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T II K A

SIIKWIIfO THK COASTS SKAHI
|{A(

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o(° (hr Kratiklin Kxpedit ion wer

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WalbV » Son::. I.ith

THE

ARCTIC REGIONS,

AKD

|0lar §isc0bm^s

DURING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY:

WITH TEX

DISCOVERIES MADE BY CAPTAIN McCLINTOCK

AS TO THE FATE OF THE FBANKLIN

EXPEDITION.

P. L. SIMMONDS, F.R.G.S.

LONDON:
ROUTLEDGE, WARNE, AND ROUTLEDGE,

2, FABBINGDON STREET.

NEW YORE: 66, WALEBR STREET.

1860.

\1iiS'^UC

exec's

Loirsoir

SATZLIt Alts SSWiiBDa, rBIlTXlB8« OHHrSOS-SIMlft
COTINX OABSUTt

PEEFACE

TO THE 2;iNTH EDITION.

Of the many gallant exploits and daring adventures by
land and by sea, which have added to the reputation and
noble deeds of Englishmen, there is none of which wo have
greater reason to be proud than those perilous explorations
m the Arctic Regions, which will ever render the nine-
teenth century a marked era in the history of Nations.

Dangers and hardships seem rather to attract than to
appal the adventurous Englishman, and private and public
explorations have followed each other in such quick
succession, during the past ten years, that it has oeen
somewhat difficult to keep pace with the record of them.
Every succeeding voyager and traveller seems to have
striven to outdo his predecessors in acquiring fame,
and in the boldness and daring with which he has pro-
secuted his researches. If we have had little opportunity for
the display of heroism in the competitive war struggle on
the ocean of late years, our naval officers have at least
sought and gained reputation in the icy fields of the Arctic
[Regions, in the extended search for our lost countrymen
imder Sir John Franklin. The Chart of the Polar Regions
will ever be a striking memorial of what can be done by
brave hearts and willing hands. The highly wrought
pictures of fiction fade before the simple and stern truths
of reality, and the narratives of Arctic Discovery have an
exciting interest and thrilling pathos, which will ever
render them deeply attractive to both old and young in
all ages. Even when the melancholy personal interest which
is now felt by those who mourn for relatives and friends
lost in Arctic voyages shall have subsided, the stirring
history recorded m uiese pages will have an interest for
future generations when all who have taken part in them
shall have passed away.

The love of adventure is inherent in the breast of the
Englishman, and shows itself in a hundred varied shapes*
but in none more prominently than in the desire to ex-
plore unknown countries and distant regions. Maritime
discovery has been the peculiar field of Sritish enterprise
and British glory, and in no quarter has it found a more

PEIFACE TO THE NINTH EDITION.

extended field of operation tban in the channels around
the North Pole. To restrain this energy and spirit of
adventure within prudent limki i» impossible. It will
find scope for hazard in some quarter, whether it be in
ascending Mont Blanc, penetrating the unknown rivers of
Africa, Asia, or America, or exploring the interior of
Australia. There are some restless spirits that shine out
brightest in danger and daring, and the result of much of
this research in distant quarters has certainly been bene-
ficial. Many men have attained to distinguished eminence
by their courage, perseverance, and enterprise in accom-
plishing journeys and voyages of great peril, and attended
with immense difficulties. None can read the accounts of
the various journeys and vcnrages by land and sea to
determine the question of a North West Passage, and the
fate of the expedition under Sir John Frankhn, without
being impressed with admiration for the spirit of heroism
which sustained the explorers through so many perils
and privations.

In the following pages I have sought merely to furnish
a simple digest of the different voyages and travels in the
Arctic Regions, ending with that nnal but satisfactory ex-
pedition of Capt. M'Clintock, which informed us of the
late of Sir John Franklin and his ships, an inquiry that
had previously baffled all investigation.

That this little work has reached a ninth edition, and
met with so large and extended a sale, is to be attributed
more to the general, nay universal, interest which has been
felt on the subject itself, than to any credit I can assume
for the narrative. Long, however, may the story of
Arctic discovery be read and pondered over, whether at
the fireside of our quiet English homes, at the mess
table of our sailors and soldiers, in the shepherd's hut of
Australia, or in the log cabin of America j wherever it
may be that England's sons read over the detailed record
of those bpld deeds and adventurous discoverers, they will
participate in the noble spirit of those who have lived and
died in their country's service, and have just reason to
be proud that they too are Englishmen, and participators
in the glory, honour, and renown which have been thus
achievea by many through great peril and suffering for
the " land that bears a world-wide name."

P. L. SiMMONDS.

8, Winchester Street, Pimlico.
November 2i, 1853.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Introductory Remarks ....... 1 ... . 1

Little known of the Arctic Ke^ona.— Notice of Captain Phipps'
▼oyage. — Parry's and Franklin's opinions on a North-west
passage. — Abstract of Sir John Barrow's works on Arctic
Discovery. — ^England's neglect of her nautical heroes.

Captain John Koss*s voyage in the ItdbeUa and AltMnnder
to Hudson's Bay in 1818 11

Names of officers and men.— Ships visited by the natives of
Greenland. — Abundance of birds on this coast. — Gale of wind.
—Red snow. — Lancaster Sound.'^The fabulous Croker moun-
tains. — Agnes monument.— Large bear shot.- Setum home.

Voyage of Buohan and Franklin in the Dorothea and Trent
to Spitzbergen, Sec, 1818 17

Names of officers and complement, &c. — FanciM appearance of
icebergs. — Ships arrive at Spitzbergen. — ^Anchor in Magdalene
bay. — Hanging icebergs.— Immense flocks of birds. — Danger-
ous ascent of Botge H^U.— Attack of walruses.- Surprised by
vnlooked-for visitors. — ^Devout feeling of recluses.- Expedition
puts to sea again. — Party lose themselves on the ice. — Ships
damaged by pressure of the floes.— Dangerous position of the
ships. — They take refbge in the main pack of icebergs.—
Yessels put into Fair Haven to stop leaks and refit.— Betum
home.

Franklin's First Land Expedition, 1819-21 ••••.. 31

Party leave England in the Prince tf TFoItf.— Beach Hudson's
Bay factory by the end of August.— Proceed by the rivers and
lakes to Cumberland House. — ^Arrive at Fort Chipewyan after
a winter journey of 857 miles. — Engage voyageurs and guides.
—Make the acquaintance of Akaitcho.the Indian chief.— Push
on for Fort Enterprise, which is made their winter residence
after a voyage of 563 miles.— Exploring excursions carried
on during the winter.—" Qreen Stockings," the Indian beauty.
—Stores and Esquimaux intarpreters anivc^-Seveiity of thA

, I

▼i CONTENTS.

PAGE

winter. — SufTeringof the Indians. — Party set out for the Polar
Sea. — Examine the coast westward to Point Tumagain. —
Dreadful hardships and sufferings endured on their return
journey from famine and fatigue. — Death of several of the
party. — Mr. Hood is murdered by Michel the Iroquois, who
for their mutual safety is Idlled. by Dr. Richardson. — Hunger
and famine endured by the party. — Their ultimate relief.

Parry's First Voyage in the Hecla and GripeVf 1819-20 . .

Names of officers serving, &c. — Enter Lancaster Sound. — The
Croker mountains proved to be fallacious. — Parry discovers
and enters Regent Inlet. — Also discovers and names various
islands, capes and channels. — Reaches Melville Island. — Expe-
dition cross the meridian of 110 deg. W., and become entitled
to the Parliamentary reward of £5000. — Drop anchor for the
first time.— Land on the island. — ^Abundance of animals
found. — ^An exploring party lose themselves for three days. —
But are recovered and brought back. — Tessels get into winter
quarters.-— A MS. newspaper published.— Amateur plftys per-
formed. — Observatory destroyed by fire. — Scurvy makes its
appearance. — Crews put on short allowance. — An excursion
of a fortnight made to examine the island. — Ships get dear
of the ice.— But are unable to make further progress to the
westward, and their return to Engl and. is determined on.

Party's Second Voyage in the Furif and Se(^ 1821>23 . .

His opinion as to a North-west passage. — Names of officers, &c.,
of the expedition. — Make Resolution Island at the entrance of
Hudson Strait. — ^Dangers of Hho ice. — Fali in with Hudson's
Bay Company's ships, and emigrant vessel, with Dutch colo-
nists proceeding to Red River. — Two immense bears killed.—-
Description of the Esquimaux. — Surveys made of all. the in-
dentations and coasts of this locality. — Ships driven back by
the current and drift-ice. — Take up their winter quarters.—
And resort to theatrical amusements again.— Schools estab*
Kshed.— Great severity of the winter. — Surveying operations
resumed. — Intelligent Esquimaux female affords valuable
hydrographical information. — Perilous position of the Hecla.
— Her miraculous release. — Ships pass their second winter a<t
Iglbolik. — The Fury and Hecla Strait examined. — Ice breaks
up. — Ships driven about by the current for thirty-five days. —
At last gain the Atlantic, and ihake for England.

Clavering's Voyage to Spitzbergen and Gietnland in tlie
Cfriper, 1823

Conveys out Captain Sabine to make observations. — Reach Spitz-
bergcn. — Proceed thence to Pendulum Islands. — North-eastern
coast of Greenland surveyed. — Captain Clavering and a party
of nineteen men carry on an exploring expedition for a fort-
night. — Meet with a tribe of Esquimaux. — Ship puts to sea.—
Make for the coast of Norway. — Anchor in Drontheim Fiord.
— Observations being completed, ship returns to England.

CONTENTS.

▼11

PAGE

. 85

. . 50

Lyon's Voyage in the Griper, 1824 , . . • , i ,

l3 sent to survey and examine the straits and shores of Arctic
America. — Arrives in the Channel known as Roe's Welcome. —
Encounters a terrific gale. — Is in imminent danger in the Bay
of God's Mercy.— Suffers from another fearful storm. — The
ship being quite crippled, and having lost all h«r anchors, ftc,
is obliged to return home.

Parry's Third Voyage in the Heela and Fwry, 1824-25 . . 87

Names and number of officers, &c. — Hecla laid on her broadside
by the ice. — Ships reach Lancaster Soimd. — Enter Segent
Inlet, and winter at Port Bowen. — Dreary character of the
Arctic winter. — Former amusements worn threadbare.-— Polar

■ Bal Masque got up. — Exploring parties sent out inland and
along the coasts. — Ships are released, but beset by the ice, and
carried by the pack down the inlet. — Fury driven on shore and
abandoned. — Return voyage necessarily determined on.—
Scarcity of animal food in this locality. — Hecla arrives at
Peterhead. — Parry's opinions of the North-west passage.

Franklin's Second Land Expedition, 1825-26.

Names of officers aceoonpanying faim.-~ Arrive in New York and
proceed through the Hudson's Bay Company's territories.—
Winter at Fort Franklin on Great Bear Lake. — A pioneer
party proceeds to examine the state of the Polar Sea. — Hetura
and pass the Ion; winter. — ^Descend the Mackenzie in the
spring. — Party divide; Franklin and Back proceeding to the
westward, whilst Dr. Bichardson and Mr. Kendal, &c., follow
the Coppermine River.— Franklin encounters a fierce tribe of
Esquimaux at the sea. — ^After a month's survey to the east-
ward, Franklin and his i>arty retrace their steps. — Find
Richardson and Kendal had returned before them, after
reaching and exploring Dolphin and Union Strait. — ^Another
winter spent at Fort Franklin. — Intensity of the cold. — Large
collection of objects of natural history made by Mr. Drum-
mond. — Franklin's struggle between affection and duty. —
Party return to England.

Captain Beechey's Voyage to Behring Strait in the Blossom,
1826-28 95

Anchors off Petropanlowski. — ^Receives intelligence of Parry'b
safe return. — Interview with the natives. — Correct hydro-
graphical descriptions given by the Esquimaux. — Ship's boat
pushes on to the eastward as far as Point Barrow, to commu-
nicate with Franklin. — Crew in danger from the natives. —
Oblicred to return to their ships. — The Blossom proceeds to
the Pacific to replenish her provisions. — Returns to Kotzebue
Sound in the summer. — Ship grounds on a sandbank, but is
got off. — Boat sent out to learn tidings of Franklin is wrecked.
—Crew come into collision with hostile natives, and are
wounded : picked .up by the ship. — Despatches left for Frank-
lin, and the sliip returns to England.

TIU

CONTENTS.

Fflrry*B Fourth or Polar Voyage in the ffecla, 1827

PAGE

. 98

Flans and suggestions of Scoresby. Beaufoy, and Franklin for
travelling in sledges over the ice.-* Names of officers employed.
—Ship embarks reindeer on the Norway coast. — Experiences
9, tremendous gale. — Beset by ice for a month. — Anchors at
Spitzbergen. — Sledge-boats prepared tot the ice journey. —
Description of them. — Night tamed into day.— -Slow progress.
—Occupations of the party. — Lose ground by the southward
drift of the ice. — Bear shot. — Notices of animals seen. — Beach
northernmost kno^vn land. — The islet named after Boss. —
Return to the ship. — Parry's subsequent suggestions on this
mode of travelling. — Sir John Barrow's comments thereon. —
Opinions of this perilous ice Journey. — ^Beview of Parry's
Arctic services.

,1 i

Captain Jolin Boss's Second Voyage in the Victory, 1829-33 107

Boss seeks official employment f)rom the Admiralty on another
Arctic voyage. — Is refused. — Funds are fiimished by Mr. Felix
Booth. — The Victory steamerpurchased. — Engages his nephew,
Ciommander James Boss, as his second in command. — List of
other officers. — Ship encounters a gale, and is obliged to put
into Holsteinborg to refit. — Proceed on their voyage. — Enter
Lancaster Sound and Begent Inlet. — Reach Fury Beach.—
Find abundance of stores there and preserved provisions in
excellent condition. — Beplenish their stock.— Proceed down
the inlet. — Perils of the ice. — Vessel secured in Felix Harbour
for the winter. — Esquimaux visit the ship. — ^Furnish very
correct sketches of the coast. — Ck>mmander James Boss makes
many excursions inland and along the bays and inlets. — Ex-
plores Boss's Strait, and pushes on to King William's Land.
—Difficulty of distinguishing land from sea. — Beaches Point
Victory, and turns back. — Ship gets clear of the ice, after
eleven months* imprisonment, but in a week is again frozen in,
and the party are detained during another severe winter.-—
Farther discoveries made, and Ciommander Boss plants the
British Flag on the North magnetic pole. — In August, 1831,
the ship is warped out, and makes sail, but after beating about
for a month, is again frozen in, and rather than spend a fourth
winter, there being no prospect of releasing the ship, she is
abandoned, and the crew make for Fury Beach. — Provisions
and boats taken on with great labour. — Party erect a canvas
hut, which they name Somerset House. — In a month, the
boats being prepared for the voyage, the party embark and
reach the mouth of the inlet. — Barrow's Strait is found one
compact mass of ice. — They are obliged to fall back on the
stores at Fury Beach to spend their fourth winter.— Placed
on short allowance. — In the spring they again embark in their
boats, and succeed in reaching Lancaster Sound. — Fall in
with whalers. — ^Are received on board the Isabella, Captain
Ross's old ship.— Arrive home. — Public rejoicings for their
safety. — Bcwarda granted.— Besumi of Captain John Ross's
services.

CONTiOITS.

Captain Back's Land Journey in search of Bom, 1833-35

PAOB

. 118

Attention called to the missing expedition by Dr. Richardson.
— Flans of relief suggested. — Public meeting held to consider
on best measu res. — Ample Ainds raised. — Captain Back volun-
teers. — Leaves England in company with Dr. King. — Yoy*
ageurs and guides, &c., engaged in Canada. — Party push
through the north-west country. — Dreadfyil sufferings from
insect pests. — Reach Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake.
—Motley description of the travellers and their en«. ^mpment.
— Arrangements are completed, and the journey in search of
the Great Fish River is commenced. — Frightful nature of the
precipices, rapids, falls, ravines, &c. — Meet with old acquaint-
ances. — Obliged to return to their winter quarters. — Dreadful
sufferings of the Indians. — Famine and intense cold. — Noble
conduct of Akaitcho, the Indian chief. — News received of
Captain Ross's safe return to England. — Franklin's faithful
Esquimaux interpreter, Augustus, endeavouring to join Back,
is frozen to death. — A fresh journey towards the sea resolved
on. — Provisions for three months taken. — Indian encamp-
ment. — Green Stockings, the beauty. — Interview with the
chief, Akaitcho. — Arduous and perilous progress towards the
sea. — Pilfering propensities of the Indians. — Meet with a large
friendly tribe of Esquimaux. — Reach the sea, and proceed
along the coast to the eastward, unable to arrive at the Point
Tnrnagain of Franklin. — Privations of the party on their
return journey. — Difficulties encountered in reascending the
river. — Reach Fort Reliance after four months' absence.-^
Pass the winter there. — Captain Back arrives in England in
September, after two years' and a half absence. — ^Dr. King
follows him in the Hudson's Bay spring ships.

iBack's Voyage in the Terror up Hudson's Strait, 1836 . . 132

Ship arrives at Salisbury Island. — Proceeds up Frozen Strait. — Is
blocked up in the ice^ and driven about powerless for more than
six months. — Cast on her beam ends for three days. — From the
crippled state of the ship and the insurmountable ditficulties
of the navigation, the return to England is determined on.—
Summary of Captain Back's Arctic services.

3Iessrs. Dease and Simpson's Discoveries on the Coast of
Arctic America, 1836-39 133

Descend the Mackenzie to the sea Survey the western part of

the shores of Northern America firom Return Reef to Cape
Barrow. — Discover two new rivers, the Garry and Colville.—
After reaching Elson Bay, return to winter at Fort Confidence,
on Great Bear Lake. — Survey resumed in the ensuing spring. —
Dangerous rapids on the Coppermine River. — Encamp at its
mouth. — Copper ore found here. — Victoria Land discovered,
and 140 miles of new coast traced. — Reascent of the Copper-
mine commenced. — Boats abandoned, and the Barren Grounds
traver? idon foot.-^Spend another winter at FortContidcnce. —

CONTENTS.

TAGS

The following season a third voyage commsnoed.— Richard-
son's River examined.— -Coronation Gulf found clear of ice. —
Coast survey to the eastward prosecuted. — Simpson's Strait
discovered. — Back's estuary reached. — Deposit of provisions
made by Back five years previous found. — Aberdeen Island,
the extreme point reached. — Parts of the coasts of Boothia
and Victoria Land traced. — One of the boats abandoned. —
Descent of the Coppermine, and safe arrival at Fort Con-
fidence.

luT. John Bae's Land Expedition, 1846-47

137

Hudson's Bay Company despatch Rae and a party of thirteen
men to complete the sur>'ey between Dease and Simpson's
furthest, and the Fury and Hecla Strait.— -Expedition leaves
Fort Churchill. — Reaches Wager River. — Boats taken across
Rae's Isthmus. — Winter residence constructed. — Short com-
mons. — West shore of Melville Peninsula, &c., examined. —
Party return to their encampment, and proceed to Fort
Churchill.— Gratuity of £100 awarded to Dr. Rae.

He
]

C:!ptain Sir John Franklin's Last Expedition in the Erebus
and Terror, .1845-54 140

Probability of the safety of the Expedition. — Montgomery's lines
on ice-imprisoned vessels. — Lady Franklin's devotion and
enthusiasm. — Verses. — Her appeal to the North. — Sir E.
Parry's opinion. — Outfit and despatch of Franklin's expe-
dition.— Names of the officers employed. — Outline of Frank-
lin's services. — Notices of the services of other of the officers.—
Searching Expeditions sent out in 1848. — DiflTerent volunteers
offer. — Absence of intelligence of Franklin. — His latest de-
spatches and letters. — Copper cylinders. — Franklin's views and
intentions. — Letters of Captain Fitzjames.— General opinions
of the most experienced Arctic officers as to Franklin's
safety. — Offer of services and suggestions by Dr. King.—
Opinions of Captains Parry and James Ross thereon. — Con-
sultation of officers at the Admiralty. — Report of the Hydro-
grapher. — ^Advice tendered by those consulted. — Views ol Mr.
Snow and Mr. McLean. — Public and private rewards offered
for discovery and assistance to be rendered. — Second Report
of Admiral Beaufort to the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty. — ^Various private and official letters and despatches,
pointing out, or commenting on, plans and modes of relief. —
Abundance of animal food found in the Arctic Regions. — A
ballad of Sir John Franklin.

i lie Government and Private Searching Expeditions . . .

List of the vessels and commanders, &c., employed on the
search in the Arctic Regions. — ^Notices of those returned
home. — EnterpHze and Investigator having returned unsuc-
cessful from Barrow's Strait, are refitted and sent out under
the command of Captain Collinson to Behring's Strait. —
Captain Austin, with six ships, sent out to Wellington

211

CONTENTS.

JACE
tit

)tt8

id,
[lia

on-

. 137

een
on's
ives
rose
om-
fl—
Fort

r\GE

»5ms

. 140

lines
and
• E.
;xpe-
•ank-

Cbannel. — Lady Franklin despatches the PriTice Albert under
Captain Forsyth. — Two vessels sent by private enterprise
from the United States. — Reports of their several proceedings
and discoveries. — Kemarkable drift in the ice of the American
vessels. — Dr. Ilao employed by the Hudson's Hay Company
to examine the shores of Arctic America. — Plover dcpdt ship
in Bchring's Strait, shifted 500 miles farther north. — Her
preserved provisions, to the extent of 10,570 lbs., condemned
as unfit for food. — Captain Inglefield's voyage in the Isabel
to Baffin's Bay, and important geographical discoveries. —
Keasons for discrediting the opinions that Sir John Frank-
lin's two vessels can be utterly lost.

Hopes and Fears— And theOourse of Operations for conclud-
ing the Search 22'J

Lady Franklin's enduring faith. — Her letter to the American
rrcsident. — New American expedition under Lieutenant
Kane, sent out by Mr. Grinnell. — Heartless fabrications and
imfounded reports promulgated. — Deserted ships alleged to
have been seen on an iceberg off Newfoundland. — Contradic-
tory opinions thereon. — Franklin's expressed intentions. —
Last letters from his ships. — List of provisions supplied to
the expedition. — Provident care of Sir John to provision his
ships. — Incentives to perseverance. — Franklin's observations
on Parry applicable to his own case. — Mr. Hilton suggests a
new plan of search by Spitzbergen. — Mr. Petermann sub-
sequently advises a similar plan of operation. — Exploration
over the ices by sledges, &c., found the most effective.—
Beasonings as to their probable safety. — Dr. Kae's personal
experience of supporting a large party. — Important geo-
graphical discoveries of the past three, years.— Indigenous re-
sources of the Polar Begions.

Discovery of the North-west Passage , . 241

Captain M'Clure reaches Melville Island from the westward. —
Meeting of the officers of the two expeditions. — Another Ameri-
can expedition. — The mystery of the North Pole. — Dr. John
Bae arrives in England with information and relics of Frank-
lin's party. — His report to the Secretary of the Admiralty. —
Letter to the J^mes. — Discussions at the Royal Geographical
Society. — Connecting links of information. — Probable truth
of some former disbelieved reports.-— Safety of the Enterprise.
— Further precise information of the death of Sir John Frank-
lin and his party, with records and relics brought home' in
September, 1859, by Captain M'Clintock, of the Fox.— Win
report to the Admiralty. — The Resolute found and presented to
the Queen.

Hii

THE

ARCTIC EEGIONS

If we examine a map of Nortliern, or Arctic, America,
showing what was known of the countries around the North
Pole in the commencement of the present century, we
shall find that all within the Arctic circle was a complete
blank. Mr. Hearne had, indeed, seen the Arctic Sea in
the year 1771 ; and Mr. Mackenzie had traced the river
whicn now bears his name to its junction with the sea ;
but not a single line of the coast from Icy Cape to Baffin's
Bay was known. The eastern and western shores of
Greenland, to about 75° latitude, were tolerably well
defined, from the visits of whaling vessels ; Hudson's
Bay and Strait were partially known ; but Baffin's Bay,
according to the statement of Mr. Baffin, in 1616, was
% bounded by land on the west, running parallel with the
90th meridian of longitude, or across what is now known
to us as Barrow's Strait, and probably this relation led to
the subsequently formed hasty opinion of Captain Sir
John Ross, as to his visionary Croker Mountains, of
which I shall have occasion to speak hereafter.

As early as the year 1527, the idea of a passage to the
East Indies by the North Pole was suggested by a Bristol
merchant to Henry VIII., but no voyage seems to have
been undertaken for the purpose of navigating the Polar
seas, till the commencement of the following century,
when an expedition was fitted out at the expense of certain
merchants of London. To tliis attempt several others
succeeded at different periods, and all of them were pro-
jected and carried into execution by private individuals.
The adventurers did not indeed accomplish the object they
exclusively sought, that of reaching India by a nearer
route than doubling the Cape of Good Hope, but though
they failed in that respect, the fortitude, perseverauce,

2 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

and sTvill wliich they manifested, exhibited the mo.^t irrc-
frajjablo proofs of the early existence of that suneriority in
naval afTairs, which has elevated this country to lier present
eminence amongf the nations of Europe.

At Icnjufth, after the lapse of above a century and a half,
this interesting question became an object of Ivoyalpatron-
ajje, and tho expedition which Avas commanded by Captain
Pliijips (afterwards Lord Mulpfrave), in 1773, Mas fitted
out at tho charge of Government. Tho first proposer of
this voyage Avas the Hon. Daines Barrington, F.R.S., who,
with indefatigable ai^siduity, began to collect every fact
tending to establish the practicability of circumnavigating
the Polo, and as he accumulated his materials he read them
to tho Poyal Society, who, in consequence of these repre-
sentations, made that application to Lord Sandwich, then
Pirst Lord of the Admiralty, which led to the appointment
of this first official voyage. Captain Phipps, however,
found it impossible to penetrate the wall of ico which
extended for many degrees between the latitude of 80°
and 81°, to the north of Spitzbergen. His vessels were
the Racehorse and Carcass; Captain Lutwidge being his
second in command, in the latter vessel, and having with
liim, then a mere boy, Nelson, the future hero of England.

From the year 1648, when the famous Russian navi-
gator, Senor Deshnew, penetrated from the river Kolyma
through the Polar into the Pacific Ocean, the Eussians
have been as arduous in their attempts to discover a north-
east passage to the north of Cape Shelatskoi, as the
English have been to sail to the north-west of the Ame-
rican continent, through Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound,
On the side of the Pacific many efibrts have, within the
last century, been made to further this object. In 1741,
the celebrated Captain Behring discovered the straits
which bear his name, as we are informed by Midler, the
chronicler of Russian discoveries, and several subsequent
commanders of that nation seconded his endeavours to
penetrate from the American continent to the north-east.
Prom the period when Deshnew sailed on his expedition, to
the year 1764, when Admiral Tchitschagof, an indefatigable
and active officer, endeavoured to force a passage round
Bpitzbergen, (which, although he attempted with a resolu-
tion and skill which fall to the lot of few, he was unable to
effect,) and thence to the present times, including the
arduous efforts of Captains Billings and Vancouver, and
the more recent one of M. Von Wrangell, the Russians
have been untiring in their attempts to discover a passage
eastwards, \q tho north of Cape Taimur and Cape Shelat-

INTRODUCTION.

10.4 irrc-
riority in
,'r present

nd a balf,
111 patron-
y Captain
^vas fitted
roposer of
R.S., wlio,
Dvcry fact
navijj;atiiig
read lUem
lese rcprc-
wicli, then
)pointxnent
, kowcver,
ice "whicli
;ude of 80°
easels were
e being bis
aaTing witb
of Engbmd.
issian navi-
rer IColyma
le BussianB
ver a nortb-
ioi, as tbe
,f tbe Ame-
Lster Sound,
witbin tbe
. In 1741,
tbe straits
Mliller, tbe
subsequent
'eavours to
nortb-east.
tpedition, to
tdefati gable
jjsage round
[tb a resolu-
8 unable to
jluding tbe
couTer, and
^e Eussians
(r a passage
lape Sbelatr

skoi. And certainly, if skill, perseverance, and courage,
could have opened this passage, it would have been
accomplished.

Soon after the general peace of Europe, when war'a
alarms had given way to the high pursuits of science, the
government recommenced the long-suspended work of
prosecuting discoveries within the Arctic circle.

Ai* expedition was despatched under the command of
Sir tltAn Eoss, in order to explore the scene of the former
labours of Frobisher and Baffin. Still haunted with the
golden dreams of a north-west passage, which Barrington
and Beaufoy had in the last ago so enthusiastically advo-
cated, our nautical adventurers by no means relinquished
the long-cherished chimera.

It must be admitted, however, that the testimony of
Parry and Franklin pass for much on the other side of the
question. Both these officers, whoso researches in the
cause of scientific discovery entitle them to very high
respect, have declared it as their opinion that such a pas-
satje does still exist to the north of the 75th degree of lati-
tude.

Captain Parry, in the concluding remarks of his first
voyage (vol. ii. p. 241) says, — " Of the existence of a north-
west passage to the Pacific, it is now scarcely possible to
doubt, and from the success which attended our efforts
in 1819, after passing through Sir James Lancaster's
Sound, we were not unreasonable in anticipating its
complete accomplishment," &c. And Franklm, in the
eleventh chapter of his work, is of the same opinion,
ss to the practicability of such a passage.

But in no subsequent attempt, either by themselves or
others, has this long sought desideratum been accomplished;
impediments and barriers seem as thickly thrown in its
way as ever. iCol. Mag.,\o\. xiii. p. 340.)

An expedition was at length undertaken for the sole
purpose of reaching the North Pole, with a view to the
ascertainment of philosophical questions. It was planned
and placed under the command of Sir Edward Parry,
and here first the elucidation of phenomena connected
with this imaginary axis of our planet formed the primary
object of investigation.

JVl y space and purposes in this work will not permit me
to go into detail, by examining what Barrow justly terms
" those brilliant periods of earfy English enterprise, so con-
spicuously displayed in every quarter of the globe, but in
none, probably, to greater advantage than in those bold

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

and persovcrinj; efforts to pierce throupfh frozen seas, in
their little slender barks, of the most miserable description,
ill provided with the means either of comfort or safety,
without charts or instruments, or any previous knowledi;e
of the cold and inhospitable rej^ion tliroujjh which they
liad to force and to feel their way ; their vessels oft beset
amidst endless fields of ico, and threatened to be over-
whelmed with instant destruction from the rapid whirling
and burstinpf of those huge floatinjif masses, known by th?
name of icebergs. Yet so powerfully infused into the
minds of Britons was the spirit of enterprise, that some of
the ablest, the most learned, and most respectable men of
the times, not only lent their countenance and support to
expeditions fitted out for the discovery of new lands, but
strove eagerly, in their own persons, to share in the glory
and the danger of every daring adventure."

To the late Sir Jolin Barrow, F.R.S., for so long a
period secretary of the Admiralty, and who, in early life,
himself visited the Spitzbergen seas, as high as the 80tli
parallel, we are mainly indebted for the advocacy and pro-
motion of the several expeditions, and the investigations
and inquiries set on foot in the present century, and to
the voyages which have been hitherto so successfully car-
ried out as regards the interests of science and of our
knowlodge of the Polar regions.

Although it is absurd to impute the direct responsibility
for these expeditions to any other quarter than the several
administrations during which they were undertaken, there
can bo no question but that these enterprises originated in
Sir John Barrow's able and zealous exhibition, to our
naval authorities, of the several facts and arguments upon
which they might best bo justified and prosecuted as
national objects.

The sad fate of Sir John Franklin and his gallant
companions has thrown a gloom on the subject, but
it ought to be remembered that, up to the present
period, our successive Polar voyages have, without
exception, given occupation to the energies and gallantry
of British seamen, and have extended the realms of
magnetic and general science, at an expense of lives and
money quite insignificant, compared with the ordinary
dangers and casualties of such expeditions, and that it
must be a very narrow spirit and view of the subject which
can raise the cry of " Cui bono,'* and counsel us to relin-
quish the honour and peril of such enterprises to Eussia
and the United States of America !

It can scarcely be deemed out of place to give here a

IN'TRODUCTIOX.

ti seap, in
script ion,
3r stttety,
nowUMjijo
lich tlioy
oft beset
be over-
I whirling
xn by th9
into the
it some of
blc men of
support to
lands, but
I the glory

80 Ions a
early life,
,8 the SOth
y and pro-
estigations
iry, and to
ssfully car-
md of our

jponsibility

ithc several
,ken, there
ginated in

[on, to our
ents upon

Isecuted as

lis gallant
ibject, but
le present
without

gallantry
I realms of

lives and

ordinary

id that it

Iject which

Ts to relin-

Ito Eussia

kye here a

sliort notice of the literary labours of this excellent and
talented man, as I am not aware that such an outline has
appeared before.

Sir John Barrow was one of the chief writers for
the Qti'irferli/ Review, and his articles in tliat journal
amount to nearly 200 in number, forming, when bound
up, twelve separate volumes. All those relating to tho
Arctic Expeditions, &c., which create < I tho greatest interest
at tho period they were published, were from his pen, and
consist chietly of tho following paners, cominenciui^ from
the 18th volume: — On Polar Ice ; On Belirinir's Straits and
the Polar Basin ; On lloss's Voyui,' ^ to Balliii's Bay ; On
Parry's First Voyage; Kotzebue's Voyage; Franklin's
First Expedition ; Parry's Second and" Third Voyages,
and Attempt to Reach the Pole ; Frankhn's Second Expe-
dition ; Lyon's Voyage to Repulse Bay ; Back's Arctic
Laud Expedition, and his Voyage of the Terror. Besides
these he published " A Chronological History of Voyages
to the Arctic Seas," and afterwards a second volume, " On
the Voyages of Discovery and Research within tho Arctic
Reijions."
., He also wrote Hves of Lord Macartney, 2 vols.
f 4to ; of Lord Anson and Howe, each 1 vol. 8vo ; of
Peter the Great ; and an Account of the Mutiny of tho
Bounty, (in tho " Family Library ;") " Travels in
^.tuthern Africa," 2 vols. 4to ; and " Travels in China and
Cochin China," each 1 vol. 4to.

In the " Encyclopfcdia Britannica " are ten or twelve of
Iiis articles, and he wrote one in the Edinhurgh Review by
special request.

In addition to these Sir John Barrow prepared for tho
pre?3 innumerable MSS. of travellers in all parts of the
I globe, the study of geography being his great delight, as
■ is evidenced by his having founded the Royal Geographical
% Society of London, which now holds so hi^h and influen-
tial a position in the learned and scientific world, and
has advanced so materially the progress of discovery and
research in all parts of the globe. Lastly, Sir John
Barrow, not long before his death, published his own
autobiography, in which he records the labours, the toil,
and adventure, of a long and honourable public life.

Sir John Barrow has described, with voluminous care
and minute research, the arduous services of all the chief
Arctic voyagers by sea and land, and to his volume I must
refer those who wish to obtain more extensive details and
particulars of the voyages of preceding centuries. He has
also graphically set forth, to use hie own words, " their

i !

I !

6 PROGRESS OP ARCirC DISCOVERY.

several characters and conduct, so uniformly displayed in
their unflinching perseverance in difficulties of no ordinary
description, their patient endurance of extreme suffering,
borne without murmuring, and with an equanimity and
fortitude of mind under the most appalling distress, rarely,
if ever, equalled, and such as could only be supported by
a superior degree of moral courage and resignation to the
Divine will — displaying virtues like those of no ordinary
caste, and such as will not fail to excite the sympathy, and
challenge the admiration, of every right-feeUng reader."

Hakluyt, in his " Chronicle of Voyages," justly ob-
serves, that we should use much care in preserving the
ipemories of the worthy acts of our nation.

The different sea voyages and land journeys of the pre-
sent century towards the !N'orth Pole have redounded to
the honour of our country, as well as reflected credit on
the characters and reputation of the officers engaged in
them ; and it is to these I confine my observations.

The progress of discovery in the Arctic regions has
been slow but progressive, and much still within the limits
of practical navigation remains yet unexplored. As
Englishmen, we must naturally wish that discoveries
which were first attempted by the adventurous spirit and
maritime skill of our countrymen, should be finally
achieved by the same means.

" Wil it not," says the worthy " preacher," Hakluyt,
" in all posteritie be as great a renown vnto our Enghsh
natione, to have beene the first discouerers of a sea beyond
the !N"orth Cape, (neuer certainely knowen before,) and of
a conuenient passage into the huge empire of Russia, by
the Baie of St. Nicholas and of the Eiuer of Duma, as for
the Portugales, to have found a sea beyond the Cape of
Buona Esperanza, and so consequently a passage by sea
into the East Indies ?"

I cordially agree with the Quarterly Review, that
"neither the country nor the naval service will ever beheve
they have any cause to regret voyages which, in the eyes
of foreigners and posterity, must confer lasting honour
upon both."

The cost of these voyages has not been great, while the
consequences will be permanent ; for it has been well re-
marked, by a late writer, that " the record of enterprising
hardihood, physical endurance, and steady perseverance,
displayed in overcoming elements the most adverse, will
„ong remain among the worthiest memorials of human
enterprise."
"How shall I admire." says Purchas, "your heroic

.j^

displayed in
no ordinary
Lie suffering,
animity and
:res3, rarely,
upported by
lation to the
no ordinary
mpathy, and
g reader."
' justly ob-
Bserving the

^softbepre-
edounded to
ed credit on

engaged in
itions.

regions has
lin the limits
plored. As
t discoveries
us spirit and
I be finally

., Hakluyt,
) our EngUsh
a sea beyond

'ore,) and of
)f Russia, by
Duma, as for

the Cape of
Lssage by sea

Eeview, that
ever beheve
, in the eyes
sting honour

at, while the
5een well re-
enterprising
)erseverance,
adverse, will
,1s of human

your heroic

INTRODUCTION. 7

couraije, ye marine worthies, beyond all names of wor-
thiness ! tliat ncytlier dread so long eyther the presence oc
absence of the sunne ; nor those foggy mysts, tempes-
tuous winds, cold blasts, snowe and hayle in the ayre ;
nor the unequall seas, which might amaze the hearer, and
amate the beholder, when the Tritons and Neptune's
solfe would quake with chilling feare to behold such mon-
strous icie ilands, renting themselves with terrour of their
own massiues, and disdayning otherwise both the sea'a
sovercigntie and the sunne's hottest violence, mustering
themselves in those watery plaines where they hold a con-
tinual civill warre, and rusning one upon another, make
windes and waves give backe ; seeming to rent the eares
of others, whUe thev rent tliemselves with crashing and
splitting their congealed armours."

So thickly are the polar seas of the northern hemisphere
clustered with lands, that the long winter months serve to
accumulate Held ice to a prodigious extent, so as to form
an almost impenetrable barrier of hyperborean frost —

•* A crystal pavement by the breath of Ileavcu
Cemented linn."

Although there are now no new continents left to dis-
cover, our intrepid British adventurers are but too eager
to achieve the bubble reputation, to hand down thoir
names to future ages for patient endurance, zeal, and en-
terprise, by explorations of the hidden mysteries of —

" tlie frigid zone,
AVhere, for relentless months, continual niglit
Holds o'er the glittering waste her starry light ;*

by undergoing perils, and enduring privations and
dangerSs which the mind in its reflective moments
shudders to contemplate.

It is fair to conjecture that, so intense is the cold, and
so limited the summer, and consequently so short the
time allowed for a transit within the Arctic chcle, from
Baffin's Bay to Behring's Straits, that a passage, even if
discovered, will never be of any use as a channel. It
is not likely that these expeditions would ever have been
persevered in Avith so much obstinacy, had the prospects
now opening on the world of more practicable con-
nexions with the East been known forty years ago.
Now that the sacred demands of humanity have been
answered, very little more will be heard about the north-
west passage to Asia; which, if ever found, must be
always hazardous and protracted, when a short and quick

V \h

I I

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

one can be accomplished by raiboads through America, or
canals across the Isthmus.

A thorough knowledge of the relative boundaries of
land and ocean on this our globe has in all ages, and by
all countries, been considered one of the most important
desiderata, and one of the chief features of popular infor-
mation.

But to no country is this knowledge of such practical
utility and of such essential importance as to a maritime
nation like Great Britain, whose mercantile marine visits
every port, whose insular position renders her completely
dependent upon distant quarters for half the necessary
supplies, whether of food or luxury, which her native
population consume, or which the arts and manufactures,
of which she is the emporium, require.

With a vast and yearly increasing dominion, covering
almost every region of the habitable globe, — the chart
of our colonies being a chart of the world in outline, for we
sweep the globe and touch every shore, — it becomes neces-
sary that we should keep pace with the progress of
Colonization, by enlarging wherever possible our maritime
discoveries, completing and verifying our nautical surveys,
improving our meteorological researches, opening up
new and speedier periodical pathways over the oceans
"which were formerly traversed with so much danger,
doubt, and diflSculty, and maintaining our superiority as
the greatest of maritime nations, by sustaining that high
and distinguished rank for naval eminence which has ever
attached to the British name.

The arduous achievements, however, of our nautical
discoverers have seldom been appreciated or rewarded as
they deserved. We load our naval and military heroes—
the men who guard our wooden walls and successfully
fight our battles— with titles and pensions; we heap
upon these, and deservedly so, princely remuneration and
all manner of distinctions ; but for the heroes whose
patient toil and protracted endurance far surpass the tur-
moil of war, who peril then* lives in the cause of science,
many of whom fall victims to pestilential climates, famine,
and the host of dangers which environ the voyager and
traveller in unexplored lands and unknown seas, we have
only a place in the niche of Fame.

What honours did England as a maritime nation
confer on Cook, the foremost of her naval heroes, — a man
whose life was sacrificed for his country? His widow
had an annuity of 200Z., and his surviving children
2ol. each per annum. And this is the reward paid to the

^■1
1

INTRODUCTION.

lerica, or

daries of
, and by
mportant
Jar infor-

practical
maritime
•ine visits
jmpletely
necessary
er native
ufactures,

, covering
the chart
ne, for we
nes neces-
ogress of
• maritime
al surveys,
)ening np
he oceans
h danger,
friority as
that high
has ever

nautical
rarded as
heroes—
[ccessfully
we heap
ration and
les whose
the tur-
[f science,
}, famine,
rager and
we have

le nation.

L — a man

[is widow

children

dd to the

most eminent of our naval discoverers, before whom
Cabot, Drake, Frobisher, Magellan, Anson, and the arctic
adventurers, Hudson and Batlin, — although all eminent for
their discoveries and the important services they rendered
to the cause of nautical science, — sink into insignificance !
If we glance at the results of Cook's voyages we fi.nd that
to him we are indebted for the innumerable discoveries of
islands and colonies planted in the Pacific ; that he deter-
mined the conformation, and surveyed the numerous bays
and inlets, of New Holland; established the geogra-
phical position of the north-western shores of America ;
ascertained the trending of the ice and frozen shores to
the north of Behring's Straits; approached nearer the
South Pole, and made more discoveries in the Australian
regions, than all the navigators who had preceded him.
On the very shores of their vast empire, at the ex-
tremity of Xamtschatka, his active genius first taught
the Russians to examine the devious trendin^s of the
lands which border the Frozen Ocean, in the neigh-
bourhood of the Arctic circle. He explored both the
eastern and western coasts above Behring's Straits to so
high a latitude as to decide beyond doubt the question as
to the existence of a passage round the two continents.
He showed the Russians how to navigate the dangerous
seas between the old and the new world ; for, as Coxe has
remarked, "before his time, everything was uncertain
and confused, and though they had imdoubtedly reached
the continent of America, yet they had not ascertained
the line of coast, nor the separation or vicinity of the two
continents of Asia and America." Coxe, certainly, does
no more than justice to his illustrious countryman when,
he adds, " the solution of this important problem was re-
served for our great navigator, and every Englishman
must exult that the discoveries of Cook were extended
further in a single expedition, and at the distance of
half the globe, than the Russians accomplished in a long
series of years, and in a region contiguous to their own
empire."

Look at Weddell, again, a pnvate trader in seal-skins,
AvLo, in a frail bark of 160 tons, made important dis-
L'ovories in the Antarctic circle, and a voyage of greater
length and peril, through a thousand miles of ice, than had
previously been performed by any navigator, paving the
\yay for the more expensively fitted expedition under
Sir James Ross. Was Weddell remunerated on a scale
eommensurate with his important services ?

Half a century ago the celebrated Bruce of Kinnaird,

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

by a series of soundino;s and observations taken in the
"Red Sea, now the great highway of overland eastern
traffic, rendered its navigation more secure and punctual.
How was he rewarded by the then existing ministry P

Take a more recent instance in the indefatigable energy of
lieutenant Waghom, R.N., the enterprising pioneer of the
overland route to India. What does not the commerce, the
character, the reputation, of this countiy owe to his inde-
fatigable exertions, in bringing the metropolis into closer
connexion with our vast and important Indian empire ?
And what was the reward he received for the sacrifices he
made of time, money, health, and life ? A paltry annuity to
himself of 100/., and a pension to his widow of 25 /.'per
annum !

Is it creditable to us, as the first naval power of the
world, that we should thus dole out miserable pittances,
or entirely overlook the successful patriotic exertions and
scientific enterprises and discoveries of private adven-
turers, or public commanders ?

The attractions of a summer voyage along the bays and
seas where the sun shines for four months at a time, ex-
ploring the bare rocks and everlasting ice, with no com-
panion but the white bear or the Arctic fox, may be all
very romantic at a distance ; but the mere thought of a
winter residence there, frozen fast in some solid ocean,
with snow a dozen feet deep, the thermometer ranging
from 40° to 50° below zero, and not a glimpse of the
blessed sun from November to February, is enough to
give a chill to all adventurous notions. But the oiiicers
and men engaged in the searching expeditions after
Sir John Franklin calmly weighed ail these difficulties,
and boldly went forth to encounter the perils and dangers
of those icy seas for the sake of their noble fellow-sailor,
whose fate was so long a painful mystery to the

world.

It has been truly observed, that *' this is a service for
which all officers, however brave and intelligert they may
be, are not equally qualified ; it requires a peculiar tact,
an inquisitive and persevering pursuit after details of fact,
not always interesting, a contempt of danger, and an
enthusiasm not to be damped by ordinary difficulties."

The -records which I shall have to give in these pages of
voyages and travels, unparalleled in their perils, their
duration, and the protracted sufferings which many of
them entailed on the adventurers, will bring out in bold
relief the prominent characters who have figured in Arctic
Discovery, and whose names will descend to posterity, em-

FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN ROSS.

1 in the
eastern
)unctual.
try?

snergy of
jer of the
lerce, the
his inde-
ito closer
. empire?
jritices he
mnuity to
f 25 Z. per

er of the
pittances,
ptions and
ite adven-

3 bays and
a time, ex-
th no corn-
may be all
lou^ht of a
olid ocean,
3r ranging
pse of the
enough to
the oineers
tions after
difficulties,
,d dangers
lUow-saiior,
y to the

I service for
It they may
Iculiar tact,
lails of fact.
?r, and an
bulties."
jse pages of
perils, their
Eh many of
lout in bold
led in Arctic
Isterity, em-

blazoned on the 'scroll of Fame, for their bravery, their
patient endurance, their skill, and, above all, their iiwn trust
and reliance on that Almighty Being who, although He may-
have tried them sorely, has never utterly forsaken them.

Capt. John Koss's Votage, 1818.

In 1818, His Eoyal Highness the Prince Eegent having
signified his pleasure that an attempt should be made to
iiud a passage by sea between the Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty
were pleased to fit out four vessels to proceed towards
the North Pole, under the command of Captain John
!Ross. No former expedition had been fitted out on
so extensive a scale, or so completely equipped in every
respect as this one. The circumstance which mainly led
to the sending out of these vessels, was the open character
of the bays and seas in those regions, it having been ob-
served for the previous three years that very unusual
quantities of the Polar ice had floated down into the
Atlantic. In the year 1817, Sir Jolm Barrow relates that
the eastern coast of Greenland, which had been shut up
with ice for four centuries, was found to be accessible from
the 70th to the 80th degree of latitude, and the inter-
mediate sea between it and Spitzbergen was so entu'cly
open in the latter parallel, that a Hamburgh ship had
actually sailed along this track.

On the 15th of January, 1818, the four ships were put in.
commission — the Isabella, 385 tons, and the Alexander,
252 tons — under Captain Boss, to proceed up the middle
of Davis's Strait, to a high northern latitude, and then to
stretch across to the westward, in the hope of being able
to pass the northern extremity of America, and reach
Behring's Strait by that route. Those destined for the
Polar sea were, the Dorothea, 382 tons, and the Trent, 24^
tons, which were ordered to proceed between Greenland
and Spitzbergen, and seek a passage through an open
Polar sea, if such should be found in that direction.

I shall take these voyages in the order of their publica-
tion, Ross having given to the world the account of his
voyage shortly after his return in 1819 ; while the narra-
tive of the voyage of the Dorothea and Trent was only
published in 1843, by Captain Beechey, who served as
Lieutenant of the Trent, during the voyage.

The following were the officers &c.*^of the ships under
Captain Ross : —

Ill

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

!|::

!iH

" !

, Isabella,

Captain — John Boss.

Lieutenant — W. Kobertson.

Purser — W. Thorn.

Sur<:!^eon — John Edwards.

Assistant Surgeon— C. J, Beverley.

Admiralty Midshipmen — A. M. Skene and James Clark

Boss.
Midshipman and Clerk — J. Bushnan.
Greenland Pilots — B. Lewis, master ; T. Wilcox, mate.
Captain (now Colonel) Sabine, K-.A.
John Saeheuse, an Esquimaux interpreter.
45 petty officers, seamen, and marines.
Whole complement, 57.

Alexander.

Lieutenant and Commander — William Edward Parry,

(now Captain Sir Edward.)
Lieutenant — -H. H. Hoppner (a first-rate artist.)
Purser — W. H. Hooper.

Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master ; J. Philips, mate.
Admiralty Midshipmen — P. Bisson and J. !Nius.
Assistant Surgeon — A. Fisher.
Clerk — J. Halse.
28 petty officers, seamen, &c.

Whole complement, 37.

On the 2nd of May, the four vessels being reported fit
for sea, rendezvoused in Brassa Sound, Shetland, and
the two expeditions parted company on the following day
ifor their respective destinations.

On the 26th, the Isabella fell in with the first iceberg,
which appeared to be about forty feet high and a thousand
feet long. It is hardly possible to imagine anything more
exquisite than the variety of tints which these icebergs
display ; by night as well as by day they ghtter with a
vividness of colour beyond the power of art to represent.
"U'hile the white portions have the brilliancy of silver,
their colours are as various and splendid as those of the
rainbow ; their ever-changing disposition producing effects
as singular as they are new and interesting to those who
have not seen them before.

On the 17th of June, they reached Waygatt Soimd,
beyond Disco Island, where they found forty-five whalers
detained by the ice. Waygatt Island, from observations
taken on shore, was found to be 5° longitude and S J

FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN ROSS.

es Clark
)S, mate.

fd Parry,

t.)

lips, mate,
us.

eported fit
bland, and
[owing day

^t iceberg:,

thousand

Ihing more

|e icebergs

Iter with a

Irepresent.

1 of silver,

lose of tlie

[ing effects

Itliose who

Itt So\ind,

re whalers

Iservations

and £'3

miles of latitude from the situation as laid down in the
Admiralty Charts.

They were not able to get away from here till the 20th,
when the ice began to break. By cutting passages through
the ice, and by dint of towing and warping, a slow progress
was made with the ships until the 17th of July, wnen two
ice-floes closing in upon them, threatened inevitable de-
struction, and it was only by the greatest exertions that
they hove through into open water. The labours of
warping, towing, and tracking were subsequently very
severe. This tracking, although hard work, afforded
great amusement to the men, giving frequent occasion for
the exercise of their wit, when some of the men occasion-
ally fell in through holes covered with snow or weak parts
of the ice.

Very high mountains of land and ice were seen to the
north side of the bay, which he named Melville's Bay,
forming an impassable barrier, the precipices next the sea
being from 1000 to 2000 feet high.

On the 29th of June, the Esquimaux, John Sacheuse,
who had accompanied the expedition from England as
interpreter, was sent on shore to communicate with the
natives. About a dozen came off to visit the ship, and,
after being treated with coffee and biscuit in the cabin,
and having their portraits taken, they set to dancing Scotch
reels on the deck of the Isabella with the sailors.

Captain Eoss gives a pleasant description of this scene
— " Sacheuse's mirth and joy exceeded all bounds ; and
with a good-humoured oflBciousness, justified by the
important distinction which his superior knowledge now
gave him, he performed the office of master of the cere-
monies. An Esquimaux M.C. to a ball on the deck of
one of H.M. ships in the icy seas of Greenland, was an
office somewhat new, but IsTash himself could not have
performed his functions in a manner more appropriate. It
did not belong even to Nash to combine in his own person,
hke Jack, the discordant qualifications of seaman, inter-
preter, draughtsman, and master of ceremonies to a ball,
with those of an active fisher of seals and a hunter of
white bears. A daughter of the Danish resident (by an
Esquimaux woman), about eighteen years of age, and by
far the best-looking of the half-caste group, was the object
of Jack's particular attentions ; which being observed by
one of our officers, he gave him a lady's shawl, ornamented
with spangles, as an offering for her acceptance. He
presented it in a most respectful, and not ungraceful,
manner to the damsel, who bashfully took a pewter ring

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

^1 ! I-

l:|i

ill

\'i'-

from her finger and gave it to him in return, rewardinfj
him, at the same time, with an eloquent smile, which
could leave no doubt on our Esquimaux's mind that ho
had made an impression on her heart." (Vol. 1, p. 67-8.)
On the 5th of August the little auks {Mergulus alle,)
were exceedingly abundant, and many were shot for food,
as was also a large gull, two feet nve inches in length,
which, when killed, disgorged one of these little birds
entire.

A fortnight later, on two boats being sent from the
Isabella to procure as many of these birds as possible,
for the purpose of preserving them in ice, they returned
at midnight with a boat-load of about 1500, having, on an
average, killed fifteen at each shot. The boats of the
Alexander were nearly as successful. These birds were
afterwards served daily to each man, and, among other
ways of dressing them, they were found to make excellent
soup — not inferior to hare soup. Not less than two
hundred auks were shot on the 6th of August, and served
out to the ships' companies, among whose victuals they
proved an agreeable variety, not having the fishy flavour
that might be eirpected from their food, which consists of
Crustacea, small fishes, mollusca, or marine vegetables.

On the 7th of August the ships were placed in a most
critical situation by a gale of wind. The Isabella was
lifted by the pressure of ice floes on each side of her, and
it was doubted whether the vessel could long withstand
the grips and concussions she sustained ; " every support
threatened to give way, the beams in the hold began to
bend, and the iron water-tanks settled together. The two
vessels were thrown with violent concussion against each
other, the ice-anchors and cables broke one after the other,
a boat at the stern was smashed in the collision, and the
masts were hourly expected to go by the board ; but at
this juncture, when certain destruction was momentarily
looked for, by the merciful interposition of Providence
the fields of ice suddenly opened and formed a clear passage
for the ships."

A singular physical feature was noticed on the part
of the coast near Cape Dudley Digges : — " We have
discovered (says Boss) that the snow on the face of the
clifis presents an appearance both novel and interesting,
being apparently stained or covered by some substance
whicli gave it a deep crimson colour This snow was
penetrated in many placss to a depth of ten or twelve feet
by the colouring matter. ' There is nothing new, however,

inJ,

I ob
hi.
boi
in
am
pie
fiur

i.i'ii

FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN ROSS.

B, wliicU
I that Uo
p. 67-8.)
,us alle,)
for food,
in lentil*
ttle birds

from tlio

J possible,

J returned

ing, on an

ats of the

birds were

long other

:e excellent
than two

and served

3tuals they

,shy flavour
consists of

retables.

^d in a most

sahella was
of her, and
withstand
cry support
Id began to
r. The two
igainst each
er the other,
ion, and the
ard ; but at
nomentarily
providence
!lear passage

on the part
"We have
face of the
interesting,
le substance
is snow was
r twelve feet
ew, however,

according to BaiTow, in the discovery of red snow. Pliny,
and other writers of his time, mention it. Saussure found
it in various parts of the Alps ; Martin found it in Spitz-
ber'T^cn. and no doubt it is to be met with in most alpine

regions.

in the course of this tedious, and often laborious, pro-
gress through the ice, it became necessary to keep the
whole of the crew at the most fatiguing work, sometimes
for several days and nights without intenuission. When
this was the case, an extra meal was served to them at
midnight, generally of preserved meat ; and it was found
that this nourishment, when the mind and body were both
occupied, and the sim continually present, rendered them
capable of remaining without sleep, so that they often
passed tliree days in this manner without any visible
inconveuietice, returning after a meal to theu* labour on
the ice or in the boats quite refreshed, and continuing
at it without a murmur.

After making hasty and very cursory examinations of
Smith's and Jones' Sounds, Hoas arrived on the 30th of
August oif the extensive inlet, named by Baffin Lancaster
Sound. The entrance was perfectly clear, and the sound-
ings ranged from 650 to 1000 fathoms. I shall now quote
Boss's own observations on this subject, because from
his unfortunate report of a range called the Croker moun-
tains, stretching across this Strait, has resulted much of
the ridicule and discredit which has attached to his
accounts, and clouded his early reputation — *' On the 31st
(he says) we discovered, for the first time, that the land
extended from the south two-thirds across this apparent
Strait; but the fog which continually occupied that
quarter, obscured its real figure. During the day, much
interest was excited on board by the appearance of this
Strait. The general opinion, however, was, that it was
only an inlet. The land was partiaUy seen extending
across ; the yellow sky was perceptible. At a little before
4 o'clock a.m., the land was seen at the bottom of the
inlet by the officers of the watch, but before I got on.
deck a space of about seven degrees of the compass was
obscured by the fog. The land which I then saw was a
high ridge of mountains extending chrectly across the
bottom of the inlet. This chain appeared extremely high
in the centre. Although a passage in this direction
appeared hopeless, I was determined to explore it com-
pletely. I therefore continued all sail. Mr. Beverley, the
surgeon, who was the most sanguine, went up to the crow'i

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

■:i II

lilt.

ill

't'!i'
!ii:"i:

iliii

nest, and at twelve reported to me that before it became
thick he had seen the laud across the bay, except for n
very short space.

"At three, I went on deck ; it completely cleared for ton
minutes, when I distinctly saw the land round the bottom
of the bay, forming a chain of mountains connected with
those which extended along the north and south side.
This land appeared to be at the distance of eight leagues,
and Mr. Lewis, the master, and James Haig, leading man,
being sent for, they took its bearings, which were inserted
in the log. At this moment, I also saw a continuity of
ice at the distance of seven miles, extending from one
side of the bay to the other, between the nearest cape to
the north, which I named after Sir George Warrender,
and that to the south, which was named after Viscount
Castl^reagh. The mountains, which occupied the centre,
in a north and south direction, were named Croker's
Mountains, after the Secretary to the Admiralty." (Vol. 1,
p. 241-46, 8vo edit.)

They next proceeded to Possession Bay, at the entrance
of the Strait, where a great many animals were observed.
Deer, fox, ermine, bears, and hares, were either seen, or
proved to be, in abundance by their tracks, and the
skeleton of a whale was found stranded about 500 yards
beyond high water mark. Finding, as Ross supposed, no
outlet through Lancaster Strait, the vessels continued
their pro^jress to the southward, exploring the western
coast of Baffin's Bay to Pond's Bay, and Booth's Inlet,
discovering the treudmg of the land, which he named North
Galloway, and North Ayr to Cape Adair, and Scott's
Bay.

On September the 10th, they landed on an hhjid near
Cape Ellington, which was named Agnes' Monument. A
flag-staff and a bottle, with an account of their proceedings,
were set up. The remains of a temporary habitation of
some of the Esquimaux were here observed, with a fire-
place, part of a human skull, a broken stone vessel, some
Dones of a seal, burnt wood, part of a sledge, and tracks
of dogs, &c.

While the boat was absent, two large bears swam off
to the ships, which were at the distance of six miles from
the land. They reached the AlexandeVy and were imme-
diately attacked by the boats of that ship, and killed.
One, which was shot through the head, unfortunately
sank ; the other, on being wounded, attacked the boats,
and showed considerable play, but was at length secured
and towed to the Isabella by the boats of both ships. The

VOYAGE OF BUCHAN AND FRANKLIN".

it became
Dopt tor a

•ed for ton
lie bottom
?cted with
auth side,
it lea^fues,
.ding man,
<^o inserted
ntinuity of
from one
st cape to
Varrender,
r Viscount
he centre,
i Croker's
r." (Vol. 1,

le entrance
3 observed,
er seen, or
3, and the

500 yards
tpposed, no

continued
le western
►til's Inlet,
mod North
nd Scott's

ishjid near
tment. A

roceedings,

libitation of
rith a fire-

?ssel, some
md tracks

swam off

liles from
lere imme-
Imd killed.

)rtunately
Ithe boats,

th secured
iiips. The

anirnnl wrigliod 1131. Ubs., besides the blood it had lost,
wliicli was estimated at 30lbs. more.

On the following day, Lieut. Parry was sent on shore to
examine an iceberg, which was found to be 4109 yards
lonrr, 3869 yards broad, and 51 feet high, being aground in
61 fathoms^ When thev had ascended to the toj), which
was perfectly flat, they found a huge white bear in quiet
possession of the mass, who, much to their mortification
and astonishment, plunged without hesitation into tho
sea from the edge of the precipice, which was fifty feet
hi^i.

From careful observation it was found that there was
no such land in the centre of Davis Strait as James's
Island, which was laid down in most of tho charts.
Nothing deserving of notice occun-ed in the subsequent
course of the vessels past Cape Walsingham to Cumber-
land Strait.

Tho 1st of October having arrived, the lunit to which
his instructions permitted him to remain out, Ross shaped
his course homewards, and after encountering a severe
gale off Cape Farewell, arrived in Grimsby Roads on the
14th of November. As respects the purposes of Arctic
iscovery, this voyage may be considered almost a blank,
none of the important inlets and sounds of Baffin's Bay
having been explored, and aU that was done was to define
more clearly the land-bounds of Davis Strait and Baffin's
Bay, if we except the valuable magnetic and other obser-
vations made by Cant. Sabine. The commander of the
expedition was promoted to the rank of captain on paying
ofi^the ships in December, 1818.

The account of his voyage, published by Capt. Ross, is
of the most meagre and uninteresting description, and more
than half filled with dry details of the outfit, copies of his
instructions, of his routine letters and orders to his officers,
&c.

BuCHAN AND FbANKLIN.

Dorothea and Trent to Pole, 1818.

In conjunction with the expedition of Capt. John Ross,
jwas that sent out to the coast of Spitzbergen, and of which
jCapt. Beechey has pubUshed a most interesting account,
fcmbellished with some very elegant illustrations from liis
Ipencil. The charge of it was given to Capt. D. Buchan,
■|who had a few years previously conducted a very interest-
ing expedition into the interior of Newfoundland. The
[first and most important object of this expedition was the

PROORESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

r lu

•wli

iiii

discovorv of a passapfo over or as near the Poie, as miuht
bo possible, and tliroujjh Bolirinf^'s Straits into the Pacific.
But it was also hoped that it might at the name time
be the means of improving the geography and liydro-
graphy of the Arctic regions, of which so little was at that
time known, and contribute to the advancement of science
and natural knowledge. Tho objects to which attention
was specially pointed in the Admiralty instructions, were
the variation and inclination of the magnetic needle,
the intensity of the magnetic force, and how far it is
affected by atmospherical electricity ; the temperature of
tho air, the dip of the horizon, reifraction, height of the
tides, set and velocity of tho currents, depths and sound-
ings of the sea. Collections of specimens to illustrate the
animal, mineral, and vegetable kingdoms, were also
directed to be made.

Tho officers and crew appointed to these vessels
were : —

Dorothea, 382 tons.

Captain— David Buchan.

Lieutenant — A. Morell.

Surgeon— John Duke.

Assistant- Surgeon — W. G. Borland.

Purser — John Jermain.

Astronomer — George Fisher.

Admiralty- Mates — C. Palmer and W. J. Dealy.

Greenland Pilots — P. Bruce, master ; G. Crawfurd, mate.

45 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c.

Total complement, 55.

Trent, 249 tons.

Lieutenant and Commander — John Franklin.

Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechey (artist).

Purser — W. Barrett.

Assistant- Surgeon — A. Gilfillan.

Admiralty Mates — A. Eeid and George Back.

Greenland Pilots — G. Fife, master, and G. Xirby, mate.

30 Petty Officers and Seamen.

Total complement, 38.

Having been properly fitted for the service and taken
on boarcl two years' provisions, the ships sailed on the
25th of April. The Trent had hardly got clear of the
river before she sprang a leajc, and was detained in the
port of Lerwick nearly a foKuight undergoing repairs.

On the 18th of May, the ships encountered a severe

■^B

VOYAGE OF BrCIIAN AND FRANKLIN.

io, as mijilit
tho rac'ilic.
pame time
antl hydro-
was lit that
it of science
>h attention
ctions, were
etic needle,
iw far it is
iperature of
?iirbt of the
i and sound-
llustrate the
, were also

lese vessels

[ealy.
.wf'ard, mate.

tirby, mate,

je and taken
tiled on the
Iclear of the
lined in the
repairs,
led a severe

p.ilo, nnd under even stomi staysails "were buried gunwale
(Iccj) in thi^ waves. On I lie 'JUli thev si^lited Clierio
Island, situated in lat. Ti"" 33' JV., and lonir. 17^ 40' E.,
formerly 8o noted for its fishery, IxMnir much frequiMitcd
by wairuj^es, and for many years tho Museovy Com|)any
earried on a lucrative trade by sendinir ships to the island
for oil, as many as a thousand animals beinj; often cap-
tured by the crew of a single ship in the course of six or
sevj'ii hours.

Tlie pr()y;res9 of the discovery ships through the small
floes and huge masses of ice which floated in succession
past, was slow, and thest from their novelty were regarded
with peculiar attention from tho grotesque shapes they
assumed. Tho progress of a vessel through such a laby-
rinth of frozen masses is one of the most interesting sights
that offer in the Arctic seas, and kept the ollicers and crew
out of their beds till a late hour watching the scene.
Capt. Beechey, the graphic narrator of the vovage, thus
describes the general impression created : — " Inhere waa
besides, on this occasion, an additional motive for remain-
ing up ; very few of us had ever seen the sun at midnight,
and tliis night happening to be particularly clear, his broad
red disc, curiously distorted by refraction, and sweeping
majestically along the northern horizon, was an object of
imposing grandeur, which riveted to tho deck some of our
crew, who would perhaps have beheld with iudifrerence
the less imposing ell'ect of tho icebergs ; or it might have
been a combination of both these phenomena ; for it
cannot be denied that the novelty, occasioned by the
floating masses, was materially heiglitened by the singular
efl'ect produced by the very low altitude at which the sun
cast his fiery beams over the icy surface of the sea. The
rays were too oblique to illuminate more than the inequa-
lities of the floes, and falling thus partially on the grotesque
shapes, either really assumed by the ice or distorted by
the unequal refraction of the atmosphere, so betrayed the
imagination that it required no great exertion of fancy to
trace in various directions architectural edifices, grottoa
and caves here and there glittering as if with precious
metals. So generally, indeed, was the deception admitted,
that, in directing the roufe of tho vessel from aloft, we for
awhile deviated from our nautical phraseology, and shaped
our course for a church, a tower, a bridge, or some similar
structure, instead of for lumps of ice, which were usually
[designated by less elegant appellations,"

The increasing difficulties of this ice navigation soon,
owever, directed their attention from romance to th©

■0

f--*rr

I..I

H':

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

rcaiii}' of their positicn, the perils of which soon became
alarmingly apparent.

*• The streams of ice, between which we at first pursued
our serpentine course with comparative ease, gradually
became more narrow, and at length so impeded the navi-
gation, that it became necessary to run the ships against
some of these imaginary edifices, in order to turn them
aside. Even this did not always succeed, as some were
so substantial and immovable, that the vessels glanced ofl"
to the opposite bank of the channel, and then became for
a time embedded in the ice. Thus circumstanced, a vessel
has no other resource than that of patiently awaiting the
change of position in the ice, of which she must take
every advantage, or she will settle bodily to leeward, and
become completely entangled."

On the 26th the ships sighted the southern promontory
of Spitzbergen, and on the 28th, while plying to wind-
ward on the western side, were overtaken by a violent
gale at south-west, in which they parted company.
The weather was very severe. " The snow fell in heavy
showers, and several tons weight of ice accumulated about
the sides of the brig (the Trent), and formed a complete
casing to the planks, which received an additional layer at
each plunge of the vessel. So great, indeed, was the ac-
cumulation about the bows, that we were obliged to
cut it away repeatedly with axes to relieve the bowsprit
from the enormous weight that was attached to it ; and
the ropes were so thickly covered with ice, that it was
necessary to beat them with large sticks to keep them in a
state of readiness for any evolution that might be ren-
dered necessary, either by the appearance of ice to lee-
ward, or by a change of wind."

On the gale abating, Lieutenant Franklin found himself
surrounded by the main body of ice in lat. 80° N.,
and had much difficulty in extricating the vessel. Had
this formidable body been encountered in thick weather,
whilst scudding before a gale of wind, there would have
been very little chance of saving either the vessels or the
crews. The Trent fortunately fell in with her consort, the
Dorothea, previous to entering the appointed rendezvous
at Magdalena Bay, on the 3rd of June. This commodious
inlet being the first port they had anchored at in the Polar
regions, possessed many objects to engage attention.
What pai'ticularly struck them was the brilliancy of the
atmosphere-, the peaceful novelty of the scene, and the
grandeur of the various objects with which Nature has
stored these unfrequented regions. The anchorage is

'I II

VOYAGE OF EUCIIAN AND FUAXKLIX.

)n became

3t pursued

gradually

the navi-
ps against
turn tliem
some were^
glanced off
became for
ed, a vessel
waiting the

must take
eward, and

promontory
ag to wind-
)y a violent
I company,
fell in heavy
iJated about
I a complete
onal layer at
„ was the ac-
obliged to
he bowsprit
d to it ; and
that it was
;ep them in a
ight be ren-
)f ice to lee-
bund himself
lat. 80° N.,
jressel. Had
lick weather,
would have
essels or the
' consort, the
Hd rendezvous
commodious
in the Polar
jc attention,
[iiancy of the
ene, and the
I Nature has
[ancborage is

formed by rugged mountains, which rise precipitously to
the height of about 3000 feet. Deep valleys and glens
occur between the ranges, the greater part of which are
cither filled with immense beds of snow, or with glaciers,
sloping from the summits of the mountainous margin to
the verv edge of the sea.

The Imy is rendered conspicuous by four huge glaciers,
of which the most remarkable, though the smallest in
size, is situated 200 feet above the sea^ on the slope of a
mountain. From its peculiar appearance thia« glacier has
been termed the Hanging Iceberg.

Its position is such that it seems as if a very small
matter would detach it from the mountain, and precipitate
it into the sea. And, indeed, large portions of its front do
occasionally break away and fall with headlong impetuosity
upon the beach, to the great hazard of any boat that may
chance to be near. The largest of these glaciers occupies the
headof thebay, and, according^ toCaptain Beechey's account,
extends from two to three miles inland. Numerous large
rents in its upper surface have caused it to bear a resem-
blance to the ruts left by a wagon, hence it was named
by the voyagers the " Wagon Way." The frontage of
this glacier presents a perpendicular surface of 300 feet
in height, by 7000 feet in length. Mountain masses —

" Whose blocks of sapphire seem to mortal eye
, Hewn from cerulean quarries in the sky,

Witli glacier battlements that crowd the spheres,
Tlic slow creation of six thousand years.
Amidst immensity they tower sublime,
"Winter's eternal palace, built by Time."

At the head of the bay there is a high pyramidal
mountain of granite, termed Eotge Hill, from the' myriads
of small birds of that name which frequent its base,
. and appear to prefer its environs to every other part of
I the harbour. " They are so numerous that we have
I frequently seen an uninterrupted line of them extending
I fall half way over the bay, or to a distance of more than
I three miles, and so close together that thirty have faWen.
fat one shot. This living column, on an average, might
have bi^en about six yards broad, and as many deep ; so
that, allowing sixteen birds to a cubic yard, there must have
lieen nearly four millions of birds on the wing at one time.
The number I have given certainly seems large ; yet when
it is told that the little rotges rise in such nimibers as
completely to darken the air, and that their chorus is dis-
tinctly audible at a distance of four miles, the estimate
will not be thought to bear any reduction."

P];OCH'ESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

I IT

■ '; /■

ijli
Ml

iij

! 1

One of their earliest excursions in tliis bay was am
attempt to ascend the peak of Ilotnje Hill, " upon which,"
says Captain Beechey, "may now, perhaps, be seen at tho
height of about 2000 feet, a staff that once carried a red
flag, which was planted there to mark the greatest height
we were able to attain, partly in consequence of the steep-
ness of the ascent, but mainly on account of the detached
masses of rock which a very slight matter would displace
and hurl down the precipitous declivity, to the utter
destruction of him who depended upon their support, or
who might happen to be in their path below. The latter
part of our ascent was, indeed, much against our inclina-
tion ; but we found it impossible to descend by the ^\a.y^
we had come up, and were compelled to gain a ledge.
which promised tlie only secure resting-place we could
find at that height. This we were able to effect by
sticking the tomahawks with which we were provided into
crevices in the rock, as a support for our feet ; and some
of these instruments we were obliged to leave where they
were driven, in consequence of the danger that attended
their recovery." During the vessel's detention in this
harbour, the bay and anchorage were completely sur-
veyed.

When the first party rowed into this bay, it was
in quiet possession of herds of walruses, "o ho Avere so un-
accustomed to the sight of a boat that they assembled
about her, apparently higlily incensed at the intrusion, and
swam towards her as though they would have torn
the planks asunder with their tusks. Their hides were so
tough that nothing but a bayonet would pierce them.
The wounds that were inflicted only served to increase
tl.eir rage, and it was ^-ith much difficulty they were kept
off with fire-arms. Subsequently the boats went better
prepared and more strongly supported, and manj' of these
monsters were killed; some were fourteen feet in length
and nine feet girth, and of such prodigious weight
that the boat's crew could scarcely turn them.

The ships had not been many days at their anchorage
■when thej were truly astonished at the sight of a strange
boat pulhng towards the ships, which was found to belong
■to some Russian adventurers, who were engaged in the
collection of peltry and morfcc' teeth. This is the last re-
maining establishment at Spitzbergen still upheld by the
merchants of Archangel.

Although equally surprised at the sight of the vessels,
the boat's crew took courage, and after a careful scrutiny,
went on board the Dorothea ; Captain Buchan gave them a

VOYAGE OP EUCHAX AND FRANKLIN.

was an
vrliicli,"
1 at tlio
;d a red
b height
e stccp-
.ctaclicd
displace
le utter
port, or
le latter
• inclina-
the way,
a ledge..
70 could
?ffect by
ided into
nd some
icre tbey
attended
u in this
tely sur-

L it was
re so un-
Lssembled
isiou, and
lave torn
s were so
[•cc them.
5 increase
rt'cre kept
nt better
s- of these
in length

"weight

anchorage
a strange
to belong
Tcd in the
e last re-
Id by the

lie vessels,
scrutiny,
Ivc them a

kind reception, and supplied them with whatever they
wanted : in^ return for which they sent on board the
following day a side of venison in ex' oUent condition.
"Wishing to gain some further information of these people,
an officer accompanied them to their dwelling at the head
of a small cove, about four miles distant from the bay,
where he found a comfortable w- ooden hut, well lined with
moss and stored with venison, wild ducks, &c.

It is related by Captain Becchey that it was with
extreme pleasure they noticed in this retired spot, pro-
bably the most northern and most desolate habitation of
our globe, a spirit of gratitude and devotion to the Al-
mighty rarely exercised in civilized countries. " On land-
ing from the boat and approaching their residence, these
people knelt upon its threshold, and ojQTered up a prayer
with fervour and evident sincerity. The exact nature of
the prayer we did not learn, but it was no doubt one of
thanksgiving, and we concluded it was a custom which
these recluses were in the habit of observing on their safe
return to their habitation. It may, at all events, be
regarded as an instance of the beneficial effects which
seclusion from the busy world, vnd a contemplation of
the works of Nature, almost invariably produce upon
the hearts of even the most uneducated part of man-
kind."

On the 7th of June the expedition left the anchorage to
renew the examination of the ice, and after steering a few
leagues to the northward, fo'ind it precisely in the same
state as it had been left on the 2nd. In spite of all their
endeavours, by towing and otherwise, the vessels were
driven in a calm by the heavy swell into the packed ice,
and the increasing peril of their situation may be ima-
gined from the following graphic description : —

" The pieces at the edge of the pack were at one time
wholly immersed in the sea, and at the next raised far
above their natural hue of flotation, while those further
in, being more extensive, were alternately depressed
or elevated at either extremity as the advancing wave
forced its way along.

"The see-saw motion which was thus produced was
alarming, not merely in appearance, but in fact, and must
have proved fatal to any vessel that had encountered it ;
as floes of ice, several yards in thickness, were continually
crashing and breaking in pieces, and the sea for miles was
covered with fragments ground so small that they actually
formed a thick, pasty substance — in nautical language
termed * brash ice' — which extended to the depth of five

iiv''.

;i:ii!!

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

feet. Amidst this giddy element, our whole attention was
occupied in endeavouring to place the bow of the vessel,
the strongest part of her frame, in the direction of the
most formidable pieces of ice — a manoeuvre which, though
likely to be attended with the loss of the bowsprit, was
yet preferable to encountering the still greater risk of
having the broadside of the vessel in contact with it ; for
this would have subjected her to the chance of dipping:
her gunwale under the floes as she roUed, an accident
which, had it occurred, would either have laid open her
si^e, or have overset the vessel at once. In either ease,
the event would probably have proved fatal to all on
board, as it would have been next to impossible to rescue
any person from the confused moving mass of brash ice
which covered the sea in every direction."

The attention of the seamen was in some degree diverted
from the contemplation of this scene of dilHculty by tlic
necessity of employing all hands at the pump, the leak
having gained upon them. But, fortunately, towards
morning, they got quite clear of the ice.

Steering to the westward to reconnoitre, they fell in,
in longitude 4° 30' E., with several whale ships, and were
informed by them that the ice was quite compact to the
westward, and that fifteen vessels were beset in it. Pro-
ceeding to the northward, the ships passed, on the 11th of
June, Cloven Cliff, a remarkable isolated rock, whicL
marks the north-western boundary of Spitzbergen, and
steered along an intricate channel between the land and ice :
but, next morning, their further advance was stopped, and
the channel by Avhich the vessels had entered became so
completely closed up as to preclude the possibility also of
retreating. Lieut. Beechey proceeds to state —

" The ice soon began to press heavily upon us, and, to
add to our difficulties, we found the water so shallow that
the rocks were plainly discovered under the bottoms of the
ships. It was impossible, however, by any exertion on
our part, to improve the situations of the vessels. They
were as fii'mly fixed in the ice as if they had formed part
of the pack, and we could only hope that the current would
not drift them into still shallower water, and damage theni
against the ground."

The ships were here hemmed in in almost the sanif
position where Baffin, Hudson, Poole, Captain Phipps, an i
all the earlj voyagers to this quarter had been stopped.

As the tide turned, the pieces of ice immediately around
the ships began to separate, and some of them to twisi

-€

abs
i It a

VOYAGE OF BL'CHAN AND FRANKLIN.

2r»

tion was
D vessel,
a of the
, thougli
)rit, was
risk of
liit; for
' dipping:
accident
Dpen lier
lier case,
to all on
to rescue
brash ice

3 diverted

ty by till'

the leal:

, towards

3y fell in,
and were
act to the
I it. Pro-
he 11th of
ck, whicL
?n, and
ad and ice ;
)pped, and
became so
ity also of

us, and, to
lallow that
•oms of the
tertion on
els. They
rmed part
rent would
mage them

the same
?hipps, anl

topped,
tely around
m to twisi

round with a loud grinding noise, urging the vessels.
which were less than a mile from the land, still nearer and
nearer to the beach.

By great exertions, the ships were hauled in to smril
bays in the floe, and secured there by ropes fixed to the
ice" by means of large iron hooks, called ice anchors.
Shifting the ships from one part of this floe to the other,
they remained attached to the ice thirteen days. As this
change of position could only be effected by main force,
the crew werj so constantly engaged in this harassing
duty, that their time was divided almost entirely between
the 'windlass and the pump, until the men at length became
so fatigued that the sick-list was seriously augmented.
During this period, however, the situation o? the leak was
fortunately discovered, and the damage repaired.

An officer and a party of men who left the Dorothea to
^)ay a visit to the shore, about three or four miles distant,
lost themselves in the fog and snow, and wandered about
for sixteen hours, until, ^uite overcome with wet, cold, and
fatigue, they sat down in a state of despondency upon a

5iece of ice, determined to submit their fate to Providence,
'heir troubles are thus told —

*' To travel over ragged pieces of ice, upon which there
were two feet of snow, and often more, springing from
one slippery piece to the other, or, when the channels
between them were too wide for this purpose, ferrying
themselves upon detached fragments, was a work which
it required no ordinary exertion to execute,

*• Some fell into the water, and were with difficulty pre-
served from drowning by their companions; -u-hile others,
afraid to make any hazardous attempt whatever, were left
upon pieces of ice, and drifted about at the mercy of the
winds and tides. Foreseeing the probability of a separa-
tion, they took the first opportunity of dividing, in equal
shares, the small quantity of piovision which they had
remaining, as also their stock of powder and ammunition.
They also took it in turns to fire musktets, in the hope of
being heard from the r;hips."

The reports of the fire-arms were heard by their ship-
mates, and Messrs. Fife and Kirby, the Greenland ice-
masters, ventured out with poles and lines to their assist-
ance, and had the good fortune to fall in with the party,
and bring them safely on board, after eighteen hours'
absence. They determined in future to rest satisfied
with the view of the shore which was afforded them from the
ship, having not the slightest desire to attempt to approach
it agam by means of the ice.

•I

ijll'il

',1

Jl,i

M I'!

' ill

•! ;

itjsHI

•26

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

The pressure of tke ice against the vessels now became
very great.

" At one time, when the Trent appeared to be so closely
wedf?ed up that it did not seem possible for her to bo
moved, she was suddenly lifted four feet by an enormous
mass of ice {rettinjif under her keel ; at another, the frag-
ments of the crumbling floe were piled up under the bows,
to the great danger of the bowsprit.

" The Dorothea was in no less imminent danger, especially
from the point of a floe, which came in contact with her
side, where it remained a short time, and then glanced off,
and became checked by the field to which she was moored.
The enormous pressure to which the ship had been sub-
jected was now apparent by the field being rent, and its
point broken into iragments, which were speedily heaped
up in a pyramid, thirty-five feet in height, upon the very
summit of which there appeared a huge mass, bearing the
impression of the planks and bolts of the vessel's bottom."

Availing themselves of a break in the ice, the ships were
moved to an anchorage between the islands contiguous to
the Cloven Cliff; and on the 28th of June, anchored in
fifteen fiithoms water, near Yogel Sang. On the islands
they found plenty of game, and eider ducks.

I'he island of Vogel Sang alone supplied the crews with
forty rein-deer, which were in such high condition that
the fat upon the loins of some measured from four to six
inches, and a carcass, ready for being dressed, weighed
285 lbs. Later in the season, the deer were, however, so
lean that it was rare to meet with any fat unon them at

all. ...

On the 6th of July, finding the ice had been driven to
the northward, the ships again put to sea, and Captain
Buchan determined to prove, by a desperate effort, what
advance it was possible to make by dragging the vessels
through the ice whenever the smallest opening occurred.
This laborious experiment was performed by fixing large
ropes to iron hooks driven into the ice, and by heaving
upon them with the windlass, a party removing obstructions
in the channel with saws. But in spite of all their exertions,
the most northerly position attained was 80° 37' N.
Although fastened to the ice, the ships were now drifted
bodily to the southward by the prevailing current. They
were also much injured by the pressure of hummocks
and fields of ice.

On the 10th of July, Captain Beechey tells us, the
Tretit sustained a squeeze which made her rise four feet,
and heel over five streaks ; and on the 15th and 16th, both

VOYAGE OF EUCIIAN AND FP.ANKLrN.

' became

50 closely
ler to loo
jnormous
Ihe frag-
tlie bow 8,

especially
Tvith her
anced oflf,
s moored,
been sub-
nt, and its
ily lieaped
1 tlie very
fearing the
s bottom."
ships were
itiguons to
Dchorcd in
the islands

crews with
dition that

four to six
weighed

owever, so
on them at

cl,

n driven, to
ad Captain
ffort, what
the vessels
T occurred,
ixing large
y heaving
Ibstructions
exertions,
0° S7' N.
ow drifted
nt. They
hummocks

lis us, the

four feet,

16th, both

vessel.^ siijleivd eonsidevablo damni^c. " On that occasion,"
he .-ayf, *' "v^ e observed a Held lil'ti-cn feet in thickness
break up. and the pieces pile upon each other to a great
Iiei<j;iit. until they upset, when they rolled over with a
tremendous crash. Ihe ice near the ships was piled up
above their bulwarks. Fortunately, the vessels rose to the
pressure, or tliey must have had their sides forced in.
The D'ent received her greatest damage upon the quarters,
and was so twisted that the doors of all the cabins flew
open, and the panels of some started in the frames, while
her false sternpost was moved three inches, and her tim-
bers cracked to a most serious extent. The Dorothea
suliered still more: some of her beams- were sprung, and
two planks on the lower deck were split fore and aft, and
doubled up, and she otherwise sustained serious injury in
her hull. It was in vain that we attempted any relief; our
puny ellorts were not even felt, though continued for
eight hours with unabated zeal ; and it was not until the
tide changed that the smallest effect was produced. When,
however, that occurred, the vessels righted and settled in
the Avater to their proper draught."

Trom the 12th to the 19th, they were closely beset with
ice. For nine successive days following this the crews
>,vere occupied, night and day, in endeavouring to extricate
the ships, and regain the open sea. ThinkLag he had given,
the ice a fair trial here, the commander determined upon
examining its condition towards the eastern coast of Green-
land, and in the event of finding it equally impenetrable
there, to proceed round the south cape of Spitzbergen, and
make an attempt between that island and Nova Zembla.

On the 30th of July, a sudden gale came on, and brought
do^ n the main body of the ice upon them, so that the
ships were in such imminent danger that their only means
of safety was to take refuge amongst it — a practice which
has been resorted to by whalers in extreme cases — as their
only chance of escaping destruction.

I'he following is a description of the preparation made
to withstand the terrible encounter, and the hair-breadth
escape from the dangers ; —

•' In order to avert the effects of this as much as pos-
sible, a cable was cut up into thirty-feet lengths, and these,
with plates of iron four feet square, which had been sup-
plied to us as fenders, together with some walrus's hides,
were hung round the vessels, especially about the bows.
The masts, at the same time, were secured with additional
ropes, and the hatches were battened and nailed down.
By the time these precautions had been taken, our ap«

, I

.i'U

i. ii'li;

|l: :.;,•

T'iS! i

'''■'ii ;

rnoGHESs ot' arctic discovert.

proacli to the brcaLers only left us the alternative of either
permittiDg the ships to be drifted broadside ajjainst the
ice, and so to take their chance, or of endeavouring to
force fairly into it by putting before the wind. At length,
the hopeless state of a vessel placed broadside against so
formidable a body became apparent to all, and we resolved
to attempt the latter expedient."

Eagerly, but in vain, was the general line of the pack
scanned, to iind one place more open than the other. All
parts appeared to be equally impenetrable, and to present
one unbroken line of furious breakers, in which immense
pieces of ice were heaving and subsiding with the waves,
and dashing togejther with a violence which nothing ap-
parently but a solid body could withstand, occasioning
such a noise that it was with the greatest difficulty the
oflicers could make their orders heard by the crew.

The fearful aspect of this appalling scene is thus sketched
off by Captain Beechey : —

" No language, I am convinced, can convey an adequate
idea of the terrific grandeur of the effect now produced by
the collision of the ice and the tempestuous ocean. The
Bea, violently agitated and rolling its mountainous waves?
against an opposing body, is at all times a sublime and
awfid sight ; but when, in addition, it encounters immense
masses, ^vhich it has set in motion with a violence equal to
its own, its effect is prodigiously increased. At one mo-
ment it bursts upon these icy fragments and buries them
many feet beneath its wave, and tlie next, as the buoyancy
of the depressed body struggles for reascendancy, the
water rushes in foaming cataracts over its edges ; whilst
every individual mass, rocking and labouring in its bed,
grinds against and contends with its opponent, until one is
either split with the shock or upheaved upon the surface
of the other. Nor is this collision confined to any par-
ticular spot : it is going on as far as the sight can reach; and
when from this convulsive scene below, the eye is turned
to the extraordinary appearance of the blink in the sky
above, where the unnatural clearness of a calm and silvery
atmosphere presents itself, bounded by a dark hard line of
stormy clouds, such as at this moment lowered over our
masts, as if to mark the confines within which the effort^
of man would be of no avail. The reader may imagine the
sensation of awe which must accompany that of grandeur
in the mind of the beholder."

*' If ever," continues the narrator, " the fortitude of
seamen was fairly tried, it was assuredly not less so on thie
occasion j and I will not conceal the pride I felt in wit-

VOYAGE OF BUCIIAN AND FRANKLIN.

nessin^ the bold and decisive tone in which the orders
Tvere issued by the commander (the late Sir John
Franklin) of our little vessel, and the promptitude
and steadiness with which they were executed oy the
crew."

As the labouring vessel flow before the gale, she soon
uearcd the scene of danger.

" Each person instinctively secured his own hold, and
with his eyes fixed upon the masts, awaited in breathless
anxiety the moment of concussion.

'* It soon arrived, — the brig {Trent) cutting her way
through the light ice, came in violent contact with the
main body. In an instant we all lost our footing; the
masts bent with the impetus, and the cracking timbers
from below bespoke a pressure which was calculated to
awaken our serious apprehensions. The vessel staggered
under the shock, and for a moment seemed to recoil ; but
tlie next wave, curling up under her counter, drove her
about her own length within the margin of the ice, where
she gave one roll, and was immediately thrown broadside
to the wind by the succeeding wave, which beat furiously
against her stern, and brought her lee-side in contact with,
the main body, leaving her weather-side exposed at the
same time to a piece of ice about twice her own dimensions.
This unfortunate occurrence prevented the vessel pene-
trating sufficiently far into the ice to escape the effect of
the gale, and placed her in a situation where she was
assailed on all sides by battering-rams, if I may use the
expression, every one of w^hich contested the small space
which she occupied, and dealt such unrelenting blows, that
there appeared to be scarcely any possibility of saving her
from foundering. Literally tossed from piece to piece, we
had nothing left but patiently to abide the issue ; for we
could scarcely keep our feet, much less render any assist-
ance to the vessel. The motion, indeed, was so great, that
the ship's bell, which in the heaviest gale of wind had never
struck of itself, now tolled so continually, that it was ordered
to be muffled, for the purpose of escaping the unpleasant
association it was calculated to produce.

" In anticipation of the worst, we determined to attempt
placing the launch upon the ice under the lee, and hurried
into her such provisions and stores as could at the moment
be got at. Serious doubts were reasonably entertained of
the boat being able to live amongst the confused mass by
which we were encompassed ; yet as this appeared to be
our only refuge, we clung to it with aU the eagerness of 4
last resource."

