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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 V 0^ -^a>^ (SIE1SISS1IL\^)^ID St THE ADJACENT SEAS. AND THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE TO THE 9 ILLUSTRATED IN A VOYAGE TO DAVIS S STRAIT, During the Summer o/" 1817. BY BERNARD O'REILLY. Es^. NEW-YORK : PUBLISHED BY JAMES EASTBUBN AND CO. AT THE LITERARY ROOMS, BROADWAY. Clayton If Kingaland, Printers, 1818. ,v - i^', \ PREFACE. The absolute want of scientific information on the subject of northern climates induced the author of these observations to sub- mit to a situation little attractive to choice in every consideration, namely, the place of surgeon to a whale ship, in order that, from personal experience, such information might be derived as would be acceptable to the generality of readers interested in such sub- jects. The matter of inquiry seemed to involve many objects highly deserving of illustration. The arctic animals and birds of passage there found, and the whale fishery as connected with the manufactures and the mari- time interests of Britain, given in detail, appeared to the author an object of great interest, and consequently occupied much of his attention. This, therefore, it is presumed, will be consider- ed as highly important. The arguments adduced to prove the practicability of a north- west passage are supported by facts not hitherto examined, and are of such weight as to give confidence in their accuracy. The accomplishment of this great object must be evidently of vast benefit to the commercial interests of Great Britain, and cannot fail to interest the reader, as the expectation of its discovery, ex- cited in some measure by the fortunate voyage here related, has induced the government to fit out ships for a voyage of discovery, IV I'KKI'ACF. wl.icli alter all may not be as IbitunaU'. F-r ilio .lUcif.us ol science and of humanity, may it be still more so ! Phenomena of almosphcro, new to men of science, and of im- poitant valne m natural history, may also be very conlidtntly held forth as objects worthy of altontion. With regard, then, to points mont important to public nirornia lion, as well as in gratification of the feeling which led the author into the arctic regions— the general influence of seasons on the human species in high northern latitudes, and in countries un- doubtedly insular— the migratory animals frctpienting tliose cli- mates—the natural phenomena of atmosphere, and the ascertain- ment of magnetic variation — with regard to these, this work, in presenting facts, leaves little to conjecture, less to speculation. Aware of the system, by wliich, according to law, the (Govern- ment is furnished with a log returned from each ship employed in the "Greenland fisheries"'— a log calculated to support philoso- phical inquiry, only by reciting an exhibition of voyage by no means prejudicial to the ship-owner's interest, and (jvite enough for the Government to know when additional revenue is the objcci to be recorded on the collector's books— perfectly aware of this, it appeared incumbent on one devoted to the muse of science to abstract himself from such interested purposes — to leave to the male of a ship such arrangements of his log as might best suit the purpo.-es of his employers, and to the master such plans of his private journal as, detailing every circumstance which could aid the advancement of his own interest, might be unseen by every eye but his own. Such i-ecords, truly I'emote, in regard to elucidation, from facts which concern the great cause of science, induced the author not to trust for support to documents placed in custom-houses, nor to rely on the uncertain information which might be coaxed from the master of a whale ship, but rarefully to efloct h\< intention :'»/ PREFACE* by keeping a journ.il adapted to all the scientific objects lie had in view. This was his purpose in undortakinii; a voyae;c hazard- ous ill the extreme, cooped up with uninformed, unsociable be- ings. Nature was the grand object of his choice, and his sole consolation. Compelled by ardency of inquiry to endure unusual privation of sleep, and severest transitions of temperature, the author allowed to pass no opportunity, consistent with the maintenance of health, frequently urged to the extremity of constitutional endurance, lest a single thing conducive to the enlightening of the public mind should escape his observation. With this intent, painful personal feeling was disregarded in order to ascertain the latitude and ex- act situation of every point of land that came into view. This was effected chiefly by means of the attention which Mr. W. Brass, master of the Thomas, paid to suggestions incessantly urged upon him, in the midst of the duties which a paramount forbiddance of law, and the interests of his owner, required. In sight of the Linn kan Islf.s, July 17, the latitude was de- termined, from Mr. Brass's observations, to be seventy-five degrees, seventeen minutes, north ; the variation of the magnetic needle, a1 the same time noted, being seven points. Many days elapsed be- fore the sailing of the Thomas from that latitude, occasionally shifting her station, as necessary for the purposes of the voyage, On one such occasion, the termination of the Linncean Mes came dis- tinctly in view, the open sea lying beyond, when the latitude, no oh servation being taketi, was most probably about the seventy-seventh degree. The state of the atmosphere permitted a prospect of o degree at least further to the northward, where the continental ice was evidently interminable. The horizon at the same time to the westward was clear, and exhibited no appearance of blink ; all the broken field ice having drifted down to the southward, and 4 VI I'KLtACL. the sea reniamirij? as clear as the Atlantic, blue, ami agitated by a coii!i. '»1 about the age of Tamerlane, who, previously to his grand conquests in India, was nothing but a powerlul northern lord. Modern Russia even owes to writers of polished talent, contemporary with the more im- proved state of that empire, rather than to the rude le- gends of her own inhabitants, whatever of elegance is flung over her early history. With regard to the present subject, the scantiness of materials to form an interesting history of Green- land, renders the undertaking unsatisfactory and un- gracious ; but, with the reader's indulgence, so much shall be detailed as appears most consistent with fact. The paiticulars have been carefully selected from such authorities as are the most respectable on this head. Snorro Sturleggen, who lived in the twelfth cen- tury, is stated to have been the author of the Specu- lum Regale, a compilation of ancient Icelandic rhymes, collected in the year 1215. This is the first historic light to guide inquiry in the history of Greenland. The next writer to be noticed is Torfieus, who was by birth an Icelander. His book bears the title of Gra3nlandia Antiqua. Torfa;us appears to have em- ployed Sturleggen's work as an inexhaustible source of fact, his whole context being little else than a trans- cript from that memorable legend. This writer dates the first discovery of Greenland by Europeans, in the year 982 of the Christian era ; and on his autho- rity is founded the early history of Greenland as con- nected with the European world. With respect to the commentaries of Torfa^us, much caution is adviseable in admitting his details, as 'VI ■J 1 t m^ INTRODUCTION. h'lH rl'ul tcrs iin- le- ince 1 the state of science in the times in which he wrote, and the great difficulties attending expeditions by sea in those rude ages, together with the exaggera- tions that such adventures would naturally give rise to, must perplex or mislead. Tlie writers cf those times were possessed of a chivalrous spirit to exalt the character of their coun- trymen, and the very act of undertaking or effecting a voyage was suflTicient to afford the adventuring hero a distinguished place in the historical record of the times. The Danish Missionary Crantz has endeavoured to make up for the deficiencies of his predecessors in relating the history of Greenland. That writer used the materials of a primitive missionary, Egede, who published an account of his great and extraordinary endeavours to benefit the native Greenlanders. The difficulties Egede had to encounter, even in the out- set of his undertaking, were excessive; but, in 1721, he at length succeeded in obtaining permission from the King of Denmark to proceed on his humane pur- pose of communicating the gospel tidings to the sup- posed lost settlers from Norway, who, in the stories of the day, were said to inhabit the eastern shores of Greenland, about the sixty-fourth degree of north la- titude. Accordingly, in the same year, the worthy and pious missionary arrived at Baal's River, being driven thither, rather than succeeding in his endea- vours to gain the point of coast to which the prevail- ing traditions of the time directed him. At the above place native Greenlanders were found, who express- 4 INTUODI'CTION, cd the greatest reluctance to any settlement being made upon their shores. This acconnt seems to have but little wel2:ht even with Crantz, the writer who repeats it. Jle possess- ed a stronir imairination, involved in all the Bible commentaries of" the day, and, though evidently pos- sessed of much capacity of thouqiit, appears not to have availed himself of the great and abundant ma- terials for observation, which his situation alForded him, but was obliged to eke out a tardy volume of ec- clesiastical detail to gratify his German patrons. The confusion of dates in Crantz's book is extremely per- plexing, and is calculated very much to mislead in- quiry. The cold which prevails in the arctic regions is also another source of difficulty in the endeavour to procure accurate information rec^arding those coun- tries from the natives, and the harsh medium of the Danish lanccuai^e, and uncertain transfer of intelli- gence through the Danish interpreter, renders an ap- plication to that intent generally fruitless, or at best unsatisfactory. As to the poor Grccnlandevri, little information can be had from them regarding the history of their na- tion. They are said to have no " oral, nor written records ;" but some traces of tradition are cherished among them to encourage the rising generation to imitate the exploits of some distinguished progenitor, who left a deathless fame by his skill and intrepidity in killing seals. Yet what can such tradition avail in the search for historic information ? With regard to the Greenlander, such inquiry is unavailing : and theij .■| IXTRODUCTION. I I I dislike of strangers intruding on their fishing haunts rendots it equally useless to seek from them any ac- cMiate account of tlicir present masters. On this |)oiiit, the European historians remain the only re- source. The authors above referred to, namely Snorro Sturleggen, who is said to be the writer of the " Spe- culum Regale," and his commentator Torfa)us, and latterly Egede and his commentator Crantz, appear to be the most distinguished amongst those who liavc written of Greenland. The accounts of those writers fix the discovery of that country in the year 9o2. But Claudius Christophersen, otiierwisc Lyscander, a di- vine, has conjectured the date of that event to be in the year 770. The latter rests on reference to a Bull of Pope Gregory IV^. dated in the year 835, wherein the conversion of the fcelanders and Greenlanders is expressly committed to the first northern apostle, named Ansicarius. These conjectures have much importance attached to them, as they lay the foundation of emigration from Europe at a very early period, however unfixed that period may be. The subsequent accounts refer ge- nerally to other migrations from the same quarter, having various objects in view: some to propagate the Gospel anew; others to retrace the steps pointed out by annals, at that time often copied in gilt cha- racter; others again, urged by the love of gain, to recover possession of such treasures as were reported to exist in those lands of wine, honey, corn, and cattle. These various pursuits were concentrated under one head, the finding of Old or Lost Greenland. How 6 INTRODUCTION. such an inquiry became necessary shall be next the snhjcrt of research. It appears from the early accounts that Eric Raude, an enterprising chieftain, by birth a Norwegian, being- compelled to go into banishment, was the first discoverer of Greenland. An expedition was fitted out the following year, consisting of twenty-five ships, fourteen of which only arrived. Where the point of destination lay, the story does not inform ; yet where- ver those adventurers landed they found such people as answer the description of the Greenlanders of the present day. Thorfin, an Icelandic chieftain, is said to have discovered Wineland, which is conjectured to be Newfoundland, where he also met with a similar people. They called them Skraellings, which means persons of a diminutive size, and which the reader will hereafter find is consonant to modern observa- tion. The native Greenlanders have amongst them some confused and imperfect accounts of the Kablu- na3t, that is, the European, having called them by the name of Karalit, which, from their mode of omitting the first letter of words different from their own, bears a resemblance to Skrrclhng, and in some degree main- tains the credit of the tradition. One remarkable trait in the character of this peo- ple is an insurmountable aversion to the presence of intruders ; and such they consider every one who is not of their own nation. In whatever manner they and the new-comers agreed, whether adopting their usual measure, of withdrawing to a remote distance to leave the helpless strangers to perish, or to retire from their fisheries, Is not related. Ivar Beer, an earlv I % INTRODUCTION. historian, mentions, that Greenland was inhabited and tilled both on the eastern and western sides, in the fourteenth century. This is further confirmed by another statement, which represents Lief, the son of Eric Raude, coming to Norway, in 999, to report on the state of Greenland. Adam Bremensis, who wrote in the eleventh century, makes mention of Lief having discovered Newfoundland, in the year lOOl, and went the year following to Greenland, probably on his fathers course, and met with Skra^llings in boats. Accounts thus far considered may, in a great de- j^rec, establish the fact of the Norwegians and Ice- landers having been the first Europeans who can claim the discovery of Greenland. Yet it must be admitted, that others had the merit of discoverinff it before them ; for the former visiters found a people of small stature already in possession. The Nor- wegian relations go no higher than the sixty-fourth degree, which is about the entrance to Baal's River on the west side, and the promontory of Herjolf's Ness, in the sixty-third degree on the eastern side. The former was the principal place of the colony; and between these two points were situate numerous little settlements, at present said to be indicated by their ruins, the largest of which are visible on the south-eastern extremity of the country between Staten Hook and Frobisher's Straits. These ruins, of churches and large dwellings, are a further support to the foregoing statement; but the natives about Baal's River, when asked for the explanation of the name of a particular place there, describe it as the 8 LNTRODUCTION. place where men shot arrows at one another. Here then it appears the extirpation of the Europeans began, wliich was carried round the scttiemenls in savage fury by the Skra^ihngs, until the country be- came their own again; or, if any survived the mas- sacre, cold, privations, and despair, must have ef- fected their destruction. In the fourteenth century, the Skrtcllings suddenly made their appearance in great numbers in West Greenland; and their fust onset produced the death of eighteen Norwegians. This petty war continued long enough to obta infor the country the name of Old or Lost Greenland among Europeans; and the natives still remember the war of extermination car- ried on by their forefathers with tlie Kabluna^t, that is, the European intruders, and their having bravely killed or expelled the invaders. To another cause may also be attributed this catas- trophe. In the year 1350, a great plague desolated nearly all Europe, but ravaged most severely the northern countries. Possibly the ruinous effects of this pestilence may have reached Greenland, and de- stroyed the scanty colonies there. Excessive cold is known to approximate, in its effects, to excessive heat ; and to this cause principally is attributed the nume- rous and civilized population of Iceland having been swept away during a similar visitation. The journal of Bishop Egede records a similar waste of human life, among the natives, which he witnessed to be pro- duced by the baneful contagion of the small-pox, in- troduced by the crews of some ships that conveyed thither a Moravian mission, in the year 1733, and >i7i if 4 4. i INTRODUCTION. 9 i which raged from September in that year, till the June following. At one place alone, 200 families of (Jreenlanders were cut off', leaving only eighteen sur- vivors. That the period of the former pestilence must have been singularly calamitous, is evident from the disap- pearance of an extensive island in the northern At- lantic, peopled with polished inhabitants dwelling in a hundred towns, which, shortly after its discovery, was suddenly overwhelmed in the ocean, and disap- peared with every living creature on its surface. About that time, the spirit of discovery was much indulged, and almost every country produced ardent adventurers. The people of Britain and Ireland were not inactive in this respect; the latter being repre- sented as trading to West Friesland, the island above- mentioned, for the sake of the fisheries. As no exist- ing history of Ireland makes mention of this circum- stance, the doubt may be lessened by stating, that it was part of the policy of Queen Elizabeth to deprive that island of her records, by which probably more mischief was done to the great cause of history than could be balanced by the little triumph of humbling a nation's pride. Columbus, in entering on his immortal pursuit, came to Britain to carry his purpose by kingly assistance. He was refused the protection he sought; and Spain profited by his disappointment. Two noble Venetians following his example, obtained a ship in Ireland, and sailed to West Friesland, which their surprise at find- ing populous and flourishing caused them to announce as having been by them first discovered. The names 10 If.TKODi;CTlON. of these Venetians are Nicliolas and Anthon)' Zeni : their discovery is ilated I'MiO. Tliis island, West Friesland, was laid down in tlie fifty-eighth degree, between Iceland and Greenland. It is said to liave been touched at by Frohi^iier, in one of his voyages in search of gold in Greenland. This spot is now marked on the charts as occupying an extensive and dangerous tract of ocean, and is named the Sunken Land of Bust?. Mariners are studiously careful to avoid it. It is in tenipestuous weather covered by a high and terrible sea. When humane reflection comes to contemplate this awful event, considerations of the most painful description must arise. The darkness in which the northern history in- volves the fate of tliis island is peculiarly uninviting to accurate research. That there has been a West Friesland is by no means doubtful; and that such a country was not the Greenland of late note, is equally certain. The population in the hundred towns of this island, placed so far north as represented, and so far to the soiitliward of Iceland, was well worthy of the notice of the historians of the time. The mind, how- ever rude, in viewing tlie waves that still tower over its waste, must sicken at the contemplation. The site can only come within the cixsual glance of the wary mariner; and in the latitude of die Sunken Land such a man is guided by his fears to avoid the dangerous spot. Valleys of dreadful soundings, and peaks of tremendous and destructive contact, buried in the ocean water, forbid an exact inquiry regarding its actual position. That the island in question has been there, about the time mentioned, facts forbid us to I .