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irv 
 
 
 THIO ILLUSTKATi:i) AMKRICAX. 
 
 M \Ki II 5, 1.S9.S. 
 
 Unknown Vancouver Islaiul. 
 
 i'ff^-y 
 
 I!v Arihi l< 
 
 N till' last itimiry aliliniij;li X'aindUMr 
 Island was npwuhly siirviyi-i! h\ C'a|)tain 
 C'lidk ami nmri' llinrouj^hly by \'aii- 
 (•iiu\cr. it \v;is iHVcr tia wised fnun I'lul 
 tufiid. nr ircpssfd Irmn (ast m wrsi, until 
 ri'Ciiuly. 
 ,f^if-'l\\K siasdus a)j;(i an i'X|>fditinn uiukr 
 ; tlu- Kcv. W. W. Holtnn startid Imni 
 Cape CiininuTcll, the nnrthiriiniost point 
 nf thf island, and pinclratid as far as 
 Weiss Lake, where the lateness dl the 
 ^e.isiin eninpilled il to turn back. 
 
 )n the I'diirth of July, two years Liter, 
 a seeoiid eNjiIorini,; p.irty. delerniiiied to 
 eonipUte the work, laiuled at Ldrniorant 
 Isk', on the east eoast of \'an(on\ir 
 Is'.md. This second |)art\ consisted of 
 live members : the Kev. W. W. ISolton, 
 leader; Mr. J. W . l.aini;. formerly president of the Oxford liii- 
 versitv .\thletic Cliib, provide r of tlie funds ; Kleniinji of \'ictoria, 
 photoi;rapher ; Jones of Seattle, guide, and ("lareer, also of 
 Se.ittle, cook. From Alert Hay tiiey crossed to th^ mainlaiul 
 in c.moes. ;\\u\ l>arnained w ill) it;ih-ii'o-i;lass, chief of the Nimp- 
 keesh Indians, to pole them up the rapids of the Nimpkeesh 
 Ki\er. .\ftt'r Laboriously polini; and draxginv;- their canoe up 
 fourteen r.apids, Nimpkeesh Lake was reached, and under saiL 
 with .1 good bree/.e, was (jiiickly tniversed. Camp was pitched 
 at the entrance to the Kla-anch River, ii|i the itirbukiU w.iicrs 
 of which the explorers foui;ht their way for twelve hours. .\i 
 a plai'e to which they ijave the name " Hell's Ciate," the rocks 
 on either side of the river rose hiyjh and frowniniL;. so that the 
 w.iter boiled and seethed as they rushed throiiijli the narrows. 
 For the next two tlays there was a continual slrui^s^le with the 
 rapids of the Kia-;UK'h Ki\er. the white men jiimpini;' in and 
 out of the boat at the command of the Indian boatmen to haul 
 on the ro|)e attached to its bow. 
 
 Hy the evening;' of the secoiul d.iy the exjilorers reached the 
 fork of the Kla-anch with the Koona Koona Siteh, and, wearied 
 by their exertions, were i;!ad to make camp, des|)ite rain, wet 
 srroimd. and countless i;nats and mosijuitoes. 
 
 Next (lav the 
 
 KoW si. 1,1. A' III; 
 
 INKI Ksl I V. 
 
 t .moe v,.is nnioaded and ilie stores packed upstream, the water 
 beinj; too low to llo.it the laden bo.it. The wlloled;iy was spent 
 in |)olin.i.j ;ind li.iiilini; on the ro|)e. Several limes loi,j-i.ims wire 
 encoiiiilc red, and oiu' of these, dirictlv' across the stream, had 
 to be cut through with axes. 
 
