^. -^^ '^!H' di Twr •iis■lgf»^^■■^^^^y^■v■^?y■■«!ywil^E.^|^ |^ ^ ^^^ TORONTO PUBMC wmmm»mimmm m,M. \mmmmmmmmmmmmt^ammmmmm central library history A Fortnio-ht in America. if-fH-Wi^-J* •.-.•u-,;w '■i^rf'i a ^i>.V'". A Fortnight in America. J^ok$ of a Vi^it B^ tpe Ma^op of Pl^mout^, :tA:-R. J- T- BOXsTIJ, To Canada and t^e: United State:;g, IN JUNE AND JULY, 1891. PRIVATELY PRINTED. W. BRENDON & SON, vIEORGE STREET, PLYMOUTH. 1891. "S*^ ■^ici' i^S* '■' m^\ m Si CONTENTS. Introductory PAGE 7 Plymouth to New York 13 In Canada ; Niagara 21 In the States ; Plymouth Rock 35 'T i??^'«* -*^'ik> m\\ s^ ^% > ■i i \ .1 i 1 ■ Ij^ ^mi >. R Foptni^5t '^^ HmePiea. INTRODUCTORY. -•«•- UCH more than an ordinary holiday was that which the Mayor of Plymouth (Mr. J. T. Bond) recently took. Originally undertaken as a needed respite from exacting duties, it was conceived in an educational spirit. Whilst by ocean travel and thorough change of scene he sought restored health and renewed vigour, he so arranged his tour as to enable him to enlarge his ideas and inform his mind, by some ac- quaintance with the municipal work of the leading cities of Canada and the United States, that he might be the more fitted to serve his native town as one of its T tl ! 8 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. Councillors. In taking his holiday the Mayor was accompanied by Mr. E. S. Lancaster, Chairman of the Stonehouse Local Board, Mr. W. 1. Lee, the pastor of the Exeter Street Mission I tail, Plymouth, and Mr. G. W. Eyre, three of his intimate friends. Mr. Lancaster, who from the same cause was forced to take a holiday, entered most thoroughly into the spirit of the scheme of the trip, from motives similar to those which actuated the Mayor. Mr. Bond was anxious to be better equipped for serving municipal Plymouth ; Mr. Lancaster's desire was to be in a position the better to promote the interests of Stonehouse. In America it was not easy for the visitors to explain, or for the visited to appreciate, the reason why the one was entitled to the good official- sounding title of Mayor, whilst the other had to be content with the commonplace appellation of Chairman of Local Board, although both were at the head of the local government of their respective towns. Both Americans and Canadians cut the Gordian knot by giving to both the older and better-sounding title, so that at all the receptions and introductions the one was introduced as Mayor Bond, and the other as Mayor Lancaster. It was a very agreeable solution, and had all the merit that belongs to brevity in titles. INTRODUCTORY. The trip in all respects exceeded expectations, and was in every way a gratifying success. First and fore- most, both the Mayor of Plymouth and the " Mayor of Stonehouse" returned witii t-onewed health and restored vigour. And they gained a fund of information and incentives to municipal progress that may well serve them a lifetime. Certainly the most pleasurable feature of the trip was the cordiality of the official reception both in Canada and the States, and the readiness with which the visitors' wants were often anticipated and always met. "The Mayor of Plymouth" was an " Open, Sesame!" everywhere. "The Mayor of Stonehouse" was not so well known across the Atlantic as his brother of the historic Devonshire port, the association with which was found to be cherished, honoured, and revered by all Americans, and especially in the New England States. At times little geographical lessons respecting Stonehouse were called for ; but under the aegis of the Mayor of Plymouth, his friends obtained the entrh to the President and other high officials of the States, and the hospitality of the great municipalities of Canada, and were relieved of the attentions of the Custoii House people. It was remarkable how much was crowded into the r->iiii ; ;5^ 10 ^ FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. fortnight which was spent on the American Continent. Only those who are honoured with a similar representa- tive capacity at home could ever hope to cover so extensive a tract, and see and learn so much, in so short a space of time. Visits to New York, Philadelphia. Boston, and Washington, afforded abundant oppor- tunity of gaining an impression of American life; whilst visits to Toronto, Montreal, and Quebec, gave equal opportunities of judging of the present conditions and forecasting the probable future of Canada ; and the inevitable trip to Niagara enabled the visitors to stand in awe in the presence of a natural scene, in whose grandeur both of these great countries can claim an equal share. Mr. Bond having on a previous American tour seen the glories of Boston and Philadelphia, left his friends to turn aside to visit historic ground, and at "Pilgrim Plymouth" enjoyed a supremely happy moment while standing on Plymouth Rock, and after- wards was escorted, an honoured guest, whilst he viewed all that is most revered in the neighbourhood for its association with the Pilgrim Fathers. Whilst the voyage out was made eventful by meeting with the O/y of Richmond steamer with an ignited cargo of cotton in its hold ; by a severe storm, in which INTRODUCTORY. II many of the seamen were severely injured ; by passing huge icebergs ; and by the endurance of a typical fog— the voyage home was a week's picnic on the ocean, with the added interest of a celebration of Independence Day. The one was a fitting introduction to, and the other was a pleasing ending of, a holiday at once most stimulating, pleasant, and profitable. -rAUi. PLYMOUTH TO NEW YORK. EAVING Plymouth on the evening of June 9th, the Mayor of Plymouth and his friends reached Liverpool the next morning. There they were met by Mr. Augustine Honey, formerly of Plymouth, who took them to the Exchange, and other large commercial institutions of the city, and introduced them to the Council, which then happened to be in session. The subject under discussion was the housing of the poor. None could have been more interesting to the Mayor of Plymouth, who last spring devoted several afternoons to making himself intimately ac- quainted with the conditions under which the poorer wage-earning classes of his native town live. The reso- lution before the Liverpool