^. INTRODUCTION. 11 'i t I ^5 I disbelieve ; whilst its fearful disappearance very natu- rally prevents the rarely passing stranger from ex- ploring the actual depths thereabouts, in order to de- te the d; )fth erous circumstances Qua;re? May not this land of Buss so sunken bear some probable rrfcicncc to the Old or Lost Green- land, or the Atalaritis of the Greek writers ? It would not be easy to disprove this. It certainly must apjjeur matter of surprise, that the name of tliese coujjtries should still be Greenland, thouEfh even in less or more degree the peculiar scene of snow and ice. Tlie accounts, on which popular belief has hitherto rested, inform the public by making a comparison between those regions and the island of Iceland, whence the early navigators sailed westward. Strange, that at a time when some imaginary hero, worthy of Runic record, some such man as Flokko is reported to have been, did not direct his followers to a place of such natural importance as West Friesland must have been, so contiguous, and so much towards the ijenial south. We must conclude, that the island so designated, the Atalantis of the Greeks, or the famed Ultima Thule, s'tould have stood in more note than to escape the observation ot men sailing for strange and consequently unknown countries. The name Greenland would in that event, that is, the dis- covery and colonization of a fine and fertile soil, af- terwards stiidded with a hundred towns, have been more appropriately and si<^nificantly applied than to the barren peaks about Staten Hook, or Cape Fare- well, or such other parts of southern Greenland, as m — : ■*>— * 12 IM'UODUCTION. must naturally present tlicuiselvcs first over the liori- y.on to tlie eye of the voyager. From the pen of one of the writers on tliis subject, we are told that the name Greenland was o-ivcn to the Countries where the Norwegians ventured to fix their settlements, in contradistinction to the bleak and snow-clad mountains of Iceland. Both, however, have been niisa[)plied. If the early annals of Iceland be correct, die appellation of that island is derived from the immense quantities of ice annually driven on its shores; but no season of the year presents the as- pect of Greenland (with the exception of rocky faces of mountains fronting a southern sun) without the pre- sence of a cloak of snow, or a chilling curtain of ice. It is true, the elevated lands in Greenland produce in themselves such an absorption of solar heat, during the summer months, as to make the atmosphere insup- portably sultry at certain hours, and during particular winds; but vegetation has not there suflicient life to warrant the use of such an application of the epithet green, as characterizing the general aspect of the country. In examining into this part of the subject, recourse must be had to other means of elucidation than such conjecture, and, in the language of the natives, a cri- terion is discoverable. This harmless race have an expression for the sun which bears but little resem- blance to any term in language hitherto regarded. Succanuk is their term for the luminary that brings tliein back their fishing months with his presence. In this his retirement southwards, the northern people say, "Succanuk is gone to Succanunga:" by this I ' >^ K-i^^'^-^-m^ ^' INTRODUCTION'. 13 llOll- :« ^;i tliey describe all the lands where tlieir fisheries arc successful. \ovv through what source a synonjrnc for Succariuiiga may be traced to the language of nations ver) remote from this truly original people may aj)pt'in' matter of interesting speculation. A classical reader, familiar with the works of Greek and Roman writeis, will recollect that an epithet for the noonday Aj)ollo, when clad in Latin form, is Gry- na^us. (jlrynaHis Aj;oIIo forms an adulatory invocation in the prayer of Eneas, who was at once a priest and prince according to the Phrygian mythological system, (icneral Valiancy, who bestowed much and very ex- traordinary labour on the subject of antiquities, par- ticularly those referable to eastern origin, has fixed on the word Grian, of Irish or Celtic signification, as it may be received, being epithetically expressive of the strongest power of the sun, which is synonymous among all ancient nations with the Apollo of Grecian mythology. To avoid, therefore, invidious reference as to intercourse with the Greenlanders, it may be fairly admitted, that the synonyme, by whatever voy- ager to these parts communicated, is justly explained by the above terms : let us view them in connexion : Succanuk — the Sun. Succanunga — Greenland. Grian — Apollo, or the Grianland — Land of the Sun. Sun. The Land of thw Sun, or Sunny-land, as familiarly may be said, corresponds with the simple appellation which the natives give their country. The adventu- rers who came in aftertimes to seek the same shores, not probably understanding the meaning of the term, 14 INTRODUCTION. ■ t h §. yet spelling the word as they could from hearing it often repeated, were inclined to write Grianland in their mode Greenland, which sounds very nearly alike, but in the language of Denmark has no refer- ence to the original, and hence the absurdity of the application of such a name as Greenland to countries comparatively destitute of every product of nature that gives a green luxuriance and vegetative beauty to more southern climates. The brief view of the subject thus laid down will suffice for such as are desirous to examine the more immediate purpose of this work. Histories of almost every explored portion of the globe crowd tiic shelves of libraries, and are at the hand of the hourly reader. The man, however, who scans human nature, who studies his connexion with the correievant parts of creation, and who weighs his destinies, his responsibi- lities, his value in the great scale of being, will not be content with words alone, how plausibly soever au- thenticated. A wish to witness the facts as grounded on observation, denies him quiet, until doubt can be excluded by experience. He tries, travels, studies, deeply reflects, makes up his mind, and passes judg- ment. Such a rule should be the guide of any one intruding on public opinion. It is the same principle that exalts the British jurisprudence above that of every people on earth, in the heaven-born system of the trial by jury. Every honest man so seated is an Alfred, as each individual there forms his own opinion. Such reflections actuated the mind of the writer of the following sheets previous to his undertaking. The object of inquiry appeared highly important. It J 4 ^1 M INTRODUCTION. 15 seemed also involved in much mystery ; and its de- velopment was viewed as matter of meritorious pur- suit. A voyage to Davis's Straits was therefore un- dertaken for the purpose of obtaining satisfactory in-^ formation on many points of natural history, hitherto untouched, or which had not been sufficiently elucida- ted. The circumstances of the voyage were of such a nature as left more for observation than a progress of discovery should be accompanied with. The rea- der, however, may rest assured that what shall be submitted to perusal is accurate, and such as many, enjoying the indulgences of warmer regions, would feel little inclination to witness. ib '.L i\ 'flVi I I '1 I f«f m M :mf ,!■• I- VOYAGE OUTWARD. 19 m I I >^ to every one experimenting with an electrical ma- chine, when, as the cylinder is revolved, a wind is sensibly felt if the hand is placed near the cylinder. Tile presence of this principle in the clouds is very remarkable during the formation of the cloud above mentioned, being what is familiarly called the thun- der cloud. Mr. Howard has lately laid down a classification of the clouds, by which this branch of natural history has been signally simplified. The reader is requested to refer to that ingenious gentleman's publicatioQ. His theory has been also copied at length into Mr. Forster's book on Clouds,* wherein many curious illustrations of this subject are inserted. As my ap- plications V. ere on a scale of more than .3,000 miles in extent, with a perfectly natural horizon almost per- petually under observation, I trust that the details, which shall be as brief as possible, will not be sub- jected to a charge of presumption on the patience of the reader. I may be also pardoned the expression of my own feeling of their importance to the great concerns of navigation and trade. And as, in con- sequence of such views of nature, on general princi- ples, as 1 hope to exhibit in the progress of this work, the great Atlantic and Northern seas in general may, ere long, become the theatre of more frequent com- merce, other benefits may be found to arise from the conclusions to be drawn from these observations. With regard then to clouds, I shall take the clas- sical names laid down by Mr. Howard; and leaving the discussion of his elegant theory in abler hands, * Besearches about Atmospheric Phenomena, by Thomas Forster, F. L. S '^me' I, ;• . t 20 VOYAGE OUTWARD. must beg that gentleman's indulgence, in placing them in such arrangement as I found, from expe- rience, to be most useful in application. To this classification, a concise exposition shall be added, by way of illustration, for such readers as may not have seen Mr. Howard's exposition. This illustration is intended merely to convey a clear idea of the colour and general situation of the clouds. Therefore, be- ginning with the lowest member of the classification, we shall proceed with the next in simplicity, and then to their various compounds, pointing out the probable agency of each. Taking nubes then for the term expressive of the genus, the names of the species arc as follow : ^n '^ V i!l Genus. Nubes. Species. Stratus Lowest of all clouds. Evening and morning ground mist. Cirrus Highest ditto. Mares' Tails. Mackarel sky, &.C. Cumulus Small dense cloud, increasing upwards, base horizontal. Cirrostratus. . . . The common loose vapoury cloud, gene- rally of a brownish colour. In pro- file, it represents the figure of a tish ; sometimes a dark streak, and lying parallel to the horizon ; sometimes descending very dark at a sharp or acute angle. It is the most variable of all clouds, and is usually interme- diate between the others. Cirrocumulus . . Next in height to cirrus, generally white, in round, irregular, or diamond patch- es, or representing small waves ; the last form usually preced«i^ a high wind. VOYAGE OUTWARD. 21 rieniis. Spnt-ios. ^ubcs. Cumulostratus . . The previous I'orm oi' nimbus, called by seamen the " lanil clouJ," being at a distance like rocks and mountains, havinsj, acrordina; to its position '.vith the s'ui, round and rugged snowy tops, dark body, base of the same or deop- blui^h black, horizontal and ragged, or rirroso ; moves often against the wind.* Nimbus The cumulostratus discharging rain, hail, lightning, &.c. II' ■ -■0, 1 m •J pro- i ish ; '1 ying mes ' " :\ t or djie. nc- itc. ch- he id. Having thus briefly enumerated the different spe- cies of clouds, a few observations on their most ob- vious uses may not be out of place. Tlie cirrus, as- cending, assumes some modification of cirrostratus ; and owing to some priiiciples, probably communicated from its auxiliary, the latter puts on such a variety of colours as it generally presents. The rainbow, and also many other luminous phenomena, appear in this medium. Cirrostratus is the store from which the cumulus is collected ; whilst the latter becomes by agglomeration the cumidostratus. The cumulos- tratus, being charged with the electric fluid, changes to nimbus, which subsequently becomes cirrostratus again. Cirrostratus, when elevated to a higher and drier atmosphere, is changed into the form of cirrocu- nmlus, in which thi electric principle seems to be less active than in the others. This beautiful cloud is the ornament of summer and tranquil skies, and is by the simple pen of Bloomfield described as having •' the beauteous semblance of a flock at rest." * *' Noctem hiememque ferens."' n m^M 22 VOYAGE OUTWARD. W^ ' 'I V When tlie electric fluid is called into action, this cloudy viz. tiie cirrocumuhis, if not previously dissolved in the surrounding atmosphere, undergoes a rapid change. Shortly after, the long, fine flaxen cirrus, exhibits its slender forms, sometimes in a single silvery line ; sometimes like the fabled tresses of Ariadne ; at other times, when crossed by an ascending or descending current of electricity, it exhibits an elegant represen- tation of waves. Previous to a storm, its changes arc most rapid, and Its form often evanescent. At all times, it is considered the index of the electric fluid; and one accustomed to its direction can venture to predict, with tolerable certainty, the approach and dcy;ree of force of a wind, many hours, nay, often days, before the change takes place. To seafaring people, a knowledge of the forms and situation of this cloud is essential to security. The next object to which I shall invite the reader's attention, is an enumeration of winds, and such prin- cipally as are most familiar to the navigator of the Atlantic ocean. In order to render this subject more easily understood, I shall present the names of the several winds in Latin, slieltering the attempt under respectable authority. They shall however be ac- companied with the familiar synonymes in use among nautical men. The ancients denominated the winds known to them, not according to their force, which should natu- rally Indicate a proper classification, but with refe- rence to some local circumstance, such as blowing from a distant country, or some of the cardinal points. The present arrangement applies to the relative for- >.l VOYAGE OUTWARD. 23 ■J!;i >ng ces of the several winds, by which means it becomes easy of universal application. r propose therefore to enumerate sv n genera; liie tirst five, with their species, being arranged with respect to their several velocities; the last two, with a reference to their peculiar ellccts. As to the accuracy of the Latin names, I may presume that it rests on classic ground. Ovid, in the tragic tale of Procris,* has given authority for using the term expressive of the first genus ; and the prince of Latin verse has, with the exception of the last, sanctioned all the rest by his adoption. Dr. Franklin has, in his peculiar grandeur of sim- ple o])servation, noted the progress of hurricane to be at the rate of 100 miles per hour. On this plain scale, the comparative velocities of the other winds are cal- culated (reference being specially had, wherever their forces could be ascertained, with regard to the motion of a ship's way) under their influence, severally. It is matter of regret that circumstances did not allow ine to check this calculation by an anemometer. Subjoined to the foregoing is a table giving a view of a ship, according to her trim or canvass, in each wind, and her knots under the influence of each. Tiiis chiefly refers to a whale ship, but may be applicable to other vessels. The table includes the elfects of wind favourable, or the contrarv. lev Its. a VOVAtJL 0UT\VAK1>. . I WINDS. ftiuil'u'ul Naini'> (icii. Air, Breeze, litil LiRht, Lii,'ht, rrrsh, roiiir, St J'rnsl Hnrii; Tetnnpst, llmricaiip, VVIiirlwiml, •'iiiiooiii, Kalf 111' KiKiK \vr lloiir. 7 to 8 y 10 iitul iriorp lt> anil much morf 10 til 12 and iiiui'u IJiiknowii Ditto Ditto Ditto Lntiii N'aiiK'.i. Vi'liirilv Hour. ixr Ocn. /-•■phy riis, 't'litnsi, binrans, l.i'iiis, Vdh, Aliens, (".■U'r, ItapiiliiH, \ t'lii'iiirns, TiMnpestas, Riiciis, Jlieins, fliipiftis, rroc(>il», (Jyriins, ^iinouinii, Sulliicitiis. <> miles 10 tlitto l.'> ijitlu i*0 (liltd 25 ditto tV, ditto 4r, ditti. 75 ditto 100 ditto l.'iiiout the Orkney Islands. The general appearance of those islands is that of low, flat, rounded hills, with the exception of the western side of Hoy and Pomona, which present a bold rocky front of sand-stone to the ocean. The stratifi- cation seldom departs from iiorizontally ; in many pla- ces consisting of large flags lying loosely over each other. The soil is poor, and yields little corn; the inhahitanls subsisting chiefly on fish. Latterly the straw plait manufacture being introduced, employs the younger girls : this is chiefly at Stromness, which is the usual rendezvous of ships proceeding totlie west- ward, or to the fisheries. Kirkwall, the chief town, is respectable, and is remarkable for its flne cathedral. Though scarcely a shrub is to be seen on Pomona ; it is said to have been once well wooded, and trunks of large trees are often dug up. On the I7th of April,* after being about six weeks at sea, on making a tack towards land, I had a distinct * JOURNAL. Thursday, March 13 : thermometer 42°, 43*, 42° : wind W. S, W., strong breeze : under shelter of Duncansbay Head : a de- tached high vork of reJ-brown sandstone, al»out 100 yards from the shore, is called Johnny Groat's Castle : this day clear and dry : squalls eddying along the sea. March 14 : ther. 4G', 47°, 40° : wind N. W., almost a calm : sky clear and delightfully serene : Stromness in sight. -March 15: ther. 41°, 44°, 4f2° : wind S., light breeze : cir- ;»^B^*f ■" 4 ---»»* 2G VOYAliU 01 TVVAFU*. I • ^ view of West Greenland. A most dreary ;\|»|)«'iir« ance charnrtcrizos this part of that country. Some small islands lay alonj; the coast, between which were imbedded l)t:ri;s ol' out-toppinj^ hci»;ht, and in their peaks and prominences mimicking the forms of land. In the intervals of snow, the dark 'M \h rtis chatii;in^ into cirrociiuiiiliis, riiTOslrntiis : wciillicr line : tin chorcd iit tlie back of Hip lloliiii, -.i Hal island, at Stromnoss. March 10 : thct U! = . l.",-, Kr : win«l S S. VV., liirlit broo/c : cirrostratus in lonij; dark beds in llic weslward, tiii;;ed red with the rays of the setting; sun. March 17 : ther. 12°, 15', Ui" : wind W., fresh broo/e ; stratus all around, probably from the ocean spray, cirrostratiis radiatini? from the S. W. March 18 : ther. 47°, 15*, 10= : wind S VV. fresh breo/.e : sctjd at a great elevation. The wind of this day had been indicat' cd by the cirrostratns radiation of the procedinaj : the reader is requested to bear this circumstance in recollection : partial cir- rocuraulus. March 19: ther. 31 = , 25% .'30= : wind W. S. W., stronj; breeze : cirrostratns drifting with sleet and snow in the even- U'-' % March 20 : ther. 24°, 30', 25= : wind N. N. E., hard gale : nimbus discharging large hail and snow. The thermometer, af- ter the first observation, rose to ;iO = , and on the approach of the nimbus, suddenly fell to 25 = , and there remained. March 21 : ther 27 = , 4G = , 26= : wind N. E., light breeze ; cirrostratns : cumulus : nimbus occupying half the welkin in N. W. and discharging hail : land covered with snow : weather be- came unusually fine : during the night an excellent exhibition of cirrus traversing the sky, pointing from E. and S. E. towards W. and N. W. : this evening put to sea. March 22: ther. 34 = , 36', 33= : wind S. W. by W., light breeze : scud, drifting from N. E. : wind increased to strong >>recze : a strong swell of the ocean from W. N. W. Si « f V()Y\(iE OlTWMin. !27 lock put forth its wriuklod brow, the dip of (issuro f.ppeuriiis^ about fifteen degrees. The mountains in tbe distance exiiibited iii_i;l» sliarp peaks, and to the rye of a stranger they appear tlie most dismal and < liillinsr siuht in nature. This K^nd is north of Joris Hi' V? and is sekhjm seen. March 2;J : tlior. .'U;* tliroiiirhout : wind W. N. W., Htrona, l)roc>/o : u'imi of tliis day was indicated by tho cirru.s of the '21»t : various l)odi«'s of cirrostratiis, discliari^ini; «l«ct and hail at tiinos : nca ronlji.iies ninniny; very hijfli i'loin tlic W. M. W. March ',M : thcr ;5G', ;il% 2U- : wind W. N. W., hard e;ale ; laokcn nindnis, dischari^in'^ snow and ?leet with great violence ; ^^ea very liid away. Immediately after, from the westward lliero slowly extended upwards to the zenith ijur faintly marked radii, which diverged as they ascended ; two, more approximating to each other and nearly of etpial breadth throughout. One only remained, stretch- ing in a magnificent arch over the zenith, embracing the horizon K. and \V., and of a splendour exceedingly faint : it might, on hasty observation, be supposed a cirrus. The reader is requested to bear this in mind, as it will be necessary to refer to this phe- nomenon hereafter. March .00: ther. 35". 