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Lorsqua la documant ast trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saul ciichA. il sst film* A partir da I'angia supAriaur gaucha. da gaucha A droita. at da haut an bas. an pranant la nombra d'imagas nAcsssaira. lias diagrammas suivants iilustrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^nannp ■■i UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY J. E. niLGARD BDPBRINnNOBMT / -Awm g*„ #«m- ALASKA PART, I PRICE $2.00 WASHINGTON aoVBRNMSNT PBIHTINO OFFICS 1883 MR. *%■. I ALASKA COAST PILOT. PART I. COAST FROM DIXON ENTRANCE TO YAKUTAT BAY WITH THE INLAND PAiSSAGE. t t i ^% INTRODUCTORY. TmMnry D«>iMiiinont, Document No. 449 Coulftnd Owdello Surrey. U. 8. COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY OFFFCE, \Va81iinot()N, D. C, July ,?^, lStl3. This volume of the Pacific Coast Pilot embraces the (-oast and islands from J)ixon Entranoe to Yakutat Bay, together with The Inland Passage by which the mail steamers of the United States and other Bteain-veasels are accustomed to reacii the waters of southeastern Alaska. The plan adopted in this work inrludcfl — I. A general description of the coast line and of the shores of the several harbors and thorough- fares in geographical sequence from South to North. II. A description of those dangers and obstructions to navigation known to exist on the <-oast and 'n the harbors, with directions for avoiding them. III. Sailing directions for approaching and entering the harbors. IV. Latitudes and Longitudes of important landmarks, headlands and s|K!cial localities. V. Practical information in regard to tides, tidal currents, ice, variation of the comimss, and other matters of use to navigators on an unfamiliar coast. VI. Views of the coast and of the entrances to the more important harbors. VII. Charts of the coast on a uniform scale. VIII. Useful information, including a catalogue of the charts useful in navigating Alaskan waters; astronomically determined positions of Alaskan (lorts, prominent headlands, etc., with the compass variations observed at these localities ; a table of distances between points in Alaska and the adjacent region by the usual routes; a list of the steamer routes in Abffkan waters with references to the pages of the text where their different portions are described, in crdei to save frequent reference to the index; and, finally, tables showing the average temperature, wind, itmospheric pressure, etc., at various Alaskan stations, for each month and for the year. A chart reduced to the epoch of 1885, showing the lines of equal variation of the tompass over the territory, is included. litis was prepared by Assistant C. A. Schott and first appeared, with a discussion of the data, in Appendix No. 13 to the Report of the Superintendent of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey for the year 1882. 'Soon after the acquisition of Alaska, in response to the demand for some guide to the navigation of its waters, a comprehensive report upon the coast features and resources of that territory was mode by Assistant George Davidson. This report, which embodied the most trustworthy information on the subject, was publbhed as Appendix Nc. 18 to the Coast Survey Report for 18S7. The same officer had previously prepared the Coast Pilot of California, On^n and Washington Territory, two editions of which were published by the Coast Survey. The materials for Assistant Davidson's report on Alaska were largely derived from a geographical reconnaissance conducted under his direction during the summer and autumn of 1 867, and from the work of previous explorers, such as Vancouver and others. Subx-queutly, in 1869, when ordered to Alaska to observe the solar eclipse of that year, Mr. Davidson availed himself of the opportunity to verify and extend his former examinations. This work led to the publication in 1869 of a revised and much enlarged edition of his first report, in the form of an octavo volume of two hundred and fifty pages, under the title "Coast Pilot of Alaska, First Part, from southern boundary ^o Cook's Inlet." IV INTBODUCTOBY. AwiHtani Dnvitkin Imving iK-eii cliargwl with other imi)ortant diitiw, incliKlinR the direction of a jwrty to (.liwTve in .lajwii tiio tninsit of Venus, the coiiipilufion of a new worl<, exhaustive of all known wounw of infoinmtion, wiw \Awvi\ hy Sii|)crint«in(lcnt PattcrHon in the liandH of William Haiiey Dall, AK-^JHlant Coant and Gcoecially eiludited for hydrographic surveys and must be more or less im]ierfectt in details; and, sec«)nd, to the «lesind)ility of improving our inii^rfiHt knowledge, as here presented, by such corrections, additions and new information as almost every navigator in tho Alaskan region will find it in his |M>wer to su|>ply. Such information should 1* luldrcssetl to the Su|)erintendent of the Coast and Gi-oiletic Survey, Washington, D. ('., and will in future publications l)C creilited to the jHirsons furnishing it. J. E. HILCrARD, SHpertnUndmt. of a >f all lliam mhI>x tlioy the XXMl- 1874 ill IN67 iliar a. rvey « to uiid tion scut hxIh t in ,by will rey, TABLE OP CONTENTS. •. Pa«u Introductory » iil-iv Tahi.eok (-'ontenth v-viii Note... ix Inland waters of the Columbian Arcliipcliigo 1 Gulf of Georgia to Dixon Entrance 1-47 Discovery Passage . «■ . _* 1-8 Seymour Narrows . 4 Johnston Strait _«..,— 6-9 Broughton Strait _ 9-11 Queen Charlotte Sound _ _ 11-13 Goletas Channel _ _ i;i-17 Hecate Strait _ 18 Dangers in Queen Charlotte Sound . 19 Sibling Directions « 20 Fitzhugh Sound __ _ 21-24 Lama Passage -. 24-2« Seaforth Channel and Milbank'Sound _ 26-29 Finlayson Channel _ 29-33 Tolmie Channel 31 Graham Reach 32 Fraserand McKay Reach 33 Wright Sound _ __ _ 33-34 Grenville Channel- _ _ 34-37 Chatham Sound— -— __ 4()-45 Port Simpson 45-47 Coast of Alaska; Alexander Archipelago 49 Dixon £ntrant« to Cross Sound 49-200 Dixon Entrance 51 South shore, Cape Knox to Rose Spit 51-56 Dundas Islands 56-67 Portland Canal 57-61 Dixon Entrance: Easteni shores 61-64 Northern shores 64-66 Kaigahnee Strait _. _ _ 66-70 Revillag^gedo and associated islands 70-82 Behm Canal— _. 72-75 Revillagigedo Channel _. ... 75-82 Etolin, Zaremoo, and associated islands 82-84 Clarence Strait, eastern shore, Dixon Entrance to Point Vallenar 83-84 Prince of Wales and associated islands 84-90 Clarence Strait, arestem shore, Dixon Entrance to Sumner Strait, and eastern shore from Point Vallenar to Sumner Strait 84-90 Passages among the York Islands 90-94 Ernest Sound _._ 90-91 Zimovia and Stikine Straits , <)l-94 Prince of Wales and associated islands 94-109 Ocean coast. Cape Muzon to Sumner Strait 94-99 Sumner Strait from Cape Decision to Stikine flats 100-109 Stikine River .109-112 Mitkoff and associated islands 112-117 Dry Strait , _ 112 Wraugell Strait _._112-117 (V) VI TAIII.K <»F fONTKNTH. I KunnniKilV ami iiHcociatiil ii«li»ndii -— — — I!Z~!!o Kckii Himil .-.. - - JII "lis (imllmin Simit IIqioo ("liiitliiiiii Stniit, Iroin ('ii|k' Dccwiini to l'<»int Kingsinill.— 119-122 Kii|iniiMiill' uikI .iNHiM'iiilcd iHlamlH 122-128 ^^(•(icrirk l-^oiiml, soiitlicni iiml ciwtcm Hhoit*! 122-128 Ailminiltv •iml iii^K-iutv-d iMlaiids 128-131 KiH'ilciick SiiuikI, nortlu'rii and wcdttrii HlionM 128-131 naraiiiilV ami iiA'*iK!iat<'4 inlands -— 132-167 <)ct\v««'h Sitka and Salislniiy Sounds 162-157 OiitirnMLMt --.. -' - 157-168 Sid i.-biiiy Sound 169-160 Peril SiniitM - --- .. — 160-167 Adniirallv and (iKM(Hiatartment 242 4. List of cliarts is,suey other authorities 246 liist of astronomi««l ]M>sitions, and variations of the comiMi&s for Alaskan stations, arranged alphalj«!ticaliy by localities Table of approximate sailing distances for the Alaskan region Kcference tabic for taking steamer routes exj)editiously from the text Note on pronunciation of names Meleorologiciil tables tor stations in the Alaskan region A. Atmospheric pressure B. 'rcmiKjmture of tlu' air C. Tem|)craturc of the sefi water 1). Precipitatiim 1 K. Dir<«tion of winds Notes on the tai)les Addenda and errata Index to names used in the text, Sailing Directions, Dangers, etc 279 Index to authorities cited : IJeeehey .._. gu J '"""gs 312 Cook __ 247 262 263 266 267 268 269 270 271 272 273 277 Dixon. 313 316 limigsdorrt" ^ __ gjg J-a Perousc _ 017 Lisiaimki LiUkC>.__ 317 319 320 Meaivs and DougliLs ^ ~_ 304 Portlm^k -------"--'"II11I1I1"I""""II1IIII 326 Van«)uvcr _ oan Voyage of the Sutil and Mcxi(ana IIIIIIIIIII I 33I * LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS. CUAUTM. A.— THE INLAND I'ASHAGE. C'Imrt 1, (I5••« and vicinity; p. -1. Chart 3, (156(5.) Caito ComnifrLi IVmt \Vull t'lmtiiani tjoiind; p. 32, B.— ALASKAN WATERS. Chart 6, (15«».) Dixon Knirunut!; •). 48. Cimrt 7, (1570.) Portland Caiml nivl tjlwermtory Inlut; p. 56. Chart 8, J 571.) Behm Cumil ■ id ' iiuen-e Strait; p. 72. Chart 9, (1672.) Coast Irom VVoU' U(H-k to Crt|)o Dtrimon; p. 'J4. Chart 10, (157.'J.) Sumner Stniitj p. UK). Chart 11, (1574.) Frt-dericU Sountl ui.d StephiMm Piwuajfe; p. 122. Chart 12, (1575.) (.'oitst tVoiu Sjuuly Hay to Ca));- Edward, with Peril Strait.s; p. 1.12. Chart l;J, (1576.) Coast fniin Ca|M3 Edwanl to Litnya I!,iy, with CrosH Sound and ley Strait; p. 1«2. Chart 14, (1819.) Lynn Canal; p. 194. Chart 15, (1578.) Coast from Litnya Buy to YakuUit Bay; p. 204. Chart 16. Isogonio lines of Alaska lor the eixxili 1885; p. 240. VIEWS. Sheet I. Op|MiHitc i>age 16. View 1. Leading marks over Nahwitti Bar, (text, p. 17.) View 2. Western entrance to Goletas Cluinuel, (text, p. 1 7.) Siieot 2. Opjiosite page 20. View 1, False Egg Island, (text, p. 19.) View 2. Soutlj end Table Island, (text, p. 20.) \Mew 3. Cape Calvert, B. C, (text, p. 20.) View :. Entrance to Welcome Harbor, Fitzluigh Sound, B. C, (text, p. 23.) Sheet 3, Opposite page 28. Vic.v 1. Entrance to Coghlan Anchorage, (text, p. 34.) View 2. Finlaysou Channel, B. C, looking south from Carter Iky, (text, p. 28.) View 3. Entrance to Metlakatia Bay, (text, -p. 40.) Sheet 4. Opposite page 50. View 1. New Eddystone R 'k, Behm Canal, (text, p. 72.) View 2. Entrance to Cloak Bay, (text, p. 52.) View 3. Entrance to Cox Strait, (text, p. 53.) Sheet 5, Opposite jjage 58. View 1. Anchorage Naas Bay, (text, p. 59.) View 2. Salmon Cove, Observatory Inlet, B. C, (text, i>. 59.) Sheet 6. Opposite page 64. View 1. Invisible Point, (text, p. 55.) View 2. North Island, Dixon Entrance, (text, p. 52.) View 3. Cape Mnzon, Alaska, (text, p.65.) View 4. Forrester Islaud, (text, p. 95.) (Vll) VIII TABLE OF CONTENTS. Sheet i, OpjKwite page 136. View i. Sitka or Norfolk Sound, (toxt. p. 136.) View 2. Sitka from the western anchorage, 1867, (text, p. 150.) View 3. Sitka from the eastward, 1880, (te.\t,p. 150.) Sheet 8. Opposite page l'i6. View 1. Kasa-an Bay, (text, p. 85.) ■'. - . ^ View 2. Kootznahoo Inlet, (text, p. 177.) • View 3. Point Craven, Peril Strait, (text, j). 166.) Sluiet 9. Op|)oaitc page 168. .: View 1. Point Windham, (text, p. 129.) ^'^iew 2. Taku Mountain an :. ' View 1. Entrance to Lituya Bay; (text, p. 203.) ' : .' ' ' . ' View 2. Mount Fairweather; (text, p. 205). , s " Sheet 13. Opposite page 212. View of Mount St. Elias as seen through a fiehl-glass at a distance of forty-three miles ; (text. n. 212.) ' V ,1 w mOTE. All bearings and courses nrc magnetic. All distances are in nautical miles. All depths are at, mean low water, wlieu known, unless otherwise 8taten TKHHnX»«Y. W. U. rUMPHKKY, Mill street. Sitka, Alaska. (IX) it PACIFIC COAST PILOT. THE INLxVND WATERS OF THE COLUMBIAN ARCHIPELAGO. THE GULF OF GEORGIA TO DIXON ENTRANCE. In making the passage from tlie entrance of the Strait of Fuca to the waters of Alaska or to Sitka Harbor, it will for most purposes Ix; sufficient to refer to otiier guides for the navigation of the intricate channels of the Strait, and of the Gulf of Greorgia.* From tlie head of that gulf a brief description of the usual route, is here presentwl. This description comprises nearly all that is definitely needei8 is well toward mid-channel, between Lasqueti and Hornby islands. Thence a course NW. by W. J W. forty miles, will bring the navigator to the entrance of Discovery Passage, and passtis not nearer than one mile to any serious dangers. It is hardly net«ssary to jmint out that the strong tides and eddies (characteristic of this region render sailing direiitions based on long-distance courses of little value here, since the same cannot in many cases be made good ex(«pt in fair weather and by a steam-vessel. But in practice only steam navigation is employed in tliese passages, and in nuxst cas*s, by their pilots, courses and distances are alone made use of. l>ISC;OVEKY FASSAOK is the only known navigiible outlet from the northwestern part of the (Julf of Georgia to the NW., and lies between the western side of Valdesf Island and the northeastern shore of V^ancouver Island. This passage averages a little more than a mile in breadth, contracting at Seymour Narrows to less than half a mile. Its shores south wartl from these narrows are nuMlerately high and apparently fertile, but northward from tliem steep, rugged and mountainous. This j)assiige was first entered by the United States sloop Washington, of Boston, C'aptain John Kendiic^k, in I7k9. Its lenj !i in a NW. and BE. direction from Cape Mudge to Chatham Point is twenty-three and a half miles. The southern entrance to this passage is formed by Willow Point, a small Uiul insignificant low rm'ky |)oint coverey tlif l^ S. C'ciimt. mid Ocmli'tii: Siirvoy. tNuiniKl fur Don CayBTANO Va.'.i>£s, wIki viiiitiil thrac wiitiTx in IT*.l*i, in llii' S|iiiniHli gitliul Afexiramt. lOrriiiiRoiialy ■pelled yaldet on DritiHli Adniirnlty Clinri No. 538. 2 KWATHIASKI COVB. more or less coveml witli vegetation. It falls to liic westward to^^l.r(^ Discovenr Passage, forming a low boulder ,K)iiit; frcin the SB. the high lan.j of Vi.ldes island apix-'ars l)chind it. It is situated (according to British Admiralty Ciiart No. 680) in Latitude »0°«>; »• Longitude-. 125 12 .6 W. DANCERS. From the low i)oint 'referral to, a boulder ln'acli ixtends to the eastward, following the general direc avoided. From CajMj Mudge Willow Point liears 8., a mile and two-thirds. TIIII'X. At the entrance, according to Uritisli authorities. '\ is H. W. P. and C. at 6* 30", with a range of eleven feet. The current runs from four »o >■•:•• knots, turnimr at high and low water. In heavy weather the tide-rii)s at AwkI in the entrance are sufficiently heavy to l)e dangerous to small craft. The flood tide proceeds from the northwestward. SAILING 1)1 RIX'T IONS FOU E.NTERIXO DtSt'OVEUY PASSAGE. The western low part of Cape Mudge should not be brought to In-Jir to the westward of W HW in entering or leaving this passage. The chamiel is free from dangers and jiresents no difficulties for steamers. Sailing vessels are recommended to enter it only in dear weather with a fair wind, and athet the first rush of the flood is over. The course is NW. from a point in mid-channel 8 SB. from Cape Mudge about one mile. The soundings in the vicinity vary from twenty to forty fathoms, rocky bottom. NW. by W. from Cape Mudge one mile is a shwil jitttch on which eight fathoms may be had, and over which the current forms stroi tide-rips. N NW. from Caiw Mudge less than two miles is a level piece of shore between the hills and the sea, where an Indian village is' situated, oiT which fifteen fathoms may be had close in-shore, an extends a cable and a half NW. by N. from Orange Point, its onier limits marked by kelp in four fathoms. This bay is shown on the British Admiralty Charts 538 and 2067, in connection resiMSctively with Seymour Narrows and Gowl- land Harbor. Gqwlland Harbor is the next shelter on the soutiiwestern shore of Valdes Island, NW. from Kwathiaski Cove. From the northern entrance of the latter the shore is bold-to and very irregular, extending in a general NW. direction two miles to the northern end of Steep Island, which forms tlie southern head of the entrance to Gowlland Harbor. This island is less than half a mile long, very narrow, with a blutf slion; on the western side, and al>ont one hundred flowlluiil Harbor. i'eet high. Its northwestern end is directly abre^ist of Orange Point and bears from it NE. J N., distant one mile. Bctwwn it and Gowlland Island, forming the. southern protection of the liarbor, is a narrow rocky channel. The last-named island is alwut a mile long and a third of a two summits, of which the southeastern one is about four hundred feet high. A rock connected by a mile wide, with rocky tongue with the northwestern end of Gowlland Island is known as Vigilant Point, and is stated to be in Latitude- "_ 80° 8' 02" N. Longitude _ 128° 16' 06" W.* The variation of the compass in this vicinity was 23° increase of 2'. as' E. in 1866, with a presumed annual The harbor Iving within this point is two and a half miles in a NW. and SE. direction, and from a quarter to two-thirds of u mile in width. There are several rocks and islets within u, and the shores are mostly woodetl, ruggess than half a mile W NW. Across the inner portion of the entrance, extending to within a tMible's length of the islets Ijeforc mentioned and of Vigilant Point, lies the Enfraiwe Bank, composed of sand, partly dry at low water, Enfranea Bank. and being at)out four cables long in a W NW. and E SE. direction, and one and a half cables wide. There is a clear passage on each side of it with not less than four fathoms; its southern end, with three fathoms on it, lies a cable N. by W. from Vigilant Point. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING GOWLLAND HARBOR. I. J!Vom the SoHf Airorif. — Steep Island should be rounded at about a cable's distance, when the course is NE. by E. for the piissige north of Vigilant Point, which is nearly steep-to and should be rounded at half a cable's length, or less, to avoid Entrance Bank. When Vigilant Point bears W. by S. a quarter of a mile, anchorage may l)c had in seven fathoms, muddy bottom. More extended anchorage may be found with deeper water at the southeastern head of the harbor, but the passage between the southeastern end of Gowlland Island and Valdes Island is obstructed by rocks and shoals. A contracted anchorage is also at the northwestern end of the harbor, N NW. of the Entrance Bank, in four fathoms. The first-mentioned anchorage is recommended for navigators intending only a short stay. II. Fram the Xorthicard. — If coming from the northward, the course is E. for Vigilant Point, passing as before dirccteil. A plan of this hai-bor is. issued by the British Admiralty OfliTe, No. 2067. TIDES. It is H. W. F. and C. at S"" 30"° p. m. Spring tides rise elc-en feet. The coast from Gowlland Harbor, in a W NW. dircctioij, is bold-to, high and ruggetl for four miles. On the Vancouver side, from Duncan Bay, the bluffs are lower, and the shore trends about NW. for nearly three miles, with a narrow beach to Eace Point, a high bluff promontory, bold-to ; past which the tide runs with a four to six-knot current, the Hood forming rips very dangerous for boats. *AU longitudei given in this work are Witt from Qreenwieh, ^' ^'' 4 MENZirai BAT. From ihiH point tlio land trendt) W 8W. two miles to the mouth of McnrJoH Bay, an innt, U'ing a inilo and n liajf loii)r in a ICW. and 8X. assuge between it and Valdcs Island to the northwani. A small islet called Yellow Islet lies three cables E NB. from ^^"ud Island. Between the latter and Wilfred Point is v.ie southern entrance to SEYMOUR NARROWS, which extend N NW. from the entrance two miles, being less than four cables in width at their nar- rowest jtart. The shores on both sides are rugged, high and Iwld-to. The summits on the Yaldes shore rise to the height of seven hundred feet and those on the Vancouver side have the aj>pearance of being decidedly higher. The depth of water in some parts of the Narrows exceeds sixty-five fathoms. TIDES. Owing to the narrowness of this gorge the tides rush through with great velocity, attaining fully nine knots at sprinp tides. It is stated tiiat the flood and ebb streams run for nearly equal inlervals of six iiours, — ii veiy short period of slack witer intervening between them. It should D»e%ptin be note c alled False Passage. Race Point is rooky, flattish and bare of trees; !£"I^ ^'^* "^ '^™''''' ^- ^- "yJf'g^pl'ic Office Hydrographio NoUoe No. 13, 1860. f Wilford Point of Moade. t Erroneoiiriy spelled Maude on Britiah Admiralty Chart No. 580. Kande UUnd i» near NanooM Hwbor. Lnd and water, nearly eredge mug end of H. one ^ater lovor it. Uiougb tf ti«eB; ./fi^iSLi 'jsatau^dmA LATN>Jq Ikt" x Ail IP :io Sejiaratioii 11'.' SB > •" :.8 ai IB (& ^. .%. X £& PLUMI'KH -ift .— ,il'-^'' & .* iSK ^ 1. \ r, ^ 5 \ * 1 ^ ^ 7 1'. 6 H 6 p. >A u •1 ^ mmmmm TT pi.ATm4«i»«f SKYMOliU NAliUOWS AND VICINITY Vi'tmi tiw I'I-WihIi AduiirnlU" rlim-l \ HR ^ lH(i7 lOUNOINOt IN FATHOM* WOTK /.iitiUttlf of S./Hiitition //fiiif Tit)* 11 't". I,4in;jinit1f iif ilo H'r.if fifini fiiivnwirh in nif l'jr> J'J 7*) /,iinifitti€ff iif titi i/o. Viiriiitittii III' t/ir .Vofinctif XrrtUe in IfiHti in tinir H'' •JI"':U'! .\ •.>:<■ ;tr.', K . V A L D E S ^^Tirr'^-"-^ 7^ f+y V A ISI C () U Y E R TIPKS Time of Hi;[Sli Wutm- iit Full iind Chnnjjp 3^ ll'" Mpiin Itisi! inirl KtiU of Sju-iuji Ttibja l.'MI .0 SIhi'Ii vriiiei' LfiHl* al>aiit 10 luuiuteti. The flooil oitm,- ln.enct?n iiiifuit 10*' A.M. CIJUHKNTI, '/7//' ■:ut immediately expands^ nearly twice that width, forming on the Vancouver side a small bight with a sandy beach, and on the opposite shore Fiumper Biy, named after H. B. M steamer Plumpei', long engaged in surveying in this region. This bay is about half a mile Plumper Bay. wide and less than a mile long iu a N NW. and S SE. direction, and is sheltered to the NW. by Separation Head, an ova'. Iiigh pci:'"«ula putting out from N'aldes i.dand. Ft is easy of access, and well sheltered. In its so'itlieastern ])art anchorage Uiay be had in seven N) twelve fathoms within two odbl''.-5' length of the shoi-e. The eddies and tides in this bay ai'c said to be very strong and cause a vessel to surge heavily on her chains. For this . uson i' is chiefly useful to renuiin in for a short time while awaiting a favoiabU tide at the Narrows. Nu directtions are necft^sary for "nteririg it. Se|)arated from Plumper Bay by the peninsula of *''!>?.ration Head is Deep Water Bay , about a ipile long anil over half a mile wide, but too deep for c.nivtnient anchoragi!. From Separatioi. Head Discovery Pa.ssage trends NW. for five miles, the shores bec( niing more high and rugged than before. At this point a dee|) bay, with a number of islets i:-: it but no anchorage, is reported, indenting ild having a width of from one to two miles. The shore on both sides is high and rugged, especially to the southward, where an almost con- tinuous range of mountains rises abruptly from the sea witli summits 2,000 to 5,000 feet in height, some of V ' ear sn(iw throughout the year. The shores of the strait, except in a few places to be hereafter ret.....^.. to, are bold-to, and there are no anchorages whatever along the southern shore. This strait is rei)r(!sented on British Admiralty Charts Nas. 680, corrected to September, 1880, and 581, corrected to August, 1872. TIDES. The tides attain a strength of six knots in a few places, but on an average do not exceed three knots. It is stated by English authorities that everywhere in Johnstone Strait it is H. W. F. and C. at O"" as™, and the rise and fall of tide is about sixteen feet. The streams run by the shore from two to two and a half hours after higli and low water, and, except near Helracken Island and to th? east- ward of Knox Pay, they seldom exceed one to three knots per hour. > The magnetic variation in 1862 was 23° 40' E., with a presumed annual inerea.se'of 3'. From Chatham Point to tlie west end of Tliurlow Islands the soinidings in mid-channe' .»i ; •■' >■•.' deep, — in several places no bottom being found with 150 fathoms of line. Hence to Hard"' ii. « Vv.i'^ the Imttom is irregular, and beyond it again (Wpens. There UTehcavi/ tide-rips near He!i'.- 'tti: fl^i''■'■iiJ and just west of tJliathani Point is an ocer/Vi// wdiicli at times protiuc?': a '. -d ordy as a temporary imehorage, as .should a southerly wind spring up the vessel would ground from the .steepness of the bank. Off the course! extending! bay exists! To til ing the soj On tl lies a rock tain Ctard Westl obstructedl and three-l with a rocl length fro[ around thJ The I Thurlows r from Earll lies Helmf and W. dil it rises to shore. O of vessels tide, Mid Thei BaoePasi it. ^...wi»icii^M'.> PORT NEVrLLB. Off the SW. point of the hay foul (/round extends for a cable length from the shore and follows the course of the point for half a mile! Beyond Knox Bay the Thurlow shore is almost straigiit, extending in a WSW. direction for nearly six miles, when it tnrns to the northwest, where a small bay exists too deep to afford anchorage ex(«pt for small craft at its head, and open to the westward. To the north from it is Eden Point, the northwestern extreme of U'hurlow, bold and cliffv, form- ing the southern headland of the entrance to Chancellor Channel. On the line from Eden Point, Thurlow Island, to Camp Po'iit peak, close to the Vancouver shore, lies a rock covered at high water, (not on the Britisli Admiralty charts,) which was iliscovered by Cap- tain Carroll of the steamer California in May, 1880. Westward from Eden Point Johnstone Strait becomes wider, and so coiitinues except where obstructed by islands. Its width at this point is nearly two miles. On the \'ancouver shore, nine and three-quarter miles W. by 8. \ 8. from Ripple Point, is Camp Point, sloping gradually to the sea, with a rocky l)each off it; f'.iv}. ^'-^"^ *^he point NE. half a mile lies Ripple 8!toa(, about half a mile in length from E. to W., marked by kelp and having six to nine fathonts upon it, with deep water all around the shoal. The north side of the strait in this vicinity is formed by Hardwicke Island, separated from the Thurlows by Chancellor Channel, and having its southern shore nearly straight for seven miles. East from Earl Ledge the shore is steep-to. W SW. from Eden Point two and a half miles lies Helracken Island, in the middle of the strait, a mile and a half long in an E. Helmcken Island, and "TT. direction, and about half a mile wide, with a rugged and irregular (joast line. it rises to the height of nearly two hundred feet, and has sevei-al small islets clo- to on its northciist shore. On each side of the island is a dear passage half a mile wide. In the track of vessels using the northern passage lies Speaker Rock, which covers at less than half Speaker Rock. tide, and is situated two and a half cables NE. from the eastern point of the island. > . The northern channel is kuown as Current Passage, and has deep water with about ...^ .^ime tide as Race Passage, wliicli is more generally usetl, deep and tear of danger. The tide runs strongly through it, as much as seven knots at spring tides, and there ..re some hcat-y tide-ripH in the eastern })art. Westward from Camp Point the Vancouver shore is almost straight for nearly four and a half miles. It then forms a slight indentition known as Salmon Bay, with extensive flats at its head, giving it an appearance of considerable extent at high watc^r; but there is no aiichmuje, — the bank at its head being bold-to. A large river, said ttr be navigable for several miles by canoes, empties into the bay from an extensive valley which stretches away to the southeast, in the centre of which appears Valley Cone, a remarkable bare peak about eight hundred feet high. This valley forms the only break in the I'lountain range of the Vancouvei shore. On tl'o shoi-e of Hardwicke Island, one mile west of the western point of Earl Ledge. Helmckei'. Island, is a small rocky point, directly to the eastward of which the Earl Led'je extends at right angles to the shore for about three cables, only uncovering at low water. Hence to the western end of Hurflwicke Island both shores of the strait are rugged, broken and nearly straight, and its width is slightly contracted. Off the western end of Hardwicke ai'c York Island, high, round, and half a mil^n diameter, and another low islet half a mile farther west. Off these, W NW. from the outer islet a < uarter of a mile, lies the Fainiy Re(f, awash at high water. The entrant* of Sunderland Channel between the reef and the north shore of the strait is subject to heavy tide-rips. The north shore is no^f constituted by the mainland of British Columbia and m\w\\ indented by bays and iidrlc Somewhat less than two niihs NW. from York Island is Tuna Point, the southeast headland of BlinL-msop Bey, over a mile deep and half a mile wide, with ext<-'nsive tidal flats at its head. The shores are ingh and the bay affords good anchorage, well sheltered and ea.sy of access, in ten to twelve fathoms about one-third of a mile NE. from its southv, \st point. The bank on which anchorage may be had is rather steep, and the only direction ncces.siiry is to anchor in mid- chumel as soon as twelve fathoms are obtained. Haifa mile SW. from the bay is Jesse Island, lying about two cables offshore, small and steep-to. About two miles W. of this island is the entrana; to Port Neville,* an iidel scmie Port Neville, seven miles in length, Iiaving a generally NE. direction, and being from a mile to a quarter of a mile in width. Its shores are high except near the eastern part of the entrance and at its head. It affords spacious and secure anchorage when once inside; but the entrance, whei'e less than four cables wide, is obstructed by VhanucI Rofk, a little over a mile Channel Rock. from the entrant*, of small extent and very dangerous, having only four feet of water over it, with twelve feet in the channel to the eastward of it and seventeen feet to the w<'stward. A detailed description of this port is unnecessary. Port Harvey and Blinkinsop Bay, both secure and easy of access, are adjacent *j it, ?'hI the danger in entering Port Neville is so great that it renders it inaassage between tluim and the shore, at the entrance to Port llarv y and Havannah Channel. They are small, rugged and low, and may be approached within a quarter of a mile to the south and southwest, but to the northward rocks, ledges and kelp, indicating shoals, extend three- quarters of :\ mile. One and a third miles to the northward of these islands is the entrance to Havannah Channol^ which runs in a northeasterly direction for four miles, connecting the eastern part of Havannah ''" en^ranee to Port Harvey with Call Creek Inlet, y^dm Domville Point, the south Channel. d of the channel, N NW. about one mile, lies tin- inner entrance to Port , which is here about half a mile wide and extends for two miles to the north- ward. 