City Council was to pledge it to an immediate expenditure of ;{;50,ooo to demolish old, dilapidated, uninhabitable buildings, and to make a '■^yV 'M 14 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. clean sweep of certain "rookeries." And Mr. Bond had the gratification of hearing the supporter of the resolution advance arguments precisely similar to those which he himself used, with regard to the value of houses declared officially unfit for human habitation, when bringing the same subject before his own Council — the contention being, that the value of such property was merely the value of the site^ and of the buildings on it as old material. At five o'clock in the afternoon of the same day (June loth) the party embarked on board one of the floating palaces of the Inman line, the City of Paris, a steamer 585 feet long, and of 10,500 tons register. This steamer and her sister vessel, the O/jj/ 0/ New York, have the finest dining saloons of any ocean- going steamer. The Mersey Bar was crossed about ten o'clock at night. At half- past one on Thursday morning (June nth) Queenstown was reached, and in a few hours afterwards the City of Paris was clear of the Irish coast, and en route for New York. Friday (June 1 2th) was a very eventful and exciting day. Two large steamers were sighted close together, flying signals of distress. They proved to be the City of Richmond, of the Inman line, with the cotton in her VA, PLYMOUTH TO NEW YORK. 15 hold on fire ; and her convoy, the Servia, of the Cunard line. The City of Paris bore down upon them with all speed, the weather being fine, with a heavy rolling sea. A boat was lowered from the City of Paris, and in it her chief officer was rowed to the City of Richmond to investigate the accident. He was the chief officer of the City of Paris, who on the occasion of that vessel's memorable breakdown left in a rowing boat, and reaching Queenstown, 240 miles distant, took out tug-boats to bring her in. After a consultation, it was decided that the Servia should continue to stand by the City of Richmond, and that the City of Paris should resume her voyage to New York. This meeting of three immense steamers in mid-Atlantic under such circumstances made a deep impression on the mayoral party, as well as on all on board. The three vessels were at one time so close that they almost formed a huge triangle. Those on board the City of Paris could see the thick smoke pouring out of the hold of the City of Richmond, and noticed the hasty arrange- ments the passengers had made for sleeping on deck after the stifling smoke of the smouldering cotton had driven them out of their berths. As the City of Paris again started her passengers and crew raised hearty 1 i i6 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. "hurrahs" by way of encouragement to the unfortunates on board the City of Richmond, and the cheers were responded to in a way that left no doubt that their presence had given confidence and a material measure of elief. Sunday (June 15th) brought a deep-seated pleasure. As on all British-owned ocean-going boats, the day was observed by divine service, conducted by the captain in the saloon, to which the second-class passengers were invited. The prayer-book of the Church of England was used. One of the stewards accompanied the musical portions on a very fine organ, and the singing was joined in most heartily by the whole congregation. With singular appropriateness the hymn sung was, " O God, our help in ages past." This simple service in mid- Atlantic was deeply impressive, and left a pleasant memory, in striking contrast with the ex- perience on board the Hamburg-American steamer on the Mayor's return voyage, when there was nothing whatever to mark Sunday from the rest of the days of the week. As usual, the collection on board the City of Paris at the close of the service was in aid of the Sailors' Orphanages at Liverpool and New York. ^mmm "WT" PLYMOUTH TO NEW YORK. 17 During dinner on the Sunday there were signs of bad weather, and at night the steamer cut right through the course of a very severe storm. By ten o'clock all the passengers were compelled to leave the promenade deck, and tremendous seas were shipped. But what- ever else may be claimed for the City of Paris, there is no doubt she is first and foremost a magnificent sea boat. When New York was reached it became known that fifteen of the crew had been so severely injured during the storm, chiefly in consequence of being dashed by the seas against the head of the saloon, that they had to be conveyed to the hospital ashore. During the whole voyage thirty of the seamen, engineers, and firemen received hurt. Early in the morning (June i6th) the storm abated, and soon after- wards it was found that the steamer was in the track of icebergs. About eight o'clock one was sighted 200 feet high and about 1000 feet long. At noon another not quite so large was seen. That day the cold was almost Arctic. On the next (Tuesday, June 17th) the heat was nearly tropical, the steamer having run into a belt of fog. Thence to Sandy Hook the City of Paris was steaming through dense fog, and the later hours of that experience were of a B i8 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. most exciting character. For two days the captain was unable to take his bearings except by dead reckon- ing, and he groped his way in the fog by constant deep-sea soundings. At times the lead touched bottom at fifty-seven fathoms. Fire Island, usually the first point to be sighted, was obscured, and it was only on the fog clearing, when the steamer was within half a mile of Sandy Hook, that her exact position was* known. Great was the relief of the passengers, and loud were their praises of the skill and success of the navigation of Captain Watkins, R.N.R., the commodore of the Inman line. Off Sandy Hook a pilot was taken on board. In the fog the guns of many pilot boats had been heard, but it was deemed unsafe to try to pick up a pilot under the circumstances. New York bar was crossed next morning (June i8th), and at half-past nine the Mayor and his party reached the Grand Union Hotel. During the day a drive in Central Park was enjoyed, the many fine buildings of the city were