3C", 35'^ : wind N. W., fresh breeze, increasing to a gale : cumulostratiis, successively advancing with the wind, becoming nimbus in its angry progress, and regularly discharging hail with intensity of cold. In this immense biisin (the Atlantic) the effects of wind this day have been commensurate to the grandest elevation of wave. The firmness of the vessel giving all the security of land observation, I looked on this terrible scene with awful delight. At 9i p. m. the coruscations appeared again from N. W. ; and in the midst of the stunning hurly, I could not resist noticing their activity. Imagination would say, that truly the ppirit of the storm was abroad in all his majesty. The account of the lights, immediately noted, may be of interest to some of my readers. Assuming, as before, an archwise coruscation, but instead of the illucescent radii playing from a horizontal base as formerly observed, the basial line of these coruscations ass; nr\ed an angle from the horizon of about fifty degrees. Tongues of brassy hue. in i iL 30 VOYAGE OUTWARD. gree of reality the fable of tlie Centaur; particularly when these poor people are seen ll\ing along, each in his flimsy bark, with a short paddle alternately pressed along the thing in which he securely sits, re- gardless of wave or wind. The jacket they wear is lashed so as to prevent the admission of water, i ' at considerable intervals ors^pacc, and bending to S. W., touched their ethereal base uilli lambent playfulness, then, twining in spiral convolution, shot rapidly upwards, and spent themselves in the more elevated regions of the atmosphere. March 31 : ther. 42^^, 4 r, 40° : wind 8. by W., strong gale : scud flying furiously along : in the course of this day the weather has been highly variable, and sometimes rain : the change of wind was pre-indicatcd by the aurora of the pre- ceding. April 1 : ther. aS** throughout : wind W. N. W., hard gale : sky uniformly overcast with cirrostratus : the gale increasing in fury, the sea rose literally mountain high : procellaria glacialis : moon in halo of vivid brightness. wind W. N. W., hard gale : 34' 3G' cloud beginning to break procellaria gla- April 2 : ther. storm unabated : cialis. April 3 : ther. 42", 44°, 40" : wind S.W., strong gale : overcast cirrostratus : less dense, long, dark beds of the same, sometimes seen through, moving slowly from S. E. : sun very dimly seen ia corona: some rain fell : sea higher, if possible, than yesterday : the zenith clearing a little in the ailernoon, admitted a view of linear, co'iioid, and undulate cirrus, pointing south of east : cloud becoming cumulescent.* "" Tills iii^'.it, as tliP clouds ol the cin'ooiiinuUis iortn diifted along, a Miniiar radiation to (hut noticed in Journal 2Wh iilt. occurred. A stream of the electric lluid, coming I'roni S. E., di'^solved tlie rirrocumuUis in its {irogrcs'i, and left it behind as a sph^idid white arch extending across the sky. The cirrus of tiii.- aflirnoon visibly pointed towards the (juailcr w hence tUc vu- ciintioH snbscijuently came. VOYAGE OlfTWARI). 31 whilst all is snt. ;• within. Their fishins; tackle and darts are so placed as to be constantly within reach, and safe from accident, by a simple fastening of thongs. Every thing was exceedingly neat : their outer dress is water proof. The appearance of the land to the southward of April 4 : thcr. 4'^ , 34% 32' : wind W. S. W., fresh gii\c : the «lorm begins to abate : pl-'o. otlier clouds, occiipyini,' a very siivill sj^'sce. Tliis wontliPi- gall is divuded by seamen, as a severe wiml generally comic- from ilie place where il up])' ar^ For distinction sake, I bey to refer to Ide colour of (iiis cloud for the expression " stormy blue.' " The P. trlacialis is a sure guide to the wliule hunters. I % 34 VOYAGE OUTWARD. pearance of a plain, not even an inch, presented itsell" in an extent of coast of more than fifty miles this day ; and as far as the sight could ascertain from the highest point of observation, the land inward seemed to be uniformly of the same conformation, but the mountains appeared much higher. From the depth of snow -s April 21: ther. 10°, 12=', n\ 11°: wind N. by E., light breeze, westing towards evening, and nearly calm : cirros- tratus illuminated by sun-light : the ice blink in the horizon in- dicates the presence of ice leagues in extent : a seal, killed this day on a piece of ice, was there flayed by the sailors, body left behind : larus eburneus in numbers, and a few of proccUariH gulosa. April 22: ther. 16°, 21°, 20°: wind variable from N. : over- cast with cirrostratus : sea level as a lake : iceblink: temperature of air much increased : mild, with cirrostratus variously illuminat- ed, having a rich yellow lustre where it meets the reflected light from the ice : vast numbers of larus eburneus, and P. glacialis fol- lowing the ship : a pair of the phoca Grccnlandica killed : moon for the first time seen since the change, and surrounded by a broad, somewhat ovate corona. April 23 : ther. 21°, 2G°, 29° : wind N. E,, fresh breeze : cu- mulus in lo^»g train, with bases pointing southward : cirrostratus in distance accumulated to the sight as if cumulostratus, but is not such : in the course of the forenoon sailed amongst several streams of ice ; tKis sea is tailed by the whalers " the South West Coun- try :" phoca vitulina, one ; P. hispida, two ; and P. maculata, one, killed on the ice •. in afternoon, some slight nimbus having formed, some snow fell : wn-1 in E. by S. increased to a gale in the night, and after midnight fell V) a calm. April 24: ther. 34°, 49°, 33°: wind S., strong breeze: at- mosphere filled with light milkj haze : patches of brown cirrostra- tus ; this sea lies east of the entraioce to Hudson's Bay : a heavy swell from the S. E. April 25 : ther. 33', descending to I9f : wind N. N. E., strong ^' VOYAGE OUTWARD. 35 with which those rocks seemed to be covered, the late winter must have been very severe. Queen Anne's Cape is an island advancing very forward, and forms a common wing to two fine adjacent bays. The land northward of this Cape is not nearly so elevated as that above mentioned. gale : snow falling thick, light and soft : fiicus palmatus drifted past ; many birds around : three small islands seen, and rocks over which the sea broke with fury : the fucus warred the people of this danger : the atmosphere so dense with cloud as to prevent a view of land : at noon an obseivatiou being taken lat. 64'^ 24' N. proved the islands seen to be to the northward of Baal's River mouth, a most dangerous coast, as a great indraught is known about the entrance to that river, and against which mariners are constantly cautioned :* the islands seen lay N. E. of the sunken rock ; the snow fell in increased quantity, and of singular shape, thin, pellucid, icy; generally from a centre, ■■■■ six radii extend themselves ; the adjoined is an accurate E^^ April 26 : ther. 18°, 20°, 23° : wind N. N. E., light breeze : rirrostratus in loose masses : many species of larus : a shoal of baltrna physalus passed in view ; some of very great length : after- noon remarkably fine : land at Baal's River seen : very lofty peaked summits covered with snow : lat. by observation 64° 14' N. April 27 : thcr. 23°, 30°, 28° : wind N. E., fresh breeze : the wind unfavourable for a passage : the high snowy peaks of Green- land in view about forty miles distant : beautiful undulate and comoid cirrus in the zenith : cirrostratus lower, and cumulus in the horizon scattered amongst a milky stratus : cumulostratus in N. W. indicates wind : cirrostratus lying far below the lofty summits of the mountains : water lying on the ship's deck ^iJ * It is thought the " London)" a whale ship, was lost somewhere about this dreadful coast. if ?*" ./? A I ^ ■ 36 VOYAGE OLTWAKP. On tlie 6tli oC May we ])asse(l Keel" Koll at one p. m. The latitude of this island seems not to be accurately laid down upon the chart, which is serious, as it is the great beacon for the whale ships going to the northward. The upper strata of the rock of Reef Koll bear the appearance of basalt deep- and no appearance of freezing : colynibiis troile seen : lat. ob. 64°23'N. April 28 : ther. 27^, ?.0', 27°, winil N. by W , light breeze ; various modifications of cirrostratus, heavy, still, and dark ; land distant ten leagues, and some i.slands with low conic tops. The settin;^ sun flung his radii from an abrupt collection of cirrostratus, the field beins: richest yellow : cumulus mclininjx the sununit to N. E. : moon surrounded with halo : some porUons of iridescence visible : trichecus ronmarus seen ; hit. Gl^ -ll'. April 29 : ther. 27" throu;i;hout ; wind M. E., strong breeze : cirrostratus overcast, (lischarj;;iug small soft snow : colymbus troile and anas mollisiinm numerous. April 30 : ther. lO"^, 22^, 10'' : wind variable about N. : strong tide stream : loose ice much worn ; cirrostratus : lat. observed 6r 44' N. May 1 : ther. 26°, 28°, 2G" : wind S. E., light breeze ; dif- fuse cirrostratus covers the welkin : ice blink is observable to- wards N. W. : air temperate and pleasant: numerous trains of colymbus troile: some snow: the ai..iosphere having cleared, the land to the southward of Cape Monkchese came iii view : there was a constant view of the land all this day ; at 8 p. m. passed Queen Anne's Cape : meridian observation gave lat. GO* 5G' N. Sheets of ice, of recent congciation, lay around the ship in her course during this afternoon, composed of pieces six or eight inches over, nearly circular, the interstices being filled up with similar small ones : the wind always fell as the ship came up with those sheets. May 2: ther. 19°, 22°, 10= : wind N. E., strong breeze; this wind being contrary, the ship continued tacking off and on bo- ■% "^X ft'. VOVAC.E OtJTWAUD. 37 ly tinged uitli iron : lower down it deepens to s^reen- isli blue, with an irregularity, but sliai-pnes.s of frac- ture, like that of the rock, clink basalt, on which stands the castle of Edinburgh. The island of Disko, called by the natives Duskee, is visible from Reef Koll. At a distance of twenty miles it seemed not far remote. It is table land, the fore the land just N, of (,|iiooii Anne's Caj)e : tlio cold intense : vast streams of ice sometimes in sit^lit : since noon the woidher became excessively cloudy : sea, rudely Ingli, covered the deck witli foam, which imnicdiatoly became ice, to the threat annoyance of the sailors : wind at times violent : masses of ice covering tlie sea ; tlie pieces of young ice mucli more minute than those ob- served the preceding; day : a few of P. glacialis seen. May 3 : ther. 15 = 1 <' ■ 1 1.) If)' : wind N. E., fresh breeze in- creasin*^ : shij) standinsr oil" and on by land : the dip of the rock hereabouts seems to he about an ansi'lo of GO* N. and S. : no birds seen : in the latter pari, continual snow shower, with sharpest cold : the wind continued in the same j»oint a strong gale all the day : lat, obs. GG^ 38' North. May 4 : ther. 10% 12 = , 13= : wind N. E., strong breeze : the cold increased this day to a distressing degree. The Wild Islands, with numerous rocks near them, both not far distant from the coast, came into view : the fracture of the rock appeared very sharp : the colour and smoothness near the water gave it a re- semblance to greenstone : numerous flocks of the anas mollissima, colymbus troile, and of the genus larns around in every direction : much scattered ice : the atmosphere generally very clear. May 5 : ther. 10=, 22*, 18° : wind S. E., fresh i)reeze : ship standing in close with the land, which no longer presented the an- gular prominences of the lands more to the southward : this lies low with rounded summits, but no appearance of plain : after passing through streams of ice, and by bergs of the most fantastic forms, the ship was made fast to a berg, at a short distance from the shore, in about ten fathoms water : saw this day a solitary ra- y /■ iU VOYAOE OUTWARD. interior parts more elevated than the southern side, and scarcely swells above a plane. On the 7th of May, every part, but the steep faces of the rock, was covered with snow, which also lay upon the debris of the mountain : the parts however next the water were bare of snow. From the great distance at which it first becomes visible above the horzon, this island must be more than a mile in perpendicular height. The face of the rock is torn in channels for the dis- charge of the dissolved snow, which, as they grow narrower in their descent, give the spaces between the appearance of si'.ipendous pyramids, a resem- blance which is much heightened by the stratification exhibiting horizontal and parallel fissure, similar to regular building. The rock is basaltic, but not of that regular form which occurs in the Giants' Cause- ven, great numbers of Eider ducks, and some seals ; the latter being remarkably cautious of observation : tiie state of cloud was uniformly haze : the tide here is amazingly rapid : islands around ; these are the Wild Islands. May 6 : ther. 17 = , 36', 21= : wind S., fresh breeze : ship cast oft' from the berg, and proceeding to the northward : sounding near the land ten fathoms : twenty-one ships in sight : this day heard of the melancholy loss of the London with all her crew ; a light stratus is the only cloud in view : atmosphere agreeably mild : immense flocks of ducks on wing ; hereabouts is their fa< vourite haunt for rearing their young. About 8 p. m. passed the western islands, which lie low and very flat, much inhabited by the natives : Disko in sight, appearing high above the horizon : saw flocks of colymbus g-ylle, also a raven : immense numbers of pro- eellaria glacialis making rapid flight to the north-westward. May 7 : ther. 25', 30% 25' : wind S. E., strong breeze. ■7' VOYAGE OUTWARD. 39 way. Its height is sixty feet. Tlierc are parts however where the stratification is much more regular. Tliese remarks chiefly regard the south side about Fortune Bay, which seems to he that part of this island whicli has been least allected by that awful convulsion which at some remote period denudated and destroyed this [mrtion of the globe. Probably the ruin that came upon these countries moved, in its terrible projrrcss, from tlie north-westward ; and, having forced a passage through the Waygat Strait, swept round through the southeast bay, and so spared Disko. In support of such conjecture, it may be ad- vanced, that Hare Island, lying nearly north of Disko, ft the entrance to Wavffat Sound, is low and flat, as it were the base of a mountain whose summit had been torn away. Tiie contiguous point of Disko shelves into the sea, as if havina; suffered from the same cause : whilst that side of Disko that overlooks the Waygat consists of lofty peaks, behind which there lie deep valleys, where the torrent rioted, having failed to carry away the more elevated parts. More- over, that part of Disko called Flat Foot Shore, which lies over against Makkely Onit, has evidently sulfered durinsc the same devastation. Neither would that portion of the island called New and Old Lievely have survived the wreck, were it not for the strong- resistance made by that part which is known by the name of the Black Land. The rock of Lievely, now so dangerous to navigators, which is bare at low water spring tides, and which is nothing but the re- mains of some part of the mountain, is a further proof of the justice of the above assertion. The existence y \\\ n A ir^ 10 \OV\a), Portmio V>;)\, Love Hay, and tlu; other recesses iti the hosoin oCthis remarkaMe rock, owe tlieir existence to the violence of the Hood which, boihnt;' uttht; resistance opposed to it on the nortli side, rushed over tlie hif^her lands to the southward, and there poiuinc; onward, in its ra<;e hollowed out those seveial hiiys, and mectin;:;- with tjjc other contciidiMi;- currents coin- in;^ thronj^h the Waygat, and down the Straits, com- pleted the work of destruction, and cdlbctcd the forma- tion ofSoutli East Bav. \i r J f i 148 41 Ma I CHAPTER II. OF THE STATE OF GREENLAND, AS INSULAR, OR CONTINENTAL. I I V 151 M i 03 Having conducted the reader thus far along this dreary coast, and this part of the subject being ap- propriate to our purpose, I shall here beg leave to take into consideration the actual state of the coun- tries called Greenland ; chiefly with a view to inquire whether that state be insular or continental. Spitzbergen, or New or East Greenland, has been already determined by Lord Mulgrave to be an island. So far the necessity is removed of alluding further to that portion of these lands. The whale fisheries, as they are called, when spoken of as the Greenland fisheries, are always carried on to the westward of Spitzbergen, and usually so that the vessels in that trade often have a view of some part of that island ia the course of the season. Westward of the fishing ground, the perpetual ice presents an insurmountable barrier to any attempt to explore the eastern coast of West or Old Greenland above a certain degree, vthere Herjolf's Ness, in the sixty-third degree, forms a bold round promontory. It is not recorded that any na- vigator has penetrated further north than this point on the eastern side, though some charts exhibit inlets bearing Dutch or Danish names somewhat higher up. We mav, therefore, fairly assume it as a fact, that 6 1 ya ., i 42 STATE OF GREENLAND, Greenland on the eastern side from Herjolfs Ness to the pole is decidedly unexplored, and the reports of experienced seamen arc positive in expressing the im- possibility of coming within many degrees of the sup- posed line of coast from the continual presence of ice; and that the ice which is carried to the southward from the Greenland fishing grounds is always limited to a certain meridian, westward of which it has been never known to break up. Eastward of this parallel they have at times penetrated beyond the eighty- fourth degree. South and westward of Herjoirs Ness is Skaga- fiord, a sound, the termination of which was never as- certained; but from its apparent direction, it is thought to have a communication with Makkely Onit in South- East Bay, at Disko. Between Herjolf's Ness and Staten Hook there were many more inlets inhabited in former times. Whether these inlets may not have a leading into the preceding communication, must not be looked upon as at variance with probability. No one now will doubt that Frobisher's Straits penetrate the whole of southern Greenland, or rather open into some vast internal sea, whence the ice is annually carried westward, so as to obstruct the en- trance to those parts from the aide of Hudson's Bay. Staten Hook, also the most southern extremity of Greenland, and Cape Farewell, the south-western ex- tremity, have been both determined to be islands, be- tween which there lies an immense bay, crowded with islands. The bottom of this, never having been yd ^ . I J^ ' li AS INSULAR, OR CONTINENTAL. 