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THE

SPORTSMAN'S Paradise;

OR,

•<

THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

B. A. WATSON, A.M., M.D.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY
DANIEL C. AND HARRY BEARD.

PHILADELPHIA :

J- B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY.
1888.

15G299

■I

m'^o^^^^/}

599

AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIHED
TO

REV. THOMAS M. KILLEEN,

A STEADFAST FRIEND, AN AGREEABLE COMrANION,
AND A TRUE SPO.'tTSMAN,

BY THE AUTHOR.

I/J>

PREFACE.

The acme of pleasure can only be attained by the
sportsman when his confrires are permitted to share with
him in the excitement of the chase. In this respect the
chase may be compared to a good dinner, which is always
most enjoyable when partaken of in the company of con-
genial spirits. A book may likewise be further compared
to a dinner, since the first chapter is commonly introduc-
tory to the better parts which come in the regular order
of the courses, while a narrative which produces no pleas-
urable excitement for the reader is like a dinner without
wine.

This mum has been prepared for the general reading
public, but it is thought by the author that it may be es-
pecially enjoyed by sportsmen and the rising generation
of boys, who frequently find more pleasure in the perusal
of books truthfully delineating the excitement of the chase
than in reading those of fiction.

The author is deeply indebted to the accomplished artist,
Dan. C. Beard, of New York, who has so greatly assisted
him m the presentation of the more interesting parts of
this narrative, and also to the publishers, J. B. Lippincott
Company, of Philadelphia, whose work speaks so well for
the printing art in America.

B. A. WATSON.

Jersey City, N. J., October 12, 1887.

vii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

RiCREATION AND ITS OHJECT.._Cl.A,SSIFICATION OK HitNTERS-ACTIVE EXER-

ci^K AN Excellent Kemeoy kor Ohesity-Si-ort at SiiELnvvn.LE, Ten-

NESSEE-WhaT OCI-RRED AT THE EVANS HoUSE-A FRIEND IN NkED IS

A Friend Indeed— Home Once More

tUM

CHAPTER II.

Three Doctors in Search ok Sport-Our Guides-The Chief, and .he

MAliNET WHICH CONTROLLED HIM-TroUT-FISHING ON SUNDAY, AND THE

Results which roi .. wed a Violation ok the Canadian Law-Ch.ek
John in Disgrace— Failure ok his Plans ao

CHAPTER III.

Grand Fishing Excursion-Watte's Creek visited by the Governor and
EscuLAPius— Their Return and Reception at Camp-Grand Deer-
Hunt, LED BY Dr. Pokorney— Chief John and his Assistants are
relieved from Duty and go to the Rear in Disgrace-Dr. Pokor-
ney AND other Assistants.

CHAPTER IV.

The Start and Incidents of the Journey-Lumbermen and their Drunken
Orgies— Travelling by the Royal Mail Stage in Muskoka— The
Party attacked by Fleas-Camp on Canoe Lake-Deer-Hunting-
GovERNOR Starts for Home-The Remainder ok the Party okk kor
New Fields-Camp on Pickerel Lake-Rain and Fish-Crossing the
Horka-Porka Portage-Camp on Rock Lake-Trout-Fishing-Camp
NEAR Loon and Grass Lakes-Camp on Sand Lake-Homeward
Bound .

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

The Start koiI a Grand Moose- and Deer-Hunt — Selection ok a Pho-

tograi'her and the clilek guide— a romantlc wedding and the
Honeymoon — Arrival at Rosseau Village — Canadian Stage Route —
Tkoprietor and Dri\er-Our Old Friend "Chris" — Our New-Made
Acquaintance— Mr. Struck, of Brooklyn

CHAPTER VI.

Our Departure from Rosseau — A Charming Morning and a Healthful
Walk — Camped near Spence— Incidents which occurred there-
Joined BY our Guides— Camped on Birch Island — Camp-Life on Ahmic
Lake — Struce starts for Home — The Balance of the Party off on
a Long Tramp — The Beaver's Trysting-Places — The Photographf.r's
Sport near Burr's Falls — Plodding through Woods after Dark —
The Youthful Driver — A:iri/al at Sphynx Shoot . . . .102

CHAPTER VII.

The Movements of our Hunting-Party — Crcssivg the Hor-ka-por-ka Port-
age — Fishing in Rock Lake — Another Advance — Deer-IIunting, etc.
— The Journey from Trout Lake to Long Lake — Camp on Long Lake —
More Deer-Hunting — An Exciting Contest, in which the Photogra-
pher Wins 124

CHAPTER VIII.

Drying Venison — A Grand and Beautiful Mountain Gorge — The Meet-
ing AT the Beaver-Dam— Our Photographer Lost in the Wilderness
— A Lonely Night on Buck Lake— The Horridle Dream — The Lost
Man Found— The Unexpected Meeting with a Bull Moose , . 146

CHAPTER IX.

A Shot at a Bult, Moose— Following the Moose-Tr/.il — Moose calling
— Breaking Camp on Loi g Lake — Camp on Trail hetween Upper
Long and Sugar-Bush Lakes — Bad Weather and Consequent Delay
— Preparation and Start on the Reconnoissance 167

FAGB

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

PAGS

The First Dinner— Killed a Dekr— Following a Moose-Trail— Camped

ON THE Trail— Preparation for spendincj the Night— 0>tr Lean-to

-A Snow-Storm— Long, Dreary Tramp— Discovery of a Moose- Yard

—A Highly-Exciting Chase— Killed two Red Deer— A Disgusted

AND Angry Captain— Honest Toil brings Refreshing Sleep— The

Hunt resumed . . „
" 189

102

CHAPTER XI.

The Discovery of Moose-The Killing of two Moof;E and the Wound- '
ing of Another-Our Camp on Moose Hill-The Return to Sugar-
Bush Lake— A Severe Rain-Storm- Return to Moose Hill-The >
Deaj Moose Photographed— Another Expedition— The Bear— A :

Snow-Storm— A Hard Tramp .

210

124

CHAPTER XII.

The Bear which was not killed-Following the Moose— The Captain

KILLED THE BULL MoOSE— PACKING OUT OF THE WOOUS— ThE ReST AT

HvRKNEss's Shack— A Hard Tramp— Burk's Falls-A Dekr-Hunt- .
Another Trip to Canada in the Company of my Son, a Lad op
Fifteen-Teaching the Boy to Shoot-Killed his First Deer-
An Exciting Chase— The Old Doe makes her Escape .... 235

146

CHAPTER XIII.

The Continuance of the Deer-Hunt-An Exciting Chase-Brilliant
Mak.kuvring up an Old BccK-r.REAKiNG Camp on the I-.and-A
Partridge-Hunt by the Roadsidk-An Exciting Race betwben •• 1 m"
ANi. THE Old Cocker-Spaniel-Our Return to Maganetawan-The
Trip from Maganetawan to Toronto ... (

167

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

'IP

Camp on Long Lake Frontispiece.

" We immediately walked up to the office, each carrying a
double-barrelled shotgun, followed by three hunting-

DOGS" Page IS

" Say NOTHING ABOUT THE CONDITION OF OUR CLOTHING" ... "29

Swallowing fish and fish-stories "48

" He has evaded the dog, hut — " . "52

"Tuesday, the Governor and myself each shot a deer" . . "67

" It is a serious thing to get lost in the wilds of Canada" . •' 76

A wedding in the wilderness "95

" I don't believe she knows that she is wanted" ... " 108

We are ready for the journey "129

" He shot the deer just as it broke from cover" ... " 133

Beaver-dam and house "150

"The first glance which I obtained of this huge animal was

WHILE he was standing WITH HIS SIDE TOWARDS ME" . . " l68

The WOODS are full of them ........ "201

"Fire at him!" "213

The dead monarch " 217

The nearest settlement " 234

Food for the ravens left by bruin " 236

A hard tramp — homeward bound " 242

"We found them standing on the dry ground, while the doe
WAS lying at their felt and the hounds were fawning

ABOUT them" " 265

The dead doe " 267

That retriever " 285

"ronlisp

iece.

Page

((

108

129

133

■(

150

168

201

213

217

234

236

242

265

267

28s

The Sportsman's Paradise;

OR, THE

LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

CHAPTER I.

Recreation and its Objects— Classification of Hunters— Active Exercise
AN Excellent Remedy for Obesity— Sport at Shelbyville, Tenn.—
What Occurred at the Evans House— A Friend in Need is a Friend
Indeed— Home Once More.

HE prudent business man,
before making an investment
or inaugurating- any important
change in his affairs, is accus-
tomed to ask the question, Will
Is it a good investment? The same question
may be properly asked by any person prior to his de-
parture for the great forests of the Dominion of Canada.
The answer to this query must generally depend on
the physical condition of the individual and his apprecia-

it pay?

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

tion of the sports which are obtainable in these grand
forests.

Man, in all conditions of life, after prolonged and
earnest toil, requires recreation, — i.e., a refreshment of
strength and spirits ; but this cannot always be obtain-
able in the same way. The overwrought workingman,
in the full possession of physical energy, in perfect health,
and possessed of the ordinary amount of physical
strength, does not require the same sort of recreation
as the sedentary, overworked student, professional or
business man. In the former instance, a few days' rest,
with an increased amount of sleep, serves to fully restore
the temporarily depressed physical and mental vigor.

The intelligent practice of the fatigued German
workingman, who gathers his family about him and hies
away to some neighboring grove, where he spends a
peaceful and quiet holiday, thus obtaining pure air and
rest, cannot be too highly commended. The whole family
having spent a pleasant and profitable day in the open
air, commonly return to their overcrowded and badly-
ventilated apartments in the early evening; each member
of the faniily being better satisfied with himself, and what
is still better, satisfied with the others, they now partake
of their frugal meal, and retire early to their humble cots,
where they may sleep soundly, suffering neither from tJi-
somnia nor frightful dreams, but awake in the morning
completely refreshed. Consequently the Sabbath comes
to the workingman as a complete restorer, as a day of
perfect recreation.

Physical exertion commonly produces only bodily fa-

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

ly fa-

tio-ue, while the vital organs are maintained by the same
power in a healthy state, and their various functions are
performed in the best possible manner. It is therefore
apparent that the physical condition of workinirmen is
not o-enorally such as to require the active exercise which
the hunter gains by the Canadian chase, especially when
stalking his game ; but a high appreciation of the sport
may be an ample compensation for every expenditure.

It may be mentioned in this connection that various
hunting-parties seek recreation in the forest in divers
ways ; and consequently it is necessary to offer on this
point an explanation for the benefit of the uninitiated,
although no attempt will be made to give a complete
classification. The heterogeneous mass of men entering
the forest with guns and dogs are generally supposed to
be hunters, but in fact among these may be frequently
lound men whose peculiarities of mind and tastes are
more nearly allied to those of Oscar Wilde than to those
of Daniel Boone. It is therefore natural that these
game-seekers should be continually looking for a hunter's
paradise in the shape of a first-class hotel, in the midst
of a grand forest, from the porticoes of which can be shot
the great moose, the beautiful deer, and all the other
species of smaller game, while the same must be acces-
sible by an elegant steamer or grand palace-car.

This class of hunters are continually fault-finding, are
never happy, and seem to wish their companions to be
as miserable as themselves. They never enter the woods
without returning to their homes disgusted and thoroughly
dissatisfied. Another class, commonly calling themselves

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

1 1

■ W

sportsmen, frequently start from their homes heavily
laden with kegs, demijohns, and numerous boxes well
filled with bottles; and it may here be added that their
luggage conveys a correct idea of the recreation which
they may be expected to obtain when partially withdrawn
from the restrictions imposed upon them by the rules of
civilization. It will not be necessary for the accomplish-
ment of their purpose that they should traverse wide
tracts of wilderness, or be supplied with the most im-
proved guns, the best dogs, or a large amount of food,
since the free imbibition of the spirits with which they are
so abundantly supplied will assuredly give them a highly
spiritual nature, in which condition they should not be
expected to join in the chase or perform any other acts
which commonly characterize the ordinary corporeal man.
It will therefore be sufficient for their purposes that they
withdraw from our crowded thoroughfares to some quiet
nook, village, or grove, where, in cabin or tent, surrounded
by some congenial guides, — boon companions, — they suc-
ceed in whiling away a few days or weeks in a style
which has always honored the memory of Tam O'Shanter.

It is not very unusual, even among these parties, when
the effects of their deep imbibition have passed away, to
find them engaged in target-practice, and they may occa-
sionally sally forth for a few hours in search of game. It
is generally a matter of some pride with these so-called
sportsmen to be able to say that they shot, during their
sojourn in the land of game, one or more deer, and to
accomplish this purpose it is said to be not an infrequent
practice with them to send out their guides with instruc-

OR, THL LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 5

tions to purchase one of these desirable animals, which had
been previously taken in the chase by some other hunter ;
the bargain having been made, the deer is brought to the
ambitious sportsman, who then fires a charge of bur'c-shot
or a ritle-bullet into the dead carcass, and on this act his
claim to have shot or killed the much-coveted game is
based.

Having nf-w mentioned some of the characteristics of
the pseudo-sportsman, we turn, with increased pleasure, to
a consideration of the more noble character, — the true
hunter. The true hunter, in many particulars, resembles
the true soldier, and in several respects their lives are es-
sentially the same : both are inured to hardships and like-
wise exposed to dangers, while unusual fatigue, severe and
often prolonged deprivation, are their common lot. Both
are stimulated by conquest and likewise depressed by
failure. The true hunter's enthu^^iasm, like the true sol-
dier's, resembles, in some respects, the spirit which ani-
mates, und::r certain circumstances, the old war-horse and
the decrepit hunting-dog. Instances are occasionally re-
lated in which a noble charger has been compelled by ad-
verse circumstances to accept service on the farm in his old
age; but even now, when harnessed to the plough, we are
told that this noble animal is frequently so excited by the
bugle-notes sounding the cavalry charge that he rears his
head and tail, cocks his ears, and dashes away in search of
an unseen enemy, — showing that he has not yet lost his
fires of youth, and that he still desires to participate in the
bloody work of war, — to hear the boom of the cannon, the
ratding shots of the carbine, or to see the flashes of the

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

flittering sabres. The old, decrepit hunting-dog, half
blinded by age, stiffened in every limb by rheumatism,
having been compelled by infirmities to remain in the
kitchen corner for years, is aroused to a new life by the
click of a gun-lock, raises his eyes towards his master's
face, staggers to his feet, and once more expresses his love
of the chase by jumping about the hunter's limbs, lovingly
caressing his hands, and following on with the other dogs,
hunting through field and forest until his strength com-
pletely fails, then uttering a dismal howl, — proclaiming his
disappointment and rage caused by his inability to go
farther, — falls to the ground and frequently fails to reach
again the kitchen corner, but is often mercifully relieved
from further suffering by death in this last effort. The true
sportsman is possessed of a high degree of enthusiasm, —
he joins in the chase because it gives him pleasure, — ex-
citement which it produces causes him to forget, for the
time, hunger and fatigue. He therefore follows the game
from morning until night. His food is commonly plain, but
nutritious, still no one enjoys eating more than the sports-
man, since his system has been fully prepared for the food,
and it may be further added that the food is adapted for
the wants of the body. The hunter makes his bed on
smooth mother-earth, spreads his rubber blanket over the
sweet-scented balsam branches, or should his time be too
much occupied with other matters, then these branches will
be omitted, but without seriously interfering with his repose.
It is important to remember in this connection that those
who have lived a sedentary and studious life are particu-
larly prone to suffer from various forms of dyspepsia and

■•"*»»

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

likewise insomnia. // may also he boldly asserted at this
point, without entering iyito any long inquiry bearing on the
etiological or pathological conditions of these morbid states,
that the man who ivill engage in the chase zvith all the en-
thusias7n of a true sportst,i.an, and will follow the same a
feru months, will certainly find more benefit from this course
of procedure than could possibly be obtained by the most sys-
tematic restrictions in the use of food. Active exercise thus
obtained will efficiently relieve obesity and also develop the
muscular system.

In this manner it is entirely practical, and at the same
time free from danger, to reduce the weight to any desired
standard, and that, too, while the diet is wholly unrestrained,
except by the ex'^^^ncies which are inseparable from the
life of a hunter in the forest, more or less removed from
the luxuries of modern civilization. In this instance a re-
duction of weight is effected almost entirely by the active
and prolonged exercise, which, instead of being a drudgery
hard to be borne, is a noble sort of labor which gives rise to
tlie most pleasant thoughts, and at the same time gratifies
an exalted ambition.

The literary man who joins in the chase with true
sportsmen will very soon discover that hunting is both a
science and an art; and consequently this pastime supplies
him with the necessary occupation for both body and mind.
The rnodus operandi by which it is accomplished is easily
comprehended by any thoughtful person. The loss of
adipose tissue depends almost entirely, in this case, on the
exercise taken, while the increased muscular development
is due to the same agency. It will therefore be observed

T^'

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

that depriving fat patients of certain sorts of food which
are frequently considered by them as essential to their
happiness is not required by this method of treatment.

The athlete generally depends for the reduction of
weight on this system of active exercise rather than on
any restrictions of diet. Furthermore, there is no doubt
that if this simple method of treating obesity was fully
understood it would be very popular with those affected
with a tendency to an over-accumulation of fat, since |/cr-
sonal deformity would thus be avoided, and the individual
so relieved would be enabled to perform his role in life as a
worker and bread-winner with increased ease.

The science of cookery has nov/ attained to such a
degree of perfection as to promote epicurean tastes, and
likewise to lead to extensive gormandizing, especially
among the rich and those of sedentary habits. Its evil
effects become most apparent in middle life, while it can-
not be denied that in many instances it is carried forward
into old age. During childhood and early life, the age of
great physical activity, obesity is rarely seen. This fact
speaks volumes in favor of active physical exercise as an
agency for the prevention of obesity ; but it is not to be
supposed that every person overburdened with fat will
possess the required energy to exercise sufficiently to
materially diminish this undesirable burden. Many of
them will be seen waddling about our cities, even when the
temperature is below seventy degrees Fahrenheit, puffing
and blowing like a wind-broken horse while being exercised,
and when the weather becomes warmer these unfortunate
mortals are compelled to employ fans, seek rest in shady

OK, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

nooks, Imbibe ice-water and other cooling drini<s in order
to relieve, so far as possible, their present misery.

The efforts made by these very corpulent persons to
secure merely present relief forcibly remind me of the
action of an over-fattened hog on a hot July day, when it
half buries itself in the cool earth, mud, or any other
cooling substance which may be accessible to the poor
sufferer, and in which it commonly remains, uttering only
an occasional grunt, until food is again placed before it,
when it once more gorges itself. So lives our typical fat
man. So lives our over-fattened hog. Both live only to
eat, but do not eat to live. Let it be ever remembered
that physical activity is antagonistic to an excessive accu-
mulation of fat in the whole animal creation, and, conse-
quently, the ever-active weasel, fox, and many other active
animals which might be mentioned are never burdened
with obesity.

It may be boldly asserted that physical activity is the
very best prophylactic agent which has ever been employed
against obesity, and that it is also entitled to a high rank
as a curative means in the treatment of the same morbid
condition. It must be evident to every thinking person
that the time spent by our overworked sedentary students,
professional and business men at Long Branch, Newport,
Saratoga, and other fashionable resorts does not yield
them ample returns : it does not supply them with com-
plete recreation, but only idleness, — a condition of things
better calculated to do good to the overworked farmer
and mechanic. This remark is likewise applicable to the
majority of the middle-aged ladies who are found lounging

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

away their time in these places, while the younger ladies,
who dance, ride on horseback, and otherwise exercise, can-
not be placed in the same category.

There are certain conditions which are absolutely
necessary to a high degree of bodily health, and among
thetii may be mentioned, as being of the highest impor-
tance, physical exercise, pure air, the proper quantity of
wholesome food, and sufficient sleep.

Having given our attention to the subject of obesity,
■we will now turn to the consideration of some of the
affections connected with the alimentary canal and nervous
system. These diseases are specially common among
sedentary persons and those engaged in literary pursuits ;
therefore professional and business men are frequently
their victims. I am able to call to mind the case of a
lawyer who has always been very irregular in regard to
the quality and quantity of food which he has taken since
he commenced the practice of his profession, and, as might
naturally be anticipated, inasmuch as he has entirely dis-
regarded all the well-known laws of digestion for about
fifteen years, he is now paying the penalty which is required
of those who violate these natural regulations, since he
suffers severely from dyspepsia. However, it should not
be inferred that his disregard of the natural laws has been
fully and specifically expressed in the above statement,
since, in addition to what has already been said, it should
have been added that he has generally regulated his hours
for sleep by the amount of time which he has been able
to spare from study and other mental efforts ; and inasmuch
as he has never been able to keep up with these demands^

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

I I

ladies,
e, can-

olutely
among
impor-
tity of

obesity,
of the
lervous
among
ursuits ;
quently
se of a
[gard to
since
might
ly dis-
about
quired
ince he
uld not
las been
tement,
should
s hours
en able
lasmuch
^mands^

his hours for repose have been generally insufficient and
very irregular.

Let us now enter more specifically into a consideration
of his irregularities of diet, and it mny be here assumed,
for the purpose of illustrating our subject, that this busy
man has been accustomed to rise at six o'clock in the
morning, bn-akfast hurriedly on a cold potato, rush off to
business, keep himself at the boiling heat of excitement until
one P.M., when he may enter some eating-house, swallow
quickly some sauer-kraut and ice-cream, going through
about the same business performance in the afternoon as
in the morning, mriintaining about the same temperature ;
but when six o'clock p.m. is reached you may possibly find
him sitting down at a well-provided table, bolting, as
rapidly as possible, his dinner, that he may be able to
spend at least six hours after this meal in s'^'dying a case
which he is expected to try in court the following day. I
, have been informed, however, that he occasionally misses
a dinner, and that if search be made in his bedroom you
will find him there, lamenting his sad fate and complaining
loudly of a severe pain in his abdomen. The same gende-
man further disregards the rules of health by an intem-
perate use of tobacco, — chewing as well as smoking, — and
frcquendy entering the dining-room while using the weed,
which he only discards in time to begin the mastication of
food. Is it strange that this gentleman, having followed
such a life for about fifteen years, should now find
himself suffering with dyspepsia, insomnia, and hypochon-
driasis ? Is it not strange, on the contrary, that he is sdll
living? The practical question which now presents itself

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

liii

for our consideration is, How can he be benefited ? Does
he require medicine ? The ansiver to this question ihulU be
emphatically, no I He must have recreation, and having
been thus brought into a healthy state, he must then be
brought to obey the laws of nature, to live and work like a
rational man. ■;> ;

The unexplored wilderness affords the most inviting
field for the required recreation in these cases, and offers,
at the same time, the most favorable conditions for the
restoration of this class of cases, especially if the patient
can be prevailed upon to lead the life of an active, indus-
trious hunter.

In the wilderness the patient is removed from every
temptation co any sort of mental labor; he is undisturbed
by business or any other outside communications, since he"
is far from post-office or telegraph. The new order of
business, if engaged in stalking game, is tramp, tramp,
during the live-long day, while the mind is occupied with
pleasant anticipations of prospective or present sport ; the
blood courses through its vessels with unwonted vigor, the
lungs are fully and rapidly inflated with pure air, which
very seldom happens among sedentary persons, although
so important to the health of all classes ; a wholesome
appetite is engendered by this active exercise, and after
spending a delightful evening around the brightly blaj'.ig
camp-fire, where a rehearsal of the adventures of the day,
with story and song, enliven the hour, the sportsman retires
to his couch beneath his canvas tent or lean-to, where his
blankets have been spread for him by his guides on balsam
boughs which are giving forth their agreeable perfume.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

Does

mat be
having
hen be
• like a

nviting
[ offers,
for the
patient
, indus-

every
sturbed
ince he^
der of

tramp,

d with
>rt; the

or, the

On these he soon falls asleep without rocking or song, —
sleeps during the entire night, and awakens in the morning
fully refreshed and prepared for another day's toil. Thus
passes day after day with the true sportsman in the forest.

Illustrating the health-giving power of active exercise,
the author will here briefly refer to a trip which he re-
cently made to Shelbyville, Tennessee, in company with his
le(>-al friend whose case has already been mentioned ; and
here it should be also stated that this lawyer had ter-
jiiinated, on the day of his departure for the South, a
series of important trials, and was, therefore, in a highly
nervous state. This nervous excitability was very marked
in all his movements and doings during our journey.
We reached War Trace about three o'clock in the morn-
ing, rested until six a.m., when we started out with our
guns and dogs for Shelbyville, distant from the former
.place about eight miles. We had determined to spend
the day with the quail, which are very abundant in this
part of the St£,te, and to bring up in time for the evening
meal at the Evans House in Shelbyville.

It was a warm autumn day, but the excitement of
the sport kept us pretty steadily in motion. It was not,
therefore, until late in the afternoon when we becran to
think of food, rest, and shelter; and now, inasmuch as
we had made a good bag of birds, it seemed entirely
prvoper to abandon any further search for game and
take the direct route for the hotel, which was reached
about five o'clock. The moment we left the fields, en-
tered the road, and began to plod along towards our
destination, the spirit of the sportsman imn.cdiately

'ih

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE.

abandoned us, and then we realized that we were sorely
fatigued : every step was painful, the walking was miser-
able drudgery ; we walked a few rods and then halted ;
started on again ; our progress was slow, but we could
n'»t remain where we were, — we must go lorward. The
desired haven was at last reached. We immediately
walked up to the office, each carrying a double-barrelled
shot-gun, followed by three hunting-dogs, registered our
names and that of the gunner who accompanied us, asked
for our rooms, to which we were promptly conducted,
threw off some portions of our wardrobe which had been
burdensome during the greater part of the day, indulged
momentarily in a brevet-bath, dropped without further
delay on the beds with which our rooms were provided,
and within ten minutes each man in the party was sleeping
soundly, and continued to sleep for about two hours, when
we were called to the evening meal, arose from our beds
greatly refreshed, made our toilets, after which we partook
of a hearty meal and again returned to our rooms, where
we recounted some of the events of the day, then retired
in good order to our couches, where we all slept soundly
during the entire night, my legal friend forgetting for the
time being that he had ever suffered from insomnia or
anything else.

We were aroused in the morning by the loud ringing
of a bell, which, in this hotel, was used to announce the
time for rising and also the proper moment for entering
the dining-room for meals. We responded in due time
to the demand which had been made upon us by this
ringing, and corsequently we were prepared to obey the

inging
ce the
itering
e time
y this
ey the

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

second summons which informed us that breakfast was
now ready. However, owing to greater promptness on
the part of others, there were seated around the large
hotel table about twenty persons at the time we en-
tered the dining-room, who were observed to cast side-
long glances at us without speaking. Few words were
spoken during this meal by any of the guests, but our
party was closely eyed. It was not, however, until after
breakfast that the lawyer and myself learned the purport
of all this when our gunner, Alfred Goldsmith, called my
legal friend aside and informed him that the proprietor
of the hotel did not seem to be quite at ease in regard
to the nature of our business. The lawyer informed me,
after his interview with Mr. Goldsmith, that the proprietor
had been quizzing our gunner in regard to our intentions
in visiting that section of country. When informed by
the latter that we came from New York to Tennessee
for a few days' quail-shooting, the proprietor expressed,
emphatically, his doubts in regard to the accuracy of this
statem nt, and promptly informed Goldsmith that he was
not prepared to believe that the gentV men with him were
such fools as to travel so far merely to kill a few birds.
This remark was too much for Goldsmith ; he had no
answer for it. The proprietor observing his silence, in-
formed him that he had had the honor of entertaining,
within a few months, Jesse James and his party, and that
while stopping in this hotel they had occupied the same
rooms in which we were now lodged. Goldsmith was
now asked if he was familiar with the different points of
interest about Shelbyville. He answered in the negative.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

was

■'>

5s on

%■

large
2 en-

side-

■ "V
■i'i

■ ' -3'-

were

■>iiaM

It our

.^H

I after

i^BH

urport

ed my

prietor

regard

ed me,

^j^H

prietor

entions

ned by

inessee

iressed,

of this

i.^M

he was

m were

') birds.

had no

nee, in-

-taining,

,nd that

■Iw

le same

ith was

oints of

''H

legative.

The proprietor tiien mentioned many objects of local
interest, among others the hangman's tree, situated about
four miles from the hotel, and also added that there had
already been hung about a half-dozen persons from its
branches. Poor Goldsmith was now thoroughly frightened,
and therefore communicated promptly with my legal
friend, in order that any threatening misfortune might be
avoided. The lawyer and myself having learned that
there was really some anxiety manifested in regard to
our intentions, promptly determined to call to our assist-
ance John Royall, our former classmate, now living near
this hotel, and who was sufficiently acquainted with my
legal friend to b'' able to vouch for his honesty and
truthfulness. There was no time lost, inasmuch as we
proceeded immediately to the office and asked to be
directed to the drug house of John Royall & Co. The
hotel clerk gave the required information, and my legal
friend prompdy departed, determined to have all these
suspicions speedily removed, consequently I was not sur-
prised when I was requested, half an hour later, to meet
Mr. Royall in the hotel office. An introduction to the
proprietor by Mr. Royall was the next business in order.
The hotel proprietor, soon after this introduction by
Mr. Royall, took occasion to interview him privately. The
result of this interview having proved entirely satisfactory
I to our host, a new and more pleasant relation with us was
immediately inaugurated in the hotel. The proprietor and
the guests no longer regarded us with either suspicion or
anxiety. The former, however, remarked subsequently to
Mr. Royall, with whom he was very well acquainted, that

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

I 'I

it did, at first, st em very strange that gentlemen would
travel so far to shoot a few little birds ; and he had thought
it much more probable that we were in the employ of the
United States government for the purpose of hunting up
moonshiners, who at the time were making much trouble
in the Southern States.

It may now assist some of my readers if I offer a slight
explanation in regard to the cause of the excitement which
we had so unintentionally produced. It should be first
stated, in this connection, that neither the quai' nor any
other small birds are often hunted by gentlemen in that
vicinity, but it does occasionally happen that some citizen is
seen carrying a double-barrelled shot-gun for the purpose
of taking the life of a fellow-man, or with the intention of
defending himself against those enemies who are supposed
to be seeking his blood. An interesting instance of the
latter was related to us while sojourning in Shelby ville.
Our old classmate and friend not only righted matters for
us at the hotel but joined in our field sports, introduced us
to his friends, who vied with him in entertaining us, gave
us grand dinners, and paid us many other attentions, which
seems to be only a part of the true hospitality which per-
vades the South.

Like the other pleasant parts of our lives, our stay in
Shelbyville had its end ; and having spent nearly two
weeks with our new-made friends, we returned to our
homes much improved in health, my legal friend being
now able to sleep, while my own diabetic trouble had been
much improved.

The question may be properly asked, if we spent our

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA

time in the best possible manner. I am able to assert posi-
tively that our time was spent most agreeably. The field
sports were for us true recreation, but these splendid en-
tertainments must be classed with the milder forms of
dissip^don.

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

CHAPTER II.

I I

Three Doctors in Search of Sport — Our Guides— The Chief, and the Mag-
net WHICH CONTROLLED HIM— TROUT-FisHINC! ON SUNDAY, AND THE RESULTS

which followed a violation of the canadian law — chief joiin in
Disgrace — Failure of his Plans.

HE author desires to preface this narra-
tive with the statement that nearly nine
years have elapsed since these events
transpired, and, inasmuch as no notes
were taken at the time of the occur-
rences, it may be necessary for the
reader to make some allowance for want
of accuracy in some of the minor details.

Furthermore, inasmuch as my companions were exceed-
ingly modest men, who might blush even at the sight of
their printed names on these pages, we will designate the
leader of our party as Governor, a title which well becomes
the aristocratic dignity of this fine old gentleman. A fur-
ther description of the Governor, as he appeared at the
time of which we are now writing, may possess additional
interest for our readers ; and therefore we will add that,
although we have here spoken of him as an old gentleman,
it is quite doubtful if he had then attained his sixtieth
year. Nevertheless, his hair was already silvered with age,
whiie his step was slow and slightly unsteady; figure erect;
height about five feet ten inches ; possessed of a rather
broad chest, while in other respects his form approximated

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA,

the aldermanic ; complexion light ; face full well rounded,
partially covered by side-whiskers, and showing at various
points enlivening reddish tints caused by a dilation of the
capillary blood-vessels ; eyes moderately large, and of a
grayish color; while neither the nose, mouth, nor chin pos-
sessed any marked peculiarities calling for a particular
description. His manner of speech was slow and often
hesitating, occasionally expressing his wishes and views by
silenc^ rather than words. He also maintained a dignified
bearing under all circumstances, however trying the situa-
tion, and was never known, even in the backwoods, to
remove his high choker or spotless linen. He would not
even drink tea or coffee from any other vessel than pure
china, while a silver spoon, knife, and fork were absolutely
ess'^ntial to his happiness. It must already be apparent to
our reader that the Governor possessed, in a very high
degree, those important qualifications which so admirably
fitted him for the performance of the manifold duties of an
ambassador rather than those of a high general or an
adventurous leader ; consequently I am fully assured that
no surprise will be felt when I assert that a further perusal
of this chapter will establish the fact that it was in the per-
formance of his ministerial duties that he won his chief
laurels.

The other members of this famous hunting-party occu-
pied subordinate positions ; consequently no detailed de-
scription will be given of them, although we shall hereafter
speak of one as Esculapius and the other as Scribe ; while
the name by which the former is commonly known among
his friends might indicate to the uninitiated that his ancestry

W""p'li

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

were originally inhabitants of Finland. It may, however,
in this instance, be pardonable to say of Esculapius that
his personal appearance, conversation, and movements all
declare to the world that he is a sturdy member of the
medical profession, possessed of a strong belief of the
propriety of enforcing the laws of self-preservation, while
the frequency with which he discharged his gun when in
the pursuit of game was certainly sufficient to satisfy his
companions that he believed gunpowder was made to be
burned; but the effect of these shots having never been
known, it must always remain an open question whether
the game or game-seeker occupied the safer position.

It was early in the month of September when this party
took their departure from Jersey City by way of the Erie
Railroad, leaving behind them Gotham, with all its wicked,
noisome, and enchanting surroundings.

Nothing transpired worthy the attention of the Scribe
until we reached the Canadian custom-house on the north
side of the Niagara River. Here we met a fine old Irish
gentleman, — Canadian custom-house officer, — who exam-
ined our baggage, passed and properly marked the same,
and then made himself known to us as a brother-sports-
man possessing a lively interest in our prospective sports.
I cannot with this brief notice pass so lightly by this mag-
nificent specimen of the human family, with whom I had
not previously met, although since that meeting I have had
s.everal opportunities to listen to his lively stories and enjoy
his generous hospitality. I believe he is the son of a dis-
tinguished major who at some former time commanded a
Canadian fort in the vicinity of the Niagara Falls, having

'. .'^1

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

received his commission from the English government.
The major's son, the present custam-iiouse officer, stands
fully six feet and three inches without boots ; is as straight
as an arrow, well proportioned, and possessed of a military
bearing; while, in addition to all this, he is prompt and
courteous in the discharge of his official duties. Having
examined our baggage on this occasion, he entered our car,
where he remained in conversation with us nearly an hour,
until our train was ready to proceed. In this conversation
he imparted to us much practical informatipn relating to
the selection of guides, the Canadian localities in which we
would be most likely to find game, etc. In answer to our
inquiry in regard to the habits of the Indian guides, he
replied, " They are generally lazy, filthy fellows, less desir-
able as companions and servants than the native Canadian
trappers and backwoodsmen." In support of these views
here expressed he gave us a detailed statement of per-
sonal observations made while in camp with some friends
who had employed Indian guides. The old gentleman
spoke particularly of an observation made by himself in
the early morning, while the Indian guide was engaged in
cleaning the frying-pan preparatory to cooking the break-
fast for the hunters. In this instance, the weather being
warm, the wardrobe for the body was limited to a single
garment, which he now saw the " noble red man" using for
the purpose of drying and cleansing the more important
cooking utensil. In explanation of the garment, — size,
texture, etc., — he added that it was a common towel which
the hunters had brought with them for the purpose of dry-
ing the hands of the guides while engaged in cooking, etc.,

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

a refinement wholly incomprehensible to the Indian mind,
and consequently it had been employed for a very different
purpose. He also spoke of their long, unkempt hair, its
numerous inhabitants, the effects produced by shaking and
brushing "t over food and blankets, with much of the same
nature. During the narration of these somewhat impor-
tant events I had watched carefully the deepening expres-
sions on the Governor's face : dark clouds had gathered ;
I could readily read " No red man need apply ;" while even
the countenance of Esculapius was no less expressive ; but
here I read " Death to the dirty dogs ; I have no sympathy
with them." The Governor's feelings were certainly too
deep to find expression in words at this time. He had
remained entirely silent during the whole conversation.
Esculapius had spoken only a few words, merely in mono-
syllables ; he was apparendy overwhelmed with the situa-
tion. The old custom-house officer's face was now wreathed
in smiles : he had put it forcibly, had watched carefully the
effects of the narrative on these amateur sportsmen. As
our train was now ready to start, he bade us good-by,
wished us succes^i and a pleasant time in Canada, and we
were off for the woods.

We proceeded from Niagara Falls immediately to To-
ronto, remaining overnight at the Queen's Hotel. In the
mean time the Governor telegraphed to various persons in
different parts of the province of Ontario for guides, etc.
Replies having been received, it was determined to start
for Bracebridge some time during the following day, where
we would meet guides who had already been selected for
us through the efforts of the Governor.

OR, TffE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

In accordance with this decision we left Toronto in the
afternoon, travelled by rail as far as the Miiskoka wharf,
which is situated on Lake Miiskoka, and from this point by
a small steamer, which reached Bracebrid<;e about midniL^ht.
The instant tiie steamer touched its whart at this point
three guides came on board, sought out the Governor, held
a brief interview with him, caught up our luggage and
quickly passed from the boat to the shore, where they were
completely enveloped in darkness, as there were no lights
on the wharf and the steamboat was but dimly lighted. It
was, therefore, difficult for us to follow these guides to the
hotel where we had determined to spend the remainder
of the night. The darkness was so intense that even
after our eyes had become accustomed to the changed
condition due to our passage from the badly-lighted boat to
the absolutely unlighted streets of the frontier village, our
guides, though preceding us only a few paces, were still
completely invisible. It was during this trying period that
the chief ingeniously came to our assistance by uttering
from time to time shrill war-whoops, which at this moment
r'^called to the mind of the Scribe the doings and suffer-
ings of the former inhabitants of this land, — the ancient
Hurons.

Having reached the hotel, we were conducted to the
bar-room and office, which was dimly lighted with a single
kerosene lamp. This light rendered visible the forms and
faces of our guides, and consequently enabled us to form
our own ideas of the persons with whom we were expected
to associate during the next few days.

We now saw standing before us our three guides. The

'\ ?l

t I.

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

leader was a man of small stature, about thirty-five years
of age, with an erect figure and rather active in his move-
ments. This man, whose name would probably have been
written " Bottcher" had he been unfortunate enough lo be
born in Germany, we will now designate as John.

The chief guide was accompanied by a young brother,
only seventeen years old, who was to go with us. This
boy was small in figure, resembled somewhat his brother,
and will hereafter on these; pages be mentioned by the
name of Frank. The third, a man standing about six feet
without shoes, erect figure, well proportioned in every part
of the body, with a glossy black face, curly black hair, flat
nose, and projecting heels, was certainly the largest man in
our party, <ind proved a very efficient and honest guide.

We will christen this man "Jim," and let the reader be
assured that although his skin was black he was in every
other respect "white." During his stay with us we found
him at all times faithful in the discharge of his duties and
likewise strictly honorable, preferring to be discharged
from our service rather than that we should be balked in
our efforts to obtain sport. It was setded in this bar-room,
prior to our retiring to our rooms for sleep, that we should
start at an early hour the next morning for Baysville, a
little hamlet situated on the south branch of the Muskoka
River, near "Lake of Bays." This beautiful lake is sit-
uated about fourteen miles northeast of Bracebridge and
one mile from Baysville.

The chief guide had strongly recommended this lake ;
had spoken of it as the "sportsman's paradise"; and it
afterwards was made plain to our minds that he, at least,

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

ve years
is move-
ive been
gh to be

brother,

js. This
\ brother,
d by the
it six feet
ivery part
: hair, flat
;st man in
guide,
reader be
5 in every
we found
luties and
discharged
balked in
bar-room,
we should
aysville, a
Muskoka
ake is sit-

enjoyed some especial pleasures in this land, which for com-
plete happiness did not, however, require the use of either
ofun or rod.

V/e learned from our guides that we could reach our
destination either by land or water : the ':anoes could be
employed to transport us with our baggage through the
south branch of the Muskoka Pdver, but it would be more
expeditious to take a wagon at Bracebridge, place the three
canoes and other impedimenta in it, drive over the rough
wood road to Baysville, and then take passage by the river
to the lake.

The next morning found our party, with the exception
of the guides, fully prepared for the start at an early hour,
i he latter were now busy in gathering in the canoes, pro-
visions, etc. It was probably about eleven o'clock when
we left the hotel. The day was pleasant, the sun shone
brightly ; the almost continuous cries of the blue jay were
the only sounds emanating from the forest. The country
traverseu was very hilly ; large rocks were found in the
wood road ; deep ravines were spanned by stilted corduroy
bridges, which swayed from side to side as our wagon
passed over them. Furthermore, as if to add to the ex-
citement of the journey, one of the horses in the team
which had been hired for this occasion was both vicious and
balky, and seemed to enjoy kicking even better than eating.
The Governor, whose peculiarities have already been men-
tioned, seemed greatly to p; efer walking to riding this day,
a fact that may be partially explained by informing the
reader that the only seat provided in the wagon was in
close proximity to the vicious heels, which were handled

%■■■■ •

?<f«^l

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

with great dexterity. The day passed on ; many halts were
made to rest the team, and during one of these the Scribe
went a short distance into the woods, where he shot a pair
of wild pigeons and soon returned with them to the wagon.
We reached Baysviile about one hour before sunset: the
canoes were promptly placed in the water and found to be
leaking badly ; but there was now no time for repairs, for
we were anxious to reach our destination as soon as pos-
sible in order to make ready for spending tiie i<. .'•on a
point of land near where the river comes to the lake.
I have already said that the canoes were leaking badly,
but this gives the reader an entirely inadequate idea of
their true condition. They were certainly un^.L for service,
— old, broken, rotten birch structures. The guides pro-
portioned the luggage to the supposed carrying capacity
of the frail barks : guns, dogs, rods, and blankets were
placed in position, and then we were told to seat ourselves,
each in the stern and on the bottom of the canoe which
had been previously assigned to us. It should be und
stood that each gentleman in the party was provided wit.:-
a separate canoe, which was managed by an individual
guide. Frank had charge of the vessel carrying the Gov-
ernor, Jim was with Esculapius, and John paddled for the
Scribe. r ■;

Prior to taking our departure from Baysviile each gen-
tleman in the party had been provided with a dish for the
purpose of dipping out the water which found its way into
these leaky vessels. It was found, however, impossible to
keep them afloat more than a few moments at any time
even by the most energetic action on our part. The

■I

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

o-uides, therefore, kept close in to the river-bank, and when
it became apparent that a canoe would soon sink 11 was
quickly paddled to the shore, drawn upon the dry land and
the wa.er emptied out. Let the kind reader now imagine
himself seated in such a craft as I have just described,
under the same circumstances, and I think he will fully
excuse me if I say nothing about the condition of our
clothing, etc.

"Say nothing about the condition of our clothing."

During this short journey from Baysville to the lake our
sturdy friend Esculapius completely lost his patience, and
pitched a poor little water-spaniel off the canoe into the
water. This was a dog that the guides had borrowed for
us at Bracebridge, that we might at least have some canine
company while hunting partridges. The poor dog did not
have much reputation as an assistant in Hunting, but I
really think he must have possessed a great deal of dignity,
inasmuch as he never showed himself in our presence
aoain.
Esculapius was very frequently reminded of this sad

! f

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Is !i: . - Ml

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

event while we were in the woods, but his spirited reply
was that he could not allow his own life to be jeopardized
by any dog. The Governor remained silent during n".ost
of this journey, but his countenance expressed disgust, and
we do not believe he has yet sufficiently recovered to speak
patiently of these occurrences.

In due time we arrived at the designated spot where we
were to spend the night. We saw now a small clearing,
possibly about two acres of meadow-land, and in the clear-
ing there had been erected, near the lake-shore, a small
frame barn. Prior to our arrival the grass growing on this
field had been cut and gathered into this building, prepared
for its reception. The sun was still shining; an enchant-
ing view was spread out before us. Here were the clear
waters of an inland lake, probably about ten miles in
length, and varying in width from one-half to nearly three
miles, surrounded with hills which were covered with virgin
forest; while as yet there were only two or three small
clearings visible to us from the point where we had halted
for the night. The lake-shore at this point was sandy,
wood convenient, and all of the essential conditions for a
pleasant camp. The entire party, including guides, were
not slow to leave their bath-tubs, — so-called birch-bark
canoes, — and no regrets were expressed that we were once
more on land. The luggage was quickly removed and
placed in such a position as to favor drying, a process
which was still further aided by starting a fire. The tent
with which our party was provided, a fine commodious one,
was finally erected after a protest en the part of our chief
guide, who declared that it was entirely unnecessary, as we

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

could sleep so nicely on the fresh hay in the barn. The
proposition to sleep in the barn was opposed by the Scribe,
an old soldier, who expressed a decided preference for a
bed of balsam boughs beneath the clean canvas ; but the
Governor and Esculapius favored the proposition made by
John, who was supposed by them to know very well what
was best for us under these circumstances ; therefore the
tent was employed, while we remained at this point, only
as a baggage- and mess-room. The tent having been
erected and a fire built, the labor next in order was the
preparation, by the guides, of the evening meal, which
consisted of broiled ham, broiled pigeon, bread, butter, and
tea.

The labors of the day had prepared us for the full
enjoyment of this meal, which was followed by the free use
of cigars, which we had brought with us. We sat about
the camp-fire, smoking and chatting, for several hours after
the darkness had gathered in about us.