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

> ^l

From tlio injury the vessel rcpeutccUy received, it
became very evident tiiat if subjected to tills concussion
for any time, she could not hold tojijetlier lontr; tlie
only eliance of escape, therefore, appeared to depeud upon
gettin<5 before the wind, and penetrating further into the
ice.

To effect this with any probability of success, it became
necessary to set more head-sail, though at the risk of tlie
masts, already tottering with the pressure of that whieli
was spread. By the expertness of the seamen, more sail
was spread, and under this additional pressure of can-
vass, the ship came into the desired position, and with the
aid of an enormous mass under the stern, she split a small
field of ice, fourteen feet in thickness, which had hitherto
impeded her progress, and effected a passage for herself
between the pieces.

In this improved position, by carefully placing the pro-
tecting fenders between the ice and the ship's sides, the
strokes were much diminished, and she managed to weather
out the gale, but lost sight of her consort in the clouds of
spray which were tossed about, and the huge intervening
masses of ice among which they were embayed. On the
gale moderating, the ships were fortunately got once more
into an open sea, although both disabled, and une at least,
the Dorothea, which had sustained the heavy shocks, in a
foimderuag condition. For the main object of the expedi-
tion they were now useless, and, both being in a leaky state,
they bore up for Fair Haven, in Spitzbergen. In approach-
ing the anchorage in South Gat, the IWnt bounded over a
sunken rock, and struck hard, but this, after their recent
danger, was thought comparatively light of.

On examining the hulls of the vessels, it was found they
had sustamed frightful injuries. The intermedia'^g lining
of felt between the timbers and planks seems to have
aided greatly in enabling the vessels to sustain the repeated
powerful shocks they had encountered. Upon consulting
with his officers, Captain Buchan came to the opinion that
the most prudent course was to patch up the vessels for
their return voyage. Lieutenant Franklin preferred an
urgent request that he might be allowed to proceed in his
own vessel upon the interesting service still unexecuted;
but this could not be complied with, in consequence of the
hazard to the crew of proceeding home singly in a vessel
so shattered and unsafe as the Dorothea. After refitting,
they put to sea at the end of August, and reached England
by the middle of October.

'ivcd, it
iicussioii
n>T ; the
ud upon
iuto the

became
k of the
at which
lorc sail

of cau-
with the
t a small
hitherto
r herself

the pro-
ides, the
weather
ilouds of
srvening
On the
ice more
at least,
•ks, in a
! expedi-
ky state,
jproaeh.-
d over a
J recent

md they
lining
to have
tpeated
nsulting
ion that
ssel3 for
rred an
d in hia
Lecuted ;
e of the
a vessel
efitting,
England

Fkanklin's First Land Expedition, 1819-21.

In 1819, on the recommendation of the Lords of tho
Admiralty, Capt. Franklin -vvas appointed to command an
overhmd expedition from Hudson's Hay to the nortliera
shores of America, for tho purpose of determining tho
latitudes and lon;,Mtudes, ana exploring tho coast of tho
continent eastward from the Coppermine Kiver. Dr. John
Kichardson, ll.!X., and two Admiralty midshipmen, Mr.
George Back, (who had been out on tho Polar expedition
in the previous year in H. M. S. Trent,) and Mr. liobert
Hood, were placed under his orders. Previous to his de-
parture from London, Capt. Franklin obtained all the
informatiea and advice possible from Sir Alex. Mackenzie,
one of the only two persons who had yet explored those
shores. On the 23rd of May, the party embarked at
Gravesend, in the Prince of IFales, belonging to tho Hud-
son's Bay Company, which immediatelv got under weigh,
in company with her consorts, the Edchjstone and Wear.
Mr. Back, who was loft on shore by accident in Yarmouth,
succeeded in catching the ship at Stromness. On the 4tli
of August, ill hit. 59° 58' N., and long. 59^ 53' W., they
first fell in with large icebergs. On the following day, th©
height of one was ascertained to be 149 feet. After a
stormy and perilous \oj'age they reached the anchorage at
York Flats on the 30th oif August.

On the 9th of Sept'^mber, Capt. Franklin and his party
left York Factory in a boat by the way of the rivers and
lakes for Cumberland House, another of the Company's
posts, which they reached on the 22nd of October.

On the 19th of January, Franklin set out in company
with Mr. Back, and a seaman named Hepburn, with pro-
visions for fifteen days stowed in two sledges, on tlieir
journey to Fort Chipewyan. Dr. Eichardson, Mr. Hood,
and Mr Connolly, accompanied them a short distance.
After touching at diflerent posts of the Company, they
reached their destination safely on the 26th of March, after
a winter's journey of 857 mUes. The greatest diificulty
experienced by the travellers was the labour of walking in
snow shoes, a weight of between two and three pounds
being constantly attached to galled feet and swelled
ankles.

On the 13th of July, they were joined by Dr. Eichardsou
and Mr. Hood, who had made a very expeditious journey
from Cumberland House ; they had only one day's pro-
Tiflions left, the pemmican they had received at the posts

. I

'>0

rriooiiESs OF arctic discovery.

'•I

: II

't\

bi'in^ so moiiKly lh:it tlioy wito (.»MiL,^Hl to leave it biliind.
Arrnugeini'iits amto now iimdo tor thoir journey north-
ward. Sixtoc'U Canadian voyajift'urs were en^atjed, and a
Chinewyan woman and two interpreters were to be taken
on troni (treat Slave Lake. The whole stock of provision
they could obtain before start in<>f was only siillieient for
one day's supply, exclusive of two barrels of lloiu', tliree
eases of preserved meats, some ehoeolate, arrow-root, and
portable soup, which had been brought from England, and
were kept as a reserve for the journey to the coast in the
following: season ; seventy pounds of* deer's flesh and a
little barley were all that the Company's olBcers could <jfivo
them. Tiie provisions were distributed among three canoes,
and the party set oft* in good spirits on the 18th of July.
They baa to make an in^'oad very soon on their preserved
meats, for they were unfortunate in their fishing. On the
21th of July, however, they were successful in shooting a
buftalo in the Salt Kiver, after giving him fourteen balls.
At Moose Deer Island they got supplies from the Hud-
son's Bay and North West Companies* officers, and on the
27th set out again on their journey, reaching Fort Provi-
dence by the 29th.

Shortly after they had an interview with a celebrated and
influential Indian chief, named Akaitcho, who was to furnish
them with guides. Another Canadian voyageur was here
engaged, and the party now consisted of the ofBcers
already named, Mr. Fred. Wentzel, clerk of the N. W.
Fur Company, who joined them here, John Hepburn the
English seaman, seventeen Canadian voyageurs, (one of
whom, named Michel, was an Iroquois,) and three Indian
interpreters, besides the wives of three of the voyageurs
who had been brought on for the purpose of making
clothes and shoes for the men at the winter establish-
ment. The whole number were twenty-nine, exclusive
of three children. I give the list of those whose names
occur most frequently in the narrative : J. B. Belanger,
Peltier, Solomon Belanger, Samandre, Benoit, PeiTault,
Antonio Fontano, Beauparlant, Vaillant, Credit, Adam
St. Germain, interpreter ; Augustus, and Junius, Esqui-
maux interpreters. They had provisions for ten days' con-
sumption, besides a little chocolate and tea, viz., two casks
of flour, 200 dried rein-deer tongues, some dried moose
meat, portable soup, and a little arrow-root. A small extra
canoe was provided for the women,and the journey for the
Coppermine Biver was commenced on the 2nd of August.
The party met with many hardships — were placed on
short diet-^and some of the Canadians broke out into open

FllAXKLINS FIU^T LAND EXTKOITION.

t bilund.
y uorlli-
•d, and a
be takt'n
proviti'ioa
I'iout for
)ur, thrt'C
root, and
;land, and
nst in the
sli and a
jould iiive
?e canoes,
of July,
preserved
. On tho
hooting a
teen balls,
the Hud-
md on the
ort Provi-

3rated and
( to furnish
was here
officers
he N. \V.
pburn the
s, (one of
ee Indian
voyao:eurs
>f making
establish-
exclusive
ose names
Belanger,
PeiTaiUt,
it, Adam
s, Esqui-
days* con-
two casks
led moose
all extra
J for the
August,
(laced on
into open

rebellion, rcnisinir to proceed further. However, they
w^Ti' ;if last calnu'il, and arrived on the 2()th of AuLiust at
Fort Knti'Pprise on Winter Lake, which, by the advice of
tlu'ir Indian y^uides, they detennined on makinu: tlu-ir
winlfr quarters. The total leni^tli of the voyajje from
Chip'Mvvan was 553 miles; and after leavin;^ iun't Provi-
(liiicc they had 'Jl.V mih's of porta'jfc to pass over. As tl»e
ni 'U had to traverse each porlauff four times with a load
of 180 lbs., and return three times li»;ht, they walked in
the whole upwards of 150 miles.

In consequence of tlu* refusal of Akaitcho and his party
of Indians to guide and accompany them to the sea,
because, as they alleged, of the ap})roach of winter,
and the imminent danger, Capt. Franklin was obliged
to abandon ])roceeding that season down tho river, and
contented himself Avith despatching, on tho 2yth, Mr.
Pack and Mr. Hood, in a light canoe, m ith St. Germain as
interpreter, eight Canadians, and one Indian, furnished
with eight days' provisions — all that could be spared.

They return(Hl on the 10th of September, after liaving
reached and coasted Point Lake. In the jneantime,
Franklin andliichardson, accompanied by J. Hepburn and
• two Indians, also maile a pedestrian excursion towards the
same quarter, leaving on the i)th of September, and re-
turning on the 14th. The whole party spent a long
winter of ten montiis at Fort Enterprise, depending upon
the iish they could catch, and tho success of their Indian
hunters, for food.

On the nth of October, the officers quitted their tents
for a good log house which had been built. The clay with
which the walls and roof were plastered had to be tem-
- pcred before the fire with water, and froze as it was
,t- daul)ed on ; but afterwards cracked in such a manner as to
i admit the wind from every quarter. Still the new abode,
I with a good fire of fagots in the capacious clay-built
|cliimney, was considered quite comfortable when compared
1 with the chilly tents.

1 Tho rein-deer arc found on the banks of the Coppermine
[Eiver early in May, as they then go to the sea coast to
ibring forth their young. They usually retire from the
?oast in July and August, rut in October, and shelter
themselves in the woods during winter. Before the middU''
)f October, the carcases of 100 deer had been secured in
their store-house, together with 1000 lbs, of suet, and som<.?
Iried meat ; and eighty deer were stowed away at various
listances from their house, en cache. This placing provi-
lious " en cache,'' is merely burying and protecting it from

, t

! I

. ji

I , i

l!!

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

wolves and other depredators by luavy loads of wood or
stone.

On the 18th of October, Mr. Back and Mr. Wcntzel,
accompanied by two Canadian voya<^eurs, two Indians and
their wives, set out for Fort Providence to make the neces-
sary arran<;ements for transporting the stores they expected
from Cumberland House, and to see if some further
supplies might not be obtained from the establishments on
Slave Lake. Despatches for England were also forwarded
by them, detaihng the progress of the expedition up to this
date. By the end of tlie month the men had also com-
pleted a house for themselves, 34 feet by 18. On the
26th of October, Akaitcho, and his Indian part}- of hunters,
amounting with women and children to forty souls, came
in, owing to the deer having migrated southwards. This
added to the daily number to be provided for, and by this
time their ammunition was nearly expended.

The fishing failed as the weatlier became more severe,
and was given up on the 5th of ^November. About 1200
white fish, of from two to three lbs., had been procured
during the season. The fish froze as they were taken from
the nets, becoming in a short time a solid mass of ice, so
that a blow or two of the hatchet would easily split them
open, when the intestines might be removed in one lump.
If thawed before the fire, even after being frozen for nearly
two days, the fish would recover their animation.

On the 23rd of November, they were gratified by the
appearance of one of the Canadian voyageurs who had set
out with Mr. Back. His locks were matted with snow,
and he was so incrusted with ice from head to foot, that
they could scarcely recognise him. He reported that they
had had a tedious and fatiguing journey to Fort Provi-
dence, and for some days were destitute of provisions.
Letters were brought from England to the preceding
April, and quickly was the packet thawed to get at the
contents. The newspapers conveyed the intelligence of
the death of George III. The advices as to the ex-
pected stores were disheartening ; of ten bales of 90 lbs.
each, five had been left by some mismanagement at the
Grand Bapid on the Sattkatchawan. On the 28th of
J^'^ovember, St. Germain the interpreter, with eight Cmti-
dian voyageurs, and four Indian hunters, were sent ofl' to
bring up the stores from Fort Providence.

On the 10th of December, Franklin managed to get rid of
Akaitcho and his Indian party, by representing to them the
impcssibiiitj' Oi maintaiiii.':g them. Thi.^ leader, however,

FRANKLIN 3 FIRST LAND EXPEDITION.

wood or

^'cntzel,
lians and
Lie ncces-
expected
! furtlier
ments on
brwardcd
up to tliis
ilso com-
On tlie
f hunters,
)ul?, came
•ds. This
lid by this

)re severe,
.bout 1200
1 procured
[akon from
3 of ice, so
spUt them
[ one lump,
ibr nearly
1.

od by the
ho had set
ivith snow,
foot, that
that they
ort Provi-
pro visions,
preceding;
jrc-t at the
Jiirenco of
to the ex-
of 90 lbs.
.ent at the
le 28th of
iivht C'aiki-
sent off to

[o^et ridof

Lo them the

however,

left them his asrcd mother and two female attendants ; and
old Keskarrah, the ffuide, with his wife and daughter,
remained behind. This dauj^hter, who was desij^nated
*' Green Stockings" from her dress, was considered a great
beauty by her tribe, and, although but sixteen, had
belonged successively to two husbands, and would pro-
bably have been the wife of many more, if her mother had
not recjuired her services as a nurse.

Mr. Hood took a good likeness of the young lady, but
lier mother was somewhat averse to her sitting ibr it,
fearing that "her dauijhter's likeness would induce the
Great Chief who resided in England to send for tbo
original I"

The diet of the party in their winter abode consisted
almost entirely of rein-deer meat, varied twice a week by
iish, and occasionally l\v a little flour, but they had no
vegetables of any kind. On Sunday morning they had a
cup of chocolate ; but their greatest luxury was tea, which
they regularly had twice a day, although A^nthout sugar.
Candles were formed of rein-deer fat and strips of cotton
shirts ; and Hepburn acquired considerable skill in the
manufacture of soap from the wood-ashes, fat, and salt.
The stores were anxiously looked for, and it was hoped
thev would have arrived by Incw Year's Daj'- (1821), so as
to Lave kept the tostival. As it was, they could only
receive a little flour and fat, both of which were considered
grout luxuries.

On the loth, seven of the men arrived with two kegs ot
rum, one barrel of powder, sixty pounds of ball, two rolls
of tobacco, and some clothing,

' They had been twenty-one days on their march from
Slave Lake, and the labour they uuderwent was sufliciently
e^-iuced by their sledge collars having worn out the
[shoulders of their coats. Their loads weighed from sixty
I to ninety pounds each, exclusive of their bedding and
[provisions, which at starting must have been at least as
much more. We were much rejoiced at their arrival, and
[proceeded forthwith to pierce the spirit cask, and issue to
leach of the household the portion of nim which had hcen
Ipromised on the flrst day of the year. The spirits, which
were proof, were frozen ; but aft(;r standing at the fire for
some time they flowed out, of the consistence of honey.
The temperature of the liquid, even in this state, was so
low as instantly to convert into ice tlie nioihture which
jondensed on tlie surfaeo of the dran, glass. Theflngers also
dhcred to the glass, and v^•ould doubtless have been spccdil/

fi'

1. 1

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

frozen had they been kept in contact with it ; yet each of
the voyat^ers swallowed his dram without experiencinif
the sHj^htest inconvenience, or complaininjor of tooth-ache."

It appeared that the Canadians had tapped the rum-
cask on their journey, and helped themselves rather
freely.

On the 27th, Mr Wontzel and St. Germain arrived,
with two Esquimaux interpreters who had been engaged,
possessed of euphonious names, representing the belly and
the ear, but which had been Anglicised into Augustus and
Jimius, being the months they had respectively arrived at
Fort Churchill. The former spoke English. They brought
four dogs with them, which proved of great use durmg
the season m drawing in wood for fuel.

Mr. Back, at this time, the 24th of December, had gone
on to Chipewyan to procure stores. On the 12th of
February, another party of six men was sent to Fort
Providence to bring up the remaining supplies, and
these returned on the 5th of March. Many of the caches
of meat \\hich had been buried early in the winter were
found destroyed by the wolves, and some of these animals
prowled nightly about the dwellings, even venturing upon
the roof of their kitchen. The rations were reduced from
eight to the short allowance of five ounces of animal food
per day.

On the 17th of March, Mr. Back returned from Fort
Chipewyan, after an absence of nearly five months,
during which he had performed a journey on foot of more
than eleven hundred miles on snow shoes, with only the
slight shelter at night of a blanket and deer skin, with the
thermometer frequently at 40° and once at 57°, and very
often passing several days without food.

Some very interesting traits of generosity on the part
of the Indians are recorded by Mr. Back. Often they
gave up and would not taste of fish or birds which thev
caught with the touching remark, *' We are accustomed to
starvation, and you are not."

Such passages as the following often occur in his nar-
rative — '• One of our men caught a fish, which, with the
assistance of some weed scraped from the rocks {tripe ch
roche) which forms a glutinous substance, made us a tole-
rable supper ; it was not of the most choice kind, yet ^ood
enough for hungry men. While we were eating it, I
perceived one of the women busily employed scraping an
old skin, the contents of which her husband presented ub
with. They consisted of poimded meat, fat^ and a greater
proportion of Indian's and deer's hair than either, and*

FilANKLINS FIRST LAND EXPEDITION.

thouffli sucli a mixture may not appear very allurln;^ to an
Eiiijlish stomach, it was thought a great luxury after three
cl'ivs' privation in these cheerless regions of America."

To return to the proceedings at Fort Enterprise. Oa.
the 23rcl of March, tiie last of the winter's stock of deer's
meat was expended, and the party were compelled to
consume a little pounded meat, which had been saved for
making pemmican. The nets scarcely produced any fish,
and their meals, which liad hitherto been scanty enough,
were now restricted to one in the day.

The poor Indian families about the house, consisting
principally of sick and infirm women and children, suffered
even more privation. They cleared away the snow on the
site of the Autumn encampments to look for bones, deer's
feet, bits of hide, and other offal. " When (savs Frank-
lin) we beheld them gnawing the pieces of hide, and
pounding the bones for the purpose of extracting some
nourishment from them by boiling, we regretted our
inability to relieve them, but little thought that we should
ourselves be afterwards driven to the necessity of eagerly
collecting these same bones a second time from the dung-
hill."

On the 4th of June, 1821, a first party set off" from the
winter quarters fz-i. T*oint Lake and the Coppermine Kiv^er,
under the charge > Dr. Eichardson, consisting, in all,
voyageurs and L h.n., of twenty -three, exclusive of
children. Each of me men carried about 80 lbs., besides
his own personal baggage, weighing nearly as much more.
Some of the party dragged their loads on sledges, others
preferred carrying their burden on their backs. On the
13th, Dr. Eichardson sent back most of the men ; and on
I he 14th Franklin despatched Mr. Wentzel and a party
with the canoes, which had been repaired. Following the
water-course as fiir as practicable to Winter Lake, Frank-
lin followed himself with Hepburn, three Canadians, two
Indian hunters, and the two Esquimaux, and joined Dr.
Kicliardson on the 22nd. On the 25th they all resumed
their journey, and, as they proceeded down the river,
were fortunate in killing occasionally several musk oxen.

On the 15th they got a distinct view of the sea from the
summit of a hill ; it appeared clioked with ice and full of
islands. About this tune they fell in with small parties of
Esquimaux.

^ Ou the 19th Mr. Wentzel departed on his return for
Slave Lake, taking with him four Canadians, who had
boon discharged for the purpose of reducing the expendi-
ture of provision as much as possible, and despatches to

'';

!■ I

V *

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

be forwarded to Enfjl^md. Ho was also instructed to
cause the Indians to deposit a relay of provisions at Fori
Enterprise, ready for the party should they returii that
way. The remainder of the party, including officers,
amounted to twenty persons. The distance that had been
traverstid from Eort Enterprise to the mouth of the river
•was about 334 miles, and the canoes had to be dragged
nearly 120 miles of this.

Two conspicuous capes were named by FrankUn after
Hearne and Mackenzie ; and a river wluch falls into the
sea, to the westward of the Coppermine, he called after
his companion, Hichardson.

On the 21st of July, Franklin and his party embarked
in their two canoes to navigate the Polar Sea to the east-
ward, having with them provisions for fifteen days.

On the 25th they doubled a bluff cape, which was named
after Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty. An opening on its
eastern side received the appellation of Inman Harbour,
and a group of islands were called after Professor Jameson.
Within the next fortnight, additions were made to their
stock of food by a few deer and one or two bears, which
were shot. Being less fortunate afterwards, and with no
prospect of increasing their supply of provision, the daily
allowance to each man was limited to a handful of pem-
mican and a small portion of portable soup.

On the morning of the 5th of August they came to the
mouth of a river blocked up with shoals, which Franklin
named after his friend and companion Back.

The time spent in exploring Arctic and Melville Sounds
and Bathurst Inlet, and the failure of meeting with Esqui-
maux from whom provisioiis could be obtained, precluded
any possibility of reachmg Eepuise Bay, and therefore hav-
ing but a day or two's provision left, Franklin considered
it prudent to turn back after reaching Point Turnagain,
having sailed nearly 600 geographical miles in traciuij
the deeply indented coast of Coronation Gulf from the
Coppermine Hiver. On the 22d Aug. the return voyage was
commenced, the boats making for Hood's Kiver by the
way of the Arctic Sound, and being taken as far up the
stream as possible. On the 31st it was found impossible
to proceed with them farther, and smrdler canoes were
made, suitable for crossing any of the rivers that might
obstruct their progress. The weight carried by each man
was about 90 lbs., and with this they progressed at the
rate of a mile an hour, including rests.

On the 5th of September, having nothing to eat, the
last piece of pcmmicau and a little arrow-root having

fp-Anxlin's fiust land exphditiox.

istructed to
ions at Pen

returii tliat
ing officers,
lat had becu
of the river

be dragged

ankliu after

falls into the

called after

y embarked
to the east-
days.

ti was named
ening ou its
ill Harbour,
or Jameson,
ade to their
jears, which
and with no
D, the daily
Iful of pem-

came to the
h Pranklin

'^ille Sounds
with Esqui-

precluded

srefore hav-

considered

Turnagaiu,

in tracing

from the
troyage was
ver by the
far up the
impossible
inoes were
that might

each man
ied at the

eat, the
>ot having

formed a scanty supper, and being without the

fire, thi

d in bed all day.

men
A sever

remamec
Bnow-storm lasted two days, and the snow even drifted
into their tents, covering their blankets seTeral inches.
" Our siiiTering (says Franklin) from cold, in a comfort-
less canvass tent in such weather, with the temperature at
20', and without fire, will easily be imagined; it was,
however, less than that which we felt from liunger."

Weak from fasting and their gannonts stiffened ^nth the
fros^, after packing their frozen tents and bedclothes the
poor travellers again set out on the 7th.

After feeding almost exclusively on several species of
Gyro])hora, a lichen known as tn'^e de roche, which
scarcely allayed the pangs of hunger, on the 10th '* they
got a uood meal by killing a musk ox. To skin and
cut up the animal was the work of a few minutes. The
contents of its stomach were devoured upon the spot, and
the raw intestines, which were next attacked, were pro-
nounced by the most delicate amongst us to be excellent."

AVearied and worn out with toil and suffering, many of
the party got careless and indifferent. One of the canoes
was broken and abandoned. With an improvidence
scarcely to be credited, three of the fishing-nets were
also thrown away, and the floats burnt.

On the l/thtliey managed to allay the pangs of hunger
by eating pieces of singed hide, and a little tripe de
rucJie. This and some mosses, with an occasional soli-
tary partridge, formed their invariable food ; on very
many days even this scanty supply could not be obtained,
and their appetites became ravenous.

Occasionally they picked up pieces of skin, and a
iiivr bones of deer which had been devoured by the wolves
in the previous spring. The bones were rendered friable
by burninir, and now and then tlieir old shoes were added
to the repnsl.

( ';i the 2Gth they reached a bend of the Coppermine,
whieli terminated in Point Lake. The second canoe had
been demolished and abandoned by the bearers on the
23rd. and they were thus left ^sa ithout any means of water
transport across the lakes and river.

On this day the carcass of a deer was discovered in the
cleft of a rock, into which it had fallen in the spring. It
was putrid, but little less acceptable to the poor starving
travellers on that account ; and a tire being kindled a large
portion was devoured on the spot, affording an unexpected
breakfast.

On tho Ist of October one of the party, who had been

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

out hunting, brought in the antlers and backbone of
another deer, which had been killed in the summer. The
wolves and birds of prey had picked them clean, but
there still remained a quantity of the spinal marrow,
which they had not been able to extract. This, although
putrid, was esteemed a valuable prize, and the spine being
viivided into portions was distributed equally. " After
eating the marrow (says Franklin), which was so acrid as
to excoriate the lips, we rendered the bones friable by
burning, and ate them also."

The strength of the whole party now began to
fail, from the privation and fatigue which they endured.
ITranklin was in a dreadfully debilitated state. Mr. Hood
was also reduced to a perfect shadow, from the severe
bowel-complaints which the tripe de roche never failed to
give him. Back was so feeble as to require the support of
a stick in walking, and Dr. E-ichardson had lameness
superadded to weakness.

A rude canoe was constructed of willows, covered with
canvass, in which the party, one by one, managed to reach
in safety the southern bank of the river on the 4th
of October, and went supperless to bed. On the follow-
ing morning, previous to setting out, the whole party ate
the remains of their old shoes, and whatever scraps of
leather they had, to strengthen their stomachs for the
fatigue of the day's journey.

Mr. Hood now broke down, as did two or three more of
the party, and Dr. llichardson kindly volunteered to
remain with them, while the rest pushed on to Fort
Enterprise for succour. Not being able to find any iripe
de roche, they drank an infusion of the Labrador tea-
plant {Lcdrum palustre, var. decumbens), and ate a few
morsels of burnt leather for supper. This continued to
be a frequent occurrence.

Others of the party continued to drop down with
fatigue and weakness, until tliey were reduced to five per-
sons, besides Franklin. When they had no food or
nourishment of any kind, they crept under their blankets,
to drown, if possible, the gnawing pangs of hunger and
fatigue by Sieep. At length they reached Fort Enter-

prise, and to their disappointment and grief found it a
perfectly desolate habitation. Tliere was no deposit of
provision, no trace of the Indians, no letter from Mr.
Wentzel to point out where the Indians might be found.
" It would be impossible (says Franklin) to describe our
sensations after entering this miserable abode, and dis-
covering how we had been neglected: the whole party

'%'

FRANKLINS FIRST LAND EXPEDITION.

;kbone of
ncr. The
clean, but
marrow,
, althou<j;li
pine beinLf
. " After

acrid as
friable by

began to
T endured.
Mr. Hood
the severe
'r failed to
support of
lameness

ered with
d to reach

1 the 4th
;he follow-

party ate
I scraps of
IS for tho

e more of
tecred to
to Fort
any inpe
ador tea-
,te a few
tinned to

)wn with
five per-
food or
[blankets,
iger and
j-t Enter-
mud it a
[eposit of
L'oni Mr.
)e fovmd.
?ribe our
land dis-
lle party

shod tears, not so much for our own fate as for that Oi'our
friends in the rear, whose lives depended entirely on our
5endin(>- immediate relief from this place." A note, how-
ever, was found here from Mr. Back, statinij tliat In* had
readied the house by another route two days before, and
was jToin? in search of the Indians. If he was unsuccess.
ful in findinnj them, he purposed walking to Fort Provi-
dence, and sending succour from thence, but he doubted
whether either he or his party could perform the Journey
to til at place in their present debilitated state. Franklin
and his small party now looked round for some means of
present subsistence, and fortunately discovered several
deer skins, which had been thrown away during tlieir
foi'mer residence here. The bones were gathered from
the heap of ashes ; these, with the skins and tlie addition of
in'jye de roche, they considered would support life toler'»^-'^ ^
well for a short time. The bones were quite acrid, L^x
the soup extracted from them, quite putrid, excoriated tue
mouth if taken alone, but it was somewhat milder when
boiled with the lichen, and the mixture was even deemed
palatable with a little salt, of which a cask had been left
here in the spring. They procured fuel by pulling up the
llooring of the rooms, and water for cooking by melting
tho snow.

Augustus arrived safe after them, just a-< tliey wero
sitting round the fire eating their supper of singed skin.

Late on the I3th, Belanger also reached the house, with
a note from Mr. Back, stating that he had yet found no
trace of the Indians. The poor messenger was almost
speechless, being covered with ice and nearly frozen to
death, having f:illen into a rapid, and for the third time
since the party left the coast narrowly escaped drowning.
After being well rubbed, having had his dress changed,
and some warm soup given him, he recovered suiBciently
to answer the questions put to him.

Under the impression that the Indians must be on their
way to Fort Providence, and that it would be possible to
overtake them, as they usually travelled slowly with ?heir
tamilies, and there being likewise a prospect of killing
doer about Reindeer Lake, where they had been usually
found abundant, Franklin determined to take the route
for that post, and sent word to i\Ir. Back by Belanger to
that elfect on the 18th.

On tli(f'20th Oct. Franklin set out in company with Beiioijy
and Augustus to seek rehef, having patched three pair.^ of
*now shoes, and taken some singed skin for their support.
Peltier and Samandrc had volunteered to remain r.L the

t :

PROC.nESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEUY.

house witli Adam, uho was too ill to proceed. They vrcvo
80 feeble as seaveely to bo able to movp Au2^u.stu3, the
Esquimaux, tried for fish, without success, so that their
onl}- fare was skin and tea. At night, composing then?-
Bolves to rest, they lav close to eacli other for warmth, but
found the night bitterly cold, and the wind pierced through
their famished frames.

On resuming the journey next morning. FrankUn had
the misfortune to break his snow-shoes, by falling between
two rooks. This accident preyented him from keeping
pace with the others, and in the attempt he became quite
exhausted ; unwilling to delay their progress, as the
safety of all behind depended on their obtaining early
assistance and immediate supplies, Franklin resolved to
turn back, while the others pushed on to meet Mr. Back,
or, missing him, they were directed to proceed to Fort Pro-
vidence. Franklin found the two Canadians he had left at
the house dreadfully weak and reduced, and so low-spirited
that he had great difficulty in rallying them to any exertion.
As the insides of their mouths had become sore from
eating the bone-soup, they now relinquished the use of it,
and boiled the skin, which mode of dressing was found
more palatable than frying it. They had pulled down
nearly all their dwclhng for fuel, to wann themselves and
cook their scanty meals. The trijoe de roche, on which
they had depended, now became entirely frozen ; and
what was more tantalizing to their perishing frames, was
the sight of food within reach, whicn they could not pro-
cure. " We saw (says Franklin) a herd of rein-deer
sporting on the river, about half a mile from the house ;
they remained there a long time, but none of the party
felt themselves strong enough to go after them, nor was
there one of us who could have fired a gun without rest-
ing it."

Whilst they were seated round the fire this evening,
discoursing about the anticipated relief, the sound of voices
was heard, which was thought with joy to be that of the
Indians, but, to their bitter disappointment, the debilitated
frames and emaciated countenances of Dr. Richardson and
Hepburn presented themselves at the door. They -were
of course gladly received, although each marked the
ravages which famine, care, and fatigue had made on the
other. The Doctor particularly remarked the sepulchral
tone of the voices of his friends, which he requeued them
to make more cheerfid if possible, unconscious that his
own partook of the same key.
Hepburn having shot a partridge, which was brought tc

niAXKLiNS FinsT LA^'r) expedition

'hoy vrovo
Listus, the
that their
mg thew-
rmth, but
d through

nklin had
gf between
1 keepinjT
ame quite
s, as the
ling early
esolved to
Mr. Back.
Fort Pro-
had left at
)w-8pirited
y exertion,
sore from
3 use of it,
was found
illed down
iselvcs and
, on which
Dzen ; and
rames, was
d not pro-
rein-deer
he house ;
the party
n, nor was
;hout rest-

eveninf^.

of voices
lat of the
iebilitated
Irdson and
?hey were
pked the
ide on the
sepulchral
l^ed them

that his

Irought to

tlic house. Dr. liichardson tore out tlio foatliors, and
IiaviniT liL'ld it to the iire a few minutes, divided it into six
portions. Franklin and his three companions ravenously
devoured their shares, as it was the first morsel of llesh any
of them had tasted for thirtjr-one days, unless, indeed,
tlie small gristly particles which they found adherinji? to
the pounded bones may be termed flesh. Their spirits
were revived by this small supply, and the Doctor endea-
voured to raise them still higher by the prospect of Hep-
burn's l)eing able to kill a deer next day, as they had seen,
and even fired at, several near the house. Ho endeavoured.
too, to rouse them into some attention to the comfort of
tlieir a]iartment. Having brought his Prayer-book and
TejJtanieiit, some prayers, psalms, and portions of scrip-
ture, appropriate to tlieir situation, were read out by Dr.
liicliardson, and they retired to their blankets.

Early next morning, the Doctor and Hepburn went
out in search of game ; but though they saw several
herds of deer, and fired some shots, they were not so for-
tunate as to kill any, being too weak to hold their guns
steadily. The cold compelled the former to return soon,
but Hepburn perseveringly persisted until lato in the
evening.

" My occupation (continues Franklin) was to search for
skins under the snow, it being now our object immediately
to get all that we could ; but I had not strength to drag in
more than two of those which were within twenty yards of
the house, until the Doctor came and assisted me. Wo
made up our stock to twenty-six; but several of them
wore putrid, and scarcely eatable, even by men suffering
the extremity of famine. Peltier and Samandre continued
very weak and dispirited, and they were unable to cut
firewood. Hepburn had, in consequence, that laborious
task to perform after he came back late from hunting."
To the exertions, honesty, kindness, and consideration of
this worthy man, the safety of most of the party is to bo
attributed. And I may here mention that Sir John
Franklin, when he became governor of Van Diemen*s Laud,
obtained for him a good civil appointment. This deserv-
ing man, I am informed by Mr. Barrow, is now in Eng-
land, having lost his oflicje, which, I believe, has been
abolished. It is to be hoped something wLQ he done for
him by the government.

After their usual supper of singed skin and bone soup.
Dr. Eichardson acquainted Franklin with the events that
had transpired since their parting, particularly with the
afflicting circiunstances attending the death of Mr. Hood,

pr»o(;uF,ss of arctic ptscoveuy.

and ]\[iclicl, the Iroiiuois; the paniciihir.s of ^vhi('h I shall
nou' proceed to condense irom liis narrative.

After Captain Franklin liad bidden them farewell, having
no tripe dc roche they drank an infusion of the country-
tea plant, which was grateful from its warmth, although it
aliorded no sut«tenance. The}- then retired to bed, and
kept to their blankets all next day, as the snow drift
was so heavy as to prevent their lightin^: a fire with the
green and frozen willows, which were their only fuel.

Through the extreme kindness and forethought of a
lady, the party, previous to leaving Loudon, had been
furnished with a small collection of religious books, of
which (says Richardson) we still retained two or three of
the most portable, and they proved of incalculable benefit
to us.

" Wo read portions of them to each other as we lay in
bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, and
found that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong
a sense of the Omnipresence of a beneficent God, that our
situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longer destitute;
and we conversed not only with calmness, but with cheer-
fulness, detailing with unrestrained confidence the past
events of our lives, and dwelling with hope on our future
prospects." How beautiful a picture have we here repre-
sented, of true piety and resignation to the Divine Will
inducing patience and submission under an unexampled
load of misery and privation.

Michel the Iroquois joined them on the 9th Oct., having,
there is strong reason to believe, murdered two of the
Canadians who were with him, Jean Eaptiste Belangcr and
Perriuilt, as thev were never seen afterwards, and he gave
so many ramblmg and contradictory statements of his
proceedings, that no credit could be attached to his story.

The travellers proceeded on their tedious journey by
slow stages. Mr. Hood was much afiected with dimness
of sight, giddiness, and other symptoms of extreme debi-
lity, which caused them to move slowly and to make fre-
quent halts. Michel absented himself all day of the lOth,
an<l oi;ly arrived at their encampment near the pines late
on the ilth.

He reported that he had been in chase of some deer
which passed near his sleeping place in the morning, and
although he did not come up witli them, yet that he found
a wolf which had been killed by the stroke of a deer's
horn, and had brought n part of it.

JRichardson adds — ""Wo implicitly believed this story
tLeu, but afterwards became aware — from circumstances.

FRANKLINS FIRST LAND EXPEDITION.

h I j^Lall

11, having
country
though it
bod, and
LOW drift
with tho
fuel.

iijht of a
had been
books, of
p three of
lo benefit

we lay in
rvice, and
80 strong
., that our
destitute;
ith cheer-
j the past
our future
ere repre-
ivino \Vill
lexampled

, having,
wo of the
anger and
id he gave
ts of his
his story,
mrney by
1 dimness
cnio debi-
make fre-
the 10th,
pines late

lome deer
•niug, and
he found
f a deer'3

this story
Imstauces,

the details of wliich may be snared — that it must have
been a portion of the body of l3elanger or Perrault. A
question of moment here presents itself — namely, whether
he actually murdered these men, or either of them, or
whether he found the bodies in the snow. Captain
Franklin, who is the best able to judge of this nuitter,
from knowing their situation when lie parted iVom them,
suggested the former idea, and that both these men had
been saerificed; that Michel, having already destroyed
Belanger, completed his crime by Perrault's death, iu
order to screen himself from detection."

Although this opinion is founded only on circumstances,
and is unsupi)orted by direct evidence, it has been judged
pvoner to mention it, especially as the subsequent conduct
v( the man showed that he was capable of committing such
a deed. It is not easy to assign any other adequate mo-
tive for his concealing from Richardson that Perrault had
turned back; while hi* request, over-night, that thev would
leave him the hatc^^ t. and his cumbering himself with it
when he went out in the morning, unlike a hunter, who
makes use only of his knife when he kills a deer, seem to
indicate that he took it for the purpose of cutting up some-
thing that he knew to be frozen.

Michel left them early next day, refusing Dr. Eichard-
son's oiler to accompany him, and remained out all day.
He would not sleep in the tent with the other two at night.
On the 13th, there beinjj: a heavy gale, they passed tlie day
by their ilre, without food. Kext day, at noon, Michel
set out, as he said, to hunt, but returned unexpectedly iu
a short time. This conduct surprised his companions, and
his contradictory and evasive ansAvers to their questions
excited their suspicions still further. He subsequently re-
fused either to hunt or cut wood, spoke in a very surly
manner, and threatened to leave them. When reasoned
with by Mr. Hood, his anger was excited, and he replied
it was no use hunting — there were no animals, and they had
better kill and eat him.

*' At this period," observes Dr. E-ichardson, " we avoided
as much as possible conversing upon the hopelessness of
our situation, and generally endeavoured to lead the con-
versation towards our future prospects in life. The fact is,
that with the decay of our strength, our minds decayed,
and we were no longer able to bear the contemplation of
the horrors that surrounded us. Yet we were calm and
resigned to our fate; not a murmur escaped us, and wo
'Were punctual iwd fenreutin our addresses to the Supreme
Being."

PROORfiSS OP ARCTIC DISCOVKRT.

On tlio Tnorninp of tlio 20tli, tUoy au;nin iir^ed Michel
to ^o u-hunlinj;, tluit lio niij^lit, if posail)lt', Ifiivc? them
some provision, as he intendml (luittiu^ them next dny,
but he showed firvni unwillin<;nes9 to <:o out, and lingered
ahout the lire under the preteneo of clenninc: liis <,nni.
After the mominj; sen'ice hud been rend. Dr. liiehnrdson
went out to gntlier Bomo trij)e de rochc, leuvinjj Mr.
Hood sitliufj before tlie tent ut the fireside, urfjnin«j with
Miehel; Hepburn was employed euttintjf lire-wood. While
they were thus en}; /ed, tnc troneherous Iroquois took the
op])orf unity to plaee his \i\\vl close to Mr. Hood, and shoot
liim t]iroup;h the head. He represented to his companions
that the deceased had killed himself. On examination of
the body, it was found that the shot had entered the back
part of the head and passed out at the forehead, and that
the muzzle of the gun had been applied so close as to set
fire to the nifj;htcap behind. Micuel protested his inno-
cence of the crime, and Hepburn and Dr. Eichardson
dared not openly to evince their suspicion of his jjjuilt.

Next day. Dr. Eichardson deteraiined on goin^- straiijht
to the Fort. They sinijcd the hair off a part of the buliiUo
robe that belon^ecl to tlieir ill-fated companion, and boiled
and ate it. In the course of their march, Michel alarmed
them much by his pjestures and conduct, was constantly
mutterinf? to himself, expressed an unwillinp^ness to e;o
to the Fort, and tried to persuade them to go south-
■ward to the woods, where he said he could maintain
]iimsclf all the winter by killing deer. " In consequence of
this behaviour, and the expression of his countenance, I
requested him (says Eichardson) to leave us, and to go to
the southward by himself. This proposal increased his ill-
natun' ; he threw out some obscure hints of freeing him-
self from all restraint on the morrow ; and I overheard
him muttering threats against Hej^burn, whom he openly
accused of having told storicii against him. He also, for
the first time, assumed such a tone of superiority in
addressing me, as evinced that he considered us to be
completely in his power ; and he gave vent to several ex-
pressions of hatred towards the white people, some of
whom, he said, had killed and eaten his uncle and two of
his relations. In short, taking every circumstance of his
conduct into consideration, I came to the conclusion that
he would attempt to destroy us on the first opportunity
that ofi'ered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doin^
BO from his ignorance of his wav to the Fort, but that he
would never snller us to go thither in company with him.
Hepburn and I w ere not in a condition to resist even aa

franklin's first land KXPEDITION*.

'd Michel
•:iv(? thorn
next (Iny,
1 liuircred

tiehnnlson
ivinij: ^Ir.
rwuiff with
)d. While
is took the
and shoot
onipanions
linuticn of
d the back
1, and that
ie as to set
[ his inno-
liehardson
guilt.

if>- straiiiht
the buliiUo
and boiled
el alarmed
constantly
ess to ff,o
go south-
maintain
equenee of
tenance, I
|id to go to
led his ill-
einir him-
verheard
he openly
o also, for *
riority in
us to be
everal ex-
some of
d two of
ce of his
sion that
iportunity
cm doing
,t that he
ftith him.
t even au

open attack, nor i-ould we by any tlevice eseapi- I'lMni liini

our united strength was far inferior to his; ami. b'sido

his gun. he was armed with two pistols, an Indian bayi>uet,
and a kiiil'e.

*• In tlie afternoon, coming to a rock on which there was
s-mu' (rijje de roclw, he halted, and said lie would gatiier it
whilst we went on, and that he would soon overtake us.

'• ll('|)burn and I were now left together for the first time
since Mr. llood'j* death, and h»' aetjuaintedmo witii several
■material circumstances, which lu' had observed of Michel's
Uehnviour, and which eonlinned me in the o|)inion that
I'lere was no safety for us except in his death, and he
• Uercd to be the instrument of it. I determined, how-
ever, as I was thoroughly convinced of the necessity of
such a dreadful act, t;) take the whole responsihilit}' upon
myself; and immediately upon Michel's coming uj), I put
mi end to his life by shooting him through the head with
V. pistol. Had my own life alone been threatened (observes
b'ii'hardson, in conclusion), I would not have purchaset it
by such a measure, but 1 considered myself as entnusicd
riso with the protec tion of Hepburn's, a man who, by his
liumane attentions juul devotednesa, had so endeared
iiimself to me, that I felt more anxiety for his safety thau
for my own.

" Michel had gatiiered no trij^' da roche, and it was evi-
dent to us that he had halted for the purpose of putting
his cun in order with the intention of attacking us — perhaps
u liil>t we were in the act of encamping."

Persevering onward in their journey as well as the snow-
storms and their feeble limbs would permit, they saw several
herds of deer, but Hepburn, who used to be a good marks-
man, was now unable to hold the gun straight. Following
the track of a wolverine which had been dragging something,
iie however found the spine of a deer which it had dropped.
It was clean picked, and at least one season old, but they
extracted the spinal marrow from it.

A species oi cornicularia, a kind of lichen, was also met
with, that was found good to eat when moisteneJ r^md
toasted over the lire. They had still some piecj of
shiged bulFalo-hide remaining, and Hepburn, on one
occasion, killed a partridge, after firing several times at a
liock. About dusk of the 2l)tli they reached tlie i'ort.

" Upon entering the desolate dwelling, we h-xd the satis-
faction of embracing Captain Franklin, but no v. ords can
convey an idea of the filth and wretcl'edness that met our
eyes on looking around. Our own misery had stoL'niipoif
HB hj degrees, and we were accustomed to the contempla-

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

•maciatcd figures ; l)ut
eye-balls, and sepulcLrr

ghastly
countenances, dilated eye-balls, and sepulchral voices of
Captain Franklin and tliose with him were more than we
could at first bear."

Thus ends the narrative of llichardson's journey.

To resume the detail of proceedings at the Fort. On
the 1st of November two of the Canadians, Peltier and
Samandre, died from sheer exhaustion.

On the 7th of November they were relieved from their
privations and suflferings by the arrival of three Indians,
bringing a supply of dried meat, some fat, and a few
tongues, which had been sent off by Back witli all haste
from Akaitcho's encampment on the 5th. These Indians
nursed and attended them with the greatest care, cleansed
the house, collected fire-wood, and studied everv means
for their general comfort. Their sufferings were now at an
end. On the 26th of November they arrived at the
encampment of the Indian chief, Akaitcho. On the Gtli
of December, Belanger and another Canadian arrived,
bringing further supplies, and letters from England, from
Mr. Back, and their former companion, Mr. Wentzel.

The despatches from England announced the successful
termination of Captain Parry's voyage, and the promotion
of Captain Franklin, Mr. Back, and of poor Mr. Hood.

On the 18th they reached the Hudson's Bay Company's
establishment at jMoose Deer Island, where they joined
their friend Mr. Back. They remained at Fort Chipewyan
until June of the following year.

It is now necessarv to relate the story of IVEr. Back's
journey, which, like the rest, is a sad tale of suflering and
privation.

Having been directed on the 4th of October, 1S21, to
proceed with St. Germain, Belanger, and Beauparlant to
Fort Enterprise, in the hopes of obtaining relief for the
party, he set out. Up to the 7th they met with a little
tripe (h- )'u(-Ji(\ but this fiiiling them they were compelled
to satisfy, or rather allay, the cravings of hunger, by eating
a gun-cover and a pair of old shoes. The grievous dis-
appointment experienced on arriving at the ]i->use, and
finding it a deserted ruin, cannot be told.

'•Without the assistance of the Indians, bereft of every
resource, we felt ourselves (says Mr. Back) reduced to
the most miserable state, which was rendered still worse
from the recollection that our friends in the rear were as
miserable as ourselves. For the moment, however,
hunger ]irevailed, and each began to gnaw the scraps of
putrid and frozen meat and skin that were lying anout,
without waiting to prepare them," A fii'e was, however,

FRANKLIN S FIRST LAND EXPEDITION.

ghastly
voices of
: thrill wc

ley.

^)rt. On
[?ltier ari.l

rom their
3 Indiaus,
lid a few

1 all haste

Indians
, t'loansed
n'v means
now at an
^d at the

1 the Gth
I arrived,
and. from
ntzel.
suceessfiil
promotion
i. Hood.

ompany's
n' ioined
lipowyau

[r. Dack's
ering and

1S21, to

•arlant to
f for the
]i a little
ompelk'd
by eatini;
vous dis-
»use, and

deer

I
I

afterTvnrds made, and the neck and bones of a
found in the house were boiled and devoured.

After resting a day at the house. Mr. Back pushed on
with his companions in search of the Indians, leaving a
note for Captain Franklin, informing him if he failed in
meeting with the Indians, he intended to push on for the
first trading establishment — distant about 130 miles — and
send us succour from thence. On the 11th he set out on
the journey, a fovr old skins having been first collected to
serve as food.

On the 13th and 14th of October they had nothing what-
ever to eat. Belanger was sent ofi' with a note to Franklin.
On the 15t]i they were fortunate enough to fall in with a
partridge, the bones of which were eaten, and the remain-
der reserved for bait to fish with. Enough in'pe de roehc
was. however, gatliered to make a meal. Bi'auparlant
y\r\\\ lingered behind, worn out by extreme ^^eakness. On
the 17th a number of crows, perched on some high pines,
led them to believe that some carrion was near ; and
on searching, several heads of deer, half buried in the
snow and ice, MJthout eyes or tongues, were found. An
expression of '* Oh, merciful God, mc are saved," broke
from them both, and with feelings m.ore easily imagined
than described, they shook hands, not knowing what to
say for joy.

St. Cxermain was sent back to bring up Beauparlant,
for whose safety Back became very anxious, but he found
the poor fellow frozen to death.

Tlie night of the 17th was cold and clear, but they
could get no sleep. " From the pains of having eaten,
we suffered (observes Back) the most excruciating tor-
ments, though I in particular did not eat a quarter of
what would have satisfied me ; it might have been from
having eaten a quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the legs of
deer, which neither of us could avoid doing, so great was
our hunger."

On the following day Belanger returned famishing with
hunger, and told of the pitiable state of Franklin and his
reduced party. Back, both this day and the next, tried to
urge on his companions towarcls the object of their
journey, but he could not conquer their stubborn deter-
minations. They said they were unable to proceed from
weakness; knew not the way; that Back wanted to expose
them again to death, and in fact loitered gi'eedily aoout
the remnants of the deer till the end of th" month. '* It
was not without the greatest difliculty that I coidd restrain
the men from eatini?, every scrap they found : though they

PIIOGRESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERY.

were vroll awaro of the necessity there was of heing eco-
nomical iu our present situation, and to save whatever
they could for our journey, yet they could not resist the
temptation; and whenever my back was turned they seldom
failed to snatch at the nearest piece to them, whether cooked
or raw. Havinjy collected with great care, and by self-
denial, two small packets of dried meat or sinews sufficient
(for men who knew what it was to fast) to last for eijj^ht
days, at the rate of one indifferent meal per day, they set
out on the 30th. On the 3rd of ^November they came on
the track of Indians, and soon reached the tents of
Akaitcho and his followers, when food was obtained, and
assistance sent off to Franklin.

In July they reached York Factory, from whence they
had startedthree years before, and thus terminated a journey
of 5550 miles, durinjr a\ hich human courage and patience
were exposed to trials such as few can bear with fortitude,
unless, as is seen in Franklin's interesting narrative, arising
out of reliance on the ever-sustaining care of an Almightv
Providence.

Parry's First Voyage, ISIO— 1820.

The Admiralty having determined to continue the pro-
gress of discovery in the Arctic seas, Lieut. AV. E. Parry,
who had been second in command under Capt. Eoss, in
the voyage of the previous year, was selected to takr
charge of a new expedition, consisting of the JI(rJ(f ;uvJ
G-rijjer. The chief object of this voyage was to pursue
tlie survey of Lancaster Sound, and decide on tlie proba-
bility of a north-west passage in tliat direction; failing in
which. Smith's and Jones's Sounds were to be explored,
"with the same purpose in view.

The respective officers appointed to the ships, were—

Ilccla, 375 tons :

Lieut, and Commander — "\Y. E. Parry.

Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechey.

Captain — 1*]. Sabine, R.A., Astronomer.

Purser — W. H. Hooper.

Surgeon — John Edwards.

Assistant-Surgeon — Alexander Fisher.

Midshipmen — James CI rke Ross, J. JN'ias, W. J. Dcaly,

Charles Palmer, John Bushnan.
Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master ; G. Crawfiu'd,

mate.
41 Petty Officers, Seamen, kc.

Total complement, 58, .

being eco-
whatever
b resist the
liey seldom
her cooked
id by self-
rs sufficient
jt for ei<z:lit
ly, they set
jy came on
e tents of
tained, and

hence they
jdajomniey
id patience
li fortitude,
tive, arising
a Abnighty

uc the pro-

E. Parry.

pt. lloss, iv

cd to takr

Jlccla mvJ

to pursue

tlie probi'-

; failing iu

' explored

I, were—

PARRYS FIRST VOYAGE.

[. J. Dcaly,
Crawfiu'd,

Griper, ISO tons :

Lieut, and Comninnder — Matthew Liddon.

I^i'utonant — II. V. Iloppner,

As.ristant-Surgeon — C. J. BeverlcT.

]\ii<lshipmen— A. Eoid, A. M. Sla-iic, W. N. Griffiths.

Greenland Pilots— George Fyfe, master; A. Elder,

mate.
28 Petty Officers, Seamen, Lc.

Total complement, 36.

The ships "were raised upon, strengthened, and •vrell
found in stores and provisions for two years. On the
11th of May, 1819, they got away from the Thames, and
after a fair passage fell in with a considerable quantity oi"
ice in the middle of Davis Straits about the 20th of June;
it consisted chiefly of fragments of icebergs, on the out-
skirts of the glaciers that form along the shore. After a
tedious passage through the floes of ice, effected chiefly by
braving and warping, thoy arrived at Possession Bay on
the morning of the 31st of July, being just a month earlier
than they were here on the previous year. As many as fifty
whales were seen here in tlu^ course of a few hours. On
lauding, they were not a little astonished to find their own
footprints of the previous year still distincily visible in
the snow. During an excursion cf three or four miles into
the interior, a fox, a raven, several ring-plovers and snow-
buntings, were seen, as also a bee, from which it may be
inferred thnt honey is to be procured even in these wild
regions. Vegetation flourishes remarkably well here, cou-
Bidering the high latitude, for wherever there was moisture
tufis and various ground plants grew in considerable
uhundanee.

Proceeding on from hence into the Sound, they verified
the opinion which had previously been entertained by
many of the olRcers, that the Crol'er MounUxins had no
existence, lor on the 4.tli of August the ships were in
long. 80° 5G' AY., three degrees to the westward of where
land had been laid down by Ross in the previous year.
The strait was named after Sir John Barrow, and was
found ; > be pretty clear; but on reaching Leopold Island,
the ice extended in a compact body to the north, through
which it was impossible to penetrate. Eather than remain
inactive, waiting for the dissolution of the ice. Parry
det^enuined to try what could be done by shaping his
course lo the southward, through the magnificent inle*.
now named Eegent Lilct. About the 0th of August, in

£2

rnOGKEJS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

,1 ' Wi

I!!

consequence of the local attraction, the ordinarv com-
passes became useless from their great variation, and tlio
binnacles were removed from the deck to the carpenter's
store-room as useless lumber, the azimuth compassos
alone remaininpf ; and these became so slufj^frish in their
motions, that they required to bo very nicely IcvclUvl,
and frequently tapped before the card traversed. The
local attraction was very great, and a mass of iron-sioiie
found on shore attracted the magnet powerfully. The
ships proceeded 120 miles from the entrance.

On the 8th of August, in lat. 12P 13' N., and lonnr.
00° 29' W., (his extreme point of view Parry named Capo
Kater), the Hccla came to a compact barrier of ice extend-
ing across the inlet, which rendered one of two alternatives
necessary, either to remain here until an opening took
place, or to return again to the northward. The latter
course was determined on. Making, therefore, for the
northern shore of Barrow's Strait, on the 20th a narrow
channel was discovered between the ice and the land. On the
22nd, proceeding due west, after passing several bays and
headlands, they noticed two large openings or passages,
the first of which, more than eight leagues in width, he
named Wellington Channel. To various capes, inlets, and
groups of islands passed. Parry assigned the names (A
Hotham. Barlow, Cornwallis, Bowen, Byara Martin,
Griflith, Lowther, Bathurst, &c. On the 28th a boat w:is
sent on shore at Byam Martin Island with Capt. Sabine,
Mr. J. C. Ross, and the surgeons, to make obsen'ation?,
and collect specimens of natural history. The vegetation
was rather luxuriant for these regions; moss in particular
grew in abundance in the moist valleys and along the
banks of the streams that flowed from the hills. The
ruins of six Esquimaux huts were observed. Tracks of
rein-deer, bears, and musk oxen were noticed, and the
skeletons, skulls, and horns of some of these animals were
found.

On the Ist of September, they discovered the large anJ
fine island, to whicli Parry has given the name of ^Melville
Island after the First Lord of the Admiralty of that day.
On the following day, two boats with a party of oillcers
were despatched to examine its shores. Some rein-deor
and musk oxen were seen on landing, but being startleJ
by the sight of a dog, it was found impossible to get near
them. There seemed here to be a great quantity of tlie
animal tribe, for the tracks of bears, oxen, and deer were
numerous, and the horns, skin, and skulls were also Ibuud.

parry's first voyage.

also louud. ^

TUo burrows of foxes and fiokl-mico wore obsorrod :
eovoral ptnrniifjaii wore shot, and Hocks of snow-buntitii;,
pooso. and ducks, were roticcd, probably comnuMuiiiir
thf^ir migration to a milder climate. AIodjl^ the boacli
tli(>ro was an ininK use number of small shrimps, and
rar ous kinds of slit-ils.

On thf 4th of Septombor, Parry had the satisfaction of
rro^sini^ the meridian of 110^ A\ . in the latitude of 71^
41 20', by whirli the expedition became entitled to tlio
rewai'd of oOOr>A. jjranted by an order in Council upon the
Act .3"^ Geo. III., cap. 20,"^ entitled "An Act for more
offectually discovering^ the lonj^itude at sea, and encou-
rijiuir attempts to iind a northern passajirc between the
A*. i?ific and Vacific Oceans, and to approach the North
Pole." This fact was not announced to the crews until
tlie foUowmg day; to celebrate the event they pave to
r bold cape of the island then in siirht the name of
Pounty Cape ; and so anxious were they now to ])ress i'or-
ward.tiuit they bepan to calculate the time when they shr-uld
reach the longitude of 130^ \V., the second place specilied
hr tlie order in Coiuicil for reward. On the afternoon of
t'le oth, the compactness of the ice stt>pped them, and
tlierttbre, for the lirst time since leaving: Ens:land, the
anchor was let po. and that in 110" AV. longitude.

A lioat was sent on shore on the Oth to procure turf or
]>eat f<u' fuel, and. strangely enough, some small pieces of
t./'.eral)ly pood coal were found in various places scattered
over the surface. A party of olficers that went on shore
cii the 8th killed several prouse ou the island, and a
while hare ; a fox", some Held mice, several snow-bunt in<j. a
{.•.:(. \vy owl, and four nmsk oxen were seen. Ducks, in
binall llocks, were seen alonp the shore, as well as several
plaucous pulls and tern ; and a solitary seal was observed.

As thi^ ships were coastiup alonp on the 7th, two herds
of musk oxen were seen prazinp, at the distance oi about
tliree-quartors of a mill* from tlie beach: one herd con-
sisted of nine, an(^ the other of live of these cattle. Thev
liiid also a distant »iew of two rein-deer.

The averape weipiit of tlie hares here is about eipht
pounds. Mr. Fisher tlie surpcon, from whose luterestiup
j«'iu*!ial I quote, states that it is very evident that tiiis
ijlaud must be freqiu'nt<Hl, if not constantly udiabittd, hy
inu<k oxen in preat numbers, tor their bones and horns
pre found scattered about in all directi<uis, and the preatest
y.u'i t>f tlie carcase of one was discovered on one occasii.m.
Ihe skulls of two carnivorous animals, a wolf and a lynx,

rUOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

vrerc aLso picked up hero. A party sent to gather coals
Lrouj^lit on board about half a bushel — all they eould
obtain.

On the morning of the 10th, Mr. George Fyfe, the master
pilot, with a party of six men belonging to the Griper,
landed with a view of making an exploring trip of soma
fifteen or twenty miles into the interior. They only took
provisions for a day with them. Great uneasiness was
ielt that they did not return ; and when two days elapsed,
fears began to be entertained for their safety, and it waa
thought they must have lost their way.

Messrs. Eeid (midshipman), Beverley (assistant-sur-
geon), and Wakeham (clerk), volunteered to go in search
of their missing messmates, but themselves lost their
jray; guided by the rockets, fires, and lights exhibiiod,
they returned by ten at night, almost exhausted with cold
and fatigue, but without intelligence of their friends.
Four relief parties were therefore organized, and sent out
on the morning of the 13th to prosecute the search, and
one of them fell in with and brought back four of the w?\n-
derers, and another the remaining three before nightfall.

The feet of most of them were much frost-bitten, and
they were all wearied and worn out with their wanderings.
It appears they had lost their way the evening of the day
they went out. With regard to food, they were by no
means badly off, for they managed to kill as many grouse
as they could eat.

They found fertile valleys and level plains in the interior,
abounding with grass and moss ; also a lake of fresh water,
about two miles long by one broad, in which were several
species of trout, -.'hey saw several herds of rein-deer on
the plains, and two elk ; also many hares, but no musk
oxen. kSome of those, however, who had been in search
of the stray party, noticed herds of these cattle.

The winter now began to set in, and the packed ice waa
80 thick, that fears were entertained of being locked up iu
an exposed position on the coast ; it was, therefore, thought
most prudent to put back, and endeavour to rewjh the
harbour which had been passed some days before. The
vessels now got seriously buffeted among the fioes and
hummocks of ice. The Griper was forced ajjround on the
beach, and for some time was in a very critical position.
Lieutenant Liddon having been confined to his cabin by
a rheumatic complaint, was pressed at this juncture by
Commander Parry to allow himself to be removed to the
Mecla, but he nobly refused, stating that he should be the

atlier coals
they eoulJ.

, tlio master
the Griper^
rip of 8omo
y only took
asiues3 was
lya ehipscd,
, and it waa

3si3taiit-sur-
To in search
J lost their
:3 exhibiied,
ad with cold
Lcir friends,
and sent out
search, and
p of the Tvan-
)re ni<;"hti'all.
it-bitten, and

wanderings.
|T of the day

were by no
many grouse

he interior,
"resh water,
were several
ein-deer on
ut no musk
m in search
e.

iked ice was
ocked up in
ore, thouiiiht
o rcwjh the
fore. The
Hoes and
ound on the
"A posiliou.
liis cabin )iy
uncture by
ived to the
iGuld be the

PAKRYS FIRST VOYAGE.

last to leave the ship, and continued giving orders. Tho
Ijcadi being sand, the Griper was got ofFwitliout injury.

On the 2:3rd of September they anchored off the mouth
of the harbour, and the thermometer now fell to 1°. The
crew were set to work to cut a channel through the ice to
the shore, and in the course of three days, a canal, two and a
half miles in length, was completed, through which the vessel
was tracked. The ice was eight or nine inches thick. An.
extra allowance of preserved meat was served out to the
men, hi consideration of their hard labour. The vessels
were unrigged, and everything made snug and secure for
passing the winter. Captain Parry gave the name of the
North Georgian Islands to this group, after his Majesty,
King George III., but this has since been changed to the
Parry Islands.

Two reindeer were killed on tho 1st of October, and
several white bears were seen. On the 6th a deer was
killed, which weighed 170 pounds. Seven were seen on
the lOlh, one of which was killed, and another severely-
wounded. Following after this animal, night overtook
^several of the sportsmen, and the usual signals of rockets,
lights, &c. were exhibited, to guide them back. One, John
Pearson, a marine, had his hands so frost-bitten that he
was obliged, on the 2nd of November, to have the four
lingers of his left hand amputated. A wolf and four rein-
deer were seen on the 14th. A herd of fifteen deer were
seen on the 15th ; but those who saw them could not bring
down any, as their fowling-pieces missed fire, from the
moistiu'e freezing on the locks. On the 17th and 18th
herds of eleven and twenty respectively, were seen, and a
small one was shot. A fox was caught on the 29th, which
is described as equally cunning with his brethren of the
temperate regions.

To make the long winter pass as cheerfidly ac possible,
plays were acted, a school established, and a newspaper
set on foot, certainly the first periodical publication that
had ever issued from the Arctic regions. The title of this
joui'nal, the editorial duties of which were undertaken by
Captain Sabine, was " The Winter Chronicle, or New
Georgia Gazette." The first number appeared on the 1st
of November.

On the evening of the 5th of November the farce of
*' Miss in her Teens" was brought out, to the great
amusement of the ships' companies, and, considering tho
local dilhculties and disadvantages under which the per-
formers laboured, their first essay, according to the officers'

rjCj

rnoGUESs of auctic discoveuy.

■ !

report, did tliem infinite credit. Two liotir.^ were speiit
very happily iu their theatre on the quarter-deck, notwith-
staudinj; tlie thermometer outside the ship stood at zero,
and Avitliin as low as the tVeezinj; point, except close to
the stoves, where it was a little hi;;her. Another play wa.«
performed on the 24th, and so on every fortnight. The
men were employed during the day in banking up the
Bhips with snow.

On the 'S.'vd of December, the officers performed " The
Mayor of Garratt," which was followed bv an after-piece,
written by Captain Parry, entitled tlie " ]Sorth-West Pas-
Bage, or the Voyage Finished." The sun having long
since departed, the twilijrht at noon was so clear that
books in the smallest print could be distinctly read.

On the Gth of January, the farce of " Bon Ton" was
perfoniied, with the thermometer at 27^ below zero. The
cold became more and more intense. On the 12th it was
51° below zero, in the open air; brandy froze to the
consistency of honey ; when tasted in this state it left
a smarting on tlie tongue. The greatest cold expc'rienced
was on the 14tli January, when the thermometer fell to
54° below zero. On the 3rd of February, the sun Avas first
visible above the horizon, after eighty-four days' absence.
It was seen from the maintop of the ships, a height of
about fifty-one feet above the sea.

On the forenoon of the 21.th a fire broke out at the
storehouse, which was used as an observatory. All
hands proceeded to the spot to endeavour to subdue the
flames, but having only snow to throw on it, and the mats
with which the interior was lined being very dry, it was
found impossil)le to extinguish it. The snow, however,
covered the astronomical instruments and secured them
from the fire, and when the roof had been pulled down
the fire had burned itself out. Considerable as the fire
was, its influence or heat extended but a very short
distance, for several of the officers and men were
frost-bitten, and confined from their efforts for several
weeks. John Smith, of the Artillery, who was Captain.
Sabine's servant, and who, together with Sergeant
Martin, happened to be in the house at the time the fire
broke out, suflered much more severely. In their anxiety
to save the dipping needle, which was standing close to
the stove, and of which they knew the value, they imme-
diately ran out with it ; and Smith not having time to put
on his gloves, had his fingers in half an hoursobenimibed,
and the animation so completely suspended, that on hi^^
being taken on board ]-j Mr. Edward?*, and having his

PAmiYS FIRST VOYAGE.

hanclri plunjTcd into n l)asiu of cold xvatcr, tlie surface of
till- water was immediately frozen by the iutense cold
tlius sudderdy communicated to it ; and notwith.stnndini>
tlie most humane and unremittiu"^ attention paid him
by the medical gentlemen, it was found necessary, some
time after, to resort to the amputation of a part of four
fiuirors on one hand, and three on the other.

Piirry adds, " the appearance which oui* faces presented
at the m'c was a curious one ; almost every nose and cheek
havinjj: become quite white with frost bites, in five minutes
afiev beinjT exposed to the weather, so that it Avas deemed
necessary for the medical «:fentlemen, together with some
others appointed to assist thera, to go constantly round
while the men were working at the fire, and to rub witli
fcnow the parts aflected, in order to restore animation."

Tlio weather got considerably milder in March ; on the
Cth the thermometer got up to zero for the first time since
Ihe 17th of December. The observatory house on shore
was now rebuilt.

The vapour, which had been in a solid state on the
ship's sides, now thawed below, and the crew, scraping
ofl' the coating of ice, removed on the 8th of March
above a hundred bucVetsfuU each, containing from live to
six gallons, which had accumulated in less than a month,
occasioned principallj' from the men's breath, and the
steam of victuals at meals.

The scurvy now broke out among ihe crew, and prompt
measures were taken to remedy it. Captain Parry took
great pains to raise mustard and cress in his cabin for the
men's use.

On the 30th of April the thermometer stood at the
freezing point, which it had not done since the 12th of
September last. On the 1st of May the sun was seen at
miJni<;ht for the lirst time that season.

A survey was now taken of the provisions, fuel, and
stores ; much of the lemon juice was found destroyed
from the bursting of the bottles by the frost. Having
been only victualled for two years, and half that period
having expired, Captain Parry, as a matter of prudence,
reduced all hands to two-tliirds allowance of all sorts of
provisions, except meat and sugar.

The crew were now set to work in cutting away the ice
round the ships : the average thickness was found to be
seven feet. Many of the men who had been out on
excursions began to sufler much from snow lilindness.
The sonsation when first experienced, is described as like
that felt/ wlieu dust or sand gets into the e\es. They

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVEUY.

were, however, cured iu the course of two or three clays
by keepin«if the ov('3 covered, and bathiuij them oocasion-
ailv with suj^ar of k'ad, or some other eooiiiii^ lotion.

To prevent the recurrence of the complaint, the men
were ordered to wear a piece of crape or some substituto
for it over the eyes.

Tiie channel round the ships was completed bv tho 17th
of May, and they rose nearly two feet, ha\ inpf been kept
down by tho pressure of tho ice round them, although
lightened during; tho winter by the consumption of food
and fuel. On tho 2tth they were astonislied by two
showers of rain, a most extraordinary phenomenon in
these rcfjions. Symptoms of scurvy ajjain appeared
amonpr the crew ; one of tlio seamen who had been
recently cured, having imprudently been in the habit
of eatinjj the fat 8kimrain<;3, or " slush," in which salt
meat had been boiled, and which was served out for their
lamps. As the hills in many places now became exposed
and vesfctation commenced, two or three pieces of ground
were dupf up and sown with seeds of radishes, onions,
and other vegetables. Captain Parry determined before
leaving to make an excursion across the island for tho
purpose of examining its size, boundaries, productions,
&c. Accordingly on the 1st of June an expedition was
organized, consisting of the commander. Captain Sabine,
-Mr. Fisher, the assistant-surgeon, Mr. John Nias, mid-
shipman of tho Hecla, and Mr. Ileid, midshipman of tho
Griper, with two sergeants, and live seamen and marines.
Three weeks' provisions were taken, which together with
two tents, wood for fuel, and other articles, weighing in
all about 800 lbs., was drawn on a cart prepared for tho
purpose bv the men.

Each ot the officers carried a knapsack with his own
private baggage, weighing from 18 to 24 lbs., also his
gun and ammunition. The party started in h\^\\ glee,
under three hearty cheers from their comrades, sixteen of
whom accompanied them for five miles, carrying their
knapsacks and drawing the cart for them.

They travelled by night, taking rest by day, as it was
found to be warmer for sleep, and they hacf only a covering
of a single blanket each, besides the clothes they had on.

On the 2nd they came to a small lake, about half a mile
long, and met with eider ducks and ptarmigan ; seven,
of tlie latter were shot. From the top of a range of hills
at M-hieh they now arrived, they could see the masts of the
ships in "Winter Harbour with the naked eye, at about

PAIIUY's FinST VOYAGE.

liroo clays
oc'cusion-

ioti.
tlio men

iuljstituto

' tiio irth

locu kopt

althouijli

n of food

by two

mcnou in

appeared

lad been

the luibifc

liich salt

fur their

exposed

>f ground

i, ouions,

[?d before

cl for tlio

>ductiong,

tioii was

Sabine,

ias, mid-

in of tlio

marines.

her with

;hing in

for tke

Ill's own
also his
?b slee,
xtcen of
ig tlicir

IS it was
joveriiii^
lad on.
f a mile
seven
of hills
tsof the
it about

ton or eleven miliM distant. A vast plain was also seen
CxtendiiiLT t«» the iinrtliwMrd and westward.

The p.irty breakfasted en biseuit a:ul a pint of :;ruel
caoli, made <>f salep |)"wd» r, whieh was found to be a very
palatable diet. l{e:ndeer ^\ith their fawuH were mot
with.

They derived fjreat assistanee in drairf^in^ their eart by
riiiirinl' iijxm it one of the tent blankets as a sail, a truly
nautieal eiintrivjinee, and the winil ravourini; them, they
made irreat pr<><j;res8 in this way. Captain Sabine bein^
tak.n ill with a bowel eomjtiaint, had to he conveyed
0!i this novel sail earria;;e. They, h(>\\(>ver, Inul sumo
UjLdv ravines to pass, the erossinirs of whieh were very
teilious and troublesome. On the 7th the party eamo to a
hw'j^v bay, which was named after their hhi[)S. lleela and
Griper i3ay. The blue iee was cut throuj^h by hard work
with l)<>ardin{]^ pikes, the only instruments they had, and
a 11 erdi^tjintf fourteen anda half feet the water rushed up ; it
was not very salt, but sullieient to satisi'y them that it was
the oeean. An island seen in the distauee was named after
Captain Sabine : some of the various points and eaixs
were also named after others of the parly, Althou;,di tliis
shore was found blocked up with such heavy ice, there
appear to be times when there is oi>en water here, for
a ])ieco of fir wood seven and a half feet long, and about
the thickness of a man's arm, was fomid about eighty
yards inland from the hummocks of the beach, and about
tliirty feet above the level of the sea. Before leaving
the shore, a monument of stones tv.-elve feet high was
erected, in which were deposited, in a tin cylinder, an
account of their proceedings, a few coins, and several
naval buttons. The expedition now turned back, shaping
its course in a more westerly direction, towards some
high blue hills, which had long been in sight. On many
days several ptarmigans were shot. The horns and tracks
of deer were very immerous.

On the 11th they came in sight of a deep gulf, to which.
Lieutenant Liddon's name was given; the two capes Jit
its entrance being called after Beechey and Iloppncr. In
the centre was an island about three-quarters of a mile in
length, rising abruptly to the height of 700 feet. Tho
shores of the gulf were very rugged and pre(i[)itaiit, and
in descending a steep hill, the axle-tree of their cart
broke, and they had to leave it behind, taking tho body
with them, however, for fuel. The wheels, which wero
left on the spot, may astonish gome future adventurer

pnor.nF.ss of arctic discovery.

■who (lisL'Ovors thoni. The stores, &i'., wero divided an;on;^
the ollicors nnd men.

.M.'ikini; their way on the ire in the firiilf, tlie i.^laud in
the centre was explored, and named after Mr. Hooper, the
purser of the llccla. It was found to be of sandstone, uiu^
vory barren, risin«f perpendieularly from the sea on th*.-
"West side. Four fat jjeese were killed here, and a ureal
many animals were seen around the jjulf ; some attention
beiniif paid to examininj; its shores. Sic, ix line open
valley was discovered, and the tracks of oxen ami deer
■were very numerous ; the ])astura*;o appeared to be' ex-
eellent.

On the ll{th, a few ptarmiujan and a golden plover were
killed. No less than thirteen deer in one here! were seen,
and a musk ox for the first time this season.

The remains of six Esmiimaux Iiuts were discovered
about 3<)0 yards from the beach. Vegetation now boira:'.
to nourish, the sorrel was found far advanced, and a
species of saxifrajje was met viitli in blossom. They
reached the ships on the eveninij of the 15th, af.or a
journc}' of about 180 miles.

The ships' crews, during their absence, had been occu-
pied in jufctting ballast in and re-stowiniif the hold.

Shooting parties were now sent out in various direction?
to procure game. Dr. Fisher gives an interesting ace nmt
of his ten days' excursion with a couple of men. The deci-
wore not so numerous as they expected to Huil ihcm.
About thirty were seen, of which his party killed l)i:t
two, which were very lean, weighing only, when skinue.l
and cleaned, 50 to 60 lbs. A couple of wolves were seen, an 1
some foxes, with a great many hares, four of which were
killed, weighing from 7 to 8 lbs. The aquatic bird:? seen
were — brent geese, king ducks, long-tailed ducks, and arctic
and glaucous gulls. The land birds were ptarmigans,
plovers, sanderlings, and snow buntings. The geese were
pretty numerous for the first few days, but got wild and
wary on being disturbed, keeping in the middle of lakes out
of gun-shot. About a dozen were, however, killed, and lif-
teen ptannigans. These birds are represented to he so
stupid that all seen may be shot. Dr. Fislier was surprised
on his return on the 29th of June, after his ten days'
absence, to find how much vegetation had advan,»ed ;
the land being now completely clear of snow, was covered
with the purple-coloured saxifrage in blossom, with mosses,
and witli sorrel, and the grass was two to three inches ionii.
The men were sent out twice a week to collect the sorrel,
and in a few minutes enough could be procured to make a

PARUY •< FIKST VOYAliE.

aihl In
10 r. the

10, Ui)J

on tliv
;culion

' OUL'U

il Joor
by.' ex-

»r won?
e seen,

covered

,- l)oi:a!"'.

and a

Tlioy

a ft or u

■u oceu-

iiocnmt
10 deor
ihom.
>d but
KimioJ
en. and
were
Is soen
I arotio
iiijiaus,
e were
ild and

:e>

out
I tif-
bo so
Ipr

ISOi

days'

ineod ;

hvored

tosses.

iouii.

sorrol,

lake a

salad for dinner. After bein^ mixed with vine^Mr ii was
remilarly served out to the men. The Knj^lish jjrarden
.«('t'('> that had l)een sown ijot on but slowly, and did not
yield any })roduee in time to be used.

On the 31st c>f June AVni. Scott, a boatswain's mate,
w!io had been atHicteil with seurvy, diarrhcva. &e.. died,
ami was l)urieil on the 'Jnd ot July — a slab of sandstone
licnriui; an inseriptiou, carved by Dr. Fisher, beinp^ erected
over his i^rave.

From ((bservations made on the tide (hiring two months,
it nppears that the fjreatcst rise and fall here is four feet four
inches. A larije pile of stones was erected ou the 1 1th of
Jidy. upon the most conspicuous hill, containintr the usunl
ui'iices. coins, t<:c.. and on a lar^je stone an inscription was
left notifying the wintering of the ships here.

On the 1st of August the ships, which luid been pre-
viously waqied out, got clear of the harbour, and found
a channel, both eastward and westward, clear of ice, about
tliree or tour miles in breadth along the land.

On the fith they landed on the island, and in the course
of the night killed tourtecn hares and a number of glau-
cous gidls, which were found with their young on the top
of a precipitous insulated rock.

Ou the 9th the voyagers had an opportunity of observ-
ing an instance of the violent pressure that takes place
occasionallv by the collision of Leavy ice. *' Two pieces
(says Dr. iFisher) that happened to come in contact close
to us pressed so forcibly against one another that one of
them, although forty-two feet thick, and at least three
times that in length and breadth, was forced up on its edge
on the top of another piece of ice. But even this is
nothing wnen compared with the pressure that must have
existed to produce the effects that we see along the shore,
for, not only heaps of earth and stones several tons weight
are forced up, but hummocks of ice, from fifty to sixty feet
thick, are piled up on the beach. It is unnecessary to
remark that a ship, although fortified as well as wood and
iron could make her, would have but little chance of with-
standing such overwhelming force."

This day a musk ox was shot, which weighed more than
700 lbs. ; the carcass, when skinned and cleaned, yielding
421 lbs. of meat. The flesh did not taste so very strong of
musk as had been represented.

The ships made but slow progress, being still thickly
beset with floes of ice, 40 or 50 feet thick, and had to make
fast for security to hummocks of ice on the beach.

Oi\ the 15tn and 16th they were off the south-west

rKOGRi:>S OF AllCTIC DiscovnuY,

point of tlio isliuul, ]mt a siirvov of the lociliiy from the
precipitous clifl" of Capo ]>uii(las, prc.^oiitod llio saiuc
intcrininahlo barrier of ice as far ns the ovf could rcacli.
A boM hiiih roast was siirlited to (lio soutli-Nvest, to which
the name of Jiaiik's Land was fxiven.

Captain Parry states tbat on tiie 2Hrd the ships received
by far the lieaviest shocks they had experienced (birini;f the
Toya<je, and performed six miles of the most dilJicult navi-
gation lie h;id ever known anionji; ice.

Two musk bulls were shot on the 21th by parlies who
landed, out of a lierd of seven wliich were seen. They
were holder than the first one shot — wei^hinii: only about
*M'A) ll)s. From tlie number of skulls and skelet(»ns of these
aninuils met. wit!\, and their capabilities of cndurini; the
ri}iour of the climate, it seems prol)able tliat they do not
niiiifrate soulliward, luit winter on tliis island.

Attempts wt're still made to work to the eastward, but
on the 2-'th, from want of wind, and the closon'^ss of the
ice, the ships were obliired to luake fast ai^^jun, witliou'
liavinii: ijained above a mile after several houis labour. A
fresh bree/e sprin<>inir up on the *J(Uh opened a ])assaire
aloiii; shore, and the ships made sail to the eastward, ami
in the evening were off their old quarters in Winter M:\v-
bour. On the followinix evcniuix, ai'ter a iiue run, they
were off the east end of Melville island. Jjieut. Parry,
this day, atmoujiced to the oilieers and crew that afur due
consideration and consultation, it had been found useless
to prosecute their n's<'arches farther w<.stwa;d, and tlu'iv-
fore endeavours would be made in a more south rly dir'.-c-
tlon, failinix in which, the expedition would return to
ll^n<jfland. Ke;jent Inlet and the southern shores l-, 'ni^i'dly.
■were ft)und so blocked uj) with ice. that the return to
jMiLcland was on the i^oth of Aui,nist publicly ann«)unce(I.
This day, jNavy Jjoard and Admiralty Iidets were pas^^ed.
and on the 1st of Sejiteniber th.e vessels <rot clear of Ihir-
row Si rait, and reaeheil IJatlin'.s Bay on the oih. They
fell in with a whaler belonuinj; to ll\dl, from whom they
li-arnt the news of the d(>ath of Georu'e the Third and the
Duke of Kent, and that eleven vessels havini; been lost
in the ice last year, fears were entertained for their snfctv.
The Fricndshi}), another Hull whaler, inforiued tluMU that
in com])any with the Ti'nclove she had locked into Smith's
Sound that sunnner. The Aff\v<(./'/rr, of Aberdeen, ono
of the ships employed on the tbrtu'^t' voyaire of discovery
to these seas, had also entered liancasier Sound. After
touchint; at Clyde's Piver, where they met a <;ood-natured
tribe of Esijuimaux, the bhips made the best of their way

PAr.r.YS SKCOM) VOYACIC.

r.5

afTos.'? iho All.'Uitic. mid riftcr n .<onio\vliat lini«;foroiis p".?-
p:iLr»', C'oimuo'loiv l*aiTV laiulfMl nt Peterhead <mi tlie :iti;li
of October, and. nceoinnaiiiod by Captain JSubiiie aud Mr.
Ho(.»per, poslt'd to Loiiilon.

rARnTs Second Votaok, 1821— 1S23.

TiTTv experience uliieli Capf. Parry liad formed in liij:
previous vt^yay^e. led l)ini to entertain the 0)>inion tliat v,
c»>niniMnieatioi\ mi;;lit be found l)et^veen ]<e<iont Inlet
and Hoe's Welcome, or throuj^h HepulselJay. and thenc e to
the north-western shores. The tbllo\vin<xare his remarks :
** On an insjiection of the charts T tiiink it will also appear
pro1)al)lt' that a onniiunieation will one day bo found to
exist between this inlet (I'rince Keirent's) and Jlnd-
gon's Hay, either throuirh the brond and unexpli>re(1
t'liMniiel called ^'ir Thouias Koe's Welcome, «. • throuuh
lit-j)ulse 13av, which lias not yet been sati.'^facloriiy
cxtniiined. It is also probi'.])le that a channel will be iV'Und
to exist between the western land and tiie northern coast
of America." AL'Jjin. in another plac(>, he says, " Of the
existence of a ^north-West Passa;j[e to the Pacific it is now
Bcarcely possible to doubt, and from the success whirli
jUit'nded onr eljbrts in iSl'.f, aft<'r passing; throuijh Sir
Jam.'s r.Miicaster's Sound, Me were not unreasonal ie in
rniici)>atin<j; its complete .iccompli.-hmeiit. Put Un .eason
in which it is ]>ractir'able to navii:ate the Polar Seas does
not exceed seven ^^('el<s. From all that \\c observed it
8eems desirable that ships endeavouriiiiX to reach the
Pacilic Oci'an by this route should kerj) if possible en the
coast of America, and tin* lower in latitudi> that coast
may be l\)und. the movr favourable will it ])r(»ve f m' the
piirpise; hence Ciinibt rland Strait, Sir Thomas Koe's
A\ Clconu^, aiul 1'(>]mi1.-i' j!ay appear to be the points mo.-t
"Worthy of attention. I cannot then'fore but consider that
liny expedition (upupped by (ireat Hritain wilii liiis view
ouiiht to employ its ix'st enemies in attemptin*^ to ])ene-
trate from the east* rn coast of America al-MiiX its northern
Miore. In consequence of the partial success uhich has
liitherto attended our att(>mpt8, the whalers have already
exteiuled their views, and u new iield has bi'eii opened
for oiK' of the }uo<{ lu'rativ(» branches of our commerce,
and what ia scarcely of less importance, one of the most
Taluable nurseries for seamen which Great Britain pos-
Bes^'cs." — Parn/s f'irst I'oi/ar/c, vol. ii. ]). 2 iO.

Pleased witli his f>rmer zeal and enterprise, and in
').rdor to i;ive him an 0[tpurlULiity of te.-ting the truth of

rnOGKF.SS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Ill

•^1

his observaLioiis, a few montlis after lie returned home,
the Admiralty i?ave Parry the command of another expe-
dition, with instructions to proceed to Hudson's Strait, and
penetrate to the westward until in Repulse Ba}', or on
some other part of the shores of Hudson's Ba}- to the
north of Waj^er Eiver, he should reach the western eo:i>t
of tlie cc»ntinent. Failing in these quarters, he was to keep
alouix the coast, carefully examiniuii^ every bend or inlet,
which should appear likely to afford a practicable passajje
to the westward.

The vessels commissioned, with their officers and crews,
were the followinsj. Several of the olBcers of the former
expedition were promoted, those who had been on the lust
voyage with Parry I have marked with an asterisk : —

Commander — *W. E. Parry.

Chaplaui and Astronomer — Eev. Geo. Fisher (was in

the Dorothea, under Capt. Buchan, in 1818.)
Lieutenants — *J. Nias and *A. Reid.
Surgeon — *.J. Edwards.
Purser — *W. H. Hooper.
Assistant-Surgeon — J. Skeoch.
Midshipmen — *J. C. Ross, *J. Bushnau, J. Henderson,

F. R. M. Crozier.
Greenland Pilots — *J. Allison, master ; *G. Crawfurd,

mate.
47 Petty Olllcers. Seamen, &c.

Total complement, 60.

Hecla.

Commander — G. F. Lyon.

Lieutenants — *H. P. lloppner and *C. Palmer.

Surgeon — *A. Fisher.

Purser — J. Germain.

Assistant-Surgeon — A. M'Laren.

Midshipmen — *W. N. Griffiths, J. Sherer, C. Richards,

E. J. Bird.
Greenland Pilots — *G. Fife, master ; *A. Elder, mate.
46 Petty Officers. Seamen, &c.

Total complement, 58,

Lieutenant Lyon, the second in command, had obtained
some reputation from his travels in Tripoli, Mourzouk,
and other parts of Northern Africa, and was raised to the
rank of Commander on his appointment to the Heola^ and

PARRY S SECOXD VOYAGE.

home,
expe-

it, and
01* on
to the
.1 fo:i*t
o keep
inlet,
lassai^e

crews.

former
the hist

(was in

L8.)

ulerson,
awfurd,

chards,
mate.

)tained

irzouk,

to the

\la, and

received his promotion as Captaiu, when tlic expedition
returned.

Tlio sliips were aecompaniod a.«( far as the ice by the
N^autth'.s transport, freiy:hted with provisions and stores,
which wore to oe transhipped as soon as room was icjund
for them.

The vessels got away from the little Nore early on the
8th of ^fay, 1821, hut meeting!; with stronu: jLjales oil' the
Greenland coast, and a boisterous passa«je, did not lall in
with tlie ice until the middle of June.

On the 17th of June, in a heavy {^ale from the south-
ward, the sea stove and carried away one of the quarter
boats of the Hccla. On the following day, in lat. 60'^
53' N., long. 61° 39' \V., they made the pack or main
body of ice, having many large bergs in and near it. On
the 10th. Kesolution Island, at the entrance of Hudson
Strait, was seen distant sixty-four miles. Capt. Lyon
states, that during one of the watches, a large fragment
was observed to fall from an iceberg near the llecla,
which threw up the water to a great height, sending
forth at the same time a noise like the report of a great
gun. From this period to the 1st of July, the shipa
were occupied in clearing the Nautilus of her stores pre-
paratory to her return home, occasionally made fast to a
berg, or driven out to sea by gales. On the 2nd, after
runnin.'r through heavy ice, they again made llesolution
Island, and shaping their course for the Strait, were soon
introduced to the company of some unusually large ice-
bergs. The altitude of one was 258 feet above the surface
of the sea; its total height, therefore, allowing one-seventh
only to be visible, must have been about 1806 feet ! This
however is supposing the base under water not to spiead
bevond the mass above water. The vessels had seartrSy
drifted past tliis floating mountain, when the ediiv ido*
carried them with great rapidity amongst a clu?i -r
of cloven bergs of huge size, and having a l^Tift'^'ul
diversity of form. The largest of these was ./M^ feet
above the water. The floe ice was running wildly a' tU'.^
rate of three miles an hour, sweeping the vessels p" the
bergs, against any one of which tliey might have received
incalculable injury. An endeavour was made to i.\.iko
the ships fast to one of them, (for all of them were aground),
in order to ride out the tide, but it proved unsuccessful,
and the Furi/ had much difficulty in sending a boat for
some men who were on a small berg, making holes for
her ice anchors. They were therefore swept past and

rnooREsg op arctic discovery.

soon beset. Fifty-four iceber;;s wei'e couutcd froin the
mast-lu'.'ul.

On the 3rd tliey made some proj^ress t]irout;!i very heavy
lloes ; but on tlie tiik^ turniii;;, the louse ie»' llrw loLjetlier
with riueh rapidity and noise, that thijre was barely tinio
to secure tlie ships in a natural doc'lc, IjcIoiv' llic two streams
met, aiul even then they received some lieavy shocks.
"Water was procured for use from tlio ])ools in tiie Hoc to
which (lie 8liips were made fast; and tliia bcinu; tlie lir.sfc
time of doinj? so, alforded j^rcat amusement to the novices,
who, even wheu it was their ])eriod of rest, ]>referred pelt-
Ing each other with 8nowd)alls, to t;oin<j^ to bed. Duircliugf
"srith eddies, 8tron}:j cnrrents, and (lanj;erous bcr^s, they
were kei)t in a state of anxiety and danjjer, for a week or
ten days. On oue 0(;easiou, with the prospect of l).'in{5
driven on shore, the prt^ssnre they experienced was so
ijreat, that five hawsers, six incites thick, were carried
away, and the best bower anchor of t he h'cchi was wrenched
from tlie bows, and broke olfat iiw head of the shank, with
;w much ease as if, instead of weiy^hin^ upwards of a ton,
it liad been of crockery ware, b^or a week tiiey were
cmba3ed by the ice, and durijiuj this period tliey saw three
stran;j^e ships, also beset, under Uesolution Island, wliieh
they contrived to join on the KUli of July, makinj; fast tou
floe near them. They proved to be the Hudson's Bay
Company's traders. Prince of Wdles and JEtldt^stonc. wiili
the Lot'tl WcUiiigton, chartered to convey 1<)() natives ot
Holland, who were proceediuir to settle on Lord Selkirk's
estate, at the lied River. " Whilst nearin«f these vessels
(says Lyon), we observed the settlers wallziuj; on deck, for
:vbove two hours, the men in old-fashii»ncd y:rcy jackets,
and the women weariui; lomj^-eared mob caps, like tliose used
]>y the Swiss peasants. As we were surrounded by ice,
and tlie thermometer was at the freezinj,' point, it may bo
supposed that this ball, al vcro fresf", allorded ua much
jimusenu'nt." The Hudson's IJa}^ ships had iel't England
twenty days after the expedition.