'I'here ares, al islets within it ; the shores are rugged ; from its head swampy ground extends northeastward, and a narrow gorge to the northwest |)artly (ills at iiigh water and joins Knight Inlet The soundings at the entrance vary from sixty to eighty fathoms, sliouling rapidly toward the head. Taking in the outer entrance the port Ls about four miles long, varying from a quarter to three- quarters of a mile in width, and affords good and well-shclteretl anchorage half a mile from its head in seven to nine fathoms, muddy bottom. It is H. W. P. and C. at Port Harvey at O'' 30"", and the tide ranges about ten feet. The small islets in Port Harvey are known as the Mist Islands. SAILING niRECTIONS FOR ENTElUNfJ PORT UAUVKV. If intending to anchor in Port Harvey, the navigator should keep in mid-ehannel till within the Mist Islands, when the anchorage opens out, and a berth may be had in .seven fathoms about half a mile from the head of the port. Sailing vessels of considerable size may beat in as far as the ^li.st Islands, standing in tc a aible length from the western sho , but on the other tack should avoid standing to the eastward of the line of the Hroken Islands or into the bight between the inner eastern headland (Transit Point) and the Mist Islands. A plan of this port appears on British Admiralty Chart No. 634. DANliEKH. Two miles W SW. from the Broken Islands lies the Emipe Reef, half a mile off the north coast of .Johnstone Strait, with deep water between it an.l the shore. It is about a cable in extent, with least water four feet, and in sunnner is marked by kelp. It has f the southern shore until past the Ripple Shoal. The tides arc strong umr Helmcken Island, but not so much so as to interfere with the progress of a steam- vessel of moderate power; to the westward they have no great strength. In beating through the strait from the eastward the shores to the east- wiml of Helmcken Island may l>e !■ 'proached to one cabU- length, except for half a mile on either side of the Pender Islands, the southerr. shore of which slioidd not be approached within two cables, as tne tide runs strong in their vicinitj . Betweer Thurlow Islands and the western end of Hardwicke Island it is not advisable to beat, as there are several dangers, previously s[)cci'''Hl, and the tide runs strongly and irregularly. From Hardwicke Island to the western enKS. In Bronghton Strait it is H. W. P. and C. at O'' 30"', — the tide nuiging fourtticn to fifteen feet. In the navigable channel the streams run from one to four knots, in the Race and Weynton passages from three to six knots, turning everywhere about two hours after high and low water by the shore. Beaver Cove, at the entrance of Bronghton Strait, on the N'aneouver shore, is a two-headed indentation of the coast, extending inland southward and westwarroad valley iM)undtHl by mountains fifteen hundred to three thousiuid feet in height, is Lake Karmutsen, a large sheet of water, into whitih .several large streams fall, and to the south of which the moinitaiiis ri.se over five thousand feet. On the northern bank of the river, at its entrance, is the niincil native village of Clicslakee.* About a mile NE. J N. from the entranct? of the river is Oreen Islet, stated to bo four feet above high water, small and bare, and situated in Latitude 60° 34' 12" N. I Longitude 126° 58' 37" W. In navigating the strait Green Islet should not be approached wi'Jiin three .able.s. Haifa mile west of it, on the bank, is a rock which uncovers at low water. Tliis rock is not shown on the plan of Nimpkish River on British Admiralty Chart No. 2067. The magnetic variation in this vicinity was 23° 55' E. in 1862. In this part of Broughton Strait a current of one to three knots is reported running for two hours after high and low .,ater by the shore, flnnding to the eastward. ^. Directly abreast of Green Islet is Alert Bay, on the southern shore of Cormorant Island. Yel- low Bluff, forming the southwestern headland of the buy, is recognized by a noticeable Alert Bay. yellow diif at the extreme of the point. The bay is half a mile deep N. and S. and nearly a mile wide, easy of access, and attording goinl and well-sheltered anchorage in five to nine fathoms, muddy bottom, the shores Iwing everywhere free of dangers. No directions are necessary for entering it. A plan of this bay may Ik- found on British Admiralty Chart No. 2067. Wood and water are abundant here. There is a larg(! salmon cannery, and a wharf at which vessels can lay at any time of tide. There is a mission establishiMl here, and quite a large Indian village, com- prising most of the former inhabitants of Cheslakee. The house marked on British Admiralty Chart No. 2067 is a small one-story house with three windows towanl the water. Near it is a very small chapel. The northwestern angle of Cormorant Island is known as Leonard Point, from which W. by S. a mile and a quarter is a kelp patch in four fatiioms. Two and a half miles nearly W SW. is Hadding- ton Island, small and steep-to, except on its northern side, where a bar extends toward Malcolm Island across the strait with as little as six feet on it in some places. Between this island and the ledge run- ning eastward from the lun-thern headland of Port McNeill is a clear passage, three-quarters of a mile wide, carrying seven fathoms in inid-<'haimel. W SW., two miles from the western ]H)int of this island, lies Ledge Point, from which a narrow M'u\t, is n shonl patch of four and a half fathoms, extending theiMH! half a mile in a westerly direction, and also marked by kelp. Abreast of the pKS. It is H. W. P. and C. at O'' 30'" a. m., aeeording to observations made in May 1860, and the rise about sixteen feet. The variation of the compass in 18(>2 was 24° 10' E. Thomas Point, the southeastern headland of the harbor, is low and rocky, with some rocks lying a quarter of a mile to the westward from it. Three-fifths of a mile NNW. from the point is Deer Island, two hundred and forty feet high, wooded, half a mile in diameter, and of a rounded shape. SE. from it lie some islets, bold-to. The channel lietwi-en this island and Thomas Foul ground. Point is elejir of dangein and somewhat less than half a mile wide. From the north- western shore of the island a broad reei' t-Atends to the NW., having from one to ten feet on it, and marked by kelp. To the northward of this reef, and separated from it by a boat passage, an; some is'ets surrounded with /ok/ (/coKTif ^, except on their northwestern side. Four cjibles N. by E. from Deer Island is Round Island, small, nearly bare of trees, but high, con- spicuous from the eastwani, and bo!d-to except for a short distance on its S SW. extreme. W SW. half a mile from the western edge oi' Deer Island are the Cattle Islands, one hundred and eighty feet high, small and wootkd, eoimected at low wati'r by bars and foul ground; the southernmost, known as Shell Islet, is the astronomical station, from whicli a reef extends southward a cable and a half, awash at high water. Westward from the entire group a bank with less than three fathoms on it extends nearly a cable. A quarter of a mile westward i'roiu Shell Islet is a shoal patch with three and a quarter fathoms, and WSW. about two. cables from the patch is Cormorant Hock, covered at high water, with a small shoal about it. The passages between thest^ shoals, the Cattle Islands and the shore are clear and carry about six fathoms. Peel Island, in the northern part of the harbor, is three-quartere of a mile long NE. and SW., and a third of a mile wide. It is about two hundred feet high and wooded; two cables northwartl from it lie the two small bare rocks called the Charlie Islets. The passage to the Dadalus Passage, westward of Peel Island is known as the Diwlalus Passage, is two cables wide in its narrowest part, and carries seventeen fathoms. There are several shoaler patches in it, but none with less than four fathoms. The southeastern shore of Peel Island is steep-to, and there is a good passage two (flblcs wide lietwcen it and the reefs and rocks north westwaixJ from Deer Island. Dillon Point, the northwestern headland of the harbor, is much broken, wooded and rocky, with rocky shores and some small islets lying close inshore. SAILING DIRECTIONS • FOR APPUOACIIING BEAVER HARHOR. Navigators intending to enter Beaver Harbor from the eastward should not ajiproach the Van- couver shore within a mile until up with Thomas Point bearing nothing to the northward of W. by S., and, if l>eating to windwar', great (aution should be observed in standing t approached from the southward nearer than two cables to avoid the reef before mentioned. Sailing vessels cannot easily work through this passagi-, but with a fair wind or for a steamer the only din«tion required is to keep in mid-channel. A plan of this harl)or is given on British Admiralty Chart No. 2067, correetey him. He prepared a ohart of it which was published in Jteares' voyage, and, 9ei>arately, by A. Dalrymple in 1791. 8HAI>WKIili l>A8NAOR. IB when the course in lies on that hnirin^ until Halrttoad Point lM>ar8 E. I)y N., when tlie vt'sxcl may Ix* headed for the eastern wliore, anchoring direetiy fourteen fathoms arc ohtaiiifd, ai)()iit (Hic iMv diHttiiit from the banlc, with the lieadlanda of tlie bay liearing rcHiKMlivciy NB. and NW. i)y W, II. Jear8 E. i>y N., when tiu> course will Ih> iim above HtatiKl. A plan of this bay is to l)e found on Britinli Admiralty Chart No. 20G7, with corretJtions to September, 1867. Ikyond Shushartie Bay tlie (»a> miles wide in a W SW. and ENE. dirwtion and penetrating the shore about one mile, with two ami n half to six fathoms water over a rocky bottp-to on its western side, but between it and V'aii.?!ttart is foul ground, 'the soundings in the southwestern part of the passage are from forty t(j a hundred fathoms, decreasing ra])idly to the northward, reaching as little as seven fathoms near One-Tree Islet, TIDES. The flood tide runs southward through the pjissage with a strength of about four and a half knots; while the ebb reaches about two knots in a contr.iry direction ; or, SE. from Center Island, runs as strong as the flood. Between Vansittart and Center Islands are sundry tide whirls or ripples whi!" tlie tide is running. * U. B. S. Suwanee was lost on this rock in July, 18C!). 16 BUIiL HARBOK. I t This piiHHiiL'o n.Mv l.c us.mI by st.am.T8 or willing v.*h.'1s with a fair witi.l. It w.)ul.l W inadviBahlc to nttfiupt to Ix'ut thV.,.i^'l> it, a; tli.iv is n.-iifrally a strong ti.lo an.l h.^avy »aw.-II in its northnxn part. It is th.' paKsa.r,. tr..M..nillv tak.Mi i.v lli.' Mii.ison M:.v Cmnpany's v.ss.'ls wlu- 1h)UiuI north from the inner wat.i-s north ..f Viim.mv.T fsian.l. vet it is not nM-onim-nd.'.! hy th.' Admiralty survcyorB. To the fastwanl of Vaiisitiart, Hate' l'a is .hrpcr and nearly strai<:ht. It appears enmer to navlL'ute, arxl is in nunt irspivts prcCcrahh' to th.> wrMt-ru passai;.', and the tid.'s form no strong ripples. Th.- Shadwrll and IJatf passages ar.' .I.'liiieatcd mi Ih-itish Admiralty Chart N.). f)S2, and on mi enlargp.1 seal No. .^f).-), (corrected to Novemli.'r, 1S81.) The latt.T .■.iitioii dillers quite matenully from the .)riginal edition of .'>.')."), issued in Xovemlier, IMtiit. HA 1 KING 1)1 RKCT IONS I'-OI! Tlin rsK OK SIIADWKl.l. I'AHSAOE. r. fVoii. tiif s»uthuHr,i.—h\ rounding the sdiitlieiistern point Willes Island shoul.l l)e kept alM)aril. In passing .'Mstward of Center Island it may he approached to aliont a cahl.! length, and the western edge of On.'-Trce Islet to ahoni two cahles, after which the .■otirse is N NW., leading out clear of all dangers. If the eastern or Hate I'assage is preferred, the navigator has merely to keep in niid-ehann.^l. The l)C8t anchorage in Shadwell I'assage, ae.;ording to the Vanc.aiver Island Pilot, is near the middle of the passage, in nine fathoms, with One-Tree Islet hearing hy N., Center IslamI SB., an.i Turn Point S.; hut tlii»' hvurimiH do not plot in a Halkfuvlorij vul any chart. II. j^-»iii tin- \orthtrnrii. — In entering the passage the course m -aE. for the eastern edge of Center Island in one with the southern pesik of Maginn Sa.Idle, parsing it and the other islands as hefore mentioned in nine to seventeen fathoms water. The western shore of Shadwell Passage is formed hy Mope Island, the westernmost of the group which forms the northern shores of (iolctas ( 'liannel. It is moderately high, with very irregular shores, six miles in greatest Jength and three and three-fonith inil.'s in greatest breadth, with a Hope Island. general trend of uW. hy W. and NE. hy E. The sonlhern shore is steep and may he ap[)roached to within a (|uartcr of a mile; hut near its western extremity ./'ou/flrrounfi runs off thr.M! cahles. The sea hreaks heavily along its northern and western shores, off whii'h are H«!veral inlets and rocks, — the ten-fathom curve reaching two miles from tlii; shore in some plnotis. Two miles to the westwav.1 from Heath Point is Gallows Point, the sontheasti-rn headland of Bull llarl'or, on the .southern sid.' of Mope Island, a eoutracted hut perfectly land-locked anchorage. It runs in a northerly direction for a mile and a half acro.ss Hope Island, its head being Bull Harbor. only .separated from the northern shore of Hope l.sland hy a strip of lowland four hundred feet wide. The hreadth of the eutranci; is half a mile, hut at half the distance to the head it contracts to a cable, after which it again increases in width to two cables. A cable bul a half to the northward of the narrowest ])ortioii lies Indian Island, which, though small, completely shuts in the anchorage on the southward, leaving a passage to it on the ..'astern side a cable in width. Between the isli-;id anil the western shore are only eleven feet oi' water. The anchorage is to the northward of the island, in I'our or five fathoms, muddy liottom,hut then- is room only for one or two vessels of mcnlerat.' si/e to lie moored. < )nly small sailing vessels or steamers should use this anchorage, as it is difficult of access to long vessels from the narrow and tortuous entrance. ' ! DIKKlTIONS FOR ICNTEKIN.i lil'I.I, HAItnOR. The only directions neccssiuy for entering are to pass to the ettstward of Indian Island and moor as soon as the vcKsel is north .)f' it, anchors north and south. The NW. point of Indian Island is stated to be in Latitude 50° 54' 47" N. Longitude 127° 56' 03" W. The variation of the compass in 1862 Wiis 24° 20' E.; H. W. F. and C. at O'' 30"' A. M., — the spring titles rising iv.'elve and a half feet. W.mkI and fresh water can be <.btained here with case. The harbor is .shown on a large scale on British Admiralty Chart No. 2067, corrected to Sep- tember, 1867. T.itlie westward from this harbor the shore of Hope Island is r.)cky anil fringed witli kelp. Two and two-third miles to the westward of Gallows Point the western extreme .)f Hope Island is formed by Mexicana Point, oft' which a reef exten.ls to the southwest a quarter of a mile. To the southward, across tlie western entrance to Goletas Channel, between this point and Cape Commerell, r m ^.'. -., $m" Iji*»iEuif^ Mnrlai irvi'i- N iliwitu Mnv. ^z^" f ''■■■. Hopel HV»ttT^ KnlrtiQi**' tnlrtiletnn Cfainnnel Tnpu rcwiiiin-oU 16 Thif to atlem] It is the innor wai To I navigate, The enl.irgi^d from the •( r. J abojinl. western « of all da If t Tlie middle o and Tun IX. Center I before m The which fo! Hope Islai runs iiif' several ii Twi Harbor, Bull Harbi •:^ ■ l-tv.tiU v. v.'iS". -i to the he a half to shuts iu Between northwai vessels o; as it it; d \ The as Hoon a Th€ Thi spring ti TIk tember, o. Tw. is fonncf southwai NEW CHANNEL. 17 extends the Nahwitti Bar,* or ledge, narrowest somewhat to the northward of mid-ohnnnel and expanding toward either shore, especially to the southward, where it includes the Tatnall Reefs. This bar is of sandstone formation, rising suddenly from forty to nine Nahwitti Bar. fathoms on the eastward, but diminishing very gradually in depth from the westward. The narrowest portion of this bar between the ten-fathom curves is about a mile in width. Northward of the Tatnall Reefs the depth varies from six to nino fathoms. In heavy westerly gales the sea br(s»lssing the bar in the deepest water, Mount Ijcmon, a high conical peak-, should iippear nearly midwn ""■" Shingle Point and Heath Point on the opposite shore, or nothing to the southward of iuid\>a\ them. NEW r» VNNEIi. To tlie northward of the Goletas Channel, and >• panited from t b^ the islands which form the northern shore of that passage, New Channel, about iwchr and a li ilf miles long and varying from one and a half to four miles in breadth, is an extensive clear ])asKi}.'i' to fhe open waters of 'iiicen Ciiarlotte Sound. Its northern limit is formed by the Walkrr vom the weHttvar*. — The above directions also apply. When Boyle Islet bears S., the vessel will be to the eastwai-d, tilear from Grey Rock. ' SoiuutimeB written NabwUttl. p. c, ?, — 3 18 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. I i ki V HECATE STRAIT. From the western entrances of Golelas and Now channels two courses are o|)en to tlie navigator bound for Dixon P^ntrance or the north. One of tiiese, Hecate Strait,* is a broad sheet of water extendinf^ between the (^leen Charlotte Islands <..i tlie west and tiie insliore portion of the Columbian arcliii)eiiig() on the east. Its length from tiie Scott Islands to its northern entrance ablest of the But- terwortli K(Kks is about two hundreil and twenty miles; it gradually diminishes in width from ninety miles, at Cajx! St. James, to twenty at the northern entrance. It has been but slightly explored, and the few soundings which are on record, principally from II. M. S. Hecate, in 18fi'2, show that the bottom is very uneven, and lead to the suspicion that thorough investigation might reveal serious dangers. In the unpidilisluHl chart of Iiigraham, Master of the b: ig Hope in 1791-2, a large number of soundings are given, showing a bunk with five to twenty (iithoms water extending from the north- ejistcrn and northern shorts of (iueen ( 'harlott IsLnuls, in the sjmie general trend as Invisible Point, toward Zayas Island. Tins bank extends more than half way across Ho^'st" St'.i'i, and was named them Nova Hibemia. lu 1789 Robert Gray nametl them the Washington Islands, and Mearcs, in igiioram-e of the subdivision of the group by water, calhil it the Great Island. Perez, in 1774, placed it on his chart as Isla ix, Florida Blanca, in honor of the then viceroy of Mexico. The group is about two and a quarter degrees of latitude in extent, NW. and SE. It is of triangular form \Vith the apex to the SE., and extends through about two degrees of longitude. The northeastern part is level and attractive; the rest more or less broken and mountainous; the whole is densely wooded. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE NAVIGATION OF QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. I. From the southtravt.— After clearing the Nahv !i Bar at the entrsuce of Goletas Channel, as previously directed, when N.from CajjeCommerell on. and a half miles, the "ourse across the eastern part of Queen Charlotte Sound for Cape Caution is N. , E., eighteen and a quarter miles. From a position at the northern entrance of tin' .Sliadwell Pa.ssage, E. half a mile from Gifje James, the course for Cape Caution is N. by W. J W , thirtcMi and two-thirds miles. From a position near the entrance of New Channel j,n/i Bate Passage, NW. by W. from Greeting Point two and a half miles, with the western edge of Vansittart Island bearing's, by W. J W„ the course for Cape Caution is NW. by N .\ N., twelve and tw ntliiiils miles. From a position half a mile NNW. from the eastern h 'ad of the north entrance of Chrisde Pas- sage to the above-mentionetl jwint of departure at the entrai.cc of New Channel the course is W. by W. I N., eight and one-third miles. Either course is clear of n] i dangers. In a heavy southwest gale the transit of Queen Charlotte Sound were letter not attcmptwl. ' VanoouTMT 8tr»it of BeiglmuB wid other Owman gcogmplioni. "St— tj?fr • I HiMtt lii THE fSLAND PASSA(;E Capo Cnmmerrll to Point Walker (British Authori*.,eil ) 1B80 * tOUNOmatIN rATHOHl >(ii«««Hfc' not: ■# ! ! fVuW tiji :tm > '1. t If ■V^^-'y:<.'fr'U '■'■.4 . i ; vr SOUTH PASSAGE. 19 Cupe Caution, tlie most westerly projwiting part of the continent in liiis neighborhood, except Neck Point, terniiniites in nigged, r(K;linall, nx^ky, round island, two hundred ind eighty feet higli, and fie chief land- mark between Goletas Channe' and Fitzhugh Sound, lies NW. J N., five and a quarter miles from Cape Caution. On the same lino lie the Iron i?ocA», about four miles from Iron Rocks. the cape. The South Iron is marked by kelp ane a direct coui-se may be laid for the entrance to Fitzhugh Sound. This course is N. by W. { W., thirteen and three-quarters miles, when the Sorrow Islands south of Cai)e Calvert will benr W., three and a (juarter miles, and the vessel will be somewhat to the eastward of mid-channel. This course carries clear of all dangers. In foggy weather, if the existence of current Ix) suspected, after making Cape Caution a course may l)e laid to [miss about a mile to the westward of Egg Island, which from its height is readily recognized. From a iwsition one mile W SW. from the ca|)e a NW. course for six miles carries clear of all dangers, jMSsing at nearest about a mile and a quarter W. J S. from the island and three-quarters of a mile westward from the reefs to the southward of Egg Island. When Egg Island k^ai-s E. J S. from ttie vessel a NW. by N. ^ N. course for eight and three- quarter miles will bring the navigator up with the Sorrow Islands oft" Cape Calvert, — these bearing W. one mile. This course lies nearly in mid-channel. In beating in toward Fitzhugh Sound, until within four miles of Egg Island, vessels should not stand to the westward after the southern edges of Egg and Table islands are in one bearing NE. J N., (according to British Admiralty Chart No. 2448,) to avoid the dangerous ground to the westward. When Egg Island bears NE. | N. four miles, in tacking to the westward the navigator should keep witliin three and a half miles of the island until it bears ESE., after which it will be advisable not to bring it to bear to the southward of SSB. nor to the eastward of E SE. until up with the Sorrow Islands bearing W., to avoid the reefs and foul ground on either hand. The flood is stated to set to the eastward with a rate of two knots in Queen Charlotte Sound. TIDES. There are no accessible data as to the currents of this locality. The floofl is stated to set to the eastward with a rate of two knots in Queen Charlotte Sound. The soundings vary from forty to eighty fathoms. The establishment near the entrance of Smith Inlet* is said to be l"" O", with a rise for springs of fourteen feet and for neaps of eleven feet. The locality is shown on Britis'' Admiralty Charts Nos. 1917 and 1923 (editions of 1879) and on an enlarged scale on No. 2448, April, 187». The extreme southwestern headland of Fitzhugh Sound is formed by Mosraan Island, the south- l nost of the Sorrow Islands, a small, rather low islet, two-thirds of a mile to the southward of the f southern point of Calvert Island. It is wood»d, and the group extending between it ; and Calvert Island comprises numerous rocks and islets, one being of considerable extent. The o|)ening which separates them from Calvert Island bears the name of Grief Bay (Telakwas) on the English charts. From seaward these islands are hardly to be distinguished from Calvert Island.f The southern- most islet is situated, according to English authorities, in em most i Sorrow Islands. Latitude 51° 24' Longitude 127° 55' 30" N. 58" W. Two-thirds of a mile NNE. from it is Cape Calvert of the Admiralty Charts of 1867,^ being the southern extreme of Calvert Island. It presents a broad face of rocky shore line, NE. and SW. " Discovered mid iiiuned by Cujituin .laiiiex I Inniia in 1780. ♦ Diwovered tttid iiiiined l>y Ciiptaiu Cliurli's Duncan in 1787. t Sulsequently nuuie' ||£i»r, FitKliu^h Smind ,Lt>culing Wtovwr ittufi' It . ii \yM^, i^iMiliiMMMiiiii ■iiia SBSMtOt^l^^t^^aSiii,^' ■ Oil MVt\ 1h! t^^^: %. 43i?^'%e^-. ^SSf'-l., !>^ .v.< ■;.*» rf,;' ,i.'l .... - 1 i', .mi&rl L>/I'l Suit.. j^,«Sf-HftWH, hut l>a(!k«l by mountainN from two U> niurlv three tlioiLHiiiul ftrl hi>rl> on Calvert Inhind. A view ia given of thin oa|)e in the U. 8. <'. H. Coant I'iiot of Aliinkii, I'iirt I, !8()i>. E. I 8. five mihw from lli' «U)e lieH Cranstown Point, a nn-kv peninsula with an <)|Kfi hay to the eaHtward of it, and guarded to tlic 8W. by nn-kH and foul grouiul. TliiH jMiint and CajH' Calvert form the southern headlandH of Fit/.hugh Sound. FITZHUOII HOUND. This pnE.'age, named by Captain James llannain 178(i, Ih formed by Calvert and other ielandfl to the westward and the mainland to the ojistwartl, and extends in a MW. by N. dirtrtion for about forty miles, with an average width of more than three miles. The soundings iniliuite very ileep water, apparently inereasing in depth toward the northern {mrtion of the soiuid. The shores ap|M.'ur in genentl bold and rocky, the western ones free from outlying roeks; the sloi)cs are wooded and steep, and the clevaticms of the peaks vary from one thousand to thirty-tive hundred feet. A numl)er of passagfis, some still unexplored, lead to the eastward anut one mile, in Frigate Bay, is an islet known as Center Islet, of small extent, and having a shoal with two fathoms on it extending from its eastern end over a cable NE. by N. toward the shore of Penrose Island. There are several islets and rocks in the east -rn part of the bay, from which a boat passage extends to the SE., joining the entrance of llivcrs Inlet. A sketch of this vicinity is given on British Admiralty Chart No. 1901, corrected to ()ctol)er, 1879, by which it appears that Center Islet is situated in Latitude 51° 28' 10" N. Longitude 127" 44' 38" W. It is H. W. F. and C. at O"" 30"', — springs rising fourteen and neaps eleven feet. The variation of the compass was 25° E. in 1808. To the northward of Ironside Island are several protectetl sheets of water, but with exceedingly narrow and difficult entrances, which render it inadvisable to seek shelter in them. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOU ENTEKING FRIGATE BAV. From a position two cables NW. from Karslake Point, Quoin Hill bearing N. by E. J E., the < ourse is NE. J N. for the narrows, which should Ije paascd in raid-chamiel — least water eight fathoms — or, keeping the eastern shore, which is bluff and bold-to, well aboard until the blufls are passcil, to avoid the foul ground on the western shore. A course N. by E. J E., Karslake Point in mid-t-hannel line, clears all dangers, and when the northern edge of Ironside Island l)cars W. by S. J S. anchorage may be had in twelve to twenty fathoms. According to Pender the best anchorage will be found just within Safe Entrance off a clean sandy beach in thirteen fathoms, with the northeast extreme of Ironside Island l)earing W. i 8. and the north- west extreme of Sea Bluff 8. J W. It is necessary to moor in tliis bay. During SE. and SW. gales the gusts are furious. With Safety Cove so nesir at hanil it does not seem that it is necessary or desirable to use the contracted and difficult ramifications of Schooner Retreat, and they are not reeom- mende(^. •Sec U. S. N. llyilrograpliic Notice No. Wi, 1877, p. 10. 22 HAPKTY COVK AND Gt>LDSTK»;AM HARBOK. It' li: 1 , Penrose Island, wliifh loviiis (lu; northnrly pri)te('ti..ii ot' Si-liooiier Retreat, lies in the mouth of Rlv«i-s Ciiiial or Iiilet, u hraiich of tho inlet ]).u<8i!it; on citlier side of ir. i'oiiit Addcnbnwk * forms the soiitli'M'ii extroine of the kIiopc' on the we-tern side of the iiortharn cntniiiee to the inlet. From Kiir.slMke I'oiiit this p (inl beirs "51 W., distint iiwirly four mihs. NW. } N. from Point Addenbrook, four n/ile-!, i.s Point Hanbury, on lUc .so',;tliuriim!)st of a j;rou[) of s.!venl islands, the eastern part of which, wiili nil oi);:!iiiig hohiiid th(^m, is unexplored. One of t'.^, islands is known as Addenbrook Island and ( xt"iids to tln' westward into the sound, niirrownig the pau.si'ge between it and Calvert Island to less than two miles. W. by S. I S. iVoni Point Addenbrook, four and a half miles, is th'j entrance to Safety Cove, (Indian name (iht-so-al's ) named iiy Dunean, in 1788, Port Safety; and consistinjj of an indentation of the shore of Calvert Islajiil ainmt a mile lon^r W SW, and E NE., and three or four Safety Cove. >i,.)les in width. At its lieaii is a muddy tiilal flat, over which a stream, affording salmon in the steason, empties into the cove, fhe shores are hitrli, rising nearly a thoii land feet, wooded, rooky and stee])-to, extept at the head. It is open to the E NE., but aifbnls good lioldioir-irround in lit'teeii to twenty-five iiitlioms, sof't muspe(!ially when coming from the northward in thi<;k weather. In southerly gales it woollies severely tVoni the valley at the licad of the cove, but it is a perfeeparated fn-in Calvert island by this passage li.ts been named Hecate Is!and.j| About NW. .', N., five miles from Kwakshua cMitrance, lies the entrance to Goldstream Harbor, Gotdstream Harbor. at the northern extremity of Hecate Island, and protected by an island less than half a mile in extent, which lies off it to the N NW. This harbor is of verv small extent and is entered by a very narrow .uui sommvhat wiii'ling cliannel. The shores are roeky and frinp'd with keip; the entrance is init'sted with roeks and islst.s, most of which, however, are vi-iil)le. The total length of the harbor and entrance is al)out ludf a mile. The entrauce to this harbor (Voia l''it/.liu(''e appears to !»e about live fathoms. At the NW. corner of the ancliorauc there open- to 1 lakai .''Mrait a passage whieh appear.