The guides, having gathered wood for the camp-fire,
and performed such other duties as were required of them
for the time being, with our consent crossed the lake in
their canoes, for the purpose of visiting a family living in
a log cabin distant from our camp about two miles. We
subsequently discovered that the principal attraction for
our guides in this cabin was its fair and rather famous
hostess, who seemed to be equally appreciated by the chief
and his colored companion, Jim. It was about nine o'clock
when the Governor, Esculapius, and the Scribe entered the
barn, spread their blankets on the hay, and sought refresh-
ment in sleep. Towards morning their slumbers were

THE SPORTSAfAN'S PARADISE;

rudely disturbed by the entrance of the guides, who were
talking and laughing joyfully, being in no manner re-
strained in their merriment by the presence of those whom
they had engaged to serve. Blankets were entirely dis-
carded by them ; they threw themselves down on the hay
without removing any portion of their wardrobes. The
Governor and his companions now discovered that the hay
on which they were r'^posing was not quite equal to a
spring-bed covered with a hair-mattress. Deep holes had
formed at various points beneath them ; they had slipped
from their blankets, on which they had intended to repose ;
their hair and clothing had become filled with hay-seed,
etc. ; and the advantages of the barn, which had been so
glowingly described to them by Chief John, were not fully
realized. The Governor never winced under these pecu-
liarly trying circumstances, a fact that has always been
regarded by the Scribe as a marvellous manifestation of
patience and fortitude on the part of one wholly unaccus-
tomed to hardships. Esculapius came to the front in the
morning smiling and happy. He evidently cared but little
for the trifling annoyance arising from hay-seed and the
irregular surface of the bed on which he had attempted to
sleep ; it had not endangered his life ; it could not be com-
pared with the danger that had threatened his life on the
preceding day, when he had so cheerfully parted company
with the little dog. The Scribe was not pleased with these
sleeping accommodations ; knew that they might be im-
proved ; but then there was some consolation in the
thought that he had suffered much less in this situation
than the Governor.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

Our arrival at the camp had taken place on Saturday
evening, and consequently our first breakfast was partaken
of on Sunday morning, while we were seated around the
camp-fire at about nine o'clock. This meal had been
prompdy prepared by our fuides as their first duty in the
morning, but the next thing in order was the pitching of
tlieir leaky canoes, — a labor that engaged their attention
about two hours.

Scarcely had this work been completed when the loud
baying of the hound — the only dog now remaining with
the party — was heard in the swamp not far distant from
our camp. This hound had been extravagantly praised
by Chief John, the owner, during our short acquaintance
wi>li hlm^ but I think every other person In the party was
inclined to look on him as a worthless animal. The chief
now shouted to us joyfully, " Hear the music ; get your
guns ; my hound is running a deer. I wish to station you
on the run-ways coming into the lake." His orders were
obeyed with alacrity ; we were stationed ; all were joyful ;
but it was soon apparent from the sounds emitted by the
hound that he was running in small circles, neither leaving
nor approaching the lake, and could not, therefore, be
chasing a deer, which never runs in this manner, but was
unquestionably running a rabbit. The chief guide called
us away from the run-ways, after having kept us there
about an hour. While standing around the camp-fire im-
mediately after our return from the run-ways, Jim said to
Chief John, " Your dog was chasing a rabbit and not a
deer." The chief replied, " I have never known him to do
so before." It was, however, subsequently admitted by the

.!t

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

li'(:h|.ii

^l;i

Mlili

III

owner that the dog had never been trained ; had never
been tried in the forest on any game ; and permit me to
say that many subsequent trials demonstrated to us his
entire worthlessness. He could not be made to run a
deer. The further doings of the day consisted in the
taking of a three-pound speckled trout and the shooting
of two wood-ducks by the Scribe. The taking of this
beautiful fish came near causing us serious trouble, in con-
sequence of its having been reported to the fish-warden,
who followed us several miles down the lake to a new
camp, where he was persuaded by the cautious, able, and
accomplished ambassador, the Governor, to compromise
the whole case, thus possibly avoiding international com-
plications. It was an undeniable fact that the fish had been
caught on Sunday, in violation of the Canadian laws. This
law makes no allowance in favor of the hungry foreign
sportsman. There was shot, by Esculapius, during the
same day a ruffed grouse, which had come into our camp
apparently for the purpose of taking a survey of camp-
luggage, etc. I am not absolutely certain that this feat
was performed by Esculapius ; the Governor may possibly
have had some hand in it, but I believe that Esculapius
claimed the honor. Sunday night was spent by the whole
party in the same manner as Saturday night. We again
attempted to sleep on the hay ; the guides again visited
their fair hostess, and returned to us at a late hour ap-
parently very happy. The next morning we were stirring
early, — had been promised by Chief John that he would
this day lead us into the sportsman's paradise. In answer
to our inquiries he said, " This promised land is situated

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

only about six miles from here, and there you will find an
abundance of deer, fowl, and trout." The Governor, who
is an expert fisherman, throws the fly most skilfully, and
at the same time with charming grace, was highly delighted
with the glowing description to which he had listened, and,
therefore, took his departure from the barn in anticipation
of rhe great pleasure just about to be realized. The
morning meal had been made ready and ample justice
done to the viands placed before us. The luggage be-
longing to the party was closely packed and stowed away
in the canoes. The chief had taken the Governor into his
canoe for the trip down the lake, Frank had charge of
Escu'apius, and Jim paddled for the Scribe. This arrange-
ment, I think, had been effected by the chief guide, vho
probably thought it necessary that he should now impress
the Governor with his own importance and skill in order
that the leader of our hunting-party might be made a firm
supporter of all his plans. This arrangement for our
journey afforded the Scribe an opportunity to question our
colored guide in regard to the best localities on the lake
for fishing and hunting. He had previously observed that
Jim was not well at ease while John was describing the
advantages for sport of the spot towards which we were
now steering our frail barks. Jim approached the subject
with, apparendy, a full appreciation of the duty which he
owed to our party and likewise to his superior, John. He
had allowed a few careless remarks to fall from his lips
while standing about our camp-fire. I now plied him with
questions, which he finally answered with frankness. He
said, in substance, " You will find no game of any sort that

Til

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

Pir':ii

yiii'i'ift:

you will be willing to shoot or hook anywhere near the
point to which he is conducting you." I then asked, *' Wiiat
object has John in deceiving us in this matter?" The reply
was given after a little hesitation, but without any marked
effort at evasion. I cannot attempt to recall Jim's words,
but they were, in effect, as follows : "John is a widower; he
lost his first wife some years ago ; he wishes to remarry,
and is courting a girl who lives with her parents in the
bush about one mile from the unoccupied shanty to which
he is now conducting you. He v/ishes to spend much of
his time in the company of this girl. He thinks you are
green, and that he can fool you into staying there while he
is courting at your expense. I would like to see you have
good sport, but you will find none there." This statement
was made with a certain degree of confidence to me, and
I quickly determined to make no use of it at present, but
to wait until it had been verified by our own experience.
Onlv a few days at most would be required for this pur-
pose.

Our canoe was now passing the mouth of Watte's
Creek. Jim remarked to me that this creek aiiorded the
best trout-fishing on the lake. " I am not a professional
guide," he said, " but am acquainted with every person living
on this lake ; have worked as a wood-chopper a great deal
about here ; all these people fish and hunt more or less, and
I have frequently fished and hunted with them." I inquired
still further about Watte's Creek as a fishing locality. Jim
said he thought there might be some ducks and pigeons in
that vicinity, likewise adding that he would like to remain
there one day with me ; thought I might kill a considerable

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

number of ducks if I could shoot them on the wing. I
preferred, however, to continue on in company with tiie
Governor and Escuiapius, thinking that I might now be
of some service to them, and was determined that neither
John nor the girl in the bush should prevent us from se-
curing some sport on the lake. In due time we reached
the lake-shore in front of the shanty in which John's inamo-
rata resided ; the canoes were soon drawn on the dry land,
and the chief proudly led us into the log structure which
contained the fair damsel whose magnetic influence over
our guide seemed to betoken nothing but disappointment
anO vexation for us. The maiden's mother was at this
moment the only occupant of the little room to wh'ch John
had conducted us. She received us kindly, invited us to
be seated, and we all complied with this invitation, includ-
ing even our guides, with the exception of our wily chief,
who left the room in search of his fair lady, whom he
unquestionably soon discovered, guided by that unerring
influence that we have already mentioned. It was now
about two o'clock; we partook of a lunch in this shanty,
the hostess contributing to it bread and milk; our party
were now refreshed and ready for new triumphs. The
Governor asked to be conducted to the fishinL; -grounds.
Frank was directed to accompany him, John having given
his brother the necessary instructions for finding the place.

The Governor has made a selection of flies for use
this afternoon from the book in which he carries a large
supply. He has likewise examined his beautiful rod,
and finally declared himself fully prepared for pleasure.
His face is wreathed in a pleasant smile, his heart is

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

beating- joyously in anticipation of cominjif events. He has
started for the famous trout stream so vividly described to
him by John as one of the tributaries of this lake. Escu-
lapius and the Scribe now hold a brief consultation with
John for the puq)ose of determining what shall be done
by the rest of the party during the afternoon. John thinks
it would be just as well to rest until morning and then take
a fresh start. This did not ;"uit the party, and it was finally
proposed that Jim should take the luggage in a canoe, go
to the unoccupied shanty, situated about a mile from this
point, and prepare the same for our occupation. Neither
the Governor nor Esculapius are yet willing to f^ "> under
canvas if it can be avoided. Jim is promptly _.. lOr the
performance of the duty assigned to him, John is to guide
Esculapius and the Scribe through the woods in search of
partridge. We have selected our shells, donned our hunt-
ing-coats, and with our guns in hand are ready to be off
at the word from John, who left us only a few moments
ago, possibly to give a parting salute to the magnet which
now controlled him. After an absence of fifteen or twenty
minutes he returned to us and declared his readiness to
lead us. We started into the woods, he leading at a very
rapid pace, while we followed as rapidly as possible. It
required only a few moments for him to distance us. We
called to him to wait ; he halted, but only permitted us to
approach within easy speaking distance before he was off
again, this time on a slow trot. We called to him once
more; this time he allowed us to approach somewhat nearer
to him, but showed much uneasiness ; was apparently just
ready to be off again when we checked these indications

ill!

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

by a united request for a rest. We now took seats on a
loLj ; were bathed in perspiration and blowing like a wind-
broken horse. We ventured to remonstrate with Iiim for
travelling so rapidly ; suggested that he had kept so far
ahead of us that had he discovered game, as he was not
provided with a gun, the birds would in all probability have
escaped before a shot could be fired. He told us that he
was a very fast traveller ; was not walking this afternoon
as rapidly as usual, but would try to moderate his pace to
suit us. We soon started again ; he travelled now faster
than before. We walked and r .1 in our efforts to keep up
to him, but found it impossible. This chase was continued
about three hours, when we halted in front of the log cabin
which he intended we should occupy during the night.
This tramp was one long to be remembered, and suffi-
ciently severe to deter any one from entering the woods
for the purpose of hunting, if he believed such exercise was
required, but we knew it to be unnecessary and inconsistent
with any success. The Governor arrived in front of the
cabin a few moments after we reached it. His face was
bathed in perspiration, almost livid with rage, and he di-
rected his eyes towards John, who had just seated himself
on a log near the cabin door. John probably felt the force
of this piercing look, as he meekly inquired, " Did you find
the stream which I described to you ?" We found the dry
bed of a mountsin stream, but I don't believe there ever
was water enough in it to cover a three-pound trout, except
dunng the early spring when the snow is melting. Our
whole party was tired, disappointed, and disgusted with the
conduct of John. The colored guide, Jim, had opened the

'.i|!'

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T//£: SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

lit

door of the cabin and found it contained a large quantity
of odoriferous, mouldering hay, which had been left be-
hind by the last occupants, who had vacated it about nine
months before our arrival. The entire cabin consisted of
a single room, which was probably about twelve feet square
and lighted by a single pane of glass. This diminutive
window could not be readily opened or removed. It was
still closed when Esculapius, who had entered the room,
quickly retired, declaring that the stench arising from the
decomposition was unendurable.

He directed that the hay should be removed, the small
window forced open ; all of which was promptly done by
Jim and Frank, while John was resting on the log, where
he had seated himself on his arrival before the cabin. Let
it suffice to say that after improving the atmospheric con-
dition of the cabin as much as practicable, the Governor
and Esculapius determined to occupy it as their sleeping-
apartment during the night, while the Scribe preferred to
remain outside, sleeping on the ground with no other pro-
tection than that afforded by the pure air and a cloudless
sky. The guides had withdrawn from us during the early
part of the evening, returning to the cabin containing
John's enchantress.

ii,

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

CHAPTER III.

^mm n

Grand Fishing Excursion — Watte's Creek visited bv the Governor and
EscuLAPius — Their Return and Reception at Camp — Grand Dker-Hunt,
LED BY Dr. Pokornev — Chief John and his Assistants are relieved from
Duty and go to the Rear in Disgrace — Dr. Pokorney and other As-
sistants. ■''■:• '."/ '"" - "]

y^.:

r>*t-

' / T was about four o'clock in the morning

,'/' when the Governor emerged from his
unsavory sleeping-apartment with a hag-
gard face and despondent heart. I had
slept soundly durmg the greater part of
the night ; was now greatly refreshed and ready
to engage with him in conversation. The Gov-
ernor, when he discovered that I was awake,
remarked, " I have never spent a more miserable
night ; the atmosphere of the cabin is stifling. I
am sick this morning. I think we had better
start for hom.e ; I have had enough of this
sort of sport." I then revep^ed to him the
fact that had been confided to me by Jim. I
spoke to him of the fine trout-fishing which
could be had in Watte's Creek. He seemed,
at first, somewhat incredulous in regard to
^i''"'*^^^^!^ ^^^ statements made to me on the previous
'"^^i^^S^^'^^ day by Jim, but finally the real motives

Bii •'

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

I I

controlling the acts of the chief guide became apparent to
him. I had suggested that the Governor and Esculapius,
with Jim and Frank, start immediately for Watte's Creek;
that I remain behind with John ; that during the absence
of my friends I would, with the assistance of John, put up
the tent, make all necessary arrangements for their com-
fort and a deer-hunt, which should follow promptly after
their return. It required considerable urging on my part
to bring this part of my programme into force, but soon
after daylight Esculapius came from the cabin ; he too
was sick, — was discouraged, but when I had explained
our present intentions, and all the facts connected with
the same, he readily consented to its adoption. In the
mean time the guides having arrived, breakfast has been
eaten, the Governor and Esculapius, with the guides, Jim
and Frank, are off for the fishing-ground. John remains
behind with me. He seems tired, is ill-natured ; declares
that neither the Governor nor Esculapius will find any
sport at Watte's Creek.

It was after considerable urging that I succeeded in
getting him to take hold with me and put up the tent ; but
this was finally accomplished, and then the balsam boughs
were arranged in true Adirondack style. The bed and
tent were all that a sportsman could wish. I once more
requested John to lead me in the woods. He was a little
slow in getting off and very slow after he had got off.
During a short ramble in the woods to-day I shot a par-
tridge and a very large porcupine. The following night I
was alone in camp, — John had gone to the same cabin
. where he had spent the last night, and was not seen again

l! ':

.. '* i

O/i, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

until the next morning. The night was passed in refresh-
ing slumber ; the weather had been delightful since we left
Brecebridge, — no rain. The following day was spent about
camp. John now admitted to me that his hound was
worthless and would not run deer. Jim had previously
informed me that there was an excellent deer-hunter living
on the lake-shore, about three miles from our camp. He
also said that this man owned an excellent deer-hound and
would be very glad to give us some sport. Soon after
John entered the camp I engaged him in a conversation
relating to our proposed deer-hunt. He was not so ill-
natured this morning as he had been during the past two
days, and said, frankly, " My dog is worthless ; we can't
hunt deer without a good dog. I know of only one about
this lake, and that is owned by an old Polander, who lives
three miles from here." I then asked, " Can you not hire
this dog a few days ?" John replied, " No ; the old doctor
is very poor, has a large family, and supports them by
hunting ; the dog is so necessary to him that he will not
allow it to go out of his sight ; but he is friendly with me,
and I think he will join us in a deer-hunt if we give him
about three dollars a day. This would secure for us the
use of the best deer-hound on this lake." I replied, " Let
us employ him immediately." This conversation occurred
while John was busied with the preparation for breakfast,
and when the meal had been eaten and the odd jobs about
the camp performed to my satisfaction I urged John to go
in search of the old deer-hunter. Dr. Pokorney, and bring
him to me. John was now perfectly willing to aid me in
arranging for a deer-hunt ; he was evidendy in better

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I' )1

sssa

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

• t

■il

spirits that morning than he had been at any time since
we left the camp near the barn. The attempt to deceive
us and bring us into quiet subjection had completely failed.
He fully realized at this moment that his original plan had
completely miscarried, and had recovered from the shock
arising from this disappointment. I walked to the lake
with John when he started out to find Dr. Pokorney.

He placed the litde bark in the water, stepped Ughdy
into it, assumed a position on his knees, — the one which
is always taken by the Indian or backwoodsman who is to
paddle the canoe, — and was off with a light heart. After
an absence of three or four hours he returned to me with
the joyful intelligence that the old deer-hunter would be
with us in our camp within a few hours. He had found
him at his cabin, busied in stopping, with wood and mud,
the holes existing between the logs, which, in the summer,
were not objectionable, but which must be carefully closed
before the approach of the cold Canadian winter. In
accordance with the promise which the deer-hunter had
made to John, he was in our camp before three o'clock in
the afternoon. The object which had prompted me to seek
this interview was immediately stated to him. He replied,
" I am entirely at your service." I then informed him that
I had two companions who were now temporarily absent,
but who, I thought, would rejoin me in the evening and be
ready to participate with us in the hunt the next day. He
said, " I learned these facts from John to-day, and I will be
here to-morrow morning at six o'clock to start the hunt."

The intelligence shown by Dr. Pokorney in this conver-
sation had greatly surprised me. John had spoken of him

ORy THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

as "a doctor," but I had only thought of him in connection
with this title as an ignorant quack, I now found myself in
the presence of a well-educated gendeman, who was also
evidently familiar with the rules governing polite society.
He conversed with me in the English language, but I soon
learned that he could also speak both German and French.
You can, therefore, well imagine my surprise : here was
a gentleman possessed of an excellent education — a pro-
fessional man — living in a cold, rocky, sterile country, with
no congenial associates, while the few other settlers on this
lake could only be classed with ignorant adventurers, some
of whom freely admitted that they left the front in order
to avoid confinement in prisons. The doctor seemed to
be about fifty years of age, was thinly clad, stooped con-
siderably, while his shoulders drooped, and there were
likewise observed other evidences of continued hardships
and scanty nourishment. He was tall and gaunt, stood,
probably, about six feet in his boots, sunken gray eyes,
heavy eyebrows, light complexion, iron -gray hair, and
heavy moustache. The mystery of the man's life is still
unknown to me. He was certainly an enthusiastic hunter,
and may he not have parted with the pleasures of civilija-
tion for the purpose of enjoying the wild pleasures of the
forest ? I cannot answer this question. We found him
there on the "Free Grant Lands," working hard to support
a large family, scarcely able to put bread in their mouths,
staggering under the heavy burden imposed on him, and
with very little hope for a better condition on earth.

The first meeting with Dr. Pokorney was a great sur-
prise to me. It is true, I had expected to meet this well-

H!|

il ■ IJ

-i ■ ^A

^^mmm

■f^l'l,,,

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

known deer-hunter, but I had not expected to meet such
a man. He remained with me in camp, I think, about two
or three hours, and then returned to the place that he
called home. The Governor and Esculapius, in accordance
with my expectations, returned to our camp this evening.
The tent is now in perfect order; the fragrant balsamic
odor which pervades it proclaims the presence of a couch
worthy to receive the body of a king. The camp-fire
burned brighdy " few feet in front of it and lighted up
everything about it. The necessary amount of wood has
been gathered in and piled near at hand, so that this beau-
tiful fire, which is the charming source of light, may be
continued all night if desired by the campers. Our camp
is situated near the lake-shore. It was about nine o'clock
when we heard the merry sound of approaching voices.
Listen one moment: Jim is singing, and that sounds like
the Governor's happy laugh. Esculapius has discovered
our camp-fire ; hear his joyful shout, " Hallo ther !"
Both John and I are on our feet, peering out on the Lke,
— it is a calm night ; it is moonlight, — we can barely make
out in the distance the two little canoes which are ap-
proaching our camp. We shout back to our friends; shout
answers shout ; and they quickly touch the shore at our
feet. Behold the beautiful sight: there lay in the bottom
of these canoes not less than forty speckled beauties, not
one of which weighed less than one pound, and many
weighed four. We greeted each other with a hearty hand-
shaking. The Governor recounted to me the same even-
ing the pleasures of this trip, and I now participated with
him in the enjoyment he had felt while catching these fish.

hmt^

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

He is an enthusiastic fisherman, but: cares little for shoot-
ing. Ecculapius seemed to be perfectly satisfied with the
part which he had taken in this little excursion ; admitted
that he had fired a great number of shots at ducks and
pigeons, but showed us no game.

The tent now presented to the Governor and Escu-
lapius an attractive appearance, and they entered it without
uttering a single demurrer. We all slept soundly under
the canvas, inhaled the pure atmosphere of the forest, and
awoke early in the morning with renewed energies and
pleasant forebodings for the day.

The deer-hunter, Dr. Pokorney, reached our camp
about six o'clock that morning; was immediately introduced
to the Governor and Esculapius. He seemed this morn-
ing to be in excellent spirits. The Governor exhibited to
him some of the speckled beauties with much apparent
satisfaction.

The guides soon announced that breakfast was ready^
and it did not take many minutes for our whole party to
arrange themselves in a semicircle on the ground around
the spot where it had been decided to place the meal. A
rubber poncho had been placed on the ground, and it was
on this small blanket that the cups containing the smoking
hot coffee and the plates laden with the fried fish and boiled
potatoes "were placed.

The whole party, including Dr. Pokorney, ate heartily,
and every one, including John, seemed well pleased. The
breakfast is ended, and the Governor, who is provided with
pipes and tobacco, brings out his entire stock. There is
now placed before our new-made friend. Dr. Pokorney,

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

Swallowing fish and fish-stories.

at least a half-dozen fresh brier-wood pipes and several
pounds of tobacco. He is invited to make a selection and
proceed to the next order of business, which is smoking.
He, being able to decide with promptness on all such mat-
ters, was soon afterwards seen in the full enjoyment of
his pipe. Esculapius had followed suit, but the Scribe was
so unfortunate as to be unable to join them in this pleasant
pastime. The Governor having supplied the wants of the
party, now drew from an inside pocket of his coat a case
containing a beautifully colored meerschaum pipe, which he
leisurely proceeded to fill, and afterwards quietly smoked.

A heavy white frost covered every bush and exposed
surfac^i of earth or rock. However, there is only a light

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

breeze, and, therefore, the lake is comparatively smooth.
It is a grand morning for a deer-hunt: the bucks are
moving in such weather at this season of the year. It
was nearly nine o'clock before our party was ready to
embark in their canoes for that portion of the lake where
it had been decided that the deer-hunt should take place.
The locality of the hunt had been chosen by Dr. Pokor-
ney, although some suggestions had been made by John.
These suggestions had been entirely ignored by the old
deer-hunter, who did not seem to think them worthy of
his consideration. He, however, did inform us that the
Iccality was chosen with due regard to the wind and other
factors involved in the practical solution of the question.
When we started from the shore in front of oir camp
Dr. Pokorney was in his own canoe, accompanied by his
deer-hound ; the Governor followed in a canoe with John ;
Esculapius was accompanied by Jim, while Frank was
paddling for me. These old, leaky canoes, which I have
previously described, have been somewhat improved, it is
true, by the pitch that has been employed to stop the
leaks, but we are still compelled to use, very frequently,
the dishes to keep the water to a point consistent with our
own safety, while we are still obliged to sit in a cold-water
bath. I have observed that Dr. Pokorney's birch-bark
canoe is nearly new and does not leak, while by a graceful
and apparently easy use of the paddle it shoots over the
water with great rapidity. The comparison of the old
hunter's canoe with those which John has supplied for our
use is not well calculated to make us feel contented while
quietly seated in cold water. Let us, however, dismiss

^ .,t

; ('!','

\ \ 'li

t I'

TJIE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE:

from our minds, for the present, these unpleasant thoughts,
and again resume the details of the deer-hunt. Dr. Po-
korney took the lead in his canoe at the start, and paddled
away from the camp about three miles, having kept in
advance all this time before he stationed the Governor at
a run-way where it came to the lake. The point which
the Governor was to watch having been selected by the
deer-hunter, John immediately brought his canoe to the
shore, when both parties occupying it stepped to the dry
land, while the guide promptly removed the water which
it contained. Dr. Pokorney beckoned to the occupants
of the other canoes to follow him, which they continued to
do. He now proceeded on about one-half mile farther,
where he stationed the Scribe and Frank, and about one
mile from them he placed Esculapius with the colored
guide. Our whole party were now stationed, and every-
thing was in readiness to start the hound which was ex-
pected to drive the deer into the lake. This animal had
remained in the canoe with its master since we left our
camp in the morning, and as soon as our party were
properly stationed the old deer-hunter paddled back near
to the spot where he had left the Scribe, in full view of
whom he drew his bark canoe on the shore. The doff
immediately leaped from the frail bark and began to run
playfully around his master's feet, looking anxiously up to
his face. Dr. Pokorney spoke kindly to the animal, petted
her a moment, and then bade her to bring a deer. She
started immediately, ran off a few rods and then halted,
as if to receive further instructions, turned partially around,
and again gazed into her master's face. He again urged

.'1^

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

her on, and pointed at the same time in the direction which
h'- desired her to take. She now leaped forward into the
woods, giving at the same moment a single yelp, and was
lost to our vision. Nothing more was heard from her until
after the lapse of nearly an hour, when we again faintly
heard the music of her voice. Nearer, still nearer, are
these sounds; clearer, still clearer, are they heard by us on
the lake. Listen, her voice is now becoming fainter: she is
fividently leaving the lake ; the deer which she is running
has turned back : he is making a circle. " Never mind,"
remarked the old hunter, "she will run him so sharply that
he will certainly come to water ; you will hear her voice
again soon." Scarcely half an hour had elapsed when
we again heard her voice ; faint at first, but more and more
and more distinct every succeeding moment. Onward she
steadily went ; she was almost at the lake. A splash was
heard on our right, a few seconds later one was heard on
our left ; Frank whispered, " Take your place in the canoe."
He pushed the little bark from the sand to the water, and
I promptly seated myself in the bow. Frank paddled
noiselessly out into the lake, while we scanned the water
both to the right and left. After the lapse of a few mo-
ments we discovered a buck's heaci, which was held above
the water on our right. The animal was swimming away
from the shore and towards the middle of the lake. He
had not yet discovered us, and we desired to place our
canoe between the swimming deer and the lake-shore in
order to prevent him from returning to the woods before
we could get sufficiently near to take a shot. Frank now
allowed our canoe to float quietly ; the deer was still

>,,;.([

■i

|i^

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

\0.

making towards the centre of the lake. We waited
patiently ; the deer was now a half-mile from the shore
where he had entered the water. The lake at this point
is about two miles in width. We were now ready for the
chase; we can cut him off from the shore where he
entered and kill him before he can cross the lake. Frank
handed me a spare paddle which he had in readiness in
the canoe. The bark is headed, and we both pull away
with all our might. The deer has discovered us: behold his
frantic efforts.

He has turned his head towards the shore and is
making his greatest efforts to avoid this new danger; he
has evaded the dog when he reached the water, but the
chase has been taken up by a more dangerous enemy.

" He has evaded the dog, but "

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

He is now completely foiled : the canoe has come between
him and the shore where he entered ; he turns once more
his head towards the centre of the lake. He has made his
last great effort; his doom is sealed. The Scribe has
dropped his paddle into the bottom of the canoe ^nd picked
up his gun. Frank pulled steadily towards the deer and
gained rapidly. A few moments later a white puff of
smoke arose over the canoe ; the deer dropped his head
and floated motionless in the water, while the sound of the
discharge of the gun in the hands of the Scribe echoed
around the lake. Scarcely had the reverberations died
away when another shot was heard on our right ; still
another: the Governor was at work. He, too, had killed a
deer, while we afterwards learned that the third had run
the shore in front of Esculapius, but he was too much sur-
prised to even fire a shot at this animal. The canoes now
came together on the lake ; we greeted each other warmly ;
everybody was happy once more.

It was now about two o'clock in the afternoon, and we
quickly, decided to go to our camp. The day had been
passed very pleasantly by us and we had been rewarded
with success. I have hunted very frequendy since that day,
but have never seen three deer driven to water by a single
dog in a single run since that time. We continued to hunt
deer several days — a week or more — with Dr. Pokorney
and his wonderful dog. This animal continued to manifest
the same intelligence; was sent into the woods in the same
manner each day by her master, and rarely failed to bring
a deer to the water. This dog would probably not attract
much attention at a bench show, although I have never

!
(

[1,. ■ ;

' ■'.' ;.

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

seen her equal in the field. She was a dark liver-and-white
female hound, called by her master " Fan ;" he did not
know or even care anything about her pedigree. This
grand animal was rather large when compared with the
deer-hounds that I have been accustomed to see, and also
unusually long and lank ; possessed of pleasant, sunken
eyes. She, like her master, was accustomed to work, and
certainly was not overfed. Having reached our camp, the
deer-huncer set to work and quickly dressed both deer,
which were left hanging out of the reach of the dogs. The
other guides gathered the wood and prepared the even-
ing meal, which we will designate as our dinner, inasmuch
as we had not partaken of food since the early morning.
Our repast consisted of trout, venison, coffee, etc., and it is
scarcely necessary to say that it was thoroughly enjoyed by
our whole party. Having completed the meal, and while
the Governor, Esculapius, and Dr. Pokorncy were smoking
their pipes, the question was raised, What shall we do to-
morrow ? Another deer-hunt was finally determined on,
in which Dr. Pokorney and his faithful dog Fan were to
participate. John now excused himself, and hastened
away to report the day's proceedings to his inamorata, while
the old deer-hunter remained with us until the sun had dis-
appeared behind the western hills, when he bade us good-
evening and started for his cabin.

The next morning Dr. Pokorney was with us about six
o'clock. John reached our camp about the same hour. He
was evidently not in the most agreeable frame of mind :
something must have gone wrong since he parted from us
last evening. It is now evident that he intends to direct the

t
r

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

future mov -inents of the whole party. He has informed
Dr. Pokorney that the hunt to-day ought to take place at a
certain point on the lake ; they find themselves unable to
agree on this subject, when the Governor came to the aid
of the latter, and poor John was thus left in the minority.
He could not good-naturedly endure all this, and remained
sullen during the whole day. Poor ufihappy man ! What
is the matter with you ? Are you in love, and loved and
still unhappy? How are we to explain your conduct? We
have carefully studied your case, and have also pondered
seriously the doctrine of the transmigrations as propounded
by Pythagoras, and ask now the question, Has not the soul
of some departed Huron chief found a temporary lodgment
within the body of this unhappy man ? But the more we
studied the antics of this curious fellow the more puzzling
became the solution of the questions. Chief John was not
a lover of " fire-water," but with this exception, his light,
quick, and elastic step, ke^en sight, acute sense of hearing,
extensive knowledge of v/ood-craft, all proclaimed the
ruling spirit of the noble red man, and our guide in his
own words assured us that he possessed all these ; never-
theless there was something wonderfully conflicting be-
tween his words and acts. It was during the second day
of the deer-hunt, led by Dr. Pokorney, that the Governor
declared, in the presence of the Scribe, that inasmuch as
"a house divided against itself cannot stand," therefore
John must take his departure.

It was evident to us that the Governor had reached this
conclusion after much patient thought ; but since the con-
duct of the guides associated with him had been entirely

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

satisfactory to us, the important question that now arose
was, How shall they be treated in this emergency ? The
Governor held an interview with Jim, explained to him the
situation, and it was amicably arranged between them
that the latter and also Frank should go back with John
to Bracebridge. In accordance with this treaty, John and
his assistants departed from our camp the same evening.
It was evident to all observers that this difficult and em-
barrassing negotiation had been conducted with masterly
skill on the part of our ambassador, since even John
seemed satisfied and but slightly crestfallen when he parted
from us. Jim urged us to come back into this country
once more and give him a chance to act as our chief guide,
— a position which we all knew he would fill to our entire
satisfaction, since he had at all times, while in our service,
acted in good faith and with a true regard to our comforts
and best interests. Dr. Pokorney had been consulted by
the Governor before he took this decisive action, and had
informed the latter that he could immediately supply the
required number of assistants canoes, etc. ; in fact, two
colored men in new birch-bark canoes reported at our
camp within an hour after John's departure.

The change was found to be highly agreeable. The
new canoes afforded us a dry, warm seat while we were
on the lake, instead of reposing continually in a cold-water
bath, as we had previously done. Dr. Pokorney now
brought into camp with him his son in addition to the
parties which I have previously mentioned. The son re-
mained in camp, took charge of the fire and tent while the
father and the other guides were engaged with us in the

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

deer-hunting. We were never left in camp without at-
tendants. These guides remained witii us night and day,
although they were unprovided with tents or other shelter
than their canoes. I frequently saw them sit with their
backs supported by trees, sleeping soundly while their
clothing was thoroughly drenched with water and the rain
still pouring down on them. Their canoes, when turned
bottom side up, — bows placed on a log or rock so as to
admit air and light, — afforded them very fair protection
against a storm, while the space beneath them was ample
to enable them to turn or move as much as was necessary
during sleeping hours.

The attendance in camp and the guidance while in
search of game was now all that we could wish. We
found Dr. Pokorney well versed in deer-hunting, and at
the same time intelligent and companionable. His son,
a lad of six en, brave and hardy, frequently amused me
by the narration of hi exploits in the Canadian forests at
mid-wintci-. while engaged as a companion to an old beaver-
trapper. I, ; story, although not entirely new, was indeed
very interesti ^. The boy said, " It was in the latter part
of the month of January that I started, in company with
old Ben, to go back into the bush about seventy-five miles
in order to trap beaver. The weather was very cold and
the snow was nearly three feet deep, and we were com-
pelled to use snow-shoes. The hardest part of our work
consisted in carrying in our provisions, traps, and other
things required in trapping. When we started from this
lake I carried a pack which weighed about fifty pounds.
The first day out we travelled about ten miles, halted for

ini

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

the night and cleared the snow from a space large enough
for the fire and our bed. The required amount of wood
and the balsam boughs were gathered, the fire built and
the bed arranged, after which we prepared and ate our
supper, and then wrapped ourselves in a woollen blanket,
with which each was provided, and lay down for sleep." I
inquired of the lad, "Were you able to sleep?" thinking
the cold would probably act as a potent barrier in this
instance. The reply came promptly from the hardy lad,
" Oh yes ! I slept very well, for Uncle Ben kept up a good
fire all night." He then added, "The next morning, after
breakfast, we again shouldered our packs and pushed for-
ward about six iniles into the forest, when we marked the
spot and buried our luggage." In answer to my inquiry
he informed me that they buried their packs, consisting of
provisions and traps, to keep other trappers, who might
chance to pass that way, from appropriating these articles
to their own use, which might otherwise happen. The
hiding having been completed, the old trapper and his
assistant retraced their steps to the log cabin from which
they had originally started on their journey to the woods.
Here they remained only until the following morning, when
they again^ started with other pac'>:s. This severe work of
packing lasted more than two weeks, when they reached
the locality that had been selected for trapping beaver. I
have avoided a repetition of his daily narrative, lesi; it
might become tiresome to the reader, although it was very
interesting to me when minutely detailed by the junior
participant. The story as told involved the daily doings,
the exposures, hardships, and fatigues of the old back-

*ni

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

woodsman and his youthful assistant. They were in the
woods nearly three months, without the protection of even
a canoe, tent, or any other shelter, during that portion of
the time in which they were engaged in transporting
their provisions and traps to the new field of labor.
Having reached their destination they then erected huts,
which they occupied as long as they remained.

Let us now return to our camp-life on the Lake of the
Bays, from which we have wandered so far while speaking
of Dr. Pokorney's son. We have already described the
deer-hunt that occurred immediately after Dr. Pokorney
joined our party, and in addition to this we have incident-
ally mentioned the fact that on the following day we en-
gaged again in the same sport, which was continued day
after day for more than a week with varying success,
after the departure of John and his assistants. I cannot at
this moment recall the number of animals killed, or the
particulars of each chase, and even were I able to do so
it would certainly be somewhat monotonous to the reader.

When the time came for us to start homeward, it was
suggested by Dr. Pokorney that it would be more con-
venient for us to leave by the way of Huntsville than to
retrace our steps to Baysville ; and consequently we
started from this lake on which we had spent a very
pleasant time in the company of our guides.

We were compelled to portage our canoes and luggage
from Lake of the Bays to Peninsula Lake, but we readily
passed from the latter by its outlet to Fairy Lake and
down this lake to Huntsville, where we parted with Dr.
Pokorney and his colored assistants.

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

We remained at this frontier village only a few hours,
having arrived in the afternoon and taking our departure
the following morning by the old stage-coach, which put
us down in Bracebridge the same day about sunset. The
return to our homes was made without the occurrence of
any important events worthy of mention here.

'I '!!

O/?, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

CHAPTER IV.

The Start and Incidents of the Journey— Lumbermen and their Drunken
Orgies— Travelling by the Royal Mail Stage in Muskoka— The Party
atfacked by Fleas— Camp on Canoe Lake— Deer-Hunting— Governor
Starts for Home— The Remainder of the Party off for New Fields —
Camp on Pickerel Lake— Rain and Fish— Crossing the Horka-Porka
Portage— Camp on Rock Lake — Trout-Fishing— Camp near Loon and
Grass Lakes— Camp on Sand Lake— Homeward Bound.

EDNESDAY, 13TH. — Arrived at the
Falls of Niagara at eight a.m., and a
few moments later started for Toronto,
and reached that city at one-thirty p.m.
Dined, and afterwards saw a display of
the fire department, given in honor of
the magnates of Rochester and Buffalo,
S^who are paying a visit to the exhibition
that is now being held here. The force of the water is so
great that no engines are necessary ; the water, rushing
through the hose, ascends to the highest roof.

Afterwards we strolled through the city, admiring the
beautifully laid out streets and the fine buildings. Among
other scenes we visited St. James' Cathedral, — a magnifi-
cent structure, — and we ascended the spire, which is three
hundred and nineteen feet high. Here a perfect panorama
lay at our feet ; a fine view was obtained, but it was in
miniature, on account of the great height. Yachts were
seen flying through the water ; vessels at anchor ; steam-

.iil

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

■M

ill'

boats, of which there was a fleet, dashing to and fro. A
little beyond was the liome of the great sculler, who learned
to row on the placid waters of the lake, which is here
nearly land-locked. At Toronto we procured camping-
blankets and provisions which we would require whilst
sojourning in the woods. We did not visit the e.xhibition,
as we were anxious to drink in the ozone of the wilderness.
Thursday, \\th. — Started for Gravenhurst, — had a pal-
ace-car to ourselves. The conductor was extremely polite
and attentive, pointing out every object of interest which
we passed on the road. While our time was thus occupied,
in the other car were sixteen lumbermen who were en-
gaged to go into the woods to cut lumber, — men who held
a continual drunken orgy. The bottles of whiskey were
continually passing from mouth to mouth. They were the
most besotted set of men it was ever my lot to encounter.
However, they kept to themselves and troubled no one.
Reached Gravenhurst, — a place consisting of a few houses,
— and immediately took a small steamboat, at half-past one,
and proceeded to the upper part of Lake Rosseau. We
had dinner and supper on board, as the boat did not reach
Rosseau until eight p.m. Three of the lumbermen came
to the table, and we had a scene with one of them. His
appetite was ravenous, and plate after plate disappeared
before him. It made no difference of what it was com-
posed. During dinner the steward called upon him for
the price of his meal, — only forty cents. His reply was
that he would have to wait till he was sure that he had
taken enough, and again he attacked the eatables. If the
rest of the band were only able to come to the table the

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

captain would not realize much from that dinner. This
man did not come to the supper-table. His appetite re-
minded me of an Indian at a feast, laying in a stock for
several days. We stopped at Pratt's Hotel, newly gotten
up and finished. The proprietor is a Bostonian ; he re-
fused the other party, who got accommodations a little
below. During the night they got up and stole all the
whiskey that the landlord hiid. Rosseau is prettily situated
at the head of the lake. The hotel occupies a prominent
location. The proprietor informed us that last summer it
was full o{ guests from Boston and its surroundings. Mr.
Pratt knows how to run a hotel, and his charges are cer-
tainly reasonable, as is shown by the fact that fcr bed and
breakfast he demands only seventy-five cents. The hotel
has since burned down ; the capacity at that time being
about one hundred guests.

We made arrangements with the driver of the mail to
take us and our paraphernalia to Maganetawan. Our
coach was a large farm-wagon without a cover and minus
springs. It was pleasanter without the first, and we were
on the road but a short time when we discovered why it
was without the second. The road, if such it could be
called, was so stony that no springs could stand the jour-
ney without being demolished. After an early breakfast
the wagon drove up to the door, and one of our party
opened his eyes at the prodigious turnout. He said that
he would prefer a spring-wagon ; so would we, but there
was no alternative. Thirty-five miles had to be travelled
before we reached our destination. We took our guns
and rods, and the driver then informed us that with our-

- m

'f -'i iiS; $,

'C \

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

selves and the other passen<^ers the load would be so
heavy that he could not take our provisions, but he would
send them later. We informed him that he must take the
luj^gage or not take us, and after a good deal of dilly-dally-
ing he loaded up, and we proceeded. To describe the ride
in that Royal mail-coach is impossible ; hardly had we left
the hotel when our misery commenced. Our seat was a
pine board with no back to support you, and nothing to
hold on to as you were pitched from side to side. Now
when we descend a hill there is a tendency to pitch for-
ward, and again a sudden ast. t impels you to turn a
back-somersault. Walking was far preferable to riding
in such a conveyance, especially as the horses could not
move at a faster gait than a walk.

We soon overtook two wagons carrying the lumber-
men, as many of them were unable to walk, although
some were endeavoring to do so ; and they presented a
novel sight, too, with handkerchiefs tied about their heads
in lieu of the hats they had lost during their drunken
revels. The scene that one of the wagons presented was
a disgrace to humanity : one of the number was stretched
out on his back, — hors de combat, — while another was pour-
ing whiskey down his throat, the miserable victim in his
stupor not knowing what physic he was taking. We
passed this party, glad to get rid of their company.
Arrived at Maganetawan at seven p.m., every bone in our
bodies sore and tired. Never had such experience in our
lives ; you pay well sometimes for your sport. That night
before retiring to bed sent for a guide, and made arrange-
ments with him.

OR, T'lE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

Friday, \$lh. — This morning tlw Governt r anvl myself
went fishing on the river, but with no hick. I vas so tired
last night tiiat I slept soundly, but my companions informed
me that though they, too, were tired, sweet sleep visited
them not. In its place they passed a restless night, troubled
with a multitude of lleas, which gave them no rest. In die
afternoon we went out and caught bass and pickerel under
the guidance of a gamin called Johnny McCarthy, who was
as sharp as a steel-trap, and knew where the fish were to be
caught. He was the embryo sportsman. We were obliged
to wait this day for the guide, Captain George Ross, who
lives three miles from this village, which consists of Scotch
settlers and Canadians. There are two small groceries
and two inns, at one of wnich (kept by Clark) we rested.

During the day we sent our traps by stage to the place
where we were to camp, seven miles from Clark's. The
day was fine, but it rained during the night. I was amused
that night to hear the conversation of those assembled at
Clark's. This, it seemed, was the rendezvous of the vil-
lage. During the day a woman had died, and the village
carpenter was engaged in making — I will not call it a
coffin — a box ; it was original. The dead woman had
been married a year; the people seemed to mourn her
loss, as she was a kind person. It Impressed me very
much to see the sympathy of the neighbors.

Saturday, \6th. — Hired a wagon and started for the
camp. After riding a distance we dismounted and took a
birch canoe on Canoe Lake, and finally reached our camp.
The tent was up and the larder was furnished with a deer,
which the guide had killed the day before, besides arrang-

THE SPORTSMAN* S PARADISE.

ing the cainp. Wo partook to-day, for the first time, of a
dinner under a tent in the woods. The chnnge from a set
table with all its conveniences to the camp with its impro-
vised accommodations is a decided one, but I think we all
enjoyed this dinner, although the Governor wanted a
napkin. He was the only one for whom a cup and saucer
were procured in Toronto; the rest of the camp and table
utensils were of tin. Our camp was delightfully situated
about one hundred feet from the lake. We were much
pleased with the good taste exhibited by our guide in the
selection of the spot. This afternoon we went out hunting,
and Dr. W. was the first to bring down a deer, which he
killed a short distance from the camp. This afternoon our
force was increased by I. Nelson, an old man, and George,
his son, a young fellow about twenty. Our number is now
six men all told. We have two hounds and two canoes.

Our beds are composed of the tops of firs placed on
Mother Earth. The night had its discomforts as well as
pleasures ; unhappily, we had obtained some blankets from
Clark's, and with them was the inevitable flea, which, like
the mosquito, gives no rest. We passed a miserable night
on account of these pests, but propose to beat them out
to-morrow. ' '

Sunday. — A day of rest.

Monday. — Went fishing on the lake ; small trout and
chubs are the only fish the lake contains.

Tuesday. — The Governor and myself each shot a deer.

Wednesday. — Dr. W. went out with the gun and
brought in some partridges.
. . Thursday. — This evening we were frightened when

'II

••Tuesday, the Goven or and myself each shot a deer."

I n iK8f »i

T//JS SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

Mil I

George set fire to the frying-pan in wliich he was preparing
to cook some fish. His cries of "Water! water!" aroused
the whole camp. The next episode was the Governor
being nearly frozen to death. He forgot in getting into
bed to go between the blankets, and on the dawn of day
he became aware of his scanty covering, although we keep
up a rousing fire before the tent all night. We have im-
proved our camp, having erected a dining-room near the
tent, open on the front and closed in on both sides, with a
roof made of pine boughs. Here we have our table, and
we are as happy as kings, eating our meals. The Gov-
ernor insisted that it would be more civilized to eat off a
table than off the ground, so we followed his suggesdon.
The Governor and myself took with us the old man Nelson
to visit a beaver-dam, but before we had reached it we got
tired and returned ; took a gun with us, and killed some
partridges, — a foolish bird. It flies from the ground and
perches on a limb, looking down. If there should be a
flock on the tree, the report of a gun will not frighten them
aw'iy, and, provided you VIA the lowest one first, and so on,
you may bag the entire lot.

Young George went out to start a deer ; did not return
till the following day. Says that he lost his way. The
opinion of the camp was that he got lazy and slept out in
a haystack.

Thursday y 2\st. — Took a stroll through the woods. In
the afternoon a deer was shot ; the hinder part was partly
eaten by one of the hounds.

Friday^ 72d. — Broke up camp and went to the head
of the lake. The Governor took the stage for Rosseau

■PBIPOTma

=Fm

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA.

on his way home. George and his father went home, and
we pitched our camp on the shores of the lake. Got milk
from Averill's. The captain went in search of another
guide. As we were coming down the lake in the canoes,
which were loaded to the gunwale, one of the dogs under-
took to jump out and come to our canoe, nearly upsetting
the one containing the Governo . However, nothing more
serious resulted than ihe shipi :.i^ of some water and the
severe flight to our friend.

Captain Ross now went home, and Dr. W. and myself
were alone.

