peculiar light gave a strange and weird appearance to those objects situated at the bottom of the ravine, while the autumnal frosts had touched the foliage of the trees growing from its sides, as well as those which overhung it, imparting to it many of the most beautiful colors of the rainbow, which it rivalled in beauty. Great rocks and grand boulders, frequently covered with ferns, were often seen in the bottom and on the sides of this half-lighted chasm. Grandeur and beauty were here combined. As I proceeded up thiii mountain gorge, the scenes presented were truly kaleidoscopic : the surrounding landscape pre- sented an endless variety of beautiful colors, which a mar- vellous play of light and shade blended in the formation of pictures that were frequently artistic, although at other times they were grotesque and comical. Slowly I advanced through this fairy-land, often halting, and sometimes seating myself on some convenient rock in order to study more carefully the effect of a passing cloud, or the flight of a bird which chanced to come in such a position as to throw its shadow within my view. In this manner the time passed rapidly, and my promise to meet the photographer at the head of the lake had been completely forgotten. It was not until late in the afternoon that I was stimulated, by the increasing darkness in the deep, dark mountain gorge, to quicken my pace, in order that I might be able to return to camp before nightfall. Finally, hurried forward by the thought thai I might be compelled to spend a night in the woods, where the charming scenes just described had been dispelled by the HS-555B= '■""'Yff"in7"^aa OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 149 i' SI increasing- gloom, I soon found myself at the end of the gorge and on the top of the mountain. The entire length of this deep ravine did not exceed two miles, but I had spent within it more than three hours. Ha* in "; reached the mountain-top, I was now convinced t' a 1 had an abundance of time to return to our camp by uu way of the head of the lake ; and I was prompted to start in this direction by the belief that Mr. Mildenberger .ould prob- ably remain in that vicinity until I could join him. It now remained for me to determine the direction which I must take in order to reach this objective-point. I seated my- self for a few moments, thought on the subject, and then proceeded on my journey, but had not taken a dozen steps when I caught an instantaneous glance of a fine buck not more than forty yards from me on the slope of the mountain. This animal rushed down the mountain-side with such rapidity that I was unable to get a distinct out- line of his form at any time after he had taken his first leap, although the movements of the underbrush and a shadowy figure were visible for a few seconds. Romp started promptly after the fleeing animal, and Ponto soon joined in the chase. The direction taken by these fugi- tives was towards the head of the lake, and therefore I followed after them. I had tramped, I supposed, about two miles, when I came to a cedar swamp, which I unhesi- tatingly penetrated, and soon found myself standing on the edge of a considerable brook, which I thought would enter the lake near the head of that body of water; con- sequently, I started down this stream, which I followed about two miles, when I heard a shout from the photog- ?i i'-iil 'I ! 11 ' m I50 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; t ; \ 5, rapher. I was delighted to hear his voice, but greatly surprised to find him in such a dense jungle. I had pre- viously observed that the brook which I was following had overflowed its borders, — had, evidendy, quite re- cently assumed unusual proportions, since the trees now nearly sub- {j merged were still apparently healthy. ' It is a well- known fact to backwoodsmen that trees when com- Beaver-dam and house. pletely submerged soon die. I was not, therefore, sur- prised when the photographer, whom I had approached so nearly as to now be within speaking distance, although J mmm mmm mm 3E OJ?, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. ^5» I could not yet see the objects which were immediately about him, said, " I am standing on a recently-constructed beaver-d?»n, while the beaver-house, not yet fully com- pleted, is situated very near." I finally succeeded in reaching the spot where my plio- tographer was standing, learned that he had been there two or three hours, that the bird-dogs had been in his company a considerable portion of this time, having evi- dently followed the deer which I had seen on the top of the mountain into this vicinity. Mr. Mildenberger was evidendy greatly interested in the labors of this animal, and while contemplating it had forgotten the lake. He failed to give me any information in regard to the routfe by which he had reached his present situation. It was, therefore, necessary ^o follow the brook down to the lake, which feat was successfully accomplished ; in fact, the task was not very difficult when we had succeeded in getting below the dam, where the stream once more possessed its natural boundaries, although its course led wt through a very dense growth of alders and other swamp vegetation. The lake was reached soon after sunset, and the firing of a few signal-guns brought the guides with the canoes promptly to us on the shore, where we had already built a fire for the purpose of revealing our whereabouts. There occurred on Tuesday, October lo, while we were encamped on Long Lake, one of the most exciting events of our sojourn in the forest, although it was only fortunate in its happy termination. Captain Ross and the photog- rapher started this morning into the woods, the former for the purpose of starting a deer, while the latter was 4\ I \ ' w N: ;18 k ! ' I, I i < 1! I 152 TIfE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; intent on shooting ruffed grouse. We were somewliat sur- prised when the captain reached us, about one o'clock in the afternoon, unaccompanied by Mr. Mildenberger, inas- much as the latter possessed no knowledge of woodcraft, and was therefore extremely liable to become confused and fail to reach our camp. It had also been observed that the photographer was entirely indifferent in regard to danger in this particular; and even Wellington Ross, prior to sepa- rating from us, had expressed the opinion that Mr. Milden- berger would yet be compcilled to spend one or more nights in the wilderness without the society of his comrades. The moment the captain reached camp this afternoon he inquired if the photographer had returned, and when an- swered in the negative, he expressed considerable anxiety. He said, "I left him early in the morning, and expected to find him near the spot where we had separated when I re- turned there about one hour since ; but he had taken his departure and could not be found. I then thought that probably he had grown weary of waiting for me and had retraced his steps to the lake, fired a signal for a canoe, and thus reached the camp." Immediately after dinner the guides started out in search of the lost photographer, each having arranged with the other to go in a different direction, in order to cover as much space as