 I>y noon W'oss Kiver was sij^hied, and then tlu lndi;iiis, 
 lhou),dl they had coiUr.icliil to conduct the jiarty to the hea<l 
 of Woss Lake, refused to jiole a foot ftiriher, sayini.; that the 
 water was too low to permit of further prfii;ri'ss. 'I'he natives 
 are all disinclined to gc' '"'" 'l'"^' interior of the islanii and pene- 
 trate the unknown forest. .\ri;iimeni provinii;' useless, they 
 were paid off and jMnvided for their return journey. .After 
 lhe\ li.id got well away it was discovered lh;it they had t.ikm 
 with them the entire supply — about thirty iiounds^ — of bacon. 
 It wris ho|ieless to pursue them; so, after a hasty liiiuh, with- 
 out ine.at, and in somewhat depressed spirits, the ti\e tnidi;ed 
 olf across the hij^liLinds tow.ird Woss L.ikc, carryin;^; all their 
 possessions in jiacks iiiion their backs. .\t first they found it 
 despenitelv h.ard work to pack heavy lo.ads ihrotiiiih thick 1111- 
 
 1 'i| I'M, II' I HI-. M. \- AM II Kl\ KN. 
 
 derijrowth, over fallen trees ;tnd across half-hidden jiools, and 
 after half a tlay of slow proi.;ress they threw themselves and 
 their packs down on the xroiind and waited for the darkness, 
 that they miiLjht sleep .iiid forijet their Labor;!. Next morninij, 
 aw.ikened by swarms of mos(|nitoes. they soon found that the\ 
 had camped within ;i mile of Wdss Lake, which the rcu'lud 
 after a toils(pme strui;A;le throuiL;h an area of burnt timber land. 
 The afternoon w.is spent in constructing; a r.ift, which b\- 
 evcniii;,;' w.as nearly completed. liut next morninu; a g-'de blew 
 from the iiead of the L.ike, ;md the raft Ihirv /I'liis could 
 m.ike no headway. .\t sundown the wind luiled, and thev 
 went aboard, ditermineil. even in pitch darkness, to get to the 
 heail of the Lake. For the first i>vo hours tlie waves washed 
 over the raft, and drenched the men, but they jicrsevered. .'iikI. 
 after the swell had ijone down, poled .ilcinj; in toler.able com- 
 fort. Not darini; to ijet out into the open Lake, tluv hiii^ncd 
 the shore, soundiiiik; the points and lu'.iillands. .\t 2:30 A.M. 
 they reached the he.id of the Lake, liijhted ,1 tire on the 
 shinj^rly beach, ;md Lay down just as thev were. < in awakmiL; 
 next morniny; .1 i;lorious \iew discloseci itself: to rii^ht ;mil 
 left were ),;r,ind mountains, and before them the Kowse j^lacier, 
 from which a milky stream ran into the L.ike. In this beiuti- 
 liil siiot thev rested for tweiitv-four liouis ,ificr their recent 
 
 ihoioj^r.iplu r xipI up early in the morniliy; 
 
 excrlioiis. '11 
 
 and was rewarded In c,il( hiiii; .i •^ln\^\ sU'my, ipf be.autifni 
 trout which ,ire not only \ir\ .ibundant ai this rei;ion, but 
 iL;,imier iIi;p i in most p'.ices. 
 
 The lirst explormi; |iarly h.ixin;,^ peiutrati 
 Woss Lake, the real wiirk of the L.iiii'' i),irl 
 
 to Ir;i\erse the iplle 
 
 iimdr 
 
 l\ I Hi;, I 
 
 II III It 
 
 VI /. 
 
 cil miles ol untrcpiWieii interior Iviiv^ 
 
 between Woss L,ik( and (•cat I'entral Lake. Il In iiii;, how- 
 ever, impossible to penetrate so far iiitip iinknipwn c<pimir\ with- 
 out meat, a i)lan was fcprmed by which .Mr. Iloliipii .and Mr. |ones 
 should clldeivor to reach lUlltle's |.;iki-. whi'e the rest (pf the 
 
 k^', 
 
 i. Hm-f\ 
 
 
5. iS'jS- 
 
 , till- water 
 
 w as spint 
 
 -jams \\\rv 
 
 iR-aiii. luul 
 
 K liulians, 
 lo the lit ad 
 \^\r tlial the- 
 lla- I'.alivis 
 1 ami iHiu'- 
 -cliss. ilicy 
 u-y. AIUT 
 \' liad takm 
 _(i( hai'dii. 
 iiiuh, wilh- 
 I'lvc tnnliuitd 
 nij; all liu'ir 
 hey fiiiMid it 
 ill thick tir.- 
 