-, not to be navi^^abl". From Kelp Point, the UiM-thwestern heaciland of the eiiira.i. e, foul _round, covered with kelp in two and a half fathoms, extends a cable to the northward 'i"he geographical position of Hawaor Point is reported to be I' Latitude St° 43' la" jj. Longitude ■ 128" 00' 34" W. H. W. F. and C. .hcurs at l' 0'",— springs rising fifteen feet and I'.caps twelve feet. The variation of ihe compass in IStiS was 25° 16' E. ■ hi^ Vi. Ml I.|.. n-^. 1 lii." iiiiuK ii ii< xpfllwl Addenbrooke, n iipelliiig fol- 'Nmnc'l l.v Villi-., iiVKi- ill ViiH. Si> lowed (111 iliu lilili^ll Viliiiiriiltv I'liiti'ti^. Il)c|iiii(liii(jr ii|iiiii Shcli li'Iiiml. licnviT lliirlMir, \n-'mit in Liiiifjiliulv W7<-' 2ri' 07'' W. IViidiT. I.e. tfailiiii.' V|.s,.,■l^ hiivr ii;iT....I ilii-mi^'li Iht,.. 'I'liis was «iip|Kiwa l,v Viin„,u tr ,<, hv t,i,. ?ort 3afety of Dinican in i: but (itlu'in imiri' cnirii-llv iili'niilicil \iuuiinvi'r'« Safety Cove with Duncan'a I'mt II By IVndtT, I. c, !>. 12, lb76. *^""^"^^"^^' NAMU HAKBOIt. 23 From the existing dangers it ciinnot l>e rct«minoiMlc(l that vcssol,« should enter tliis hnrhor px(v]it in charge of a j)iiot or with good local knowledge. Tt is reprcsentetl on IJritisli Admiralty C'lart Nn. 1901. corrwtwi t-) October, 1879. Inime Kiwash Island, is abrupt, bohl-to, and with but few and inconsiderable indentations, none of which apjiwir to afford anchorage. Kiwash Island, of smaP 'jxtent, two hundred feet high and wotnled, lies inime<]iately abreast of Xainn Harbor. This harbo?- or anchorage is included between Clitf and Kiwa.-ih islands to the westward. Plover Island, one hundred and fifty feet high, and the mainland to Namu Harbor, the south, eixst and north. From the centra! portion of this sln^et of water there is an extent of three and a (|uarter (ables in every direction, free of (!a)i;iers, and averaging twenty-two fathoms in depth. To the northward two contracted inhts extend a mile into the mainland. Harlequin Basiu is the terminal expansion of the more northern iidei ; the other, iidi'sted vtitli rocks and extremely narrow, is called Kock Creek. The entranc(; to the latter, whlcii i.s somewhat cxj)anded, is marked by wo islet.s — Sunday Islet to the northward and Clam Islet to the southward, N. J W. and S. j E., at VICl.MTY. There is a clear ])assiige either side of Kiwash Island three or foin' cables wide. No directions are necessary for entering. Anchorage may be had in twenty-one t'atlioms half a mile E NE. of Kiwa.sh Island. \ ipiarter of a mile farther, in the same direction, a more protected |)osition n ly Iw. taken up, in teri or twelve fathoms, midway between Sunday Islet, bearitig NW., and the point i ppo- .site in Whirlwind Bay. S(pialls from the higii land and the vicinity of the Aoo li'ork, in addi'iou to the .still more contraeteil space, render it inadvisable to bring Siuiday Islet to bear to the westward of W NW. in entering this hny. About two miles N. by W. from Kiwash Island lies (with siimc islets near ii) Point Edmund of the Admiralty charts, the .Hxilliern headland of Ihn-kc Canal, which extends hence to the north ward. + * II ■«( iiBiiitHi tVo- l,i'|i:iiiti' D'Ajri'lct, tlif asfriimiri ■ •• Im iiiciiiii|iiiriii'il i ;i I'lTniiw in lii» cxiilipiiiliiins "i\ lliis imiiihI In I7S4). f Tli'iK i," iii'l llic Point Edmund nl' VimcdiiviT. wliirli. iic iliMihUiHlriili'il \iy his lii'iiiiii!.'». whk fiit-llici' In llii' inirlli und mut in ttie canal. :V«a; 21 LAMA PASSAGE. I ;S f i 1 A.Tdss tlie entrunc*!, two milcH NW. by W., lies Point Walker, llic lu.rtlioin headland, Hituated on a small island. This island is sfwp-to, bat at a distanc* of two cal)le« there is only twenty-Hix fathoms, muddy bottom, dw^pcning qiiickly a short distance farther out. This [wsiticn might Iw us«l as a tcnipo- rarv anchoratrc in a foj;. Then.? are rmmcrom rerfH north of tiie island. From Point Walker NW. \ N 'thiee niilcH are the Fog Rwks, apiK-ariug from the south to be nearly in the middle of the sound, and indiaited as visible at all times. They appear to be three in number, (Pender notes six above water.) rising alwut ten feet above high-water mark, flat and of a whitish color. The Fog Rocks. westernmost appears to be the largest, is twenty-five feet high, and has a clump of small trees on iti* northern end. Close to the southernmost Fog Rock several small black rocks luiepver at low water. There is probably foul ground all around them. A passage Ixjtwecn them and the eastern shore has i)ne hundnxi and three fathoms, muddy bottom, but the best and usual pa'»aj|e lies westward from the rocks, which should not be closely approached. The passage Iretween them 'and the shore of Hunter Island is about a mile wide. To the eastward of these rocks, and stret<^hing along the shore of King Island as far as i'oinl Walker, are a number of rocks and islets, behind which is an indentp^ ., • iiATay«.m >' ,,;' S.WutrlitT jio' uion. aiflpL TIIK INLAND PASSAG K POINT WALKER TO SWANSON BAY (British Autlioiilies ) 1880 a. XI SOUNDINGS IN rATHOMS (mMIS( _A,..„_ rji5ptf_ -■^Sr- iTautiuni Miles ri.ATKiro. 1567 <■ „ur^ Pr -Jl. '^'non IVnlu X/; ^/^ am IL K^ Af^J^Ki''^ !• *^'"''^ °. * 3a -^c.„ r -^^ Iff* i f, VauUcal Uila* 1 2^! a' in ro H w tJ J? tt St b h: t SI a ft) h n si ■I ■ t I ti I I f. I ^ f i i . i if ». j i: 1 i 1 i 1 BET.LA BELLA. 26 Jane Creek, in the enstern curlier of Cooper Inlet, is protected to the northward hy Charles Point, off which, in n wost-nortliwesterly dirootinn to a distunte of a cable and a half, extend two reefn, the outermost of which dries nine feet. From Charles Point, George Point, the opjwsite head- land of the creek, bears south three cables. Larjre vessels may anchor in eighteen fathoms Iwtween the two points, but the bottom is generally nx-ky. .Small vessels may find better anchorage in nine fathoms, with Charles Point in line with the east point of Canoe Bight on the op|K>sitc side of the paa«age bearing WW. \ W., and George Point 8W. bv W. This locality is represented on British Admiralty Chart No. 2449 (to OetolnT, 1872.) The shores of Camplx'U and Denny islands, bordering on the northern part of the passage, are irregular, with a number of small coves. The passage contracts off the western extreme of Denny Island to less than a quarter of a mile, but widens to the north and south. From Start Point, at the eastern entrance, the passage is (^lear, with very deep water, shoaling to twenty-five fathoms. About two miles from the point, cio?e in on the southern shore, are some rocks or islets above water with shoali in front of them extending off a cal)le length. Hence to the north- western extreme of FIunt}r Island a clear passage along the northern shore exists from half a mile to a mile wide. Ship Point, the southeastern extreme of Campbell Island, is backed by a hill three hun- dred and eighty feet higli, abreast of which, extending from Cump Island,* on the Dctmy shore, are same rocks above water, and one only two feet above low water of spring tides. This part of Denny Island should not be approached to nearer than half a mile. Hence the clear channel hugs the Campbell Island shore N NW. about three miles to McLaughlin Bay, a small cove indenting Campbell Island a couple of cables, and throe and a half cables in extent N NW. and S SB. The shores are rocky except at the southwestern corner of the bay, where a small stream comes in. TliHre is a hire hill two hundrcil feet high to MoLauijhIiii Bay. the westward of the anchorage. The soundings in the pas-sage off the bar vary from twenty to thirty fathoms. Within the bay they are sonnwhat irregular, varying fr)ra seven to sixteen fathoms. A email rocky platform in the northern p')rtion of the bay, separated fro;n the shore at high water, was the British astronomical station, and is stated to be in Latitude . 52° 08' 37" N. Longitude 128° 10' 18" W. It is H. W. P. and C. at l"" 0'"; springs rise fourteen and neaps ten feet. The best place for anchoring appears to l)e SE. two cables from the Observation rock, in ten or twelve fathoms, sandy mud. British authorities recommend a spot off the middle of the l)ea(!h about a cable from the shore, with Grave Point oyten east of the southwest point of Narrows Island bearing N. \ W., and Archibald Point open east of Napier Point SE. by E. This bay in former times was the site of a Hudson Bay Company's post, which was re-establislied here in 1868, when the Bella Bella Indians migrated from the Bella Bella Islands to this locality, which is now the only winter residence of Indians within a coiisidcRdde area adjacent. This once formidable tribe now numbers scarcely fifty individuals. From their residence here the place is generally known to traders and coastei-s as J^ella Bella. The village contains about twenty Indian houses, a mission residence and church. The hills around tiie bay have l)een partially cleared and are now pasture for tattle. The Indian name of the |)lace is Wau-ko-has. W NW. from McLaughlin Bay are several peaks over a thousand feet in height, one of them, Mt. Hand, according to British authoriti(s, benig four thousand one hundred and sixty-four feet high. The bay is represented on British Admiralty Chart No. li)()l. A rock has l)een reported on Indian authority to exist in Ijiinia Passage opposite McLaughlin Bay, and about half a cable from the eastern shore, with !^apier Point iKaring SSE. six cables distant. This, if corra-tly locatetl, could be avoide8 and an account of the rorago. t Kor tides hereubuiitB see Kynumpt Hiirlior, i4KAFORTH CHANNEL. 27 Point. Gootl amthorage may l)e ubtniiieil here in niitl-ehiinnel, Berry Point lKeninsulu with a nar- row neck less than a cable wide. The Imy has from twenly-five to fifty fathoms in it. Immetliately to the westward of CamplHill Island, and separating it from Hergcstt Island of the Wright group, which is uuexplore, and has over thirty-eight fathoms in the entrants and twelve to thirty inside. Beyond this inlet, and three miles to the westward of Point George, is Idol Point, bold-to, with high land behind it. 8W. by W. j W. from this point the shore of Hergest Island extends about three miles and a half to the obstructed entrance of Gale Creek, which is supposed to extend in a southerly direction, meeting Boddy Creek from the SE., and thus to separate Hergest 'Island from the rest of the Wright group. The shore extends in the same direction from the entrance of Gale Creek, SW. by W. J W., two and a half miles, to Sound Point, Milbank Sound, mostly compact and fringed with rwks, and should it be approached within half a mile anywhere westward from Idol Point. According to Pender, from Gale Creek west for a mile and a half reefo with nine fathoms close- to extend about three cables from the shore, and with careful use of the lead temporary anchorage may be obttiined on this bank in foggy weather. It is obvious, however, that such proceedings cannoi he recommended except in an unusual emergency. Gale Creek, which is an unnavigable, inconsiderable inlet, is the only marked indentation of tliis strip of shore line. The northern shores of SeaCorth Channel are much more irregular in outline. Seijarating Sunday an^^^'': Knitiuii'f ♦»! 4'o|4hlim Aiiilu.iiikj.', Thuin I't . S K '1 K, (f-iyttft Hriti^ih .X./m.tVfirt .y„. ^/Vt) lu^ni. Ut.tfo.NeiU Dcvustntioiil. Shrubl. IHknl. VMaUn^ Hii ■ i^rid^.1. Knli-fui.-o t.> Metlaktala nay, Kfri^t I.N.N.E.iK. m •"viv.^mvf.iufwmmmmmmvm ipa 1 ,-yt. ■' ' r ■^■Jfpr^■V•»•■^ it-nK.i~ l.l-jl- t iK-.Ur.^ ■v.t. Vj.jrtr.f'a «^r "t H >'tt . i«M> ii'i-»u; - >..t ih^ f (l:^^ Oil ,-. ■ rTii^f .■.li-tT »i i % K*^* .ivV ' ' 'J « «-i*:«!. ill \ ^(^li^ -'*c'- n^mtH in . .«;fcir ',» am ilt - OB •rn '■«>«}, 'htm : sm^mirif*. PINLAYSON CHAWKL. 2!) In clear weather local pilots use tiic Alexandra Passa-io luitween the "titer rocks and the shore east from them. It is stated that there is a j';().k1 clear passnjie and no kno vn dangers not shown on the latest charts. It shouUl not be attempted without local knowledije or a ,)ilot. SA I LI N(; DIRECTIONS KOI! Mil, HANK H{)nNn. I. I'VoiH the r. tiraiti. — On leaving Seat'orth Channel the navigator should keep in inid-ehannci f.ntil Sonnd Point >.• urs SE. by S. I S., to avoid the rocks near Ivory Island. A elcin- p;is.s;ige exists .,n (itiu" sideof the White Rocks, hnt the one nsnally taken is that to the northward, — wA api)roaching them within a mile. From a po.sition in mid-channel, between Iviny Island and Sound Point, the course i.^ WWW. seven miles, when a due north com-se will carry clear of all dangers into Finlayson Channel, in mid-channel. This course leads about a niilc! to the northward and eastward of the White Rocks. The southwestern shores of the Wright grou|)are almost unknown and should not be approached within a mile. No information is at hand in regard to the currents of this vicinity, against the etltrt of which the navigator .should be on his guard, especially in foggy weather. The v;'.riation of the conipass is stated to have been 26° 10' E. in IHtiS. II. Front the. Xofthteard. — From a position in mid-channel, with North Islet bearing E NE. two and a quarter miles, the course is SE. by E. \ E., eight miles, for the entrance of St>aforth Channel, passing a mile t« the northward of tin.' reef near the 'A'hite Rocks. An obstructed channel, called Schooner Fassat^j, leads to the WNW. from the northern part of Milbank Sound, cutting oft" Price from Swindle Island, and directly to the eastward from this entrance lies Point Jorkins, the northwestern headland f)f the entram to Finlay.son CliMnnel. The land upon which Point Jorkins is situated is known as Swindle Island, (though several islands may be included in it,) and forms a portion of the western shores of Finlayson ( 'hannel. FINLAYSON CHANNEL extends between Dowager and Rotlerick islands on the east and I'rince.ss J'oyal Islands on the west, twenty-four miles, in a generally NNW. direction from its entrance to Carter Hay. Tlu^ name might, without detriment, be held to cover that portion of the same chaimel extending from the vicinity of Carter Bay to Point Kingconie, a distance of .some thirty miles more, after which it takes a sharp i)end to the W SW. The first portion of the channel averages two miles in width, with more than one hundred fathoms of water. The shores are hold-to, clear of dangers, and only in two localities are there any rocks or islets in the channel, and these are insignifiiant. The shores are densely wooiletl, tlu? timber cxleiiditig to the height of fifteen hundred feet on the mountain glides, while the peaks, chwcly approaching the shores of the channel, rise in a precipitous manner to the height of nearly three thoii.sand feet on cither hand, with higher mountains beyond them. Pat<'hes of snow in the ravines are reported in August, and probably exist throughout the ycir. From these and from various lakes at a high altitude ca.scades of remarkable height and beauty f'dl down the abrupt mountain Hanks, and in some (■ases swarm with salmon in tlii;ir sea.-on, atliirding a bountiful supply of food t<, the Indians of this region. Tiie tides in this part of the chamutl arc little known, but the flood runs to the north waid with a force at times of several knots. The lea.-;t water reportem|)aratively level action, sparsely covered with herbage, anrox!- mately in Latitude 52° 31' ?f" N. Longitude__ 128° 27' .6 W. It is H. W. F. Mild C. at O'' 0'", and spring tides rise twelve feet. This cove is ri'prescnted by a plan on British Admiralty Chart No. 1-J6'2, dated to December, 1S72. Hence northward the shore has been only sufMirficially examined for fifteen miles, and in this stretch are the entrances to several unexplored bays, inlets, or jjassages. In about Mary Cove. latitude 52° 37' N., on the eastern side of the channel, is th(! entrance to Mary Cove, of small extent, with nine fathoms water and good protection except from the .southward. The western shore of Finlayson Channel northward from Point Jorkins is compact and bold-to, rising to nearly two tliou.sand feet within a short distance of the jjassage. About seven miles north- ward from the point is a narrow entrance between the shore of Swindle Island and Cone Island. the southern termination of Cone Island, which forms a narrow conspicuous promon- tory. The island derives its name from Bell Peak, a peculiar w '"ill mountain, which is situated on the island in latitude 52° 34' ^ N., alx)ut a mile northward from the point, and which attains a height of twelve hundred and eighty feet.f Cone Island extends somewhat more than three and a half miles in a NW. and SE. dirc-ction with a width of alM)ut half a mile, and between it and Swindle Island is an exceedingly narrow*pa8.sage, having eight to thirty fathoms water, and known as Klemtoo Pa'^sage. This |)as.«age Klemtoo Passage. pos.ses,ses the advantage of affording anchorage almost anywhere, and in it the strength of the tide does not appear to exceed a knot an hour at any time. KlemtcKj Piissage extends parallel with Cone Island for three and a half miles in a NW. and SE. direction. The shores of Coiie Island appear bold-to. Within a reasonable distance no dangers are indicated. Theopjwsite shores of Swindle Island are, on the contrary, considerably indented with coves oi" small extent and i)ordcrcd for sonu! disttnce by islets. Navigators will do well to keep within threc-(juarters of a cable of the Cone IshiP.^I shore, nidess intending to anchor on the western side. The clear pa.«sagc .scms to be almost exactly one cable iti least widtli, and the average width is about a cable and a half. The soiitliern points of entrance to rhe pjissage are Bare Point, the .south- ciistern extreme of Cone Island, having a r(K-k at its ba.'^c and n^pri'sented a.« bold-t". and Islet Point, W. by S. about four cables from the former. This consi.sts of some small rocky islets connected bv reel's with a small promontory, high, ])arallel with Swindle Island, with which it is connected bv low land, and having a cove with a sandy Ix-ach SW. from its northwestern and another W. from its south- eastern extreme. In line with and NW. from the ridge forming this promontory, and between it and Base Point, of the Swindle Island shore, a distance of a mile, is a line ( f idcln ne Island by a passage having eleven to forty f ithoms water and half a mile wide called South Passage. Between .lane Island and the lanil westw^ard from it the furrow of Klem- too Passage is continuetl, widened to a third of a mile and deepened to over forty fathoms. At the southern extreme of the island, just within the Soiitii Passage, is n kelp patch, extending a cable from shore, and marking a xanken. rock. Berry Poiui, o|)en from Legge Point, and l)earing SE. by S. J 8., leads clear of this obstruction if South Passage be entered only within three and a half ctddes of Wedge Point. In North Passage, at the northern end of Sunken Hock. Jane Island, a similar danger exists, marked by kelj), and within a cable and a half of tl'.e Jane Island shore. This passage is half a mile wide, with deep water, in which whirls are some- times caused by the tide. It is boundal on the north by the southern end of Saudi Island, which extends some fifteen miles to the N NW., with a greatest width of two and a half miles, rising in peaks from fifteen hundred to two thousand feet in height. TOLMIE CHANNEL. Between Sarah Island and the shore to the westward, parallel with the island, is the comnuNlious tiiongh narrow Tol Ml ie Channel, which reunites with tin; northern extension of Finlayson Channel somewhat inrire than a mile beyoi'd the point where the latter is obstructed by the dangerous IfrwitI Rock. Tolmie Chaiinel averages about a mile in width, with very deep wa r, forming a virtual continuation of the dtp/iession kno„''i as Klemtoo Passage, without serious obstru ■ ins, and apparently preferable for navigation to the northern part of Finlayson I'haiiiiel. Three ( ir miles northward from its south.cni entrance are unsurveycd o|)enings on its western side, apparv,: ly leading toward Laredo Channel. TIDES. Hereabouts the establishment isO''0°', ti'e flcwd to the northward, the ebb running out au hour and a half after slack wa*8r in Finlayson Channel. Less than half a mile southward from the northern extreme of Sarah Island, ch se in under the ea.stern shore in Tolmie Channel, AHunkeii rock is marked on Biitish Admiralty Chart No. 192.'i, which is really a small wooded islet standing well out from the shore and no sunken rock is known in this passage. From Mary Cove northward for twelve miles t'< d" entrance of the narrow part of Finl.iyson Channel, the eastern shore has been but partly e.v iac". There is one large opening, |irovi,-ionally I 1 twenty-five fathoms water, .Kurr(iiiiiiage leading to the northwest, westward from Carter Bay, for about twenty miles, is denom- inat(d by English authorities Graham Reach and Hiehish Narrows.t The width here diminishes to less than a mile, with very precipitous shores! The narrows connect Finlayson Channel with the Reach, and are about five and a half miles long NW. I>y W. and SE. by E., and lialf a mile wide. Some incongruities appear in the diiferent accounts of tiiis passag(>, as will be seen. Vancouver states that at a distance of four miles trom the entrance, N. 55° W. (true), the channel having narrowed to a fourtli of a mile, the Chatham suddenly found only six fathoms wat;r on n shoal stretching from the mtinentjd ~;hore into mid-channel, which he pa-^iion thewer*lern side in eighteen v, i twenty fathoms water. This, the narrowest t>i)rt of thi' chuiniel, wiis made .so li\ a high, round, projecting part of the south- appearing !'kc an island. An islaiu! is indi«»ted at this p.)int on his chart. By British .Vdmiralty (^hart No. 1923, corr»rted to December, 1,S74, it appears that five miles N. 61° W. I'roni the iiitfjuice, a slight d'stsuHv from iiiid-channel, toward the western shore, is the Jhwiti Korl;, with eight feet <«« )t at \i-% water, to the westward of which, close to the shore -r Sarah Island, is an island. 'rv> direction given by the chart for this locality is to Irn -he norfkcrn shore 'thoard. A; \h\< point, according to tlie re[)ort of Assistant George Davidson. I . r. Coast Survey, "tlie pf,vv»»r» i ■ cntr.icted and the depth of water shoals to a few liitlKinis." The A.amiralty Charf , howev -i . - v ,-v thirty-one and t-rty-five fathoms close to the ro<^k. The r. S. Coasi Survey Steamer Hnmor, m 1^ >i, soundwi in t' is vicinity, and Lieut. Com. H.- E. Nichols, U. S. N., comnumding, rep >rss thuv w^cii the landslide on the east shore was abeam, at high\vater cC spring tide, (Aug. ,1. 1 I.Sh ■> m.,, eleven aud three-ipiarter fathoms, rocky bottom, was obtained, (■( I ual to abou', niue iathon^ u low water. No bottom :ti fifteen fathoms was obtained imineef(m' and after this cbjU.. StpajT tide-rips and eddies were obscrvwl in this vicinity. Vancouver's "nx-k" was prolubly this same ridp' of which Hen-ili Ro-;!,- is the highest known i>eak, and lies o:i .i line joining the landslide ami the southern end ol the small isinin'. A mill W NW. from Hewitt lloi K is th( northern eiitrnnceof Tol-ti*- (.''hannel. from the Tiorthern point of Sarah Island, on the cniincntal shore ■- ar unsurvevcf inated Gn-en Inlet. In the vicinity of latitude 5.S N. the width ol ilie jtttssiige is a little k*s Than two, fifths 'if a mile. About two miles to the s.>utliwar<' of Um^ entrainv h) Swanson Bay thirty-eight fathoms are reported, .-.ix and a half miles to the northward tixmi Howitt Rock. A mile northward from thif. clos«> on the western sk>.>', is Carpoll l>Vt, a small low islet. not on the chart, and disi-overed by Captain Carroll of the ste«M^r Chliinniia in Mav, 18W. •Nannid by Viiti.'ouver f..r .me of Urn crev , wV.o dinl «K>in wttinK i>...-«».i»f iiiiiKecli., ami -.vw tHiricU h»r» JfjM It. MB tMiMprllwl BlekUa en Untioli Aduiimlt;, i.htli Sf. ISW3, ' ^f' Graham Reach. /lock reported by Vancouver. western .«ho.e, HemUt Rock. NNW two miles oiwning denora- ;il I 1*3, ■*•»« IH H.OVAL. f|; .^ ! I t i I:- i i ^- } f'hafh ti tti K Sft ti n ft iBE . . , V,\ /''^ .j « • THE INLANL SWANS ON BAY TO ( (British /uit SOUNDINGS IN p!.A'i';;iro.T^c:. k'i m f^i. IIOI.MKH HAV. :I3 On (lie citiitiiicntiil aliort', in l:ititus,s Royal Island, here forming the western houndary of tlu^ passage, is Bed ClitT Point, olf which the soundings shoal to forty-live fathoms, siuid, and the pas.sag(>, three-tifths of a mile wide, suddenly expands to a mile atid a half, with mountains rising three thor :ind I'eet on either hanil. A lake sends a large stream into the southern hight of this expansion, whire there is a salmon fishery and Indian summer village, and an unexploreile and a iialf long ciwt and west, very narrow, high, and with deep water on either side. About W. by N. J N. from the western end of Warke Islanlet is connected with the mainsliorebyasand beach. There is imly room for a small boat; according to Pilot W. E.George, a seventy-ton seliooner anchored in twenty fathoms tails on to tlu^ beach. There is a deep gorge just north of the cove. The other arm, known as McKay lieacli, takes a generally W SW. direction seven miles to Wright Sotind. Tie Reach averages a mile and a half wide, bold-to, with riK-ky shores and liigh land on either shore. The northwestern extreme of Prina'.ss Royal Island, McKay Reach, seven miles SW J W. from Point Kingcome, is («lled Nelly Point. The opp{)site headland, the southern [)oint of (Jribbell Island, about two and a half miles distant in a NW. by W. J W. direction, beai-s the name of Point Cumming. Directly SE. from Nelly Point lies Holmes Bay.f This bay or (Mive opens to the we,st, unJ indents the shore of Princess Royal Island to the extent of half a mile with a width of about four cables. The shores iire bold anil tin; water deep, except at tlu; head and along the southern shore, where there is a tidal flat formed by the detritus from several streams. Anchorage may be had ort'this Hut, a distance not much over two hundred yanls, in fourteen to twenty fathoms. On a small rocky point on the southern shore is the Kuglish astronomical station, which is .stated to he in Latitude 63° 16' 25" N. Longitude 129° 05' 19" W. It is H. W. F. and C. at l' 0", — springs rising thirteen and neaps ten feet. The variation of the compiuss in 186.S was 26" 40' E. The anchorage is represented on British Admiralty Chart No. 1901. No directions are necessary for entering it. The irregular sheet of water whi"h intervenes between McKay Reach and the entrance to Gren- ville Channel is known as Wright Sound, from which, besides the foregoiiig, Verney Passage and Douglas Channel extend northward, and Whale Chamiel, Lewis and Wright Sound. Cridge jjassages to the .southward. Whale and Squally channels, with Lewis Passage and Wright Sound, surround Oil Island, nanu'd by Caamano in 17!)2, according to Vancouver. It is fifteen miles long N NW. and S SB., nearly six miles in width, and rises near its northern end in a ])eak, cjdled Mount Gil,| to the height of three thousand feet. *Kllutze ami Aaltanbasb are tlie |ire»iiinc(l Iiiiliiin iiaineK iit'tlu'sc liilHtK, wliicli apiiiiii- to liu fXleiiHivf. tTliin is the naini' wliich aii|ii'ai's iipmi tin- I'laii "ii liritisli Adniiinliv Cliail tin. I'.iOI. Imlli liie nlil ami new eJ23 it i» alwi called Holmes Bay, Iml mi the latent editiun Homes Bay, imilialilv li^- accident. <.>ii llie eery I impeifect nriliHli Admiralty Cliait Xn. 'M'M> it in called Horne Bay, ', The name in usually ininKp.?lled OUl. P. c. P. — 5 -n; 84 COCaiLAN AN( HORAtn:. r.i » 1 ■ m i i 1^ Tlio Farrant Islnnd shores of Wright Sound niid (irenville Chaniiul show, for tliis region, an uniiHiml aniounl of low and h.'vcl land, Tiu' tides hcrcalioiitH are stated to Jfooil to tlw northmml, and the depth of water it* very great. Vancouver found anchorage on the nortlieasfern si(K' of (Jil Ishind two nuhfi from its northern extremity, in forty fathoms, stones, shells and sand, HlM>ut a enhle from the sliore; ARohortoe, fill ""•! "''*"' '" tliirty-three and forty-three fathoms, siind and mud, soutliwesterly from Itlind. 'J'lirtle I'oint, the NW. extreme of (eil Island, — the adjacent shores hearing from S. hy E. round liy E. to NE. hy E., the opjiosite sliore ahout half a league distant. The extremity of Turtle Point has no very niarked hill on it, tiioiigh something of the kind appears on the chart. Ahoiit N. ^ W., two anil a (piartcr mili's from Tnrtle I'oint, is Cape Farewell, ratlicr low, densely wocided, and the southern extreme of Promiso Island. This island is ahout two miles long N NW. and 8 SE. and over a mile wide, (according to the i>!an,) rising to seventeen hundnMl Rocks off Thorn feet, and separated from the mainland at the SW. extreme of i)()uglas Channel hy a Point narrow passage known as Coghlan Anchorage. 