possible before nightfall, while they carried with them their guns, which they continued to fire at In- tervals for the purpose of attracting Mr. Mildenberger's attention and aiding him in finding the camp. The search was earnestly kept up during the whole afternoon, and only terminated with the commencing darkness of evening, OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 153 while the firing of guns was continued until nine o'clock. This firing since nightfall was stimulated by certain in- distinct sounds heard by us, which we thought to be the shouts of the lost photographer, although there was some doubt in our minds on this subject. The anxiety felt in our camp for our lost companion is very great this evening. It is greatly feared that he will attempt to travel in the woods at night. This effort might be productive of fatal results. Again, it is thought possible that fear and anxiety may possibly affect his intellect, and thus cause him to wander away from the sounds of our guns and otherwise interfere with us in our search and his safe return to camp. The reader, in order to fully com- prehend the fears and anxieties of those in camp, must remember that the lost man was a complete stranger to our country, a German, whose knowledge of a wilderness had been gained from a few acres of woodland in his boy- hood home, or possibly a small park containing trees and small streams. Furthermore, his residence in America since his arrival on these shores has been limited entirely to large cities, with no knowledge of our rural districts at the time he started on this journey. The anxiety which we felt for his safety was likewise intimately connected with the objects which we desired to accomplish by this journey into the wilderness. The author had started from his home with the determination of engaging in a grand moose-hunt be- fore he returned, and had employed the photographer that he might be able to present to his friends in the future some pleasant reminiscences of the doings of his party in the Lake Lands of Canada. The party was now just about '■ ! 111' % t :'u ■■\ ii ' i I i ! ' .1 154 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; li " (. '- 1 '■ . ' ( - 1 j : ■ 1 '• Mi' !:: ■ 1 , ' \ 1 i; i I 1 • li. i i engaging in the chief object of the expedition. It will, therefore, be observed that both sympathy and self-interest 'combined to increase our solicitude for the safety of Mr. Mildenberger. The fruitless search for the missing man during the afternoon had served to greatly increase this anxiety ; and therefore the entire conversation around our camp-fire during the evening related to a further prosecution of the search for the photographer. This subject was thoroughly discussed, and it was finally agreed that the captain should start from camp in the morning with the earliest dawn of day, and that George Ross and the author should follow as soon as it became evident to them that the captain's first effort had failed. The captain, during the discussion which occurred in the evening around the camp-fire, had ex- pressed the opinion that Mr. Mildenberger would be found in the morning at Mountain Lake. In our contemplation of the condition of the photographer, we were comforted by the thought that the weather was now clear and mild, and therefore he would be relieved from the physical suf- ferings that might otherwise attend a separation from us. We were likewise aware that lie was supplied with matches, which would enable him to build a fire, and thus render his surroundings in the woods more endurable at night than they would otherwise have been. The author spent a restless night in his tent ; his sleep was disturbed ; his companion was absent, and there was some doubt as to his safety. He awoke before it was light; awaited rather anxiously the first dawn of day, which made • its appearance about 5.45, when he called the captain and OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 155 asked him if it was not time to start on the search. The captain rubbed his eyes and replied in the affirmative. We then both arose and stepped from our respective tents into the open air. At that moment we heard the voice of Mr. Mildenberger. It was indistinct ; he evidendy was a great distance from us, but we both now felt assured that he was still glive. We recognized the voice as that of our pho- tographer. The captain quickly fired two shots, hoping that Mr. Mildenberger would hear the sound; and then he promptly started for the shore where his canoe was lying ; the little bark was shoved off on the water, and, oc- cupied by our sturdy backwoodsman, she glided away on the smooth surface of the lake with great rapidity. We listened intently to the shots fired from the captain's rifle, and also to his lusty shouts. We had expected that these sounds would elicit a reply from our lost friend, but no an- swer was heard. The captain paddled quickly across the lake ; the canoe was drawn on the shore ; the sound of his voice and the report of his rifle were heard more than half an hour after he entered che woods ; but both gradually grew less distinct, and finally were heard no more. We had expected to hear some answering shots or shouts from Mr. Mildenberger, but none have reached our ears since the early dawn. Is he wa.idering away from us ? Has he failed to hear our shots ? These were the questions asked in our camp. George has prepared our breakfast and we have attempted to supply nature's demand. We found little pleasure around our board this morning ; could not enjoy our food ; two of our members are absent, the cap- tain and Mr. Mildenberger, and when will they be with us M.,1 Hi ill T" IrtS in 156 T//E SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE.- again ? The latter query, like those so recently asked, could not now be answered. It has been more than three hours since the captain left the camp. George was busied with the labors attending the drying of the venison. The author was perched on a high rock at the lake-shore, ready to announce the first appearance of the lost. The captain's canoe was seen on the lake approaching camp ; but the distance was too great for its occupants to be discerned. This discovery was made by the author and promptly announced to the guide in the camp, who imme- diately came to the lookout. We are still unable to make out the number of persons in the canoe. Great was our suspense! Great our anx- iety to know the result of the captain's search ! After a time we were able to distinguish two voices. Gladness filled our hearts ; a joyful shout from us was answered by a similar one from the canoe. Two forms are now visible ; two paddles are driving the little bark rapidly forward ; it will soon be halted at our feet. Shout after shout was heard from our friends, and shout answered shout. Our joy was great and unrestrained. The canoe touched shore, was drawn on dry land, and a joyous handshaking fol- lowed. A breakfast was quickly prepared for the pho- tographer and captain. They were hungry, and unques- tionably greatly enjoyed the repast. Let us now return to the photographer's wanderings, and detail his joys and sufferings as he has reported them to us. The morning of the day on which he was lost, when he started out with the captain, was perfectly clear and the sun was shining brightly. He soon found himself thor- ,!:h .ii'. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 157 oughly engrossed in partridge-shooting, and had no thought of danger, or that he should wander away from camp so far that he could not readily find his way back again. He told the captain, when they separated, that he would soon return to the lake ; but, since the shooting was very good in the early part of the day, he thought very little of the promise. In fact, he did not think it necessary for him to pay any attention even to the direction in which he was journeying, and consequently he pushed heedlessly for- ward, passing lake after lake, over mountain and hill, until nearly three o'clock in the afternoon. At this hour he began to feel hungry ; halted ; dressed and broiled one of the partridges which he had killed in the morning. While thus engaged, it occurred to him that he was lost, and would probably fail to reach camp that night. These thoughts impaired his appetite and rendered him somewhat nervous. The deer-dogs, which the captain had taken with him into the woods in the morning, approached the pho- tographer soon after this lunch. He could not persuade them to remain with him ; and, inasmuch as he supposed that they were now returning to camp after their unsuc- cessful chase, he attempted to follow them ; but they were soon lost to his vision. The dogs reached camp before dark, thus succeeding better than Mr. Mildenberger. The old bird-dog, " Bummer," started with him in the morning, but he too returned to camp. It will, therefore, be observed that the photographer was entirely alone in the wilderness, — that even the dogs had most ungenerously re- fused to stay with him. When he fully realized that he was lost he walked rapidly, hoping still that he might reach some . ! I \t\n I !i B 4 158 TJfJi SrOIiTSAUN':i PARADISE: familiar point in the woods ; but evcrythinji;- was strange, — forest, lakes, mountains, and hills all refused to grant the assistance he desired. The anxiety of mind which he felt when he first discovered that he was losr had steadily increased, every hour adding to his sufferings, until he finally found himself plunged into the most intense mental agony. He now realized that he was a stranger in a strange land, — a wanderer in a wilderness so large that it was possible for him to spend several months in wander- ing without ever coming in contact with a single human being. Abo' an hour before sunset he reached a large lake, or at least one much larger than any he had seen during the day, after leaving the one on which we were encamped. This lake, he thinks, was about two miles in length and about one mile in width. He shot a duck, and then concluded to camp for the night on the shore of this lake. He saw a high cliff at a point on the shore, having a perpendicular rock wall rising more than one hundred and fifty feet above the surface of the lake, and he, deter- mined to climb up to this high point and take one more view of terra firma; then, if nothing better offered, he would spend the night there. The cliff, or promontory, which we have mentioned, possessed but one rocky, per- pendicular wall ; the other sides were steep slopes covered with heavy forest-trees, while there occasionally cropped out a rocky stratum or ledge. These slopes were chiefly covered with a heavy growth of birch and maple, although there were to be seen, near the summit, several large white-pine trees. The photographer had reached the lake- shore about one hundred rods from the southern base of OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 159 this high clift, and consequently it required only a lew min- utes' walk, when he was prepared to commence the ascent. He had walked very rapidly durin until the dawn of the morrow, we are now interested in knowing how he spent the in- tervening hours. The task has been made easy for the author, he having received a full statement from the pho- tographer, who always seemed anxious to impart to others a knowledge of his feelings and doings on this gloomy night, thus showing a willingness to place his friends in possession of a very valuable experience without their being subjected to the illi from which he suffered. He informed me that, having built the fire, gathered the wood, etc., he then walked to and fro and attempted to collect his thoughts, but could do so only very imperfectly; re- membered that he had game in his pockets, but fully realized the fact that he could not eat; was greatly fatigued, but could not sleep. Burdened with his troubles, disap- pointed and sad, he exclaimed, " What shall I do ?" The answer came to him in the twinkling of an eye. " Yell !" and yell he did ! It was these tremendous shouts that echoed through the forest, and were heard in our camp between eight and nine o'clock on the evening of the day when our photographer strayed away. These shouts were XI 1 62 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; but indistinctly heard by us ; we supposed that they were made by a human being, but there were doubts in our miuds on this point. They came to us at intervals of five or ten minutes. We fired guns in response to them, but it made no difference ; it did not change even the length of the intervals. We thought it was strange that he did not '-yell" immediately after the discharge of our guns. It was strange, but he has since explained all this by say- ing, "I did not hear your guns; I did not hear your shouts;" and consequently it still seems strange to me that we were able to hear his "yells." These facts can only be explained by some one who possesses a more thorough knowledge of acoustics and our acoustic rela- tions at that moment than your humble servant. The reader will be still further astonished when he learns that it has been definitely determined since that eventful day that Mr. Mildenberger was separated from us by no less than four English geographical miles. The photographer, having yelled till he was tired of this exer- cise, still continued to walk, walk, walk ! Although sorely fatigued, he was so much disturbed in mind that when he seated himself for a moment he could only remain in that posture for a few seconds. The hours dragged slowly on, midnight came, and he now seated himself before the blazing fire, closed his eyes and did sleep. It was the sleep of exhaustion, — a troubled slumber. In this condition he dreamed that he was a soldier once more ; that the fates of war had goiie against him. The army to which he belonged had been operating in a wild country ; had suffered a most disastrous defeat ; the soldiers had fled from the field ; had ■ jiii OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 163 entered a great wilderness, in order to effect escape, but that they were closely pursued by a savage and relentless foe. Listen ! He even now hears the shouts of the vic- tors ; they have probably picked up some stragglers from the defeated army. A few moments later and he hears a lively discharge of firearms. These sounds are followed by some desultory musket-shots, then all is c|uiet once more, Tl" photographer