 MAKi'M 
 
 1 
 
 rii pDiils, and 
 iiiisflvcs and 
 ic daikniss, 
 ^cM indininit- 
 uiul that thi-y 
 Uu- rcaclu-d 
 tiniluT land. 
 It, whii'h by 
 ■^ A i^ak' l)K-w 
 /(i/!is ciiiild 
 1(1. and thi-y 
 til Jilt to tin- 
 avcs washed 
 sivtri-d. and, 
 nU-rabk' emii- 
 tlu y hiii,'!L;i*d 
 \t :': .V5 A ^i- 
 
 I the im the 
 ( )n awakinv; 
 
 til ly^^lit and 
 
 isiiwse i;lai'ier. 
 
 n this heallti- 
 
 r their recent 
 
 the ninrniiiK. 
 
 ; ,.f beaiilifn' 
 
 revjiiin, bill 
 
 ;hr head ol 
 
 i;an lure, vi/.., 
 
 mterinr lyiii;,; 
 
 it beinu. hnw- 
 
 II eciuntry with- 
 1 and Mr. Jnius 
 
 llir re-il nt the 
 
 I .S<>,S. 
 
 TlIK ILLrSTRATKl) A M i:i>! KW \. 
 
 ^95 
 
 IM>1 \N 1 \Ni>l. Al All K I I; \\ . 
 
 should make its \\;iy to the western euast to tjet sup- 
 jiiiii. So they crossed the lake, made one camp, and. shouhl- 
 erinji tlieir packs, addressed themselves to the task of i rossini; 
 the ridvjf that intervened between them ;nid the coast. Alter 
 ' ' )f 2,ooo feet, Mr. llolton severely woundetl a 
 The partv was lo have broken 
 
 jiartx 
 plies. 
 
 n;imin'4' a level o , 
 bear, but failed to .secure hini. 
 up on the siinunit of tht.' dividing raimc, three jioiny; down the 
 'I'ahsis Kiver to the ocean, and two ilimbin;,; the hiiiCii mountain- 
 side, hopiniL;' to descend by some i;ulch to liuttle's Lake. Hut, 
 as they were by too heavy |)a<'ks, it seemed out 
 to siale till- rani;e. So tilcy 
 with the others to tile ocean, 
 
 handicappei 
 
 of tile (|uestion for liie two last 
 
 resolved t(j journey in conipain 
 
 "or two days tlle cotu'se 
 It its moutii a deserted 
 fr.iil cmoe .ind two 
 
 r\M|' i.\ II 
 
 i 
 
 and. .ivjain shoulilerinK tlieir packs, started til) '''^' '"'' "' •' 
 rivir, which now bears the name of I.aiiivT. Steadily eiiiiii)inv;- 
 for two days tliey readied the to|) of the di\i<linvj ranye ix'twecn 
 the Nootka reifion and the Connuma I'e.ik district. 'Hienee 
 from a lieii,dit of 4,000 feet they descended down simw slides 
 and over ledges, crossing and recrossiiii; streams, until at 
 lenv;tli they came to .Miicli;ilat Sound and tlie c.innery of tlic 
 West Coast I'ackinij L'omp.iny. < Mi tlie morrow nine d;i\s' 
 provisions were packed U|) to siip]ily the |);irty to liuttle's Lake. 
 I'.iddlini; to the liiiid of Muchalat Sound, a i)road stream, named 
 l!ast ki\er, was eiitereti, up which tlie p.icks were sent in the 
 canoe 111 the care of Joih'S, the rest struvis^linii as best they 
 could aioiiij the l)anks, tlirou;,di tiiick imderbrusii and devil's 
 club. Tlie i)ro;,;ress of tiie canoe beiiijif stopped by a rapid, 
 the entire party pressed on tlirouvjli a forest of liemlock u)) to :i 
 lake 4, 5<K) feet abo\e sea level, and thence to ;i heiijiit of 6,000 
 feet. 
 