'I he SW. extreme of I'romi.se Island, forming the eastern headland of this passage, is calleuthern headland of Camp Point. Klewnuggit Inlet, an irregular indentation of the main .shore, dividing into several arms, .some of wliicii have not yet iieen fully e-xaniini-d. The prineijial of these have a generally WW. ami SB. direi-tion, transverse to the entranir- and parallel with Urenville Channel. In that arm whieh extends to the NW. protected anchonige is af!ordestruete«l by nx-ks and islets. The entrauce to Klewnuggit Inht is al)out six ad)les wide N NW. and S SE. The .shore op|H)site Camp Point rounds gradually to the <'a8twarfl ami westward without forming aiiy noteworthy point or angle, and rises rapidly to the height of more ihan twelve hundred feet. » Six cables NB. J E. from Camjt Point lies Bare Islet, of small extent, counei't*-*! with tlie shore by a rock platform, and forming one of the landmarks for clearing Morning Reef. It is ri?ally a |>art of Leading Island, about one hundred and twenty feet high, of triangular outline, Bar* Ulet. which extends from liare Islet about half a mile in a NW. by N. J N. direction to its northern angle, and is sepurates is a narrow but deep opening, which fnmi Grenville Channel apfiears to cut Pitt Island in two, and may join the eastern arm of Petn-I ('lumnel. NW. by N. J N. across the channel from this entraiu* is Weat Inlet of the pilots.! It has a narrow entrance, just within which it turns sharply, and is stattjd to affonl gotnl p.'otcction and anchoruge for small craft. It has not been surveyed. In this portion of Grenville Channel the tides are moderate, averaging a knot an hour, and flood from the northwestx.ard. Staart Anohera|«. Twenty-six miles from the eniraiiee of Ix>we Inlet, on the Pitt Island shore, lies Stuart or Stewart Anchorage. Before reaching this j)oint two small indentation^ occur which might l)e mistaken for the ancho.-- age, which, in cjining from the eastward, may lif> known by being situated tv'o and a Mark*. half miles to the \v(«t\vaid from the entrance of West Inlet on the northern shore, the misleading indentati(nis being one on either side of a point imm.-Mliat«ly abreast of the above-mentioned entrance. The anchorage is shelt«rekK lik« an ernir of Miaravliiif t Enm-M-lOB of Brit'iHli Adinintlly ClinH No. \Vt.\ A. - ;| . h \^ BMA OODEN CHANNEL. 87 8W. by w. i W. half a mile from Stag Rock a the English astronomical station, Hituatcd according to British Atimiralty Chart No. 1901,* on the Pitt Island 'shore, in Latitude 63° 82' 06" H. Longitude _ 180° 06' U" W. The variation of tlie cnmpass was 37° 36' E. in 1868. In this vicinity it is H. W. F. and O. at noon to l** p. m., springs rising twenty feet. Between the rock and Bonwick Point there is fifteen to twenty-seven fathoms, iK'tween it and the mouth of the stream before mentioned there is six to twelve fathoms, while between the shoal and the Pitt Island shore the depth varies i'rom seven to twenty-four fathoms. In entering from the eastward the only direction necessary is to keep about a quarter of a mile Dinetioa for from Bonwick Point and the shore south of the anchorage until tlie mouth «.f the »ni»ring. stream bears SB. half a mile, when anchorage may be had \n from ten to fifteen fath- oms. This anchorage is delineated on British Admiralty Chart No. 1901, (Octolwr, 1879.) Just behind the peninsula which protects the anchorage is Shrimp Cove, said to have six or seven fathoms water and to be snug for small coasters. It is not shown on the charts. Five miles west of Htuart Anchorage, at the NW. extreme of Pitt Island, is Hill Point, a some- what low, symmetrical, wou<.1ed point, seimrating the entrances of Grenville and Ogden channels and l»ickcd by slowly rising hills to the soulhwarrl, which reach nearly twenty-eight hundred feet in height. Grenville Channel here attains a width uf four mile», with a group ' comparatively low wooded islands in the middle of the passage, called the Oiboon lalanda. The passage northeast from Hic Gibsons has not more than six fathoms in it, and is infested with geceral ahoatti, from which reasons the passage to the soutli of the Gibeons, which is clearer, with plenty of water, has come to be generally used. Here the watAr rapidly deepens from forty to eighty fathoms toward the westward. In going through at night keep not less tlian five cables 8W. from tfie Gibsons to avoid Watnon Rook, which (K>ver8 two or three feet at high-water springs. Thence to Arthur pas- sage is clear. From the sheet of water at the termination of Grenville Channel three other passages ojieu, — two to the north and west, l)etween Porcher Island on the SW. and the mainland on the NE., with Ken- nedy Island and the Gibsons dividing the included waters into two possages; the third, OOJ>EN CHANNEL, between Porcher and Pitt islands, leads to the Hecate Strait in a southerly diret^tion. The o{)ening where it joins the strait, now known as Browning Entrance, was called Syax Harbor by Ingraham in 1791. It varies from less than half a mile to more than two miles in width, and is about fifteen miles long. Its southerly extreme has lately received separate names. A passage has been sounded through it, but the shores are yet imperfectly known, and there arc numerous dangers and obdrutHiont, most of which, however, are visible.f S. by "W. J W. from Hill Point four and a half miles is Alpha Bay, on the Alpha Bay. eastern shore of Ogden Channel and on the Pitt Island shore. It !s situated at the mouth of a stream proceeding from a deep valley, and the anchorage is off tlie edge of a bank at the * F«hruM7, 1868, but uot un later editiunt. ("0((out three miU* wide. At its southeastern end, miscalled Cardena Bay, (for there is no bay, but a mere open roadstead,) go«Ml holding-ground may l)c liad in four to nine fathoms.* There was at one time a cimnery here. At the NW. entrance to Arthur Passage White Cliff Island, of small extent, lies in the middle of the passage, Iwld-to exce])t at its rockv 8 BE. end, two hundred and sixty feet high, ond with a clear channel on either side. Marble has been quarried here. SW. by 8. i 8. ''rom the southern {mrt of this island about a mile lies Chalmers Anchorage olf a bight at the NW. end of Elliott Island, open to the NW., with anchorage in fourteen fathoms. NW. j W. from the anchorage about a mile and a half is the northeastern edge of tome reefs which lie immediately eastward tliree cables from Bamfleld islets, which are also Chalissrt surrounded by rocky shelving shores. The islets lie about a quarter of a mile from the Anohorags. northern shore of Elizabeth Island. Deep but narrow passages exist Ixitween this, the islets and the reef. From tfic reefs to OeoU Patch the passage is six rabies wide with plenty of water. In leaving the Arthur Passaec to the westward of White Cliif Island for Chatham Sound through Malacca Passage, the middle ))eaK of Wliite Cliff Island should be brought to bear E. } 8. and kept so until the northwestern Lawyer Islet bears NE. This carries out in nnd-chaimel. Cecil Patch, markc^l by kelp and having four fathoms on it, lies one mile W. by 8. from the main peak of White Cliff Island. It is in one with the eastern edge of Elliott Island licaring 8E. j^ E. There is deep water between it and Elizabeth Island. DIE'XTIONB FOB CLEARING OANaERS. A due W. course from the northern edge of White Cliff Island five miles will carry clear of all dangers. The latter, as far as known, are mostly visiblej but great caution should l)e observed, especially in foggy weather. Malacca Passage liegins at White Cliif Island, and extends west for about six milex with an aver- age clear width of a mile and a quarter. Its northern limits are formed hy foul r/round stretching to the westward for more than two miles from the northwestern end of Kennedy Island, and the Genu tlon from iti Junclloii witli the Skcena. From thii channa!, auoordtng to llr. H. J. Ctmbtc, come th« greuter part of tlie ice- flwa wliiub encumber Skeeiia Inlet in tlie cold eeaion. Behind the flat on which the Tillage ttanda ia a ridge which riara in one place to a rather remarkable conical mounty Captain Brundige who anys it ia only expoeed to S. and iW. winda. There were three housea, a wharf iind clearing, Indian ounimer village, and wood for aale to eteamers, in May 1880, at tbia pl.»ee, which ia called Inverness or Aber- deen fishery. Chalnmra Anchorage ie also reported to lie a good temporary stopping place in eaae of fog or darkneas on reaching Chatham Sound. ] ^i :r!i ii.li ! '■! (■ 1 i m L 40 EI»YE AND BKOWN PASHAtJUM. am 1 Ixiwver wlfte fxtonv th«' shore of Elizalwth and Porchcr islands, extending Malaeoa PUMM. »« the westward nix miles from" the entrumv of Arthur Fa&een examined, and there the depth is quite irregular, varying from eleven to more than one hundred fathoms. The shores of the sound have been but slightly examined, espe<-ially on the NE,, between the Telegraph Passage and Lima Point, and all statements iu regard to its navigation are necessarily based upon scant material, which will doul>tlcss in the future require revision. No serious (^mcealed dangers are indicated on the lastcst charts (1879) in the northeastern *part of the sound between the Lawyer and the Lucy islands. In the northern ])iirt of the sound several sun^ rocks are iudicate<1, but of which the positions are somewhat doubtful. A danger has recently I>een reported in Brown Passage which is not on some n%ent charts, and therefore v.'orthy of mention here, though the passage itself v'll not be dcsiTibed. This Stanhoute is Stenhoime Shwil, reported by Capt. George Brown, U. S. N.,§ as lieing five miles west Shoal. by south a quarter south from Hanmer llocks and four miles southward from the western Connel Islet. This is three-fourths of a mile N NW. fnmi the fioeition indicated by local pilots, but neither position is claimed t.) be more than an approximation. Captain Brown considered tlie shoal to he two or three cables in extent and to have about eight feet of water on it. Thirteen and a quarter miles NW. } N. from the western extreme of Point Hunt is the sorthern point of Tugwel! Island, so-ciilled, though united at half-tide by a mnd-bar, a mile Tb|w«II Island, and a quarter long, with the Chim-sy-an Peninsula. This island is about two hundred feet high, wooded, with blnfi" shores to.the licach, whence, except to the eastward, /ou/ ground, sand-bars and kelp extend seaward from half to three-quarters of a mile. The southern end is called Point Dawes, and the northwestern Point Chopman. The island is about a Sand-bar. mile and a quarter long, and at its widest |inrt half a mile broad. From the northern shore a sand-bar, covered at half-flood, extends NE. by E. } E. a mile and a quarter to the mainland, which it joins at Observation Point. * Varioaiijr ipallad Ohlm-Mta, TilmpMUi, fte.; property accMitad on the lut Ryllable, tin eoniiTCtion with ihc uinuKl nport of th« Survey fur 187!>-'riU, 8to, Montreal, Dawaon Bm«, 1881. tBotb of these are repreaented in detail on Brit!-h Admiralty Cliart No. 84^3, (October, 1W9,) with plana of anchoragea Id them. It liea outtide the aoopa of thlt work to entei Into deacriplion of theie paaiingea, wl.iuh for the Inland Pamage are onlr of lubordinate importance. Brown Paaiagu ie the Derby Sound of InKraham in 1791. $ U. 8. Navy Department, Hydrographic Office, Hydrographic Notice No. '■/}, 1379. im^^H' MRTLA-KATI.A BAT. 41 SW., about four miles from Point DaweB, is the Lucy group of islets, small, bold-to, and two hundred feet high. According to British Admiralty Chart No. 1923A, (December, 1881,) 8. by B., somewhat more thaii five miles from Point Dawes, is the Alexandra Patch, a mile in extent, with eleven to seventeen fathoms, sand and mud, surrounded by deep water. AltMandm To the eastward from Tugwcll Island and the bar lies Metla-katia Bay,* wlu^re is Paieh. situated the well-known village and mission of Metla-katla. The liay is alnrnt three miles in extent N. and S. and a mile and a half wide, — the <-ontraote«l upiier |iortion of it near the mission taking the name of Venn Creek. It is protected by the mainland, Tugwell Bar and Island on all sides, except the south. In the inner {wrt of the bay ci>mi>letely Metla-katla Bay. sheltered anchorage may be had m Venn Creek, requiring, however, good local knowf- (!dge or a pilot to pass safely between the reefs, rocks and islets by which the Imy is infested. The shores throughout are bordered by thoah or foul ground. At the eastern part of the entrance lie the three Cridge Islets, of small extent, ree|>ectively two feet, one hundred and one hun'ired and fifty feet high. North vard from them for nearly a mile to Straith Point are rocks, reefs an' foul ground. Nearly midway between these islets and the kelp ground almiit Point MIfonI Httft. Duwee are the Al/ord Keefo in the middle of the entran(« with dnnijerou^i »unken rochi, usually marked by kelp, with a small dry patch at lowest water. Inside the reef is a dear ground of alxmt a mile in extent, where anchorage may be hod on rather uneven bottom in seven to twenty fathoms. To the northward of this numerous reefs and islets occur. The more important of these are as follows: Devastation Island, one hundred and fifty feet high, wooded and less than a Siuarter of a mile in extent, nearly a mile VJt. by E. from Point Dawes; three-quarters of a mile arther, on the same bearing, lies Pike Island, also woodeA BAY. I. ire«<«rar« ft-tn Atf*r* BBtfm. — A course bringing Knight Island midway between Shrub and Pike islands NNE. \ E. leads clear of the reefs. When the vessel is in one with Dawes Point bearing W NW. and the largest Cridge Island bearing E SE., a W. by W. course about one mile leads to the anchorage in ten to fifteen fathoms, mud, NW. from Devastation Inland. The channel to the inner or Venn Creek anchorage is buoyed, but should not be attempted with- out a pilot. Three and a quarter fathoms can be carried into it over the bar at low water, but within the bar there is anchorage in ten or twelve fathoms, sand and shell, with a swing of one cable in every direction. II. Bmmt^Kmr* fr*m AV*r* lUmf*. — A course bringing the Mission flag-staff in one with the west point of Pike Island W. by E. leads clear of the reefs. When within the line joining Dawes Point and the larger Cridge Islet, anchorage may be had in seven *o twenty fathoms midway between Straith and Dawes points. Dunoan Bay lies northward from Tugwell Island and its associated shoals, affording a much better and less obstructed anchorage than Metla-katla, but open to westerly winds. The shores, as in Metla-katla Bay, are everywhere foul or bordered by shoal water. The/ou/flrownd extends off the northern shore of Tugwell Island, and the shore of the mainland, in some places, over six cables length. 'Spelled MUalt-asHall on Britkh Admiimlty Cbarta. P. o. P. — 6 43 DUNOAN AND BIO DAYS. ,f« The i/orfoaon Reeh, a Berios of dnngcrcufl rock« and shoals, are HoparatecJ from the shoals of the mainhind by a narrow and inadvisable passape. 'f h« southern extreme of these reefs Tht is situated somewhat over a mile and a lialf W. by 8. from Point Kyan, whence they Hodgion Rteft. ext«nd in a N. by W. direction marly two milts with an average width of more than half a mile. A large iwitcli in the southern portion is unoovere*! alter halt-ebb. Ihey do not seem to liave lieen very thonmghly examined. ■ ^s The entrance to Duncan Bay, however, is clear and free from dangers, and there are no impeding islets or rocks in the more convenient (K.rtion of the anchorage. This bay and vicinity are represented with Metla-katla on British Admiralty Chart No. 8«}, April, 1872, with jmiwrtant correctiOEj of the older editions. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF DUNCAN HAY. Fn)m a position at the entrance. Point Chopman, Tiigwell Islaiwl, liearing SE. nearly a mile, and Point Ryan NB. by N. a little more than a mile, the course is E. a mile and a half to the anchorage. At the position mentioned, nearly in mid-channel, the entran<-e, clear of foul ground, is about a mile wide, and eight fathoms is the least water to be found on the com-se given. At the anchorage seven or eight fathoms, sandy and muddy bottom, may 1x3 had— the three-fathom curve over a cable distant to the north or south. About two cables farther in on the same course lieu Heoale Rock, in ten and a half feet, with Point Chopman bearing SW. by W. i W. and Carr Islet 8. by J3. To avoid this danger navigators should anchor before Point Ryan bears to the westward of NW, i W. In leaving the bay, bound to the northward, the course from the anchorage is W. until Point Ryan bears S NH., or nothing to the northward of W. by N. until two and a quarter miles to the westward from Point Ryan. From Duncan liay northward toward the eastern part of Dixon Entrance Chatham Sound is protected by the Duiidas Islands, and at its northern entrance is licset with numerous little-known rocks, reefs and islets. For six or seven miles N NW. from Tugwell Island the shore of the mainland is fringed with foul ground and should not be approached within two miles without extreme caution. In the vicinity of Tree Blu£f these westerly extending reefs project to a mile and a half. The bluff is marked by some cultivated ground and rises inland to two hundred and fifty feet. Immediately northeastward from the bluff the shore is indented, forming Big Bay, about two and a third miles wide at the entrance, N NW. and 8 SE., and extending some three miles in an easterly direction. Its native name is reported to be Lak-hou.* The northern headland is Big Bay. formed by South Island, about a cable and a half in extent, one hundred and fifty feet high, wooded and connected with the mainland by a nheet of foul ground, drj at low water and a mile in width. 8. bv W. from this island, /ou/ ground, marked by kelp, extends three and a half cables. The western snores are also foul and should not be approached within two cables. According to Brundige, Big Bay has good anchorage at its head, in four to ten fathoms, fairly sheltered. The entrance, however, is diificult and shotild not be atternpied teithout good local knowledge. The southern headland of Big Bay is Point Trenham, the northern angle of Tree Bluff off which, about W. by N. | N., the three-fathom line is only reached at the distance of a mile. The shores of the bay are all foul, and in its entrance, aboiit mid-channel, is the Hippie Re»fi and bankt. Bank, 8. by W. | W., nearly a mile from South Island, including a patch with only two fathoms on it ; and the Egcape Reejs, two patches, marked by kelp, about two cables each in extent, and somewhat within the Ripple Bank. These reefs bear from South Island respectively 8. by W. and 8. by B. about a mile,— bath having small lumps dry at low water. Besides tliese, other dangers exist within the bey, which, it will readily he seen, is not to be recom- mended. In its eastern portion, near the northern shore, Swallow Islet, of small extent, rounded and rather high, is used as a landmark in entering Big Bay. About two and a half cables N. from the northern part of South Island, and connected with it by foul ground at low water, is Burnt-Cliff Island, half a mile long N NW. and 8 8B., averaging two cables wide, and rising, at its northern summit, one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet. Within the bay 't is H. W. F. and C. at l' SO", —springs rising seventeen to twentv-two feet and neap tides fourteen to seventeen feet, according to British Admiralty Chart No. 2426, (March, 1872,) upon which this vicinity is delineated in detail. The geographical position of the 8. end of South Island appears to be, according to British authorities. Latitude 64° 29'.1 N. Longitude 180° 28'.4 W. * On BritUh Admlnltjr Chart Mo. 3430 tbii bay is called Pnllty Ovlf. PEARL HARBOR. 48 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR EMTERINO BIO BAY. According to British authority, by lStu'ah Point just comes out l)ehind the northeastern angle of Fortune Point N. by W. J W., when a northerly mid-chaniiel («ursc may be safely steered through Cunning- ham passage. In leaving the passage by the same channel a mid-channel course between the Flat-Top Islets and Fortune Point may be safely maintained until licading Peak is in one with the northern side of Green Mound Islet, astern, when a W. l>y S. J S. course carries out all clear. On account of the more thorough survey which has been made of Cunningham Passage, which is represented in detail on British Admiralty Chart No. 2426, (March, 1872,) most navigators adopt it in preference to passing westward from Finlayson Island. N. J W. a mile and a half from Point Gordon, the northern end of Finlayson island, BIrnie Uland. ig the southern end of Birnie Island, seven or eight cables long N. and S., nearly three cables wide, and rising to a height of more than three hundred feet. A mile and a third E. by N. J N. from Point Gordon lies the northeastern extreme of Cunning- ham Passage, known as Village Island, se|)arate(l from the mainland only at high water, which covers a low rocky isthmus and for the time converts the (Hiint into an island. It is alwut three cables long NW. and SE. and one cable wide, rising to fifty feet, and having along its shores numbers of Indian houses of the T'linkit pattern. On its northern point is the observation spot fn)m which most of the positions given on the British Admiralty Chart«* for this vicinity are computed, and which, according to British Admiralty Chart No. 2426, is situated in Latitude 64° 33' 61" N. Longitude 130° 26' 3e"W. From the western extreme of Village Island, SW. J W. about two cables, lie the Hankin Reefs, marked by kelp, and of which the westernmost patch has five fathoms close to it and Hankin Heeft. dries six feet at low water. These reefs are about two cables in extent, with a very narrow six-fathom passage between their eastern boundary and the western edge of tlie rocks off Village Island. Fortune Point shut in S. by E. J E. by the eastern edge of Sarah Point leads westward of Hankin Reefs in passing through Dodd Passage. Dodd Passage, between Cunningham Passage and Port Simjwon, is bounded by Village Island and Hankin Reefs on the E. and SB. and Harbor Reefs on the NW. and W. It is Dodd PMsage. about a cable and a half in width and half a mile long NE. and SW., carrying six or eight fathoms, and is used by the Hudson Bay Company's steamers. The western limits of Dodd Passage are constituted by the Harbor Reefs, an extensive patch of rocks and foul « » - ., ?T""/ "j't^^?, ^y i'fP' «nd lying «lraost centrally between Gordon Point, Birnie Harbor Rff: Island, and Vdlage Island, but somewhat nearer the last mentioned. A patch of rock just W NW. from Dodd Passage is only occasionally covered ; others farther westward are dry at low water. SW. from these reefs, between their outer limit and Point Gordon lies the 40 PORT 8IMP80V. From Point Gordon three miles W WW. lie Tht Pointert* three rocka. of which the southwestern one riBes about three feet above high woter and the rest iirc marked by kelp and breakers There i« ten or twelve fathoms quite close to the kelp over a rocky bottom. Theee rocks Tht PoinUn. were visited by iJrundige in 1»7{> with a small Imat. He reitorts them thirty feet in height (this, if at low wat/-i of Horinj,' tiost buildings; and a large garden, fenced in, outside of the stockade, where root crops are suocessfully cultivated. The land in the immediate vicinity of the fort is comparatively low, and so are the adjacent islands, but high land exists to the northward. The rocks are regularly stratified, mica schists passing into gneiss and granite, containing garnets, pyrite and quartz vems. Gold is reported to exist in the vicinity, but the statement requires confirmation. Except where cleared, the land is covered with a deuFC growth of timl)er and the soil is mossy and wet. The beach to the eastward of the jetty affords, in consequence of the great range of the tides, good fa(^ilities for laying large vessels out for purposes of cleaning or repairs. The cove, port and immediate approaches are shown on British Admirality Chart No. 2426, (cor- rected to March, 1872,) from earlier editions of which it api)ear8 that the stockade has been located by English obscrverat in Latitude ,._ 64° 33' 80" N. Longitude 130° 26' U" W. According to British authorities it is H. W, F. and C. at l'" 30", springs rising 17 to 22 feet and neaps 14 to 17 feet. The magnetic variation was reported at 27° 60' E. in 1866, in the edition of 1872 it is indicated as 27° 10' E., in 1881 the U. S. Coast Survey found it to be 27° 64.'l j2. The anchorage is situated NW. by N. \ N. from the entrant* of the stockade, somewhat over a quarter of a mile, and about a cable length from the three-fathom curve in any dilution. •Meade, llydi ograplilc Office, II. 8. N., Hjrdrograjihio Notice No. i:», lb«9, calls them PlTe Flllfon. ♦ Obaervatione by the U 8. Coart Survey in 1881. with a latitude of 84° 83' 28' H., reaulted in placing the longitude of the ••tronotnical italion at 180° 98' 10".6 W. of Greenwich. The slatiun was on the weat aide of the principal gate between the outer fence and the atoolcade. Tlie U. 8. Coaat Survey magnetic italion of 1881, occupie.1 by Lieut. Com. H. E. Niehola, II. 8. N., wm almoat direotlj in troni of and about two hundred feet from the new house erected for tlie bishop of the diocese. By compass the S. esdof Blmlclilandbora _ J(. B0° W. W. and of PlnUyioii Iil«nd bora ."""./." s! 7»o w' Otmreli aplre bora. _" V.Ilimillll"" "b! 16° w". The sUtion it about three hnndiwl yards from the main gate ..f the stockade. It was marked by a 10 X 10-inoh stick of pine timber painted white and standing about three feet above the surfiice. "Hie lepeiid "U. 8. Coast Survey, 1881," was cut on iU •Mward hoe. '^■^ PORT HIMPMOM. 47 The bottom Li undy and the depth eight or nine fathomit. The situation is well pn>(c«'t«4l from moet winda. Thia ii* the moat northern aeabnord port and anosed part of the harbor. From three months observations the rise and fall (>r tide waa found to be twenty-three feet at springs and fifteen to sixteen at neaps, scarcely influenced by winds."* . ^ ■ — — — — — ^-^^— ^— ^^-^^— — — — ^_^^.^_™^^^^____««^^,^^_ *R«port of Csplsin BrundlR*, 1880, p. IG&. Po" lOto sppmidls hwvwitk fi>r mttronAogf. H* tliHi rtmarkc, in nganl lo ih* olliaatf , " I WM ralikbly informed at Port BltnpMtn i th« mnnllM of Junt, Jul/ Mid Augiwt «r« tli* flnvtl ; that In fl«pt«m- b«r, Ootobar and MoTMFb«-r thrr* la a eunaidara' U an. l nf rain, eloudjr wralhrr and atroiig winda, but with rar/ llltia fng, •Imllar to Iha northwaat eoaat of Iraiand. During DaoaiilMir, January and Fabruary alrong Ralw, colli and fniat, rain and anow, the latter falling aumellmM to a depth of two feet, bm Joea not remain lung on the ground. It ia unuanal for the tliermometer (o fall below aero. March, April and May eomp 'i the prii -'pai rain.T aeaoi u at Piirt SImpaon, tut, ainuiga to aajr, tiie slimata of the region hereabouta rariea Terjr much, fur i. ..i flfteen milea off It ia quite diflerent." NoTB.— On aonie recently onrreoted Engliah Admiralty charta there art > umti arhilrary chanKn uf name* which tiare conin t2^ c^c,;i_ IV. "j.. Imnrli'il IdB. , IH'J < whitnuu:. , "t' „,^ -'""' ; z'^- — ^.wiiiiivPi. ,' / /7 \ • I'-iriii'-ii' / n,.^,*!s>_ T I ^" '* Omnmllli '"• ';'" :, . • I '*°°,.J'. A 4 •:« SpHijuwlrnvrh Hk , , [ V .-" ■■ v., M Z I, ~t .^ li£L . _ ■■ IV.io.' Ml ci«,.Mj,.o; I li£L l^\' '^ ta; ^■" ; ^ i MdfTut Irtn . V •*.!■„ 22 ,w > ,1, >• r.c. in » NuMlt-iiwltiiwU Kit .• . ^. |.<" UL _ .Lmi-... -waa. ■ llunil llifTlJJ- 1 l\ *, '- r\ffi!fJ>. A. i:i ' ^-j ', ^ «,.,».un'^,^.„ , (y-nmii^N -^^ .-. ill «. O \ * " '-' ^^\ .• ..jjllll luiol ,/ '' f^nltM... »» ^-k ^< 1^1^ Bmmm ■ u ■ i THE COAST OF ALASKA, THE COAST AND INLAND WATERS OF THE ALEXANDER ARCHIPELAGO. I. DIXON ENTRANCE TO CROSS SOUND. In the present state of knowledge it is impracticable to attempt to do more than give a verj brief outline of the hydrographical characteristics of that congeries of straits, inlets, islands, rocks and pas- sages composing the ALEXAXDEB ARCHIPELAGO, which extends northward from latitude 84° 30' N. through nearly five degrees of latitude and seven of longitude. The inforiaation on record is, in nearly all cases, of the most general character. The incomparable Vancouver is still the chief and most trustworthy authority, and for the rest it is nec- essarv to glean from the atlas and memoranda of TebieukoiT and a great number of scattered authorities details in regard to special localitirs ; which details — oAen recorded by persons not specially qualified for, or interested in, exploration, except so far as it related to their own commercial enterprises — must usually be taken as approximations only. Conflicting statements, confusion of name««, discrepancies between charts and verbal descriptions are so abundant and so perplexing as tn render the attempt to harmonize tliem both difficult and unsat- isfying. Hence it is premised that, in all cases where a definite authority is not cited, the information here given is the resultant of an examination of the various authorities whose names will be found in Appendix 1, and for the accuracy of which it is impossible to vouch. It it believed, however, that reference has been made to almost every authority on the subject whose observations are entitled to consideration, and that, however imperfect the result of this inquiry* may be, it nevertheless represedts fairly the present state of the knowledge of this region. Another difficulty has arise i which it is not believed could find a solution which would prove universally acceptable. The irregularity of the channels passing through the archipelago is such as to render the order in which they should be taken iip difficult to decide. For some reasons it seemed advisable to follow the main lines of commerce from I'ixon Entrance to Sitka and Wrangell, and make the rest subsidiary, at the cost of losing all geographical continuity in the description. It has been decided, however, not to adopt this course, but, while summarizing the commercial routes, to take the various portions of the archipehigo in geographic^' sequence from the south north- ward, by groups naturally distinguished among the islands, and from the shore of the mainland seaward, or from the east to the west. The archipelago, as a whole, extends in a generally ITW. and SE. direction more than two hundred and fiflty miles ; the inland waters which may be said to lielong to its system extend at least a hundred miles 'farther. The greatest breadth from the mainland to the ocean, SW. and NS., is about eighty miles. The number of islands included in it is very great ; an approximate estimate of those definitelr placed on the charts put&it at eleven hundred, which, were all existing rocks and Lalets enumerated, voqld doubtless be a very inadequate estimate. P.O. P.