43 /^ explored, may be supposed to have many inlets branch- ing into Frobisher's Straits. Let us turn our attention to Baal's River, which is rather a gulf penetrating Greenland to the N. E. The extremity of this water lias not been as yet laid down. It is supposed to extend to Disko by some inlet lead- ing into South-East Bay. In its length it is impossi- ble to deny but it may have communication with Skaga- fiord, and the inland waters in Frobisher's Straits. Whether South Bay is connected with Baal's River is not easy to assert, as there is no datum for such an assertion. Makkely Onit in South-East Bay has been always allowed as running into a water, which, if (rec from ice, would j ermit a passage into the northern Atlantic. North of Makkely Onit are numerous passages opening into internal seas in the northern parts of Greenland, sonie of which have been penetrated by the boats of the whale hunters, the men of which, on their return, invariably reported that they had ob- served fair, open seas before them after they had gone a very little way. In Jacob's Bay there is one very remarkable pas- sage of similar description ; so also one, if not more, in North-East Bay; and proceeding further north, the numerous sounds up to the Women's Islands and forward to the Devil's Thumb, an isolated natural column, in 74" ,^)3' north latitude, various openings present themselves, which, no doubt, lead to so ujany ways of traversing this Arctic Archipelago. A few circumstances more will materially assist in this inquiry. The whale hunters are unanimously of \ » ,i --*.%**.. .'-'iL. 4 44 STATU OF GREENLAND. opinion that Greenland consists entirely of islands ; " for," say they, " wherever chance or inclination led us, on almost any part of the coast, we saw nothing to prevent us from sailing as far inwards as we liked." The habits of the whale, who is observed always run- ning for some one or other of those passages, and some, when stricken, dragging the boats so far that the people witnessed open clear water to a boundless extent, are in a great degree confirmatory evidence of the fact. But one circumstance, not the least curious in natural history, is, that a whale, struck by a man at Greenland, i. e. at Spitzbergen, escaped, and was in a short time after killed, and taken by a rela- tive of the same man, who was then at Davis's Straits. This curious fact was determined by the harpoon, bearing the mark of the former, being found in the body of the animal when taken. The north-east coast of Greenland, therefore, be- ing unexplored, and the probable intersection of its south-eastern, southern, western, and north-western parts, by navigable waters being adduced, besides the other circumstances, in aid, it may, I presume, be inferred, that the state of Greenland is not con- tinental but insular. But whether the research will be ever established by future proofs of more de- cisive character, or whether any circumstances will warrant the hazard, must be left for time to de- termine. f 4;> 1 *i ■■ i CHAPTER III. 1) OF THE NATIVES OF GREENLAND. The descr'- 'an of savage life Is nearly alike appli- cable aim' every portion c ' i, nkind placed below a certain degree of refinement. The necessary moans to prolong life are so varied by chance, convenience, or choice, in different nations, that what is familiarly called comfort becomes invested with a thousand meanings when used as descriptive of comparative happiness. The poor Greenlander, feasting on his raw food, is as truly happy in such luxury as the citizen of a more indulgent climate who is uneasy in his armed chair until he has the delight of gloting over his pudding, a severith dish at his usual dinner. In the humble, yet happy, people that are found iii the high northern latitudes, and are generally known by the name of the Esquimcaux, more of that spirit of contentment, which is the genuine offspiing of neces- sity, is discernible than probably in any other class of mankind whatsoever. It is not the material of satiety that constitutes what is generally estimated as domestic comfort. So far as the mere necessaries of life are considered in relation to this, the Palais Royal is perhaps as scanty as the hut of the Esquimeaux. The Tartar who be- strides his dinner, which, to save time and cookery, is ' I ii 1 1 u 40 NATIVES OF GUi:CNL.\M>. placed within liis saddle skirts, looks to an enjoyment of relish equally fine to his taste as tlie double repast of turtle is to tlie Liverpo.' mcrcliant. Embrowned in his dreary retreat, the Greenlander feels no in- convenience, unless the accidental severity of the weather forbid his accustomed scal-!iUnting; ; and should tliis blcssinir, with th^ other casualties of his better fortimc, come opportunely and in plenty, it may be very truly asserted, that he envies not the lot of any fellow mortal. The influence of climate has been frequently re- ferred to as a source of those distinctions that mark the various tribes of mankind. No person in the pre- sent period will venture, one would suppose, to pro- duce another Adam as the progenitor from whom the coppery savage of America would claim a distinct descent, rather than attribute his singular complexion and warlike character to the influence of local cir- cumstances. The was • and hardships which liis forefatheis have known, ..nd the severe but necessary exertions to overcome those difficulties, must have produced strong and permanent constitutional effects, growing more into character by succeeding years, and on its transmission to posterity always increased. As an exposition of this principle, the diflferencc of man- ners already between the United States' American and his British predecessors, has become very strongly marked ; and little doubt can be entertained but that in the progress of several centuries the North Ameri- can colonist will be as remote in habits and general character from the European a& both at present stand in geographical situation. M "^l NATIVES OF r,Rr.F,NLAM». 1/ The vast population of the northern regions of the earth, has heen long a matter of surprise. The de- struction of the eastern empires, China, for instance, and that of Iiidia, from the irruption of tlic Tartar liordes, are memorable proofs of the population of the North having been in early times amazingly great. The ruin of the Roman empire followed from the same cause ; and, in a later period, the world lias witnessed the annihilation of one of the most warlike armies that ever was known, by the descendants of those very Tartars. There may be assumed a line embracing the globe to be considered as an equator of civilization, towards which, as mar. approximates, his faculties are ob- served to be more perfectly developed ; whilst on the other hand, receding from this etjuator, some of the higher and more beautiful portions of human charac- ter die away. Ancient Greece would appear to be traversed by this line. Here the finest specimens of man in full possession of his faculties, in refinement of manners, language, and the arts, have existed ; and if the moderns have surpassed the inhabitants of an- cient Greece in aught, they have had the lights of the ancients to direct them. The Divine wisdom dis- played in the New Testament is another splendid ,proof of the truth of the position above assumed. It appeared among mankind diffusing benevolence and peace to all the nations of the earth from a spot with- in the limits aid down. This line, however, is not always unbroken, but is subject to variations arising from localities, which must ever exercise a predominant influence over man- i). Hi ill n .¥ *• Hv. 18 VATIVKS or tlUKKNLAM). kind. VV c may also notice lliat it is not at variance with the genera! laws of nature that diirerences may arise subject to sucli inliuence. Tlie line by whicli ibe mariner's needle is directed to the north is not always steadily noted by the magnet. The variation of the compass, the irres^ular motions of the needle, sometimes in tlic vicinity of mountains, and often whcie the land is \ei'y little elevated, are evidence diat circumstances will cause a deviation from a uni- versally established rule. Perhajjs it is to some un- seen cause that the f^reat diversity of human charac- ter is to be attributed ; and some persons will insist that half the happiness of life depends upon that very diversity. Situation has a surprising elFect also on the human constitution and character. The inhabitant of the mountain differs essentially from the inhabitant of the plain ; their pursuits and passions are widely dif- ferent. The one is all energy, activity, and simpli- city ; the other comparatively gross, plodding, and inactive. The mountaineer, striding over his iiills, is loused to action by the gust that shakes the oak above his slumber ; a light meal fits him for the toils of hardy life; and in the quick ardent glance, and sinewy step, are evolved tliose energies derived to him from his situation, and which he fancies have descended to him from his sire. Rarely, however, is such a situation the nursery of science. It is in the champaign country that the historian will find the origin of all tliose arts by which modern society is now so much improved. The early dispersion of mankind could not have NATIVES OF GREENLAND. 49 i been attended with those remarkable effects all at once. Centuries must have passed before the various ramifications could drop into separate nations; and climate, situation, and habits must have exercised their powers long before national distinctions could be re- cognised. The tide of population descending into the more temperate regions, spread over the limits of Europe, and filled it with a race of men who were equally removed from the enervating softness of Asiatic climate, and the more severe and chilling in- fluence of frost. On this point rests the main dis- tinction. Heat, as has been before observed, when in excess, produces effects similar to those of excessive cold. Hence, as population is traced north or south from a certain assumed line, the high, august forehead, the erect figure, and calm majestic deportment, recede and dwindle. The African exhibits the organs of sense largely developed — patulous nostrils, large lips and mouth, prominent eyes — all proportionally in- creased; whilst, in the same degree, the internal organs of the mind become diminished, until the character is scarcely above that of idiocy. The so- cial affections are, under such circumstances, ex- tremely weak, and consequently the progress of civilization is visibly embarrassed. But as the cold of northern regions can be mitigated by artificial means, the situation of the Laplander or Samoeide is consequently less in extreme than that of the in- habitant of the torrid zone, who is perpetually ej^ posed to a burning sun. In the manners and tempers of both thero is a manifest distinction. Ferocious, 7 i !, ,1 •M •5f*"* ;/.■ '^ :>o NATIVES OF (JRF.KNLANU. vengeful, and rapacious, the African will allow no- thing to thwart his resistless passion ; whilst on the contrary the Arctic Tartar, hunible and simple, is content with his dreary wastes and precarious suh- bistcnce, seldom raising his mind to the attractions of revolution. The early discoverers of Greenland were surprised to meet with a people already in possession of those countries. They described them as diminutive in person, dressed in skins, and moving about in little boats covered also with skins. They are represent- ed as not having ships; and yet subsequent adven- turers from Europe met tribes of this same people both in Newfoundland and the waters north of that place, and also in Greenland. That this description exactly suits the natives of Greenland at the present day will not be disputed ; but it must appear singular, that a people confessedly aboriginal in those inhospitable regions, should, after a lapse of nearly two thousand years, be found the same in every respect at the present day, as they ap- peared to the first European voyagers. Charlevoix, a French historian of much accuracy, states their national appellation to be Esquimeaux, which is a word of their own language having a French termination. This writer explains the term as meaning " eaters of raw flesh ;" but to this inter- pretation some objections may be reasonably made. For instance, would any people be found desirous to stigmatize themselves with a nickname ? One only reply to this can appear satisfactory, which is, that they might give themselves such a name to mark the NATIVF.S OF c;nF.nNLANI>. 51 supcriorit), as they may conceive, of their own na- tion above every other, in their being able to partake of the fruits of their hunting on the spot, whilst the other must perish unless hoha\e the unnecessary luxury of cooking, 'i'he value of this observation, however, is much diminished, when it is known that the Grcen- lande:', thoutrh he can eat his food undressed, and generally does so, by no means woidd prefer that mode to the greater comfort of having his dinner in the European manner ; but he is, in a great degree, compelled to adopt the former custom of i.ecessity ; and the effects arising from cn; tom are well known to infu>?e themselves into the constitution, and produce what is generally denominated habii. KIlis relates a story of a youth who had been carried away duvn his native countrv. and, on his retiu'n, the sail« is navinir killed a seal, he eagerly seized a po"'-'on oi the rav flesh and ate it, expressing his deligh'. at finding a cir- cumstaiice which so stronjjjlv brought to mind his dear n itive co'intry. Tiu ifi( ;, however, is, that the national appellailion by which these people distinguish Jiemselves from others is not Esjuiineaux, as has been so long icceiv- ed, but is by themselves pronounced in (juite a diflei- ent manner. Were 1 to write it, as 1 observed it spoken by them, it shouU' be Uskceme ; (pronoimced according to our sounds cu ke-ma ;) and of this ap- pellation they are as proud as a native of this coimtry is of the name of Briton. Any person desirous of ob- taining their imtnet'iate attention and civility, should address them with the term Uskee, which never fails .ge with the Danes. The native Us- kees do not cordially associate with this mixed race, which they consider as degenerate. In complexion, they are generally of an olive-brown. Their forehead NATIVES OF GREENLAND. 55 and the sides of the head, above the temples, are greatly depressed ; the crown is elevated considera- bly ; and the back of the head is depressed, as the forehead. The smaller end of a hen's e^^s; presents a familiar resemblance to their cranium. Their eyes are usually small, but piercing, not brilliant; and the calm mild manner with which they contemplate a stranger gives a good idea of the power of their eye. Their vision is astonishingly strong, by means of which they can distinguish objects at an incredible distance. The snow glai*e affects their eyes very much, which are often observed to be inflamed. — Against this inconvenience, they have many ingenious contrivances, in the manner of eye-shades, which are usually a piece of wood made to fit across the eyes, having two fine slits, and a pinhole in the centre of each to correspond to the centre of vision. Their cheek bones are high, which, with their rounded flab- by cheeks, renders the nose by no means a promi- nent feature. Their lips and mouth are generally large ; the former very much protruded. The lower part of their face altogether forms a strik- ing contrast to their narrow forehead, and is a chief distinguishing feature of this people. The women differ little from the men, except that they are not so tall. Their hands are remarkably fine, smai!, and neat. The same remark applies with regard to their feet. The dress of both sexes is nearly alike, the womeo being distinguished only by their jacket terminating )iece, before and behind, re jgi P un^ nearly to the knees. Nothing about the persons of the Uskee-mes is more remarkable than their hair. 'I, lU I, '( i ^f^^--. I *( JK.(>«,JMiwt— y r— 58 i\ AT IVES OF CIllEENLAND. be miicli at a loss to find a rcHidcncc on sucli a coast, whence the passage to Greenland was not difficult. The latter, however, must have been attended with much difficulty and danger. But that it has been effected is undoubtedly true, as the first European adventurers found them in possession of that country in the tenth century. So also about tliat perioil they were found as far south as Newfoundland. There must consequently have elapsed a great number of years before they could have advanced so far south- ward ; and, of course, their emigration must have commenced at a period previous to the Christian era. In the course of their wanderings, coming in contact with other tribes, who from causes, not necessary to form a part of this inquiry, had already spread over other parts of the American continent, and being of peaceful and very unwarlike habits, they were unlit to associate with their new neighbours. The conse- quence was, that the red Indians, as they are termed, wlio lived entirely by the chase, usually attributed to their timid neighbours every unfavourable change of weather that interfered with their hunting. Hence arose wars, which to the present day are continued with undiminished asperity. The appearance too of the Uskee, clad in his skins, his head wrapped in a hood, and his whole figure lowly, and little expressive of warlike character, was remarkably contrasted with the tall, graceful figure of the red man, accustomed to warfare, and impatient of intrusion. The Uskees, in self-defence, must have learned also how to fight, and doubtless retaliated with devastating effect, having always a sure retreat in their boats. NATIVES OF GREENLAND. 69 This disposition the early settlers from Norway found to their cost, when they provoked them to vengeance in Greenland, and were in consequence extirpated. Neither did a subsequent visit from the Europeans tend to diminish the rancour arising from unprovoked in- jury. For, in the year 1605, Christian IV. of Den- mark having sent out Admiral Lindenow with a small fleet, under the guidance of John Knight, an English mariner, in search of Old Greenland, " they seized four wild men, and were obliged to kill one of them to render the others tractable ;" a most extraordinary specimen truly of European refinement. In the settlement of Newfoundland and Canada by the English and French, those Uskees who had ven- tured so far south, and had been there established for centuries, finding the strangers determined on retain- ing possession of Uie country, unanimouwly resolved to abandon those shores, which they accordingly did ; and have since fixed their abode in the northern parts of Hudson's Bay, and among the lakes and seas in the northern parts of North America, where they now re- main unmolested, except by some of their warlike neighbours from the southward and westward. Mr. Ellis states that the severity of the cold beyond the sixty-first degree causes the trees to dwindle into brushwood, and that none of the human species ap- peared beyond the sixty-seventh degree, inferring that human life could not sustain the cold beyond that degree. This applies, in Mr. Ellis's account, to the natives around the bottom of Hudson's Bay ; biit the shores northward and north-westward of that degree remain to be satisfactorily explored ; in which event i /; \i k i ,.*f T 60 NATIVES OP GREENLAND. t4:i it will certainly be found that Uskees inhabit coun- tries of much liigher latitudes than the sixty-seventh. On the Greenland side of Davis's Straits it was sup- posed that no natives existed beyond the sixty-fourth degree; but subsequent research found them nume- rous along the coast as far as Disko. Here discovery seemed to terminate; but not long after, other navi- gators met with a population sprinkled over the low islands up to the seventy-third degree, where the voyagers saw many women in boats, and traded with them for seal skins, and unicorns' horns. It is a posi- tive fact, moreover, that they have been met with at the Devil's Thumb, in the seventy-fifth degree nearly, provided with muskets, flow much further north they can be traced is doubtful; but that they can exist beyond the degree stated by Mr. Ellis is without question. Hence also arises a presumption that the cold in those high latitudes is not of such severity as to forbid living there through the winter, particularly if due precaution be observed. At Disko, or rather at Lievely, there is a Danish settlement, where a factor constantly resides, and lives veiy comfortably. The Danish government maintains a governor for the superintendence and management of their concerns in that quarter, who constantly re- sides there. Buffon hazarded an opinion that there was no ice at the pole, grounding his conjecture on the supposed warmth of the atmosphere in that place ; but this part of the subject shall be taken into consi- deration more fully, when we come to discuss the question of a north-west passage. The Danes, in re-establishing their claims to the NATIVES OF GREENLAND. 