now fancies that the victors have com n on a considerable body of his comrades, who have attempted to defend themselves rather than surrender as prisoners of war. He now realizes the imminent dan- ger with which he is surrounded. He imagines that he is fleeing rapidly before the enemy ; and we know that he is restless and constantly moving. Behold him now ! His eyes are widely open ; he glares ivildly about him ; still he slumbers. In this disturbed sleep he sees the fnerciless savage peering from behind every forest-tree and bush upon him. He calls aloud, " What shall I do? I am already siir- rotindedy He now beholds the brutal, bloody, and fiend- ish Iroquois Indians creeping stealthily upon him ; they are in full war-paint and armed with their barbarous instni- ments of war. This is their momsfit of triumph over a poor defeated Huron ! They have risen to their feet, and noiv rush forward upon our sleeping soldier I The insti'uments of death are already uplifted ; an unearthly yell is Jicard which echoes from lake to lake ! Our photographer springs to his feet ; looks wildly about him. He is now awake ; nevertheless he hears a doleful sound : the wolves are howling to-night like so many de; .ons. He had frequently heard them howl, but never befoi^e did their voices sound so iiiiii 1 64 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; i 111 near and hatcfid. They are no longer musical to his ear, but truly demoniacal to-night. He had been seated by the fire about two hours, but in his horrible dream he had suffered the pangs of a thousand deaths. There was no more slumber for him that night. He would not even seat himself before the fire, but walked again " to and fro," endeavoring to recall the meanderings of the previous day, and to determine upon some plan by which he could return to the camp. The dawn of day finally appealed. His plan was now matured. He would endeavor to retrace his steps ; if lie could do this, then he could finally rec.ch us once more. TLf^ idea that it would become necessary for him to retrace his steps hatl not occurred to him during his wanderings of the previous day. He had moved off boldly then, ^pviting to good luck rather than any knowl- edrre of woodcraft to hx\x\si him back to us. This man, in fact, had been absolutely reckless in his wanderings since he entered the forest. He did not, apparently, realize that there was danger in straying about the wilderness without the aid of a guide who was familiar with every lake, mountain, and hill. He had never yet attempted the practice of that pre- caution which even the best guides frequently take in this grand forest, and which they learned from the Indians. I have frequently observed that my guide, the moment he started '"'om camp, commenced to break the twigs or small branches of the bushes with which he came in contact, care- fully turning the broken twig backwards towards the camp, and continued this practice until he was nearly ready to start homeward, when he would face about and return on if'' OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA, i6: this trail. This procedure is not practised after the snow lias fallen, so long as it remains capable of receiving- the impression which makes the trail. Thus we find him suf- fering from his own neglect • but we feel assured that he is fast learning to live, and we trust that he may live long to learn. Let us now return to him. He is surrounded by the gray dawn of morning ; is now ready to attempt to retrace his steps. He utters one tremendous yell, which is heard distinctly in our camp, four miles away. He now starts on his return ; the captain at the same time sets out in search of him. They met in the woods ; it was a joyous meeting; the woods resounded with their joyful shouts. We have already described the return of the lost photog- rapher to our camp, but have said nothing in regard to his personal appearance. This description is possibly unneces- sary to those who have read carefully his adventure. It is entirely natural that the reader should suppose the photographer's expression to be perfectly woe-begone, and at the same time that it should be haggard. I can assure him that even these words fail to convey any adequate idea of the poor man's personal appearance. He had certainly suffered during the last eighteen hours about as much as it is possible for any man to suffer in that brief space of time, but it had taught him a valuable lesson, one which he did not forget while we remained in Canada, and if you desire, even at this date, to hear from his own lips a sad narrative of his experience during the night that he was lost in the •wilderness, it is only necessary to ask him about that night which he spent on Buck Lake. Our party now encamped on Long Lake, spent the ,ii;j 1 66 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; time intervening between the return of the photographer anil the 15th of October, was spent, very pleasantly, in deer- hunting, partridge-shooting, trout-fishing, and the taking of negatives. On the 12th of October occurred a very un- expected and memorable event in the life of the author, — his first meeting with a large bull moose face to face. It is feared though that this incident will lack pathos for our readers, as it did not result tragically for either the man or the moose. The morning of this eventful day was spent by our party in deer-hunting and fishing. Mid-day found us, however, back in our camp. Both the captain and myself remained in cami^ itil about four o'clock, when I started out for a tram^ , utcing with me two bird-dogs and a shot-gun. The first part of this tramp was entirely un- eventful, and the meeting which I now report did not occur until about half-past five o'clock. I was at this time walking quite rapidly down a ravine rhich was bounded on either side by low hills. The dogs were running a few rods ahead of me, when I was suddenly startled by a noise in the bushes, and instantly beheld, standing before me, a large bull moose within less than six rods of the muzzle of my gun. \i m ^:i OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. CHAPTER IX. A Shot at a Bull Moose — Following the Moose Trail — Moose-calling — Breaking Camp on Long Lake — Camp on Jrail between Upper Long and Sugar-Bush Lakes— Bad Weather and Consequent Delay — Prep- aration and Start on the Reconnoissance. HIS animal was probably lying down when he dis- covered me, and the noise which attracted my attention ljT< ,/ to the spot where I saw him was "^T^i probably caused by his rising. I I^A'v must confess that I was taken some- what by surprise. I realized at 1^ / -vM^ this instant that I was ill pre- r.'-^aE^fii^-.W'<.':^'^/<, pared to meet this sort ot ^^.