 Mefore lea\inij \ ictori;i .irr.innements li;id bee 11 matle for 
 rel.iy p,irties to c.irry supjilies to liuttle's Lake and (Ireat Cen- 
 
 tral Lake. 
 
 Iltittl 
 
 I.ak 
 
 ike was reached on July 30. liut a j;un 
 
 lired met Willi no response. 1 Ins was discouratjin),;, as pro- 
 visions were bei(innin.i; to run short. .So, having deterniiiied 
 to hurry out as rapidly as possiiile to the east coast, lliey went 
 down on a raft to the foot of the lake, .•itld thence proceeded in 
 
 resolved UJ lourney in coni])ain wiiii uie oiiieis 10 me oeeaii, 
 and make a fresii start from .Much.-ilat Sound, an arm of tiie 
 sea runnini,;- out of Nootka Sound f;ir up into tl- interior o| 
 the island. 
 
 ( )n a hot, clear day the e.\|)lorers l)e'.^aii to des< end the slopes, 
 sliding, f.illi.m, tumblinv; down, and axailiiii; theiiisehes of the 
 tr.tils left bv elk, bear and deer. ,\t evenin.i;' they camped .at 
 the head of the 'I'ahsis \'alley. in a lovely i^dade tiiickly cir- 
 peted witii ferns and mosses, and next d.'iy found traxeliiiv; 
 alonn' the valley comp.aratively easy. 
 of tlle 'I'ahsis Kiver was followed, am 
 
 Indian ranclierie was lound. With 
 
 p.iddles captured lure, .Mi. Iloltoii and .\lr. Jones made their w.iy 
 for tliirty miles to Frieiidh- Cove, a setllenienl of Nootka In- 
 dians, where they were welcomed by tin storekee])er. .\ line 
 canoe and two stalwart Indians were eiix,med to i,;(i up the 
 Tahsis Kiver and brini; down the rest of tiie p.irty. Lriendly 
 Cove is inlerestinii; as luinii;- the sjioi where X'aiicouver landed 
 lo take over the island from the Spaniards in 171;!, ;iml the 
 present chief, .Mi()uiniia, is a descdid.inl of the MdHiinna 
 whom X'ancouver met on friemlK terms. To impress the new 
 arrivals, the ciiief ilonneil a llritisli uniform, presented to him 
 by a post-captain of a man-of-war. 
 
 From I''rieiidly Cove tlie party s.iiled up the Tlupan.i .\rm, ij 
 
 UN nil. Ko.Mi |. 
 
 ,111 easterlv direction. ( )n .Auj^ust I they had eaten .ilmost 
 their last morsel of food, am' "he lirst yunslmt tired to an- 
 nounce their .irriv.il met with .1 reph. .\ second shot, how- 
 ever, was answered by a rille's sharp crack, and soon the e\- 
 lilnrinij ;uid supi)ly p.irties were united. It was then .ascer- 
 t.iiiieci that the supply party ii.id bee n < aiiiped for live clays in 
 the s.uiie spot, and had made some unsuccessful attempts to ifet 
 iiciier to liuttle's L.ake. They returneil to.nellier to the lake, 
 which they c.-trefully examined, correctiiiii;- some mist; es as to 
 its shape •nd extent. 
 