Saturday, 23^^, — The captain came to the camp about
ten o'clock, accompanied by Bob Noble, who was to go
with us as the second guide. We ate dinner an-^ started
up the lake for Maganetawan in a canoe, and reached there
in the evening. Camped a little above the falls, near a saw-
mill. Visited Clark, and was invited by him to rest there
that night. Remembering the experience that we had
under his roof on our first night at Maganetawan, we
replied that he evidently had too many to accommodate
already, and only took our supper there. This evening
the boy, John McCarthy, begged so hard to accompany us
that we finally consented, and a happy boy he was. I
think he slept but little that night. He is fourteen years
of age, and his whole delight is in fishing. He has never
been out on an expedition before.

Sunday, 2^lh. — After breakfast at Clark's we stat-ted
for Burk's Falls, a distance of twenty miles. The morn-
ing was fair, but shortly after starting it commenced to
rain, and continued all day. We stopped at twelve for

A i;

1 1 'i

yo THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADI^ ;

lunch and then proceeded, — die captain and I in the litde
canoe and the doctor and Bob in the larcrer one. Well
provided with rubber outfit, I kept dry, while the others
were wet. Arrived sately at Burk's Falls, — named after
Burk, who four years ago settled here, and who keeps a
store ; there is also a post-office and a new hotel building.
The enterprise shown by the government is wonderful.
Every little settlement has its post-office and regular mail.
A steamboat runs from the tails to Maganetawan every
other day. We tried our luck widi the fish and caught a
nice lot for supper. We camped by thf^ river.

Mondcy, 2^th. — Started fot Pickerel Lake. Hired
Burk's team to take our luggage beyond the first portage.
I went with the team ; the others by canoe. After the
portage was passed the c-iptain and I took one canoe, the
doctor and Bob the other. We had not proceeded far
when we ran into a snag, and to prevent sinking before we
reached the land, I had to hold my hand over the rent in the
side of the canoe while Captain Ross paddled us ashore.

With a piece of cloth and an application of warm pitch
we were soon afloat again. At noon we took our dinner.
The doctor got out his tackle, and in a few moments
landed some nice bass and pickerel, which made an appe-
tizing addition to our mid-day meal. He had also two
'^ rises' of trout.

Arrived in the evening at Pickerel Lake ; went out
and caught some bass and pickerel. There is good trout-
fishing here. This lake is two miles long. We encamped
at the head of it. Four settlers are located on its shores,
and live by fishing and hunting as well as by cultivating

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

7«

the ground. Last Saturday our next neighbor, Mossup^
killed a black bear about half a mile from our encampment.

It rained nearly all day ; too wet to hunt ; went trolling
in the lake, and caught some very fine bass. In the after-
noon tried to start a deer, but failed.

Wednesday, 2']th. — Equinoctial storm; wet! wet! wet!
Went fishing, and caught some fish. Have had no flesh
meat since we left Maganetawan. Fish is our principal
food. George went out and started a deer, but it took to
another lake. It rained all day ; very cold ; varied by
snowing in the evening. The wind was very sharp and
cold. Received a visit from Mossup's two sons. Got a
supply of potatoes from him. It is remarkable what fine
potatoes are raised on this virgin soil. ,

Thursday, 2%th. — Still wet and cold. Tried fishing, but
the lake was too rough for success. In hopes of pro-
viding some partridge for the table we went out with our
guns, but the endeavor failed. Had for dinner bouillon,
potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions ; splendid appetite.
Captain Ross does not know what to do. The doctor has
the blues ; would like to be home
mountain for partridge ; no use.
on the lake .-xnd caught £ome fish near the shore, although
the lake was covered with white-caps. The doctor is
fixing his pants ; sewed the pockets up by camp-light.

Fiiday, 29M. — Rained all last night ; raining this
morning. George started a deer, — a large buck, — but
did not get him ; he disappeared very mysteriously. A wet
day ; drooping spirits in camp. Captain George sick : a
bloody dysentery ; gave him the last of the spirits ; he

I V/ent out on the
In the afternoon went

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

• 1

went to MossLip's house. The doctor and Bob are out in
the canoe watching for deer. In the afternoon they went
out fishing ; caught four bass and two pickerel. Made a
pond for the fish, but in the morning they were missing,
having been taken by the minks.

Saturday, ^t'^th. — Wet morning. Went out looking for
help ; paddled about till ten o'clock, v/hen he got Mossup
and his boy to come and help carry the baggage, so that we
could go straight on without returning. The captain was
unwilling to start, as he said it would rain ; but the doctor
was determined, and to show it we started on before them,
so that they had to follow. It rained a li . i the morn-
ing, — very little. The doctor and I started with our guns
and rods ; lost the trail, but kept on our course, and the
first thing we met was a high mountain. We faced it, and
by hard work, climbing and crawling, we reached the top.
A beautiful sight rewarded our efforts : no less than three
lakes were to be seen at the foot of the mountain. We
also descried our party in a ravine, and built a fire to
attract their attention. They saw it, and we hastened to
join them. We descended the side of the mountain and
found them all right, except that they had decided to camp
there for the day. We decided, after partaking of a light
meal, to proceed on our way. The account given by the
captain of the portage v/as sufficient to intimidate any one
but ourselves. Our word was Otiward f We were told
that we could not make the journey before night, and that
when we reached P.ock Lake, for wliich we v/^)" houiiu,
there would be no place to pitch our ten.t. We wf r j re-
solved, however, to go on, and we did, \^di of M'- rne

s'*'

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

portages, this beat them all! Through a bog, wet and
miifMy, over logs, and through bushes, well interlaced, we
finally reached our resting-place on Rock Lake. We
found that the only place suitable for a camp was on a
rocky cliff, about thirty feet above the lake, not more than
twenty feet clear on the surface, and little or no wood, as
there had been a fire. The lake was alive with fish ; the
doctor tried them, but they would not bite. Wearied and
exhausted, we impatiently awaited the cooking of a pot of
beans ; and before they were half boiled, so great was our
hunger, we attacked the pot.

We had to drive pegs in the crevices of the rock, and
in many instances were compelled to put stones as weights
on the canvas to keep the tent in place. Wc slept,
however, soundly.

Sunday, October i. — The night was stormy; thunder
and lightning with high winds. The guides' tent was blown
down on them, but they were so tired that they slept on
when they found that their lives were safe, although the
manner in which Bob prayed aloud would open the eyes
of any saint. The doctor and myself tried to improve
on our bed of the previous night by knocking off some
of the sharp points of the rocks on which we slept. It
was truly the hardest and most uneven that we ever slept
on, and we prefer to be excused from a repetition ; so, as
we had to remain there another night, we tried to make
it at least smoother, if not softer. The doctor went out
and caught eleven large trout, and as the larder was bare,
it is no exaggeration to add that they were very acceptable
after yesterday's tramp and our sumptuous (?) supper.

III

,11 !i

1 1

77/^ SPORTSAfAN'S PARADISE;

The captain and Bob started back after the rest of the
baggage, which they had left where we took hinch, and
came into camp about four o'clock p.m. with a beautiful
specimen of a large owl that they had shot. The doctor
had to provide food for the camp, and brought in a fine lot
of trout. We set Bob to work, with an axe, levelling our
bed, by cutting out stumps, driving down stones, and
raising up others. We had to be careful, for we were
limited in space, — liable to fall and break our necks.

It rained all day , the niides were in ])ad humor.

Monday, 2d. — Clianged camp to-day. First we had a
portage of a quarter of a mile to Mud Lake, followed by
a portage of half a mile to Loon Lake, both of which
we crossed, and camped between Loon and Grass Lakes.
In crossing Loon Lake we trolled and caught some
speckled and salmon trout, several weighing from two to
three pounds. This is a beautiful lake, and we encamped
on a lovely spot. There is about forty rods of ground
intervening between the two lakes. We set to work here
fixing our camp; the doctor gathering a fine supply of
young branches for a bed, whilst I was making a fire to
burn the roots and leave the ground nice and dry where
we were to sleep. With our delightful situation — plenty
of fine fish and an abundance of johnnj'-cake for supper —
we were happy, and slept the sleep of the jusi.

Tuesday, 3^. — Bob went out in quest of a dog that
had folio w';d a deer yesterday and had not returned ;
finally discovered him in the camp of a hunter named
Harvey, and returned with him to us. I went out for a
strol) and got some partridges. Bob and the captain went

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

after deer in the morning, but were unsuccessful. The
doctor started out in the morning in search of partridge,
and at four o'clock in the afternoon a furious storm arose.
At half-past five we sent Bob out in a canoe across the
lake, as we heard the report of the doctor's gun. The '
thunder and lightning were severe. After a while we made
a fire on the border of Loon Lake to direct them home.
In the glare of the lightning we saw Bob, in the canoe,
shouting with his might and main. He finally reached the
shore, though the wind lashed the lake into high waves.
Again we heard the report of the doctor's gun ; this time
the captain took one of the canoes and went in search of
the doctor. The storm increased in violence ; it was a
terrible night. Towards eight o'clock we heard shouting
on the lake. It was the captain retu aing, bringing home
my companion, — safe, though wet to tlie skin. He had
built a fire and it had set fire to a decayed tree, which had
some time before been struck by the Irghlning, and for a
great distance around the fire lighted up everything, and
thus directed the steps of the guide throygh the darkness
to the spot Thf" doctor had wandered to another lake,
and as he t ought he was yet c«i Loon Lake, he lost his
way. He had not provided himself with a pocktl com-
pass. It is a serious thing to get lost in the wilds of
Canada .

Wednesday, ^tk. — A fine breakfast, — partridges and
splendid trout. We enjoy camp-life very much Went
out deer-hunting, and before noon we had a fine buck
hung up, weighing over two hundred pounds. ' "^ne of
the dogs was again lost, and Bob went to hunt him up ;

; i'-i *

Mil

'ill!!

Il ' I

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

took my breech-loader with him. Scene, — Bob returns,
swearing like a trojper ; wet and cold, — it is now the month
of October and ice has already formed, — wants to change
his clothing; stands by the camp-fire, dripping wet. In
the mean time he shouts to me, " Your gun is lost ; it is

^ll#>«

.1 j..<

" It is a Mrrious thing to g^ lost in the wilds uf Canada."

.-a;/^-''-' r

in the bottom of the lake." He mfarms me llitit ihe dog
upset the canr>e, and that he was compelled to swim
ashore. Went fishing and caught aiMqF tfOUt, — as many
as we desired. It rained several times tt» (Iwy, The boy,
John, set his trap for mink and caught sevtMal. Made a
rake to go fishing after my gun that went to the bottom
of the lake. D'^ctor and Bob went to find the lost gun ;

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

the captain and I after deer. We started one, which took
to a neighboring lake. Went to this lake, and, the water
being clear, we discovered the gun at tlie bottom. Took
a line and hook and brought up the gun, the hook having
caught the guard. It seems that there was no dog in the
boat, and that Bob was about to fire when the canoe upset ;
both barrels being cocked, as we discovered when we
raised the gun. We joked Bob about the canoe being
upset by a dog when there was a man in it. It was worse
than sleeping in a hayslack. He felt sheepish and con-
siderably " riled" ; so much so that he refused point-blank
to accompany the doctor in the little canoe. It rained
to-day.

Friday, ttk. — Started a deer this morning, but after
some running it took a direction straight^ from us, so that
wc were obliged to give 't up. Returned to camp, and
after dinner the captain went to try to get a man to help
us move, as we have decided to go on to-monuvv. We
obtaincMl a (pianlity of potatoes, Several birds wen- shot,
and also a marten. Tried to fish, but they would not
•iHse."

Saturday, yih. — Broke camp and started to Sand Lake.
The portage was three miles long, a good even trail, and
we had a man to assist in carrying the luggage. On our
way one of the dogs started a deer. The captain, who
carried on his shoulders one of the canoes bearing our
cooking-utensils and paddles, starteu on a run two miles
from the lake to which we were bound. We proceeded
leisurely, shooting partridge as we went along ; lost our
way, and had to retrace our steps before we got on the

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

M ,

right trail. When we approached the border of the lake
we found the sand strewn with kettles and pots, and on
looking on the lake we beheld the captain driving before
him a very fine deer, which the dog had started two miles
back. The doctor took the other canoe, and with one of
the guns killed the deer. The captain had no weapon with
him except the paddle, and this he was unwilling to use on
the deer. He kept it swimming until we arrived. We
encamped in the midst of a pine grove, the most beautiful
spot it was my good fortune to see. There lay tlie lake
in all its natural beauty, backed by beautiful scenery ;
trees that spring up sixty feet as straight as an arrow be-
fore your eye would encounter a single branch. A silence
that was solemn. The doctor and myself sat hour after
hour gazing on the scene on a moonlight night, as the
waters of the lake rippled on, and we exclaimed, '" Oh, that
a painter worthy of the subject was here !" Here was
nature unadorned, in all her primeval beauty. At some
distance from us was a house, where we obtained milk and
potatoes, which we relished.

October lo. — Went to visit W. Tucker, where I dined
and procured some bread. It seemed a little strange, after
being out in camp, to be within the walls of a house. Had
several hunters of the surrounding country to visit us.
They were on a hunt ; had one deer.

October ii. — Went out fishing on the lake in a dug-
out, and while fishing shot a deer, which I brought to shore,
Having towed it with the fishing-line. It was slow work
bringing it in, as the pesky old dug-out was so easily upset.
I astonished the doctor when I informed him that I caught

OK, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA,

him on the line. We had now two other deer besides
mine. 1 his lake is three miles long and one of the most
beautiful of lakes.

October 12. — Started for home. Crossed the lake, win-
tered the waters of the South River, and paddled with a
light heart for the land of the free. Wo came to Kearney,
where there was a store, but no refreshments on hand.
Kept on until three o'clock, and then lunched. Started
again ; found many rapids where we were obliged to walk.
Camped at six o'clock ; had abundance for dinner, — par-
tridges, venison, and potatoes, no bread. Slept soundly.

October 13. — Started early; at the first rapids one of
the dogs tarted a deer ; had to wait an hour for the beast.
The other canoe went ahead. The canoe leaked badly.
Reached Burk's Falls at three and a half p.m. Here we
took a steamboat, and after a safe and uneventful journey
from this point, we reached home again October 16.

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WERSTER.N.Y. I4S80

(7.4) 872-4503

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

CHAPTER V.

1 1 I

The Start for a Grand Moose- and Dker-Hunt — Selection of a Photogra-
pher AND the Chief Guide— A Romantic Wedding and the Honey-
moon — Arrival at Rosseau Village — Canadian Stage Route — Proprietor
AND Driver— Our Old Fxiend " Chris" — Our New-Made Acquaintances-
Mr. Stkice, of Brooklyn.

Hi'

HE necessary preparations for a
grand moose- and deer-hunt which I
commenced in the month of July,
■'^1884, were not completed until the
20th of September in the same
year. I had originally anticipated
that I would be able to persuade
some personal friend to accom-
pany me ; but when I informed them that I should probably
be away from home at least two months, and that there
were certain hardships and privations that were inseparable
from moose-stalking, I found no one inclined to become a
member of my party. I was therefore placed in a position
to organize this expedition on a basis which 'vas strictly in
harmony with my own wishes. The great object that I
wished to accomplish by this trip was an improvement of
my health, inasmuch as I was then suffering from gluco-
suria, making it necessary for me to take very active ex-
ercise, which to a lazy man is commonly felt to be a mean
sort of drudgery. I therefore took advantage of my love
of the chase, and thereby changed what would otherwise

» >■ ". < " "WWipW^IW^i^y^

til

:< 1

O/?, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

have been an irksome duty into a pleasant pastime. It
required but little reflection on my part to discern the ad-
vantages that might accrue from the presence of a photog-
rapher in my party, since he would enable me to bring
away from the wilderness so many grand scenes which,
otherwise, would be so soon forgotten, even by myself,
and never enjoyed by my friends. It was while I was im-
bued with this idea that I met Anton Mildenbeiger, an
educated gentleman and highly skilled landscape photogra-
pher, who very readily consented to become a member of
my party. This gentleman possessed in a very high de-
gree those qualities, physical, mental, and social, which are
so important in every member of such a hunting-party.
The reader will readily perceive that since there is much
heavy labor to be performed, especially on the portages, it is
very desirable that each member of the party should be able
to give some assistance, and it likewise requires physical
strength to travel long distances through these unbroken
forests. It is equally evident that, prioi to engaging a
photographer for such an expedition as I was about to start
on, his mental and social qualities should be carefully con-
sidered. Having given the necessary attention to all these
points, I finally determined to employ Mr. Mildenberger.

About the middle of August the terms were arranged,
and he was requested to be in readiness for the departure
on the 20th of September. I had reached the conclusion,
prior to entering on this engagement, that the indiviaual
selected for this duty was neither an epicure nor a dude,
and therefore I believed that he might be able to content
himself in a hunter's camp. This conclusion was. in some

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

measure, based on the tact that. I had learned from a thor-
oughly reliable source that my photographer had served as
a private soldier in the German army during the whole of
the Franco-Prussian War ; and I was then — as I am now —
thoroughly convinced that in such a school a strong char-
acter is formed, frivolities forgotten, and mafihood developed.
Let the reader study the character of Anton Mildenberger
throughout the entire story of this hunt before he declares
that the opinion I have just expressed is incorrect.
• The selection of the chief guide, although a matter of
great importance to any hunting-party, did not in this in-
stance require much thought on my part, as I was thor-
oughly acquainted with George Ross, who resides at
Spence, in the district of Muskoka, province of Ontario,
Canada, and with whom the reader has already been made
familiar in the preceding pages of this book, especially
with his exploits in deer-hunting, etc. These remarkable
feats, which have been recorded by my friend and com-
panion in a former hunt in these backwoods, were all
familiar to me when I made my arrangements for a third
visit to this grand forest. I was likewise aware of the fact
that there were then only two competent moose-hunters
and guides for all that region which I had determined to
enter, and these were Captain George Ross and h*s
brother, Wellington, These brothers were the first white
men to penetrate that magnificent forest lying north and
northeast of Pickerel Lake and the Lake of the Bays and
south of the Ottawa River for the purpose of trapping
beaver. This forest still contains many thousand square
miles, which are in the same primitive condition as they

mssa

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

were a hundred years ago. It was in this great forest that
I spent six vveelvs without meeting a human being, except
the members of my own party, or seeing even a trapper's
cabin, with the exception of two or three that had been
built by the Ross brothers. These brcdiers liad been
trapping in that wilderness about fourteen years, and are
certain that when they first entered it it did not contain
moose nor any trace of those animals. They say that the
moose made their appearance here after the prevalence of
heavy forest fires which prevailed in the country east of
this region, and that this was contemporaneous with the
commencement of work on the Canadian Pacific Railroad.
I wrote to Captain George Ross, making my engagement
with him about the middle of July, 1884; thus early in order
that he might prepare the necessary outfit, and likewise
construct new birch-bark canoes, and engage an assistant
guide, etc. He promptly informed me of his acceptance,
and promised to have everything in readiness for us. It
was, therefore, with the fullest confidence in the complete-
ness of my arrangements that I took my departure from
Jersey City on the evening of the 20th of September, 1884,
in company with my photographer.

Nothing of importance transpired until we reached
Gravenhurst wharf, on the 2 2d of September. This oc-
curred at about two p.m., and we went immediately on
board of the steamboat " Nippissing," where I met an in-
telligent gendeman, who informed me that he was one of
the first settlers in the vicinity of Rosseau, having settled
about thirty years ago in the backwoods, built for himself
and wife a small log cabin, and afterwards cut down the

^i';!

W ;

('■

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

'''

forest-trees, changing the wilderness into a farm, on which
he reared a family, and where he still continued to reside.
He spoke of the sufferings and deprivations endured by
himself and other pioneers who first ventured to settle in
this cold, rocky wilderness, where they were generally
widely separated from each other, and likewise at a great
distance from those depots which furnished them with tiie
necessaries of life.

It often became necessary for these pioneers to walk
through unbroken forests a distance of forty or sixty miles
in order to buy provisions, or even mail a letter, while their
only means of transportation, during the season in which
the lakes and rivers were not frozen, was the birch-bark
canoe ; but when these avenues of travel were closed with
ice, they wf re then compelled to perform the labor which,
in California and other portions of the United States, is
done by pack-mules.

Furthermore, the difficulty which attended this trans-
portation of provisions was not by any means the most
serious one with which they had to contend, inasmuch as
the amount of cash carried by them into the wilderness
was generally very limited, and consequently soon ex-
hausted ; a condition which, in some instances, was fol-
lowed by death from starvation, while in other cases these
poor sufferers were compelled to subsist for many weeks
on no other food than turnips, eaten without salt or pepper,
while at other times a meal was made of birch-buds or
seed-potatoes that had been planted some weeks. In
order that the reader may understand this dreadful con-
dition of things, he should be informed that the pioneers

StIUJLi "11

•"**-

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

«5

who first settled on these " Free Grant Lands" were very
poor, possessing no live-stock of any kind, and in many
instances they were even strangers to the American ron-
tioent, — persons who had been tempted by the offer of
lands to leave their homes in Europe, and in many cases,
too, these immigrants were entirely ignorant of all agricul-
tural pursuits.

Many of these people became quickly discouraged.
Some turned back from the front without even attempting
to battle with the cold climate and the discouraging sur-
roundings ; some remained there only a few weeks or
months, and then left the " Free Grant Lands" thoroughly
discouraged and frequently half famished. However, there
was still another class of these early adventurers who went
into this wild wilderness — this land of beautiful lakes and
hills — possessed of strong hands and strong wills, fully
determined to make a home for themselves ; and tJiese
have battled bravely ; have won, and to thevt belongs the
spoils. It was to this class that the gentleman whom I met
on the boat belonged. He supplied me with much valu-
able information in regard to the early history of the
country about Lakes Muskoka and Rosseau, — a district
which is now fairly settled, and where the necessaries, with
many of the luxuries, of life are now enjoyed by its inhab-
itants.

This gentleman, like the old soldier or sailor whom we
occasionally meet, was delighted with the opportunity that
was now offered him to detail to me his struggles and his
successes ; and I was likewise highly pleased with the in-
formation which he imparted. A process similar to that

\ 4

: ( ■!

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE:

•which I have just described, in connection with the lands
about these lakes, is now going on in the adjacent terri-
tory, although I think the Canadian government is giving
more assistance to these struggling pioneers.

Assistance is afforded to the immigrants by the erection
of a house at various points along the canoe routes, where
provisions are stored, and where the weary traveller is
permitted to halt and refresh himself until able once more
to move forward. Important assistance is also afforded to
these early settlers by the government in the construction
of wagon roads, which open up the forest soon after the
advance of the pioneers, and the establishment of schools
and post-offices wherever demanded by the representative
heads of five families. It will thus be observed that the
pioneer has no just cause for complaint against the gov-
ernment at the present day.

Having portrayed some of the stern realities of life in
these regions, we will now turn to a mere romantic occur-
rence, which we are informed was enacted on Lake Ros-
seau and other neighboring lakes during the summer of
18S4. A young gentleman, die son of the pioneer whom I
met on the steamboat " Nippissing," had determined to take
to himself a wife. He had been employed several years
as a clerk in a banking-house at Toronto, and it was in
this city that he met the young lady whom he subsequently
married. In order that the marriage might be in keeping
with the honeymoon, it had been decided that it should be
celebrated on a green-clad island in the centre of Lake
Rosseau, — the same beautiful sheet of water near which
he made his first appearance, as an infant, to the great

jggmm

OH, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

delight of his father's heart, just twenty-five years prior to
this nuptial celebration, which occurred on the twenty-fifth
day of June, 1884. Very little preparation had been made
on the island, or, in fact, was needed for the proper cele-
bration of this important event, since the underbrush was
not, at any point, dense ; consequently the assembled
guests could pass readily from one part of the beautiful
grove to another without that inconvenience that other-
wise might have been felt, especially by the ladies in the
party. The trees growing on this island consisted prin-
cipally of five varieties: near the water's edge were seen
the graceful tamarack and the beautiful balsam, while
rising high above the others and near its centre were
observed three great white pines, and these were sur-
rounded by a heavy growth of white and yellow birch-
trees.

The appearance of the island has changed very little
since the first settlers paddled their birch-bark canoes
through the clear waters of Lake Rosseau.

Fire, the great destroyer of the primitive beauty of
the surrounding forest, had left this spot untouched, and
here stood to-day the same giant trees which forty years
ago had served the groom's father as the beacon-guide to
his forest home. Great changes during this period had
been wrought on the shores of Lake Rosseau ; the set-
tlers at various places had made clearings and built for
themselves the primitive log cabins, which had, in some
cases, passed away, giving place to beautiful frame cot-
tages. Much of the remaining wilderness has been
burned over, killing the great forest-trees, which were,

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

III

'I ■/

however, still standing, speaking to us, like the Egyptian
pyramids, of the times that have passed ; and these dead
trunks without branches are now surrounded by young,
living trees, which have sprung up subsequently to these
fires. Other changes had already been inaugurated, but
not by the sturdy pioneer; these originated with the city
denizens, who have selected certain choice spots on which
they have erected summer-homes.

• We have thus carefully described the island and its sur-
roundings prior to inviting the reader to witness with us
the joyful ceremony which was just about to be performed
in this romantic spot. The appointed day was at hand; the
sun was journeying rapidly towards the western horizon ; it
was already three o'clock ; the hour of four had been fixed
for the performance of the ceremony, and our informant
had determined to be on the spot in time to witness the
arrival of the bride and groom, who, with their city friends,
were expected to come on the steamboat, which would land
them on the island. The other invited guests, living about
the lake, were expected to come in such boats, canoes, etc.,
as they possessed. Soon after three o'clock there could
have been seen approaching the island several small row-
boats, a half-dozen canoes, and a single dug-out. Each boat
carried several persons, males and females, young and old,
attired in their holiday suits : these boats contained the
more wealthy class of pioneers with their families. The
occupants of the canoes were chiefly males and belonged
to the hunting classes. These hunters were for the most
part attired in hunting-coats, which were ornamented with
much fringe, thus displaying a characteristic of the original

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA,

inhabitant of these grand forests, and this was further imi-
tated by the bnght colors shoion in the various articles of
dress, especially in the needle-work that ornamented their
moccasins.

The solitary occupant o^ the dug-out was a poor im-
migrant, who had but recently arrived in this country in
order to avail himself of the " Free Grant Lands," and
likewise settle near his brother, who had preceded him
twenty years, having settled on this lake in 1864. It was
half-past three o'cIock when the steamboat was descried
approaching the island from the direction of Toronto. At
this moment many of the invited guests residing about the
lake had effected a landing. The boats and canoes of
these were drawn well on terra Jirma, while there was still
a certain number of the small water-craft to be seen on
the lake.

The point selected for the landing of the steamboat
was well chosen. It was directly in front of a large, flat
rock, which extended from the water's edge back several
rods into the forest, while its width was about one-third of
its length. The upper surface of this rock did not rise at
any point materially above the surface of the surrounding
earth, while the water in front of it was now more than
six feet deep, enabling the steamer to approach, run out
its ordinary gang-plank, and deliver its passengers with-
out the slightest danger, having been previously made fast
by means of ropes to two balsam-trees which were stand-
ing in convenient positions. This steamboat had been the
principal object of attention by all parties assembled on
the island, from the moment when she was first sighted in

■*>

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

r '

the distance until tiiey greeted her arrival at this point.
Especially had the group seated on her upper forward
deck been the object of attention. This party was com-
posed of an equal number of neatly-clad males and fe-
males, who had seated themselves in chairs, that had been
arranged more or less regularly around the central figures,
— the bride and groom.

This company was composed mainly of the bride's
relatives who resided in the vicinity of Toronto. The
bride was, this day, the most important personage in the
whole party, and therefore ntitled to a brief description
at our hands, although our informant was not able to give
us all the information that we desired, especially that which
related to her trousseau, and therefore our readers must
pardon the omission of much which would certainly serve
to embellish this part of our story. The bride had just
attained her twentieth birthday, and had received, through
the careful attention of her parents, a sound education.
It had been their strongly-cherished desire to prepare her
for the stern duties of life rather than to give her a mere
smattering of those branches of learning that are merely
ornamental, and often learned only to be forgotten a few
months after leaving the recitation-room. She had, there-
fore, been thoroughly trained by her mother in the man-
agement of household affairs, even without neglecting the
highly-important lessons in domestic economy. She like-
wise possessed a thorough English education, having
shown in school a great aptness for mathematical studies,
in which she particularly excelled.

In personal appearance she was comely without being

!i:i

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

a remarkable beauty. She had been a great favorite with
the gentlemen, but no man lived who could truthfully as-
sert that she had ever llirted. Her figure was symmet-
rical and her movements g«"aceful. She stood about five
feet and ten inches, attired as she was on the day that she
was married. She belonged to that class of beauties com-
monly designated as brunettes, having a dark complexion,
black hair, brown eyes, and a well-rounded face. Iler
forehead was moderately high and rather broad. The
eyes were of medium iize, full, and when in repose wore
a kindly expression, but were capable, under excitement,
of expressing the deepest love or the most intense hatred.
The nose was rather long, but shapely; .nouth only of
medium size ; chin v/ell rounded and not too prominent.
It will noc now surprise the reader when informed that this
lady's countenance, in repose, seemed only m-Jerately
attractive, but when lighted up with strong excitement it
became divinely expressive. The groom, who now sat at
her side, was tall and rather slender, his figure erect, bear-
ing dignified, movements slightly awkward, while the ex-
pression of his countenance wanted a little in that firmness
and force which characterized the bride's. He was fully
six feet in height, having a light complexion, light-brown
hair, light-blue eyes, which were slightly sunken, thin face,
with thin straggling side-whiskers, a small nose, moderately
large mouth, and a slightly-receding chin and forehead.
We have now given the reader as much of the personality
of the bride and groom as will amply suffice for this
occasion. In the matter of dress, we can only say that
the groom wore a soft felt hat. and that not a single silk

111

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

\\aX. was to be seen in the whole party. The ladies were
neatly attired for the occr^'on, bat cilk and satin dresses
were conspicuous only by their entire absence. Bright-
colored ribbons and good cheer prevailed among the as-
sembled females. Let us now return to the landing of the
guests whom we have carefully surveyed on the steamer's
deck. The moment this vessel had been made fast the
party seated on the upper deck arose and descended to
the gang-plank, over which they passed, the ladies resting
gracefully on the arms of their escorts, the bride and
groom being the third couple to land. The party passed
forward over the smooth but gradually ascending surface
of the rock, which has already been described, in the same
order they had left the steamer, until they were hidden in
the grove. The moment they stepped from this rock they
found the earth covered .vith a thick layer of beautiful
moss, extending in every direction about them for many
rods, while in front there had been arranged an elerant
arcii, formed by entwining the branches of two neighboring
trees, and this bower had been handsomely decorated with
wild flowers, conspicuous among which were the wild roses
that abound along the shores of this lake. When the first
couple reached this spot they halted, the lady dropped the
arm of her escort and passed to the right, the gentleman
passing to the left; then each faced about towards the
landing-place, thus making room for the others who formed
under the beautiful arch. The bride and groom were the
third couple to take theit place in nature's bower, and
when they had faced towards the lake there were now s^^en
standing to the right of the bride three fair ladies, while

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OJi, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

the groom was supported on his left by the same number
of gentlemen. The invited guests now faced the bride
and groom. At this moment there appeared before them
an old gentleman wearing the official robes of an Epis-
copal clergyman, holding in his hand a book. The cere-
mony is quickly performed, congratulations are in order;
many voices are heard on every side, but there was no
formal wedding reception. Baskets are brought forward, —
their contents quickly arranged on the linen which had
been spread for this p'<rpose on the green moss, and all
this joyous party nov> partake of the refreshments, giving
to the assemblage the appearance of a grand picnic in
nature's grandest forest. All things must end, and so did
this grand festival. Night was approaching, and the in-
vited guests must return ; but we must look a little further
after the newly-wedded couple. Before the steamer took
her departure from the island the deck-hands had been
observed to bring on shore a beautiful Peterborough
canoe, and others soon followed who carried two leather
valises, two camp-stools, and several bundles. All these
Various articles had been temporarily deposited on the rock
near the water s edge.

The remnants of the refreshments having been gath-
ered up and replaced in the baskets, a rarty of men are
seen to go down to the canoe, seize hold of the bundles,
valises, camp-stools, etc., and bring them forward to the
arch, beneath which was quickly erected a new, beautiful,
and commodious tent. A balsam bed was quickly made
v;ithin it, and the other household goods properly ar-
ranged. The invited guesu soon take their leave of the

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE.

i I

newly-wedded pair ; the steamer takes its departure from
the rock, where it had remained in waiting for the pas-
sengers. The bride and groom have come to the water's
edge to receive the parting sakites of their friends ; the
row-boats, canoes, and the dug-out have all withdrawn
from the island, and the wedded pair have retired from
the lake-shore to the bridal bower, where they remained
the sole occupants of this island for about forty-eight
hours. They then started on an extended and novel
wedding-tour, which lasted some six weeks, during which
period they travelled more than one thousand miles on
these mountain lakes. The Peterborough canoe, which
has already been mentioned, served as the vehicle for their
journeyings, and the handsome tent which was erected on
the island soon after the performance of the marriage cere-
mony was their bridal-chamber. They spent only a small
portion of their honeymoon on Lake Rosseau, but passed
from one mountain lake to another, the husband transport-
ing the canoe and other lUggage on the portages, while the
wife walked at his side, or more frequently followed behind
him in true Indian style. Thus they journeyed from lake
to lake, visiting the pioneer villages situated on these
beautiful bodies of water for the purpose of purchasing
such supplies as their frugal mode of life required. Here,
on the lakes of this wild mountain country, in the bright
summer months of June and July, they continued to bask
in sunshine and love, undisturbed by the rude and unsym-
pathetic crowds that are often met with on the ordinary
highways of travel.

We find it impossible, while contemplating the wander-

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A wedding in the wildernesj.

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rif£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

|i i

ings of the newly-wedded pair in this wild and romantic
region, to refrain from following with our imagination the
ancient Huron and his new-made wife. If we go back only
a few decades in the history of this country we find it in the
possession of a mighty tribe of Indians, — the Hurons, who
were ruthlessly destroyed by their implacable enemy, the
Iroquois.

However, if we believe the history which has been
transmitted to us, we find very little in the relation of these
scenes that would be pleasing to the reader in this con-
nection. " Female life among the Hurons had no bright
side. It was a youth of license, an age of drudgery." It
must, therefore, be apparent to any one that a comparison
here would be odious, and consequently we will now bid
adieu to the newly-wedded pair. In the contemplation of
that which we have written on this subject, the inquiry forces
itself upon us, Why have the names of these interesting
persons been omitted while other details have been given ?
In reply to this inquiry the author would say that it was
the father of the groom who gave him most of the points
that have been here interwoven in this narrative, and there-
fore he withholds the names by request of his informant.
Furthermore, it will be observed that this story, involving a
marriage and a wedding-tour, is only a wild flower, plucked
from our pathway through the wilderness, presented to the
reader for momentary gratification ; but it forms no es-
sential part of the general character of this book. Pardon,
therefore, our digression, and go with us to the Mountain
House in the village of Rosseau, where we arrived about
six o'clock on the evening of the 2 2d of September.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

It was in the office of this hotel that I first observed
Mr. Struce, of Brooklyn, New York, whom I recognized
as a sportsman by his dress, and the fact that he was car-
rying a gun. This gentleman afterwards became a mem-
ber of our party, and remained with us a few days while
we were encamped on Lake Ahmic, near Maganetawan
village. The hotel at which we were stopping, now the
only one at this point, was the resort of all the loungers
of the village as well as travellers.

The evening meal was served in the dining-room soon
after our arrival, and there seemed to be about thirty
guests in the hotel.

Experience had already taught me that it is very diffi-
cult to advance from this point into the forest if you are
burdened with more than ten or twelve pounds of lug-
gage, and consequently at an early hour in the evening I
began to make inquiry in regard to a conveyance to take
us to Maganetawan village, situated about thirty-seven
miles from this place.

I learned at the hotel-office that a stage, now owned
and driven by a Mr. Bess, would leave for Maganetawan
the next morning, arriving at its destination some time in
the evening of the same day. The proprietor of this line
was soon pointed out to me, and in answer to my question,
" Can you take us to Maganetawan to-morrow ?" he in-
quired, " How much baggage have you ?" I informed him
that we had about one hundred and fifty pounds. He
immediately replied, " I cannot take your baggage to-mor-
row ; but I can take you and your companion, and will
deliver your baggage for you at Maganetawan village

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>■-■■•. S _!_

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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111 )(

I '5

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within one week, at an extra charge of six dollars." The
regulai stage fare for a passenger between these points is
a dollar and fifty cents, while for four times that amount
the accommodating stage-owner was willing to transport
for us, provided we allowed him one week in which to do
the work, one hundred and fifty pounds of baggage. I
urged this stage-driver very strongly to provide some
means by which our baggage would reach Maganetawan
the next day ; was willing to give him the additional six
dollars, but he positively refused. In fact, he showed no
disposition to aid us in our efforts, and said that he already
had as many passengers, who had engaged seats in his
stage, as he could conveniently carry. This disinclination
to accommodate travellers seemed to me very strange and
entirely incomprenensible ; but a subsequent investigation
supplied me with a partial explanation. This man, Bess,
through political influence, had secured the contract to
carr}' the mail on that line, but inasmuch as he was en-
tirely wanting in enterprise, he had neglected to provide
for the accommodation of the travelling public. The ex-
planation of how he could afford to carry passengers over
the line for one dollar and fifty cents, while he demanded
four times as much for transporting the same weight in
baggage, is possibly found m the fact that the accommo-
dations for passengers within his stage are so bad that all
passengers are compelled, in self-interest, to walk at least
three-fourths of the whole distance. It will, therefore, be
observed that the one dollar and fifty cents paid by a
passenger really entitles him to ride only about nine miles
on the Queen's highway in Bess's stage. This stage was

mmm

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OJi, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

owned and managed, in the autumn of 1880, by a good-
natured and accommodating German, familiarly called
" Chris," of whom I shall have something to say hereafter.
My attempt to negotiate for the transportation of my
party and our luggage with Mr. Bess ended in a failure.
Further inquiry at the hotel-office afforded nothing satis-
factory. It is true I learned that there was no one living
in the village, owning horses, who would be willing to take
us to our destination. This was not in the least encour-
3gir»g' I was determined, however, to go forward on the
following day if it were possible. I made inquiry in re-
gard to the feasibility of obtaining a team or transportation
from some farmer living in the vicinity. The first objection
made to this plan by the bystanders was, ** You will find
it impossible to get a messenger to go into the country
among the farmers to-night; it is too late," although it
was not yet ten o'clock. I had already been more than
two hours engaged in my efforts to secure transportation,
but without success. At this moment I discovered Chris,
and immediately approached him, when he extended his
hand and asked if I was out on another hunting expedi-
tion. I answered in the affirmative, and then made known
to him my pressing wants. He said, " I am here with my
old team, but my wagon is already loaded with merchan-
dise for Maganetawan, some portions of which is in urgent
demand." I saw that here was my only chance. Chris
would like very much to oblige me ; it was not easy for
him to say " no." He told me that within a few weeks he
had been very unfortunate, — his dwelling-house had been
burned, with all his household furniture ; that a portion of

; 111

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

Bit

1^^: :;

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the load on his wagon at the present time was window-
glass intended for the new domicile that he was now
erecting. I inquired, "What will you charge to take us
with our luggage to Maganetawan to-morrow ?" He re-
plied, " It is worth about six dollars, but I don't think I can
do it to-morrow." I observed that his manner was some-
what hesitating. Chris was not entirely satisfied with him-
self and his answer. I said to him, "Chris, remove your
load and take us to Maganetawan to-morrow, and I will give
you twelve dollars for the job." A smile came over his
face ; it was evident that I had won. In a few moments
he said, " The load shall come off my wagon and you shall
be in Maganetawan to-morrow night. What hour do you
wish to start?" I said, "You may suit yourself in that
matter." He replied, "All right; let us get away from
here very early. I will call you at four o'clock."

It was about fifteen minutes after four when Chris
knocked at my door the next morning. I was then already
dressed, and so was the photographer, who had occupied
the room with me during the night. We followed Chris
down-stairs and there found Mr. Struce, who was at this
moment standing with his gun in hand ready to accompany
us. We had not yet spoken together; he had learned
that Chris was engaged to take myself and the artist to
Maganetawan, and had determined to accompany us. He
had already made an arrangement with Chris, and was
now ready to start, instead of waiting for the Bess stage
until a late hour. He greeted us pleasantly when we came
into his presence that morning, saying, "Good-morning,
gentlemen. I have determined to travel with you to-day,

|i:fl

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

XOI

unless you have some objection." I promptly assured
him that we should be very happy to have his company,
especially as I recognized him as a brother sportsman.
Here began a very pleasant acquaintance.

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I02

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

I'll.

ill

CHAPTER VI.

Our Departure from Rosseau— A Charming Mornincj and a Healthful
Walk — Camped near Spence — Incidents which occurred there — Joined
BY our Guides — Campkd on Birch Island— Camp-Life on Ahmic Lake —
Struce starts for Home — The Balance of the Party off on a Long
Tramp- -The Beaver's Trysting-Places — The Photographer's Sport near
Burk's Falls— Plodding through Woods after Dark — Thb Youthful
Driver — Arrival at Sphvnx Shoot.

\\'.\ ii

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^T was nearly five o'clock on the morning of
»3d of September when our party took
departure from Rosseau. The dark-
5s of night still enshrouded the earth ;
the air was cold and chilly, while the
ground was covered with a heavy
frost. Chris's old gray horses, which
are now at least twenty-one years of
age, moved forward just as well as
they did four years ago when I rode behind them over the
same route. The morning is so chilly that Chris, Struce,
and Mildenberger prefer to walk rather than ride in this
wagon, which is not supplied with springs, over the rocky
mountain road. I have, therefore, at the request of Chris,
mounted the driver's seat, wrapped myself in the horse-
blankets, seized the reins and whip, and am thus duly in-
stalled in this new position.

The photographer and Mr. Struce very soon disap-
peared in the darkness after leaving the hotel, but Chris

1:H:;1;

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

lO'

remained near the team to give me such instruction as was.
needed to pass the team safely over this road. The cold
was so severe and the road so rough that, having ridden
about three miles, I called on Chris to resume the charge
of his team, while I was now ready to follow the example
of my companion?. The gray dawn of the morning had
made its appeararce in place of the dim starlight that pre-
vailed at the time we started from Rosseau. Having
transferred the r-iins to Chris I descended from the driver's
seat, passed to die front of the team, and started forward
at a lively pace, determined to quickly overtake Struce and
Mildenberger.

It was probably about half an hour before I caught
sight of my companions, who were still about a mile ahead
of me, and moving forward at good speed, while the sun
was now shining brightly, lighting up the hill-tops, causing
the frozen drops of water, which were clinging to the
branches of leafless trees, to sparkle with the resplendent
beauty of pure diamonds in a bright gas-light. The
grandeur of this scene afforded me the purest joy. I
inhaled this mountain air — loaded with ozone — as the
hungry man partakes of the choicest viands. The rapid
step at which I was moving forward caused me to expel,
in the first part of my journey, the old residuary air with
which the lungs of every sedentary person are more or less
filledy thereby enabling me to seize and appropriate a very
large quantity of this grand atmospheric stimulant, which
now caused the blood to course rapidly through every part of
the body, producing a joyous thrill ir every fibre.

In this mental and physical condition it was a pleasure

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TJIK SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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II 'I

to move rapidly forward. The reader will not, therefore,
be surprised when informed that I soon found myself in
the company of my com(>anions, who had taken the lead
immediately after our departure from the hotel at Rosseau.
We now journeyed on together, and reached the "Ten-
Mile Lake Hotel" before eight o'clock. Here we ordered
breakfast, which was to be served as soon as Chris should
arrive with his team and our baggage. My companions
had walked this morning, without food or stimulants, ex-
cept that supplied by an invigorating atmosphere, ten
miles. I had walked seven and did not feel fatigued. It
was more than an hour after our arrival here before
Chris came up with his team.

The long journey had fully prepared us to enjoy the
breakfast, which consisted, principally, of delicious venison,
pure country butter, home-made bread, coffee, and wild
honey. I am sure that our entire party, this morning,
thought our breakfast good enough for a king.

Every article of food placed before us was of excellent
quality, and the serving could not have been improved.
We complimented the hostess on her excellent table ; she
thanked us kindly, and, having probably learned that we
hailed from the United States, then inquired if any one in
our party was acquainted in New Hampshire, which, she
now informed us, was her native place. We were com-
pelled to answer her inquiry in the negative, but she now
volunteered the information that she had only lived in
Canada since her marriage.

We had already spent at this wayside hotel more than
two hours ; the sun was still shining brightly, but it was

'Mt

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA.

105

necessary for us to go forward in ortl(;r that we might
reach the end of our journey this day before nightfall.
We were now about twenty-seven miles from Maganet-
awan, and nearly twenty-one from Spence, the home of
Captain George Ross, whom I had engaged as our chief
guide. It is not yet certain whether we shall remain to-
night at Spence or go on to Maganetawan, inasmuch as I
have not consulted with the captain in regard to our future
movements. The team plodded steadily along the moun-
tain-road to-day. Neither Mr. Struce nor Mildenberger
have ridden in the wagon. They started on foot and so
continue to journey on.

It was about three o'clock when we arrived at Spence,
a small hamlet, consisting of a wayside hotel, post-office,
and about half a dozen log cabins. We halted at the hotel
for our dinner, while Chris took this opportunity to {qq(\ his
team. Immediately after our arrival I succeeded in finding
a messenger, whom I sent to Captain Ross's residence,
which is situated about one-half mile from the hotel, wiin
instructions to bring him to me. The messenger returned,
after an absence of about forty minutes, accompanied by a
young man, who informed me that the captain was away
from home, engaged in a deer-hunt, but would certainly
return within a few hours, as he was expecting the arrival
of my party on the following day. After a brief con-
sultation with the young man, who informed me that
he was now staying at the captain's house, and had re-
ceived instructions prior to the captain's departure that
should we arrive during his absence he — the young man
— was to make us comfortable, I determined to halt at

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this place, or near it, and await the return of our guide.
The dinner being finished we again started forward, after
having spent about an hour and a liaif at the hotc!. We
camped this night in tiie woods near the roadside, about
one mile from the hotel at Spence where we had dined, and
about five miles from the village of Maganetawan, while
our tent was now standing within forty rods of Ahmic Lake.

The young man who has already been mentioned as
having reported to me on the return of the messenger
whom I had sent for the captain, after my arrival at Spence,
was now with us. He had brought with him from the cap-
tain's cabin an axe, which is so necessary in a hunters
camp. Five minutes after our arrival on the ground where
we had determined to camp, it was plainly evident to me
that my new-made friend was not a novice at this sort of
work. He knew exactly what was necessary to be done,
and was not slow in giving assistance. It required but a
few minutes to erect our tent and make all the needed
preparations for the night ; but this had scarcely been com-
pleted when the rain commenced to fall, although the sky
had been cloudless when we arrived at the hotel in Spence.
The young man proposed to bring us our suppers from the
captain's cabin, but this was deemed unnecessary by the
whole party, inasmuch as we had partaken of our dinner at
a late hour.