^^^j^^^i-^ game. The bird-dogs ap- peared still more sur- prised ; they stood where I first discovered them, — only about twenty feet from the king of the forest, but showed no disposition to move, and they were also silent as the grave. This position was firmly maintained by them until the animal had finally concluded to withdraw from us. and had actually started off, when the dogs promptly followed and gave tongue in great abundance, although I observed that they kept a very respectful distance from the fleeing beast. The first glance which I obtained of this huge [jIk iilllil ;i!iili 1 68 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; " The first glance which I obtained of this huge animal was while he was standing with his side towards me." K • animal was while he was standing with his side towards me. I dropped instantly on my knees in order that I might more readily make search for a cartridge ( harged with buckshot. I thought I had some in the pocket of my hunting-coat. I drew from my pockets all my cartridges ; placing them on the ground before me, after examr \r, on the contrary, stoutly maintained that it was possible, that this fact had been repeatedly demonstrated by other sports- H "M-J ^ I. 11^1 111 t m *'• 172 7W/? SPOUTS MAN'S PARADISE: men, and that it was only necessary to examine their records to prove its feasibility. The captain said in reply to this argument, "I don't believe very much in these statements made in books, but I shall test this question at the first opportunity." Here was the opportunity, and the captain was not slow to avail himself of it. We started off on the trail, which we followed without inti emission until about two o'clock in the afternoon. This trail was very circuitous. We started on it about a mile from our camp, followed it about eight miles, and were then within three hundred yards of our tent. This morning was cloudy ; some rain fell, though not enough to seriously embarrass us ; but the rainfall of the previous night made the trailing of the moose more difficult than it would otiierwise have been. The morning's labor has demonstrated the fact, to the entire satisfaction of the captain and all the others in our party, that a moose may be quite easily trailed without the aid of a tracking snow. It is true that some difficulty is found in those cases where the trails intersect each other, where the animals have passed principally over rocky ground which is not covered with a sufficient amount of earth-mould to receive the im- pressions, and likewise in those cases where the earth is covered so completely with a short, thick underbrush that the animal's foot does not really come in contact with the earth. The captain was very sceptical in regard to moose- calling, and I attempted to convince him by reading from Frank Forester's "Field Sports" the following: " Another, and yet more fatal, method by which man ORy THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. ^73 treacherously turns the poor brute's very pleasure into a lure to certain death, is to simulate the cry of the cow moose, which is easily done by immersing the lower end of a common cow-horn partially in the water of some pool or river, and blowifig dirou(,di it in a note very easily acquired, which perfectly resembles the lowing of the female, and which rarely or never fails to bring down the finest of the bulls from their haunts in the mountain glens, to the am- bush of" the lurking hunter, in search of their amorous mates. The Indians use for this purpose the bark of the beech or alder, or a postman's tin horn, and with this rude implement are perfect adepts in producing the sound re- quisite to call the bull to his love. The afternoon and the silence of the moonlight night are the best times for this mode of hunting, and cowardly and treacherous as it may appear, it is perhaps the most perilous and not the least exciting method of attacking tliese giant deer. For, in the first place, the bull moose may generally be heard roaring in the upland glens, responsive to the simulated call, long ere they reach the hunter's station, and the interval be- tween each successive bellow, nearer and louder, and more full of passionate fury, is necessarily a moment of the keen- est excitement. Then comes the tramp of his approaching gallop, the crash of branches torn asunder by his impet- uous charge, and at last the presence, in the full heat and heyday of his amorous rage, of the forest champion. Again when he discovers that it is a cheat, and that no cow moose is on the spot expectant of his caresses, his fury is tremendous and appalling; for, shy and timid as is this monstrous animal at every other season, during the rutting ■ .,v^.# IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 'lO /- ^ u. v.. ^ ^ m 1.0 ^KS i2i I.I 1.25 I' 12.0 JA U 1116 Pm ^ / 9: o / ¥1 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN SfREET WEbSTEt.N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 4^ ■^ n^ V \ A ^:>. ^>^- ^^^ > ft I 'A ■ 'li i li ,it l'™ I 4 . H I >' .'I v, 'i 174 TI/E SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; time he is dangerous and savage in the extreme, and will even attack a man when provoked, if he cross his path ii: his momenti, of wanton dalHance. "If he discovers then the hunter who is luring him by playing with his tenderest passions, he will charge him on the instant, fearless ; and woe betide the luckless wight whose hand trembles in the a'm, or v/hose rifle misses fire at that crisis. A bull moose seventeen or eighteen hands in height, with antlers of six feet spread, and hoof as big as an ox's, the edges of which cut like a sabre, and which he can handle as deftly as a prize-fighter, is anything but a pleasant customer at close quarters." This statement, however, failed to carry conviction (o the captain's mind, and his reply was that he had never heard this moose-calling, although he had spent much time in these forests. In answer to this statement I merely called his attention to the fact that he had only been ac- quainted with the moose ten or twelve years, since they were not previously found in thi? section of Canada ; and that, even according to his own admissions, he had never spent any time in the moose country during their rutting season. " This is all very true," replied the captain. " I shall now keep my ears open, and if I hear these bulb bellowing, then I shall be prepared to admit the truth of the statement made in the book." He had only a short time to wait, since the next move brought us fairly into the moose country, and while we were still pushing for- ward on the portage, having scarcely yet reached the Sportsman's Paradise, the loud bellovang of a bull moose was distinctly heard by our whole party. The captain OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 175 listened attentively to these sounds, and then exclaimed, " I am satisfied that there is no animal in those woods that can make such a noise but the old bull moose ; let us now listen for the voice of the cow." The packs were quickly placed on the ground, and every ear was attentively listen- ing for these sounds. It was not many minutes before the old bull's bass voice was distinctly heard bellowing to his in- amorata, and the more modest tones of the cow were soon heard in reply. The captain iijstandy said, " I am con- vinced by my own ears, and nothing less would have ever satisfied m?