seen, and the Elevated Railway — as ugly as it is convenient — was much patronised. Many houses along the route were found to be empty, in consequence of the proximity of this railway. The Broadway Tram Line is an ever-present and PLYMOUTH TO NEW YORK. 19 forbidding monument to the past corruption of the government of the city, the members of which sold the charter for its construction, and pocketed the bribe. Brooklyn Bridge was, of course, crossed. The finest suspension bridge in the world, it is probably the last, as the success of the Forth Bridge has demonstrated the superiority of the cantilever principle. In the evening, at the Mayor's suggestion, the members of his party followed the bent of their own inclinations, and while some visited the fine buildings of the Y.M.C.A., others enjoyed a performance of the opera of " Apollo " at one of the theatres. The next day (June 19th) was also devoted to sight-seeing in New York and Brooklyn. The streets were in a deplorable condition generally. The celebrated Broadway was a revelation and a dis- appointment. Running the whole length (eleven miles) of the island of Manhattan, on which the city of New York is built, it impressed the visitors as one of the finest thoroughfares in the world, but closer acquaintance showed that the condition of the paving in many parts was highly discreditable. Between huge paving blocks there were holes and gullies, big enough, one of the Mayor's party emphatically averred, for him to He down in. This description applied especially to the business B 2 i^ ''mi 20 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. portions of the thoroughfare. Driving through it is almost out of the question : it was regarded as impossible to trot a horse along the street without both horse and rider coming to grief. A series of tramways occupy much of the road, and in such a sorry condition are they that it was no unusual thing to see a portion of the rails tilt up as the cars were passing. New York is confessedly the worst governed city in the States, and the condition of Broadway is a standing proof of it. It showed the viciousness of the introduction of extreme party politics in municipal afifairs, and for the Mayor of Plymouth, no less than for the "Mayor of Stonehouse," the moral was an obvious one, and they could flatter themselves that although they saw things which were better ordered in America than at home, party-political "rings" in local government were not among them. It had its lesson, however, in showing what especially to avoid. IN CANADA; NIAGARA. GRATIFYING RECEPTIONS. FTER spending two interesting days in New York, the Mayor and his party left for Niagara. Securing berths on a Wagner sleeping car, they enjoyed that luxurious night-travelling accommodation which is quite a feature of the American railways. On a continent of great distances the conveniences thus afforded are indis- pensable. In England there is little that approaches it, simply because it is not necessary. The cars are most completely constructed and beautifully appointed, and the traveller sleeps as comfortably in them as in his own room at home. Another feature of railway arrange- ments that struck those of the party who were then visiting the States for the first time was, that on the locomotives large bells, with what the staunch Church- man called "a Cathedral-tone," were used, instead of •^ 23 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. I? M!5 ¥m ill M^ I I shrill discordant whistles, to give warning of approach at crossings, signal boxes, and stations. This peculiarity is very pronounced at a large railway terminus. A stranger might well be pardoned for thinking that he was ncaring a town of churches just before a service. The line on which the party travelled was the New York Central, the great four-track route controlled by the Vanderbilts. It is well maintained, and for 140 miles runs along the banks of the beautiful Hudson River. Niagara was reached at half-past eight on the Satur- day morning, and after a substantial breakfast at the hotel the party hired a carriage, and visited every point of interest at the world-famed Falls, including the rapids, and the whirlpool rapids in which the foolhardy Captain Webb lost his life. The day was a brilliant one, and the unlimited wealth of natural grandeur left a lasting impression. In the presence of the reality it was felt that the whole American vocabulary of admiration had been simply wasted in trying to suggest even Niagara. The Americans are immense at advertising, but they really cannot puff Niagara. The Mayor and his friends heartily applauded that common love of great Nature which prompted the two nations to secure for many miles the land on both sides of the river and falls, and IN CANADA, 23 to dedicate it for all time as national parks, which it was pleasant to sec are kept with threat care. Mr. Bond is not, of course, the first mayor of Plymouth whose heart has been stirred by the si^jht oi Niagara. The late Mr. Alfred Rookcr stood once in the presence of the mighty waterfall, and on returning he tried to help some of his fellow townsmen to realise its size by asking them to imagine water falling from about the height of the Royal Albert Bridge, and for a distance in a horse-shoe form, from the Devon side of that bridge to about the railway viaduct just beyond Saltash. Mr. Bond agrees that this was a very happy suggestion of the extent and form of the F'alls. The same evening the party took the car for Port Dalhousie, and crossing Lake Ontario reached the Queen Hotel, Toronto, at ten o'clock, and were sur- prised to find so large a city so quiet on a Saturday night. Inquiry elicited the fact that all licensed houses, hotel bars, and places of amusement are closed, and all tramcars prohibited from running, between seven o'clock on Saturday evening and Monday morning. Even guests at the hotels can only be served, even with lemonade, in their own rooms. It was found that the law was practically made by the working classes (manhood suffrage being enjoyed), and that it was i 24 A FORTNIGHT TN AMERICA. ..