The first night under the canvas was spent very com-
fortably, while a bright fire burned in front of our open tent
until long after midnight. Notwithstanding the fact that a
heavy rain-storm had set in, we remained perfectly dry and
serenely happy.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

107

September 24. — The rain is still falling. The young
man who was instructed by the captain to look after us
during his absence was in camp with our breakfast soon
after seven o'clock this morning. He came provided with
the necessary cooking utensils to serve it hot. Having
completed our breakfast, the photographer took up my Bal-
lard rifle and asked the young man to accompany him to
the lake. He had not been absent from the tent five min-
utes when I heard the report of the gun ; other shots fol-
lov/ed this ; seven had soon been fired. There was a lapse
of probably about three minutes after the last report was
heard when Mildenberger made his appearance before the
tent asking for a shot-gun, saying at the same time, excitedly y
" / have just fired five shots at a partridge sitting on a tree,
and the youn^ man has fired two ; the bird has not moved,
and 1 don't believe she knows that she is wanted!' It has
previously been mentioned that Mildenberger had served
in the artillery with the German army during the Franco-
Prussian war, but these shots failed to convince us that he
was skilled in the use of the rifle. In fact, other observa-
tions forced the conclusion that he had not, prior to this,
been accustomed to the use of even a shot-gun. He
proved, however, to be a very apt scholar in these matters,
and before he left the woods he was quite an expert in the
use of both the shot-gun and rifle. I saw him with the
shot-gun handsomely drop birds on the wing, while with the
rifle he could occasionally knock off a partridge's head with-
out injuring its body. At the particular time when he
required a shot-gun to compel the partridge to recognize
that she was wanted, the bird — it is thought — became im-

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE.

patient, since Mildenberger has not yet succeeded in finding
her, although he has made long and diligent search.

The phrase, "I don't beUeve she knows that she is
wanted," became one of very common use in our party,
and was applied on all occasions when the ^ame remained
jninjured after a shot was fired.

The rain continued to fall until about ten o'clock, when
the clouds showed some signs of breaking, and the sim
occasionally peeped out through an open space, although
there was very little clear sky visible during the day.
Struce and Mildenberger succeeded in taking some fine
bass in Ahmic Lake during the afternoon. I took a stroll
through the wood, accompanied by twc cocker-spaniels,
which are to take part with us in this campaign. I was not
fortunate in finding game: saw only a single bird.

Captain Ross and his nephew made their appearance
in our camp before sunset. The captain greeted me
pleasantly. We had not met during the preceding four
years, and as he now stood before me he appeared the
same as when I parted with him at Spence, in the autumn
of 1880, after we had finished that hunt.

He now introduced us to his nephew, George Ross, and
informed me that he had engaged this man to accompany
us as a guide. Struce and Mildenberger were made ac-
quainted with these men who were to become members of
our party. It had also been previously agreed between
Struce and myself that an additional guide would be at
least desirable as long as Mr. Struce remained in our party.
I therefore made inquiry of the captain about his brother,
Wellington, with whom I was somewhat acquainted, know-

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" I don't believe she knows ihat she is wanted."

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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ing that no better guide could be found in the region of
Maganetawan. He replied, " I think Wellington will be
able to be with us after a few days."

The captain, with the assistance of his nephew, made
all the necessary arrangements for the night. Wood was
provided, supper prepared, and the captain's tent put up.
In the mean time it has been arranged that a deer-hunt
shall take place to-morrow on Ahmic Lake. The guides
will now remain constantly with us in camp ; this will be a
marked improvement, and will add much to our happiness
and comfort.

The party, as now arranged, consists of five persons,
and we are provided with five dogs, — two of them intended
to be employed in deer-hunting, while three are cocker-
spaniels, used only in bird-she oting. The following morn-
ing the sport commenced at an early hour, and we were
back in our camp before eleven o'clock. Struce and my-
self, with the guides, had hunted deer, while Mildenberger
had started out in search of ruffed sfrouse.

The sport opened this morning fairly well. Struce shot
a fawn, Mildenberger killed four partridges, and I took
some bass while on the way tc the point, where I was
stationed by the captain to watch for deer.

A good dinner was served for us by our guides on our
return to camp. We had brought into camp some delica-
cies, and likewise tin plates, tin cups, etc. ; consequently
our table and culinary department were quickly placed on
a sound basis. The camp which we had formed by the
wayside, immediately after our arrival, was thought to be
no longer desirable, and consequently our guides moved

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

Ill

our quarters, on the afternoon of September 25, to Birch
Island, which is situated in Lake Ahmic.

The photographer was at the same time engaged in
taking some views on this lake, while I was absent search-
ing for ruffed grouse. We were joined in the evening by
Wellington Ross, who now becomes a member of our party.
The sport went on, from day to day, in about the same
manner as has been already detailed. The evenings ./ere
passed very pleasantly before the camp-fire ; the captain
and his brother, although very modest men, have had a
large experience in hunting and trapping, and they narrate
this experience in a quaint and quiet way, after we finally
succeed in getting them started.

Wellington has spent a few years on the Pacific coast,
and describes the game and the methods of hunting in that
region, as well as the nature of the country, the timber-
growths, etc. Our friend Struce, who classes himself
among the amateur sportsmen of the United States, has
certainly sufficient experience to enable him, in camp, to
add his full quota to the enjoyment of a party of hunters.
He tells a bear story well, although he does not even claim to
have hunted bruin. The captain has killed several bears,
but these animals with which he came in contact and
slaughtered were, apparently, very well behaved, and died
without making any unusual fuss about it.

Thus day after day was passed in hunting and fishing
and social inte'-course around the camp-fire ; but at last our
friend Struce decided that he could remain no longer with
us, and that the next day he must take his departure for
Brooklyn. It had been intended by the whole party that

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our photographer should take a camp picture prior to this
separation. That design, however, was frustrated by a
pouring rain that continued during the whole day prior to
his departure, September 29. This morning was clear and
bright. We were up and stirring before it was fairly light.
Having breakfasted. Captain Ross and Struce started for
Spence, where the latter expected to meet the stage from
Maganetawan, which was to take him to Rosseau on his
way home. The captain's deer-dogs have not been in
camp for the past twenty-four hours. I speak of the
captain's AQ.^x-dogs instead of employing the word hounds^
for the reason that there is not a drop of hound blood in
their veins. These dogs are really mongrels, although 1
presume the collie breed predominates. The collie breed
is highly praised by all the backwoodsmen with whom I
have come in contact in Canada. He is praised as a val-
uable house-dog, an excellent dog with cattle, and when
trained to run deer some claim to think him even superior
to the hound.

The captain's dogs were certainly very good animals.
When placed on a deer's track they seldom failed to run
him to water, but the one fault which I desire here to men-
tion with regard to this entire breed of dogs is, that when
used in hunting deer they give very little " tongue." This
one defect in the dog deprives the sportsman of the ex-
citement and pleasure which he would otherwise feel in
listening to the voice of the running hound. To my ear
there are few sounds more charming. I listen eagerly to
this music in order to determine the approach of the deer,
and the hound's loud voice on a cool, frosty morning,

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

1^3

although it may be only faintly heard, serves to make the
blood course more rapidly through my veins, while at the
same time it cheers my spirits and warms my body. Give
me, therefore, the musical hound in deer-hunting, instead
of the best collie ever imported from old Scotland.

The captain has gone in search of his pets. Wellington
and George Ross are packing the camp equipage this
morning, that we may be off for Burk's Falls. An ac-
quaintance of the guides, whom they address as " Isaacs,"
has made his appearance in our camp. He is out search-
ing for a lost dog. He is urged by the guides to take a
hand in our moving, and finally consents. Therefore a por-
tion of luggage was placed in his bateau for transportation
to Maganetawan, which we reached about half-past nine
o'clock, having travelled this morning in our canoe about
three miles.

These canoes and our luggage were placed on the little
river steamer " Pioneer," which is to take us up the Maga-
netawan River to Burk's Falls, distant from this village
about thirty-five miles.

The captain made his appeaiance soon after our lug-
gage had been loaded on the little steamer, but he had not
succeeded in finding his lost dogs. He is, therefore, com-
pelled to remain behind and make further search for the
animals, which are indispensable in hunting deer at this
season of the year, when the trees are still covered with
leaves. The loss of deer-hounds or other dogs that are
employed in deer-hunting is not an infrequent occurrence,
and commonly happens by the dogs continuing to follow a

deer to some distant lake. The reader will readily per-

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

ceive by what has already been said that the deer does not
always come to the exact spot at which the sportsman is
stationed, or even to the lake at which he is wanted.

Few dogs possess sufficient sagacity to return on
their own trail and thus reach their master. I have seen
only a single animal that would uniformly follow out this
course. That dog, an animal called " Fan," was the prop-
erty of Dr. Pokorney, and has already been described in
this book.

When the captain reached us, he soon learned that
his brother had gone to his house in the village of Maga-
netawan, and he promptly started to find him, in order that
Wellington might accompany us in his (the captain's)
place. This arrangement may last only a few days, or it
may be a week before the captain's search will be rewarded
b" finding his lost pets. We left Maganetawan about
eleven o'clock in the morning, and reached Burk's Falls
before four o'clock p.m.

The scenery along this river is certainly very pictur-
esque. The banks are covered with heavy forest-trees,
and there are aquatic plants and bushes growing in the
shallow water along the shore. The amount of clearing
along the banks of this river, seen from the decks of our
litde steamer, was very limited in the autumn of 1884.
Captain Ross, when descending the Maganetawan in com-
pany with the author, in 1880, pointed out to us the very
spot where several years ago he saw his first moose. He
gave us a clear description of the animal, and did not seem
well pleased with himself because he had failed to kill the
monster with a single charge of buckshot, which he gave

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

115

him with his compliments, this being the best he could do
under the circumstances.

It was during this same trip down the river that the
captain gready interested me by the description which he
gave of the beaver " trysting-places." The captain is cer-
tainly a matter-of-fact man, possessed of no romantic ideas,
and yet the statements which he made on this occasion
may seem to savor strongly of fiction, akliough I am fully
convinced that he believes in the beaver " trysting-place,"
and in all the details that he has given pertaining to the
same, including even the acting of the animals. The nar-
rator commenced by saying that many years ago, while
travelling through these woods, he discovered a mound
that had been recendy raised by the heaping up of the
soft earth, the measurements of the same being about two
feet in diameter and about six inches in height, while it was
almost circular in outline. This mound bore the positive
impress of the animal by which it had been reared, and
this serves as the beaver's " trysting-place."

In order that we might understand the nature and
necessity of the trysting-places, the captain made the fol-
lowing statement : " It is chiefly in winter that the beavers
congregate, and then only a single family occupies the
same lodge or house, although there may be several fami-
lies living within the waters raised by the dam that has
been erected by their united efforts. The family may
consist of a single adult, male and female, or they may
have with them two, four, six, or eight of their own off-
spring, which have not yet fully matured. When, however,
these young beavers are fully grown, they go forth from

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the parental roof in search of a partner, with the inten-
tion of establishing a new home. It also frequently hap-
pens that the family circle has been impaired through the
agency of the hunter or trapper, — that the father or mother
has been trapped or killed. Under these circumstances
the survivor takes upon himself, or herself, the entire
charge of the family. Sooner or later, however, the young
will mature and go forth in search of mates, while the adult
must again start oa this journey. It is a well-recognized
fact that single beavers are sometimes found which live
apart from all others of their species. There are wan-
derers which, during the summer months, are travelling
about, bent on the accomplishment of the object of their
lives, — impelled by a God-given power, — seeking a coni-
panion in order to make a home and rear a family.
Furthermore, they are strictly monogamic in their habits,
and while the first partner survives none other is per-
mitted to enter the family circle. It is," said the cap-
tain, " for the accomplishment of this object that the
mounds are erected by the lonely traveller ; and it is on
these mounds that they declare to the opposite sex their
desire to effect a union by depositing here a small quan-
tity of castoreum, which is generated in two glandular
pouches situated near the organs of reproduction, and
the odor of which sufficiently differs in the sexes to be
instantly recognized by these keen-scented animals at long
distances. Therefore the wanderer, without regard to sex,
is enabled to raise a mound, deposit thereon the lover's
proclamation, which will be scented and understood of the
opposite sex within a large radius, while the suitor, seeking

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OH, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

117

companionship, lingers near the ' trysting-place' until the
inamorata approaches in answer to the call."

If the captain is correct in the opinion which he has
expressed on this subject, may we not fnd in his theory a
full explanation of the fact that the castoreum, which trap-
pers have lon^ been accustomed to employ as a bait on the
trap to lure the poor beaver to death, depends solely on
this magical power?

I am aware of the fact that the mounds mentioned by
Captain Ross have not been generally recognized by our
backwoodsmen, but this does not materially impair the
force of his statement. The captain does not claim tliat
they are very numerous, but says that he has seen several
such mounds in the Canadian wilderness.

Immediately after the arrival of the steamer at Burk's
Falls my party proceeded to ni^V^e such purchases as were
thought necessary. A store of provisions was laid in
sufficient to last the party eight weeks, with such addi-
tions as were expected to be obtained by the use of the
rod and gun. These purchases were made with very little
loss of time.

We now hired of the merchant from whom we pur-
chased our supplies a horse and wagon to take our canoes
and other luggage up the north branch of the Maganetawan
River, to a point just above Sphynx Falls. This portage
was made necessary by the fact that the river was filled
with mill-logs up to the falls mentioned, and, consequently,
could not be traversed by our canoes. It may be well to
state in passing that Burk's Falls probably possesses more
than ordinary attractions for business men and others

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seeking new homes in this region. It is the natural ter-
minus of steamboat navigation on the Maganetawan River,
and there is at this point a very great amount of water-
power which may be easily made available for manufac-
turing purposes. In addition to all this, the country about
here is heavily timbered, and the river enables the lumber-
man to bring the logs here more cheaply than they can be
delivered at any other point where they would possess
the same value. In other words, nature pomts to this spot
as the most desirable one in this entire district for the con-
version of raw material into manufactured products.

It was about five o'clock when the wagon, loaded with
our canoes and other luggage, was ready to start from
Burk's Falls for Sphynx Shoot, which is distant from the
former place about three miles. The driver of the wagon,
a boy about twelve. years of age, had stood patiently by
the horse watching the guides while they loaded our bag-
gage. The moment this work was completed he mounted
the wagon, found a seat on some of our luggage, and
began to irge his horse forward. The horse was not
much you.i^er than the boy, but both performed their share
of the work satisfactorily, while at the start Wellington
and George Ross followed the wagon closely to prevent
damage being done to our luggage. The country through
which this rough road passes is made up of rocky hills and
low marshy ground, but at this time, owing to the fact that
it was unusually dry, we were enabled to traverse it quite
satisfactorily until the darkness of night began to gather
about us.

Mr. Mildenberger, the photographer, had started out

OR, r//E LAKE L^NDS OF CAiVADA.

119

slightly In advance of the wagon, accompanied by " Ponto,"
in search of ruffed grouse. He had not been out ten
minutes when the barking of " Ponto" was heard, and
within the next five minutes lie had fired two shots. A f''^
minutes later he returned to the road with '• Ponto" at liL
heels. The author wai walking some distance in advance
of the wagon which was loaded with our baggage, and was
therefore, at this moment, in full view of our amateur
sportsman, who drew proudly from his pockets two fine
birds which he had just shot, having killed them with the
shot-gun., since he had not become sufficiently expert in the
use of the rifle to be able to convince a ruffed grouse that
he " was wanted" when the gun was fired.

The photographer now sent " Ponto" once more into
the woods. Soon after a loud and lively barking was
heard, and our amateur sportsman was again quickly lost
to our sight; had gone again into the dense woods that
form the boundary on either side of the rough country
road throughout the greater part of the whole distance
between Burk's Falls and Pickerel Lake. The sound of
his gun >vas again heard ; the dog soon after this rushed
once more across our front, but quickly returned to a spot
not far distant from where the last shot was fired. In a
few moments the sound of another slwt resounded
throughout the forest ; the photographer is already flushed
with victory. Shot after shot is heard. Darkness was ap-
proaching and he was soon compelled to return from the
woods, because it was so dark that he could no longer see
the game ; but he was not satisfied, although he had killed
six beautiful birds in somewhat less than an hour. He

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

complained that darkness had so soon cut short his
sport.

He was now compelled to walk in the centre of the road,
by the side of the author. Onward they trudged while the
twilight was rapidly disappearing. The rumbling sounds
of the wagon were occasionally heard in our rear, while the
guides were aiding our youthful driver. The stars had be-
come visible, but the moon had not condescended to make
her appearance.

Large trees stood in close proximity to the wagon-path.
Some had fallen across it. The woodman's axe had in
some cases cut its way through the trunk of the fallen
giant of the forest, while the hardy son of toil had rolled
the obstruction to one side to allow a vehicle to pass. In
other instances the fallen trunk, being somewhat smaller,
had not been removed, and the driver was compelled to
pass over it, or if the condition of the ground at this point
was favorable, a road would be made around the obstruc-
tion, while in those cases where a tree had fallen since the
last vehicle had passed, the driver was left to solve the
question in accordance v/ith his own judgment.

Another troublesome condition arose from the frequent
intersection of this road by the so-called "log roads," —
roads cut for the purpose of removing the white pine mill-
logs which had been recently cut in this section. These
roads resembled greatly the one on which we were now
travelling, and consequently, in the existing darkness, we
found ourselves wandering off into these by-roads. In
order to avoid as far as possible this annoyance, the photog-
rapher, George Ross, and myself kept in advance, lighting

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

121

our way as well as we could with matches, moving along
cautiously, with one or both hands extended before our
eyes when left in total darkness. In spite of these pre-
cautions we strayed frequently from the proper road off
on these by-roads, often calling to each other in order to
prevent too great separation. In the mean while Welling-
ton remained b)' the wagon to assist our youthful driver.

Nearly two nours had been spent in this toilsome man-
ner when a shout from the photographer announced the
glad tidings that he had found a log cabin that was in-
habited. He called loudly to me ; I shouted back to him,
having strayed off on a log road about one -fourth of a
mile from the road leading to Pickerel Lake (the road tha<:
we wished to follow), but failed to make myself heard by
Mr. Mildenberger, although I heard him. He had learned
at the cabin that we were just above Sphynx Shoot, or
Falls, and that the river was only a few rods from the cabin
and to the right of the road.

The photographer was now joyful ; he rushed into the
woods in search of the author, shouting at the top of his
voice, " This way ! This way !" I soon succeeded in mak-
ing him understand, and then shouted back to him, " Stand
where you are !" He did not obey the injunction, but con-
tinued to advance towards me. We were soon so near
each other as to be able to speak in an ordinary voice,
while at the same time we could easily understand each
other. We finally met, and he conducted me back to the
cabin. We found this surrounded by a few acres of newly-
cleared land, the clearing extending to the inver, and even
to the point above the falls that we desired to reach.

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Tff£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

The wagon, accompanied by Wellington, came up soon
after our return, but George Ross could be heard plunging
through the brush a few rods from the road. He, too, had,
like myself, strayed off on a wood road, but had heard the
photographer's shouts, and these guided his return. The
fence surrounding the clearing was opened so as to allow
our wagon to enter; we were bound to reacli the river to-
night. The horse and wagon passed cautiously over the
cleared fields, while Wellington held his p'^st on the right
of the wagon, and George had taken a po.^i ^.i on the left.

Our canoes and other luggage had reached the objec-
tive-point and were quickly taken from the wagon. The
boy driver had quietly unharnessed his horse and turned
him loose to graze in the field. The chief cultivated
articles now remaining ungathered in this clearing were
the turnips. I asked the boy how he was to get back to
Burk's Falls to-night. He replied, " I shan't try to get
back there to-night. Ise going to stay with you all." The
reply to the brave boy was, "That is right. We > "Ij give
you something to eat, and you can make a be< the

ground where we all sleep."

A large pfle of logs was found which had been heaped
up for burning when the ground was cleared ; but the fire
had failed to consume them, consequendy it was only ne-
cessary to rearrange them and apply the match. This was
done ; a grand illMmination followed, the field was lighted
around us, the silvery surface of the river v)as now visible ; a
good supper was quickly made ready, a rubber poncho was
spread on the ground and served as a table ; we ate, drank,
and were happy. When the meal was finiched we spread

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

123

our blankets on the ground, and with the starry canopy
above us were able to sleep soundly without canvas or any
other artificial shelter. ^

The boy remained with us, enjoying well the food, but
when our blankets were spread out he showed, by his
manner, a disinclination to camp in the open air, and soon
after said, " I think I will go to the cabin ; I have a cousin
there." He immediately started off, returning a little
after daylight the next morning. He breakfasted with us,
harnessed his horse, and was off at an early hour for
Burk's Falls.

When thinking of the boy's coolness and forethought, I
could not avoid comparing him with our city boys of the
same age, and the only comment which I will here make is,
that this youthful driver is now receiving an education that
prepares him thoroughly for a life in this wild country.

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TJIE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

CHAPTER VII.

% i I -.n

The Movements of our Hunting-Par :y— Crossing the Hor-ka-por-ka Port-
age — Fishing in Rock Lake — Anothkr Advance — Deer-Hunting, etc. —
The Journey from Trout Lake to Long Lake — Camp on Long Lake —
More Deer-Hunting — An Exciting Contest, in which the Photographer
Wins.

h}'<

ARLY in the morning of September 30
we were up and stirring. The daylight
had not yet made its appearance, but the
grand fire kindled last evening was still
burning brightly. There was a very heavy
frost last night, but we did not suffer from
the cold ; being wrapped in our blankets we
slept nicely. The breakfast was prepared
by our guides ; the photographer and myself had made our
morning toilets while standing on a rock that projected into
the river, having brought to this spot soap, towels, tooth-
brushes, hair-brushes, combs, etc. This labor was per-
formed in the gray dawn of the morning, and when com-
pleted we repaired to die breakfast, which had been spread
for us on the rubber poncho in the usual style.

The packing of our luggage followed our morning
meal. The canoes were placed in the water and loaded
ready for the start. It had been previously decided that
the photographer and myself should walk through the
woods to Pickerel Lake, while the guides paddled the
canoes up the river to the same point. The only diffi-

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

125

culty that we anticipated was that of following the stream
through the wilderness up to the lake. It is true that we
were provided with a compass, but this instrument pos-
sessed little value for us here, since there was some ques-
tion in regard to the direction we ought to take. The lake
was thought to be distant from Sphynx Falls about five
miles, and it was considered very desirable to reach it at an
early hour in the day, in order that we might cross over to
Mossup's Landing and make a start the same day on the
crossing of the Hor-ka-por-ka Portage. The guides be-
fore pushing the canoes from the shore that morning at
Spliynx Falls gave us such information as they possessed,
and when the good-by had been said they were off on the
water, ai.d we turned into the forest. We found some
ruffed grouse, but no other game during our morning
tramp.

We wandered about much in the wilderness, and visited
the river frequently to determine whether we were travel-
ling in the rig^^t direction. Thus vv-e were enabled ♦id de-
termine our course, and finally reached Harvey's Bridge,
near Pickerel Lake, about one o'clock p.m.

Few incidents occurred during this long walk, and none
of sufficient importance to be worthy of mention here.
The morning was bright and beautiful, but before noon
clouds had made their appearance and rain began to fall.
The rain, however, did not continue for more than two
hours, when the sun reappeared and filled our hearts with
joy. This walk had been through the woods, including
swamps and rocky hills, while our pathway was obstructed
with much fallen timber.

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T//E SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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We had expected to meet our guides at Harvey's
Bridge, where they had agreed to await our arrival, should
they reach that point in advance of us ; therefore their ab-
sence at the time of our arrival satisfied us that we were
in the advance. It was nearly an hour before they made
their appearance with the luggage and canoes. We im-
mediately took places in the bark canoes, and were pad-
dled over to Mossup's Landing, the southern extremity of
the Hor-ka-pc/-ka Portage, which connects Pickerel Lake
with Rock Lake ; points which are said to be distant from
each other only three miles, but I am sure that I walked
more than six miles the first time that I made the tour.

The portage crosses over the top of Ball Mountain,
and as you approach Rock Lake you are compelled to
traverse an alder swamp about one-half mile in width.
This portage has been greatly improved since I crossed for
the first time, in 1880. The underbrush has been cut out
and some of the more troublesome obstructions overcome,
or at least greatly lessened.

The southern end of this portage is now passable for
an ox-team with a jumper for a distance somewhat less
than a mile ; consequently we had hoped to find Mossup
able to give us a start on this part of our journey with his
oxen. In this matter, however, we were doomed to dis-
appointment, inasmuch as our friend was not provided with
the necessary vehicle. The luggage, including the canoes,
with which we were now burdened, it was thought would
weigh about one thousand pounds, — no unimportant impe-
dimenta ; and, consequently, the task of transporting all
this across the portage seemed formidable to us when we

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

127

learned from Mossup that he could not render assistance
with his team.

The guides had firmly counted on this aid, and for this
purpose sought out Mossup immediately after our arrival
at this end of the portage. I did not deem it wise to hesi-
tate, noi to attempt to transfer our luggage to Rock Lake
without additional assistance ; and therefore immediately
employed Mossup and his son to aid us in making the
transit. This question having been settled, we started off
with our packs, properly arranged, to travel as much of the
Hor-ka-por-ka Portage as we might before nightfall. The
guides selected a camping-ground about three-fourths of a
mile from Mossup's Landing, and made two trips over this
portion of the portage. The photographer and myself did
not return with them when they made the second trip, but
went in search of ruffed grouse, which were found in great
abundance around Mossup's small clearing. We spent a
pleasant night in camp, and were moving with the first
appearance of the gray day in the morning.

Having learned on the previous evening that there was
another settler in the vicinity of Mossup's who would prob-
ably be willing to assist us in portaging, I sent for him, and
he made his appearance in camp very soon after daylight,
joined us at cur breakfast, and tramped with us on the
trail. Our party now consisted of seven members, and it
was a pleasing sight, when standing on some high moun-
tain rock, to look down on these sturdy men who were toil-
ing patiently up the mountain-side. The author had started
out from camp in the morning burdened with two rifles,
three shot-guns, and a fishing-rod, while the photographer.

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128

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE.

who followed him, was carrying a much heavier load. The
guides were each supposed to carry a pack weighing about
one hundred pounds, and the settler, whom he had just
employed, about the same amount. The settler, Emerson,
who made his appearance this morning, is the largest man
in the party, and he seems to possess about as much
strength as an ordinary pack-mule. These backwoodsmen
are generally very strong men and thoroughly accustomed
to carrying heavy packs, while at the same time they are
satis^ad with a moderate compensation, one dollar being
the amount always demanded when meals are furnished to
the laborer.

The chief guide, however, does not rank as a laborer,
and he is commonly paid about two dollars and fifty cents
or three dollars per diem, furnishing the canoes and the
necessary dogs, but his assistants are paid one dollar a day.

It was now the first day of October ; the sky was clear
and the sun was shining brightly, while we toiled up the
side of Ball Mountain, with happy anticipations of grand
sport that would amply compensate us for all this toil. In
due time we reached the mountain-top, where a halt was
called, that we might view the surrounding country and
admire its strange beauty. The photographer here deter-
mined to take a view showing our party as we appeared at
this moment.

This illustration is intended to show the party as they
appeared when carrying their burdens on the Ho-ka-por-ka
Portage ; and, consequently, young Mossup is seen stand-
ing beneath the canoe, which is held in the same position as
it is carried, while Emerson is supporting on his shoulders

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TJIB SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

a sack of flour which weighed one hundred pounds. It
should now be understood that we have left civilization
behind us ; that our eyes are turned towards the grand
wilderness which we are about entering, and that within it
we are bound to remain six or eight weeks without seeing
a human habitation. The photographer has caught up this
view — this grand wilderness — and fixed it on paper, that I
may present it to the interested reader who has concluded
to follow us in our ramble, — to camp with us in the forest.

The author and the photographer reached Rock Lake
about eleven o'clock, closely followed by the guides and
their assistants ; but this was only their first trip, while one-
half of our luggage still remained on the top of the
mountain. Consequendy, after a brief rest, Wellington,
George, Emerson, and Mossup, Sr., returned to bring up
the balance. I retained young Mossup to paddle a canoe
for me while I fished in the lake.

The trout-fishing was grand, and I caught a fine lot of
these beauties, while the photographer was taking a view
of this lake and the guides and their assistants were bring-
ing down the balance of our iuggage.

We dined about two o'clock, on lake-trout, just taken
from the water. After dinner, Emerson, Mossup, and son
returned to their homes, while our party proceeded to cross
Rock Lake, which is connected by a half-mile portage with
Mud Lake. We reached the latter lake about four o'clock,
bui much of our luggage remained behind on Rock LF^ke
and must be brought over this half-mile portage before we
can proceed farther on our journey.

We succeeded in crossing Mud Lake, and camped on

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

131

the portage between the latter and Loon Lake. Mud Lake
is a small body of water, probably about half a mile in
leno-th, and the portage which connects this lake with Loon
Lake does not much exceed the same distance.

Captain George Ross, who had parted with us at the
village of Maganetawan to hunt up his dogs which had
strayed away, joined us this morning, October 2, in our
camp near Mud Lake, before we had breakfasted. He has
brought the dogs back with him, and we can now engage in
a deer-hunt whenever it is thought best. Still-hunting is
impracticable until the leaves have fallen, which has not yet
occurred, and consequently the dogs are required for the
purpose of enabling us to orovide for the wants of our
camp.

We broke camp at an early hour and started off for
Loon Lake, which was reached in aue time. This lake is
probably a litde more than two miles in length, and is
separated from Grass Lake by a narrow strip of land
which does not exceed more than eight rods in width ; con-
sequently the portage is traversed in a few moments.

The captain brought to our camp this morning another
canoe. We have with us at this dme three canoes. The
luggage was promptly carried over to Loon Lake this
morning, loaded into our canoes, in which we promptly
embarked, and were paddled by our guides up the lake to
the narrow neck of land, which has been previously men-
tioned ; crossed the same, and at once started forward on
the smooth water of Grass Lake. We encamped at one
o'clock on the west shore of this body of water, near its
northern extremity. The camp is situated in the woods,

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE.

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only a few rods from the water's edge, tluis affording a
very picturesque view of the lake and rising sun. It re-
quired only a few moments to erect our tent and make the
camp, and the next labor which followed was the prepara-
tion of the dinner. This was disposed of and a deer-hunt
promptly inaugurated by Wellington, who started into the
woods with the dogs about three o'clock in the afternoon.
The captain and Mildenberger watched the northern ex-
tremity of the lake while George and I went to the south-
ern part of the same. These points are separated by some-
thing more than one mile ; nevertheless we heard distincUy
the sound of Mildenberger's gun when ' ' shot the deer just
as it broke from cover and before it ent the water.

The author soon after this returned to camp, where he
found the happiest man on the American continent (at that
particular moment), an amateur sportsman, who had just
won his grandest triumph, — had killed larger game than can
now be found in any part of Germany. The ambitious
military officer zoho has just wo7i his Jirst grand victory could
7iot be happier.

The photographer in his childhood dreams had never
anticipated so grand a success as a sportsman. The deer
that he had just killed was not ruthlessly slaughtered in
the water, but was struck by the deadly missile while still in
the air, and only a few seconds after it broke cover.
- It is now fashionable for our sporting papers to con-
demn entirely the use of dogs in deer-hunting, not even
admitting that the question is one which might properly be
discussed ; thus certain harpists seek to become authorities
in all these matters.

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" He shot the deer just as it broke from cover."

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TIl£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

Every sportsman will cheerfi'lly admit that the taking
of game ought to be restricted within certain limits. What
are these limits? In order to speak intelligently on this
question it is very necessary that the speaker should be
familiar with the localities in which the game is found, the
various methods employed for its capture, the necessities
of the people inhabiting the game regions, and the condi-
tion of the game at the various seasons at which it is
hunted. In those localities where the game is already very
scarce it may be nighly important for the sportsman and
other interested parties to limit, or even entirely stop, the
destruction for certain periods.

Although the interests of the sportsman are commonly
identical with those of the inhabitants residing in game
countries, nevertheless the necessities of the latter may be
such as to know no bounds. In the district of Muskoka,
Canada, it is safe to assert that fifty deer are killed by the
still-hunters where one is killed after having been run by
dogs, either on the run-ways or in the water. The deer
killed on the run-ways and in the water are usually con-
sumed in the sportsman's camp, and if the price of this
venison were determined by the money outlay made by
this class of men while seeking the game, it would probably
vary from twenty-five cents to one dollar per pound.

The deer killed by the still-hunter in this region is
generally consumed in the lumber camps, where it is sold
for four or five cents per pound.

The g«'eat body of the sportsmen entering the district
of Muskoka are residents of the United States, and would
not remain in this climate during the cold months of au-

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

135

tumn and wiriLer, when still-hunting can be advantageously
practised; while the venison is in better condition during
September than in any other month of the year. Further-
more, the music of the hounds when running deer gives
an additional pleasure to the sportsman. In this section of
country, were it possible to prevent the sale of venison in
lumber camps, the deer, which are now very abundant, would
soon become more numerous than sheep have ever been
on the hills of Vermont, even though the pioneer hunters
are permitted to kill deer at will, and the true sportsman
allowed to continue to hound the game.

It has not been my intention to discuss thoroughly the
question that I raised ; this would require more time and
space than I can give to the consideration of the subject ;
but I desired rather to direct the reader's attention to it,
hoping thereby to arouse thought on this and other kin-
dred topics.

We continued the deer-hunt on October 3, notwith-
standing a drizzling rain, which continued to fall during the
most of the day. This day there were two deer killed,
although I find that nothing happened of any particular
interest or worthy of notice here. The following day
Wellington Ross, who had been with us almost constandy
since our arrival in the district of Muskoka, took his de-
parture for home. He had shared with us the pleasures
of the hunt and served us faithfully as a guide. The other
members of the party engaged during the forenoon in an
unsuccessful deer-hunt. The afternoon was spent by the
photographer and George in making negatives about the
lake, while the captain went with me in search of ruffed

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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grouse, in which we were, however, unsuccessful, ruffed
grouse not being as abundant here as they were about
Mossup's and Rock Lake. During our stay on these lakes
we discovered a beaver-house which was at this time occu-
pied by a family of beavers. I spent a part of one evening
with the captain watching for this interesting family, the
members of which never, or at least very rarely, make their
appearance in the waters about their house much before
sunset. We arrived on the water in proximity to this
dwelling at the proper time, but failed to see the beaver,
although the captain says the acute animal saw us. The
statement was based on the fact that we heard a sound
which the captain recognized as the beaver's alarm-signal,
which is followed by the rapid disappearance of the master
of ceremonies, who neither reappears nor permits any of
the members to show themselves for several hours after
the alarm has been sounded. We remained here, keeping
perfectly quiet for about an hour, but heard nothing more.

It was after dark when we reached the camp, but we
were informed on our return that a flock of wild geese had
passed over it, going southward. The sight of the geese
so affected George Ross that he caught up his Winchester
rifle and sent several bullets after them, although the pho-
tographer thinks that their flying was not in any manner
inconvenienced by the shooting of our guide.

The afternoon of the 5th of October was spent in
making preparations for our departure on the morning of
the 6th for Long Lake. We had killed more deer while
in this camp than we had consumed. The captain placed
>yne-half of the largest deer that we had killed in his canoe

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

and carried it to a poor widow who lived several miles
from the camp. He also sent for other setders, who ap-
peared and carried away all our surplus game. Conse-
quendy, on the morning of the 6th, we were ready to
strike our tents and move forward to new fields of sport.

There had been a thunder-storm during the night
prior to our departure, but the morning was clear, with a
strong breeze. We broke camp about 8.20 a.m. and went
to the head of Grass Lake, en route for Long Lake, reach-
ing the latter point at one o'clock, having crossed three
small lakes and four short portages. We dined at the
foot of this lake, and after dinner paddled up to the head
of the same, where we encamped. Our camp is very
pleasanriy situated in a dense forest, but also quite near
the lake-shore. During the afternoon the captain and
myself toik a stroll about a beaver-dam at the head of
the lake in search of beaver. We succeeded in finding
one family here. We also trolled a portion of the time
that we were absent from camp, and caught six fine lake-
trout.

We are now in the virgin forest, where the lumberman
has not destroyed its original beauty by the removal of a
single pine-tree. Here we see nature in all her wildness
and enchanting beauty. Here the landscape is clothed in
nature's robes of green during the spring and summer
months, dotted here and there with her silvery lakes and
rivers, while in autumn she adds to these charming colors
her lovely golden tints.

The lover of nature cannot resist the grandeur, the
enchanting beauty, and overwhelming sense of his obliga-

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

III!

tions to Deity, when he travels along nature's highways
and views this magnificent scenery. It is a more eloquent
and forcible sermon than has ever been preached from any
pulpit in Christendom.

It is, to me, a sincere regret that I cannot picture to
the mind of the reader the beauty and grandeur of these
scenes ; and likewise that I cannot convey to him the un-
speakable pleasures and the gratitude which I felt while
worshipping at nature's shrine in these grand forests. I
sincerely wish that the whole world could enjoy these
things as I enjoyed them ; but neither the author nor the
photographer can present them with nature's power.

Having spent the day very pleasantly, surrounded with
novel scenes, we retired early to our tents for repose ; but
sounds which were novel to my ears soon aroused me from
my slumbers, and I listened more than half an hour to the
mingled bowlings of a pack of wolves. These animals
are not dangerous to mankind ; they differ widely from
European wolves, and are principally troublesome in this
country because of their sheep-killing proclivities. This
music that we heard to-night, the howling of the wolves,
was repeated every night for more than a month ; in fact,
we heard it nighdy as long as we remained in this dark
wilderness.

These serenades were the only evidences we had of
their existence, until after the snow had fallen so as to
render perceptible their tracks, which were then occasion-
ally discovered.

The forenoon of the next day, October 7, was spent
in trout-fishing, grouse-shooting, and exploring the sur-

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

139

rounding country. The captain conducted me about half
a mile up the side of a steep hill, which had its base on
Long Lake, to another lake situated on the top of this
hill or mountain. While I recognize the fact that all
mountain lakes occupy different planes or levels, some
higher and others lower, stiir it seemed very unusual to
climb the face of a steep hill, commencing at one lake, and
find another just where you had expected to reach the
hill-top. This lake was nearly round and probably some-
what less than one-half mile in diameter. We saw, during
our morning peregrinations, many old moose-tracks, and
also many spots in the woods where these animals had
browsed ; while a few of these moose indications were
certainly of recent origin.

The captain thought it wise to tarry in our present
camp several days, to kill deer and dry the venison, in
order that we might have a supply of meat while engaged
in moose-hunting, independent of that which we might be
able to kill during this period.

We had unanimously agreed that it was inexpedient to
take dogs with us on the moose chase. In this particular
our experience fully confirmed the wisdom of our con-
clusion. The moose cannot be driven to water by deer-
hounds, or any other species of dogs with which I am
familiar ; and, therefore, had we taken these animals with
us, they could only have served to announce our presence
to the game which we sought, without being able to render
any assistance. These facts will become more apparent
to the reader when he has read other portions of this
book, when the story of the moose-hunt has been told

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TIf£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

from beginning to end. We are now entering on nature's
grandest preserve, — we find here the " King of the Cana-
dian Forest," alias moose, deer, beaver, black bear, black
wolf, speckled- and lake-trout, duck, ruffed grouse, etc.
Here is abundance of sport for the true sportsman.
During the morning stroll we saw several beaver-houses
which were occupied, and examined a large amount of
their fresh work. These sights were highly interesting to
me, but inasmuch as they have been so frequently de-
scribed by others, I shall omit them here.

It was already after twelve o'clock when we reached
our camp. The guides prepared our dinner, which was
speedily partaken of, and then we got off on a deer-hunt.
The captain started into the woods with the dogs. George
Ross and I entered a canoe, the former paddling across
the lake to a point that commanded a view of a large
portion of this water. We then stepped on dry land, and
there patiently awaited the coming developments. We
carefully scanned every visible portion ( the lake. An
hour passed and still we were watching ; soon a grand
splash was heard near the shore on the opposite side of
the lake ; the guide caught sight of the water which was
thrown high into the air, but the hi^ad of the deer was
scarcely visible to him while the animal was swimming
towards us. The deer, which, at first, swam directly towards
us, soon changed his course and headed towards the foot
of the lake. This change brought him plainly into view,
A few minutes later the dog was seen running from the
woods where the deer broke cover. The head and antlers
of our game were visible above the waters of the lake,

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on, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

141

while he was swimming majestically without fear or even
anxiety. We stood nearly half an hour watching the
movements of this deer, since we could not safely move
lest we should be discovered by the game and give him
an opportunity to return to his forest home. The reader
should remember that this animal took to the water from
the shore nearly opposite to the point on which we were
standing, that the deer swam almost directly towards us
until he reached the middle of the stream, then turned
downward, which gave us," in du*) time, an opportunity to
come in unperceived behind him. Patiently we awaited
this opportune moment. When it arrived, the canoe, which
had been drawn up on the shore near us, was quietly
shoved out upon the water. Ross gently stepped to the
stern with his paddle in hand, steadied our little bark while
I entered its bow, where I seated myself and placed my
rifie at my right side. Ross carefully pushed the little
craft from its moorings, placed himself on his knees in that
part of the canoe which properly trimmed it, and silently
plied his paddle.

The little canoe moved noiselessly but rapidly forward,
every stroke of the paddle bringing us nearer to the game.
There was another paddle lying near my hand ; I seized it
and gave a helping hand, greatly increasing the speed.
Forward, forward we went ! We were unperceived, al-
though within ten rods of a beautiful buck, which was
swimming in the middle of the lake direcdy before us.
My paddle was changed for my rifle. Nearer, still nearer
we approached. The rifle was raised ; the bead was drawn,
just below the base of the animal's skull. We were six

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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rods distant from the deer. A little puff of white smoke
covered the bow of our boat; the crack of the rifle was
heard, and the lifeless body of the deer floated on the
water, which was slightly tinged with blood. Thus ended
this chase. The carcass was towed to shore in front of
our camp, and the captain met us there, having returned
from the woods, where he had gone to start the dogs. The
dog which followed the buck that I had just shot was also
now in our camp, but the other was still absent. Nearly
two hours had elapsed since tlfe buck was shot. There
were now on the shore, in front of our camp, the captain,
George Ross, and myself, while Mildenberger had gone
back into the forest in search of ruffed grouse. Suddenly
the captain sprang from the rock on which he had been
seated, placed his right hand on his forehead in such a
position as to shade his eyes, while he leaned slightly for-
ward and gazed steadily out over the surface of the lake a
few seconds without uttering a single word. This position
was one that I had frequently seen him assume. I there-
fore recognized the fact that he had sighted game, or was
at least swayed by this thought, and now endeavored to
solve the question. Thus he had stood for a few seconds,
when he simply exclaimed, ''A deer in the lakef and
instantly sprang forward to the canoe. I had followed him
closely with rifle in hand, expecting to make the chase with
him ; he quickly pushed the frail bark into the water and
hastily said, " Doctor, let George go w'th me in the canoe ;
it will be a hard chase ; we will drive the deer to you." A
few seconds later the canoe was on the water, the captain
in the bow and George Ross in the stern, each on their

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

knees with a paddle in their hands. The little birch-bark
was rushing rapidly forward, propelled by the power of
four strong, muscular arms. The sight is a grand one, and
calK^d to mind the impetuous charge of a squadron of
cavalry in war times. The captain is most determined and
energetic when in the pursuit of game ; like the grandest
charger in the squadron, he is bound to take the lead, while
the others can only follow.

This peculiarity of the man has been demonstrated
frequently in my presence in the chase, and all his fellow-
huntsmen and guides are retidy to grant him this position.
I had seated myself on a rock, soon after the departure of
the guides, to watch the deer, whose head was visible to
me in my position, although fully a mile away. I could
not, however, at so great a distance, determine whether
this animal possessed antlers or not ; but the leisurely
manner in which it was swimming satisfied me its pursuers
were undiscovered until they had made at least three-
fourths of the whole distance. The animal, when first dis-
covered, was nearly opposite to our camp and within a
few rods of the farther shore. The guides, in order to
succeed in the accomplishment of their purpose, were com-
pelled to make a considerable detour to the rear of the
animal, and finally come up between it and the shore.
Fortunately for us they had remained, for a considerable
time, undiscovered, and the animal, in the mean time, was
gradually leaving the shore while swimming down the lake.
The moment, however, came when the pursuers were dis-
covered, and the deer then made the most frantic efforts. J
could see it spring forward with all its power ^ raising its

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE,-

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>&^«^ high in the air ivith each grand ejforty but the guides
are pulling stronger than before on their paddles. They
seem, when viewed from my position, to be only a few rods
in the rear of the animal, but the deer is heading for the
shore and seems about ready to bound into the forest. It
is now evident to me that the chase can only last a few
seconds. / sprang from my seat ; I recalled the fact that
the guides have no gun in the boat ; I realize that if they
had one they could now easily kill the animal ; they are
almost on it. An instant later and the canoe is seen between
the deer and the shore ; a loud shout is heard from the
guides ; they wave their hats ; they are victorious, and the
disappointed deer now turns and swims towards the middle
of the lake. Its grandest effort has been made ; fatigue and
disappointment slow down its movements. It was now an
easy task for the guides to direct the animal to any point
on the lake. The canoe was kept in the rear, and when
it was brought forward towards the right of the deer, it
would cause the animal to oblique to the left, and vice versa.
In this manner they proceeded to cross the lake, bringing
the doe in front of the rock on which I was seated ; but
while she was still about six hundred yards away they
called on me to take a shot. I demurred against their
request, inasmuch as the portion of the animal now visible
did not much exceed the dimensions of a pint cup. The
first ball fired fell short about fifty yards, and then rico-
chetted nearly across the lake. Another shot was fired
with no better result, and thus I continued for several
minutes, but not without making some improvement. The
shots were pronounced by the guides to be accurate, so far

"I'l.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

as the line of the target was concerned, but the balls still
fell short of the mark.

The photographer, who was absent in the woods when
I commenced firing, now made his appearance, and seizing
the Winchester rifle, began to compete with me. H-^ was
able to fire two shots with the repeater while I could fire
one from the breech-loading Ballard. The contest between
us was now very lively, and we succeeded in persuading
the guides to bring the game nearer to us, so that the
animal was not more than one hundred yards from the
muzzles of the rifles. The bullets now fell in very close
proximity to the doe's head ; none were more than four
or five inches from its centre. Six or eight shots have
been fired with this degree of accuracy, when I send in
one that breaks the skin over the base of the animal's
skull. She dodges her head downward, but quickly brings
it up again, when a shot from Mildenberger ends this trial
of skill. The guides shout aloud and lustily cheer the pho-
tographer, zuho proudly puts doivn his rifle and wipes the
perspiration from his brow.

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146

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARaDJSE;

CHAPTER VIII.