^." These sounds were frequently heard by us daring the ensuing month while we remained in the moose country, but we soon lost our interest in them, inasmuch as the question which had been raised, in regard to calling these animals, was now effectively settled. Our departure from the camp on Long Lake took place on the 15th of October. The leaves had mostly disap- peared from the deciduous trees in this wilderness, thus extending our vision, and affording us a better opportunity t6 " still hunt" successfully. We had awaited this condition of things with much anxiety, but a still further improve- ment would probably soon follow. A light tracking snow would now render most favorable the conditions for moose- huntinof. The falling of the leaves had admitted light into the woods, and now a slight fall of snow, three or four inches, would enable the sportsman to noiselessly follow his game under the most favorable circumstances. The most favorable condition for still-hunting commonly follows soon after a fall of snow. During the storm the game remains inactive ; but when it has ceased, the moose, deer, ■ii; iiii W i: ■:'!•', Hi m. ■■ r m .f i; hi 'i h' i'. 176 r/f£ SFOu,. ^SMAAT'S PARADISE; and other animals come out from their covers and leave their fresh imprints on the snow, where there were pre- viously no tracks or traces. Under those circumstances no time need be lost in an examination of the track for the purpose of determining whether it be new or old ; but when several days have elapsed since the fall of snow, then it remains to be determined whether the imprints are fresh before the sportsman spends much time on them. The reader will now remember that this hunt was organized especially for the purpose of hunting the moose, and, inas- much as our guides were entirely inexperienced in the art of " calling," it therefore was necessary for us to depend entirely on trailing them. The halt on Long Lake was preparatory for the work which was to follow. Having spent considerable time in these preparations, and also in awaiting the arrival of those conditions favor- able to moose-hunting, we finally broke camp about eight o'clock on the morning of October 15. We travelled in our canoes as far as the head of Long Lake. We then crossed over the portage from this lake to Beaver Pond. The distance from Long Lake to the pond is about a mile and a half. The guides were rather slow in bringing up our luggage this morning; and, therefore, for the purpose of passing the time pleasantly, I started off into the woods, taking with me Ponto and Bummer in search of partridges. I found a number of birds about two miles from the pond, and killed two with my rifle. I then made an attempt to return to the place which I had left in the early part of the day. This was a much more difficult task than I had an- ticipated ; but, after having wandered about some time, 1 OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 177 finally struck the trail which I had passed over in the morning. I was now in doubt in regard to the direction which I should here take, but started off promptly, knowing full well that I should soon recognize some familiar object. I soon found myself once more on Long Lake. It was now entirely clear to my mind what r.ust be done. It was only necessary for me to turn about and follow the trail back to Beaver Pond ; which was very easily accomplished owing to the fact that the passage of our party over the same during the day had converted it into a well-marked pathway. I soon reached this pond, but a new difficulty was now encountered. The photographer and both guides had moved forward from this spot towards the next lake, taking with them all the baggage, and inasmuch as they travelled in the canoes, the trail was lost at the water's edge only a few feet from the spot where I had been in the morning, but I did not know where I would be able to pick it up again. There was no time to be lost. Dark- ness would soon be on U3. I now determined to walk around the pond ; a somewhat difficult task, owing to the marshes or swamps that surrounded it. I was fortunate in finding the trail made by our party where it left this pond, and promptly started forward on it, being happily rewarded by coming up with my friends after a brisk walk of about twenty minutes. The trail that I was now fol- lowing I found to be remarkably clear, owing to the fact that it had been so recently made. The photographer and guides had halted on the portage, erected their tents, and were prepared to spend the night pleasantly. The deer-dogs were absent from the camp this morning la I'-'l I I I ill 178 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; \ % : %. when we moved out, and have not yet made their appear- ance. The following day was spent on the portage. The captain returned in the morning to the old camp on Long . Lake, and there found the missing dogs, which he immed- iately brought forward. George Ross commenced at an early hour to carry forward our luggage to the nekt lake. The following night found us encamped on the portage leading from Upper Long Lake to Sugar-Bush Lake. I am aware of the fact that having written much of Long Lake, it is unfortunate to be compelled to write of another lake as T Ipper Long Lake, but this condition of things seems un- avoidable, since these names are the only ones which have heretofore been applied to these bodies of water. It was eight days after our departure from the camp on Long Lake, where we had prepared our venison and made every- thing ready for the grand moose-hunt, before we really started out on the long-contemplated reconnoissance. This time was not, however, spent in complete idleness. The reader will remember that we started from Long Lake on the morning of the 1 5th of October, and that we reached our camping-ground, which is on the portage between Upper Long Lake and Sugar-Bush Lake, on the evening of the 1 6th, thus having consumed two days in travelling towards the moose country. This camp is situated about ten rods from Upper Long Lake and ?* half-mile from Sugar-Bush Lake. V/hile the guides were clearing the ground which we had selected for our tent, they discovered a considerable number of modern Indian relics. This discovery led them to look about the spot more carefully, and a few minutes' observation was sufficient to satisfy the whole party that m OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 179 this ground had been occupied as an Indian camp within a few years. The most of the large trees had then disap- peared, but since tliat time a thiclc underbrush had sprung up. Tiie captain remembered that an Indian tribe had located here about ten years previously, engaged in the manufacture of maple-sugar during a single season, and then departed for parts to him unknown. It was this fact which had given the name (Sugar-Bush) to the lake that was situated about half a mile from our camp. We dis- covered about here many old birch-bark vessels, some of which were employed by them to receive the sap as it came from the trees, and others that had evidently been used to transport it from the trees to the spot where it was evaporated, or " boiled down," as the backwoodsmen say. The weather during our stay in this camp, prior to taking our departure for the reconnoissance, was exceed- ingly changeable. One day it might rain. The next would probably give us a variety; thus, in the morning it might be cloudy, but before noon we might get rain, snow, and hail, followed by a cold night and the formation