 From iiuttle's Lake the supply party returiu-d to the east 
 co;ist, ;uid the ni;iin jiarty bewail ;in;iin to climb up, till they 
 Were more than 7,000 feel above sea level. At this heiiilit 
 llu-v were enveloped in ;i dense foj; ami were comiielled to w.iit 
 uillil it cleared ;iwa\. .\s soon ;is it did so they climbed up 
 500 feet more and j;ained an altitude of 7,800 feet, '.he liii;liest 
 ,ataineil on the trip. 'I Ium- pe.iks are nameil Celllriil Cra.^s, 
 and comm.ind ,1 \:ew of liuttle's I., ike to the north ami ol a 
 lari^e \)>h\\ ol w.iter I'eiitr.il L.ike- to the soutli. The di- 
 sceiit oi'cupied twn days, and on arriviiii,; at tlle shore ol I'ire.it 
 Ceiitr,il Lake it w;is found that the second supply party Had 
 already been live days in camp. .\ few jileasaiil days were 
 spent there in restim;-, trout tishiiiiL;. .iiid eiiioxim; tlle superb 
 >eener\. Then C.reat Central Lake, which is tliirty miles loiiv;, 
 w.is tr.nersi'd in a canoe, the party stoppiui,; for a short time 
 when three miles from the lieail of the lake to e.xamine and 
 |)hotov;r;ipli some stranv;e hieroj^lyphics carved upon a rock. 
 Thou,i;h of lnri;e si/e, no oiu' could make aiiythiii'^ out ol them. 
 
296 
 
 TIIK ILIA'STRATKI) AMKRICAX. 
 
 M\K( ti"5, 1898. 
 
 (IN UliSS lAKK. 
 
 ,\ MiiKNIM 
 
 All II cil IKiill. 
 
 The photograph has been sent to I'rofessor lioas of the Smith- 
 sonian Institute, who is a iitreat authority ii|)(iii the lore of the 
 \'ancouver Islaml Iiuiians. At the heat! of tlie lake the Stamps 
 River was entered, and soon af- 
 terward the Alberni Kiver and 
 a lagoon, wliere the jLirty an- 
 chored their eanoe and entered 
 the woods. On .August 14 they 
 reached .Alberni, where some 
 time was spent in examining the 
 gold mines for which that region 
 is rapidly becoming famous. 
 t'From .Mberni a journey of 
 fifty-si.x miles took them to Na- 
 naimo, whence it is a railroad 
 trip of eighty-four miles to X'ic- 
 toria, the capital of British Co- 
 lumbia. To these distances are 
 to be added 24.0 miles by steamer 
 to Alert Bay, 200 miles by canoe 
 and raft, and 1 15 miles on foot, 
 making a total of dg^ miles. 
 
 In summing uj) the explorers' 
 impressions of the country trav- 
 ersed, it may be said that it is .1 
 m.ass of mountain-ranges thrown 
 together in the wildest c(jnfusion. 
 of glaciers, Ixnilders, snow-cap- 
 ped peaks, rushing streams, and 
 numerous waterfalls. There is 
 
 not much large or valuable timber, and slate and marble, 
 though abundant, .arc found in utterly inaccessible spots. But 
 for the hunter and the tisherman Northern .ind Centr.il \',in- 
 
 '•^.*^ 
 
 
 
 
 .V ' ' t ' < 
 
 l,K \\ I N \KI' \ I Ml K I II \S 
 
 comer Isl.ind is ,1 |).ir;i(lise; while for the lover of line and 
 rugged scenery then is .1 constant series of delights .ind sur- 
 ])rises in store. .Mreadv there is a tendeivy noticeable among 
 
 s|)ortsmen all over the worki to 
 seek the coinp.irative solitudes 
 of the extreme western |)arts of 
 this continent. .After ,1 man has 
 luintedin India, .Australia. South 
 .Africa and the Balkan fastnesses 
 he tloes not, as of yore, consiiier 
 himself a true graduate of the 
 college of N'imrod. He pines 
 lor th'- society of the puma and 
 the grizzlv. or cannot die con- 
 tent till he h;is l.iid low, at least, 
 one lordly buffalo of the fast 
 diminishing herd. Hence, he 
 sets out for the West, ;md, once 
 having ac(iuired .1 feeling of a.sso- 
 ci.ition with western wilder- 
 nesses, he seems to yield to 
 some spell that calls him again, 
 year .after ye.ir. to the same 
 li.uiiits. The f.iscin.ition of the 
 forest for il'ic n,iliir;il m,in, great 
 everywhere, is evidently greater 
 in these regions. Why it should 
 be is perhaps not so much of a 
 riddle in reality as it looks at 
 first blush. The fact is, these 
 regions are fresher, more virginal, more strange, amid their 
 vastiicss, 1 leiice, they lure and rehire the adventurous explorer, 
 .uiil m.ike him .-in eiuhiisi.astic advei'iiscr of their charms. 
 