I'v

Dryino Venison — A Grand and Beautiful Mountain Goroe— The Meetino
AT THE BkaverDam— Our Photocrapiier Lost in the VVildernkss— A
Lonely Nicht on Buck Lake— The Horriiile Dream— The Lost Man
Found — The Unexpected Meetino with a Bull Mouse.

ill

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HE preparation for the moose-hunt
was now commenced by cutting the
flesh of the deer, which we had just
killed, into strips or slices, and dry-
^ ing the same on a scaffold erected
for the purpose over our camp-fire.
This labor, however, did not inter-
fere seriously with the continuation of deer-hunting, trout-
fishing, an- bird-shooting; but, inasmuch as we have fully
described these sports, we shall hereafter entirely omit, or
pass very rapidly over, them, lest a too frequent repetition
of that which Is very interesting may become monotonous.

We remained on this lake ten days, during which
period the venison was fully dried, and we had a very
enjoyable time. The weather was generally very pleasant,
although we had a sl'Vht snow-storm and occasional rains.
The photographer took many negatives, and uinong others,
a view of our camp, which appears as a frontispiece in this
book. Game was found here in great abundance, and our
larder was always well supplied ; in fact, there was no time
during our stay on this lake when we had not plenty of
venison, trout, and ruffed grouse ; nor was it found ne-

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

cessary for us to spend more than a small portion of our
time in procuring tiiese necessities ; consequently, both
long and short journeys were made into the surrounding
forest with no other object than spending our time pleas-
antly. It should, nevertheless, be here confessed that
nature frequently rewarded us for these labors, even be-
yond our expectations, revealing to us at such times her
grandest secrets. It was during our stay on this lake that
the photographer and I started out one afternoon, taking
with us bird-dogs and shot-guns, although the chief object
of this trip was not to gather in partridges for food, but
rather to study nature in this grand solitude. We walked
together probably about one mile, chatting pleasantly in
the mean time, when I separated from him for the purpose
of investigating a deep and dark ravine, which I was at
that moment entering. The desire to be alone, entirely
alone, so far as human companionship was concerned, had
taken complete possession of my soul. I therefore in-
formed Mr. Mildenberger that we would separate here,
and that I would rejoin him at the head of the lake. Two
bird-dogs remained with me, while one accompanied the
photographer ; even this companionship was noiv more than
I desired. Faithful Ponto commonly afforded me much
satisfaction by his persevering efforts to find game, and
litde Romp often amused me by his wild antics ; but that
afternoon I frequently wished that they were both back in
camp.

The sun was shining brighdy, but nevertheless the
depth of the ravine which I had entered was so great, and
the shadows of the giant trees which overhung its borders

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148

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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SO dark, that I soon found myself in a sort of twilight.
This peculiar light gave a strange and weird appearance
to those objects situated at the bottom of the ravine, while
the autumnal frosts had touched the foliage of the trees
growing from its sides, as well as those which overhung
it, imparting to it many of the most beautiful colors of the
rainbow, which it rivalled in beauty. Great rocks and
grand boulders, frequently covered with ferns, were often
seen in the bottom and on the sides of this half-lighted
chasm. Grandeur and beauty were here combined. As I
proceeded up thiii mountain gorge, the scenes presented
were truly kaleidoscopic : the surrounding landscape pre-
sented an endless variety of beautiful colors, which a mar-
vellous play of light and shade blended in the formation
of pictures that were frequently artistic, although at other
times they were grotesque and comical.

Slowly I advanced through this fairy-land, often halting,
and sometimes seating myself on some convenient rock
in order to study more carefully the effect of a passing
cloud, or the flight of a bird which chanced to come in
such a position as to throw its shadow within my view.
In this manner the time passed rapidly, and my promise to
meet the photographer at the head of the lake had been
completely forgotten. It was not until late in the afternoon
that I was stimulated, by the increasing darkness in the
deep, dark mountain gorge, to quicken my pace, in order
that I might be able to return to camp before nightfall.

Finally, hurried forward by the thought thai I might
be compelled to spend a night in the woods, where the
charming scenes just described had been dispelled by the

HS-555B=

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

149

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increasing- gloom, I soon found myself at the end of the
gorge and on the top of the mountain. The entire length
of this deep ravine did not exceed two miles, but I had
spent within it more than three hours. Ha* in "; reached
the mountain-top, I was now convinced t' a 1 had an
abundance of time to return to our camp by uu way of
the head of the lake ; and I was prompted to start in this
direction by the belief that Mr. Mildenberger .ould prob-
ably remain in that vicinity until I could join him. It now
remained for me to determine the direction which I must
take in order to reach this objective-point. I seated my-
self for a few moments, thought on the subject, and then
proceeded on my journey, but had not taken a dozen steps
when I caught an instantaneous glance of a fine buck
not more than forty yards from me on the slope of the
mountain. This animal rushed down the mountain-side
with such rapidity that I was unable to get a distinct out-
line of his form at any time after he had taken his first
leap, although the movements of the underbrush and a
shadowy figure were visible for a few seconds. Romp
started promptly after the fleeing animal, and Ponto soon
joined in the chase. The direction taken by these fugi-
tives was towards the head of the lake, and therefore I
followed after them. I had tramped, I supposed, about
two miles, when I came to a cedar swamp, which I unhesi-
tatingly penetrated, and soon found myself standing on
the edge of a considerable brook, which I thought would
enter the lake near the head of that body of water; con-
sequently, I started down this stream, which I followed
about two miles, when I heard a shout from the photog-

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I50

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

;

rapher. I was delighted to hear his voice, but greatly
surprised to find him in such a dense jungle. I had pre-
viously observed that the brook which I was following had
overflowed its borders, — had, evidendy, quite re-
cently assumed unusual proportions, since the trees
now nearly sub- {j
merged were
still apparently
healthy. '

It is a well-
known fact to
backwoodsmen
that trees
when com-

Beaver-dam and house.

pletely submerged soon die. I was not, therefore, sur-
prised when the photographer, whom I had approached
so nearly as to now be within speaking distance, although

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OJ?, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

^5»

I could not yet see the objects which were immediately
about him, said, " I am standing on a recently-constructed
beaver-d?»n, while the beaver-house, not yet fully com-
pleted, is situated very near."

I finally succeeded in reaching the spot where my plio-
tographer was standing, learned that he had been there
two or three hours, that the bird-dogs had been in his
company a considerable portion of this time, having evi-
dently followed the deer which I had seen on the top of
the mountain into this vicinity. Mr. Mildenberger was
evidendy greatly interested in the labors of this animal,
and while contemplating it had forgotten the lake. He
failed to give me any information in regard to the routfe
by which he had reached his present situation. It was,
therefore, necessary ^o follow the brook down to the lake,
which feat was successfully accomplished ; in fact, the task
was not very difficult when we had succeeded in getting
below the dam, where the stream once more possessed its
natural boundaries, although its course led wt through a
very dense growth of alders and other swamp vegetation.

The lake was reached soon after sunset, and the firing
of a few signal-guns brought the guides with the canoes
promptly to us on the shore, where we had already built a
fire for the purpose of revealing our whereabouts.

There occurred on Tuesday, October lo, while we were
encamped on Long Lake, one of the most exciting events
of our sojourn in the forest, although it was only fortunate
in its happy termination. Captain Ross and the photog-
rapher started this morning into the woods, the former
for the purpose of starting a deer, while the latter was

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152

TIfE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

intent on shooting ruffed grouse. We were somewliat sur-
prised when the captain reached us, about one o'clock in
the afternoon, unaccompanied by Mr. Mildenberger, inas-
much as the latter possessed no knowledge of woodcraft,
and was therefore extremely liable to become confused and
fail to reach our camp. It had also been observed that the
photographer was entirely indifferent in regard to danger
in this particular; and even Wellington Ross, prior to sepa-
rating from us, had expressed the opinion that Mr. Milden-
berger would yet be compcilled to spend one or more
nights in the wilderness without the society of his comrades.

The moment the captain reached camp this afternoon he
inquired if the photographer had returned, and when an-
swered in the negative, he expressed considerable anxiety.
He said, "I left him early in the morning, and expected to
find him near the spot where we had separated when I re-
turned there about one hour since ; but he had taken his
departure and could not be found. I then thought that
probably he had grown weary of waiting for me and had
retraced his steps to the lake, fired a signal for a canoe,
and thus reached the camp."

Immediately after dinner the guides started out in
search of the lost photographer, each having arranged with
the other to go in a different direction, in order to cover as
much space as possible before nightfall, while they carried
with them their guns, which they continued to fire at In-
tervals for the purpose of attracting Mr. Mildenberger's
attention and aiding him in finding the camp. The search
was earnestly kept up during the whole afternoon, and only
terminated with the commencing darkness of evening,

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

153

while the firing of guns was continued until nine o'clock.
This firing since nightfall was stimulated by certain in-
distinct sounds heard by us, which we thought to be the
shouts of the lost photographer, although there was some
doubt in our minds on this subject.

The anxiety felt in our camp for our lost companion is
very great this evening. It is greatly feared that he will
attempt to travel in the woods at night. This effort might
be productive of fatal results. Again, it is thought possible
that fear and anxiety may possibly affect his intellect, and
thus cause him to wander away from the sounds of our
guns and otherwise interfere with us in our search and his
safe return to camp. The reader, in order to fully com-
prehend the fears and anxieties of those in camp, must
remember that the lost man was a complete stranger to
our country, a German, whose knowledge of a wilderness
had been gained from a few acres of woodland in his boy-
hood home, or possibly a small park containing trees and
small streams. Furthermore, his residence in America
since his arrival on these shores has been limited entirely
to large cities, with no knowledge of our rural districts at
the time he started on this journey. The anxiety which we
felt for his safety was likewise intimately connected with the
objects which we desired to accomplish by this journey into
the wilderness. The author had started from his home with
the determination of engaging in a grand moose-hunt be-
fore he returned, and had employed the photographer that
he might be able to present to his friends in the future
some pleasant reminiscences of the doings of his party in
the Lake Lands of Canada. The party was now just about

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154

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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engaging in the chief object of the expedition. It will,
therefore, be observed that both sympathy and self-interest
'combined to increase our solicitude for the safety of Mr.
Mildenberger.

The fruitless search for the missing man during the
afternoon had served to greatly increase this anxiety ; and
therefore the entire conversation around our camp-fire
during the evening related to a further prosecution of the
search for the photographer. This subject was thoroughly
discussed, and it was finally agreed that the captain should
start from camp in the morning with the earliest dawn of
day, and that George Ross and the author should follow as
soon as it became evident to them that the captain's first
effort had failed. The captain, during the discussion which
occurred in the evening around the camp-fire, had ex-
pressed the opinion that Mr. Mildenberger would be found
in the morning at Mountain Lake. In our contemplation
of the condition of the photographer, we were comforted
by the thought that the weather was now clear and mild,
and therefore he would be relieved from the physical suf-
ferings that might otherwise attend a separation from us.
We were likewise aware that lie was supplied with matches,
which would enable him to build a fire, and thus render his
surroundings in the woods more endurable at night than
they would otherwise have been.

The author spent a restless night in his tent ; his sleep

was disturbed ; his companion was absent, and there was

some doubt as to his safety. He awoke before it was light;

awaited rather anxiously the first dawn of day, which made

• its appearance about 5.45, when he called the captain and

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

155

asked him if it was not time to start on the search. The
captain rubbed his eyes and replied in the affirmative. We
then both arose and stepped from our respective tents into
the open air. At that moment we heard the voice of Mr.
Mildenberger. It was indistinct ; he evidendy was a great
distance from us, but we both now felt assured that he
was still glive. We recognized the voice as that of our pho-
tographer. The captain quickly fired two shots, hoping
that Mr. Mildenberger would hear the sound; and then
he promptly started for the shore where his canoe was
lying ; the little bark was shoved off on the water, and, oc-
cupied by our sturdy backwoodsman, she glided away on
the smooth surface of the lake with great rapidity. We
listened intently to the shots fired from the captain's rifle,
and also to his lusty shouts. We had expected that these
sounds would elicit a reply from our lost friend, but no an-
swer was heard. The captain paddled quickly across the
lake ; the canoe was drawn on the shore ; the sound of his
voice and the report of his rifle were heard more than half
an hour after he entered che woods ; but both gradually
grew less distinct, and finally were heard no more. We
had expected to hear some answering shots or shouts from
Mr. Mildenberger, but none have reached our ears since
the early dawn. Is he wa.idering away from us ? Has he
failed to hear our shots ? These were the questions asked
in our camp. George has prepared our breakfast and we
have attempted to supply nature's demand. We found
little pleasure around our board this morning ; could not
enjoy our food ; two of our members are absent, the cap-
tain and Mr. Mildenberger, and when will they be with us

M.,1

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156

T//E SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE.-

again ? The latter query, like those so recently asked,
could not now be answered. It has been more than three
hours since the captain left the camp. George was busied
with the labors attending the drying of the venison. The
author was perched on a high rock at the lake-shore, ready
to announce the first appearance of the lost.

The captain's canoe was seen on the lake approaching
camp ; but the distance was too great for its occupants to
be discerned. This discovery was made by the author and
promptly announced to the guide in the camp, who imme-
diately came to the lookout.

We are still unable to make out the number of persons
in the canoe. Great was our suspense! Great our anx-
iety to know the result of the captain's search ! After a
time we were able to distinguish two voices. Gladness
filled our hearts ; a joyful shout from us was answered by
a similar one from the canoe. Two forms are now visible ;
two paddles are driving the little bark rapidly forward ;
it will soon be halted at our feet. Shout after shout was
heard from our friends, and shout answered shout. Our
joy was great and unrestrained. The canoe touched shore,
was drawn on dry land, and a joyous handshaking fol-
lowed. A breakfast was quickly prepared for the pho-
tographer and captain. They were hungry, and unques-
tionably greatly enjoyed the repast.

Let us now return to the photographer's wanderings,
and detail his joys and sufferings as he has reported them
to us. The morning of the day on which he was lost, when
he started out with the captain, was perfectly clear and the
sun was shining brightly. He soon found himself thor-

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

157

oughly engrossed in partridge-shooting, and had no thought
of danger, or that he should wander away from camp so
far that he could not readily find his way back again. He
told the captain, when they separated, that he would soon
return to the lake ; but, since the shooting was very good
in the early part of the day, he thought very little of the
promise. In fact, he did not think it necessary for him to
pay any attention even to the direction in which he was
journeying, and consequently he pushed heedlessly for-
ward, passing lake after lake, over mountain and hill, until
nearly three o'clock in the afternoon. At this hour he
began to feel hungry ; halted ; dressed and broiled one of
the partridges which he had killed in the morning. While
thus engaged, it occurred to him that he was lost, and
would probably fail to reach camp that night. These
thoughts impaired his appetite and rendered him somewhat
nervous. The deer-dogs, which the captain had taken with
him into the woods in the morning, approached the pho-
tographer soon after this lunch. He could not persuade
them to remain with him ; and, inasmuch as he supposed
that they were now returning to camp after their unsuc-
cessful chase, he attempted to follow them ; but they were
soon lost to his vision. The dogs reached camp before
dark, thus succeeding better than Mr. Mildenberger.

The old bird-dog, " Bummer," started with him in the
morning, but he too returned to camp. It will, therefore,
be observed that the photographer was entirely alone in the
wilderness, — that even the dogs had most ungenerously re-
fused to stay with him. When he fully realized that he was
lost he walked rapidly, hoping still that he might reach some

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158

TJfJi SrOIiTSAUN':i PARADISE:

familiar point in the woods ; but evcrythinji;- was strange, —
forest, lakes, mountains, and hills all refused to grant the
assistance he desired. The anxiety of mind which he felt
when he first discovered that he was losr had steadily
increased, every hour adding to his sufferings, until he
finally found himself plunged into the most intense mental
agony. He now realized that he was a stranger in a
strange land, — a wanderer in a wilderness so large that
it was possible for him to spend several months in wander-
ing without ever coming in contact with a single human
being. Abo' an hour before sunset he reached a large
lake, or at least one much larger than any he had seen
during the day, after leaving the one on which we were
encamped. This lake, he thinks, was about two miles in
length and about one mile in width. He shot a duck, and
then concluded to camp for the night on the shore of this
lake. He saw a high cliff at a point on the shore, having
a perpendicular rock wall rising more than one hundred
and fifty feet above the surface of the lake, and he, deter-
mined to climb up to this high point and take one more
view of terra firma; then, if nothing better offered, he
would spend the night there. The cliff, or promontory,
which we have mentioned, possessed but one rocky, per-
pendicular wall ; the other sides were steep slopes covered
with heavy forest-trees, while there occasionally cropped
out a rocky stratum or ledge. These slopes were chiefly
covered with a heavy growth of birch and maple, although
there were to be seen, near the summit, several large
white-pine trees. The photographer had reached the lake-
shore about one hundred rods from the southern base of

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

159

this high clift, and consequently it required only a lew min-
utes' walk, when he was prepared to commence the ascent.
He had walked very rapidly durin<r the latter part of the
day, was now gready fatigued, and consequently lie found
the ascent of the steep slope very difficult and even pain-
ful to him. The steepness of the acclivity was so great
that it was impossible for him to make a direct ascent of
its face ; so he was compelled to tack from one point to
another, in imitation of the course pursued by the mariner
under certain circumstances. The reader will readily
understand that, under these circumstances, it was im-
possible for the photographer to make very rapid progress
in the ascent ; still he labored on, drawing himself up by
seizing hold of bushes or any other projecting substance,
frequently resting in order to gain strength to enable him
to make a new effort, and thus, after having spent an hour
in this severe toil, he finally reached the summit of the clitf.
Let us now look upon him as he then appeared, after he
had accomplished the ascent and stood on the top of the
cliff, overlooking the lake and surrounding forest. The
reader would have pronouiiced him, even at this moment, a
strong, athletic man, but would have been surprised when
he observed that his face was livid, eyes protruding and
reddened, forehead, face, and hands covered with large
drops of perspiration, while every muscle in the poor suf-
ferer's body trembled from over-exertion. Thus appeared
our photographer when he first stepped forward on die
high cliff and gazed around him, but only for a few mo-
ments, when he was observed to totter and then sink down
upon the ground, where he remained prostrate for some

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T/fE SPO/fTSAfAN'S PARADISR:

minutes, but finally raised himself to a sittings posture. Be-
hold him as he now sat there ! pardy doubled up, lower
extremities extended and restinjj on the earth, elbows rest-
inj^ on thighs, head drooping forward and clasped on either
side with a hand, — a perfect picture of despair. The face
is turned towards the earth, the mind is dazed, and he can-
not now recall his own doings during the day. Fortu-
nately, this mental condition was of short duration, — lasted
only about a quarter of an hour, — when he fully regained
consciousness and realized the fact that he was lost. He
once more assumed the standing position, and now carefully
surveyed the lake and the surrounding landscape. There
was nothing visible but this single lake, surrounded by
miles and miles of dark forest. He recalled the fact that
during this day's journeying he had passed eight or ten
lakes, but he observed nothing in the appearance of this
wilderness to indicate, at this time, their existence or locality.

The sun had just disappeared behind the western hori-
zon. He now examined the contents of his pockets, and
discovered that he had only two cartridges for the shot-gun
left. He instantly resolved that he would do no more
shooting for the present, unless it became necessary for the
preservation of his life. There was no more time to be
lost by inactivity, wood must be gathered for the night's
fire, and some evergreen boughs placed on the surface of
the flat rock in order to prepare it for a seat during his in-
voluntary sojourn. The photographer now set about the
performance of these duties, which engaged his attention
until the darkness of night had settled down about him.

In the mean while, he had built a fire on the front part

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

I6l

of the plateau, about one hundred feet back from the per-
pendicular wall which has already been described. This
plateau was an oblong piece of ground, containing about
one acre, which formetl the top of the high cliff, and was
covered from near the perpendicular wall which fronted
on the lake with whortleberry-bushes and a few dwarfed
evergreens, while on the rear of the plateau there were
found those trees common to this wilderness.

Having carefully located our photographer where he
has concluded to remaii> until the dawn of the morrow,
we are now interested in knowing how he spent the in-
tervening hours. The task has been made easy for the
author, he having received a full statement from the pho-
tographer, who always seemed anxious to impart to others
a knowledge of his feelings and doings on this gloomy
night, thus showing a willingness to place his friends in
possession of a very valuable experience without their
being subjected to the illi from which he suffered. He
informed me that, having built the fire, gathered the wood,
etc., he then walked to and fro and attempted to collect
his thoughts, but could do so only very imperfectly; re-
membered that he had game in his pockets, but fully
realized the fact that he could not eat; was greatly fatigued,
but could not sleep. Burdened with his troubles, disap-
pointed and sad, he exclaimed, " What shall I do ?" The
answer came to him in the twinkling of an eye. " Yell !"
and yell he did ! It was these tremendous shouts that
echoed through the forest, and were heard in our camp
between eight and nine o'clock on the evening of the day
when our photographer strayed away. These shouts were

1 62

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

but indistinctly heard by us ; we supposed that they were
made by a human being, but there were doubts in our
miuds on this point. They came to us at intervals of five
or ten minutes. We fired guns in response to them, but
it made no difference ; it did not change even the length
of the intervals. We thought it was strange that he did
not '-yell" immediately after the discharge of our guns.
It was strange, but he has since explained all this by say-
ing, "I did not hear your guns; I did not hear your
shouts;" and consequently it still seems strange to me
that we were able to hear his "yells." These facts can
only be explained by some one who possesses a more
thorough knowledge of acoustics and our acoustic rela-
tions at that moment than your humble servant.

The reader will be still further astonished when he
learns that it has been definitely determined since that
eventful day that Mr. Mildenberger was separated from
us by no less than four English geographical miles. The
photographer, having yelled till he was tired of this exer-
cise, still continued to walk, walk, walk ! Although sorely
fatigued, he was so much disturbed in mind that when he
seated himself for a moment he could only remain in that
posture for a few seconds. The hours dragged slowly on,
midnight came, and he now seated himself before the
blazing fire, closed his eyes and did sleep. It was the sleep
of exhaustion, — a troubled slumber. In this condition he
dreamed that he was a soldier once more ; that the fates of
war had goiie against him. The army to which he belonged
had been operating in a wild country ; had suffered a most
disastrous defeat ; the soldiers had fled from the field ; had

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

163

entered a great wilderness, in order to effect escape, but
that they were closely pursued by a savage and relentless
foe. Listen ! He even now hears the shouts of the vic-
tors ; they have probably picked up some stragglers from
the defeated army. A few moments later and he hears a
lively discharge of firearms. These sounds are followed
by some desultory musket-shots, then all is c|uiet once
more, Tl" photographer now fancies that the victors
have com n on a considerable body of his comrades, who
have attempted to defend themselves rather than surrender
as prisoners of war. He now realizes the imminent dan-
ger with which he is surrounded. He imagines that he
is fleeing rapidly before the enemy ; and we know that he
is restless and constantly moving. Behold him now ! His
eyes are widely open ; he glares ivildly about him ; still he
slumbers. In this disturbed sleep he sees the fnerciless savage
peering from behind every forest-tree and bush upon him.
He calls aloud, " What shall I do? I am already siir-
rotindedy He now beholds the brutal, bloody, and fiend-
ish Iroquois Indians creeping stealthily upon him ; they are
in full war-paint and armed with their barbarous instni-
ments of war. This is their momsfit of triumph over a poor
defeated Huron ! They have risen to their feet, and noiv
rush forward upon our sleeping soldier I The insti'uments
of death are already uplifted ; an unearthly yell is Jicard
which echoes from lake to lake ! Our photographer springs
to his feet ; looks wildly about him. He is now awake ;
nevertheless he hears a doleful sound : the wolves are
howling to-night like so many de; .ons. He had frequently
heard them howl, but never befoi^e did their voices sound so

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

111

near and hatcfid. They are no longer musical to his ear,
but truly demoniacal to-night. He had been seated by the
fire about two hours, but in his horrible dream he had
suffered the pangs of a thousand deaths. There was no
more slumber for him that night. He would not even seat
himself before the fire, but walked again " to and fro,"
endeavoring to recall the meanderings of the previous day,
and to determine upon some plan by which he could return
to the camp. The dawn of day finally appealed. His
plan was now matured. He would endeavor to retrace
his steps ; if lie could do this, then he could finally rec.ch
us once more. TLf^ idea that it would become necessary
for him to retrace his steps hatl not occurred to him during
his wanderings of the previous day. He had moved off
boldly then, ^pviting to good luck rather than any knowl-
edrre of woodcraft to hx\x\si him back to us. This man, in
fact, had been absolutely reckless in his wanderings since
he entered the forest. He did not, apparently, realize
that there was danger in straying about the wilderness
without the aid of a guide who was familiar with every
lake, mountain, and hill.

He had never yet attempted the practice of that pre-
caution which even the best guides frequently take in this
grand forest, and which they learned from the Indians. I
have frequently observed that my guide, the moment he
started '"'om camp, commenced to break the twigs or small
branches of the bushes with which he came in contact, care-
fully turning the broken twig backwards towards the camp,
and continued this practice until he was nearly ready to
start homeward, when he would face about and return on

if''

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA,

i6:

this trail. This procedure is not practised after the snow
lias fallen, so long as it remains capable of receiving- the
impression which makes the trail. Thus we find him suf-
fering from his own neglect • but we feel assured that he is
fast learning to live, and we trust that he may live long to
learn. Let us now return to him. He is surrounded by
the gray dawn of morning ; is now ready to attempt to
retrace his steps. He utters one tremendous yell, which is
heard distinctly in our camp, four miles away. He now
starts on his return ; the captain at the same time sets out
in search of him. They met in the woods ; it was a joyous
meeting; the woods resounded with their joyful shouts.
We have already described the return of the lost photog-
rapher to our camp, but have said nothing in regard to his
personal appearance. This description is possibly unneces-
sary to those who have read carefully his adventure.

It is entirely natural that the reader should suppose the
photographer's expression to be perfectly woe-begone, and
at the same time that it should be haggard. I can assure
him that even these words fail to convey any adequate idea
of the poor man's personal appearance. He had certainly
suffered during the last eighteen hours about as much as it
is possible for any man to suffer in that brief space of time,
but it had taught him a valuable lesson, one which he did
not forget while we remained in Canada, and if you desire,
even at this date, to hear from his own lips a sad narrative
of his experience during the night that he was lost in the
•wilderness, it is only necessary to ask him about that night
which he spent on Buck Lake.

Our party now encamped on Long Lake, spent the

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1 66

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

time intervening between the return of the photographer
anil the 15th of October, was spent, very pleasantly, in deer-
hunting, partridge-shooting, trout-fishing, and the taking
of negatives. On the 12th of October occurred a very un-
expected and memorable event in the life of the author, —
his first meeting with a large bull moose face to face. It is
feared though that this incident will lack pathos for our
readers, as it did not result tragically for either the man
or the moose. The morning of this eventful day was
spent by our party in deer-hunting and fishing. Mid-day
found us, however, back in our camp. Both the captain and
myself remained in cami^ itil about four o'clock, when I
started out for a tram^ , utcing with me two bird-dogs and
a shot-gun. The first part of this tramp was entirely un-
eventful, and the meeting which I now report did not occur
until about half-past five o'clock. I was at this time walking
quite rapidly down a ravine rhich was bounded on either
side by low hills. The dogs were running a few rods ahead
of me, when I was suddenly startled by a noise in the
bushes, and instantly beheld, standing before me, a large
bull moose within less than six rods of the muzzle of my

gun.

^:i

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

CHAPTER IX.

A Shot at a Bull Moose — Following the Moose Trail — Moose-calling —
Breaking Camp on Long Lake — Camp on Jrail between Upper Long
and Sugar-Bush Lakes— Bad Weather and Consequent Delay — Prep-
aration and Start on the Reconnoissance.

HIS animal was probably
lying down when he dis-
covered me, and the noise
which attracted my attention
ljT< ,/ to the spot where I saw him was
"^T^i probably caused by his rising. I

I^A'v must confess that I was taken some-
what by surprise. I realized at
1^ / -vM^ this instant that I was ill pre-
r.'-^aE^fii^-.W'<.':^'^/<, pared to meet this sort ot
^^.^^^j^^^i-^ game. The bird-dogs ap-
peared still more sur-
prised ; they stood where I first discovered them, — only
about twenty feet from the king of the forest, but showed
no disposition to move, and they were also silent as the
grave. This position was firmly maintained by them until
the animal had finally concluded to withdraw from us. and
had actually started off, when the dogs promptly followed
and gave tongue in great abundance, although I observed
that they kept a very respectful distance from the fleeing
beast. The first glance which I obtained of this huge

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1 68

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

" The first glance which I obtained of this huge animal was while he was standing
with his side towards me."

K •

animal was while he was standing with his side towards me.
I dropped instantly on my knees in order that I might
more readily make search for a cartridge ( harged with
buckshot. I thought I had some in the pocket of my
hunting-coat. I drew from my pockets all my cartridges ;
placing them on the ground before me, after examr \<y
each separately, I discovered, to my sorrow, that all were
loaded with number five shot.

What could I do? The moose was now facing me,
having changed his position and advanced a few steps
nearer towards me. He was now looking directly at me,
and seemed to be deeply interested in what I was doing.
At that moment I removed from my pocket a Winchester
rifle cartridge, calibre 44, and the idea struck me, I will

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

169

I ;

put this down on the bird-shot and blaze away at this
animal. Prompted by this thought, I dropped a rifle car-
tridge into each barrel of my shot-gun and fired at the
moose's head. The old king of the forest did not imme-
diately change his position, but within a few seconds he
lowered his head and shook it violently, while at the same
time he stamped on the ground. It was evident that I
had only succeeded in enraging the old monster. He was
now acting like an infuriated bull which had been assailed
by the horseman and afterwards attacked by the banderil-
leros in a Spanish bull-fight.

I did not stop to discuss the question, What will the
moose do under these circumstances ? In fact, the thought
uppermost in my mind at that moment was, What shall I
do? How can I kill the monster? I renwrnb^^red that
after firing th' shot I had thoughtlessly lowered the
mux^Ie of my gun. thus allowing the rifle-bullet to fall from
the barrel which I had not yet discharged. I now began
t» search for another rifle cartridge. I finally found two.
The thpught now occurred to me, it will be prudent to
reload the barr»^l that had bt* n emptied. Unfortunately,
I had trouMe in removing the empty carirulge. While
thus enga^vd, the animal began to move sluggishly, not
directly forward, but forward ^\\<X slightly to the left. He
had not taken many steps when I succeeded in getting the
ernpty cartridge out of the barrel and a loaded one into
its place, then quickly the rifle cartridges were dropped on
the bird-shot. This work had been performed too tardily.
It is true the animal was still within sight. The gun was
quickly raised, but I was unable to draw a clear bead on

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170

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; .

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the fleeing monster. I waited a few seconds, hoping for a
better opportunity; but finally he made his escape without
my firing another shot at him. I have already said that
the movements of this animal were sluggish at first, but
they gradually became more rapid, and he had not trav-
elled more than five or 'six rods when his antlers were
thrown on his neck, and his movements had become so
rapid as to makia his body indistinctly visible. The most
rapid movements of the animal have been described as a
shambling trot, v^hich I am convinced is correct, while its
walk is not less awkward. The bird-dogs, that had re-
mained immovable and as silent as the dead in the tombs
of Egypt until the great monster had fairly started away
from them, now fallowed in hot pursuit and gave an abun-
dance of tongue.

The striking of the great antlers of this king of the
forest against the small tree and brush, as he rapidly
passed through the woods, made nearly as much noise as
our discreet dogs ; but these sounds were soon lost to my
ears,

I do not think that either myself or the moose was ever
entirely satisfied with the termination of this meeting. It is
true tisat the moose rather reluctantly withdrew from the
field aftfcr I had drawn blood, buf he did not thereby yield
to tlv d' -lancf which I had made. The bird-shot fairly
peppered the poor animal's face, while the rifle cartridge
went far from the nmrk nt which il was aimed.

I now started for thr lake shore in order that I might
signal the raptain to come for me with a canoe and take me
back to the camp, my wishes in this matter being made

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

171

known to him by the firing of a prearranged signal. I
took the precaution, however, in this case to break the
bushes along my route to the shore, so that I might be able
to return to this spot the next morning in company with
my guides. The captain now made his appearance, and
we returned to camp.

This day had been cloudy, and there was an occasional
sprinkling of rain, whilst during the night there was a
pretty heavy fall. I dreamed much during the sleeping
hours of the night of moose and moose-huntincr. We
arose the following morning soon after daylight. It was still
cloudy, but the rain had ceased. We started immediately
after breakfast for the scene of my meeting with the moose.
The precaution which I had taken on the previous day en-
abled me to readily approach the spot. We discovered
this morning that an old tree standing near where the
moosv.'s head had been had received the rifle cartridge.
Prior to this meeting with the moose, the question had
been freqwrMlly discussed aiound our camp \\\{\ whether it
were practical to trail these animals without the assistance
of a tracking snow. The niptain had firmly maintained
that it was impracticable, more especially at this particu-
lar season while th(; ground is covered with newly-fallen
leaves, which lit; v(;ry lightly on the earth-mould in which
the impression of the foot is made. The captain, however,
informed us that he had never attempted to follow a trail
of the moose under these circumstances, but was, neverthe-
less, fully assured that it could not be done. The auth^>r,
on the contrary, stoutly maintained that it was possible, that
this fact had been repeatedly demonstrated by other sports-

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11^1 111

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172

7W/? SPOUTS MAN'S PARADISE:

men, and that it was only necessary to examine their
records to prove its feasibility. The captain said in reply
to this argument, "I don't believe very much in these
statements made in books, but I shall test this question at
the first opportunity."

Here was the opportunity, and the captain was not slow
to avail himself of it. We started off on the trail, which
we followed without inti emission until about two o'clock in
the afternoon. This trail was very circuitous. We started
on it about a mile from our camp, followed it about eight
miles, and were then within three hundred yards of our
tent. This morning was cloudy ; some rain fell, though not
enough to seriously embarrass us ; but the rainfall of the
previous night made the trailing of the moose more difficult
than it would otiierwise have been. The morning's labor
has demonstrated the fact, to the entire satisfaction of the
captain and all the others in our party, that a moose may
be quite easily trailed without the aid of a tracking snow.
It is true that some difficulty is found in those cases where
the trails intersect each other, where the animals have
passed principally over rocky ground which is not covered
with a sufficient amount of earth-mould to receive the im-
pressions, and likewise in those cases where the earth is
covered so completely with a short, thick underbrush that
the animal's foot does not really come in contact with the
earth.

The captain was very sceptical in regard to moose-
calling, and I attempted to convince him by reading from
Frank Forester's "Field Sports" the following:

" Another, and yet more fatal, method by which man

ORy THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

^73

treacherously turns the poor brute's very pleasure into a
lure to certain death, is to simulate the cry of the cow
moose, which is easily done by immersing the lower end of
a common cow-horn partially in the water of some pool or
river, and blowifig dirou(,di it in a note very easily acquired,
which perfectly resembles the lowing of the female, and
which rarely or never fails to bring down the finest of the
bulls from their haunts in the mountain glens, to the am-
bush of" the lurking hunter, in search of their amorous
mates. The Indians use for this purpose the bark of the
beech or alder, or a postman's tin horn, and with this rude
implement are perfect adepts in producing the sound re-
quisite to call the bull to his love. The afternoon and the
silence of the moonlight night are the best times for this
mode of hunting, and cowardly and treacherous as it may
appear, it is perhaps the most perilous and not the least
exciting method of attacking tliese giant deer. For, in the
first place, the bull moose may generally be heard roaring
in the upland glens, responsive to the simulated call, long
ere they reach the hunter's station, and the interval be-
tween each successive bellow, nearer and louder, and more
full of passionate fury, is necessarily a moment of the keen-
est excitement. Then comes the tramp of his approaching
gallop, the crash of branches torn asunder by his impet-
uous charge, and at last the presence, in the full heat and
heyday of his amorous rage, of the forest champion.
Again when he discovers that it is a cheat, and that no cow
moose is on the spot expectant of his caresses, his fury is
tremendous and appalling; for, shy and timid as is this
monstrous animal at every other season, during the rutting

■

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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1.25

I' 12.0

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Hiotographic

Sciences

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23 WEST MAIN SfREET

WEbSTEt.N.Y. 14580

(716) 873-4503

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TI/E SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

time he is dangerous and savage in the extreme, and will
even attack a man when provoked, if he cross his path ii:
his momenti, of wanton dalHance.

"If he discovers then the hunter who is luring him by
playing with his tenderest passions, he will charge him on
the instant, fearless ; and woe betide the luckless wight
whose hand trembles in the a'm, or v/hose rifle misses fire
at that crisis. A bull moose seventeen or eighteen hands
in height, with antlers of six feet spread, and hoof as big
as an ox's, the edges of which cut like a sabre, and which
he can handle as deftly as a prize-fighter, is anything but a
pleasant customer at close quarters."

This statement, however, failed to carry conviction (o
the captain's mind, and his reply was that he had never
heard this moose-calling, although he had spent much time
in these forests. In answer to this statement I merely
called his attention to the fact that he had only been ac-
quainted with the moose ten or twelve years, since they
were not previously found in thi? section of Canada ; and
that, even according to his own admissions, he had never
spent any time in the moose country during their rutting
season. " This is all very true," replied the captain. " I
shall now keep my ears open, and if I hear these bulb
bellowing, then I shall be prepared to admit the truth of
the statement made in the book." He had only a short
time to wait, since the next move brought us fairly into
the moose country, and while we were still pushing for-
ward on the portage, having scarcely yet reached the
Sportsman's Paradise, the loud bellovang of a bull moose
was distinctly heard by our whole party. The captain

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

175

listened attentively to these sounds, and then exclaimed,
" I am satisfied that there is no animal in those woods that
can make such a noise but the old bull moose ; let us now
listen for the voice of the cow." The packs were quickly
placed on the ground, and every ear was attentively listen-
ing for these sounds. It was not many minutes before the
old bull's bass voice was distinctly heard bellowing to his in-
amorata, and the more modest tones of the cow were soon
heard in reply. The captain iijstandy said, " I am con-
vinced by my own ears, and nothing less would have ever
satisfied m?^." These sounds were frequently heard by us
daring the ensuing month while we remained in the moose
country, but we soon lost our interest in them, inasmuch
as the question which had been raised, in regard to calling
these animals, was now effectively settled.

Our departure from the camp on Long Lake took place
on the 15th of October. The leaves had mostly disap-
peared from the deciduous trees in this wilderness, thus
extending our vision, and affording us a better opportunity
t6 " still hunt" successfully. We had awaited this condition
of things with much anxiety, but a still further improve-
ment would probably soon follow. A light tracking snow
would now render most favorable the conditions for moose-
huntinof. The falling of the leaves had admitted light into
the woods, and now a slight fall of snow, three or four
inches, would enable the sportsman to noiselessly follow
his game under the most favorable circumstances. The
most favorable condition for still-hunting commonly follows
soon after a fall of snow. During the storm the game
remains inactive ; but when it has ceased, the moose, deer,

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176

r/f£ SFOu,. ^SMAAT'S PARADISE;

and other animals come out from their covers and leave
their fresh imprints on the snow, where there were pre-
viously no tracks or traces. Under those circumstances
no time need be lost in an examination of the track for the
purpose of determining whether it be new or old ; but
when several days have elapsed since the fall of snow, then
it remains to be determined whether the imprints are fresh
before the sportsman spends much time on them. The
reader will now remember that this hunt was organized
especially for the purpose of hunting the moose, and, inas-
much as our guides were entirely inexperienced in the art
of " calling," it therefore was necessary for us to depend
entirely on trailing them. The halt on Long Lake was
preparatory for the work which was to follow.

Having spent considerable time in these preparations,
and also in awaiting the arrival of those conditions favor-
able to moose-hunting, we finally broke camp about eight
o'clock on the morning of October 15. We travelled in
our canoes as far as the head of Long Lake. We then
crossed over the portage from this lake to Beaver Pond.
The distance from Long Lake to the pond is about a mile
and a half. The guides were rather slow in bringing up
our luggage this morning; and, therefore, for the purpose
of passing the time pleasantly, I started off into the woods,
taking with me Ponto and Bummer in search of partridges.
I found a number of birds about two miles from the pond,
and killed two with my rifle. I then made an attempt to
return to the place which I had left in the early part of the
day. This was a much more difficult task than I had an-
ticipated ; but, after having wandered about some time, 1

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

177

finally struck the trail which I had passed over in the
morning. I was now in doubt in regard to the direction
which I should here take, but started off promptly, knowing
full well that I should soon recognize some familiar object.
I soon found myself once more on Long Lake. It was
now entirely clear to my mind what r.ust be done. It was
only necessary for me to turn about and follow the trail
back to Beaver Pond ; which was very easily accomplished
owing to the fact that the passage of our party over the
same during the day had converted it into a well-marked
pathway. I soon reached this pond, but a new difficulty
was now encountered. The photographer and both guides
had moved forward from this spot towards the next lake,
taking with them all the baggage, and inasmuch as they
travelled in the canoes, the trail was lost at the water's
edge only a few feet from the spot where I had been in
the morning, but I did not know where I would be able
to pick it up again. There was no time to be lost. Dark-
ness would soon be on U3. I now determined to walk
around the pond ; a somewhat difficult task, owing to the
marshes or swamps that surrounded it. I was fortunate
in finding the trail made by our party where it left this
pond, and promptly started forward on it, being happily
rewarded by coming up with my friends after a brisk walk
of about twenty minutes. The trail that I was now fol-
lowing I found to be remarkably clear, owing to the fact
that it had been so recently made. The photographer and
guides had halted on the portage, erected their tents, and
were prepared to spend the night pleasantly.

The deer-dogs were absent from the camp this morning

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178

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

\ % : %.

when we moved out, and have not yet made their appear-
ance. The following day was spent on the portage. The
captain returned in the morning to the old camp on Long .
Lake, and there found the missing dogs, which he immed-
iately brought forward. George Ross commenced at an
early hour to carry forward our luggage to the nekt lake.
The following night found us encamped on the portage
leading from Upper Long Lake to Sugar-Bush Lake. I am
aware of the fact that having written much of Long Lake,
it is unfortunate to be compelled to write of another lake as
T Ipper Long Lake, but this condition of things seems un-
avoidable, since these names are the only ones which have
heretofore been applied to these bodies of water. It was
eight days after our departure from the camp on Long
Lake, where we had prepared our venison and made every-
thing ready for the grand moose-hunt, before we really
started out on the long-contemplated reconnoissance. This
time was not, however, spent in complete idleness. The
reader will remember that we started from Long Lake on
the morning of the 1 5th of October, and that we reached
our camping-ground, which is on the portage between Upper
Long Lake and Sugar-Bush Lake, on the evening of the
1 6th, thus having consumed two days in travelling towards
the moose country. This camp is situated about ten rods
from Upper Long Lake and ?* half-mile from Sugar-Bush
Lake. V/hile the guides were clearing the ground which
we had selected for our tent, they discovered a considerable
number of modern Indian relics. This discovery led them
to look about the spot more carefully, and a few minutes'
observation was sufficient to satisfy the whole party that

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

179

this ground had been occupied as an Indian camp within a
few years. The most of the large trees had then disap-
peared, but since tliat time a thiclc underbrush had sprung
up. Tiie captain remembered that an Indian tribe had
located here about ten years previously, engaged in the
manufacture of maple-sugar during a single season, and
then departed for parts to him unknown. It was this fact
which had given the name (Sugar-Bush) to the lake that
was situated about half a mile from our camp. We dis-
covered about here many old birch-bark vessels, some of
which were employed by them to receive the sap as it
came from the trees, and others that had evidently been
used to transport it from the trees to the spot where it
was evaporated, or " boiled down," as the backwoodsmen
say.

The weather during our stay in this camp, prior to
taking our departure for the reconnoissance, was exceed-
ingly changeable. One day it might rain. The next would
probably give us a variety; thus, in the morning it might be
cloudy, but before noon we might get rain, snow, and hail,
followed by a cold night and the formation of ice. In other
cases the rainfalls were accompanied with heavy thunder
and followed by warm sunshine. This sort of weather was
not encouraging to any party of sportsmen contemplating
cutting loose from their base, leaving behind them tents and
blankets, sleeping in the woods without shelter, and all this
exposure and hardship merely for the love of the chase.
Furthermore, the reader should at this point fully under-
stand that even now we are having very fine sport. Since
our arrival here we have killed many deer, have taken

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1 80

TJI£ SPORTSMAA/'S PARADISE;

many trout, and the photographer has kept our larder
amply supplied with ruffed grouse. In this camp our sup-
plies have been most plentiful, and I have been rather re-
luctantly compelled to think that our guides have very litde
anxiety to \!J forward ; but my wishes in this matter do not
harmonize with theirs. I came into this wilderness for the
special purpose of hunting the moose, and I am determined
to accomplish this object.

We find many moose-tracks in these woods ; we have
spent two days in trailing, but they have thus far eluded
us. I am satisfied, in my own mind, that we are scarcely
yet on the border of the Sportsman's Paradise. That
there is such a place I am not prepared to deny ; but the
all-important question at this moment is. How shall I now
reach it ? It is feared that the reader, at this moment, is
ready to assert that my faith is not well founded. I must,
therefore, ask him to keep silence for the time being, while
I assure him that I have studied this question very care-
fully since my arrival in Canada, and have still an abun-
dance of faith. Let the reader carefully review with me
the ground-work of my faith before he follows me on my
reconnoissance, because I wish him to become an enthusiast,
in order that he may enjoy this moose-hunt as I enjoyed
it. Therefore I will here confide to him the fact that, prior
to my departure for Canada in 1884, I had positively
learned that Captain Ross and his brother, Wellington,
had already killed several moose in this country. The
exact numb "^ I had not yet learned. After my arrival, I
ascertained from the captain that he had killed ten and his
brother had killed a somewhat smaller number. I now

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

I8l

endeavored to locate the place where these successes had
occurred, and, at the same time, to fix the limit or the ex-
treme range of the moose. Both the captain and Welling-
ton agreed that their successful moose-hunts had taken
place near the divide of the water-sheds of the Maganeta-
wan and Ottawa Rivers, about twenty-five miles west of
the source of the Petarwawa River. They were united
in asserting that they had killed their moose within a space
of less than two miles square, but they supposed that the
moose ranged over a space in this forest seventy-five miles
square. Wellington supposed the centre of the moose
region to be near the source of the Petarwawa River, and
he was inclined to urge us forward to ihat point as the
most desirable spot to commence our hunt.

The captain, however, opposed this suggestion on the
grounds that it would be almost impossible to transport,
from a point so distant, our trophies. It was also apparent
to me that, inasmuch as neither of my guides had ever
been in the Petarwawa country, it would probably be
better to keep on the ground with which the captain was
already familiar. The question which I raised in the early
part of my sojourn in the woods, during this hunt, was.
How shall we most advantageously locate the whereabouts
of moose in the greatest abundance? The fact was recog-
nized by all our party that the moose might be found
scattered over a very large portion of this territory, but
it was also unquestionably true that in certain districts
they would be found in large numbers, I had carefully
discussed, with the captain and his brother, the most prac-
tical method of starting a moose-hunt, and had suggested

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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to them the plan which was finally adopted, and designated
by us as a reconnoissance.