61 possession of Greenland, have done very little to- wards ameliorating the condition of the natives. Tiie natural disposition however of the Uskees, Gipsey- likc, makes them appear to conform to the manners and religion of their masters ; yet little doubt of their insincerity exists. It must be acknowledged that the conduct of many of the Danes sent thither, as it is said, for their crimes, is not well calculated to reconcile them to European sentiments. They are, if spoiled by such corrupt example, looked upon as untractable ; and a sensible writer, descanting on their unwilling- ness to become converter!, represents them as listening very attentively to Christian exhortation, and when asked if they understood all tiiat had been said to them, their answer was childishly affirmative, when it was evident they did not comprehend or retain a tittle of the subject. " They are such adepts in disguising or suppressing their passions, that one might take them for stoics in apjiearance." This short sentence shows very fully their calm and peaceful temper. They never interrupt any person when speaking ; and their reply is sensible and brief, and marked with the most respectful deference to the person they ad- dress, provided he commands their good opinion. It is when they do not esteem the man, that they are liable to the name of stoics in appearance. The Danish convicts and settlers have intermarried with the Uskee women, and a mixed generation is now remarkably predominant where the government has been fixed. Some of the children of the Euro- peans by the Uskee women are quite fair, but all have that remarkable attachment to their countrv which ■ 62 iVATIVKS OP GRKENLAND. the genuine natives evince. The youn£j man who airiused the people at Hull, Ix-ith, and in the Thames, with the exercise oihis kaiak was the son <»f a Dane, but his mother was a native of Greenlatul. It is said that the sister of that young man was so much grieved "t the thoughts of his going ("rom his dear home that she [)ined auay and died of grief. Such is their exces- sive attachment to tfieir countiy. In their intercourse with strangers, they arc at first shy and Cr utious, but linn in their nmnners. That reserve soon disappears when they are kindly treated, and they freely communicate tlieir knowledge of any thing asked them. Their experience extending but little beyond the arts befitting the necessary occupa- tions of tlicir own peculiar mode of life, makes their information of inconsiderable value when applied to the greater concerns of European commerce. They appear sensible of their deficiency in this respect : and when they give reply to the inquiries of the whale hunters, it is always frank but diffident. Any elFort to extend their experience beyond the contracted circle of their wants, is attended with such a train of imaginary difficulty, that (ew, if any of them have ever ventured out of the footsteps of their forefa- thers. The Uskee-me jacket, trowsers, boots, darts and canoe (for they use this name for a boat in- discriminately with kaiak) are identically the same as they have been observed more than 800 years ajTo. The great difficulty of obtaining from these people accurate information respecting the northern coun- tries, is a source of perpetual error and perplexity. NATIVES OF GREENLAND. 63 f Lookinfi; with a jealous eye on all strangers, and temj)to(J by the richness of some paltry present, but whicli appears in their eyes of much value, they have frequently shown a desire to communicate accounts of their country and its resources, greatly exagge- rated, in order to make their information on such subjects appear of the utmost importance to the people from whom such communications were known to bring superior advantairos to them. It is a pre- vailing trait in uncivilized ut'e, to desire strongly such things as come within the direct apprehension of par- ticular wants. This is signally exemplified in the African, who, dead to the calls of consanguinity, is anxious to decorate his graceful neck with a string of StatFordshire ware at the expense of a child ; and the wife of his bosom must often be a bit of barter, in order that the human beast may contemj)late his per- fections in a mirror, in her stead. The same pro- pensity exists in the humble Esquimeaux as in the African; but tlie desires of the former ary finely chastened by a reserve that seems almost peculiar to this people. The tie of consanguinity binds the arctic inhabitant too closely to be unfastened : it is a gordian knot of a texture too refined and complicated to be undone: it is genuine, unsophisticated nature, nursed in the continual presence of all that is dear to ex- istence, and which no temptation can destroy. There is not probably a nation on the earth more signalized for urbanity than are the inhabitants of Greenland. To witness the splendour of a London assembly, its luxuries, elegance and grandeur, and (were it possible) to turn the eye the next instant on ■T^ I.. f 1% ,»».,-_^- .a.- 01 NATIVES Ol' (JKEENLAND. i tlic little patriurcliiil circle in an Uskec Ixu',. Vnv com- mon minds would relish tlic comparison; ^l. lo anjr one accustonjed to rellcct, and to appreciate the hap- piness of mankind comparatively, on the scale of ne- cessary wants and wishes, the lot of the apparently wretched (ireeidander is I'li- liom heins:; miscrahle. In truth, had Euro|)eun hixorv and its allurements been witliiield, his state woidd Iiunc still I'emained in ahori:;inal simplicity and happiness ; and, it' any thou<:;ht arise to disturb his constitutional tian([uillity ol mind, it proceeds iVom a reilection that he wants somethiuL" liom the W i .. as se dt^os, as the pecfec- tion of human art. he pities uic ix^iorance of any one who is unable to maaage <; kaiak. or use (lie hand- lioard in discharging thv -pe'dv or lii^iiter dart. It is dangerous for a European to venture i ito one ol' those canoes, as he is almost certain of being instantiv upset, in which case tlie buoyancy of the little bark would certainly kecj) him itnmerji^d. and drown him. i ' Tl le seal, mischievous; in xhv extremr towards cverv 70 NATIVES OF GREENLAND. i .- creature weaker than himself, entertains a sovereign dread of the Uskee-nie, and (lies from every quarter where he discovers a kaiak ; but his precaution sel- dom avails. The instant a seal is seen by a Green- lander, he whispers " pussce" (seal) along the sur- face of the water to the nearest of his companions, who telegraphs the signal until all the boats are en- gaged in the chase, and it is. seldom possible for their prey to escape. The seal is impetuous in disposition, and, having once observed his pursucis, he dives re- peatedly, and in diilbrent directions, to confound them ; but becomes at length so short-winded by his hurry, that he cannot remain long out of sight; and as the Uskees are around in various points watchin'<- the favourable moment, one of them paddles silently in his rear, using the paddle with one hand, whilst with the other he is getting his tackle in order ; and, having advanced near enou2;li, for he is sure to mea-' sure the distance with accuracy, he flings his dart, and never fails to stiike. The seal, terrified and wounded, dives in the greatest Ihn ry ; but a float beinjj attached to the dnrt by a leatliern line, he is soon forced up again, and is shortly despatched. They are then careful to stanch the wounJs, to save as much of the blood as possible, and to distend the body, by blowing into the cellular part, as butchers sometimes are used to do, in order to make the body of the anima! buoyant, otherwise it would go to the bottom as soon as dead. Seal hunting, being their most profitable as well as most dangerous pursuit, is looked upon as the perfec- tion of manly achievement. It forms the burden oi' NATIVES OF GREENLAND. 71 praise to which every man aspires ; and it is chiefly tlirou2;Ii the Aime of having killed such a number of seals that any man can aim at pre-eminence. The unmarried women hsten with eagerness when such great exploits are recounted ; and a description of a beal hunt given, with proper emphasis and gesture, by the fortunate hunter, is sure to obtain general approba- tion. The ar)p!auhe which they bestow is not however clamorous, but tinctured with that decency and reserve for which they are remarkable. It is on such occasions that love matches usually are set on foot ; and the successful candidate (or the lady's hand must rely on the credit he has obtained by the number of seals he has taken. There is very great danger to the Greeniander in the seal hunt. Should tlie seal be little exhausted m the chase, he often tiiriis on his adversary, seizes on his kaiak, and with his sharp teeth pierces the flimsy cover, when no alternative remains to the poor Uskee but death, as his kaiak will sink and take him down. This must be certain ; as the others can offer no as- sistance, except to allow him to hold by the end of another boat, to the gi'cat risk of him who navigates it. Except in the cdi^e of a father and son, such ac- commodation is very rare, as e\cry man on such emer- gency naturally thinks of the value which his life is of to his own family. Much danger also is to be ap- prehended if the line get foul of the paddle, or arm, or even neck of the hunter, when the se.al dives so suddenly on being wounded. It is then that the Us- kee disj)lays his skill and expertness. If upset, he 'I'ljii iiiiimii **~mm i*i HW r .*A JaA ) 72 NATIVES OF GREENLAND. raises lumsclf again in his kaiak by a dexterous uia- nagement of his paddle. When assembled at a merry-making or at a mar- riage-feast, tlicy are cheerful and joyous in the high- est degree ; but none of that boisterous rejoicing, Avhich is considered the test of ejijoyment in other places, is here known. The dance is practised in h'vely and tolerably well-executed movement ; and some of the Danes havit)g introduced the fiddle amongst them, they contrive to make out a pleasing entertainment. The men talk over their exploits in seal hunting, at which the boys are always attentive and silent hearers. Sonietimes lijc sons is raised, when one who leads the chorus repeats a lirje, and this is immediately succeeded by all the rest join- ing in a short accomppniment of no porlicular mean- ing. They are extremely hospitable, particularly to any of their own nation who happen to pass near their abode, in removing from one place to another in search of seals. A bfotherly invitation is instantly given, and the utmost attention paid to the stranger, who freely imparts his experience of the season, and re- ceives in retiirn such information as he requires. It is this interchange of good oflices wiiicli makes them set so high a value on each other. The lanffupo-e of the Grecnianders or Uskee-mes is very gutturf L Like the Norwegians, they pronounce the letter r in the throat, ~,c> that it is not easy to dis- tinguish many of their tones. They pronounce their words with a'leat fluencv: and their accents seem to y»^f •.%<■: t :»^^:\:"'yr" «»-^^v?:. ^. "-^i^*^ n^uii\i\i!imr' - • - ~JIl i r ji: f i3i anmiiL . r^r - — : r r— jLia^Ttrm-mnmit -v"^'-"' ''■''"'' 'irjLli£^ -.^'^^ ^^,.^" llllll'" "•II* 4»i ^ 'V^^' ,,,,.,■•/■■■ " /,-■•■/ ,7V. '■•" / l.M V.ir'.'X.W. 7 ',/':' tt4"'2'2.Jit. ■» <»i4j!llfc ... ,.-•/•■'■" C=o \''*^* / .■III !■■': /://•.",!' If. 7 ',/'■'.■• « I"i2..i,.. *i'r ..i.U- ,-,''•■' „- ""• ^*'//^ :' '»/ /'h^ll'^/^///,/^• .//f,///, /y ^ /.., /,;.//,. // l»l -(- /;./ .".I'd!// ', /'A - ^""^^^ -^^^Ji'il, : : t; L:iiji.. ;i ii' i ii r — - r — 1. 1'mmanrrrrTT/TT" ■ M!II'IL'!JI1!UlJ_ inruuHi mil uiulzi i^'it ^/^ ^•l/s '/'hnm/r ^"^^_ o'^^^o .^"^ ^rt" "8^% 6 r> •siTii* ■'•■ /./ -.-..■^ I «^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ^ iii 1120 11-25 i 1.4 1.8 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation fe ^t 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 i 74 NATIVES OF GREENLAND. Picaninnee Child. A familiar diminutive generally applied. Ap Yes ; probably an imitation of ay- Na-me Absolute refusal. O-mu-as-a-wak . . Will you go on board the ship ? Kai-n-u-ka Affirmative reply to the former question. Maize-wak A ship. Nella-nuc-a-tuck . A watch. Apleet A gun. Apatik Gloves. Brumik Bread. Sucanuk The sun. Sucanungfi Greenland. Tu-tu A Deer. Tri-u-ni-ak A fox. The isatis of some wri- ters. Mikee Dog. Nannok Bear. Kazee Ice. Nuna Yonder. Maria Land. Puma Whale. Pusee Seal. Sovitch Knife. Canu Boat. Kaiak Boat. »r<^ ' to 7r> 0i^» CHAPTER IV. OF THE ARCTIC ICE. ■1 •; IS." The stores of ice met with in high northern latitudes have naturally given rise to an idea, that the farther north the navigator proceeds, the more obstruction has he reason to apprehend from the presence of that body. Recent observations, and the experience of many years, have helped to remove that delusion. Wherever an extensive sea or ocean to the northward has been met with, the less has ice been found to pre- vail, and it is only in confined waters, such as are bounded by approximate lands, that heavy or thick ice is seen. Experience has proved that the freezing takes place thus. In the shore of some island or large pro- montory, where the rock is present in great substance, if the wind be favourable to the change, the surface of the sea forms into small irregular cakes, generally hexagonal, interspersed with others of smaller size and similar form ;* and if the congelation continue, these soon coalesce, and form a surface very little di- versified ; and after some time the icy mass extends itself, mostly towards the wind, then blowing, thicken- * It is worthy of remark, that when a vessel sails in among this ice, as noticed in the Journal, the wind instantly falls nearly to a calm. in 'i m t^giumK uim t siir ' r r ^'ism-atm 7b ARCTIC ICE. ing and spreading thus, until, a time incredibly short, a field of ice is formed leagues in extent, perfectly flat and even. Snow afterwards falling gives this ice a firmer consistence ; and as any partial thaw of the snow may afterwards take place, the disf>oIved liquid, having no way of flowing off, lodges on the surface of the field, and congeals. By this process, in the course of the winter, all the inlets, straits, and narrow bays are chained together by a common tie. The first formation of the ice is called young ice. It sometimes happens that the winds or currents not coming to act on some portions of the field ice, which is the name of it when properly and extensively formed, the vast tract may remain stationary in the place where it was originally formed, and continue to increase in thickness for more than one winter, as has been known to happen in the Waygat Sound, so as to be of a depth of from five to ten fathoms, Avhen the tide or thaw has forced it from its lodgment. This ice is usually of saltish taste; but trial to that effect is mostly made upon pieces that have been rendered porous, or, as the sailors call them, rotten, from the increased temperature of the seawater. When one of these fields of ice appears in the hori- zon a peculiar brightness is observed to be reflected on the air ; and as there is generally present some vapour above the ice, the brightness is somewhat of a yellow tinge. A strong wind blowing over one of those fields of ice, which are usually, if not always covered with snow, the frozen snow is drifted along the clouds, and is peculiarly annoying, both from the increased cold and the sharpness of the particles. :V:: ' ARCTIC ICR. 77 ( ?» The sailors call those drifts the barbers, from the effects produced by them upon the face. Mr. Ellis represents this drift of snow in Hudson's Bay, coming with a northwesterly wind, excessively keen, as small as grains of sand. On the approach of spring, the winds, becoming violent, stir the sea \ery much, and this field ice then breaks up, and being carried forward, the pieces, crushing against each other, produce smaller ones, nntil the greater part is reduced to inconsiderable fragments; and these again, by the violence of suc- ceeding winds, and the tossing of the waves, are heaped rudely on each other, and form what seamen call a pack of ice. The pack afterwards separating, the force of current, or some point of land, perhaps, breaks the aggregation into a less extensive and scat- tered train, which is then called a stream of ice. The packed ice is most dangerous to ships; for, if a vessel have the misfortune to be involved in such a situation, and it come to blow severely, the whole weight of this body presses against her sides; and instances have been known wherein a ship so circumstanced has been crushed like an egg-shell : or should her timbers be able to resist the terrible force of these fragments, they will continue to pile over one nother like rocks, and finally either break or overwhelm the vessel by their weight. In such ca?e, all hands must quit her, and provide for their safety as well as they can. Another kind of ice remains for observation, in many respects differing from the former, and which has long engaged the attention of the naturalist; that is, the ice berg. From chemical experiments, it is well I If I 78 ARCTIC ICE. •? 