^^ \ ...i: i cheerfully acquiesced in and rigidly enforced. Not a single case of drunkenness was seen, nor a woman entering a public bar. Toronto, known as a city of churches, contains a very large number of magnificent buildings representative of the various denominations. On the Sunday, services at several of these churches were attended by members of the party, according to their several inclinations. One member was introduced to the choir of Holy Trinity Episcopal Church by an uncle of the Mayor, and after being furnished with cassock and surplice, was accommodated with a seat in the choir stalls. The Mayor himself in the morning attended the service at the chief Congregational Church, in Bond Street, where he had the pleasure of hearing Dr. Wyld, the most popular preacher in Toronto, and of being a witness of a remar!:able demonstration of the loyalty of the Canadians, who claim to be more loyal than their brethren at home. The preacher's passing reference to the Queen as a mother so com- mended itself to the audience, that they gave expression to their approval by stamping of feet and clapping of hands ; and it was ascertained that it was quite usual for the congregation to applaud the preacher. The subject of the evening's discourse was the baccarat scandal, which was discussed as freely in the States !b«!S(!.8f»l«': IN CANADA. 25 and in Canada as at home, and many were the affec- tionate expressions used towards the Queen. Next morning the sermon was reported in one newspaper under the heading "Dr. Wyld scalps the Prince of Wales," and it was illustrated by a drawing of the preacher holding the Prince's scalp in his hand. Two members of the party in the evening attended the Baptist Negro Church, and heard a young West Indian deliver a very beautiful, simple, and telling address to a considerable congregation. Preacher, organist, and choir were all persons of colour, and the whole service was most interesting. As a rule congregational singing is not practised, as the Mayor and his friends were accustomed to hear it at home. In the greater number of churches, both in the States and Canada, a quartette of professional singers are engaged, and they most beautifully render the musical part of the service. This feature was especially noticeable at the largest Episcopal Church in the States — Holy Trinity, Boston, and at the Brooklyn Church of Dr. John Halls, the millionaire preacher, whose stipend is said to amount to fifty thousand dollars a year. On the Monday the Mayor, accompanied by the other members of the party, by request and appoint- 26 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. fe ment, paid an official visit to the Mayor of Toronto (Mr. F. Clarke), at the State Hall. The interview was of the most pleasant and cordial character. The Mayor of the city at once evinced his desire to show Canadian hospitality by at once claiming the party for the whole of their stay in Toronto as his guests, and assuring them that it world be his pleasure to show them all the institutions in which they felt an interest. The City Council, it appeared, votes every year 4000 dollars to a Reception Con mittee, for the purpose of entertaining distinguished visitors ; and the Mayor of Plymouth and his friends being at once placed in that category, carriages-and-pairs were forthwith put at their disposal, and the able and courteous chiefs of the various departments of the city government were at their service. First the Fire Brigade was visited, under the guidance of its chief, Mr. Ardagh. The arrange- ments for extinguishing fires are a long way ahead of those in the mother country, and their per- fection was most adequately demonstrated to the visitors. The longest time allowed for the largest escape to be sent on its way galloping through the streets is fifteen seconds from the sound of the alarm. Electricity plays a most important part in expediting IN CANADA. 27 the movements. It opens the stable doors and releases the horses from their stalls. The horses (remarkably well trained, and entering into the spirit of the occasion as smartly as the men) at once take their places in front of the engine, the suspended harness falls on their backs, the driver, seizing the reins, springs into his seat, and the engine is galloping out of the station. This practice, carried out without a hitch, was warmly applauded. The members of the brigade are young, clean, and smart, and well paid. They live on the premises, and the Insurance Companies furnish parlours in which Sunday services are held. On the tables were noticed Bibles, and on the walls illuminated texts. Every American city, large and small, was found equipped with a perfect fire brigade system. The need of it is much more urgent than in the home country, in consequence of the large number of wooden houses still existing. At the fire stations staircases prove much too tardy a mode of descent. In each floor there is a hole, in the centre of which a brass column, about three inches in diameter, is fixed from roof to floor ; and when the alarm is sounded, the men spring from bed or table, and clinging to the rod with arms and legs, descend to the floor with lightning-like rapidity. The Mayor's party, at 28 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. m m m k-i the request of the chief of the fire brigade, tried this novel mode of descent, and caused great fun, for they proved themselves anything but proficient performers. At Mr, Bond's desire, he being interested in the water question at home, the party was driven to the reservoirs, about three miles out of the city; and it was learned that Toronto, like many other American cities, has its water question. These reservoirs hold sufficient for a three weeks' supply. The water, derived from Lake Ontario, is pumped into reservoirs 300 feet above the level of the lake, and thence flows into the city by gravitation. By the particular request of the Mayor of Toronto, who had convened a meeting of the City Council, Mr. Bond and his friends attended the meeting. As they entered the Mayor and Aldermen rose and gave hearty rounds of applause, and by vote they were accommo- dated with seats on the floor of the Chamber. Before leaving, the Mayor, at the request of the Council (which consists of the Mayor and thirty-six Aldermen, elected for three years) invited the Mayor of Plymouth and the Chairman of the Stonehouse Local Board to address the assembly, the one being introduced as Mayor Bond, and the other as Mayor Lancaster. The speeches partook, of course, of a complimentary character, the IN CANADA. 