The emi;j;rant sliip had been hampered nineteen d;iys
amonijst the ice, before she j»)ined the others ; and as liiisi
naviiTjition was new to her captain and crew, they almo.-'fc
despaired of ever jretlintj to tlicir journey's en*!, yo varied
and constant luul been thei»* impediments. The nuteii-
men had, however, In'haved very ))hilosoi)hieiilly durint^
this period, and seemed determined on l)ein^ merry, in
spite of the weatlicr and the (lan<;ers. Several man ia;jfes
had taken ]il..ee. (the sur^^eon, who was nccomp;iny:!i<;
them to the coJuuy, ollieiatin^ as c!','!'L'yii\an,) and many

PARRY .S SECOND VOYAGE.

tlie

heavy
(t^i'ther
y limo
tiviuns
shocks.

Hoc to
lie iirst
iovici'3,
lmI ])clt-
ullctinsf

rs, tlicy

wcclv or
,t' b.'inj;
wtis so
carried
rcnuhetl
nk. with
if a ton,
tcy wcro
aw tlireo
d, uhich
fast to a
>u'ri liay
\o}tc. wiili
iifives ot
Selkirk's
,0 vessels
leek, for
jackets,
lioso used
by ieo,
may l)0
ki.- Hiuck
ll'hi^laiid

I'cn (l:iy3
d as ihiti

,' almot't

o varied

DtiU'h-

h'lry, ill

liari'lui^es

^|Kmyin}(

id lujuiy

more were in nijitation : each hnppy couple always (l(i'ciT;ni(
th<» ceremony until a line dav allowed of an cvenin;: hall,
"whicli \vaa only terminated l)y a Iresli hreezc. ov a fall of
snow. {T/f/o)i's Prirafc Join'nal, \>. \\,\ On the }.7th the
ships were separated by the ice, anil they saw no nK>re of
their visitors. On the 21st they were only off the J/Ower
SavH'j^e Islands. Jn tlie eveninii they saw a very h^^n^
bear lyin«j; on a piece of ice, and two boats were instantly
sent off in chnse. They approached ' tv elose before
ho took to tho water, when he sAAam rapidly, and nuido
Jon:,^ snrinixs, turnin«jj boldly to face his pursuers. It was
with dilliculty lie was captured. As these animals, althouirh
very fat and bulky, sink the instant they die, he was
Inslied to a boat, and broufjht alon<;side the ship. ( )n
hoist injjf him in, they wcro astonished to find that his
ueiirht exceeded sixteen liundred ])ounds, bein<; one of the
larijest ever killed. Two instances, only, of larger bears
beinjj shot are recorded, and these were by Uarentz's crew,
in his third voyage, at Clierio Island, to whicii they f^ave
the name of iJear Island. The two bears killed then
measured twelve and thirteen feet, while this one only
Tnea.sured eight feet eijjht inches, from the snout to the
insertion of tho tail. The seamen ate the Hesh without
experiencing any of tliose baneful ellects which old navi-
^'alors attribute to it, and which are stated to have made
three of Harentz's people " so sick that we expected they
would have died, and their skins peeled olF from head to
foot." Bruin was very fat, aid having procured a tub of
blubber from the carcass, it was thrown overboard, and
the 8niell soon attracted a couple of walruses, the first that
had been yet seen.

They here fell in with a niunerous body of the Esqui-
maux, who visited them from the shoro. In less than an
hour the ships were beset witli thirty *' kavrtks," or men's
canoes, and live of the women's large boa*>s, or • oomiaks."
Some of the latter held iipward:^* of twoity wornt.n. A
most noisy but nu ; »y barter instantly took place, the crew
being as anxious to purehas** Escpiimaux curiosities, as tho
natives were to procure iron and Etiropean toys.

*• it is ipiite out of my power (observes Captain Lyon)
to describe the .shouts, yells, and latighter of the savages,
or the confusion which existed for two or tliree hours.
The females were at first very shy, and unwilling to come
on th'» ice. but bartered everything from their boats. This
liinidit >', however, soon wore off, and they, in the end,
became as noisy and boisterous as the men." "It ii
ecarcely possible (ho adds) to conceive anything more

r 2

PROO.IESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEUV.

ufjly or (lisj;iistin«; tlmn llic countonanccs of the old
women, wlio liad inilamod oycs, Mrinlclccl skin, hlack teeth,
and, in fact, such a forbiddni<jf set of features as searci'ly
could be called liuman ; to which mij^lit be added their
dress, which was such as j^avo them the appearance of
aged onrang-outangs. Frobisher's crew may be pardoned
for having, in such supei*stitious times as a.d. 1570, taken
one of these ladies for a witch, of whom it is said, * The
old wretch whom our sailors supposed to be a witch, had
her buskins pulled off, to see if sue was cloven-footed ; and
being very ugly and deformed, we let her go.' "

In bartering thoj'- have a singular custom of ratifying
the bargain, by licking the article all over before it is put
away in security. Captain Lyon says he frequently shud-
dered at seeing the children draw a razor over their tongue,
as unconcernedly as if it had been an ivory paper-knife.
I cannot forbear quoting here some humorous passages
from his journal, which stand out in relief to the scieutiiic
and nai'tical ])art3 of the narrative.

•' Tlic strangers wci'e so well pleased in our society,
that fclie, showed no wish to leave us, and when the
mark)! ^r^d quite ceased, they began dancing and ])hi3 ing
'^'ith o\u people, on the ice alongside. This exercise set
mmiy of their noses bleeding, and discovered to us a most
nasty cuiiom, which accounted for their gory faces, and
Mvk:?*]* vVi^s, that as fast as the blood ran down, they scraped
i*" with, iie fingers into their mouths, appearing to con-
sider it as a reiresliment, or dainty, if we migl'J judge by
the zest with which they smacked their lips at each
supply." * * *

" In order to amuse our new acquaintances as much as
possible, the fiddler was sent on. the ice, where he instantly
found a most delightful set of drmcers, of whom some of
the women kept pretty good time. Their on]y figure con-
sisted in stamping and jumping with i 11 their might. Our
musician, who was a lively fellow, soon caught the infec-
tion, and began cutting capers also. In a short time every
one on ihe floe, of'Juers, men, and savages, wore dancing-
togv^her, and exhibited one of tht> most extraordinary
iighis i ever w!;nes8ed. One of our seamen, of a frojiu,
ruddy complexion, ex(jited the admiration of all the young
females, who patted his face, auvl danced around him
wherever he went.

" The exertion of dancing so ^exhilarated the Esquimaux,
that they had the appeai'ance of being boisterously drunk,
and played many extraordinary prauks. Amongst others,
it was a favourite joke to I'lia slily behind the seamen, and

saury's 8EC0XD VOYAGE

«o soundly,, a, to ob%^t.^tr^«"« boxed C.!S
at Lim ([„,'■ y'- althon^'h everl^„ '""'',»'"' "o

-I rJo.i4''„r„tr:f^ -J the n,ourjLSL;r

niOOUKSS OP ARCTIC DISCOVEUT.

■'If

III

siilocks, OP youii«; coul-fisli, to servo for two meals for tho
whole Hliip's coinptmy. Burinj^ tho ni«^lit white wlinlei
were seen Ivin<j[ in hundreds close to the rocks, probably
feedinLf on the siilocks. After carefully exaniinini; Dulco
of York Buy, the ships ^ot into tho Frozen Strait of
Middleton on tho inornin*; of the 20th, and an nnxious
day was closed by passing an openinj; to the southward,
which was found to be Sir Thomas lioe'a Welcome, and
heavinjif to for the nijjht off a bay to tho north-west.
The ships ^ot well in to llepulso Bay on tho 22nd, and a
careful oxamiimtion of its sliores was made by tho boats.

Captains Parry and Lvon, with several officers from
each !*hip, landed and explored the northern shores, while
a boat examined the head of tho bay. Tho waters of
a lon<; cove are described by Captain Lyon as bein^ abso-
lutely hidden by tho cjuantities of younjif cider ducks,
whicii, under tho direction of their mothers, were making
their iirst essays in swimming.

Captain Lyon with a boat's crew made a trip of a
couple of days along some of the indents of tho bay,
and discovered an inlet, which, however, on being entered
subsequently by tho ships, proved only to be tho dividing
channel between an island and tho mainland, about six
miles in length by one in breadth. Proceeding to tho north-
ward by Ilurd's channel, tliey experienced a long rolling
ground swell setting against them. On the 28th, ascend-
ing a steep mountain, Captain Lyon discovered a noble
bay, subsequently named Gore Bay, in which lay a few
islands, and towards this they directed their course.

Captain Parry, who had been two days absent with
boats exploring the channel and shores of the strait,
returned on tho 20th, but set off again on tho same day
with six l)<>ats to sound and examine more minutely.
"Wiien Parry returned at night, Mr. GrilQths, of the
Ileria, brought on board a largo doe, which he hat I killed
while swimming (amongst large masses of ice) from islo
to isle ; two others and a fawn were procured on shore by
the Fnn/s people. Tiie tjarae laws, as they were laid
down on the former voyage wliile wintering at Melville
Island, were 0!iee more put in force. These "enacted
that for tho purpose of eronomiziug the Hhii)'s provisions,
all (leer or nuisk-oxrn killed should be served out in lieu
of I lie usual alKwa'iee of meat. Hares, ducks, and other
birds were not. at tliis time to be iiiehided. As au encou-
ragement to sportsmen, the head, logs, and otl'al of tiie
.arger animals were to be the ]K'rijuisites of those who
procured the carjasea for the general good." "In the

parry's second voyage.

for tlio
wlialeB
•obably

r DulcO

rait of
luxious
;hward,
no, and
,h-west.
, and a
boats,
re from
8, while
aters of
iff abso-
p ducks,
making

rip of a
the bay,
; entered
dividing
bout six
ic north-
rolling
ascond-
a noble
ay a few

nt with
strait,
ame day
linutcly.
of the
I killed
roin islo
ihoro by
ere laid
Melville
enacted
I vis ions,
in lieu
lul othoi'
L eneou-
[ of the

S" ■Nvin>

iu the

animals of this day (observes Lyon) wo wcro convineed
Jiat our sportsmen had not forgotten the latitude to which
their ])erquivsites might legally extend, for the necks were
made so long as to encroach con8id(»nibly on the vertebno
of the baek ; a manner of amputaimg the heads which
had been learnt during the former voyage, and, no doubt,
would be strictly acted up to in the present one."

Whilst the ships on the 30th were proceeding through
this strait, having to contend with heavy wind and wild
ice, which with an impetuous tide ran against the roeks
with loud crashes, at the rate of five knots in the centre
stream; four boats towing astern were torn away by the
ice, and, with the men in them, were for some time in
great danger. The vessels anchored for the night in a
small nook, and weighing at daylight on the lUst they
stood to the eastward, but Gore 13ay was found elosely
packed with ice, and most of the inlets they passed were
also beset.

A prevalence of fog, northerly wind, and heavy ieo in Hoes
of some milesincircumferencojuow carried the ships, in spite
of constant labour and exertions, in three days back to the
very spot in Fox's Channel, where a month ago they had
commenced their operations. It was not till the 5th of
September that they could again got forward, and then by
one of the usual changes in the navigation of these seas,
the ships ran well to the north-east unimpeded, at the rate
of six knots an hour, anchoring for the night at the mouth
of a large opening, which was named Lyon Inlet. The
next day they proceeded about twenty-live miles up this
inlet, which appeared to be about eight miles broad.
Captain Parry pushed on with two boats to examine the
head of the inlet, taking provisions for a week. Ho
returned on the lllh, having failed in finding any outlet to
the place ho had been examining, which was very extensive,
full of fiords and rapid overfalls of the tide. He had
procured a suiHcieiicy of game to aflbrd his people a hot
sui)per every evening, which, after the constant labour of
the day, was highly iK-eeplnblo. He fell in also with a
small party of natives wlio Jii^played the usual thieving
propensities.

Animal food of all kindr^ was found to be very plentiful
in this locality. A line salmon trout was bvouglit down by
one of the oihcers from a lake in the mountains. The vrcw
of the Hccla killed in a fortnight four deer, forty hares,
eighty-two ptanuigaji, fifty dueks, three divers, thre«^ I'oxes,
three ravens, four seals, ermines, marmottes, mice, itc.
Two of the seals killed wcro immeaao animals of the

III

' I H/v. ' T.

Yf"

PROGRESS OP ARCmC DISCOVERY.

bearded species {P/wraharhata)t very fat, wcijjhiug about
eight or iiino cwt., the others were tlic common species
(P. vitulina.)

Captain Parry acain lofl in boats on the 15th to cxpminu
more carefully the land that had been passed so rapidly on
the 5th and 6th. Not finding him rt.'tum on tlic 21th,
Captain Lyon ran down the coast to meet him, and by
burning blue lights fell in with him at ten that night.
It appeared ho had been frozen up for two days on the
necond evening after leaving. When ho got clear he ran
down to, and sailed round, Gore Bay, at that time per-
fectly clear of ice, but by the next morning it was quitr
filled with heavy pieces, which much impeded his rciurn.
Once more ho was frozen up in a small bay, where he was
detained three days ; when finding there was no chance
of getting out, in consequence of the rapid formation of
young ice, by ten hours' severe labour, the bonts were
carried over a low point of land, a mile and a half wide,
and once more launclied.

On the Gth of October the impediments of ico continuing
to increase, being met with in all its formations of sludge
or young ice, pancake ice and bay ice, a small open bay
within a little cape of land, forming the S. E. extremity of
an island off Lyon Inlet, was sounded, and being found
to be safe anchorage the ships were brought in, and, from
the indications which were setting in, it was finally deter-
mined to secure them there for the winter j by means of
a canal half a mile long, which was cut, thoywere taken
further into the bay. The island was named Winter Islo.

Preparations were now made for occupation and amuse-
ment, so as to pass awuy pleasantly the period of detention.
A good stock of theatrical dresses and properties having
been laid in by the cflicers before leavmg lilnglana,
arrangements were made for performing plays fortnightly,
as on their last winter residence, as a means of amusing
the seamen, and in some degree to break the tedious
monotony of th<}ir confinement. As there could be no
desire, or ho]>e of excelling, every oflicer's name was
readily entered on the list of dramatis persona, Captain
Lyon kindly imdertaking the dllficult olfice of manager.
Tliosc ladies ^8ay8 Lyon) who had cherished tht growth
of their beards and whiskers, as a defence against the
inclemency of the climate, now generously agreed to do
away with such unfeminino ornaments, and evi-rything
bade fair for a most stylish theatre.

As a curiosity, I may here put on record tho playbill for

PARRYS SECOND VOYAOE.

ibout
>ccios

»nunu
lly oa
2Uh,
ul by
night.
>n the
lie ran
p;*!"-

•elurn.
le was
t'hanco
tion of
9 wcro
f wide,

tinuing
slud^o
•en bay
niity of
found
, irom
deter-
loans of
taken
er Isle,
amuso-
ention.
having
gland,
lightly,
musing
tedious
be no
e was
aptain
nager.
rrowth
ist the
to do
y thing

[bill for

the evening. I have added the ship to whieh each oflioer
belonged.

THEATllE llOYAL,

WINTER ISLE.

Tlio Public arc respectfully informed that this \\ii\c, y«t
elegant. Theatre will opiMi for the season on Friday
Me\t, the 0th of IS'ovember, 1821, when will be per-
formed Sheridan's celebrated Comedy of

THE KIVALS.

Sir Anthony Absolute
Captain Ahsolttte
Sir Lucius G" Trigger
iFaulk'land , . .

Acres

J^^ag . . « • •

David

Jfr.s'. Malaprop , .

Julia

Lydia Languish
Lucy

Captain Parry (Furtj).

Captain Lyon (llec(a).

Mr. Crozier {Fury).

Mr. J.Edwards (Fury).

iSfr. J. Henderson (Fury),

Lieut. Hoppner (7/ hi),

Lieut. Jleia [Furj

^Ir. C. liiehards [jjcria).

Mv. \V. H. Ilooner (Fury),

]Mr. J. Sherer {Heel a).

Mr. \V. Mogg (elcrk of llecla)»

Songs by Messrs. C. Palmer (TTecIa) and J. Ilenderson
will bo introduced in the course of the evening.

On tlic 17th of December a shivering sot of actors per-
formed to a great-coated, yet very cold audience the
comedy of the ** Poor Gentleman." A burst of true Eng-
lish feeling was exliibited during the performance of this
play. In tho scene where Lieut. Worthington and Corporal
Foss reeount in so animated a manner their former achieve-
ments, advancing at the same time, and huzzaing for
" Old England," the whole audience, with one accord, rose
and gave three most hearty cheers. They then sat down,
and the play continued uninterrupted.

On Christmas Eve, in order to keep the people quiet
and sober, two farces were performed, and the phantasma-
goria (which had been kindly presented anonymously to
tho ships before leaving by u lady) exhibited, so that the
night passed merrily away.

The coldness of tlie weather proved no bar to tho per-
formance of a play at the appointed time. If it amused

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0 ^t^Ui

U
1.25

12.2
a — ■■

U 11.6

Photographic

Sdeiices

Corporation

:<\-

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. I45S0

(716) •72-4503

'4^^

^^>^

"^^5^

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

i«' '

::l) il:

the seamen the purpose was answered, but it was a cruel
task for the performers. " In our green-room (says Lyon),
which was as much warmed as any other part of the
Theatre, the thermometer stood at 16°, and on a table
which was placed over a stove, and about six inches above
it, the coffee froze in the cups. For my sins, I was ob]i<i;ed
to be dressed in the height of the fashion, as Dick Dow
las, in the ** Heir at Lav. ," and went throuj^h the last
scene of the play with two of my fingers frost-bitten ! Let
those who have witnessed and admired the performances
of a Young, answer if he could possibly have stood so
cold a reception."

Captain Parry also states in his Journal, " Among the
recreations which afforded the highest gratification to
several among us, I may mention the musical parties we
were enabled to muster, and which assembled on stated
evenings throughout the winter, alternately in Commander
Lyon's cabin and in my own. More skilful amateurs in
music might well have smiled at these, our humble con-
certs, but it will not incline them to think less of the
science they admire, to be assured that, in these remote and
desolate regions of the globe, it has often furnished us with
the most pleasurable sensations which our situation was
capable of affording; for, independently of the mere grati-
fication afforded to the ear by music, there is, perhaps,
scarcely a person in the world really fond of it, in whose
mind its sound is not more or less connected with * his far
listant home.' There are always some remembrances
which render them inseparable, and those associations are
not to be despised, which, while we are engaged in the
performance of our duty, can still occasionaJly transport
us into the social circle of our friends at home, in spite of
the oceans that roll between us." But their attention was
not confined to mere amusements. Much to the credit of
the seamen, an application was made in each ship for per-
mission to open an evening school, which was willingly
acceded to. Almost every man could read and some
could write a little, but several found that, from long
disuse, it was requisite to begin again.

Mr. Halse volunteered to superintend the classes in the
Fury; while Benjamin White, a seaman, who had been
educated at Christ's Hospital, officiated as schoolmaster in
the Hecla, and those best qualified to assist aided in the
instruction of their shipmates, who made rapid progress
under their tuition. On Christmas Day, Captain Lyon
states that he received sixteen copies from men, who two

a cruel
I Lvon),
of tlie
a table
;s abovo
obli<;ed
'ih Uoto-
tho last
en! Let
rmancca
atood so

long tlie
ation to
irties Ave
n stated
nmander
ateurs in
ible con-
53 of the
mote and
i us -with
ition was
jre grati-
perbaps,
in whose
I * his far
nbrances
tions are
d in the
iransport
spite of
ition was
iredit of
for per-
illingly
id some
►m long

;s in the
lad been
1 aster in
in the
)roi?rGSS
in Lyon
rho two

parry's second voyage.

months before scarcely knew their letters. These little
specimens were all well written, and sent with as much
pride as if the writers had been good little schoolboys,
instead of stout and excellent seamen.

An observatory was erected on shore, for carrying on
magnetical, astronomical, and other scientific operations.
Foxes were very plentiful about the ships ; fifteen wcro
caught in one trap in four hours on the night of the 25th
of October, and above one hundred were either trapped or
killed in the course of three months, and yet there seemed
but little diminution in their numbers. Captain Lyon
Bays he found them not bad eating, the flesh much
resembling that of kid. A pack of thirteen wolves came
occasionally to have a look at the ships, and on one occa-
sion broke into a snow-house alongside, and walked off
with a couple of Esquimaux dogs confined there. Bears
now and then also made their appearance.

A very beautiful ermine walked on board the Ilecla one
day, and was caught in a small trap placed on the deck,
certainly the first of these animals which was ever taken
ahve on board a ship 100 yards from ihe land. The
ravenous propensities of even some of the smallest
members of the animal kingdom ai'e exemplified ])y tho
following extract: —

** We nad for some time observed that in the fire-hole,
•which was kept open in the ice alongside, a countless mul-
titude of small shrimps were constantly rising near tho
surface, and we soon found that in twenty-four hours they
would clean, in the most beautiful manner, the skeletons."

After attending Divine service on Christmas Day, the
officers and crews sat down to the luxury of joints of
EngHsh roast beef, which had been kept untainted by
being frozen, and the outside rubbed with salt. Cranberry
pies and puddings, of every shape and size, with a full
allowance of spirits, followed, and, probably the natural
attendance of headaches succeeded, for the next morning
it was deemed expedient to send all tha people for a run on
the ice, in order to put them to rights ; but thick weather
coming on it became necessary to recal them, and, post-
poning the dinner hour, they were all danced sober by
one o'clock, the fiddler being, fortunately, quite as he
should be. During this curious ball, a witty fellow
attended as an old cake woman, with lumps of frozen
snow in a bucket ; and such was the demand for his pics
on this occasion, that he was obliged to replenish prettv
firecjuently. The year had now dirawn to a close, and all

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

11 i

enjoyed excellent health, and were blessed with good
spirits, and zeal for the renewal of their arduous exertions
in the summer.

No signs of scurvy, the usual plague of such voyages,
had occurred, and by the plans of Captain Parry, as
carried out on the former voyage, a sufficiency of mustard
and cress was raised between decks to afford all hands a
salad once, and sometimes twice a week. The cold now
•became intense. Wine froze in the bottles. Port was
congealed into thin pink laminse, which lay loosely, and
occupied the whole length of the bottle. White wine, on
the contrary, froze into a solid and perfectly transparent
mass, resemblingamber.

On the 1st of February the monotony of their life was
varied by the arrival of a large party of Esquimaux, and an
interchange of visits thenceforward took place with this
tribe, which, singularly enough, were proverbial for their
honesty. Ultimately, however, they began to display
some tnievish propensities, for on one evening in March a
most shocking theft was committed, which was no less
than the last piece of English corned beef from the mid-
shipmen's mess. Had it been an 181b. carronade, or
even one of the anchors, the thieves would have been
welcome to it; but to purloin English beef in such
a country was unpardonable.

On the 15th of March Captain Lyon, Lieutenant
Palmer, and a party of men, left the ship, with provisions,
tents, &c., in a large sledge, for an excursion of three or
four days, to examine the land in the neighbourhood of
the ships.

The first night's encampment was anything but com-
fortable. Their tent they found so cold, mat it was
determined to make a cavern in the snow to sleep in ; and
digging this afforded so good an opportunity of warming
themselves, that the only shovel was lent from one to the
other as a particular favour. After digging it of sufficient
size to contain them all in a sitting posture, by means of
the smoke of afire they managed to raise the temperature
to 20", and, closing the entrance with blocks of snow, crept
into their blanket oags and tried to sleep, with the plea-
sant reflection that their roof might fall m and bury them
all, and that their one spade was the only means of
liberation after a night's drift of snow.

They woke next mornin^ to encounter a heavy gale and
drift, and found their sledge so embedded in the snow
that they could not get at it, and in the attempt their
faces and extremities were most painfully frost-bitten.

L good
ertiouB

jyages,
rry, as
lustard
lands a
Id now
irt waa
ly, and
ino, on
sparent

life was
, and an
itli this
)r their
display
iarch a
no less
le mid-
lade, or
ve been
in such

iitenant
visions,
liree or
ood of

It com-
lit was
; and
irming
to the
Ifficient
fans of
jrature
[, crept
plea-
them
IS of

le and
snow
their

)itten.

PARRY S SECOND VOYAGE.

The thermometer was at 82" below zero : they could not,
moreover, sec a yard of the road ; yet to remain appeared
worse than to go forward — the last plan was, therefore,
decided on. The tent, sled^^e, and lu^jjage were left
behind, and with only a few pounds of bread, a little rum,
andu spade, the party again set out; and in order to depict
their sufferings, I must take up the narrative as related by
the commander himself.

" Not knowing where to go, we wandered amongst the
heavy hummocks of ice, and suffering from cold, fatigue,
and anxiety, were soon completely bewildered. Several of
our party now began to exmbit symptoms of that horrid
kind of msensibility which is the prelude to sleep. They
aU professed extreme willingness to do what they were
told in order to keep in exercise, but none obeyed ; on
the contrary, they reeled about like drunken men. The
faces of several were severely frost-bitten, and some had
for a considerable time lost sensation in their fingers and
toes ; yet they made not the slightest exertion to rub the
parts affected, and even discontinued their general
custom of warming each other on observing a discolora-
tion of the skin. Mr. Palmer employed the people in
building a snow wall, ostensibly as a shelter from the
wind, but in fact to give them exercies, when standing
still must have proved fatal to men in our circumstances.
My attention was exclusively directed to Sergeant Speck-
man, who, having been repeatedly warned that his nose
was frozen, had paid no attention to it, owing to the state
of stupefaction into which he had fallen. The frost-bite
had now extended over one side of his face, which was
frozen as hard as a mask ; the eyelids were stiff", and one
corner of the upper lip so drawn up as to expose the teeth
and gums. My hands being still warm, I had the happi-
ness of restoring the circulation, after which I used all my
endeavours to keep the poor fellow in motion ; but he
complained sadly of giddiness and dimness of sight, and
was so weak as to be unable to walk without assistance.
His case was so alarming, that I expected every moment
he would lie down, never to rise agam.

"Our prospect now became every moment more gloomy,
and it was but too probable that four of our party would
be unable to survive another hour. Mr. Palmer, however,
endeavoured, as well as myself, to cheer the people up, but
it was a faint attempt, as we had not a single hope to give
them. Every piece of ice, or even of small rock or stone,
was now supposed to be the ships, and we had great diffi-
culty in preventing the men from running to the different

'\m

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

I- :

objects which attracted them, and consequently losing
themselves in the drift. In this state, while Mr. Palmer
was running round us to warm himself, he suddenly pitched
on a new beaten track, and as exercise wns indispensable,
we determined on following it, wherever it mi;j;lit lead us.
Having taken the sergeant under my coat, he recovered a
little, and we moved onwards, when to our infinite joy we
found that the path led to the ships."

As the result of this exposure, one man had two of his
fingers so badly frost-bitten as to lose a good deal of the
flesh of the upper ends, and for many days it was feared
that he would be obliged to have them amputated. Quar-
ter-master Carr, one of those who had been the most
hardy while in the air, fainted twice on getting below, and
every one had severe frost-bites in different parts of the
body, which recovered after the usual loss of skin in. these
eases.

One of the Esquimaux females, by name Igloolik, who
plays a conspicuous part in the narrative, was a general
favourite, being possessed of a large fund of useful informa-
tion, having a good voice and ear for music, being an
excellent sempstress, and having such a good idea of the
hydrography and bearings of the neighbouring sea-coasts,
as to draw charts which guided Parry much in his future
operations, for he found her sketches to be in the maiii cut-
rect. She connected the land from their winter-quarters to
the north-west sea, rounding and terminating the northern
extremity of this part of America, by a large island, and a
strait of sufficient magnitude to afford a safe passage for
the ships. This little north-west passage, observes Lyon,
set us all castle-building, and we already fancied the wor»t
part of our voyage over ; or, at all events, that before half
the ensuing summer was past, we should arrive at Akkoolee,
the Esquimaux settlement on the western shore. Half-
way between that coast and E-epulse Bay, Igloolik drew
on her chart a lake of considerable size, having small
streams running from it to the sea, on each side ; and the
correctness of this information was fully proved by Eae
in his recent expedition in 1846.

On the 13th of April their Esquimaux friends took their
departure for other quarters; towards the end of the
month the crews completed the cutting of trenches round
the vessels, in order that they might rise to their proper
bearings previous to working in the holds, and the ships
floated like corks on their native element, after their long
imprisonment of 191 days. As the season appeared to be
improving, another laud expedition was determined on.

losing

Palmer

)itchc(l

Qsable,

ead us.

ered

joy we

of his

of the

feared

Quar-
e most
3W, and
;of the
in these

ik, who
general
nforma-
einjT an
a of the
I'CoastSy

future
laiii ut>r-
irters to
northern

i, and a

jage for
|s Lyon,
le wor»t
fore half

:koolee,
Half-

[k drew

small

ind the

)y Rae

l)k their

of the

round

proper

^e ships

nr long

to be

led on»

PARRYS SECOND VOYAGE.

and Captain Lyon and Lieutenant Palmer, attended by
a party of eight men, set off on the 8th of May, taking
•with tlicm twenty days' provisions. Eacli man drew on a
sledge 12G lbs., and the offieers 05 lbs. a-piece.

" Loaded as we were (says the lender), it was with the
grcntost diillculty we made our way amongst and over the
hummocks, ourselves and sledges taking some very un-
pleasant tumbles. It required two hours and a half to
cross the ice, although the distance was not two miles, and
v^'o then landed on a small island, where we passed the
night."

Several islands and shoals in the strait were named
Bird's Isles. At noon on the 11th, they camped at the
head of a fine bay, to which the name of Blake was given.
In spite of all the care which had been taken by using
crape shades, and other coverings for the eyes, five of the
party became severely afflicted with snow blmdness. Before
evening two of the sufi'erers were quite blinded by the
inflammation. Their faces, eyes, and even heads, oeing
much swollen, and very red. Bathing would have afforded
relief, but the sun did not produce a drop of water, and
their stock of fuel being hmited, they could only spare
enough wood to thaw snow for their mid-day draught.

As the morning of the 12th brought no change in the
invalids, another day was lost. Towards evening, by
breaking pieces of ice, and placing them in the full glare
of the sun, sufficient water was obtained, both for drink-
ing and for the sick to bathe their faces, which afforded
them amazing relief, and on the morrow they were enabled
to resume their journey. At noon the sun was sufficiently
powerful to afford the travellers a draught of water with-
out having to thaw it, as had hitherto been the case.

!For nearly three days after this, they were imprisoned
in their low tent by a snow-storm, but on the morning of
the 18th, they were enabled to sally out to stretch their
legs, and catch a glimpse of tlie sun. After examining
many bays and indentations of the coast, the party returned
to the ships on the evening of the 21st. A canal was now
cut through the ice, to get the ships to the open water, in
length 2400 feet, and varying in breadth from 60 to 197
feet. The average thickness of the ice was four feet, but
in some places it was as much as twelve feet. This truly
arduous task had occupied the crews for fifteen days, from
six in the morning to eight in the evening; but they
laboured at it with the greatest spirit and good humour,
and it was concluded on the 18th of June, when the oliicers
and men began to take leave of their several haunts and

; 1

«t

]

?■::■ ^

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

::1i

promenades, particularly the " garden" of each ship, wliieli
had becomo iavourito lounges during their nine months*
detention. A few ill-fated buntinj^ camo near enough to
be shot, and were instantly roasted for a farewell supper,
and bright visions of active exertions on the water on tho
morrow were universally entertained. But the night dis-
pelled all these airy castles, for with the morning's dawn,
they found that the whole body of ice astern of the ships
had broke adrift, fiUed up the hard-wrought canal, and
imprisoned them as firm as ever.

Death now for the first time visited the crews. James
Pringle, a seaman of the Hecla, fell from the mast-head to
the deck, and was killed on the 18th of May. Wm. Souter,
quarter-master, and John Keid, carpenter s mate, belong-
ing to the FurVy died on the 26th and 27th, of natural
causes. Towards the end of June, the sea began to clear
rapidly to the eastward, and the bay ice soon gave way as
far as where the ships were lying, and on the 2nd of July
they put to sea with a fresli breeze, after having been
frozen in for 267 days.

In making their way to the northward, they were fre-
quently in much danger. On the 3rd, the ice came down
on the Hecla with such force as to carry her on board the
Fury, by which the Hecla broke her best bower anchor,
and cut her waist-boat in two. On the 4th, the pressure
of the ice was so great as to break the Hecla adrift from
three hawsers. Four or five men were each on separate
pieces of ice, parted from the ships in the endeavour to
run out a hawser. A heavy pressure closing the loose ice,
unexpectedly gave them a road on board again, or they
must have been carried away by the stream to certain
destruction. On the 8th, the Hecla had got her stream-
cable out, in addition to the other hawsers, and made fast
to the land ice, when a very heavy and extensive floe took
the ship on her broadside, and feeing backed by another
large body of ice, gradually lifted her stem as if by the
action of a wedge.

"The weight every moment increasing, obliged us,"
says Captain Lyon, ** to veer on the hawsers, whose fric-
tion was so great as nearly to cut through the bitt-heads,
and ultimately to set them on fire, so that it became requi-
site for people to attend with buckets of water. The pres-
sure was at length too powerful for resistance, and the
stream-cable, with two six and one five-inch hawsers, all
gave way at the same moment, three others soon follow-
ing them. The sea was too full of ice to allow the ship to

wliicli

lonths*
ajrli to
upper,
on tho
rht dis-
} dawn.
.0 ships
al, and

James
lead to
Soutcr,
belong-
natural
to clear

way as
of July
ig been

ere fre-

\e down

ard the

anchor,

>res8uro

ft from

eparate

vour to

ose ice,

)r they

[certain

itream-

ide fast

»e took

Lother

»y the

lis,"

3e fric-

[heads,

jrequi-

pres-

id the

|rs, all

follow-

[hip to

PAUKT S SECOND VOYAGE.

driro, and the only way in which she could yield to tho
enormous weight which dppresaed her, was by leaning
over on tho land ice, while her stem at the same time was
entirely lifted to above the height of five feet out of tho
water. The lower deck beams now complained very much,
and the whole frame of the ship underwent a trial which
would have proved fatal to any less strengthened vessel.
At the same moment, the rudder was unhung with a sudden
jerk, which broke up the rudder-case, and struck tho
driver-boom with great force."

From this perilous position she was released almost by
a mirac le, and the rudaer re-hung.

The ships at last reached the island which had been so
accurately described to them by the Esquimaux lady —
Idoolik, where they came upon an encampment of 120
Esquimaux, in tents. Captains Parry and Lyon and
other officers made frequent exploring excursions along
the shores of the Fury and Hecla strait, and inland. On
the 26th of August the ships entered this strait, which
was found blocked up with flat ice. The season had also
now assumed so wintry an aspect that there seemed but
little probability of getting much farther west : knowing of
no harbour to protect the ships, unless a favourable change
took place, they had the gloomy prospect before them of
wintering in or near this frozen strait. Boating and land
parties were dispatched in several directions, to report upon
the different localities.

On the 4th of September, Captain Lyon landed on an
island of slate formation, about six miles to the westward
of the ships, which he named Amherst Island. The result
of these expeditions proved that it was impracticable,
either by boats or water conveyance, to examine any part
of the land south-west of Igloolik, in consequence of the
ice.

Mr. Eeid and a boat-party travelled about sixty . niles
to tho westward of Amlierst Island, and ascertained the
termination of the strait. On a consultation with the
officers. Captain Parry determined to seek a berth near
to Igloolik, in which to secure the ships for the winter.
They had now been sixty-five days struggling to get for-
ward, but had only in that time reached forty miles to the
westward of Igloolik. The vessels made the best of their
"Way to the natural channel between this island and the
land, but were for some time drifted with the ice, losing
several anchors, and it was only by hard work in cutting
channels that they were brought into safer quarters near

: 'V'

PIIOGUESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

II )

tlio land. Some fine teams of (lojfa were hero purclmacd
from the Esquimaux, wliich were found Tery serviecabl©
in inalfin|:f excursions on slcdfjes.

Their second Cliristmas Day in this region had now
arrived, and Lyon informs us —

•* Captain I^arry dined with me, and was treated with a
superb display of mustard and cress, with about fifty
onions, rivalling a fine needle in size, which I had reared
in boxes round my cabin stove. All our messes in either
ship were supplied with an extra pound of real English
fresh beef, which had been hanging at our quarter for
eighteen months. Wo could not afford to leave it for a
farther trial of keeping, but I have no doubt that double
the period would not have quite spoiled its flavour."

This winter proved much more severe than the former.
Additional clothing was found necessary. The stove-fun-
nels collected a quantity of ice within them, notwithstand-
ing fires were Kept up night and day, so that it was
frequently rec^uisite to take them down in order to break
and melt the ice out of them.

Nothing was seen of the sun for forty-two days.

On the 15th of April, Mr. A. Elder, Greenland mate of
the ffecla, died of dropsy : he had been leading man with
Parry on Boss's voyage, and for his good conduct was
made mate of the Griper, on the last expedition.

On the 6th of September, 1823, Mr. Geo. Fife, the pilot,
also died of scurvy.

After taking a review of their provisions, and the proba-
bility of having to pass a third winter here, Captain Parrv
determined to send the Secla home, taking irom her all
the provision that could be spared. Little or no hopes
could be entertained of any passage being found to the
westward, otherwise than by the strait now so firmly
closed with ice; but Parry trusted that some interesting
additions might be made to the geography of these dreary
regions, by attempting a passage to the northward or east-
ward, in hopes of findmg an outlet to Lancaster Sound or
Prince Regent's Inlet.

On the 21st of April, 1823, they began transshipping the
provisions ; the teams of dogs being found most useful for
this purpose. Even two anchors of 22 cwt. each, were
drawn by these noble animals at a quick trot.

Upon admitting daylight at tne stern windows of
tlie Ilecla, on the 22ud, the gloomy, sooty cabin
showed to no great advantage, no less than ten buckets of
ice were taken from the sashes and out of the stern lockers,
from which latter some spare flannels and instruments
were only liberated by chopping.

;haac4
ceiible

,d now

witli a
It fifty
reared
I either
Engliab.
rter for
it for a
, double

•

former,
ove-fun-
tlistand-
b it wa»
to break

[mate of
nan with
luct was

tlie pilot,

le proba-
,in Parry
her all
,0 hopes
to the
firmly
;eresting
le dreary
. or east-
(Ound or

Iping the
Iseful for
)h, were

lows of

cabin

Icketa of

1 lockers,

puments

PARRY S SECOND VOYAGE.

On tlio 7th of June, Captain Lyon, witli a pai*ty of men,
set oil' across the Melville Peninsula, to endeavour to ^et
a sinht of the weslcrr 3en, of which they had received do-
Bcri[>)ivo accounts from the natives, but owinfj^ to the dilli-
cultifs of travelliufj, and the ranges of mountains they meb
with, they returned unsuccessful, after bein^ out twenty
days. Another inland trip of a fortnij^ht followed.

On the Ist of Auj;u8t, the Hecla was reported ready for
sea. Some symptoms of scurvy having again made their
appearance in the ships, and the surgeons reporting that
it would not be prudent to continue longer, Captain Parry
reluctantly determined to proceed home with both ships.
After being 319 days in their winter quarters, the ships
got away on the 9th of August.

A conspicuous landmark, with despatches, was set up
on the mainland for the information of Franklin, should
lie reach tliis quarter.

On reaching Winter Island, and visiting their last year*»
garden, radishes, mustard and cress, and onions were
brought off', which had survived the winter and were still
alive, seventeen months from the time they were planted,
a very remarkable proof of their having been preserved by
the warm covering of snow.

The ships, during the whole of this passage, were driven
by the ciu'rent more than three degrees, entirely at the
mercy of the ice, being oarried into every bight, and
swept over each point, without the power of helping them*
selves.

On the 1st of September, they were driven up Lyoii
Inlet, where they were confined high up till the 6th,
when a breeze sprung up, which took them down to
within three miles of Winter Island ; still it was not until
the 12th that they got thoroughly clear of the indraugiit.
The danger and suspense of these twelve days were
horrible, and Lyon justly observes that he would prefer
being frozen up during another eleven months' winter, to
again passing so anxious a period of time.

'* Ten of the twelve nights were passed on deck, iu
expectation, each tide, of some decided change iu our
affairs, either by being left on the rocks, or grounding in
such shoal water, that the whole body of the ice must
have slid over us. But, as that good old seaman Balfiu
expresses himself, * God, who is greater than either icd
or tide, always delivered us !'"

For thirty-five days the ships had been beset, and in that
period had driven with the ice above 300 miles without
any exertion on their part, and also without a possibility

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

of extricating themselves. On the 23rd of September
they once more got int(> the swell of the Atlantic, and on
the 10th of October arrived at Lerwick, in Shetland.

Clavebino's Votaoe to Spitzbbboen akd Gbbbn-

LAND, 1823.

Ik 1823, Capt. Sabine, E.A., who had been for some
time engaged in magnetic observations, and also in experi-
ments to determine the configuration of the earth, by
means of pendulum vibrations in different latitudes, having

Serfected his observations at different points, from the
Iquator to the Arctic Circle, suggested totne Eoval Society,
through Sir Humphry Davy, the importance of extending
similar experiments into higher latitudes towards the Pole.
Accordingly, the Government placed at his disposal H.M.S.
Griper, 120 tons, Commander Clavering, which was to
eonvey him to Spitzbergen, and thence to the east coast of
Greenland.

The Griper sailed from the Nore on the 11th of May,
and proceeded to Hammerfest, or Whale Island, near the
Kortn Cape in Norway, which she reached on the 4th of
June, and Capt. Sabine having finished his shore observa-
tions by the 23rd, the vessel set sail for Spitzbergen. She
fell in with ice off* Cherry Island, in lat. 75° 5', on the
27th, and on the 30th disembarked the tents and instru-
ments on one of the small islands round Hakluyt's Head-
land, near the eightieth parallel. Capt. Clavering, mean-
while, sailed in the Griper due north, and reached the
latitude of 80° 20', where being stopped by close packed
ice, he was obliged to return.

On the 24tli of July they again put to sea, directing
their course for the highest known point of the eastern
coast of Greenland. They met with many fields of ice,
and made the land, which had a most miserable desolate
appearance, at a point which was named Cape Borlase
"Warren. Two islands were discovered, and as (^apt.
Sabine here landed and carried on his observations., they
were called Pendulum Islands. From an island situate in
-at. 75° 12', to which he gave the name of Shannon Island,
Clavering saw high land, stretching due north as far as
lat. 76°.

On the 16tli of August, Clavering landed with a pai'ty of
three officers and sixteen men on the mainland, to exfimiue
the shores. The temperature did not sink below 23^, and
they slept for nearly a fortnight they were on shore with
only a boat-cloak and blanket for a covering, without feel-

mber
kd on

JBN-

Bome
>xperi-
tU, by
having
tm the
ociety,
ending
e Pole.
a.M-S.
was to
coast of

►f May,
lear the
e 4tli of
>bserva-
fn. She
on the
instru-
Head-
, niean-
icd the
packed

[irecting
eastern
of ice,
lesolate
iBorlase

Capt.

1, they
tuate in
I Island,

far as

party of
Examine
l3^, and
|re with
lut feel-

LTON*S VOYAGE IN THE GRIPER.

ing any inconvcnionco from the cold. A tribe of twelve
Esquiraaiix was met with here. They reached in their
journey a magnificent inlet, about fifty miles in circum-
ference, which was supposed to bo the same which Gale
Hamkcs discovered in 1C54, and which bears his name.
The mountains round its sides were 4000 to 5000 feet high.
On the 29th of August, they returned on board, and
having embarked the tents ana instruments, the ship agaia
set sail on the Slst, keeping the coast in view to Cape
Parry, lat. 72^°. The cliffs were observed to bo several
thousand feet high. On the 13th of September, as the
ice in shore began to get very troublesome, the ship
stood out to sea, and after encountering a very heavy
gale, which drove them with great fury to the southward,
and it not being thought prudent to make for Iceland, a
station in about the same latitude on the Norway coast
was chosen instead by Capt. Sabine. They made the
land about the latitude of Christiansound. On the 1st of
October the Griper struck hard on a sunken rook, but
got off undamaged.

On the 6th they anchored in Drontheim Fiord, where
they were receivea with much kindness and hospitality,
and after the necessary observations had been completed
the ship proceeded homewards, and reached Deptford on
the 19th of December. 1823.

Lyon's Voyage in the Gbipeb.

In 1824 three expeditions were ordered out, to carnr on
simultaneous operations in Arctic discovery. To Capt.
Lyon was committed the task of examining and complet-
ing the survey of the Melville Peninsula, the adjoining
straits, and the shores of Arctic America, if possible as far
as Franklin's turning point. Capt. Lyon was therefore
gazetted to the Griper gun-brig, which had taken out
Capt. Sabine to Spitzbergen in the previous year. The fol-
lowing officers and crew were also appointed to her :—

Griper.

Captain— G. F. Lyon.
Lieutenants — P. Manico and F. Harding.
Assistant-Surveyor — £. N. Kendal.
Purser— J. Evans.
Assistant-Surgeon — ^W. Leyson.
Midshipman — J. Tom.
34i Petty officers, seamen, &c.
Total complement, 41.

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

It wa« not till the 20th of June that the Ghiper got
away from England, being a full month later than the
usual period of departure, and the vessel was at the best
but an old tub in lier sailing properties. A small tender,
called the Snap, was ordered to accompany her with stores
as far as the ice, and having been relieved of lior supplies,
flho was sent home on reaching Hudson's Straits.

The Griper made but slow progress in her deeply laden
state, her crowded decks being continually swept by heavy
seas, and it was not until the end of August that she
rounded the southern head of Southampton Island, and
stood up towards Sir Thomas Eoe's Welcome. On reach-
ing the entrance of this channel they encountered a terrific
gale, which for a long time threatened the destruction o£
both ship and crew. Drifting with this, they brought up
the ship with four anchors, in a bay with five fathoms ana
a half water, in the momentary expectation that with
the ebb tide the ship would take the ground, as the
sea broke fearfully on a low sandy beach just astern,
and had the anchors parted nothing could have saved
the vessel. Neither commander nor crew had been in bed
for three nights, and although little hope was entertained
of surviving the gale, and no boat could live in such a sea,
the officers and crew performed their several duties with
their accustomed coolness. Each man was ordered to put
on his warmest clothing, and to take charge of some use-
ful instrument. The scene is best described iu the word?
of the gallant commander : —

" Each, therefore, brought his bag on deck, and dressed
himself; and in the fine athletic forms which stood exposed
before me, I did not see one muscle quiver, nor the
slightest sign of alarm. Prayers were read, and they then
all sat down in groups, sheltered from the wash of t^je sea
by whatever they could find, and some endeavoured to
obtain a Httle sleep. Never perhaps was witnessed a finer
scene than on the deck of my little ship, when all hope of
life had left us. Noble as the character of the British
sailor is always allowed to be in cases of danger, yet I did
not believe it to be possible that among fortj-one persons
not one repining word should have been uttered. Each
was at peace with his neighbour and all the world ; and I
am firmly persuaded that the resignation which was then
shown to the will of the Almighty, was the means of
obtaining His mercy. God was merciful to us, and the
tide, almost miraculously, fell no lower." The appropriate
name of the Bay of God's Mercy has been given to this
spot on the charts by Capt. Lyon.

sr got
,n the
3 best
ender,
stores
ppliea,

r laden
r heavy
at she
id, and
. reach-
terrific
ction oi
ight Tip
»ms and
it with,
as the
astern,
e saved
1 in bed
ei Gained
;h a sea,
ies with,
i to put
line nse-
le word?

dressed
exposed
_ior the
Icy then
Itlje sea
ired to
I a finer
lho|)e of
iBi'itish.
it I did
)ersoii8
Each
and I
IS then
)ans of
tnd the
joprirtto
Ito tliis

PARRY S THIRD VOYAGE.

Proceeding^ onward up the Welcome, they encountered,
about a fortnif^lit later, another fearful storm. On tho
12tli of September, when off the entrance of Wager Inlet,
it blow so hard for two days, that on the 13th the ship
was driven from her anchors, and carried away by the
fury of the gale, with every prospect of being momentarily
dasliod to pieces against any hidden rock ; but the same
good Providence which had so recently befriended them,
a^^ain stood their protector. On consulting with his
olilccrs, it was unanimously resolved, that in the crippled
fitato of tho ship, without any anchor, and with her com-
passes worse than useless, it would be madness to continue
the voyage, and the ship's course was therefore shaped for
England.

I may observe, that the old Griper is now laid up as a
hulk in Chichester Harbour, furnishing a residence and
depot for the coast guard station.

Parry's Third Voyage.

In the spring of 1824 the Admiralty determined to give
Oapt. Parry another opportunity of carrying out tho great
problem wnich had so lon^j been sought after, of a north-
west passage to the Pacific, and so generally esteemed
was this g^ant commander that he had but to hoist his
pennant, when fearless of all danger, and in a noble spirit
of emulation, his former associates rallied around him.

The same two ships were employed as before, but Parry
now selected the Mecla for his pennant. The staff of
officers and men was as follows :-—

Mecla,

Captain — W. E. Parry.

Lieutenants — J. L. Wynn, Joseph Sherer, and Henry
Foster.

Surgeon — Samuel Neill, M.D.

Purser — W. H. Hooper.

Assistant- Surgeon — W. Rowland.

Midshipmen— -J. Brunton, F.R. M.Crozier, C.Eichards,
and H. N. Head.

Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master; and G. Cham-
pion, mate.

49 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines.

Total^complement, 62.

' I

; 1

! i

■ * Si-
;■ r .

\ ; i¥jh

ii;

I
t. ■

I „ V

1 m )

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

Fury,

Commander— H. P. Hoppner.

Lieutenants — H. T. Austin and J. C. Boss.

Surgeon — A. M'Laren.

Purser — J. Halse.

Assistant-Surgeon — T. Bell.

Midshipmen— B. Westropp, C. C. "Waller, and E. Bird.

Clerk— W. Mogg.

Greenland Pilots — G. Crawford, master ; T. Donaldsoii«

mate.
48 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines.
Total complement, 60.

The William Harris, transport, was commissioned to
accompany the ships to the ice with provisions. Among
the promotions made, it will be seen, were Lieut. Hoppner
to the rank of Commander, and second in command of the
expedition. Messrs. J. Sherer and .J. C. Eoss to be Lieu-
tenants, and J. Halse to be Purser. The attempt on this
occasion was to be made by Lancaster Sound through
Barrow's Strait to Prince Regent Inlet. The ships
sailed on the 19th of May, 1824, and a month afterwards
fell in with the body of the ice in lat. 60|°. After trans-
shipping the stores to the two vessels, and sending home
the transport, about the middle of July they were close
beset with the ice in Baffin's Bay, and " from this time
(says Parry) the obstructions from the quantity, magni-
tude, and closeness of the ice, were sucn as to keep our
people almost constantly employed in heaving, warping,
or sawing throiigh it ; and yet with so little success that,
at the close of July, we had only penetrated seventy miles
to the westward." After encountering a severe gale on
the 1st of August, by which masses of overlaying ice were
driven one upon the other, the Hecla was laid on her
broadside by a strain, which Parry says must inevitably
have crushed a vessel of ordinary strength ; they got clear
of the chief obstructions by the first week in September.
During the whole of August they had not one day suffi-
ciently free from rain, snow, or sleet, to be able to air the
bedding of the ship's company.

They entered Lancaster Sound on the 10th of Sep-
tember, and with the exception of a solitary berg or two
found it clear of ice. A few days after they, however, fell
in with the young ice, which increasing daily in thickness,
the ships became beset, and by the current which set to
the east at the rate of three miles an hour, thev were soon

parry's third voyage.

ep our
Lpping,

that,

miles

ale on

were
n her
itably

clear
mber.

suffi-
kthe

Sep-
[r two
|r, feU

mess,

Set to

soon

drifted back to the eastward of Admiralty Inlet, and on
the 23rd they found themselves again oflf WoUaston
Island, at the entrance of Navy Board Inlet. By perse-
verance, however, and the aid oi a strong easterly breeze,
they once more managed to recover their lost ground, and
on the 27th reached the entrance of Port Bowen on the
eastern shore of Prince Regent Inlet, and here Parry
resolved upon wintering ; this making the fourth winter
this enterprising commander had passed in these inhos-
pitable seas.

The usual laborious process of cutting canals had to be
resorted to, in order to get the ships near to the shore in
secure and sheltered situations. Parry thus describes the
dreary monotonous character of an Arctic winter : —

" It is hard to conceive any one thing more like another
than two winters passed in the higher latitudes of the
Polar regions, except when variety happens to be afforded
by intercourse with some other branch of the whole family
of man. Winter after winter, nature here assumes an
aspect so much alike, that cursory observation can scarcely
detect a single feature of variety. The winter of more
temperate climates, and even in some of no shght severity,
is occasionally diversified by a thaw, which at once gives
variety and comparative cheerfulness to the prospect. But
here, when once the earth is covered, aU is dreary mono-
tonous whiteness, not merely for days or weeks, but for
more than half a year together. Wnichever way the eye
is turned, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon
the mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless
torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial ; of
anvthing, in short, but life. In the very silence there is
a deadness with which a human spectator appears out of
"keeping. The presence of man seems an intrusion on the
dreary solitude of this wintry desert, which even its native
animals have for awhile forsaken."

During this year Parry tells us the thermometer re-
mained below zero 131 days, and did not rise above that
point till the 11th of April. The sun, which had been
absent from their view 121 days, again blessed the crews
with his rays on the 22nd ot February. During this
long imprisonment, schools, scientific observations, walk-
ing parties, &c., were resorted to, but "our former
amusements," says Parry, " being almost worn threadbare,
it required some ingenmty to devise any plan that should
possess the charm of novelty to recommend it." A happy
idea was, however, hit upon by Commander Hoppner, at
whose suggestion a inonthly hal masqu4 was held, to the

i If-

!|r.

' I

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

rj-

great diversion of both officers and men, to tlie number of
120. Tlie popular commander entered ffaily into
their recreations, and thus speaks of these Polar mas-
querades : —

" It is impossible that any idea could have proved more
happy, or more exactly suited to our situation. Admirably
dressed characters of various descriptions readily took
their parts, and many of these were supported with a
decree of spirit and genuine jjood humour which would
not have disgraced a more refined assembly ; while the
latter might not have been disgraced by copying the good
order, decorum, and inoffensive cheerfulness which our
humble masquerades presented. It does especial credit
to the dispositions and good sense of our men, that though,
all the officers entered fully into the spirit of these amuse-
ments, which took place once a month alternately on board
of each ship, no instance occurred of anything that could
interfere with the regular discipline, or at all weaken the
respect of the men towards their superiors. Ours were
masquerades without hcentiousness — carnivals without
excess."

Exploring parties were sent out in several directions.
Commander Hoppner and his party went inland, and after
a fortnight's fatiguing journey over a mountainous, barren,
and desolate country, where precipitous ravines 500 feet
deep obstructed their passage, travelled a degree and three-
quarters — ^to the latitude of 73° 19' — but saw no appear-
ance of sea from thence.

Lieutenant Sherer with four men proceeded to the
southward, and made a careful survey of the coast as far
as 72^°, but had not provisions sufficient to go round Cape
Kater, the southernmost point observed in their former
voyage.

Lieutenant J. C. Eoss, with a similar party, travelled to
tlie northward, along the coast of the Inlet, and from the
hills about Cape York, observed that the sea was perfectly
open and free from ice at the distance of twenty-two miles
from the ships.

After an imprisonment of about ten months, by great
exertions the ships were got clear from the iee, and on the
.30th of July, 1825, upon the separation of the floe across
the harbour, towed out to sea. Parry then made for the
western shore of the Inlet, being desirous of examining
the coast of North Somerset for any channel that might
occur, a probability which later discoveries in that quarter
have proved to be without foundation. On the 28th, when
weU in with the \^estem shore, the Hecla, in. spite of every

I!. .s«

3er of

into

mas-
more
irablv

took
ritli a
would
le the
3 good
;li our
credit
Jiougk
Lmuse-
. board
b could
en tlie
B were
dthout

actions.
A after
3arren»
X) feet
tliree-
ippear-

to tlie
as far
dCape
brmer

lied to
►m the
fec%
miles

great
ion the

3ross
(or the

lining
I might
luarter

.when

every

pahry's third voyage.

exertion, was beact by floatinjnr ice, and after breaking two
large ice anchors in endeavouring to heave in shore, wa«
obliged to give up the effort and drift with the ice until
the 30tb. On the following day, a heavy gale came on,
in which the Hecla carried away three hawsers, while
the Fun/ was driven on shore, but was hove off at high
water. Both ships were now d 4fted by the body of the
ice down the Inlet, and took the ground, the JFwry Doing so
nipped and strained that she leaked a great deal, and four
pumps kept constantly at work did not keep her clear of
water. They were floated off' at high water, but, late on
the 2nd of August, the huge masses of ice once more forced
the Fury on shore, and the Hecla narrowly escaped. On
examining her and getting her off", it was found that she
must be nove down and repaired ; a basin was therefore
formed for her reception and completed by the 16th, a
mile further to the southward, within three icebergs
grounded, where there were three or four fathoms of
water. Into this basin she was taken on the 18th, and her
stores and provisions being removed, she was hove down,
but a gale of wind coming on and destroying the masses
of ice which sheltered her, it became necessary to re-em-
bark the stores, &c., and once more put to sea ; but the
unfortunate vessel had hardly got out of her harbour
before, on the 2l8t, she was again driven on shore. A fter
a careful survey and examination, it was found necessary
to abandon her : Parry's opinion being thus expressed —
** Every endeavour of ours to get her off', or if got off", to
float her to any known place of safety, would be at once
utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of extreme risk to
our remaining ship."

The loss of this ship, and the crowded state of the
remaining vessel, made it impossible to think of continuing
the voyage for the purposes of discovery.

" The incessant labour, the constant state of anxiety,
and the frequent and imminent danger into which the sur-
viving ship was thrown, in the attempts to save her com-
rade, which were continued for twenty-five days, destroyed
every reasonable expectation hitherto cherished of the
ultimate accomplishment of this object."

Taking advantage of a northerly wind, on the 27th the
Hecla stretched across the Inlet for the eastern coast,
meeting with little obstruction from the ice, and anchored
in Neill's Harbour, a short distance to the southward of
their winter quarters. Port Bowen, where the ship wag
got ready for crossing the Atlantic.

The Hecla put to sea on the Slat of August, and enter-

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

•< I' H'

li : !

' A

ing Barrow's Strait on the Ist of September, found it
perfectly clear of ice. In Lancaster Sound a very large
number of bergs were seen ; but they found an open sea
in Baflfin's Bay, till, on the 7th of September, when in lati-
tude 72° 30', they came to the margm of the ice, and soon
entered a clear channel on its eastern side. From thirty
to fortj large icebergs, not less than 200 feet in height,
were sighted.

On the 12th of October, Captain Parry landed at Peter-
head, and the Hecla arrived at Sheemess on the 20th.
But one man died during this voyage — John Page, a sea-
man of the Fury — ^who med of scurvy, in Neill's Harbour,
on the 29th of August.

This voyage cannot but be considered the most unsuc-
cessful of the three made by Parry, whether as regards
the information gleaned on the subject of a north-west
passage or the extension of our store of geographical or
scientific knowledge. The shores of this !mlet were more
naked, barren, and desolate than even Melville Island.
With the exception of some hundreds of white whales,
seen sporting about the most southernmost part of the Inlet
that was visited, few other species of animals were seen.

" We have scarcely," says Parry, " ever visited a coast
on which so little of animal life occurs. For days to-
gether only one or two seals, a single sea>horse, and now
and then a flock of ducks were seen."

He still clings to the accomplishment of the great
object of a north-west passage. At page 184 of his official
narrative, he says—

" I feel confident that the undertaking, if it be deemed
advisable at any future time to pursue it, will one day or
other be accomplished ; for — setting aside the accidents to
which, from their very nature, such attempts must be
liable, as well as other unfavourable circumstances which
human foresight can never guard against, or human power
control — I cannot but believe it to be an enterprise well
within the reasonable limits of practicability. It may be
tried often and fail, for several favourable and fortunate
circumstances must be combined for its accompHshment ;
but I believe, nevertheless, that it will ultimately be
accomplished."

" I am much mistaken, indeed," he adds, " if the north-
west passage ever becomes the business of a single summer;
nay, I believe that nothing but a concurrence of very
favourable circumstances is likely ever to make a singte
winter in the ice sufficient for its accomplishment. But
there is no argument against the possibility of final success :

FjHANKLIN S SECOND EXPEDITION.

great
)fficial

[orth.-
[mer;
ivery
jingle
But
;ess:

for wo now know tliat a winter in the ice may be passed
not only in safety but in healtb and comfort."

Not one winter alone, but two and three have been
passed with health and safety in these seas, under a wise
and careful commander.

Fbanklin's Second Expedition, 1825-26.

Undaunted by the hardships and sufferings he had
encountered in his previous travels, with a noble spirit of
ardour and enthusiasm, Captain Franklin determined to
prosecute the chain of his former discoveries from the
Coppermine river to the most western point of the
Arctic regions. A sea expedition, under the command of
Captain Beechey, was at the same time sent round Cape
Horn to Behring's Straits, to co-operate with Parry and
Franklin, so as to furnish provisions to the former, and
a conveyance home to the latter.

Captain Franklin's offer was therefore accepted by the
government, and leaving Liverpool in February, 1825, he
arrived at New York about the middle of March. The
officers under his orders were his old and tried companions
and fellow sufferers in the former journey — Dr. Richard-
son and Lieutenant Back, with Mr. E. N. .Kendal, a mate
in the navy, who had been out in the Griper with Capt.
Lyon, and Mr. T. Drummond, a naturalist. Four boats,
specially prepared for the purposes of the expedition, were
sent out by the Hudson's Bay Company's ship.

In July, 1825, the party arrived at Fort Chipewyan.
It is unnecessary to go over the ground and follow them
in their northern journey ; suflBce it to say, they reached
Great Bear Lake in salety, and erected a winter dwelling
on its western shore, to which the name of Fort Franklin
was given. To Back and Mr. Dease, an officer in the
Hudson's Bay Company's service, were entrusted the
arrangements for their wmter quarters.

From here a small party set out with Franklin down the
Mackenzie to examine the state of the Polar Sea. On the
6th of September they got back to their companions, and
prepared to pass the long winter of seven or eight months.

On the 28th of June, 1826, the season being sufficiently
advanced, and all their preparations completed, the whole
parly got away in four boats to descend the Mackenzie to
the Mar Sea. Where the river branches off into several
channels, the party separated on the 3rd of July, Captain
Franklin and Lieutenant Back, with two boats and fourteen
men, having with them the faithful Esquimaux interpreter.

W ! '

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Auf]^i8tug, who had been with them on the former cxpectt*
tion, proceeded to the westward, while Dr. Eichardson
and Mr. Kendal in the other two boats, having tvn men
under their command, set out in an easterly direution to
search the Coppermine river.

Frankhn arrived at the mouth of the Mackenzie on the
7th of July, where he encountered a larpe tribe of lierco
Esquimaux, who pillaj^ed his boats, and it was only by
great caution, prudence, and forbearance, that the whole
party were not massacred. After gettiujor the boats afloat^
and clear of these unpleasant visitors, Franklin pursued
his survey, a most tedious and difficult one, ibr more than
a month ; he was only able to reach a point in latitude
70° 24' N. longitude 140° 37' W., to which Back's name
was '^iven ; and here prudence obliged him to return,
althoujh, strangely enough, a boat from the blossom was
waiting not 16^ miles west of his position to meet with
him. Tae extent of coast surveyed was 374 miles. The
return journey to Fort Franklin was safely accomplished,,
and they arrived at their house on the 21st of September,
when they found Eichardson and Kendal had returned oa
the first of the month, having accomplished a voyage of
about 500 miles, or 902 by the coast line, between th&
4th of July and the 8th of August. They had pushed
forward beyond the strait named after their boats the
Dolphin and Union.

In ascending the Coppermine, they had to abandon,
their boats and carry their provisions and baggage.

Having passed another winter at Fort Franklin, as soon.
as the season broke up the Canadians were dismissed, and
the party returned to England.

The cold experienced in the last winter was intense,
the thermometer standing at one time at 68° below
zero, but having now plenty of food, a weather-tight
dwelling, and good health, they passed it cheerfully.
Dr. Eichardson gave a course of lectures on practical
geology, and Mr. Drummond furnished information on
natural history. During the winter, in a solitary hut oa
the Eocky Mountains, he managed to collect 200 specimens
of birds, animals, &c., and more than 15C0 of plants.

"When Captain Franklin left England to proceed oa
this expedition he had to undergo a severe struggle
between the feelings of affection and a sense of duty.
His wife (he has been married twice) was then lying at
the point of death, and indeed died the day after he left
England. But with heroic fortitude she urged his depar-
ture at the very day appointed, entreating hun, as he

BEECIIEYS VOYAGE.

800IL

1, and

tense,
Ibelow
-tifjlit
['fully,
lictical
)n on
lut on.
Imens

d on

luty.

ig at

Ic left

jpar-

valued her peace and Li.^ own fJjlory, not to dt'iny n
moment on her account. Ilis feelinj»s, therefore, m;'. y be
inferred, but not described, when ho had to elevate on
C irry Island a silk Hag which slie had made and given
him aa a parting gift, with the instruction that ho was
only to hoist it on reaching the Polar Sea.

Beechey's Voyage.— 182G-28.

H.M. SLOOP Blossom, 26, Captain F. W. Beechcy, sailed
from Spithead on the 19th of May, 1825, and her instructions
directed her, after surveying some of the islands in tho
Pacific, to bo in Behring's Straits by the summer or
autumn of 1826, and contingently in that of 1827.

It is foreign to my purpose here to allude to thoso
parts of her voyage anterior to her arrival in the Straits.

On the 28th of June the Blossom came to an anchor off
the town of Petropolowski, where she feU in with the
Kusaian ship of war Modeste, under the command of
Baron Wrangel, so well known for his enterprise in the
hazardous expedition by sledges over the ico to the north-
ward of Cape Shelatskoi, or Errinos.

Captain ineechey here found despatches informing him
of the return of Pairy's expedition. Being beset by
currents and other difficulties, it was not till the 5th of
July that the Blossom got clear of tho harbour, and made
the best of her way to Kotzcbue Sound, reaching tha
appointed rendezvous at Chamiso Island on the 25th.
After landing and burying a barrel of flour upon PufBn
Koek, the most unfrequented spot about the island, the
Blossom occupied the time in surveying and examining'
the neighbouring coasts to the north east. On the 30th
she took her departure from the island, erecting posts or
land-marks, and burying despatches at Cape Krusenstem,
near a cape which he named after Franklin, near Icy Cape.

The snip returned to the rendezvous on the evening of
the 28th of August. The barrel of flour had been dug
up, and appropriated by the natives.

On the first visit of one of these parties, they con-
structed a chart of the coast upon the sand, of which,
however, Captain Beechey at first took very little notice.
"They, however, renewed their labour, and performed
their work upon the sandy beach in a very ingenious and
intelligible manner. The coast line was first marked out
with a stick, and the distances regulated by the day's
journey. The hills and ranges of mountains were next
shown by elevations of sand or stone, and the islands

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

li I,

')4

represented by heaps of pebbles, their proportions being
duly attended to. As the work proceedea some of the
bystanders occasionally sugpfested alterations, and Cap-
tain Beechey moved one of the Diomedo Islands, which
was misplaced. This was at first objected to by the
hydrographcr, but one of the party recollecting that the
islands were seen in one from Cape Prince of Wales,
confirmed its new position and made the mistake quite
evident to the others, who were much surprised that
Captain Beechey should have any knowledge of the
subject. When the mountains and islands were erected,
the villages and fishing-stations were marked by a number
of sticks placed upriglit, in imitation of those which are

fut up on the coast wherever these people fix their abode,
n time, a complete hydrographical plan was drawn from
Capo Derby to Cape Kirusenstern.

This ingenuity and accuracy of description on the part
of the Esquimaux is worthy of particular remark, and has
been verified by almost all the Arctic explorers.

The barge ■w'hich had been despatched to the eastward,
under charge of Mr. Elson, reached to lat. 71° 23' 31" N.,
and long. 156° 21' 30" W., when she was stopped by the
ice which was attached to the shore. The farthest tongue
of land they reached, was named Point Barrow, and is
about 126 nules north-east of Icy Cape, being only about
150 or 160 miles from Franklin's discoveries west of the
Mackenzie river.

The wind suddenly changing to south-west, the compact
body of ice began to drift with the current to the north-
east at the rate of 3^ miles an hour, and Mr. Elson, finding
it difficult to avoid large floating masses of ice, was obliged
to come to an anchor to prevent being driven back. "It was
not long before he was so closely beset in the ice,thatno clear
water could be seen in any direction from the hills, and the
icecontinuing to pressagainst the 8hore,his vessel was driven
upon the beach, and there left upon her broadside in a
most helpless condition ; and to add to his cheerless pros-
pect, the disposition of the natives, whom he found to
increase in numbers as he advanced to the northward, was
of a very doubtful character. At Point Barrow, where
they were very numerous, their overbearing behaviour,
and the thefts they openly practised, left no doubt of what
would be the fate of his little crew, in the event of their
falling into their power. They were in this dilemma
several days, during which every endeavour was made to
extricate the vessel but without effect, and Mr. Elson con-
templated sinking her secretly in a lake that Mas near, to

BEECHEYS VOYAGE.

cing

the
Cap-
hich

the
ttlie
ales,
:iuite

that
tlie
;cted,
mber
h. are
bode,
.from

part
id lias

Dward,

1" N.,
jy tlie
:ongue
and is
about
of the

^mpact
lorth-
inding
3a
[It was
clear
id the
:iven.
in a
pros-
Ind to
I, was
?here
Iviour,
what
their
;mma
Ide to
con-
r, to

prevent her falling into the hands of the Esquimaux, and
then making his way along the coast in a baidar, which he
had no doubt he should be able to purchase from the
natives. At length, however, a change of wind loosened
the ice, and after considerable labour and trial, in which
the personal strength of the officers was united to that of
the seamen, Mr. Elson, with his shipmates, fortunately
succeeded in effecting their escape.

Captain Beechey was very anxious to remain in Kotzebue
Sound until the end of October, the period named in his
instructions, but the rapid approach of winter, the danger
of being locked up, having onlv five weeks* provisions
left, and the nearest point at which he could replenish being
some 2000 miles distant, induced his officers to concur with
him in the necessity of leaving at once. A barrel of flour
and other articles were buried on the sandy point of
Chamiso, for Franklin, which it was hoped would escape
the prying eyes of the natives.

After a cruise to California, the Sandwich Islands, Loo-
choo, the Benin Islands, &c., the Blossom returned to
Chamiso Island on the 5th of July, 1827. They found
the flour and despatches they had left the previous year
unmolested. Lieut. Belcher was despatched in the barge
to explore the coast to the northward, and the ship fol-
lowed her as soon as the wind permitted. On the 9th of
September, when standing in for the northern shore of
Kotzebue Sound, the ship drifting with the current took
the ground on a sand-bank near Hotham Inlet, but the
wind moderating, as the tide rose she went off the shoal
apparently without injury.

After this narrow escape from shipwreck they beat up
to Chamiso Island, which they reached on the 10th of
September. Not finding the barge returned as expected,
the coast was scannec^ and a signal of distress found
flying on the south-west point of Choris Peninsula, and
two men waving a white cloth to attract notice. On land-
ing, it was found that this party were the crew of the
barge, which had been wrecked in Kotzebue Sound, and
three of the men were also lost.

On the 29th a collision took place with the natives,
which resulted in three of the seamen and four of the
marines being wounded by arrows, and one of the natives
killed by the return fire.

After leaving advices for Franklin as before, the Blossom
finally left Chamiso on the 6th of October. In a haze and
strong wind she ran between the land and a shoal, and a
passage had to be forced through breakers at the imminent

PK0GRES3 OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

\'*>.

danger of the ship's striking?. The Blosaom then made t!i«j
best of her way home, reaching England in the first week
of October, 1828.

Pabry's Fourth, or Polar Voyage, 1827.

In ]82G, Capt. Parry, who had only returned from his
lost voyage in the close of the preceding year, was much
struck by the suggestions of Mr. Scoresby, in a paper read
before the Wemerian Society, in which ne sketch od out
a plan for reaching the higher latitudes of the Polar Sea,
north of Spitzbergen, by means of sledge boats drawn
over the smooth fields of ice which were known to prevail
in those regions. Col. Beaufoy, F.S..S., had also suggested
this idea some years previously. Comparing these with a
similar plan originally proposed by Capt. Franklin, and
which was placed in nis hands by Mr. Barrow, the Secre-
tary of the Admiralty, Capt. Parry laid his modified views
of the feasibility of the project, and his willingness to
undertake it, before Lord Melville, the First Lord of the
Admiralty, who after consulting with the President and
Council of the Royal Society, was pleased to sanction the
attempt ; accordingly, his old ship, the Hecla, was fitted
out for the voyage to Spitzbergen, the following officers (all
of whom haa been with Parry before,) and crew being
appointed to her : —

Hecla.

Captain— W. E. Parry.

Lieutenants — J. C. Koss, Henry Foster,

E. J. Bird, F. R. M. Crozier.
Purser — James Halse.
Surgeon— C, J. Beverley.

On the 4th of April, 1827, the outfit and preparations
being completed, the Hecla left the Nore for the coast
of Isorway, touching at Hammerfest, to embark eight
reindeer, and some moss {Cenomyce rangiferiha) sufficient
for their support, the consumption being about 4 lbs. per
day, but they can go without food several days. A
tremendous gale of wind, experienced off Hakluyt's
Headland, and the quantity of ice with which the ship
was in consequence beset, detained the voyagers for
nearly a month, but on the 18th of June, a southerly wind
dispersing the ice, they dropped anchor in a cove, on the
northern coast of Spitzbergen, which appeared to offer a
secure haven, and to w\»i3i the name of the ship was

week

>m bis

mueli
)r read
3d out
ir Sea,
drawn
prevail
rgcstcd
with a
in, and

Secre-
i views
less to

of the
?nt and
tion the
s fitted

^ers (all
being

kster,

rations
coast
eight
Ifficient
)S. per
A
kluyt's
|e ship
fs for
wind
)n the'
^ffer a
was

TARRYS FOURIH VOYAGE,

given. On the 20(h, the bouts, -which had been sj>o(ialiy
prepared in England for this kind of journey, were got out
and made ready, and they left the ship on the 22nd of June.
A description of these boats may not here be out of place.

They were twenty feet long and seven broad, fiat floored,
like ferry boats, fecrengthoned and made elastic by sheets
of felt between the planking, covered with water]>roof
canvHss. A runner attadicd to each side of the keel,
adapted them for ctmy draught on the ice after the manner
of a sled<2re. The v were al.-.a fitted with wheels, to be used
if deemea expedient and useful. Two oiBeers and twelve
men were attached to inch boat, and thty were named
the Enterprise and the Endeavour. The weight of each
boat, including provisions and every requisite, was about
3780 lbs. Lieuts. Crozier and Foster were left on board,
and Capt. Pairy took with him in his bo.it Mr. Beverley,
Surgeon, while Lieut, (now Capt. Sir tlames) Eoss, and
Lieut, (now Commander) Bird, had charge of the other.

The reindeer and the wheels were given up as useless,
owing to the rough nature of the ice. Provisions for 7 1 days
were taken — the daily allowance per man on the journey
being 10 ozs. biscuit, 9 ozs. pcmmican, 1 oz. sweetened
cocoa powder (being enough to make a pint), and one gill
of rum ; but scanty provision in snch a clunate for men em-
ployed on severe labour ; three ounces of tobacco were
also sen'cd out to each per week.

As fuel was too bulky to transpoi't, spirits of wine were
consumed, which answered all the purposes required, a pint
twice a day being found sufficient to warm each vessel,
when applied to an iron boiler by a shallow lamp with
seven wicks. After floating the boats for about eighty
miles, they came to an unpleasant mixed surface of ice and
water, here their toilsome journey commenced, the boats
having to be laden and unladen several times accord-
ing as they came to floes of ice or lanes of water, and they
were drifted to the southward by the ice at the rate of four
or five miles a day. PaiTy found it more advantageous
to travel by night, the snow being then harder, and the
inconvenience of snow blindness being avoided, while the
party enjoyed greater warmth during the period of rest,
and had better opportunities of drying then* clothes by
the sun.

I cannot do better than quote Parry's graphic de ^t-rip-
tion of this novel course of proceeding : — " Travellmg by
night, and sleeping by day, so completely inverted the
natural order of things that it was difficult to persuade
ourselves of the reality. Even the officers and myself

'?'••

100

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

liVK

who were all fumislied with pocket chronometers, could
not always bear in mind at what part of the twenty-four
hours we had arrived ; and there were several of the men
who declared, and I believe truly, that they never knew
night from day during the whole excursion.

" When we rose in the evening, we commenced our day
by prayers, after which we took oflf our fur sleeping-
dresses and put on clothes for travelling; the former being
made of camlet lined with racoon skin, and the latter of
strong blue cloth. We made a point of always patting on
the same stockings and boots for travelling in, whether
they had been dried during; the day or not, and I believe
it was only in five or six mstances at the most that they
were not either still wet or hard frozen. This indeed waa
of no consequence, beyond the discomfort of first patting
them on in this state, as they were sure to be thoroughly
wet in a quarter of an hour after commencing our
iourney; wmle, on the other hand, it was of vital
importance to keep dry things for sleeping in. Being
* rigged' for travelling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa
and biscuit, and after stowing the things in the boats, and
on the sledges, so as to secure them as much as possible
from wet, we set off on our day's journey, and usually
travelled four, five, or even six hours, according to cir-
cumstances."

In five days, notwithstanding their perseverance and
continued journeys, they found, by observation at noon,
on the 30th, that they had only made eight miles of direct
northing.

At Walden Island, one of the Seven islands, and Little
Table Island, reserve supplies of provisions were deposited
to fall back upon in case of necessity.

In halting early in the morning for the purposes of
rest, the boats were hauled up on the largest piece of ice
that offered the least chance of breaking through, or
of coming in contact with other masses, the snow or wet
was cleaned out and the sails rigged as awnings. " Every
man then immediately put on dry stockings and fur
boots, after which we set about the necessary repairs of
boats, sledges, or clothes, and after serving the provisions
for the succeeding day, we went to supper. Most of the
oflicers and men then smoked their pipes, which served to
dry the boats and awnings very much, and usually raised
the temperature of our lodgings 10° or 15°. T'his part
of the twenty-four hours was often a time, and the only
one, of real enjoyment to us ; the men told their storiesi

could
-foup
) men
knew

ir day

jping-

beiag

bterof

ingoiL

bether

)eliev©

it they

ed was

tatting

oughly

Qg our

f vital

Being
a cocoa
its, and
;)08£ible
TiBually

to cir-

Lce and
noon,
direct

Little
)Osited

jses of
of ice
[gh, or
lor wet
1 Every
id fur
iairs of
visions
|of the
red to
Iraised
|s part
only
tories,

PARRY S FOURTH VOYAGE.

101

and fought all their battles o'er again, and the labours of
the day, unsuccessful as they too often were, were for-
gotten. A regular watch was set during our resting time
to look out for bears, or for the ice breaking up round
us, as well as to attend to the drying of tho clothes, each
man alternately taking this duty for one hour. We then
concluded our day with prayers, and having put on our
fur dresses, lay down to sleep with a degree of comfort
which perhaps few persons would imagine possible under
such circumstances, our chief inconvenience being, that
we were somewhat pinched for room, and therefore
obliged to stow rather closer than was quite agreeable."

This close stowage may be imagined when it is remem-
bered that thirteen persons had to sleep in a boat seven
feet broad. After sleeping about seven hours, they were
roused from their slumbers by the sound of a bugle from
the cook and watchman, which announced that their cocoa
was smoking hot, and invited them to breakfast.

Their progress was of the most tedious and toilsome
character, heavy showers of rain rendering the ice on many
occasions a mass of " slush ;" on others there was from six
to eighteen inches of snow lying on the surface. Frequently
the crew had to proceed on their hands and knees to
secure a footing, and on one occasion they made such a
snail-like progress that in two hours they only accom-
plished 150 yards. On the 12th of July they haa reached
the latitude of 82° 14' 28". After five ho\irs' unceasing
labour on the 14th, the progress was but a mile and a half
due north, though from three to four miles had been
traversed, and ten at least walked, having made three
journeys a great part of the way ; launched and hauled
up the boats four times, and dragged them over twenty-
five separate pieces of ice. On the 18th, after eleven
hours of actual labour, requiring for the most part the
exertion of the whole strength of the party, they had
travelled over a space not exceeding four miles, of which
only two were made good.

But on halting on the morning of the 20th, having
by his reckoning accomplished six and a half miles
in a N.N.W. direction, the distance traversed being ten
mUes and a half, Parir found to his mortification from
observation at noon, that they were iiotjive miles to the
northward of their place at noon on the 17th, although
they had certainly travelled twelve miles in that direction
since then.

On the 21st a floe of ice on which they had lodged the

103

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

,hM

A _'.;_

l^B' '-' '^ ^

'^H i 'i'k

w^M''^

■1
■ 1

^H''

■i

boats and sledges, broke with their weight, and all went
through with several of the crew, who with the sledget
were providentially saved.

On the 23rd the farthest northerly point was reached,
which was about 82° 45'.

At noon on the 26th, the weather being clear, the
meridian altitude of the sun was obtained, "by which,"
says Pai'ry, ** we found ourselves in latitude 82° 40' 23",
so that since our last observation (at midnight on the
22nd) we had lost by drift no less than thirteen and a half
mUes, ibr we vrere now more than three miles to the
southward of that observation, though we had certainly
travelled between ten and eleven due north in this
interval ! Again, we were but one mile to the north of
our place at noon on the 21st, though wo had estimated
our distance made good at twenty-three miles." After
encoimtering every species of fatigue and disheartening
obstacles, in peril of their lives almost every hour. Parry
now became convinced that it was hopeless to pursue the
journey any further, and he could not even reach the
eighty-third parallel ; for after thirty-five days of con-
tinuous and most fatiguing drudgery, with half their
resources expended, and the middle of the season arrived,
he found that the distance gained in their laborious
travelling was lost by the drift and set of the ice with the
southerly current, during the period of rest. After
planting their ensigns and pennants on the 26th, and
making it a day of rest, on the 27th the return to the
southward was commenced. Nothing particular occurred.
Lieutenant Ross managed to bring down with his gun a
fat she bear, which came to have a look at the boats, and
after gormandizing on its flesh, an excess which may be
excused considering it was the first fresh meat they liad
tasted for many a day, some symptoms of indigestion
manifested themselves among the party.

On the outward journey veiy little of animal life
was seen. A passing gull, a solitary rotge, two seals,
and a couple of flies, were all that their eager eyes could
detect. But on their return these became more numerous.
On the 8th of August seven or eight narwhals were seen,
and not less than 200 rotges, a nock of these little birda
occurring in every hole of water. On the 11th, in latitude
81° 30', the sea was found crowded with shrimps and
other sea insects, on which numerous birds were feeding.
On this day they took their last meal on the ice, being
fifty miles custant from Table Island, having accomplished
in fifteen days what had taken them thirl y-three to effect

. VTPnt
edges

icliedy

r, the
hich,"
0' 23",
•n the
a half
to the
rtainly
n this
orth of
imated
After
•tening
Parry
3ue the
Lch the
)f con-
f their
irrived,
orious
ith the
After
, and
;o the
lurred.
gun a
and
lay be
?y liad
jestion

|al life

seals,

could

lerous.

seen,

birds

Ititude

and

jding.

jbein^

Hshed

(effect

parry's fourth voyage.

103

on their outward ioumey. On the 12th they arrived at
this island. The bears had walked off with the relay of
bread which had been deposited there. To an islet lying
off Table Island, and tne most northern known land
npon the globe, Parry gave the name of Eoss, for " no
individual," he observes, "could have exerted himself
more strenuously to rob it of this distinction."

Putting to sea again, a storm obliged the boats to bear
up for Walden Island. "Everything belonging to us
(says Captain Parry) was now completely drenched by the
spray and snow ; we had been fifty-six hours without rest,
and forty-eight at work in the boats, so that by the time
they were unloaded we had barely strength left to haul
them up on the rocks. However, by dint of great exer-
tion, we managed to get the boats above the surf; after
which a hot supper, a blazing fire of drift wood, and a
few hours quiet rest, restored us."

They finally reached the ship on the 2l8t of August,
after sixty-one days' absence.

** The distance traversed during this excursion was 569
geographical miles ; but allowing for the times we had to
return for our baggage during the greater part of the
journey over the ice, we estimated our actual travelling
at 978 geographical, or 1127 statute miles. Considering
our constant exposure to wet, cold, and fatigue, our
stockings having generally been drenched in snow-water
for twelve hours out of every twenty-four, I had great
reason to be thankful for the excellent health in which,
upon the whole, we reached the ship. There is little
doubt that we had all become in a certain degree gradually
weaker for some time past ; but only three men of our
party now required medical care — two of them with badly
swelled legs and general debility, and the other from a
bruise, but even these three returned to their duty in a
short time."

In a letter from Sir W. E. Parry to Sir John Barrow,
dated November 25, 1845, he thus suggests some improve-
ments on his old plan of proceedings : —

" It is evident (he says) that the causes of failure in our
former attempt, in the year 1827, were principally two :
first, and chiefly, the broken, rugged, and soft state of the
ice over which we travelled ; and secondly, the drifting of
the whole body of ice in a southerly direction.

" My amended plan is, to go out with a single ship to
Spitzbergen, just as we did in the Ilecla, but not so early
in the season ; the object for that year being merely to
find secure winter quarters as far north as possible. For

104

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

:^i

i '

this purpose it would only be necessary to reach Hakluyt'^
Headland by the end of June, which would afford ample
leisure for examining the more northern lands, especially
about the Seven Islands, where, in all probability, a secure
nook might be found for the ship, and a starting point for
the proposed expedition, some forty or fifty miles in advance
of the point wnere the Hecla was before laid up. The
winter might be usefully employed in various preparations
for the journey, as well as in magneti'*j astronomical, and
meteorological observations, of high interest in that lati-
tude. I propose that the expedition should leave the ship
in the course of the month of April, when the ice would
present one hard and unbroken surface, over which, as I
confidently believe, it would not be diflBcult to make good
thirty miles per day, without any exposure to wet, and
probably without snow blindness. At this season, too,
the ice would probably be stationary, and thus the two
great difficulties which we formerly had to encounter
would be entirely obviated. It might form a part of the
plan to push out supplies previously, to the distance of
100 miles, to be taken up on the way, so as to commence
the journey comparatively light; and as the intention
would be to complete the enterprise in the course of the
month of May, before any disruption of the ice, or any
material softening of the surface had taken place, similar
supplies might be sent out to the same distance, to meet
the party on their return."

The late Sir John Barrow, in his last work, commenting
on this, says, " With all deference to so distinguished a
sea'Officer, in possession of so much experience as Sir
Edward Parry, there are others who express dislike of
such a plan ; and it is not improbable that many will be
disposed to come to the conclusion, that so long as the
Greenland Seas are hampered with ice, so long as floes,
and hummocks, and heavy masses, continue to be formed,
so long as a determined southerly current prevails, so long
will any attempt to carry out the plan in question, in like
manner fail. !Wo laborious drudgery will ever be able to
con(juer the opposing progress of the current and the ice.
Besides, it can har(%^ oe doubted, this gallant officer will
admit, on further consideration, that this unusual kind of
disgusting and unseamanlike labour, is not precisely such
as would be relished by the men ; and it may be said, i»
not exactly fitted for a British man-of-war's-man ; more-
over, that it required his own all-powerful example to
make it even tolerable." Sir John therefore suggested
a somewhat different plan. He recommended that two

PARRY S FOURTH VOYAGE.

105

le ice.
ir will
Indof

such
^id, \»

lore-
He to

jsted
two

small ships should be sent in the early spring along the
western coast of Spitzbergen, where usually no impedi-
ment exists, as far up as 80°. They should take every oppor-
tunity of proceeding directly to the north, wherein about
82° Parry has told us the large floes had disappeared, and
the sea was found to be loaded only with loose, discon-
nected, small masses of ice, through which ships would
find no difficulty in sailing, though totally unfit for boats
dragging ; and as this loose ice was drifting to the south-
ward, he further says, that before the middle of August a
ship might have sailed up to the latitude of 82°, ahnost
without touching a piece of ice. It is not then unreason-
able to expect that beyond that parallel, even as far as the
Pole itself, the sea would be free of ice, during the six
summer months of perpetual sun, through each of the
twenty-four hours ; which, with the aid of the current,
would, in all probability, destroy and dissipate the Polar
ice.

The distance from Hakluyt's Headland to the Pole — is
600 geographical miles. Granting the ships to make only
twenty miles in twenty-four hours, (on the supposition of
much sailing ice to go through,) even in that case it would
require but a month to enable the explorer to put his foot
on the pivot or point of the axis on which the globe of the
earth turns, remain there a month, if necessary, to obtain
the sought-for information, and then, with a southerly cur-
rent, a fortnight, probably less, would bring him back to
Spitzbergen. — Barrow's Voyages of Discovery j p. 316.

In a notice in the (Quarterly Beview of this, one of the
most singular and perilous journeys of its kind ever under-
taken, except perhaps that of Baron Wrangell upon a
similar enterprise to the northward of Behring's Straits, it
is observed, — " Let but any one conceive for a moment
the situation of two open boats, laden with seventy days'
provisions and clothing for twenty-eight men, in the midst
of a sea covered nearly with detached masses and floes of
ice, over which these boats were to be dragged, sometimes
up one side of a rugged mass, and down the other, some-
times across the lanes of water that separate them, fre>
quently over a surface covered with deep snow, or through
pools of water. Let him bear in mind, that the men had little
or no chance of any other supply of provisions than that
which they carried with them, calculated as just sufficient
to sustain life, and consider what their situation would
have been in the event, by no means an improbable one,
of losing any part of their scanty stock. Let any one try
to imagine to himself a situation of this kind, and he will

lOG

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

still have but a faint idea of the exertions which the men
under Capt. Parry had to make, and the sufferings and
privations they had to undergo."

Capt. Parry having thus completed his fifth voyage into
the Arctic regions, in four of which he commanded, and
was second in the other, it may here be desirable to give
a recapitulation of his services.

In 1818 he was appointed Lieutenant, commanding the
Alexander^ hired snip, as second officer with his uncle.
Commander John Eoss. In 1819, stiU as Lieutenant, he
was appointed to command the ITecla, and to take charge
of the second Arctic expedition, on which service he was
employed two years. On the 14th of November, 1820, he
was promoted to the rank of Commander.