— 7 (49) .,'»*rtaiit curve is tlie only direct northeasterly channel from tlie Pacific to the mafnland, included in the region between Cross Sound and Dixon Entrance. This regfion it divides into su1>equal portions. _ . ^ The groups of islands indudetl in the southern portion, enumerated iu the onler in which they will be takea up, are as follows: Islands at the eastern end of Dixon Entrance. BaTillagtgedo and associated islands. Ktolin, Zarembo and associated islands. Prince of Wales and associated inlands. Those groups to the northward of Sumner Strait are — Mitkoff and associated islands. Kupresnoff and associated islands. Zulu and associated islands. Baranoff and associated islands. Admiralty and associated islands. Ohlcbagoff and associated islands. The islands to the northward of Sumner Strait have a general trend of NW. and 8S., while those to the southward of the strait trend more nearly NW. by W. and BE. by E. The topographical features of the archipelago are similar to those oi the mainland to the eastward, but less elevated; and its hydrographic characteristics are such as woulii be developed by a submer- gence of the lateral ridges of a sharply broken and much elevated system of coast ranges, such as exists from Puget Sound to the Aliaska Peninsula, without important topographical modificetions of any kind. Most of the islands are high, the peaks and ridges showing a remarkable uniformity in general altitude. A few peaks rise conspicuously above the rest, but these are mork^ exceptions. The country is exceedingly rough and broken, — the sharper inclinations, on the whole, facing toward the mainland. The higher summits are sharp, notched, irregular, and showing little if any modi- fication by erosion. The lower summits are more frequently somewhat rounded, but, together with Uie flanks of the former, are so masked in a dense growth of timber as to conceal most of their charac- teristic features. Deep and narrow gorges; precipitous clifls; steep mountain sides, scored by ava- lanches and land-slips; small level plateaus of accumulated washings from the highlands; occasional districts of moderately low but rolling country, — these are prominent features in the topography. The snow-line in mid-summer reaches an altitude varying, according to local conditions, from two tliousand to five thousand feet. Glaciers are formed in favorable localities, such as are abundantly afforded by narrow gorges of the const ranges whose walls perennially ward oif the sun. Toward the northern part of the archipelago, on the contint^ntal shore, where lofty ridges above the snow-line supply the necessary feeders, these ice rivers often attain great size and even reach the water side. In most cases, for several thousand feet of elevation, they force their way between densely wooded hill- sides. Others fail at a considerable altitude and manifest themselves in glacial torrents, frequently forming casciKles of great beauty. The proximity of such streams is invariably indicated by die milky stratum which covers the denser sea-water, sometimes for miles from the embouchure. This condition of a stream of fresh water may be taken as unfailing evidence that it somewhere receives the discbarge from a glacier. In the islands of the archipelago, however, the land does not usually reach % suflSoient altitude to retain snow throughout the year, and, except on the higher peaks, the entire absence of snow forms a remarkable feature of the summer landscape. From the great amount of rain-fall at certain seasons fresh water is readily obtainable in nil parts of the archipelago, and nowhere does there seem to be any diffi- culty in procuring wood for fuel, timl)er suitable for spars or for most purposes of construction or repairs. The hydrographical characteristics form a parallel to the topographical features above mentioned. The continuation of the steep inclines and narrow gorges below the sea level has resulted in that unrivaled sjrstem of narrow straits with deep soundings which characterises the nordtwest const of America from Puget Sound to Cape Spencer. To n)any of these contracted passages the term "conul," employed by Vancouver, is eminently applicable. Again, the rugged nature of the ridges and peaks, and the singular absence of plains or extensive plateaus, is paralleled by the numerous rocks and reds surrounded by deep water, and the general absence of extensive shoals except at the mouths of streams or rivers fed by glaciers. * In honor of t)if lMn*.!t«d ■tktMman, to whoM endcaTon !■ chiefly due (he Mquiiition of (hit Twritory by tho United StktM. gn^ ^,-,-*Hfe/>-,..^ r^ ,s/«-, --■,.*Avi 'I'i'-?-. I.i>?U. ■»! Ni'w KililyHtdiie HiM'k.HifhiiiriimU. I.4UTM Nu«lhI(L Tlinimli ''n|i KuU'OiUTf tit (loak Hmv rapi' Kiinx NK.IivK.iK \Mmy\A Entrunectn Cox SU'mt,Lui«;v-I.SK.byK.vK.4MUi*». n 1 (y*n ••hil. I H ^r. '- V' i lii !l ! '■*C.'.i!»B<«BL.., iiuBpgiiiiipyili '•\ *-."j )«M.A<' .-.'t^ ..•. '^t^4if^' sH^PF^' ^mm^^ h as •I !)( V in .1- »»va- '(.«! • Iv iiilf [n f.ili'- • h .viU r ■r in thiM «kil. .1 • V •If ' II 'i- :y i. V n io -i. ... , „f QVKEN CHiUllXyrTK ISLANDS. DIXON ENT|{AN(?E. SI Tiw Alexander and Columbian archipeliKM are M-pttrntttd from each other by the broad thaet of water known m Dixon Kntraniv, a name wlii<-h hiM now obtaiiieeing on the one hand the northern terminations of Queen Charlotte laiands and the Dundas Oroup, and (m the other the Houthern exlr«-mitieH and Mhores of the Alexander Archipelago and a small portion of the mainland, its wetttern extremcM may be said to be ( 'a|ie Knox on the soutn and, on the north, the headland projecting HoutheoMtwanl from Port Bazau. From the northern part of the entrance lead several Imvs, Htraits and Hounds, while from the eastern portion extend Hecate Utrait, ( 'hntham Hound and the Portland Canal. The waters of tiie entrance are for the mont part clear and free from dangers, but some rot'ks of doubtful position have been rc|N)rtee would fall within this line, riu cape in low, with a \hM ro<;ky (>oast and a small islet or dry rock W. two and a half miles from it. ik>tween thin rix'k and the cape a eonlinuoiu rttf or bar. of foul ground is indicated by English authorities, and extends in the same direction about half a mile lieyond the islet. On British Admindty (,'hart No. 21(18 a sketch of the adjacent waters (under the name of Parry Passage) is given, on which the geographical |M)sition of Cape Knox ia stated to be Latitude..-^. 84°I6' N. Loncitude 188° 03' W. Upon advance proof sheets of Dr. George M. Dawson's new chart of the Queen Charlotte IsUnds, published by the Geological Survey of the Dominionof Canada in their Report of Progress tor 1878-79, a different representation of Cape Knox is given, though upon a verv small scale. It is there represented as a bold, somewhat elevated, narrow and sinuous point extending about a mile and three- quarters from a bit of low ground at the WW. extreme of Graham Island, ana in a nearly 8W. by W. I W. direction. From its extremity in a generally 8W. direction four miles extend three dry rooks or pillars. No shoal is represented about or between them, and they are indicated about a mile and a third fmm each other, as is the nearest one from the point of the cape. The extremity of the cape is placeil in about Latitude 84°10'.8 H. Longitude 188° 58'. W. The cape, from the topography thus indicated, must appear from some points of view like an island. The l-ight to the southwnnl of it appears to have rocky shores, and has been named on Dr. Dawson's map Lepas Bay. Beyond the bay to the south ond west is Point Frederick of Vancouver, who supposed it to be Prederiok Island of Ingraham. It is also called by the latter name by Dawson, beinj the western extreme of an island. The west coast of Queen Charlotte Islandw being practically unkjown except at the westbrn ends of Skid^te and Houston Stewart channels, it cannot be said with certainty whether this i land is that of lugrahamor not until its jMisition is determined. He states, however, under date oi" Ju 9, 1791, that, being in latitude 63° 47' N., the extremes of the land bore W., by W i W. and 8B. by E., respectively, and Frederick Island bore E SB. five leagues P»rt Isirakaa. distr I,. Behind this island, named for his son, he di8Cf)vere 4T " .' Ulandnot named, (Hippa Island, of Dawaont) " SS M " RenneU Sonnd, (large iaiaud In entrance) " ss |0 " Point not named, (Point Buck of Vancouver) " 08 10 " Oroat Sound, (weetenlntncei of Skidegate) " g| 05 " Fort Tork, (Port Kuper) " 51 bS " Bntraneo not named, (Tatoo Harbort) " SS 4S " Port MontcouMrr, (unnamed entrance Vancouver) " u M " Port FerUni at entrance " BS SO " Macoo Sonnd at entrance " n %t •• Kojrah'a Strait, (Houaton Stewart Channel) " sf Ot " Oapo St. Jamoo " tl so " It ii lo oe obaerved that the figure* and sketches given in lugraham's Journal of 1791 are much reformed, 09rre)l«d and improved in his general chart of 179S. He compared notes with Vancouver, whom he met at Friendlj Cove, Nootka Soand, a Iket which explains the attempt to retain his unpublished name for Point Frederick. On the easterr. »u^. . of the Quseo Char- lotte Islands the following name* of Ingraham may be noted : Point Rom or Sandf Point. SkltUto, (Skidegate Inbt.) Onmmailiawaa'i Harbor. (Cumshewa Inlet.) Oonunaihawaa'i Bay, (between Point Vertical and Atli Island of Dawson. ) Klolw'i Point, (point east of Atli Inlet, latitude n° 44'.) Kaukttnl'a Sound orSmok* B«,r, (Juan Peres Inlet.) XantkMal'i Point, (Beudder Point.) Port Uoah, (SkiDouttl* Inlet) Port Sturgla, (Carpenter Ba^.) *The Brtakoro' PoUit of La I rouas, ak.d Oabo do St. Margarlt^uf Perei in 1774. t Afterward, bjr Caamano and Vancouver, called Laacara bland, a name retained on many charts. t This bay waa discovered and named by Dixon in 1787, and the passage conneoliog it with Diron Entrance to the eMtward was discovsred and named Ooz'i Ohannol by Douglas two years afterwards. It was called by Ingraham Ounnorab's Strait, for an Indian chief with whim he traded in 1791, and who lived on -.u* south shore. If any yean later the whole waa named Pairr PassafO by some English navigator*. "^ CLOAK BAY AJJD COX STRAIT. 59 Cloak Bay is about three miles long B. and W. and two and a half miles wide. It is protected from all except westerly winds. Cape Knox forms the soutiiern hoadland of the entrance, from which Laoy Irtet, the northern headland according to Dawson, Insars iibout NW. by N. J N. three milee. There are from thirty to seventeen fathoms in the middle of the bay over a bottom of sand, gravel and shells. In the NB. angle of the bay is a small island, tehind which a cove with a gravel beach exists, convenient for a boat harbor. Some rocks are indicated near the northern shore df t';.e bay. At the SB. angle is the entrance to Cox Strait,* three-quarters of a mile wide, but c()utractetl to less than three cables by a reef or bank which makes off' to the NNW. from a point on the southern side of the entrance. In the narrowest part, however, the soundings range from thirty-two to forty fathoms over a bot.oni of hard sand and shells. The northern shore of the passage is bold-to. The strait is less than two miles in length B. and W., and varies from one mile to half a mile in breadth. It is separated into two arms by Liioy Island, somewhat less than two-thirds of a mile long and one-third of a mile broad. The northern arm is not much over a cjible wide ; the southern or main channel is mort than half a mile wide. The soundings in the main passage arc thirty fathoms, with a rocky bottom. The shores, except in the narrow western entmnce, seem to be clear of dangers. The northern arm, while extremely narrow, is still further obstructed hy foul ground making off to the north- ward and eastward from the eastern shore of Lucy Island less than half a mile, and a similar bank from the opposite shore of North Island. There is, however, a narrow channel, having four to six fathoms, over hard bottom, at the eastern end, and this increases to fifteen fathoms in the western part of the arm. A small islet lies about a mile to the eastward from the eastern entrance of this arm, and a rock awash is reported NB. two miles and a quarter from tiie same locality, and about a mile and a quarter from the southern shore of North Islar.d. About S SB. from tli' SB. end of Lucy Island a cove, possibly Puerto Florida Blanca of Spanish authorSjt is indicated on cue Graham Island shore under tiie name of Bruin Bay, with anchorage in ten or twelve fathoms a third of a mile from the shore. To the W. and W. of the NW. end of Lucy Island, half a mile, is a cove, J which is probably the Beal Harbor of Douglas, where he reports having anchored in nineteen fathoms half a cable from the shore, and completely land-lm^kcd. A stream falls into this cove. Douglas found no bottom with eighty fathoms, of line in mid-chanr.e! at the eastern entrance of the main passage, but near the shore of Lucy Island he found twenty and thirty fathoms. T101S8. The tide runs very strongly through the strait. According to Douglas and Marchand it is H. W. P. and C. about 12'" aO" a. m., — spring tides rising sixteen feet, neaps ten feet. The currents follow the direction of the shores, — the flood coming from the westward and the streams running about six hours. Douglas reports the night tides as •ising two feet higher than those of the day. *^ The best locality for anchoring is the middle of Cloak Bay, in seventeen fathoms. Should a westerly Kile arise, a lee may be found in Cox Strait; but the bay is fully protcttol from all other winds. The chief objection to the anchorage seems to be the absence of any very good holding-ground aud the excessive depth of water. Tebienkoff gives the longitude of the entranw; to Cloak Bay as 133° 9' W. A comparison of other authorities would place the entrance in Latitude 64° 16' N. Longitude -133° 02' W. or, according to Dawson, in Latitude- 64° 12' N. Longitude 132° 68' W. There is considerable population in this vicinity, and several authors speak of remarkable wooden carvings of great size on the North Island shore, or attached to the winter dwellings of the natives. Birds, whales, salmon and other fish and shell-fish an. reportcsi!m^^mmmmmm>.mmmmmm 1 iiii' i i: II m V ■ i i i H' n 54 VIRAGO SOUND. From the eastern entrance to Cox Strait the trend of the shore is about E. two miles and a half to a small point, west from which is a rocky cohinui ninety-five feet high, callal The Pillar; in its vicinity are other visible nxiks near the shore, antl the space between the visible rocks at the eastern extreme of Bruiu Bay and The Pillar is called Pillar Bay, though the indentation of the shore is slight. On the east side of the eastern heailland of Pillar Bay is a good boat harbor. EJast from The Pillar, three and a half miles, is the mouth of Jalun Biver, with some visible nxiks close to the shore on each side of it. Its mouth at high water forms an excellent boat harbor. Thence the trend is alwnt NB. by E. five and a half miles to Klaskwun Point, which is backed by a rounded hill two hundred feet high, visible for a long distance, and off which, in a N NE. direction, Shag Rook, dry and elevated, lies at a distance of half a mile. East from Klaskwun Point is a small bight with r(K!ks near its shores. On this is situated the Yatsa Indian village. A small stream comes in here. The shore hence trends nearly due E., and is fringed with rocks close in, mostly visible. These are particularly nume'ous and large, forming islets along the (!oast at a distance from Virago Sound. the village of some two and a half miles, where Point Naden is formed by the shore changing its trend to the SE. At a distance (according to Dawson) of two and a half miles from Point Naden is Point .lorey, the western point of entrance of Virago Sound. This was examined by Inskip in 1853, whose sketch is given on British Admiralty Chart No. 2168.* The general direction of the sound is nearly N. and S. The outer pnrtionf is about three and a third miles long, funnel-shaped, with its greatest width at the entrance — about three miles. The shores are low and densely wooded. From the head a narrow passage leads into an interior basin called Trincomalee Harbor ;+ which receives several streams and has a depth of ten fathoms, shoaling to sandy shores. " The soundings recorded show that the sound shoals from ten fathoms at the entrance to three or four Trincomalee fathoms a mile northward from the head. The eastern headland is Cape Edensaw, Harbor. from which, according to Insl''*), S. by W. 1 W.§ three miles is a shoal patch with two and a half fathoms on it .id eight fathoms immediately NW. from it. To the southwanl there is deeper water, and the passage contracts to two-thirds and then to one-third of a mile, the western half of which is occupied hy foul ground. At the most contracted part, forme«l by Point Mary on the west and Point George on the east, are two Indian villages. It should be entered with great caution, as the charts are very imperfect. The shores of the sound are bordered by shoulu except between points Inskip and George, and a channel carrying not less than seven fathoms close along the western shore leads S. by E. from Point Mary. It is stated on Inskip's sketch that the geographical position of Cajw Edensaw is Latitude 54° 04' N. - Longitude 132° 14' W., but according to Dawson it is - ijatitude 54° 04'.5 N. Longitude 132°23'.0W. The anchorage is about two miles in :t southwesterly direction from Cape Edensaw, in six fathoms, oi^' Point Jorey, which beare about west li mile from the anchorage, with several islets about it. From Cape Edensaw the general trend of the land is NE. by E. four miles, when it rounds to the eastward and southeastward, everywhere low, nx^ky or covered with boulders, and without sandy bays. The water is shoal well off-shore aner part of Ma set Inlet the tide continues to run up opjuisite Masset for about two hours and a half after it is falling by the shore, while the ebb runs out for about three hours after the tide lias begun to rise on the beach. The chief Indian village is called Ut-ti-was, and here is situated a Hudson Bay post and mission. The rise and fall of tide is aboui fourteen feet. This arm presents in its development, as indicated by Dawson, one of the most extraordinary of the many fiords of this region. From the entrance a channel, known as Maaset Inlet, averaging about a mile and a quarter in width and ten or twelve fathoms in ucpth, extends to the southeastward and southward twenty miles, when it expands into a broad "htet of water ab' .islx miles NW. and SE. by fourteen miles SW. by W. and NE, by E., with numerous arms and fed by numerous streams, several of which are supposea to drain large lakes. Hills rising m fifteen hundred feet are found southward from the basin, wliile eastward from the inlet, as a whole, tiie country between it and Hecate Strait is described by Dawson as low, level and densely wootled. A very crude sketch of Maaset Harbor is given on British Admiralty Chart No, 2168, where the shores are represented as low and thickly wooded, everywiiere borderetl by shoals extending off from a mile to a quarter of a mile on the west, and to nearly two miles northward from the shore eastward from the opening. The whole northern coast of Graham Island is very slightly known, and the indications of the charts must be taken as merely approximate. From the entrance of Masset Inlet the coast forms a pretty even curve (without marked indentations) of which the chord trends about SW. j S. and NB. J N. The shores are sandy with a few small rocky points. NE.f BT. about twenty-two miles from the eastern headland of Masset Harlwr lies Invisible Point.* This point has a general N. by W. direction. About nine miles S. by W. from the northern end of the point is Nagdon Hill, a small bluff elevation, (the Tow Hill of Dawson,^ which is stated to appear from a distance as an island, the land connecting it to the southward witn Graham Island as well as the northern portion of the point being more low and wooded. The configuration of the shores is very differently represented on different charts, of which Dawson's is the most trustworthy. Accord- ing to Russian and English authorities there would appear to be anchorage to the southeast o.' the point, with off-shore winds ; but Dawson's chart would not favor this view. The latitude of the end of the point, as given by different authorities, varies five or six miles. According to British Admiralty Chart No. 1923 A (corrected to December, 1874) its geographical position is Latitude 84° 13' N. Longitude 131° 36' W.; but, according to Dawson, it is Latitude 64° 10'.6 N. Longitude 131° 37'.6 W., and it should bear, in the latter case, B NE. forty-seven and a half miles from North Point of North or Langara Island. i t . n /. From Invisible Point, aciording to the last-mentioned authority, Rose 8pit (the Point Rose of Meares) curves in a generally N. by E. direction nearly two niiies, with an average width of less than a mile; but older charts represent it as trending more to the northward, especially Tebenkoff, according to whom its diret;tion is NW. by N. J N. This is, however, Hose Spit. probably wrong. Douglas states that when in the vioinity of tlic north point of the peninsula he saw a "sandy spit level with the wat«r which ran to the northward as far as the eye could reach from the masthead.'' It would appear that the spit is a low simd-bar without vegetation, and, in its doubtful position, constitutes a serious dangor.f • The Pnuta TmbUlM* of CaamHiio and Vancouver. The name of Point Roie wan applied by M«ar«» to the low madj «pit which tnakei off from tlie point, and not to the point it.elf. In hie Iranecript »( the IpliiK«ni«'» Ior the name appeare u Point Roil. It haa alio been called Rom Bplt Point, MU-Koon (a Haidah wc.rd niHaniiig long «...«, apph«l lo the poinl) and Huaat Bplt by Eiigllah anlhoritiea, and Bandy Point by Ingraham. , . , - t " I examined Roae Spit and found a itrong current »f ^bout two knot.. Thi. .pit or .andbank extend, o.it about four or Ave mile., with boulder, and timber or large tree, buried in the .and. Sounding, were found to be gradual from forty fathom, down to five fathom. cloM along aide; al.o i50od even eounding. all the way to Mawet with .andy bottom. Ship, could anchor under Inviaible Point in a SB. gale in five lo eight Mhom»."~(,BepoH of Captain Brtmdige, p. ir.6). M DUNDAS ISLANDS. From the vicinity of Maaset a bank of sand with not exceeding twenty fathoms extends to the north and east, trending with Rose Spit, and on tlie east side of the island extending toward Cumshews, its eastern margin reaching tlie middle part of Hecate Strait, 1'he aver&ge depth cf Margarot Roek. water is from seven to ten fathoms, but there are much shoaler spots. This bank was named Dogfish Bank l)y Ingraliam in 1791. Near its eastern edge he locates, in latitude 63° 60' and about thirty miles 8E. ^-ttefroin Invisible Point, a rock or shoal on which the ship Mar- j/aret struck in 1792, drawing thirteen feet. Near the spot he notes three fathoms, deepening to five, seven and twelve eastward. In regard to the region to the N NE. of this spit irreconcilable differences appear between the charts constructed by or agreeing with those of Vancouver and the later charts of the British Admiralty. These differences relate to the latitudes of those points of land bordering on that arm of Dixon Entrance which stretches toward the mouth of Portland Canal. The discrepancy is especially marked at the northern e<]ge of the Dundas Islands, Cape Fox, Point Wales and vicinity ; on the average it amounts to about five miles in latitude. In this and other cases of discrepancy, when no definite authority of later date is assigned for the changes, Vancouver's bearings and latitudes will be assumed as the least imsatisfactory. The clianges referred to are introduced on the earlier editions of British Admiralty Chart No, 1923 A,* and were adopted on Chart No. 225, U. S, Hydrographic Office, to which subsequently a fly-leaf with other changes was attached, but in such a manner and on so small a scale as to serve but little to clear up the discrepancies. According to Vancouver the northwestern alge of the Dundas Islands (of which the smaller western one was named Isia de Zayas by Caamano) bears about N. (or N. by E. from Dundas Islands. Dawson's position) twenty-five miles from Rose Spit, Very little is known of their form and extent, and the positions assigned to them are extremely discrepant on different charts. There arc tiirec principal bodies of land or islands, called respectively North, Middle and South Dundas islands, though there are doubtless a large number of islands included in the group, but cloee together and yet unsurveyed, besides Zayas Island. According to local navigators of the Hudson Bay Company there is a good wide channel between North and Middle Dundas, with twenty-five fathoms water clear through. In steaming out from Port Simpson this paasago is well open, but on the Admiralty Charts is represented as choked with islets and rocks. They also report anchorage on the SW. side of Zayas Island. Lieutenant Commander Nichols, U. S. N., when commanding the V. S. Coast Survey steamer Hassler in 1881, states : "As we passed Cape Fox, Zayas Island appeared flat and heavily timbered and probably three or four miles in extent. At ten miles distance no outlying rocks or islands could be seen until Zayas Island bore about 8., when a small wooded island opened out on the western side, which, lus we changed its bearing, appeared about a mile offshore." The Russian chart (IX Tebienkoff) of 1849 represents Zayas Island with more detail than any other, even much later charts. According to this it is sub-triangular in shape, about three miles wide on its northern shore, indented on its western side, and tapering to a point at its soutliern end, a dis- tance of about four miles and a half. A dry rock is represented in mid-channel between Zayas and North Dundas, two more rather close in on the north shore of Zayas, and three small islets less than a mile fi'om its NW. extreme. Besides these a small islet (surrounded by a dotted circle and presumably sunken) is place*! by Tebienkoff about three miles west from the NW. cape of North Dunoas and two miles N. from the NW. cape of Zayas, which may be the same as a "small islet about three miles N. and E. from Zayas," noted by Nicholp. Brundige (p. 155) gives the following notes on Dundas and Zayas Islands. "I put into a small harbor at the nortli end of North Dundas Island. It was stated that there was no anchorage here, but I found a small river whi(rh extended into the island five miles or more, where I remained all night, and the next morning put to sea. At the north end of Dundas Island there are seven small islands named Onarled Islands and reported to have foul ground abont them; but this was found incorrect, as soundin;; showed not less than forty-five fathoms cloaetothem all around. To the west of North Dundas Island is a small one named Zjiyas, about three and a half miles long and two miles broad; there is a go(«l channel between Dundas and this island which steamers bound to Queen Charlotte Islantls fre(iuently take. " I found a sunken roek about four miles northwesterly of Zayas Island having only six feet of water over it at low water; it is about twenty feet across and appears to be round; got Dt¥il Rook. ten fathoms water at about fifteen fathoms from it and obtained from ten to seventeen fathoms, and then dropped into deep water with no bottom at one hundred and sixty fathoms. As near as I can judge the reef is not more than one acre. The soundings were obtained on the northwest side, but on the northeast side I ran the nose of the canoe close to the breakers and could find no bottom at one hundred and sixty fathoms. It is evidently straight up and down. The tide here sets southwest and northwest not more than one knot per hour. • The edition corrected to December, 1874, egreei more ntvAj with Yanoonver. wm SWT" t '..A':;-: -No tsvc txtenda to the rd Cumshewa, ir&ge depth cf ?hi8 bank was (es, in latitude he ship Mar- «ning to five, r between the 3h Admiralty, rm of Dixon sially marked the average it n no definite 11 be assumed ons of British >hic Office, to d on 80 small I the smaller f. by S. from lown of their liscrepant on le and South mp, but close nnel between ut from Port 'ith islets and ider Nichols, e passed Cape extent. At it S., when a ipeared about tail than any » miles wide •n end, a dis- n Zayas and ts less than a 1 presumably laas and two iree miles N. Dundas and [t was stated nd five miles d of Dundas ;round about ^lofle to them 9e and a half sland which J six feet of 3 round ; got to sevent^n ed and sixty ere obtained breakers and down. The !■■ r.' i^9**.-»--*---^WM*-^;- 1" ,>., w H 1 i^ PORTLAND CANAL. 67 "With a good bell-buoy anchored close to this rock ships could snil in safety. I obtained several good observations and found it to be in latitude 64" 40' 46" N. and longitude 181° 08' 16" W., with the following bearings: Cape Chacon bore SW. by W. J W.; Gnarled Island B. by N. ^ V.] Zayas Island S SE. J B.,all magnetic. I have no doubt of this being the Devil's Ridge. I was told by several Haida chiefs, who had been crossing here all their lives and their fathers before them, that there is no other rock or reef in this locality, and they directed me to go where I found the above rock." From Zayas Island the general direction is about NB. by E. J E. twenty miles to Point Maske- lyne, named by Vancouver in 1793. This point appears to be but moderately high and wooded, and is formed by an island of small extent. From it SW. by 8. f S. four polnt MukalvR*. miles lie the Pointers, and SW. by S. J 8. seven and a half miles lies Cnnnis Rock, in Chatham Sound. Immediately oft' the point "lie two rocky islets, and to the south of it a small island (probably Parkin Island) close to the shore."