This plan, as adopted, required the consideration of
two very important subjects. It had been determined that
the reconnoissance should include the making of a circuit
of eighty or one hundred miles. The performance of this
task would require about four or five days. We have
already considered some of the questions pertaining to
the locality of the hunt, and have finally determined that
our circuit shall embrace the ground which has already
been so successfully hunted over by the captain and his
brother.

The next important question demanding our consider-
ation is, Where shall we abandon our tents and luggage?
The point selected for this purpose must be such as will
recommend it on account of its proximity to the ground
on which the hunt is to be made, while it is likewise
highly important that it should not be too far removed
from some point which is accessible to an ox-team and
jumper, inasmuch as the lakes and rivers will be frozen
over before our hunt is ended, and thus closed against our
canoes. These questions were all carefully discussed, and
the captain's thorough knowledge of the country enabled
him to determine for us all these highly-important points.
He assured me that our tents and other luggage could be
brought to a point about five miles distant from the nearest
settler's cabin, and there, he thought, we could obtain the
services of the ox-team and jumper. It should be re-
membered, however, by our readers who are unacquainted
with these grand forests, that some sort of a road must

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

183

exist in order to make the ox-team and jumper available
in these cases. The captain informed us that the road
which now terminated at the settler's cabin was only avail-
able for this sort of travel ; and we therefore determined
to move our camp from its present location forward to
Camp Lake, where we would be only about five miles from
Mr. Harkness's clearings, the nearest pioneer settler.
This movement was fmally postponed until after the re-
connoissance, for the reason that it was thought barely
possible that our discovery of moose in some unexpected
part of the forest might render some other base more
desirable. The arrangements for this reconnoissance con-
templated the maintenance of camp in our rear, where the
trophies of the hunt, the photographer's instruments, and
other luggage could remain safely in the care of Milden-
berger, while the captain, George Ross, and myself were
making our tour through this grand forest for the pur-
pose of determining the exact locality where the moose
were to be found in the greatest abundance. It therefore
became necessary for the guides, before our start, to pre-
pare the wood for Mr. Mildenberger (inasmuch as he had
not yet become expert in the use of the axe) which would
enable him to keep the fire burning during our absence.
It vvas also thought necessary to take enough bread to
serve the whole party through the entire reconnoissance.
Attempts at these preparatory efforts were often made last
week, but in every instance the work vvas interrupted by a
storm. The weather has been very unfavorable. Storm
after storm has interfered with our plans. I am now tired
of and impatient with these delays. I must soon push

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T//E SPORTSAfAN'S PARADISE:

forward the reconnoissance and thus put an end to this
anxiety and doubt, whether the weather becomes more
favorable or not, as I can no longer endure this suspense.
Deer-hunting has already become monotonous to me, and
I am determined to seek in this grand forest larger game,
otiier scenery, and new excitement in the chase.

1 am told by the captain that the exposure and fatigue
inseparable from moose-stalking is so great as to deter
many of the pioneer backwoodsmen from attempting to
participate in it. He pictures for me the discomforts that
may arise from a severe storm at this season of the year,
when we are separated from our tents and blankets, and
thus compelled to endure its merciless peltings after a long
and weary day's tramp. He reminds me of the fact that
when I first came into the Canadian forest, only a few years
since, I was scarcely able to endure the hardships ol an
ordinary deer-hunt, and then asks me, Can you nozu tramp
forty miles in. a day, sleep on the frozen ground at night,
and repeat this effort for several days continuously ? He
likewise kindly suggested that he, accompanied by George
Ross, could make this reconnoissance while I remained in
the camp with th^ photographer, and thus avoided the
hardships attendant on the discovery of the most favorable
locality for moose-hunting. It should here be remembered
by our readers that it was now, at this time, our intention
to discover the whereabouts of the game which we sought,
rather than to kill the same.

This proposition was rejected by the author, since it did
not harmonize with his wishes. He desired greater activity,
new sports, and changed surroundings.

on, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

185

■ed

The 23d day of October had been reached; our party
was still encamped on the portage between Upper Long
and Sugar-Bush Lakes ; the preceding night iiad been
cold and rainy, the morning was cold and cloudy, with oc-
casional gusts of wind accompanied by falls of snow and
hail. This damp, cold atmosphere is productive of a chilly,
disagreeable sensation which seems to permeate every part
of our bodies while we stand listlessly about our camp-
fire. These disagreeable sensations, coupled with autumn's
grave and cheerless surroundings, ha/e caused me to think
this morning of my fireside and family. The leafless trees,
sombre clouds, angry gusts of wind, and the pelting storms
do not commonly produce in me the most agreeable meiual
condiuons, but that morning I was especially gloomy. It
was therefore necessary that I should make some effort to
arouse myself from this horrible condition of despondency.
I could not bear the thought of remaining one day longer
inactive in camp. It was therefore necessary that we
should start immediately on our long-premeditated recon-
noissance, and start we did, although the weather was most
unpromising. The announcement to my guides that we
would make ready and leave our camp as soon as possible
was, I presume, owing to the unsettled state of the weather,
somewhat of a surprise; however, but little preparation was
now required, and before nine o'clock we took our de-
parture from camp. We started off in the direction of
Sugar-Bush Lake, and discovered a fresh moose-trail within
three hundred yards of our tent. These imprints of the
animal's feet left in the soft earth were so clear that we
were entirely satisfied as to his identity, and it was equally

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77^^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

certain that this traveller had crossed at this point during'
the previous night, since there were no tracks at this place
during the preceding day. The tracks indicated that the
animal had passed leisurely within a few rods of our tents
while we were probably sleeping, and near us there were at
that moment five dogs. This is the second moose which
has come within close proximity to us during the night
since we reached the Lower Long Lake. Having spent a
few moments in the examination of this trail, we then
started forward and soon reached Sugar-Bush Lake, where
v^e entered our canoes, paddled across, and were soon
tramping once more in the forest. Hail and rain, with fitf-il
gusts of v/ind, now alternated with each other, but my body
was warmed with the exercise and my spirits buoyed up in
anticipation of the grand and excidng chase or which we
expected so soon to enter. Sunshine was no longer neces-
sary for my happiness, and the " blue devils" which made
time hang so heavily on my har.ds in the morning had now
been driven off.

Our route this morning took us through a heavily-
wooded and somewhat hilly country, although our pro-
gress was not much impeded by underbrush, and this, in
fact, is generally true of the great forest in which we are
now journeying, except where we are so unfortunate as
to enter its swamps and low ground. We have, hereto-
fore, travelled through this forest in our canoes, keeping
on the lakes and rivers as long as this was practicable, en-
deavoring to avoid, so far as possible, long portages, but
the country in which we are now about making our recon-
noissance is not so well adapted to this mode of travel.

C/!, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

187

The lakes are less numerous and the portages are longer ;
and, furthermore, we could not, in this way, accomplish the
object of this movement, since we would not be brought
int contact with the evidences of the presence of moose,
which are generally found only in the forest.

The canoes we therefore abandoned on Sugar-Bush
Lake, and we now endeavored to follow the ridges and
high ground as much as possible. The captain is carrying,
this morning, a tomahawk, one tin cup, one coffee- or tea-
kettle, one rubber blanket, one single woollen blanket,
a small quantity of dried veni. jn, bread, coffee, tea, and
salt. The reader will now observe tliat we have aban-
don .1 nearly all our camp luggage, that we are not even
supplied with knives and forks, and possess only a single
cup from which to drink our coffee, although there are
three persons in the party. The captain estimates the
weight of his pack at fifteen pounds, and, therefore, may
be regarded as in light marching trim. He walked in front
of the party, George Ross and myself following behind,
sonietimes in true Indian file, while at others we fell into
position oil the right and left flanks. The captain's ad-
vance was at all times noiseless, while his keen and prac-
tised eye penetrated into every nook and corner. He
likewise listened to every sound, and instantly reconfnized
the voice of every bird and beast of the forest. The long
and active experience which he has had in the Canadian
forests has made him an expert in all matters pertaining
to woodcraft, trapping, and hunting. The morning's
journey passed without the occurrence of any incident
worthy of narration. At one o'cloc!: we halted oii a high

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TlfE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

ridge, which, at this moment, was whitened v/ith snow, and
started a small fire in order to prepare some coffee. A
fe V moments after this halt was made, George Ross dis-
covered a partridge standing on the ground about thirty
yards from him. He raised his Winchester rifle and fired
two shots at the bird's head. I then called to this guide
to stop shooting at the bird and give the captain and my-
self a chance. This he readily consented to do, and then
we took our two shots, but still the bird remained un-
harmed, and finally concluded to fly off without causing
the waste of more ammunition. This failure to kill our
game must be explained, I think, by the extreme politeness
of the bird, which continued to render obeisance to us by
unceasingly bowing its head from the moment when it was
first discovered until it flew away.

Lest the reader should, however, find himself inclined
to think that the failure was simply due to a want of skill,
which he may now imagine that he possesses, I will here
only venture to suggest that, when an opportunity offers,
he, too, should try, as an experiment, to decapitate, with a
rifle, an exceedingly polite partridge while it is constantly
bowing its head.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

189

CHAPTER X.

The First Dinner — Killed a Deer — Following a Moose-Trail — Camped on
THE Trail — Preparation for spending the Night — Our Lean-to — A
Snow-Storm — Long, Dreary Tramp — Discovery ok a Moose-Yard — A
Highly-Exciting Chase— Killed two Red Deer — A Disgusted and Angry
Captain— Honest Toil brings Refreshing Sleep — The Hunt resumed.

OFFEE having- been prepared, the captain
opened his pack, drew from it some dried
venison and cramper, a preparation which
is sometimes by courtesy called bread,
and then proceeded to distribute these
articles to the party. He then filled
the tin cup with hot coffee, passed the
same to me, and when I had taken a
drink of this delicious beverage I returned it to him,
and he proceeded to quench his thirst, and then passed
the cup to George Ross. In this manner the cup was
kept circulating, and we were thus supplied with our
coffee. The captain was the only individual in our party
supplied with a hunting-knife, George Ross and myself
were, however, provided with rather small pocket-knives ;
it will therefore be readily seen that the captain was
able to make the rough sections of dried venison and
cramper with his knife, while we could with our own im-
plements make the necessary subdivisions, and thus pre-
pare our food for mastication. Neither forks nor plates
had been provided for this reconnoissance ; fingers taking

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riTE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

the place of the former article, while a chip from a neigh-
boring tree, or a suitable piece of birch-bark, served as a
very good substitute for the latter. The earth, which we
commonly employed as a table, and which we likewise
used in lieu of camp-stools or chairs when taking our
meals, was now covered with snow, and consequently we
remained standing while taking this mid-day meal.

Ample justice having been done to the coffee, dried
venison, and cramper, and without waiting for dessert,
finger-bowl, or cigars, we moved forward. We had pro-
ceeded about one mile from the spot where the halt had
been made for our dinner when thf. captain, who was
leading the party, being only a few yards in advance of
George Ross and myself, raised his right hand as a signal
for us to come to a stand-still ; but he soon after beckoned
us to come forward to the spot where he stood. He had,
at the moment when he gave the signal to stop, just
reached a point near the top of a ridge, which we were
ascending, that enabled him to overlook this eminence and
obtain a view of another ridge, distant about one hundred
and fifty yards. The instant he gave this signal it was
plain to both George and myself that he had sighted game.
His manner at such times was always characteristic, and
could not Le misinterpreted by those who were familiar
with him. The instant he sighted game he would throw
up his right hand and then remain as motionless as a
marble statue, unless he desired to bring either George
or myself to his side ; but the second signal was sure to
follow the first during this reconnoissance, since the cap-
tain did not carry a gun.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

191

Promptly after the second signal was given, in this
instance, both George and myself were at the captain's
side. He now whispered in my ear, "There stands a fine
buck on the next ridge; what shall we do, kill him or
not?" Prior to our departure from the old camp this
morning I had told the captain that I preferred not to kill
game, except one bull moose, the head of which I desired
as a souvenir, unless the flesh could be used as food ;
hence this conversation, in which the captain urged the
slaughter, and I rather reluctantly consented to it. Al-
ready the novelty of deer-shooting had worn off with me,
having been in the woods now more than a month, and I
therefore found myself strongly disinclined to continue the
slaughter except to keep up the food-supply.

The captain's next inquiry was, *' Will you take the shot
or shall George have it?" My answer was in favor of
George, who now dropped quietly on his knee, drew a fine
bead on the animal, which was at this moment slowly walk-
ing along the ridge, and within a few seconds pulled the
trigger which sent the leaden pill from his trusty Winches-
ter rifle into the side of the beautiful creature, which had
not yet either scented or seen danger. The instant the
white puff of smoke was seen to issue from the muzzle of
the gun the deer leaped high in the air and bolted forward
with the speed of the wind, the motion of the animal being
now so rapid as to render his form indistinctly visible, but
after thus running about five hundred yards its movements
became perceptibly slower, more irregular, and it was evi-
dent that the bullet had struck a vital part. A moment
later the captain shouted, " He has fallen !" quickly after-

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rHE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE ;

wards, •' He is up again !" but scarcely had these sounds
passed away when the deer passed over a ridge and was
thus lost to view. We started promptly forward to the
spot where the animal had been seen to fall ; there we
found the ground covered with blood, and from this point
we could easily follow him by the bloody trail. He was
finally found dead on the slope of a hillock only a few
yards from the spot where he had been last seen.

It took the captain but a few moments to remove the
skin and cut from the carcass a choice piece of venison
sufficient for our supper and breakfast, when we were again
off on the tramp.

The storm had now ceased, a little later a bright sun-
shine had lighted up our pathway through the woods, the
snow which covered the fallen leaves rapidly disappeared,
while the fitful gusts of wind which prevailed in the morn-
ing v/ere entirely absent in the evening. The morning and
the early part of the afternoon had passed without the dis-
covery of any fresh moose signs, but our search was re-
warded later in the day, when we struck a very promising
trail. The herd consisted of three animals, presumed to be
one bull and two cows, but I think there is a certain amount
of uncertainty in the prognosticating of the sex, since it is
entirely based on the size of the track made by the animal.
We discovered that these animals had been browsing near
the point where we struck their trail, and furthermore, the
tracks had evidently been made since the snow had melted
off. Both these discoveries were very encouraging, since
the moose commonly lies down after eating, and conse-
quendy the hunter reasonably expects to find him within a

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

193

short distance of the last feeding-ground, while in this in-
stance the snow had disappeared within the hour preceding
our arrival on the trail.

The captain having familiarized himself with all these
peculiarities of the trail, speedily and forcibly enjoined upon
us the necessity of moving forward with the greatest de-
gree of caution, lest by a careless step a noise might be
made which would frighten away the game that we now
sought. We are now in a high state of excitement. The
grandest game in the Canadian forest is now almost within
our reach. Our hearts are beating strongly ; hope buoys us
up ; the long tramp of the day is forgotten ; we feel no
fatigue and fear no failure. The captain creeps along
through the brush, over the fallen trees, over the rotten
twigs, which are frequently so well hidden by fallen leaves
as to be wholly imperceptible, but there is no sound pro-
duced by his movements. He trails game as cautiously as
the cat follows the mouse. The sportsman who attempts
to follow hin should keep well in his rear, but within easy
hearing distance, so that in the first instance the game may
not be frightened by a mis-step, and secondly that he may
be able to come quickly into position when shooting is to
be done.

Having spent about two hours on this moose-trail,
which was at first very circuitous, but which finally lost
much of this peculiarity, we were reluctantly compelled to
halt in order to make the necessary preparations for
spending the night; we therefore encamped on this trail,
with the intention of following it up in the morning. The
first thing done was the selection of a suitable spot on

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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which to erect our lean-to. The place selected for this
purpose was by the side of the body of an old fallen tree,
where the ground was favorable for our bed, — free from
stone, etc. The body of this tree formed a wall, which
was about two feet high, for the lean-to ; and, inasmuch as
it rested firmly on the ground at this point, effectually kept
out the wind on this side of it. The next thing done was
the preparation of four poles, employed to support the
roof, which consisted of a rubber cloth, the dimensions of
which were about five by seven feet. The poles were
about ten feet in length, with a diameter at the base of
two and a half inches and something less than one inch at
the top. The poles, properly sharpened at the base, were
driven into the ground on the side of the trunk of the
fallen tree opposite to the one on which we intended to
make our bed, and the distance was so chosen that when
these supports rested on this wall, which served as a ful-
crum, or prop, the anterior portion of our roof was raised
about four feet above the ground. The rubber cover was
then placed over these poles and made fast by the use of
shoe-strings, that we had brought with us, after which the
ends of our habitation were closed by evergreen boughs,
selected for this purpose. It will now be seen by the
reader that the lean-to has been so constructed as to close
the sides of it against the wind, and that only the front
remains open, before which there is placed a fire, which
is kept burning during the whole night, and which may be
easily so managed as to supply the requisite amount of
heat. It was still necessary to provide wood for the fire
and balsam twigs for the bed. This was promptly done,

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

195

the wood being placed in such a position as to occasion
little inconvenience to put it on the fire when it was re-
quired, while the twigs were arranged in the most ap-
proved style for the bed. The next order of business
consisted in the preparat' n of the evening meal, which
was composed of venison, coffee, and bread. The fresh
venison was cut into suitable pieces and then roasted on
the spits over our fire, while the coffee was prepared in
the usual manner. The fresh deer-skin was brought into
use as a partial cover (although the only one we pos-
sessed) for the balsam twigs composing our bed. Having
completed our evening meal, we then took such positions
about the fire as enabled us to dry our clothing, after
which we made ready to retire by simply removing our
boots, which is done as a precautionary act to prevent the
destruction of the same by fire. The balance of the
wardrobe is retained on our bodies as an additional pro-
tection against cold, since we only possess a single blanket
with which to cover the whole party. The author has
d'^tailed thus minutely the preparations made for spending
the first night while we were out on our reconnoissance,
and this will answer for the succeedingr ones while we were
thus engaged.

I suffered somewhat from the cold during the night,
especially my feet, but my body was pretty well protected
by sleeping between the captain and George Ross. The
first part of the night was comparatively warm, but before
the dawn of day it became very cold, and ice formed nearly
or quite an inch thick on the little pools of water near us.

Thus terminates the record of the first day spent on

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our reconnoissance, while the second begins with the fol-
lowing entries :

Friday, October 24. — We encamped last night on the
moose-trail, but it is obliterated this morning by a slight
fall of snow. The leaves were wet last evening, but are
firmly frozen now • consequently the slightest movement
in walking is attended with a degree of noise entirely in-
compatible with success in still-hunting. There is no
possibility of our killing game until we are able to move
about more quietly. The storm continues, — fine, hard
flakes of snow, closely allied to hail, are falling about us,
and producing considerable noise by coming in contact
with the frozen leaves and various parts of the forest-trees.
The morning was dark and gloomy, but we started off on
our tramp soon after daylight, having eaten our breakfast
while it was yet dark.

The entire party is in good spirits, and, notwithstanding
the severe and prolonged efforts made yesterday, there is
no complaint of fatigue or other ill effects arising from
our tramp. The author found himself somewhat annoyed,
however, by the entrance of snow into all the crevices of
his clothing, especially about his neck, where it was con-
standy melting, and the cold water gravitating downward
over the various parts of his body. Under more favorable
circumstances the remedy for this annoyance would have
been very easy ; but no man in our party is, at this time,
in possession of a handkerchief, and consequeiitly " the ills
which cannot be cured must be endured."

During the whole forenoon the storm continued, and
at one o'clock, when we halted for our lunch, the ground

on, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

197

was everywhere covered to the depth of about two inches
with snow. Thus far the day has passed without the oc-
currence of any important events. In fact, we have seen
only a single deer-trail, no ruffed grouse, and only two red
squirrels. The conditions for still hunting have, however,
gradually improved, until now we are able to travel without
much noise. Our party is cheerful ; there is no despond-
ency, although the prospect for sport is not flattering, in-
asmuch as the storm causes game to remain under cover.
Dinner consisted of dried venison, bread, and coffee. The
last of our fresh venison was consumed at breakfast this
morning. The midday meal was partaken of in the same
manner as that already described in connection with the
first day's tramp, and consequently it need not be more
fully detailed here. The start was made promptly after
the completion of this repast, inasmuch as we were less
comfortable while standing than when walking.

We have walked rapidly since our start to-day, have
not turned aside for any purpose, and are off at the same
pace and pushing forward in the same direction. About
two o'clock in the afternoon we altered our general course
from northeast to west, and continued in the latter direc-
tion until nearly three o'clock, when we struck a fresh
moose-trail. Here began the most excidng chase it has
ever been my good fortune to participate in, one in which
our party saw not less than twenty moose, fired probably
thirty shots, killed two red deer, but absolutely failed with
the larger game. The following of the moose-trail, which
we first discovered this afternoon, led us w* nin twenty
minutes into a large moose-yard, where the tracks of these

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r/r/^ sroRTSAfAN's paradise;

animals were as numerous as the tracks of cows about a
large dairy-barn soon after the first fall of snow in autumn.
Here was probably about one acre of this forest which
had been so thoroughly tracked over within an hour that
it was wholly impossible to follow out the trail of any par-
ticular animal, on account of the numerous intersections
and obliterations caused by the wanderings of this nu-
merous herd.

Slowly, cautiously, and stealthily the captain moves
over this yard. He discovers every bush which has been
cropped, every tree that has been peeled, and does not
even neglect to examine the evacuations: these he finds are
still warm, George Ross and myself follow closely behind
the captain. Our anticipations are now of the most de-
lightful sort ; the gods are favoring us ; the storm ceased
just before we discovered the moose-trail, and now the
conditions are most favorable for the chase. Nature has
provided a carpet which deadens the sounds that would
otherwise be made by our foot- falls ; the same covering
leaves the impress made by the animals' feet, while the
clouded sky enables us to behold objects equally well in
any direction. We had now reached on the outskirts of
the yard a point where seven tracks diverged from the
common centre, and this trail we had followed only a short
distance when the captain turned to me, whispered in my
ear, " These moose have been here within thirty minutes ;
follow me slowly ; make no noise !" I was momentarily
puzzled by the positive assertion of my guide.

How could he so positively say, "These moose have
been here within half an hour?" A glance at the tracks

OR, TltE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

199

afforded the explanation. These imprints did not contain
a single flake of snow ; and then'fore it is evident that
they have been made since the storm ceased. The captain
now asked me to keep close to him, in order that I mij^ht
be in a position to fire on the game the instant it was
discovered. This request '/as cheerfully granted. The
movements of the captain now became still more cautious,
while George Ross and myself followed the exauiple of
our leader. Slmvly and cautiously wj moved forward.
Every object, whether near or distant, if luithin the limit of
our vision, was carefully scanned. Twenty minutes have
elapsed since we discovered that this trail had been made
after the storm ceased. At this instant the captain's right
hand is raised. // is a signal for these who follow him to
halt and remain silent. It is obeyed with alacrity. The
captain peers steadily for a few seconds into the forest.
I was standing only a few feet behind him. He beckoned
me, with a slight movement of his hand, to come to his
side. The request was promptly obeyed. At this instant
I photographed the expression of his face, which still re-
mains indelibly impressed on my mind. His eyes were
fixed and glared intently on the game which he had just
discovered. His lips were tightly closed, his teeth com-
pletely hidden. The muscles of his face were rigidly fixed,
exhibiting the most intense excitement and resolute determi-
nation. His body was as immovable as a statue. Ke noio
sharply whispered, " Don't you see them ? There I there ! they
are running I Fire, fire at them !" I had not been able
to get a glimpse of the he. J, although they were standing
huddled together not more than one hundred yards from

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77/5 SPOJ^TSMAN'S PARADISE.

me, until they began to move ; and then it was only a few
seconds until their bodies seemed like shadows flying
tlirough the woods, on account of the rapidity of their
movement?. The fact that the captain was the best rifle-
shot in our party had been already conceded. We all
locognized his ability, including both the accuracy and
rapidity with which his shots were delivered. Neither was
he ignorant of his prowess, or in the least averse to chaffing
those who might not possess his skill ; consequendy I had
determined, prior to our departure from our camp, near
Sugar Bush I-ake, that I would give him the doubtful shots
an ' take the more certain ones. The reader should now
remember that the captain is not provided with a rifle ; but
I now acted promptly on my conservative resolution and
quickly passed him my Ballard rifle, saying, "Take the
shot ! Fire away !" He seized the gun and instantly fired.
Another cartridge is placed in position and quickly dis-
charged at the retreating herd. The Ballard is dropped
to the ground and the captain shouted to his nephew,
"Give me your Winchester!" This request was promptly
complied with ; the captain was now in the possession of
the desired rifle with a full magazine, and instantly started
on a full run after the game. Behold his rapid strides!
The best Indian runner would have been distanced by him
in this chase. George has caught up my rifle ; we both
follow at our best speed ; he leads us from the start and
gains on us rapidly; bang! bang! goes the captain's rifle
while he is still running. He had run about eight hundred
yards, when he suddenly stopped, raised his gun, and de-
liberately took aim, firing four shots during this halt.

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George Ross and myself arrived on the spot while the
sound of the last was reverberating through the foreLt. We
saw at this instant a bull moose, which had been standing
about one hundred yards from our leader, start forward on
a run. This bull had evidently belonged to the first xierd
that we discovered ; had been prompted by curiosity to
halt in order to get a better view of his pursuers ; had
already received the polite attention of the captain, but
now triumphantly moved off. The captain was certainly
greatly excited and greatly disgusted, probably because
the old bull paid so little attention to the demand which
he had made upon him to halt; but not a full minute
elapsed after the cessation of this firing when another
herd of these animals, which we had not previously seen,
started up about three hundred yards to the right of the
trail made by the herd that we had been following, al-
though the latter were, at the moment of their start,
slightly in the rear of the spot where we were standing.
Another race now ensued, which was no less exciting
than the former. The instant that the captain heard the
sounds they made wh'le rushing through the woods, lie in-
stantly dropped his pack, which he had carried during th(>
whole of the first race, and was off in the twinkling of an
eye. The course taken by these animals led us down the
gentle slope of a long hill ; consequently I was enabled
to keep nearer to our leader, although still falling con»
siderably in his rear.

At the base of the slope there was found a snail brook,
which the captain crossed in this race. Having crossed
the stream, the captain threw up his hand as a signal for

msBmgm

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

203

me to approach him more cautiously, and quickly com-
menced firing again. He discharged his rifle four times
in rapid succession, from this point, at a full-grown cow
that was standing not more than seventy-five yards from
him, although partially hidden from his view by an inter-
vening evergreen. This animal now, in entire disregard
of these polite attentions, started off on a shambling trot,
and was followed by George Ross, who continued to blaze
away at varying intervals during a chase which was kept
up for nearly a mile, when it bet^ame apparent to the pur-
suer that the old cow was getting the best of the race.
When this animal passed beyond the reach of the captain's
bullets, it is putting it very mildly to say that he was dis-
gusted with the results. This feeling of disgust was visible
in all his movements, as well as in his facial expressions.
Words were not adequate to express his feelings. Having
remained silent a few minutes, he suggested that we pro-
ceed to the spot where the cov/ was standing when he
fired the shots, and make an examination of the surround-
ings. This was now done, but only increased his feelings
of disgust; inasmuch as we failed to find the slln^htest
trace of injury to the animal, not even a single drop of
blood or a lock of hair, on the newly-fallen snow, although
there was the unmistakable impress of the i^nimal's feet
in it. In this examination only a single point was settled
in the affirmative, to our mutual satisfaction, viz., the cap-
tain had undoubtedly been firing at a living moose, a.id
not at an apparition, which might have been conjured up
in certain brains. Let the reader, however, here unde*--
stand that the captain is not a sportsman against whom

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TITE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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such a charge could be well maintained. His habits are
above reproach ; he neither drinks nor smokes, and in all
things is a plain matter-of-fact person, not e' zn given to
fiction nor any sort of exaggeration. Having completed
the examination of this spot, we turned slowly away from
it and walked side by side, possibly about ten rods, when
the captain discovered a fine buck that had been feeding
within fifty yards of us. I saw this beautiful animal a few
seconds later than my guide.

The captain said, "Let me now try my skill on this
deer since I have failed on the moose." The rifle was
then raised ; the captain took an unusually long time in
taking aim, but the gun was finally discharged ; the buck
sprang high into the air, and all was quiet once more.

The captain quickly remarked, " I killed that deer, al-
though I have so surprisingly failed to-day with the
moose." There had been considerable delay after the
shooting. Our conversation, in the mean while, had not
related to this buck ; in fact, neither of us thought much
of this affair, but we naturally conversed on the more ex-
citing chase of the moose ; consequently, w'len we went
in search of the carcass, it was not until after much delay
that we could find even the spot where the animal stood
when the shot was fired. Having at first been baffled in
our search, we returned to the spot where we were stand-
ing when the shot was delivered, took our directions from
this point, then found the animal's tracks in the snow, but
were Still unable to find his body ; however, when we
circled around these imprints, we found the object of our
search within twenty feet of the point where he had re-

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA,

205

ceived his death wound. He had made but a single leap
and fallen dead. The deer was promptly skinned, and a
choice piece selected for our present wants, after which the
balance of the carcass was left behind for the use of the
wolves. We now retraced our steps to the point where
the captain had dropped his pack, when he started on the
second moose chase. Here George Ross joined us and
reported in glowing terms the incidents of his race, and
the various causes of its failure. He regrett^jd that his
feet were not encased in moccasins instead of the heav^y
boots that he was then wearing, and assured us with much
confidence that, had he been thus attired, he should cer-
tainly have provided himself with a hairy overcoat, which
the old cow would now probably continue to wear, instead
of himself, during the coming winter.

This young man talked wildly about the overcoat which
he had barely failed to secure, and romanced nearly every
day on this subject as long as he remained in the woods
with us. The storm now recommenced, — snow falling once
more, — night was approaching; the lean-to must be put
up, wood and boughs gathered, and our frugal meal pre-
pared. The captain desired to take one more look for
game before darkness covered the earth. He was not
satisfied with the results of his shooting during the after-
noon. He wished to make an effort immediately, to re-
deem his good name ; consequently, after having urged
George and your humble servant to make the necessary
preparation for the night, he sallied forth once more in
quest of moose.

He had not expressed, either to George or myself, his

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

wishes on this subject, but his manner indicated plainly the
thoughts which were uppermost, — even the desires of his
heart. Both George and myself set about the performance
of the task that had been assigned to us. This labor was
agreeable, — better far than standing still in the wild storm
and allowing ourselves to be buried beneath the falling
snow.

One hour of brisk activity found us prepared for the
evening meal and awaiting the captain's return. The
twilight of the evening had gathered around us, when we
heard the captain's rifle discharged twice, — the second shot
following the first so quickly that George had been unable
to complete the exclamation, " He is after them again,"
before he was interrupted by the second sound. The
question now raised by George was, " What has the cap-
tain killed ?" It was thought probable that the firing had
been occasioned by the discovery of a moose, since these
animals were certainly more numerous on this ground than
the red deer ; but it was not by any means certain that the
captain had killed one of the kings of the forest.

It was nearly half an hour after these shots were heard
when the captain returned to our camp-fire. His face was
livid with rage and he stormed like a sailor, but no words
of profanity passed his lips. Neither George nor myself
ventured to attempt any sort of conversation with him, and
he ratded on wildly, — " I will never hunt moose again ! If
these guns were my property I would break them over the
nearest tree and start for home to-morrow morning !" On,
still on, he went! After the storm had raged in all its
fury for half an hour he cooled off slightly, and then nar-

on, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA,

207

rated to us occurrences which had taken place after his
separation from us. He said, " I discovered, very soon
after leaving you, another herd of moose, in which there
were two large bulls ; succeeded in getting within fifty
yards of one of these animals, which was standing with his
head towards me ; no other part of his body being visible
at this time. I was unwilling to fire at the forehead lest
the ball should glance from the bone without doing any
signal service. I determined, therefore, to wait a more
favorable opportunity when the game moved from its pres-
ent cover, — hoping he would then present for my shot a
more vulnerable part of his body. I had not long to wait
when the movement was made ; but, to my great disgust,
the moose so turned as to become immediately and en-
tirely invisible to me, and I could not again secure a
glimpse of this fleeing animal ; in the mean while, all the
other members of this herd had made their escape." The
captain here added, " Was not this luck enough to make
a saint swear?" The interrogatory which immediately
followed was, "What did you shoot at?" *' I had started
to come in when an old buck jumped up before me. I
fired at him ; the first shot broke his leg, and the second
brought him to a full halt. It was then nearly dark and
1 did not stop to skin him, but will attend to that in the
morning."

Thus ended the day's chase, and as supper was now
ready, we proceeded to refresh ourselves as the next order
of business. The performance of this labor produced a
most salutary effect on our worthy captain. The angry
expression I had observed on his face immediately after

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r//E SPORXr.MAN'S PARADISE,'

his return to our camp-fire had now been replaced with a
pleasant smile. The terrible blizzard had passed away,
and instead of the raging storm we now had sunshine.
It v/as now perfectly safe to chaff the captain on his want
of success, — a pastime that he greatly enjoyed, when it
was done at some other person's expense, — and it should,
likewise, be acknowledged that he had always previously
patiently submitted to this treatment when we were so
fortunate as to have an opportunity to make the applica-
tion. Such an excellent opportunity to cancel the old
score had never before offered since I had been in our
leader's company.

I now ventured to suggest to the captain that he was a
dead shot whenever he drew a bead on a bird or deer,
but he was not so sure of his game when he sought to kill
a moose. The captain willingly admitted that the results
of the chase during the day seemed to justify my conclu-
sion ; and furthermore assured me that he would do no
more moose-shooting while h( was accompanied by George
Ross and myself, but leave that part of the sport to us.

The evening was spent pleasantly under our lean-to,
while a grand wood fire burned in front of it, although the
snow continued to fall and was driven by the wind into
every part of our imperfect shelter. We passed the night
comfortably, — slept soundly, were thoroughly refreshed,
and made ready for work the next morning. The earliest
dawn of day found us busied with the preparation of the
morning meal. The ground was now covered with snow
to the depth of nearly five inches, although the prevail-
ing wind had kept it from collecting upon the trees.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

209

We have determined to spend the morning in search
of moose in the vicinity where we discovered them yes-
terday. The captain thinks it probable that there may
still be some herds which have remained undisturbed on
these feeding-grounds. The whole forenoon was spent
without sighting the object which we sought. It was
sjc«rcely light this morning when we started from our
camp. The captain led us prompdy to the spot where
he had shot the old buck on the previous evening. We
found him buried beneath the snow, and quickly removed
his skin, which was added to the captain's pack. We then
proceeded to search diligently for moose, — found a single
trail, — followed it about two miles, having started him from
his bed during the tramp ; but, inasmuch as the wind wai^
unfavorable, he scented us from afar and was off without
affording us even a momentary glance at his lordship's
person. The storm had ceased before we left the camp
this morning, although it was still cloudy, but the sun came
out towards noon without producing any visible effect upon
the snow, since it was yet cold. We returned to the camp
where we had spent the previous night soon after twelve
o'clock, prepared our dinner; discovered that our bread
and coffee were exhausted, and therefore decided to start
immediately for our camp near Sugar-Bush Lake. The
captain thought we might succeed in reaching this point
some time during the forenoon of the next day. It was
with feelings of despondency that we moved away from
the scenes of our recent chase, that had afforded us much
pleasurable excitement, although we had failed to secure
the coveted prize.

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

CHAPTER XI.

The Discovery of Moose — The Killixo of two Moosk and the Wounding
OF Another — Our Camp on Moose Hill — The Return to Sugar-Bush
Lake — A vSevere Rain Storm— Return to Moose Hill— The Dead Moosb
Photographed— Another Expedition — The Bear — A Snow-Storm — A
Hard Tramp.

T was now thought impossible
that we should find another op-
portunity to engage in a moose-
chase during this reconnois-
sance, and consequently we
began to look about us for
smaller game. We arrived at
Trout Lake about half-past two o'clock ; discovered a flock
of ducks ; fired several shots at them, and then started to
walk around this body of water, which was surrounded by
a cranberry marsh, but had proceeded only a few rods when
the captain, who was in advance, discovered a fresh moose-
track. It was finally determined, after a brief consultation,
to follow this trail a short distance, in order to determine
the prospect of success, while our further movements
would depend entirely on the result of this investigation.
Consequently the captain threw down his pack and took
the lead in this movement. The trail led directly from the
lake into a cedar swamp which bordered on the cranberry
marsh. This swamp was filled with fallen trees, a dense

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

211

underbrush, and stagnant pools of water. We had not
followed the trail more than twenty rods when it was dis-
covered that the old bull moose had been joined by two
cows, and the trio had been very recently feeding in the
swamp. The captain was much elated by this discovery,
and confidently expressed the opinion that these animals
would be discovered lying down near the spot where the
browsing had taken place. Our leader was in high spirits ;
rapidly and noiselessly passed over all obstructions ; sighted
and carefully examined every object in the neighborhood
of the trail which we were following.

He soon emerged from the swamp and commenced the
ascent of a hill where there were fewer obstructions to our
progress, but prior to his reaching this point the author
of these pages had fallen about six or seven rods to the
rear of i\\i leader, although George Ross had succeeded
in keeping somewhat nearer.

The captain's advance is now much more cautious ; he
evidently expects to find the moose on this high ground.
He takes a few steps forward, then halts, carefully surveys
every object within the range of his vision, and has thus
approached within about seventy-five or eighty yards of
the summit of the hill which we are climbing. He has
suddenly halted again, and at the same instant thrown out
his right hand as a signal to his followers to be more cau-
tious in their movements. George Ross has cautiously
moved forward to his side ; but the gaze of our leader has
remained steadily fixed on some object in the immediate
front. He stands as immovable as the trunks of the great
forest-trees with which we are surrounded. Behold him I

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THE SPORTS MAN' 5: PARADISE.

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he is nmv ivhispering to his nepheiv ! I know he hxs sighted
game. A moment later he beckoned to me to come fonoard ;
repeats this signal tivo or three times before I reached his
side. In the mean time young Ross has raised his rijie and
stands ivith it raised in readiness for instantaneous action.
I reached the captain's side; he seized my arm and drew
me about ten feet to the left of George Ross ; had not yet
spoken a word ; but now whispered, " See that moose
standing behind the underbrush? Fire at him!" Before
I had time to raise my ritle (ieorge Ross had fired his first
shot. The object which had been pointed out to me by the
captain as a moose was almost completely hidden by the
underbrush, only a small portion of the animal's flank
being visible. The aim was taktn at this part; the shot
was fired ; the animal now quickly changed his position
and presented to me his rump. The captain was standing
at my side ; the instant the first shot was fired he shoved
another cartridge into my rifle ; I dropped quickly on my
knee, took very deliberate aim, and forwarded my com-
pliments once more. The animal at which this shot was
fired now disappearei before I had sufficient time to reload
my rifle.

I now ran a few feet to the right of George Ross, who
had remained stationary and continued to shoot rapidly.
From this new position I caught sight of another moose,
and fired another shot. Game was no longer visible from
the spot where we were standing, and consequently we
started up the hill at our best speed. A few seconds later
our entire party was standing about the dead cow, on
which George Ross had expended his fusillade. She had

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never moved from the spot where she was standingr when
young Ross fired his first shot; when unable to stand
longer she fell on the, opposite side of a log and was thus
lost to his view. The captain glanced momentarily at the
dead animal, raised his head to survey the surroundings,
discovered the old bull which I had mortally wounded, and
instantly exclaimed, "See the old monsier!" This was
the signal for a new start ; our party rushed forward until
we were within about twelve feet of this animal's head,
which he now lowered, and at the same time uttered a low
bellow that greatly resembled the angry threatenings of
an enraged bull. The captain instantly caught hold of my
arm, as if to keep me from danger, but I scarcely think
this precaution was necessary, since I had already observed
the angry warnings given by the old forest king.

The captain having warned me of the danger, now
leaped into the air, danced like a school-boy, seized me
by the hand, offered his congratulations, while his face was
wreathed in joyous smiles.

The scenes enacted here reminded me of those which
I had witnessed many years ago on the battle-fields during
the war of the Rebellion, when the staid generals became
boys once more after gaining important victories. Well do
I still remember the many manifestations of joy which fol-
lowed Sheridan's victory at Cedar Creek, Virginia. Gen-
erals Sheridan, Custer, Torbert, and many other gallant
officers in the Federal army were boys that day, when they
loarned the extent of their victory. It is hoped that the
reader will pardon this wide digression from our subject
and return with me to the summit of the hill in that grand

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

215

forest, where these moose were slain, since a careful de-
scription of the scenes enacted here will not fail to interest
any sportsman.

Already the shooting has been described which occurred
on the slope of this hill while the moose were standing on
its summit; and there remains little to be said of the old
cow, since life was extinct before we reached the spot
where she fell. The bull, when discovered, was about
four or five rods distant from the point where the cow
iiad fallen. He was at this moment standing on his fore-
feet, dragging his hind limbs along on the ground,
endeavoring occasionally to get once more into the natural
standing position, but all these efforts were fruitless. The
poor animal had been paralyzed by the ball that had been
fired at his rump, and passed upward, wounding the spiral
cord in the lumbar region. The appearance of the old
bull was not only pitiful but likewise savage at this mo-
ment. He was so severely wounded that he could not
escape from his enemies, or even make that defence which
his gigantic proportions declared him fitted for under
more favorable circumstances. The size of the animal
may be inferred from the fact that he was found to meas-
ure between the top of his shoulders and the bottom
of his hoofs seventy-eight and one-half inches, while his
symmetrical antlers showed a spread of nearly six feet.
We viewed this noble beast while he was yet alive ; the
hair on his whole body was standing erect, thus naturally
increasing the apparent size of the animal and like-
wise giving to him a more savage aspect. The long,
erect hair, covering the top of the shoulders, increased the

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seeming height of the moose at least six or eight inches ;
and the same remark is equally applicable, except in
degree, to the other parts of the body. The wild boar,
in his own forest garb, could not present a more frightful
appearance tlian did the king of the Canadian wilderness
at this moment. It is true that this bull could not present
the same formidable tusks, but his great antlers and mag-
nificent proportions more than compensated for all that
was wanting. Notwithstanding the fact that he wa~ so
severely wounded as to be able to make but vt-iy i.tiie
progress in his efforts to escape, still our party remained
at a very respectful distance from his antlers. Our first
attention having been given to the personal appearance of
this animal, our succeeding thoughts were directed to the
relief of his sufferings, and for this purpose I sent a ball
through him a few inches behind his shoulders. This last
shot produced no marked effect ; therefore I quickly fired
another shot a little behind the base of his skull, which frac-
tured the upper portion of the vertebral column and like-
wise wounded the medulla oblongata, which injury was
followed by instantaneous death. The captain proceeded
to disembowel the animals we had killed ; and while thus
enraged discovered '.hat another cow had been wounded
by our shots, but had succeeded in getting away. His quick
eye promptly detected three fresh beds in the newly-fallen
snow, and likewise that the trail from two of them led to
the dead animals, which were now lying only a few yards
from the same, while the other led away from the scene of
action. The latter trail was well marked by the blood-
stains left by the fleeing animal. It was instantly decided

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

217

that we should follow up this trail. The blood-stains V
were numerous about the bed from which the cow #
had so recently risen, and the white snow was found ^M,
to be copiously marked during the first half-mile /Jy M^
of the trail ; but after this distance had been sy^W^
r-assed over these markings were less numer- v% 1,',^
ous. It was confidently thought by our guides, "' ', Vj^^i^
while we were making the first part of our ^"^r^^"
journey along this trail, that we would soon
find her lifeless body; but we continued 1' W^
our search until warned by the near ap-
proach of sunset that we ought
to retrace our steps and make

The dead monarch.

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the required preparation for the night. The pack, which
the captain was carrying at the moment when he discovered
the moose-track near Trout Lake, still remained where he
had then dropped it. It was with some regrets that we
started on this retrograde movement, since we still thought
that another hour spent in the search would probably be re-
warded by the capture of the wounded animal. Neverthe-
less, we were greatly cheered by the results that had already
been obtained, and we now retraced our steps with light
hearts and speedy action. While thus retracing our steps
we were naturally led to take a retrospective view of our
doings during the day. In the morning we had started
from our camp in jjyful anticipation of successes just about
to be realized. These pleasant anticipations were the natu-
ral outgrowth of the discovery of several herds of moose
in the vicinity of our camp on the previous day. We had
set forth in the morning in full expectation that before noon
we should be able to kill one or more moose ; at one
o'clock we had returned to our camp sadly disappointed by
a complete failure. In the afternoon, while wearily trudg-
ing along without any seemingly reasonable expectation of
discovering the prize we sought, we had fortunately struck
the single trail, which being followed, soon brought us to
the full realization of our most joyous anticipations. Such
are the results obtained in our various pursuits in life by
industrious and persevering labor, which in the end brings
its reward, although the prize is frequently attained when
least expected. Dame Nature is apparently an inveterate
coquette, who must be industriously and perseveringly
courted for a long time, when she will turn, at some un-

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

219

un-

expected moment, and most graciously receive our caresses,
thus adding surprise to conquest. Before sunset we reached
the scene of our recent shooting, and made the neces-
sary preparation for the night. The pack was promptly
brought to the spot, the lean-to erected, wood and balsam
boughs gathered, after which the moose-meat — which con-
stituted our entire meal — was cooked.

We no longer had either bread, tea, or coffee. Thus
the sportsman may be compelled to live, but what is the
odds so long as you are happy ? This was certainly the
most joyful night spent by us during the whole reconnois-
sance. We had already accomplished more than we ex-
pected when we left our camp near Sugar-Bush Lake ; had
not only determined the whereabouts of the moose, but
had actually slain two fine animals, a male and a female.

The early part of this evening was spent in recounting
the exploits of the day, and the balance of the night in
refreshing slumber, — a blessing almost unknown to the
drudging professional slaves of the city. We arose early
the following morning, and while it was yet dark began
our preparations for the return to the old camp. The
dead moose were well covered with brush, in order that
the wild animals might not deface them before the photog-
rapher had completed his part of the work. The moose-
meat was prepared, our breakfast eaten, and we were
again off on our homeward tramp. The sun soon made
its appearance ; the weather had moderated, and all now
went merry as a marriage bell. The partridge were found
to-day in great abundance and afforded us much sport.
We were no longer troubled because of their excessive

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2 20

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

TTT

Wi.

politeness, but they behaved in the most approved manner,
and permitted us to knoclc off their heads with the rifle-
balls without uttering the slightest murmur. We had
bagged before noon a half-dozen of these fine game-birds.
During the first part of the tramp we saw only a single
red deer and very few traces of moose, but when within
about three miles of the old camp moose-tracks were once
more found to be quite numerous ; however, we now spent
no time in search of these animals. We reached our camp
near Sugar-Bush Lake about one o'clock, October 26, and
the captain promptly 1 repared our dinner. We had now
reached our supplies ; found ourselves in possession of an
abundance of flour, coffee, tea, sugar, etc. Mr. Milden-
berger was absent from camp when we arrived, but re-
turned about half-past three o'clock, and was delighted to
find us in possession of the tent. He immediately inquired
in regard to the success of the reconnoissance, and when
informed on this subject was greatly pleased. He ex-
pressed a desire to start promptly for the scene of the
moose-hunt, in order that he might photograph these
animals where they had fallen. It was now so late in the
day that the other members of the party thought better
to postpone this movement until a later period. The
captain had evidently changed his mind in regard to
moose-hunting during the last forty-eight hours, since he
picked up the Winchester rifle very soon after our dinner
and declared his intention to start off in search of the king
of the forest. He was absent from our camp about three
hours, when he r«».turiied and reported having seen one
moose, at which he fired a shot but did not kill the animal.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA,

221

The small lakes around us are completely frozen over, but
the weather is rapidly moderating this afternoon. The
clouds are gathering and there are other indications of a
rain-storm. The following day found us confined to our
tents by the pouring rain. This storm continued twenty-
four hours and the snow entirely disappeared. The ad-
vance movement commenced on the morning of the 28th
of October.