On the 19th of December, 1820, the Bedfordean Gold
Medal of the Bath and West of England Society for the
Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce,
was unanimously voted to him. On the 30th of December
of that year, he was appointed to the Fury, with orders to
take command of the expedition to the Arctic Sea. With
the sum of 500 guineas subscribed for the purpose, " the
Explorer of the Polar Sea" was afterwards presented
with a silver vase, highly embellished with devices emble-
matic of the Arctic voyages. And on the 24th of March,
1821, the city of Bath presented its freedom to Captam
Parry, in a box of oak highly and appropriately orna-
mented. On the 8th of November, 1821, he obtained his
post-captain's rank. On the 22nd of November, 1823, lie
was presented with the freedom of the city of Winchester ;
and, on the 1st of December, was appointed acting-
hydrographer to the Admiralty in the place of Capt. Hind,
deceased. In 1824 he was appointed to the Hecla, to
proceed on another exploring voyage.

On the 22nd of November, 1825, Capt. Parry was for-
mally appointed hydrographer to the Admiralty, which
office he continued to hold until the 10th of November,
1826.

In December, 1825, he was voted the freedom of the
borough of Lynn, in testimony of the high sense enter-
tained by the corporation of bis meritorious and enter-
prising conduct.

In April, 1827, he once more took the command of hia
old ship, the Ilecla, for another voyage of discovery
towards the North Pole. On his return in the close of
the year, having paid off the Ilecla at Deptford, h*» re-
sumed on the 2nd of November his duties as hydro^Tapher
to tbe Admiralty* which office he held until the 13tli of

CAPTAIX ROSS's SECOND VOYAGE.

107

Le men

78 and

ye into
?d, and
to give

ng the
uncle,
ant, lie
charge
he was
820, he

in Gold
for the
imerce,
cember
rders to

With

e, " the

esented

emble-

March,

aptam

orna-
ned his
i823, he

ester ;

ting-

j. Hind,

la, to

ras for-
which
jmber,

lof the
J enter-
lenter-

lof his
|;overy

)se of
Iho re-
rapher

til of

May, 1829. Having received the honoiir of knighthood,
he then resigned in favour of the present Admiral Beau-
fort, and, obtaining permission from the Admiralty, pro-
ceeded to Sew South Wales as Resident Commissioner
to the Australian Agricultural Company, taking charge
of their recently acquired large territory in the neighbour-
hood of Port Stephen. He returned from Australia in
1831. From the 7th of March, 1835, to the 3i*d of Feb-
ruary; 1836, he acted as Poor Law Commissioner in. Nor-
folk. Early in 1837, he was appointed to organize the
Mail Packet Service then transferred to the Admiralty,
and afterwards, in April, was appointed Comptroller of
Steam Machinery to the Navy, which oflSce he continued
to hold up to December, 1816. From that period to
the present time he has filled the post of Captain Superin-
tendent of the Eoyal Naval Hospital at Haslar.

Captain John Ross's Second Voyage, 1829-33.

In the year 1829, Capt. Ross, the pioneer of Arctic explora-
tion in the 19th century, being anxious once more to display
his zeal and enterprise as well as to retrieve his nautical repu-
tation from those unfortunate blunders and mistakes which
had attached to his first voyage, and thus remove the
cloud which had for nearly ten years hung over his pro-
fessional character, endeavoured without effect to induce
the Government to send him out to the Polar Seas in
charge of another expedition. The Board of Admiralty of
that day, in the spirit of retrenchment which pervaded their
councils, were, however, not disposed to recommend any
further grant for research, even the Board of Longitude
was abolished, and the boon of 20,000^. offered by Act of
Parliament for the promotion of Arctic discovery, also
withdrawn by a repeal of the act.

Captain Ross, however, undaunted by the chilUn^ indif-
ference thus manifested towards his proposals by the Ad-
miralty, still persevered, having devoted 3000Z. out of
his own funds towards the prosecution of the object
he had in view. He was fortunate enough to meet Avith
a public-spirited and affluent coadjutor and supporter
in the late Sir Felix Booth, the eminent distUler, and
that gentleman nobly contributed 17,000^. towards the
expenses. Captain Ross thereupon set to work, and
purchased a small Liverpool steamer named the Victory,
whose tonnage he increased to 150 tons. She was pro-
visioned for three years. Capt. Ross chose for his second
in command his nephew, Commander James Ross, who had

1' !

lOS

rnooRESs op arctic discovery.

been with him on his first Arctic expedition, and had sub-
sequently accompanied Parry m all his voyages. The
other officers of the vessel were — Mr. Wm. Thorn, purser ;
Mr. George M'Diarmid, surgeon; Thomas Blanky, Thos.
Abcrnethy, and George Taylor, as 1st, 2nd, and 3ra mates;
Alexander Brunton and Allan Macinnes as 1st and 2n(l
engineers ; and nineteen petty officers and seamen ; making
a complement in all of 28 men.

The Admiralty furnished towards the purposes 6f the
expedition a decKed boat of sixteen tons, called the Kru-
senstern, and two boats which had been used by Franklin,
with a stock of books and instruments.

The vessel being reported ready for sea was visited and
examined by the late King of the French, the Lords of
the Admiralty, and other parties taking an interest in the
expedition, and set sail from Woolwich on the 23rd of
May, 1829. For aU practical purposes the steam machinery,
on which the commander had greatly reUed, was found
on trial utterly useless.

Having received much damage to her spars, in a severe
gale, the ship put in to the Damsh settlement of Holstein*
berg, on the Greenland coast, to refit, and sailed again to the
northward on the 26th of June. They found a clear sea,
and even in the middle of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's
Strait perceived no traces of ice or snow, except what ap-
peared on the lofty summits of some of the mountains.
The thermometer stood at 40°, and the weather was so
mild that the officers dined in the cabin without a fire,
with the skylight partially open. On the 10th of August
they passed Cape York, ana thence crossed over into Re-
gent Inlet, making the western coast between Seppings*
and Elwin Bay on the 16th.

They here fell in with those formidable streams,
packs, and floating bergs of ice which had offered
siich obstructions to Parry's ships. From their proxi-
mity to the magnetic pole, their compasses became
useless as they proceeded southward. On the 13th
they reached the spot where the Fuiy was abandoned,
but no remnants of the vessel were to be seen. All
her sails, stores, and provisions, on land, were, however,
found ; the hermetically-sealed tin canisters having kept
the provisions from the attacks of bears ; and the flour,
bread, wine, spirits, sugar, &c., proved as good, after
being here four years, as on the first day they were
packed. This store formed a very seasonable addition,
which was freely made available, and after increasing their
stock to two years and ten months' supply, they stiU left

ad sub-
s. The
purser ;
r, Thos.
I mates;
md 2nd
making

I 6f the
le Krti'
ranklin,

ted and
jords of
}t in the
23rd of
chinery,
>s found

I severe
iolstein-
n to the
ear sea,
arrow's
hat ap-
intains.
was 80
afire,
Lugust
5 Ee-
)pings'

reams,
)ffered
Iproxi-
lecame

13th

loned.

All

rever,

kept
[flour,

after

were

[ition,

1 their

left

CAPTAIN ROSS S SECOND VOYAGE.

109

a large quantity for the wants of any future explorers. On
the 15th, crossing Cresswell Bay, they reached 06.^,6
Garry, the farthest point which liad been seen bv Parry .
They were hero mucli inconvenienced and delayed by fogs
and floating ice. While mountains of ice were tossing
around them on every side, they were often forced to seek
safety by mooring tliemselves to these formidab masses,
and drifting with them, sometimes forward, sometimes
backward. In this manner on one occasion no less than
nineteen miles were lost in a few hours ; at other times
they underwent frequent and severe shocks, yet escaped
any serious damage.

Captain E-oss (&aws a lively picture of what a vessel en-
dures in sailing among these moving hills. He reminds
the reader that ice is stone, as solid as if it were granite ;
and he bids him " imagine these mountains hurled through
a narrow strait by a rapid tide, meeting with the noise of
thunder, breaking from each other's precipices huge frag-
ments, or rending each other asunder, tul, losing their
former equilibrium, they fall over headlong, lifting the sea
around in breakers, and whirling it in eddies. There is
not a moment in which it can be conjectured what will
happen in the next ; there is not one which may not be
the last. The attention is troubled to fix on anything
amid such confusion ; still must it be alive, that it may
seize on the single moment of help or escape which may
occur. Yet with all this, and it is the hardest task of aU,
there is nothing to be acted, — no efibrt to be made, — he
must be patient, as if he were unconcerned or careless,
waiting, as he best can, for the fate, be it what it may,
which ne cannot influence or avoid."

Proceeding southward, Boss found Brentford Bay, about
thirty miles beyond Cape Garry, to be of considerable
extent, with some fine harbours. Landing here, the
British colours were unfurled, and the coast, named after
the promoter of the expedition, was taken possession of in
the name of the king. Extensive and commodious har-
bours, named Ports Logan, Elizabeth, and Eclipse, were
discovered, and a large bay, which was called Mary Jones
Bay. By the end of September, the ship had examined
300 miles of undiscovered coast. The winter now set in
with severity, huge masses of ice began to close around
them, the thermometer sank many degrees below freezing
point, and snow fell very thick. By sawing through the
ice, the vessel was got into a secure position to pass the
winter, in a station which is now named on the maps Feiix
Harbour. The machinery of the steam-engine was done

110

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

•| -J ■■

away with, the vessel housed, and every measure that could
fkid to the comfort of the crew adopted. They had abun-
^•«^ce of fuel, and provisions that might easily oe extended
to three years.

On the 9th of January, 1831, they were visited by a
iar<Te tribe of Esquimaux, who were better dressed and
cleaner than those more to the northward. They dis-
played an intimate acquaintance with the situation and
bearinp^s of the country over whicli they had travelled,
and two of them drew a very fair sketch of the neij]^h-
bourin*^ coasts, with which they were familiar ; this
was revised and corrected by a learned lady named
Teriksin, — the females seeminfr, from this and former in-
stances, to have a clear knowledge of the hydrography and
geography of the continent, bays, straits, and rivers
which they had once traversed.

On the 5th of April, Commander Boss, with Mr. Blanky,
the chief mate, and two Esquimaux guides, set out to ex-
plore a strait which was reported as lying to the westward,
and which it was hoped might lead to the western sea.
After a tedious and arduous journey, they arrived, on the
third day, at a bay facing to the westward., and discovered,
further inland, an extensive lake, called by the natives
Nie-tyel-le, whence a broad river flowed into the bay.
Their guides informed them, however, there \^as no
prospect of a water communication south of their present
position. Capt. Ross then traced the coast fifty or sixty
miles further south.

Several journeys were also made by Commander Boss,
both inland and along the bays and inlets. On the 1st of
May, from the top of a high nill, he obsti red a large inlet
which seemed to lead to the western sea. In order to
satisfy himself on this point, he set out again on the 17th
of jMay, with provisions for three weeks, eight dogs, and
three companions. Having crossed the great middle lake
of the isthmus, he reached his former station, and thence
traced an inlet which was found to be the mouth of a
river named by them Garry. From the high hill they
observed a chain of lakes leading almost to Thorn's Bay,
the Victory's station in Fehx Harbour. Proceeding no:*'th'
west along the coast, they crossed the frozen surface of
the strait which has since been named after Sir James
Ross, and came to a large island which was called Matty;
keeping along its northern shore, and passing over a
narrow strait, which they named after Wellington, they
found themselves on what was considered to be the main-

; could
abun-
cendcd

d by a
)d and
y dis-
>n and
veiled,
neiffb-

; this
named
ner in-
hy and

rivers

31anky,

; to ex-

5tward,

rn sea.

on the

overed,

natives

e bay.

as no

resent

sixty

Boss,
1st of
inlet
[•der to
17th
, and
le lake
Ihence
of a
they
Bay,
lorth-
ice of
fames
tatty;
rer a
they
lain*

CAPTAIN ROSSS SECOND VO^

111

land, but which the more recent discoven e^ ' mp^' i\ hare
shown to be an island, and which now bears i i»r wnv )t Xin f
William's Land. Still journeying onward, wn lilliicult *
continually increasing, from heavy toil and ^ «'re pri^ -
tion, the dogs became exhausted with fatigue, aud a burdeu
ratlier than an aid to the travellers.
^ One of their greatest embarrassments was how to dis-
tinguish between land and sea. "When all is ice, and all
one dazzling mass of wliite — when the surface of the 86C
itself is tossed up and fixed into rocks, while the land is on
the contrary very often flat, it is not always so easy a
problem as it might seem on a superficial view, to deter-
miuc a fact which appears in words to be extremely
simple." Although their provisions began to fall short, and
the party were nearly worn out, Commander Eoss was most
desirous of makinpf as much western discovery as possible ;
therefore, depositing everything that could be dispensed
with, he pushed on, on the 28th, with only four days* pro-
visions, and reached Cape Felix, the most northern
point of this island, on the following day. The coast here
took a south-west direction, and there was an unboimded
expanse of ocean in view. The next morning, after having
travelled twenty miles farther, they reached a point, which
Ross called Point Victory, situated in lat. 64° 46' 19" long.
98° 32' 49", while to the mort distant one in view, estimated
to be in long. 99° 17' 58", he gave the name of Cape
Franklin. However loath to turn back, yet prudence com-
pelled them to do so, for as they had only ten days' short
allowance of food, and more than 200 miles to traverse.
there could not be a moment's hesitation in adopting this
step. A high cairn of stones was erected before leaving,
in which was deposited a narrative of their proceedings.

The party endured much fatigue and suffering on their
return journey ; of the eight dogs only two survived, and the
travellers in a most exhausted state arrived in the neigh-
bourhood of the large lakes on the 8th of June, where
^hey fortunately fell in with a tribe of natives, who
received them hospitably, and supplied them plentifully
with fish, so that after a day's rest they resumed their
journey, and reached the ship on the 13th. Capt. Ross in
the meanwhile had made a partial survey of the Isthmus,
and discovered another large lake, which he named after
Lady Melville.

After eleven months' imprisonment, their little ship
once more floated buoyant on the waves, having been
released from her icy barrier on the 17th of September,

!..JJ

■% '

113

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

but for the next few days made but little progrcse, \:t:i»fr
beaten about among the icebergs, and driven hither and
thither by the currents.

A change in the weather, however, took place, and on
the 23rd tne^ were once more frozen in, the sea in a week
after exhibiting one clear unbroken surface. All October
was passed in cutting through the ice into a more secure
locality, and another dreary winter having set in, it became
necessary to reduce the allowance of provisions. This
winter was one of unparalleled severity, the thermometer
falling 92" below freezing point. During the ensuing
spring a variety of exploratory journeys were carried on,
and in one of these Commander Itoss succeeded in planting
the British flag on the North Magnetic Pole. The position
which had been usually assigned to this interesting spot
by the learned of Europe, was lat. 70° N., and long. 98°
30' W. ; but Ross, by careful observations, determined it
to lie in lat. 70° 5' 17" N., and long. 96'"' 46' 45" W., to the
flouthward of Capo Nikolai, on the western shore of
Boothia. But it has since been found that the centre of
magnetic intensity is u moveable point revolving within
the frigid zone.

*' The place of the observatory," Ross remarks, " was
as near to the magnetic pole as the limited means which I
possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of the
dip, as indicated by my dipping-needle, was 89° 59', being
thus within one minute of the vertical ; while the prox-
imity at least of this pole, if not its actual existence where
we stood, was further confirmed by the action, or rather
by the total inaction, of the several horizontal needles then
in my possession."

Parry's observations placed it eleven minutes distant
only from the site determined by Ross.

* As soon," continues Ross, " as I had satisfied my own
mind on the subject, I made known to the party this
gratifying result of all our joint labours ; and it was then
that, amidst mutual congratulations, we fixed the British
flag on the spot, and took possession of the North Mag-
netic Pole and its adjoining territory in the name of Great
Britain and King William IV. "We had abundance of
materiiils for building in the fragments of limestone that
covered the beach, and we therefore erected a cairn of
some magnitude, under which we buried a canister con-
taining a record of the interesting fact, only regretting
that we had not the means of constructing a pyramid
of more importance, and of strength sufficient to with-
stand the assaults of time and of the Esquimaux. Had

CAPTAIN' ROSSS SECOND VOYAGE.

113

her and

, and on
1 a week
October
re secure
t became
18. This
mometer
ensuing
rried on,
L planting;
3 position
:ing spot
lon«. 98°
rmined it
V^., to the
shore of
centre of
ng within

•ks, "was
s which I
,nt of the
9', being
:he prox-
ce where
»r rather
Idles then

distant

my own

irty this

ras then

British

Lh Mag-

)f Great

lance of

me that

cairn of

ler con-

jrettinff

J>yramia

|o with-

Had

it been a pyramid as large as that of Cheops, I am not
quite sure that it would have done more than satisfy oui*
ambition under the feelings of that exciting day."

On the 28th of August, 1831, they contrived to warp
the Victory out into the open sea, and made sail on the
following morning, but were soon beset with ice as on the
former occasion, being once more completely frozen in
by the 27th of SeptemDer.

On the previous occasion their navigation had been
three miles; this year it extended to four. This pro-
tracted detention m the ice made their present position
one of gieat danger and peril. As there seemed no pro-
spect of extricating their vessel, the resolution was come to
of abandoning her, and making the best of their way up
the inlet to Fury Beach, there to avail themselves of the
boats, provisions, and stores, which would assist them in
reaching Davis Straits, where they might expect to fall in
with one of the whale ships.

On the 23rd of April, 1832, having collected all that
was useful and necessary, the expedition set out, drag-
ging their provisions and boats over a vast expanse of
rugged ice. '* The loads being too heavy to be carried at
once, made it necessary to go backward and forward twice,
and even oftener, the same day. They had to encounter
dreadful tempests of snow and drift, and to make several cir-
cuits in order to avoid impassable barriers. The general result
was, that by the 12th of May they had travelled 329 miles
to gain thirty in a direct line, naving in this labour ex-
pended a month." After this preliminary movement, they
bade a farewell to their little vessel, nailing her colours to
the mast. Capt. Boss describes himself as deeply affected ;
this being the first vessel he had been obliged to abandon
of thirty-six in which he had served during the course of
forty-two years. On the 9th of June, Commander Boss
and two others, with a fortnight's provisions, left the
main body, who were more heavily loaded, to ascertain the
state of the boats and supplies at Fury Beach. Beturning
they met their comrades on the 25th of June, re-
porting that they had found three of the boats washed
away, but enough still left for their purpose, and all
the provisions were in good condition. The remainder
of the journey was accomplished by the whole party in a
week, and on the 1st of July they reared a canvas man-
sion, to which they gave the name of Somerset House, and
enjoyed a hearty meal.

By the Ist of August the boats were rendered service-
able, and a considerable extent of open sea being visible,

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

they set out, and after much buffeting among the ice in
their frail shallops, reached the mouth of the inlet by
the end of August. After several fruitless attempts to
run along Barrow's Strait, the obstructions of the ice
obliged them to haul the boats on shore, and pitch their
tents. Barrow's Strait was found, from repeated surveys,
to be one impenetrable mass of ice. After lingering here
till the third week in September, it was unanimously agreed
that their only resource was to fall back again on the stores
at Fury Beach, and there spend their fourth winter. They
were only able to get half the distance in the boats,
wliich were hauled on shore in Batty Bay on the 24th of
September, and the rest of their journey continued on foot,
the provisions being dragged on sledges. On the 7th of
October they once more reached their home at the scene
of the wreck. They now managed to shelter their canvas
tent by a wall of snow, and, setting up an extra stove, made
themselves tolerably comfortable until the increasing
severity of the winter, and the rigour of the cold, added to
the tempestuous weather, made them perfect prisoners,
and sorely tried their patience. Scurvy now began to
attack several of the party, and on the IGth of Februaiy,
1833, Thomas, the carpenter, fell a victim to it, and two
others died. " Their situation was becoming truly awful,
since if they were not liberated in the ensuing summer,
little prospect appeared of their surviving another year.
It was necessary to make a reduction in the allowance
of preserved meats ; bread was somewhat deficient, and
the stock of wine and spirits was entirely exhausted.
However, as they had caught a few foxes, whicli were
considered a delicacy, and there was plenty of flour,
sugar, soups, and vegetables, a diet could be easily ar-
ranged sufficient to support the party."

AVhile the ice remained firm, advantage was taken of
the spring to carry forward a stock of provisions to Batty
Bay, and this, tliough only thirty-two miles, occupied
them a whole month, owing to their reduced numbers
from sickness and heavy loads, with the journeyings to
and fro, having to go over the ground eight times.

On the 8th of July they finally abandoned this dep6t,
and encamped on the 12th at their boat station in Batty
Bay, where the aspect of 'the sea was watched with
intense anxiety for more than a month. On the 15th of
August, taking advantage of a lane of water which led to
the northward, the party embarked, and on the following
morning had got as for as the turning point of their last

CAPTAIN ROSSS SECOND VOYAGE.

115

year's expedition. Making their way slowly amonj? the
masses ol ice with which the inlet was encumbered, on
the 17th they found the wide expanse of Barrow's Strait
open before them, and navigable, and reached to within
twelve miles of Capo York. Pushing on with renewed
spirits, alternately rowing and sailing, on the night of the
2oth thef rested in a good harbour on the eastern
shore of Usarj Board Inlet. At four on the following
morning they were roused from their slumbers by the
joyful intelligence of a ship being in sight, and never did
men more hurriedly and energetically set out ; but the
elements conspiring against them, after being baffled by
calms and currents, they had the misery to see the ship
leave them with a fair breeze, and found it impossible to
overtake her, or make themselves seen. A few hours
later, however, their despair was relieved by the sight of
another vessel which was lying to in a calm. By dint of
hard rowing thev were this time more fortunate, and
soon came up with her ; she proved to be the Isabella,
of Hull, the very ship in which Boss had made his first
voyage to these seas. Captain Boss was told circumstan-
tially of his own death, &c., two years previously, and he
had some difhculty in convincing them that it was really
he and his party who now stood before them. So great
was the joy with which they were received, that the
Isahella manned her yards, and her former commander
and his gallant band of adventurers were saluted with
three hearty cheers. The scene on board can scarcely
be described ; each of the crew vied with the other in
assisting and comforting the party, and it cannot better
be told than in Boss's own words : —

" The ludicrous soon took place of all other feelings ;
in such a crowd, and such confusion, all serious thought
was impossible, while the new buoyancy of our spirits
made us abundantly willing to be amused by the scene
which now opened. Every man was hungry, and was to
be fed ; all were ragged, and were to be clothed ; there
was not one to whom washing was not indispensable, nor
one whom his beard did not deprive of all human sem-
blance. All, everything too, was to be done at once : it
was washing, dressing, shaving, eating, all intermingled ;
it was all the materials of each jumbled together, while
in the midst of all there were interminable questions to
be asked and answered on both sides ; the adventures of
the Victory, our own escapes, the politics of England, and
the news which was now four years old.

I 2"

116

PKOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

i ■' • ' ■

■ i : : »

'* But all subsided into peace at last. The sick were
accommodated, the seamen disposed of, and all was done
for us which care and kindness could perform.

** Nif^ht at length brought quiet and serious thoughts,
and I trust there was not a man among us who did not
then express, where it was due, his gratitude for that
interposition which had raised us all from a despair which
none could now forget, and had brought us from the very
borders of a most distant grave, to life and friends and
civilization. Long accustomed, however, to a cold bed on
the hard snow or the bare rock, few could sleep amid the
comfort of our new accommodations. I was myself com-
pelled to leave the bed which had been kindly assigned
me, and take my abode in a chair for the night, nor did
it fare much better with the rest. It was for time to
reconcile us to this sudden and violent change, to break
through what had become habit, and to inure us once
more to the usages of our former days."

The Isabella remained some time longer to prosecute
the fishery, and left Davis Strait on her homeward
passage on the 30th of September. On the 12th of
October they made the Orkney Islands, and arrived at
Hull on the 18th. The bold explorers, who had long been
given up as lost, were looked upon as men risen from the
grave, and met and escorted by crowds of sympathizers.
A public entertainment was given to them by the towns-
people, at which the freedom of the town was presented
to Captain Ross, and next day he left for London, to
report his arrival to the Admiralty, and was honoured by
a presentation to the king at Windsor.

The Admiralty liberally rewarded all the parties, except
indeed Captain Koss. Commander J. C. Ross was appointed
to the guardship at Portsmouth to complete his period
of service, and then received his post rank. Mr. Thom,
the purser, Mr. M'Diarmid, the surgeon, and the petty
officers, were appointed to good situations in the navy.
The seamen received the usual double pay given to Arctic
explorers, up to the time of leaving their ship, and full
pay from that date until their arrival in England.

A committee of the House of Commons took up the case
of Captain Ross early in the session of 1834, and on their
recommendation 5000/. was granted him as a remuneration
for his pecuniary outlay and privations.

A baronetcy, on the recommendation of the same com-
mittee, was also conferred by his Majesty William IV.
on Mr. Felix Booth.

In looking back on the results of this voyage, no impar-

;k were
IS clone

onghts,
did not
Dr that
p wUicli
be very
ids and
bed on
oaid the
If com-
ssigned
nor did
time to
break
us once

'osecute
meward
12th of
rived at
ng been
:om the

hizers.

;owns-
esented

on, to
ired by

except

3ointed

period

Thorn,

petty

navy.

Arctic

d full

) case

their

Iration

com-
IV.

ipar-

CAPTAIN Ross's SECOND VOYAGE.

117

tial inquirer can deny to Captain Ross the merit of having
eftected much good by tracing and surveying the whole
of the long western coast of Regent Inlet, proving
Boothia to be a peninsula, and setting at rest the proba-
bility of any navigabi > outlet being discovered from this
inlet to the Polar Sea. The lakes, rivers, and islands
which were examined, proved with sufficient accuracy the
correctness of the information furnished to Parry by the
Esquimaux.

To Commander James Ross is due the credit of resolv-
ing many important scientific questions, such as the
combination of light with magnetism, fixing the exact
position of the magnetic pole. He was also the only
person in the expedition competent to make observations
in geology, natural history, and botany. Out of about
700 miles of new land explored. Commander Ross, in the
expeditions which he planned and conducted, discovered
nearly 500. He had up to this time passed fourteen
summers and eight winters in these seas.

The late Sir John Barrow, in his " Narrative of Voyages
of Discovery and Research," p. 518, in opposition to Ross's
opinion, asserted that Boothia was not joined to the Con
tinent, but that they were " completely divided by a navi-

fable strait, ten miles wide and upwards, leadmg past
Jack's Estuary, and into the Gulf (of Boothia), of which
the proper name is Akkolee, not Boothia ; and moreover,
that the two seas flow as freely into each other, as Lancaster
Sound does into the Polar Sea." This assumption has
been since shown to be incorrect. Capt. Ross asserts there
is a difference in the level of these two seas.

I may here fitly take a review of Capt. Ross's services.
He entered the navy in 1790 ; served fifteen years as a
midshipman, seven as a lieutenant, and seven as a com-
mander, and was posted on the 7th of December, 1818,
and appointed to the command of the first Arctic expedi-
tion of this century. On his return he received many
marks of favour from continental sovereigns, was knighted,
and made a Companion of the Bath on the 24th of Decem-
ber, 1834 ; made a Commander of the Sword of Sweden,
a Knight of the Second Class of St. Anne of Prussia (in
diamonds), Second Class of the Legion of Honour, and of
the Red Eagle of Prussia, and oi Leopold of Belgium.
Received the royal premium from the Geographical Society
of London, in 1833, for his discoveries in the Arctic regions;
also gold medals from the Geographical Society of Paris,
and the Royal Societies of Sweden, Austria, and Denmark.
The freedom of the cities of London, Liverpool, and

118

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Bristol ; sLx gold suufF-boxes from Russia, Holland, Den-
mark, Austria, London, and Baden ; a sword valued at 100
guineas from the Patriotic Fund, for his sufferings, having
been wounded thirteen times in three different actions
during the war ; and one of the value of 200/. from the
King of Sweden, for service in the Baltic and the White
Sea. On the 8th of March, 1839, he was appointed to the
lucrative post of British consul at Stockholm, which he
held for six years.

Captaix Back s Land Journey, 1833 — 1835.

Four years having elapsed without any tidings being
received of Capt. E-oss and his crew, it began to be generally
feared in England that they had been added to the number
of former sufferers, in the prosecution of their arduous un-
dertaking.

Dr. Eichardson, who had himself undergone such fright-
ful perils in the Arctic regions with Franklin, was the lirst
to call pubHc attention to the subject, in a letter to the
G-eographical Societjr, in which he suggested a project for
reheving them, if still aUve and to be found ; and at the
same time volunteered his services to the Colouial Secre-
tary of the day, to conduct an exploring party.

Although the expedition of Captain Ross was not under-
taken under the auspices of the Government, it became a
national concern to ascertain the ultimate fate of it, and to
make some effort for the relief of the party, whose home
at that time might be the boisterous sea, or whose shelter
the snow hut or the floating iceberg. Dr. Richardson
proposed to proceed from Hudson's Bay, in a north-west
direction to Coronation Gulf, where he was to commence
his search in an easterly direction. Passing to the north,
along the eastern side of this gulf, he would arrive at
Point Turnagain, the eastern point of his own former dis-
covery. Having accomplished this, he would continue
his search towards the eastward until he reached Melville
Island, thus perfecting geographical discovery in that
quarter, and a continued coast line might be laid down
from the Fury and Hecla Strait to Beechey Point, leaving
only the small space between Franklin's discovery ana
that of the Blossom unexplored. The proposal was favour-
ably received; but owing to the political state of the
country at that time, the offer was not accepted.

A meeting was held in November, 1832, at the rooms of
the Horticiutural Society, in Regent-street, to obtain funds.

I ,• *

T»'

CAPTAIN BACKS L.VXD JOURNEY.

id, Den-
i at 10(>
, having
actions
com the
3 White
d to the
hich he

15.

^s being
^nerally
number
ous im-

. fright-
he lirst
' to the
ject for
I at the
Secre-

under-
came a
and to
home
ihelter
rdson
west
lence
lorth,
tve at
?r dis-
itinue
jlviUe
that
Idown
ivin^
and
rour-
the

IS of
ids.

and arrange for fitting out a private relief expedition, as the
Admiralty and the Government were unable to do this
officiallj', in consequence of Capt. Ross's expedition not
being a public one. Sir George Cockburn took the chair,
and justly observed that those officers who devoted their
time to the serv^ice of science, and braved in its pursuit the
dangers of unknown and ungenial climates, demanded the
sympathy and assistance of all. Great Britain had taken,
the lead in geographical discovery, and there was not one
in this country who did not feel pride and honour in the
fame she had attained by the expeditions of Parry and
Franklin; but if we wished to create future Parrys and
Franklins, if we wished to encourage British enterprise
and courage, we must prove that the officer who is out of
sight of his countrymen is not forgotten; that there is
consideration for his sufferings, and appreciation of his
spirit. This reflection ■vsill cheer him in the hour of trial,
and will permit him, when surrounded by dangers and pri-
vations, to indulge in hope, the greatest blessing of man.
Capt. George Back, R.N., who was in Italy when the sub-

1'ect was first mooted, hastened to England, and offered td
ead the part}', and his services were accepted. A sub-
scription was entered into to defray the necessary expenses,
and upwards of 6000Z. was raised ; of this sum, at the recom-
mendation of Lord Goderich, the then secretary of state,
the Treasury contributed 2000Z.

After an interview with the king at Brighton, to which
he was specially summoned, Capt. Back made preparations
for his journey, and laid down his plan of operations. In
order to facilitate his views, and to give him greater control
over his men, special instructions and authority were issued
by the Colonial Office, and the Hudson's Bay Company
granted him a commission in their service, and placed every
assistance at his disposal throughout their territory in.
North America.

Everything be^ng definitively arranged, Capt. Back,
accompanied by L»r. Eichard King as surgeon and natu-
ralist, with three men who had been on the expedition with
Franklin, left Liverpool on the 17th of Feb. 1833, in one
of the New York packet ships, and arrived in America
after a stormy passage of thirty-five days. He proceeded
on to Montreal, where he had great difficulty in prevent-
ing two of the men from leaving him, as their hearts began,
to fail them at the prospect of the severe journey, with its
attendant difficulties, wliich they had to encounter.

Four volunteers from the !fi.oyal Artillery corps here

120

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

"" i :

joined him, and some voyageurs having been engaged, the
party left, in two canoes, on the 25 th of April. Two of
his party deserted from him in the Ottawa river.

On the 28th of June, having obtained his complement
of men, he may be said to have commenced his journey.
They suffered dreadfully from myriads of sand-flies and
musquitoes, being so disfigured by their attacks that
their features coiud be scarcely recognised. Horse-flies,
appropriately styled "bull dogs," were another dreadful
pest, which pertinaciously gorged themselves like the leech,
imtil they seemed ready to burst.

" It is in vain to attempt to defend yourself against
these puny bloodsuckers ; though you crush thousands of
them, tens of thousands arise to revenge the death of their
companions, and you very soon discover that the conflict
which you are waging is one in w hich you are sure to be
defeated. So great at last are the pains and fati^e in
bufieting away this attacking force, that in despair you
throw yourself, half suffocated, in a blanket, with your
face upon the ground, and snatch a few minutes of sleep-
less rest." Captain Back adds that the vigorous and unin-
termitting assaults of these tormenting pests conveyed the
moral lesson of man's helplessness, smce, with all our
boasted strength, we are imable to repel these feeble atoms
of creation. " How," he says, ** can I possibly give an
idea of the torment we endured from the sand-flies P As
we dived into the confined and suffocating chasms, or
waded through the close swamps, they rose in clouds,
actually darkening the air; to see or to speak was
equally difficult, for they rushed at every undefended
part, and fixed their poisonous fangs in an instant. Our
faces streamed with blood, as if leeches had been applied,
and there was a burning and irritating pain, followed by
immediate inflammation, and producing giddiness, which
almost drove us mad, and caused us to moan with pain
and agony."

At the Pine portage Captain Back engaged the services
of A. B». McLeod, in the employ of the Hudson's Bay
Company, and who had been fixed upon by Governor
Simpson, to aid the expedition. He was accompanied by
his wife, three children, and a servant; and had just
returned from the Mackenzie River, with a large cargo of
furs. The whole family were attached to the party, and
after some detentions of a general and unimportant cha-
racter, they arrived at Fort Chipewyan on the 29th of
July. Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, was reached
on the 8th of August.

CAPTAIN back's LAND JOURNEY.

121

pain

pvices

Bay

jrnor

fdby

just

roof

and

Icha-

jlied

The odd assemblage of goods and voyageurs in their en-
campment are thus graphically described by the traveller,
as he glanced around him.

" At my feet was a rolled bundle in oil-cloth, containing
some three blankets, called a bed; near it a piece of dried
buffalo, fancifully ornamented with long black hairs, which
no art, alas ! can prevent from insinuating themselves be-
tween the teeth, as you laboriously masticate the tough,
hard flesh ; then a tolerably clean napkin, spread by way
of table-cloth, on a red piece of canvas, ana supporting a
tea-pot, some biscuits, and a salt-cellar ; near this a tin
plate, close by a square kind of box or safe of the same
material, rich with a pale, greasy hair, the produce of the
colony at Red lliver ; and the fast the far-renowned pem-
mican, unquestionably the best food of the country for
expeditions such as ours. Behind me were two boxes
containing astronomical instruments, and a sextant lying
on the ground, whilst the different corners of the tent
were occupied by a washing apparatus, a gun, an Indian
shot-pouch, bags, basins, and an unhappy -looking japanned
pot, whose melancholy bumps and hollows seemed to
reproach me for many a bruise endured upon the rocks
and portages between Montreal and Lake Winnipeck. Nor
were my crew less motley than the furniture of the tent.
It consisted of an Enghshman, a man from Stornaway,
two Canadians, two Metifs or half-breds, and three Iro-
quois Indians. Babel could not have produced a worse
confusion of unharmonious sounds than was the conversa-
tion they kept up."

Having obtained at Fort Resolution all possible infor-
mation, from the Indians and others, relative to the course
of the northern rivers of which he was in search, he
divided his crew into two parties, five of whom were left
as an escort for Mr. McLeod, and four were to accompany
himself in search of the Great Fish Hiver, since appro-
priately named after Back himself.

On the 19th of August they began the ascent of the Hoar
Frost River, whose course was a series of the most fearful
cascades and rapids. The woods here were so thick as
to render them almost impervious, consisting chiefly of
stunted firs, which occasioned infinite trouble to the party
to force their way through ; added to which, they had to
clamber over fallen trees, through rivulets, and over bogs
and swamps, until the difficulties appeared so appalling as
almost to dishearten the party from prosecuting their
journey. The heart of Captain Back was, however, of too
stern a cast to be dispirited by difficulties, at which less

SI ; i

i: i

i; 'I

*| i

122

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

persevering explorers would have turned away discom-
fited, and cheering on his men, like a bold and gallant
leader, the first in the advance of danger, they arrived at
length in an open space, where they rested for awhile to
recruit their exhausted strength. The place was, indeed,
one of barrenness and desolation ; crag was piled upon crag
to the heifjht of 2000 feet from the base, and the course of
the river here, in a state of contraction, w as marked by aa
uninterrupted line of foam.

However great the beauty of the scenery may be, and
however resolute may be the will, severe toil will at length
relax the spirits, ana bring a kind of despondency upon a
heart naturally bold and undaunted. This was found
particularly the case now with the interpreter, who became
a dead weight upon the party. Eapid now succeeded
rapid ; scarcely had they surmounted one fall than an-
other presented itself, rising like an amphitheatre before
them to the height of fifty feet. They, however, gained
at length the ascent of this turbulent and unfriendly river,
the romantic beauty and wild scenery of which were
strikingly grand, and after passing successively a series
of portages, rapids, falls, lakes, and rivers, on the 27th
Back observea from the summit of a high hill a
very large lake full of deep bays and islands, and
which has been named Aylmer Lake, after the Governor-
General of Canada at that time. The boat was sent out
with three men to search for the lake, or outlet of the
river, which they discovered on the second day, and
Captain Back himself, during their absence, also accident-
ally discovered its source in the Sand HiU Lake, not far
from his encampment. Not prouder was Bruce when he
stood on the green sod which covers the source of the
Nile, than was Captain Back when he found that he was
standing at the source of a river, the existence of which
was known, but the course of which was a problem
no traveller had yet ventured to solve. Yielding to tha
pleasurable emotion which discoverers, in the first bound
of their transport, may be pardoned for indulging. Back
tells us he threw himself down on the bank and drank a
hearty draught of the limpid water.

"For this occasion," he adds, "I had reserved a
little grog, and need hardly say with what cheerfulness
it was shared amongst the crew, whose welcome tidings
had verified the notion of Dr. Richardson and myself, and
thus placed beyond doubt the existence of the Thlew-ee-
choh, or Great Fish River."

On the 30th of August thev began to move towards the

CAPTAIN' back's LAND JOURNKY.

123

le was
r'liich
poblem
to tha
Ibound
Back
tank a

pved a
lulness

idings
and

jw-ee-

la the

river, but on reacliin<; Musk-ox Lake it was found impos-
sible to stand tlie force of the rapids in their frail canoe,
and as winter was approaching their return to the rendez-
vous on {Slave Lake was determined on.

At Clinton Golden Lake, some Indians visited them
from the Chief Akaitcho, who it will be remembered was
the guide of Sir John Franklin. Two of these Indians
remembered Captain Back, one having accompanied him
to the Coppermine River on Franklin's first expedition.

At the Cat or Artillery Lake they had to abandon their
canoe, and perform the rest of the journey on foot over

Erccipitous rocks, through frightful gorges and ravines,
eaped with masses of granite, and along narrow ledges,
where a false step would have been fatal.

At Fortlleliance the party found Mr. McLeod had, during
their absence, erected the frame-work of a comfortable
residence for them, and all hands set to work to com-
plete it. After many obstacles and diflSculties, it was
finished.

Dr. King joined them on the 16th of September with
two laden bateaux.

On the 5th of JsTovcmber they exchanged their cold
tents for the new house, which was fifty feet long by
thirty broad, and contained four rooms, besides a spacious
hall in the centre, for the reception and accommodation
of the Indians, to which a sort of rude kitchen was
attached.

As the winter advanced bands of starving Indians con-
tinued to arrive, in the hope of obtaining some relief, as
little or nothing was to be procured by hunting. They
would stand around while the men were taking their
meals, watching every mouthful with the most longing,
imploring look, but yet never uttering a complaint.

At other times they would, seated round the fire, occupy
themselves in roasting and devouring small bits of their
reindeer garments, which, even when entire, afforded
them a very insufficient jjrotection against a temperature
of 102° below freezing point.

The sufferings of the poor Indians at this period are
described as frightful. "Famine with her gaunt and
bony arm," says Back, "pursued them at every turn,
withered their energies, and strewed them lifeless on the
cold bosom of the snow." It was impossible to afford
relief out of their scanty store to all, but even small
portions of the mouldy pemmican intended for the dogs,
unpalatable as it was, was gladly received, and saved many
from perishing. " Often," adds Back, " did I share my own

y^ \:

124

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

1 .

1 '

.■■

■,:, '

plate with the children, whose helpless state and piteous
cries were peculiarly distressing ; compassion for the full
^own may, or may not, be felt, but that heart must be
cased in steel which is insensible to the cry of a child for
food."

At this critical juncture, Akaitcho made his appearance
with an opportune supply of a little meat, which in some
measure enabled Captain Back to relieve the sufferers
around him, many of whom, to his great delight, went
away with Akaitcho. The stock of meat was soon
exhausted, and they had to open their pemmican. The
officers contented themselves with the short supply of
half a pound a day, but the labouring men could not do
with less than a pound and three quarters. The cold now
set in with an intensity which Captain Back had never
before experienced, — the thermometer on the 17th of
January being 70° below zero. " Such indeed, (ho says,)
was the abstraction of heat, that with eight large logs of
dry wood on the fire I could not get the thermometer
higher than 12° below zero. Ink and paint froze. The
sextant cases and boxed of seasoned wood, principally fir,
all split. The skin of the hands became dry, cracked and
opened into unsightly and smarting gashes, which we
were obliged to anoint with grease. On one occasion,
after washing my face within three feet of the fire, my
hair was actually clotted with ice before I had time to
drv it."

Ulie hunters suffered severely from the intensity of the
cold, and compared the sensation of handling their guns to
that of touching red-hot iron, and so excessive was the
pain, that they were obliged to wrap thongs of leather
round the triggers to keep their fingers from coming into
contact with the steel.

The sufferings which the party now endured were great,
and had it not been for the exemplary conduct of Akaitcho
in procuring them game, it is to be doubted whether any
would have survived to tell the misery they had en-
dured. The sentiments of this worthy savage were nobly
expressed — " The great chief trusts in us, and it is better
that ten Indians perish than that one white man should
perish through our negligence and breach of faith."

On the 14th of February Mr. McLeod and his family
removed to a place half-way between the fort and the
Indians, in order to facilitate their own support, and assist
in procuring food by hunting. His situation, however,
became soon one of the greatest embarrassment, he and
his family being surrounded by difficulties, privations, and

CAPTAIN BACK S LAND JOURNEY.

125

piteous
^e fuU
Qust be
bild for

sarance
n some
iifferers
t, went
IS Boon
. The
pply of
L not do
aid now
i never
I7tli of
e says,)
) logs of
IOmeter
e. The
tally fir,
ked and
licli we
ecasion,
fire, my
time to

of tlie

»uns to

sv^as the

leather

ng into

e great,
caitcho
ler any
lad en-
B nobly
better
should

family
nd the
d assist
)wever,
he and
as, and

deaths. Six of the natives near him sank under the horrors
of starvation, and Akaitcho and his hunters were twelve
days' march distant.

Towards the end of April Capfc. Back began to make
arrangements for constiiicting boats for prosecuting the
expeoition once more, and while so employed, on the 25tb
a messenger arrived with the gratifying intelHgence that
Capt. Ross had arrived safely in England, confirmation of
which was afforded in extracts from the Times and Herald f
and letters from the long-lost adventurers themselves.
Their feelings at these glad tidings are thus described :—
•* In the fulness of our hearts we assembled together, and
humbly offered up our thanks to that merciful Providence,
who m the beautifid lan^age of scripture hath said,
* Mine own will I bring agam, as I did sometime from the
deeps of the sea.' The thought of so wonderful a preserva-
tion overpowered for a time the common occurrences of
life. We had just sat down to breakfast ; but our appetite
was gone, and the day was passed in a feverish state of
excitement. Seldom, indeed, did my friend Mr. King or
I indulge in a libation, but on this joyful occasion
economy was forgotten ; a treat was given to the men,
and for ourselves the social synipathies were quickened by
a generous bowl of punch." Capt. Back's former inter-
preter, Augustus, hearing that he was in the country, set
out on foot from Hudson's Bay to join him, but getting
separated from his two companions, the gallant little fellow
was either exhausted by suffering and privations, or, caujjht
in the midst of an open traverse in one of those terriole
snow storms which may be said to blow almost through
the frame, he had sunk to rise no more, his bleached
remains being discovered not far from the Riviere a Jean.
** Such," says Capt. Back, " was the miserable ei\d of poor
Augustus, a faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creaturer
who had won the regard, not of myself only, but I
may add, of Sir J. Franklin and Dr. Richardson also, by
qualities which, wherever found, in the lowest as in the
highest forms of social life, are the ornament and charm of
humanity."

On the 7th of June, all the preparations being com-
pleted, McLeod having been previously sent Oii to hunt,
and deposit casks of meat at various stages, Back set out
with Mr. King, accompanied by four voyageurs and an
Indian guide. The stores not required were buried, and
the doors and windows of the house blocked uj).

At Artillery Lake, Back picked up the remainder of his
party, with the carpenters who had been employed pre*

nil

12(3

PROGIIESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

parinpr boats. The liphtost and best was chosen and
placed on runners plated with iron, and in this manner she
was drawn over tlie ico by two men and six fine dogs.
The eastern shore of the lake was fallowed, as it was found
less rocky and precipitous than the opposite one. The
marcli was prosecuted by ni«;ht, the air boin«r more
fresh and pleasant, and the party took rest in the day.
The glare of the ice, the difBcrulty encountered in gotting
the boat along, the ico being so bad that the spikes of
the runners cut through instead of sliding over it, and
the thick snow which fell in June, greatly increased
the labour of getting along. The cold raw wind pierced
through them in spite of cloaks and blankets. After
being caulked, the boat was launched on the 14tli of
June, the lake being sufficiently unobstructed to admit of
her being towed along shore. The weather now became
exceedingly unpleasant — hail, snow, and rain pelted them
one after tne other for some time without respite, and then
only yielded to squalls that overturned the boat. With
alternate spells and baitings to rest, they however gradually
advanced on the traverse, and were really making consi-
derable progress when pelting showers of sleet and drift
so dimmed and confused the sight, darkening the atmo-
sphere, and limiting their view to only a few paces before
them, as to render it an extremely perplexing task to keep
their course.

On the 23rd of June they fortunately fell in with a cache
made for them by their avante-courier, Mr. McLeod, in
which was a seasonable supply of deer and musk-ox flesh, the
latter, however, so impregnated with the odour from which
it takes its name, that the men declared they would rather
starve three days than swallow a moutliAil of it. To
remove this unfavourable impression Capt. Back ordered
the daily rations to be served from it for his own mess as
well as theirs, taking occasion at the same time to impress
on their minds the injurious consequences of voluntary-
abstinence, and the necessity of accommodating their
tastes to such food as the country might supply. Soon
after another cache was met with, thus making eleven
animals in all that had been thus obtained and secured for
them by the kind care of Mr. McLeod.

On the 27th they reached Sand Hill Bay, where they
found Mr. McLeod encamped. On the 28th the boat being
too frail to be dragged over the portage, about a quarter
of a mile in length, was carried bodily by the crew, and
launched safely in the Thlew-ee-chob or Fish Eiver. After
crossing the portage beyond Musk-ox Kapid, about four

The
more

they
beincr

uarter
■, and
After
; four

CAPTAIN BACK\S LAND JOURNKY.

127

inilos in leiifjtli, and having all his party to^'ether, Captain
Back took a Kiirvi-y of his provisions for the three months
ofojiirations, which he found to congist of two boxes of
■mnccaroni, a case of cocoa, twenty-seven ba<;8 of pem-
mican of about SOlbs. each, and a ke^ with two jjalloiis of
rinii. This he considered an adequate supply if all turned
out sound nnd ^ood. The dillicult^', however, of trans-
porting; a weight of SOOOlbs. over ice and rocks by u cir-
cuitous route of full 2(X) miles may be easily conceived,
not to mention the pain endured in walkingf on some parts
where the ice formed innumerable spikes that pierced like
needles, and in other placoH where it was so black and
decayed, that it threatened lit every step to en{j;ulf the
adventurous traveller. These and similar difiiculties could
only be overcome by the most steady perseverance, and
the most determined resolution.

Among the group of dark figures huddled together in
the Indian encampment around them, Capt. Back found
his old acquaintance, the Indian beauty ijf whom mention
is made in Sir John Franklin's narrative under the name
of Green Stockings. Although surrounded with a family,
with one urchin in her cloak clinging to her back, and
several other maternal accompaniments, Capt. Back inmie-
diately recognised her, and called her by her name, at
which she laughed, and said she was an old woman now,
and begged that she might be relieved by the •' medicine
man," for she was very much out of health. However,
notwithstanding all this, she was still the beauty of the
tribe, and with that consciousness which belongs to all
belles, savage or polite, she seemed by no means displeased
when Back sketched her portrait. — (p. ;^.07.)

Mr. McLeod was now sent back, taking with him ten
persons and fourteen dogs. His instructions were to pro-
ceed to Fort Kesolution for the stores expected to be sent
there by the Hudson's Bay Company, to build a house in
some good locality, for a permanent fishing station, and to
be again on the banks of the Fish River by the middle of
September, to afford Back and his party any assistance or
relief thev might require.

The old Indian chief Akaitcho, hearing from the inter-
preter that Capt. Back was in his immediate neighbourhood,
said, " I have known the chief a long time, and I am afraid
I shall never see him again ; I will go to him." On his
arrival he cautioned Back against the dangers of a river
which he distinctly told him the present race of Indians
knew nothing of. fle also warned him against the treachery
of the Esquimaux, which he said was always masked under

-f ' 1 ■

128

PllOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

the giiiso of friendship, observing they would attack him
when he least expected it. "I am afraid," continued the
good old chief, " that I shall never see you again ; but
should you escape from the great water, take care you are
not caught by the winter, and thrown into a situation like
that in which you were on your return from the Copper-
mine, for you are alone, and the Indians cannot assist you."

The carpenters, with an Iroquois, not being further
required, were dismissed to join Mr. McLeod, and on the
8th of July they proceeded down the river. The boat was
now launched and laden with her cargo, which, together
with ten persons, she stowed well enough for a smooth
river, but not for a lake or sea way. The weight was cal-
culated at 3360 lbs., exclusive of the awning, poles, sails,
&c., and the crew.

Their progress to the sea was now one continued succes-
sion of dangerous and formidable falls, rapids, and cataracts,
which frequently made Back hold his breath, expecting to
see the boat da^ed to shivers against some protruding
rocks amidst the foam and fury at the foot of a rapid. The
only wonder is how in their frail leakj boat they ever shot
one of the rapids. Bapid after rapid, and fall after fall,
were passed, each accompanied with more or less danger ;
and in one instance the Doat was only saved by all hands
jumping into the breakers, and keeping her stern up the
stream, until she was cleared from a rock that had brought
her up. They had hardly time to get into their places
again, when they were carried with considerable velocity
past a river which joined from the westward. After pass-
ing no less than five rapids within the distance of three
miles, they came to one long and appalling one, full of
rocks and large boulders ; the sides hemmed in by a wall
of ice, and the current flying with the velocity and force of
a torrent. The boat was lightened of her cargo, and Capt.
Back placed himself on a high rock, with an anxious desire
to see her run the rapid. He had every hope which con-
fidence in the judgment and dexterity of his principal men
could inspire, but it was impossible not to feel that one
crash would be fatal to the expedition. Away they went
with the speed of an arrow, and in a moment the foam and
rocks hid them from view. Back at last heard what
sounded in his ear like a wild shriek, and he saw Dr. King,
who was a hundred yards before him, make a sign with
his gun, and then run forward. Back followed with an
agitation which may easily be conceived, when to his inex-
pressible joy he found that the shriek was the triumphant
whoop of tie crew, who had landed safely in a small bay

tack him
nued the
^ain; but
e you are
ation like
D Copper-
sist you."
r further
id on the
boat was
together
a smooth
t was cal-
les, sails,

(d succes-

cataracts,

•ecting to

potrudiiiff

ipid. The

ever shot

after fall,

5 danger ;

[ill hands

n up the

brought

ir places

velocity

er pass-

of three

full of

)y a wall

force of

ad Capt.

IS desire

ich con-

al men

at one

ey went

am and

what

r. King,

ifn with

A'ith an

lis inex-

mphant

lail bay

CAPTAIN back's LAND JOURNEY.

ll'O

below. For nearly 100 miles of the distance thoy \> err
impeded bv these frightful whirlpools, and strong aal
heavy rapiJs.

On opening one of their bags of pemmican, the ingenuity
of the Indians at pilfering was discovered, successive
layers of mixed sand, stones, and green meat having been
artfully and cleverly substituted for the dry meat. Fearful
that they might be carrying heaps of stone instead of pro-
vision, Back had to examine carefully the remainder, which
were all found sound and well-tasted. He began to fear,
from the inclinatiou of the river at one time towards the
gou^h, that it would be found to discharge itself in Ches-
tertield Inlet, in Hudson's Bay, but subsequent!}-, to liis
great joy, it took a direct course towards the nortli, and
his hoped of reaching the Polar Sea were revived. The
river now led into several large lakes, some studded with
island.'!, which were named successively after Sir H. Pelly,
and Mr. Garry of the Hudson's Bay Company ; two others
were named Lake Macdougall and Lake Franklin.

On the 28th of July thev fell in with a tribe of about
thirty-five very friendly Esquimaux, who aided them in
transporting their boat over the last long and steep portage,
to which his men were utterly unequal, and Back justly
remarks, to their kind assistance he is mainly indeljted for
getting to the sea at all.

It was late when they got away, and while threading
their course between some sand-banks with a strong cur-
rent, they first caught sight of a majestic headland in the
extreme distance to the north, wliich had a coast-like
appearance. This important promontory Back subsequently
narv'd after our gracious Queen, then Princess Victoria.

" This then," observes Back, " may be considered as the
mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh, which after a violent and
tortuous course of 530 geographical miles, running tlirougli
an iron-ribbed country, without a sinjrle tree on tlie whole
line of its banks, expanding into five large lakes, with clear
horizon, most embarrassing to the navigator, and broken
into falls, cascades, and rapids, to the number of eighty-
three in the whole, pours its water into the Polar Sea, in
lat. 67'' 11' N., and long. 94° 30' W., that is to say, about
thirty-seven miles more south than the Coppermine Piver,
and nineteen mUes more south than that of Back's Eiver
(of Franklin) at the lower extremity of Bathurst's Inlet.
(p. 390.)

For several days Back was able to make but slow pro-
gress along the eastern shore, in consequence of the solid
body of drift-ice. A barren, rocky elevation of 800 feet

!30

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

in:

i ! >

hif^h was named Cape Beaufort, after tlie present hydro-
graplier to the Admiralty. A bluff point on the eastern side
of the estuary, which lie considered to be the northern
extreme, he named Cape Hay. Dean and Simpson, how-
ever, in 1839, traced the shore much beyond this. The
diiBculties met with here began to dispirit the ir.en.
For a week or ton days they had a continuation of >ret,
chilly, foggy weather, and the only vegetation, fern and
moss, was so wet that it would not burn ; being thus
without fuel, during this time they had but one hot meal.
Almost without water, without any means of warmth, or
any kind of warm or comforting food, sinking knee-deep,
as they proceeded on land, in the soft slush and snow, no
wonder that some of the best men, benumbed in their
limbs and dispu*ited by the dreary and unpromising pro-
spect before them, broke out for a moment, in low mur-
murings, that theirs was a hard and painful duty.

Captain Back found it utterly impossible to proceed, as
he had intended, to the Point Tumagain of Franklin,, and
after vainly essaying a land expedition by three of the best
walkers, and these having returned, after making but
fifteen miles' way, in consequence of the heavy rains and
the swampy nature of the ground, he came to the resolu-
tion of returning, lleflecting, he says, on the long and
dangerous stream they had to ascend, combining all the
bad features of the worst rivers in the country, tlie hazard
of the falls and rapids, and the slender hope which re-
mained of theu' attaining even a single mile further, he
felt he had no choice. Assembling, therefore, tlie men
around him, and unfurling the British flag, which was
saluted with three cheers, he announced to them this
determination. TJie latitude of this place was 68° 13' 57" 'N.,
and lonotude 94° 58' 1" W. The extreme point seen to
the nortnward on the western side of the estuarv, in lati-
tude 08° 46' N., longitude 90° 20' W., Back' named Cape
Eichardson. The spirits of many of the men, whose health
had suffered greatly for want of warm and nourishing
food, now brightened, and they set to work with alacrity to
prepare for their return journey. The boat being dragged
across, was brought to the place of their former station,
after wliich the crew went back four miles for their
baggage. The whole was safely conveyed over before the
evening, when the water-casks were broken up to make a
fire to Marm a kettle of cocoa, the second hot meal they
had had for nine days.

On the 15tli of August, they managed to make their
way about twenty miles, on their return to the southward.

.»_ _

CAPTAIN 2ACKS LAND JOUr.XEY.

131

throuffh a breach in tiie ice, till they came to open r, atcr.
The diiFiculties of the river were doubled in the ascent,
from having to proceed against the stream. All the ob-
stacles of rocks, rapids, sandbanks, and long portages had
to be faced. In some days as many as sixteen or twenty
rapids were ascended. They found, as they proceeded,
that many of the deposits of provisions, on which they
relied, had been discovered and destroyed by wolves.
On the 16th of September they met Mr. McLcod and his
party, who had been several days at Sand Hill Bay, wait-
ing icr them. On the 24th they reached the Ah-hel-dessy,
wlicrv.' they met with some Indians. They were ultimately
stopped by one most formidable perpendicular fall, and as
it was found impossible to convey the boat further over so
rugged and mountainous a country, most of the declivities
of wliich were coated with thin ice, and the whole
hidden by snow, it was here abandoned, and the party
proceeded the rest of the journey on foot, each laden with
a pack of about 751bs. weight.

Late on the 27tli of September thej arrived at their old
habitation, Fort Keliance, after being absent nearly four
months, wearied indeed, but '* tridy grateful for the mani-
fold mercies they had experienced in the course of their
long and perilous journey." Arrangements were now
mn i'^ to pass the winter as comfortably as their means
\^ 1 permit, and as there was no probability that there
w. ' \ uc t^uilicieiit food in the house for the consumption,
of the whole party, all except six were sent with Mr.
3IcLcod to the fisheries. The Indians brought them pro-
visions from time to time, and their friend Akaitcho, with
his followers, though not very successful in hunting,
was not wanting in his contributions. This old chieftain
was, however, no longer the same active and important
personage he had been in the days when he rendered such
gocid service to Sir John Franklin. Old age and infirmities
were creeping on him and rendering him peevish and
fickle.

On the 2 1st of March following, having left directions
with Dr. King to proceed, at the proper season, to the
Company's factory at Hudson's Bay, to embark for Eng-
land in their spring ships, Captain Back set out on his
return through Canada, calling at the Fisheries to bid
farewell to his esteemed friend, 31r. !McLeod, and arriving
at Norway House on the 2Uh of Junj, where he settled
and arran.ged the accounts due for stores, &.C., to the
Hudson's Bay Company. He proceeded thence to New
York, embarked for England and arrived at Liverpool

133

PROGRESS or ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

on the Stli of September, after au absence of two years
and a half. Back was honoured with an audience of hk
Majesty, who expressed his approbation of his efforts-
first in the cause of humanity, and next in that of j^eo-
CTaphical and scientific research. He has since been
Knighted ; and in 1835, the Royal Geographical Society
awarded liim their gold medal (the Eoyal premium) for
his discovery of the Great Fish Kiver and navigating it to
the sea on the Arctic coast.

Dr. King, with the remainder of the party, (eight men,)
reached England, in the Hudson's Bay Company's ship, in
the following month, October.

Of Captain Back's travels it has been justly observed
that it is impossible to rise from the perusal of them
without bein^ struck with astonishment at the extent of
suffering.^ which the human frame can endure, and at the
same time the wondrous display of fortitude which was
exhibited under circumstances of so appalling a nature,
as to invest the narrative with the character of a ro-
mantic fiction, rather than an unexaggerated tale of actual
reality. He, however, suffiered not despair nor despon-
dency to overcome him, but gallantly and undauntedly
pursued Lis course, until he returned to his native land
to add to the number of those noble spirits whose names
will be carried to posterity as the brightest ornaments to
the country which gave them birth.

i '

h a

Captain Back's Voyage of the Tebroe.

In the year 1836 Captain Back, who had only returned
the previous autumn, at the recommendation of the Geo-

Graphical Society, undertook a voyage in the Terror up
[udson's Strait.

He was to reach Wager River, or Repulse Bay, and to
make an overland jom'ney to examine the bottom of
Prince Regent Inlet, sending other parties to the north
and west to examine the Strait of the Fury and Hecla,
and to reach, if possible, Franklin's Point Turnagain.

Leaving England on the i4th of June, he arrived on
the 14th of August, at Salisbury Island, and proceeded up
the Frozen Strait ; off Cape Comfort the ship got frozen
in, and on the breaking up of the ice by one of those frequent
convulsions, the vessel was drifted* right up the Frozen
Channel, grinding large heaps that opposed her progress
to powder.

From December to March she was driven about by the
fury of the storms and ice, all attempts to release her

MESSRS. DEASE AXD SIMPSONS DISCOVERIES.

133

l)eing utterly powerless. She tlms floated till the 10th
of Jiily, and lor three days was on her beam-ends ; but
on the 14th suddenly righted. The crazy vessel with her
gaping wounds was scarcely able to transport the crew
across the stormy waters of the Atlantic, but the return
voyage, which was rendered absolutely necessary, was
fortunately accomplished safely.

I shall now give a concise summary of Captain Sir
George Back's Arctic services, so as to present it more
readily to the reader.

In 1818 he was Admiralty Mate on board the Trent^
under Franklin. In 1819 he again accompanied him on
his first overland journey, and was with him in all those
perilous sufferings which are elsewhere narrated. He
was also as a Lieutenant with Franklin on his second
journey in 1825. Having been in the mterval promoted
to the rank of Commander, he proceeded, in 1833, accom-
panied by Dr. King and a party, through Northern Ame-
rica to the Polar Sea, in search of Captain John Itoss.
He was posted on the 30th of September, 1835, and
appointed in the following year to the command of the
Terror, for a voyage of discovery in Hudson's Bay.

Messrs. Dease and Simpson's Discoveries.

In 1836 the Hudson's Bay Company resolved upon
undertaking the completion of the survey of the northern
coast of their territories, forming the shores of Arctic
America, and small portions of which were left unde-
termined between the discoveries of Captains Back and
Franklin.

Thev commissioned to this task two of their officers,
Mr. I'homas Simpson and Mr. Peter "Warren Dease, who
were sent out with a party of twelve men from the
company's chief fort, with proper aids and appliances.
Descending the Mackenzie to the sea, they reached and
surveyed in July, 1837, the remainder of the western
part of the coast left unexamined by Franklin in 1825,
from his Eeturn Keef to Cape Barrow, where the
Bhssomshos^s turned back.

Proceeding on from Eeturn Eeef two new rivers were
discovered — the Garry and the Colville ; the latter more
than a thousand miles in length. Although it was the
height of summer, the ground was found frozen several
Indies below the surface, the spray froze on the oars
and rigging of their boats, and the ice lay smooth and
solid in the bays, as in the depth of winter.

134

PIIOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

!■ •

On the llli of Auorust, liaviu<y left tlie boats and pro-
ceeded on by land, Mr. Simpson arrived at Elson Bay,
which point Lieutenant Elson nad reached in the Blossom*
barffo in 1826.

The party now returned to winter at Fort Confidence,
on Great JBear Lake, whence they were instructed to
prosecute their search to the eastward next season, and
to communicate if possible with. Sir George Back's expe-
dition.

They left their winter quarters on the 6th of June, 183S,
and descended Dease's Eiver. They found the Copper-
mine Eiver much swollen by floods, and encumbered with
masses of floating ice. The rapids they had to pass wero
very perilous, as may be inferred from the follo\^'iug
graphic description : —

" We had to pull for our lives to keep out of the suction
of the precipices, along whose base the breakers raged and
foamed with overwhelming fury. Shortly before noon, we
came in sight of Escape Eapid of Franklin ; and a glance at
the overhanging cliffs told ua that there was no alternative
but to run down with full cargo. In an instant," continues
Mr. Simpson, **we were in the vortex; and before we
were aware, my boat was borne towards an isolated rock,
which the boiling surge almost concealed. To clear it
on the outside was no longer possible ; our only chance
of safety was to run between it and the lofty eastern cliff.
The word was passed, and every breath was Lushed. A
stream which dashed down upon ns over tbe brow of
the precipice more than 100 feet in height, mingled
with the spray that whirled upwards from the rapid,
forming a tenific shower-bath. The pass was about eight
feet wide, and the error of a single foot on either side
would have been instant destruction. As, guided by
Sinclair's consummate skill, the boat shot safely through
those jaws of death, an involuntary cheer arose. Our next
impulse was to turn round to view the fate of our com-
rades behind. They had profited by the peril we incurred,
and kept Avithout the treacherous rock in time."

On the Ist of July they reached the sea, and encamped
at the mouth of the river, where they waited for the
opening of the ice till the 17th. They doubled Cape
Barrow, one of the northern points of Bathurst's Lilet, on
the 29th, but were prevented crossing the inlet by the
continuity of the ice, and obliged to make a circuit of
nearly 150 miles by Arctic Somid.

Some very pure specimens of copper ore were found on
one of the Barry Islands. After doubling Cape Fliudcre

iiii

MESST^S. DEASE AND SIMFSON's DlSCOVEllIES. 13

ass vrero

en tho 9th of Aufjust, the boats were arrested hv the ice
in a little bay to ■svhich the name of Boat-haven was pireu.
situate about three miles from Franklin's farthest. Here
the boats linGjered for the best part of a month in utter
hopelessness. Mr. Simpson pushed on therefore on the
2' )th, with an explorin*^ party of seven men, provisioned
for ten days. On the first day they passed Point Turn-
a;;ain, the limit of Franklin's survey in 1821. On the 23rd
tho;^ had reached an elevated cane, with land apparently
closing all round to the northward, so that it was feareci
they had only been traversing the coast of a huge bay-
But the perseverance of the adventurous explorer was fully
rewarded.

" With bitter disappointment," writes Mr. Simpson, " I
ascended the height, from v.hence i v ..t and splendid
prospect burst suddenly upon me. Tho sea, as if trans-
formed by enchantment, rolled its free waves at my feet,
and beyond the reach of vision to the eastward. Islands
of various shape and size overspread its surface ; and the
northern land terminated to the eye in a bold and lofty
cape, bearing east-nortli-east, thirty or forty miles distant,
while the continental coast trended away south-east. I
stood, in fact, on a remarkable headland, at the eastern
outlet of an ice-obstructed strait. On the extensive land
to the northward I bestowed the name of our most
gracious sovereign Queen Victoria. Its eastern visible
extremity I called Cape Pellv, in compliment to the
governor of the Hudson's Bay Company."

Having reached the limits which prudence dictated in
the face of the long journey back to the boats, many of
his men too being lame, Mr. Simpson retraced his steps,
and the party reached Boat-haven on the 29th of August,
having traced nearly 140 miles of new coast. The boats
were cut out of their icy prison, and commenced their
re-ascent of the Coppermine on the 3rd of September.
At its junction with the Kendal Eiver they left their boats,
and, shouldering their packs, traversed the Barren
Grounds, and arrived at their residence on the lake by
the 14th of September.

The following season these persevering explorers com-
menced their third voyage. They reached the Bloody
Fall on the 22nd of June, 1839, and occupied themselves
for a week in carefully examining Eichardson's Elver,
which was discovered in the previous year, and discharges
itself in the head of Back's Inlet. On the 3rd of July
they reached Cape Barrow, and from its rocky heights
were surprised to observe Coronation Gulf almost clear

136

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

i . i

of ice, while on their former visit it could have been
crossed on foot.

They were at Cape Franklin a month earlier than !Mr.
Simpson reached it on foot the previous year, and doubled
Capo Alexander, the northernmost cape in this quarter,
on the 28th of Julv, after encountering a violent gale.
They coasted the nuge bay extending for about nine
degrees eastward from this point, being favoured witli
clear weather, and protected by the various islands they
met from the crushing state of tho ice drifted from
seaward.

On the 10th of August they opened a strait about ten
miles wide at each extremity, but narrowing to four or
live miles in the centre. This strait, which divides the
main land from Boothia, has been called Simpson's Strait.

On the 13th of August they had passed Richardson's
Point and doubled Point Ogle, the furthest point of
Back's journey in 1834.

By the 16th they had reached Montreal Island in Back's
Estuary, where they found a deposit of provisions which
Captain Back had left there that day nve years. The
pemmican was unfit for use, but out of several pounds
of chocolate half decayed the men contrived to pick
sufficient to make a kettleful of acceptable drink in honour
of the occasion. There were also a tin case and a few
fish-hooks, of which, observes Mr. Simpson, " Mr. Dease
and I took possession, as memorials of our having break-
fasted on the very spot where the tent of our gallant,
though less successful precursor stood that very day five
years before."

By the 20th of August they had reached as far as Aber-
deen Island to the eastward, from which they had a view
of an apparently large gulf, corresponding with that
which had been so correctly described to Parry by tho
intelligent Esquimaux female as Akkolce.

From a mountainous ridge about three miles inland a
view of land in the north-east was obtained, supposed to be
one of the southern promontories of Boothia. High
and distant islands stretching from E. to E.N.E. (probably
some in Committee Bay) were seen, and two considerable
ones were noted far out in the offing. Remembering
the length and difficulty of their return route, the
explorers now retraced their steps. On their return
voyage they traced sixty miles of the south coast of
Boothia, where at one time they were not more than
ninety miles from the site of the magnetic pole, as deter-

DR. JOHN RAE's land EXPEDITION'.

137

niinccl by Captain Sir James C. Ross. On the '2oxh of
AuLTiist thev erected a high cairn at their farthest point,
near Cape llerschel.

Ahout 150 miles of the high, bold shores of Victoria
Land, as far as Capo Parry, were also examined ; "\Vel-
linirton. Cambridge, and Byron Bays being surveyed and
accurately laid down. They then stretched across Coro-
nation Gulf, and re-entered the Coppermine Elver on the
loth of September.

Abandoning here one of their boats, with the remains
of their useless stores and other articles not required,
tliey ascended the river and reached Fort Confidence on
the 2-lth of September, after one of the longest and most
successful boat voyages ever performed on the Polar Sea,
having traversed more than 1600 miles of sea.

In 1838, before the intelligence of this last trip had
been received, Mr. Simpson was presented by the Eoyal
Geographical Society of London with the Founder's Gold
Medal, for discovering and tracing in 1837 and 1838 about
300 miles of the Arctic shores ; but the vovage which I
have just recorded has added greatly to the taurels which
he and his bold companions have achieved.

Dr. John Rae's Land Expedition, 1846 — 181".

Altrofgh a little out of its chronological order, I give
Dr. Eae's exploring trip before I proceed to notice Frank-
lin's last voyage, and the different relief expeditions that
have been sent out during the past two years.

In 1846 the Hudson's Company despatched an expe-
dition of thirteen persons, under the command of Dr.
John Eae, for the purpose of surveying the unexplored
portion of the Arctic coast at the north-eastern angle of
the American continent between Dease and Simpson's
farthest, and the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.

The expedition left Fort Churchill, in Hudson's Bay,
on the 5th of July, 1846, and returned in safety to York
Factory on the 6th of September in the following year,
after having, by travelling over the ice and snow in the
spring, traced tiie coast all the way from the Lord Mayor's
Bay of Sir John Ross to within eight or ten miles of the
Fury and Hecla Strait, thus proving that eminent navi-
gator to have been correct in stating Boothia to be ji
peninsula.

On the 15th of July the boats first fell in with the
ice, about ten miles north of Cape Fullertou, and it ^ as

18S

mOGUESS OF AUCTIC DISCOVnilY.

I'.-M

MiH

i :'(

BO heavy and closely packed that they uere obliged to
take shelter in a deep and narrow inlet that opportunely
presented itself, where they were closed up two days.

On the 22nd the party reached the most southerly
opening of Wager River or Bay, but were detained the
■whole day hy the immense Quantities of heavy ice drivinjf
in and out with the flood ana ebb of the tide, which ran ai
the rate of eight miles an hour, forcing up the ice and
grinding it against the rocks with a noise like thunder.
On the hight of the 21th the boats anchored at the head
of Repulse Bay. The following da}* tiiey anchored in
Gibson's Cove, on the banks of which they met with a
small party of Esquimaux ; several of the women wore
beads round their wrists, which they had obtained from
Captain Parry's ships when at Igloolik and "Winter
Island. But they had neither heard nor seen anything
of Sir John Frank;,in.

Learning from a chart drawn by one of the natives,
that the isthmus of Melville Peninsula was only about
forty miles across, and that of this, owing to a number of
large lakes, but five miles of land would have to be
passed over, Dr. Rao determined to make his way over
this neck in preference to proceeding by Fox's Channel
through the Fury and Hecla Strait.

One boat was therefore laid up "^th her cargo in security,
and with the other the part/ set out, assisted by three
Esquimaux. After traversing several large lakes, and
crossing over six " portages," on the 2nd of August they got
into the salt water, in Committee Bay, but being able to
make but little progress to the north-west, in consequence
of heavy gales and closely packed ice, he returned to his
starting point, and made preparations for wintering, it being
found impossible to proceed with the survey at that time.
The other boat was brought across the isthmus, and all
hands were set to work in making preparations for a lon,;^
and cold winter.

As no wood was to be had, stones were collected to
build a house, which was finished by the 2nd of September.
Its dimensions were twenty feet by fourteen, and about
eight feet high. The roof was formed of oil-cloths and
morse-akin coverings, the masts and oars of the boats
serving as rafters, while the door was made of parchment
ekins stretched over a wooden frame.

The deer had alreadj^ commenced mipating southward,
but whenever he had leisure, Dr. Rae shouldered his rifle,
and had frec[uently good success, shooting on cue day
seven deer within two miles of their encampment.

DK. JOHN* RAEb LAND EXPEDITIOX.

131.

Ontho IGth of October, tho thermometer fell to zero,
and the j^reater part of the reindeer had passed ; but the
party had by this time shot 130, and durinj; the remainder
of October, and in Norember, thirty-two more were killed.
80 that with 200 partridges and a lew salmon, their snow-
built larder was pretty well stocked.

Suilicient fuel nad oeen collected to last, with economy,
for cooking, until the sprinj^ ; and a couple of seals w hick
had been shot produced oil enouf^li for their lamps. By
nets set in the lakes under the ice, a few salmon wcri-
also caught.

After passing a very stormy winter, with the temperature
occasionally 47° below freezmg point, and often an allow -
Rnce of but one meal a day, towards the end of February
preparations for resuming their 8ur>'eys in the spriuiT
were made. Sleds, similar to those used by tho natiros. were
constructed. In the beginning of March the reindeer began
to migrate northward, but were very shy. One was shot on
the 11th. Dr. Kae set out on the 5th of April, in comi)auy
with three men and two Esquimaux as interpreters, then*
provisions and bedding being drawn on sleds by four dogs.
Nothing worthy of notice occurs in tliis exploratory trip,
till on the 18th JRae came in sight of Lord Mayor's Ba}', and
the group of islands with which it is studded. The isthmus
which connects the land to the northward with Boothia,
he found to be only about a mile broad. On their return
the party fortunately fell in with four Esquimaux, from
wliom they obtained a quantity of seal's blubber ibr i'ucl and
doiTs' food, and some of the flesh and blood for their own
use, enough to maintain them for six days on half allowance.

All the party were more or less affected with snow
blindness, but arrived at their winter quarters in Kepulse
Bay on the 5 th of May, all safe and well, but as black as
negroes, from the conibined effects of frost-bites and oil
smoke.

On the evening of the 13th May, Dr. Eae again started
with a chosen party of four men, to trace the west shore
of Melville Peninsula. Each of the men carried about
70 lbs. weight.

Being unable to obtain a drop of water of nature's thaw-
ing, and fuel bemg rather a scarce article, they were
c])liged to take small kettles of snow under the blankets
with them, to thaw by the heat of the body.

Having reached to about 69° 42' N. lat., and 86° 8'
long., and their provisions being nearly exhausted, they
were obliged, much to their disappointment, to turn back,

i ll

\ll

•AM

1 I!

i|.

140

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

rvhon only within a few miles of the Ilcclaniul Fury Strait.
Early on the morning of the 30th of May, the party arrived
at their enow hut ou Capo Thomas Simpson. The men
they had left there wore well, but very tuin, as they had
neither caught nor shot anything eatable, except two
marmots, and they were preparing to cook a piece of parch-
ment skin for their supper.

" < ur journey," says Dr. Eae, " hitherto had been the
most fatiguing I had ever experienced ; the severe exercise,
with a limited allowance of food, had reduced the whole
party very much. However, wo marched men'ily on,
tightening our belts, — mine came in six inches, — the men
vowing that when they got on full allowance, they would
make up for lost time. '

On the morning of the 9th of June, they arrived at their
encampment in Eepulse Bay, after being absent twenty-
seven days. The whole party then set actively to work
procuring food, collecting fuel, and preparing the boats
for sea ; and the ice in the bay having broken up on the
11th of August, on the 12th they loft their dreary w inter
quarters, and after encountering head winds and stormy
weather, reached Churchill River on the 31st of August.

A gratuity of 100/. was awarded to Mr. Kae, by the
Hudson's Bay Company, for the important services he had
thus rendered to the cause of science.

Captain Sib John Franklin's Last Expedition,

1815—1854,

That Sir John Franklin, now nearly 9 years absent, is alive,
we dare not affirm; but that his ships should be so utterly
annihilated that no trace of them can be discovered, or if
they have beer, so entirely lost, that not a single life should
have been saved to relate the disaster, and that no traces
of the crew or vessels should have been met Avith by the
Esquimaux, or the exploring parties who have visited and
investii;ated those coasts, and bays, and inlets to so con-
siderable an extent, is a most extraordinary circumstance.
It is the general belief of those officers who have served in
the former Arctic expeditions, that whatever accident may
have befallen the JErebus and Terror, they cannot wholly
have disappeared from those seas, and that some traces of
their fate, if not some living remnant of their crews, must
eventually reward the search of the dihgent investigator.
It is possible that they may be found in quarters the
least expected. There is still reason, then, for Jio2:>e, and

y Strait.
r arrived
'he men
Lev bad
opt two
)f parch-

been the
exercise,
10 whole
n*ily on,
the men
>y would

I at their
i twenty-
to work
he boats
p on the
'v winter
1 stormy
August.
|, by the
13 he had

>1TI0N,

CAPT. Sin JOHN* FRAN'KLIN » L\ST EXPEDITION*. 1 tl

for the great and honourable exertions which tliat diriue
spark in the soul has prompted and still keeps alive.

'• There is somethinjf," nays the yl///e/j<^M;», "intensely
inton'stiufj in the picture of those dreary 8eas amid whose
stratijfe and unspeakable solitudes our lost countrymen are.
or havo been, somewhere imprisoned for so many years,
flwarminsjf with the human life tliat is risked to set them
free. No hunt was ever so excitintj — so fidl of a wild
grandeur and a profound pathos — as that which has just
aroused the Arctic echoes ; that wluu'cin their brotliors
ftnd companions have l)een beatiui^ for the track by wliich
they may rescue the lost mariners from the icy i^rasp of
the Genius of the North. Fancy these men in their ada-
mantine prison, wherever it mav be, — chained up by tho
Polar Spirit whom they had dared, — linjjerin^ throui^k
years of cold and darkness on the stinted ration tluit
scarcely feeds the blood, and the feeli; 3 hope that scirceiy
sustains tlie heart, — and then iniaijii^e th<; rush of emo-
tions to ijreet the first cry from that wild i.'uiti 'Lf-ijrijund
which should reach their ears I Throui^h ma* v sumrv-TS
has that cry been listened for, no doubt. Somethiny '-ke
an expectation of the rescue which it sliould annoui » )i is
revived with each returning season of compare tiyo li^ht.to
die of its own baffled intensity as the Ion? aarc: months
once more settled down upon their dreary |' isoniiouse. —
There is scarcely a doubt that the track beiiij^ now struck,
these long pining hearts may be traced to their lair. But
what to the anxious questioning which has year by year
gone forth in search of their fate, will be the answer now
revealed? The trail is found, — but what of the weary
feet that made it? ^We are not willing needlessly to
alarm the public sympathies, which have been s .> gene-
rously stirred on behalf of the missing men, — but we art*
bound to warn our readers against too sanguine an enter-
tainment of the hope which the fir^t tidings of the recent
discovery is calculated to suggest. ' ; is scarcely possible
that the provisions which were sufficient for three years,
and adaptable for four, can by any economy which im-
plies less than starvation have I <.en spread over mne,— and
scarcely probable that thev i?im have been made to do so
by the help of anv accidents which the place of confine-
ment supplied. We cannot hear of this sudden discovery
of traces of the vanished crews as living men, without a
wish which comes like a pang that it had been two years
ago — or even last year. It makes the heart sore to think
how close relief may have been to their hiding-place ia

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

former yoars — when it turned nvrny. There is scareely
reason to doubt that had the present circumstanceg of tlio
search occurred two years a<]fo — last year perhaps — tho
wanderers would have been restored. Another year
makes a frijjhtful difference in the odds: — and wo do not
think the public will ever feel satisfied with what has been
done in this matter if the oracle so lonjj questioned, and
silent go lonjj^, shall speak at last — and tlie answer shall be,
' It is too late.' "

In the prosecution of the noble entorpriso on which all
eves are now turned, it is not raerelv scientific research
and treoijraphical discovery that are at present occupyinjj
the attention of the commanders of vessels sent out ; the
lives of human beiuirs are at stake, and above all, the lives
of men who have nobly perilled everything: in the cause of
uatioRjil — nay, of universal progress and knowlodj^e ; — of
men who have evinced on this and other expeditious the
most dauntless bravery that any men can evince. Who
oan think of the probable fate of these gallant adventurers
without a shudder ?

Alas ! how truthfully has ^Montgomery depicted the
fatal imprisonment of vessels in these regions:—

There lies a vesisel in that realm of frost,
Xut UTecked, nt)t stranded, yet for ever lost ;
Its keel embedded in tlie solid ma«s;
Its gli*tenin,tr sails appear expimded pclass;
The transverse rojM's with pearls enormous strung,
Tlie yards with icicles grotesquely Imncr.
Wi'aitt in tlie tojimast shrouds tln're rests a boy.
His ohl sea-farin.ff father's only joy ;
Si)riinff fn)m a race of rovers, ocenn born,
IS'nrsed at tlie Iielm, he trod dry land Vv-itli scorn;
Through fourscore yer.rs from port to port he veer'd,
l^iiicksand, nor roclc, nor foe, nor tempest fcar'd;
Xow oast ashore, thoufrli like a hulk he lie.
His son at sea is ever in his eye.
//<• ne'er shall know in his ynrti'-'nhrhn cot,
Ho\v brief tliat sou's career. lKn\r stranir" his lot
Writhed ro;nid tlic mast, and sepulchred in air,
Kim shall no worm devour, no vulture tear,
CoiiLrcal'd to a<l:imant his frame shall last,
Thoucrh empires clinnjre, till time and tide be past.
Morn siiall return, and noon, and eve, and niglit
^let't here witli iuterchancin^ shade and liirht;
But troin tliat barque no limber sh-ill dooay,
Of the^o cold forms no foatiire pas-; a*rgy;
Perenniid ice around tli' oucrusted bow,
'file pe ^i)l('d.deok, and fidl-riu'^j'd masts shall gratT
Till from the sun himself the wliole be hid,
()r spied beneath a crystal pyramid ;

CAPT. ?1R JOHN FRANKLIN f? LAST EXPKPniOX. 143

A- !:i iiurc ;;jKli<.'r with (Lveriir'iit ! lus.
A .■•iip'gt'il s'.kII i-ml.)».H'd '.vitli SLU-wc'td, slriiics.
From ap* to agt- incroasi-d with unnual enow,
riiis u<.nv .y'liit Blanc unions Xhe clouds nuiy glow,
^V■llo^e conic i;cak that oarlie;t greets th'^ dawn,
And l;ite?t iVom the sun's sliut eye withdrawn,
S''ill irom the Zcuitli, through incuinbeut glocm,
Unvii like !i latnii upon tliis nuval tomb,
lint when th' iirchanpel's trumpet sounds on high.
The jile .-hall burst to atoms through the sky.
And U-aVi* its dead, ni)startin>? at tlie call,
2^akcd :\nd pal:, before the .lu.ige of i.U.

All who read those paixes will, I am sure, feel tho deepest
«Tmpailiy and admiratioTi of the zeal, perseverance, and
eonjuijal alK ction di-jplayed in the noole and untirinj^
cilorls of Lady Prniikliu to relieve cr to discover the fate
of her distinguished husband and the jrallaut party under
liis conir.iand, dei^piie the difficulties, disappointments, and
heart-siekeniniX "hope deferred" with which tliese elforts
have been atteiided. All men must feci a lively interest ia
the fate of these bold men, and be most desirous to con-
tribute towards their restoration to their country r.nd their
homes. The name of tho present Lady Franklin is as
" familinr as a household word" in every bosom in 3'hi^dand ;
she is alike the object of our admiratioji, our syinjiathy,
our hopes, and our prayers. !Nay, her name and that of
lior husband is breathed in prayer in many lands — and,
oh ! h iW earnest, how zealous, how courageous, have been
her eiibrts to iind and relieve hiT husband, for, like Des-
demonn,

*' She loved Idu; for the dangers he had pnssed,
And he lovtd her that she did pity them."

How has she traversed from port to nort, biddini^ ** God
ppeed their mission" to each public and private ship ^oinj^
forth on tho noble errand of mere}* — how freely and
.iromptly has she contributed to their comforts. IIow
las ^he watched each arrival from the north, scanned each
stray })ara«rra|)h of news, hurried to the Admiralt v on each
rumoiu', and kept up with unremittinf; labour a volumi-
nous corresponclence with :dl the (quarters of the i^lobe,
fondly wishing- that she had the win«;s of the dove, that
ehe minht ilee awa}', and be with him from ^honi Heaven
has seen lit to separate her so lon*:^.

An American poet well depicts her scutimcuta iu tho
following lines :—

i'lt

■If'

!;'T

l!;

M:;i ,

144 PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

LADY FRANKLIN'S APPEAL TO THE NOHIII.

Oh, where, my long lost-one I art thou,

'Mid Arctic seas and wintry skies ?
Deep, Polar night is on me now.

And Hope, long wrecked, but mocks my cr.iu
I am like thete ! from frozen plains

In the drear zone and sunless air,
My dying, lonely heart complains.

And chills in sorrow and despair.

Tell nu', ye Northern winds ! that sweep

Down from the rayless, dusky day —
Where ye have borne, and where ye keep.

My well-beloved within your sway ;
Tell me, when next ye wildly bear

The icy message in your breath,
Of my beloved ! Oh, tell me where

Yc keep him on the shores of death.

Tell me, ye Polar seas ! that roll

From ice-bound shore to sunny isle-
Tell me, when next ye leave the Pole,

"Where ye have chained my lord the while*.
On the bleak Northern clift' I wait

With tear-pained eyes to see ye come !
Will ye not tell me, ere too late ?

Or will ye mock while I am dumb ?

Tell me, oh tell me, mountain waves 1

Whence have ye leaped and siwung to-day ?
Have ye passed o'er their sleeping graves

That ye rush wildly on your way ?
Will ye sweep on and bear me too

Down to the caves within the deep ?
Oh, bring some token to my view

That ye my loved one safe will k 'op I

Canst thou not toll me. Polar Star !

Where in the frozen waste he kneels?
And on the icy plains afar

Ilis love to God and me reveals?
Wilt thou not send one brighter ray

To my lone heart and aching eye ?
Wilt thou not turn my night to day,

And wake my spirit ere I die ?

Tell me, oh dreary North! for now

My soul is like thine Arctic zone ;
Beneath the darkened skies I bow,

Or ride the stormy sea alone !
Tell me of my beloved ! for I

Know not a ray my lord without ?
Oh, tell me, that I may not die

A sorrower on the sea of doubt i

CAPT. SIR JOHN franklin's LAST KXPEDITIOX. 143

In the early part of 1S49 Sir E. Parry stated, that
in offering his opinions, he did so under a deep sense ot*
the anxious and even painful responsibility, both as re-
garded the risk of life, as well as the inferior consideration
of expense involved in further attempts to rescue our gal-
lant countrym'..! , or at least the surviving portion of them,
Irom their pei-'bas position.

But it was his deliberate conviction that the time had
not yet arrived when the attempt ought to be given up as
hopeless : the further efforts making might also be the
means of determining their fate, and whether it pleased
God to give success to those efforts or not, the Lords of
tlic Admiralty, and the country at large, would hereafter
be better satisfied to have followed up the noble attempts
already made, so long as the most distant hope remains of
ultimate success.

In the absence of authentic information of the fate of
the gallant band of adventurers, it was well observed, that
the terra incognita of the northern coast of Arctic America
would not only be traced, but minutely surveyed, and the
solution of the problem of centuries engage the marked
attention of the House of Commons and the legislative
assemblies of other parts of the world. Official and private
enterprise have achieved all that was desired. Is'ot only
have most important geographical discoveries been made,
new bay8,islands, channels, sounds and inlets been laid down
on our maps, reflecting credit on the industry, energy and
})erseverance of Englishmen, but, what is more important
still, many clues of the link guiding us to the ultimate
fate of the missing Arctic voyagers have been found.
Unfortunately the track has been struck too late to be
of use towards recovering any living, but the tidings of
the dead are of national and individual importance. Even
if they reopen sorrow in many a mourning breast, any
intellif/enee, however sad, is better than incertitude and
ignorance. AVe like to know the worst, and there is even
consolation in knowing when and how they died.

Capt. Sir James Ross having returned successful from
his Antarctic expedition in the close of the preceding vear,
in the spring of 1815, the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, upon the recommendation of Sir John Barrow,
detennined on sending out another expedition to the
North Pole.

Accordingly the command was given to Sii* John
Franklin, who re-commissioned the Erehus and Terror, the
two vessels which had just returned from the South Polar
Seas. The expedition sailed from Sheerness on the 2Gth.

'J J 1 ^1

ihi:

146

mOGBESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT.

fi !:

'■« .

»;

of May, 1845. The following were the officers belonging to
those vessels :—

Evehus.

Captain — Sir John Franklin, K.C.H.

Commander — James Fitzjames (Capt.)

Lieutenants — Graham Gore (Commander), Henry T. D.

Le Vesconte, James William Fairholme.
Mates — Chas. F. des Vajux (Lieut.), Robert O. Sergeant

(Lieut.)