 1 
 
 ■"xo^J 
 
 A Monarch of the Mist. 
 
 "11 T'RITIl me." said the I'.ditor, ■•three hundred and 
 \/W twenty worils. I want them to till up a blank sp.ice." 
 "I saw yesterdiiy," said I, ".about three hun- 
 dred and twenty words worth in Mailison S(|iiare (iarden. You 
 remember, it was the last of a series of cold, wet days, with 
 a Scotch mist, and the p.ivemeiit seeming to exude ice-water. 
 "As I passed through ih;' . o.asis, beautitul even in winter, I 
 lingered for a moment to admire its spouting geyser. 1 then 
 observ('d th.it there w.is but one person sealed on a bench in 
 the park. That person w.is an old wom.iii p.ist seventy. .Around 
 her narrow shoulders was pinned an ,iiiti(|ue shawl of the vin- 
 tage of the early twenties, fashioned in imit.ition of ye ancient 
 camel's hair. On her nose sat iron-rimmed spectacles, r.im- 
 pant. In one hand she grasped an .apple, which she occa- 
 sionally [K-cked at. In the other she held an evening paper at 
 a goodly flistance. so as to focus the type correctly. Beneath 
 
 her feet, soggy but non-conducting, w.is .1 Sunday news- 
 )).iper. The old creature's expression w,is kindly ,iiid intelligent. 
 She was absorbed in the news. .Around her unprotected he.id 
 of snow-whiti' hair the steel-cold mist formed ;in aureole. The 
 sh.ulowy cabmen were tla|)ping in the distance, sl.i|)ping them- 
 sehi's to kee|) warm. N.iught disturbed her reg.il c.ilm. 
 
 "The geyser spouted mi-rrily with the imei|ual spurts that 
 constitute its greatest ch.irm ,iiul under it the most (U'lightfni 
 founi.iin in the ( ity. I thotighl of Kiith ;md Tom I'incli, in 
 • M.irtin C'hu//lewit.' They used to meet .at the fountain in 
 Temple I'ourt, you remember. Weaving short rom.ances in my 
 mind, 1 glanced ag.iin ,at the old Kady silting in solitary state. 
 
 "Talk about .Ameriean Uoyallies anil ( hieeiis of Holland 
 Dames I " said I to the geyser. " Surely, this is the <)ueen of 
 .\pple Marys." 
 
 " Whv don't vou write it ? ' said the I'.ditor. 
 
Ri m',. i8y8. 
 
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 -m'^m'^ 
 
 £.-'#€''' 
 
 mmm 
 
 mmfmmmmm 
 
 W 
 
 cr of tine and 
 ■liv;hts and sur- 
 liicabk- among 
 .'!• tlu' world to 
 ativf solitudes 
 csti-rn |)arts of 
 \ftfr a man has 
 Uistralia, South 
 ilkan fastnt'sses 
 f vore, ronsider 
 radualL' of the 
 od. He pines 
 
 the puma and 
 aiinol die con- 
 id low, at least, 
 lo of the fast 
 I. Hence, he 
 Vest, ami, once 
 I feel ills'; of asso- 
 estern wilder- 
 is to yield to 
 :alls him again, 
 to the same 
 s('iii;itii)ii of the 
 ural man, ijreat 
 viiiently n'feater 
 
 Why it should 
 t so much of a 
 
 as it looks at 
 e fact is, these 
 ii!j;e, amid their 
 turous explorer, 
 r liiarms. 
 
 Simday news- 
 ,■ .-md iiitclliijent. 
 nprottctcd he.'id 
 n .iiiriMile. The 
 , sl.appini; them- 
 fijal calm, 
 (jiial spurts that 
 : most dcliijhtfui 
 
 Tom I'inch, in 
 
 the fountain in 
 ; rom.inccs in my 
 I solitary st.ite. 
 ecus of Holland 
 
 is the Oueell of 
 
 . - <-^ - 
 
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