29 hearty and thoughtful hospitality of Canada being gratefully acknowledged. The meeting was fully reported in the morning papers, and as a result there were many callers at the hotel. They included old Plymothians and others who had associations with the historic borough and the district. The calls, as far as possible, were returned. Tuesday was devoted to an inspection of the educa- tional institutions of the city, which proved most instructive and interesting. The party was accompanied by Mr. Hughes, chief of the department, and Mr. Lee, senior Trustee of Education, a position co/responding with that of Chairman of School Board in England. Visits were paid to many of the public schools, all of which, from the Kindergarten to the University, are absolutely free. No tests are imposed, except those of an educational character for admission to the higher grade schools. And, although free, education is not compulsory. Under the old regime it was ; but it is now found that the desire of the parents to have their children educated is so strong as to make compulsion unnecessary, and the percentage of average attendance is higher under the new system than it was under the old. A striking feature is the absence of all class distinctions. At one school were pointed out the 30 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. children of a judge sitting side by side with those of a carpenter; while at another the daughter of a bishop had as her school companion the daughter of an artisan. Other pleasing features were the appropriation of a seat and desk for each scholar, and the great importance that is attached to the Kindergarten principle; and a striking fact was that with the exception of the head teachers the whole of the teaching staff were females. So perfect is the system that although the exteriors of the schools differ, the interior arrangements are the exact counterparts of each other. They are all four- roomed buildings, or the multiple of four. In a small town the school is started with the four departments, and whenever it is enlarged another four are added. This is the perfection of the class-room system. The ventilation and the sanitary arrangements are carried out with surprising completeness ; the air in the rooms is repeatedly changed, and it is absolutely impossible for bad smells to enter the schools. And these desiderata seemed to be obtained at small cost. The Mayor of Toronto promised to forward to the Mayor of Plymouth full details and descriptions of other arrangements, remarking that the inhabitants most cheerfully con- tributed to the maintenance of the educational establishments and the fire brigades. IN CANADA. 31 From the Chief of Police particulars of his depart- ment were received, and it seemed very complete. At the stations the powers of electricity were laid under contribution in a very remarkable way, one result being that the sight of a constable walking a prisoner through the streets was rarely seen. At certain points in the city are police telephone call boxes. Thither the prisoner is taken, and he awaits a horse ambulance, which is got ready with a rapidity equal to that seen at the Fire Brigade stations, and in the ambulance the prisoner is conveyed to the Central Police Station. The same arrangements are also available in cases of accidents, the Hospital being then, of course, the destination of the ambulance. To Mr. Edgar Wills, J.P., a nephew of Alderman Wills, J. P., of Plymouth, the party were indebted for another very interesting incident in the Canadian portion of their trip. Mr. Wills introduced them to the President of the Board of Trade and to many of the leading business men of the city, a very hearty reception being given in all cases. At Mr. Wills'd invitation, and in company with the Mayor of Toronto, the party partook of luncheon at the splendid buffet of the Board of Trade, an institution somewhat resembling the Chambers of Commerce in England. It occupies 33 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. palatial premises, and is doing great things for the commercial development of the Dominion, The visitors were especially pleased at being indebted to the courtesy and consideration of a native of Plymouth, for a very interesting feature of their visit. Leaving Toronto with deep regret that they had not been able to devote more time to so beautiful a city, the Mayor of Plymouth and his friends on the Tuesday evening travelled by sleeping car over the Grand Trunk Railway to Kingston, and at five o'clock next morning embarked on board the splendid river boat Spariaji, and sailed down the noble St. Lawrence, passing through the Thousand Islands and the Lachine and other rapids, and under the very fine bridges which carry the Canadian Pacific and the Grand Trunk lines across the river, including the Victoria, the finest tubular bridge in the world, which is two miles long, and the work of the English engineer, George Stephenson. Montreal was reached about six o'clock in the evening, and the voyage was continued by the night boat, affording excellent accommodation. The party arrived at Quebec about seven o'clock on Thursday morning, and proceeded "to do" the "lions" of the city. The view of Quebec was grand in the extreme, and the Heights of Abraham, on which Wolfe, the British IN CANADA. 33 general, defeated General Montcalm, of the United States, were, of course, visited with a sense of patriotic pride. That sense, however, did not prevent the Mayor and his friends from sympathising with an incident which occurred during their very brief stay, showing that the enmity engendered by an old conflict had completely died out. In a later war between the United States and England, General Montgomery unsuccessfully attacked Quebec. Among the troops engaged in the conflict was a regiment which has ever since been known as the Montgomery Guards, and has been located at Boston, and they coming up at the invitation of Quebec were entertained right royally. Very striking was the contrast between Upper and Lower Canada, as typified by Toronto and Quebec. The one was English and Protestant ; the other was French and Roman Catholic. Leaving Quebec at noon, the party returned by car to Montreal, and were there two days, staying at Windsor Hotel, said to be the largest and finest hostelry on the Continent. It is at least three times the size of the Metropole, London, and is surrounded by beautiful squares. In Montreal, as at Quebec, the more wealthy people close their houses during the winter, and take up quarters in hotels, which have special provisions against the cold, and enable ftiMriiwT^^ ■ '>i:t»?