Second Master — Henry F. Collins.
Surgeon — Stephen S. Stanley.
Assistant-Surgeon — Harry I). S. Goodsir (acting).
Paymaster and Purser — Chas. H. Osmer.
Ice-master — James Keid, acting.
58 Petty Officers, Seamen, <fec.

Full complement, 70.

Captain^Fras. R. M. Crozier.

Lieutenants — Edward Little (Commander), Geo. H.

Hodgson, John Irving.
Mates — Frederick J. Hornby (Lieut.), Robert Thomas

(Lieut.)
Ice-master — T. Blanky (acting).
Second Master — G. A. Mac bean.
Surgeon — John S. Peddie.
Assistant- Surgeon — Alexander McDonald.
Clerk in Charge — Edwin J. H. Helpman.
57 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c.

Full complement, 68.

Those officers whose rank is within parenthesis were
promoted during their absence.

The following is an outline of Capt. Franklin's services
as recorded in O'Byrne's Naval Biography : —

Sir John Franklin. Kt., K.R.G., K.C.H., D.C.L.,
F.R.S., was born in 1786 at Spilsby, in Lincolnshire, and
is brother of the late Sir W. Franklin, Kt., Chief Justice
of Madras. He entered the navy in October, 18CH), as a
boy on board the Polyphemus, 64, Captain John Lawford,
under whom he served as midshipman in the action olf
Copcnhairen, 2nd of April, 1801. Ho then sailed with.
Captain Flinders in H.M. sloop Investigator on a voyage
of discovery to New Holland, joining there the armed
store-ship Porpoise ; he was wi'ecked on a coral reef near
Cato Bank on tlic 17th oi August, 1803. I shall not

CAPT. SIR JOHN FRANKLIN S LAST EXPEDITION. 147

's services-

follow him tbroujrli all liis subsequent period of active
naval service, in which he displayed conspicuous zeal and
activity. But we lind him takinf]f part at the battle of
Trafalgar, on the 2l8t of October, 1805, on board the
Mcnerophon, where he was signal midshipman. He was
contirmed as Lieutenant on board the Bedford, 74, 11th
of February, 1808, and he then escorted the royal family
of Portugal from Lisbon to South America. He was
engaged in very arduous services during the expedition
against New Orleans in the close of 1814, and was slightly
wounded in boat service, and for his brilliant services on
this occasion was warmly and oificially recommended for
promotion. On the 14th of January, 1818, he assumed
command of the hired brig Trent, in which he accompanied
Captain D. Buchan, of the Dorothea, on the perilous
Toj' age of discovery to the neighbourhood of Spitzbergeu,
which I have fully recorded elsewhere. In April, 1819,
having paid off the Trent in the preceding November, he
was invested with the conduct of an expedition destined
to proceed overland from the shores of Hudson's Bay, for
the purpose more particuhirly of ascertaining the actual
position of the mouth of the Coppermine River, and the
exact trending of the shores of the Polar Sea to the east-
ward of that river.

The details of this fearful undertaking, which endured
nntil the summer of 1822, and in the course of which he
reached as far as Point Turnagain, in latitude 68^ 19' N.
and longitude 109° 25' W., and effected a journey alto-
gether of 5550 miles, Captain Franklin has ablv set forth
in his "Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the Polar
Sea in the Years 1819-22," and which I have abridged in
preceding pages. He was promoted to the rank of Com-
liiander on the Ist of January, 1821, and reached his post
rank on the 20th of November, 1822. On the 16th of
Februaiy, 1825, this energetic officer again left England
on another expedition to the Frozen Kegions, having for
its object a co-operation with Captains F. W. Boechey
and W. E. Parry, in ascertaining from opposite quarters
the existence of a north-west passage. The results of this
mission will be found in detail in Captain Franklin's
** Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the
Polar Sea in 1825-7."

On his return to England, where he arrived on the 26th
of Sept., 1827, Franklin was presented by the Geographical
Society of Paris with a gold medal valued at 1200 Irancs,
for having made the most important acquisitions to geo-
graphical knowledge during the preceding year, and on

♦

■ill

.f;

!''■ '

11^

1:'

; h

1:-:,

1 iH

M if!

Wii

■-

148

rnoonKss op arctic discovery.

the 20lli of April, 1829, he received the honour of knif^lit*
hood, besides being awarded in July following the Oxford
degree of a D.C.L.

From 1830 to 1834 ho was in active service in command
of H.M.S. Rainhoio on the Mediterranean station, and
for his exertions during that period as connected with the
troubles in Greece, was presented with the order of the
Ixedeemcr of Greece. Sir John was created a K.C.U. on
the 2oth of January, 1830, and was for some time Governor
of Van Diemen's Land. Ho married, on the 16th of
August, 1823, Eleanor Anne, youngest daughter of W.
Pordcn, Esq., architect, of Berners Street, London, and
secondly, on the 5th of November, 1828, Jane, second
daughter of John Griffin, Esq., of Bedford Place.

Captain Crozier was in all Parry's expeditions, having
"been midshipman in the Fury in 1821, m the Hecla in
1821, went out as a Lieutenant in the Hecla with Parry
on his boat expedition to the Pole in 1827, volunteered in
1836 to go out in search of the missing whalers and their
crews to Davis Straits, was made a Captain in 1811, and
was second in command of the Antarctic expedition under
Sir Jami's lioss, and on his return appointed to the Terror
as second in command under Franklin.

Lieutenant Gore served as a mate in the last fearful
voyage of the Terror, under Back, and was also with
Hoss in the Antarctic expedition. Ho has attained his
commander's rank during his absence.

Lieutenant Fairholme was in the Niger expedition.

Lieutenant Little has also been promoted dui'ing his
absence, and so have all the mates.

Commander Fitzjames is a brave and gallant officer who
has seen much service in the East, and has attained to his
post rank since his departure.

The Terror, it may be remembered, is the vessel in
which Captain Sir G. Back made his perilous attempt to
reach Eepulse Bay in 1836.

The Erebus and Terror were not expected home unless
success had early rewarded their eflbrts, or some casualty
hastened their return, before the close of 1847, nor were any
tidings anticipated from them in the interval ; but when the
autumn of 1847 arrived without any intelligence of the ships,
the attention of H.M. Government was directed to the ne-
cessity of searching for, and conveying relief to them, in
case of their being imprisoned in the ice, or wrecked, and
in want of provisions and means of transport.

For this purpose a searching expedition m three divisions
was fitted out by the Government in the early part of

CAPT. SIR JOHX franklin's LAST EXPEDITION. 149

ic Oxford

command
ition, and
1 with the
Icr of the
K:.C.1I. on
Governor
e 16th of
:er of W.
ndon, and
10, second
?c.
ns, havinsf

Jlecla in
vith Parry
inteered in
i and their

1811, and
ition under
the Terror

ast fearful
also with
tained his

I it ion.
lui'ing his

lofBcer who
led to his

vessel in
ittempt to

>me unless
le casualty
Ir were any
It when the
|f the ships,

to the ne-
[o them, in

icked, and

divisions
\\y part of

1848. The invcstifjation was directed to three difl'erent
quarters simultaneously, viz. : 1st, to that by which in
case of success the ships would come out of the Polar
Soa. to the westward, or Behrm^'s Strait. This consisted
of a sin<;le ship, the Plover, commanded by Captain
^loore, which left Enjjland in the latter end of January
for the purpose of entering Behriiin^'s Strait. It was
in*i ended that she should arrive there in the month of July,
and havinj^ looked out forawinter harbour, she might send
out her boats northward and eastward, in which directions
the discovery ships, if successful, would be met with.
The Plover, however, in her first season, never even
approached the place of her destination, owing to her
Bctt ing off too late, and to her bad sailing properties.

ller subsequent proceedings, and those of her boats
along the coast, will be found nari'ated in after pages.

The second division of the expedition was one of boats,
to explore the coast of the Arctic Sea between the Mac-
kenzie and Coppermine liivers, or from the 135th to the
llotli degree of \V. longitude, together with the south
coast of AVcllaston Land, it being supposed, that if Sir
John Franklin's party had been compelled to leave the
fillips and take to their boats, they would make for this
coast, whence they could reach the Hudson's Pay Com-
pany's posts. This party was placed under the command
of the faithful friend of Franklin and the companion of
Lis former travels, Dr. Sir John Pichardson, who landed
at ^ew York in April, 1818, and hastened to join his men
and boats, which were already in advance towards the
Arctic shore. He was, however, unsuccessful in his
search.

The remaining and most important portion of this
searching expedition consisted of two snips imder the
command of Su* James Iloss, which sailed in May, 1818,
for the locality in which Franklin's ships entered on their
course of discovery, viz., the eastern side of Davis Straits.
These did not, however, succeed, owing to the state of the
ice, in getting into Lancaster Sound until the season for
operations had neavh- closed. These ships wintered in the
neighbourhood of Leopold Island, Pegent Inlet, and
missing the store-ship sent out with provisions and fuel,
to enable them to stop out another year, were driven
out through the Strait by the pack of ice, and returned
home unsuccessful. The subsequent expeditions conse-
quent upon the failure of the foregoing wul be foimd fully
detailed and narrated in their proper order.

Among the number of volunteers for the service of ex-

150

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

1 1,

•Dloration, in the different seareliing expeditions, were the
lollowin^ : — Mr. Chaa. Keid, lately commanding the whal-
ing ship Pacific, and brother to the ice-master on board
the Erebus, a man of groat experience and respectability.

The Rev. Joseph Wolff, who went to Bokhara in search
of Capt. Conolly and Col. Stoddart.

Mr. John McLean, who had passed twenty-five years as
an officer and partner of the Hudson's Bay Company, and
who has recently pubUshed an interesting narrative of his
experience in the north-west regions.

JDr. Richai'd King, who accompanied Capt. Back in his
land journey to the mouth of the Great Fisli River.

Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R.N., who lias recently gouo
out in the Pioneer, tender to the Resolute.

Commander Forsyth, R.N., who volunteered for all
the expeditions, and was at last sent out by Lady Franklin
in the Prince Albert.

Dr. McCormick, R.N., who served under Capt. Sir E.
Parry, in the attempt to reach the North Pole, in 1827,
who twice previously volunteered his services in 1847.

Capt. Sir John Ross, who sailed out in the Felix, fitted
out bjr the Hudson's Bav Company, and by private sub-
scriptions ; and many others.

Lp to the year 1854 no intelligence of any kind has
been received respecting the expedition, and its late is now
exciting the most intense anxiety, not only on the part
of the British government and public, but of the whole
civilized world. The maritime powers of Europe and the
United States are vying with each other as to who
shall be the first to discover some trace of the missing
navigators, and if they bo still alive, to render them assist-
ance. The Hudson's Bay Company have, with a noblo
liberality, placed all their available resources of men, pro-
visions, and the services of their chief and most experienced
traders, at the disposal of Government. The Russian autho-
rities have also given every facility for diffusing informa-
tion and affording assistance in their territories.

In a letter from Sir John Franklin to Col. Sabine, dated
from the Whale-Fish Islands, 9th of Juljr, 1845, after
noticing that, including what they had received from the
transport, which had accompanied them so far, the Erebus
and Terror had on board provisions, fuel, clothing, and
stores, for three years complete from that date, i. e. to
July, 1848 ; he continues as follows : — " I hope my dear
wife and daughter will not bo over-anxious if we should
not return by the time they have fixed upon ; and I must
beg of you to give them the benefit of your advice and ex-

CAPT. SIR JOHN FKANKLTX'S LAST EXPEBITIOX. Idl

porienco when that nmves, for you know well, that even
after the second whiter, without success in our object, wo
should wish to tiy some other channel, if the state of our
provisions, and the health of the crews, justify it."

Capt. Dannett, of the whaler. Prince of Wales, whilst in
Melville Bay, last saw the vessels of the expedition, moored
to an iceberg, on the 2Gth of July, in lat. 74° 48' N., long.
60^ 13' W., waiting for a favourable openinnr through tho
middle ice from Baffin's Bay to Lancaster Sound. Capt.
Dannett states that during three weeks, after parting com-
pany with the ships, he experienced very fine weather, and
thinks they would have made good progress.

Lieut, d-riffith, in command of the transport which ac-
companied them out with provisions to Baffin's Bav, reports
that he left all hands well and in high spirits. They were
then furnished, he adds, with every species of provisions
for three entire years, independently of five bullocks, and
stores of every description for the same period, with abund-
ance of fuel.

The following is Sur John Franklin's official letter sent
home by the transport :—

" Her Majesty's Ship * JiJrehus,*
" Whale-Fish Islands, 12th of July, 1845.

" I have the honour to acquaint you, for the informa-
tion of the Lords Commissioners of the A dmiralty, that
her Majesty's ships Erehus and Terror, with the transport,
arrived at this anchorage on the 4th instant, having had a
passage of one month from Stromness : the transport was
immediately taken alongside this ship, that she might bo
the more readily cleared ; and we have been constantly
employed at that operation till last evening, the delay
having been caused not so much in getting^ the stores
transierred to either of the ships, as in making the best
stowage of them below, as well as on the upper deck : tho
ships are now complete with supplies of every kind for
three years ; they are therefore very deep ; but, happily,
we have no reason to expect much sea as we proceed
farther.

" The magnetic instruments were landed the same morn-
ing ; so also were the other instruments requisite for as-
certaining the position of the observatory ; and it is satis-
factory to find that the results of the observations for
lalituao and longitude accord very nearly with those
assigned to the same place by Sir Edward Parry : those
for the dip and variation are equally satisfactory, which
wei"^ made by Captain Crozicr with the instruments

l;S'

■ i !'

«Hii

M ■

i
i t

M
ft

-n ! !J ;
:4l 'fi'T

ir/i:

PROGUES-J OP ARCTIC DI.SCOVnUY.

belonfjini? to the Terror, and by Commander Fitzjnmps
^•ith those of the Erchiis.

" The ships are uou' beinir swun*;, for the purpose of
afleertaininjj the dip and deviation of the needle on board,
as was done at Grccuhitlie, wliich, I trust, will be com-
pleted this afternoon, and I hope to be able to sail in the
ni«;ht.

'* The governor and principal persons are at this time
absent from Disco, so that I have not been able to receive
any commimication from head ciuarters as to the state or
the ice to the north ; I have, liowever, learnt froma Dani:»h
carpenter in charge of the Esquimaux at these islands,
that though the winter was severe, the spring was net
later than usual, nor was the ice later in breaking away
hereabout; ho supposes also that it is now loose as far a-
74° latitude, and that our prospect is favourable of gel tinur
across the barrier, and as lar as Lancaster Sound, without
mucli obstruction.

" The transport will sail for England this day. I sliall
instruct the agent. Lieutenant Griffiths, to proceed to
Deptford, and report his arrival to the Secretary of the
Admiralty. I have much satisfaction in bearing my testi-
mony to the careful and zealous manner in which Lieut
Griiiiths has performed the service entrusted to him, and
would beg to recommend him, as an oflicer who appears tr>
have seen much service, to the favourable consideration of
their lordships.

" It is unnecessary for me to assure their lordships of
the energy and zeal of Captain Crozi«'r, Commander Fitz-
lames, and of the officers and men \^ ith whom I have tht*
happiness of being employed on this service.

" I have, Sic,
(Signed) "John Franklin, Captain,

"The l?ight Hon. II. L. Corry, M.P."

It has often been a matter of surprise thai but one oi
the copper cylinders which Sir John Franklin was in-
structed to tln'ow overboard at stated intervals, to record
his progress, has ever come to hand, but a recent sight of the
solitary one which has been received proves to me that tliey
are utterly useless for the purpose. A small tube, aboui
the size of an ordinary rocket-case, is hai'dly ever likely
to be observed among huge masses of ice, and the waves
of the Atlantic and Pacific, uidess drifted by accident on
shore, or near sonic boat. The Admiralty have wisely
ordered them to be rendered more conspicuous by beiu^^
headed up in some cask or barrel, instructiojis beirg issuen

CAPT. SIR JOHN' franklin's LA.^T EXrEDITION. 153

to Captain C'cUinson and other olFiccrs of the differcut ex
pi'ditions to that otlect.

Accordinj; to Sir Jolm Eichardson, who was on intininto
terms with Sir John I:'rauklin, his plans were to shape his
eourse in tho first iiistanci' Ibr the neighbourhood of Capo
A\*alkor, and to push to tho westward in that parallel, or,
if that could not be aecomplished, to make his way south-
wards, to the channel discovered on the north coast of the
continent, and so on to Bchrinj^'s Straits; failinj^ succojis
ill that (niarter, ho meant to retrace liis course to AVel-
linjjton Sound, and attempt a pa3saj:;e northwards of
Parry's Islands, and if foiled there also, to descend
licffcnt Inlet, and seek the passajie along tho coast dis.
covered by Messrs. Dease and Simpson.

Captain Fitzjames, the second m command under Sir
John Franklin, was much inclined to try the passaire
northward of Parry's Islands, and he would no doubt en-
deavour to persuade Sir John to pursue this course if they
failed to the southward.

In a private letter of Captain Fitzjames to Sir John
Barrow, dated January, 18 15, he writes as follows : —

'* It does not anpear clear to me what led Parry down
Prince Pegent Inlet, after having got as far as iNIelvillv.*
Island before. The north-west passage is certainly to be
gone through by Barrow's Strait, but whether south or
north of Parry's Group, remains to be proved. I am tor
going north, edging north-west till in longitude IIU^, if
possible."

I i«liall now proceed to trace, in chronological order and
Fuccession, the opinions and proceedings of the chief
Arctic ex])lorers and public authorities, with the private
suggestions offered, and notice m detail the rcliei expe-
ditions resulting therefrom.

In February, 1817, the Lords of the Admiralty state,
that having unlimited confidence in the skill and resources
of Sir John Franklin, they " have as yet felt no apprehen-
sions about his safety ; but on the other hand, it is obvious,
that if no accounts of him should arrive b}- the end of this
year, or, as Sir John Poss expects, at an earlier period,
active steps must then be taken."

Captain Sir Edward Parry fully concurred in these
views, observing, "Former experience has clearly shown,
that with the resources taken from this country, two
winters may be passed in the Polar regions, not only in
safety, but with comfort : and if any inference can be
drawn from the absence of all intelligence of the expedi-
tion up to this time, I am disposed to consider it rather iii

1j4

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

ill

favour tlmn olLerwiso of tho success which has attended
thi'ir C'flbrtB."

Captain Sir G. Back, in a letter to tho Secretary of the
Admiralty, under date 27th of Janurn' 14S, says, " I
cannot bring myself to entertain niuv vhnn ordinury
anxiety for tho safety and return of Si a ' oLa I ranklin
and his gallant companions."

Captain Sir John Koss records, in February, 1847, his
opinion that tho expedition was frozen up beyond Mel-
ville Island, from tlie known intentions of Sir John
Franklin to put his ships into the drift ico at tho western
end of Melville Island, a risk which was deemed in tho
hiu^hest degree imprudent by Lieutenant Parry and tho
olUcers of tho expedition of 1819-20, with ships of a less
draught of water, and in every respect better calculated to
sustain tho pressure of tho ice, and other dangers to which
they must bo exposed ; and as it is now well known that
tho expedition has not succeeded in passing Behriu^'s
Strait, and if not totally lost, must have been carried by
the ii.'O that is known to drift to tho southward on laud
seen at a great distance in that direction, and from which
the accumulation of ico behind them will, as in Ross's own
case, for ever prevent tho return of tho ships ; conse-
quently they must bo abandoned. When wo remember
with what extreme difficulty Boss's party travelled 300
miles over much smoother ico after they abandoned their
vessel, it appears very doubtful whether Franklin and his
men, 138 in number, could possibly travel 600 miles.

In tho contingency of the ships having penetrated some
considerable distance to the south-west of Cape Walker,
and having been hampered and crushed in the naiTow
channels of tho Archipelago, which there are reasons for
Lolieving occupies the space between Victoria, Wollaston,
and Banks' Lands, it is well remarked by Sir John Richard-
son, that such accidents among ico are seldom so sudden
but that the boats of one or of both ships, with provisions,
can be saved ; and in such an event tn© survivors would
either return to Lancaster Strait, or make for tho con-
tinent, according to their nearness.

Colonel Sabine remarks, in a letter dated Woolwich,
oth of May, 1847, — " It was Sir John Franklin's intention,
if foiled at one point, to try in succession all the probable
openings into a more navigable part of the Polar Sea : the
range of coast is considerable in which memorials of the
ships' progress would have to be sought for, extending
irom Melville Island, in the west, to the great Sound at
t.h«? head of Ballin's Bay, in the east."

CAPT. SIR JOIIX franklin's LAST EXPEDITION. 155
Sir John IJiclmrilson, when appealed to by the Admiralty

•f 1817, as reirarded the

stronir
Leusions expressed at that time for the safely of the
expedition, considered they were premature, as the ships
were specially equipped to pass two winters in the Arctic
Sea, and iintil the close of that year he saw no well-
fjrounded cause for more anxiety than was naturally felt
when the expedition sailed from this country on an enter-
prise of perd, though not prcater than that which had
repeatedly been encountered by others, and on one occasion
by Sir Jolin Koss for two winters also, but who returned
in safety.

Captain Sir James C. Ross, in March, 1847, WTites, " I
do not think there is the smallest reason for apprehension
or anxiety for the safety and success of the expedition ;
no one acquainted with the nature of the navi^ration of the
Polar Sea would have expected they would have been
able to get through to Behring's Strait without spending
at least two winters in those regions, except under unusually
favourable circumstances, which all the accounts from the
whalers concur in proving they have not experienced, and
T am quite sure neither Sir John Franklin nor Captain
Crozier expected to do so.

*' Their last letters to me from Whale-Fish Islands, the
day previous to their departure from them, infonn me
that they had taken on board provisions for three years
on full allowance, which they could extend to four years
without any serious inconvenience ; so that we may feel
assured they cannot want from that cause until after the
middle of Julv, 1849 ; it therefore does not appear to me
at all desirable to send after them until the spring of the
next year" (1848).

In the plan submitted by Captain F. W. Bcechey, R.N.,
in April, 1847, after premising '* that there does not at
present appear to be any reasonable apprehension for the
safety of the expedition," he suggested fhat it would
perhaps be prudent that a relief expedition shoidd be sent
out that season to Cape "Walker, where information of an
important nature would most likely be found. From this
vicinity one vessel could proceed to examine the various
points and headlands in Kegent Inlet, and also those to
the northward, while the other watched the passage, so
that Franklin and his party might not pass unseen, should
be be on his return. At the end of the season the ships
could winter at Port Bowcn, or any other port in the
vicinity of Leopold Island.

*• In the spring of lS-18," he adds, " a party should be

15C)

rROGRESS or ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

directed to exi)lore the coast, down to Ilecla and Fury
Strait, and to endeavour to eomraunieate with the party
despatched by the Hudson's Bay Company in that ciiree-
tion ; and in connexion with tliis part of the arrangement,
it would render the plan complete if a boat c«.nild be
sent down Back's liiver to range the coast to the east-
ward of its mouth, to meet the above-mentioned party ;
and thus, whilst it would complete the geography ot that
part of the American coast, it would at the same time
complete the line of information as to the extensive mea-
sures of relief which their lordships have set on foot, and
the precise spot where assistance and depots of provisions
arc to be found. This part of the plan has suggested itself
to me from a conversation I had with Sir John Franklin
as to his first effort being made to the westward and
south-westward of Cape Walker. It is possible that, attt-r
passiug the Cape, he may have been successful in getting
down upon A'ictoria Land, and have passed his first winter
(ISlo) tuereabout, and that 1 e may liave spent his secont
winter at a still more advanced station, ana even endured
a third, without either a prospect of success, or of an
extrication of his vessels witliin a given period of time.

" If. in this condition, which I trust may not be the
case. Sir John FVanklin should resolve upon taking to lii'=!
boats, he woidd prefer attempting a boat navigation through
Sir James Iloss's Strait, and up Eegeut Inlet, to a Iuul'
land Journey across the continent to the Hudson's Btv
Settlements, to which the greater part of his crew wuuhi
be wholly unoijual."

Sir Joini Eichardson remarks upon the above sufrL'e.--
tions, ou the otli ot" -May, 18 17, — "With respect to a i'»rt v
to be sent down liuclc's Eiver to the bottom of iJegen;
Inlet, its size and outiit would require to be equal wit^-
that of the one now preparing to descend the Mack«»nzie
Eiver, and it could scarcely with the utmost exertions hv
organized so as to sturt this summer. The present scarcity ot'
lu'ovisious in the Hudson's Bay country precludes the hope
of assistance I'rom the Company's southern posts, and it is
nou- too late to provide the means of transport throiiiiii
the interior of supplies from this country, which ri'-juiiv
to be embarked on board the Hudson's Bay ships b}' the
2iul of Juue at the latest.

•' Moreover there is no Company's post on the line of
Back's Eiver nearer than the junction of Slave Eiv'.r
with Great Slave Lake, and I do not think tliat undei*
.my circumstances Sir .Tohn Franklin would attempt thai
route.

and Fury
I the T)arty

that airec-
ranponu'Ui,
t could bo

the east-
>nod party ;
phy ot that

same time
ensive mea-
n foot, and
f provisions
E^ested itself
m Frank liu
jtward and
e that, altt-T

1 in jiettiui:
first winter

t his seeond
ren endured
8, or of au
of time,
not be the
akin^ to hi"^
ion throuirh
to a lun;j-
idson's Bay
crew woulii

ove suiiL'o.'-

t to a I'.ii'iy

I of IJe^eut

rciual with

^laekonzie

ixertions! bi-

t scarcity of

es the hope

ts, and u is

rt throuLiii

ii'li rcjum-

hips by the

the line of
lave Kiv'.-r
that undei-
ttempt thiU

OriNIOXS AND SUGGESTIONS.

157

' \

•■ 111 the summer of 18 iO, if the resources of the party I
am to conduct remain unimpaired, as I have every reason
10 believe they will, much of what Captam Beechey sui;-
ijests in rciiard to explorinj^ \'ictoria Laud nuiy be done
bv it, and indeed forms part of the orifj^mal scheme. The
extent of the examination of any part of the coast in
1>IS depends, as i formerly stated, very much on the
seasons of this autumn and next sprinpf, which iniluenoe
the advance of the boats throufrh a lonjif course of river
naviiiaiion. As Governor Simpson will most likely succeed
in procuring; an Esquimaux to accompany my party, I
liope by his means to obtain such information from parties
of that nation as may greatly facilitate our finding the
hhijts. should thev be detained in that quarter.

""Vere Sir John Franklin thro\»'» upon tlie north coast
of the continent with his boats, and all his crew, I do
]iot think that he would attempt the ascent of any river,
except the Mackenzie. It is navitfable for boats of largo
drauiiht, without a portage, for 13lH) miles from the sea,
or within forty miles of Fort Chipewyan, one of the
Company's principal depots, and there are five other posts
in that distance. Though these posts could not furnish
in'CA'isions to such a party, they could, by providing them
with nets, and distriuuting the men to various fishing
etr.tious, do much towards procuring food for them.

'• I concur generally in what Captain Beechey has said
with regard to Behring's Straits, a locality with which ho
is so intimately aciiuainted, but b^g leave to add one
remark, viz., that in high northern latitudes the ordinary
allowance of animal food is insullicient in the winter
season to maintain a labouring man in health ; and as Sir
John Franklin would deem it prudent when detained a
second winter to shorten the allowance, symptoms of
sctu'vy may show themselves among the men. as was tho
case when Sir Fdward Parry wintered two years in Fox's
Channel.

•'A vessel, therefore, meeting the ErthNs and Terror
this season m Behrmg's Straits, might render great ser-
vice, " — Pari. Paper, No. "itJi, Svss'iou 1818.

The la<c Sir John Barrow, Bart., in a memorandum
dated July, 1817, says: —

" The anxiety that prevails regarding Sir John FrankHn,
and the brave fellows who compose tne crews of the two
fliips, is very natural, but somewhat premature; it arises
eh icily from nothing having been received from them since
fixf'd in the ice of Ballin's Jlay, where the lust whaling
shjp of tho season of 1815 left them, opiiosiie to tho

I i

■^1.

I ■

15S

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

I' . ''

' 2

1^^ !t

'• ,:

iilii

opening into Lancrster Sound. Hitherto no diffipuhv
lias been found to the entrance into that Sound. If dis-
appointed, rather than return to the southward, with tlie
new of wintering at or about Disco, I sliould be inclined
to think that they would endeavour to enter Smith's
Sound, so higlily spoken, of by Baffin, and which just now
that gallant and adventurous Kussian, Admiral Count
Wrangel, has pointed out in a paper addressed to the
Geographical Society as the startmg place for an attempt
to reach the North Pole ; it would appear to be an inlet
that runs up high to the northward, as an officer in one
of Parry's ships states that he saw in the line of direction
along that inlet, the sun at midnight skimming the
horizon.

" From Lancaster Sound Franklin's instructions directed
Lim to proceed through Barrow's Strait, as far as the
islands on its southern side extended, which is short of
Melville Island, which was to be avoided, not only on
account of its dangerous coast, but also as being out of
tho direction of the course to the intended objeot.
Having, therefore, reached the last known land on the
southern side of ]^arrow's Strait, they were to shape k
direct course to Behring's Strait, without any deviation,
except what obstruction might be met with n-om ice, or
from islands, in the midst of tho Polar Sea, of which no
knowledge had at that time been procured ; but if any
such existed, it would of course be left to tlieii' judgment,
on the spot, how to get rid of such obstructions, by taking
a northerly or a southerly course.

.\b 4fc .Ifc <ib >^fc

w tT tP tP TT

" The only chance of bringing them upon this (the Ameri-
can) coast is the possibility of some obstruction having
tempted them to explore an immense inlet on the northern
shore of Barrow's Strait (short of Melville Island), called
Wellington Channel, which Parry felt an inclination to ex-
plore; and more than one of the presentparty betrayed to mo
a similar inclination, which I discouraged, no one venturing
to conjecture even to what extent it might go, or into
what (lillieulties it might lead.

•* Under all these circumstances, it would be an act of
folly to pronounce any t>pinion of the state, condition, or
position of those two ships ; they are well suited for their
rnrposo, and the only doubt I have is that of their being
hampered by the screws among the ice."

Sir James C. lioss, in his outline of a plan for affordii.g
relief, submitted to the Admiralty in December, 18 17,
suggested that two ships should l3e sent out to examine

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

V>0

difBouUy

If ais-
witli the
' inclined

Smith's
just now
al Count
d to the
1 attempt
e an ink^t
er in one
direction
ning the

s directed
*ar as the
1 short of
b only on
ng out of
d object,
id on the
shape fi
deviation,
)m ice, or
which no
ut if any
ud<:ment,
by taking

|he Ameri-
m having:
northern
[d), caUed
lion to ex-
ed to mo
'enturinii
or into

Jan act of

Idition, or

for their

leir beini?

|affordiii2;

?r, 1817,

examine

Wellinijton Ch.innol, alhidod to in tlie furpfjoinff me-
moran<Uim of Sir John Barrow, and the coast l)t'twoen
Capes Clarence and Walker. A convenient winter
liarbour miji^ht be found for one of the ships near
Gamier Bay or Capo Rennell. From this position tli.*
coast line could be explored as far as it extended to the
westward, by detached parties, early in the sprinjij, as well
as the western coast of Boothia, a considerable distani'e
to the southward ; and at a more advanced period o^ the
season the whole distance to Cape Nicolai miirht bi'
completed.

The other ship should then proceed alone to the wcjit*
ward, endeavouring to reach Winter Harbour, in Melville
Island, or some convenient port in Banks' Land, in which
to pass the winter.

From these points parties might be sent out early in
the spring.

The first party should be directed to trace the western
coast of Banks' Land, and proceed direct to Cape Batlmr^it
or Cape Parry, on each of which Sir John JRicharasou
proposes to leave depots of provisions for its use, and tl;. :>
to reach the Hudson's Bay Company's settlement at F^rt
Good Hope, on the Mackenzie, whence they might travel
by the usual route of the traders to the principal settk -
ment, and thence to England.

The second party should explore the eastern shore of
Banks' Land, and make for Cape Krusenstern, where, or
at Capo Hearne, they will find a rac/ie of provision
left by Sir John Ilieliardson, with whom this party may
communicate, and whom it may assist \v completing ilie
examination of Wollasion and Victoria finds, or return
to England by the route he shall deem mon .ia\ is.nble.

Sir James Eoss was entrusted >v',ili il • • .rryni^' out of
this search, in the l^nttyprise and L:\\tlli/oiv> , .'ud an
account of the voyage and proceed i'i;rJ of thei-*^ ^ressr-'ls
wiU be found recorded in its chronoio,:' "ol order.

Tile following letter from Dr. JJichai;! Kitr^ to the Lcr^s
of the Admiralty, containing some usiii'.i suggestions aud
offers, met with no encouragement troui my Lords.

" 17, Saville HoH; Fchmary, 1S18.

" ' The old route of Parry, through Lancaster Soi-iid and
Barrow's Strait, as far as to llie last land on its .i,,<i.heni
shore, and thence in a direct lino to Behring's Strnit>», is
the route ordered to be pursued by Franklin.' (Bairi^w's
Arctic Voyages, ]>. IL)

*• The gallant oliiccr has thus been despatched to push

IGO

rnOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

his a Ivonturous way between IMelville Island and Banks'
Land whieh Sir E. Parry attempted for two years unsuc-
cessfully. After much toil and hardship, and the best
consideration that {jreat man could give to the subject, he
rccoi ded, at the moment of retreat, in indelible characters
tju'st impressive thoiijihts: ' We have been lyinj? near our
prese nt station, with an easterly wind blowmg fresh, for
thirt) -six hours together, and although this was consider-
ably off the land, the ice had not during the whole of that
time moved a single yard from th3 shore, affording a proof
that there was no space in which the ice was at liberty to
move to the westward. The navigation of this part of
the Polar Sea is only to be performed by watching the
Decisional opening between tlie ice and the shore, and
therefore, a continuitv of land is essential for this purpose;
such a continuity of laud, wiiich was here about to fail, as
must necessarily be furnished by the northern coast of
America, in whatsoever latitude it may be found.' As-
suming, therefore. Sir John Frankhn has been arrested
between Melville Island and Banks' Land, where Sir E.
Parry was arrested by difficulties whieh he considered in-
surmountable, and he has followed the advice of that gal-
lant officer, and made for the continuity of America, he
will have turned the prows of his vet-scls south and west,
according as Banks' Land tends for Victoria or Wollastoa
La ads. It is here, tlierefore, that we may expect to find
the expedition wrecked, whence thoy will make in their
boats for the western land of North Somerset, if that land
should not be too far distant.

•' In order to save the party from the ordeal of a fourth
winter, when starvation must be their lot, I propose to
undertake the boldest journey that has ever been attempted
in the northern regions of America, one which was justiti-
able only from the circumstances. I propose to attempt
to reach the western land of North Somerset, or tlie
ea.>Jtern portion of Victoria Land, as may be deemed ad-
visable, by the close of the approachmg summer; to
accomplish, in fact, in one summer that which has not been
done under two.

" I rest my hope of success in the performance of this
Herculean task upon the fact that I possess an intimate
knowledge of the country and the people through which i
shall have to pass, the health to stand the rigour of the
climate, and the strength to undergo the fatigue of mind
and body to which I must be subjected. A glance at the
imp of North America, directed to Behring's Strait in the
Ficific, Barrow's Strait in thv^ Atlantic, and the land of

OPINIONS AND StGOESTIONS.

ICl

ra unsuc-
the best
ibject, be
ibaracters
r near our
Vresb, for
, considcr-
ale of tbftt
,nK a proof
, Uberty to
is part of
tcbiu^ tbe
sbore, and
is purpose ;
t to fail, as
rn coast of
ouncl.' Aa-
Bu arrested
bere Sir E.
usidered in-
of tbat gal-
America, be
.h and we£»t,
r WoUastoa

pect to find
lake in tbeir

if tbat land

I of a fourtb
, propose to
»n attempted
\va8 justiti-
to attempt
[rset, or tbe
deemed ad-
Jsummer; to
Ibas not been

Lance of tbis
[an intimate
lut^b Nvbicb 1
lijjjour of tbd
li^ue of mind
tlance at tbe
[Strait in tbe
tbe land of

15'ortb Somerset butwoon tbcni, will mukc it np[inrcnt that,
to roiukr nssiistance to a part}' situated on tliat coast, tlioro
are two ways by sea aiul one by land. Of tlio t^\o sc.i-
ways, tbe route by tbe Pacilu; is altogetber out of llu^
question ; it is an idea of by-<rone days ; wbile tbat by tbe
Atlantic is so doubtful of success, tbat it is merely Jioces-
eary, t<> put tliis assistance aside as far from certain, to
mention tbat Sir Jobn Koss fi)und Barrow's Strait dosed
in tbe siunmer of 1832. To a land journey, tben, alone wo
can look for success ; for tbe failure of a land journey
would be tbe exception to the rule, wbilo tbe sea expetli-
tion would be tbe rule itself. To tbe western land of
Nortli Somerset, wbere Sir John Franklin is likely to bo
found, the Great Fish liiver is tbe direct and only route ;
and althou|t;b tbe approach to it is through a country too
poor and too dillicult of access to admit of the transport of
provisions, it may be made the medium of communication
between the lost expedition and the civilized world, and
guides be thus placed at their disposal to convey them to
the bunting grounds of tbe Indians. Without such guides
it is im])ossible tbat they can roach these hunting grounds.
It was hy tbe Great Fish Kivcr that I reached the ]\)hir
Sea while acting as second olficer in search of Sir Jobn
Uoss. I feel it my duty, therefore, as one of two olllccra
80 peculiarly circumstanced, at the present moment to

})lace my views on record as an earnest of my sincerity.
iveu if it should he dett-rmined to try and force provision
vessels ihrough Barrow's Strait, and scour the vicinity in
boats for the lost expeilition, and should it succeed, it will
be satislhctory to know tliat s»u'h a mission as I have j)ro-
posed should be adopted ; wlii'e, if these attempts should
I'ail, and the service under consideration bo ]iut aside, it
will 1)0 a source of regret that not only the nation at largo
will f«'- \ but the whole civilized Mork!. A\ hen this regret
is fell, and every soul has perished, such a mission as I
Jiave proposed will bo uv<2\(l again and again for adoption;
for it is impossible tbat the country will rest satisfica imtil
a search be made for the Vf^mnins of the lost expedition.

'* Tbe fact tbat all lands whicli liave a Mcsterii as])oct
are generally ic(»-free, m liich I d\v(dt largely upon w1h*u

Sir John Franklin sailed, must have had weight with the
gallant ofllccr ; ho will therefore, on linding himself in a
serious dilllculty, mIuIo pushing along the eastern side of
Victoria Land, at once fall upon the western land of ^>'ortb

Somorst't, as a refuge groimd. if he have the oj»|)ortunity.

The eflbrt by Behringa Strait and Banks' Land is ])raiso«

Wt)rlhy in attempt, but forlorn in hope. In the former

i.Mli •

lsi2 T'llOnUE.SS OF AUCTIC PTSfOVEIlY.

olTovt, it is asstiiiKul tli;it ►^ir .lolm I'j"aiil<lin 1ms mnrlo the
passMiXc, iiiul llijit lii;^ {n'rcsi is Ijclwioii tlio ^ffU'konzio
Eiv«'r ami Icy Capo ; in the latter, that cJh* James Rosa
■will reach Maiiks' Land, and traeo lis eontimiity to Vic-
toria and Wolh'.stoii Land, and tluH mako t!ie ' ])assanje.'
i'irsL, We have no reason to believe that Sir John ['"rankliu
nnd Sir James ]\of.s will he more fortunate than tlieir pre-
decessors, and we eannot trust to their Huceess. Secondly,
"Wo. are unable to assume that SI>* Tames lioss uill readi
13anks' Land ; Sir E. Parry was unable to renc^ it. and
only v'iewed it from n distance ; much less are we able to
assume that the /x^iU'tut ollicer Mill find a hi;jjh road to
Victoria Land, which is altoi:;ether a frrra inrofjaita.

** y\\\ T. Simpson, who surveyed tiie Arctic coast com-
prised between the Coppermine and Ca^.tor ami Pollux:
l\ivers, has set that; question at rest, arid is the only autho-
rity upon the subject. ' A further exploration,' remarks
3Ir. Simpson, from the most cast' lu limit of his journey,
' would necessarily demar;d the whole time and enerfries ot
anollier expedition, Iiaviuix some noint of retreat much
nearer to the scene of operations than GrouC ]?ear Lake,
and Great Bear Lake is to bo the retreat of Sir John
Bicliardson.

"AVhat retreat .ould Mr. Simpson have meant but
Great Slave Lake, the retreat of the laud party in search
of Sir John IIosls P and wluit other road to the imexplored
j^jround, the western land of North Somerset, could that
tiviveller have meant than Gieat Fish Uiver, that stream
v»hich I ha . (' pointed out as the ice-free and hi,i(h ri^ad to
the land where the lost expedition is likely io be lound, — to
be the i»oun<lai'v of that passaixe which for three-and-a-half
cent 'tries we iiavo been in vain endeavourin<; to reach in
shipsr

Captain Sir W. E. Pnrry, to whom Pr Tving's pro-
posal was siibmilted by the Admiralty, thus comments
on it: —

"]\Iy former oi)inion, euoted by Ur. Kin^, as to tho
ditili'idty of .>>i|>s ])etietralin^ to the westward bevond
Cape Dun. las (the s' ulii-western extrcnuty of Melville
Island), remains uuaiu-red ; and I should expect that
Sir John Franklin, l>ein<^ aware of this diilicnliy, would
use iiis utmost ellbrt-^ to ,i^et to the southward and west-
ward before he api)roached that point, that is, between
the VM){\\. and lloth denreo of lonLjiuide. The more I
have c insidered this subject (uhich has raturally occu-
pied much ot my attention hitcly), the more dillicult 1 find

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

1G3

R mndo the

ity to Vie-

in [''ranklin
i\ thoir pn»-
, SiM-jnelly,
s \\\\\ reacii
•acli it, Jiad
^ we nl>l^ to
i(rh roii<l to
(fiuta.

' COilst (•-'•TTl-

tiiul Pollux
[>only aiitho-
on,' rcniarka
l»is journey,
d energies ot
•ctrent much
c ]^oar Lake,

of Sir John

meant but
•ty in search

unexplored
t, could that

that stream

iiijh road to
o," nmucl, — to
•eo-and-a-half

to reach in

King's pro-
lus coiuiueut3

ng, aa to the
ward beyond
oi Melville
expect that
liruUy, would
ii-d Lin (I west-
It iiJ, between
The more I
iturallv oceu-
lillicul't i tiud

it to eonjeclure wliero the expedition may have sto)>i)ed,
eillur wi'ili or without any serinns aeeiiU'iit to the ships;
])ut mi^ no iutbnnation lias reaeheil us uj) to this time ^
coni;eive that there is some coiuHiclerabie i)rohal)ility ^
the! beinj; situated somewhere hetweeii the lon^'iludo
1 have just named; how far they may have pene-
trated to tlio southward, between tliose meridians, must
be a matter of s))ee\ilation, depending on the state of the
ice, and the existence of laud in a space hitherto l)lank on
our maps.

" iJe this as it may, I consider it not improbable, aa
su^^H'sted by Dr. Kin^, that aa attemjjt will be made by
them to fall back on the western coast uf jSorth Sunu'raet,
wherever ihat may l)o found, as bein;; the nearest point
ailordinij; a hope of communication, either with whalers or
with ships sent expressly in search of the expedition.

•* Agreeintj thus far with Dr. Kinj;, I am comj)elled
to differ with liim entirely as to the readiest mode of
reacliincf that coast, because I feel satisfied that, with
the resources of the expedition now etjuipping under
Sir Janu's Jtoss, the energy, skill and intelligence of that
ol!ii-er will render it a matter of no very dillicuU enterprise
to examine the coast in question, either with his ships,
boats, or travelling parties ; whereas an attempt to reach
that coast by an expedition from the continent of America
Must, as it appears to me, be extremely hazardous and
uncertain. And as 1 understand it to be their lordships*
intention to direct Sir .lames J{oss to station one of his
8hij)s sc nn^w here about Caue Walker, while the other pro-
ceeils on the search, antl likewise to equip his boats spe-
cially for the purpose of exaniining the various co.ists and
inlets, 1 am decidedly of opinion, that, as regards the
'\estern coast of North Somerset, this plan will bo
much more likely to answer the proposed objict than
any overland exi)edition. This object will, of course, ho
the more easily accompli :hed, in case of vMr James K<>ss
finding the western coast of North Somerset navigable
for his ships.

"In regard to Dr. King's suggestion, respecting Vic-
toria Land and AVollaston Land, supjiosiug Sir Jnhu
Franklin's ships to have been arrested between the ni«Ti-
dians to which I have already alluded, it docs seem, i)y ,iii
inspection of the map, not improbable that ])ai*;>'s may
atlemj)t to penetrate to the contiuent in that direction;
but not being well ac([uainted with the facilities for reach-
ing the coast of America opposite those lands in l';o inauuer

1G4

PllOGllESS OF AUCTIC DISCOVKRY.

proposed by J>r. Xini(, 1 am not competent to judge of its
prac'tifiibility."

Nenrly the "whole of tlie west const of North yonierset
and Buotliia was (it will be found hereafter) explored by

1)artics in boats detached from Sir James iioss's ships ia
1849.

I append, also, the most important portions of Sir James
Rosa's remarks on Dr. King's plan.

" Dr. King begins by assuming that Sir John Franklin
has attempted to push'the ships through to the westwardr
between Melville Island and Banks' Laud (althougl
directly contrary to his instructions); that having bee;,
arrested by insurmountable dilliculties, ho would liavo
* turned the prows of his vessel to the south and west,
according as Banks' Land tends for Victoria or Wollastou
Land ; ' and having been wrecked, or from any other
cause obliged to abandon their ships, their crews would
take to the boats, and make for the west coast of North
Somerset.

" If the expedition had failed to penetrate to the west-
ward between Banks' Land and Melville Island, it is vc-iy
probable it would have next attempted to gain the con-
tinent by a more southerly course ; and supposing that,
after making only small progress (say 100 miles) to the
S.W., it Hhould have been then finally stopped or wrecked,
the calamity will have occurred in about latitude 72^° N.
and longitude 115° W. This point is only 280 miles
from the Coppermine Kiver, and 420 miles from the Mac-
kenzie, either of which would, therefore, bo easily attain-
able, and at each of which abundance of provision might
be j)rocured by them, and their return to England a
measure of no great dilliculty.

" At the point above mentioned, the distance from the
west coast of North Somerset is probably about 'Mli) mill's,
and the nvnith of tlio Great Fish Kiver full 5(X) ; at iieitlier
of these ])lace8 could they hope to obtnin a siii^h' (lay's
provisions Torso large a party; and !Sir John Franklin's
mtimate knowledge of the imi)ossibility of ascending that
river, or ol)taining any food for his party in passing
through ill.' Barren grounds, would concur in deterring
him troiu attempting to gain cither of these points.

*' I lliiuk it most probable that, from the situation
pointed out, he would, when com])elled to abandon his
ships, endeavour in the boats to retrace his steps, and
paiifiing through the channel by which he had advanced,

■i

OPINIONS AND SUOCJESTIONS,

IG3

luli^o of its

li Somerset
xpiored by
3*8 ships in

,f Sir James

m Franklin
e westwardr
i (allhougl
liaving l)ce;.
would have
Lb and west,
r "Wollaston
1 any otlier
[•rows would
flt of North

to the west-
[id, it is very
;ain the con-
iposing that,
iiiles) to the
I or wrecked,
udo 72^^ N.
|r 280 miles
[om the Mac-
jeasily attain -
ivision mij;ht
England a

ice from the
it :\m miles,

; at neither

siniih* tUiy's

In i'ninkliu's

sending that

in passing
liu deterring
lints.

jhc situation
labandon his
Ls steps, and
Id advanced,

and which wo have always found of easy navigation, seek
tl)e whale ships which annually visit tho west coast of
Baflin's Bay.

*' It is far more probable, however, that Sir John Frank-
lin, in obedience to his instructions, would cndvavour to
push the ships to the south and west as soon as they ])uflsed
Cape Walker, and the consequence of such a measure,
owing to the known prevalence of westerly wind, and tho
drift of the main body of the ice, would be (in my opinion)
their inevitable embarrassment, and if ho persevered in
that direction, which he probably would do, I have no
hesitation in stating my conviction he would never be able
to extricate his ships, and would ultimately be obli^jcd to
abandon them. It is therefore in latitude 73^ N. and
longitude 105° W. that we may expect to find them
involved in the ice, or shut up in some harbour. This is
almost the only point in which it is likely they would bo
detained, or from which it would not bo possible to convey
information of their situation to the Hudson's Bay Settle-
ments.

" If, then, wc suppose tho crews of the ships should be
compelled, cither this autumn or next spring, to abandon
their vessels at or near this ^point, tliey would most
assuredly endeavour, in their boats, to reach Lancaster
Sound ; but I cannot conceive any position in which they
could be placed from which they would make for the
Great Fish lliver, or at which any jiarty descending that
river would be likely to overtake them ; and even if it
did, of what advantage could it bo to them ?

"If Dr. King and his party, in their single canoe, did
fall in with Sir John Franklin and his party on the west
coast of North Somerset, how docs he propose to assist
them? he would barely have sufficient provision for his
own party, and would more probably be in a condition to
require rather than afford relief. He could only tell them
what Sir John Franklin already knows, from former
experience, far better than Dr. King, that it would bo
impossible for so large a parly, or indeed any party not
previously provided, to travel across the Barren grounds to
any of the Hudson's Bay Settlements."

••All that has been done by the way of search since
February, 1818, tends," persists Dr. King, "to draw
attention closer and closer to the western land of North
Somerset, as the position of Sir John Franklin, and to the
Great Fish (or Back) lliver, as the highroad to reach it."

H I ;

ICG

niOOKESS OF ARCTIC DISl'OVEUV.

Dr. King haa twico proposnd to flio -\flrtiirrilty to procopcT
on tin" wcarcli by tliiH route, "Jt mouKI," lio stalcH. "bo
tlie happirat iiiomtJil of my Hfi* (imd luy ddiu'lit at boini;
selected Irom a lon^ list of vohmtcers, for the relief of
Sir John Jioss, was very j^reat) if their lordshipH would
allow 1110 to ^o bv my old route, the (ireat Kish llivcr to
attempt to save human life a neeond time on the shores
of the I'olar Sea. AVhat I did in ^^enreh of Sir .John
KosM is the boHt earnest of >vhat I vanWl do in search of
Sir»I«ihn Franklin."

A raeelinj^ of those ofliccrs and gentlemen most con-
versant with Arctic voyaj^'cs was eonveiuti, by the Lords
C'omraisioners of the Admiralty, on the 17th of . January,
18 lU, at which the following' were present : — Kear-Admiral
Sir Francis 13eaufort, K.C.13., Captain Sir W. E. l*arrv,
li. N., Captain Sir Geortjc Back, K.N., Captain Sir 1i).
Belcher, IJ.N., Colonel Sabine, K.A., and the liev. i)r.
Srorcsby.

A very pretty painting, containing portraits of all the
principal Arctic voyapcrs in consultation <-ii these momen-
tous matters, was made at the time by Mr. IVarse, artist,
of 53, 13erner8 Street, Oxford Street, and has since been
engraved.

The searching expedition under Sir James Ross having
returned unsuccessful, other measures of relief were now
determined on, and the opinions of tlie leading ollicers
again taken.

Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, in his report to the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, on iS'ovembcr 21,
18 11', observes : —

" There aro four ways only in which it is likely that the
!Erehuis and Trrror wouhl have boon lost — by lire, by
sutikeu rocks, by storm, or by being crushed between two
fields of ice. Both vessels would scarcely have taken fire
togetln-r; if one of them had struck on a rock, the other
would have avoided the danger. Storms in those narrow
seas, encumbered with ice, raise no swell, and could pro-
duce no such di-jUHter ; and, therefore, by the fourth cause
alone could the two vessels have been at once destroyed;
and eveti in that case the crews woidd have escaped upon
the ice (as ha)ii)ens every year to the whalers); tiicy
would have saved their loose boats, and reached some
part of the American shores. As no traces of any sucli
event have been found on any i)art of thf»se shores, it may
therefore be safely ntlirmed tiuit one ship at least, and
both the crews', are siill in existence; and therefore the

'EllY.

nirilty to proooeil

' ]w stiiU'S, **no

ilcllulit at beiiiK

for tho nlii't' ot

lordsliipw would

•at Finli llivcr to

ne on tl»i« shores

rcli of Sir .)oliu

I d«.» iu search ot*

IhMiien most, con-
•lu-.l, by tbe Lords

17th of .laiiuury,
it — I >onr- Admiral
Sir \\\ E. rarrv.
[., Captain Sir h.

and the Kev. Dr.

ortraitrt of all tho

n on these niomeu-

Mr. reurae, artist,

[ind has since been

James E088 having
of relief were now
he leading oUiccrs

hia report to the
J, on November 21,

. it is likely that the
u lost— by iire, by
rushed between two
leely have taken fire
L a rock, the other
Irnis in those narrow
Veil, and could pro-
by the fourth cause
lit once destroyed ;
have escaped U])on
till- whalers) ; they
and readied some
traces of any such
|tlK)se shores, it mav
V. shi]) at least, and
• and therefore the

OPINIONS AND SUGGKSTIONS.

ic;

point where they 'lOW are is the preat matter for con-
sideration.

*' Their orders would have carried them towards Mel-
ville Island, and tlien out to the westward, where it is
therefore probable that they are cnlau'^led amon«jst islands
and ice. For should they have been arrested at somo
intermediate j)lace, for instance, Capo Walker, or at ono
of the northern chain of islands, they would undoubtedly,
in the course of the three following; years, liavo contrivtil
Bome method of sending; notices ot their position to tho
shores of North Somerset or to Harrow's Strait.

"If they had reached mueli to the southward of Ilmka*
Land, they wuulil surely have communicated Mith tho
tribes on Macken/io Itiver : and if, taili:iLC to vti-[ t) tho
westward or southward, they Imd returned with the inten-
tion of penetratiiiix lhrouj;li Wellinjjton Channel, they
would have detached parties -n tho ice towanls Harrow's
Strait, in order to have de ited statements of their
intentions.

'• 'J'he «;eneral conclusion, therefore, remains, tliat they
are still loeked up in the Archipelairo to tlio westward of
Melville Island. Now, it is well known that the state of
the weather alternates between tho opposite sides of
Northern America, beinfj inild on tho one when rii^'orous
on the other ; and accorilinirly, during the two last years,
which have been unusually severe in Uallln'a Bay, the
United States whalers were successfully traversiufif tho
Polar Sea to tho northward of Behring's Straits. Tho
same severe weather may possibly ])revail on the eastern
side during the summer of I85(>, and if so, it i^ obvious
that an attempt should be now made by the >\e8teni
opening, and not merely to receive tjie two ships, if they
should be met coming out (as formerly), but to advimce in
the direction of Melville Island, resolutely enter! ii.: tho
ice, and employing every possible expedient by sledging
parties, by reconnoitring balloons, ana by blasiing liie ice,
to eoinniunieate with llieni.

'* Thesi" vessels sIkjuIiI bo intrepidly commantled. c'Soc-
tively niamu'd, and su|)j)litHl villi the best means for
travelling across the iee to tho English or to the Kussian
settlements, as it \Nill be of the greatest iniportance to bo
int'ornied of wli;\{ itroLjress tiie expedition has mail<' : and
for tiiis ])urpose likewisu tho Z''/'>»/v-/* will be of material
service, lying at some advanced point near Icy Cai.', and
ready to receive inlelligijucc, ami to convey it to iVh'o-
paulouski or to Panama.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

l/..

^io

/£

1.0

I.I

2£ 125

2.0

IL25 nil 1.4

1.6

Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.y. 14580

(716)872-4503

168

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

"Tliese vessels should enter Behring's Strait before
the Ist of August, and therefore everv effort should be
now made to despatch them from England before Christ-
mas. They might water at the Falkland Islands, and
again at the Sandwich Islands, where they -should be ready
to receive additional instructions vid Panama, by one of
the Pacific steamers, and by which vessel they might be
pushed on some little distance to the northward.

*• It seems to me likely that the ships have been pushing
on, Dummer after summer, in the direction of Behring's
Strait, and are detained somewhere in the space soutn-
westward of Banks' Land. On the other hand, should
they, after the first or second summer, have been unsuc-
cessful in that direction, they may have attem^jted to
proceed to the northward, either through Wellington
Channel, or through some other of the openings among
the same group of islands. I do not myself attach any
superior importance to Wellington Channel as regards the
north-west passage, but I understand that Sir John
Pranklin did, and that he strongly expressed to Lord
Haddington his intention of attempting that route, if he
should fail in effecting the more direct passage to the
westward.

" The ships having been fully victualled for three years,
the resources may, by due precautions, have been extended
to four years for the whole crews ; but it has occurred to
nie, since I had the honour of conferring with their
Jordships, that, if their numbers have been gradually
diminished to any considerable extent by death (a con-
tingency which is but too probable, considering their
unparalleled detention in the ice), the resources would be
proportionably extended for the survivors, whom it might,
therefore, be found expedient to transfer to one of th«
ships, with all the remaining stores, and with that ono
ship to continue the endeavour to push westward, or to
return to the eastward, as circumstances might render
expedient ; in that case, the necessity for quitting both
the ships in the past summer might not improbably have
been obviated.

" Under these circumstances, which, it must be admitted,
amount to no more than mere conjecture, it seems to me
expedient still to prosecute the search in both directions ;
namely, by way of Behring's Strait (to which I look with
the strongest nope), and also by that of Barrow's Stxiiit.
Jn the latter direction, it ought, I think, to be borne in
mind, that the more than usual diflSculties with which Sir
James Boss had to contend have, in reality, left us with

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

IG9

itrait before
rt should be
eforc Chriat-
Islands, and
Duld be ready
la, by one of
ley liilj^lit be
ird.

been pushing
L of Bohrins's
) space south-
hand, should
e been unsuc-
attempted to
1 Wellington
enings among
elf attach any
as regards the
hat Sir John
sssed to Lord
at route, if he
massage to the

br three years,
^ been extended
las occurred to
ng with their
)een gradually
r death (a con-
isidering their
irces would be
vhom it might,
to one of th«
with that one
estward, or to
might render
quitting both
iprobably have

ist be admitted,
[it seems to me
loth directions ;
tch I look with
arrow's Striiit.
To be borne in
Iwith which Sir
by, left us with

very little more information than before he left England,
and I cannot contemplate, without serious apprehension,
leaving that opening witliout still further search in the
ensuing spring, in case of the missing crews having fiiUen
back to the eastern coast of North Somerset, where they
would naturally look for supplies to be deposited for them,
in addition to the chance of finding some of those left by
the Fury. For the purpose of further pursuing the search
by way of Barrow's Strait, perhaps two small vessels of
150 or 200 tons might suffice, but they must be square
rigged for the navigation among the ice. Of course the
object of such vessels would be nearly that which Sir
James E-oss's endeavours have failed to accomplish ; and
the provisions, &c., left by that officer at Whaler Point,
as well as any which may be deposited in that neighbour-
hood by the North Star, would greatly add to the resources,
facilitate the operations, and lessen the risk of any attempt
made in that direction.

" If, however, there be time to get ships to Behring's
Strait by the first week in August, 1850, which would
perhaps require the aid of steam-vessels to accomplish
with any degree of certainty, I recommend that the
Enterprise and Investigator be forthwith equipped and
despatched there, with instructions to push through the
ice to the E.N.E. as far as possible in the ensuing season,
with the hope of meeting with at least one of the ships,
or any of the parties which may have been detached from
them. This attempt has never yet been made by any
ships, and I cling very strongly to the belief that such an
effort might be attended with success in rescuing at least
a portion of our people.

"My reason lor urging this upon their Lordships is,
that the admirable instructions under which the Plover,
assisted by the Herald, is acting, embraces only the search
of the coast line eastward from Icy Cape; since the
boats and baidars cannot effect anything except by creep-
ing along, as opportimities offer, between the ice and the
land, so that this plan of operations meets only the con-
tingency of parties reaching, or nearly reaching, the land;
whereas the chance of rescue would, as it appears to me,
be immensely increased by ships pushing on, clear of the
coast, towards Banks' Land and Melville Island, as far at
least as might be practicable in the best five or six weeks
ofthe season of 1850."

Captain Parry says — " Although this is the first attempt
ever made to enter the ice in this direction, with ships
properly equipped for the purpose, there is no reason to

1 f

1 '.

[ ^ '

»,,

1 f

! 1

1 1

III

:i:r

•1

170

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

anticipate any greater difficulties in tliis navinfation than
those encountered in other parts of the North Polar Sea ;
and, even in the event of not succeeding in reaching Banks'
Land in the summer of the present year, it may be pos-
sible to make such progress as to aflford a reasonable hope
of effecting that object in the following season (1851).
Indeed it is possible that, from the well-known fact of the
climate being more temperate in a given parallel of lati-
tude, in going westward from the Mackenzie River, some
comparative advantage may be derived in the navigation
of this part of the Polar Sea.

" It is of importance to the security of the ships and of
their crews that they should winter in some harbour or
bay not at a distance from land, where the ice might be in
motion during the winter ; and it wiU be desirable, should
no land be discovered fit for this purpose, in the space at
present unexplored between Point Barrow and Banks*
Land, that endeavours should be made to reach the conti-
nent about the mouth of the Mackenzie River, or further
eastward, towards Liverpool Bay, where there is reason to
suppose sufficient shelter may be found, and in which
neighbourhood, it appears, there is generally no ice to be
seen from the shore for about six weeks in the months of
August and September. Sir John Franklin's Narrative of
his Second Journey, that of Messrs. Dease and Simpson,
and the Admiralty Charts, will furnish the requisite hydro-
graphical information relative to this line of coast, so far
as it has been attained.

" The utmost economy should be exercised in the use of
provisions and fuel during the time the ships are in winter
quarters ; and if they should winter on or near the conti-
nent, there would probably be an opportunity of increasing
their stock of provisions by means of game or fish, and
likewise of fuel, by drift or other wood, to some consider-
able amount.

" If the progress of the ships in 1850 have been con-
siderable — for instance, as far as the meridian of 120° W. —
the probability is, that the most practicable way of return-
ing to England wiU be, still to push on in the same
direction during the whole season of 1851, with a view to
reach Barrow's Strait, and take advantage, if necessary,
of the resources left by Captain Sir James Ross at Whaler
Point, near Leopold Harbour ; if not the same season, i\t
least after a second winter. If, on the other hand, small
progress should have been made to the eastward at the
close of the present summer, it might be prudent that
when half the navigable season of 1851 shall have expired.

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

171

no further attompts should bo mado m proceeding to the
eastward, and that the remaining half of that season
should be occupied in returning to the westward, with a
view to escape from the ice by way of Behring's Strait
after the winter of 1851-52, so as not to incur the risk of
passing a third winter in the ice.

** During the summer sciison, the most vigUant look-out
should be kept from the mast-heads of both ships night
and day, not only for the missing ships, but for any
detached parties belonging to them ; and during the few
hours of darkness which prevail towards the close of each
season's navigation, and also when in winter quarters,
signals, by fires, blue lights, rockets, or guns, should be
made as the means of pointing out the position of the ships
to any detached parties belonging to the missing Expedi-
tion. And in the spring, before the ships can be released
from the ice, searching parties might be sent out in various
directions, either in boats or by land, to examine the
neighbouring coasts and inlets for any trace of the missing
crews."

Captain Sir George Back also comments, (Ist of Decem-
ber, 1849,) on these intentions, in a letter to the Secretary
of the Admiralty : —

" You will be pleased, Sir, to impress on my Lords Com-
missioners, that I wholly reject all and every idea of any
attempts on the part of Sir John Franklin to send boats
or detachments over the ice to any point of the mainland
eastward of the Mackenzie River, because I can say from
experience, that no toil-worn and exhausted party could
have the least chance of existence by going there.

" On the other hand, from my knowledge of Sir John
Franklin (having been three times on discovery together),
I much doubt if he would quit his ship at all, except in a
boat ; for any attempt to cross the ice a long distance on
foot would be temptmg death ; and it is too laborious a
task to sledge far over such an imcven surface as those
regions generally present. That great mortality must
have occurred, and that one ship, as Sir F. Beaufort hints
at, may be lost, arc greatly to be feared; and, as on all
former expeditions, if the survivors are paralysed by the
depressing attacks of scurvy, it would then be impossible
for them, however desirous they might be, to leave the
ship, which must thus become their last most anxious
abode.

** If, however, open water should have allowed Sir John
Franklin to have resorted to his boats, then I am persuaded
ho would make for either the Mackenzie River, or, which

172

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

is far more likely, from the almost certainty he must have
felt of finding provision, for Cape Clarence and Fury Point.

'* I am aware that the whole chances of life in this
painful case depend on food; but when I reflect on Sir
John Franklin's former extraordinary preservation under
miseries and trials of the most severe description, living
often on scraps of old leather and other refuse, I cannot
despair of his finding the means to prolong existence till
aid be happily sent him."

Dr. Sir John Richardson on the same day also sends in
his opinion, as requested, on the proposed despatch of the
Enterprise and Investigator to Behring's Strait : —

" It seems to me to be very desirable that the western
shores of the Archipelago of Parry's Islands should be
searched in a high latitude in the manner proposed by the
hydrographer.

" If the proposed expedition succeeds in establishing its
winter quarters among these islands, parties detached over
the ice may travel to the eastward and south-eastward, so
as to cross the line of search which it is hoped Mr. Rae
has been able to pursue in the present summer, and thus
to determine whether any traces of the missing ships exist
in localities the most remote from Behring's Strait aud
Lancaster Sound, and from whence shipwrecked crews
would find the greatest difficulty in travelung to any place
where they could hope to find relief.

" The climate of Arctic America improves in a sen-
sible manner with an increase of western longitude. On
the Mackenzie, on the 135th meridian, the summer is
warmer than in any district of the continent in the same

{)arallel, and it is still finer, and the vegetation more
uxuriant, on the banks of the Yucon, on the 150th meri-
dian. This superiority of climate leads me to infer, that
ships well fortified against drift-ice, will find the naviga-
tion of the Arctic Seas more practicable in its western por-
tion than it has been found to the eastward. This infer-
ence is supported by my own personal experience, as far
as it goes. I met with no ice in the month of August, on
my late voyage, till I attained the 123rd meridian, and
which I was led, from that circumstance, to suppose coin-
cided with the western limits of Parry's Archipelago.

** The greater facility of navigating from the west has
been powerfully advocated by others on former occasions ;
and the chief, perhaps the only reason why the attempt to
penetrate the Polar Sea from that quarter has not been
resumed since the time of Cook is, that the length of the
previous voyage to Behring's Strait would considerably

he must have
i Fury Point.
>f life in this
reflect on Sir
:vation under
ription, Hving
iuse, I cannot
existence till

also sends in
jspatch of the
ait: —

t the western
ds should be
oposed by the

stablishing its
detached over
i-eastward, so
>ped Mr. Eae
ner, and thus
ng ships exist
fa Strait aud
recked crews
to any place

OB in a sen-
Lgitude. On
|e summer is
in the same
station more
150th meri-
no infer, that
the naviga-
'^estern por-
This infer-
^ence, as far
August, on
Tidian, and
ippose coin-
►elago.
{le west has
occasions ;
attempt to
LS not been
Lgth of the
►nsiderably

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

173

diminish the store of provisions; but the facilities ofobtain-
in<T supplies in the Pacific are now so augmented, that this
objection has no longer the same force."

Captain F. W. Becchey, writing from Cheltenham, on
the Ist of December, 18 ID, says : —

" I quite agree with Sir iVancis Beaufort in what he
has stated with regard to any casualties which Sir J.
Franklin's ships may have sustained, and entirely agree
with him and Sir Edward Parry, that the expe(iition is
probably hampered amongst the ice somewiiere to the
south-westward of Melville Island; but there is yet a pos-
sibility which does not appear to have been contemplated,
which is, that of the scurvy having spread among the crew,
and incapacitated a large proportion of them from making
any exertion towards their release, or that the whole, in a
debilitated state, may yet be clinging by their vessels,
existing sparingly upon the provision which a large mor-
tality may have spun out, in the hope of relief.

" In the first case, that of the ships being hampered and
the crews in good health, I think it certain that, as the
resources of the ships would be expended in May last, Sir
John Franklin aud his crew have abandoned the ships,
and pushed forward for the nearest point where they
might reasonably expect assistance, and which they could
reasonably reach.

" There are consequently three points to which it would
be proper to direct attention, ana as the case is urgent,
every possible method of relief should be energetically
pushed forward at as early a period as possible, and directed
to those points, which, I need scarcely say, are Barrow's
Strait, Behring's Strait, and the northern coast of
America.

*' Of the measures which can be resorted to on the
northern coast of America, the officers who have had expe-
rience there, and the Hudson's Bay Company, will be able
to judge ; but I am of opinion that nothmg should be
neglected iu that quarter ; for it seems to me almost certain
that Sir John Franklin and his crew, if able to travel, have
abandoned their ships and made for the continent; and if
they have not succeeded in gaining the Hudson's Bay out-
posts, they have been overtaken by winter before they
could accomplish their purpose.

" Lastly, as to the opinion which naturally forces itself
upon us, as to the utility of the sending relief to persons
whose means of subsistence wiQ have faQed them more than
a year by the time the relief could reach them, I would
observe, that a prudent reduction of the allowance may

i !

! V

174

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY..

lii

liavo been timely made to meet an cmerfj^cncy, or ^cat
mortality may have enabled tlie survivors to subsist up to
the time required, or it may be that the crews have just
missed reachini^ the points visited by our parties last year
before they quitted them, and in tlie one case may now bo
subsistinjL? on the supplies at Leopold Island, or l)e housed
in eastward of Point Barrow, sustained by depots which
have been fallen in with, or by the native supplies ; so
that, under all the circumstances, I do not consider their
condition so utterly hopeless that we should give up the
expectation of yet being able to render them a timely
assistance.

** The endeavours to push forward might bo continued
until the 30th of August at latest, at which time, if the
ships be not near some land where they can conveniently
pass a winter, they must direc*" their course for the main-
land, and seek a secure harbour in which they could
remain. And on no account should they risk a winter in
the pack, in consequence of the tides and shallow water
lying off the coast.

** Should the expedition reach Herschel Island, or any
other place of refuge on the coast near the mouth of the
Mackenzie or Colville Eivers, endeavours should be made
to communicate information of the ships* position and
summer's proceedings through the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany or Russian settlements, and by means of interpreters ;
and no opportunity should be omitted of gaining from the
natives information of the missing vessels, as well as of
any boat expeditions that may have gone forward, as well
as of the party under Dr. llae.

*' If nothing should be heard of Sir John Franklin in
1850, parties of observation should be sent forward in the
spring to intercept the route the ship would have pursued,
and in other useful directions between winter quarters and
Melville Island ; taking especial care that they return to
the ship before the time of liberation of the ships arrive,
which greatly depends upon their locality.

" Then, on the breaking up of the ice, should any
favourable appearance of the ice present itself, the expe-
dition might be left free to take advantage of such a
prospect, or to return round Point Barrow; making it
imperative, however, either to ensure their return, so far
as human foresight may be exercised, or the certainty of
their reaching Melville Island at the close of that season,
and so securing their return to England in 1852.

" If, after all, any unforeseen event should detain the
ships beyond the period contemplated above, every exer*

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

175

tion should bo used, by means of boats and interpreters,
to f'omnmnicato with the Mackenzie ; and should any
casualty render it necessary to abandon the vessels, it
should be borne in mind that the reserv^e-ship will remain
at her quarters until the autumn of 1853, unless she
hears of the safety of the ships and boats in other direc-
tions ; while in the other quarter, Fort Macpherson, at the
entrance of the Mackenzie, may be relied upon as an asvium,

** The Plover, or reserve-ship, should be provided with
tliree > curs' provisions for her own crew, and for con-
tinjijencies besides. She should be placed as near as pos-
sible to Point Barrow, and provided with interpreters,
and the means of offering rewards for information ; and
she should remain at her quarters so long as there can be
any occasion for her presence in the Arctic Seas ; or, if
she does not hear anything of the expedition under Cap-
tain CoUinson, as long as her provisions will last."

Sir John Hichardson offers the following advice for this
expedition : — " If," he says, " it should winter near the
mouth of the Yucan or Colville, that river may be
ascended in a boat in the month of June, before the sea
ice begins to give way. The river varies i6 width from
a mile and a half to two miles, and flows through a rich,
well-wooded valley, abounding in moose deer, and having
a comparatively mild climate. A Russian trading post
has been built on it, at the distance of three or four days*
voyage from the sea, with the current ; but as the current
is strong, from nine to twelve days must be allowed for its
aicent, with the tracking line. It would be unsafe to rely
upon receiving a supply of provisions at tlie Eussian post,
as it is not likely that any stock beyond what is necessary
for their own use is laid up by the traders ; and the ^^oose
deer being a very shy animal, is not easily shot lv an
unpractised hunter ; but the reindeer abound on the neigh-
bouring hills, and are much more approachable. The
white -fronted goose also breeds in vast flocks in that
district of the country, and may be killed in numbers,
without difficulty, in the month of June.

" If the expedition should winter within a reasonable
distance of the Mackenzie, Captain CoUinson may have
it in his power to send despatches to England by that
route.

" The river opens in June, and as soon as the ice ceases
to drive, may be ascended in a boat, with a fair wind,
under sail, or with a tracking line.

*' The lowest post at present occupied by the Hudson's
Bay Company on this river is Fort Good Hope. The

' ' (I

I:.

176

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

site of tins post has been chnnjjed flcveral times, \mt it
is at this time on the rifijht bank of the river, in latitude
60° 16' N., and is ten or eleven days' voyage from the sea.
At Point Separation, opposite to the middle channel of
the delta of the river, and on the promontory which
separates the Peel and the Mackenzie, thete is a case of
pemmican (80 lbs.) buried, ten feet distant from a tree,
which has its middle branches lopped off, and is marked
on the trunk with a broad an*ovv in black paint. A fire
was made over the pit in which the case is concealed, and
the remains of the charcoal will point out the exact spot.
This hoard was visited last year by a party from Fort
Macpherson, Peel's River, when all was safe.

" Eight bags of pemmican, weighing OOlbs. each, were
deposited at Fort Good Hope in 1848, and would remain
there last summer for the use of any boat parties that
might ascend the river in 1849 ; but it is probable that
part, or the whole, may have been used by the Company
by next year.

" A boat party should be furnished with a small seine
and a short herring net, by the use of which a good supply
of fish may often be procured in the eddies or sandy bays
of the Mackenzie. They should also be provided with a
good supply of buck-shot, swan-shot, duck-shot, and gun-
powder. The Loucheux and Hare Indians will readily
give such provisions as they may happen to have, in ex-
change for ammunition. They will expect to receive
tobacco gratuitously, as they are accustomed to do from
the traders.

" The Mackenzie is the only water-way by which any of
the Hudson's Bay Company's posts can be reached from
the Arctic Sea. There is a post on the Peel River, which
enters the delta of the Mackenzie, but no supplies can be
procured there. To the eastward of tlie Mackenzie no
ship-party would have a chance of reaching a trading post,
the nearest to the sea being Fort Resolution, on Great
Slave Lake, situated on the 61st parallel of latitude, and
the intervening hilly country, intersected by numerous
lakes and rapid rivers, could not be crossed by such a
party in less than an entire summer, even could they depend
on their guns for a supply of food. Neither would it be
advisable for a party from the ships to attempt to reach
the posts on the Mackenzie by way of the Coppermine
River and Fort Confidence ; as, in the absence of means of
transport across Great Bear Lake, the journey round that
irregular sheet of water would be long anA hazardous.
Bear Lake River is more than fifty miles long, and Fort

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

177

times, l)ut it
cr, in latitude
from the sea.
,le channel of
mtory which
'e is a case of

from a tree,
ad is marked
paint. A fire
loncealed, and
he exact spot.
ty from Fort

•

)8. each, were
would remain
t parties that
probable that
the Company

a small seine
a good supply
or sandy bays
ovided with a
phot, and gun-
will readily
have, in ex-
ct to receive
led to do from

which any of
reached from
River, which
ipplies can be
yiackenzie no
trading post,
ion, on Great
latitude, and
>y numerous
ed by such a
' they depend
would it be
pt to reach
Coppermine
of means of
round that
hazardous.
(T, and Fort

■j

Korman, the nearest post <"'n llio Mackenzie, is tliirty
niik'S above its mouth. M!r. line was instructed to ciignfj^o
an Indian family or two to hunt on the tract of country
between the Coppermine and Grout 33ear Lake in the
summer of 1850; out no great reliance can bo placed on
these Indians remaining long there, as tliey desert their
hunting quarters on very sligTit alarms, being in continual
dread of enemies, real or imaginary.

'* A case of pemraican was buried on the summit of the
bank, about four or five miles from the summit of Capo
Batliurst, the spot being marked by a pole planted in the
earth, and the exact locality of the deposit by a fire of
driftwood, much of which would remain unconsumed.

*' Another case was deposited in the cleft of a rock on a
small battlemented cliflT, which forms the extreme part of
Cape I'arry. The case was covered with loose stones ; and
a pile of stones, painted red and white, was erected imme-
diately in front of it. This clift' resembles a cocked-hat in
some points of view, and projects like a tongue from the
base of a rounded hill, which is 600 or 600 feet high.

" Several cases of pemmican were left exposed on a ledge
of rocks in latitude 68° 35' N., opposite Lambert Island,
in Dolphin and Union Strait, and in a bay to the west-
ward of Cape Krusenstern, a small boat and ten pieces of
pemmican were deposited under a high cliff above high-
water mark, without concealment. The Esquimaux on
this part of the coast are not numerous, and from the posi-
tion of this hoard, it may escape discovery by them ; but I
have every reason to believe that the locality has been
visited by Mr. llae in the past summer. A deposit of
larger size, near Cape Kendall, has been more certainly
visited by Mr. Eae. '

Capt. Sir J. C. Eoss, writes from Haslar, 11th February,
1850:—

" With respect to the probable position of the JErebus
and Terror, i consider that it is hardly possible they can
be anywhere to the eastward of Melville Island, or within
300 miles of Leopold Island, for if that were the case, they
would assuredly, during the last spring, have made their
way to that point, with the hope of receiving assistance
from the whale-ships which for several years previous to
the departure of that expedition from !fingland had been
in the habit of visiting Prince Regent Inlet in pursuit of
whales; and in that case they must have been met with, or
marks of their encampments have been found by some of
the numerous parties detached from the ^Enterprise and
Investigator along the shores of that vicinity dui'ing the

17S

PROGRESS OP AKCTTC DISCOVERY.

'1if I .

only poriocl of tlio season in whieJi ti'avellin*^ is practicable
in those rcjj^ions.

" It is probable, tlioreforo, that durinfj their first sum-
mer, which was remarkably favourable for the navigation
of those seas, they have been enabled (in obedience to
their orders) to push the ships to the westward of Banks'
Land, and have there become involved in the heavy pack
of ice which was observed from Melville Island always to
be settincf past its westernmost point in a south-east direc-
tion, and from which pack they may not have been able to
extricate their ships.

** From such a position retreat to the eastward would bo
next to impossible, whilst the journey to the Maclj:onzio
Hiver, of comparatively easy accomplishment, tojijetlier
with Sir John Franklin's knowledge of the resources in
the way and of its practicability, would strenf^then the
belief tnat this measure will have been adopted by them
during the last spring.

" If this be assumed as the present position of the Erehu»
and Terror t it would manifestly be far more easy and safe
to aflbrd them relief by means of an expedition entering
Behring's Strait, than from any other direction, as it
would not be necessary for the ships to depart so far from
the coast of North America as to preclude their keeping
up a regular communication with, tne Bussian settlements
on the Itiver Colville, or those of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany near the mouth of the Mackenzie, whilst the whola
sp»ace between any position in which the ships might;
winter, and Banks' Land could be thoroughly examined by
travelling parties early in the spring, or by boats or steam
launches at a more advanced period of the following season."

Mr. W. Snow, in a letter from New York, dated 7th of
January, 1850, suggests a plan for a well-organized expe-
dition of as many men as could be fitted out from private
funds. " For instance, let a party of 100 picked men, well
disciplined and officered, as on board a ship, and accom-
panied with all the necessary food, scientific instruments,
and everything usual on such expeditions, proceed imme-
diately, by the shortest and most available routes, to the
lands in the neighbourhood of the unexplored regions. If
possible, I would suggest that they should proceed first to
Moose Fort, on the southern part of Hudson's Bay, and
thence by small craft to Chesterfield Inlet, or otherwise by
land reach that quarter, so as to arrive there at the open-
ing of summer. From this neighbourhood let the party,
minus ten men, be divided into three separate detach-

OPINIONS AND SUOOKSTIONS.

179

s practical)!*?

ir iirst sum-
LO navif?atioa
obedience to
rd of Banks*
3 licavy pack
ad always to
th-eaat cUrcc-
) been able to

'■ard would bo
Lo Macliienzio
ent, tojijetlicr
resources in
rcngthen tho
pted by them

L of the Erehu»
) easy and safo
iition entering
irection, as it
art so far from
their keeping
an settlements
on's Bay Com-
lilst the whole
B ships might
y examined by
boats or stead;
lowing season."
:, dated 7th of
/ganized expe-
Lt from private
eked men, well
p, and accom-
ic instruments,
iroceed imme-
, routes, to the
d regions. If
jroceed first to
[son's Bay, and
[r otherwise by
•e at the open-
let the party,
larate detacn.-

. J

mcnts, caeli with s])ec'inc instructions to cxiciid tlielr
researches in a northerly and north-westerly dircetiou.
The westernmost parly to ])nK'ee(l as near as ^x^sailtle in i\
direct course to the eaaterninost limits of diacovery yet
made from Behring'a Strait, and on no account to deviate
from that course on tho western side of it, but, if neces-
sary, to tho eastward. Let the central party shape a
course as near as possible to the position of the Magnetic
Polo ; and the easternmost division direct to Prince IIp-
gent Inlet, or the westernmost point of discjovcry from
the east, and not to deviate from that course easterly.
Let each of these detachments be formed again into three
divisions, each divisJDn thus consisting of ten men. Let
the first division of each detachment pioneer tho way, fol-
lowed on tho same track by the second and the third at
stated intervals of time. On the route let the pioneers, at
every spot necessary, leave distinguishing marks to denote
the way, and also to give information to cither of the other
two prmcipal detachments as may by chance fall into their
track. To second the efforts of the three detachments, let
constant succours and other assistance be forwardi-d by
way of Moose Fort, and through the ten men left at Ches-
teraeld Inlet; and should the object for which such an
expedition was framed be happily accomplished by the
return of the lost voyagers, let messengers be forwarded
with the news, as was done with Captain Back, in the case
of ^Captain Boss. Let each of the extreme detachments,
upon arriving at their respective destinations, and upon
being joined by the whole of their body, proceed to form
plans for uniting with the central party, and ascertaining
the results already obtained by each by sending parties in
that direction. Also, let a chosen number be sent out
from each detacliment as exploring parties, wherever
deemed requisite ; and let no effort be wanted to make a
search in every direction where there is a possibility of ita
proving successful.

•' If a public and more extensive expedition bo set on
foot, I would most respectfully draw attention to the fol-
lowing suggestions: — Let a Land Expedition be formed
upon a similar plan, and with the same number of men>
Bay 300 or more, as those fitted out for sea. Let this ex-
pedition be formed into three great divisions: the one
proceeding by the Athabasca to the Great Slave Lake^
and following out Captain Back's discoveries ; the second,
through the Churchill district ; or, with the third, accord-
ing to the plan laid out for a private expedition alone ; only

ir2

(!l

iii

Hi:

180

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

keeping the whole of their forces as much as possible
bearing upon the points where success tiay be most likely
attainable.

" Each of these three great divisions to be subdi^rided
and arranged also as in the former case. The expense ot
an expedition of this kind, with all the necessary outlay
for provisions, &c., I do not think would be more than
half what the same would cost if sent by sea ; but of this I
am not a competent judge, having no definite means to
make a comparison. But there is yet another, and, I
cannot help conceiving, a more easy way of obviating all
difficulty on this point, and of reducing the expense con-
siderably.

" It m ist be evident that the i)resent position of the
Arctic voyagers is not very accessible, either by land or
Bea, else the distinguished leader at the head of the expe-
dition would long ere this have tracked a route whereoy
the whole party, or at least some of them, could return.

•* In such a case, therefore, the only way to reach them
is by, if I may use the expression, forcing an expedition
on towards them; I mean, by keeping it constantly upheld
and pushing onward. There may be, and indeed there
are, very great difficulties, and difficulties of such a nature
that, I believe, they would themselves cause another great
difficulty in the procuring of men. But, if I might make
another bold suggestion, I would respectfully ask our
government at home, why not employ picked men from
convicted criminals, as is done in explormg expeditions'in
Australia? Inducements might be held out to them;
and by proper care they would be made most serviceable
auxiliaries. Generally speaking, men convicted of offences
9.re men possessed of almost inexhaustible mental resources;
and such men are the men who, with physical powers of
endurance, are precisely those required. But this I speak
of, merely, if sufficient free men could not be found, and if
economy is studied."

Mr. John McLean, who has been twenty-five years a
partner and officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, and has
published an interesting narrative of his adventures and
experience, writing to Lady Franklin &om Canada West,
in January, 1850, suggests the following very excellent plan
as likely to produce some inteUigence, if not to lead to a
discovery of the party.

" Let a small schooner of some thirty or forty tons bur-
den, built with a view to draw as little water as possible,
and as strong as wood and iron could make her, be de-
spatched from England in company with the Hudson's

iiii^

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

181

J possible
lost likely

ubdiv^ided
expense ot
ary outlay
more than
ut of this I
means to
er, and, I
aviating all
qjense con-
ation of tlie
by land or
af tlie expe-
,te whereby
Id return,
reach tliem
I expedition
antly upheld
adeed there
ach a nature
nother great
might make
illy ask our
d men from
xpeditions'in
it to them;
it serviceable
ed of offences
tal resources;
jal powers of
t this I speak
found, and if

-five years a
^any, and has
hrentures and
panada West,
[excellent plaa
to lead to a

jrty tons bur-

er as possible,

le her, be de-

Ithe Hudson's

Bay slups. This vessel would, immediately on arriving at
York Factory, proceed to the Strait termed Sir Thomas
B/Oe's Welcome, which divides Southampton Island from
the mainland ; then direct her course to Wager E-iver,
and proceed onward until interrupted by insurmountable
obstacles. The party being safely landed, I would recom-
mend their remaining stationary untU winter traveUing
became practicable, when they should set out for the
shores of the Arctic Sea, which by a reference to Arrow-
smith's map appears to be only some sixty or seventy miles
distant ; then dividing in two parties or divisions, the one
would proceed east, the other west; and I think means
could be devised of exploring 250 or 300 miles in either
direction; and here a very important question presents
itself, — how and by what means is this enterprise to be
accomplished P

" In the first place, the services of Esquimaux would be
indispensable, for the twofold reason, that no reliable
information can be obtained from the natives without their
aid, and that they alone properly understand the art of
preparing snow-houses, or ' igloes,' for winter encamp-
ment, the only lodging which the desolate wastes of the
Arctic regions afford. Esquimaux understanding the Eng-
lish lanijuage sufiiciently well to answer our purpose, fre-
quent the Hudson's Bay Company's post in Labrador,
some of whom might be induced (I should fain hope) to
engage for the expedition; or probably the * half-breed*
natives might do so more readily than the aborigines.
They should, if possible, bo strong, active men, and good
marksmen, and not less than four in number. Failing in
the attempt to procure the natives of Labrador, then I
should think Esquimaux might be obtained at Churchill,
in Hudson's Bay; the two who accompanied Sir John in
his first land expedition were from this quarter."

An expedition of this kind was sent out by Lady Frdnk*
Imin 1852, under the charge of Mr. Kennedy. There are
various ways ot accomplishing this object, the choice of M'hich
must mainly dependon theviews andwishes of the ofiicerwho
may undertake the command. Besides the northern route,
or that by Regent Inlet, it is possible to reach Sir James
Ross and Simpson's Straits from the south, entering Hud^i
son's Bay, and passing up the Welcome to Rae Isthmus,
or again by entering Chesterfield or Wager Inlet, and
gaining the coast by Back's or the Great Fish River.

By either of these routes a great part of the exploration
must be made in boats or on foot. In every case the maiii
points to be searched are James Ross's Strait and Simps

■ 1

^Km 'r'

11 '

[

1 " ,-*

■ II ■'

\\ :
'i

' ' ^ ■ (1

% ■ '^'''^

|i|i :|,|

r'ii:i

182

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

son's Strait, if indeed there be a passage in that direction,
as laid down in Sir John Franklin's charts, though contra-
dicted by Mr. Eac, and considered still doubtful by some
Arctic navigators.

The following extract from the Geographical Journal
fihows the opinion of Franklin upon the search of this
quarter. Dr. Richardson says {Journal of Geographical
Society, vol. vi. p. 40), — " No better plan can be proposed
than the one suggested by Sir John Franklin, of sending
a vessel to Wager E-iver, and carrying on the survey from
thence in boats."

Sir John Franklin observes {ihid. p. 43), — " The Doctor
alludes in his letter to some propositions whicli he knew I
had made in the year 1828, at the command of his present
Majesty (William IV.) on the same subject, and particu-
1,'irly to the suggestion as to proceeding from Repulse or
Wager Bay. * * * A recent careful reading of all the
narratives connected with the surveys of the Wager and
Repulse Bays, and of Sir Edward Parry's Voyage, together
with the information obtained from tlic Esqirmaux by Sir
Edward Parry, Sir John Ross, and Captain Ba(;k, confirm
me in the opinion that a successful delineation of the coast
east of Point Turnagain to the Strait of the Fury and
Hecla, would be best attained by an expedition proc" eding
from Wager Bay, the northern parts of which cannot, I
think, be farther distant than forty miles from the sea, if
the information received by the above-mentioned officers
can be depended on."

Dr. McCormick particularly draws attention to Jones*
and Smith's Sounds, recommending a careful examination
of these to their probable termination in the Polar Sea : —
** Jones' Sound, with the Wellington Channel on the
west, may be found to form an island of the land called
* North Devon.' All prominent positions on both sides of
these Sounds should be searched for flag staves and piles
of stones, under which copper cylinders or bottles may
have been deposited, containing accounts of the proceed-
ings of the missing expedition ; and if successful in getting
upon its track, a clue would be obtained to the fate of our
gallant countrymen."

The Wellington Channel he considers affords one of the
best chances of crossing the track of the missing expedi-
tion.

To carry out this plan efficiently, he recommended that
a boat should be dropped, by the ship conveying the search-
ing party out, at the entrance to the Wellington Channel
in Barrow's Strait ; from this point one or both sides of

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

183

that channel and the northern shores of the Parry Islands
might be explored as far west as the season would permit
of. But should the ship be enabled to look into Jones*
Sound, on her way to Lancaster Sound, and find that
opening free from ice, an attempt might be made by the
Boat Expedition to push through it into the Wellington
Channel. In the event, however, of its proving to be
merely an inlet, which a short delay would be sufficient to
decide, the ship might perhaps be in readiness to pick up
the boat on its return, for conveyance to its ultimate des-
tination through Lancaster Sound; or as a precaution
against any unforeseen separation from the ship, a depot
of provisions should be left at the entrance to Jones' Sound
for the boat to complete its supplies from, after accom-
plishing the exploration of this inlet, and to afTord the
means, if compelled from an advanced period of the season
or other adverse circumstances, of reaching some place of
refuge, either on board a whaler or some one of the depots
of provisions on the southern shores of Barrow's Strait.