1 known that the freezing process approximates to that of boiling in its elfects. The result in both is nearly alike. For instance, seawater boiled evaporates nearly free from the salts which it is known to contain in combination. If the vapour so raised be condensed, the quantity of water free from salt is nearly two thirds of the whole. Repeated distillations will make the product more pure; but this proportion rudely taken is tolerably near the truth. Now it is known also, by those who have had an opportunity of ascer- taining the fact, that about two thirds of the substance of the ice berg is fresh water. Ships going into the Greenland seas and Davis's Straits in pursuit of the whale, are accustomed to have on board only a sup- ply of water for the voyage out, as they are sure to have an abundance for consumption, both when on station there, and on return from the ice bergs, or, as they are called, islands of ice. Frequently on those immense masses, which are sometimes more than a mile in extent, there are found large lakes of fresh waters formed by the action of the sun upon their summits, and from the snow with which they are generally covered. On days, when the state of the atmosphere is favourable to evaporation, these bergs are capped with a little fog, like a mountain peak. Sometimes the evaporation is so great as to envelope the ice island altogether, and render it in- visible, at which time it is certain destruction for a ship to come to windward of it; for the tremendous chance is that she may come foul of it, a fate infinitely worse than were the vessel to encounter a rock. Unless a favourable wind, or the providential set of #» r^ ARCTIC ICE. 79 #. tide, aid in moving her from this formidable associate, the ship is in immediate danger of being buried be- neath the ruins of the icy mountain, which are con- stantly tumbhng from a height above the elevation of the mast, or the constant indraught against its sharp edges dashes her to pieces. In this awful emergency the men are active in taking to their boats without consideration of any thing but to save their lives. One half the vessels that are every year lost in the fisheries are owing to accidents of this kind, whence it is one of the great concerns of the watch upon deck to look out sharply for fear of falling in with an ice berg. The numerous opinions hitherto advanced on the origin of those stupendous masses of congelation, have been advanced by persons who never had an oppor- tunity of seeing the place whence they come. They are usually seen surrounded by field ice, when out at sea, that is, out of sight of land. They are also found frequently imbedded in field ice, near the land in the bays and fiords, (p. fiors, creeks,) where they are often grounded on the rocks. A ridge of submarine mountains, running across the straits from Reef KoU to the American land, is another theatre wherein they are arrested. I'he peaks beneath, at times sur- rounded with streams of ice, resemble an extensive city, with its towers, churches and monuments. North of Disko and of North-east Bay there is a deep recess, to the southward of Black Hook, where the tide stream forces in a vast number of ice islands, so much that the place is by seamen called Bergy Bay. Some ice bergs retain their situation a great length of time ^fo vf Mi 80 ARCTIC ICE. h;~ . tfl ill particular places, and arc recognised year after year by the whale hunters. It would be an endless task to enumerate the va- riety of their forms ; some peaked like a mountain ; others with high, flat, table summits ; and many with Gothic arches in them, frequently quite through, and of more than 100 feet in height. A violent wind often upsets such as become topheavy from the waves lessening their bulk below. One particular form of berg is most deserving of notice, and that is at present to be seen in Marshal's Bay, which lies to the north- \vard of the Frow, or Women's Islands. There are two remarkable ber^s of the description which sailors call ragged bergs. One of these is at least two miles in circumference, and its upper part is turreted with irregular square pillars at short intervals from each other, and with flat tops. These pillars have a ba- saltic shape in the llancy of an observer, and form the remarkable character of this kind of berg. The pil- lars are about thirty feet in height ; and the base on which they stand is at least 100 feet above the surface of the sea, and has the appearance of being rent from some larger mass with great violence. There are numerous other immense bergs in the same bay, but this is the most remarkable. Among the many names of respectable authority mentioned, as having offered an opinion with regard to the formation of the ice bergs, is that of Capt. Mid- dleton. He accounts for them by supposing them as originally formed in the inlets or firths of Greenland, whence they are carried by a deluge or land flood, which breaks them loose, and forces them into the \K(T1C ICE. 81 open soa, rather increasing than thniiiiishing in bulk, whore they continue floating about, until, alter a lapse of some liundreds of years, they finally become dis- solved between the fiftieth and fortieth degrees. Ca})t. Middleton further states that this deluge, or land Hood, occurs about a regular period of seven vears. Effede also asserts from his own knowledije, that the ice bergs are pieces of the ice mountains on the land, whence they are torn by land floods, and carried out to sea. Now, as to Capt. Middleton's opinion, the account of the periodical deluge will to some appear rather apocryphal ; and as to the bergs being formed in the inlets and firths, it is equally doubtful, as they are either forced into those situations by the stream of tide externally from north and north-west ; or are driven down from the internal seas in the northern parts of Greenland, into some of those numerous firths, or rather straits, where their enormous bulk frequently causes an obstruction to the current, until the waters increase to such power as to drive every thing before them. Capt. Middleton's second asser- tion also is not supported by fact, as these ice bergs are constantly moving southward r: be dissolved, are in continual diminution, and few of he immense num- bers annually seen are recognised in the succeeding years, the whole of those that pass the latitude oi" Reef Koll regularly undergoing dissolution. The opinion of Egede is probably accurate, so far as he has been an eyewitness. It is likely that the ice mountains which he saw, and which were stained brown by contact with rocks, induced him to conchide n I I .t ^< «2 Aiujiu; Id-. I Pil that tliry must have (k'scciulecl iVom hi^h sitimtiona oil tlie lantl. Tliis, however, niaj rather l)e explained by tliese bergs liaviiig received the brown tinge, by striking against rocks, or jutting points of land, in their passage into the sea. (Voni tlic original place in •which they had been formed. Mr. Ellis states, that no ice mountains were to be seen in Repulse Bay, which is in the bottom of Hudson's Bay. Had any of those gentlemen been so high as the seventy-seventh or seventy-eighth degree of latitude in Davis's Straits, they would have an easy means of accounting for this phenomenon. In the view of the extensive chain of islands (to which I have presumed to give the name of the Linna^an Isles) which stretch across the straits east and west, very nearly in a cir- cular curve, as far as the power of vision can ascer- tain, there lies an immense continent of ice, rising to- wards the pole, and towards the islands before men- tioned, descending like the regular declivity of the land mentioned by Bruce in the approach to the sour- ces of the Nile. In this descent innumerable chan- nels are visible, eaten away by the snow which is dis- solved annually under the presence of the sun. In some places it out-tops the islands, but leans upon them all ; and it is probably owing to this very chain of islands presenting an impenetrable barrier, that the descent of larger portions of the icy continent have not before now carried their chilling aspect into southern climates. There can be, therefore, in my humble opinion, no doubt on the subject as to the original situation of the ice bergs. During the presence of a perpetual sun, <..,/ .l:..:: ■4* ARC tic ic.r.. «;^ tlic iiilUiencc of tliat luminary is exorcised with ex- traordinary forte upon tlie icy continent, and causes those iinfnense niasses to l)e rent asunder from the continent, whence tliey are precipitated into the sea, and commence their progress to the southward. Car- ried thither hy the tide stream, and under the force of a strong- wind, they move along usually at the rate of two tnilcs an hour, sometimes impelling before them fields of ice whole leagues in extent. I have myself heard the reports of these terrible disruptions, and the noise was as loud as thunder. In their way to the southward these bergs break with similar report, and finally fall ijito small pieces, and form streams of ice, which the sailors distinguish by their glassy blue colour to contain fresh water, and from them often collect a quantity for supply. Many of the bergs are traversed by blue veins, which are chasms filled with congealed snow water. The ragged bergs so particularly noticed are good proof of what is above stated, as they are evidently a portion of the lower part of the continent, which had been channelled by the dissolved snow as stated. The columnar summits are nothing more than those parts which stood between the streams. Such as are aground, or have been so on rocks, are easily known by having a regular tide mark on them, and, for fear of latent danger, they are to be avoided. The ice bergs met in Hudson's Straits and Bays descend from the ice continent above the Linnaean Isles. Those met with in the Atlantic come from Spitzbergen. I' 'M} 1: 'I 5 5 I ■ I 'I / r'.. ( II APTKU \ Ai:< •I'll; /ooLo<;\. /|^ l^ir. -luijjt'cln ol zool(>;;y that laiiie uruler obbervatioH HI till' iiortlieni seas, parliculaily in Davis's Strait, wore pretty numerous. The muiii objeet of the voyage for which the ship had been sent out, being the pursuit of the whale, gave continual opportunities of traversing the latter sea in many directions, and consequently ol' seeing most of the animals, those especially of the larirer sorts, which are there to be met with. The favourable state of the season, moreover, and the pre- valence of north-easterly winds at an early part of the spring, produced unusually solvent eflects on the field ice, so that the increasing power of the sun's heat caused it to break up much sooner than had been known for many years before, by which means the ships had access to higher latitudes than they had been ever known to reach at any former period. The arrangement of such animals as I have seen is con- formable to the system of Linnasus, according to the last edition of his celebrated work by Gmelin. Trichechus llosmarus (the morse.) This clumsy and ferocious animal is rarely met with on the western shores of Greenland: his favourite haunts are on the side of Hudson's Bay, and the Island of Resolution. In the latter place they are seen in great numbers ; but being gregarious, and accustomed to come to each 4 -^>-- ^i!»**:* .^: ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 85 other's assistance when attacked, tliey are seldom hunted. Its tusks arc considered very vaUiable, being of firmer consistence, and a better and more perma- nent white than ivory. Tlie oil of the morse is much esteemed for its purity. The hide is convertible to many useful purposes, particularly on board the whale ships, where it is employed to prevent the masts, &c. from chafing. The usual food of the morse is sea- weeds, corallines, and shell-fiah. It is not carnivorous. Phoca (the seal.) A great many species of this ani- mal are met with along the western coast of Green- land. The most remarkable for numbers and fre- quency arc the P. vitulina, or seacalf; P. Grtcnlandi- ca, or harp-seal ; P. hispida, or rough-seal ; P. cris- tata, or crested seal ; and P. barbata, or great-seal. Of these the first is most numerous, and is the chief wealth of iha Greenlander. Every part of the ani- mal is converted to some useful purpose. The skin serves for clothes, and is applied to the covering of the boats and tents, and it serves also for beds. The fat is the chief luxury of the Greenlander's habita- tion ; and the tendons supply tlie place of thread, being easily separated into very fine fibres, and not at all injured by water. The phoca vitulina, like the other animals of its kind, is gregarious, or rather they live in families, the old male being attended by his progeny for several generations. The teeth arc \ery sharp, and the ani- mal bites terribly, sometimes to the destruction of the poor Greenlander, as has been mentioned already. The habits of the seal are filthy, and singularly mis- diievous. A perpetual tyrant over weaker animals, ■I' ..1 ri .1 86 ARCTIC ZOOLOGV. W f I?? he is also an ofjjcct of constant pursuit with otliers- The white bear is constantly on the watch to surprise the seal when sleeping on the ice; but the latter has generally safe resources, talciiig possession of a single piece of ice from which he may command a good view of all around, and so that the proximity to the water may aiford a ready escape. Sometimes they contrive to make holes in the held ice, through which they crawl, and never venture far from that situation for fear of being surprised by the bear or the Uskee-me. They are easily stunned by a stroke on the forehead; but from this state they often recover ; and, if not immediately despatched, are desperate in their re- venge. The phoca vitulina, from constitution, is sub- ject to the most violent impulses of anger, and no- thing can withstand his rage when provoked. I have seen one of them after being hoisted on board, from the boat in which it had been carried apparently dead, from the blows inflicted on its head upon the ice, un- expectedly recover, and, seizing in its teeth the near- est object within reach, tear away such a portion as it could grasp. Even after death this irritation is strikingly manifest, as the muscular parts of the ani- mal, though stripped of the external integuments, still retain the principle of vitality, and continue starting and quivering long after dismemberment of the body has taken place. Distinct portions of the flesh exhibit similar appearances; and it has often occurred that when under the hasty process of taking off the seal's skin and blubber, and although the animal has pre- viously bled in profusion, as it would seem to exhaus- tion, yet in that mutilated state it has been seen, when s \ '■'sri*' ■ - ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 87 ,!. Iieaved overboard, to swim off with vivacity. These seals are in best condition in May and June; but in the succeeding months they become quite lean and sliy, and they are then seldom looked after for the sake of their fat. Seal oil is considered much more valuable than the whale oil, and is carefully kept apart for particular purposes. The greatest numbers are killed annually at the Spitzbergen fishery, and in that part of Davis's Strait which is known by the name of the South-west Country, about the sixty- fourth degree of latitude. In the higher latitudes to the north-westward of Disko, the phoca barbata is mostly found ; and they are usually of a great size, many of more than twelve feet in length, and of proportionate magnitude of body ; but from the persecutions of the natives, and the ad- vanced season when the ships get so far, very few of these are killed. This seal migrates in families, the elder ones leading the van, whilst the younger proge- ny follow confusedly behind, playing a thousand awk- ward tricks, tumbling and frisking along in the highest glee, aijd often in the extravagance of their fun fling- ing themselves quite out of the water. The sailors give to such assemblages the humorous name of *' seals' weddings." The chief line of migration which they appear to move on is westward, and the groups \vhich I observed invariably went in that direction. Canis Familiaris (the dog.) — This useful and faith- ful animal is peculiarly valuable to the Greenlander, serving him in the capacity of a horse to draw his sledge over the snow, which he does with astonishing obedience. For this purpose, they are commonly ^^ •1" 88 /VllCTIC ZOOLOGY. I:f h I joked in pairs, and twelve are the usual number em- ployed. The harness is nothing but light thong made of* seal or deer-skin. The figure of the Greenland- dog is singular. Of a size between the wolf and fox, lie seems to partake of the appearance of both, but mostly resembles the latter. The snout is pointed ; the ears short and erect ; the tail is bushy and pendu- lous, but a little recurved ; the body is covered with long rough hair, which is always erect, so as to give the animal in appearance a much larger size than natu- ral ; and the feet are small and neat. It is said to be little accustomed to bark, even in the chase. In times of scarcity, this faithful creature serves for food to his master, and its skin, from its long warm fur, affords comfortable clothing. It is chiefly made into caps, to be trafficked with the whale hunters every summer. The colour is variable, mostly black or gray. Canis Lagopus (the arctic fox.) — This animal difters considerably from the common fox, and scarcely de- serves that name. It is very variable in its colour at different seasons, being in winter found generally white, and in summer it exhibits a bluish tinge. The tail is straight and bushy, and the feet very much covered with hair; it is from the latter circumstance the animal takes its specific distinction. It is seen rarely in high situations, being chiefly near the shores, where it preys upon the ptarmigan, ducks, and smaller birds, and sometimes even on berries and shell-fish. It barks like a fox, but has not the disagreeable fetor of that animal. It assimilates also to the latter in being ob-. served to burrow where the earth is favourable to such an operation. It is rarely met with in Green- /,( R ■ ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 89 land, on account of its being constantly hunted for the sake of its very valuable fur. Ursus Maritimus^ (the polar bear,) called also the white bear, and Greenland bear, from the situation in which it is usually found. The polar bear is gene- rally enough known to make a description unnecessa- ry. Its appearance is clumsy and awkward. The shuffling manner in which it moves would make one suppose its motion very slow, yet its speed is considerable. It is impatient of heat, and seems to have no other residence than the ice, on which it is found at immense distances from land; but as it derives all its sustenance from the sea, such as fish, seals, dead whales, and the minor cetaceous ani- mals, that is its proper situation. The battles be- tween the polar bear and morse are truly terrible ; but the seal, P. vitiilinn, is by no means a match for such an adversary, and his only security is flight. The aspect of the bear is horrid, from his eye being co- vered with a nictitant membrane, similar to that with which the eyes of birds are provided. This mem- brane is highly useful to the animal, by sheathing his eye, and protecting the sight from the strong glare of the snow. His power of smelling is very great; and the sailors take advantage of this faculty to entice bim within their reach, by burning a herring, the smell ot which never fails to attract the animal. When attacked, he rears himself erect on his hinder feet, and exposes his breast unknowingly to the dan- ger, when the deadly spear is easily buried in his vitals. Instances have occurred when the savage 12 I 90 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. ■/ v ' ■' I- I H 1 i ivi , animaK feeling the effects of the lance, has drawn it forth again with his paw and made his escape. If a female, and accompanied by her young, she will never forsake them, though ever so badly wounded ; but, unmindful of her own safety, will use every exer- tion for the preservation of her cubs. The female is gra- vid from six to seven months, and brings forth two. It is a very rare occurrence to see two old bears in com- pany ; they are seen mostly solitary, or the female and her young ones. When looking out for prey they stand erect on their hinder feet, which gives them a more extensive prospect over the ice. They swim with great facility and force, and by this means pass from one field of ice to another. They can make very little resistance when attacked in the water, unless they can lay hold of the boat's gunwale with their paws, to prevent which the sailors often chop them off". Monodon Monoceros^ (the narval, or sea unicorn.) — It is mostly in very high latitudes, about the seventy- fifth degree and upwards, that this animal is found. Its horn, as it is called, is valuable, being considered excellent ivory. This tooth, properly so called, issues from the fore part of the upper jaw, just above the mouth. There are always two of these teeth, but one only attains the full growth, the matter of the smaller being absorbed during the increase of the larger : hence the name of the animal appears badly assigned. Diodon would evidently be more appropriate. The males alone are furnished with this formidable wea- pon ; the females being destitute of it. The mono- don is a beautiful animal. The skin is white, and ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 91 i elegantly mottled on the back and sides with black ; the fins and tail are black. Like the whale, balasna mysticetus, in genera, structure, its habits are friendly to that animal ; and they are frequently seen associat- ed together. Their food is similar ; and the only distinction from the character of its enormous compa- nion, as to habits, is that the monodon is gregarious. The usual size of the monodon is fourteen feet, and sometimes a little more ; and the tooth or horn is of an average length of seven feet. The mouth is very small ; its greatest expansion being not more than six inches. The tongue is very short, immoveable, and placed very far behind. The passage to the stomach is very small, not three inches over. When a number of these animals are together, they divert themselves in playing, when, their teeth ap- pearing above the water, as if brandished about, have a singular effect ; and the clattering noise they pro- duce in this confused gamboling, would lead an inat- tentive spectator to suppose that some hostile pro- ceeding was going forward, which is by no means the case. This has reference to the pacific habits of the monodon ; but certainly such an extraordinary provi- sion of annoyance could not have been dispensed for ornament sake ; and though the creature being desti- tute of teeth in the mouth, and subsisting on mollusca and marine vegetables, seems little calculated for destructive or predatory life ; yet this tremendous weapon must render him formidable to every inhabi- tant of the deep that obtrudes upon his peaceful haunts. It has been said that the monodon attacks the- ;E M W !'