* The geographical position of the point, placed by Vancouver in latitude 64° 42J' HT., is, aooording to British Admiralty Chart No. 1923 A, Latitude 64° 88'.7 N. Longitude 180° 27' W. From hence Point Wales, named by Vancouver, lies W. by N. f N. three and a- half miles. Westward from it, less than a mile, lies a small island. The name is differently applied on different English charts. The land of which Point Wales forms a projection is also an island, and has been termed Wales Island. South and west from its southern shore, in which is an indentation which looks as if it might afford anchorage, and extending a couple of miles off-shore, are a number of small islets called by Pender in 1868 the Boston Islands. SW. } S. from Point Wales ten or twelve miles lies Whitty Point, the northeastern extreme of North Dundas Island. In the north shore westward from Whitty Point is an unexplored indentation, said to afford shelter for vessels, off which lie the Qnarled Islands elsewhere mentioned. Another smaller group, westward from the last, near the northwest shore of North Dundas Island, are named the White Islands by Pender on the last edition of British Admiralty Chart 2431. PORTLAND CANAL. Point Wales forms the western headland of Portland Canal or Channel, whose opposite headhmd is formed by Point Maskelyne. It wai named by Vancouver, who says: "The disi! ice from its entrance to its source is about seventy miles, which, in honor of the noble family of Bentinck, I named Portland's Canal." The entrance of this extensive inlet is not Portlasd laltt. more than two and a half miles across, (according to Pender more than three,) from whence it trends N. 7° E. twenty miles, where it is separated by Point Bamsden into two princinal branches, — that to the eastward having been named by Vancouver Observatory Inlet. From tnis point the canal trends N. 61° W. seven miles, then N. 2° E. thirteen miles, W. 48° W. thirteen miles, N. 36° W, ten luiles, and finally N. 1° W. nine miles, terminating, according to Vancouver,t in Latitude — 68° 46' N. Longitude 129° 64' W. The total length on the above courses, taken from the chart of Vancouver, aggregates sevenij- two miles. Pender's chart would extend this to eighty-one miles, — the differences all northward of Point Ramsden. To the southward of Point Ramsden its width averages three miles; to the north-, ward of that point it is but little over a mile, with more than forty fathoms water throughout its entire length. The broader portion on modern charts is often denominated Portland Inlet, the name of Portland Canal being then restricted to that part of it of contracted width which lies to the westward of Observatory Inlet. The mid-channel line of this great arm of the sea forms the southeastern boundary between the British and American possessions, or British Columbia and Alaska Territory. • VanoouTW vol H, pag* SW. On th« originul edition of British Admimlt/ Chart No. 1923 A tho nam* Point Ifukal/M waa «m>DeoualT tranafernid to another point over two roilea farther to the north and eatt, tut is omitted on the new edition aad reatored on No. 8431, (corrected to 1888,) but miaepelled tUiktylM*, while Connie Book ia miaapelled OonU KMk. t According to Pender'a aurvey of 1888, in latitude B60 M' ». and longitude IVfi »' W.,-a diacrepancy too gre«l to W adopted in ignorance of the meana by which the later reaulu were obtained. P. 0. V, — 8 68 NAA8 BAY. iil Directly to the eastward of Point Maskelyne the Wark Channel,* a nearly straight arm, stretchea thirty miles to the southeastward, its head reaching within a mile of Port Essmgton, Wark Channel. »"•! forming, by the portion between this arm and Ciiatliam Sound, the Chim-sy-an Peninsula, previously referred to. Within a distance of fifteen miles from Point Maskelyne, on the eastern shore of the canal, are three islands of considerable size, which have, respectively, received the names of Compton, Truro and Somorville islands. The largest and most northerly of these is the last mentioned. It is separated from the mainland i)y a channel al>out a mile wide, named Steamer Passage, Somervilli '"^o whicli debouclies an arm exti-nding to the south and east for a distance of some Ikland. twelve miles.f Somerville Island is eight or nine miles long and two or three wide. To tiic westward of its southern part Vancouver found anchorage in thirty-five fath- oms, muddy bottom. On the shores of Truro and Somerville islands, adjacent to this anchorage, Vancouver lays down «o»ie rackx. The form, relative si/o and |)osition of these islands are so differ- ently represented on different charts as to render a 8pc<'ific description inadvisable until additional material is received. Steamer Passage is reported to have from twenty -eight to forty or more fathoms water throughout its extent. To the northward, from the northern end of Somerville If land, a branch, (»lled Naaoka Oulf,| extends to the northward for five miles nearly parallel with the trend of the main inlet, from which it is separated by the Mylor Peninsula, one or two miles wide. On the other side of Portland Inlet the apparent shore is also forme«l by islands. Northward from Wales Island lies a long island separated from the main shore by a branch trending in a nearlpr north direction, and continuous with the ui)per main branch of the inlet, or Portland Canal. This island, whose actual dimensions are not determined, extends about fourteen miles to the Obstrvatory northward from a point within a few miles of Wales Island, and reaches to the west Inlet. of, and somewhat more northerly than, Point Bamsden. The latter divides that por- tion of the inlet called Portland Vana\ from the branch named by Vancouver Observatory Inlet. This point seems to l)e tolerably bluff" and higli, wooded, and forming the ter- mination of one of those small ranges characteristic of the toj)ography of this region. To the S SX. from the jwint a short distance are some dangerous rocks, visible only at low water, and immediately outside of them one hundred and twenty-six fathoms are reported. To the eastward from Point Uamsden, across the entrance of Observatory Inlet, Naas Bay. ^bout three miles, lies the entrance to Nuas Bay, a small inlet with one branch to the southward and receiving from the northeast the Naas Biver.§ The bay extends inland nearly east from the uiuiance with a width of about a mile and a half for three mdes, when it forms two arras, — one extending S 8W. three miles under the name of Ice- berg Bay, the other, at firet trending N NE. and afterward to the northward and eastward, is entirely occupied by the bed of the Naas River and numerous tidal flats. Its length to the head of boat navigation is alwut fifteen miles. The northern headland of the entrance of Naas Bay is known as North Point, low but bold-to, from which the land rises gradually to mountains to the NE. which attain a height of thirty-three hundred feet. From the point the shore trends in an easterly direction a mile and three-quarters to * Called Work Obuinel or Inlet hj error on some clmrts. Brundige remarlcH (p. 157) aa followa in regard to Wark Channel : " I again returne^''j^lw(^ I- PM** Ft. Irtxulhirfl't. NKM'KiK Anchor»f[c*« Nnaii Hhv fn-imi Itritt*h Atim.i'httrt A'w. 2/.fl/V mwm 68 Warl tlire and Son* III) onu Vai end mat itfl < Oul whi fror nor Ohti -.11 .ii-ai'iv Ob. mil froi outi rv.'il.aa 81!. Naa for bei occ na\ froy hui "I proi w>t aim 4,()( side onlj any ■^: ■ H J'»Ittl v-v>ij«vr--*»tK» ,•!.••. ■ ,. (i..*uioH (ooi fon tak Tot •ou 343 Ob. cU liiti 8UC •TheUUki tootaiii more fi »pp«aT h>T« be M NAAH BAY. 59 the opening of a narrow valloy ootitniniiig a small Htream, on the low land near the mouth of which la 8itiiate 18*° 44' W., with .ui uucertaint; of S' or 4'. FORT TONOASS. 61 [thirty- From ble and of the K fresh all directions; seals and sea otters were also seen in grent numbers, even where the water was nearly fresh, and which was the case upwards of twenty milts from its termination." This termination, accordin.:j to Vancouver, is in "low, marshy land," tlie latitude beinL' 65° 45' N. and the loncitude 129° n' W.* ^ 1 he only obstructions in this extensive sheet of water are some rocks near shoi-e about Tree Point- an isle , with rocks close to it, about three miles to the northwestward from Tree Point; an islet near the eastern shore, about nineteen miles from the entrance, and another about seventeen miles farther up the canal, both very small. The chflcnel behind Pearse Island, tus examined by Vancouver, appears to contract gradually to the southward, reaching nearly to the N. extreme of Wales Island, and communicating there with a labyrinth of narrow channels obstructed by great numbers of rocks and islets, and extending north of Wales Island between Pearse Island and Cape Fox. It would l)e at present inadvisable to attempt any description of this knot of intricate passages, which offer, so far as is known, no inducements nor any facilities for navigation. About six miles to the westward of Point Wales lies a group of small islands intersecttd by two small straits forming four passages — one leading eastward from the intersection into the labyrinth of charnels connecting with Portland Inlet; one to the NW.; the most important to the westward toward Dixon Entrance, and the fourth and narrowest passage to the SE. \mong the first anchorages to be met with in the southeastern part of Alaska is that included betwoen a peninsula of the mainland and the above-mentionetl islands, and known as Tlekhonsiti Har- bor, f This locality had a temporary imjiortance owing to the establishment, in 1867, of the U. 8. Port Tongass,! which necessitated the visit there of several large trans- TIekhonaitI ports with supplies for the garrison. A sketch of this locality, from merely approxi- Harbor. mate data, was published in 1869 by the U. S. Coast 8urvey.§ The material at hand in retail to this locality shows several discrepancies, and hence it can l)ebnt approximately described. Fort Tongass was erected on the arm stretching to the northwestward from the intersection of the four ^nosages above mentioned, and on the island forming its southern ihore. The beot channe! for reachirg the fort has Inien indicated as that passing through the NE. and WW. arms. The narrow soutboas.'^rn arm has been tern^'^i Ivinooln Channel ; the broad southwestern arm, the harbor proper. The northeastern arm varies in width from three-eighths to three-quarters of a mile, and is about two and u quarter miles in h ni'tii. There is a rock close to the northern headland of each entrance. No soundings in it are recorded. Lincoln Channel is very narrow and furthei obstructed ^y islands. It is about three miles long and three cables wide. At the southci'stern entrance anchorage is indicated off a small beach, in i;wenty-four fathoms, gravel. Hence the soundings are twenty, Lincoln Channel, tweuty-fonr and eighteen fathoms to an islet a mile a.id a half from the entrance. A p^«age with four fathoms water exists to the souihwurd of this islet, and two small ones near it, beyond which anchorage is indicated in twenty fathoms, mud. Six cables to the westward from tlie islet only a fathom and a quarter is recorded, beyoud which it deepens to six, sixteen and twenty fathoms. The harbor arm is a mile and a half long and about three-quarters of a mile wide, but obstructed by reefy. Both shores of the arm are indented by bights off which are reefs, leaving about half a '.iiie wide of mid-channel ground cleav of obstructions. A reef also extends to the northwestward from the western extreme of the southern shore of the arm. Tongass Harbor. The passage between this ledge and the reefs to the northward and westward is somewhat le*"" than half a mile. An unsigned MS. sketch of this locality in the Coast Survey archives makes the anchorage even more contracted. The depth of water hire varies from five to nine fathoms. The northwestern arm varies in width from a third to two-th'ids of a mile, and is about two miles long. The fort is .situated a'.Aiat midway Iwtween the two entrant's ; and in mid-cliannel, abreast of the fort, according \o Russian authorities, there is anchorage '.i thirty-five fathoms. But acconling to the above-citetl anonymous sketch the mid-channel depth throughout varies from twenty totwenty- Sve fathoms, with ten to sixteen along the southwestern shore within two cables of the beach. The shores are indicated as boid-to. To the northwestward from the western entrance of this arm is a ledge five feet above high-watiM mark ; two-thirds of the way from this ledge to the island on which Fort Tongass is situat^ liefi a k'lp jmtch with rocks in it. The course lies midway between the kelp and • Pender'g oh»rt, before referred to, plices this termiiiBtiou in latitude 06° 66' M. ami loiigimde 130° »' W.; but, until it, ii known ir what manner tlii« reanlt was olitaii.ed, judgment on the wivat disi repancy may rennoiialily lie suspended. ♦ This baa been rendei ed Tlacbopcltjr on tho English and some American charts, and Tayakbonsltl hy a typographical error in one of the Coast Survey publications. These .Trors prohably arose in part from mil taking the Hussiaii H (e<|uiTalant lo £ng|i|b N) for the Riiaeian II, (Kngliah P.) tOiB<'c lock is indicated by Tebienkoff and on the English Admiralty Charts. It is named Finnacle Rock on the U. 8. Hydro- graphic Chart No. 225. According to Lieut. Com. H. E. Nichols, the existence of this rock is posi- tively denied by locp.l navigators. Between ' 'ape Fox and tlu island on which Fort Tongass is situated is an entrance to an inlet which is known as Nakat Inlet, off the mouth of which is a group of small islands. This inlet waB entered by Vancouver, who describes it in the following \vords:j: " We pa.ssed a large deserted village on the north side of a small cove, which may also be con- sidered as the southeast point of entr.-i.iice intoa narrow arm, (Nakat Inlet,) taking nearly a north direc- tion; half a league to the northward of this point the eastern shore foruKxl three small bays or coves with four or five islets before them. On the point which divides the two southernmost of these coves I observed the latitude to be 54° 49' and the longitude 229° 29', from wheut« the inlet took a direction about N. 8° W.; the shores became nearly straight and compact, and were in general about half a mile asunder. The surrounding land being of moderate height and of that uneven surface generally cxhil)ited by the insular countries lying on the sea-coa.st, afforded reasonable grounds iol>elieve the western shore to be an island; in which case we shouhl have been enabled to trace the C'/iuinental boundaries a considerable distance to the north. About six in the evening our hopes van' 'i li '.y our arriving at the bead of the arm, where it terminated in a small fresh-water brook, floT/ ■><; t" 'm low Before it were .several rtof II bluw," HUii ftatos llml tli« I'luiliiicH fks lying off Cape "s'orthuniberland * * * * is a round lump of barren rock, very small, always above water, and which has some breakers lying at a little distance off its southeast side, * * * * j.i,g goutheasteriun(>8t of these rocks lies from the .south rook N. 43° E. (true) four miles and a half, and is a low, flat, double r.>. iv, always above water, but has much broken ground in its neighborhood. " In the afternoon we passed the southwcsternmost of the above rooks. These latter are two small rocks above water, with much broken ground to tho north and northeast of them, and in a direct line io»i»i-U8 the southeasternmost rocks ; they bear by conipa.«s from the south rock N. 44° W. five miles and a half distant. Between these and the eastern shore lie many dangerous rocks and breakere; but as we passed the south rock I did not observe any danger to the nortii of it, between it and the other rocks, where the channel to all appearance seemed to be as free from iiniiediiiieiits as tiiat which we were pursuing towards the weUern shore." This south i-ock has l)een named by the U. S. Coast Survey Barren Rock. It lies about fifteen miles west from Cajie Fox. Tebienkoff (Chart ^»o. IX.) ])laees it five miles to t.'ie southward from Cape Northumberland, with a jlear passage on either side. Vancouver ]iut.s it in latitude 54° 45' N., seven miles t»> il:e southward from the enpe and a mile and a half to the southward of Tebienkoff's position. A deserttc! villup;'» jn a detached rock nesir the «ii)e is mentioned by N^mcouvcr, and the appearance of a village was notek, is recorded in the journal of the ship Eliza, Capt. Rowan, in 1799. It is phuxxl thirty-two minutes of longitude east of Cajw C'hacon and two mil(« in latitude farther south than the cajK", and is descrilnHl as a dangerous sunken ro(!k. The observations of Brundige (see p. M) indicate that the true position of Devil Rock is NW. by N. J K. from Zayas Tsland about four miles. The commanfi>*r of ihe H. B. company's steamer Otter places it in range with the middle of the northern shore jt Zayas Islaud and Mount St. Lazaro, NW. and SE., three and a half to lour miles from the '"■■'•■.nd. He also stata- that it is markeil by n litroker and is awash iit low water, l-'rom it the northwestern end of Zayas Is'and liears S. and the northeastern end SE. * Vancouver, vol. ii, p.ItTO. ■IP 64 CAPE CHACON. ! Captain McCullough also indicates anotlier sunken rock, which seems to be unknown hitherto and is marlced by a breaker. From it the northwest end of Zayas Island bears KB. J nicCullough E., the southern end east, while tlie western shore of Zayas is distant about three miles Rook. in a 8E. \ E. direction. This rwk docs not appear on any chart. The other rock of doubtful jwsition, which may be called Bntndige Rock, was also approximately determined by Brundige. The following abstract of his remarks gives all the informa- tion accessible. The Iwarings of (Jape Cliacon being misprinted in his report are here (and also in the account of Devil Rock) corrected. " The Indians also infornied me that I would find one large reef between Capes Chacon and Northumberland. On showing them the chart on which this rock was marked, they replied, ' No rock there, but farther in.' So, having (amjied on Zjiya^ Island, I put out to look for these rocks in the positii f. marked on the chart, but was unable to find them. It being calm we lay-to all i.ight in the canoe, and in the morning, 29th August, contin; led on towards Cape Chacon but saw Brandt^ j aothing. We then steered for the place indicated bv the Indians, it being cloudy but vith the air clear. I soon saw something that looked like breakers. The wind was now blowing stn irom SW., and as I neared it saw the sea breaking heavily at a distance of about two miles. It being low water, I approached as near as possible and took the following bearings : Cape Chacon, SW. by 8.; Barren Rock, oif Cape Northumberland, E. by N. J N.; Wedge Island, on west side of Clarence Strait, NW. J W. The above bearings place this reef eight miles true north of where it is placed on British Admi- ralty Chart No. 2431, marked "{wsition doubtful." The breakers appeared to cover a space of fully one mile in extent." * Nearly SW. by W. from Barren Rock, according to Ru.ssian authorities about twenty-four miles, is situated Cape Chaconf or de Chacon, named by Caamano, and forming the southeastern point of Prince of Wales Island. It is completely wooded and backed by high wooded moun- Cape Chacon. tains. The outlines of the land are very differently given by different authorities, but most of them agree in })lacing it in about latitude 64° 42' N. and nearly or quite on the same parallel with Point Nufiez and Cape Muzon. According to Lieut. Com. H. E. Nichols, Cape Chacon from Clarence Strait appears to consist of three wooded cone-shaped hills, the outer one being a ])erfect cone. From these the land rises by a flat step about twice the height of the cones into a mountain, made conspicuous by standing out alone on the southern part of Prir'* of Wales Archii.elago. Coming down from the northward the cape changes very much in appea. . iice ; the inner cone becomes flat and elongated and is finally merged into the land back of it, while the bluff mountain behind it comes out between the cone and the cape as a nipple- shajied peak. Viewing the cape from tiie eastward it shows two well-defined cones, with high land directly back of them, and to tlie right a nipple ])eak, and then a bluff mountain. Northwara from these the land is lower, afterward rising again to high mountains. From the S SE. the two cones are merged into the high laud behind them, and the cape is best recognized by the nipple peak and bluff mountain above mentioned. T^rom the westward Cape Chacon has nuich the same appearance as from the eastward, the three cones coming out in their order from seaward, the third one soon becoming flat and elongated. But the bluff mountain and nipple peak change places, the mountain rising more directly from the cajie, and the latter, now apjiearing iiigher, situate*! to the left and not so well defined as when seen from the eastward. Westward from Cape Chacon the land is high and broken.| Mount St. Lazaro bears NE. J N. from the cape. S. by E. to SW. by S., two and a half miles or therealxjuts from Cape Chacon, lies a lan/e patch qffmil ground several miles in extent. The west- ern part of this reef is above water, and is in range with the cape on a bearing NE. by N. and SW. by S. On the rest of the reef the sea breaks heavily. The mariner should not approach this cape within five miles unless the weather is clear. Westward from Cape C;hac(»n is Nichols Bay,§ still unex- plored, its entrance five or six miles in width, in wiiicli are three small high islands. The opposite , VTI tAUowii ^ ing», to have ndige, I. c, p. 157. Ilowiiig for a tolerably constant error of Bix to ten miles in his latitudeB, wliicli appear, when compared wi.h bis bear- ve almost invariably Iwen calculated too fur nortb, there nre Bonie reasons for thinking that this cape may iiave Deen the Oapa Murray of Douglas. His Cape Farmer might have been one of the northern pointe of Dundas Island ; Zayu Island and his Patrlei Island be identical, and Cape Muz.m and Douglas' Cap« Irvine l>e the same. The differences of longitude tend to confirm this view, which would place Douglas' Haines Cove somewhere in Clarence Strait, regard Port Moaret as situated in Cordova Bay, and consider liis BnocUnKb Bonnd as including all the waters between Capes Chacon, Northumberland and Fox, and the northern edge of the Dundas Islanils. At all events, Ciipes Kox and Murray cannot be identical, as they are, by Doug- las' reckoning, over a degree apart in longitude, and his Mount Saint Lazaro was considerably to the eastward of Cape Murray. From the present charts only approximate eonolnsions can be arrived at, but a single glance at the topography on the spot itself is sufficient to determine the mountain and establish a probability for the location suggested for the other iiames. However, Point Nunei is constantly ivferred to in the journal of the voyage of the ship Eliza, Captain Rowau, In 1799, U Onv Umar, while Cape Chacon is called by its native name Intankoon and also Bald Cape. t NichoU; report to Superintendent L'. 8. Coast and Geodetic Survey, December, 1888. i Named by the U. S. Coast Survey. nn*? itherto and ears NE. i three miles ek, was also le informa- also in the Chacon and I, ' No rock ocks in the light in the on but saw cloudy but nd was now ■ about two ings: Cape in west side tish Admi- ace of fully ■four miles, rn point of )ded moun- liorities, but or quite on o consist of ses by a flat ilone on the ape changes a to the land as a nipple- h high land hward from vo cones are k and bluff ince as from >n becoming rising more well defined ;en4 i half miles The west- Vf. and SW. ch this cape § still unex- Dhe opposite wi,h bis btfsr- may iiave Deen ; Zsyu Island ' longitada tend »■ aa lituated in rland and Fox, r are, by Doug- ' Cape Murray. D th* spot itielf les. Howerer, 0»p* UvatKT, '^^^S-.K"^^-'- -'^ .ill.. .1 ;i • /. i.ii InvuiklaPt. Invunhle Pt.N . 'fi;uvm aji<( ISfej '. ■ mr"T tl v. i / ;.( V/ .,.,v ,rf ^ ."-^l:; '» ^ -'# f,-»SU' ..H v^Y^'.'^r^'-v^r^. ■ff 1. ■.1 ifn •>*ii.>.H^;tr...>. if:,r- .:. ^ ^l•*!l\\4!.■\'.^\V".l CORDOVA BAY. 66 headland of this bay, bearing about 8W. by W. j W. about seven miles from Cape Chacon and repre- sented by different authorities as on nearly the same parallel of latitude, is Point Nuuob, the PunU de Nufiez of Vancouver's chart, a name adopted from Caamano.* To the westward from the pint, within a range of several miles, but differently located by differ- ent authorities, is an islet v/ith foul tp-onnd around and between it and the shore. The land uiK»n which Point NuHez is situated is Bean Island.f wiiich is represented by Tebienkoff as a part of Prince of Wales Island. It is a high island with a bluff seaward face, higher than the small islands in Nichols Bay. Point Nufiez forms the southeastern extreme of Cordova Bay, Puerto Cordova y Cordova of Caamano, a very extensive unexplored sheet of water containing numerous islands, some of large size, communicating with Port Bucareli by an arm called TIevak Strait and extending, ac<;ording to lebienkoff, in a narrow inlet called Tliakd-ek Bay towards the headwaters Cordova Bay. of Moira and Cholmondeley sounds, from which it is separated by a short isthmus called the Kaigan Portage. Nothing more definite is known of the northern and northeastern portions of Cordova Bay. Westward from Point Nuflez, which forms the southern extremity of Bean Island, there are two large bights; westward still farther is a remarkable reddish-colored conical hill with a rounded top, a prominent landmark. Farther west the shores of Cordova Bay are lower and broken, not even approximately surveyed. W. by S. I S. about eleven miles from Point Nufiez a roe^i/ patch is laid down in the mouth of the bay by Russian authorities, except Tebienkoff, who places it W. by S. nearly fourteen miles from Point Nufiez. SW. by W. if W., twenty miles from Point Nufiez, lies Cape Mazon, or Kai-gah-nee of some authors, the Cabo de Muzon of Caamano and Vancouver.]: This is the most western of the soutliern capes of Alaska," bordering on Dixon Entrance. This is a barren bluff point with deep water clow; to it.§ It is high and rocky, with a reef almost four cables long extending in a SE. direction ; another smaU reef lies just to the northward of this. Also a rocky island close inshore, which does not show from the eastward but comes out very clearly in approaching from the northward or southward. || According to Brundigc it is a long, sharp bluff, easily recognizable from sea, and with four small islands northeastward from the northeast prolongation of its shore. It appears to )je formed by a high a'ld somewhat precipitous bluff with a strip of lower land in front of it. Such a cjipe is figuretl by La Perouse as seen in cape Muzon. profile to the eastward of Forrester Island. As seen by the U. S. Coast Survey party in 1867, bearing W. by N. J N. one mile and a quai-ter, (though the summit was hidden by fog,) the immediate shores were comparatively low and rocky, covered with a heavy growth of spruce, and the coast to the northwest appeared much broken and of a formation similar to that at the cape. Between the vessel and the cape strong current-markings were visible on the surface of the water, and I^a Perouse speaks of strong tidal currents experienced in crossing Dixon Entrance in this vicinity. Brundige experienced a one knot current in this vicinity and Nichols found weak tidal currents. Cape Muzon is nearly in latitude 54° 42' N., about the same parallel as points Nufiez and Wales and Cape Chacon. The longitude is given by Tebienkoff, from Khrushchoff's observations, as 132° 38' W., but all other modern authorities place it from 2' to 4' farther west.f Nichols' reconnaissance of the TIevak Strait included a determination at Howkan village, from which the position of Cape Muzon would appear to be, approximately. Latitude 64° 41' 4" N. Longitude 132° 44' 7" W. * This is the Oape Hnrray of some of the early fur traders, and perhaps of Douglas. t Named by the Superintendent of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey in 1880 for Dr. T. H. Bean, of the U. 8. Fish Com- mission. i The Cape Kaigani of Tebienltoir, varionely spelled Kygane, Kaigani, Caiganee, &c., by different authors. From an examination of Galiano and Val.les' " Relacion" (p. cxxiv) and documents edited by Navarrete, it seems certain that the original designation of this cape was Cabo d« MuBoi or Muflo* Qoosens, which, by the transposition of two letters on Vancouver's copy fromCaamano hr.8 been perpetuated as MuMn. However, as the erroneous orlhography has been widely a.lopted and had priority of publication, it has seemed undesirable to make a change which would be o'f little if any service to the navigator, while attended with manifest inconvenience. It was called Cape Pitt by Dixon and some of the early traders, and Cape Irvine by Douglas. i Brqndige, I. c. II Nichols, I. c. H Brundige landed there, and from observations on shore places the cape in Latitude .. Loncltnde . 6*0 42' in" If . JSJO 40' SO" W., which is exactly the poeiUon given on British Admiralty Chart 2431. P. c. P.— 9 66 KAIGAHNEE HARBORS. 1 From Capp Mu/.on, acrosw Dixon Entranee, Point North, or Breakers Point of Ls Perouae, on Nortli Island of the Qiipcn C'iiarhjtte group, lioars S. 8° or 10° W. (or, if Dawson's position be Moepted, ahout 8. by E.) f.vcnty-oight miles. 