Mr. Ponny, in charge of the Lady Franklin, before
sailing, observed : —

" If an early passage be obtained, I would examine
Jones' Sound, as I have generally found in all my early
voyages clear water at the mouth of that sound, and there
is a probability that an earlier passage by this route might
be found into Wellington Strait, which outlet ought by all
means tobe thoroughly examined at the earliest opportunity,
since, if Sir J. Franklin has taken that route, with the hope
of finding a passage westward, to the north of the Parry
and Melville Islands, he may be beyond the power of
helping himself. No trace of the expedition, or practical
communication with Wellington Strait, being obtained in
this quarter, I would proceed in time to take advantage of
the first opening of the ice in Lancaster Sound, with the
view of proceeding to the west and entering YVellington
Strait, or, if this should not be practicable, of proceeding
farther westward to Cape Wallcer, and beyond, on one or
other of which places Sir John Franklin will probably have
left some notices of his course."

The Government has seen the urgent necessity of
causing the Wellington Channel to be carefully examined ;
imperative orders were sent to Sir James lloss to search
it, but he was drifted out of Barrow's Strait against his will,
before he received those orders bv the North Star.

I have already stated that Sir John Franklin 's instructions
directed him to try the first favourable opening to the
Bouth-vvest after passing Cape Walker ; and failing in that,

':■ »

:|' .^

,11

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

to try tlio "Wellington Channel. Every oflBcer in the
British service, as a matter of course, follows his instruc-
tions, as far as they are compatible with the exigencies of
the case, be it what it may, nor ever deviates from them
without good and justifiable cause. If, then. Sir John
Pranklin failed in finding an opening to the south-west of
Cape Walker, it is reasonable to suppose he obeyed his
instructions, and tried the Wellington Channel. The
second probabihty in favour of this locality is, that Sir
John Franklin expressed to many of his friends a favour-
able opinion of the Wellington Channel, and, which is of
far more consequence, intimated his opinion officially, and
before the expedition was determined upon, that this strait
seemed to ofier the best chance of success.

Moreover, Capt. Fitzjames, his immediate second in
command in the Mrebusy was strongly in favour of the
Wellington Channel, and always so expressed himself. —
See his letter, before quoted, to Sir John Barrow, p. 203.

Who can doubt that the opinion of Capt. Fitzjames, a
man of superior mind, beloved by all who knew him, and
in the service " the observed of all observers," would have
great weight with Sir John Franklin, even if Sir John had
not been himself predi8j)osed to listen to him. What adds
confirmation to these views is, that in 1840, a few years
prior to the starting of the expedition. Col. Sabine pub-
ushed the deeply interesting " W'arrative of Baron Wran-
gel's Expedition to the Polar Sea, undertaken between the
years 1820 and 1823," and that in his preface the translator
points to the Wellington Channel as the most likely course
for the successful accomplishment of the north-west pas-
sage. "Setting aside," he says, "the possibility of the
existence of unknown land, the probability of an open sea
existing to the north of the Parry Islands, and communi-
cating with Behring Strait, appears to rest on strict
analogical reasoning." And again he adds, "all the attempts
to efl'ect the north-west passage, since Barrow's Strait was
first passed in 1819, have consisted in an endeavour ta
force a vessel by one route or another through this land-
locked and ice-encumbered portion of the Polar Ocean."

No examination has made known what may be the state
of the sea to the north of the Parry Islands ; whether
similar impediments may there present themselves to
navigation, or whether a sea may not there exist ofiering
no difficulties whatever of the kind, as M. Von Wrangel
has shown to be the case to the north of the Siberian
Islands, and as by strict analogy we should be justified iui
expecting.

PUBLIC AND PRIVATfi REWARDS OFFERED. 185

ler in the
lis instruc-
igencies of
from them
Sir John
ith-west of
obeyed his
nnel. The
8, that Sir
Is a favour-
which is of
ficially, and
it this strait

I second in
rour of the
d himself. —
ow, p. 203.
?itzjames, a
5W him, and
' would have
5ir John had
What adds
a few years
Sabine pnb-
laron "Wran-
between the
tie translator
likely course
;h-west pas-
■ lility of the
an open sea
id communi-
it on strict
jhe attempts
's Strait was
ideavour to
this land-
[r Ocean."
be the state
is ; whether
jmselves to
xist offering
bn Wrangel
[he Siberian
justified ini

Colonel Sabine is an officer of ^eat scientific experience,
and from having made several Polar voyages, he has
devoted great attention to all that relates to that quarter.
He was in constant commimication with Sir John Frank-
lin when the expedition was fitting or^ and it is but
reasonable to suppose that he would be somewhat guided
by his opinion.

We have, then, the opinions of Franklin himself, Colonel
Sabine, and Captain Fitzjames, all bearing on this point,
and we must remember that Parry, who discovered and
named this channel, saw nothing when passing and re-
passing it, but a clear open sea to the northward.

Lieut. S. Osbom, in a paper dated the 4th of January,
1850, makes the following suggestions : —

'* General opinion places the lost expedition to the west
of Cape Walker, and south of the latitude of Melville
Island. The distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks'
Land is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it will
be seen that nowhere else does the American continent
approach so near to the supposed position of Frankhn's
expedition.

"Banks* Land bears from Cape Bathurst N. 41° 49'
E. 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in the
summer season a portion of this distance may be tra-
versed in boats.

" Dr. Richardson confirms previous reports of the ice
being light on the coast east of the Mackenzie E-iver to
Gape Bathurst, and informs us that the Esquimaux had
seen * no ice to seaward for two moons.*

" Every mile traversed northward by a party from Cape
Bathurst would be over that unknown space in which traces
of Franklin may be expected. It is advisable that such
a second party be despatched from Cape Bathurst, in order
that the prosecution of Dr. Rae's examination of the sup-
posed channel between WoUaston and Victoria Lands
may in no way be interfered with, by his attention being
called to the westward."

In March, 1818, the Admiralty announced their intention
of rewarding the crews of any whaling ships that brought
accurate information of the missing expedition, with the
sum of 100 guineas or more, according to circumstances.
Lady Franklin also about the same time offered rewards
of 2000/. and 3000Z., to be distributed among the owner,
officers, and crew discovering and affording relief to her
husband, or making extraordmary exertions for the above
object, and, if required, bringing Sir John Franklin and
his party to England.

« '

186

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

ill »

ill

In March, 1850, the following further rewards wero
offered by the British Grovernment to persons of any
country: —

1st. To any party or person who, in the judffraent of
the Board oi Admiralty, shall discover and effectually
relieve the crews of H.M. ships Erebus and Terror^ the
sum of 20,000/., or,

2nd. To any party, or parties, &c., who shall discover
and effectually relieve any portion of the crews, or shall
convey such intelUgence as shall lead to the relief of any
of the crew, the sum of 10,000/.

3rd. To any party or parties who shall by virtue of hia
or their efforts, first succeed in ascertaining their fate,
10,000Z.

In a despatch from Sir George Simpson to Mr. Rae,
dated Lachine, the 21st of January, 1850, he says : —

•' If they be still alive, I feel satisfied that every effort
it may be in the power of man to make to succour them
will be exerted by yourself and the Company's officers in
Mackenzie River; liut should your late search have unfor-
tunately ended in disappointment, it is the desire of the
Company that you renew your explorations next summer*
if possilJle.

'* By the annexed correspondence you will observe that
the opinion in England appears to be that our explorations
ought to be more particularly directed to that portion of
the Northern Sea lying between Cape Walker on the
east, Melville Island and Banks' Land to the north, and
the continental shore or the Victoria Islands to the south.

" As these limits are believed to embrace the course
that would have been pursued by Sir John Eranklin,
Cape Walker being one of the points he was particularly
instructed to make for, you wiU therefore be pleased,
immediately on the receipt of this letter, to fit out another
exploring party to proceed in the direction above indicated,
but varying the route that may have been followed last
summer, which party, besides their own examination of
the coast and islands, should be instructed to offer liberal
rewards to the Esquimaux to sonich for some vestiges of
the missing expedition, and similar rewards should be
offered to the Indians inhabiting near the coast and Peel's
E-iver, and the half-bred hunters of Mackenzie River, the
latter being, perhaps, more energetic than the former;
assuring them that whoever may procure authentic intel-
ligence will be largely rewarded.

'* Simultaneously with the expedition to proceed towards
Cape Walker, one or two small parties should be despatched

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

187

to the westward of the Mackenzie, in the direction of
Point Barrow, one of whicli misjlit pass over to the Youcon
River, and descending that stream to the sea, carry on
their explorations in that quarter, while the other going
down the Mackenzie might trace the coast thence towards
the Youcon. And these parties must also be instructed
to offer rewards to the natives to prosecute the search in
all directions.

** By these means there is reason to believe that in the
course of one year so minute a search may be made of the
coast and the islands, that in the event of the expedition
having passed in that direction, some trace of their pro-
gress would certainly be discovered.

" From your experience in Arctic discovery, and peculiar
qualifications for such an undertaking, I am in hopes you
maybe enabled yourself to assume thecommandof the party
to proceed to the northward ; and, as leaders of the two
parties to explore the coast to the westward of the Macken-
zie, you will have to select such officers of the Company's
service within the district as may appear best qualified for
the duty : Mr. Murray, I think, would be a very fit man
for one of the leaders, and if one party be sent by way of
the Youcon, he might take charge of it. In the event of
your going on this expedition, you will be pleased to mako
over the charge of the district to Chief Trader Bell during
your absence.

" In case you may be short-handed, I have by this con-
veyance instructed Chief Factor Ballenden to engage in
Red River ten choice men, accustomed to boating, and
well fitted for such a duty as will be required of them ;
and if there be a chance of their reaching Mackenzie
River, or even Athabasca, before the breaking up of the
ice, to forward them immediately.

" Should the season, however, be too far advanced to
enable them to accomplish the journey by winter travel-
ling, Mr. Ballenden is directed to increase the party to
fourteen men, with a guide to be despatched from !Eled
River immediately after the opening of the navigation, in
two boats, laden with provisions and flour, and a few
bales of clothing, in order to meet, in some degree, the
heavy drain that will be occasioned on our resources in
provisions and necessary supplies in Mackenzie River.
The leader of this party from Red River may, perhaps,
be qualified to act as the conductor of one of the parties
to examine the coast to the westward."

On the 5th of February, 1850, another consultation
took place at the Admu-alty among those officers most ex-

188

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

perienced in these matters, and their opinions in Tvriting
were solicited. It is important, therefore, to submit these
as fully as possible to the consideration of the reader.

The first is the report of the hydrof^apher of the
Admiralty, dated the 29th of January, 1850 :—

•* Memorandum bv Rear-Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort,

K,C.B.

"The Behring's Strait expedition being at length,
fairly off, it appears to me to be a duty to submit to their
Lorrlships that no time should now be lost in equipping
anot her set of vessels to renew the search on the opposite
fiidr, through Baffin's Bay; and this being the fifth year
tha^/ the Erehus and Terror have been absent, and pro-
bably reduced to only casual supplies of food and fuel, it
may be assumed that this search should be so complete
and effectual as to leave unexamined no place in which, by
any of the suppositions that have been put forward, it is
at all likely they may be found.

" Sir John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders
with levity, and therefore his first attempt was undoubt-
edly made in the direction of Melville Island, and not to
the westward. If foiled in that attempt, he naturally
hauled to the southward, and using Banks' Land as a
barrier against the northern ice, he would try to make
westing under its lee. Thirdly, if both of these roads
were found closed against his advance, he perhaps availed
himself of one of the four passages between the Parry
Islands, including the Wellmgton Channel. Or, lastly,
he may have returned to Baffin's Bay, and taken the
inviting opening of Jones* Sound.

" All those ibur tracks must therefore be diligently ex-
amined before the search can be called complete, and the
only method of rendering that examination preempt and
efficient wiU be through the medium of steam i while only
useless expense and reiterated disappointment will attend
the best eflbrts of sailing vessels, leaving the lingering
survivors of the lost ships, as well as their relatives in
England, in equal despair. Had Sir James Boss been- in
a steam vessel, he would not have been surrounded by ice
and swept out of the Strait, but by shooting under the
protection of Leopold Island, he would have waited there
till that fatal field had passed to the eastward, and ho
then would have found a perfectly open sea up to Melville
Island.

"The best application of steam to ice-going vessels would
be Ericson's screw j but the screw or paddles of any of

OFFICIAL REPORT OF ADMIRAL BEAUFORT. 189

I in writing
ibmit these
reader,
her of the

s Beaufort,

at length
mit to their
a equipping
the opposite
le fifth year
[it, and pro-

and fuel, it
BO complete
in which, by
brward, it b

it his orders
sras undoubt-
d, and not to
he naturally
' Land as a
try to make
' these roads
rhaps availed
n the Parry
Or, lastly,
d taken the

iligently ex-
ete, and the
prompt and
i while only
it will attend
he lingering
relatives in
Boss been in
unded by ice
ig under the
waited there
ard, and ho
p to Melville

vessels would
les of any of

our moderate-sized vessels might be made to elevate with
facUitv. Vessels so fitted would not require to be fortified
in an *> iraordinary degree, not more than common whalers.
From the log-like quiescence with which a sailing vessel
must await the crush of two approaching floes, they must
be as strong as wood and iron can make them ; but the
steamer slips out of the reach of the collision, waits till
the shock is past, and then profiting by their mutual
recoil, darts at once through the transient opening.

" Two such vessels, and each of them attended by two
tenders laden with coals and provisions, would be sulHcient
for the main lines of search. Every prominent point of
land where notices might have been left would be visited,
details of their own proceedings would be deposited, and
each of the tenders would be left in proper positions
as points of rendezvous on which to fall back.

•* Besides these two branches of the expedition, it would
J)e well to allow the whaling captain (Penny) to carry out
his proposed undertaking. His local knowledge, his
thorough acquaintance with all the mysteries of the ice
navigation, and his well-known skiU and resources, seem
to point him out as a most valuable auxiliary.

" But whatever vessels may be chosen for this service,
I would beseech their lordships to expedite them ; all cup
attempts have been deferred too long ; and there is now
reason to believe that very early in the season, in May or
even in April, Baffin's Bay may oe crossed before the accu-
mulated ice of winter spreads over its surface. If they
arrive rather too soon, they may very advantageously
await the proper moment in some of the Greenland har-
bours, preparmg themselves for the coming efibrts and
struggles, and procuring Esquimaux interpreters.

" In order to press every resource into the service of
this noble enterprise, the vessels should be extensively
ftimished with means for blasting and splitting the ice ;

{>erhaps circular saws might be adapted to the steamers, a
aunch to each party, with a small rotary engine, sledges
for the shore, and light boats with sledge bearings for
broken ice fields ; balloons for the distribution of adver-
tisements, and kites for the explosion of lofty fire-balls.
And, lastly, they should have vigorous and numerous
crews, so that when detachments are away, other opera-
tions should not be intermitted for want of physical
strength.

" As the council of the Eoyal Society, some time ago,
tiiought proper to remind their lordships of the propriety
of instituting this search, it would be fair now to call oa

100

PROGUr.SS OP AKCTIC DISCOVEllY.

'!) '

that learned body for all tlio advice and su^fjcstions that
science and philosophy can contribute towards the accom-
plishment of the j^reat object on which the eyes of all
Enijfland, and indeed of all the world, are now entirely
fixed."

Captain Beechey, writincr to the Secretary of the Admi-
ralty, 7th of February, 1850, says : —

** The urgent nature of the case alone can justify the
use of ordinary steamers in an icy sea, and great prudence
and judgment will be recjuired on the part of their com-
manders, to avoid being disabled by collision and pressure.

" I would also add, as an exception, that I think Leopold
Island and Cape Walker, il' possible, should both be exa-
mined prior to any attempt being made to penetrate in other
directions from Barrow's Strait, and that the bottom of
Regent Inlet, about the Pelly Islands, should not be left
unexamined. In the memorandum submitted to their
lordships on 17th January, 1849, this quarter was con-
sidered of importance ; and I am still of opinion, that, had
Sir John Franklin abandoned his vessels near the coast of
America, and much short of the Mackenzie Kiver, he
would have preferred the probability of retaining the use
of his boats until he found relief m Barrow's Strait, to
risking an overland journey vid the before-mentioned
river; it must be remembered, that at the time he sailed,
Sir George Back's discovery had rendered it very probable
that Boothia was an island.

" An objection to the necessity of this search seems to
be, that had Sir John Franklin taken that route, he would
have reached Fury Beach already. However, I cannot
but think there will yet be found some good grounds for
the Esquimaux sketch, and that their meaning has been
misunderstood ; and as Mr. M'Cormick is an enterprising
person, whose name has already been before their lord-
ships, I would submit whether a boat expedition from
Leopold Depot, under his direction, would not satisfac-
torily set at rest all inquiry upon this, now the only
quarter unprovided for."

Captain Sir W. E. Parry states: —

** 1 am decidedly of opinion that the main search should
be renewed in the direction of Melville Island and Banks'
Land, including as a part of the plan the thorough exami-
nation of Wellmgton Strait and of the other simdar open-
ings between the islands of the group bearing my name.
I entertain a growing conviction of the probability of the
mlssinfir ships, or at l^ast a considerable portion of the

OPINIONS OF AllCTIC VOYAOKKS.

191

jtiona that
he aoc'Otn-
»yes of all
w entirely

the Admi-

justify the
\t prudence
their com-
id pressure,
ink Leopold
)oth be exa-
:ate in other
E) bottom of
not be left
ted to their
er vras con-
on, that, had
r the coast of
ie River, he
ining the use
wr's Strait, to
re-mentioned
me he sailed,
rery probable

irch seems to
ate, he would
ver, I cannot
i grounds for
ling has been
a enterprising
re their lord-
Dedition from
not satisfac-
low the only

search should
nd and Banks'
orough exami-
p similar open-
rino" my name,
bability of the
portion of the

crows, bfiufT slmt up at Melville Island. iJanks' Land, or
in that neighbourhood, ngrocing as I do with Ivcar-Aihiiiral
Sir Francis Beaufort, in his report read yesterday to tlio
Board, that * Sir John Franklin is not a man to treat his
orders with levity,' which he would be justly chargeable
with doing if ho attached greater weight to any notions
ho might personally entertain than to the Admiralty
instructions, which ne well knew to bo founded on tho
experience of former attempts, and on the beat information
which could then be obtained on the subject. For these
reasons I can scarcely doubt that he would employ at least
two seasons, those of ISl-S and 181G, in an imrcmitting
attempt to penetrate directly westward or south-westward
towards Behring's Strait.

" Supposing this conjecture to be correct, nothing can
be more likely than that Sir John Franklin's ships, having
penetrated in seasons of ordinary temperature a consider-
able distance in that direction, have oecn locked up by
successive seasons of extraordinary rigour, thus baffling
the efforts of their weakened crews to escape from the ice
in either of tho two directions by Behring's or Barrow's
Straits.

" And here I cannot but add, that my own conviction of
this probabiUty— for it is only with probabihties that we
have to deal — -has been greatly strengthened by a letter I
have lately received from Colonel Sabine, of the Boyal
Artillery, of which I had the honour to submit a copy to
Sir Francis Baring. Colonel Sabine having accompanied
two successive expeditions to Baffin's Bay, including that
under my command which reached MelviDe Island, I con-
sider his views to be well worthy of their lordships' atten-
tion on this part of the subject.

" It must be admitted, however, that considerable weight

is due to the conjecture which has been oflfered by persons

capable of forming a sound judgment, that having failed,

as I did, in the attempt to penetrate westward. Sir John

Franklin might deem it prudent to retrace his steps, and

was enabled to do so, in order to try a more northern

( route, either through Wellington Strait or some other of

j those openings between the Parry Islands to which I have

j already referred. And this idea receives no small import-

j ance from the fact (said to be beyond a doubt) of Sir John

[Franklin having before his departure expressed such an

'intention in case of faihng to the westwara.

" I cannot, therefore, consider the intended search to
I 'be complete without making the examination of Welling-

102

PROORKSS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

JfV

■ :

:,. J'

ton Strait and its adiaeont oponinjijs a distinct part of tlio

flan, to bo performed by one portion of the vessels wLieh
shall presently propose for the main expedition.

** Much stress has likewise been laid, and I think not
altof^cther without reason, on the propriety of sojirchin^
.Tones' and Smith's Sounds in the north-western part of
Bailin's Bay. Considerable interest has latclv been
attached to Jones' Sound, from the fact of its haviiii; been
recently navigated by at least one enterprisinjjf whaler,
and foimd to bo of great width, free from ice, with ii swell
from the westward, and having no land visible from the
mast-head in that direction. It seems more than probable,
therefore, that it may be found to communicate with Wel-
lington Strait ; so that if Sir John Franklin's ships have
been detained anywhere to the northward of the Pan-y
Islands, it would be by Jones' Sound that he would pro-
bably endeavour to effect his escape, rather than by the
less direct route of Barrow's Strait. I do not myself
attach much importance to the idea of Sir John Franklin
having so far retraced his steps as to come back through
Lancaster Sound, and recommence his enterprise by enter-
ing Jones' Sound; but the possibility of liis attempting
lus escape through this fine opening, and the report (though
somewhat vague) of a cairn of stones seen by one of the
whalers on a headland within it, seems to me to render
it highly expedient to set this question at rest by a search
in this direction, including the examination of Smith's
Sound also."

I beg to cite next an extract from the letter of Dr. Sir
John Kichardson to the Secretary of the Admiralty : —

" Haslar Hospital, Gosport, 1th of February , 1850.

" With respect to the direction in which a successful
search may be predicated with the most confidence, very
various opinions have been put forth ; some have supposed I
either that the ships were lost before reaching Lancaster
Sound, or that Sir John FrankUn, finding an impassable
barrier of ice in the entrance of Lancaster Sound, may
have sought for a passage through Jones' Sound. I do
not feel inclined to give much weight to either conjecture.
When we consider the strength of the Erebus and Terrm\\
calculated to resist the strongest pressure to which ships
navigating Bafiin's Bay have been Known to be subject, in
conjunction with the fact that, of the many whalers which
have been crushed or abandoned since the commencement
of the fishery, the crews, or at least the greater part of I
them, have, in almost every case, succeeded in reaehingl

OPIXIONS AXD SUOGESTIOrS.

ir'3

part of tlio

«»sels wliicli

on.

I t\im\i. not

tern part of
latclv 1)een
Imvinu' ^t>cn
ginjT whaler,
with a swell
bio from the
uui probable,
tto with Wei-
l'!* 8hip9 bave
of the Pan-y
10 would pro-
r than by the
\o not myself
rohn Franklm
back through
prise by enter-
his attemptmg
report (though
by one of the
) me to render
est by a search
Lon of Smiths

iter of Dr. Sir
[dmiralty : —

other ships, or the Dauish scttlementf*, we cannot belioTe
that the two discovery siiips, which wore seen on the etlijc
of the middle ice so early as tlie 2Hth of July, can have
been so suddenly and tr*nlly overwhelmed as to preclude
some one of the intelligcuL ollk-ers, whose minds were pre-
pared for every emergeucv, wiili tlieir select crews of men,
exi)erienced in the ice, Ircm placuitj a boat on the ice or
water, and thus carryin^r inteihgcnce of tlie disaster to one
of the manv whalers w'irh remained for two months
after that date in those yt-asi. and this iu the absence of
any unusual catastrophe nmoui^ the lishing vessels that
season.

" With respect to Jones' Sonnd, it is admitted by all
who are intimately acquainied Mith Sir John Frunlflin,
that his first endeaVour would be to act up to the letter of
his instructions, and that therefore he would not lijjhtly
abandon the attempt to pass Lancaster Sound. Froni
tjie logs of the whalers year after year, wo learn that
w hen once they have succeedetl in roundintj the middle
ice, thev enter Lancaster Sound with facility : had Sir
John Iranklin, then, gained that Sound, and from the
premises we appear to be fully justified in coneludinir that
he did so, and had he afterwards encountered a compact
field of ice, barring Barrow's Strait and AVelliugtou Sound,
he would then, after being convinced that he would lose
the season in attempting to bore through it, have borne
up for Jones' Sound, but not until he had erected a
conspicuous landmark, and lodged a memorandum of his
reason for deviating from his instructions.

" The absence of such a signal-post in Lancaster Sound
is an argument against the expedition having turned back
from thence, and is, on the other hand, a strong support
to the supposition that Barrow's Strait was as open in 1845
as when Sir W. E. PaiTv first passed it in 1819 ; that,
such being the case. Sir John Franklin, without delay and
without landing, pushed on to Cape Walker, and that,
Bubsequently, in endeavouring to penetrate to the south-
west, he became involved in the drift ice, which, there is
reason to believe, urged by the prevailing winds and the
set of the flood tides, is carried towards Coronation Gulf,
through channels more or less intricate. Should he have
found no opening at Cape Walker, he would, of course,
have sought one further to the west; or, finding the
southerly and westerly opening blocked by ice, he might
have tried a northern passage.

" In either case, the plan of search propounded by Sir
Francis Bea^ofort seems to provide against every contin-

M I

tiaw

♦I

li
I

i:;'

It,

194

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERV.

gency, especially when taken in conjunction with Captain
Collinson's expedition, vid Behring's Strait, and the boat
parties from the Mackenzie.

" I do not venture to offer an opinion on the strength or
equipment of the vessels to be employed, or other merely
nautical questions, further than oy remarking, that the
use of the small vessels, which forms part of Sir Francis
Beaufort's scheme, is supported by the success of the
early navigators with their very small craft, and the lato
gallant exploit of Mr. Shedden, in rounding Icy Cape and
Point Barrow, in the ^ancy Dawson yacht.

" And further, with respect to the comparative merits
of the paddles and screw m the Arctic seas, I beg leave
merely to observe, that as long as the screw is immersed
in water it will continue to act, irrespective of the tempe-
rature of the air ; but when, as occurs late in the autumn,
the atmosphere is suddenly cooled below the freezing
point of sea water, by a northerly gale, while the sea
itself remains warmer, the paddles will be speedily clogged
by ice accumulating on the floats as they rise through the
air in every revolution. An incident recorded by Sir
James C. lloss furnishes a striking illustration of the
powerful action of a cold wind ; I allude to a fish having
been thrown up by the spray against the bows of the
Ten'or, and firmly frozen there, during a gale in a high
southerly latitude. Moreover, even with the aid of a
ready contrivance for topping the paddles, the flatness or
hollowness of the sides of a paddle steamer renders her
less fit for sustaining pressure ; the machinery is more in
the way of oblique beams for strengthening, and she is
less elBcient as a sailing vessel when the steam is let off,"

Memorandum enclosed in Dr. M' Cormich's Letter
of the Ist of January, 1850.

** In the month of April last, I laid before my Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty a. plan of search for the
missing expedition under the command of Captain Sir
John Franklin, by means of a boat expedition up Jones'
and Smith's Sounds, volunteering myself to conduct it.

" In that plan I stated the reasons which had induced
me to direct my attention more especially to the openings
at the head of Baffin's Bay, which, at the time were not
included within the general scheme of search.

" Wellington Channel, however, of all the probable open-
ings into the Polar Sea, possesses the highest degree of in-
terest, and the exploration of it f s of such paramount import'

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

195

b Captain
L the boat

itrengtli or
tier merely
r, that the
Sir Francis
-ess of the
,nd the late
y Cape and

itive merits
I beg leave
is immersed
f the tempe-
the autumn,
the freezing
bile the sea
edily clogged
) through the
rded by Sir
ration of the
a fish havmg
bows of the
rale in a high
the aid of a
he flatness or
r renders her
ery is more in
ipr, and she 13
am is let off."

jk's Letter

fore my Lords
search for the
f Captain Sir
tionup Jones'
o conduct it.
h had induced
;o the openings
time were not

ih.

probable open-
(St degree of in-
amount impoti-

ance, that I should most unquestionably have comprised it
within my plan of search, had not Her Majesty's ships
Enitrpri^t and Investigatoi' been employed at the time in
Barrow's Strait for the express purpose of examining
this inlet and Cape Walker, two of the most essential
points of search in the whole track of the Erebus and
Terror to the westward; being those points at the very
threshold of his enterprise, from which Sir John FrankHn
would take his departure from the known to the unlmown,
whether he shaped a south-westerly course from the
latter, or attempted the passage in a higher latitude from
the former point.

" The return of the sea expedition from Port Leopold,
and the overland one from the Mackenzie Eiver, Doth
alike imsuccessful in their search, leaves the fate of the
^^allant Franklin and his companions as problematical as
ever ; in fact, the case stands precisely as it did two jeara
ago ; the work is yet to be begun ; everything remams to
be accomplished.

" In renewal of the search in the ensuing spring, more
would be accompUshed in boats than in any other way,
not only by Behring's Strait, but from the eastward.
For the difficulties attendant on icy navigation, which
form so insuperable a ban-ier to the progress of ships,
would be readily surmounted by boats j by means of
which the coast line may be closely examined tor cairns of
stones, under which Sir John Franklin would most indu-
bitably deposit memorials of his progress in all prominent
positions, as opportunities might offer.

" The discovery of one of these mementos would, in
all probability, afford a clue that might lead to the rescue
of our enterprising countrymen, ere another and sixth
winter close in upon them, should they be still in existence;
aud the time has not yet an'ived for abandoning hope.

" 111 renewing once more the offer of my services, which
I do most cheerfully, I see no reason for changing the
opinions I entertained last spring; subsequent events
have only tended to confirm them. I then beUeved, and
I do so still, after a long and mature consideration of the
subject, that Sir John Franklin's ships have been arrested
in a high latitude, and beset in the heavy polar ice north-
ward oi the Parry Islands, and that their probable course
thither has been through the Wellington Channel, or one
of the Sounds at the northern extremity of Baffin's Bay,

" This appears to me to be the only view of the case
that can in any way account for the entire absence of all

19G

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

ri ) »

f i

I 1

tidin;?8 of tliem throughout so protracted a period of time
(unless all have perished by some sudden and overwhelm-
ing catastrophe).

"Isolated as their position would bo under such cir-
cumstances, any attempt to reach the continent of
America at such a distance would be hopeless in the
extreme: and the mere chance of any party from the
ships reaching the top of BaflBn's Ba;^ at the very moment
of a whaler's brief and uncertain visit would be attended
with hj far too great a risk to justify the attempt, for
failure would ensure inevitable destruction to the whole
part}' ; therefore their only alternative would be to keep
together in their ships, should no disaster have happened
to them, and by husbanding their remaining resources,
eke them out with whatever wild animals may come
within their reach.

" H;id Sir John Franklin been able to shape a south-
westerly course from Cape Walker, as directed by hi«
instructions, the probability is, some intelligence of him
would have reached this coxmtry ere this (nearly five years
having already elapsed since his departure from it).
Parties would have been sent out from his shi^, either
in the direction of the coast of America or Barrow's
Strait, whichever happened to be the most accessible.
Esquimaux would have been fallen in with, and tidings of
the long-absent expedition have been obtained.

" Failing in penetrating beyond Cape Walker, Sir John
Franklin would have left some notice of his future inten-
tions on that spot, or the nearest accessible one to it ;
and should he then retrace his course for the Wellington
Channel, the most probable conjecture, he would not
pass up that inlet without depositing a further account
of his proceedings, either on the western or eastern point
of the entrance to it.

'* Therefore, should my proposal meet with their Lord-
ships' approbation, I would most respectfully submit, that
the party I have volunteered to conduct should be landed
at the entrance to the Wellington Channel, or the nearest
point attainable by any ship that their Lordships may
deem fit to employ in a future search, consistently witJi
any other services that ship may have to perform ; and
should a landing be efiected on the eastern side, I would
propose commencing the search from Cape Riley or
Beechey Island in a northerly direction, carefully ex-
amining every remarkable headland and indentation of
the western coast of North Devon for memorials of the

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

197

missing expedition ; I would then cross over the Welling-
ton Channel, and continue the search along the northern
shore of Cornwallis Island, extendincr the exploration to
the Trestward as far as the remaining portion of the season
would permit, so as to secure the retreat of the party
before the winter set in, returning either by the eastern
or western side of Cornwallis Island, as circumstances
might indicate to be the most desirable at the time, after
asc'Ttaining the general extent and trending of the shores
of that island.

" As, however, it would be higlily desirable that Jones'
Sound should not be omitted in the search, more especially
as a whaler, last season, reached its entrance and reported
It open, I would further propose, that the ship conveying
the exploring party out should look into this openinij on
her way to Lancaster Sound, if circumstances permitted
of her doing so early in the season; and, if found to be
free from ice, the attempt might be made by the boat
expedition to push through it to the westward in this
latitude; and should it prove to be an opening into the
Polar Sea, of which I think there can be little doubt, a
"rent saving of time and distance would be accomplished.
Failing in this, the ship should be secured in some central
position in the vicinity of the Wellington Channel, as a
point d'appui to fall back upon in the search from that
quarter.

(Signed) E. M'Coemick, R.N.

" Ttcickenham, 1st of January, 1850."

Outline of a Plan of an Overland Journey to the Polar
Sea, hy the Way of the Coppermine River, in Search of
Sir John Franklin's Expedition, suggested in 1S47.

" If Sir John Franklin, guided by his instructions, has
passed through Barrow's Strait, and shaped a south-
'vcsterly course, from the meridian of Cape Walker, with
the intention of gaining the northern coast of the con-
tinent of America, and so passing through the Dolphin
and Union Strait, along the shore of that continen?t, to
Eehring's Strait;

" His greatest risk of detention by the ice throughout
tills course would be found between the parallels of 74°
and 69"^ north latitude, and the meridians of 100° and 110°
vrest longitude, or, in other words, that portion of the
iioi'th-\Test passage which yet remains unexplored, occupy*

:•■■ I

198

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

mcr the space between the western coast of Boothia on the
one side, and the island or islands forming Banks' and
Victoria Lands on the other.

" Should the JErehus and Terror have been beset in the
heavy drift ice, or wrecked among ^L it and the broken
land, which in all probability exists there, whilst contend-
ing with the prevalent westerly winds in this quarter ;

" The Coppermine Eiver would decidedly oner the most
direct route and nearest approach to that portion of the
Polar Sea, and, after crossing Coronation Gulf, the average
breadth of the Strait between the Continent and Victoria
Land is only about twenty-two miles.

" From this point a careful search should be commenced
in the direction of Banks' Land; the intervening space
between it and Victoria Land, occupying about five degrees,
or little more than 300 mi^3s, could, I think, be accom-
plished in one season, and a retreat to winter quarters
effected before the winter set in. As the ice in the Cop-
permine Biver breaks up in June, the searching party
ought to reach the sea by the beginning of August, which
would leave two of the best months of the year for
exploring the Polar Sea, viz., August and September.

** As it would be highly desirable that every available
day, to the latest period of the season, should be devoted
to the search, I snould propose wintering on the coast in
the vicinity of the mouth of the Coppermine Eiver, which
would also afford a favourable position from which to re-
commence the search in the following spring, should the
first season prove unsuccessful.

" Of course the object of such an expedition as I have
proposed is not with the view of taking supplies to such
a numerous party as Sir John Franklin has under his
command; but to find out his position, and acquaint him
where a depot of provisions would be stored up for
himself and crews at my proposed winter quarters, where
a party should be left to build a house, estabHsh a fishery,
and hunt for game, during the absence of the searching
party.

" To carry out this plan efficiently, the Hudson's Bay
Company should be requested to lend their powerful
co-operation in furnishing guides, supplies of pemmican,
&c., for the party on their route and at winter quarters.
Without entering into details here, I may observe, that I
should consider one boat, combining the necessary requi-
sites in her construction to fit her for either the river
navigation or that of the shores of the Polar Sea, would
be quite sufficient, with a crew one-half sailors, and the

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

199

otlier half Canadian boatmen; the latter to be engaged at
Montreal, for which place I would propose leaving Eng-
land in the month of February.

" Should such an expedition even fail in its main object
— the discovery of the position of the missing ships and
their crews, the long-sought-for Polar passage may be
accomplished.

(Signed) K. M'Coemick, E.N.

" Woolwich, 1847."

Copy of a letter from Lieutenant Sherard Oslorn to the
Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty.

" Ealing, Middlesex, 4ith January, 1830.

"My Loeds, — A second attempt to reach Sir John
Pranklin's expedition being about to be tried during the
present year, I take the liberty of calUng your attention to
the enclosed proposition for an overland party to be des-
patched to the shores of the Polar Sea, with a view to
their traversing the short distance between Cape Bathurst
and Banks' Land. My reasons for thus trespassing on
your attention are as foUows :

*' 1st. General opinion places the lost expedition to the
west of Cape "Walker, and south of the latitude of Melville
Island.

•' The distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks' Land is
only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it will be s'ecn
that nowhere else does the American continent approach
80 near to the supposed position of Franklin's expedition.

" 2nd. As a starting point, Cape Bathurst offers great
advantages j the arrival of a party sent there from England
may be calculated upon to a day ; whereas the arrival of
Captain Collinson in the longitude of Cape Barrow, or
that of an eastern expedition in Lancaster Sound, will
depend upon many imconfcrollable contingencies. The
distance to be ;performed is comparatively little, and the
certainty of bemg able to fall back upon supplies offers
great advantages. Captain Collinson will have 680 miles
of longitude to traverse between Cape Barrow and Banks*
Land. An Eastern Expedition, if opposed by the ice (as
Sir James Ross has been), and unable to proceed in their
vessels farther than Leopold Harbour, will have to journey
on foot 330 miles to reach the longitude of Banks' Lana,
and if any accident occur to their vessels they will be in
as critical a position as those they go to seek.

" 3rd. Bankft' Land bears from Cape Bathurst N. 41'' 49^

200

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

i I

i i':

E. 302 miles, and there is reason to iDelieve that in the
summer season a portion of this distance may be traversed
in boats.

" 4th and 5th. Dr. Richardson confirms previous re-
ports of the ice being hght on the coast east of the Mac-
kenzie River to Cape Bathurst, and informs us that the
Esquimaux had seen no ice to seaward for two moons.

" 6th. Every mile traversed northward by a party from
Cape Bathurst would be over that unknown space in which
traces of Franklin may be expected.

** 7th. It is advisable that such a second party be des-
patched from Cape Bathurst, in order that the prosecution
of Dr. E-ae's examination of the supposed channel between
"Wollaston and Victoria Lands may in no way be inter-
fered with by his attention being called to the westward.

" 8th. The caches of provisions made at different points
of the Mackenzie and at Cape Bathurst, would enable a
party to push down to their starting point with great cele-
rity directly the River Mackenzie opens, which may be as
early as May.

"I would also remind your Lordships that the proposed
expedition would carry into execution a very important
clause in the instructions given to Sir James Ross ; viz.,
that of sending exploring parties from Banks' Land in a
south-westerly direction towards Cape Bathurst or Capo
Parry.

"In conclusion, I beg to offer my willing services
towards the execution of the proposed plan ; and seeking
it from no selfish motives, but thoroughly impressed with
its feasibihty, you may rest assm-ed, my lords, should I
have the honour of being sent upon this service, that I
shall not disappoint your expectations.

" I have, &c.,

(Signed) " Sherakd Osborn, Lieut., E.N."

Co^yofa letter from Colonel Saline, H.A., to Cci^tabi
Sir W. Sdicard Parry.

'* Castle-dowii Terrace, Hastings,
'* Ibth of January, 1850.

" There can be little doubt, I imagine, in t)i.- rniid of
any one who has read attentively Franklin's mblructions,
and (in reference to them) your description of the state of
the ice and of the navigable water in 1819 and 1820, in the
route which he was ordered to pursue ; still less, I tiiiuk,
can there be a doubt in the mind of any one who had the

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

roi

advantage of being with you in those years, that Franklin
(always supposing no previous disaster) must have made
his way to the south-west part of Melville Island either in
1S45 or 1S4G. It has been said that 1845 was an unfavour-
able season, and as the navigation of Davis' Strait and
Baliin's Bay was new to Franklin, we may regard it as
more probable that it may have taken him two seasons to
?.?cor.ipli8hwhat we accomplished in one. So far, I think,
guided by his instructions and by the experience gained in
1819 and 1820, we may reckon pretty confidently on the
tirst stage of his proceedings, and, cloubtiess, in bis pro-
gress he would have left memorials in the usual manner at
places where he may have landed, some of which would be
likely to fall in th^ way of a vessel following in his track.
From the west end of Melville Island our inferences as to
liis further proceedings must become more- conjectural,
being contingent on the state of the ice and the existence
of navigable water in the particular season. If he found
the ocean, as we did, covered to the west and south, as far
as tbe eye could reach from the summit of the highest
liills, with ice of a thickness unparalleled in any other part
of the Polar Sea, he would, after probably waiting through
one whole season in the hope of some favourable change,
iiave retraced his steps, in obedience to the second part of
his instructions, in order to seek an opening to the north
which might conduct to a more open sea. In this case
some memorial of the season passed by him at the south-
west end of Melville Island, and also of his purpose of
retracing his steps, would doubtless have been left by him;
i\ud should he subsequently have fomid an opening to the
ncTth, presenting a favourable appearance, there also,
should circumstances have permitted, would a memorial
have been left.

*' He may, however, have found a more favourable state
of things at the south-west end of Melville Island than we
did, and may have been led thereby to attempt to force a
passage for his ships in the direct line of Behring's Strait,
or perhaps, in the first instance, to the south of that direc-
tion, namely, to Banks' Land. In such case two contin-
p:encies present themselves ; first, that in the season of
navigation of 1847 he may have made so much progress,
ihat in 1848 he may have preferred the endeavoui* to push
through to Behring's Strait, or to some western part of
♦he continent, to an attempt to return by the way of Bar-
row Strait ; the mission of the Plover, the jLnicrprisey
and the Tavestifjator, together with Dr. Bae's expedition,
supply, I presume (for I am but partially acquainted with

■ ,r.-1^_V- -U^^.7Tt.«

202

rnoGREss OP arctic discovery.

their instructions), the most judicious mean:>i of affording
relief in this direction. There is, however, a second con-
tingency ; and it is the one which the impression left on
my mind by the nature and general aspect of the ice in tlie
twelve months which we ourselves passed at the south-
west end of Melville Island, compels me, in spite of my
wishes, to regard as the more probable, viz., that his
advance from Melville Island in the season of 1847 may
have been limited to a distance of 50, or perhaps 100 mile:-
at farthest, and that in 1848 he may have endeavoured to
retrace his steps, but only with partial success. It is, I
apprehend, quite a conceivable case, that under these cir-
cumstances, incapable of extricating the ships from the
ice, the crews may have been, at leng^i, obliged to quit
them, and attempt a retreat, not towards the continent,
because too distant, but to Melville Island, where certainly
food, and probably fuel (seals), might be obtained, and
where they would naturally suppose that vessels despatched
from England for their relief would, in the first instance,
seek them. It is quite conceivable also, I apprehend, that
the circumstances might be such that their retreat may
have been made without their boats, and probably in the
April or May of 1849.

" Where the Esquimaux have lived, there Englishmen
may live, and no valid argument against the attempt to
relieve can, I think, be founded on the improbability of
finding Englishmen ahve in 1850, who may have made a
retreat to Melville Island in the spring of 1849 ; nor would
the view of the case be altered in any material degree, if
we suppose their retreat to have been made in 1S4S or
1849 to Banks' Land, which may afford facilities of food
and fuel equal or superior to' Melville Island, and a furtlie]-
retreat in the following year to the latter island as the poinc
at which they would more probably look out for succour.

*' Without disparagement, therefore, to the attempts
made in other directions, I retain my original opinion,
wliich seems also to have been the opinion of the Board oi
Admiralty, by which Eoss's Instructions were drawn up,
that the most promising direction for research would be
taken by a vessel which should follow them to the south-
west point of Melville Island, be prepared to winter there,
and, if necessary, to send a party across the ice in April
or May to examine Banks' Land, a distance (there and
back) less than recently accomplished by Eoss in his land
journey.

" I learn from Eoss's despatches, that almost immediately
after he got out of Port Leopold (1849), he was entangled in

OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS.

20?,

apparently interminable iGelds and floes of ice, with wlncli,
in the course of the summer, he was drifted down throuiih
Barrow Strait and Baffin's Bay nearly to Davis' Strait.
It is reasonable to presume, therefore, that the locali "S
from whence this ice drifted are likely to be less encu*^-
bercd than usual by accumulated ice in 1850. It is, of
course, of the hif^hest importance to reach Barrow Strait
at the earliest possible period of the season ; and, connected
with this point, I learnt from Captain Bird, whom I had
the pleasure of seeing here a few days ago, a very remark-
able fact, that the ice which prevented their crossing
Baffin's Bay in 72° or 73° of latitude (as we did in 1819,
arriving in Barrow Strait a month earlier than we had
done the preceding year, when we went round by Mel-
ville Bay, and nearly a month earher than Eoss did
last year) was young ice, which had formed in the remark-
ably calm summer of last year, and which the absence ot
wind prevented their forcing a passage through, on the
one hand, whilst, on the other, the ice was not heavy
enough for ice anchors. It was, he said, not more than
two or two-and-a-half feet thick, and obviously of very
recent formation. There must, therefore, have been an
earlier period of the season when this part of the sea must
have been free from ice; and this comes in confirmation of
a circumstance of which I was informed by Mr. Petersen
(a Danish gentleman sent to England some months ago
by the Northern Society of Antiquaries of Copenhagen, to
make extracts from books and manuscripts in the British
Museum), that the Northmen, who had settlements some
centuries ago on the west coast of Greenland, were in the
habit of crossing Baffin's Bay in the latitude of Upernavic
in the spring of the year, for the purpose of fishing in
Barrow Strait, from whence they returned in August;
and that in the early months they generally foimd the
passage across free from ice.

" In the preceding remarks, I have left one contingency
unconsidered; it is that which would 'have followed in
pursuance of his instructions, if Franklin should have
found the aspect of the ice too unfavourable to the west
and south of Melville Island to attempt to force a passage
through it, and should have retraced nis steps in hopes of
fuding a more open sea to the northward, either in Wel-
lington Strait or elsewhere. It is quite conceivable that
here also the expedition may have encountered, at no very
great distance, insuperable difficulties to their advance,
and may have failed in accomphshing a return with their
ships. In this case, the retreat of the crews, supposing it

204

PROGRESS OP ATACTIC DISCOVERY.

■' i :

to have been made across land or ice, would most probably
be directed to some part of the coast on the route to Mel-
ville Island, on which route they would, without doubt,
expect that succour would be attempted."

Mr. Robert A. Goodsir, a brother of Mr. H. D. Goodsir,
the assistant-surgeon of Sir John Franklin's ship, the
JErehus, left Stromness, as surgeon of the Advice^ whaler,
Capt. Penny, on the 17th of March, 1849, in the hopes of
gaining some tidings of his brother ; but returned unsuc-
cessful after an eight months' voyaoje. He has, however,
published a very interesting little ' narrative of the icy
regions and of his Arctic voyage.

In a letter to Lady Frauldin, dated Edinburgh, 18th of
January, 1850, he says: — "I trust you are not allowini};
yourself to become over-anxious. I know that, although
there is much cause to be so, there is still not the slightest
reason that we should despair. It may be presumptuous
in me to say so, but I have never for a moment doubted
as to their ultimate safe return, having alw-iys had a sort
of presentiment that I would meet my bro^/her and his
companions somewhers in the regions in wiiieh their adven-
tures are taking place. This hope I have not yet given
up, and I trust that by next summer it may be fulfilled,
wlien an end will be put to the suspense which has lasted
60 long, and which must have tried you so much."

The Arctic regions, far from being so destitute of animal
life as might be supposed from 'be bleak and inhospitable
character of the climate, are proverbial for the boundless
profusion of various species of the animal kingdom, which
are to be met with in different localities during a gi*eat
part of the year.

The air is often darkened by innumerable flocks of
Arctic and blue gulls {Lestris Parasiticus, and Lams
^laucus), the ivory gull or snow bird {Zarws ebiirneus), the
kittiwake, the fulmar or petrel, snow geese, terns, coons,
dovekies, &e. The cetaceous animals comprise the great
Greenland whale {JSalcena mysticetus), the sea unicorn, or
narwhal {Monodon monoceros), the white whale or beluga
{Delphinus leucos), the morse or walrus {Trichecus ros-
inants), and the seal. There are also plenty of porpoise.-!
occasionally to be met with, and although these animals
may not be the best of food, yet they can be eaten. Of
the land animals I may instance the Polar bear, the musk-
ox, the reindeer, the Arctic fox, and wolves.

Parry obtained nearly 4000lbs. weight of animal food
during his winter residence at Melville Island; Eoss

ABUNDANCE OP ANIMAL FOOD MKT Wli«l. f|05

nearly tlie same quantity from birds alone. ttLou • ntcTiii:?
at Port Leopold.

In 1719. the erews of two Hudson's Bay vcssol?, tlie
Alhany and Disooverif, a ship and sloop, under the com-
mand of Mr. Barlow and jNIr. Knight, were east on shore
on JMarble Island, and it was subsequently ascertained
that some of the party supported life for nearly three
years. Mr. Heame learnt tlie particulars from some of
the Esquimaux in 1729. The snip it appeared went on
phoro in the fall of 1710 : the party, beiuj; then in number
gbout fifty, began to build their house for the winter. As
soon as the ice permitted in the following summer the Es-
(juimaux paid them another visit, and found the number
of sailors much reduced, and veiy unhealthy.

Sickness and famine occasioned such havoc among them
that by the setting in of the second winter, their number was
reduced to twenty. Some of the Esquimaux took up their
abode at this period on the opposite side of the harbour.
a:id supplied them with what provisions they could spare
in the shape of blubber, seal's flesh, and train oil.

The Esquimaux left for their wanderings in the spring,
Rud on revisiting the island in the summer of 1721, only
five of the crews were found alive, and these were so
ravenous for food, that they devoured the blubber and seal's
flesh raw as they purchased it of the natives, which proved
so injurious in their weak state that three of them died in
a few days. The two sui-vivors, though very weak,
managed to bury their comrades, and protracted their
existence for some days longer.

" They frequently," in the words of the narrative, " went
to the top of an adjacent rock, and earnestly looked to the
Boutli and east, as if in expectation of some vessels coming
to their relief. After continuing there a considerable
time, and nothing appearing in sight, they sat down close
together and wept bitterly. At length one of the two
died, and the other's strength was so far exhausted, that
he fell down and died also in attempting to dig a grave for
his companion. The skulls and other large bones of these
two men are now lying above ground close to the house."

Sir John Bichardson, speaking of the amount of food to
be obtained in the Polar region, says, " Deer migrate over
the ice in the spring from the main shore to Victoria and
WoUaston Laiids in large herds, and return in the autumn.
These lands are also the breeding places of vast flocks of
snow geese ; so that with ordinary skill in hunting, a large
supply of food might be procured on their shores, in the
months of June, July, and August. Seals are also nume-

200

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

roufl in those seas, and are easily shot, their curiosity ren-
dcrinsf tliem a ready prey to a boat party." In these ways
and by fisliinfr, tho stock oC provisions micfht be greatly
au^monted — and we have the recent example of Mr. Rae,
who passed s, severe winter on the very barren shores of
Kppulso Bay, with no other fuel than the withered tufts of
u herbaceous andromada, and maintained a numerous
party on tho spoils of tho chase alone for a whole year.
Such instances forbid us to lose hope. Should Sir John
Franklin's provisions become so far inadequate to a win-
ter's consumption, it is not likely that he would remain
lonjjfer by his ships, but rather that in one body, or in
several, the oflScers and crews, with boats cut down so as
to be lii^ht enough to drag over the ice, or built expressly
for that purpose, would endeavour to make their way east-
ward to Lancaster Sound, or southward to the main land,
according to the longitude in which the ships were ar-
rested.

We ought not to judge of the supplies of food that can
be procured in the Arctic regions by diligent hunting,
from the quantities that have been actually obtained on
the several expeditions that have returned, and conse-
quently of the means of preserving life there. When
tJiere was abimdance in the ships, the address and energy
of the hunting parties was not likely to be called forth, as
they would inevitably be when the existence of the crews
depended solely on their personal efforts, and formed
their chief or only object in their march towards quarters
where relief might be looked for. This remark has
reference to the supposition that on the failure of the
stock of provisions in the ships, the crews would in separate
parties under their officers seek for succour in several
directions.

With an empty stomach the power of resisting external
cold is greatly impaired; but when the process of digestion
is going on vigorously, even with comparatively scanty
clothing, the heat of the body is preserved. There is in
the winter time, in high latitudes, a craving for fat or
oleaginous food, and for such occasions the flesh of seals,
walrusses, or bears, forms a useful article of diet. Cap-
tain Cook says that the walrus is a sweet and wholesome
article of food. Whales and seals would also furnish light
and fuel. The necessity for increased food in very cold
weather, is not so great when the people do not work.

Mr. Gilpin, in his Narrative in the Nautical Magazine
for March, 1850, writes thus ; —

ABUNDAXCE OF ANIMAL FOOD MET WITn

207

** About tUo 'iOth of June a small water bird, called tho
dovL'ky, liad beeomo so numerous, and so many were
tiailv shot bv those who troubled themselves to eo after
them, that shoot inj:f parties from each suip, consist in;j; of
an nllifiT and marine, were established at Whaler Tomt,
where they renuiincd tho whole week, retuminff on board
on iSaturdiiy night. In a week or so after this tiie coon,
a much heavier bird, became more plentiful than the littlo
doveky. and from this time to the middle of Au^^ust, so
successnil ^md nntirinj; were our sportsmen, that the crow
received each a bird per man a day.

" The account kept on board the Investigator showed tho
number of birds killed to have amounted to about 4001),
and yielding near 2500lbs. of meat. But more than this
was obtained, as many were shot by individuals for amuse-
ment, and not always noted."

Mr. Goodsir, surgeon, when in the Advice whaler, on
her voyage up Lancaster Sound, in the summer of 1849,
speaking of landing on one of the WoUaston Islands, on
the west side of Navy Board Inlet, savs ho disturbed
about half a dozen pairs of the eider auck (Somatcria
mol'/\>\siiin(). Their eggs he found to be witkin a few
hours of maturity. There were besides numerous nests,
the occupants of which had probably winged their way
southwards. Two brent geese (Anser bemicla), and a
single pair of arctic terns (Sterna arctica), were most
vociferous and courageous in defence of their downy
(ilspring wherever he approached. These were the only
bircls he saw, with the exception of a solitary raven
(Corvus corsx) not very high overhead, whose sharp and
yet musically bell-like croak came startling upon the ear.

Mr. Snow, in his account of the voyage of the Prince
Albert, p. 162, says (speaking of Melville Bay, at the
northern Lead of Bafllin's Bay), " Innumerable quantities
of birds, especially the little auk [Alca alle) and the
doveky {Colymhus qrylle), were now seen (August 6th) in.
every direction. l*hey were to be observed in thousands,
on the A\ ing and in the water, and often on pieces of ice,
where they were clustered together so thick that scores
might have been shot at a time by two or three fowling
pieces."

In passing up Lancaster Sound a fortnight later several
shoals of eider ducks and large quantities of Other bitHJLs
were also seen. See ante, p. 49, et seq.

i>U I

208

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

I'f <:

y. .'

W I

A BALLAD OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.

"The ice was here, the ice was thoro.
The ice was all around."— Cw/eWd^'*'.

"Whither sail you, Sir John Franklin ?

Cried a whaler in Baffin's Bay ;
To know if between the land and the r.>Ie,

I may find a broad sea-way.

I charge you back, Sir John Franklin,

As you would live and thrive,
For between the land and the frozen PoTe

No man may sail alive.

But lightly laughed the stout Sir John.

And spoke unto his men ; —
Half England is wrong, if he is right ,

Bear off to westward then.

O, whitlier sail you, brave Englishman ?

Cried the little Esquimaux.
Between your land and the polar star

3Iy goodly vessels go.

Come down, if you would journey there,

The little Indian said;
And change your cloth for fur clothing.

Your vessel for a sled.

But lightly laughed the stout Sir John.

And the crew laughed ynth him too ;
A sailor to change from ship to sled,

I ween, were something new !

All through the long, long polar day,

The vessels westward sped ;
And wherever the sail of Sir John Avas b'iovo\

The ice gave way and fled.

Gave way with many a hollow groan.

And with many a surly roar;
But it murmured and threatened on evtry siili*.

And closed where he sailed before.

Ho ! see ye not, my merry men,

The broad and open sea ?
Bethink ye what the whaler said.
Bethink ye of the little Indian's sled t

The crew laughed out in glee.

Sir John, Sir John, 'tis bitter cold,

The scud drives on the breeze,
n»e ice comes looming from the North,

The very sunbeams freeze.

Bright Summer goes, dark Wiuter comes—

We 3ttnnot rule the year;
But long ere Summer's sun goes down,

On yonder sea we'll steer.

A BALLAD OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.

209

The dripping iccberjra Cilppeil ;un.l rose,

Ami tiouuderod down the pale ;
Tlie shi]i5i were staid, the yards wore manaeii.

ALd i'lirled the iiselosss saiL

Thj Suiamer's gone, the Winter's come.

We sail not on yonder sea ;
Why sail we not, Sir John Franklin ?

— i'l. silent rntin was he.

The Winter goes, the Summer comes,

We cannot rule the year ;
I ween, we cannot rule the ways.

Sir John, wherein we'd steer.

The ii".;cl ice came floating on,

An*l closed beneath tlie lee,
Till the thickening waters dashed no mo?€>
'Twa> ice around, behind, before —

7>Iy God ! there is no seti I

WHiat think you of the whaler now I

AVhat of the Esquimaux ?
A sled wcire better than a ship,

1 o cruise through ice and snow.

Down sank the baleful crimson sun ;

The northern-light came out.
And glared upon the ice-bound ships.

And shook its spears about.

The snow came down, storm breeding stCilU}

And on the decks was laid;
Till the weary sailor, sick at heart,

Sc<nk down beside his spade.

Sir John, the night ia black and long.

The hissing wind is bleak;
The hard, green ice is strong as death i —

I prithee, captain, speak.

The nigiit is neither bright nor short.

The singing breeze is cold,
'J he ice is not so strong as hope,

The heart of man is bold 1

What hope can scale this icy wall,

High over the main flag-staff?
Above the ridges the wolf and bear
Look down with a patient, settled stare.—-

Look do\vn on us and laugh.

The Summer went, the Winter came-~

We could not rule the year ;
But summer will melt the ice again*
And open a path to the sunny maiOf

Whereon our ehips shall steer.

ill

5iO PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEliV.

The Winter vreut, the Summer went,

'ilxe Winter came around ;
But the hard, green ice was strong as death,
And the voice of hope sank to a breath,

Yet caught at every sound.

Hark ! heard you not the sound of guns f

And there, and there again ?
•Tis some uneasy iceberg's roar,

As he turns in the frozen main.

Hurra ! hurra ! the Esquimaux

Across the ice-fields steal :
God give them grace for their charity I

Ye pray for the silly seal.

Sir John, where are the English fields.

And where the English trees, •
And wJiere are the little Englisli fiowers.

That open in the breeze ?

Be still, be still, my brave sailors '.

Y'ou shall see the fields again,
And smell the scent of the opening floweJS,

The grass, and the waving grain.

Oh ! when shall I see my orphan cliild ?

My Jrary waits for me ;
Oh I wlien shall I see my old mother,

And pray at her trembling knee ?

Be still, be still, my brave sailors I
Think not such thoughts again !

But a tear froze slowly on his cheek-
He thought of Lady Jane.

Ah ! bitter, bitter growB the cold,
The ice grows more and more ;

More settled stare the wolf and bear,
Mora patient than before.

Oh ! think you, good Sir John Franklin,

We'll ever see the land ?
*Twas cruel to send us here to starve.

Without a helping hand.

•Twas cruel. Sir John, to send us here,

jSo far from help or home ;
lo srarve and. freeze on this lonely sea;
I ween, the Lords of the Admiralty

Had rather send than come.

Oh I whether we starve to death alone^

Or sail to our own country,
We have done what man has never don*-"
The open ocean danced in the sun—

We passed the Korthem iSeai

VOYAGES OF VAPaOUS VESSELS.

211

THE GOVEENMENT AND PRIVATE SEARCHING EXrEDITIONS
AFTER SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.

I shall now proceed to furnisli an account of the prin-
cipal researches which have been made to ascertain the
fate of Franklin's vessels, merely premising that it will be
as brief as is consistent with intelligibleness.

Early in January, 1850, the J£nterprise, Captain Col-
linson, and the Investigator, Captain M'Clure, again
started to pursue the search. They passed through the
Strait of Magellan in April, and made for the Sand-
\\ ich Islands, which the I^nterprise left on the 30lh of
June. The Investigator arrived there three days after,
and pursued her course to Behring's Strait, reacliing
Cape Lisburne, within the Strait, after an imparalleled
passage of only twenty-six days. The Enterprise
pushed to seventy miles eastward of Point Barrow,
when she was stopped by the ice ; and the difficulty of
finding a harbour induced Caj^tain Collinson to return,
and winter at Hong Kong ; which he again left in
April, 1851, to prosecute the search. Meantime, the
Investigator, after having quitted Cape Lisburne, was
seen both by the Herald and Plover, for the last time,
on the 5th August, 1850, under press of canvas, with a
strong south-west wind. To a signal of recall, she is
reported to have replied — " Important duty ;" *' Own
responsibility." After a long protracted struggle vrith
the ice, the Investigator wintered, in 1850-51, in a
newly discovered strait, between Banks' Land and Prince
Albert's Land ; and, by a journey over the ice, Melville
Island was reached from the west, and a communication
opened with the ships sent from the east, as will be found
detailed in subsequent pages.

The efforts begun thus early in 1850 were vigorously
followed up in the spring of the same year ; several vessels
started to renew the search by way of Lancaster Sound.
Captain Austin, in the Resolute, and Captain Ommanney,
in the Assistance, attended by two screw steamers, the
Intrepid, Lieutenant Cator, and the Pioneer, Lieutenant
Osborne. The veteran, Sir John Koss, volunteered, aided
by the Hudson's Bay Company, to join the search in his
yacht, the Felix. Captain Penny, an experienced com-
mander in the whaling service, received orders from the
Admiralty to equip two vessels, the Lady Franklin, and

p 2

"^' "

iiillt

!M:

f i

01 •>

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVEIIY.

a tender, the Sophia^ in charge of Captain Stewart, xlnd
that no portion of the polar rerjions might be left un-
searched, Lady Franklin herself, by her private means,
pent a small schooner, the Prince Albert, m command of
Captain Forsyth, K.N., to examine Kegent Ir.Iet, for
Tvhich the other vessels had not provided ; so that, in the
f^v.mmer of 1850, not less than eight British vessels
vrere assembled within Lancaster Sound, besides the two
American schooners, the Advance, Lieutenant de Haven,
and the Rescue, Lieutenant Griffin ; which the munificent
liberality of Mr. Grinnel, of New Tork, had contributed
to this noble object ; upon which at least fourteen vessels
were thus employed in the Arctic seas.

In the autumn, Captain Forsyth having found Eegent
Inlet blocked up with ice, returned to England, bringing
tidings of some traces of Franklin's expedition having
been discovered at Point Eiley, at the mouth of "Wel-
lington Channel ; and also a rumour picked up by Sir John
Eoss's Esquimaux interpreter, respecting an attack of
treacherous natives on certain ships at one of the many
places called Ommanak, to which little or no credence
has been given.

The various searching vessels got into winter quarters
in the bays of Cornwallis Land, and Griffith Island, at
the southern extremity of "Wellington Channel, excepting
the American ones, which being caught in the pack ice,
were drifting helplessly during the whole winter ; and
carried a linear distance of more than 1000 miles, not
being liberated till they were south of Cape Walsingham,
in Baffin's Bay, in the month of June, 1851. Captain
Austin's ships were locked in the ice for nearly a year.

In the early spring, the travelling [parties from the ships
began their operations over the ice, and thoroughly
searched the shores north and south of Barrow's Strait,
to the amount, in the aggregate, of over 2000 miles.
Captain Ommanney visited Cape Walker, and the land
trending west, up to 100° 42' W., and was gone from his
vessel sixty days. During some of this time the thermo-
meter indicated a temperature of 71° below the freezing
point. Captain Ommanney gives his decided opinion, that
vessels would be unable to navigate along the coast he
explored, from the appearance of fixed ice and shoals, and
from the southerly trending of the land where it was sup-
posed to lie in a westerly direction. Another sledge party
travelled along the eastern shore of the land, explored on
the west side by Captain Ommanney's party. The mercury
in the thermometer carried by this party was irequently

CAP

:AIX AUSTIN 5 EXPEDITION.

213

frozen : and their chronometer was stopped from exces-
sive cold. In this travellinfr sails were oceasioiiallv
lioistod on the sled«:fcs, and large kites were also attaeiied.
AMien the wind was hii^h, these aids propelled the sledge
verjrapidly, and the whole of the partjthen rode; but when
the wind fell, the sledges, with their provisions and store;*,
had to be dratjged bj main force over the ice by the men
harnessed to them.

Another party examined Cornwallis Island, which lies
on the western side of Wellington Channel, Bathiirst
Island, Bj'am Martin Island and Straits, and the coa.-t
north-west of Batlmrst Island, to the 70° lat.

Lieutenant Osborn reached in the same direction to
100" 25'. Lieutenant M'Clintock visited AVinter Harbour,
in Melville Island, and rounded Cape Dundas into Liddon
Gulf, as far as Bushnan Cove, returning across the island
to AYinter Harbour, bringing back as a trophy j^art of the
broken cart-wheel left by Sir E. Parry, in 1820. This
extraordinary journey, wliich occupied eighty diiys, and
involved a distance of 760 miles, gave no traces of the
missing navigators, but produced unmistakable evidence
of the great abundance of animal life on the Parry Islands,
for the travellers fell in with a great number of hares,
deer, and musk oxen, bears and foxes, as well as birds in
great abundance. They travelled when the cold was so
intense that bottles of water, carried bv the men in their
breasts, froze after an hour or so j salt pork broke like suet,
and rum thickened.

Other parties examined the islands lying east of Mel-
ville Island, with the like ill success.

Sledge parties from Captain Penny's vessels proceeded
up We^llini^ton Channel, to examine both its sides. On
the 30th May, Captain Stewart, commanding one of these
parties, arrived at a northern dividing channel, which
leads from Wellington into Queen Victoria's Channel.
Here, to his great astonishment, he found an open sea :
but unfortunately, the want of a boat stopped his further
progress. Ducks and sea-fowl, of various kinds, were
swimming on the water, and snipe were Hying about tlie
beach. The entrance to Wellington Strait was barred
against the entrance of vessels by a fu'm and impassable
barrier of ice, the evident accumulation of several seasons.
Captain Penny's party discovered and explored Queen's
Channel, which is, without doubt, a prolongation ot Wel-
lington Strait into the great Polar Basin. In this new
channel Penny met with wood and other foreign sub-
stances adrift, and polar bears, deer, walruses, and whales

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVEr.Y.

;t *

m great numbers. It is liiglily probable that Franklia
Las passed north through this passage.

Some jealousies and petty difl'erences having taken
place between the naval commander of the expedition.
Captain Austin, and the civilian, Mr. Penny, the latter
was induced to return home in the autumn of 1851. Sir
John Koss followed shortly after; and Captain Austin
and his ships arrived on the 7th October, after an absence
from England of about eighteen months.

The American expedition cons: >ted of two brigantines,
the Advance, of 144 tons, and the Rescue, of 91 tons.
They left New York on the 25th May, 1850. The un-
fortunate result of their ice-drift I have already alluded
to. With the exceptions of Captain Back and Sir James
Eoss, there is no other like record of a Polar drift, and
this is without parallel as to distance and exposure.

On Sept. 13, 1851, Grilfith's Island, the greatest westing,
was observed by the Advance and the Rescue, when they
attempted to return, but were frozen in opposite Welling-
ton Channel. Then commenced the northern drift, and
the vessels were carried to 75° 30' — the greatest northing
ever yet attained in that meridian of latitude. After-
wards, about the latter end of November, they re-entered
Lancaster Sound, under the influence of the drift.

The ice then closed upon them, and they were amid all
the horrors of a Polar winter, but it was subject to re-
peated disruptions effected by wind, storm, or drift.
During the months of November, December, January, and
February, the darkness was perpetual (a Polar night) — and
the discomfort of such a home, thus ice-bound, can be
better imagined than described.

The men were then prepared with knapsacks for any
immediate emergency, no one knowing when the fearful
pressure of the ice would crush the little barks. Previous
to this, however, and preparatory for it, the Rescue was
deserted, about November 6, to save fuel, «&c., the ther-
mometer being 40° below zero.

Meantime constant exposure to wet and cold here in-
troduced scurvy, and in a short time, notwithstanding the
usual preventives, the disease assumed in some cases an
alarming form. Lieut, de Haven became severely afflicted,
but by pouring hot water on dried apples, with some sea-
soning of lemon juice, a preparation for a drink was
made, which soon restored the health of the officers and
crew.

Lieut, de Haven's was the most severe attack, and
afforded a singular ill;^ titration of one of the peculiar fea-

THE AME7JCAN- EXPEDITIOX.

21.5

tures of the disease. A small wound on his finf^er, made
wlieu a school-boy, and many years ago healed and for-
i^otten, was reopened by the disease.

In tlie sprinp^ (^ay) the .Rescue vras recovered with the
loss of bowsprit and cutwater. Both vessels had with-
stood the crushing of the ice wonderfully well. Their
small size enabled them to rise when the crushing began,
and their prodigious strength saved them from being de-
stroyed by the pressure.

On the 13th of January, 1851, they entered Baffin's
Bay (tlie Rescue then invisible), and driifted out of sight of
land, being about 90 miles off.

June 10. — They emerged from the ice, after over nine
months drifting in it, (about 300 days,) during all which
time they had been imprisoned, without the power to get
out. During this time they calculated they had drifted
full 1060 miles.

Lieut, de Haven determined to proceed north after he
had emerged from the ice, in June, as before stated ; but
in his effort to pass through the Melville Bay barrier he
was, July 25, again beset with ice, and frozen up.

The icebergs were more numerous than ever known
before at that time, and he became enveloped in them.
He was in the midst of a grand, magnificent circus of ice-
bergs, the amphitheatre of which was 200 feet high.

From this imprisonment he escaped August 19, when
the north winds blew him out. Then, after refreshing at
the Greenland ports, he set sail for the United States.

Mr. Kane, the surgeon to this expedition, and one of
the most intelligent of the various recent Arctic explorers,
was very sanguine that Franklin might yet be found.

'• I should say (he observes, m a letter to Mr. Grinnell)
that he is now to be sought for north and west of Com-
wallis Island. As to the chance of the destruction of the
party by the casualties of ice, the return of our own party,
after something more than the usual share of them, is the
only fact that I can add to what we knew when we set out.
The snow hut, the fire and Ught from the moss lamp fed
with blubber, the seal, the narwhal, the white whale,
and occasionally abundant stores of migratory birds, would
sustain vigorous life. The scurvy, the worst visitation of
explorers, deprived of permanent quarters, is more rare
in the depths of a Polar winter than in the milder weather
of the moist summer, and our two little vessels encoun-
tered both seasons without losing a man."

During the months of June, July, August, and Sep-
tember, 1852, Dr. John Kae was engaged, imder orders

5)10

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

■t t

i ;!:

from tbo Hudson's Bay Company, in examining the coasts
of Victoria and Wollaston Islands and Dease and Simp-
son's Straits. During the three months ho was absent, he
supported his party of seventeen men almost entirely on the
animal food they obtained, which was abundant ; the dry
meat they had with them being principally given to their
dogs. 'Iney lell in with bears, deer in high condition,
large flocks of geese, golden plovers, and quantities oi'
salmon.

Twenty-one deer were shot on the coast, and many more
could have been killed, if necessary.

A distance of nearly 1100 miles was surveyed.

In October, 1852, the Prince Albert arrived at Aber-
deen from a voyage of seventeen months duration in the
Arctic regions. This little vessel had been fitted out a second
time, for that quarter, principally at the expense of Lady
Pranklin; and, although some geographical discoveries
were made, nothing was accomplished towards the main
objects of the voyage. A sledge party from this vessel
traversed a distance ofnearly 1200 miles, during which they
visited Cape "Walker, and the north coast of Somerset
Land^

By the accounts received from Behring's Strait, to
August, 1852, Commander Maguire had taken the Pfover
up safely into a harbour at Cape Barrow, which he
named Moore Harbour; being situate further north, it
was better adapted for watching and communicating with
the exploring vessels, or parties from them. After a
minute examination of about 1000 lbs. of the preserved
meats on board this vessel, supplied by Mr. Golduer, it
was found in a pulpy, decayed, and putrid state, and to-
tally unfit for men's food, and 10,570 lbs. were, therefore,
thrown overboard into the sea, as a nuisance, in July
last.

It is satisfactory, however, to find animal life equally
abundant in this sea as in other parts of the Arctic regions;
and the commander states, that after entering the ice, on
their approach to Point Barrow, they found the sea lite-
rally covered with birds, most of them excellent eating, and
the crews were nearly supplied with them from two gun? in
each boat ; about 100 loons being obtained daily. When
skinned they eat very well, and one for each man made a
good mess for the day. Further to the southward the
walrus was numerous, and, to the northward, seals were
found in great abundance. Driftwood was met with,
although not so plentiful as at Port Clarence and some
other places.

VOYAGE OF THE ISABEL.

217

as the coasts

Mooro Harbour is about 500 miles in advance of tli?
Plovers old winter quarters ; Point Barrow lies about
158^ "\Y. lon^. the westernmost extremity of Melville
Island ; the farthest point yet reached by the expeditions
working through Lancaster Sound, is in about 115^ loD^^
W. ; consequently there yet lies between the adranced
posts of expeditions working west, and those working east,
about 40 degrees of longitude unexplored. Banks' Land
remains unexplored between the 110th and 120th degrees
longitude ; but all the coasts in the vicinity of the common
course of Arctic navigators, that is, through Baffin's Bay,
Lancaster Sound, Barrow's Strait, thence westerly as far
as Melville Island, the shores of Boothia Gulf and Eegent
lulet. Peel Sound, and the coasts of Prince of Wales'
Laiil, llussell Island, of which Cape Walker forms th.^
n ortii eastern promontory, and all the Arctic coasts of
the continent of !North America, have been thoroughly
searched.

The Isabel screw schooner of 170 tons and 30-horsc

Eower, fitted and provisioned for a five years' cruise,
aving in June, 1852, through the failure of Captain
Beatson's intended expedition to Behring's Strait, ocen
thrown upon the hands of Lady Franklin, that lady
ofiered the vessel to Commander Ingletield, E.N., for
service, in any route he might consider most judicious.
Captain Inglefield left England in July, to explore the
Lead of Baffin's Bay, and examine its large sounds and
straits, and accomplished in four months more than any
other arctic navigator had done. By this voyage Whalo
Sound was pretty clearly ascertained to be an entrance
into the Polar Sea ; and the commander of the Isabel
believes he had actually entered the Great Basin, and
was checked in his course towards Behring's Strait bv
continued heavy gales, which drove him back into AVhale
Sound. This sound lies in the north-east part of Baffin's
Bay. The Isabel then penetrated Jones' Sound on the west
side of Baffin's Bay as far west as the 84th degree of longi-
tude ; but meeting with no traces of Franklin, the vessel
was then steered to communicate with Sir E. Belcher's
squadron at Beechey Island, and returned home;

On the 25th of August, after having been blown back
three times. Captain Inglefield entered Whale Sound.
Twenty-five miles inside this opening in the coast he
found a settlement of natives, who were strong, healtliy,
and vigorous, having an ample store of blubber and flesh
laid by in their winter underground hovels. They had

numerous dogs and sledges.

Ascending an eminence of

21S

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

1^'

III

V !

V' 1

nearly 1,000 feet, ho found that tho north side of tlio
Sound was composed of a group of islands, some of con-
siderable dimensions. Two small openinjifs, so marked at
least on the charts, were discovered to be extensive inlet3
stretching away to the northward and north eastward.
Far as tho eye could reach an unbroken horizon met the
gaze, and no sigjn of ice or obstruction into an open strait
or inland sea could be detected. These two inlets were
named after Sir Roderick Murchison and Sir Francis
Beaufort. Taking advantage of the open state of the ice,
Captain Inglefield dashed boldly on to the northward,
in the direction of Smith's Sound,, making Cape Alexander
on the 2Gth.

"We had no sooner," says the commander, "fairly
opened tho Soimd, than I involuntarily exclaimed, this
must lead into the great Polynia of the Jlussians ; and as
the eye strained forward into the clear expanse of appa-
rently open water, which now occupied from seven to eight
points of the compass due north of our position, I could
not but admit to my own mind that a great sea was
beyond.

" This strait marked so narrow on our charts, by mea-
surement! found to be about thirty-six miles across,and now
I pushed eagerly on to a further view of this noble inlet."'

The natural snow- clad aspect of the bleak cliflfs that
surround the head of the bay, seemed changed by the
presence of a more genial chme, the side of Cape Alex-
ander itself being streaked with bright green grasses and
moss, and the neighbouring Iiills to the northward were
black instead of snow-capped, evidently of secondary {iy-
mation. The discoveries made by Captain Inglefield con-
prise 600 miles of new coLst line. He also remained
within the arctic circle two months later than the Govern-
ment expedition under Captain Austin the previous jenv,
having reached it three months later; and yet accom-
plished (independent of sailing) 1,474 miles under steam,
bringing home with him still sixty-six tons of fuel.

Sir Francis Beaufort, the hydrographer to the Ad-
miralty, in his report, speaking of these important surveys
performed, says of Smith's Sound, "This may well be
called a valuable discovery, for Baffin merely saw a break
in the coast, and Ross ana Parry could only just perceive
the looming of the mountains at the distance of ninety
miles.

"Murchison Strait was likewise another important
geographical discovery, for Whale Sound, with which it is
connected, was supposed to be only a deep fiord, whereas

DEDUCTIONS FROM THIS VOYAGE.

210

it now appears t j be a wide passage, and to be the limits
of tlic coutiuont of Greenland.

•' In the third place, the ice bavins: prevented Captain
Aiistin from enterinjj Jones' Sound, but which seemed to
him to be only a deep bay, now turns out to be another
channel to the northward, through the great cluster of
Parry Islands."

The results of this interesting voyage have furnished
many facts possessing an important bearing on the present
and future searching expeditions ; and conlirm the follow-
ing opinions thrown out by Mr. Petermanu.

1. That Sir John Franklin has not been wrecked, and
has not perished in the northern part of Baffin's Bay, and
along its western shore.

2. That the Polar Seas even in very high latitudes, are
perfectly navigable during a certain period of the year.

3. That this period of navigableness in the comparatively
high latitudes is not in the middle of summer, (when the
seas through which access is to be had are usually encum-
bered with ice,) but at the end of the summer season,
or at its beginning, before the great ice masses are
dislodged from the coast and drifted southward.

4. That certain animals, fit for food, arc more or less
abundant even in the highest latitudes.

Bearing the preceding points in mind, and assuming
that Sir J. Franklin has gone up Wellington Channel, and
there found before him a sea of considerable extent, and
navigable like that to the north of Baffin's Bav. the Ques-
tion arises, how is it possible that nine years have now
passed without Sir John Franklin's having been able
to pass out of that sea into the sea situated to the
north of Belu'iug's Strait, in the direction of either the
American or the Siberian shores ? The most feasible
solution of this cxuestion that suggests itself to me, is
that a tract of land may have hitherto prevented his
progress in that region. There are reasons for con-
jecturing that such a tract of land may extend f om the
laud seen bv Captain Kellett, to the north of Behring's
Straits, as mr as the eastern coasts of Greenland, with-
out a single opening. At all events it admits of scarcely
any doubt that the sea to the north of Ballin's Bay can
have no connexion with the Polar Basin, nor even with
the sea beyond.

AU this has been done, an immense line of coast inves-
tigated, and yet the question is not set at rest. In

is;

Hi: I

220

PIIOOUESS OF AllCTIC DISCOVERY.

October, 1851, the olRccra and crew of Sir EtUvard Bel-
flier's aquiulron arrived home, with Cuptaiu M'Clure tiud
the erow of t!ie Ltrestiqator. The As'sisfaiirc and Rc.so/nfr,
with their tenders, Pioneer and Intrepid and the in rest!-
qator, were so firmly blocked up in the ice, that it w;i4
found impossible to liberate them ; and after mukin.; rul
secnrc, vhey were abandoned by Sir Edwai-d BeleUey'i
orders, an(l their olUcers and crews arrived iiome iu tin'
PJuenuv, North Star, and Tafhot store ships, which had
been sent to their relief. Durint:^ the whole of her p ••
rilous voyage of nearly four years, the Investifjator loil
but one olticer and five men out of a crew of sixty-tive.

HOPES AND FEARS, AND COURSE OF OrErATIONS FOILOWE'-t
lOR TKUMINAIING THE SEARCH,

Iu an ably written and interesting letter from La ly
Franklin to the President of the United States, expressing;
her sincere and profound gratitude for the service Aviiieii
has already been rendered to the Arctic cause by the
United States Government, she says, "The result ot' the
late operations of the allied squadrons, thouGfh fallint^ shor!
of our hopes and expectations, are neither insignificant nor
devoid of {;reat encouragement fur the future. Tiiey prove,
in the first place, that the missing ships escaped all the
catastrophes which the faint-hearted and despairing liad
predicted of them in their outward V05'age, and arrived i.i
safety at the first winter quarters, where were the graAt'>
of tiiose men belonging to the discovery ships, and buried,
apparently with great care and dtoorum ; attesting that
the ships' companies were not only in life, but, as other
iinmistakeable signs combine to prove, in circumstances ot
security, comfort, and plenty, and full of vigour. Agaiu.
tlie future field of search has been narrowed, and the ex-
ploration of Captain Austin's ollicers over the ice, carricil
on w ith a spirit and perseverance which makes me proud
that they arc my countrymen, having shown that our ship?
could not have pursued a south-west course ; while the
discoveries of Captain Penny, conducted with equal energy
and spirit, in a north-west direction, leave no room to
doubt that the clear water he there came upon was the first
opened by my husband's ships, and that they pursued their
way towards Behring's Strait in a high northern latitude.
Thus our future efibrts have a more confined and definite
aim. It may be afiirmed that the lost navigators are now

LADY FRANKLINS ENDUUINO FAITH.

221

i)t«, whieli had

to be looked for with every liope of success, iti the spaeo
lyiiijj l)et\veen 100"' and IH^P of west longitude and any
liarallcl of latitude north of 75^. It would appear, thcreforo,
tliat to secure the completeness of the searcu, it sliould bo
commenced siniultaneouslv at both ends, and that uo single
txpcditiou i;oinj; up Wellington Channel should bo con-
pidorod to have exhausted its work till it eniert^ed in
I3cliring's Strait, or, in other words, accomplished a north-
west passage ; nor any expedition starting from Behrinij's
Strait deem its obiect attained till it comes out in "Wel-
lington Channel or Baffin's 13ay ; or, in other words, per-
formed the north-west passage. We derive infinite com-
fort from the proofs which the late expeditions have given
us, tbat considerable resources exist in those northern
portions of the Arctic regions which have now been ap-
proached, for the support of human life, and very satisfac-
tory, also, is the additional experience gained in conlirma-
lion of all former evidence, that the Arctic climate is in
itself favourable to health, and that the loss of life attend-
ing the expeditions is, in spite of the risks and accidents
incidental to them, far less than the average in any other
quarter of tho globe. "With these facts before us, and with
no proof or even sign of any sudden calamity having over-
taken them and cut short their progress, it seems not pre-
sumptuous, but within the bounds of a reasonable and
modest calculation of probabilities, to conclude the lost
navigators have only not been found because they were
already beyond the reach of the eflTorts which have been
made to come upon their track, limited as their efforts have
hitherto been to the duration of a single season. The
discovery ships were years ahead of all their pursuers,
and, whde the latter had advanced hardly beyond the
starting post, they were struggling towards the goal. If
miafortune has indeed overwhelmed them, — and how shall
I dare refuse to believe in such a possibility P — it has been
in the strenuous ardent pursuit of their duty, and not in
the early and timid abandonment of it, as they would
seem to imply who gratuitously suppose that our brave
countrymen turned back at the end of a single winter, and
perished on their way home. It was the known determi-
nation of my husband, and is recorded by him in his last
letter from the borders of the ice, to renew his attempts
year after year, and if foiled in one direction to try an-
other. * * * I cannot but regard the rescue of my
husband and his companions, and the accomplishment of
the new passage, as nearly identical objects. Had the
researches which have hitherto been made in vain been

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

is i

subjected to no other restrictions than tlie afcomplisli-
nient of the one object or the other, so lons^ as the lives of
those employed were not necessarily sacriiiced, we miclit
not perhaps have had to mourn over a series of biticn-
disappointments. It is only by having the same objects
in view as the original expedition, and pursuing it with tlio
same steadfast perseverance, that we can hope to solve the
mystery."

Another searching expedition, consisting of the Aff-
vance, fitted out again by Mr. Grinnell, left the Ame-
rican shores in April, 1853. The former surgeon, Mr.
Kane, promoted to Lieutenant, was in charge of it.
A more judicious selection could not have been made. —
Though before serving in but a subordinate capacity.
he signally distinguished himself for his inteliigouce
and energy. In one essential qualification he stood
especially pre-eminent ; that qualification was faith. He
firmly believed that Sir John was yet a living man, and
that he could be rescued from his place of confinement l)y
human means. His heart was thoroughly in the enterprise,
and his zeal, it was certain, would not fail so long as a
vestige of hope remained.

On July 23rd, 1853, he was at Uppernavik, in Greci^-
land, and was pushing on in his brig for some safe harbour
on the eastern side of Smith's Sound, then he woukl leave
his ship, and proceed with an exploring party of twenty
or thirty men towards the north, with sledges, dogs, and
gutta-percha boats. This locality is 230 miles to the
north of Beechy Island, the starting point of Sir Edward
Belcher, and seventy miles north of tlie utmost limits
seen or recorded in Wellington Channel. At a meeting
of the St. John's Lodge of Newfoundland, in June of that
year, after the receipt of a cordial address and a masonic
nag. Dr. Kane thus explained to his brother masons his
hope and sentiments in regard to the further search for
our long absent brother of the mystic tie. Sir John
Franklin : —

" Allow me to explain to you the rationale of the present
undertaking, and to state the grounds on which our hopes
of its success are based, as this may be desirable to remove
misapprehensions which too widely and too generally pre-
vail upon this subject. To those whose knowledge is
obtained and whose judgment is formed at the fireside,
this may indeed appear to be a wild and hopeless expedi-
tion ; but those whose practical knowledge is derived from
exploration, scientific research, and hard experience in

PROBABILITIES OF FRANKLIN S SAFETY.

223

those regions towards which our course is now directed,
have fonmed a far different opinion, and their acquisitiou
of knowledge constitutes them the best judges ; for in
their belief the probability amounts to all but certainty,
that either Sir John Franklin, or at least the greater part
of his brave band, and most likely all of them, are still
alive, and may yet be restored to their families, their
friends, and to the world.

" Against this probability are only to be placed the muta-
tions and c]iances to which, under ordinary circumstances,
human life ii? everywhere liable ; for it is almost certain
that Sir John and his noble crew could not have been ex-
posed to danger arising Irom any catastrophe : icebergs in
the region to which lie has been traced are things unknown,
nor yet are there seas there, in a nautical sense, by which
their lives would be imperilled : — the only accident that
could befal them would be from the sudden closing in of
the ice, characterised by the term of * nipping,' but even
from that there arc almost always time and means to aflbrd
escape ; and, consequently, a carefully -formed opinion,
based on reliable data, is now entertained among scientific
and experienced men, such as Sir Koderick Murchison, and
Commander Penny of your own nation, and of numbers
among us, whose practical knowledge of those regions adds
weight to their authority, — that this little band of martyrs
to science, or at any rate, the greatest part of them, arc still
alive, and if the search be faithfully persevered in, that
they will yei be found."

Lieut. iCane's expedition, although energetically con-
ducted, added nothing to our stock of knowledge re-
specting the missing expedition, because it was directed
in a wrong channel. It was doubted whether Sir John
Franklin proceeded in the spring of 1857 westward, or
northward up Wellington Channel. His instructions ex-
pressly enjoined the former course, but an extensive
search by means of sledges, in that direction, extending
to 103'' 25' along the south shore, and to 114° 20' along
the north shore, afforded no indication that such was tho
course actually pursued. It was the opinion entertained
generally by the officers >..f both the English and American
expeditions, that Sir John prosecuted his course by the
open sea north-west of the Wellington and Victoria Chan-
nels, and was shut up in the almost boundless region of
water, ice, and land that extends between Victoria Chan-
nel and the high and extensive lands north of West
Georgia, considered by some to be a continuation of the

-T-

iM «

i:^:

224:

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

range of mountains seen off Cape Jakan on the coast of
Asia. That there is a great polar basin with a higgler
temperature than that of the Arctic zone, abounding v.itk
animal life, and ample means for human subsistence, was
plainly set forth by Captain Penny, in 1850, as his decided
conviction. This opinion was substantiated by Captain
Inglefield, when he returned from a short steamer cruise of
four months up Baffin Bay, in 1852, and presented a report
of his observations to the Koyal Geographical Society.
That gallant navigator attained the latitude of 78^ 35',
about 120 miles farther north than the highest point ever
before reached. He passed through a channel some thirty,
five miles in width, and found an immense extent of open
water before him ; but was prevented from proceeding
forward by a tremendous gale which his little steamer was
poorly adapted to encounter. It is Captain Inglefield's
opinion that BafiSn Bay is misnamed, and is in fact an
arm of communication between the Atlantic and the Arctic
Oceans.

On the 31st of May, 1845, we have a pleasant account
of the missing expedition and its commander, in a letter
from Caj)tain Fitzjames to Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty.

He writes thus :—

" Sir John Franklin is delightful, active, energetic,
and evidently even now persevering. "What he has
been we all know. I think it will turn out that he
is nowise altered. He is full of conversation and inter-
esting anecdotes of his former voyages. I would not
lose him for the command of the expedition, for I have a
real regard — I may say, affection — for him, and believe
this is felt by all of us. I have not seen much of Crozier
yet, but what I have seen I like, and I think he is just
made for a second to Sir John Franklin. In our mess
we are all very happy ; we have a most agreeable set of
men, and I could suggest no change, except that I wish
you were with us."

Again, on the 1st of July : — " The only difficulty I had
was to get Sir John to shorten sail when it was wanted.
He is full of life and energy, with good judgment and a
capital memory, — one of the best I know. His conversa-
tion is delightful, and most instructive ; and of all men he
is the most fitted for the command of an enterprise re-
quiring sound sense and great perseverance. I have
learnt much from him, and consider myself most fortunate
in beinir with such a man ; and he is full of benevolence
and kindness withal."

The following extract of a letter from Lieutenant Fair-

SIR JOHN franklin's EXPEDITION.

OO-t

holme, of the JErebus, will also serve to show the pleasant
anticipations of success which prevailed throughout the
party; and the happy terms on which they were with
each other: —

•' On board, we are as comfortable as it is possible to be.
I need hardly tell you how much we are all delighted with
our captain. He has, I am sure, won not only the respect
but the love of every person on board, by his amiable
manner and kindness to all ; and his influence is always
employed for some good purpose, both among the officers
ana men. He has been most successful in his selec-
tion of officers, and a more agreeable set could hardly be
found.