of ice. In other cases the rainfalls were accompanied with heavy thunder and followed by warm sunshine. This sort of weather was not encouraging to any party of sportsmen contemplating cutting loose from their base, leaving behind them tents and blankets, sleeping in the woods without shelter, and all this exposure and hardship merely for the love of the chase. Furthermore, the reader should at this point fully under- stand that even now we are having very fine sport. Since our arrival here we have killed many deer, have taken T^ I li: ^■Km ■ill ypr^iiii 1 80 TJI£ SPORTSMAA/'S PARADISE; many trout, and the photographer has kept our larder amply supplied with ruffed grouse. In this camp our sup- plies have been most plentiful, and I have been rather re- luctantly compelled to think that our guides have very litde anxiety to \!J forward ; but my wishes in this matter do not harmonize with theirs. I came into this wilderness for the special purpose of hunting the moose, and I am determined to accomplish this object. We find many moose-tracks in these woods ; we have spent two days in trailing, but they have thus far eluded us. I am satisfied, in my own mind, that we are scarcely yet on the border of the Sportsman's Paradise. That there is such a place I am not prepared to deny ; but the all-important question at this moment is. How shall I now reach it ? It is feared that the reader, at this moment, is ready to assert that my faith is not well founded. I must, therefore, ask him to keep silence for the time being, while I assure him that I have studied this question very care- fully since my arrival in Canada, and have still an abun- dance of faith. Let the reader carefully review with me the ground-work of my faith before he follows me on my reconnoissance, because I wish him to become an enthusiast, in order that he may enjoy this moose-hunt as I enjoyed it. Therefore I will here confide to him the fact that, prior to my departure for Canada in 1884, I had positively learned that Captain Ross and his brother, Wellington, had already killed several moose in this country. The exact numb "^ I had not yet learned. After my arrival, I ascertained from the captain that he had killed ten and his brother had killed a somewhat smaller number. I now I I ( 1 ' 1 1' OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. I8l endeavored to locate the place where these successes had occurred, and, at the same time, to fix the limit or the ex- treme range of the moose. Both the captain and Welling- ton agreed that their successful moose-hunts had taken place near the divide of the water-sheds of the Maganeta- wan and Ottawa Rivers, about twenty-five miles west of the source of the Petarwawa River. They were united in asserting that they had killed their moose within a space of less than two miles square, but they supposed that the moose ranged over a space in this forest seventy-five miles square. Wellington supposed the centre of the moose region to be near the source of the Petarwawa River, and he was inclined to urge us forward to ihat point as the most desirable spot to commence our hunt. The captain, however, opposed this suggestion on the grounds that it would be almost impossible to transport, from a point so distant, our trophies. It was also apparent to me that, inasmuch as neither of my guides had ever been in the Petarwawa country, it would probably be better to keep on the ground with which the captain was already familiar. The question which I raised in the early part of my sojourn in the woods, during this hunt, was. How shall we most advantageously locate the whereabouts of moose in the greatest abundance? The fact was recog- nized by all our party that the moose might be found scattered over a very large portion of this territory, but it was also unquestionably true that in certain districts they would be found in large numbers, I had carefully discussed, with the captain and his brother, the most prac- tical method of starting a moose-hunt, and had suggested m i: ■. : l82 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; \ !'!"■!■' Ui t: ii^ I '■"■ ' il 11 ,■1 II !: to them the plan which was finally adopted, and designated by us as a reconnoissance. This plan, as adopted, required the consideration of two very important subjects. It had been determined that the reconnoissance should include the making of a circuit of eighty or one hundred miles. The performance of this task would require about four or five days. We have already considered some of the questions pertaining to the locality of the hunt, and have finally determined that our circuit shall embrace the ground which has already been so successfully hunted over by the captain and his brother. The next important question demanding our consider- ation is, Where shall we abandon our tents and luggage? The point selected for this purpose must be such as will recommend it on account of its proximity to the ground on which the hunt is to be made, while it is likewise highly important that it should not be too far removed from some point which is accessible to an ox-team and jumper, inasmuch as the lakes and rivers will be frozen over before our hunt is ended, and thus closed against our canoes. These questions were all carefully discussed, and the captain's thorough knowledge of the country enabled him to determine for us all these highly-important points. He assured me that our tents and other luggage could be brought to a point about five miles distant from the nearest settler's cabin, and there, he thought, we could obtain the services of the ox-team and jumper. It should be re- membered, however, by our readers who are unacquainted with these grand forests, that some sort of a road must OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 183 exist in order to make the ox-team and jumper available in these cases. The captain informed us that the road which now terminated at the settler's cabin was only avail- able for this sort of travel ; and we therefore determined to move our camp from its present location forward to Camp Lake, where we would be only about five miles from Mr. Harkness's clearings, the nearest pioneer settler. This movement was fmally postponed until after the re- connoissance, for the reason that it was thought barely possible that our discovery of moose in some unexpected part of the forest might render some other base more desirable. The arrangements for this reconnoissance con- templated the maintenance of camp in our rear, where the trophies of the hunt, the photographer's instruments, and other luggage could remain safely in the care of Milden- berger, while the captain, George Ross, and myself were making our tour through this grand forest for the pur- pose of determining the exact locality where the moose were to be found in the greatest abundance. It therefore became necessary for the guides, before our start, to pre- pare the wood for Mr. Mildenberger (inasmuch as he had not yet become expert in the use of the axe) which would enable him to keep the fire burning during our absence. It vvas also thought necessary to take enough bread to serve the whole party through the entire reconnoissance. Attempts at these preparatory efforts were often made last week, but in every instance the work vvas interrupted by a storm. The weather has been very unfavorable. Storm after storm has interfered with our plans. I am now tired of and impatient with these delays. I must soon push t ; I i I ,1 i ! ,., !' I I 1 . 