■ I r, I >. .1 bi I l\ n ■ I *i .. V '- -j*t_- 92 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. whale. No doubt such a conflict occasionally comeB under observation ; but it is not the simple, harmless, friendly, black whale, that becomes the object of re- tribution for injury received. Such tremendous reta- liation is most frequently inflicted on the bala^na physa- lus, the flnner, whose depredations are indiscriminate- ly exercised on every living creature that is inferior in muscular power ; and few else exist in those regions, and in that medium in which animals of this order exercise peculiar dominion. The astonishing force with which the raonodon urges his speed may be con- ceived from the fact of his tooth having been some- times found driven through the planking of vessels navigating the Atlantic Ocean ; the animal, in his fury, doubtless mistaking the body of the vessel for that of his adversary. In such an onset, the tooth is often snapped across, and is left in the wood through which it penetrated^ The monodon uses this instrument for the purpose of digging the sea plants from the rocks at great depths, not alone for the purpose of obtaining tender esculents, but with the intent of driving from their retreats the shrimps, mollusca^ vermes, and other minute animals that constitute his peculiar food. The spiracles in his crown are double ; but in their exit from the skin they unite and form a single aperture, through which the animal respires in a short and scarcely perceptible gust. His motion, when struck by a harpoon, is extremely confused. Seldom de- scending much below the surface of the water, he is easily taken ; and a few thrusts of the whale lance are suflicient to effect the capture. The Greenland- ,*, ....i>s#>«-- m ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 9S men save notliing of the monodon but the blubber and tooth. The fins and tail being small, are not looked upon as of sufficient value to compensate the trouble of keeping. Balcena Mysticetus, (the common whale.) This huge tenant of the sea is the chief object of the Greenland fishery : and for capture of this animal an expensive fleet is annually fitted out under the protection of the British Government. No name in zoology has been more preposterously applied than that of " fish," as generally including the balaena. The endeavours of Linnaeus to establish a classification of animals on the principle of teeth being an organic distinction, expres- sive of the natural means of prolonging existence, is justly the admiration of every one who makes this branch of natural history a study. The energy of mind, precision, and copious brevity of that inimitable master, have done wonders for the advancement of science ; and, like Bacon, he has added more to the mass of useful knowledge than all the cloud of dog- matists and logicians that for centuries has oversha- dowed the human mind. In animals of the cetaceous order, however, the usual arrangement by the teeth, was in the Linnsean system necessarily abandoned, the distinctions, as in- sisted on by that great author, being inadequate to generic character ; in place of which the following is given. Order VII. Cete. — Spiracles situate in the crown, feet none, pectoral fins without nails, tail horizontal. This (description is liable to some objection, though^ in general, sufficiently accurate to distinguish animals II if i I ;■ in ( m t f I 91 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. '■1 '■^. '1 h of this order from every other. They are all inhabi- tants of the sea ; and all have a peculiar organization of body, by which they are an intermediate link be- tween quadrupeds and fishes. Their bony frame- work is nearly similar in composition to that of the former, and it exhibits almost the same appearances when dry. The necessity of inhaling atmospheric air, with its effects on their blood, is also another point of comparison in which they closely approximate* whilst they bear resemblance to fishes in their long, tapering figure, calculated to make a speedy passage in the water. Destitute of hinder feet, they fall away remarkably from the previous orders of mammalia ; but the spine, as in those animals, runs the full length of the body, terminating only in the angle where the portions of the tail divide. The tail is distinct from that of fish, being unfurnished with bone; being formed of a combination of cartilaginous, tendinous, and fatty substance ; and being placed horizontally. Different from fishes also, animals of the cetaceous or- der are provided with instruments similar to fins, but of bony construction, much resembling the fore leg of quadrupeds, which to them supplies the use of the pectoral fin of fish, and of the fore arm of animals ac- customed to grasp familiar or hostile objects. A stronger resemblance to fish is observable in others, having a dorsal fin ; but when this comes to be exam- ined, it is found to be an elevation of spinous processes with the common integuments, and not moveable in the manner in which fishes employ that appendage. Cetaceous animals possessed of tlie dorsal fin are usu- ally hostile to those destitute of it ; and those furnished \ '* mm 1 :2 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 95 with teetli are very remarkable for predaceous clia- racter. Like quadrupeds they are all viviparous ; and from their habit of suckling their offspring, are properly classed with the mammalia. The head of the bala;na niysticetus is about one third of the length of the body, but often exceeds that dimension. The remaining two thirds are evenly divided by the parts of generation. In the female the pudendum is situated between the mamillary vessels, which are closely adjoining, in a parallel line; the vent being situated at a short distance below. A long groove up the belly of the male serves as a lodg- ment for the penis ; the testes being concealed be- neath the integuments, and not obvious to view. The teats of the female are of strong cartilaginous sub- stance ; and when drawn beyond the skin, are about three inches in length. When suckling her young, which is most commonly an individual, the parent turns on her side, and has then the advantage of tak- ing in a great view with the eye above water, when, if any danger is apprehended, she instantly descends, carrying off her young beneath her fin. If the young whale happen to be struck, the harpooner is sure of capturing the parent, as she never forsakes her off- spring. The eye of the whale is scarcely larger than that of an ox, and is furnished with lids. The ear is scarcely perceptible, being a perforation not larger than the tube of a goose-quill. The balaena mysticetus, or blubber whale, has re- ceived its specific name from the Scriptural record of the adventure of Jonas. Linna;us has left no expla- nation of many terms employed in this manner ; and r \ J! m \ i-j*... 96 ARCTIC ZOOLUUV. >li ^ ft I ■' It ■\ ^ conjecture musl, as on the present occasion, be em- ployed in aid of discovery, Crantz has put his au- thority forward in opposition to that of the illustrious Swede, and states that the squalus car charias, white shark, was more likely to afford the necessary accom- modation for the recreant prophet than the baltena : with the latter, however, one would suppose the man would have a better chance of escape. Many species of whale are seen in the northern seas, a certain degree of cold seeming necessary to their habits. They arc observed to traverse the western ocean as low as the fiftieth degree, but rarely below the fifty-fourth north latitude. Of such as fre- quent the seas about Spitzbergen, Davis's Strait and Hudson's Bay, the balaena mysticetus or common black whale, B. physalus or finner, B. boops or pike- headed whale, and B. musculusor broad-nosed whale, are the most remarkable. Indeed, the distinctions of the two latter species from the finner are so indefinite, and the animals are so seldom seen, that it may be supposed, with little injury to accurate description, that they are only varieties of the same species. They shall however be mentioned separately according to the ar- rangement in the system. The blubber whale being an object of more decided distinction, on account of the avidity with which it is pursued for the sake of its commercial produce, is de- servedly placed foremost as a subject of natural curi- osity, after the diodon* has been exhibited. Anoma- lous of the generation of quadrupeds, though similarly- I * Monodon, ♦ 1 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 97 propagated, and differing essentially from the finny class, in whose peculiar medium they exist, and if possible, farther removed from the amphibious animals than from the two former, the whales of this specific denomination are in characteristics widely removed from the ordinary classification of animals. The most obvious notice, which a naturalist would take of thii^ enormous animal, would embrace its timidity, and its immense volume of body, indicating at the same time resistless strength. HeMom, when adult, under the dimension of sixty feet in length, sometimes attaining a size half as great again, and moving in a medium peculiarly suited to his form, the whale must be pos- sessed of tremendous power; and his efforts under the influence of fear or anger are truly awful, when man, as observer of those efforts, compares his might and volume with such enlarged examples of muscular power. One remarkable distinction in these animals, which, ns it marks a good anatomical criterion, and has not hitherto, so far as within my knowledge, been made public, is that whales seem to possess an extraordinary provision of arterial blood. The remark applies also to seals, and almost all the animals, particularly of the cetaceous order, in cold climates. The Uskee-me, even, is oppressed by an overflow of that vital current, when the heat of summer forces a more rapid circula- tion. All those subsisting on assimilated food, and subjected nearly to similar temperature, approximate surprisingly In constitution. The Greenlander bleeds profusely from the nose, if no accident afford the salutary evacuation in any other mode, during the 13 II I, ,v » 1^ MA 9a AUCTIC ZOOLOGY. ) M I iP 1 Ml ■i t active and dangerous season of the summer ; nor does he consider the loss of blood on such occasions an injury. Wound a seal about the same time, that is, before he becomes exhausted by the natural occupa- tions of the season, and the profusion of arterial blood is astonishing for the size of the animal. The whale is an extraordinary proof of the accumulation which this portion of vital matter may attain in un animal's frame. Early writers on natural history have drawn con- clusions as to the prolongation of life, which they "would represent as indispensable in circulation of the blood. If an animal, according to such opinion, is obliged to live in water, and occasionally to respire atmospheric air, some peculiar organization of the heart becomes a necessary means of explaining the phenomenon. What may be the proper agency of the heart in the circulation of the blood, most proba- bly will long remain to be explained. This is applied to the received opinion that a passage in the heart, called the foramen ovale, is essential to the continua- tion of life in such animals as dive long and frequently under the surface of water. The seal is made a me- morable instance of this necessary conformation of that viscus as connected with the existing wants of that animal. The opportunities aflbrded me, how- ever, of examining the structure of the seal's heart ^vere far from convincing that the foramen ovale ex- isted in the seal. The best investigator may be mis- taken from appearances ; but where the eye, as well as the touch, is applied in evidence, and the alleged circumstance is not found, it may be pronounced har- W ' ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 99 I "^1 dihood fo l)car out the story by as^rtion. I have anxiously tried to ascertain the existence of such a passaj^e between the chambers of the \ital reservoir in the animal now mentioned, but was in no instance able to tra^e any such permeation. Now, instead of looking lu this accidental passage in the heart as essential to the continuation of life in animals fhat seek their sustenance in water, a more obvious resource may be resorted to as explaining this phenomenon ; and no division of animals presents tliis in better form than the cetaceous, both from the magnitude of the scale, and their peculiar habits. The extraordinary degree of warmth, which is evi- dent in the constitution of these animals, seems at once to prove the existence of great abundance of arterial fluid, which is the proper source of animal heat. In the monodon, and B. mysticetus, this is strong- ly evidenced ; the spinal canal containing scarcely any of the substance called medullary, and the jaw- bones, in their posterior foramina, being of immense size, and like the spinal canal, exhibiting a facia of blood-vessels of a calibre and abundance that would appear fully sufficient to supply the extraordinary heat above noticed. What may be the functions of the lungs under such circumstances, whether different, in increase or dimi- nution of action, from those of quadrupeds constantly living in the medium of atmospheric air, is difficult to determine. Whales, as well as seals, sleep in such situations as afford a constant supply of air; the for- mer on ice or rocks, and the latter at the surface of the sea. A circumstance, however, which I beg leave i A I f 11 M 100 ARCTIC i!:00L0GY. ] i '■ ' f:- ' '1 \ 1 k ■ Ml L^ ' ?• ■ ll% to mention, with an expression of little doubt as to the accuracy of the account, would appear to place in considerable difficulty an attempt at explaining the true action of the pulmonary organ in those animals when in a state of rest. I have been assured by a re- Bpectable master of a Davis's Strait whaler, that some few years since a native paddled alongside, making anxious expression of useful information which he had to communicate. It was, that he and his com- panions had, during three days, previously observed a large whale sleeping at the bottom in a neighbour- ing creek. On sending some boats to the spot, and splicing together some oars, by this means sending down a harpoon, the animal was struck, and subse- quently taken. In such case, does the action of tlie lungs remain suspended .•* or does the arterial circula- tion proceed so as to supply sufficient vitality .'* When the whale is struck, arterial blood flows pro- fusely. When the progress of destruction advances far enough to require the exhausted animal to respire more frequently, he blows arterial blood mixed with water; and when the lance has been repeatedly plunged into his vitals, the column ascending from the blow holes (spiracles) is of a vivid red, compared as it has been, not unaptly, to the flame issuing from a fur- nace : but when the arterial current is exhausted, and the animal is nearly subdued, then the column assumes a darker hue ; and as death is nearer, it becomes a deep brown purple, till with one immense effort of ex- piration the triumph is decided. At this signal the hunters raise the shout of death, and proceed to tovv UM'ay their enormous cnptivc. ire ith k;3 a ARCTIC ZOOLOGV. 101 This question narrows exceedingly, in ordinary view, if the chambers of the heart be considered de- cisive of the fact. Such an immense supply of arterial blood would require an enlarged cavity for its recep- tion and further distribution ; but here again a difFicul- iy arises, with regard to the uses of such numerous blood-vessels as the spinal canal and the foramina of the bones of the head present. The examination of the whale's heart exhibits no deviation from the ordi- nary construction of that viscus in other mammalious animals. As it lives always in the water, it would re- quire the transit of blood by the foramen ovale, much more than the seal, were such necessary; but no such opening exists. It therefore remains for anatomical research to account for the animal economy of the whale on other principles than those hitherto adduced. The social haunts of the blubber whale appear to be confined to the inland waters of Greenland; which, Jjeing of unascertained depth and extent, and shelter- ing the timid and unoffending creature from the nu- merous enemies by which he is persecuted, is anxious- ly sought after, when the urgency of sexual appetite forces him not from this his peculiar home. This pro" perly refers to such as inhabit the northern seas. How the animal is occupied during the winter months, whether sunk in perpetual slumber, which is probable, during that period, or more actively engaged in feed- ing; on the moUusca, and such minute animals of the crustaceous class as form his accustomed food, and with which those confined and tranquil waters may be supposed to abound, cannot with any plausibility be ascertained. Yet when it is considered in what pla- •i' M. ^ f r « UP r mm h'1 i) 102 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. r ) :% ir '- .1! ; 1M ' in V. . ^ ces the whale is first seen on the return of summer, and the direction in which it runs at that pecuhar sea- son, little doubt can be entertained of the retreats whence it has issued. Voyagers to Hudson's Bay seldom see the " first regular whales," until about the sixty-third degree. In the southwest seas in Davis's Strait, they are in the early part of the season oftentimes killed in great numbers. Higher up the Strait, they are seldom seen till after passing Baal's River ; and off South Bay, Western Islands, and in Disko, or South-East Bay, they become numerous, but are not stationary ; in general running to the northward, to the north-east- ward, or westward. Their haunts in such cases are far from regular, as what is deemed in one year suc- cessful fishing ground, becomes in succeeding summers quite otherwise. In this respect, no doubt, these ani- mals are regulated by experience of such aunoyance as they have met with previously. On the eastern side of Greenland, towards Spitz- bergen, they are seen in immense numbers about the 64th degree, but the majority are females attended by their young ; whilst on the west side of Greenland the sexes are nearly equal in number, and few young ones are seen. Further westward, towards the shores of North America, males are more frequently seen than in the other places, and always of superior size ; and in the high latitudes in West Greenland, ubove the Women's Islands, and throughout the wide fiords along the coast to Devil's Thumb and the Lin- na^an Isles, the largest whales are usually found. The latter seem to be their ne plus ultra ; and of this I shall give satisfactory evidence. »■;« ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 103 Th€ continual necessity this creature feels of re- spiring from the atmosphere drives him constantly to the surface. From his numerous pursuers, the field ice presents occasional retreat; and some of the mile- length bergs afford a similar security. As such re- treats always meet the exigencies of the whale from the northward, it becomes habitual for him to move in that direction ; and thither also his partner flies for protection of herself and young one, to obtain such con- cealment as the time requires ; but having reached the places above mentioned, further flight is impracticable ; the continual presence of ice affording no open water for breathing space, the continent of massy congelation being there unbroken except at its precipitous limits. The whales must in this case either