" Sir John is in much better health than when we left
England, and really looks ten years younger. He takes an
active part in everything that goes on; and his long
experience in such services as this makes him a most
valuable adviser. July 10th. — The transport is just re-
ported clear ; so I hope that we may be able to swing th«
ships to-morrow, and get away on Saturday. We are
very mu^h '^rowded ; in fact, not an inch of stowage has
been lost, it ^ the decks are still covered with casks, &c.
Our suppi V oals has encroached seriously on the ship's
stowage ; k/uu as we consume both this and provisions as
we go, the evil will be continually lessening.'*

It may be interesting to know the official account of
the fresh provisions supplied by the Admiralty to these
ships; it was as follows t—freserved meat, in tins,
32,018lb8. ; soup, pints, 17,416; gravy, pints, 2176;
vegetables, 80761bs. ; potatoes, 26321bs. This is besides
the usual naval rations of salt provisions for three years.

The annexed account of their additional resources is so
important, as being the latest intelligence, that I cannot
abridge it :—

" llobert Martin, now master and commander of the
whale ship Intrepid, of Peterhead, solemnly and sincerely
declares, that on the 22nd day of July, 1845, when in
command of the whale ship Enterprise, of Peterhead, in
lat. 75° 10' long. 66° W., calm weather, and towing, the
Erebus and Tet^ror were in company. These ships were
alongside the Enterprise for about fifteen minutes. The
declarant conversed with Sir John Franklin and Mr. Reid,
bis ice master. The conversation lasted all the time the
ships were close. That Sir John, in answer to a question by
the declarant, if he had a good supply of provisions, and
how long he expected them to last, stated that he had pro-
visions for five years, and if it were necessary he could

iU^i

mill

',1'

111'

> ■

l'2(j

rnOGRESS OF AIICTIC DISCOVERY.

* make them spin out seren years ;* and he said further,
that he would lose no opportunity of killing birds, and
whatever else was useful that came in the way, to keep
up their stock, and that he had plenty of powder and shot
for the purpose. That Sir John also stated that he had
already got several casks of birds salted, and had then t^(^
shooting parties out— one from each ship. The birds were
very numerous; many would fall at a sinsfle shot; aiul
the declarant has himself killed forty at a shot with whi'f
peas. That the birds are very agreeable food, are in tasro
and size somewhat like young pigeons, and are called hy
the sailors ' rochcs.*

" That on the 26th or 28th of the said month of July two
parties of Sir John's officers, who had been out shootino.
dined with the declarant, on board the Enterprise. There
was a boat with six from each ship. Their conversation
was to the same effect as Sii* John's. They spoke of
expecting to be absent four, or five, or perhaps six years.
These officers also said that the ships would winter where
thev could find a convenient place, and in spring push on
as lar a? possible, and so on year after year, as the deter-
mination was to push on as far as practicable.

" That on the following day an invitation was brought
to the declarant, verbally, to dine with Sir John, but the
wind shifted, and the Enterprise having cut through the
ice about a mile and a half, the declarant was obliged to
decline the invitation. That he saw the Erebtis and Terror
for two days longer ; they were still lying at an iceberg,
and the Enterprise was moving slowly down the country.
That so numerous were the birds mentioned, and so favour-
able was the weather for shooting them, that a very large
number must have been secured during the time the
declarant was in sight of the two ships. That from the
state of the wind and weather for a period of ten days,
during part of which declarant was not in sight of the two
ships, the best opportunity was afforded for securing the
birds. That the birds described are not to be foimd at
all places on the fishing ground during the whaling season,
but are met with in vast numbers every season on certain
feeding banks and places for breeding ; and it was consi-
dered at the time by the declarant a most fortunate cir-
cumstance that the Erebus and Terror had fallen in with
so many birds, and that the state of the weather was so
favourable for securing large numbers of them. The
declarant has himself hiwi a supply of the same description
of birds, which kept fresh ana good during three mouths,

THE LATEST ACCOUNTS.

227

aid further,
5 birds, and
ray, to keep
der and shot
that he had
aadthent^o
e birds were
e shot ; ar.l
t with whi'
1, are intasio
ire called ly

tiof Julyt^o
)ut shootin^i,
?me. There

conversation
ley spoke of
ips six years,
winter where
)ring push on

as the deter-

L was brought
John, but the
t through the
as obliged to
us and Tensor
it an iceberg,
I the country,
ind so favour-
t a very large
;he time the
'hat from the
of ten days,
•ht of the two
securing the
be found at
aling season,
ion on certain
it was consi-
'ortunate cir-
ikllen in with
ather was so
them. The
le description
-hree mouths^

at Davis's Straits, and the last were as good as the first
of them."

In a letter also published in the Times newspaper,
from Mr. Sutherland, surgeon of the Sophia, the
tender to the Lady Franklin, Captain Penny, he states,
*' had Sir John Franklin any wish to increase his stock of
provisions by the use of the birds called *roches,* he
could obtain them in thousands where the Enterprise of
Peterhead parted with him ; and as to stowage, the daily
allowance of 138 men would soon make room for a few*
casks of salted birds. Moreover, he would also learn
that sea-fowl will keep in the Arctic regions during the
three short months of summer, if they be exposed to the
cold and a free current of air. And there is no doubt his
ingenuity would suggest to him what the Esquimaux have
practised for thousands of years — to wit, preserving
masses of animal substances, such as whale's flesh by
means of ice, during the summer months, when it may
be easily obtained, for their use during winter."

There was more danger to be apprehended from
the well-known energy and zeal of the explorers than
from any other cause. Franklin left our shores feeling
that the eyes of the civilized world were on him, and that
it was hoped and expected he would accomplish what our
most learned hydrographers regard as feasible ; although
failure has characterized so many attempts to pass from
the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, round the north coast
of America. Franklin was well aware that if he succeeded
his fame would be heralded abroad ; and he would not
abandon his enterprise as long as strength remained.

*' Fame is the spur that the clear spirit doth raise.
To scorn delights and live laborious days."

He would not give up the struggle with mighty icebergs and
thick-ribbed ice as long as the smallest chance of obtaining
the much-desired prize remained. It is recorded that when
attempts were made to dissuade Sir Martin Frobisher
from engaging in the discovery of a north-west passage,
he answered, " It is the only thing in the world that is
left yet undone, whereby a notable mind might be made
famous and fortunate."

Sir John Franklin, in the narrative of his first Arctic
journey, writing then of Sir Edward Parry, uses obser-
vations which may be applied with equal force, and but
shght alteration, to his own case : —

** His task," he observes, '* is doubtless an arduous one»

^^.. -TT"'

I tf

'M:

5V . * ■

J'l

228

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

[■•

and if ultimately successful, may occupy two, and perhaps
three seasons ; but confiding, as I do, from personal know-
ledge, in his perseverance and talent for surmounting
difficulties, the strength of his ships, and the abundance
of provisions with which they are stored, I have very little
apprehension of his safety. ' As I understand his object
was to keep the coast of America close on board, he will
find in the spring of the year, before the breaking up of
the ice can permit him to pursue his voyage, herds of deer
flocking in abundance to all parts of the coast, which may
be procured without difficulty; and even later in the
season, additions to his stock of provisions may be ob-
tained on many parts of the coast, should circumstances
give him leisure to send out hunting parties. With the
trawl, or seine-nets, also, he may almost evei^where get
abundance of fish, even without retarding his progress.
Under these circumstances, I do not conceive that he
runs any hazard of wanting provisions, should his voyage
be prolonged even beyond the latest period of time
which is calculated upon. Drift-wood may be gathered
at many places in considerable quantities ; and tnere is a
fair prospect of his opening a communication with the
Esquimaux, who come down to the coast to kill seals in
the spring, previous to the ice breaking up ; and from
whom, if he succeeds in conciliating their good-wiU, he
xn^ obtain provision, and much useml assistance."

In June, 1851, Mr. John Hilton, in an interesting letter,
published in the Manchester Guardian, suggested the
desirability of trying the route between Spitzbergen and
Nova Zembla ; and the following are extracts from his com*
munication : —

*' Upon an inspection of the globe, and bearing in mind
the foregoing remarks, I think your readers will agree
with me in stating that the most favourable route for as-
certaining the fate of our missing countrymen is for the
ships proceeding north, say between Spitzbergen and
Nova Zembla, and then, as the ice permits, so as to come
down towards the southward again in about long. 130° W.,
sending out boats daily east and west, and finally making
their egress by Lancaster Sound or Behring's Straits. It
appears, in my opinion, to be an erroneous idea the public
entertain of the N orth Polar Sea being an impenetrable
barrier of ice. Perhaps the following statement may as-
sist in removing much prejudice and doubt of the practi-
cability of a North Polar jpassage. The idea of a North
Polar passage to the East Indies was first suggested
in the year 1527* by Eobeit Thome, a merchant of Bristol,

SEARCiriXG BY SPITZBERGEN RECOMMENDED. 2*20

who, in a letter addressed to Dr. Ley, states : — * It is na
probable that the cosmographers should be mistaken in
the opinion of the Polar rcjijions being impassable from
extreme cold, as it has been found they were in supposing
the countries under the line to be uninhabitable from ex-
cessive heat.' In the year 1609, Jonas Poole, in the
Amitv, made an unsuccessful attempt to penetrate to the
North Pole, and, in concluding the account of his voyapje,
states — * I assure myself a passage may be attained this
way by the Pole, as any unknown way whatsoever, by
reason the sun doth give a great heat in this climate, and
the ice is nothing so huge as I have seen in lat. 73° N.'
In 1G15, Fotherby, upon the termination ' f ■ 's voyage,
says : — * Although I nave not attained my a».oire, yet, for-
asmuch as it appears not jet to the contrary, but that
there is a spacious sea betwixt Groinland and Spitzbergen,
although much pestered with ice;* and, with perseverance,
he believed a passage might be attained. In the year 1773,
the Roy^al Society made application, through the Earl of
Sandwich, to his Majesty King George the Third, for an
expedition to try how far navigation was practicable to-
wards the North Pole, and which his Majesty was pleased
to direct should be undertaken. Captain C. J. Phipps,
afterwards Earl of Mulgrave, had the honour of being en-
trusted with the conduct of this expedition. Like previous
voyagers, they did not attain their object. In 1606, Baffin
advanced as high as lat. 81° N. In 1751, Captani M'CuUam
attained the lat. 83° 30' N., where he found an open sea
and fair weather. In 1754, Captain Wilson, in the month
of June, advanced to lat. 83° N., and as high as 81°
found the sea clear of ice as far as he could see. At the
same time. Captain Guy, after four days of foggy weather,
was carried to the same spot; and Mr. Stevens, a most accu-
rate observer, was driven off Spitzbergen by a southerly wind
which blew for several days, and until he reached the lati-
tude 84° 30' N. during the whole of which time he met
with very little ice, and did not find the cold excessive.
Captain Sir W. E. Parry, in his attempt to reach the
North Pole in 1827, found the ice more broken up to the
northward than to the southward, and which caused him
to abandon the attempt of reaching the Pole by travelling
over the ice.

" I was informed personally, by a sailor who sailed with
Captain Scoresby, senior, that he well remembered their
being North of 83°, and at that time there was no ice in sight,
and a very heavy swell on. A very distinguished Arctic
w riter of the present day, relates the case of a whale, har-

~nr

230

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

mi'

pooned by a Greenland ship, getting away, and being
afterwards taken on the east coast of America with the
Greenlander'e harpoon in her. Sir John Franklin, duriii;>-
his overland route from the Coppermine Eiver towards
the eastward, and when in lat. 68° N. and long. 110° W.,
saw great quantities of driftwood ; and the fact of such
being found about Spitzbergen and the Greenland coast,
not only proves the existence of a North Polar passage,
but the certainty of there being an open communication
every season, or thereabouts, or how could the wood flow
with the current ? Would not its progress be staid, sup-
posing the North Polar sea to be an impenetrable barrier
of iceP Again, where must the whale abovementioned
have obtained fresh air during her passage across, if tliis
impenetrable barrier existed? Captain Sir W. E. Parry
states the drift of the ice to be about the rate of four mile.^
per diem towards the southward, — is it reasonable to sup-
pose that sufficient ice can form during the summer months
to supply the drift?

" Taking the above facts into consideration, it cannot be
denied that the North Polar route offers the most favour-
able plan for ascertaining the fate of our unfortunate
oountnrmen; and from personal observations made in
1849, 1 can assert that, in Davis Straits, we found less ice
to the northward than we met towards the southward.
This is easily accounted for from the fact of the current in
the Greenland sea setting to the S.W., and in Behring's
Strait it flows N.E., agam proving the existence of a com-
munication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans by a
North Polar passage."

In January, 1852, Mr. Au^stus Petermann, an emi-
nent geographer, published in the Athenceum his en-
larged views on the same subject, which, with some valu-
able data on the abundance of animal life in the Arctic
regions, he has since published in a separate form.* In
this pamphlet he states, that a line drawn from Melville
Island to the Herald and Plover Islands (north of Behring's
Strait) and another from Melville Island to Spitzbergen
on the American side, would, with the Siberian coasts and
islands on the Asiatic side, include the space in which
Franklin must have been arrested, a space of fearful ex-
cent, when it is considered that the whole of the refjions
hitherto explored by the various expeditions sent in search
of him, are scarcely one-third of those which remain un-
explored.

The very fact that no suitable expedition has been sent

* •• The Search for Franklin." Longmans and Co. IS52.

, and beinc:
'ica with tlie
iklin, duriii;^
ver towards
Qg. 110° W..
fact of suck
(iiland coast,
)lar passage,
tnmunieation
le wood flow
e staid, sup-
rable barrier
vementioned
Dross, if tliis
W. E. Parry
of foiir inilec?
Dable to sup-
amer montus

, it cannot be
most favour-
unfortunate
ms made in
Dund less ice
! southward.
16 current in
in Behring's
ice of a c'om-
Oceans by a

nn, an emi-
um his en-
some valu-
the Arctic
form.* In
om Melville
of Behring's
Spitzbergen
n coasts and
36 in which
fearful cx-
the regions
nt in search
remain un-

is been sent

1S52.

AN UNEXPLORED ROUTE COXSIDERED.

231

out in that direction, and that no proper attempt has
bL'en made in any vessel, or by any nation, to proceed
northwards in that sea, ought to have stimulated to such
an expedition. If only one of the eleven vessels enga2:ed
in the search for Sir John Franklin, in the summer of 1850,
in Balfin's Bay and Liincastcr Sound alone, had been
despatched in that direction, it would probably have
echpsed, in geographical discovery alone, all Polar ex-
peditions as yet undertaken ; for the possibility of reaching
the North Pole through the Spitzbergen sea, will not now
long remain a matter of doubt, or a desideratiun.

When it is considered that no ice whatever in that
region is met vith till Bear Island is reached, only
1500 mUes from "Woolwich, and that thence to the 80th
parallel there is another distance of only 500 miles, and
that this could be performed by a steamer in less than
a fortnight, and at a most trifling cost, if compared
with the sums which have been spent in Arctic and
Antarctic undertakings; and if, at such trifling risk, a
problem can be solved, which, irrespectively of Frank-
Jin's expedition, is of the highest geographical interest,
and discoveries would probably be made of great import-
ance to the whale fishery ; — then, indeed, it must be looked
on as a disgrace in the history of Arctic navigation that
such a small undertaking has not long since been ac-
complished beyond Wellington Channel, and some of
the other northern straits in the hope of getting into the
Polar basin.

Fatal errors (observes Captain Sir Charles W"ilkes of the
United States Navy) have been made in attempting the
search in vessels, it being quite evident to the simplest
mind, that if ships can track Sir John, he certainly would
be enabled to get out. Therefore, it always has appeared
to me absurd nonsense and a waste both of time, energy,
and money to keep vessels, the scene of whose operations
must be limited to the line of the fast ice.

The futile attempts of search around the icy bays is no
less so. The only and true course is a thorough explora-
tion over the ice by sledges or boats, making the advance, in
all directions, under a well organized plan and on a regular
base of operations, but particularly to the westward from
WeUington Channel, where his trail was struck. The end
in view of a future search ought to be to examine narrowly
the Arctic region, which must and will result in the discovery
of some tidings, either afBrmative or negative, of the fate of
this gallant man and his companions. It behoves the govern-
ment of Great Britain to consider the search as now but
legun, and it ought and must be continued as becomes a

232

PROG HESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

m iJ ii

great nation, under whose flag and in wlioae service Sir Julin
and his companions have risked, and are, if alive, endurini;
great privations. The cost is nothing compared with the
glory of effecting their rescue, worth tenfold the eflbrts
hitherto made to find and effect a north-west passage.

No one who has not had personal communication with
the brave men who have been engaged in this work of
mercy, can perhaps appreciate the immense exertion of their
labours in that severe climate ; yet out of the ten searching
vessels engaged during three years on the eastern side,
including the Americans, but one man died, nor did any
casualty occur either to the ships themselves, or to the various
boating and sledge parties. Indeed not more than twenty
deaths have occurred during all the Arctic voyages of dis-
covery of thepresentccntury , outof some 1500men employed,
and scarcely half of these are fairly attributable to the
severity of the climate, or the perils and dangers encountered.

The accounts of the animal life and capabilities of the
Arctic regions are interesting, even though the great ques-
tion of the fate of our missing voyagers is solved.

The following extract from a letter, dated Hong-Kong,
March 28 , 1852, Dears upon this subject : — " There have been
here no less than thirty-seven whalers from the Arctic Seas.
It may interest you to know, that they almost all believe
that Sir John Franklin is safe, and that he has got through
the ice barriers into inner waters, where he will not be
reached until a mild season arrives, which they assert the
present will be. They say Franklin will not suffer for
want of food, and give strange accounts of the Esqui-
maux vibrating from the Asiatic to the American conti-
nent, and back again, carrying their boats, made of skins
and whalebone, over the ice, and launching them when
they meet with open water. They all confirm the fact,
that the whales found in Behring's Strait, and in Baffin's
Bay are the same species ; proving the existence of a pas-
sage ; for a whale of the Arctic species has never been
seen to the south of the 22nd degree of latitude ; so they
cannot have doubled either of the Capes (of Good Hope or
Cape Horn), and the whale is under the necessity of making
his presence known, by coming to the surface to blow."

Dr. Rae tells us ** in 1846-7, 1 wintered at Repulse Bay,
with a party of twelve men, only two of whom, before
arriving there, had ever practised deer shooting, and
two others were fishermen. We had little or no fuel,
tJiat could be properly so called; the mud with which
our storehouse was plastered never dried, but only froze,
and it was so cold inside that a man, one night, got his

PROBABILITIES OF SAFETY.

233

rice Sir Julin
vc, cndurini;
red with the
1 the efl'orts
passage,
iication with
this work of
Ttion of their
ten searching
eastern side,
nor did any
to the various
I than twenty
Dyages of dis-
lenemployed,
iitable to the
3 encountered,
bilities of the
le great ques-

Ived.

i Hong-Kong,
lere have been
le Arctic Seas.
)8t all believe
is got through
e will not be
ey assert the
lot suffer for
f the Esqui-
eriean conti-
aade of skins
them when
irm the fact,
1 in Baffin's
nee of a pas-
i never been
ide; 80 they
ood Hope or
ity of making
to blow."
Repulse Bay,
hom, before
.ooting, and
or no fuel,
witli which
only froze,
ht, got his

kneo frost-bitten, although he had one of his companions
under the blankets with him. Yet we suffered no
privation as regarded food, except that during the shortest
days, we took only one meal per diem^ as a precautionary
measure, not knowing how late it might be m the spring
before the reindeer migrated northward.

" That we were not much the worse for our exposure to
cold and low diet may be inferred from the fact, that, in
the spring, we traced aoout 500 miles of new coast, form-
ing the shores of Committee Bay, in doing which I and
one of my men travelled on foot upwards of 1000 miles,
and were, on our return (although rather low in flesh), as
sound and well as when we started.

" When leaving York Factory, Hudson's Bay, in June,
1846, we had not more than four months* provisions w ith
us ; when we returned to that place, after an absence of
fourteen months and twenty-tnree days, we had still a
third of our original stock of provisions on hand, showing
that we had by our own exertions, in a countrv previously
totally unknown to us, obtained the means of subsistence for
twelve months. Why may not Sir John Franklin's party
do the same P If he has been providentially thrown on or
near a part of the coast where reindeer and fish are at all
numerous, surely out of so many officers and men, sports-
men may be found, after some practice, expert enough to
shoot the former, and fishermen to seize or net the latter,
or take them with hook and line set under the ice."

Dr. Rae and his party, when in Kepulse Bay, shot 162
deer, which, with 200 partridges and a few salmon, were
stored in their snow-built larder for their winter stock.
A couple of seals, which had been shot, produced oil
enough for their lamps, and by nets set in the lake, under
the ice, a few more salmon were now and then caught.
In the beginning of March the reindeer began to migrate
northward, and although they were very shy one was shot.

The expeditions by land and sea, of the past ten years
have at least been attended with these beneficial results —
the very important geographical discoveries made of
land to the north of Behring's Strait, of extensive open
waters and available channels in Wellington Strait and
Jones' and Smith's Sounds, Regent Inlet, and the dis-
covery of an outlet westward, thence to Victoria Strait
(making North Somerset an island).

Although the determination of the fate of the party
has rendered all speculation futile, yet it may not be out
of place to retain the following observations and facts here.

1st. That Sir Jolm Franklin's party would not wait to
increase their stock of provisions until the approach of

1^ W • I !

23 L.

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

i iJ

want, but would avail themselves from tlio very first of
the resources of tlio country, in fish, animals, and birds,
and thus husband their own stores.

These resources are well known to bo in certain quarters
abundant; and I may add tho obvious argument that
where Esquimaux live, other men may exist also.

2nd. As to the want of fuel, if even the sacrifice of one
of the ships was not resorted to, this mi^ht be met by the
chance supply of drift-wood and of blubber, tho usual fuel
of the Esquimaux.

In his second journey to the westward, Franklin found
at Garry's Island, oflf the mouth of the Mackenzie, num-
bers of moose, and rein-deer, and foxes ; several kinds of
gul^s, dotterel, geese, cranes, and swans, were flocking
around its shores.

During the autumn, their fislilnjjf was so successful, that
the nets yielded daily from 300 to 800 fish of the kind
called herring-salmon, and occasionally trout, carp, and
other fish.

Sir John Richardson, speaking from the experience of
his boat voyages, on this occasion, says :— " There is such
an abundance of drift timber on almost every part of the
coast, that a suflScient supnly of fuel for a ship might easily
be collected." And ho aads, " should the course of events
ever introduce a steam vessel into those seas, it may be
important to know that, in coasting tho shores between
Cape Bathurst and tho Mackenzie, firewood sufficient for
Ler daily consumption may bo gathered."

The Farry group of islands seem to abound in animals :
when Sir E. Parry wintered here, at Melville Island, in
1819-20, they were most numerous, and the visit of Lieut.
M'Clintock and his party last year, proves that they are
still as plentiful, and as easily to be procured.

Parry's party, in a few hunting excursions, obtained 3
musk oxen, 24 deer, 63 hares, 53 geese, 59 ducks, 144
ptarmigan, many gulls and other birds, amounting in
weight to nearly 4000 lbs. of meat, or about 3^ lbs. ner
montli to each man. One of the musk oxen he killed
weighed 700 lbs. Several bears and foxes were also
seen.

Lieut. M'Clintock, in his long and unparalleled sledge-
journey, found that musk oxen, rein-deer, hares, and ptar-
migan, still abound on Melville Island. His party killed
four oxen out of about fifty seen, one rein-deer out of
thirty-four seen, two bears and a wolf, seven hares out of
eighty or ninety seen. The hares, he observes, were as
tame as any one most anxious to procure game could wish.

ANIMALS IN THE AHCTIC REGIONe.

iSo

TfTcnty ptarmipnn wero shot. Had it been his object, he
remnrks, \w could easily have i?hot two-thirda «jf ail the
(tAL'n he Haw. The lian-s were often met with in flocks oi
twenty or thirty. The deer approached them within
100 yards, with more of curiogity than fear, — and even
after one was shct, the herd trotted round the party two
or three times, before they fiuiUly deserted their fallen
companion.

All the other islands about this quarter arc equally well
supplied. In perusing, as I have done most carefully,
the several Arctic Ijlue 13ooks, just published by Parlia-
ment, giving detailed accounts of the various exploring
sledge parties, I have been particularly struck with the
quantity of game which was fallen in with in all direc* ions.

Austin Island, and the shores southward and westv.ard
of Capo Walker, have also numerous a/iimals, and are fre-
quented by birds. So are Beaufort, Eathurst, and Corn-
wallis Lands. In Wellington and Viett>iia s^iiannels
animal life is even more abundant, and thore is i.tledoi/lt
Sir John Franklin took every opportunity of replenish -I
his stock while wintering at the entrance in 1815-40.

Captain Penny and his officers found bears, -^rls, rein-
deer, walruses, and hares, plentiful on these sh jret Thou-
sands of ducks and sea-fowl of all sorts were -een. They
killed, during their short journey — three ptarmigan, four
bears out of thirty-five seen, three seals, a walrus, and
fourteen hares, and one reindeer; a herd of twenty or
thirty deer was seen.

The following is a list of the animals killed by H.M.S.
Assistance, and her tender, the Intrepid, between the date
of their arrival at Whalefish Islands, June 15, 1850. and
the time of leaving Baffin's Bay, on their return home, in
August, 1851, or a little more than a year. Animals—
thirteen bears, which were seen in .r'^at numbers in all
directions ; twenty-two foxes, mostly '■ ken in traps about
the winter quarters of the ships. I'hey were botn nume-
rous and well fed, and seen by all the travelling parties
about the Parry group. Nine bares — these were in good
condition, weighing upwards c I ten pounds. They were
found at Comwallis Land, Griffith's Island, at Cape Walker,
the shores of Wellington Channel, and Wolstenholme
Sound, in Baffin's Bay. Four musk oxen, and one deer,
on Melville Island. Three lemmings, a seal, and two
narwhals, or sea-unicorns.

Of birds, the number was Tery great— beiM, in all.
3174 birds.

Now, if we average these birds at one pound weight

1 ' i ' '

\<i-

'i:,

J 1: '

t'i-
Mi

23'J

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

oach, and suppose the animals procured to yield another
3000 lbs., we have about 17 lbs ofauimal food for division
daily amongst the crews.

Captain Beechey, in his account of the voyage of Captain
Buchan, tells us of the immense flocks of birdu found on
the shores and bays of Spitzbergen, where millions are on
the wing at a time, and so close together, that thirty have
fallen at a single shot. The explorers of the rich mines
of fossil ivory who go forth annually from Siberia to the
northern islands, maintain themselves solely by hunting
and Ashing.

In the last published work of Dr. Sir John E-ichardsson,
the old companion of Franklin, he repudiated the idea of
the vessels being so ^utterly lost that no traces could be dis-
covered of them.

" That the ships were not suddenly wrecked by a storm,
or overwhelmed by the pressure of the ice, may be con-
cluded from facts gathered from the records of the Davis's
Strait Whale Fishery, by which we learn, that of the
many vessels which have oeen crushed by the ice, in the
course of several centuries, the whole or greater part of
the crews have almost always escaped with their boats.
It is, therefore, scarcely possible to believe, that two
vessels, so strongly fortified as the Erebus and Terror,
and found by previous trials to be capable of sustaining so
enormous a pressure, should both of them have been so
suddenly crushed as to allow no time for active officers
and men, disciplined and prepared for emergencies of the
kind, to get out their boats. And having done so, they
woidd have had little difficulty in reaching one of tho
many whaling vessels out there, or some of the searching
ships that have been employed for several years past.
Moreover, had the ships oecn wrecked, some fragments
of their spars or hulls would ha\ o been found floating by
the whalers, or being cast on the fc-ores which have beeu
searched, would have been met with by cither Europeans
or natives. Neither are any severe storms reconlcd as
having occurred then or there, nor did any unusual cala-
mity bcfal the f shing vessels that years.

** The present Admiral Sir John lioss, was more than
four years absent and unheard of in the Arctic regions,
yet he returned safe, with as many of his people as would
probably have survived the ordinary contmgencies of lifo
liad they suflercd no severity. Why then, should we
utterly despair of those who, incomparably better pro-
vided, have entered on another year of absence P If a
body of men lived out, whilst unheard of, more than foul

\ /

CHANCES OP SAFETY.

237

eld another
for division

[c of Captain
ill found on
lions are on
: thirty have
e rich mines
(iberia to the
by hunting

Bichard.^on.^
d the idea of
I could be dis-
ci by a storm,
may be con-
>f the Davis's
that of the
lie ice, in the
reater part of
1 their boats.
!ve, that two
^ and Terror,
; sustaining so
have been so
active officers
^encies of the
'done so, they
ig one of the
the searching
il years past.
,mc fragments
kd floating by
lich have been
.cr Europeans
LS recorded as
unusual cala-

ras more than
Arctic regions,
leople as woul<l
igencies of hfo
tn, should ^Te
tly better pro-
IbsenceP It '^
Lore than foul

year.*?, why might not another body better set out, survive
a fifth or a sixth year? The good hand of a gracious pro-
vidence bein^ with them, they may survive this further
trial, and Britain may yet be privileged to welcome back
her all but lost sons to the land of their fathers."— (Sroresi^.

In the early part of the 17th century, Barentz, who had
been sent out by the Dutch to discover the north-west pas-
sage, was wrecked, and with his companions, fifteen in num-
ber, passed the entire winter in the 76th parallel of latitude,
deriving a subsistence by eating foxes, which were abun-
dant. They left their wmter quarters on the breaking up
of the ice in two open boats ; and after the most desperate
exertions, continued during two months, tliey reached
Kilduin, in Lapland, a distance of upwai*ds of 1000 miles,
with the loss of only two men.

Such instances as these are full of cheering hope with
regard to our missing navigators.

The shores of Wolstenholme Sound are frequented
by deer, bears, seals, walruses, foxes, hares, lemmings,
w olverine, and all the varieties of sea fowl. At the Gary
Islands about 1000 loons were obtained in a couple of
days by the boats of the Assistance to preserve for the
ship's company. Dovekies and rotges were also in abun-
dance.

In Lancaster Sound and its inlets, shoals of eider dnck,
brent geese, and large quantities of other birds, are con-
tinually met with.

In Kegent Inlet and Boothia Peninsula, Sir John Ross,
when wmtering in 1829-33, obtained vast quantities of
food from animals indigenous to the country, and this
almost through the entire year. Whales, seals, and nar-
whals were numerous. The Esquimaux in the vicinity
of their winter quarters, caught eighteen or twenty seals
in a couple of days ; two musk oxen and very many bears
of a large size were killed. Hares and foxes were ex-
ceedingly common, and formed an ever y-day dish on their
table. Grouse, ducks, and various water birds, were
obtained without the least difficulty, and a tolerable sports-
man was always able to bring home two or three brace of
grouse and a leash of hares.

Salmon of one or two pounds weight were taken in the
lakes by thousands, ana 4000 or 5000 were frequently
netted at a draught. At all points of the inlet which
they visited— Felix and Victoria Harbours, Batty and
Garry Bays, Finny Point, Cascade Beach, &c., animals
were equally plentiful.

When the Enterprise and Investigator v^'micrcdi at Poit

(.'J •

288

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

Leopold, in 1848-9, shooting parties of two men from each
ship were stationed at Whaler Point ; and so plentiful
were the dovekies and loon, that a bird per man was
served out regularly to the ships' crews. From a record
kept on board the Investigator, it appears that 4000 birds
were killed, y^ielding SSOOlbs. of meat ; but many were
shot by individuals, of which no register was kept. More
than one hundred foxes were caught, and liberated agiiin,
after copper collars had been fixed round their necks.

Dr. Scoresby states, that Captain Parker, in the True-
love, in 1833, captured twenty-eight whales, and lost
fifteen others, between Cape '5?'ork and Cape Kater, in
Kegent inlet ; and they found the sea there in the month of
•July literally swarming with life. The numbers of the
larger kind of arctic animals seen, as whales, narwhals,
walruses, seals, bears, &c., were such as to have excited
unmixed amazement, whilst birds innumerable of various
species, almost covered the water.

Sir John Richardson, in his recently published account
of his searching journey, adduces statistics to show the
abundance of game which rewarded the efforts of his hunt-
ing parties in the winter of 1848-49. To the middle of
April in the latter year, there were received into the
storehouse attached to their winter quarters, 5191 fish,
13,810 lbs. of fresh venison. 9220 lbs. of half-dry venison,
360 lbs. of pounded meat, 353 lbs. of rein-deer fat, and 625
rein-deer tongues.

Mr. Isbister tells us that one of the last winters he
passed in the Hudson's Bay Company territories was on
the borders of the Arctic Sea, near the mouth of the
Mackenzie ; and from their fisheries alone they found no
difficulty in maintaining a large party of Europeans and
natives, whom the novelty of the event had attractcl
around him.

Sir John Franklin, in his account of his first loumoy to
the shores of the Polar Sea, gives ample details and par-
ticulars of the numerous birds and anmials which he met
with in the iludson's Bay Company's territories, and
along the northern shores and islands of Arctic America.
He sneaks, too, of Mr. Isbister's making light of a long
and fatiguing sohtary journey, in search of a party of
trading Indians, when at one time he was four days
without food of any kind for himself or his dogs ; and
when, on the point of killing one of the dogs to satisfy
his hunger, he happily met with a beaten track, which led
him to some In<.lian lodges, where he was supplied with
food.

ABUNDANCE OF ANIMAL LIFE.

239

from each
> plentiful
man was
n a record
4000 birds
many were
?pt. More
ited agtiin,
necks.
I the True-
3, and lost
5 Kater, in
he month of
bers of the
I, narwhals,
lavo excited
e of various

bed account
X) show the
I of his hunt-
be middle of
red into the
J, 5191 fish,
dry venison,
fat, and 625

winters he
:,ories was on
LOuth of the
ley found no
iropeans and
(ad attracted

at journey to
fails and par-
Irhich he met
Iritories, and
Itic America.
Iht of a long
If a party of
Is four days
lis dogs; and
TS to satisfy
-ck, which led
[upplied with

In the barren grounds between Fort Enterprise and
the mouth of the Coppermine, more than two hundred
deer were shot in a very short time, and lar^e flocks of
waveys [Anas hyperhorea) were met with, many of which
fell to their guns.

Their fishery at Foi c Enterprise yielded 1200 white fish,
weif^hing from two to three pounds each. Geese and
ducks they also found abundant— indeed, too plentiful—
for it is made a subject of complaint that the hunters were
apt to waste upon them their ammunition given for kiUing
deer.

About two dozen musk oxen were slain at various times,
and a bear or two. The hunters could often even beat
down young geese with their sticks; forty excellent salmon
and white fish were taken at a draught near the Bloody
Falls.

They learnt from the Esquimaux, as well as from their
own experience, that reindeer frequent the coast during
summer, that fish are plentiful at the mouths of the rivers,
and seals abundant, whilst drift-wood was found all along
the shores.

In Bathurst Inlet, and Austin and Melville Sounds,
they shot many deer ; and bears and seals were plentiful,
if they had required to take them. The shallows were
covered with shoals of capeUn ; and their nets produced,
from time to time, a great variety of fish, particularly
salmon-trout, round fish, herrings, and so forth. They also
UUcd several swans, cranes, and gray geese.

Sir John Kichardson, speaking of the amount of food to
be obtained in these regions, says : —

" Deer migi'ate over the ice in the spring, from the
main shore to Victoria and WoUaston lands, in large
herds, and return in the autumn. These lands are also
the breedinj^-places of vast flocks of snow geese ; so that,
with ordinary skill in hunting, a large supply of food
might be procured on their shores, in the months of June,
July, and August. Seals are also numerous in those seas,
and are easily shot, their curiosity rendering them a ready
prey to a boat party."

Dr. Rae, in searching Wollaston Land, in May,
1851, found abundance of drift wood about the shores,
Many partridges were seen, but, as they were shy, only
eleven were shot by himself and his two men ; these birds
Tcre very large, and fine eating. Deer were very nume-
rous, and several hares were seen ; but as they had abun-
dance of provisions with them, no attempt was made to
approach them

(;'

iVl

iff It ^H

240

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

The inhabitants of thirteen Esquimaux lodges, whom
they met with at Cape Hamilton, were all verjr fat, havinr^
abundance of seal's nesh and fat, large quantities of whieli
were carefully deposited in seal-skin bags under the
snow.

Capt. Penny, in a letter to the Admiralty, on his return
from the Arctic Seas in the autumn of 1851, stated that the
high northern latitude once reached, comparative open
water would be found. The climate improved, and in proof
of this he states, that within Victoria Channel, at Point
Surprise, lat. 76° 2', long. 95° 55', he found ducks on the
17th of May, full a month earlier than in the lower lati-
tude ; while the sea was even then so free from ice, that
the water washed their verj] feet as they stood on the

f)oint. The quantity of drift-wood was comparatively
arge, and among this was found a piece of English elm.
Walruses and seals were also seen and killed by Capt.
Penny's party.

The Esquimaux, according to Dr. Kichardson, assemble
on the various headlands, from the Mackenzie eastward,
to chase the black and white whales.

Whales are found in great numbers on all the coasts in
the vicinity of Behring's Strait, and the whalers have
capiured them in high north latitudes.

On the Herald Islands and newlv-discovered lands to
the northward, innumerable black and white divers
(common to this sea) deposit their eggs, and bring up
their young.

Of the resources of the northern shores of Siberia, we
have unfortunately very scanty materials for forming an
accurate judgment, from the scattered notices occurring
under this head, in the valuable work of Professor Bauer,
of St. Petersburgh, drawn chiefly from official sources,
sufficient information may, however, be gathered, to
warrant us in inferring that they are little if at all inferior
to those of the corresponding Arctic coast of America.
Thi3 much at least, we know, that every summer sends
forth parties of adventurous explorers from Siberia, main-
taining themselves — as only they can maintain themselves
in these latitudes^by hunting and fishing, for the purpose
of working the rich mines of fossil ivory, found in such
abundance in the neighbouring islands, which have been
described as one vast deposit of the remains of the mam-
moth.

2^1

DISCOVERY OP THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Captain M'Clure, in the search for Franklin, has been
fortunate enough to achieve the discovery of the long-
sought " North-west passage ;" indeed, he discovered two
passages, one between Melville Island and Banks' Land,
and the other by the Prince of Wales' Strait, which com-
municates with that of Barrow, at the eastern extreme ot
the last named land. This was effected on the 26th of Oct.,
1850, by a travelling party over the ice, the vessel being
frozen in the pack, where she wintered, about seventy
miles to the southward. Talking up the proceedings of tho
Investiffator, from the date of the last mformation, given
at page 211 (Aug. 5, 1850), I may state that, coasting along
the edge of the ice, they found, on the 6th, an opening
eastward of Wamwright's Inlet, and pushing through it
succeeded in rounding Point Barrow at midnight.

On the 6th Sep. they discovered this first land, which
has since been ascertained to be an island, whose north
side forms Banks' Land. On the 9th, while standing to
the N.E., they made another discovery, which Captain
M'Clure called Albert's Land ; it is continuous with Wol-
laston and Victoria Land, and appears indeed to foi-m one
large island. On the 14th July, 1851, the ice broke up,
and for near a month the ship drifted helplessly about, in
Prince of Wales* Strait. On the 14th Aug. they were
within twenty-five miles of Barrow Strait, and anticipated
being set into it, when in all probabiUty they would have
fallen in with Captain Austin's ships, and so got to Eng-
land that year. A strong north-easter, however, set such
quantities of ice upon them, and drove the ship so rapidly
to the southward, that on the 16th Captam M'Clure
determined to retrace his course down tho Strait, and
endeavour to worm his way through the polar ice, to the
west c^ Baring Island, so as to come down, if possible,
between Melville Island and Banks' Land, feeling con-
vinced, from the report of a travelling party he had des-
patched to the westward in the spring, that a channel
woidd be found in that direction.

On the 24th Sep., while running in a snow-storm, the
Investigator grounded on a reef, and was thus frozen in in
a secure harbour, named by the commander the Bay of
Mercy, hit. 74° 6' N, long. 117° 15' W, where she re-
mained at the last accounts, on the 15th of April, 1853.

It is strange to reflect how near Parry, in his first voyage,
was to discovering the North-west passage. When on tho

■"•VP"

f fO

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

11 '

i #m

mi n

south-west point of Mflviiic Island (see pag? 02) and
looking westward he saw the land which is named in the
charts Banks' Land. M'Clure, in 1850-1, was at thi
eastern end of the land, and from this point, looking cast-
ward, he saw Melville Island. He thus discovered the
North-west passage. Parry and M'Clure were looking
apparently at each other, the one having got to his posi-
tion from the North Sea or Atlantic Ocean, the other to
his position from the South Sea or Pacific Ocean, the one
by sailing 2,500 miles, and the other by sailing 1,800 miles.
Parry, in 1820, four-and-thirty years ago, looked wistfuU}'^
across the ice-bound strait, and thought, "Yonder are
America and China !" M'Clure, in 1851, or three years
ago, looked hopefully over the same ice-covered channel
and said, " Yonder are Davis' Strait, and Scotland and
England ;" but neither could take his ship through, though
within seventy miles of the same spot.

But if the passage could not be made by sea, the ice
could be traversed m sledges. This was done. M'Clure
and a travelling party crossed the strait, in April, 1852
reached Winter Harbour, deposited a despatch there, ami
returned to their ship. ^

The interview between the oflScers of the Resolute and
Investigator was a remarkable one. Commander M'Clure
and Caj)tain Kellet liad last parted three years previous
in Behring's Straits, and now they met on the other side of
the pole. A travelling party from the Resoiute had fortu-
nately 'V'isited Winter Bay, Melville Island, and there found
the despatches lodged by the Investigator s party, in whicli
Captain M'Clure had intimated his progress and futu]'e
intentions ; immediately on the discovery of this, a relief
party was sent off in quest of the ship, and found her
in the Bay of Mercy. Lieutenant Pirn was in advance
of his party, and his reception is thus stated : —

" M'Clure and his First Lieutenant were walking on the
floe. Seeing a person coming very fast towards them,
they supposed he was chased by a bear, or had seen a bear.
Walked towards him: on getting onwards a hundred
yards, they could see from his proportions that he was not
one of them. Pim began to screech and throw up his
hands (his faee as black as my hat) ; this brought the captain
and lieutenant to a stand, as they could not hear suffi-
ciently to make out his language.

"At length Pim reached the party, quite beside him-
self, and stammered out, on M'Clure aslking him, * Who
are you, and where are you come from,' — 'Lieutenant
Pim, Herald, Captain Kellet.' This was more inexplicable

DisrovEPv or TUT. NonTn-^VE-T PASS An::.

243

to M'Cluro, as 1 Mas tlic last ])(Tson ho sliook liniKl- a itli
in Behring's Straits. Ho at length ibuml that this sc»liitiiy
stranger was a true Englishman — an angel of light : lie
says — ' He soon was seen trom the ship — they had only
one hatchway open, and the crew were fairly jammed there,
in their endeavour to get up. The sick jumped out of
their hammocks, and the crew forgot their despondency;
in fact, all was changed on board tlie Invcstifjator' "

I may state here that the despatches of Captain M'Clure
point out two important facts ; iirst, that his vessel wag
icoloekcd in the route of the North-west passage, for three
winters, within 160 miles of places previously discovered,
and that without any communication between his vessel
and others imtil 1853 ; and, secondly, that food in great
abundance was easily procured, and that the health of
officers and crew was maintained without dilliculty.

The return of game killed by the officers and a portion
of the crew of the Investigator between October 1. 1850,.
and the 8th April, 1853, comprised the following, alth" )Ugh
the larger portion was killed during the spring of 1853 : —

Number killed.

Musk-ox ... 7

Deer 110

Hares .... 169
Grouse .... 486
Ducks .... 198
Geese .... 29
Wolves ... 2
Bears .... 4

Average weight each.

2781b8.
70lbs.
eibs.
not weighed.

Total weight.

I,9i511)s.
7,7161bs.
l,014lbs.

Total killed 1,005.

The size of the musk-ox varied considerably, but the
deer that were killed did not vary in size so much. The
deer were found to be very fat, although their principal
food merely consisted of the herbage which was obtained
from a small tree called the dwarf willow. As the crew
only kept, as it were, on the ridges of the sea, no other
food was observable, but there is no doubt the doer found
an abundance of food further up the country. They were
very wild, and the gunners had to display great pre-
caution in shooting them. The manner in which the crew
got within gun-shot was this : they secreted themselves in
various parts of the ravines, or behind the sand-hills, and
listened with breathless silence until they heard the deer
tap the snow oflf the willow with their feet in order to eat
the herbage. When the air was frosty, and the weather
calm, this tapping could be heard at a distance of about

— ^"'"^

24 4

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

11!

200 yards, and by lidtoning and observing minutely, the
gunner easily detected the position in which his prey ^va3
located. As soon as this was correctly ascertained, a
person was sent a considerable distance roiuid the deer,
and a slight noise having been made at their back they
immediately run off'— prooably past the gunner. It was in
such instances that the chances of a ** kill" occurred. One
hundred and ten deer were thus killed.

The grouse were not so wild as might have been ex-
pected; but the wild-fowl were somewhat wilder than those
usually found in Ireland and Scotland.

The musk-ox was found to bo a very ferocious animal,
and great danger necessarily attended the attacks. They
were easily approached, and when wounded they ran head-
long at the gunner. One of the crew had a very narrow
escape from being torn to pieces. He had fired one
charge without its taking effect, and having no more
ammunition with him, he luckily fired, his iron ramrod at
the infuriated beast, and dropped him lifeless just as the
animal was about to make the attack.

If the expedition had had an opportunity of going
further up the country, away from tlie sea, there is no
doubt but thousands ot game would have been killed.

The pleasing intelligence of the safety of the officers
and crew of the Investigator did not come without alloj-.
2f ews was brought home of the melancholy death of Lieu-
tenant Bellot, the French officer, who had already, on a
previous occasion, visited the Polar Seas in search of our
missing countrymen. The intelligence was received by
Commander Inglefield, in an official letter from Captain
PuUen. It appears that this noble seaman was blown
away from the shore, in company with two seamen, upon a
floe of ice. He had mounted to the top of a hummuck in
order to reconnoitre the position, and to see what could be
done for the safety of his two companions. At this
moment he was taken by the wind, thrown into a crack
in the ice, and unfortunately drowned. The two men
were saved, after driving about for thirty hours, without
food or hope. The records of Arctic heroism can show no
brighter name than that of Bellot. He was endeared to
all his English shipmates by every social quality, as well
as by his unflinching valour and daring. Our countrymen
have done justice to the memory of his virtues by a
subscription for his family and a monument to be erected
to him in Greenwich Hospital.

The indifference with, which the announced discovery of
the North-west passage was generally received, both in

DISCOVEUY OF THE KORTII-WEST PASSAGE. 245

linutely, the
lis prey v as
certained, a
id the deer,
p back they
p. It v:a» iu
irred. One

re been ex-
T than those

ions animal,
acks. Thev
By ran head-
very narrow
d fired one
ig no more
a ramrod at
i just as the

ty of going
there is no
a killed.

the officers
itliout alloy,
ath of Lieu-
ready, on a
arch of our
received by
rom Captain
was blown
men, upon a
hummuck in
hat could be
At this
into a crack
two men
urs, without
can show no
endeared to
ility, as well
countrymen
irtues by a
be erected

discovery of
red, both in

England and in America was somewhat surprising. The
existence of such a passage had been for three cen-
turies reckoned among the most dillicult and doubtful of
geographical problems. Great prizes have been ollored
))y public bodies and by private individuals for its practical
solution ; and expedition after expedition has been fitted
out at vast expense to carry on the investigation. For
this object hardships have been endured and dangers i-un
in the Arctic Seas such as can be found in no other mari-
time record. And yet, after all, when the result of this
long research has been at last attained, and sober certainty
takes the place of imaginative doubt, the fact does not
even excite the interest of a nine days* wonder. It mixes
in with the current of ordinary events, and quickly passes
from attention. This is owing mainly to two reasons —
the impression of the utter uselessncss of the discovery
for all practical purposes, and the universal feeling of
regret that the lives of so many gallant men should have
been sacrificed for such an end. The fact that Captain
M'Clure, of the Investigator, of whom, for the last three
years, more has been expected in the work of discovering
traces of Sir John Franklin, than of any other individual,
has not been able to obtain the least clue to the object of
his search, has done much in destroying the interest in
what he actually did accomplish. For years he has been
where no other ship has ever been before him. He has
discovered new land, defined a long extent of coast line
that was before uncertain, held intercourse with a new
people, has verified the existence of a North-west passage
by the discovery of a channel into Barrow's Strait from
the open sea, so frequently seen by Franklin and others
from the coast of North America, and, after being frozen
nearly three years in the ice, has almost succeeded, and
doubtless in the end will quite succeed, in pushing his
ship through, and thus be the first man who has ever
sailed from the Pacific into the Atlantic. And yet all of
his achievements are hardly heeded in the disappointment
that nothing has been effected towards settling the busi-
ness on which the ship was specially despatched. The
discovery of Sir John Franklin would oe worth the
discovery of a North-west passage a thousand times
over.

WliUst the public were eagerly awaiting information
from the ships in Behrin^'s Strait, and the new American
expedition, the extraordinary announcement was made
through the press, that the name of Sir John Franklin
and his comrades of the Erehus and Terror would be

f'i

|'< '

IM1.

21<)

riCOC.IlESS OP AUCTIO DISCO VLRV.

stnick oli' the Navy List on the 3l8t of March, 1854, and
that the allotmeuta paid to their wives and children would
thenceforth cease.

But for the jiorsorerauco of a portion of those who com-
posed Captain M'Clure's expedition, and the better means
whicli they had for making long lounieys on the ice than
was at the disposal of Franklin, wheri')y they were enabled
to comnuniicatc with "Winter Harbour, the name of
Captain M'Clure and his gallant comrades would probably
also have been swept from the roll of the English service.
When men peril tlieir lives in the Arctic Ocean for the
fame and honour of their country, they should not receive
the summary treatment which, under the Statute of Limi-
tations, is applied to a note of hand, after the lapse of a
few years.

It is perfectly well known that Sir John Franklin
wintered, in 1815-G, at Becchy Island, and it is doubtks3
true that, in the summer of 1846, he passed into the open
sea to the North, on his way around the American con-
tinent, to make the North-west passage. This was the
object of his voyage, which he dia not expect to complete
Ix't'ore 1852. Is there any just ground for the assuniption
that his case is different from that of Captain M'Clure,
whose vessel, the Investig/ttor, is still imbedded in the ice
of Mercy Bay at Baring s Island P Food, we have scon,
is readily procured throughout the Arctic Sea ; health is
oasiily maintained there, and, as yet, only the surface has
been penetrated in the efforts to discover hin^ owing to
the continued severity of succeeding winters, and to the
■want of experience in the Arctic navigation and travel.
No one has yet followed Franklin into tlie open Polar Sea
— unless it be Dr. Kane. The efforts hitherto made have
been wholly inefficient, and they do not warrant the hasty
and cruel decision of the British Admiralty. If there
were ollieers behind Sir John Franklin waiting for pro-
morion, their case could have been accommodated in n
dillerent manner, at least, I suppose, with the aid of ai.
act of parliament; but, at a moment when the whoL
civilized world is deeply interested in the efforts made s
no1)ly for his rescue, and warm hopes are cherished for
their succiss, it seems wholly premature and inexplicable
that an order should bo issued, calculated to repress all
further cfi'orts for his discovery. The expcditiors which
have now gone forward are provided with means of
makino: long and rapid journeys over the iee. Sir John
Franklin was not; and \\c must owe to the exertions of
others, what Captain M'Clure's men so skilfully acco3..-

DISCOVERY OP THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

217

plishcd for thomselvcs. They went to Melville Island,
and left at Winter Ilarbour a notice stating where the
vessel was. A iiarty of Cup*ain Kellet's men foui-d it,
and went immeaiHtely to the vessel, as the distance was
only 160 miles. It is certain 8ir John Franklin had the
means to make the journey over ice and water, but if
he were 5CH) miles further west, locked up in tlie same
manner, he would be compelled to wait thereuntil relieved
by the ofibrts of others. It was the common belief of Arctic
navijjjators, and the belief has been partly accurately veri-
fied, that a succession of islands lines the northwest
coast from Baffin's Bay to beyond Behring's Strait.
Failing' to find an open passage from the Polar Sea, through
openings between those islands to that strait, Franklin
would of course winter, as did Captain M'Clure, in the
most convenient and accessible harbour, and, no doubt,
with the same result; Captain M'Clure took the inner
passage between those islands and the continent. The
means now exist for traversing this entire region with
safety, rapidity, and certainty. The question \^•nether or
not Sir John Franklin and his comrades died in the
service of England could not be justly decided, in view
of these acts, until after the intervenmg space between
the waters which flow into the Atlantic, ana those which
flow into the Pacific, had been thoroughly and in vain
examined.

The expedition of Capt. McClintock, and the intelligence
he brought home in 1859, has now set this question de-
finitively at rest. We know the spot where his ships were
blocked up by ice, and where they were ultimately aban-
doned.

At a dinner given in 1853, at his native town of Lynn,
to Lieutenant Cresswell, the bearer of Captain M'Clure's
despatches to the Admiralty, Sir Edward Parry, who was
present, thus spoke on the subject of Franklin 8 fate :—

" Wliile we are rejoicing over the return of our friend,
and the probable return of his shipmates, we cannot but
turn to that which is not a matter of rejoicing, but rather
a matter of sorrow and regret — that there has not been
found a single token of our dear long-lost Franklin and his
companions. Not only has that been the case in the ex-
pedition in which Lieutenant Gumey Cresswell has been
engaged, but I understand it to be the case with Sir Edward
Belcher, who has gone up the Wellington Inlet, where I
certainly thought traces must be found, because at Beechy
Island we knew Franklin passed the first winter when he

t ■;

2%S

PROOnESS OF ARCTIC DlSCOTfUV.

went out. There wo found throe jpravos of his men, — and
that is, up to the present moment, the ^ly tokon whatovcr
wo have received of him. I do con»« ' ' < ic d moat myiterious
thinjr, and I have thought of it as ;,!^^»<^ ;;j .nvljody. I
can lorra but a single idea of the proi uulo fate or Franklin.
I do not agree with our friend Gurney Crcssvn;!! about the
i)robability of both ships having gone down, and nothing
been seen of them, because, although it is true that nothing
might have been seen of the ships themselves, I do not
believe the crews would have all perished at one moment.
I think there is that stuIF aud stamina in 130 Englislimeu,
that, somehow or other, they would liavo maintained them-
selves as well us a parcel of Esquimaux would. They
would have found the Esquimaux, and there would have
been eomethmg like a trace of them if they had been on
earth. The only thiuj^ which I can suggest is this:
"Wellington Strait was discovered by myself on the expedi-
tion I spake of It is a large opening from Lancaster
Sound. When I was going up westward from Melvdle
Island, wo saw Wellington Strait perfectly free from ice,
and so I marked it on my chart, it was not my business
to go north as long as I could get west, and, therefore, we
ran past and did not examine it ; but it has always been
a favourite idea of those who imagined that the north-west
)assage was to be easily made by going north. That, wo
enow, was the favourite idea of 'Franlclin, and wo know
'. 10 did intend, if ho could not get westward, to go up
"Wellington Channel. We have it from his own lips. My
belief is still that after the Jirst winter he did ao up that
channel, and that having steam power (which I had not in
my time,) it is possible he may have gone up in a favourable
season; for you cannot imagine anything more diifcrent
than a favourable and an unfavourable season in those
regions. You cannot imagine the changes that take place
in the ice there. I have been myself sometimes beset for
two or three days together by the ice, in such a way that
from the mast-head I could not see sullicicnt water to float
that bottle in ; and in 24 hours there was not a bit of ico
to be scon — nobody could tell why— I cannot tell why :
and you might have sailed about as you may in your own
river, as far as ice is concerned. Therefore, in a favourable
season he may Lave gone up that inlet, and maify hy the
2^ower of steam andfavourable circumstances, have got so far
to tlie north-east that, in an ordinary season, he could not get
back again. And those who knew Franklin, know this—
that he would push on year after year so loiig as his provi-
sions lasted. JN^othiug could stop hifflc Ho was not the

IIUST TNTKLLIOENCE OF TIIEIU FATi:.

219

muntolook back iflio lu'licvcJ the tliin^j was ^^'ill possil)'.'.
Ill* mny have yot hcvond iho rcfti-h of our sran-hiiu.
parties, for 8ir Edward 13eleher lias not been able to ije.
far up, and we have not been able to ^et the investigation
completed. In speaking of Franklin, every one w ill feel
sorrow for his probable fate. My dear friend Franklin
was 00 years old when he left this eountry ; and I shall
never forget the zeal, the almost youthful enthusiasm with
"whieh that man entered upon that expedition. Lord
Haddington, who was then First Lord or the Admiralty,
sent forme, and said, 'I see, by looking at the navy list, that
Franklin is 60 years old : do you think we ought to let hira
goP' I said, 'He is a fitter man to go than any I know;
and if you don't let him go, the man will die of disappoint-
ment.' He did go, and lias been gone eight years ; and,
therefore, I leave to yourselves to consider what is the
probability of the life of that excellent and valuable man.
In the whole course of my experience I have never known
A man like Franklin. I do not say it because he is dead —
ii])on the principle de mortui nil nisi bonum ; but I never
knew a man in wiiom different qualities were so remarkably
combined. In my dear friend Franklin, with all the ten-
derness of heart of a simple child, there was all the great-
ness and magnanimity of a hero."

THE MYSTERY OF THEIR FATE SOLVED.

All the foregoing observations are now of little avail, for
detailed particulars of the fate of Sir John Franklin
and his fellow-voyagert have come to hand. What has been
all along surmised has really taken place, and the melan*
choly fact that most, if not all, perished from starvation,
has been revealed in terms too sad and dreadful to dwell
upon.

News has come at last, but the gloomiest predictions fall
far short of the liorrors of their actual fate. "We all were
forced to admit that the ships might have been wrecked —
that their crews might have fallen victims to the elements
—but slow, lingering starvation, protracted only by the
most horrible expedient to which man in his agony can
resort — these were miseries none of us had anticipated.

The substance of this sad intelligence is as follows : —
Dr. Bac, of the Hudson's Bay Company, and so well
known as an Arctic voyager, arrived in London, October
22nd, 1854, with the tidings that, whilst engaged in the
survey of Boothia, he fell in with a party of travellinc:
Esquimaux. These men informed him that another body

BBBB

eaoi

■ ', t

'2oO

moCfiiEss or APtCTic discover r.

Irjt »!
1 i ■ t ' ' i'

ili^

of tlioir countrymen, in the spring of iHoO, had seen a
party of white men making their way to tlie mainland.
Later on in the season these natives came to the spot where
the white men had fallen down to die. Thirty dead bodies
were found, and live (no doubt the first victims) lay buried
at a little distance. The bodies had warm clothinj,s and
.^uns and ammunition were scattered about ; but alas : <if
food there was none, and, sad to tell, traces were left that
seemed to provo the last survivors had been driven by tjio
atjonies of nun,t;er to feed on the bodies of their dead
companions.

The first impulse, on hearing such news, is to ask if aiiy-
thint; that could be done was left undone to rescue (mr
ijallant and ill-fated countrymen P It is a melancholy
satisfaction to get a neijative reply. One expedition, that
of Sir James Koss, might perhaps have helped iliem iu
18i8 and 1849 ; but its commanrli r judged it ijrudent to
return at a time when many experienced Arctic voyagers
thought he should have stayed.

Two exploring expeditions — that of Kennedj-, assisted
by Lieutenant Bellot, the young French sailor who pc-
rished so sadly but so nobly, and that of Dr. Rae, who
comes back with news at last, — had traversed and re-tra-
versed the immediate vicinity of the place where the bodies
were found by the Esquimaux. But even these expedi-
tions could not probaldy have found any survivors, though
the fate of the missing voyagers would have been earlier
set at rest.

Dr. Kae considered the tidings ho had learned of sulE-
cient importanceto justify him in at once coming to England,
without waiting to interrogate the Esquimaux who hail
actually seen the bodies. The truth of the destruction of
Sir John Franklin and his companions was, however, made
but too evident by the evidences of the fact which the na-
tives, seen by Dr. Kae, bore about them. They wen
decorated with bits of telescopes and coins, and with
spoons and other articles of silver plate, one of which had
Sir John Franklin's name upon it, and others the initials
of some of the ollicers of the expedition. Further detrils
are therefore but of sec^ondary importance, though the
world would W glad to hear of the preservation of books
or j)apers that might ea^t some light on this, the saddest
page of Arctic history.

The following is *Dr. llae's Report to the Secretary of
the Admiralty: —

Kepulse liny, .Tuly 2!), is,'>4.

Sni, — I liave the lionour to mention, lor the inrornmtiou of my

DK. KAE's official REPOUT.

251

had seen a
3 maiulaiul.

spot wlioi'o
dead bodies
i) lay buriinl
otliin^, and
but alas '. «»f
ere left that
rivwn by tho

their dead

D ask if any-
rescue oiii"
melancholy
?ditiou, that
)od ihem iu
b prudent to
tic voyagers

edy, assisted
ilor who pc-
)r. Rae, who
and re-tra-
re the bodies
hese expedi-
ivors, though
been earlier

rned of suiB-
; to England,
lUX who hail
estruetion of
)wever, made
hieh the na-

They weri
9, and with
of which had

the initials
rther details

though tho
;ion of books

tlie saddest

Secretary of

Illy '-»!», 1864.
•intitioa of my

Lords Commijsiomrr» of the Admiralty, that during my journey over
the ice and saow this sprinp, wth the view of complctlnp tlie survey
of tU? west shore of Hoothia, 1 met with Ksquiinaiix in rt-lly hay,
from oneof whom I learned that a party of" whitt.' men" (Kal)luunans)
hatl i»t'rished from want of food some distanet- to the westward, and
not far beyond a large river, containing many fall.^ and rapids, Sub-
te<iut'ntly, funlier purticu'ar«i were rcceivod, and a number of articlea
purehujied, which places the fate ol a portion, jl not of all oftlu- then
survivors of .Sir .John Franklin's long-lost party, beyond a doubt — a
fate as terrible as the imagination can concfivc.

The substance of the infornmtion obtained at various times and
from various sources, was as follows : —

In the spring, four winters past (spring Is^iO), a party of " white
men," amoimting to about forty, were set-n travelling houthwanl ovei
the ice, and dragging a boat with them, by some Ksipiimuux, who were
killing seals near the north shore of King Williant's Land, which id
a large island. None of the jtarty could speak the Esciuimaux lan-
guage intelligibly, but by signs the party were made to understand
that their ship, or shipji, had been crushed by ice, an<l that they were
now going to where they expected to tind deer to shoot. From the
appearance of the men, all of whom, except one ollicer, looked thin,
they were then supposed to be getting short of provisions, and pur-
chased a small seal from the natives. At a later date the same season,
but previous to t'le 'ireaking up of the ice, the bodies of some thirty
])ersuns were disccvercd on the continent, and tive on an island near
it, about a long day's journey to the N.W. of a large stream, which eaa
be no other than Back's Great Fish IMver (named by the Ksquinmux
Doot-ko-hi-calik), as its description, and that of the low shore in the
neighbourhood of Point Ogle and Montreal Island, agree exactly
with that of S5r (jeorge Back.* Some of the bodies hail been buried
(probably those of the tirst victims of famine), some were in a tent or
tents, others under the boat, which had been turned over to form a
shelter, and several lay scattered about in diiierent dirertions. <Jf
those found on tlu; island, one was supiwsed to have been an oflicer, as
he had a telescope strapped over liis shoulders, and his double-biir-
relled gun lay underneath him.

From the mutilated state of many of the corpses, and the contents
of ti»e kettles, it is evident that our wretched countrymen had been
driven to the last resource— cannibalism— -as a means of prolonging
ixi.4tcuce.

There appeared to have been an abundant stork of ammunition, as
tiic powder was empti^'d in a heap on the ground ',)y the natives out of
the keg.-^ or ca.>«es containing it ; and a ([uantity of ball and shot was
found beh.w high-water mark, having probaldy been left ot the ice
close to the beach. There must have been a number of watches, com-
passes, telescojjes, guns (several double-barrelled), &c,, all of which
appear to have been broken up, as I saw pieces of those different
articles with the Ksquimaux. together with somo silver spocms and
forks. I purchased as many as 1 could get. A list of the most im-
portant of these I enclose, with a rough sketch of the crests and initials

• This locp.iity will be fouu-i described by Mr. ."^imp^on, aiii.
page liiii.— !'. L. S.

"TF

252

pnOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOTEKT.

1:;

. I )

of the forks nnd spoons. The articles thcuisclvc!* shall ho han^lod
over to the Secretary of the Hudson's liny Company on iny arrival in
London.

None of the Esquimaux with whom I conversed had seen tlie
" whites," nor had they ever been at the place where the boflii-s were
found, but had their information from those who had been there, and
who had seen the party when travelling,

I offer no apology for taking the liberty of addressing you, as I do
so fVom a belief that their lordships would be desirous of being put in
possession, at us early a date as possible, of any tidings, however
meagre and unexpectedly obtained, regarding this painfully interesting
subject.

I may add, that by means of our guns and nets, we obtained nn
ample supply of provisions last autumn, and my small party passed the
winter in snow houses in comparative comfort, the skins of the deer .shot
affording abundant warm clothing and bedding. My spring journey
was a failure, in consequence of an accumulation of obstacles, several
of which my former experience in Arctic travelling had not taught me
to expect.— I have, &c„ John Kak, M,D,,

Commanding Hudson's Day Company's Arctic Expedition.

The following are extracts from Dr. Eae's journal :—

On the morning of the 2(»th we were met by a very intelligent
Esquimaux, driving a dog-sledge laden with mu8k-o.v beef. This man
at once consented to accompany us two days' journey, and in a few
minutes had deposited his load on the snow, and was ready to join us.
Having explained to him my object, he said that the road by which he
had come was the best for us, and, having lightened tlie men's sledges,
we travelled with more facility. We were now joined by another of
tlie natives, who had been absent seal-hunting yesterday, but, being
an.xious to sec us, had visited our snow house early this moniing, and
then followed up our track. This man was very communicative, and
on putting to him the usual questions as to his having seen " white
man" before, or any ships or boats, he replied in the negative ; but said
that a party of" Kablounans" had died of starvation a long distance to
the west of where we then were, and beyond a large river. He stated
that he did not know the exact place, that lie uvver had been there,
and that he could not accompany us so far.

He also adds :

From what I could learn, there is no reason to suspect that any
rioleiice had been offered to Mie suflcrers by the natives.

List ot articles purcliased from the Esquimaux, said to have been
obtained at the place where the bodies ol the persons reported to have
died of famine were found, vr/..: — " 1 sliver table fork— crest, an ani-
mal's head, with wings extended above; a silver table forks— crest, a
bird with wings extended ; 1 silver table 8|)oon — crest, with initials
" J .R,1\I,C," (Captain Crozier, Terror); 1 silver table spoon and I fork
— Kircst, bird with luure! branch in mouth, motto, " Sjx'vo mdiora ;"
1 silver table si)oon, 1 loa spoon, 1 dessert fork — crest, a fish's head
looking upw^rtls. with \mwv\ branches on each side; 1 silver table fork
— iniiijiN, "H.D, .^. U," (Harry I). S. Goodsir, assistant-surgeon,
Enlms) ; 1 silver table fork — initials," A. M'D." (Alexander M' Donald.

KELICS BnOUGHT HOME BY BR. MAE.

253

lall bo handod
my arrival in

had seen tlio
he b<Kli<'9 were
been there, and

J you, as I tlo
ii being put in
din^s, howi'ViT
'ully intercitiug

vc obtained an
)ai'ty passi'd the
of the deer shot
Hpring juurney
)stacles, i^eviiiil
i not tauglit lue

ctio Expedition.

journal :—

very intelligent

jeef. This man

y, and in a lew

eady to join us.

ad by which he

je men's sledges,

by another of

ay, but, being

morning, and

iiunieative , and

seen " wliite

;ative ; but said

ong distance to

vvr. He stated

u;d been there,

pect tliat any

to have been
ported to have
—crest, an ani-
forks — crest, a
with initials
>oon and 1 fork
pro mdivra ;"

, a fish's head

Iver table fork
(istant -surgeon,

der M' Donald,

assistant-surgeon. Terror) ; 1 ailver table fork— initials, •• G. A. JI."
(Gillies A. Macbean, second-master, Terror) ; 1 silver table fork —
initials, • J. T. ;" 1 silver dessert spoon — initials, ' J. S. 1'." (.lohn S.
Peddie, surgeon, Erebus) ; 1 round silver plate, engraved, '* Sir .loha
Franklin. K.C.B. ;" a star or order, with motto,'* J^'ec asperate rniU,
G. It. III., 3IDCCCXV."

Also a number of other articles with no marks by which they could
be recognised, but which will be handed over with those above-named
to the ijccretary of the Hod. Uudsou's liay Company.

John Rae, M.D.

In addition, and by way of further explanation to the
foregoing observations, I may state that a dolphin's head,
between wings, is the crest of the family of Sergeant ; and
the silver table forks may therefore have belonged to Mr.
liobert O. Sergeant, mate of the Erebus. A dove with the
olive ])ranch, and motto, " Spero meliora," is the ereat of the
family of Fairholme, of Greenhill. The motto, •* iVet' aspera
tetrent,'* is that of the Guelphic order, whieh had been be-
stowed upon Sir John Franklin, who was a K.C.H., and
not a K.C.B. The crest, a conger eel's head between two
eprigs (or a doluhin's head, as it is sometimes portrayed),
belongs to the !brankiin family. Dr. Pcddio was surgeon
of the Terror, and not of the Erchus.

The articles of plate identified would seem then to have
belonged to Sir John Franklin, Lieutenant Fairholme,
Mr. Goodsir, and Mr. Sergeant of the Erchus, and to
Captain Crozier, Mr. M'Donald, and Mr. Peddie, of the
Terror. The table fork marked " J. T." it is dillicult to
appropriate to any one. The only persons in the expedi-
tion with these initials were James Thompson, gunner,
and John Torrington, leading stoker, both c f the Terror;
but these were not likely to have artielcij of r'-ite. The
latter died, and was buried at Beechey Ipl»nd. i'iie ii^'tials
may have been mistaken for those of Lieutenan\ i) oiiil^^' 'ng,
of the Terror. Although the specified artirl^ •, evidently ot»eo
belonged to the above-named officers, it( mnot be adir "tted
that they account clearly for their fate, howc'i ♦'/ strong the
presumption may be, for it is just possible t^at the silver
may have been pilfered from tlie abauvoiied and ice-
imprisoned ships, or exchanged with the .^^squimaiUT for
articles of food.

On the very natural supposition that parties pressed for
food, and among peaceable Estiuimaux, would m her
divide than unite, it cannot be aflirmed that the fatt or ail
tiic gallant bund of Arctic explorers is definitely asetr-
taiued.

According to the account given by the E8([uiniaux to
Dr. Eae, a party of white men, some forty in num-

"91

■ ! il

25-1

PEOOHESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

ber, "wcrc first aeon in tlio spring of 1850, travellinrj
south, on the iiortk sliore of King William's Land. It was
a little later in the same season that the bodies of some
thirty of the crew of the expedition are said to have been
discovered on the continent near Back's Kiver, only twelve
days' journey from one of the Hudson's Bay Company's
outposts. This throws a degree of suspicion on the truth
of tiie Esquimaux story. Considering the short space of
time that elapsed, and from the account of the Esquimaux
themselves, tnat thc^ men on King William's Lana had it
in their power to kill seals if greatly pressed with hunger,
I can scarcely believe that they were the same party which
died of starvation, and w hoso remains were subsequently
discovered. The probability is, that, in separate parties,
they endeavoured to make their way over those frozen,
inhos])itable deserts, towards the American coast, which
was some three hundred miles from the place at which
they abandoned their ships. One party it would seem has
succumbed to famine and fatigue, and alter such a long lapse
of time it wr^uld be a vain hope indeed to suppose that the
others have fared better.

The following letter, addressed to *' The Times,"
answers a few doubts that had been suggested :—

I'l-f?

J i

Sir, — The question has frequently lieon ns'kcd of me, " How can I
account for so few of the unfortunate party fonniiig tlic expedition
under Sir Jolin Franklin being scon by the Esquinsaux, and for all
these being found dead at or near one spot?"

It is n»y duty, as well a.s my desire, to give every information on
this distressing subject, not only to the n-latives and friends of the lost
men, but also tr) the public at large, and the best me«liuni of doing so
is through the columns of your " far and Mide " spread journal, should
you consider the following remarks worthy of a i»lace therein : —

As I have not the JUue U(K)ks on the subject of Arctic discovery
l)y me, I may make some error in my statements ; but, as far as my
memory »erves me, the last news we had from Sir Jolm Franklin, in
18-15, was that he had jjrovisions for three, or somewhat more than
three years, which he could make last for four. Again, the captain of a
•whaler, whose name I forget, says that " the crews of the Ertbus and
Terror, when in I^alhn's liay, on their i)a8.-age westward, were killing
ami suiting down great numbers of waterfowl, us a resource in case ot
necessity."

The information obtained by me from the Esquimaux (by a mode of
questioning which tliey understood, and in whicii they were induced
to explain the different places wliere they had passed the winter sea*ons
Binee the year 1819) was, I consider, i)erfectly conclusive as to the spring
of l.sjju being the period of the nieluncholy cutastrojilie to which
I refer. This will make the time elapr-fed since Sir ,1. Franklin ^\aa
last seen in UaiM'a liay until the epriug, ItfOO, very nearly five
years.

DE. RAi: S EXPLAXATION^.

, travellins
and. It was
ies of some
have been
only twelve

Company's
on the truth
ort space of

Esquimaux
Lana had it
vith huni;er,

paiiy which
lubsequently
irato parties,
hose frozen,
coast, which
ce at which
iild seem has
ii a Ions lapse
pose that the

^hc Times,"

lie, •• How can I
the oxpeililion
IX, anil for all

nl'ormatiou on
\n\i of the losl
uni of (loiujf so
ournal, should
ercln : —
rctlc discovery
, as far as my
\i\ Franklin, in
hat more than
je captain of a
he Enbtt.t and
I, were killing
jurce in case ol

K (by a mode of
were induced
winter nea-ons
as to the s^pring
rojihe to which
J. Iranklin nas
cry nearly &"«

Supposing that the proviMons carried from Liiglaiid by the expedi-
tion did last four year? (by the end of wliicli I liave no doutit the
crews of the ve.^sels would be much reduced in numbers, ami
those that survived greatly debilitated), the party would be wliolly
thrown on the greasy, rancid, salted waterfowl, wiiich I believi- mos-t
persona will agree with me in thinking would increasjc the fatality of
scurvy, if it already existed, or cause that dread disease if it had not
previously made its appearance.

This may account rationally for so few white men having been peen
by the natives.

Again, *• as to all the dead being found at or near the same place."

Nothing is more natural or more easily accounted for by a
periion of experience in the Arctic Seas, and wliose mind is properly
constructed.

Let us for a moment picture to ourselves a party of gallant men
reduced by want, and perhaps disease, to grout extremity, pushing
their way to the mouth of a large river, such as the Hack, the iet- on
wliich they expected would break up in a short time and permit them
to embark in tlieir boat. Having arrived near such river the strength
of some had failed, so that they could not travel even when un-
attached to tlie sledg»-, and the others were unable to drag them.
\Vhat step would brave men take in such a fUlficulty ? My reply
would be^-cling together — stop, and let the stronger endeavour to
kill game for the supjwrt of themselves and the weaker until the ice
broke up, then embark, turn by turn, in the boat, and thua travel with
mucii greater ease and speed than when on foot.

The Ksipnmaux whom 1 saw at I'elly Jiay preceded me to RepuUe
Bay, and, when I returned, were living in the most friendly terms with
the three men left in charge of onr property there. None of these
men understtKxl a wor'i of the Ks({uinuiux language, yet 1 was
inlWtned by them, before I had communicated any of my news, that
they believed a party of wldte men had died of starvation far to
the westward, and that lliey Jiad been redi.ced to a very dreadful
alternative before death. On my asking my informants how they
had discovered thid, tht-y replied, by tl)e signs made them by the
natives.

f may add, in support of what I have already stated regarding mea
carrying with them useles>< articles on having to abandon tlieir ship in
the .\rctic .*^ea. tliat I have Ancc h arnt iVom <he best authority — Sir
John KoK- . imsejf— that in elfecting Jii- wond^.-rftd €■ cape, after a
three years' detention in I'rince liegent's Inki, he distributed liij«
silver plate among tlie men, rath;T than leave it behind, and thus
brought ntobt of it to Kngland with him.

At the opening meeting of the Eoyal Geographical
Society for the Session, November 13tn, 18o4', Dr. Kae
ri-ad a paper descriptive of his last journey, and exhibited
the relu » he had brought home, which excited coasider-
a])le interest in a very large audience.

In replv to a numbrr of (juestions.

Dr. Kae said that he did not himself speak the language
beyond a very few words : the facts descril)ed by the
l']s(|uiinaiix were interpreted to him by a native interpreter
who accompanied the expe-Utiou. This man i=poke the

1^ .

1-1 ■

ijn

250

PEOGliESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

English language as fluently as he (Dr. Rae) did, and he
had reason to believe that he was trustworthy. The

{jerson who recommended him, and whom he (Dr. liav)
lad known for years, told him that this interpreter wus
never a rogue unless when he was hungry. (A laugh.) In
this case the man had no interest to deceive, and if an
Esquimaux attempted to impose an untruth upon you it
was easy to detect him by cross-questioning. Among the
relics found were a portion of the silver-plate belonging
both to Sir John FrankHii and Captain Crozier, and this
and the statements made by the JiiSciuimaux lie thought
conclusive as to tlie fate of tlie party. It was the general
opinion that if the party divided, as was most probable,
one sliip'a company would take one direction and the other
anotlier. Now, tliere were only two routes tliat could be
taken — the one by Lancaster Sound, and the other by the
Back Hiver, and it was in the immediate vicinity of the
33a('k Hiver that the remains were f<»und.

Dr. Scoresby inquired whether Dr. Hno had been
enabled to form any ojjinion from what had been connnu-
nicatcd by the Ksqumiaux, as to the period of the year when
tlie parly of white men was seen in a boat, and when they
obtained supi)liea from the Esquimaux.

Dr. line replied that it was about the season of the year
when the E8(|uiniau>: went down to hunt seals, which
was the end of April, or the beginning of May. It was
about a month after this tliat the bodies were found after
the navigation liad be^an to open, but before the ice had
broken up. The Esipiimaux, like all savage people, calcu-
lated time by moons. Tliey had the bear moon, the lish
moon, tlu' fon 1 moon, and tlie seal moon ; and it was after
the seal moon.

Dr Hcoreslu'. — In wliat year was that P

Dr. Rno replied that he had very clearly ascertained by
cvoss-(pi('8tioning the Esijuisnaux tliat it waa in the year
1850; and jillhoiigh the inr<>rnrdtion came to liim second-
hand, it was in some rej»pects better than if it were first-
hand. If it iu;d c mie firrtt-hand from the Esquimaux wiio
fell in with thv* party of JvMropeans, they might have had
an interest ir. misleading, beiause they might suppose that
the persons (iuc«tioning tliem desired to deprive them (»f
the articles they had taken from the pirsons v;ho had
perished, but the party who gave the inft^riiuition had no
such interest, and besides, they were friendly to the white
men.

Dr. Seoresby. — Is it your improFsion that it wa** near to
the Back liiver the caianuty happened 't

DISCUSSION AT T7i^ OEOCKArillCAL SOCIETY. 257

it vra«' near to

Dr. 1^10. — Y.«s. it wns disiinrtly dfsrribod by the
Esiiuiniaux. Tlioy dcscribt'd the numbLM* of rivor.-^ I
should linv'» to cross to m^i to it, uiul tlu-y stated llwil tlio
phico where tlie bodies were found wns to tiie west of the
river wliero tliere were no liills, and the only jinit that
answers that description is the gi'ound near the Back
Eiver.

Dr. Seoresby expressed a doubt whelher they had yet
the means befi)ro tnem to come to n eonelusion as to tlio
fate of r ranklin and his companions. It had been assumed
by the newspapers that the ships of the expedition had
been lost, but they bad no evidence of that fact. Dr. Kae
had given no information as to any timber or remains
of ships being found in the possession of the Esquimaux.
The presumption therefore was, that the ships were still in
existence ; and that hypothesis was by no means incon-
sistent with the finding part of the crew starved to death
as described. It was natural for Sir John Franklin and
his party, finding his ships frozen in and having no means
of extricating them, to consider what should be done ; the
probability was that they had left their vessels and pro-
ceeded inland — some womd probably take one route, some
another — some might have remained in the ship. He
thought it possible that some of these brave men yet
survived. It was natural, he thought, that Sir J. Franklin
would make across for the American coast.

Colonel Sabine did not think Franklin had gone up the
Wellington Channel, but rather, in the execution of hia
orders, he went by Cape Walker, and that way to the
Bouth-west coast of America, and that there he got involved
in the ice.

Captain Kellett, 11. N., considered it entirely conjectural
where Franklin met with the disaster which the relics ob-
taim^d by Dr. Eae showed had befallen him. He agreed
with Dr. Scoresby that there was a possibility of some of
the parties being still in existence, and he agreed with Sir
John Koss that tluMvestern coast of Ikflin's Bay should be
explored on towards the territories ot the Hudson's Bay
Company. It was clear they had got the remains now
witlun a small distance, for the exploration of which
a single season would be suificient.

Captain M'Clure, K.N , concurred in the propriety cf
searching the west coast of Baffin's Bay, but considered
the evidence of Dr. Kae almost conclusive, and saw no
chance of Sir John Franklin's party having escaped.

Commander Osborn protested against Sir John Frankim
being accused of turning back from his work and aban-

frr

yki

mi-

2o8

pnonnKss of abctic dtscoveiiy.

doning tlio duty on which he had been sent. It was nov;
said, search for him in Davis's Straits or BalHn's Bay ;
those jjlaees liad been open to search every year since the
expedition saikvl. He believed Sir John Franklin went
to the S.W. and there perished. Ho was coniident that
Franklin had obeyed his orders to the letter, and that
he ])rocccded by way of Cape AValker, but that findini?
the ice too heavy to make head against, he went down
Peel Sound (a line open channel), and in that direction he
believed the other bodies would be found.

Dr. Kae said that he had picked up two pieces of timber
in Victoria Straits — one a boat's mast, and the other
a block, having a hole in it for a chain. He thought
it would bo well to send out ships as .suggested, but there
was little possibility of persons wintering in that locality
for any length of time. In the place where Sir John
Franklin and his party were supposed to be, it was very
ditlicult to find game — especially by men weakened by
scurv}'^ and long hardship. During the three years tliat
Sir John Ross wintered there he only killed three deer
and one musk cattle. He should be the last man to
advise the abandonment of all hope— >though he belieTed
there was none.

Mr. P. L. Simmonds suggested that the timber spoken of
aught have come from Sir John Franklin's vessels whilst
wintering off the west coast of North Somerset.

Captain Inglelield, ll.N., recommended that Back River
and Repulse Bay should be explored, the latter to the
ext ent of about three hundred miles from where the bodies
had been found. A vessel leaving England next spring
might reach Chesterfield Inlet and Re])ulse Bay and
return the same year ; another vessel might be sent round
by Beechey Island and Peel's Sound.

We are as yet in possession of the mere fact of our
iiDhn])py countrymen having met their end from the
effects of famine — the same mystery whi/h has hitherto
concealed them and all the proceedings of that unfortunate
expedition is hniiging over it still. Did tlioy ever pene-
trate as far as the Arctic ice at tlic head of tlie Welling-
ton Ciianncl, from whence Sir Edward Belcher has just
relumed F How long did they stay at Beechey Island F
When did they abandon their ships? All this is yet
uncertain, nnd are yet severally points for the speculation
«jj4 opinion, althop.ijjh I'lev might all be re e-.iied by papers
and notes, wiiicJi would in all prob.-bility bo ijund at the
scene of their last sulh rings. ±Jul in the absence of suf^
JaforLiation, and for w hiuh we must .long wait, if ever w c

ESQUIMAUX BKPOItTS.

2.'')0

[t was nov;
(tin's Bay;
ir since tno
mklin went
liidcnt that
r, and that
liat finding
went down
direction he

es of thnber
I the other
He thought
d, but there
:hat locaUty
pe Sir John
, it was very
reakencd by
i years tliat
d three deer
last man to
the believed

er spoken of

cbscIb whilst

Back River

atter to the

e the bodies

next spring

Ise Bay and

|c sent round

fact of our

from the

Ihas hithorto

unfortunate

' c\vr wnt-

hi' WeUing-

llicr has just

'hey IslaudJ'

tills is yet

s])oculatioii

m1 by ])ap('rs

llbund at the

'nee of siu''

, if ever V c

do got it, Ihoro i8 sonu* coucunvnt testimony which must
not lu' s!iu:lit('<l, ft })ortioii of mIiIHi J (KhIucc iVoni the
parli.unent.'irv ])ni)crs (Arctic IJIuc Books) and from a
recent nunil)er <».''the Naut'nutf Manazinc.

It isstrangi' how near relief must hav*> l)een in various
quarters to tiio uufortutuite sufl'erera at diderent times.
\\\ the 8i)rin}.'' and sumuuT of IS 17, Dr. jlae and a party of
iive Avere sun'eyiug tlie coast from Lord Mayor's Bay in
the Gulf of Boothia round Committee Bay (see ante, juige
137-Mt).) In lSi8 Sir Jamea lioss wintered at Port J^eo-
])old, and traversed on foot the northern and wee«tern
nhorea of North Sonu»i*flet. In liSoO, Captain Austin's
expedition was wintering at Grillitli and Cornwallis Islands,
and ])artie8 explored Austin Island and the coasts about
Cape Walker. Captain Forsyth, in the Prince AUx rt^
reached to Fury Point in August, 1S5(), but was unable
to land or to penetrate to the head of Kegent Iidet, from
the obstructions of the ice.

AVhether in their 8hi])s or in boats, Franklin's ])arty aro
supposed, for good reasons, to have passed southward on
the western side of North Somerset. But when !" As Sir
James Boss travelled down the west shore of North
Somerset and returned northward in June, 181'J, the ])arty
must have passed beyond liis horizon to the westward at
tliat time, or down the same coast as he did, before, or
after he was there. Dr. Bae's statement inclines one to
the belief that it must have been after, as "four seasons
ago" would bring the event to the spring of isrio. Tlier*
is another ])oint of interesting coincidence also in the report
brought home in Octol^er, IS 11), bv Ca)»tain Parker, of
the Triu'love, given at page 70 oi' the *' J*ai)ers and Cor-
respondence relative to the Arctic Kxi)editiou under Sir
John Franklin," (No. 107, Session iSoO.)

Some Esquimaux had communicated to the whalers in
Pond's Bay the fact that two shii)s had been frozen up for
lour seasons on the west side or Jvv'gent's Inlet, and that
two were on tlu' east side, which had been one season in
the ico. The rude sketch made by the I'^squimaux showed
two ships with their to])niasts down, and two witli th"m
U]), corresponding to the sliijis of Franklin and lioss.
There were one or two points in which there was evidently
?otiU' misconception, such as the eoninuuiication beiwceii
them thrtt had becTi represented, but whicli eertainly
had not taken place. The re])ort, however, goes far to ;<how
that the ships of Franklin were on one side of North
SonriLrsel and those of Sir James Ross on f!ie other: thus
both the Estiuimaux accounts coincide in slaihig Franklin'^

-fp*

2C0

ruooR£S8 or arctic Discovr.uv.

■ -•■ I

flliipH or ]mrty <" lu' <m> the wrai^-rn sWo of Nortli Soinpr-
Hct. one ill ISl!), :iii.l tho otluT in ISoO. AVliat bo';nin' of
thoni lu'fwcon the smninrr of IslO, wlien wf know they
Avnv jit Hcrclu'y ]slimtl, and Au;;iist, IHoO, when wc kuo\v
lliev Imd loft it, is still a iiivsttTy.

in llic aI)H('nc(»of any full or drtniloil information, it may
he wi'U to collect and conncet tlio scattered links of iid'oi*.
mation Mhicli may a])pear to tlirw any further liijht on
the i'ate of the ahipw and exjjlorers. It should bo renicm-
bored that in August, 1H50, three maleKs(|uimjinxconinni-
nicated at Cauo York, on the eastern coast of l^illin's JJay,
•\\ ith the people of H.M.S. lulrrpiil, and boats' crews of tho
I'rinrc Aihcvt and Sir John llosa's yacht Fdij". The pur-
port of their statement was to the followin:;' ellbct: —

•* That in the winter of IS !(>, when the snow waa fallinjf,
two ships were broken l)y tho ice, u ijood way off, in tho
direction of C'ai)o Dudley J)i;,'g8, and afterwards burned by
a fierce a!id numerous tribe of natives.

" They asserted that the ships were not wlialers — and
that epn\ilottes wore worn by some of the white men.

"That a part of the crews were drowned; that tlio re-
mainder were some time in huts, or tents, ajmrt from tho
natives; that they had «j[uns, but no balls; were in a weak
and oxhansted condition, and were subsequently killed by
tho natives with darts or arrows."

At ilie tinu', this statement was considered highly im-
probable: but the subsequent accounts received now add
colour to the truth of i)art, at least, of this report. In
the evidence taken before the Arct ic Committee, this matter
was in(|uired into, and it appeared that Adam ]Jeck, in a
conversation ho had av ith Erasmus York, another Esqui-
maux, stated that — *' Jn IHIG, two ships, with three masts,
■went from our land to Onjanak; they arrived safely, but
the men are dead. Two shijis were enc<»mpassed by tho
ice; otherwise they could not do. Their provisions were
consumed. The men went to them ; it is said they aro
dead." licck stated he lieard this from the natives at
Cape York.

In the year 1810 (it is added), when tlio ico bofjan to
break, they set sail, aiid went toOmanak, and stayed tliero
during the winter, because they could not proceed oii
account of the i(H\

Dr. liae, in his previous survey of the Arctic shores,
picked u]), on the 20th August, 1851, a piece of pine wood,
which excited much interest. In appearance it resembled
the butt end of a lhi,<;-stall', and was live feet nine inches iu
length. It had a cui-ious mark, apparently stamped upon it,

OPINIOXS AND PROBABILITIES.

201

sorUi Soinor-
lat bocanio of
» know tlioy
hoii ue know

1 at ion. it inay
iuktt <»f int'or-
iher li^lit on
1(1 bo rcinom-
iniiii\coiiiinu«
Balliiis JJay,
I* crow s of tlio
l.r. The pur-
'irect:—
w was fallin^^
•ay oir, ill tlio
ptls buruod by

whalers — and
lite men.

that tlie rc-
>art from the
ere in a "vveak
itly killed by

pd highly im-
ived now add
s report. In
^e, this matter
,m Ik'ek, in a
lother Esqui-
I tiireo masts,
I'd safely, but
)nsse«l by tho
ov is ions were
.said thev aro
le natives at

ico bojjan to

stayed t hero

; proceed ou

rctic shores,
)t' pine wood,
it resembled
ine inches iu
uped upon it,

and to it was attnohrd a T>icre of white line, fastened by two
co))per tacks, both of wnich had the Government mark of
the " broad arrow" upon them. About a mile further on, a
piece of wood, which proved to be oak, was discovered on
tho water, but touching upon tho beacli. It was about three
feet ei^ht inches loni;, and Dr. Kne supposed it to be a
stanchion. Dr. Kae assumed from tho circumstance of tho
Hood tide cominj; from the north, along the east shore of
Victoria Island, that there was a water chnnnel dividing
that i<)land from North Somerset, and this was subsc-
quently ])roved by more recent explorers to be tlu^ case.
Through Ommanney Inlet, or Peel Sound, as it has sinco
been named, therefore these pieces of drift wood must have
come.