-iR< ?■«?:«»«*<.•«.;• 34 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. rocial enjoyments to be carried out on a large scale. Montreal is a very fine city, and, in common with other Canadian towns, has a very large number of open spaces. The streets too are lined with trees, which during the Mayor's visit were in full leaf, and affording most agree- able shade. By ascending Mount Royal, a magnificent view was obtained ; the city below being almost hid with foliage. It has many very fine and costly places of worship, including the Cathedral of St. Peter's, which is a replica, on a smaller scale, of St. Peter's at Rome. Already it has been twenty-five years building, and is not yet completed. The Church of Notre Dame, although its exterior has no architectural interest, has a richly-ornamented interior, and is of immense size. It can comfortably seat twelve thousand persons, and at festivals, by using additional chairs, another three thousand can be accommodated. A peculiar feature is that the building is lit from the roof by a series of magnificent rose windows. Montreal, too, is the head-quarters of the Canadian Pacific and Grand Trunk, the two great rival railway systems from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Whilst in the city a reporter, from one of the Montreal papers, called at the hotel very early in the morning to interview the Mayor, but his efforts proved fruitless. IN THE STATES; PLYMOUTH ROCK. jN Friday evening the Mayor and party left Montreal by the night train for Boston, ^ 360 miles distant, and reached there at '^^^¥^~ eight o'clock next morning. Bunker's Hill, 'f^ I and the chapel which is still pointed out as that in which the British troops stabled their horses during the War of Independence, made it quite historic ground. At "the hub of the universe" the Mayor was met by Mr. Frank May, late of Plymouth, a well-known vocalist, who is rapidly making his way to the front rank of his profession. A pleasant day was spent in visiting the many fine buildings of the city, including the State Hall and the old State House, in which many an important council was held during the War of Independence. Back Bay, an aristocratic suburb of the city, proved of interest from the fact that it is built on made land, all the houses being erected on piles. Some of the avenues, especially the Commonwealth, are of magniiicent proportions. The monuments proved very fine and particularly interesting c 2 ISRSISSSSSli N.ti.'-??f';*?WipM**-^.-«' 36 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. At Boston the party separated for a time. The Mayor spent Sunday with Mr. Frank May, and, attend- ing Trinity Church, heard the Rev. PhiUips Brooks, who is ranked amongst the finest preachers in the world. He was selected by the Queen to preach before her during the celebration of her jubilee. On the Monday, accompanied by Mr. May, the Mayor pro- ceeded to Pilgrim Plymouth, travelling by the Old Colony Railroad. The names of the towns passed were very suggestive of home, and about five miles before Plymouth a railway station bore the familiar name of Plympton. It was with no ordinary feeling that Mr. Bond found himself standing on the very rock, famous throughout the world as the stepping-stone upon which the Pilgrim Fathers landed on December 21st, 1620, and when out of gratitude for Devonshire sympathy, hospitality, and help, they named the place Plymouth. Probably he is the first Mayor of Plymouth who, during his year of office, ever stood on Plymouth Rock, and it was in accordance with " the eternal fitness of things " that he was in thorough sympathy with the spirit which prompted Mrs. Hemans to write— Ay, call it holy ground. The soil where first they trod ! They have left unstained what there they found, Freedom to worship God. IN THE STATES. 37 The rock, on which "1620" has been deeply cut, occupies the same position as w 1 the Mayflower's boat first grazed its side. It has bc^ raised somewhat to prevent its being hidden by the hunig-in of Pilgrim Wharf, and is now covered by a stately canopy of granite. An elegant and beautifully illustrated work, Glimpses of Pilgrim Ply mouthy enabled the Mayor to read in view of it De Tocqueville's elegant passage : "This rock has become an object of veneration in the United States ; I have seen bits of it preserved in several towns of the Union. Does not this sufficiently show that all human power and greatness is in the soul of man } Here is a stone which the foot of out- casts pressed for an instant, and this stone has become famous ; it is treasured by a great nation ; its very dust is shared as a relic. And vhat has become of the gate- ways of a thousand palaces "i Who cares for them } " All fhat is of interest at Pilgrim Plymouth was reverently sought for by the Mayor. The United States were almost as dilatory in erecting a permanent memorial to the "forefathers," as was England in giving public expression of its gratitude to the heroes who defeated the Spanish Armada; for it was not until 1889 that at Plymouth, in New England, they dedicated a monument *;yK«5iWWi^S^.^W-»*'R*1OTW>^.?ft'^IS?