'I'iie cape forms the southern point of Dall Isluid * and the western point of entrance of Kai-gnh-net> Stniit. The exact limits of Dull Island northward remain to be determined by the survey of the varioua openings westward from Kai-gnh-nee and Tlevak straits. As far as known, it comprises moet of the land westward from those strtiits, north of Cape Muzon, extending towards the Pacific and penetrated by Port Razan. From Cn|K! Muzon the deeply indented eastern shore of Dall Island trends in a |,enerally northwest direction, guardetl by a nuiltitude of woodetl islets, reefs, and sunken rocks extending oif-«hore to three- auarters of a mile. The bight between this shore and South Point, being the entrance to Kai-gah-nee trait, is the Port Meares or Meares Iky, of the early explorers and traders, (1791-1799,) but it is not possible to identify it with Port Meares of Douglas in 1786, from his chart and remarks. On the Dall Island shore are several indentations which were used as liarbors by the fur traders of the last century, of whose presence the name American Bay, applied to one of these, Kai-gah-nee is <> reminder. Tlie most marked of these co'/es are the Kai-gah-nee Harbors, sur- Harbort. vcyed by Etolin in 183.'}. These comprise three narrow bays, the middle one of which affords the usual anchorage. The aoutheitstern point of the southern bay has an islet off it a quarter of a mile to the eastward, with some rocks outside the islet. These are bold-to to the northward, twenty-nine fathoms Ixjing reported close to them. The southern shore of the South Harbor trends W. by 8.; or nearly so, in an almost straight line for about two miles. There are several islets and rocks along this shore, and a good-sized mid-channel islet about half way *'rom the point to the head of the bay, where the shore is bordered by a South Harbor. tidal flat. W'ithin a quarter of a mile from the head of the bay a gnudl reef pnta out from the northern shore, which is elsewhere free from obstructions. The northern shore of the South Harborf extends less to the eastward by three-quarters of a mile than the southern shore. The bay is about three-eighths of a mile wide, and the soundings diminish pretty regularly from forty-seven fathoms near the entrance to thirty-seven north of the channel islet, and thirteen at the anchorage, five-eighths of a mile from the northern headland of the entrance. The course in possea to the northward of the islet, and the anchorage is well protected from all winds except those from the eastward. There is said to be an Indian village near the head. The Middle and North harbors p.ie separated by a small point and a nearly continuous, narrow, long island to the eastward. Off the eastern end of the island are some rocks, forming a patch otfoul ground, having the same general trend as the island, W. ^ IT. and E. | 8., from which Middle Harbor, they extend a cable length. The Middle Harbor is less than a quarter of a mile wide and about a mile in length. Its shores are apparently clear of dangers; there are some islets in its northwestern angle. Near the southwestern angle is a ve^ small basin, with about five fathoms water in it, in which a small vessel might lie as in a dock. This is called by the Russians Prisoners Cove or Harbor. The depth of water in Middle Harbor varies from seven to nineteen fathoms. The anchorage is laid down by Etolin in seven and a half fathoms directly off the entrance of the basin. The North Harbor is "of about the same length as Middle Harbor, but even narrower and with deeper water. It presents no special advantages. All are open to the eastward and North Harbor. surrounded by rather high wooded land. A «^ording to Etolin the geographical posi- tion of Prisoners Cove| is Latitude 64° 46' 00" N. Longitude 132° 46' 30" W. t; The range of the tides, according to Tebienkoff, is sixteen feet. The variauon of the compass, according to Etolin, was 26° E. in 1833. In Tehienkoff's sketch, on Chart No. IX, (reproduced without change in the Coast Survey Atlas of Harbor Cliarts of Alaska,) the scale of miles by inadvertence has been made to read miles for quar- ters of miles. A better itpresentation of this locality is Etolin's original sketch, which appears on Russian Hydrographic Clmrt No. 1396. * Named by tli« Superiulenilent of the U. 8. Coast and Guodetic Survey in 1^79. t This harbor wa« known in 17'J9 as Taddiikty, a native name, or Taddy'i 00T», a corruption of the former. At that time there w*re no resident Indians there, but there wa§ a fortification to which they could retire when attacked. The land about thin cove ie extremely high and densely wooded. {There are some who wouid identify this anchuraKe with Port Meares of Doiiglaa; but the weight of evidence ii agaiiut it. Douglas' sketch, besides having the title and compass reversed, with regard to the true points of the compass, ti of such a char- acter as to be quite incomprehensible, and the journal of the Eliza (1799) states that these coves were not known until after Meares' time. KAIOAHNEE STRAIT. 67 North from Cape Muzon about three miles in South I'oiiit* the southern extreme of Long Ialand.t It is a thickly wooded rocicy point, alwut six huiulrottom with thirty fathoms of line out. At this point Kai-gah-nee Strait oi)ens NW. by W. This strait extends between Dall and I^ong islands about seven miles, gradually contracting in width from more than two miles at its south entrance to less than half a mile at the Ilowkan Narrows or Strait, which forms the northern termination of Kai-gah-nee Strait. Several small Kal-pah-n«« points project from the Long Island shore, and half a mile NW. from South Point is Strait, a mvaU ruf, clcae in. About two miles northward from South Point is a small village of the Haida or Kai-mh-nce rac« of Indians, who have given their name to the strait. Two and a' half miles farther northward on the same shore two islands mark the entrant* of BoUds Inlet, which appears like a passage leading in a northerly direction, and has not yet been ezploral. When them islands are abeam the strait takes a more westerly direction and the Haida village of Howkan is visible in a NW. by W. direction. From Juolles Jnlet entrance, S. by W. one euA a half miles, is Pond Bay, a deep bight with a large wooded isl&nd in the entrance and several smaller islands within. W. by N. J N., six miles from South Point on the Dall Island shore, lies the entrance of American Bay, named b y Etolin. It is indented about a mile and a half in a southwesterly direction with a widt h of about half a mile. Nearly in the middle of the strait, NE. from the northern jKiint of entrance of American Bay, is a patch with nine to sixteen fathoms over it, on which anchorage may be had. In the entrance to the bay nine to twenty-one fathoms may be had. SW. by S. ^ 8. from Dix iVint, its northern point of entrance, is a cluster of four wooded islets united by banks at low water and called the Bay Isleta. Behind these is Anchorage Cove, where good anchorage may be had in ten to twelve fathoms. Near the head of the bey are some rocks, but as a whole the shores of the bay appear unusually free from dangers or impedimenta to navigation. This bay is represented on U. S. Coast and Geodetic Sur- vey Harbor Chart No. 713, from a reconnaissance by the Ilaaaler in 1881. Immediately opposite the entrance to American Bay there is a small sunken reef extending about a cable w«w*-"ard from the Long Island shore with nine fathoms close to it. Seven-eighths c ile Howkan west northwestward from this reef are the Howkan Narrows, where the clear ; lel Narrows, contracts to a cable and a half and the dirait to about four cables. A projectio .om the shore of Long Island at this point is the site of the Howkan village of Haida Indians and of a trading post and missionary station. To the latter has been applied the name of the Jackson Mission. Howkan contains about a dozen large Indian houses, and directly in front of the houses is a lar, e reef, bare at half tide and surrounded in summer by kelp. The reef extends a cable and a half south- westward from the shore at high-water mark. 8W. J W. from this reef, across the cable-and-a-half wide channel, is a large kelp patch, on which the llnaskr party could not find less than fourteen feet of water. There is no safe passage west from this natch, between it and the shore. The kelp is said to disnppear from all these reefs in winter to a gr i t >r less extent. || In Howkan Narrows between the kelp \h,'- : .nd the village reef seventeen fathoms can be had throi^h the channel. Upon the peninsula on which the Howkan village is situated is the observation sjwt of the U. S. Coast Survey party of 1881. It is nearly south from me village, close to the high-water mark. Accord- ing to observations by the reconnaissance party this spot is situated in Latitude 54° 49'.6 N. . ♦ Longitude 132°50'.2W. The variation of the compass in 1881 was 27° 03'.4 easterly and the dip 74° 21'.5. The rise and fall of tides is about twelve feet. •The point WM named 0(hnol or Sonth Point by Tehienkott, ^nA Point Kal-gab-nee by KiipreBnolT on liuBsian Hydro- graphie Chart No. 1493. The application of tliia name Kni-gali-nee to the cape, pivviously named l>y C'uamano and A'ancouver Cape Miwon, bu laid the basis of future confusion, as South Point above mentioned is tlie Cape Kaigan of the British Admiralty Chart No. 3431. tDolcol bUnd of the Russians. t loformation in regard to this vicinity and Tlevak and Howkan straits is derived from I lie reconnaifsances of the Coast and Geodetic Survey steamer Hauler, Lieut. Com. H. E. Nichols, U. 8. N., (onnnanding, in 1881. This information is embodied in U. 8. Coast and Geodetic Survey Chart No. 713. i After the Rev. Sheldon Jackson, DD., who lias been indefatigable in his endeavors lo establish missions in southeastern Alaska. 1 In ilmilar patches io the Aleutian region, waU^hed all winter by the U. H. Coast and Geodetic Survey parties, there wu no time when kolp was not conspicuous upon them, though most abundant and luxuriant in early summer. 68 KAIOAHNKK HTIIAIT. About 8E. by 8. from tlie station, offtheHouth bigbt of the peiiinHiilu, in Village Islnnd, of small extent, about a cable from the wliore. Tlie northern bi).'ht hnH U'X'n named by the U. S. Const Hurvev Million Cove, (aUhou^jh the miwion is not situated exaetly U|>on it,) and afford- anehorage for small craft elose in-shore. A mtnlcni rock with tive feet of water on it exists in the head of the cove and may be avoided by keening the islet on the south shore of the ((We bearing notiiing to westward of SW. by S. i 8. From this (!ove the shore of I.ong Island trends in a northwesterly direction appareutly bold-to. W NW. from Howkan lies Channel Island, nametl by the U. S. Coast Survey, and ap|)earing like two islands, but connected by a si)itor bar hardly above high-water mark. The island is alxmt four cables long and one wide, trending in an eiusterly and westerly direction with deep water on either side. The main eliannel, however, is that on the south and w(«t from the island. From Howkan Narrows the shore of Dall Island extends in a west-northwesterly direction a mile and a half to Entrance Point, the eiwtern point of entrance to Saw Mill Cove from which NW. half a mile lies Weit Mill Rock, of small extent, close to the shore. East half south from this rock half a mile lies J'ond Hock, awash at low water, nearly midway between Clianncl Island and West Mill lloek and a little to the northward of a line joining the two. The entrance to Sawmill Cove is narrow and easily overlooked, though it has four or five fathoms least water in it. Entrance Point, which shelters tlie outer basin of the mve, extends in a W NW. direction and is (juite narrow. The basin southwest from it is a-little more than a Sawmill Cove. cable in extent and has four to six fathoms in the middle. Westward from it is an opening obstructed by some small islets, leaving a passage ""w yards wide with seven- teen feet of water, which leads into an extensive unsurveyed basin with " island in the middle of it and branches in several directions. This is said to frw/e over in wint this vicinity a saw-mill has been erecttnl by the mi8si(maries to supply material for building fiurjn, . The channel extends northward lietweeu Pond and West Mill li(X!ks, where the narrows end, and the passage expands to a wide bay, some six mil(« long in a NW. and SE. direction, forming one of the ramifications of Cordova Hay, with which it connects by eastward-leading jnissages north of Long Island. The Dall Island shore is high, densely wooded, and much broken. It should be approached, with caution as several sunken rcK-ks exist along shore. The eastern boundarj' of this sheet of water, so far as it can be said to have one, is formed by a variety of islands. From West Mill Rock W. by N. A N. a mile and three-(iuartcrs lies Dead Pine Island, of small extent, rocky, with a fir tree and (lead pine stump twenty feet high without bran(!hes, situated close to the shore. A reef makes off towards the channel from this island a distance of two cables. NW. by W. from Dead Pine Island about three miles, Bushy Island, still small, is situated near a rounded point of the Dall Island shore. Westward around this point at a distance of about a mile is the entrance of Rose Inlet, with several islets in it and not yet surveyed. North a mile and two-thirds from Bushy Island is Square Island, so named by the U. 8. Coast Survey from its ap|)earance when viewed from the southward and eastward. Eastward and south- ward from Square Island is a chain of islands and islets extending nearly to the northwest shore of Long Island. This is divided into two groups, the northwestern containing, besides S(iuare Island, fivesmal- and two large islands; the latter se|)aratcd by a very narrow [mssage. The larger western one, named Grand Island by the U. S. Coast Survey, is over a mile in length ; the other, Aston I.}land, is about two-thirds of a mile long. The eastern group contains one large island, named Shoe Island by the U. S. Coast Survey on account of the form of \i> profile, a:ul ieight or nine smaller islets and rocks. Northward from these lies Jackson Island, over a mile wide and four miles long in an east and west direction, which is not yet fully sui-veyed. North of this is a broad arm extending to Cordova Bay. About two and a half miles NW. by W. from Bushy Island and quite prominent is High Point, from which NW. by N. | N. two and two-thirds miles lies Reef Point, the eastern end of '^oung Island. The latter is about two miles and a half long W. by N. and E. by S., and about a mile wide, separated by a narrow ])assage from the western shore of the strait. Between Reef and High points is a wide entrance with a number of small islands and rocks in it >Thich have received the name of Reef Islands. The entraiuie, which might be mistaken for the main strait, has been called False Lead by the U. S. Coast Survey. It is unsurveyed but is of considerable extent, with several arms which lead to the westward. Reef Point should l)e avoided, as danyerow rocks, extend SE. by E. | E. from it a little more than half a mile. The outer rock is sunken at all tides. Opposite Reef Point the main shore is distant more than three miles in a northwesterly TIevak Strait. direction, where it forms a rather broad rounded point wiiich has been named Point Kellogg. Between Reef and Kellogg points TIevak Strait ojjens in a generally WW. by W. direction 'vith a width of three or four miles and a length to the narrows of some thirteen miles. Eastward from Point Kellogg is Dunbar Inlet, narrow and unsurveyed. From the point NW. by W. nearly seven miles the eastern shore of the strait extends, much broken, to a prominent bare spot caused by a landslide, beyond which is an indentation in the shore. Between Point Kellogg and TLKVAK STKAIT. 69 the lamlRlidu, extending; off the shore a mile to a mile and a Imll", lire three j;riiu|»s of iHlandn. The (IrHt, or MoFarland Qroup, eoiisistM of three f;ooed further on. Northward from Foggy Point is an indentation named Foggy Boy by tlic Ij. 8. Coast Survey. It penetrates the shore about three-quarters of a mile and is about three miles long and without anchor- age, no bottom being found by tlie Hassler party, in 1882, with twenty fathoms of line twenty yards * BritlsL Admimlt.v Chart No. 8431, Juue, 1883. . tVancouvi.-, vol. ii, p. J4(). , nil BEYIT^LAOIGEDO CHANNEL. 71 from the shore. For a distance of two miles aboye Foggy Point the liay is clear of olwtnictions, but the remaining third is an archipelago of islets and roi'ks. The largest of these is De Long Island, three miles NW. from P'oggy Point. It extends westward somewhat beyond the otlier islands, and ia well marked by a lone tree standing upright some distance from the edge of the woods and which can be easily seen from the southeast as soon as Boat Harbor Point is rounded. From De Long Island four other islands extend in a soi'theast direction, and b3tween these and the shore are numerous other islands and rocks. From Pe Long Island three-quarters of a mile N NW. is Kirk Island, parallel to and an eighth of a mile from the shore, where is an Indian village with a corspicuous double white house. A reef extends off from its NW. end half a mile in a NW. direction and about a third of a mile from the main shore, partly dry at high water. W. ^ SX. from it a mile and three-quarters is Black Rook, bare, twenty-five feet high and forty feet in diameter. One hundre different from that of his text, as the btisriMH tad dietaiM* do uol agree. Tlie poini iiiilicated in tlie cliart is above r6fi>rred to. J On the Biitisli Admiralty Clmrl 2431. II On Tebienkolf's t^Iiart No ' \, by some error the namv Is traiiiferred to an i»U.t rauoh farth'Sr to the northward. itpipnwi take them g between eraarkable J island to sntrance at by him in i, increases idth by an and rocks rtheast and 1 found by here which ppear to lie uptly from from Point eparatcd by in its south- ) of land, named by ence it con- ward. The t two and a ■en miles by [led Candle le remainder ;r a mile in h have been ly navigable e main body ■ three miles, he westward ! to the light- ^ the height of yards, and it n extent and which extend d-to, extends This rock is canal, and is \ -V ' the Russian ters of a mile he offle*ni moling ,1y «!*«■ eoglB««r» fi and dic'.*oe« do hwkrd. r-^ ri-*TEi:t. itTi L n.iTElIo -.ill \^n ^. f\ -V smxr A^ Y HEllM CAXAF- i AND ( iwyiKNCF*: STHAJ r , (Hi'ilisli Autliitr»Up*».i*nrrci'Uiui» l»vtl»r I'.S.CSJ \HH'2 • OUNOinO* INrATHOMt \" A^ R |E ^ I L L A G I G E I) O I S L A N D /iV"' HAS S l.i K R I S I- A iji i> •(j)»rw|.>li^»trai»Bk. j)w-a«.- * ,(D«11 Hviui ^^-^ 7- ,id..Pt. ir ^ d^ .TVoUop ^ ,.»»"'■ ,|»«' Chr/ttaf -^ ■\ •„'^*.. ^>Hif-y ■ of some six miles, and a general direction of NE. bv N. Off its northern headland are some small ruver, from whence issued a party of Indians who attaint above mentioned and an island about a cable to the westward of it. The northern point of the shoal is rocky; the entrance to the basin, only a cable wide, is olistructed by a foulpaich directly in the middle of its narrowest part, which occupies fully one-half of its width, leaving a very narrow seven-fathom channel to the northward, and one with five fathoms between the patch and the northern point of thi; shoals. The northern shore is bold-to. Inside this basin six and eight fathoms may be had, but between it and tlie head of the bay the space is entirely occupied by shoals. A group of three islets in the southern part of the entrance forms the protection of the outer port or anchorages. The two northern islets are joined by a rocky shoal, forming a barrier about half a mile long and quite narrow. From the southern islet a long narrow nhoal makes out in a north- westerly direction, nearly joining a prong of the other shoal. In the narrow channel between the two shoals, however, fourteen to twenty fathoms may be carried. On this southern islet, which is of small extent, Vancouver's astronomical station was established. Between it and the adjacent southern shore exists a clear passage less than a cable in width, having nine to eleven fathoms in it. Between these islets and the southern shore a sub-triangular space exists, perfectly protected from all winds, and affording good anchorage in thirteen to seventeen fathoms. The area thus inclosed is three-eighths of a mile wide and three-quarters of a mile long NW. and BE. In line with Observatory Islet, the western end of the northeastern islet, and a point on Jhe north- ern shore, in a direction about 8E. by S., a quarter of a mile from the latter, in another little islet, high and bold-to. To the westward of it are two others with rocky shores, low, but having apparently no outlying dangers. ';• DIRECTIONS FOB THE USE OF PORT STEWART. The better course for the inner basin would appear from Vancouver's plan to lie between the high islet and the two others, but a reef obstructs the passage to the northward of the former. The course for the outer anchorage passes to the southward of the tliree northern islets, and the W. point of the W. islet of the southern group being bold-to may be rounded within a short distauce, and good anchorage may be had with this point tearing N., half-way between it and the southern shore, in fif- teen fathoms, sandy bottom. Vancouver recommends, as the best and a perfectly safe passage into the port, the narrow channel between the Observatory Islet and the mainland. As unknown sunken rock" may exist in the other passages, caution should be exercised in the use of ihem. SE. by S. J S. a quarter of a mile from the northern headland, outside of all the islets, a patch of rocks is indicated by Vancouver with deep water about it. Vancouver places his astronomical station in Latitude 86° 88' 15" N. Longitude 131° 36' 00" W., but Tebienkoff gives the longitude as 131° 44' W., and on an old Russian plan taken from Vancouver it is given as 131° 47' W. The variation of the compass was determined by Vancouver as 28° 30' E. (1793.) The communication with the shore is easy, and wood and water may be conveniently obtained in great abundance. The shores are of a moderate height and coverey pilot W. E. George, of which manuscript copies were circulated, contained the results of his observations and the names applied to v.irious points, islands, &o„ by himself and other recent navigators. This information or part of it appears to have been used in the prepara- tion of British Admirafty Chart No. 2431, edition of June, 1882, but in which some errors have crept as to names. The sketch of Capt, George, with some additions from observations by the Hassler party in 1881, was issued by the U. S. Coast Survey in 1832 as Harbor Chart No. 712, with a sketch of Ward Cove on the same sheet. In 1882 the naailer, Lieut. Comd'r H. E, Nichols, ir. S. N., commanding, made a reconnaissance of Revillagigedo Channel from Foggy Point to Point Vallenar, giving information much more thorough than any previously accessible. On the charts and field notes submitted by the officers of this party the deaoription herewith of Revillagigedo Channel and Tongass Narrows wholly depends. Ufl'K 78 DUKE AXD MABY ISLANDS. Duke Hill, nl)ove referred to, marks Duke Point, the nortlienstern extreme of Duke Island, and is stilted to be ii conspicuous landnmrk from tiie NE., E, and S. It is n'H)Ut six hundred feet high, tiiickly \vood(!readtli of two miles, somewhat irregular in outline, and with some rocks about its shores. Mary Island is flattish, rises almost directly from the beach to an altitude of one or two hundred feet with a rather even to|); most of the trees arc dead as if from forest fires, and the soil is of a boggy character. The northern extreme of Mary Island is Point Winslow, nameve the water, with many others submergal. Exwpt in the gaj)s previously mentione lohjr and oi;e-tliird of a mile wide, with water too deep for convenient anchorage. Near the souther' poin* of ciitriince to this inlet is a large cascade, stated to be an exc^ellent place to obtain water in siiiooth weather. The northeastern extreme of Ham Island was named by the Hassler party Middy Point; rueh make ofi" from the shore south from it. 8. I W. from Middy Point anil about SB. by li. i E. from the C4Lsciide is a sunken rock or shoal off the entram* to Cascade Itdet. There appears to be three or four fathoms quite close to it, and in sum- mer it is probably marked by kelp. From this vicinity the shore of Annette Island extends in a generally 8 8B. direction, tolerably compact, wooded, and rising inland to peaks twenty-five huiulnnl to over three thousand feet in height. The easternmost and most remarliable of these is Tongass Mountaiu, about thirty-six hundred feet in height, bearing al)out SW. by 8. from the Twin Islanils. Two miles and a half eastward from the entrance to C^ascade Inlet a stream falls into the sea through a little ba.sin. Northeast from this basin anchorage in eight or ten fathoms, gray mud, may be had three-quarters of a mile off shore; at half a mile off shore the bottom is rocky, and closer in becomes shoal. * Nameil bv Captain George ; erroneously called the SUten ou British Admiral! v Chart 343' , edition of 1S82. t Named by the U. 8. CoaBt Snrvey. in IHilO. for Cnpt. t'harlee Thome, long in command o. the steamer California in these wfttere. J By error PrOf Rooki on British Admiralty Chart 2431, edition of l«8a. 78 HAHSIiGK H ARDOR. S^ I'Vom Walker Isliiiul W. by N. J N. four and a quarter miles lien Angle Point, the southeaatcrn nxtreiiu' of Bold Island, twit ami a half iiiih'n lonj; W. by N. and E. by S., and a mile wi(h; at the wirine in mid-channel or a 'ittle north of mid-chamiel from one end to the other. The Hevillagigedo shore hereabouts is loM- near the water, rising rapidly to mountains two or three thonsiind feet in height ; as a whole it becomes lower westward. At the western end of Pennock Island are two islets whi('h ixmnect at low water ; behind them is a good boat harbor. Westward from the western ena of Fennoctk Island, marked by kelp and with its hiiihciit point avvasb at low writer, is Pennock Rwf, which ectcncis somewhat leso. than half a mile we^l ward from the island iiut out of the chaiuiel. I'VoiM a ])oint W NW. nearly ii milt from the western extreme of Pennock Islai.d, on the northern shore (if Tiinf^ass Narrows, westward alontr thi>t shore the latter beconies/b*//, and es[>ecially about the point nicntiimcd, csxWA Bar Point by Captain (xeorge. In passages made by the .soutnern side of Pennock Island this shoal, which extends off nearly a (piarter of a mile, is not in the track of uavi- gati^rs. Close in U^ the Gravina shore, SW. from Bar Point, and cf)nnectcd with the shore at low water, is Seat Island, so nai,."'l J'roni a conspicuous and peculiar swit-shapcd rock at its outer end. From Seat Island it is well to keep about two-thirds of the way from the north to the south shore, after which for two mileii the iKirv.horn shore is t>,e from dangers and the channel |>er'.'-i:tly clear. .Vt three and thref-(|uart':'i-s miles from Penncck Island Lawis Point makes out from theGi-avina shore, with some small dry rocks about it and a rocki/ fboal extending northeastward from it an eighth of a mile. This has been called the Lewis RockK l)y lociil navigators, ihev cover at iialf tide. Here- iiboiits, the northern shore should be kept on board. Diagonally across thechannel, on theopposite shore from Lewis Point, is a higii-water island, very narrow and parallel with the shore, which is ItK^lly known iLs Peninsula Point. Westward the chc.imt '. .videns at once and continii'jfl to do so until it terminates. The obscrvatio:i sjwit of 1882, situated one-third of the way west from the eastern to the western end of Peninsula Point, was determined to !>e ap}>roximatelv in Latitude 68° 22' 4.3" N. Longitude 131'^ 43' 33" w. The en-slerly variation of the compass was 28" )7' in IHSi!, and the dip 74° 86' 23." ' Alaocallt!il Wayaada (yi- Wyandtt) Roe* bolt. vmivU having toucbeU it. WART> OOVE. 81 iland SW. gradually cade Inlet frne from ! entrance, il wooded, niii Point, anie given ad, iiansed ;hree miles ,v, the tops astern end low water, the middle le southern ock- Island W. half a that island. tly in mid- in several i wav north coaies into re of which ird formed 1 until at a ir e-fathom lUT on the r)iithern one igh slightly »p;'y to pass r. ,wo or tViree ind them is II) and with lialf a mile Commencing at a pt)int in mid-channel two miles eastward from Peninsula Point a course W WW. for (Channel Island clears all dangers. A little less than a mile and a quarter W. by N. I N. from Peninsula Point is Channel Island, a .■« of five islets and several rocks, arranged in a curve convex northward and nearly connected by reefs at low water. The easternmost of these islets has rocks extending SE. half a cable from it, and is known as East Island. Between this and the shore, three-eighths of a mile east from it, is the entrance to Ward Cove. Coming westward the entrance opens from miil-channcl when I'eninsula Point l)ears about NE. J E. The approach to Ward Cove may be known from Channel Island and from the high hills situated on the west shore <>f the cove; these hills arc conspicuous after passing Peimock Island going west. They are shaped like a double saddle, the middle peak being the higher. Ward Cove* is about a mile long north and south and one-third of a mile wide. \ cieek forming a pmall bank at its mouth falls in at the he«d of the cove. In tiie entrance the U. S. Coast Survey steamer //a««fer found bottom at twenty-five fathoms. VVhere the cove widens to the westward, within the entranc*, seventeen fathoms were obtained, and at half tide twelve and a half fathoms, rocky bottom, when the East Island wasclos^on with the west point of entrant* of the cove. Ea.stof this line the bank before referred to lies at a cable distant, and n rock was discovered by Lieut. BoUcs of the JInmler which has about three feet of water over it at low-water springs. The ridge of this rock or ledge, which has been named Bolles Lcdffe, was found to run NE. and SW., but the space included by the tiirec-fathom curve ill rounded and about fifty yards in diameter. All around this there is five or six fathoms water and a <'lear channel eastward from the rock. The depth of water in Ward Cove, except about the ledge, deepens from eight or ten fathoms near the jiead to eighteen in the middle and twenty-five towards the entrance. A sketch chart (soon to be followed by a much Ijetter one) of this Iw'ulity, with a sub-sketch of Revillagigedo Channel, has been issued by tlie U, S, Coast Survey us Hsirbor Chart No, 712,t DIRECTIONS FOR WARD IX)VE, The ninge, East Island oi)cn of the we>'t shore of the entrant; SW. by S., passes over the BoUes Ledge. In entering, keep in mid-channel until the cove Iwgins to widen to the westward, when keep the western shore about a cable and a half distant until Eiist Island is shut in by the west shore of the entrance SW. by S. J S., then liead NW., and anchor in twelve to fifteen fathoms with the middle of the creek at the head of the cove bearing NE. by N. J N. This cove is hard'/ large enough for more than one vessel, but affords a t^mvenient refuge for a vessel delayed in entering or leaving the narrows. The greatest range of tide observed here was twenty-three and a half feet. The average range is about sixteen feet. Westward from Danger Ueef and Island the Revillagigc'o tlmt, for instiince. iMiiKii''ti<' norlli l.y ili<' .