Private letters received from Captain ColUnson state that
vp^hcn his ship, tlio Enterprise, vas in Cambridge 13:iy, a
portion of a companion doo ith the Queeu's arms
stamped upon it, was picked up, which, it is supposed,
belonged to tho Erebus or Terror.

In 1852, Mr. Kennedy discovered a passage through
Brentford Bay into Victoria Strait ; crossed it, and travel-
led over Prineo of "Wales Land to the bight of Om-
manney Bay, in \(%) degrees west. Thence ho proceeded
up to Ca])e Walker, and returned to his ship in Batty
Bay, Regent Inlet, via Port Leopold, without linding
any traces of the missing expedition, although ho must
have crossed the probable route of the retreating party to
tho continent. He then observed, in a letter to Captain
Pullen of tho North Star, dated Beechcy Island, 20th
August, 1852:— "There is a strong probability that Sip
John Franklin may have been carried througli ono of those
ehunucls that may be supposed to exist between Om-
manney Inlet and Victoria Strait." The first journey made
by Mr. Kennedy and Lieut. Bellot, with their party, was
in mid winter, when, in the abtU'nce of the sun, they had
to travel by moonlight, and *»leep in snow houses. In
March (1852) Mr. Kennedy and his party spent six hours
in the examination of Fury Beach, and the store of pro-
visions, &c., left there by Lieut. Bobinson, of Sir James
-Ross's expedition in 1819, and he satisfied himself that no
human footsteps had been there since.

Sir John Franklin, havini; iil»:;adoHcd liis ships snme-
wlure to tho Houth-east or south-west of Ca))0 Walker,
wlieu his jn'ovisions were ni\irly oxliaust<>d, probably
made for tho Isthmus of Boothin. in which animal
life was known, in some season?, to abound ; but llieir
Btreagth and supplies then became oxuausted, and their

^%^^^'\-

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

■^■2.8

1.1

lit

L25

122

HiotDgrsfdiic

Sdences

Corporalion

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSM

(716) •72-4S0a

\lll

i\ '

262

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOTERT.

arty decreased by famine. Two persons attached to
iii3 expedition, Mr. Blankey, tlie ice-master of the Terror,
and Mr. M'Donald, the assistant-surgeon of the same
vessel, were well accjuainted with the Gulf of Boothia, the
former having been there with Sir John Boss in the Victory,
and the latter having made several voyages in whaling
vessels, and being acquainted with the p£u*ts lying between
Regent Inlet and Davis's Straits. For an account of the
resources of Boothia, and the neighbourhood of B«egent
Inlet, &c., and its capabilities for sustaining life, I may refer
to previous remarks at pages 138 and 139, and 241. The plan
for reaching and searching Sir James Boss's and Simpson'if
Straits from the south is also pointed out at page 181.

In a letter from Sir James C. Boss, in 1851, he states
that the season of 1846 was the most severe that has been
known for many years ; none of the whale ships attained a
higher latitude tiian 74° on the east., and 68° on the west
side of Baffin's Bay, which bay was completely choked with
heavy ice. Sir John Franklin's ez{)edition had made but a
small advance to the westward during the more favourable
•eason of 1846 ; and it must have been a source of deep
disappointment to them to have wintered so far short of
their expectations. Taking into consideration the cha-
racter of the following seasons, it appears by no means im-
probable that the ships were not released from their winter
quarters imtil too late a period for them to make any fur-
tner progress to the westward, the barriers of ice in that
direction, as well as that across the WeUington Channel^
probablv not breaking up at all that seastm, as they
assuredly did not either in 1848 or 1849.

It was not therefore till the close of 1846, or early in
1847, that the ships were hberated. Probably they may
have got embayed in some of the straits and inlets running
from Melville Sound southward to the Continent, in which
the EnterpHse and Investigator have drifted about hope-
lessly with the currents. But where they left their ships
it is impossible, in the absence of any details, to conjec-
ture. It appears to have been about three years longer
before they reached the continent; and the party were
evidently endeavouring to make their way by the Great
Fish Eiver to Fort ChurchiU, on Hudson's Bay.

A singular feature in the ease is, that while Dr. Eae hns
visited so many quarters of the American coasts within the
last five years — Repulse Bay, Committee Bay, and the shores
of WoUaston Island — and while so many searching expedi-
tions along the continent, and so many ships should have
been wintering in the bays and inlets of the Arctic seas.

attached to
i" the Terror,
of the same
Boothia, the
itho Victory f
a in whaling
jring between
icount of the
)d of Regent
e, I may refer
541. The plan
,nd Simpson's
page 181.
51, he states
that has been
ips attained a
' on the west
Y choked with
A made but a
)re favourable
)urce of deep
) far short of
tion the cha-
no means im-
n their winter
(lake any fur-
)f ice in that
'ton Channelt
8cai, as they

>, or early in
)ly they may
nlets running
lent, in which
about hcpe-
ft their ships
Is, to coujec-
years longer
[Q party were
by the Great
^ay.

3 Dr. Eae has
sta within the
and the shores
•ching expedi-
5 should have
e Arctic seas.

SHIPS SEEN FLOATING TO SEA.

2G3

with the knowledge of how widely that littoral people, the
Esquimaux, travel, no previous tidings of any of Franklin's
parties should have become known.

In 1848, Dr. Richardson, in his searching journey be-
tween the Coppermine and Mackenzie rivers, met largo
parties of Esquimaux on the coast, 300 at Point Encounter,
and lesser numbers at most of the headlands, on the look-
out for whales.

In making for the Great Fish River, the retreating
party were evidently desirous of avoiding the scene of
Franklin's former friglitful sufferings in ascending the
Coppermine River.

Doubts were long expressed as to the truth of the
vessels seen upon an iceberg ; but it seems now very pos-
sible that these may have been Franklin's abandoned ships.

Mr. A. G. Findlay, in a paper read at the last meeting of
the British Association at Liverpool, " On Arctic Currents,"
expressed his belief in the truth of the story of the two
three masted vessels seen floating on the ice at the North
edge of Newfoundland, on the 26th of April, 1851, by the
JRenovation. One of these ships was represented to be about
500 tons, the other 350 tons, and both had their top-
masts struck and yards down, and all made snug, and
to all appearance had passed the winter together. It
had been ur^ed tliat Sir John Franklin would not
abandon his ships; that they could not float uninterruptedly
such a distance ; that they would have been seen by the
sealers on the Labrador coast ; that the account in the
log differed materially from the verbal statement ; that
they were not real snips, «fec. j while others set down
the story as a pure invention. "Well, they had to combat
these statements, and against them were the consistent
statements of the whole crew as well as of Mr. Simpson,
the passenger.

As to the possibility of the two ships floating at such a
distance in company with each other, there never was the
slightest doubt of the southern set out of Baffin's Bay and
Davis's Straits, and the quantity of ice moving was very
great. It was the prevailing opinion of Arctic voyagers
that Sir John Franklin went up the Wellington Channel
in the early spring of 1816. Supposing that he did so,
and found open water, and could proceed for five hundred
miles, and then became imbedded in the pack, the ships
would drift back to the Wellington Channel toward
the north const of Greenland, or he might have taken a
second season; or, perhaps, he became imbedded, and
being impatient of ueing so detained for three or four

[^
ij^

■ !

ill

vl!

U;i

■ ' t i : ; ■

UVAii

i ■

264

PROGBESS or AECTIC DISCOVERT.

years, liad deserted the ships, as in the case of the
Investigator, which vessel, it might be inferred, would
safely drift out in the course of time without any human
aid.

The depositions of Mr. Coward the captain, Mr. W.
Simpson, the mate of the Renovation^ and Mr. Joseph
Lynch, passenger, were very strong, and additional
confirmatory evidence was obtained from the mate of a
Mecklenburg brig the Doctor Kneiss, who, on his arrival
at New York in May, 1851, stated that he had met with a
great deal of ice on the banks, and that he had also seen
two vessels abandoned and water-logged.

The possibility of ships so drifting is proved by the case
of Sir James Boss's ships, which were carried bodily with
the ice at the rate of eight miles a day through Lancaster
Sound ; Captain Back's ship, which was drifted off South-
ampton Island in 1837, and lately the case of the Grinnell
phips, which were carried right out of Lancaster Sound into
Davis's Straits seated on an iceberg.

I have already alluded, at page 154, to the difficulty
Sir John Boss's party found in travelling over ice after
abandoning their ships, although by proper arrangements
and sub-division of labour, with fight sledges, tne task
has subsequently been rendered easy to strong and healthy
tnen. Accidents among ice are selaom so sudden but that
boats, clothes, and provisions can be saved. I may refer
the reader back for the opinions of the leading Arctic
voyagers, to former pages, to Captain Beechey's remarks,
pages 156 and 190, and Dr. Bichardson's, page 157. Dr.
King stated long ago that it was about Victoria or Wol-
laston's Land we might expect to find the expedition
wrecked, whence they would make in their boats for the
western land of North Somerset, if that land should not be
too far distant (ante, pp. 160 and 161). Again, at p. 167,
he points out particularly the Great Fish Biver as the
source for relief. SirE. !rarry, p. 163, also thought it pro-
bable that they would fall back on the west coast of North
Somerset. Sir James Boss, however, doubts this, and at
page 164 thinks it is in lat. 73 N. and long. 105 W. that
we may expect to find Franklin's ships shut up. The
remarks of Sir George Back, at p. 171, and of Captain
Beechey, p. 173, may he referred to, who are of opinion
that many afflicted with scurvy would cling to their ships.

The most important news last received is the arrival at
Port Clarence on the 21st of August, of Captain Collinson,
in the Enterprise, from his long expedition in the Arctic
seas in the search of Sir John Franklin. It will be recol-

ENTEBPBISE AND INVESTIGATOB.

2G5

lected that this vessel sailed from England in the same sea-
son and at about the same time as the Investigator (Captain
M'Clure), which arrived on the Atlantic side of the conti-
nent a year since, having determined the North- West
passage. No news having been received of the Enterprise
for several yeare, almost as much anxiety was felt for her
safety and that of her officers and crew, as for the expedition
she was sent in search of; so much so as to induce the
Oovemment to station for her relief and assistance the
Rattlesnake^ at Port Clarence, and the Plover^ at Point
Barrow, during the winter of 1853, and they were both
arranging for their succeeding winter quarters at the time
the Enterprise returned ; at the termination of which season
the Government had given orders to abandon the search
for them.

The Enterprise went into the Arctic Sea in the summer
of 1851, and passed through Prince of Wales Strait, but
finding the ice impracticable for her advance, she wintered
the winter of 1851-2 in latitude 71° 35' N.; longitude 71'
85' W. After making every exertion to obtain the object
of her voyage, the winter of 1852-3 was passed in Cam-
bridge Bay, WoUaston Land, lat. 69° N., long. 105° 30' W.
Still proceeding on her voyage, the winter of 1853-4 found
her in Camden Bay, 70° 8' N., 145° 30'.

The ice released the vessel July 15th, 1854, when she
commenced her return passage, but she did not reach Point
Barrow until August 9th, having experienced baffling
southerly winds and calms. Immediately on her arrivd
at Port Clarence, on the 2l8t of August, finding that the
Plover had left for Point Barrow a few days previc as, for
the purpose of assisting and relieving the Enterprise^ as
soon as supplies could be put on board from the RattU'
snake; at three p.m. on the 22nd the Enterprise sidixied.
to overtake the Plover^ and communicate with and recal
her ; which duty performed, she would immediately pro-
ceed to Hong-kong and the Plover would repair to Valpa-
raiso, where the latter would meet the Rattlesnake.

During the three years the Enterprise has been in the
frozen sea, she has lost but three men — May 15th, 1853,
William Driver, ship's cook ; November 24th, 1852,
William Greenaway, able seaman ; June 29th, 1854,
William Cheeseman, private marine. The commander,
officers, and crew, fifty-nine in number, were in excellent
health. The Entoprise found traces of the Investigators
passage in many places, and went within ninety miles of her
winter harbour, but not being able to proceed farther on
account of the ice, sailed up to Wollaston Strait, and there
fell in with traces of Dr. liae's searches.

266

PEOGEESS OF ABCTIC DISCOVEET.

In the spring of 1852, travelling parties were despatched
over the ice, one of which reached Melville Island, after
great hardship. The natives met with during the voyage
were of a peaceable and kind disposition, ready at all times
to be of assistance in any manner in their power.

Probably no more interesting news, save information of
Sir John Franklin, could have been given to the world,
than the safety of this ship. Embarked on an errand of
mercy, which drew the attention of almost every civilized
being towards them, it was feared they had met the sup-
posed fate of those they had proceeded to save. The news
of their extrication was everywhere received with joy.

It is gratifying to find that in the course of her prolonged
absence, the Enterprise has lost so few men ; but, in
truth, occupation and exposure in these northern regions
have not been found prejudicial to the health of seamen,
excepting, of course, in the case of an overwhelming ca-
lamity, such as that -which evidently befel the JErehus and
Terror.

It would be idle to institute a comparison between the
results of the efforts made by Captain CoUinson and Captain
M'Clure respectively in these inhospitable regions. "We
would simply mention, as an act of justice to Captain Col-
linson, and lest it should be supposed that he had desisted
prematurely from his laborious and perilous task, that as
far as the IN orth-West Passage is concerned, the Enter-
prise accomphshed as much as the Investigator. Captain
Collinson reached the north-western end of Prince of
Wales Strait a little later than Captain M'Clure, who
may, no doubt, claim priority at this point. Both were
stopped by an impenetrable barrier of ice. There is no
substantial difference between the result obtained at this
point and the discovery made of Mercy Bay, where the
Investigator is lying janamed up amidst the ice. The diffi-
culty, we presume, of reaching Melville Island is not at all
greater from Point Russell than from Cape Hamilton.
Captain Collinson, moreover, has saved his ship. The
country will know how to place a proper value upon
the exertions and achievements of both these gallant offi-
cers, without seeking to raise or depress one at the cost of
the other.

Happily every human being employed on the searching
expeditions during the last few years has now been with-
drawn from these Arctic solitudes, and their exertions have
been most persevering and honourable, individually and
nationally. Our work amid the ice is now limited to any
future private investigations which may serve to throw light
upon the maimer in which Franklin and his friends came

FINAL NEWS BROTTGHT BT M*CLINTOCK. 267

by their end. We are no longer concerned for the living,
but require fuller tidings of the dead.

A letter from one of the American officers thus con-
cludes : — " If Sir John Franklin is gone to heaven, poor
man, why then, as in Sir Humphrey Gilbert's case, per-
haps seeking after him will be our shortest way of getting
there."

The cost of the various Government Arctic expeditions
up to the time of the outfit of Sir John Franklin's vessels,
amounted to £336,317. The outlav since incurred for the
Tarious searching expeditions by land and sea has been
about £900,000.

Since the foregoing details were published several years
ago, some further most interesting and important parti-
culars have been received. Five years after the publica-
tion of Dr. Bae's report, confirmatory evidence reached us
obtained directly on the spot.

So many fruitless efforts had been made in the search
after the missing expedition that the public mind had
almost given way to despair. But there was still one who
hoped against hope, and the screw yacht Fox, under the
commana c^ Cdpt. M'Clintock, was sent out in the spring
of 1857 at the expense of Lady Franklin. On the 21st of
September, 1859, the Fox arrived again in the Channel,
and Capt. M'Clintock reported his return to the Admiralty
in the despatch given below.

Capt. M'Clintock has thus added another plume to his
previous Arctic laurels.

Yacht Fox, Jt.Y.S.

Sir, — I beg yotf will inform the Lords Commissioners of the Admi-
ralty of the safe retam to this country of Lady Franklin's Final
Searching Expedition, which I have had the honour to conduct.

Their Lordships will rejoice to hear that our endeavours to ascer-
tain the fate of the " Franklin Expedition" have met with complete
success.

At Point Victory, upon the North-West coast of King William
Island, a record has been found, dated the 25th of April, 1848, and
signed by Captains Orozier and Fitzjames. By it we were informed
that H.M.S. Erebus and Terror were abandoned on the 22nd of April,
1848, in the ice, five leagues to the N.N.W., and that the survivors —
in all amounting to 105 souls, under the command of Capt. Crozier —
were proceeding to the Great Fish River. Sir John Franklin had died
on the 11th of June, 1847.

Many deeply interesting relics of our lost countrymen have been
picked up upon the western shore of King William Island, and others
obtained from the Esquimaux, by whom we were informed that sub-
sequent to their abandonment one ship was crushed and sunk by the

268

PEOGRESS OF AEOTIC DISCOVERT.

mt:

Jce, and the other forced on shore, where she haa ever since been,
aiToriling them an almost inexhaustible mine of wealth.

Being unable to penetrate beyond Bcllot Strait, the Fox wintered
in Brentford Bay, and the search — including the estuary of the Great
Fish Kiver and the discovery of 800 miles of coast line, by which we
have united the explorations of the former searching expeditions to
the North and West of our position with those of >Sir James Koss,
Dcase, Simpson, and Uae to the South — has been performed by sledge
Journeys this spring, conducted by Lieutenant Hobson, K.N., Captain
Allen Young, and myself.

As a somewhat detailed report of our proceedings will doubtless be
interesting to their Lordships, it is herewith enclosed, together with a
<chart of our discoveries and explorations, and at the earliest opportu-
nity I will present myself at the Admiralty to afford further informa-
tion, and lay before their Lordships the record found at Port Victory.

I have, &c.,
F. L. M'Clintock, CaptaiUf R.N.

To the Secretary cfthe Admiralty, London.

The Fox efTected her escape out of the main pack in Davis Straits,
in lat C3i° N., on the 25th of April, 1868, after a winter's ice drift of
1191 geographical miles.

The small settlement of Holsteinborg was reached on the 28th, and
fiuch very scanty supplies obtained as the place afforded.

On tlie 8th of May our voyage was recommenced ; Godhaven and
Vpemivik visited, Melville Bay entered early in June, and crossed to
Cape York by the 26th ; here some natives were communicated with;
they immediately recognised Mr. Petersen, our interpreter, formerly
known to them in the Grinnell expedition under Dr. Kane. In reply
to our inquiries for the Esquimaux dog-driver " Hans," left behind
from the Advance in 1858, they told us that he was residing at Whale
Sound. Had he been there I would most gladly have embarked him,
.as his longing to return to South Greenland continues unabated.

On the 12th of July communicated with the Cape Warrender natives,
near Cape Horsburgh ; they had not seen any ships since the visit
of tlie Phoinix in 1854, nor have any wrecks ever drifted upon their
fihores.

It was not until the 27th of July that we reached Fond Inlet,
owing to a most unusual prevalence of ice in the northern portion of
£aihn's Bay, and which rendered our progress since leaving Holstein-
]}org one of increasing struggle. Without steam power we could have
done nothing. Here only one old woman and a boy were found,
but they served to pilot us up the inlet for twenty-five miles, when
we arrived at their village. For about a week we were in constant
and most Interesting communication with these friendly people.
Briefly, the information obtained from them was, that nothing what-
ever respecting the Franklin expedition had come to their knowledge,
juor had any wrecks within the laat twenty or thirty years reached
their shores.

The remains of three wrecked ships are known to them ; two of
these appear to have been the whalers Dexterity and Aurora, wrecked
in August, 1821, some seventy or eighty miles southward of Pond
Jnlet. The third vessel, now almost buried in the sand, lies a few
■miles East of Cape Hay. This people communicate overland every

CAPT. M'CLINTOCK's EXPEDITION.

2GD

r since been,

!?ox wintered
of the Great
by which we
ixpeditions to
James Koss,
ned by sledge
R.N., Captain

I doubtless be
)gether with a
rliest opportu-
:ther informa-
Port Victory.

aptaiUt B'N'

I Davis Straits,
ter's ice drift of

I the 28th, and

Godhaven and
and crossed to
iunicated with;
)reter, formerly
:ane. In reply
8," left behind
iding at Whale
embarked him,
mabated.
rrender natives,
since the visit
fted upon their

5d Pond Inlet,
hem portion of
Eiving Holsteln-
■ we could have
)y were found,
,ve miles, when
sre in constant
•iendly people,
nothing what-
cir knowledge,
years reached

them; two of
[urora, wrecked

iward of Pond
[and, lies a few

1 overland every

winter with the tribes at Igloolik; they all knew of I'nrry's sliip^
having wintered there in 182i,'-3, and had heard of late yenrs of Dr.
liae'd visit to Repulse Bay, describing his boats as similar to ourwlinlo
boat, anil his party as living in tents, witliin snow-houses, smokin,s:
pipes, shooting reindeer, &c. None died. They remained tlierc only
one winter.

No rumour of the lost expedition has reached them. Within Pond
Inlet tlie natives told us the ice decays away every year, but so long
as any remains whales abound. Several large whales were seen by
us, and wo found among tlie natives a considerable quantity of whale-
bone and many narwhals' horns, which they were anxious to barter
fur knives, files, saws, rifles, and wool ; they drew us some rude charts
of tlie inlet, showing that it expands into an extensive channel looking
westward into Prince Regent Inlet.

We could not but regret that none of our whaling friends — from
whom we had recently received so much kir dness — were here to profit
by so favourable an opportunity. Leavinr, Pond Inlet on the Gth of
August, we reached Beechy Island on the 11th, and landed a liand-
aome marble tablet, sent on board for this purpose by Lady Franklin,
bearing an appropriate inscription to the memory of our lost country-
men in the Erebua and Terror.

The provisions and stores seemed in perfect order, but a small boat
was much damaged from having been turned over and rolled along
tlie beach by a storm. The roof of the house received some necessary
repairs. Having embarked some coals and stores we stood in need
of, and touched at Cape Hotham on the 16th, we sailed down Peel
Strait for twenty-ftve miles on the 17th, but finding the remainder of
this channel covered with unbroken ice, I determined to make for
Bellot Strait on the 19th of August, examined into supplies remain-
ing at Port Leopold, and left there a whale boat which we brought
away from Cape Hotham for the purpose, so as to aid us in our
retreat should we be obliged eventually to abandon the Fo.v. The
steam launch had been forced higher up on the beach, and somewhat
damaged by the ice. Prince Kegeht Inlet was unusually free from ice,
but very little was seen during our run down to Brentford Bay, which
we reached on the 20th of August. Bellot Strait, which communi-
cates with the western sea, averages one mile in width by seventeen
or eighteen miles in length. At this time it was filled with drift ice,
but as the season advanced became perfectly clear ; its shores are in
many places faced with lofty granite cliffs, and some of the adjacent
liills rise to 1600 feet ; the tides are very strong, running six or seven
knots at the springs. On the Uth of September we passed through
Bellot Strait without obstruction, and secured the ship to fixed ice
across its western outlet. From here, until the 27th, when I deemed
it necessary to retreat into winter quarters, we constantly watched
the movements of the ice in the western sea or channel. In mid-
channel it was broken up and drifting about ; gradually the propor-
tion of water increased, until at length the ice which intervened was
reduced to three or four miles in width. But this was firmly held fast
by numerous islets, and withstood the violence of the autumn gales.
It was tantalizing beyond description thus to watch from day to day
the free water which we could not reach, and which washed the rocky
shore a few miles to the southward of us !

During the autumn attempts were made to carry out depots of pro-
visions towards the magnetic pole, but these almost entirely failed in
consequence of the disruption of the ice to the southward. Lieut.

270

PnOORESS OP AECTIC DISCOVEET.

llobson returned with the sledge parties in November, after much
suti'erin^ from severe weather, uud imminent peril on one occasion,
when the ice upon which tliey were encamped became dulaclied from
the shore, and drifted off to leeward with them.

Our wintering position was at the East entrance to llcUot Strait,
in a siius harbour, which I have named Tort Kennedy, after my pre»
decessor in these waters, the commander of one of hady Franklin's
former searching expeditions. Allliough vegetation was tolerably
abundant, and our two Esquimaux hunters, Mr. Petersen, and several
sportsmen constantly on the alert, yet the resources of tlie country
during eleven months and a half only yielded us ei^Iit reindeer, two
bears, eighteen seals, and a few waterfowl and ptarmigan.

The winter was unusually cold and stormy. Arrangements were
completed during the winter for carrying out our intended plan of
search. I felt it to be my duty personally to visit Alurshal Island,
and in so doing proposed to complete the circuit of Jving William
Island.

To Lieutenant Hobson I allotted the search of the western shore of
Boothia to the magnetic pole, and iVom Gateshead Island westward to
Wynniatt furthest. Captain Allen Young, our sailing master, was to
trace the shore of Prince of Wales Land.from Lieut. Browne's furthest,
and also to examine the coast Arom Bellot Strait northwards, to Sir
James Boss's furthest.

Early spring journeys were commenced on the 17th of February,
1859, by Captain Young and myself. Captain Young carrying his depdt
across to Prince of W^ales Land, while I went southward, towards the
magnetic pole, in the hope of communicating with the Esquimaux,
and obtaining such information as might lead us at once to the object
of our search.

I was accompanied by Mr. Petersen, our interpreter, and Alexander
Thompson, quartermaster. We had with us two sledges drawn by dogs.
On the 28th of February, when near Cape Victoria, we had the good
fortune to meet a smali party of natives, and were subsequently visited
by about forty-five individuals.

For four days we remained in communication with them, obtaining
many relics, and the information that several years ago a ship was
crushed by the ice off the North shore of King William Island, but
that all her people landed safely, and w^ent away to the Great Fish
Kiver, where they died. This tribe was well supplied with wood,
obtained, they said, from a boat left by the white men on the Great
Bivei*.

We reached our vessel, after twenty-five days' absence, in good health,
but somewhat reduced by sharp marching and the unusually severe
weather to which we had been exposed. For several days after starting
the mercury continued frozen.

Ou the 2nd of April our loug projected spring journeys were com-
menced : Lieutenant Ilobson accompanied me as far as Cape Victoria,
each of us had a sledge drawn by four men, and an auxiliary sledge
drawn by six dofra. This was all the force we could muster.

Before separating we saw two Esquimaux families living out upon
the ice in snow huts ; from them we learned that a second ship bad
been seen ofl" King William Island, and that she drifted ashore on the
fall of the same year. From this ship they had obtained a vast deal
of wood and iron.

I now gave Lieut. Hobson directions to search for the wreck, and to
follow up any traces he might find upon King William Island.

CAPT. M'CLINTOCK*a EXPEDITTOIT.

271

after much
me occiiHion,
lachcd from

Ik'llot Strait,
iftcr my pre-
ly Franklin's
vas tolerably
, and fleveral
the country
reindeer, two

rements were
iided plan of
arshal Island,
lung William

38tern shore of
d westward to
master, was to
wne's fiu-thest,
hwards, to Sir

li of February,
rying his depdt
•d, towards the
tie Esquimaux,
36 to the object

and Alexander
rawn by dogs,
had the good

iqueutly visited

lem, obtaining
igo a ship was
am Island, but
the Great Fish
ed with wood,
n on the Great

in good health,
nusually severe
jrs after starting

neys were com-
3 Cape Victoria,
luxiliary sledge
ster.

iving out upon
lecond ship bad
id ashore on the
med a vast deal

[e wreck, and to
island.

Accompanied by my own party and Mr. IVtcrst'n.I marched along
the Kast shore of King Williuni Island, occasionally passing (loscrti'd
snow lints, but without mooting nhtivcs till the 8th of May, when otT
Capo Norton we iirrivod at a snow villapro containing about thirty
inhabitants. They gatherod about us without tho slightest appi- ancu
of fear or shyness, although none had ever scon living white peoi)le
before. They were most willing to communicate all tlieir knowledgo
and barter all their goods, but would have stolen everything had they
not been very closely watched. I^Iany more relics of our countrynu-n
were obtained ; we could not carry away all we might have purchased.
They pointed to the inlet we had crossed the day before, and told us
that one day's march up it, and thence four days overland, brought
them to the wreck.

None of these people had been there since 1857-8, at which time
they said but little remained, their countrymen having carried away
almost everything.

Most ot our information was received from an intelligent old woman ;
she said it was on the fall of the year that the ship was forced ashore ;
many of the white men dropped by the way as they went towards the
Great Itiver ; but this was only known to them in the winter following,
when their bodies were discovered.

They all assured us that we would find natives upon the South
shore, at the Great Kiver, and some few at the wreck ; but unfortu-
nately this was not the case. Only one family was met witii off Point
Booth, and none at Montreal Island or any place subsequently visited.

Point Ogle, Montreal Island, and Barrow Island were searched with-
out finding anything except a few scraps of copper and iron in an
Esquimaux hiding-place.

Recrossing the strait to King William Island, wc continued the
examination of its southern shore without success until the 24th of
May, when about ten miles eastward of Cape Hersciiel a bleached
skeleton Vas found, around which lay fragments of European clothing.
Upon carefully removing the snow a small pocket-book was found,
containing a few letters. These, although much decayed, may yet be
deciphered. Judging from the remains of his dress, this unfortunate
young man was a steward or officer's servant, and his position exactly
verified the Esquimaux's assertion, that they dropped as they walked
along.

On reaching Cape Henschel next day, we examined Simpson's
Cairn, or rather what remains of it, Avhich is only four feet higii, and
the central stones had been removed as if by men seeking something
within it. My impression at the time, and which I still retain, is that
records were deposited there by the retreating crews, and subsequently
removed by the natives.

After parting from me at Cape Victoria on the 28th of April Lieu-
tenant Hobson made for Cape Felix. At a short distance westward
of it he found a very large cairn, and close to it three small tents,
with blankets, old clothes, and other relics of a shooting or a magnetic
station. But although the cairn was dug under, and a trench dug all
round it at a distiince of ten feet, no record was discovered. A piece
of blank paper folded up was found in the cairn, and two broken
bottles, which may, perhaps, have contained records, lay beside it,
among some stones which had fallen from off the top. The most inte-
resting of the articles discovered here, including a boat's ensign, were
brought away by 3Ir. Hobson. About two miles further to the S.W'.

■W"' '

■i

272

PllOailESS OF ATICTIC DISCOVERY.

H il

a snmll cairn was found, but ncitlier records nor relics obtained. About
tliri'v' lullf!^ Norlli of I'oint Victory a second small cnirnwaa examined,
but only a broken iiickuxe and empty ciiniHter found.

On the Gth of iMuy, LieutenuMt IlobHon pitched liid tent beside a
lar;?<' cairn upon Point Victory. Lying among some Iooijc stones which
had fiillcn from the top of this cairn, was found a .small tin case con-
taining a record, the substance of which is briefly as follows: — This
Cairn wai built by the Franklin expedition, upon the assumed site of
Kir .James Ko.ss's pillar, which had not been found. The Krehna and
f/Vrror spent their first winter at Heechy Island, after having ascended
AVelllngton Channel to lat. 77° N., and returned by the West side of
Cornwallls I.sland. On the 12th of September, lH4(j, they were beset
in lat. 70^ .!>' N., and long. 98" 23' VV. Sir J. Franklin died on the
lith of .Tunc, 1847. On the 32nd of April, 1848, the ships were
abandoned five leagues to the N.N.W. of Point Victory, and the
survivors, 105 in number, landed here under the command of Captain
Crozier. This paper was dated April i>5th, 1848, and on the following
day they intended to start for the Grcat'Fish Kiver. The total loss by
deaths in the expedition up to this date was nine oflJcers and fifteen
men. A vast quantity of clothing and stores of all sorts lay strewed
about, as if here every article was thrown away which could possibly bo
dispensed with : pickaxes, shovels, boats, cooking utensils, ironwork,
rope, blocks, canvas, a dip circle, a sextant engraved " Frederic
Hornby, R.N.," a small medicine-chest, oars, &c.

A few miles southward, across Back Day, a second record was found,
having been deposited by Lieutenant Gore and M. des Voeux in May,
1847. It alTorded no additional information.

Lieutenant Hobson continued his search until within a few days*
inarch of Cape Uerschel, without finding any trace of the wreck or
of natives. He left full information of his important discoveries for
me ; therefore, when returning northward by the West shore of King
William Island, I had the advantage of knowing what haA already
been found.

Soon after leaving Cape Herschel the traces of natives became less
numerous and less recent, and after rounding the West point of the
island they ceased altogether. This shore is extremely low, and almost
utterly destitute of vegetation. Numerous banks of shingle and low
islets lie off it, and beyond these Victoria Strait is covered with heavy
and impenetrable packed Ice.

When in lat. 69° 9' N., and long. 99° 27' W., we came to a large
boat, discovered by Lieutenant Hobson a few days previously, as his
notice informed me. It appears that this boat had been intended for
the ascent of the Fish Kiver, but was abandoned apparently upon a
return journey to the ships, the sledge upon which she was mounted
being pointed in that direction. She measured 28 feet in length, by 7^
feet wide, was most carefully fitted, aud made as light as possible, but
the sledge was of solid oak, and almost as heavy as the boat.

A large quantity of clothing was found within her, also two human
skeletons. One of these lay in the after part of the boat, under a pile
of clothing ; the other, which was much more disturbed, probably by
animals, was found in the bow. Five pocket watches, a quantity of
silver spoons and forks, and a few religious books were also found, but
no journals, pocket-books, or even names upon any articles of clothing.
Two double-barrelled guns stood upright against the boat's side pre-
cisely as they had been placed eleven years before. One barrel in each

CAPT. M'CLIXTOCK's PHOCJEEDiyOS.

273

nod. About
Litfcxamineil,

cnt beside a
stones wliicli
tin case con-
illows :— This
mined site of
e Krebiia and
'Inj? ascended
West Bide of
ey were beset
I died on the
»e ships were
;ory, and tlic
ad of Captain
, the following
le total 1089 by
ere and fifteen
•ta lay strewed
uld possibly be
tsils, ironwork,
ved "Frederic

ord was found,
Yoeux in May,

iln a few days'

if the wreck or

discoveries for

shore of Kinj?

at haft already

res became less
jst point of the

ow, and almost
Ihingle and low

ed with heavy

jame to a large
feviously, as his
en intended for
Larently upon a
le was mounted
in length, by 7 i
[as possible, but
Iboat.
ilso two human

Lt, under a pile
Vd, probably by
t, a quantity of
also found, but
hes of clothing,
[boat's side pre-
I barrel in each

wa^ loaded and cocked. There wai' anununition in abundance, also
3(ilb. or tolb. of ch<jcolut(>, some teuund toliacco. Fuel wa« not want-
tng; a drift tree lay within 100 yanls of tiie boat. .Alauy very inte-
resting relics were brought away by Lieutenant Ilub!jun,and some few
by myself.

On the 5th of June I reached I'olnt Victory without having found
anything further. The clotliing, &c., was again examined fur docu<
ments, note-books, &c., without success, a record placed in tlie cairn,
and another buried ten feet true North of it.

Nothing worthy of remark occurred upon my return Journey to the
fildp, wliich we reached on the 19th of June, five days after Lieutenant
Hobson.

Tlic shore of King William Island between its North and West
extremes. Capes Felix and Crozier,ltas not been visited by Esquimaux
since the abandonment of tlie J-Jrebus and Terror, as tlio cairns and
articles lying strewed about, which are in their eyes of priceless value,
iKmain untouched.

If the wreck still remains visible it is probable she lies on some of
the otf-lying islets to the southward between Capes CYozier and
llerschel.

On the 38th of June Captain Young and his party returned, having
completed their portion of the search, by which the insularity of
l*rince of Wales Land was determined, and the coast line intervening
between the extreme points reached by Lieutenants Osborne and
Itrowne discovered : also between Uellot Strait and Sir James Ross's
furthest in 1849, at Four Kiver liay.

Fearing that his provisions might not last out the requisite period,
Captain Young sent back four of his men, and for forty days Journeyed
on through fogs and gales with but one man and the dogs, building a
snow hut each night ; but few men could stand so long a continuance
of labour and privation, and its effect upon Captain Young was pain-
fully evident.

liieutenont Hobson was unable to stand without assistance upon his
return on board ; he was not in good health when he commenced his
long journey, and the sudden severe exposure brought on a serious
attack of tcurvy ; yet he also most ably completed his Mork ; and such
facts will more clearly evince the unflinching spirit with which tho
object of our voyage has been pursued in these detached duties than
any praise of mine.

We were now, at length, all on board again. As there were some
slight cases of scurvy, all our treasured resources of Burton ale, lemon
juice, and fresh animal food were put into requisition, so that in a
eomparatively short time all were restored to sound health.

During our sojourn in Port Kennedy we were twice called upon to
follow a shipmate to the grave. Mr. George Brands, engineer, died of
apoplexy on the Cth of November, 1858 ; he had been out deer shoot-
ing several hours that day, and appeared in excellent health.

On the 14th of June, 1859, Thomas Blackwell, ship's steward,
died of scurvy ; this man had served in two of the former searching
expeditions.

The summer proved a warm one. We were able to start upon our
homeward voyage on the 9th of August, and although the loss of the
engine-driver in 1857, and of the engineer in 185S left us with only
two stokers, yet, with their assistance, I was able to control the enginea
and steam the ship up to Fury Point.

r ii

274

PROGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

For six days wo lay tliere closely beset, when a clian^je of wind
removinff the ico, our voyage was continued ii'lmost witliout further
interruption to (iodhaveii, in Disco, where we arrived on tlie 27tli of
August, and were received with great kindness by Mr. Olick, inspector
of North (Jreenland, and the local authorities, who obligingly supplied
our few wants.

The two Esquimaux dog-drivers were now discharged, and on the
1st of September we sailed for England.

From all that can be gleaned from the record paper, and the evi-
dence afforded by the boat, and various articles of clothing and equip-
ment discovered, it appears that the abandonment of the Erebus and
Terror had been deliberately arranged, and every eflbrt exerted during
the third winter to render the travelling equipments complete.

It is much to be apprehended that disease had greatly reduced the
strength of all on board, far more perhaps than they themselves were
aware of.

The distance by sledge route, from the position of the ships when
abandoned to the boat is 65 geograph oal miles; and from the ships
to Montreal Island 220 miles.

The most perfect order seems to have existed throughout.

In order to extend as much as possible the public utility of this
toyage. magnetical, meteorological, and other observations, subservient
to scientific purposes, and for which instruments were supplied through
the liberality of the Koyal Society, have been continually and careAiUy
taken, and every opportunity has been embraced by the Surgeon,
D. Walker, M.D., of forming complete collections in all the various
oranohes of natural history.

This report would be incomplete did I not mention the obligations
I have been laid under to the companions of my voyage, both officers
and men, by their zealons and unvarying support throughout.

A feeling of entire devotion to the cause, which Lady Franklin has
so nobly sustained, and a firm determination to eifect all that men
could do, seems to have supported them through every difficulty.
With less of this enthr.'viastic spirit, and cheerfUl obedience to every
command, our small number — twenty-three in all — would not have
sufficed for the buccessful performance of so great a work.

F. L. M'Clintock, Caj)tain, R.N.
Commanding the Final Searching Mxpedition,

The yacht Fox, R. Y.S., off the Isle of Wight,
September 2l8t, 1859.

i ■:

n ■

The end of the great, romantic, melancholy story
of Arctic Discovery has at last arrived. The crea-
tions of the most vivid imagination are cast into the
shade by the terrible sublimity of the simple narra-
tive in which Captain M'Clintock has recorded the
>»'! tory of his search after some tangible traces of the
late of Sir John Franklin's Arctic expedition. Wan-
dering on, day after day, through the trackless wastes
of that vast icy wilderness, where nature lays aside the
verdant garb which she wears in the temperate zone, and
dons a raiment of bleak and desolate sterility, and battling
l)ravely against the obstacles which opposed themselves to

BRIEF STORY OF THEIR FATE.

275

in^ic of ^vin(l
thout further
1 the 2 7th of
lick, inspector
ngly supplied.

id, and on the

, and the evi-

[ng and equip-

he Erebus and

exerted during

nplete.

ly reduced the

I'emselves were

he ships wheu
from the ships

hout.

J utility of this
ions, subservient
uppUed through
lly and carefully
,y the Surgeon,
all the various

1 the obligations

ige, both officers

tughout.

dy Franklin has

ct all that men

every difficulty.

edience to every

would not have

ork.

tain, R-N^'

ng JExpedition,

mclioly story
1. The crea-
, cast into the
Limple narra-
[recorded the

traces of the
dition. Wan-
ickless wastes
J lays aside the
Irate zone, and

f, and battUng
themselves to

the accomplishment of a mission, prompted by a noblo
conjugal devotion whicli has won for the heroic lady \vho
now moiirna in assured widowhood a place in the warm
ail'ections of every heart, the explorers came at last upon
a sorrowful evidence that the path which they had chosen
was likely to lead to the elucidation of tlie mystery which
has been so long for all Englishmen an object of mournful
speculation.

It is now nearly fifteen years since Sir John Franklin,
and his companions started on that ill-starred expedition,
the hitherto undiscovered doom of which has filled the
public mind with such keen anxiety, and racked so many
hearts with a despairing sorrow through which some
gleams of hope still struggled to the last. The discovery
by Captain Ommanney, in 1850, of traces of an encamp-
ment at Cape Kiley, with graves bearing the names of
some of the party, and dated 1846, gave rise to the con-
viction that the ships had passed up Wellington Channel,
and the record found by Captain M'Clintock's party on
Point Victory shows that they did pursue this course, and
then, passing down the western side of Comwallis Island,
sailed through Ommanney Inlet to the spot where they
were ultimately hemmed in by the ice. Thus far the
zealous perseverance of our navigators has triumphed over
apparently insurmountable obstacles, and enabled us to
follow the track of the JErehus and Terror up to the mo-
ment of their destruction ; and, mournful as is the intel-
ligence which they have now brought to us, affording
certain confirmation of our fears, it has yet one consoling
element, which goes far to alleviate our regrets. Few can
have cherished the hope that the gallant Franklin would
ever be seen among us again ; and all will be gratified to
learn that his last moments were clouded by no extraor-
dinary perils or privations, but that the kindly hand of
death released him from suffering before the commence-
ment of the terrible trials which awaited his companions,
but which their veteran commander was less fitted than
they were to endure. The brave old man has found a not
inappropriate grave in the region which is indissolubly
connected with his early fame ; for no Arctic navigator
has added more important contributions to our store of
knowledge with regard to the sterile shores and frozen
inlets of the north, or prosecuted his researches under dif-
ficulties more calculated to appal any but the most valiant
heart, than he who now sleeps among the icebergs in an
unknown, but not an unhonoured grave*

T 2

276

PROGRESS or ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

ht''

; li :

Thus the last ray of light that coald have illuminated
the recesses of those sorrowful regions, which modern in-
vestigation has discovered to be darker and more hopeless
than the Ultima Thule of ignorant antiquity, has flickered
and died out. The ashes are borne home to us : — at last
the mystery of Franklin's fate is solved. We know where
he died, we know the very day of his death, and that
the ardent spirit of John Franklin passed away amid a
world of ice and snow. And, indeed, it would seem that
the trials of his previous explorations, and the anxieties
attendant upon the beginning of his last search for the
North-West Passage, had proved too much for his iron
frame before the calamities and disasters for which Cap-
tain M'Clintock has prepared us, came upon the rest of
the expedition. The great navigator died in no sudden
shock or great disaster ; he was crushed by no iceberg,
he did not starve miserably on some wandering ice floe,
nor did he drift away in storm and ice haze, which cast a
veil so thick around nim that the survivors can only say,
** After that we never saw him more." No I he died sur-
rounded by comrades, and friends, and in the discharge of
his duty. No soldier or sailor can desire or hope a nobler
fate. The condolences and sympathies of a nation ac-
companying the sorrows of his widow and the griefs of
his friends, but it is not altogether out of place for the
country to express its satisfaction that the lives of brave
sailors were not uselessly sacrificed in a series of expedi-
tions which should have borne for their motto, * Hoping
against hope." So far it is satisfacto^ to know the
" Final Search " has proved that Sir John Franklin is
dead. Alas ! there can be no longer those sad wailings
from an imagmary Tintagel to persuade the credulous that
an Arthur still lives.

At Point Victory, on the north-west coast of King
William Island, a record of the proceedings of the Frank-
lin Expedition was found, dated April 25th, ISiS, and
signed by Captain Crozier and Captain Fitzjames. The
story it told appears to have been simple and sad enough
—Sir John Franklin had died nearly ten months before —
on the 11th of June, 1847. The Expedition seems then
to have worked on as well as it could, and, as soon as the
ice permitted, to have proceeded with its mission, but
month after month of battle with frost, and ice, and snow
passed away — difficulties no doubt were encountered
which none of us who sit at home can realize, and on one
fatal day, the 22ud of April, 1848, the JErehus and the

i;>^IYERSAL STMrATHY MANIFESTED.

277

amiBated
odern in-
} hopeless
I flickered
; : — at last
LOW wliere
and that
ay amid a
seem that
5 anxieties
jh for the
►r his iron
;\rhich Cap-
the rest of
no sudden
no iceberg,
Qg ice floe,
rhich cast a
n only say,
tie died sur-
diBcharge of
jpe a nobler
I nation ac-
he griefs of
)lace for the
es of brave
J of expedi-
o, '' Hoping
, tnow the
Franklin is
sad waiUngs
edulousthat

wt of King
the Frank-
1848, and
ames. The
. sad enough
[ths before —
I seems then
soon as the
mission, but
je, and snow
encountered
L and on one
\hus and the

Terror were abandoned by their crews, fifteen miles
N.N.W. of Point Victory. The " survivors," which is a
term that indicates other losses than that of the great seamaa
who led them, to the number of 105, two days after the
abandonment of the yessels, reached the island, erected a
cairn, concealed the record, and were then about to pro-
ceed for the Great Fish Eiver, under the command of
Captain Crozier.

Since that day they have all shared the fate of their
chief, dropping down one after another till the last man
perished.

For ten years past, all that national solicitude aided and
inspired by the most sacred domestic affection — all that
the tender human feeling of all nations, and the chival-
rous rivalry of the Old World and the New, could furnish
of zeal, skill, courage, eager daring, and stern endurance,
to the one great object of seeking out the lost, has been
prodigally spent ; and as if indeed it were the will of
Heaven that in all calamity there should be a blessing,
we have seen not only our kinsmen beyond the Atlantic,
but France and Eussia, lending no sterile sympathy to
our great bereavement. "Whenever and wherever the
story of Franklin and his comrades is told, the names of
Bellot, of Kane, of GrinneU, will be remembered with
the names of Eae and Kichardson, of Boss, of Maclure,
and M'CIintock. Dr. Kae heard from the Esquimaux
that the English commander had died of hunger,
and thirty of his men with him. It is too certain that all
the survivors from the abandoned ships perished of sheer
starvation, for there is nothing to show that they suffered
any violence, or that the term of their sufferings was cut
short by any human hand. What those sufferings must
have been, and with what unquailing steadfastness en-
dured, no man from those icy regions shall ever tell, for
all lay wrapt in everlasting sleep, secure from harm, long
months and years before the arm of their country could
reach them, though again and again it was stretched
almost within their grasp. But it was not to be. Nor
was their work accomplished when their martyrdom was
sealed. The example of their lives and deaths is precious
to England,and to all humanity.

We have said that their work was accomplished. It
is to Franklin and his comrades that we owe the dis-
covery (by Maclure) of the North-West Passage, and it
is on Franklin's track that other and happier explorers
have marched to the conquest of unpitying science. The

278

PEOGBESS or AECTIO DISCOTEET.

voyage of the gallant little yacht Fox is not among the
least glorious episodes of a sad and splendid story. Who
can forget that it was the wife, now too surely the widow,
of Franklin, whose commission the noble-hearted seaman
bore who was destined to bring home the final message
from the dead P Not only has " the feeling of entire de-
votion to the cause which Lady Franklin has so nobly
sustained, and a firm determination to do all that mea
could do," as Captain M'Clintock, with the frank sim-
plicity and truthfiilness of a seaman, declares, supported
nim and his companions through every difficulty, but it
has enabled them, in detached parties, by sledge journeys,
to add to former discoveries "eight hundred miles of
coast line," and thus, writes Captain M'Clintock, *' to unite
the explorations of the former searching expeditions to the
North and West of our position with those of James Boss,
Dease, and Rae to the South." Neither fog, nor gale,
nor wasting sickness, nor long privation, nor severe suflfer-
ing, nor imminent peril, could for a moment daunt or
weaken the *' enthusiastic spirit " and the " cheerful obe-
dience " of these last of the Arctic discoverers.

' • { !

To the foregoing narrative we must add the following
faithful copies of the contents of the two papers above-
mentioned, and the list of articles brought home.

May, 1847.

{

H.M.S. Erehtis and Terror
Wintered in the ice in
Lat. 70" 5', Long. 98° 23' W.

Having wintered in 1846-7* at Beechey Island in lat. 74" 43' 28"
N., long. 91° 39' 15" W., after having .ascended Wellington Channel
to lat. 77°, and returned by the West side of Cornwallis Island.
Sir John Franklin commanding the expedition.
Party, consisting of two officers and six men, left the ships oa
Monday, 24th May, 1847.

Graham Gore, Zf., and
C. F. de V^L'X, Mate.

25th April, 1848, H.M. ships Terror and Erebus were deserted on the
22nd of April, 5 leagues N.N.W. of this, having been beset since 12th
Sept. 1846. The officers and crews consisting of 105 souls, under the
command of Captain F. R. M. Crozier, landed here in lat. 69° 37' 42",
long. 98° 41' W. This paper was found by Lieut. Irvingt under the

* [This is evidently dated in mistake, and should be 1845-46.]
t He was the junior lieutenant of the Terror when the expedition
left England in 1845.

EELICS BEOUGHT HOME.

279

cairn supposed to have been built by Sir Jamea Ross in 1831, four miles
to the nortliward, where it had been deposited by the late Commander
Gore in June 1S47. Sir James Ross's pillar has not however been
found, and the paper has been transferred to this position, which is
that in whicii Sir James Ross's pillar wu erected. Sir John Franklin
died on the llth June, 1847, and the total loss by deaths in the expe-
dition has been to this date 9 officers and 15 men.

F. R. M. Crozier, Captain and Senior Officer, and James Fitzjames,
Captain H.M. ship Erebus, start to-morrow, 26th, for Back's Fish
Elver.

the ships on

Melics hrouqhtfrom the Boat found in Lot. 69° 8' 43" N.,
Zona. 99° 24' 42" W., upon the West Coast of King
William's Island, May 30, 1859.

Two double-barrelled guns — one barrel in each is loaded.
iFound standing up against the side in the after part of
the boat.

In one parcel. — A small Prayer-Book ; cover of a small
book of "Family Prayers ;" ** Christian Melodies," an in-
scription within the cover to " G. G." (Graham Gore P) ;
** Vicar of Wakefield ;" a small Bible, interlined in many
places, and with numerous references written in the mar-
gin ; a New Testament in the French language.

Tied together. — Two table-knives with white handles
—one is marked ** W. R. ;" a gimlet, an awl, two iron
stancheons, nine inches long, for supporting a weather
cloth which was round the boat.

Tied together. — 26 pieces of silver plate — 11 spoons, 11
forks, and 4 teaspoons, 3 pieces of thin elm board (tingles)
for repairing the boat, and measuring 11 by 6 inches, and
3-lOths inch thick.

All wrapped up in a piece of canvas. — Bristles for shoe-
makers' use, bullets, short clay pipe, roll of waxed twine,
a wooden button, small piece of a port-fire, two charges of
shot tied up in the finger of a kid glove, tied up in a
fragment of a seaman's blue serge frock. Covers of a -^mall
Testament and Prayer-Book, part of a grass cigar-case,
fragment of a silk handkerchief, thread-case, piece of
scented soap, three shot charges in kid-glove fingers, a
belted bullet (tied together in a piece of silk pocket-hand-
kerchief), 2 pairs of goggles, made of stout leather, and
wire gauze, instead of glass ; a sailmaker's palm, 2 small
brass pocket compasses, a snooding line rolled up on a piece
of leather, a needle and thread-case, a bayonet-scabbard
altered into a sheath for a knife, tin water-bottle for the
pocket, 2 shot-pouches (full of shot).

In canvas.— Three spring hooks of sword belts, a gold

280

PROOEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY.

;

ti;r

6 :n

i 'V

'. 1 9

'ni

lace band, a piece of thin gold twist or cord, a pair of
leather goggles, with crape instead of glass, a small green
crape veil.

Wrapped together in canvas. — Two small packets of
blank cartridge in green paper, part of a cherry stick pipe
stem, piece of a port-fire, a few copper nails, a leather
bootlace, a seaman's clasp knife, 2 small glass stoppered
bottles (full) placed in a medicine chest, 3 glasses of spec-
tacles, part of a broken pair of silver spectacles, German
silver pencilcase, pair of silver (P) forceps, such as a na-
turalist might use for holding or seizing small insects, &c.;
a small pair of scissors rolled up in blank paper, and to
which adheres a printed Government paper such as an
officer's warrant or appointment, a spring hook of a sword
belt, a brass charger for holding two charges of shot.

Wrapped together in canvas. — ^A small bead purse,
piece ot red sealingwax, stopper of a pocket flask, German
silver top and ring, brass match-box, one of the glasses of
a telescope, a small tin cylinder, probably made to hold
lucifer matches, some of the loose grains of shot have
been put into it ; a linen bag of percussion caps of three
sizes, and very large and old-fashioned kind, stamped
" Smith's patent ;" a cap with flange similar to the pre-
sent musket caps used by Government, but smaller ; and
ordinary sporting caps of the smallest size.

Five watches in a paper packet.

A pair of blue glass spectacles, or goggles, with steel
frame, and wire gauze encircling the glasses, in a tin case.

A pemmican tm, painted lead colour, and marked " E "
(Erebus) in black ; from its size it must have contained
20 or 22 lbs.

Two yellow glass beads, a glass seal with symbol of
Freemasonry.

A 4-inch block strapped, with copper hook and thimble,
probably for the boat's sheet.

That Sir John Franklin followed literally his instnic-
tions is now quite clear. He succeeded in ascending
Wellington Channel and making his way back southward
by coasting Cornwallis Island; but what is singular is
thafc no records were found deposited anywhere along
Byam Martin's Channel and on Byam Martin's Island,
which, it may be remembered, was the winter quarters
of &ir Edward Belcher in 1853-54, and where the JReso-
lute was abandoned in May, 1854.

At page 153 (ante). Sir John Eichardson states that
Franklin's plans were to shape his course in the first in-

EEFLECTIONS AITI) INFERENCES.

2S1

a pair of
lall green

►ackets of
stick pipe
, a leather
stoppered
(8 of spec-
3, German
L as a na-
Lsects, &c.;
)er, and to
iuch as an
of a sword

shot.

jad purse,
ik, German
3 glasses of
&de to hold

shot have

IS of three
stamped
to the pre-

laller; and

with steel

a tin case.

irked "E"

contained

symbol of

id thimble.

instnic-

ascending

southward

[singular is

lere along

In's Island,

jr quarters

the JBeso-

Istates that
Ihe first in-

stance for the neighbourhood of Cape Walker and to push
to the westward in that parallel, or if that could not be
accomplished to make his way southward, to the channel
discovered on the north coast of the continent, and so on
to Behring's Straits.

The remarks I made at page 206 seem to be borne
out by the accounts received, namely, that should their
provisions become inadequate to another winter's con-
sumption, they would not remain longer by their ships,
but m one body or in several the officers and crews, with
boats cut down so as to be light enough to drag over the
ice, they would endeavour to make their way southward
to the main land.

Neither Captain Crozier nor Captain Fitzjames had any
previous knowledge of the localities in which, upon aban-
doning their ship, they were thrown. Even in tne face of
the knowledge of the disastrous former land journey of
Franklin, the party of survivors, on leaving their ship,
seem to have been making their way in the direction of
the Great Fish Eiver, which had been explored and
described by Capt. Back and Dr. King, thus falsifying the
opinion advanced (p. 165) by Sir James Boss, that he "could
not conceive any position in which they could be placed
from which they would make for the Great Fish River."

It is much to be regretted that the repeated offers of
Dr. King to conduct a party up this river in search had
not been accepted when made. It would have determined
earlier this long sought question of their fate, and might
have resulted in saving a few lives, seeing that many of
the party appear to have lingered on untu the spring of
1850. Much expenditure in the later expeditions would
also have been saved, and their despatch rendered unne-
cessary had earlier intelligence been received of the fate
of Franklin's party.

Captain Sir George Back, in his letter (p. 171), overlooked
altogether the contingency, which occurred, of the death of
Sir John Franklin, and the charge of the party falling into
other hands.

" We now know all that ever will be known of Sir John
Franklin's fate, and it would be difficult to imagine a more
touching story than that given to the world by Captain
M'Clintock, commander of the final searching expedition.
It is always better to know the worst, and even though
we had long ceased to expect any positive information as
to the fate of those heroic men who had ventured their
lives in the cause of science, there is, at least, a bitter
consolation in knowing that all has been done that could

282

PEOGEESS OP AECTIC DISCOVEET.

W'i^ 1?

be done, even though the result but comes to confirm the
worst apprehensions. In the jjlorious list of Enfflaiid's
heroes trie name of Sir John Franklin must ever hold a
conspicuous position. It was not for him to die, like
Wolfe or Nelson, with the welcome shout of victory ring-
ing in his ears. He had not gone forth at the head of a
British fleet to win a conqueror's fame in battle against
England's foes. But the errand on which he went required
all the daring, all the skill, and all the patience which are
ever found united in a great captain. He went out to
seek what many before him had sought in vain — the North-
west Passage. Success would make no change in the
political arrangements of the nations of Europe. It would
not touch the balance of power. It would not add one
square inch of territory to the vast possessions of Queen
victoria ; but it would add, perhaps, one new discovery
to the grand assemblage of scientific tracks which the
world owes to the daring ent-jrprise of Englishmen. The
foreigner who said of the charge at Balaklava, "c'est
magnifique^ mais ce n'est point la guerre" might also have
marvelled at the spirit which has led us to sacrifice so
many valuable lives for so barren an object ; and true it
is that the discovery has cost us dear. It has cost us the
life of Sir John Franklin and the lives of all who sailed with
him in that perilous expedition. It is true, moreover, that
we can never afibrd to waste the life of a single brave
Englishman, and yet there is but one answer to any who
ask us why we permit such wanton sacrifices, and that
answer is to be found in Canada, in India, and in the
colonies we have planted in every quarter of the globe.
We love enterprise for its own sake, even if the result be
a barren one j whenever a field is open for daring and
enterprise an Englishman is ready to offer his services.
If it be a fault, it is a fault on the right side, and on the
whole the gain has far exceeded the loss.

" This is a sad but glorious tale. It is sad to think that
we have lost so many brave men ; that far away, amid frost
and snow, in the dark inhospitable north, heroic English-
men have given up their precious lives — a costly sacrific-
to science. And yet a gleam of pride lights up our sorrow,
for all England delights to hold in honour the memory of
those who have given to the world such an example of
energy and enterprise. It is not without a sense of relief
that we welcome back Captain M'Clintock and his gallant
companions. We now feel that our duty in this matter is
accomplished — that the truth is known, and the last sacri-
fice made." — The Times.

FINDING OF THE BESOLVTE.

283

mfirm tlio
England's
er nold a

dio, like
itory ring-
head of a
,le against
it required

which are
'ent out to
•the North-
Qge in the
>. It would
lot add one
s of Queen
IV discovery
\ which the
imen. The
lava, "c'eat
ht also have
) sacrifice so

and true it

I cost us the

10 sailed with

)reover, that

single brave

' to any who

js, and that

, and in the

f the globe.

he result be

• daring and

his services.

!, and on the

^ think that
[y, amid frost
l-oic English
[stly saerifico
b our sorrow,
|e memory of
T example of
Wse of relief
Id his gallant
this matter is
■he last sacri-

Tho history of the recovery of the Hesoltiie, and the
graceful return of that ship to the British nation hj the
United States' Government, is a feature of Arctic history
deserving of permanent record in these pages.

The Resolute was one of the vessels abandoned by Sir
Edward Belcher, being frozen ;ip in 77° latitude, off Byam
Martin's Island, in May, ISodi. She was picked up sixteen
months afterwards, in lat. 66° 30', long. 64 , by an American
whaler in Davis' Strait, having drifted about 1200 miles
through Barrow's Strait and Baffin's Bay. The following
is the captain's account of the finding of the ship, and the
difficulties he experienced in bringing her into port :-—

On the 10th of September, 1855, latitude 67° N., and
while in this field of ice, Captain Buddington discovered a
ship in the distance, bearing north-east, about twenty
miles from Cape Mercy. He ascended the rigging of his
craft, and, looking at her through the glass, pronounced
her, from her appearance, to be an abandoned vessel. For
five days we were in sight of one another. On the sixth
day after making the discovery, and when the ship was
about seven miles off, Captain B. ordered the two mates
and two of the crew to proceed to the abandoned vessel
across the packed ice, and, after inspecting her, to return
to the bark as soon as practicable.

Soon after the departure of the party a south-easter
sprung up, and in consequence thereof no communication
was had with those on board the ship for two days. As
soon as the wind subsided, and it was safe for the party
to retrace their steps, they left the ship ; and, after a
tedious and hard march, arrived on board of the bark in
safety. They immediately represented the facts to Cap-
tain Buddington, saying that the abandoned vessel was
her Britannic Majesty's ship Resolute. The captain,
knowing the history of Sir Edward Belcher's expedition
to the Polar seas, at once divined the reasons of the vessel
being left in that condition ; and, knowing that the safe
conveyance of that vessel to some port would be better
than catching whales, and knowing withal that it would be
quite a piece of glory to hand back to the Britishers a
vessel long since abandoned by them as being lost to
the Queen's service for ever, determined at all hazards to
try the bold and arduous task. Accordingly, he sent his
mate back with six men, giving them instructions to free
the ship of the water with which she was burthened, and
signalize their success to him. If they did not succeed in
freeing the vessel, they were to hoist a signal, whereupon
the captain himself would proceed to their aid.

The next morning the signal was hoisted for his presence

284

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEBT.

rhji

on board the Resolute. Taking two men with him, and
leavinc the bark in charge of the second mate, the captain
started, on the 10th of Sentember, to the relief ot his
comrades. After a hard day's travelling over ice and
through pools of water, half frozen, the little party suc-
ceeded in reaching the Resolute in perfect safety.

He commenced immediately to search the vessel, in
order to ascertain if she was seaworthy. On descending
the hold it was found full of water to tlie floor of the first
deck, or about seven feet of water was discovered to be in
the ship. The pumps were then visited. One of them,
which was a force-pump of very great power, was rigged,
and the following morning was got in working order. A
gang of men were then set to work, and for three days the
pumps were kept going. Fourteen hours out of the
twenty-four were consumed in thus freeing the vessel.
On the third day all the water was cleared from the hold,
and the attention of the captain was turned towards extri-
cating the prize from the dangerous position she was then
placed in.

The appearance of things on board, as represented by
Captain IBuddington, when he had leisure to examine the
vessel, was doleful in the extreme. The cabin was strewed
with books, clothing, preserved meats, interspersed here
and there with lumps of ice. There was one thing, how-
ever, which struck Captain B. as being very remarkable,
and for which probably no satisfactory explanation can be
given ; and this was the presence of ice for several feet in
thickness on the larboard side, while there was not a par-
ticle on the starboard. The only argument that can be
presented to explain this curious freak of the elements is,
that the Resolute, lying with her head to the eastward
for probably more than a month, received the direct rays
of the sun on the starboard quarter, and nowhere else,
and thus a daily warmtli was imparted to this side of the
ship, while the other side, being without this heat, became
as solidified with ice as though the sun never shone on it.
There was scarcely anything on board the abandoned
vessel that was not more or less destroyed. There was a
great lack of fuel on board, although, in the course of the
search throughout the vessel, a little coal was discovered
in the hold, but the quantity was very small and entirely
inadequate to supply the vessel more than a week. Of pro-
visions there was enough perhaps to last a crew of seventy-
five men (the number originally carried by the Resolute)
for nine months. The salt meats were the only articles
that were at all in a state of preservation. Everything
had gone to decay. Even the ship's sails found between

THE BESOIUTE TJLKEN TO THE UNITED STATES. 285

h hitn, and
;he captain
lief of his
3r ice and
party suc-

vessel, in
descending
of the first
>ed to be in
le of them,
ffos rigged,
r order. A
ee days the
out of the
the vessel,
m the hold,
wards excri-
be was then

resented by
examine the
was strewed
persed here
thing, how-
remarkable,
Eition can be
veral feet in
18 not a par-
;hat can be
elements is,
le eastward
direct rays
•where else,
side of the
eat, became
shone on it.
abandoned
'here was a
•urse of the
discovered
nd entirely
ik. Ofpro-
of seventy-
e Itesolute)
nly articles
[Everything
d between

decks were so rotten that the sailors could thrust their
fingers through them like so much brown paper. An
attempt was subsequently made to rig a topmast studding
sail out of some of the canvas found saturated with water ;
but it blew out of the gearing, and was scattered to the
winds like chafi". The lower hold was found to contain
the library of one of the officers of the expedition, valued
at more than 200/. The books were entirely valueless
wlien discovered by Captain Buddington, and subsequently
thrown overboard as worthless rubbish.

The Resolute being entirely free of water, preparations
were made to bring the ship to the United States. Cap-
tain B. decided to sail the vessel himself, and accordingly,
taking eleven men with him from his own bark, he began
in good earnest to release the abandoned vessel from her
ice-bound situation. The rigging had to be hauled taut,
and the sails put in order, before he could venture to start.
This job occupied some time, but was successfully accom-
plished. Captain B. was in a great dilemma for proper
navigating instruments. His compass was verv uncertain,
and not at all trustworthy ; he was without a cnronometer,
and he had no other map or chart to steer by than a rough
outline of the great North American coast, drawn on a
sheet of foolscap. With his lever watch, a quadrant, and
a miserable compass, the brave fellow bade adieu to his
comrades in the bark George Henry ^ and trusting to Pro-
vidence and his experience in those latitudes, prepared to
bring home the pnze he had so cleverly won.

From the time that Captain Buddington took charge of
the Resolute, up to the 16th of October, she continued to
drive in a south-west direction, with the pack of ice, when
she succeeded in getting clear. Wishing to be in company
as long as possible with the bark, Captain B. waited outside
of the floe three days with the hope of meeting her ; but
the vessels missed one another, and did not meet again.

While waiting here for the George Henry, the British
bark Albert hove in sight, and, on being signalled, came
alongside the Resolute. The news of the recovery of the
Resolute was conununicated to Captain Stuart, of the Bri-
tish bark, and a pair of Captain !Kellet's epaulettes, found
on board the abandoned vessel, were entrusted to him by
Captain Buddington, with instructions to have them for-
warded to the owner as speedily as possible. A letter for
the owners of the George Henry, informing them of what
had occurred, was also placed in the hands of Captain S.,
who promised to mail it immediately on his arrival in Great
Britain. This letter reached the owners of the bark, at New
London, Connecticut, long before ihQ Resolute arrived there.

280

PROOUESS OP AnCTIO DISCOVERT,

'* i

(:'

■ «!

Short-lmiulod, ]i'>orly riirjjfod, niul iinfittod for tlio loncf
voya<;(! as the Retnth'te wns, Captain Uiuldiiij^toii found it
no easy task to briir.; the ship into port Tlif l)allast tanks
Imd burst in tlio hold Ion|X ht'lore he came in possession
of her, rendering iicr very light, and apt to roll heavily in
tho trouifh of the sea. Galo after gale was experienced ;

J rot tho brave fellow laboured day and night, and was at
aflt successful in tho praiseworthy eflbrt made to rescuo
tho abandoned vessel, driving across the mouth of North-
umberland Inlet down to Cape Elizabeth. Tho open sea
was gained, and on tho 20th of October the homeward
voyage commenced. After a succession of strong gales
and head winds, tho New London lighthouse was made on
tho 24th of December, and the voyage was successfully ac-
complished with credit to all concerned.

There was a period in tho history of the brief voyage
when the lives of all on board hung by a thread, as it
were. When a little to the north of the banks of New-
foundland, the Resolute came in contact with an iceberg
about 150 feet in height, on the top of which there was
a detached piece of ice of many tons weight, and which
the captain expected every moment would tumble down
npon tne vessel and sink the prize so gallantly obtained.
So ^reat was the danger, that the boats were all ia
readiness to push off, should the overhanging glacier be
precipitated upon them. However, after a great deal of
careful working and hard labour, the danger was cleared,
and the star of success once more shone brilliantly upon
the hardy and intrepid mariners.

On the part of the American Congress, a very graceful
act followed. It was resolved by the Senate and House
of Eepresentatives to appropriate a sum of 40,000 dollars
to the purchase of the Resolute^ with all the armament,
equipment, and property on board. This done, the ship
was moved into one of the navy -yards of the United States,
and there fully repaired and equipped, and then despatched
to England as an offering of goodwill and friendship from
the United States to Great Britain. On the 13th of No-
vember the Resolute commenced her homeward voyage,
and on the 12th of December sho reached Spithead. She
arrived under American colours, but as soon as she let go
her anchors, the English was run up alongside of the
American ensign. Every care has been taken that inge-
nuity could devise to replace everything on board in the
same condition as when the ship was abandoned by the
Arctic adventurers. The Resolute^ indeed, is, in all pro-
bability, as sound and seaworthy in every respect as when

tiesolutt: ptit: stinted to UT^TTisn c.ovkiinmf.nt. 2^7

f'ountl it
last tanks
possession.
Iioavily in
(orionced ;
nd waa at

to rescuo
of North-
open sea
homeward
ronj; calea
IS maao on
jssfuUy ac-

'ief voyage
iread, as it
[8 of New-
an iceberg
there was
and which
imble down
ly obtained,
were all in
; glacier be
reat deal of
vas cleared,
iantly upon

3ry graceful
and House

1,000 dollars
armament,
e, the ship
lited States,
despatched
idship from
3th of No-
trd voyage,
head. She
she let go
[side of the
. that inge-
loard in the
ned by the
in all pro-
ict as when

she snilodiii l8o2 from the IJriti.sh shores upon her lust I'olar
adventure.

Cnptiiin II. J. Ilurtstein, wlio broimlit her l»t)ine, was
the ollieer who went out to IJaHin's Hiiy in eiiavi;o of tUo
Ameriean relief expedition, for Dr. Ivune and iiis l>arly,
consisting of two vessels, the Arrdr and litlease. Theso
vessels left New York on the Ith June, 1H')5, and pene-
trated as fur as 78° 'Mlf north latitude, to Smith's Sound,
without seeing any of the party. But on returninii south-
ward to Lievely, or Good llaven, on the lUth Sepu-mber,
they were boarded by Dr. Kane in a boat, that oflicer
having abandoned his ship, the Advance, in 82^ Wt and
made his way southward over 1300 miles of ieo, bringing
back all but three of his party ; and those died fruii frost-
bites. Captain Hartstein, taking the adventurers on bourd^
set sail on the 13th September, and reached Kew York ou
the 11th October.

On the 20th December, Captain Hartstein and his ofBcers
were entertained at the Admiralty House by the Com-
mander-in-Chief, Sir George Seymour, K.C.B. ; the Ame-
rican Consul and Yice-Consul for the port and district, and
a gallant circle of naval ofBcers were among the guests.

The Captain paid a visit to the Premier, at Broadlands,
and returned charmed with the cordiality of his host. On
the 23rd he received a deputation from the Liverpool
Shipowners' Association, and in .reply to their address
made a neat speech*^

" To say that I feel honoured by this unmistakeable mark of your
consideration would but feebly express my sense of the compliment
which you have thus paid through me to the Government whose repre-
sentative I now have the honour to be. Meeting you as delegates tema
the shipowners of the greatest commercial city of the United Kingdom,
I rejoice at the kindly feeling thus manifested for a nation with whose
interests you are so intimately connected. In my present mission to
your Government, you can read the spirit of Americans towards tho
people of this country, and can easily believe that your happy allusioa
to the mutual bonds of origin and a community of feeling between us
will meet with a cordial response. The advancement of science and
the arts, to which both nations have, in a spirit of generous rivalry, so
greatly contributed, have changed our ancient geographical position.
Miles and seconds have become almost synonymous words, and now
the iron messengers of our commerce fly like steam shuttles, weaving
between us a fabric of mutual interest. May that spirit of friendly
emulation, enterprise, and enliglitened purpose, which has given to our
shipping interests the distinguislied place they occupy througliout the
Universe, ever continue."

The Mayor and Corporation of Portsmouth gave them a
grand banquet at the Portland Hotel, Southsea. Mr.

,j iiii:fc"f''

II.. . \',

V'i^

''Hi

288

PRO GUESS or aectic discoteet.

H. Grinnell, of New York, was an honoured guest ; and
a large and distinguished company were also assembled.

Mr. Croskey, the American Consul at Southampton,
made an excellent speech, one or two passages of which
arc worth placing on record ;

" Even in this act [the gift of the JlesoluteJ 'Rrgiand must find the
imprint of a kindred race ; and when called upon to point to that
which she considers her greatest honour, she can, like the mother of
the Gracchi of old, point with alTectionate pride to her now full-grown
olTspring — America — and say, ' In the vigorous growth of my child,
and in the high position she has attained in the family of nations, do
I And ray chief glory.' Yes, England should glory in America's pros-
perity. America rejoices when she hears of the increase of British
prosperity and the extension of British empire in a legitimate direc-
tion, for she knows that such extension is accompanied by those
emblems of civilization, the Bible, the newspajjcr, and the plough —
she knows that wherever the banner of St. George waves there will be
found freedom of opinion, freedom of speech, personal liberty, and that
universal benefactor of mankind— commerce ; and therefore she re-
joices. Why should not England also rejoice if new territory be placed
under the benign inllueucc of our institutions, which ensure like bene-
fits to the world at large, and give self-government to and develop the
natural resources of the countries that may join our Union ? The
world is large enough for both nations to fulfil their respective mani-
fest destinies without coming into conflict with each other. The East
seems peculiarly the field of action, wherein the civilizing duties of
England must continue to be employed. The West would appear to
be, both geographically and otherwise, the sphere in which America
rather than England should exercise the influence which the Anglo-
Saxon race have never failed to exercise amongst semi-barbarous
people, or over undeveloped countries. At all events, while the
feelings of the two countries are now warmed towards each other by this
happy event, it becomes the duty of both not only io foster the present
kindly feelings, but to adopt such course as will guard against any-
thing taat may tend to disturb them. Let us hear no more talk of
war between England and America. If the words should be uttered
or printed, let us reAise to hear them or to see them. Let each be
chary of the other's honour and feelings as our own."

The Queen and Prince Albert visited the ship, and, on
being presented to the Queen, Captain Hartstein addressed
her as follows : — " Allow me to welcome your Majesty on
board the Resolute, and, in obedience to the will of my
countrymen and of the President of the United States, to
restore her to you, not only as an evidence of a friendly-
feeling to your sovereignty, but as a token of love, admi-
ration, and respect to your Majesty personally."

The Queen seemed touched by the manly simplicity of
this frank and sailorlike address, and replied, with a gra-
cious smile, " I thank you, sir."

The royal party then went over the ship and examined
her with manifest interest.

In the course of explaining the chart to Prince Albert,

HECEPTTON AND ATTENTIONS TO HEE OFFICERS. 289

lest; and
embled.
thampton,
\ of which

nust find the
oint to that
he mother of
w full-grown
01" my child,
,f nations, do
nerica's pros-
ase of British
itimate direc-
lied by those
the plough—
3 there will be
icrty, and that
■refore she re-
itory be placed
iure like bene-
nd develop the
. Union ? The
jBpective mani-
lier. The East
izing duties of
?ould appear to
which America
lich the Anglc-
semi-barbarous

jnts, while the

ich other by this

[ster the present

against auy-

10 more talk of

,uld be uttered

Let each be

ship, aad, on
Ein addressed
t Maiesty on
[e will of my
led States, to
bf a friendly
If love, admi-

I simplicity of
with a gra-

Ind examined
[rince Albert,

the latter remarked that Lady Franklin was very desirous
of another expedition going out, to which Captain Hart*
stein replied, " that it did not surprise him, for he thought
it very possible that Franklin or some of his companions
might still be alive among the Esquimaux."

Captain Hartstein was invited by the Queen to dine and
to spend the night at Osborne ; and all the officers were
permitted to visit the palace and grounds, a privilege of
which they availed themselves. Among the stores found
in the Resolute were several puncheons of fine old rum,
which had been put on board in prime condition on her
leaving Woolwich for the Arctic regions. One of these
puncheons was sent by Captain Hartstein to Prince Albert
as a relic.

The Resolute was visited during her stay at Portsmouth
by Lady Franklin and her niece, and by Captain M'Clin-
tock, Captain Sadler, Captain Kichards, Lieutenant Pim,
and other Arctic explorers. On Christmas-day the whole
of the crew who brought her over were regaled with an
excellent dinner at the George Hotel, at the expense of
the British Government.

Having fulfilled the kindly mission on which they had
been sent. Captain Hartstein, his officers and crew, left on
their return for the United States, in the American steamer
Washington^ from Southampton, highly delighted with
their reception.

To use the words of a naval officer (Captain Becher) who
has paid much attention to the investigation from first to
last, —

The question of the North-west Passage, which has oc-
cupied the attention of this country for many years, has
at length been set at rest, and its discoverer, Sir Robert
M'Clure, has received his just reward. But few victories
of any kind are gained without their price ; so this conten-
tion with thick-nbbed ice in Arctic seas has cost us dearly
in the loss of Franklin and the gallant band of seamen by
whom he was accompanied. A strange fatality has fol-
lowed them. With all our efforts we have been unable to
succour them in their distress. The different routes which
they might have adopted to effect their object — the ever-
changing condition of the ice through which they had to
penetrate, now ari'esting their progress, and now encou-
raging it by a tempting lane — the risks, the delays, the
accidents to which all navigation is ever liable, — all these
have contributed to bewilder us in attempting to form a
conclusion as to where Franklin would most probably be
found, as to where or in what direction assistance should
be sent, and he left us nothing to guide ms.

290

PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT.

} -i-

N»

■•; ,H

■■,*"!

i I

The Beveral relief expeditions sent out to find him have
all lamentably failrd in their object, and the tidings of
the fate of the lost ones is meagre in the extreme. Bich
enough the voyai^es and journeys have been in their
contributions to geography, but sadly deficient in those
results for which mey were destined— the saving of Frank-
lin and his companions.

Although these efforts have unhappily not been crowned
with the success they deserved, they have nevertheless led
to the solution of the great geographical problem which
so long engaged the attention of the world, and have thus
secured to our country an honourable distinction in the
accomplishment of an enterprise which through successive
reigns and for nearly three centuries had heretofore baf-
fled every attempt.

In December, 1856, a memorial was presented to the
Lords of the Admiralty, by Dr. King and Lieutenant
Pim, asking for a final e^editioii, which sets out as fol-
lows : —

" Mt Lords, — That season of the year is rapidly approaching when
the icy fetters of the Arctic regions are loosened, and the Polar Sea is
open to a further search for the remains of the Franklin expedition.
Gigantic exertions Iiave been already made, but in all these vast efforts
there has been a want of comprehensiveness, which it has since been
proved could only result in utter failure.

" But traces have been found — death traces, it is to be deplored —
of the gallant Sir J. Franklin and his noble band : traces that point to
the whereabouts of the missing ships which sailed with so much glory
to carry out the scientific survey propounded by your lordships. Since
these traces have been found, your lordships have taken no steps to-
wards a full and comprehensive i^earch. and until your lordships shall
follow up these traces to the uttermost, we venture respectfully to state
oiu* opinion that a stain is stamped on our national honour. We,
therefore, implore your lordships to take into your consideration a
comprehensive plan, which we now lay before you, and which we
maintain contains within itself elements of success, such as have not
been before brought under your lordships' notice. We propose to
make a combined effort by sea and by land — by sea, through Barrow's
Strait and down Peel's Sound ; by land, across the continent of Ame-
rica and down Gr.;at Fish River — meeting at the magnetic pole.
Upon the sea expedition it is proposed to use a small screw steamer,
and upon the land journey bark canoes."

Lieutenant Pim in a pamphlet gives an epitome of the
case, and the renewed efibrts to which in his opinion it
ought to lead —

" 1. That the fate of the Franklin expedition has not been ascer>
tained. 2. That not a particle of evidence exists to prove the death
of even one man since the ships left Beechey Island. 3. That tlie
space to be searched being limited to a very small area by exploration
in every other direction, one season would suffice to clear up all doubt.
And 4. That, above all, tliere is great hope of finding survivors. Such

'f-'-^v.-^

FURTHEB SEAHCIT MOOTED.

291

idings of
le. Bich

in their

in those
of Frank-

a crowned
theless led
lem whicli

have thus
tion in the

successive
jtofore baf-

ited to the
Lieutenant

i out as fol-

poaching when
le Polar Sea is
in expedition,
lese vast efl'orts
has since been

be deplored—
>s that point to
80 much glory
^ships. Since
en no steps to-
lordsliips shall
ctfully to state
honour. VVe,
xjnsideration a
and which we
ch aa have not
kVe propose to
rough Barrow 8
inent of Ame-
magnctlc pole,
screw steamer,

litome of the
^8 opinion it

(JOT been a8cer«
Irove the death
\ 3. That the
[by exploration
U up all doubt,
[rvivors. Such

being the . ise, it is asked— 1. Whether it is not n dishonour to permit
uncertainty upon this purely national queation, and to allow the
honoured names of Frmtiklin, Crozier, and othcrn to be branded with
cannibalism ? 2. Whether it is not an iniperative duty to collect
every record of the suflTerings of this heroic band, to form a page in
history for the instruction of £Dglaud'8 future sons ? 3. Whether it is
not consistent with the character of Englishmen to finilHii what has
been begun, and not to leave a very sinall space unexplored as a per-
petual reproach, eepeclallj when that small space is kiunon to contain
the secret which the nation has so long tried in vain to solve? And,
lastly, whether the public will allow themselves to be stigmatized as
wanting in ' gratitude, faith, and honour' towards those heroic men
■who willingly imperilled their lives for their country's glory, by leaving
n doubt whether their fate be almost worse than death — slavery
amongst the Esquimaux? The sentiments of our Transatlantic
brethren on this subject are well known, and the res^torution of the
Jiesolute complete for Arctic service is a most significunt hint. "

Besides these considerations, it was urged tliat the
honour of the greatest of naval powers would be dimmed
and, tarnished if, after sending out so many costly expedi-
tions into indefinite fields of search, it neglected to make
this further small effort in a locality wliich is definite and
well ascertained ; that the question of whether Franklin
had not discovered the only available north-west passage
is involved in the procedure ; and that it is desirable to
remove, if possible, the imputation which the story nar-
rated to Dr. Kae casts upon the memory of those who
are alleged to have perished on Montreal Island — namely,
that the condition of the bodies and the contents of the
kettles showed that they had finally resorted to cannibalisuL

A memorial signed by thirty-six eminent scientific men.
was presented to Lord Palmerston in the summer of 3866,
urging him, on the comprehensive grounds which were
stated in the document, to despatch another expedition ** to
satisfj' the honour of our country, and to clear up a mystery
which lias excited the sympathy of the civilized world."

Besides the scientific men of this country, the learned
and venerable Baron Alexander Yon Humboldt hxi ex-
pressed his interest in and warm approval of a " last efibrt"
being made to " clear up the mystery which has excited
the sympathy of the civilized world." In a letter to Lieu-
tenant Pim, dated December 9, 1856, he says —

" Is it possible that, after so many generous sacrifices made by two
nations of the same race, having in tlieir possession part of the pro-
perty known to belong to those victims of t^hipwreck — after having
reduced to such a small space the country to be searclied — is it pos-
sible, I repeat, that they do not add a last effort, perilous as is every-
thing great and hazardous, for the solution of this sorrowful problem?
Geography, and even the physical knowledge of the globe, has been
immensely advanced by what lias been already done, but there remains

(<;

292

PROGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOTERT.

a moral end to gain. There ia in this enterprise an interest of senti>
ment and of consanguinity with those we desire to save derived from
a source far above all science — a sentiment w^'^cU ennobles and con«
soles at the same time."

ii:''»j

!'.' ■*!:

i '•■

Failing in moving the Government to any further
efforts, Lady Frankhn determined to despatch at her own
private cost the expedition under Captain M'Clintock, the
Buccessful result of which I have already recorded.

The observations which I ti;:^de in the Preface to tLv
eighth edition of this work, pttoJiished in 1857, may be re-
produced here, since the premction has been fully verified :

" Very little more will probably have to be added to the
scroll or Arctic Discovery. We may possibly hereafter
obtain some more full details as to how long Franklin and
his followers clung to their ships ; where they abandoned
them ; and how the survivors prosecuted their journey to
the mainland ; and, one by one died of starvation. These
particulars may by chance be discovered through some
stray journal, found by some bold adventurer undertaking
the search. But we can hope for nothing more. The
chart of the Arctic regions is no longer a blank ; we have
at least filled up the coast outlines of the American con-
tinent and its adjacent straits and bays ; and thus much
has been gained for Science, allhaugh at a heavy outlay
and fearful risk. These laurels can at least be wreathed
round Britannia's sceptre."

Of the many heroes of Arctic history mentioned in
these pages, most have achieved for themselves a high
reputation, and rapid promotion has followed their perilous
services. Some have received more distinguished honorary
and pecuniary rewards, and a few have passed away from
this transitory world — among the latter may be enumerated
Sir Edward Parry, Sir Jomi Eoss, and Sir John Eich-
ardson, Lieutenant Hooper, and Lieutenant Kane of the
American Navy.

An obelisk of Aberdeen granite has been erected in front
of the Eoyal Naval Asylum, at Greenwich, to the memory
of the gallant Lieutenant J. Bellot, of the French Eoyal
Navy, on which the following inscription appears :-«

" To the intrepid young

Bellot,

Who in the endeavour to rescue

Franklin

Shared the fate and the glory of that

Illustrious Navigator.

From his British admirers.

1858."

U ,1

HONOURS AND BEWABDS.

293

8t of senti-
srived from
i8 and con*

y further
,t her own
Qtock, the
jd.

ice to tUv
nay be re-
y verified :
Ided to the
r hereafter
ranklin and
abandoned
journey to
on. These
ough some
indertaking
more. The
t; we have
aerican con-
Ithus much
keavy outlay
be wreathed

entioned in
Ives a high
iieir perilous
Led honorary
I away from
enumerated
.John Bich-
JKane of the

Lcted in front
[the memory
Irench Eoyal
}ars;—

Dr. Bae and his party have received the Government
reward of 10,000/. offered for the discovery of the fate of
Franklin, and Captain Collinson 5,000/. for making in effect
the North-west passage. See ante^ p. 186.

In the early part of this work, I have alluded to the zeal
of the late Sir John Barrow in promoting Arctic discovery,
and his energy, anxiety, and zeal have been more than
equalled by his son. In appreciation of the esteem and
affection in which Mr. John Barrow is held, some
forty of the leading Arctic explorers presented him, in
June, 1856, with a very handsome testimonial bearing the
following inscription: —

" To John Barrow, Esq , F.R.S., F.R.G.S., etc.

" In grateful remembrance of his kindness and attention, and as an
acknowledgment of liis valuable exertions in furtherance of the search
for Sir John Franklin and his companions, an object which he
pursued with hereditary ability, energy, and devotion, this token is
presented by several of tlie officers employed in the Arctic Searching
Expedition, 1818-54."

About the same time an elegant and costly testimonial
was also presented to Captain Sir Bobert M'Clure by a
number of officers of the Boyal Navy, in admiration of his
intrepidity and perseverance in penetrating through the
Polar Ocean in search of Franklin, which led to the solu-
tion of the important geographical problem of the discovery
of the North-west Passage, and nas rendered his name
illustrious in the naval annals of the British empire. The
testimonial consists of a winged figure of Fame standing
on tiptoe on the part of the globe representing the Polar
seas, and in the act of blowing a trumpet. It is exquisitely
carved in frosted silver, and stands on an ebony pedestal,
which bears «n appropriate inscription commemorating the
services of the gallant Arctic navigator, and the motives in
which the testimonial originated.

Captain M'Clure, besides being knighted, has received
the gold medals of the Boyal Geographical Societies of
England and France. A similar scientific compliment was
paid to Captain Inglefield and Dr. Kane.

The voyage of the Enterprise and Investigator, eastward
from Behring's Strait along the shores of Arctic America,
has opened out a new field for commercial speculation, and
thrown open to navigation the whole of the northern aliores
of America, of which our enterprising Transatlantic
brethren — whose hundred sail of whale-ships have, during
the last few years, fished in Behring's Strait — will doubt-
less take advantage.

' 1

294 PBOOBESS OF ABOTIC DISCOTEBY.

The following tabulated statement is appended as a close
to the volume, and as a ready reference to the names and
dates of the seyeral expeditions ; more full details of which
have already been given :—

John Kobs, Isabella and Alexander 1818

BucHAN and Franklin, Dorothea and Trent . . ISIS

Franklin: First Land Expedition 1819-21

Fahry, Hecla and Chriper 1819-20

Parrt, Fury and Uecla 1821-23

Lyon, Griper 1824

Parry, Hecla and Fury 1824-25

Franklin : Second Land Expedition 1825-27

Bcchan, ^tossow 1826-28

John Boss, Victory 1829-33

Back : Land Expedition 1833-35

Back, Terror 1836-37

Dean and Simpson : Boat Expedition 1836-89

Bae : Boat Expedition 1846-47

Franklin, Erebut and Terror 1845-46

SUBSEQUENT SEABCHINO EXPEDITIONS TO SSTEBMINE

THEIB FATE.

James Boss, Enterprise and Iwoestiyator .... 1848-49

BicHARDSON : Boat Expedition ....... 1848-49

Moore, Plover 1848-52

FuLLEN: Boat Expedition 1849-51

Hooper ; Boat Expedition ........ 1849-50

Saunders, North Star 1849-50

Forsyth, Prince Albert 1850

Coxjjiivsov, Enterprise 1850-55

WCiAJRi:, Investigator 1850-54

Austin, Resolute, Assistance, Intrepid, and Pioneer 1850-51

John Boss, Felics 1850-51

Fenny, Lady Franklin and Sophia 1860-51

De Haven and Kane, Advance and Bescue . . . 1850-61

Kennedy (Bellot), Prince AUbert 1851-52

Ba£: Land Expedition 1851-54

Maquire, Plover 1852-54

Belcher, Assistance and Pioneer 1852-54

Kellett, Besolute and Intrepid 1852-54

FULLEN, A'br/A Stor 1852-54

Kane, Advance 1853-55

M'Clintock, Fox . ...••.•••• .» 1857-59

THB BND.

EI3 a close
lines and
, of which

1818

1818
L819-21
1819-20
1821-23

1824
1824-25
1825-27
1826-28
1829-33
1833-35
1836-37
1836*89
1846-47
1845-46

ITEBMINE

1848-49
1848-49
1848-52
1849-51
1849-50
1849-50
1850
1850-55
1850-54
1850-51
1850-51
1850-51
1850-51
1851-62
1851-54
1852-54
1852-54
1862-54
1852-54
185S-55
1867-6*

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