^i5^iR^**^^^^ :! ' I 38 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. to the Pilgrim Fathers. But when they did undertake the work they resolved to do it well and appropriately. On a main pedestal, 45 feet high, stands in stately serenity anvi dignity the colossal figure of Faith, the largest and finest piece of granite statuary in the world. It is 36 feet high, weighs 200 tons, and is 216 times life size. Upon four buttresses are seated figures emble- matical of the principles upon which the Pilgrims founded their Commonwealth — Morality, Education, Law, and Freedom — each wrought from a solid block of granite. Beneath these figures on the faces of the buttresses are alto-relievos in marble, representing scenes from Pilgrim history — the departure from Delft Haven ; the signing of the social compact in the cabin of the Mayflower; the landing at Plymouth ; and the treaty with Massoasoit. On the faces of the main pedestal are large panels for records. That in front contains the following : — " National Monument to the Forefathers. Erected by a grateful people in remem- brance of their labours, sacrifices, and sufferings, for the cause of Civil and Religious Liberty." The right and left panels contain the names of those who came over in the Mayflower. Burial Hill, the resting-place of Pilgrims and their IN THE STATES. 39 descendants, and containing the grave-stone of John Howland, who died in 1672, and the Bradford monu- ment; Clark Island, the scene of the first Christian Sabbath kept in New England ; Watson Hill, famous as the scene of the first meeting with the Indian chief, Massoasoit, where hostages were exchanged between him and the Pilgrims, as a oreliminary step to the treaty of peace which followed ; Pilgrim Hall, built by the Pilgrim Society, containing relics of the Pilgrims and early colonial times, a gallery of pictures of rare value and interest, and a library relating to New England history ; and the County Court House, pre- serving the earlie t records of Plymouth Colony, in the handwriting of Bradford, Brewster, Standish, and others of the heroic band — these among other objects claimed the Mayor's attention during his all-too-short stay. At the Pilgrim Hall an unexpected pleasure awaited him. The librarian referred to correspondence he had had with Mr. R. N. Worth, f.g.s , of Plymouth, who had forwarded a copy of the later edition of his History of Plymouth, together with photographs of the historic borough and its charming surroundings, the sight of which seemed to quite bridge the ocean for the Mayor, and bring him very near the Hoe, Plymouth Sound I :«MWW W---':'C-'T>KW. ;¥ '?>■TW^ SK-*"!?;. . w% 40 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. W ■n \ i (whence the Pilgrim Fathers set sail on their voyage so fruitful of events), and Mount Edgcumbe Park. In view of the approaching visit to Plymouth of the American delegates sent to the International Congre- gational Congress in London, the presence of the Mayor in Pilgrim Plymouth was regarded as extremely apropos, and when his presence became known he was received with all honour and courtesy. Meanwhile the " Mayor of Stonehouse " and other members of the party had proceeded to Philadelphia, and visited its many fine architectural buildings, public and commercial— including the magnificent State Hall of white marble, the tower of which, when completed, will be the highest tower in the world forming part of a building; and Independence Hall, where the Declaration was drawn and signed. The Mayor, who had included Philadelphia and Boston in a former American tour, rejoined his friends at the capital of the United States. The visit to Washington was made as the result of a most pressing invitation conveyed on board the City of Paris by Mr. D. J. Murphy, a gentleman of culture, who proved to be a very interest- ing companion ; and with typical American hospitality, he entertained his new-made English friends during the TN THE STATES. 41 whole of their stay in the capital. Having been chief clerk in the Pension Bureau under President Cleveland, he was able to obtain the eutr/e to all the Government departments. In turn the Mayor and his friends were introduced to General Grant, the Secretary for War ; to General Rosecrano, Secretary of the Treasury, whose signature appears on "greenbacks" and all the United States paper money, and to other officials ; and at length by special appointment, in the magnificent east reception-room of the White House, to President Harrison, who received the party with extreme cordiality as Englishmen on travel. Washington — which paradoxically enough, although the capital of the United States, is not in the United States, but in the district of Columbia, and is adminis- tered by a Board of Commissioners appointed direct by Congress — is laid out on a most magnificent scale, its avenues and thoroughfares being of immense pro- portions. The engineer who laid out the city was expelled with disgrace from his office, in consequence of what were then regarded as his wild and extravagant ideas ; but he had a splendid revenge. Years after- wards, by the people's invitation, he returned to the city, and was received with every demonstration of 42 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. \i gratitude and esteem ; and his foresight in dealing with the national capital was thereby completely justified. Chief among the fine buildings of the city is the Capitol, a classic design beautifully rendered in white marble. A feature of the city that struck the party most forcibly was the entire absence of restrictions in passing to and from all parts. Unfortunately the House of Congress was not in session, but the Mayor was able to inform his friends that when he was formerly at Washington, he found that anyone was free to enter either the Senate or the House of Representatives, without the slightest difficulty. Many inquiries were, of course, made respecting the administration, and it was learned that the vote on the Pension Account for the year just expired amounted to 150 million dollars, a sum far in excess of the total cost of the standing army of Germany. It was very clear that this question of pensions is becoming a serious and alarming one. In travelling to and returning from Washington the party used the Royal Blue Line, worked by the Balti- more and Ohio Railroad Company, and an American friend informed them that it is the only thing in America to which the prefix " Royal " is attached. In IN THE STATES. 