This change of base is made with the intention of
bringing our luggage into a more favorable position for
leaving the forest after the closure of the lakes and rivers
with ice. Another reason prompting this action at the
present time is connected with the fact that in returning
to Moose Hill, where we killed the moose, we must neces-
sarily pass Camp Lake ; and therefore we have concluded
to take with us all our luggage to this point, where we will
erect our tent, store such articles as may not be required
for the balance of our journey, chain the dogs, place within
their easy reach so much food as may be required for their
sustenance during our absence, and then proceed to the end
of the contemplated journey, make the desired negatives,
gather up the trophies and bring them back to our base,
from which all future operations will be conducted.

The rain-storm ceased during the preceding night, but
the morning on which the movement began was cloudy.
We crossed Sugar-Bush Lake this morning in our canoes,
the ice having mostly disappeared during the storm, and
arrived about noon on South Lake, where we prepared
and ate our dinner. The movement was resumed and
continued during the entire afternoon. We reached at a

\ \\

223

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

rf!Fil

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la'te hour a nameless lake, which we then christened Ross
Lake, in honor of our chief guide. The night was spent
under a lean-to, there now being four occupants instead
of three, as was the case during the reconnoissance. With
the appearance of daylight, on the morning of October
19, we were again moving forward on the portage. We
reached Camp Lake about twelve o'clock, put everything in
order there, and proceeded onward to Moose Hill, where
we arrived about three o'clock the same day. The pho-
tographer proceeded immediately to make the desired
negatives, while the guides were busied with the necessary
preparation for the night, — skinning the moose, etc.

It had been our intention to send a guide to the nearest
settler, distant from this spot fourteen miles, in order that
he might remove the meat and use it for food ; but our
intention in this respect was frustrated by the discovery
that it was already tainted by commencing decomposition.

We remained overnight at Moose Hill, and returned
to Camp Lake the next day, where we arrived about four
o'clock in the afternoon, having brought with us the
trophies of the last hunt. We were welcomed to this
camp by a canine chorus, in which the voices of our five
dogs were joyously commingled, while, at the moment of
our approach, they leaped gleefully about us, and added
to the other manifestations of joy such caresses as they
were allowed to bestow.

In acknowledgment of this kindly reception they were
promptly unchained and permitted the freedom of the
camp. These dumb animals have now been our constant
companions for several weeks in this grand forest; have

iriiti

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

223

shared with us in the excitement of the chase ; have aided
us in securing subsistence; while we have in return for
these services most willingly shared with them our food.
None can appreciate the companionship and assistance
rendered by hunting-dogs better than the sportsmen who
have cut loose from their base of supplies and sojourn for
weeks in the forest of Canada. Even the circumstances
which bound together the unfortunate " Rip Van Winkle"
and his dog " Snyder" are not more favorable for this
development.

The day following our return to Camp Lake was
stormy; the falling rain kept us close to our tent, although
we attempted a deer-hunt in the afternoon, which ended
unsuccessfully, inasmuch as one of our dogs rayed away
and was not recovered while we remained in this forest ;
neither did we obtain a deer. The next morning, Novem-
ber I, the captain announced that a deer was required for
our larder, and requested George Ross and myself to
proceed to Cedar Lake, distant from our camp less than
one mile, taking with us a canoe, in order that we might
watch on this body of water while he would endeavor to
start our remaining deer-dog at such a point as to drive
the game to us. The plan thus sketched was successfully
carried out, and before noon we had a fine buck in our
camp. Mr. Mildenberger, the photographer, has tor sev-
eral weeks assumed the responsibility of keeping the camp
supplied with ruffed grouse, and it has never been found
necessary to give him any aid in the performance of this
work, although the other members of our party sometimes
add to the supply by the skilful use of their rifles. Fish-

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224

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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1-5 ■;. 'S,

ing has already been abandoned several weeks. Duck-
shooting is not very remunerative, owing to the scarcity
of these fowls in this region, although the photographer's
skill and industry have been, and still are, occasionally
rewarded by a lucky shot. The killing of the red deer
has been intentionally restricted, since we came into the
wilderness, to the supply of our wants, although those
killed while engaged in the reconnoissance were somewhat
in excess of this demand. The whole number of red deer
killed by us now foot up fourteen, although we could easily
have made it at least fifty. One important object of this
expedition was the collection of specimens of natural his-
tory for my cabinet, and I have succeeded very satisfac-
torily in this direction.

During the afternoon of November 2 the captain and
myself returned to Moose Hill, while George Ross and
Mr. Mildenberger remained in the camp on Camp Lake.
Since our recent exciting moose-hunt I am no longer satis-
fied with the humdrum life on Camp Lake ; deer-hunting
is no longer a novel and exciting pastime for me. I am
this day thirsting for new fields ; a grand moose- or bear-
hunt; some excitement that will stimulate my heart to
greater action ; something that will supply mental food,
will add a zest to thought and an additional motive for
increased physical activity.

We reached Moose Hill about four o'clock in the after-
noon and spent another night under a lean-to. The early
part of the evening was passed in pleasant conversation
and listening to the crackling of our hard-wood fire, which
the captain says forebodes the coming of a snow-storm.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA,

225

The captain's prediction was fulfilled. The ground was
covered this morning with a light, tracking snow, and still
the storm continued. We started, immediately after break-
fast, in search of moose. The storm soon ceased ; the
clouds disappeared; the sun shone out brighdy, which
caused the snow on the trees to melt rapidly. The
search for moose was a failure, but we did succeed in
finding an old bear's path, which led from a small brook
to the carcass of a dead moose, which we concluded had
evidently died of disease, inasmuch as we were unable to
find any mark of injury that had been inflicted by the
sportsman. This animal had probably been dead about
six weeks, and was greatly emaciated at xhe time of his
death. We discovered, by our examination, that one knee-
joint had been extensively diseased. The animal had evi-
dently suffered with severe suppurative arthritis, which was
complicated by a necrosis of all the bones entering into this
joint. The anders were imperfecdy developed and still
covered with velvet. This carcass was found about six
miles distant from those on Moose Hill. The indications
favored the opinion that the bear had been feeding on
this body several weeks, since the path was well worn and
much of the carcass had already been consumed.

Having now paid our respects to the path and the dead
moose, we began a search for old bruin, who was soon
started from a thicket near his food-supply ; and here we
discovered his fresh tracks in the newly-fallen snow. We
now started on this trail, which was easily followed, but
soon halted and held a consultation in regard to the best

method of procedure We had left Camp Lake with rations

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a36

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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til i

intended to supply our wants for only twenty-four hours.
Should we now attempt to trail this bear to his den, or
return to our camp and procure an additional supply of
provisions and then establish a watch on his path ? The
captain reminded me of the fact that if we even succeeded
in trailing the bear to his den, we were not now provided
with either axe or spade with which to bring him from his
cover. The force of this argument was fully appreciated,
and, furthermore, it was by no means certain that old bruin
would be so obliging as to conduct us direct to his resi-
dence. In many instances sportsmen have had reason to
regret this hasty conclusion, — viz., that if they fo' ed old
bruin's trail he would lead them to his home; L^c instead
of doing this he has conducted them a score of miles away
from it. It is true that the conditions for trailing are un-
usually favorable this morning, owing to the presence of
the fresh snow, which faithfully records every impression
made in it. The real question is. What shall we do under
these circumstances? This brings up for consideration
the other side of the question. It should be remembered
that the bear has been started from his cover in the
thicket, and that we have been tramping about the dead
moose and along bruin's path. Bruin may have sighted
us, and it is very certain that he has already scented us.
Therefore it may be very properly questioned whether or
not he will return to his present food-supply. It is gener-
ally believed that this animal is not easily frightened away
from his food, or rather, that he will return time and again
after he has been driven away from it, especially when
the supply is not abundant. Furthermore, this inclina-

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

227

tion to come back to his food seems to increase with every
repetition which he makes for this purpose until the siip-
ply is exhausted. It then seemed entirely reasonable for
us to presume in this case that our game would return to
his old haunts under the promptings of hunger ; inasmuch
as the food-supply in this region was extremely limited at
this time. We, therefore, concluded it was better to make
no further effort to follow bruin, but to return at an early
day and establish a watch on his pathway leading from the
brook to the dead moose.

In accordance with his resolution we soon started on
our return to Camp Lake, where we arrived before night-
fall ; found Mr. Mildenberger and George Ross seated near
the camp-fire in the full enjoyment of their freedom from
toil, recalling their past sports and contemplating new
pleasures to be gleaned from the chase in the near future.
It was the intention of the captain and myself, when we
reached here to-day, to provide ourselves with food enough
to last four or five days, and such other articles as might
be required during our intended sojourn in the vicinity of
old bruin's food-supply, and return to the spot to-morrow
morning ; but in this instance it was not many hours be-
fore we fully appreciated the fact that

"The best laid schemes o* mice an' men
Gang aft a-gley,
An' lea'e us nought but grief and pain
For promised joy."

It was observed during the early part of the evening
that the moon shone with peculiar brightness ; but before

228

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

I \\

ill

i!'

ten o'clock the atmosphere became slightly hazy, and we
discovered that the satellite of the earth was encircled by
a luminous halo, which has long been attributed to re-
fraction and reflection of the rays of light by the pres-
ence of minute snow -crystals in the upper strata of the
air. The existence of this phenonenon, therefore, gave
rise to no small degree of anxiety on my part; and the
feeling of despondency was momentarily increased by the
commencement of a sevee snow-storm before three
o'clock the next morning. This storm continued without
abatement for thirty hours, and during this period there
had fallen twenty inches of snow. The severity of the
storm kept us confined to our camp throughout the entire
day; and, consequently, the 4th of November, 1884, will
long be remembered by us for other reasons than the
election of a Democratic President of the United States.
The question uppermost in my mind during this gloomy
period was that involving the capture of the bear. The
captain expressed the firm conviction that the bear would
now disappear within his den, and remain there until the
ides of March had made their appearance. This was very
disagreeable information for the author, and he sought to
controvert the opinion thus expressed by the citation of
the doubts expressed on this point by Frank Forester
and other authorities. It must, however, be admitted that
this self-imposed task was found to be very difficult, inas-
much as these authorities generally acknowledge that old
bruin usually dens up with the coming of the first heavy
snow in autumn, and very raieiy leaves his winter chamber
until the approach of genial spring. The author will be

i Ji

OJi, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

229

subsequently pleased to inform the reader in regard to the
behavior of this particular bear, although he may be as-
sured that it was most unsatisfactory.

This record has been brought down to the 5th of No-
vember, which finds us nearly buried beneath the snow,
while the cold wind comes to us this morning from the
northwest. The snow-storm continues, but is less severe
than it was yesterday, although the weather is colder. The
lakes are freezing rapidly, and it is with much difficulty
that we can pass our canoes through the ice that has
already formed, and it is very evident that navigation in
this regrion will be closed within a few hours.

The captain and the author took their departure from
the buried tent on Camp Lake about half-past nine o'clock
this morning. The sun had already made a few ineffectual
attempts to send forth her cheering rays, but the rapidly-
moving veil of clouds which covered its face has thus far
defeated this benign effort. The wind is blowing ; it causes
the snow to fly in a very lively style from the evergreen-
trees, on which some still reposes ; while in addition to
this, there are numerous attempts to renew the snow-
storm. The paddling of our canoe requires the united
efforts of the captain and myself, since it is necessary that
one should be almost constantly breaking the ice with the
paddle while the other pushes :he frail bark forward.
Neither was our progress on land more rapid or less
laborious, since we were compelled to wallow tlirough the
deep snow, which also served to cover fallen trees, bushes,
etc., while these in turn frequently entrapped our feet and
plunged us headlong into this cold bed. The author is.

t- H

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230

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

rather reluctantly compelled to admit, at this late date,
that he received much more than his share of these rough
tumbles, inasmuch as the captain's superior knowledge of
wood-craft, as well as his greater activity, enabled him to
avoid many of these undesirable somersaults, although
the most disagreeable feature connected with them was the
continued sensation so closely resembling that produced
by a cold-water bath. The snow on these occasions in-
sinuated itself into my ears, around my neck and wrists,
in which places it soon melted, and then as water was
carried to every part of my body.

The author; even at this moment, has a very distinct
recollection that, during the greater part of that mem-
orable day, his hands were so much benumbed with cold
that it was found very difficult to handle either the paddle
or rifle. Fortunately, however, for his present happiness,
he was able even then to look forward to a more favorable
state of existence, apparent in the near future, in which
all these efforts would be rewarded by new sports and
more favorable conditions.

We reached our lean-to on Moose Hill about one
o'clock in the afternoon, which we had left standing when
we visited this spot. It was now almost buried beneath
the snow, while its interior was nearly filled with the same
material, which had been carried there by the driving wind.
When we left here on the morning of the 3d of No-
vember the captain had hung up a large piece of venison
on a tree, in order that it might be beyond the reach of
wolves, foxes, and other meat-eating animals ; he had also
placed some bread beneath the cover of our lean-to, and,

•I (i

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

231

therefore, it was not deemed necessary to bring with us
any venison this morning when we left Camp Lake. Here
we were again disappointed. During our absence the
ravens had taken possession of the venison and caused
it to disappear, notwithstanding the fact that there was an
abundance of moose-meat in the immediate vicinity. We
also relied on the bread which we had placed beneath our
blankets, but only for our dinner; this was frozen, and,
although we had brought flour with us, we could not tarry
long enough here to bake bread. Our dinner, therefore,
consisted of a cup of hot tea and some frozen cramper.'
We are not, however, discouraged, since we are in pos-
session of our rifles and an abundance of ammunition.
Consequently we can very soon supply meat. Having
completed our frugal meal, we promptly started for our
destination. The immediate objective-point was Trout
Lake, which was reached in due time, and here we entered
once more our canoe. The paddling of this craft was even
more difficult now than it was in the morning, since the ice
was constantly becoming thicker. So great was the effort
to propel the canoe that it caused the captain and myself
to perspire freely. This was, however, a very pleasant
change from walking in the woods while the cold water
was coursing down our backs. There were still a few
places in the lake where ducks could succeed in finding a
small open space, and in one of these open spots we dis-
covered a flock of these fowls. At the moment we dis-
covered them I suppose we were fully six hundred yards
away. We continued to paddle forward cautiously until
we had shortened the range to about three hundred yards,.

232

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

1^ I! '

when I raised my rifle and forwarded my compliments.
One fine bird in the flock promptly acknowledged the
receipt of the same by the loss of her head and turning
up her feet. This was our prompt commencement in
providing flesh food for our larder, and the success of the
shot gave us much satisfaction. We pulled away on our
paddles, picked up our game, and then headed for that
point on the shore where we intended to disembark.
Breaking the ice with the paddle was now becoming per-
ceptibly more difficult every hour, and the lapse of a very
brief period will render it an impossibility. The shore
was finally reached, the canoe taken from the water, and,
after being turned bottom upward, was placed on some
brush, while the captain remarked, " Navigation is closed ;
we shall have no further use for little birch-barks this
year." The tramp was at this point again resumed, and
we pushed forward as rapidly as was possible under the
circumstances for our destination. The captain aimed to
reach a little hut which he had constructed some years
previously, while trapping in this part of the forest, before
nightfall, in order to spend the night in it.

The storm had now ceased ; the sun shone out, but it
was nevertheless very cold. The game had commenced
to move about, although during the storm it had remained
under cover and was inactive. We saw tracks of the red
deer and the moose. It was about five o'clock when we
arrived at the trapper's cabin. We were once more dis-
appointed : we had hoped for shelter and there was none.
The roof of this cabin had fallen in, evidently some months
previously, and consequently its Interior was filled with

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

233

snow, while the side walls were yet standing. There was
no time to be lost. The necessary preparations must be
made for the night. It was determined to remove the
snow and debris from the cabin in order that we might
occupy it. Both the captain and myself set to the per-
formance of this work with much energy. It was now
more pleasant to work than to remain idle. Work brought
with it warmth and comfort, while inactivity was attended
with a chattering of the teeth and physical suffering.
These efforts did not cease until we had in some measure
accomplished our object. The snow and rubbish had been
partially removed and a new roof placed on the old walls
of the cabin. The fire was built within this structure ; a
hole in the roof nearly four feet square had been left for
the escape of the smoke, besides which great openings
remained in the side walls and roof, through which the
starry heavens were visible. The evening meal consisted
of an abundance of hot cramper and tea ; we had reserved
the duck for our breakfast. The only blankets we had
with us had been dug up from beneath the snow that had
drifted under the lean-to on Moose Hill, and were, there-
fore, wet. We spent much of the evening in attempting
to dry them before our fire. These blankets were finally
arranged within the cabin and we attempted to secure
sleep, but the cold was so intense as to seriously interfere
with this purpose, although the physical efforts made by
us during the day strongly predisposed us in this direction.
The captain was up and moving two hours before the dawn
of day. He promptly, after rising, paid special attention
to the fire ; the increased warmth diffused itself through

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234

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE,'

the cabin, and thus afforded me a better opportunity to
secure some refreshing sleep, which, it is hardly necessary
for me to say, I willingly improved. It was not until day-
break that I aroused myself and made ready for break-
fast, which had already been elegantly prepared by my
guide.

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

235

CHAPTER XII.

The Bear which was not killed— Following the Moose— The "Captain

KILLED THE BULL MoOSE— PACKING OUT OF THE WoODS— THE ReST AT

Harkness's Shack— a Hard Tramp— Burk's Falls— A Deer-Hunt- An-
other Trip to Canada in the Company ok my Son, a Lad of Fifteen-
Teaching THE Boy to Shoot-Killed his First Deer— An Exciting
Chase— The Old Doe makes her Escape.

^HE reader left us busied in our miserable
cabin with our morning meal, which having
been completed, we started off for the old
bear's food-supply. This point was distant
from the cabin something less than a mile,
and was, therefore, reached within half an
hour after the start was made. We found
HiJ that the dead moose had not been visited by old
P^ bruin since the heavy snow-fall; although a flock
of ravens had uncovered the carcass and were engaged in
picking the flesh from his bones at the moment of our
arrival. The prospect of meeting the game which we
sought, it must be confessed, was now very discouraging ;
but, nevertheless, I was determined to remain on the watch
here for the present. The captain ::ut out some of the
underbrush in order that I might le better enabled to
discover the approach of the much-desired visitor, and
then left me, saying, "I will go off in search of other
game." I remained on this lonely bear-watch about five

I I

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,11 ii,

I 111 ,
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236

TIf£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

hours,

and then went to hunt the moose or deer.
I followed the first trail that I struck. It
had been made by a red deer ; was still
fresh, but soon crossed another trail
which had been left by three moose.
This trail had evidently been made on
the previous day while it was still
snowing, and tne tracks had been,
in some measure, obscured from

this cause. I plodded along slowly on
this trail about one hour, when I was
greatly delighted to find it crossed by
another which was fresh and made by
the same number of animals. I imme-
diately turned away from the old trail

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

237

111

ill

and started off on the fresh one. Within twenty minutes I
discovered that the new trail had been made within half an
hour, and was, therefore, encouraged to push forward,
hoping to r,Lrike these animals before nightfall. The deep
snow seriously impeded my progress ; but, nevertheless, I
soon came on their warm beds, from which they had just
risen, about three o'clock in the afternoon. I am not cer-
tain whether they were frightened from their repose by my
incautious approach, but think it more probable that they
scented me because of an unfavorable wind. However,
they succeeded in getting away without receiving my fire.

Their retreat was made in good order and without any
unseemly haste. I continued the pursuit an hour longer,
until warned by the sinking sun that it was time to turn
my face towards our hut, which was now distant from me
at least eight miles. It was with a heavy heart that I re-
traced my steps without knowing that our larder was yet
supplied with meat. I was overtaken in this great forest
by the shades of night while yet four or five miles from
the camp, although the stars shone out brightly in the
absence of the sunlight, and the moon soon came up to
light me along my way.

I halted by the side of the dead moose to ascertain if old
bruin bid been there for his meal, but my examination soon
convinced me that he had fully determined to wait for more
pleasant weather before he resumed eating. Therefore it
only remained for me to hasten on to the hut, where I was
fully assured that I would be heartily welcomed by the
captain.

I arrived at my destination in due time. The first

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TJIE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

object which attracted my attention was the cheerful blaze
of the wood fire, after which my eyes fell on the bull
moose's head lying just outside of the hut. It was now
plain that the captain's hunt had been rewarded by killing
a moose. After inspecting, by the moonlight and the light
from the fire, this head and the antlers, I entered the hut,
where I saw hanging on the wall an abundance of moose-
meat. A single glance at the captain's face convinced me
that he was happy. He greeted me pleasandy, and I
prompdy inquired of him in regard to the sport of the day.
He briefly detailed his doings ; informed me that he had
seen several moose after he parted from me in the morn-
ing, but had killed only a single animal. He was inclined
to think that he had not been as successful in killing game
as was demanded by the circumstances of the case. I
inquired in regard to the number of shots that he had fired
during the day, and he replied, " I don't know ; the number
is less than thirty." He furthermore added that he had
shot eighteen times at the bull which he killed before the
animal ceased to show signs of life. The reader may
here find himself inclined to think that the captain should
be classed among amateur sportsmen, but I will only say
that it would be a very difficult task to find an expert that
could kill as much game in these woods as my old guide.
The repeating-rifle has brought about a change in the
methods of killing game. The sportsman no longer re-
fuses to fire a shot unless he is certain that his bullet will
enter some vulnerable point in the animal, but shoots
away, and trusts by this means that, should he fail to kill
promptly, he will at least succeed in effecting a change in

m^wm

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

239

the position of the game that may enable him to make
a more effective shot the next time ; prompted by this
idea, the shooting goes on until the game has been killed
or makes its escape. The captain shoots with great
rapidity, and, consequently, frequently fires several shots
after the mortal wound has been inflicted. In moose-,
bear-, and deer-hunting he does not cease his fusillade so
long as the animal shows any indications of even a linger-
ing vitality.

The second night that we spent in this miserable hut
was passed somewhat more comfortably than the first.
This was owing partially to the fact that during the second
night the weather moderated considerably, and our blankets
were in a better condition. Furthermore, the captain had
spent some time in closing the chinks between the logs
after his return from the moose-hunt, and had likewise
carefully prepared the wood for the fire. I take from my
diary the following dull and unromantic statement of facts:

Friday y November 6, 1884. — The captain started from
the hut this morning promptly after we had breakfasted
on moose-meat, tea, and cramper, with the intention of
following up the trail which I had abandoned at three
o'clock on the previous day. He casually remarked when
he left me that he might not be out more than three or
four hours, as it seemed likely to rain. I commenced the
preparation of the moose-head for transportation and
mounting immediately after his departure, and was steadily
engaged in the performance of this work from nine o'clock
A.M. until four o'clock p.m. It was cloudy in the morning,
but cleared before noon. The snow melted slightly during

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THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

the clay. About half-past four o'clock I started out to
look after the bear ; found the moose-carcass ; saw a pine-
marten in the act of leaving it ; he climbed a tree ; I shot
him and then returned to camp. The bear has not visited
the dead moose since the heavy snow-storm that com-
menced early Tuesday morning. The captain has not yet
returned to camp, although it is now rapidly becoming
dark. I spent an hour in procuring a supply of wood for
our fire, which we are compelled to keep burning all
night. I was doomed to spend the night in a miserable
hut without a companion, since the captain did not return
until about ten o'clock Saturday morning. He brought
with him two companions to assist in transferring our
luggage to Harkness's Clearings.

Prior to our start he cooked some moose-meat, and we
all partook of the har Hy-prepared lunch, and then promptly
commenced the homeward journey. The hunt was ended,
but in leaving the forest we saw many fresh moose-tracks.
The game was evidently moving about in a lively fashion
this morning, but we were not inclined to spend any more
time in the chase.

The captain readily explained his absence from the
camp on the preceding night by informing me that the
trail which he had taken up soon after our separation on
the previous morning was the same that I had followed
so industriously the day that he had killed the bull moose
near our present encampment. This trail finally brought
him within a few miles of Harkness's cabin ; and, inasmuch
as it was then about sunset, he concluded to take lodging
with his old friend and return to me the next morning.

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

241

He had found the animals which he was trailing rather
shy, and consequently had only once during the day suc-
ceeded in getting within gunshot of them. A single shot
fired at long range was therefore the sum total of his day's
work.

His absence from my camp during the entire night had
been attended with some inconvenience to myself, but with
very little anxiety, since his knowledge of woodcraft and
the use of firearms was a sufficient guarantee that he
would turn up all right. I am free to confess, however,
that the want of companionship was keenly felt during his
absence.

We had previously arranged in regard to our departure
from the woods, and it was therefore entirely in harmony
with my wishes to find myself, on the evening of the 7th
of November, once more in the company of my photog-
rapher and George Ross, the junior guide. The entire
party, in accordance with the prearranged plans, have this
day united at Mr. Harkness's cabin,* who supplies us with
very good meals, while we are comfortably lodged in a
log cabin built near his own by Mr. Woo-I, who has since
married the daughter of our host.

Here the adventures of the last two months were again
reviewed, and here, again, we joyfully recalled the sports
and hardships in which we had so recently participated.
We had gathered during our hunt a large number of
trophies, and had likewise secured many valuable nega-
tives. It was, therefore, with much satisfaction that we
summed up the results of this expedition.

* See tail-piece Chapter XI.
16

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242

TJI£ SPOJ^TSMAN'S PARADISE;

Sunday, November 8, was spent quietly by our party
at Harkness's place, although it was found necessary to
make some preparation for our departure. The day
passed slowly ; seemed unusually long ; probably because
we were now anxious to get home, to meet again with
our families. Nearly two months have elapsed since either
Tvlr. Mildenberger or myself have received any tidings
from Jersey City, but we expect to find letters awaiting our
arrival at Spence. We were up and had breakfast before
daylight the next morning. The ox-team had been yoked

A hard tramp — homeward bound.

and were hitched to the old jumper before the first rays
of the morning light were visible in the east. The gray
dawn of the morning found us moving homeward through
the stiffened snow, which was now about twelve inches
deep ; traversing a broad swamp which had not yet been
closed by the cold frosts of autumn ; travelling on a track-
less and miserable wood-road where the oxen wallowed
deep in the mud, while the pedestrians occasionally sank
so deeply into these sloughs as to require the assistance
of a companion to extricate them. The old jumper fared

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

243

D') better. It frequently sank deeply into the mud and
became entangled with the roots of trees and th° adjacent
rocks, thus bringing our team to a full halt, and commonly
compelling them to remain in this position until levers I a-.i
been procured, by the proper use of which we were -A-
ways enabled to elevate and disengage our jumper and
finally proceed on our journey. The old jumper aft r
a while became so weakened by these repeated strains as
to show marked indications of a rapidly-approaching dis-
solution. It, in fact, became necessary to strengthen our
frail vehicle in all its parts before we reached the objective-
point for which we started with the jumper this morning, al-
though it was distant from Harkness's cabin only six miles.
The morning hours were thus passed, and it was nearly
two o'clock in the afternoon before we reached our first
stopping-place. The jumper was now a complete wreck,
and the oxen were wet with their perspiration and well
bespattered with mud. We had previously arranged with
Mr. Cunningham to provide for us a dinner and then take
our luggage forward from this point to Burk's Falls with a
horse-team. The dinner was awaiting our arrival ; the
team was soon placed before the wagon and our luggage
was transferred to it. The halt made here did not exceed
forty-five minutes, when the tramp was again resumed.
The circumstances now seemed mere favorable to our
progress. We had reached the Queen 3 Highway. The
fall of snow had not been so deep here as in the woods,
and had probably melted down rapidly ; therefore there
were here visible a few bare spots of earth, although the
road on which we are to travel has been recendy con-

244

TJI£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

t^'lMo

structed and is now a perfect bed of mud. I started off
in company with the captain, taking a route across the
fields and through the woods. The photographer and
George Ross have preceded us. Cunningham's horses
drag the heavily-loaded wagon slowly along the highway.
The pedestrian is able to make better time than these
horses under the circumstances. A brisk walk of three
miles enabled the captain and myself to overtake the pho-
tographer and the junior guide. It was during this walk,
and prior to the overhauling of our companions, that we
chanced to come upon a wood-chopper, who was engaged
in levelling the forest preparatory to clearing it for cultiva-
tion. He had previously been informed that we had left
the woods and were now homeward bound, carrying with
us a wagon-load of trophies. He, therefore, began to
question the captain in regard to our unsurpassed success
in hunting ; ahd while they were engaged in this conver-
sation I espied a meat-bird sitting on the top branches of
a tree about six rods distant from me. The sight of the
bird prompted me to raise my rifle and fire a shot, which
chanced to drop the bird to the ground. The wood-
chopper quickly rushed away with the instincts of a re-
triever, and soon returned with the dead bird in his hand,
which he promptly delivered to me. He instantly re-
marked, "I am not surprised that you have secured a
wagon-load of trophies after seeing you drop that small
bird at such a long distance." He was now evidently anx-
ious to see me make another trial of my skill with the rifle,
since he soon pointed out another bird of the same species
within the range of my gun. I had made a good shot, and

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

245

did not care to repeat the effort lest I might not add to my
reputation as a marksman ; and, consequently, I now placed
my gun in the captain's hands and requested him to try his
skill. He fired two shots and killed a bird each time,
although they were not within a short range. The wood-
chopper was now apparently greatly impressed, and asked
permission to examine the rifle, which he was promptly
allowed to do. He seemed to admire the gun very much,
and asked many questions about its cost, etc., and then
complained that the backwoodsmen were so badly supplied
with firear-^is. He finally remarked that if they possessed
better guns they could then supply themselves with meat, —
an article which was very seldom seen in these poor cabins.
This wayside chat was now brought to an end, and
we bade our new-made acquaintance " good-by," and once
more resumed our tramp. Half an hour later we came up
with the photographer and the junior guide. The captain
now suggested that he would wait by the roadside until
the wagon carrying the trophies should come up, in order
tc render the driver such assistance as he might require
01 the rough road. I now went forward in company with
the photographer and George Ross. The road was in a
horrible condition ; mud and water greatly impeded our
progress, while* in many places the clay held so tena-
ciously to our feet that it was very fatiguing to move for-
ward even at a slow pace, consequently we plodded slowly
along. It was five o'clock when we reached Berryville.
We were then five miles from Burk's Fall?. At this point
we entered a small country store and learned that Mr.
Cleveland had been elected President of the United States

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346

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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during our absence. It had now been more than six weeks
since we had seen a newspaper. The photographer and
myself were highly pleased with the result of this election.
Crackers and cheese were obtained and sufficed to appease
our hunger, but our soreness was only increased by this
halt. The shades of night had gathered about us before
we renewed our journey. We were, therefore, compelled,
when we left the store and started off again for our ob-
jective-point, to walk in the middle of the road ; it was no
longer possible to pick our way or choose our path, since
the darkness was so great as to render invisible every
object situated more than three feet from us. At every
step taken in this mud we sank into it deeply, sometimes
even to our knees. It was no longer possible to walk
erect and pursue a straight course, but we reeled about
like drunken men, so great was our fatigue. Horrible !
horrible ! was this severe ordeal ! We could not hali for
the night. No shelter could be had after we left Berry-
ville until we reached Burk's Falls. Our situation was no
longer enjoyable. We had undertaken to perform a very
difficult task, too great a labor ; but the plan could not be
changed, and therefore we pushed forward. We finally
arrived at our hotel about eight in the evening. We were
foot-sore and weary. George Ross, a strong backwoods-
man, was pale and trembled in every muscle ; my feet were
badly blistered and greatly swollen. I could scarcely
stand ; removed my shoes as quickly as possible after I
entered the hotel. Sent to the store and purchased a pair
of arctics, which I prompdy donned after taking a foot-
bath. The junior guide was thoroughly exhausted and

»wa»-.>»w?i^j«t«sat^.Tj8yj

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

247

began to vomit soon after our arrival. Should the reader
venture to think that our condition was in some measure
dependent on the use of alcoholic stimulants, allow me to
inform him that no man in our party has tasted a drop of
strong drink during the last six weeks. Nothing has been
said in regard to the condition of our photographei at the
time of our arrival. I think it must be admitted that he
had passed through this trying ordeal somewhat more
fortunately than either George Ross or myself, but he
frankly admitted that he had never been so greatly
fatigued prior to this tramp. We had walked today
twenty miles, but could have made fifty with more ease
had the condition of the roads been favorable to sucii an
effort. 1 retired to my room, which was well warmed, at
an early hour ; but notwithstanding the precaution taken
I was seized with a chill, which lasted about half an hour.
The wagon with our trophies did not arrive until eleven
o'clock that night. Darkness and the bad condition of
the roads had been the cause of the delay. The team was
a very strong one and in a very good condition for heavy
work.

Having passed the night tolerably well, our party met
at the breakfast-table the following morning about nine
o'clock somewhat refreshed. A party of deer-hunters
living in this village had proposed a deer-hunt to the
captain and wished us to join them in this sport. The
hunt was to take place near the village, and we were in-
formed that the run-ways could be reached by a buck-board
wagon. It was impossible for us to leave here until the
following morning, since " Ponto" had wearied during the

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long

tramp of the previous day and found a new home
at Berryville. It had already been settled that George
Ross should procure a horse and saddle and return for the
purpose of bringing up the straggler. Therefore, after
considerable consideration of this subject, I rather reluc-
tantly consented to become one of the hunting-party. A
buck-board wagon was procured for the use of a circuit
judge — who was one of the party — and myself, and we
were duly driven to a run-way which it had been decided
that we were to watch.

The occurrences of the morning were very similar to
those which have been already so frequently described.
The music made by the hounds was very exciting, and the
deer was killed by the captain. We returned to the village
after the single race and spent the balance of the day in
the hotel.

Thus ended the grandest hunt in which it has ever been
my good fortune to participate. It is true that we endured
many hardships, but we were more than amply compensated
for all these by the pleasures of the chase. We returned to
our professional duties reinvigorated and better prepared
for the discharge of those efforts demanded of us, both
mental and physical.

The question may be raised by the reader if it were
not possible to have avoided many of the severe tramps
and likewise some of the exposure. This inquiry must be
answered in the affirmative, since it must be self-evident
to every reader that the amount of tramping done in any
particular casr^ will depend largely on the inclination of
the sportsman. In deer-hunting it is quite possible to

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

249

ivere
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avoid any degree of exercise which Wiil be fatiguing, es-
pecially when hounds are employed. The sportsman may
haA e his tent erected near the point where the hunt is to
take place, and thus avoid the necessity of any tramping.
He can proceed in his canoe to any point of the lake which
it is deemed advisable to wi»tch, or should he elect to
watch a run-way, the location of his tent may be such that
the walk would not be fatiguing. Lake-hunting is commonly
practised in this region, and there are probably ninety-nine
deer killed in the water where there is one killed on the
run-ways when hounds are employed.

In still-hunting the sportsman may determine for him-
self the amount of walking which he will do ; but the
results of the hunt will depend very largely upon the
energy and industry of the sportsman, especially if the
other factors of success are equal. The red deer are very
abundant throughout this entire region, and may be suc-
cessfully hunted in close proximity to the settlers' cabins.
The same is true of the ruffed grouse. There is likewise
very excellent bass- and pickerel-fishing in nearly all the
lakes and rivers in the sparsely-settled districts, but those
who desire really good trout-fishing, except during the
early part of the month of June, must go back into the
forests. A single day's journey from a railroad depot
will, however, suffice to bring the fisherman into a region
where his efforts, even in autumn, will be rewarded by the
capture of the speckled beauties. This region of country
in which I have hunted may be very readily reached by
the Northern Railroad from Toronto, Canada ; while the
sportsman may very well procure the necessary supply of

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250

T//E SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

provisions from any of the small villages on this line. Sup-
plies may be had of excellent quality and in any desired
quantity at Burk's Falls. Hotel accommodation is, like-
wise, abundant and of such a character as to satisfy most
sportsmen. I think it is highly probable that some sports-
men may prefer to remain in a hotel and do their shooting
in the immediate neighborhood of the same, although much
better results may be obtained by tenting on the field
selected for the sport. The author likewise believes that
the sportsman will add greatly to his enjoyment by the
latter course of procedure, which certainly possesses for
most men a charm independent of the increased facilities
it affords for procuring game.

I recently spent a few days very pleasantly in the
vicinity of Maganetawan in deer-hunting and partridge-
shooting, in company with my son, a youth of fifteen years,
and inasmuch as it illustrates the possibility of obtaining
.ery good sport without any great fatigue or exertion, I
am disposed to give a brief description of this trip, which
I think may not -be devoid of interest. We started from
our home in Jersey City, New Jersey, August 31, 1886.
An evening train on the New York, Lake Erie and
Western Railroad carried us forwards towards our desti-
nation. The next morning found us at Niagara Falls,
where we spent the most of the day in sight-seeing, but
we reached Toronto at a late hour of the same evening:.
The following morning we were moving forward by the
Northern Railroad towards Muskoka. In due time we
arrived at the village of Maganetawan, where we were
very cordially received by the fat and genial proprietor of

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

2^1

a hotel which bears the same name as the village in which
it is located. He had been informed, prior to our arrival,
by the captain that we were en route for the woods, and
might be expected in this village at the date on which we
reached it, and consequently we were not unexpected
guests. In accordance with a previous arrangement made
with Captain Ross, he put in an appearance at our hotel
the next morning at an early hour. He had brought with
him a wagon to transport us and our baggage to the lake
of " Many Islands," where it had already been determined
the hunt should take place.

We reached our destination Saturday, September 5, at
about half-past three o'clock. This lake is situated about
eleven miles from the village of Maganetawan, and our
baggage was delivered by the wagon within half a mile of
its shore. Inasmuch as the latter portion of the road we
had traversed had been found to be rather rough, we had
therefore chosen to walk about three miles. The scene
presented by this lake on our arrival was highly pleasing.
There lay spread out before us a rnagnificent sheet of pure
water stirred by a slight breeze, which produced little rip-
ples on its surface, that sparkled with the brilliance of
diamonds surrounded with bright silver in the clear sun-
light of a cloudless autumn day. The lake of *• Many
Islands" is very similar to many others in this "Lake Land
of Canada." It is about three miles in length and one
mile in width, while its numerous islands prevent us from
seeing but a small portion of it from any point which may
be selected on its shore.

At the time of our visit it was completely surrounded

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2'Jf£ SPORl'SMAN'S PARADISE;

by a virgin forest of hard wood, intersp^'rsed with giant
pines ; but it was then expected that the lumbermen would
soon commence their work of devastation, which will not
end until the whole neighborhood has been robbed of the
pine timber.

The sun was shining brightly when we reached the
shore of this lake, and the weather was oppressively warm.
We, therefore, reclined on the moss whicli grew in great
abundance, even quite near the water's edge, until suffi-
ciently rested to begin the labor required to erect our tent
and perform such other ities about the camp as scorned
to be necessary for our comfort. Myself and son arc ac-
companied by the captain and two other guides, conse-
quently the preparation of the camp is quickly effected.
We are now ready to start out for some fishing. My son
and myself were soon seated in a large, birch-bark canoe,
and the captain was working the paddle. We have each
thrown a trollin<r-line into the water, and the bass have
promptly responded to our glittering invitations. We
had soon captured a fine lot of these delicious fish, and
among them there was one large one, supposed to weigh
fully four pounds.

We returned to our camp in time to have some fish
prepared for our evening meal. The sun disappeared
below the western horizon soon after we had finished our
supper, and the evening breeze seemed to possess just
those qualities best adapted to make life agreeable ; was
neither too warm nor too cool. This was my son's first
night passed under canvas, and he was perfectly charmed
with the new condition of things. He slept soundly and

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

253

arose early the following morning ^^really refreshed, while
mental visions of delight rapidly chased each other through
his brain. He was now very anxious and almost impa-
tient to engage in a deer-hunt. It was, therefore, with
marked joy that he heard the captain declare that he would
send the hounds into the woods immediately after break-
fast. The morning was warm, — almost sultry, — and the
trees were covered with a heavy green foliage, but as
soon as the breakfast had been eaten the captain directed
" Tom," one of the guides, to start with the hounds into
the woods and send us a deer. "Tom" obeyed this order
with alacrity, while the captain and "Jim" cleared away the
remnants of the morning repast and put in order the
" camp-kit."

They spent about twenty minutes in this labor, and the
captain then announced his readiness for us to enter the
canoes. Both Henry and myself entered his canoe, which
he immediately shoved into the lake, and then paddled us
off about one mile to an island situated near the head of
this body of water. "Jim" had followed us in a canoe.
Both canoes were drawn upon this island and we prompdy
stepped on the dry land. The captain now carefully sur-
veyed the surroundings for the purpose of selecting the
most advantageous places for the watch. Having satisfied
himself in regard to this matter, he then said to me, " Doc-
tor, you will go with me in my canoe and your son will
watch with • Jim.' "

I looked at Henry and instantly discovered that he was
disappointed. I had previously informed him that the
captain was the most competent guide, and that I should

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354

T//£ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE,-

llierefore leave him In his charge, in order that he might
have an opportunity to kill tne i,''ame. The reader will
now readily comprehend the cause of the lad's disappoint-
ment. I now informed the captain of my desire in this
matter, and he promptly consented to this arrangement,
which placed Henry in his charge. The boy's face in-
stantly lighted up and he was again happy. The captain
now gave "Jim" the necessary instructions, and we started
for the point which had been designated for our watch.
The sun was shining brightly, and there was only a slight
breeze at this time on the lake.

Having reached our destination, the canoe was now
drawn on the land, and I seated myself beneath the shade
of a friendly bush, while " Jim" remained standing in order
to have a better view of the surroundings. About half
an hour was thus spent, when I was suddenly startled by
a heavy splash in the water and an exclamation from my
guide, who, in a loud whisper, announced the presence of
a buck in the water. I promptly arose to my feet and dis-
covered, with the guide's assistance, our game swimming
out towards the centre of the lake. This charming vision
was only momentary, since the animal promptly disap-
peared behind one of the many islands that grace the lake.
Our canoe was quickly pushed into the lake and quiedy
entered. We then pulled away with all our might, al-
though we were now confident that the captain had already
discovered the prize and was moving for its capture. A
few moments later, having then rounded the island, which
momentarily hid from our vision the object we sought, we
again saw the deer, which was now closely pursued by the

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OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

255

captain's canoe, while my son was seated in its bow with
his gun already raised in readiness for the shot. The
captain was giving him the necessary instruction. "Jim"
was paddling with all his might, but we were now about
five hundred yards behind the captain, while he was within
thirty yards of the buck. The command was given by the
captain in the following language : " Take aim at the back
of the head, — fire !" A litde puff of blue smoke was seen
to shoot forth from the muzzle of the lad's gun ; the ani-
mal's heavy antlers disappeared beneath the waters of the
lake ; the boy had killed his first deer and was as happy
as a general who had just won his first batde. This buck's
head was carefully prepared for moundng in our camp,
and is now one of the boy's trophies, which he has pre-
served at his home and proudly exhibits to his youthful
companions.

We remained encamped on this beautiful sheet of water
about ten days, and during this period killed eight deer,
many ruffed grouse, and caught as many fish as we de-
sired for our table. The tent was, soon after our arrival,
removed from the lake-shore — where it was at first erected
— to one of the many islands in this body of water, where
it remained until the day of our departure. The boy was
made, in accordance with the desire which the author had
expressed soon after our arrival, the hero of the hunt;
and during our brief stay killed four deer and more than
one-half the whole number of partridges. The hunt was
practically the boy's own sport, and afforded him the high-
est pleasure consistent with our surroundings. It is no
part of my intention, at the present time, to inflict on

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256

r^^ SPORISMAN'S PARADISE;

the reader a full report of the daily occurrences during
our stay in this region, but I shall describe some of the
more exciting events which transpired ; and in addition to
this, also detail some of the more interesting movements
of the game which we were hunting.

Having sent the hounds into the woods one cloudy
morning in company with "Jim," who on this day acted as
our starter, I left the camp on the island in the company
of the faithful "Tom," who paddled the birch-bark for me,
while my son was, as usual, in the canoe with the captain.
We expected the deer this morning would take to the water
about one mile from our camp, and consequendy the
canoes were directed towards this point. I had thrown a
troll into the water soon after leaving camp, in order to
take some fish before the deer should put in an ap-
pearance. We listened attentively for the music of the
hounds, but not a single note had been heard, when a
slight crackling sound, made in the woods near the shore
of the lake, attracted my attention. "Tom" had, a mo-
ment previously, raised his padd'e from the water, and I
had already commenced to reel in the long line in order
that I might be better prepared for the arrival of the ex-
pected game.

The sounds which I have previously mentioned had not
been heard by •' Tom," and, in fact, were so indistinctly per-
ceptible to r.y ear as to call forth no comment from me,
although my eye was instinctively fixed on that portion of
the shore nearest to the point where they had seemed to
originate. Scarcely had one minute elapsed since I had
heard the crackling sounds in the woods before a large

iti:

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

257

ap-
the

doe made her appearance on the shore at the point which
I was then watching. She did not break cover at a single
bound, as is sometimes the case with the rr»embers of her
family, but trotted slowly into the water, and showed, at
this moment, no indications of fear or even anxiety. She
had entered the Inke directly in iVont of our canoe, al-
though possibly about r"- hundred yards distant from us.
The course at first tak n the water was directly towards
us, and we were very careful to make no movement which
might attract her attention. She swam out into the lake
about eighty yards, apparently entirely uninfluenced by
any sense of fear or danger; but now began to sniff the
air, move her ears and then turn her head in various direc-
tions, evidently endeavoring to sight the object which she
had already scented. During this perioa she made very
slow progress in swimming, although still coming towards
us, but at a very slow rate of speed ; and finally, when
about one hu.idred yards from the shore, she turned up
the lake and continued to swim at about the same dis-
tance from the land. She had now headed directly towards
the captain's canoe, which was probably two thousand yards
distant from her. She still condnued to turn her head
occasionally towards our cauoe, — evid 'ntly expecting that
an enemy would assail her from that direction. Her ner-
vous movements were still expressive of anxiety. We
had hoped that she would leave the shore, and thus afford
us an opportunity to bring our canoe between her and the
land; but her movements were entirely unfavf 'able for the
accomplishment of this object.