-onipwi. Ik rcilly iiiagiii'lii- nnrlli liy ciuit hslf Past. A v*ry much hMvr oh»rt of Wurd Cov." and Rfvillugigedo (.'lianiMl is in pioc-sn of pv..paration for puWicKtion and will tliortiv 1)0 iMHfd. P. 0. P.' -11 il ;! I i 8$ REVIIiLAGIOKl>0 CHANNEL. to six tatlioiiis may bt had lietweeu the reef and the fhore nortli of it. [t is not in the way of navi- ^tors who keep at a cable and a half from the northern shore. A course W. by N. from Danger Island, or E. by S. | S. for Channel Island, clears all dangei-s west from those islands. West a mile and three-quarters from Rock Point is Point Vallenar, from whieli Point Higgins bears N. a mile and a half.* Both these points are rocky, comparatively low and wooded. They I'orm the western points of entrance to Revillagigedo Channel. Point Higgins is not particularly conspic- uous, and rounds gently to the NW. and N. without off-lying dangers, and bold-to. Point Vallenar is extended in a W NW. direction by two principal islets, several rocks, &c., for half a mile, Ix^yond which a mile and a half WNW. from the end of the point is Ouard Island, named by local navigators, and consisting of rocks uniting at low water, two low, rocky, high-water isleta, one west from and considerably larger than the other, and both bearing shrubs and a Current. few trees. The channel is to the northward of Guard Island. The passage between the island and the rocks otf Point Vallenar contains kelp patches and should not be attempted tintil more is known of it. Guard Island itself should not be approached too closely, as there may lie lurking rocks near it. The ebb-tide from Behm Canal makes southward with considerable strength across the entrance of Tongass Narrows, and should be taken account of in laying a course. m'ii r 'i SAILING DIRECTIONS FOB KEVII^LAGIGEDO CHANNEL. Passing southwai-d from Boat Harbor Point at a distance of about one mile the course will be NW. J W. about twenty-three miles, when Twin Islands should be abeam one mile distant to the southward. V , One and a half miles farther NW. J W. the course shoul^/lSe changed to W. | S. eight and three-quarters miles, which will leave the easternmost Hog Rock at least two-thirds of a mile abeam to the southward and bring Angle Point, Bold Island, abeam northward, distant a quarter of a mile. Thence a coiiree W. by N. J N. three miles will bring Spire Island Reef (off what is known as Reef Point on U. S. Coast Survey Harbor Chart No. 712) al)eam, distant nec-ly half a mile SW. by S. In general, to avoid Spire and Cutter rocks keep Walker Island on or n*^ .ly on E. by S. J S., with Angle Point between Mountain and Reef Points, which chars both dangers. When Spire Island Reefs are abeam, as above-menticmed, a W. § S. course four miles and three-quarters should bring the south- eastern angle of Pennock Island to bear NE. by N. three-eignths of a mile distant, the ves.«cl being then in niid-clm!mel of the eastern entrance to the clear ])assage south of Pennock Island. (Note. — In })assing Spire Island Reefs it .should be remembered that the tide changes at this point The ebb-tide coming down George Arm and Carroll Channel divides at Spire Island, passing to the eastward along Bold Island and down Revillagigedo Channel, and to the southward and westward into Nichols Pass. The ebb through Tong-.tss Narrows also runs into Nichols Pass.) Between Pennock Island and the Gravina shore the navigator should keep in mid-channel or slightly to northwardofmid-channc!, and so continue until Chainiel Island apj^ars in inid-chaanel W. by N. f N., when the course will be direct for Channel Island, which on (!omii ,' up with it may be passed north or south from it at a cable distance, leaving Danger Island Reef in i he former case alnjut one cable to the northward. Danger Island astern E. by S. or Channel Island astern E. by S. 1 8., carries clear of all dangers until Guard Island is abeam southward, and should be rounded west from it, bearing in mind the current which at ebb sweeps southward from Behm Canal. DIRECTIONS. TONQASa NARROWS TO CLAIIENCE STRAIT. From Guard Island the course is W. by S. i S. into Clarence Strait until Point Stanhope opens W. from Ship Island, when a course may be laid for Point Stanhope about NW. f W. ETOLIN, ZAREMBO AND ASSOCIATED ISLANDS. The nex*, passage in order of description is that between the Gravina and Prince of Wa) ;8 irroiiC8 forming the southern section of Clarence Strait. - •The., two point. w«rt. name.l l.y Vancouver afVer Senor Hlgflni de VaU.uar. the,, pri..ident of Cliile. Tlu,, u pointeii oui by Dtrwm. >. a .ingulur in.t«„cH of tra.i.fornmtio,, of « „a,ue, origii.allj, ihut of an Iri.h faioily, wl,o.e repre«enlative, OHlfglni of BulauMb, betame naluralized in Chile, , TAMGAS HARBOR. 83 CLARENCE STRAIT. This strait* is second in importance, in the Alexander Archijielago, only to Chathaia Strait. It extends from Dixon Entrance to Sumner Strait in a NW. by W. direction one hundred and seven miles, with a width varying from tliree and a half to twenty miles and averaging about six miles. Its eastern shore is formed by the Gravina Islands, the mainland, Etolin and Zarembo islands; the western shore by part of the coasts of the Prince of Wales Archipelago As a whole the strait is remarkably free from obstructions, but the northern extreme is somewhat emlwirrassed by islands ; the waters are deep, the shores moderately high, usually bold, and more or less densely timbered. Cape Northumberland, the eastern extreme of the southern entrance previously described, is the southern extreme of Duke Island of the Gravina Group, unsurveyed, niotlerately high, rising to iiigh peaks, of which the most remarkable is Mt. St. Lazaro', before mentioned, a landmark from the southwest for many miles, and sei)arated by Felice Passage from Annette Island, the middle one of the three principal islands of the group. Its northern and eastern shores are but recently surveyed, and comparatively little is known of the remainder. Its southwestern extreme is Point Davison, f A rcf/ extends in a southwesterly direction a mile and a half from the point. Point Davison forms the western extreme of a large bay, whose entrance, nearly five miles in width NE. by B. J E. and 8W. by W. J W., is largely taken up with Hotspur Island, of moderate size, and a multitu«^" of islets and rocKs. These. form a group or chain nearly closing the entrance of the bay, and to the southwestern islet or termination of the cluster Vancouver gave the name of Point Percy. There is a passage to the westward of Point Percy, another to the eastward of the group of islets, and a third between the island in the bay and the main shore of Annette Island. These passages lead to the sheltered waters at the liead of the bay known as TasngM Harbor, a name applied by Russian authorities.! On the charts the western entrance alone is suflSciently represented to be described. It was surveyed by Etolin in 1833. Accord- Tamgas Harbor. ing to his plan on Russian Hydrographic Chart No. 1396 the distance from the islet of Point Percy north and west to Point Davison is about two and a quarter miles. Off the latter is Karablin or Ship Islet, of sm&ll extent and about two cables from the shore. From the point the shore trends to the north and east three and a quarter miles, with islets and rocks extending off in some places as much as u mile. Thti Russian track is laid down in mid-channel between these shore islets and those of the Percy Gro.'p, north and eust from the entrance, about three miles to the northwest jwint of Hotspur Island before mentioned. The track passes close to an islet which ajjpears to l)e boid-to at this point. Be- hind the islet anchorage is indicated in less than twenty fathoms. From this vicinity the channel contracts to little more than a mile and takes a more northerly direction tor three miles. There are two small islets near the narrowest portion of this passage at its southern entrance, — the track being indicated a third of the way from the eastern islet towards the other. The latter has a sunken rock close to its SE. sil>° O'.B K. Hi« boat pnrly onniped for the night in a small cove near thin point. The survey of these shoren made in 1HH:1, by NicholB, has not yi^l been received. t Sometimee given m Tonfai, Tomgaea, Ac. The name in doublieeg ilerivf d from the sniiie xourre in that of Fort Tungaas, but it aeeroa desirable to retain the dilference in form for the eake of diBoriniinating between the two aniliorages. t! ,' I :'^t g4 , GARDNER HABBOK. Tebienkoff, however, gives tlie position of the inner anchorage as Latitude 66° 02' N. Longitude : 131° 28' W., and stiiies that the rise and fall (tf tides amounts to fourteen feet. On Tebienkoff's rendering of Etolin's skctt^h an intimation appears that the compass on tlie latter is magnetic and not true, as it seems to be intended. Any bearings bikeii from it would, therefore, be subject to a doubt, for the clearing up of which data are not now accessible. Qravina Island is separated from Annette Island by Nichols Pass. It is the northernmost of the group which received the name of (Jravina Islands from Caamano, and which extends twenty miles from the pass above mentionetl in a northwesterly direction. The portion of the island adjacent to the passage is low and wooded. Its shores are but recently surveyed ; on its southern and western shores are several small indentations, and it terminates to the northwest, as previously described, in Point Vallenar, of which a submarine continuation produces a reef and some islets in the direction of its trend. PRINCE OF WALES AND ASSOCIATED ISLANDS. The western shores of Clarence Strait are formed by tl • Prince of Wales Archipelago, originally so named by Vancouver, freiiuently called Prince of Wales Island, but in all probability embracing a number of disiijct bcMlias of land, separated by passages little known or unexplored. The topography is broken or varied, but on the whole less abrupt in character than that of the mainland, and, except in the northern portion, not attaining anywhere to great elevations nor forming specially conspicuous Seaks. Few of the summits rise al>rive the snow-line; there are no rivers of large size, and the land is eavily wooded, principally with eomferous trees. The islets and passages are generally narrow, with compact shores, and apparently less obstructed by rocks than those to the northward and eastward. The southern and western coasts are much more broken than the eiistern, and especially the northern ones, and of all it may he said that we possess only an approximate knowletlge. From Cape Chacon, the southwestern extreme of Clarence Strait, the shores are broken, bordered by several islets and rocks, and trend to the northward eight or nine miles to the entrance of Grardner* Harbor, a name which first api)ears upon Russian Hydrographic Chart No. 1396, Gardner Harbor, prepared by Kupreanoff, and published in 1848. No plan of the harbor has been found, Imt it is indicated on the Russian charts a'* an entrance with an islet and a rock in it, within which a basin expands affording anchorage, altogether forming an iidct alM)ut a mile and a half wide and two miles in length. Russian authorities indicate the course in entering to be to the northward of the rock and islet, but there are no details of depth of water or position. The entrance is in the vicinity of Latitude 64° 60' N. Longitude 131° 45' W. If we may rely on the observations of Brundige (see p. fi4), the reef named by the U. 8. Const Survey Bi-undige liock lies midway Initwcen the entrance of Gardner Harbor and the roclcs stuth of Duke Island in the entrance of Clarence Strait. The land between Cordova Bay, Clareuce Strait, Dixon Entrance and Moira Sound appears to consist of a congeries of islands. It is doubtful whether tlij word "Archipelago,!' inserted over thit vicinity on Russian Hydrographic Chart No. 139G, is intended to apply to tht whole area above men- tioned, 01 whether it applies to tlu. small I'.nsurveyed Kendrick Bay, filled with islands, Kendriok Bay. situated aliout two miles to the .lurih ward of Gardner ilorl)or; and which, by an angle in the track laid down on thu. chart, is indicated as having served the Russian vessels as an anchorage. Beyond this indeiuation the coast rounds to NW., and at a distauce of about seven miles another large i)ay ottei-s, according to some authorities, a number of unexplored ai'ms which may contain anchorages. This bay, named I'lgraham Bay,t by the U. S. Coast Survey makes in several miles to the southward and at its entrance is a mile and a half wide. ImnuKliately to the NW. from it is ChichagofT Bay or Harbor of Kupreauoft", which namet has be<'n improperly transferred on British Admiralty Chart No. 24.'M and U. S. Hydrographic Chart No. 225 to the bay just iireviously mcntiontyl. Of the pres"'t bay the charts only afford the infor- mation that it is of small extent and was visited for anchorage i»y Ruasian ves-sels. The land forming the northern headland of this bay is a promoiitwry about a mile wide, from which, according to most • Tlio immi' "f Port Oardnor, whicli Ims hccii niiplicd ti) it, IircI licfu Dii-viDiiKly used hy Vanoouvi'i- in Piiget Sound. t In li.Hicif (if .loHPpli ln«iiiliam, iiiuKtci' ot' tin- Inifi Hojit, .■!' H(wt in 17U1-92. to wlioBf impubliKhed notes snd charts wi' arc iiiileliteil for viiliiiibli' li.vdioKiiipliiciil infiinniition. Ki-iidrick was nmtc witli Robcil Uray and was the first to oircUDioavigalH Vancouver Isliind niul d«terinini< its insiilur oliaiaiMei'. ( Sometimes spelled TohltcbaKOff. ToliinnkulTB name of tliis harbor ii very obsimrely printed upon bii chart No. IX. M ' 4i MOIRA AND CHOLMONDELKY SOUNDS. 86 authorities, a group of snmll islands and r(K!ks extend NW. by N. about three miles. According to Tfbienkoff, however, wiiose chart shows more detail in tliis vicinity than any other, these islets arc divided into two groups, with tho passage (which other authorities place to the westward of all the islets) l)etween the two groups about a niile wide and leading in a southerly direction into the extensive inlet named by Vancouver Moira Sound. The entrance within the islets is a Moira Sound. little less than two miles wide. The two principal ones Iwtween which the channel is appear to be about half a mile long and wotxled. The land about the sound is high and rather^ibruptly descending to the shore. The sound, according to Tebienkoff, penetrates the land for some ten miles, first extending four miles to the southward and then about six miles to the west and north, — the head being in the vicinity of .several otlier arms of the sea which extend from Cordova Hay and Cholmon- (leley Hound. Two unsnrveyed arms, ajiparently of no great extent, extend from the vicinity of the bend 'o the southward. This and the next inlet to the northward reiiuire more careful examination. The entrance to Moira Sound lies in about latitude 55° 3' N. About N NW. from its eastern lieadland six miles lies Wedge Island, named by V^ancouvcr, low, somewhat over a mile long, situated off the mouth of an indentation in the main shore and two r.r three miles to the northward of its eiistorn head. This island "in many points of view rcsembletl a wedge J * * * from its south point lic« a ledge of dangerous rocks on which the sea broke with great violence."'* Between it and the shores of tii" Imy to the westward lie several rocks and islets. Vancouver remarks ; "As we advanced lieyond VVetlge Island the straight and comjMiet shores were more moderately elevated, and the interior country was composed of lofty though uneven mountains, producing an almost impenetnible forest of pine trees from the waterside nearly to their summits." The latitude; of Wedge island is about 55° 8' K. according to Vancouver. Southwest from the island inland is a sharp mountain peak resembling Mount Caldcr in shape. From the northern end of the island about NE. four or five miles, across the strait, lies Dall Head.f on Gravina Island, a bold high blufl^', whose wcsUirn slope descends to a low point terminating in two small islands from which projects a reef markelerivai.** The two headlands are four or five miles apart, nearly N. and S., and the general dire(;tion of the bay from the entrance is W. by N. • Vancouver, vol. ii, pp. 380-3fil. t NiiiiMMi att.T Cnptiiin C. C. Dull, of tlic P. M. 8. K. Co.'s Bervicc. { Erniiiwiiisly ri'iulcn'il Point Cbarm nii of Obasen nrTcbasenl. i CbMlna Bay of Tdiieiikolf. II Viiii(iiiilinieB called by the tradei* Cone Point. •• ThiTi' Ik ho publinhi'd map or chart of this bay of even approximate correctncM except the small sketch included in chart No. 7 of Ihii. Tohime, from obaervations by Marcua Baker, IT. S. Co«»t and Geodetic .Survey. 86 KASA-AN BAY. I ■ r!> f Off point Grindiill in iin ESE. direction lies Qrindall Island, separated by a passage somewhat less tiiiui iiiilf a mil" \vid(!. This pas i"e is navif,':ii)!e, the steamer California having passed through it at low water. An islet and /t//' projei't troni Point (irindall in the direction of its trend two rabies, and then! is an islet and two roeks nnder t' j SW. shore ofGrindall Island, but these dangers appear to l)e fully visible in fair weather. Grindali Island is alK)ut a mile in length, flattish, with a knobby hill ri ing about a hnnilred feet and covered with small timber. At its NW. end is a bank on which anchorage may be Uad in ten fathoms; at the 8E. end of the island are a couple of rocks close in. Haifa mile north from Point Grindali is another small islet of bai>: rcn-k ten feet high. In mid-entnniceto Kasa-an Bay, about two miles S SE. from Point Grindali, are three islets trend- inj; E NE. and U ^W. The outer one, High Island, is rounded and high. They are all w«xled, but the two iiuier ones are low. The channel generally used is that northward from High Island, though there is a clear passage on both sides. TIk; water is deep. Entering the bay the northern shore is moun- tainous, compact and heavily timberwl. The Iwaches alternate with rocks and shingle-. About four miles from Point (Jrindall 6Vor(/e /I'w/" makes out in a southeasterly direction from that shore three or four cables, mostly visible. About a mile SW. from this reef a sunken rock is reportetl,* which there- fore would be nearly in mid-cliaimel. This rwk, of which we have no details, would appear to be vcrv dangerous ii' correctly lociited and should be looked out for. About ten miles westward from Point (Jrindall apeak rises two thousand feet. Near the shore hereiibouts copper ore exists. The southern shore is greatly broken. Just within Island Point is a large unsurveyed bay, extending south- ward, called Skowl Hay, with an Indian village at its head, of which settlement Skowl is said to have been the ])rincipal chief. Tradei-s have anchored in this bay, which is said to divide near it» head and to have its shore near Island Point infested with /od-w. SW. i W. from Point Grindali three miles is Skowl Point, tli(^ eastern end of Skowl Island, from which George Reef on the northern shore bears NW. by W. nnder a ragged cliff. There are .some sniall islets and rocks almve water, close into the northern shore of Skowl Island, which extends westward three or four mik>s. Westward from this is Long Island, with its northern shore indented and about two miles in length. South from Skowl Island tiie shores are much broken and unexplored. Soutliward from liOng Island is a deep opening, Baker Inlet, just to the westward from which another narrower inlet oj)cns, which, from the distance it is said to extend to the southwest, is called Eighteen-mile Arm. By this o«noes reach a low portaee over which one or two days' walk is said to carry one to Tlevak Strait or Port Bucareli. The gap looks as if it cut the island in two. The land west from the northern point of entrance to this arm is low, broken and timbered. About a mile NW. from the NW. part of the Long Island group is a smalt islet called Round Islet. Round Island open of Point Grindali W. or W. h N. is reported by Pilot George to clear all dan- gers from Point Grindali to the fishery and leads to the anchorage. Or, after passing Long Island, a white jiatch at the head of the bay. may be steered for until the anehonige at the fishery is in view. On this line for the most part the water is more than twenty fathoms deep; at ten miles from Point (irindall it slioals to fifteen fathoms. About twelve miles westward from Point Grindali the northern shore rounds to tlii^ north and becomes lower; a rather wide (five or six miles) bay is formed, full of low wooded islands, the unexplored walsrs of which are said to be shoal and dangerous. Fifteen miles W. .J S. from Point (irindall, on the southern shore, a small cove makes in southward and east- ward. Here is situated tiie Kasa-an Anchorage and the small settlement known as Baranovitoh Fishery. The buildings arc situated on the eastern shore of the cove. In rounding to the anchor- age is in eight fathoms, soft bottom, with the house bearing SE. by E. At the wharf there is but six feet of water at low tide; off the end of the wharf four fathoms, soft bottom. West from the end of the wharf in the middle of the cove is a nine-fool nhoal. West of the cove a deep gap in the high land of Prince of Wales Island is visible; a two or three days' portage is ])racticable here, leading towards Klawak. South from the anchorage a peculiar [)eak is visible in the distance. The settlement was founded by Philip liaranovitch, and has since his death been occu])ie(l by iiis family and others. A stream (tomes in at the head, where a salmon fishery has Iwcn estal)lislied, \\w. fish running in July and Atigust, and about one thousand barrels being put up here in a season. The position of (he anchorage, according to the IT. S. Ilydrographic Office Cliart No. 225, is about ,; Latitude 55° 28' N. ;. Longitude 132° 19' W. I S I The range of the tide is said to be sixteen feet. Two days after new moon it is high water at 1 p. m. at the anchorage. In .May, 1880, the declination was determined to be 27° 48' easterly, and the dip 73" 58', by the I '. S. Const Sr.vey. This is stated to be one of the finest bays in this region, the harbor good and easy of access; C(xl and halibut very abundant in their season; the spruce and yellow cellar attaining gri.ut size on its shores. ' By Mr. IbIio, a reeidcnt miner. TOLSTOI BAY. 87 Kasa-an Bay is erroneously represented by Tehieiikott" (chart IX,) iw coimtH-t<(l witli Tolstoi Bay to the nortlnvest. Tiioiigh their extremes must be very near eaeii otlier, it appeai-s from a sketch of Tolstoi Bay, made by the Haunter party in 1882, that they are not united. Up to this point, with the exception of Brundige Rocks and dangers immediately adjacent to the shores, so far as yet known, Clarence Strait is clear of olwtructions to navigation. From Point Grindall the coa.st trends NW. J W. for about fifte<'n miles, with some irregularities, to Broad (in Russian, Tolstoi) Point, a high, rounded, thickly-wooded, steep promon- tory, imnietliately westward from which is Tolstoi Bay, named by Nichols, in 1H«'J, Tol8tol Bay. from its proximity to the point, though the bay itself is long and narrow. This l)ay is unsurveyed, but a hasty sketch was made by Nichols in 1882, which affords some idea of its prin- cipal features. From Broad Point two miles and a half W. by N. J N. is the opposite extreme of a bight which indents the shore in a southerly direction about a mile and a half. The western shores of this bight are not well known, but they are irregular and more or less fringed with islands. The eastern limit of the bight is fotnied by the western head of Tolstoi Bay. From a spot three-(piarters of a mile W. by N. i N. from the northern extreme of Broad Point a line 8. j E. trends directly to the head of Tolstoi Bay and passes nearly in raid-channel. At one mile from the starting point on this line Tolstoi Bay is less than a mile wide; at two miles there is a small opening abeam on the western shore and the water is still more than forty fathoms deep; at half a mile farther the bay narrows to less than half a mile with water between thirty and forty fathoms; at half a mile farther the bay narrows to thrce-eighthi" of a mile with twenty to twenty-eight fathoms, and then widens a little to form a sort of basin a mile long N. and 8. and half a mile wide. The eastern point of entrance to this basin has some roclcs and an islet close in. On this side of the bay farther south there are several islets and a rocky patch with four to eight fathoms over it. There is anchorage in the middle of the northern half of this basin in eight to thirteen fathoms, fine gray sand. The soundings are uneven and the bottom in many places rocky, but it is considered by Nichols to be a pretty good anchorage. Northerly and southerly winds must draw through with considerable force, and the fact that the anchorage is more than three miles from the entrance would, in general, detract from the availability of this bay as a resort for vessels. There was formerly an Indian village near the entrance at which the Russian trading vessels visitend the shore an apparently much obstructed and not-to-lw-recommended channel exists, named by Russian authorities the KasheTarofi* Pas- sage or Strait.* It is quite possible that a clear channel may exist here, but in advance of a more detailed examination than it has yet received navigators should avoid entering it, except with great caution. Nine and a half miles W. J N. from Point Stanhope is Blashke Island.t the largest in the southern part of the group. The north westernmost island is identified by Russian authorities with Bushy Island]: of Vancouver, whose survey in this vicinity was very imperfect. On either side of this island, which is about two miles long, are some detached rocks; a chain of small islets strebhes to the westward towards the opposite shore, but to the northeast of the island a navigable passage exists three- quarters of a mile wide. About northwestward from I'oint Stanhope is Point Harrington of Vancouver, a name transferred on Russian Hydrograpliic Chart No. 1493, aud TebienkoflF Chart No. IX, to the point next northward, but properly belonging to a narrow tongue of land with a rock and islet adjacent to its extremity, forming, according to Vancouver's c' Tt, the southeastern extreme of Stikine Strait. This point is not conspicuous i m a distance. It is low, rough and rocky, and in summer can be recognized by its bright green appearance, due to a dense growth of brush uiwn it. The peninsula from which it extends is about two thousand feet high and conspicuous in the middle of the strait from the southward. When Point Harrington beare NE. by E. J E. about one mile the entrance to Stikine Strait is open, and is recognizable at some distance by an abrupt saddle peak at its eastern side. Immediately behind it is Steamer Bay, in Russian Farakhotnia, Steamer Bay. where anchorage is indicated on the Russian charts. No soundings are given on the published charts, but a manuscript Russian chart shows an anchorage one mile inside the entrance in a cove on the south shore. A note on U. S. Ilydrographic Chart No. 225 states that this is a "good harbor." From a brief reconnaissance by the Hauler at Steamer Bay in 1882 it is learned that the bay is funnel-shaped, with a small basin at its head; the dangers visible were all close to the shores. From Point Harrington the opix>site point of entrance bears NE. by N. about a mile. There is about forty fathoms water in mid-channel. Thence the bay extends about two miles E8E.; the narrowest part, a mile and a third from the entrance, is contracted by an island on the north shore to about two cables, with twenty-two fathoms water. A third of a mile farther in the bay shoals from about nineteen fathoms to ten and twelve fathoms, sand and broken shell, where anchorage may be had. A stream comes in at the head of the bay, and the south shores, asjKHjially outside of the basin, are broken and irregular. No directions seem necessary for entering. Opposite the section from P(>int Stanho{)e to Point Harririgton the south shore of Clarence Strait is low with high land in the distance. The position of Point Harrington and that of the shores and j)assages immediately northward from it are in doubt. They appear to be several mrii;s farther north and west than the charts represent. From Point Harrington Point Nesbitt of Vancouver bears W. J N. about six miles and forms the southwestern extreme of Stikine Strait. It is a low wooded j)oint, terminating in a reef covered at low water. According to N ichols, 8 8E. three-quarters of a mile from Point Nesbitt is a dangerotu rock awash at about a quarter ebb. * Kashyarow Strait of the II. S. Hydrogrupliic Office Cbnrt No. 235, where a passage ib iiidicnted betweeu liubhy lalaad and that next east from it. * t Probably named for Dr. Eihmrd L. Blashke, who vinited the colonies with Etolin in the ship Nikolai, in 18.39-41. It is usually erroneously written Blosbki. t The name on Russian Hydrographio Chart No. 1493 is erroneously rendereoint extending oft" half to tliree-