784 T//E SPORTSAfAN'S PARADISE: forward the reconnoissance and thus put an end to this anxiety and doubt, whether the weather becomes more favorable or not, as I can no longer endure this suspense. Deer-hunting has already become monotonous to me, and I am determined to seek in this grand forest larger game, otiier scenery, and new excitement in the chase. 1 am told by the captain that the exposure and fatigue inseparable from moose-stalking is so great as to deter many of the pioneer backwoodsmen from attempting to participate in it. He pictures for me the discomforts that may arise from a severe storm at this season of the year, when we are separated from our tents and blankets, and thus compelled to endure its merciless peltings after a long and weary day's tramp. He reminds me of the fact that when I first came into the Canadian forest, only a few years since, I was scarcely able to endure the hardships ol an ordinary deer-hunt, and then asks me, Can you nozu tramp forty miles in. a day, sleep on the frozen ground at night, and repeat this effort for several days continuously ? He likewise kindly suggested that he, accompanied by George Ross, could make this reconnoissance while I remained in the camp with th^ photographer, and thus avoided the hardships attendant on the discovery of the most favorable locality for moose-hunting. It should here be remembered by our readers that it was now, at this time, our intention to discover the whereabouts of the game which we sought, rather than to kill the same. This proposition was rejected by the author, since it did not harmonize with his wishes. He desired greater activity, new sports, and changed surroundings. on, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 185 ■ed The 23d day of October had been reached; our party was still encamped on the portage between Upper Long and Sugar-Bush Lakes ; the preceding night iiad been cold and rainy, the morning was cold and cloudy, with oc- casional gusts of wind accompanied by falls of snow and hail. This damp, cold atmosphere is productive of a chilly, disagreeable sensation which seems to permeate every part of our bodies while we stand listlessly about our camp- fire. These disagreeable sensations, coupled with autumn's grave and cheerless surroundings, ha/e caused me to think this morning of my fireside and family. The leafless trees, sombre clouds, angry gusts of wind, and the pelting storms do not commonly produce in me the most agreeable meiual condiuons, but that morning I was especially gloomy. It was therefore necessary that I should make some effort to arouse myself from this horrible condition of despondency. I could not bear the thought of remaining one day longer inactive in camp. It was therefore necessary that we should start immediately on our long-premeditated recon- noissance, and start we did, although the weather was most unpromising. The announcement to my guides that we would make ready and leave our camp as soon as possible was, I presume, owing to the unsettled state of the weather, somewhat of a surprise; however, but little preparation was now required, and before nine o'clock we took our de- parture from camp. We started off in the direction of Sugar-Bush Lake, and discovered a fresh moose-trail within three hundred yards of our tent. These imprints of the animal's feet left in the soft earth were so clear that we were entirely satisfied as to his identity, and it was equally ,14 liiii it A I ! t I 'I I i ri ',''■ 11! I I ■!! I I I w i86 77^^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; certain that this traveller had crossed at this point during' the previous night, since there were no tracks at this place during the preceding day. The tracks indicated that the animal had passed leisurely within a few rods of our tents while we were probably sleeping, and near us there were at that moment five dogs. This is the second moose which has come within close proximity to us during the night since we reached the Lower Long Lake. Having spent a few moments in the examination of this trail, we then started forward and soon reached Sugar-Bush Lake, where v^e entered our canoes, paddled across, and were soon tramping once more in the forest. Hail and rain, with fitf-il gusts of v/ind, now alternated with each other, but my body was warmed with the exercise and my spirits buoyed up in anticipation of the grand and excidng chase or which we expected so soon to enter. Sunshine was no longer neces- sary for my happiness, and the " blue devils" which made time hang so heavily on my har.ds in the morning had now been driven off. Our route this morning took us through a heavily- wooded and somewhat hilly country, although our pro- gress was not much impeded by underbrush, and this, in fact, is generally true of the great forest in which we are now journeying, except where we are so unfortunate as to enter its swamps and low ground. We have, hereto- fore, travelled through this forest in our canoes, keeping on the lakes and rivers as long as this was practicable, en- deavoring to avoid, so far as possible, long portages, but the country in which we are now about making our recon- noissance is not so well adapted to this mode of travel. C/!, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 187 The lakes are less numerous and the portages are longer ; and, furthermore, we could not, in this way, accomplish the object of this movement, since we would not be brought int contact with the evidences of the presence of moose, which are generally found only in the forest. The canoes we therefore abandoned on Sugar-Bush Lake, and we now endeavored to follow the ridges and high ground as much as possible. The captain is carrying, this morning, a tomahawk, one tin cup, one coffee- or tea- kettle, one rubber blanket, one single woollen blanket, a small quantity of dried veni. jn, bread, coffee, tea, and salt. The reader will now observe tliat we have aban- don .1 nearly all our camp luggage, that we are not even supplied with knives and forks, and possess only a single cup from which to drink our coffee, although there are three persons in the party. The captain estimates the weight of his pack at fifteen pounds, and, therefore, may be regarded as in light marching trim. He walked in front of the party, George Ross and myself following behind, sonietimes in true Indian file, while at others we fell into position oil the right and left flanks. The captain's ad- vance was at all times noiseless, while his keen and prac- tised eye penetrated into every nook and corner. He likewise listened to every sound, and instantly reconfnized the voice of every bird and beast of the forest. The long and active experience which he has had in the Canadian forests has made him an expert in all matters pertaining to woodcraft, trapping, and hunting. The morning's journey passed without the occurrence of any incident worthy of narration. At one o'cloc!: we halted oii a high W