The captain had carefully watched her from '■he moment

25S

THFs SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

when he had first discovered her in the lake, which was
only a few moments after she broke cover, He, too,
remained inactive for a while, for the same reasons that
had prompted us to this course, particularly because, the
animal was so near to the shore that she could easily put
herself, with little loss of time, on dry land. He finally
tired of this mactivity and started energetically forward in
the chase. Both "Tom" and myself had been carefully
watching him, and consequently recognized the first stroke
which he made with his paddle. The scene was now very
interesting and highly picturesque; the old doe was likely
to be surprised ; ;;he was stiii looking for an enemy to
appear from the lower part of the lake, having already
scented us, while the captain was coming down on her
from the head of the same waters. Behold the enemy !
There they come. The boy sits motionless in the bow of
the canoe ; his right hand rests gently on the breecli uf his
gun; the captain is near the stern of the frail bark; his
strong arm.s work vigorously and noiselessly the paddle.
The little vessel moves rapidly forward in a straight line,
but its movements are noiseless although the water fairly
boils about its bow and stern. They are now within five
hundred yards of the prize ; the deer is still swimming
towards them; at this moment "Tom" placed his paddle
in the water and entered the race. A few minutes later
she discovered the captain's canoe bearing down upon her,
and promptly turned around in the water and commenced
a desperate effort to reach the nin-way by which she en-
tered the lake. Behold her frantic efforts! She is mad-
dened by the appearance of an unexpected enemy ; she

Hi:

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

259

h was

2, too,

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my ; she

struggles desperately in the water ; raises herself high
into the air and then setdes down to her grandest efforts
in swimming. Both canoes are rapidly closing in upon
her ; she has discovered the danger of her situation. The
captain's canoe is now within a hundred yards of the
frightened deer; but "Tom" is still more than four hun-
dred yards away. The boy has raised his gun ; is taking
aim. Puff goes the smoke from the muzzle of his fowling-
piece ; the charge of bucksho<; passed a little above her
head and she is unharmed. The boy is now making a
desperate effort to remove the empty shell from his single-
barrel breech-loading gun. The captain has brought the
canoe within sixty yards of the old doe. Behold them !
He has dropped the paddle, taken the gun from the boy's
hand, and is now endeavoring to remove the empty shell,
which he accomplished after the loss of a few seconds of
valuable time. The gun is then handed back to the boy,
after having been reloaded, but the distance between the
floating canoe and the rapidly-swimming deer \\? .. increased
during this interval. "Tom," on the contrary, has suc-
ceeded in bringing his canoe within about two hundred
yards of the game ; but the deer is now almost ready to
leap on the shore. I have seized my repeating Winches-
ter rifle and will try a shot at the escaping animal. Two
shots are fired in rapid succession : one before she had
raised from the water and the other just as she leaped on
the dry land, but she has not halted at my command. The
captain failed to bring the deer within the range of the
boy's gun after it was reloaded. Thus ended a very ex-
citing chase.

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26o

2 HE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

'\-4

J 1

ill

CHAPTER XIII.

The Continuance of the Dker-Hunt — An Exciting Chase — Brilliant Man-

CEUVRING OF AN OLD BUCK — BREAKING CAMP ON THE ISLAND— A PaR-

tridge-Hunt hy the Roadside— An Exciting Race between "Jim" and
the Old Cocker Spaniel — Our Return to Maganetawan — The Trip
FROM Maganetawan to T(jronto.

HE details of the morning hunt have al-
ready been given, but there still remains
to be describe aore exciting chase,

which occurred in the afternoon of the
same day. The morning of this day was
cloudy, but the evening was cool and
cloudless, while the sun shone out brightly.
It was therefore determined soon after the mid-day meal
that "Jim" should go again into the woods with the hounds
and try to send us a deer. In accordance with this deter-
mination he was promptly moving away from our camp
with the hounds in the canoe.

The other canoes followed him after a delay of about
half an hour. The captain was again in the company of
my son, while I was attended by "Tom," as in the morn-
ing. We expected the deer would come to the lake by
the same run-way as was chosen by the old doe in the
morning. The captain, however, stationed "Tom's" canoe
about one mile from the point where the aoc c:it ed the
water. He, however, selected an acivan.ciji.eous ^ojition
for himself and the lad, which vas murr iV^a •.* \j this

■ '^*rm'" -~-.-^|— .

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

261

point. The afternoon dragged slowly away without the
occurrence of any exciting event until after four o'clock.
The waters of the lake were motionless ; scarcely moved
by a single ripple. The watch for the appearance of tlie
deer was constant and faithful, and not limited to the par-
ticular point at which he was expected to make his appear-
ance. We were somewhat discouraged by the non-arrival
of the expected visitor, wlien we discovered that the cap-
tain had sighted game and was already in motion. Our
canoe was quickly brought into motion and headed in the
direction indicated by the captain's movements, although
he is more than half a mile away from us. We are
thoroughly satisfied that the deer is visible to him, since
he never paddles with so much energy and skill except
when actually engaged in the chase. We are rapidly ap-
proaching each other, and now catch our first glimpse of
the deer's head, which, in the distance, appeared not larger
than a small duck resting on the surface of the water.
The captain is much nearer to the game than we are at
this moment. "Tom" is working the paddle as though
his life depended on his individual exertion. The cap-
tain's canoe shoots through the water like a thing of life.
It is a grand sight, worthy the brush of an artist. On-
ward, still onward, over the silvery waters of the lake
rushed our canoes towards the living goal which was yet
unconscious of the danger. It was a long and hard pull
for those who held the paddles, but we gained rapidly on
the leisurely-swimming deer. The captain had succeeded
in bringing his canoe within a few hundred yards of the
animal before he was discovered, but unfortunately she

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7:^^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

was at this moment only a short distance from the shore.
Instantly her head was turned cowards the land, and here
followed the desperate efforts to make her escape, but it
is an old story and I shall not now repeat it. The captain
redoubled his efforts with the paddle, and "Tom" followed
his example. The deer having reached a spot where she
was not more than forty yards from the dry land, the
captain quickly dropped the paddle and seized a Win-
chester repeating-rifle, which was lying in the bottom of
his canoe, and l."^gan a lively fusillade, which was directed
at the poor animal's head, although he was at this moment
about three hundred yards from the object which he sought
to pierce with the leaden bullet. "Tom" now brought our
canoe within a range of about five hundred yards, when I
raised my rifle and joined in the music. " Tom" continued
to push forward his little bark without the slightest in-
terruption, while the captain was floating slowly forward.
Bang ! bang ! bang ! go the rifles ; the balls are skipping
over the water in close proximity to the exposed head,
while the animal is making the most frantic efforts to
escape. She is now almost ready to leap from the water,
but the captain is waiting for the favorable moment to send
a bullet into her body. She has risen, when the crack of
the captain's rifle is heard, and she falls back into the water
again. Is she dead ? No. In another instant she is again
on her feet, and after taking three bounds she is covered
by the friendly darkness of the forest. We now pushed
forward to the spot where she had left the lake. Here we
beheld her blood mingling with the water, and this confirmed
the opinion which we had previously formed, that she had

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OA', THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

265

been wounded. "Jim" was now seen to be approaching
us with the hounds in his canoe. We beckoned to him to
hurry forward with the dogs. He could not hear us and did
not understand our signals. " Tom" pointed his canoe to-
wards that in which " Jim" was seated and then paddled away
with all his might. "Jim" now began to comprehend what
was wanted at this moment. He therefore redoubled the
speed of his vessel. We were soon enabled by loud shout-
ing to make him understand that we had wounded the
deer and desired to put the hounds on her trail. He was
deeply interested, and promptly entered heartily into the
work. The hounds were brought to the spot where the
deer left the water. Thev bounded excifedly from the
canoe and entered the forest with ringing voices, I had
«^z /', previously, heard so luch noise made in the same
limited time by two dogs. I remarked to the captain,
*' Your dogs are not mt rely giving tongue, but they are
fairiy yelling T and he replied, " They are almost mad-
dened by the smell of blood." Their entrance into the
forest was followed within a few minutes by a loud crack-
ling in the brush, which convinced us that they were «il»
jrady close upon tlx wounded animal. A few seconds
later the poor deer rushed frantically from the wooccS and
leaped into the lake, but she still apjxirently remembered
that on the water there was yet a merciless enemy, since
she contented herself by swimming a narrow bay and then
again disappeared in the dark woods.

She had thus cunningly attempted to throw the hounds
off her scent, while at the same time she most adroitly
avoided a contact with us. Darkness was already gather-

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364

TJIE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE.

ing about us, but the end had not yet been reached. The
passage of the deer across this bay had been observed by
our party, but we were too far away to offer any protest
to this procedure. A ^&vf seconds later the hounds made
their appearance on the shore where she had entered the
bay. One immediately entered the water and swam across,
apparendy in the wake left behind the poor fugitive, while
the other ran the shore. During this last performance the
hounds gave no music, and their silence was almost pain-
ful to us ; but the moment they started off on the trail
which she had made when she left the bay, they again
yelled with all their might.

The captain at this moment promptly turned the bow
of his canoe towards the head of the lake, saying, " She
must take to the water again ; she cannot live in the
woods." The other canoes followed slowly, while we lis-
tened attentively to the sounds uttered by the hounds.
Thus we were convinced that the poor deer was painfully
conscious of her own weakness, and therefore kept close
to tlie lake that she might in an emergency leap into the
water and thus escape from the hounds. The objective-
point for which the captain had started waH situated more
than a mile fram the lay which tln' wounded deer had
crossed. The h©undh5 foJWwed her dosely to this jiorlinn
of thf lake, and then their voices were suddenly silenced.
The question was then quickly asked by on(i of our party,
**What has happened?" and the ft"H|Minsr was immediately
given by both th'- other members, " riie deer has taken to
the water and is again swimming."

We then listened attentively for another report in this

" We found them standing on the dry ground, while the doe was lying at their
feet and the hounds were fawning about then. '

266

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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case, which camo to us after the lapse of about fifteen
minutes. It was made by the firing of two shots from the
fowling-piece. "Jim" now quickly remarked, "The boy
has now taken a hand in this sport ; the deer is dead, and
that report was not made by the rifle." We pulled away
for the upper part of the lake, which was reached in due
time, and here we found the captain, who had verified the
correctnc.is of his prediction. The deer had been com-
pelled by the hounds to take to the water again, and was
killed by the boy while swimming. The same thing had
happened here as in the lower portion of the lake. One
of the hounds had followed her into the water, while the
other remained behind on the shore. The first shot fired
by the lad missed her head in the partial darkness of the
evening, but the second had killed her. Beforf; we reached
the captain and the boy they had towed her ashore, and
we found them standing on the dry ground, while the doe
was lying at their feet and the hounds were fawning about
them.

We discovered at this time that the animal had been
struck by the rifle-ball In the right thigh, making a com-
pound fracture of the femur, consequently she had been
compelled to make the last run on three legs. The whole
number of shots fired at her were probably about twenty.
The chase was one of the most exciting that I have ever
participated in, but it should not be forgotten that in the
first encounter all the shots were fired ^Vom a long range.

Daylight having disappeared, we were consequently
prompted to return to our camp. The deer was, therefore,
placed in one of our canoes, and the hounds invited to

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 267

share with us a place in our little barks, and we were off
to our tents.

The reader's attention has been directed to the wonder-
ful manifestation of intelligence or instinct on the p.iri of
this doe, which had just been killed, when she, in ihe one
instance, took to the water in order to throw the hounds
off her trail, and then very promptly returned to the woods

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for the purpose of avoiding a second encounter with an
enemy more dreadful than the dogs. Later on we find her
keeping close to the lake-shore, in order that she might be
thus enabled to baffle the hounds once more if the neces-
sity should arise.

A few days after the occurrences that we have just re-
corded an opportunity was again given us to study some
very fine manoeuvring on the part of an old buck, in order
to throw the keen-scented ho.mds off his trail. This game
was so well played that it cannot fail to interest those who
read it. The hounds had been taken into the woods on
this occasion by the faithful "Tom," and nearly two hours
had elapsed before we heard their baying, which was as
yet rather indistinct.

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Knowing full well that the game was now in motion,
"Jim" promptly passed from the shore on which he war
standing to his canoe, which was at this moment resting
lightly on the water near him. The example of my guide
was quickly followed by me, and the little bark was promptly
brought out into the lake, which gave u.> a broader view
of our surroundings. The baying of the hounds was
occasionally lost to us- but after the lapse of a longer or
shorter interval these sounds were again audible. It was
very evident to our minds that the deer, when first started
by the hounds, had not m.oved off in a direct line for the
water, but had circled about in the woods; therefore "Jim"
concluded, thus early in th^ chase, that our hounds were
running a strong buck.

The opinion here expressed is based on observation,
and is supposed to have its origin in the greater strength
and superior confidence possessed by these males, since
the females and fawns, when started by hounds, run imme-
diately to the water; in which, by swimming, they can
easily distance their tormentors, — where, as a matter of
fact, they rarely attempt to follow them.

Having gained a position on the lake which enabled us
to examine the various objects along the shore for a con-
siderable distance, we soon discovered a large bi ck, which
was walking in the water at this time, and occasionally
stopping to listen to the hounds. These animals were
nov/ rapidly approaching the lake, and every moment ren-
dered their voices more distinct to us. The old buck did
not seem to be particularly anxious for his own safety, but
was, nevertheless, moving very cautiously in order to throw

11:'

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

269

the hounds rff his trail. He remained in the water con-
tinuously, either walking, trotting, or swimming, except
when brought in contact with a point of land extending
out into the lake a considerable distance, when he would
boldly leave the water, cross the point, and again resume
his peregrinations along the shore. In this manner the
shrewd animal traversed more than a mile along the lake-
shore, while we were following in our canoe behind him.
He finally passed from the range of our vision for a brief
period, and when next discovered by us had taken to the
deep waters of the lake, and was at this moment swim-
ming directly towards us, with the apparent intention of
returning to his forest home by the same run-way by which
he had left it. The hounds, in the mean while, had reached
the lake, and were now following slowly along the shore.
They had already ceased to give tongue and were appar-
ently discouraged and despoiident.

I had never previously witnessed, on the part of a deer,
so much coolness and intelligent manoeuvring as had taken
place in this case. Every movement by this animal had
been characterized by caution and intelligence. He was
evidently on the alert, as was shown by the various attitudes
which he assumr?d and the movements which he made. It
seemed to us that he haH a fixed plan which he was en-
deavoring to execute ; and the plan itself spoke well for
his intelligence ; but cfur presence on the lake, where we
had not yet been observed by him, was the sole cause of
its failure and his misfortune. Having discovered him
well out in the lake and swimming directly towards us, we
immediately placed our canoe partially behind an island.

1 1

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270

TIfE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

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near which it was lying at the moment of the discovery,
assuming such a position tliat we could continue to watch
the approaching animal, while we were, at the same time,
unobserved. Onward he came, while his large antlers
were visible in the bright sunlight, as well as his head and
his large, shapely neck. Patiently we waited for the arri-
val of the moment when we should start boldly in the
chase for him, when he should have passed so far from
the land that we could be assured of overtaking him
before he could reach the cover of the woods. The
proper moment having arrived the canoe darted rapidly
from its cover, driven forward by two paddles, while the
water fairly boiled about its bow. The author was now
aiding the guide in hastening forward the little bark.

The old buck had not yet discovered us, and was, there-
fore, swimming direcdy forward, as if he even desired the
{ meeting; but be assured, my reader, that the moment he
either sights or scents us he will make a change in his
course and greatly accelerate his speed. On, onward we
sped! On, onward he came! Two thousand yards now
separated us, but we were discovered ! He had dropped
his ears, turned his head, and was now bounding through
the water towards the nearest land, but, alas. It was too late !
The victory was ours ! The poor animal had been fairly
ambushed ! The question uppermost in my mind at this
moment is. Do animals reason ? In the case of this deer
it seems impossible to reconcile his varied movements con-
sistently with the belief that instinct instead of a reasoning
faculty controlled his action. It was observed that he lis-
tened attentively to the baying of the hounds, and that his

^: 1

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

271

course and movements appeared to be based on the in-
form-ition thus conveyed to him. Another observation was
made during this hunt bearing on the acuteness of the
sense of smell in the red deer, which is regarded as worthy
of a brief report in this little work. The hounds had been
taken into the woods for the purpose of driving deer into
the lake, while "Jim" and myself were keeping a watch on
one of the many islands of this beautiful sheet of water.
This island was situated about three hundred yards from
the mainland, where it was thought the deer might enter.
We had continuf:d to watch about three hours, when I dis-
covered a buck walk leisurely out of the woods and un-
concernedly pass down a sloping rock to the water, which
he entered unhesitatingly and without causing any noise
that was perceptible at our stand. We had not heard the
hounds at any time during the morning prior to the ap-
pearance of this deer, and their cry was not audible to
us even at this moment. The deer, immediately after
entering the water, began to swim direcdy towards us.
We were at this moment seated in our birch-bark canoe,
and remained completely immovable and cautiously ob-
served the approaching animal. He had not placed more
than eighty yards between himself and the point at which
he had entered the lake when he began to exhibit signs
of alarm by moving his ears, snuffing in air, and turning
his head in different directions, evidently for the purpose
of sighting the object which he had already discovered by
the sense of smell. In this effort he was certainly unsuc-
cessful, since he did not immediately turn towards the
mainland, but began to swim away from us in a line par-

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2/2

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE,-

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allel with the shore of the island on v.'hich we still re-
mained unseen by him. The course taken by this animal
was that which, with the prevailing wind, would carry him
most promptly beyond the limits of the scent which un-
questionably pertained to us, although it was not such as
to give him the highest degree of security under the cir-
cumstances. I am thoroughly convinced that his action at
this time was entirely controlled by the sense of smell, and
it is, likewise, an additional argument in favor of the pos-
session of rational faculties.

The deer-hunt on the Lake of Many Islands having
been completed, it now remained for us to commence the
homeward journey. An arrangement had already been
made with the owner of the team that had brought us into
the woods to return to the place and take out our baggage
on the following day. My son was not yet satisfied with
the opportunity which had been given him to shoot ruffed
grouse, and therefore it was settled that the lad should have
an extra day for this sport

We were now about fifteen miles from Maganetawan
village, and a little more than four miles from the Nip-
issing and Maganetawan road. It was therefore decided
that "Jim," in company with myself and son, should leave
our camp on the island the day before the team was ex-
pected to make its arrival. In accordance with this deter-
mination we took our departure about three o'clock in the
afternoon. " Tom" followed with a pack, consisting of our
tent, blankets, and provisions, about an hour later. We
were accompanied by a cocker-spaniel and a small mongrel
dog which had been previously borrowed from a settler in

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 27 ^

this region, for tiie purpose of aiding in our search for
grouse. The morning had been rainy, and consequently
the trees, which were yet covered with a heavy fohage,
were still loaded with water, and, as if to add to this im-
favorable condition, there were several light showers
during the afternoon before we reached our destination,
which was the Nipissing and Maganetawan road. Owing
to the unfavorable condition of the forest there was no
effort made by us to procure game during the afternoon.

This tramp was a rather dull affair, owing to the circum-
stances surrounding us, but the road was reached in due
time. "Tom" came up with the pack soon after our
arrival, and our attention was immediately given to the
erection of the tent and other preparations for the night.
Scarcely had these preparations been completed when a
heavy rain set in, which continued until daylight the fol-
lowing morning. "Jim" prepared the breakfast, and we
were ready to start on our tramp about seven o'clock in
the morning. The woods were very wet, and conse-
quently we had no intention of leaving the road unless
seduced into such action by the barking of the dogs, which
informed us of the close proximity to us of the ruffed
grouse. Having completed our arrangements we were
off, leaving the tent standing where it was erected the
previous evening, on the roadside, while the baggage had
been carefully stowed away under it. It had been pre-
viously arranged with the captain that he should superin-
tend the gathering up of the luggage and its transporta-
tion to Maganetawan.

The morning of this start had been cloudy and threat-

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274

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

ened rain at the moment of our departure, and conse-
quently we strapped up our waterproofs and carried them
with us. We had not tramped more than a half-mile when
the earnest barking of the dogs a few rods from the road
proclaimed to us that they had found a partridge. "Jim"
was eager for sport, and therefore disregarded the pros-
pect of receiving a shower-bath ; rushed rapidly from the
road to the woods, where we soon heard him shouting to
the lad to " come and kill the bird." The boy was off in
the twinkling of an eye, perfecdy willing to take a cold
shower-bath if he could kill a single partridge.

I was surprised that "Jim" should have shown so much
anxiety in regard to the lad's shooting in this particular
case ; but I subsequently learned that he was unable to
work his gun, owing to the fact that his cartridges had
been thoroughly saturated v^rith water. The boy's arrival
on the ground was a little too late, since the bird had
shifted its position and they were unable to find it after-
wards, although they spent fully twenty minutes in the
search, and finally returned from the swamp as wet as
drowned rats.

"Jim's" manner indicated that he was much chagrined
by the failure, but by philosophically reasoning he had suc-
ceeded in convincing himself of the wisdom of his action,
and boldly asserted that " I shall no longer dread to enter
the swamp, since I care nothing for either mud or water."
We now journeyed on, and were very soon informed by
our dogs that they had found another partridge in the
swamp, not more than ten rods from the road on which we
were tramping. "Jim" instandy sprung into the woods and

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

275

Is a

"was quickly lost to sight ; although within five minutes he
reported progress by firing his shot-gun, and instantly
shouted, "I have him this time!" while a few minutes later
he returned to the road holding up for our inspection a
large cock bird which he had killed at the first shot, while
the bird was quietly setding on the branch of a small ever-
green-tree.

The clouds have begun to disappear, the bright rays
■of sunshine are now lighting up our pathway, while the
gende zephyrs are moving the foliage of the forest- trees.
The prospects of a fine day's sport are brightening at this
moment. "Jim" exclaims, "We will have a good day of it
yet !" while at the same time a partridge rises at the road-
side, — an event which is announced to us by the barking
of the cocker-spaniel. This dog had taken his posidon at
the foot of a small tree, the branches of which even over-
hung the road-way, and here continued to bark lustily,
thus keeping the attention of the bird until the lad sent
tip his compliments, which she promptly acknowledged by
tumbling to the ground.

The killing of this bird gave rise to a highly ludicrous
scene, which I fully appreciated at the time, and v/hich I
can never readily forget. "Jim" had previously told me
that the old cocker-spaniel had a very bad habit, and would
" mouth'' the birds whenever he could get hold of them, while
he entirely disregarded the order to " bring dead bird."
The owner of this dog had, likewise, informed me that the
animal had never received any training, but naturally
hunted very well and was a good " treer." The instant
the lad fired at this bird "Jim" sprang into the woods with

276

Tff£ SPORlSMAiV'S PARADISE;

t"<

pi.

(■ ,

I I

the alacrity of a hound, in order to grab the fallinrr par-
tridge before the old cocker could get hold of him. The
old cocker, however, succeeded in getting the best of
"Jim," grabbed the bird in his mouth and started off at
full speed, while the guide followed him on the jump, as a
fox-hound might follow a hare, shouting with every bound,
''Stop! stop! drop it ! drop it !'' until the woods became
fairly resonant with these sounds. A few seconds later
the dog emerged from the woods, still clinging to the
bird, closely followed by the irate guide, who still yelled
as though his life depended on this effort. Here the old
dog made the fatal mistake which finally cost him the prize
which he had attempted to steal. He started down the
road as rapidly as he could run, but "Jim" steadily gained
on him. Jim was wearing on this occasion a pair of
heavy leather brogans, which contained in the soles about
fifty steel spikes. These shoes, in fact, were procured
by him while he was engaged in that occupation com-
monly designated as ''river-driving^' and these spikes
were intended to nail him firmly to the floating logs, and
thus prevent accident or injury from slipping. The road
on which this race between the old cocker and our guide
took place was nearly a mass of rocks ; generally flat on
the upper surface, which formed the road-bed, although
they possessed many irregularities of surface, size, etc.
The moment the guide and dog emerged from the woods
and started off on this road they were in full view of both,
my son and myself. The sparks eliminated by the con-
tact of the spikes in "Jim's" brogans with the rocks in
his pathway lighted up his trail and added gready to the

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 2^7

ludicrousness of the scene. The race may be fairly said
to have been nip and tuck, but the guide is slowly gain-
ing on^ the cocker. They had run about ten rods when
"Jim's" brogans were in close proximity to the old dog's
tail. It seemed highly probable at this moment that the
guide's spiked shoes would be used as a petard for the
destruction of the fugitive thief, but no, he has deter-
mined to capture him alive! Behold them at this mo-
ment! "Jim" has dropped with the intention of seizing
the old rascal with his hands. The old dog— as if antici-
pating this movement— has suddenly jumped to one side,
and instantly turned to retrace his steps. "Jim" struck
the ground with a heavy thud, but was neither killed nor
severely injured by this manoeuvre. The dog, however, in
the mean time, has been rapidly gaining on the guide and
was well started on the homew.;-d stretch. He occasionally
turned his head in order to catch a glimpse of his pursuer,
but he did not halt nor even slacken his pace. "Jim" was
soon on his feet again, but not until the dog had secured a
good start. The guide was maddened by failure, and re-
sumed the race with a fierce determination to win. Every
second shortened the distance between the contestants when
"Jim" had fairly succeeded in getting under way. The old
dog seemed to fully comprehend the gravity of the situa-
tion, and occasionally turned his head for the purpose
of discovering and estimating his danger. He had passed
safely one-half of the home-stretch, but was at this mo-
ment compelled to drop the bird from his mouth. "Jim"
was at this moment close upon the dog's heels, but he
heeded not the dead bird, and was evidently determined

278

THE SP0R7'SMAN'S PARADISE:

f "

to piinisli the thief. The old cocker showed at this time
unmistakable si^ns of exhaustion and fear, and was un-
questionably repentant. "Jim's" brogans were once more
at the dog's caudal extremity, when he suddenly dodged
aside and endeavored to reach the cover of the woods ; but
he was too completely exhausted to accomplish this object.
He dropped to the ground and looked imploringly into
"Jim's" eyes for mercy; but "Jim" heeded not the implor-
ing looks and cringing attitude of the old rascal. He had
him by the nape of the neck, and promptly administered
the well-merited punishment. The old aog fairly yelled
with pain, and "Jim" yelled back to him, "Steal the boy's
bird, win you ? I ivill teach you honesty. I will, you old
rascal r

The whole scene had been watched by the boy and
myself. The comical part played by the actors can be
more easily imagined than described. It caused peal after
peal of laughter from the lad and myself. The boy finally
dropped down upon the ground before the race ended,
having been so convulsed with laughter as to be unable to
stand erect, while I only remained standing until the race
ended, and then followed my son's example. " Jim" having
administered the necessary chastisement to the dog, like-
wise sought rest on the bosom of mother-earth, while the
old cocker, after having sulked a few moments in the
woods, came sneakingly out and cautiously approached
the contestant in the race, licked affectionately his hand,
and then looked up imploringly into his eyes. The dog
having thus humbly acknowledged the justice of the pun-
ishment which had been inflicted upon him, was then freely

-I; )f

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

279

forgiven by "Jim," who patted him affectionately on the
head and back.

Thus there was perfect harmony between the jj^iilde and
the spaniel. The dog immediately reclined at "Jim's" side,
placed his head affectionately on his piaster ; having as-
sumed a position which enabled him to look wistfully into
the latter's face. Our little mongrel dog had not rf.mained
entirely inactive during these exciting events. In the race
he participated, although falling far behind both actors;
nevertheless he barked and wagged his tail continuously,
thus showing the joy and interest which he felt in this part
of the proceedings, although when the chastisement com-
menced he drew his tail between his legs, suddenly disap-
peared in the woods, ""d only reappeared after the lapse of
an hour. This halt by the roadside lasted about three-
fourths of an hour and then we started forward once more.
We had not proceeded more than half a mile when the
spirited barking of the old cocker-spaniel announced tliat
he had found another partridge only a few rods from the
road. "Jim" and the boy started off for this game. Five
minutes later the report of the lad's gun proclaimed the
death of this bird, while the guide and my son soon re-
turned to the highway. They reported that the old dog
had made no attempt on this occasion to secure the bird
when it fell to the ground, but, on the contrary, he had not
moved from where he was standing, and allowed the guide
to approach quietly the dead bird and to pocket the same.
In fact, it may be here stated that we had no further trouble
with this dog during the remainder of the hunt. He had
previously shown much affection for " Jim ;" but after the

L'l. . I

7 •< '

[|;>i

? "1
i' »s

280

TJ/E SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

race and the chastisement which he received he was cer-
tainly doubly affectionate towards his master. He had
always hunted faithfully for us, but during the balance of
the day he seemed to be more than usually active and
found many birds by the roadside.

On one occasion during the afternoon, when he had
been absent from us about an hour, we heard him barking
sharply a comparatively long distance from the road. His
earnest bark satisfied us beyond a doubt that he had found
a bird and desired our assistance.

The question was promptly discussed whether we
should render the aid which he now sought. The bird
was nearly a half-mile from us : vould the dog be able to
keep the attention of tl)p partridge until one of our party
could reach the spot ? This seemed rather doubtful, but
"Jim" was anxious to make the atte.npt, while neither my-
self nor my son desired to offer any objection. He there-
fore started off with a lively step and very pleasant an-
ticipations. The loud barking of the spaniel continued
without any interruption until the death of the bird was
announced by the report of "Jim's" fowling-piece. During
this time the lad and mvself patiendy awaited the return
of " Jim," but he was absent nearly half an hour, and in
the mean time we had rested by the roadside.

The dog returned with his master, and both were ap-
parently wel! pleased with the result of their labor. The
day's sport had been very satisfactory. The boy had killed
four birds and ' Jim" had bagged two. This result had
been accomplished without leaving the road for any con-
siderable period of time, except in the case which has just

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

281

been reported. We had now approached within two miles
of the village of Maganetawan. The most of the land
bordering on the road had been cleared, was now culti-
vafd, and consequently we did not expect to find any
more birds, unless we turned aside from the highway and
made search in the woods bordering on the fields. This
course of procedure required a greater efibrt than we were
now inclined to make. Consequently we continued to plod
alor.g the road, and soon arrived at the Maganetawan
Hotel, where we were once more kindly met by the pro-
prietor. It was then about thrt . o'clock in the afternoon,
and inasmuch as we were very hungry, having had no
dinn' chat day, our genial host was requested to prepare
for U3 a hot meal. The order was kindly received and
promptly executed, while the charge for this excellent meal
for our whole party, consisting of three persons, was only
seventy-five cents.

The captain and "Tom" arrived about three hours
later, bringing with them our luggage and the trophies of
the hunt. They reported that the wagon which we had
engaged to remove our luggage from camp had arrived
at the lake-shore on time. But prior to its arrival the
captain had disposed of the venison to the lumbermen in
the vicinity, who were engaged In making roads, building
shanties, and opening the small outlet of the lake in order
that timber cut here during the approaching winter and
placed on the ice might be floated away in the spring. He
had likewise taken down the guide's tent, which was stand-
ing on the Island at the time of our departure, and gath-
ered up the baggage which we had lef" behind, and moved

282

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

the same with our canoes to the shore, where it was ac-
cessible to the approach of the wagon. Therefore there
had been no important delay after the arrival of the team
at the lake. The homeward journey was promptly begun,
and the tent which we left standing by the roadside in the
morning was gathered up by them when they reached this
point, after which they proceeded onward to the village of
Magaietawan.

The guides remained with us about two hours after
their arrival, and assisted us in repacking our baggage
after we had exchanged our hunting-suits for those in
which we were to travel. It may be here added for the
benefit of those readers who are unacquainted in the vil-
lage of Maganetavvan, that it was found impossible to
obtain the luxury of a bath-tub, and it was only after a
long and diligent search that I found a citizen who was
willing to undertake the task of shaving my face, since
barbers and barber-shops are still unknown in this primi-
tive settlement.

Having completed the arrangements for our departure
from this village on the following morning at an early hour,
we retired to our room for sleep at about ten o'clock in the
evening. We were aroused from our slumbers by a hotel
servant about three o'clock the next morning; promptly
donned our clothing and soon appeared at the foot of the
stairs, whe e we met the man who had called us, and who
then infoi .led us that he was in readiness to conduct us
to the steamboat which was to convey us to Burk's Falls.
He then placed our baggage on an ordinary wheelbarrow,
seized the handles, and moved forwards towards the steam-

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

283

boat wharf. This wharf was located about one-half mile
fiOm the hotel, and in order to reach it we were compelled
to cross the fields, where we encountered many obstacles,
especially mud and occasional patches of ice.

The boat, at the moment of our arrival, had already
gotten up steam, and moved away from the wharf about
fifteen minutes later. She was ably manned by the captain
and his jolly crew, which consisted of a single individual,
who attended to all the duties required on this steamboat
which were not performed by the captain. My son and
myself were the only passengers in the cabin of the boat
this morning, although she could have carried very com-
fortably about eight or ten persons.

The village of Burk's Falls is situated on the banks of
the Maganetawan River, about thirty-five miles above the
village of Maganetawan. The river route by which we
were now travelling was very enjoyable, since the scenery
is very picturesque. The whole distance is traversed in the
short space of five hours under favorable circumstances.
My son, after entering the cabin of the steamboat, found
his surroundings so favorable to sleep that he promptly
entered the embrace of old Morpheus, and continued to
enjoy the most delightful repose until we had arrived
within a few miles of the end of our journeying by water.

Nine o'clock that morning found us seated at Burk's
hotel table enjoying a good breakfast, having been
promptly transported by an open passenger-wagon to
this inn immediately after the arrival of the steamboat.
The driver of the wagon patiently waited for us while we
breakfasted and then drove us to the railroad depot.

284

THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE;

IP.1

I ■

'III

The train on which we were to travel to Toronto did
not arrive promptly that morning, and consequently we
were compelled to remain at this station about an hour.
My son during this period kept a close watch on the
market-basket containing the ruffed grouse, which he was
very anxious to convey to his mother and sister, who were
now stopping at the Queen's Hotel in Toronto, where we
expected to arrive about eight o'clock that evening. The
train finally arrived, and we promptly entered the cars,
which were roughly constructed and primitive in their ap-
pearance. There were on the train at the time about
twenty passengers. The greater number of them were
pioneers from the backwoods, who had that morning left
their log cabins for a day's recreation in travel over this
newly-constructed railroad, the completion of which was
expected to mark a new era of prosperity and happiness
in their lives. Among this class of passengers there was
one who was especially conspicuous. He was evidently a
sturdy son of toil, and had spent several years in the back-
woods, although a Scotchman by birth and education, who
proclaimed his nativity by his brogue, features, and the
dress that he wore.

The appearance of the man indicated that he had al-
ready passed threescore years or more. He carried with
him on this occasion his bagpipes, and entertained us with
his choicest music, while a happy smile lighted up his
wrinkled face. He played on the old musical instrument
with great energy, and scarcely halted for breath so long
as two or three of the passengers seemed willing to give
him audience. He manifested much anxiety, whenever the

OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

285

train halted at the different stations along the route, to en-
tertain with his musical performances all the persons in or
about the cars. At such times he took great pains to seat
himself in such a position that all who heard the music
might at the same time behold the instrument and the per-
former. In this manner the old Scotchman labored the
whole forenoon for the entertainment of others, neither
asking nor receiving a single penny for his services ; but
the manner and the expressions of the entertainer indicated
that he was even better pleased than those whom he had
sought to entertain.

This train dragged along slowly during the forenoon,
although there were few stopping-places, since we were pass-
ing only through a forest or very sparsely-settled country.

During the afternoon we changed to another train and
then proceeded rapidly towards Toronto, where we arrived
about half-past eight in the evening. We had anxiously
looked forward during the whole day to our arrival at this
point, since we earnestly desired to join the other mem-
bers of our family, who were then stopping at the Queen's
Hotel.

The lad returned to his mother and sister greatly elated
by his success in hunting, and even to this hour he regards
the time thus spent as the happiest period of his life.

.,.^*v^

That retriever.

IMK

'i.

INDEX.

A thunder-storm, 73.

A hard bed, 73.

A shot at a moose, 167.

A youthful driver, ?22.

A beaver-house and family, 136.

A hard dinner, bread frozen, 231.

An exciting chase, 144.

An old Scotchman and his bagpipe, 284.

Animal intelligence, 267.

Anton Miltenberger, the photographer, 8i.

Baysville, travelling towards, 27.

T^iysville, departure from, 28.

Beaver trysting-place, 115.

Bess, Mr., proprietor of the stage line, 97.

Bear's food-supply, 235.

Bear, path of, 225.

Bob Noble, a guide, 69.

Bob Noble in a sad plight, 76.

Boy, killed his first deer, 255.

Boy's first deer-hunt, 253.

Bracebridge reached, 25.

Break camp at Long Lake, 176.

Bride, personal appearance of, 91.

Burk's Falls, departure from, 118.

Burk's Falls, village of, 283.

Buck, manoeuvring of, 268,

Camp, break on Long Lake, 175.

Camp near Spence, 105.

Camped on trail leading from Upper Long

Lake to Sugar-Bush Lake, 178
Camped on moose-trail, 196.
Captain Ross "could not kill moose but

did kill deer," 204.
Captain Ross angry and disappointed, 206.
Captain Ross made his appearance, 109.
Captain's deer-dogs, 112.
Captain Ross returned to the party, 131.

Captain George Ross, chief guide, 65.
Captain Ross killed the bull moose, 238.
Canadian custom-house officer, 22.
Canoes leaking badly, 28.
Cabin, Harkness's, 241.
Cathedral, St, James', a magnificent struc-
ture, 61.
Chase, an exciting, 144.
Chase, moose-, excitement of, 193.
Chase of doe, exciting, 256.
Chase of doe, doubly exciting, 261.
Chief John and his hound, 33.
Chief John and his object, 36.
Chief John, poor, unhappy man, 55.
Chief guide. Captain Ross, 65.
" Chris," our old friend, 99.
Classification of hunters, 3.
Crackers and cheese were obtained, 246.

Departure from Burk's Falls, 118.
Departure from Sphynx Falls, 125.
Departure from Mossup's Landing, 127.
Departure from Lake Rosseau, 102.
Departure from Pickerel Lake, 72.
Departure of the wedding guests, 94.
Departure from Baysville, 28.
Deer-hunt, started on, 49.
Deer, first killed, 52.
Deer-hunt on Long Lake, 141.
Deer- and moose-hunt, preparation for, So.
Deer-hunt with villagers, 247.
Deer-hunt, the boy's first, 253.
Deer, the first killed by the boy, 255.
Description of the wedding, 88.
Discover}' of moose, 210.
Disappointment foreshadowed, 227.
Doe, exciting chase, 256.
Doe, doubly exciting chase, 261.
Dogs are fairly yelling, 263,

287

288 INDEX.

'!'; 'f1

^^i'i

I';!

r'i'.i

Dogs, captain's, deer, II2.

Dr. Pokorney, the old deer-hunter, 43.

Dr. Pokorney's son, 57.

Dryinjj venison, 146.

Drunken orgie of luml)ermen, 62.

Dream, photographer's, 163.

Esculapius lost his patience, 28,
Esculapius and Scribe follow John, 38.
Esculapius, a description of, 20.
EsLuIapius, smiling and happy, 32.
Expert fisherman, the Governor, 35.
Exercise, health-giving power, 13.
Exercise, a remedy for obesity, 8.

Falls, Burk's, departure from, 118.

Falls, Sphynx, departure from, 125.

Fisherman, expert, the Governor, 35.

Fish, Governor off for, 37.

Fishing, Governor and myself went, 65.

"Fire at him!" 212.

Free grant lands, 85.

George set fire to frying-pan, 66.

George Ross, chief guide, 65.

Governor starts for home, 68.

Governor remains silent, 30.

Governor never winced, 32.

Governor an expert fisherman, 35.

Governor off for fish, 37.

Governor arrived in front of cabin, 39.

Governor and Esculapius start for Watte's

Creek, 42.
Governor and Esculapius return from

"Watte's Creek, 46.
Governor and myself went fishing, 65.
Governor, description of, 20.
Goldsmith frightened, 17.
Guides, Indian, habits of, 23.
Guides, employed at Toronto, 24.
Guide, Wellington Ross, 82.

Hard bed, 73.

Hard dinner, bread frozen, 23I.

Hard tramp, 245.

Harkness's cabin, 241.

Health-giving power of exercise, 13.

Henry's day with ruflfed grouse, 273

Home, Governor starts for, 63.

Hotel, proprietor of, 16.

Hotel, Pratt's, 63.

Horka-Porka portage, crossing of, 1 27.

Hunt, deer-, on Long Lake, 141.

Hunters, classification of, 3.

Hunters, how they spend their time, 4.

Hunters, true, 5.

Hunting, benefits derived from, 7.

Hunting, a science and an art, 7.

Indian guides, habits of, 23.
Intelligence of animals, 267.

Jim's revelation, 35.

Jim and the old cocker-spaniel, 275,

Jim goes for the cocker and the cocker is

flogged, 277.
John McCarthy, a gamin, 65.
John's inamorata, 37.
John, Chief, object of, 36.
John, Chief, hound of, 33.
John Royall, good services of, 17.

Labor a pleasure, 233.

Lake on mountain-top, 139.

Lake Pickerel, our stay at, 70.

Lake Pickerel, departure from, 72.

Lake Mud, 74.

Lake Loon, camp near, 74,

Lake Sand, start for, 77.

Lake Rosseau, romantic wedding on, tj6.

Lake Sugar-Bush, return to, 220.

Lake of Many Islands, 251.

Lake, Hotel, Ten-Mile, 104.

Landing, Mossup's, departure from, 127.

Leaking badly, canoes, 28.

Lean-to, night under, 208.

Long Lake, start for, 137.

Long Lake, deer-hunt, 141.

Lonely night, 240.

Ludicrous scene, 275.

Lumbermen hors de combat, 64.

Lumbermen, their drunken orgie, 62.

Maganetawan River, scenery, 114.
Magnificent structure, St. James' Cathedral,
61.

ijl'l

INDEX,

289

r IS

j6.

I127.

ledral,

Miltenberger, the photographer, 81.
Moose and deer, preparation for grand

hunt of, 80.
Moose, a shot at, 167.
Moose, trailing, 172.
Moose-calling, 172.
Moose-chase, great excitement of, 19;
Moose-trail, camped on, 196.
Moose-yard, wild excitement in this chase,

198.
Moose, the woods are full of them, 202.
Moose, Captain Ross could not kill, but

did kill deer, 204.
Moose, discovery of, 210.
Moose sighted, 212.
Moose bull killed, 214.
Moose cow wounded, 216.
Moose cow wounded and trailed, 217.
Moose-meat, living on, 219.
Moose photographed, 222.
Moose-bull killed by Captain Ross, 238.
Moose reconnoissance, 182.
Moose reconnoissance, delays, etc., 183.
Mcose reconnoissance, started on, 185.
Moose reconnoissance, a frugal meal, 189.
Moose reconnoissance, buck killed, 191.
Mountain-top, lake on, 139.
Mossup's Landing, departure from, 127.
Mud Lake, 74.

Noble, Bob, a guide, 69.
Noble, Bob, in a sad plight, 76.

Obesity, exercise a remedy for, 8.
Office, we immediately wiJked up to, I4.
Our start for home, 282.

Party attacked by fleas, 66.
Partridge which was not killed, 107.
Partridge-shooting, more of this sport, 279.
Physical exertion, effects of, 2.
Photographer Anton Miltenberger, 81.
Photographer in search of partridges, 1 19,
Photographer wins the prize, 145.
Photographer lost, 152.
Photographer found, 165.
Photographer's wanderings, 156.
Photographer's dream, 163.

Photographer supplied our camp with

ruffed grouse, 223.
Photographed moose, 222.
Pickerel Lake, our stay at, 70.
Pickerel Lake, departure from, 72.
Pioneers, their hardships, 84.
Played out, 246.

Poor Goldsmith thoroughly frightened, 17.
Pokorney, Dr., the old deer-hunter, 43.
Pokorney, Dr., son of, 57.
Proprietor of stage-line, Mr. Bess, 97.
Pratt's Hotel, 63.
Proprietor of hotel, 16.

Reconnoissance, moose, 182
Reconnoissance, moose, delays, etc., 183.
Reconnoissance, moose, started on, 185.
Reconnoissance, moose, a frugal meal, 189.
Reconnoissance, moose, buck killed, 191.
Recreation required, 2.
Restricted, killing of game should be, 134.
Rendezvous, the village, 65.
River Maganetawan, scenery of, 1 14.
Royall, John, good services of, 17.
Ross, Captain, made his appearance, 109.
Ross, Captain, returned to the party, 131.
Ross, Captain, could not kill moose, but

did kill deer, 204.
Ross, Captain, angry and disappointed,

206.
Ross, Captain, chief guide, 65.
Ross, Captain, killed bull moose, 238.
Rosseau, our departure from, 102.
Romantic wedding on an island in Lake

Rosseau, 86.

Sand Lake, started for, 77.

Scenery on Maganetawan River, 1 14.

Scribe prefers a bed of balsam boughs, 31.

Scribe and Esculapius follow John, 38.

Shot at a moose, 167.

Shelbyville, Tenn., 13.

Sighted moose, 2! 2.

Snow-storm, 228.

Son of Dr. Pokorney, 57.

Spence, our camp near, 105.

Sphynx Falls, departure from, 1 18.

Stay at Pickerel Lake, 70.

«9

290

INDEX.

Strucc, Mr., our first meeting, 97.
St. Jnmes' Cathedral, a magnificent struc-
ture, 61.
Storm, rain-, 221.
Storm, thunder, 73.
Sunday fishing and what followed, 34.
Sugar-Bush Lake, return to, 220.
Surprised wood-chopper, 244.

Ten-Mile Lake Hotel, 104.
The hunt ended, 281.
The old buck, manoeuvring of, 268.
The dogs are fairly yelling, 263.
The hoy's first deer-hunt, 253.
The boy killed his first deer, 255.
The author and his son, 250.
The ox-team and the old jumper, 242.
The wedding described, 88.
The grand moose- and deer-hunt, prepara-
tion for, 80.
The lean-to, night under, 208.
The village rendezvous, 65.
This tramp long to be remembered, 30.
Thunder-storm, 73.
Toronto, guides employed, 24.

Trysting-placc, beaver, 115.
Trailing moose, 172.

Unsavory sleeping-apartmenls, 41.
Unpleasant tramp, 229.

Village rendezvous, 65.
Villagers, deer-hunt with, 247.
Village of Burk's Falls, 283.

Watte's Creek, return of Governor and

Esculapius from, 46.
Watte's Creek started for by Governor

and Esculapius, 42.
Wedding, romantic, on an island in Lake

Rosseau, 86.
Wedding described, 88.
Wedding guests take their departure 94.
Wellington Rose, guide, 82.
What has happened ? 264.
Wilderness, unexplored, 12.
Wood-chopper surprised, 244.

Youthful driver, 122.

THE END.

f^ilt

r and

irernor

Lake

94.