43 crossing the river Chesapeake at Baltimore, where it is nearly two miles wide, the whole train was conveyed by a huge steam ferry, constructed to receive three short trains abreast. In crossing at night the electric search light was used all the way. Reaching New York at midnight on Wednesday, the party embarked on board the Hamburgh-American steamship Normannia at two o'clock, and left on the return voyage half an hour later. Berths on board the Teutonic^ which sailed the previous day, could not be secured, and the Normannia was crowded. From New York to Southampton was one long picnic on the ocean. The sea was as calm as a lake all the way. On Saturday, July 4th, Independence Day was observed with much spirit by the Americans on board. Many of the passen- gers were aroused early in the morning by the singing of one of Luther's hymns ; at eleven o'clock there was a procession of Americans around the promenade deck, and the ship's band played national airs nearly all day. At dinner an American gentleman in felicitous terms proposed "The day we celebrate," and the sentiment was warmly responded to by General Bristowe, at one time an unsuccessful candidate for the Presidency of the United States. In conclusion, he proposed "The . .t. i.v,^ ■,< .-^ t.-. :i':*^.Vi<*'WW'"'>WWKS!PI^^!T'«''*»*^^ sr?»ri^««Ms«in(it!.i m 44 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. i 1 .iS f t r^' w- i s i 1 il German Emperor, under whose flag we ??.:\." Although the "Britishers" on board could not enter into the enthusiasm of the occasion, they viewed the ceremonies with a curiosity that was by no means unsympathetic, and they did not grudge their cousins the feelings of pride with which they regard their great country. Some Englishmen, who did not know that the tune of " Hail, Columbia" is the same as that of "God save the Queen," made the pardonable mistake of supposing that the air was played out of compliment to the presence of Englishmen on board, and they doffed their hats in recognition. The Eddystone was sighted at half- past seven on Thursday morning, and the Mayor and his friends looked with longing eyes Plymouth-wards, but they were carried past the port, and in their own persons sufifered the inconvenience, expense, and delay of South- ampton being preferred to Plymouth, as the English port of call for this line of steamers. If the Normannia had put into Plymouth the party would have arrived home thirteen hours before they actually did, although they travelled by the first train on landing; and passen- gers and mails would have been in London at least three hours before they could possibly have reached m THE STATES. 45 the metropolis from Southampton. For passengers and mails bound to such trading and commercial centres as Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds, Edinburgh, and Glasgow, the saving of time would have been much greater. Whilst at Southampton one of the party had a conversation with an official, who said that the only difficulty in selecting Plymouth was that the Great Western Railway Company will make no substantial concessions to induce them to do so. The steamer company engage to carry first-class saloon passengers from the port of call to London by railway free, and whereas they are carried for lis. from Southampton by the South Western, it is stated that the Great Western would charge 33s. from Plymouth — a very appreciable difference when the passengers are numbered by thousands during the season. Probably, one result of the Mayor's experience in this matter will be that the question will be brought before the Corporation, with a view to its joining the Chamber of Commerce and the Mercantile Association in advancing the claims of Plymouth. Arrived at Southampton, the Mayor soon heard a representative of the Western Morning News making diligent enquiries for him, and when his official position 46 A FORTNIGHT IN AMERICA. became known he was the cynosure of the eyes of all the American passengers, who up to that time were not aware that the head of the borough so closely associated with the history of their continent was on board. His Worship and party were glad to receive copies of the Western Morning Neivs issued during their month's absence, and their perusal made short indeed the railway journey from Southampton home. Valuable and suggestive were the impressions gained during the visit. As to street locomotion, the party unhesitatingly gave preference to the cable-car over the electric systems ; and one of the gentlemen was more than ever led to regret that when the new tram- ways for Plymouth were projected, the offer of Mr. HalHday, of San Francisco, to introduce the cable cars, was not accepted. In New York and Boston particu- larly the Mayor was struck with the big American boarding-house system. Land is so dear that buildings have to be carried to an enormous height, and the experience of small cottage residences is utterly unknown in such cities. Home life, with all its softening, refining, and elevating influences, as it is enjoyed in England, is hardly practicable. Fathers, mothers, and children share one common hall, where the meals are served for them, H IN THE STATES. M so that the girls learn no cooking, and very few of the other domestic arts. Among many of the thoughtful Americans the viciousness of this system is constantly the subject of discussion. The absence of gardens from houses was very marked. Even Vanderbilt, the millionaire, could secure none for his New York house. But so far as the great mass of the people are concerned, the absence of gardens adjoining the houses is fully compensated for by the number and extent of the open spaces. Whilst Toronto was found absolutely free from slums, at Montreal signs of poverty were abundant. In some cities the absence of all fireplaces was noted, and it was found that the houses are heated by steam from depots in various parts of the city. New York is practically smokeless ; and its atmosphere, always pure and clear, presented a great contrast to that of the metropolis and other large towns at home. Another fact that arrested attention was that the leading churches in the States (including De Witt Talmage's) are closed for the summer season, the well-to-do class having betaken themselves to Europe, or to the watering-places on the North Atlantic sea-board. With much satisfaction it was learned from the merchant princes of Toronto that if the McKinley % ^K-^'^mi>»^-