return southward again, or move in an easterly or westerly direction. The purposes for which they have traversed nearly twenty degrees of the northern deep, and encountered the innumerable perils of the way, will not admit of premature return ; and there they remain running, as the whale hunters well know, from the islands of West Greenland, into the untracked ocean towards America ; and again returning, nearly in the same parallel, to the Greenland bays. Whether the ani- mals following such contrary courses be the same, must of course remain doubtful ; but that they do proceed in that direction, admits of not a shade of question. It may be matter of entertainment to give a short view of the mode in which the whale is hunted. Eve- ry ship engaged in this branch of commerce, from British ports, is furnished with six boats, besides the u ( r '^ \ "I' f i\!5 1 I ''■»rT I ■ ^ ^ 104 AUCTrC 200L0GV. ship's, or jolly-boat. One of these is called the gig- boat, or No. 1 : the remaining five are distinguished only by their number. The gig is provided with six oars, besides the steersman's ; the rest have only five oars each, with the same exception : in all, the har- pooner uses the bow or foremost oar. Each boat is provided with three lines, of 120 fathoms each, made of the very soundest hemp; as on the faithfulness of the line the success of capture depends. These lines are coiled with great care and nicety in a square frame hi the middle of the boat, and the harpooner has his weapon ready in a dry place, to set it on a rest prepare(^ for that purpose on the right bow of the boat. The boat-steerer, who must be trained to his station, as in emergency his courage and cautiou may not only secure success but save the lives of the men, is provided with a long oar, with which he dex- terously directs the motion of the boat. Each boat is also provided with a tin trumpet to announce the sta- tion or movement in case of being enveloped in fog ; and also with a piece of bunting attached to a short pole by way of signal flag. Thus equipped, the boats are suspended by a sim- ple machinery of ropes and blocks by the ship's sides, ready to be lowered in an instant. To the mainmast is attached, at a great elevation, usually about 100 feet above the deck, a structure resembling a water cask, called a hurricane house, in which the master or confidential officer is stationed with a telescope on the look-out ; and to such as have not witnessed the fatigues of that station, a recital of its dangerous hardships would appear incredible. In the sudden Is, ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 105 transitions from intense cold to the most annoying heat, whilst the head is involved in the blaze of an eternal unclouded sun, that blisters the face and blinds the strongest vision, that situation must be in- flexibly maintained, and such perseverance often costs the individual the loss of health and life. If the ship's station be on what is considered good fishing ground, which is commonly known from the water being of a deep olive colour, a boat or two being kept continually on the watch, the moment a whale is descried, the pursuit commences without loss of a second of time ; and as the ordinary speed of the whale boats is six miles an hour, a very short space of time is sufficient to bring them to the spot. The whale, on the first rising, seeing no enemy near, and not apprehending danger, is apt to repose a consider- able time at the surface, apparently " stretched out o'er many a rood," and the boats are meantime ad- vancing to the place. " Give way" is then the word with which the rowers urge their speed, and the har- pooner, with desperate and determined energy, bu- ries his weapon in the animal's body. This is mostly followed by a moment's awful pause ; the whale, upon feeling the smart of the barb, trembles for an instant in his posture, darts precipitately forward, or sinks by an unaccountable effort with the suddenness of so much lead. If the harpoon remain fast, the line con- tinuing to run with immeasurable velocity, the flag oi the boat is displayed in token of success, when all in the boats within sight of the transaction, and those on board the ship, join in a wild irregular cry of " A fall, 14> tf» II' I: iv ' ;ii * ■ f n ): f u 106 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. a fall,"* and a flag is immediately run up to the mizzeu mast head to proclaim the vessel's good fortune. In the mean while the other boats are despatched to aid in the capture, and no sooner does the animal rise again, than the next harpooner secures him by a second wound, and so follow as many as they can, until by multiplied efforts to escape, compelled so re- peatedly to rise for breath, and then almost instantly visited with the instruments of death, exhaustion fol- lows, and he becomes a bestunned object for the hun- ter's deliberate aim, when, from the numberless plun- ges of the lance, the vital current becomes spent, and the animal dies. Such an event is not always unat- tended with danger to the hunters. Often in the first instance of being stricken, if re- collection of similar injury aid his anger, the retaliation of the animal is destructive, for, rushing backwards, in which direction the assailants usually advance, a single touch of the tail is sufficient for their destruc- tion. The sudden violence with which the animal descends frequently produces a similar effect if the line happen to meet obstruction in its course- ; and in the dying scene, pierced with many wounds, the ani- mal exhibits a terrific object by the mightiness of his efforts, though quite unconscious of the grand effects produced by such exertions. Spouting a column of apparent flame, which, descending, covers the sea with a crimsoned surface of acres in extent, at the same time lashing the water all around into purple * The cry of" A fall, a fall," seems to be expressive of having taken a whale, the Dutch in their jargonous langr";..^- giving it origin. i1^ \ . r ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 107 foam by the strokes of the fins and tail, now and then endeavouring to repli :ige in hopes of escaping, in which effort half the body towards the tail is seen above water, the unger so obvious is carefully avoided by the ^»of^ crews, at that crisis cautioned to remain at a sccui e distance, when the lines fastened to the harpoons are slowly drawn in till the animal re-appears and breathes his last. The whale, after death, always turns on the back. The fins are then lashed together, perforations are made in the tail, and a rope is passed through, and thence round the rump; when all the boats, passing lines from one to the other, proceed to tow the mon- ster towards the ship, which is usually so managed as to meet them, in order to lessen the fatigue. When brought alongside, the body is properly secured for the operation of flinching. This consists in digging off the blubber, or cellular substance, from the mus- cular parts, in large slips, sometimes of half a ton weight, but all of a regular form, which are lifted on deck by the help of the windlass, and the labour of many hands, who toil incessantly until the spoliation is completed. The whale-bone, as it is called, is care- fully dug out, as well as the massy tongue ; the former for its peculiar imj irtance, and the latter as being al- most entirely of blubber. The bones of the lower jaw are also removed, being a private perquisite of the master, and so would the frontal or crown bone too, were it not for the extreme difficulty of separating it from the body. Then finally the remotest joint that can be marked in the lumbar vertebrae or rump, ;- I" \ ■ 108 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. ■) I 1 f \ ih i i ■I 1 \ ' i is severed, and the crang,* as is called the residue of the animal, with its abdominal contents, is suffered to sink, which it instantly does to the bottom. When the flinched pieces are hoisted on deck, they are cut into squares, and tossed into the body of the vessel, where they remain for a convenient opportunity of reducing them to handbreadth slips, which is done by chopping them, upon portions of the tail, with heavy knives; and this procedure, which is called "making cfT," is final for the transmission of blubber to the English ports from the diflferent fishing grounds. The reduced pieces are for that purpose placed in large casks, and closely bunged up to prevent the action of tlie air from producing the putrefactive process. During the foregoing operations, the utmost pre- cautions are observed that no portion of muscular flesh be mixed with the cellular part, as the violent explo- sion of the cask would be the consequence, when coming into southern climates. Similar concern is also evinced that the sawdust of the pine should not have admittance into the casks containing the blubber, from an experience that the casks in such case are more certainly burst by the evolution of gases in an earlier stage of putrefaction than even by the presence of the former. To prevent the first from taking effect, the muscular parts, and skin, are carefully cut away in the " making off;" and the sawdust is employed so cautiously, and in such small quantities, that no abuse of that dangerous material can be apprehended. The * Crang probably bears some relation to the Latin term for muscular flesh. \ i .■■ ) >^#' i ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 109 chief reason why sawdust is employed, is i'or the pur- pose of drying up the oily effusions thp* incommode the men in the u&e of the respective impk .ents neces- sary to effect the operations of ffmching and making off. The use of fir-timber dust on such occasions cleanses the hands and instruments, with a ready and efficient result; and the ship boys are stationed so as to supply the demands of the officers in this respect. Tlie integuments of the whale are, like the animal himself, widely different from that of every other in comparison. The epidermis is like thin parchment, flexible when on the body, easily detached, wrinkled according to the age of the animal, and corresponding with the organization of the muscles beneath ; but, when dry, it is horny and brittle, and in consistence similar to the finer laminae of the whale-bone. The true skin is about an inch thick in its full character, and is formed of material analogous to the whale-bone, but breaks, when dry, in perpendicular fissure : it is usually a deep brownish black, and, when soft, strongly resembles Indian-rubber. In composition it seems to differ very little from the substance that con- stitutes the matricular bed of the whale-bone ; the white colour of the latter forming the only distinction, except that its fracture is shelving. The cellular tissue, or blubber, is, in its average thickness, twelve inches; in the very young whale, being gelatinous; in the more advanced and vigorous, of a florid red, when it is considered most valuable ; and in the aged animal, yellow and tough from the induration of in- creased and condensed fibre ; for which reason the '\ ' h 1 I f V 110 A1U>TIC ZOOLOGY. older whales arc not so much an object, where dioicc presents, as those of less advanced growth. The older ones are also more dangerous and diffi- cult to take, both from the rigidity of their frame, and their experience of injury. It is not unusual when they happen to be disturbed in the pursuits that draw them from their retreats, that, if a partner be wound- ed, the affectionate companion comes to give relief, not knowing the cause of the pain, or of the sudden flight. In the search, the watchful hunter strikes the fresh prey, when the tortured animals, seeking each other in their anguish, and desperate with their wounds, often run foul of the boats, and involve their pursuers in the ruin that overwhelms themselves. In some instances, as heretofore observed, they, by run- ning among packed ice, or rubbing the line against the edge of a flaw, (a portion of field ice,) frequently chafe it so as to make it snap, and so escape for the moment, but they are seldom eventually safe.* On such occasions they cease not \a run for unknown length, until fatigue or death makes them insensible of pain. To some such occurrence is to be attributed the circumstance of a whale having been captured with the harpoon imbedded in its body, after traversing the unknown seas between Spitzbergen and Davis's Strait. I cannot conclude this part of the subject without mentioning the singular character of courage and in- trepidity evinced by the men employed in the capture r 1 * " Hgeret lateri lethalis arundo." .J '1 I ' 1 I il ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. Ill of the whale. Trained to the occupation from boy- hood, and induced by rewards of much importance in their station, such quahfications are highly recommen- datory in their appHcation for employment ; and, in their voyage, should " good luck" attend their ex- ertions, and an implicit devotedness to the interests of the owner be evinced, their advancement and emolument are certain. The expense of outfit, the danger of total loss by shipwreck, and the thousand casualties to which this branch of trade is liable, should prevent all envy of the profits arising from it. When successful, these profits are certainly great ; but they are fairly balanced, not only by the constant and straining anxiety attending selfish concern, but by the apprehension that all the individuals so engaged may probably never return from so perilous a mission. Such reflections consume an honest and humane heart; whilst the purse of the adventuring me chant may be distended by the fortunate return.* Indeed, under every consideration, few would be found to envy an adventure of such description. The legislature has placed ample protection over this trade, holding forth every encouragement to men of enterprise and ca- pital to promote it. The late long war has also con- tributed to make it a sort of monopoly to the British merchant; but when the yearly diminution that at present exists has continued, whales in the northern seas will become as scarce as wolves in Britain. Balcena Mysticetus (the finner) bears a great re- '^ The whale averages a value of 1000^ k > TJi ^ i:. i 1 I ■■\ ' H A I ^ ■ III H2 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. semblance to tlic former, in tlic generic character of the double spiracle on the crown, but dilfers from it in having, at the extremity of the dorsal vertebrae, a soft fui. The (inner is seen traversing the ocean between Newfoundland and the British islands, in numbers ; but in tho months in which the blubber whale sallies forth from his haunts, they are observed running to- wards the arctic seas, and are consideref'. good guides to the whale's retreats. Like that animal, the place of teeth in the mouth is supplied by horny lami- nae imbedded in the frontal bone ; but in the fmner, those lamina! are shorter, and of a blue colour, which, from wliatever cause proceeding, renders it less fit for the impression of those colouring materials, by which the common whale-bone is adapted to so many useful and elegant purposes. The finner being also much thinner in blubber, of course more slen- der, though generally surpassing the blubber whale in length of body, is less the object of pursuit. Be- sides, the hunters from experience avoid striking the finner, well knowing his enormous strength and fleet- ness ; always when wounded, running forwards with such velocity as to distance his pursuers in a few minutes, and frequently snapping the lines ; or, should the harpooner holdfast, himself and the boat's crew would soon be out of reach of all reasonable assistance. Hence these animals are very seldom captured. The finner is gregarious, being usually in herds of from five to a dozen j and they are, at any distance, easily distinguishable from the blubber whale by the .• ■ ' ".*,■. II ARCTK ZOorOfiY. II.; stieiicrtli, elevation, and wliiteness of the walery column tlischarged iVoiii the blovv-liolrs. The hiast of the blubber whale is short, full, and brownish, driven somewhat forward ; whilst that of the fuiner is forced ilirec'tly upwards in a firm column of more than ten feel, and with such an accompanying gust as maybe heard in a calm evcnins; at the distance of more than half a mile. The attention of the sailors is diawn to the path of the iinner by the noise of tiiis discharge; and should the animal be then beneath the surface, and his course be marked by the eddying ripple caus- ed by his motion like that of the blubber whale, on ascertaining the fmner'^ blast, the pieparations for pursuit are instantly suspended. With regard to the bahena boops, or pike-headed whale, and thebalicnamusculus, or broad-nosed whale, I have already some reason to suppose they have the best place in a description on the page of a publica- tion on natural history professedly directed to exhibit new species. They shall for that reason be included in the general description of the former species. The physeter, or cachalot, is seldom caught in Davis's Strait, especially the P. macrocephalus or spermaceti whale. It is from the head of this animal that spermaceti is obtained ; and from its intestines, when diseased, the .substance of ambergrise is procur- ed. Those seen in Davis's Strait arc now very rare. The body is generally whitish and smooth. It has a double row of teeth in the lower jaw, forty-six in num- ber, which arc received into sockets in the upper. The physeter mirrops, or sharp-nosed cachalot, ip h h\ 1 i Ill AUCTK ZOOl-OCiV ; ; / i *', \ \ % ■it * r A ,■ • *■ soniefimes, but very rarclv, seen in the northein seas. f had an opportunity of observing only one in Davis's Strait. Delphinus plmcfena, or common porpoise, is ircquently seen in numerous slioals in the Strait, tuni- bhne: al)outin the rouirhesl waves as if in spoit. Tlie 'ti ■r> general length of this animal is seven feet. The usual food of the porpoise are herrings and small fish ; but of these I never saw any in Davis's Strait. Delphinus Orca, (common grampus.) — There are two varieties of this genus to be met with in the noithern yeas. They differ from the porpoise, in the snout of the former being not so blunt ; whilst that of the gram- pus is short, blunt, and a little turned up. The re- markable difference of size too is very striking, the grampus being from twenty to twenty-four feet long, and proportionally bulky. The latter also is furnish- ed only with forty teeth ; whilst the former has forty- six in each jaw. The second variety of D. orca, sword grampus, has the dorsal fin long and bony, broad at the base, and curved like a scymeter. As they advance in age, this instrument grows longer ; so that the leader, or old one, can be distinguished from his followers by the su- perior height of the fin. This is one of the fiercest enemies of the whale, being provided with such an ef- ficient weapon of annoyance as the strong dorsal fin. The sword grampus pursues also seals ; and the lat- ter, in their clumsy eilbrts to escape upon the ice or rocks, are frequently overtaken by their active adver- sary, when the seals are swe[)t from their place of rc^ AllC'Tk; ZOOLOGY. Hj treat I)ack into the water, where they are easily van- (jui-shcd. The sword grampus varies much in size according to age ; but when full grown, it is al)ove twenty feet long. The great size of the fin, from which the animal derives its tiivial name, distinsruishes it amona; the dolphins as much as a similar instrument does the physeter turfio among the cachalots. Dclpliinm Leucas, (white whale or beluga.) — Snout conic, obtuse, inclined upwards ; doi'sal fin wanting. This beautiful an'mal diversifies many a dreary scene in the arctic seas, where all animated existence would seem siiut out by the eternal presence of ice, and its accompanying cold. When every wind is hushed, and the surface of the sea becomes of glassy smoothness^ a lively herd of these gregarious animals, by their merry gambols, and the exhibition of their smooth, slippery white bodies, affords a pleasing and entertain- ing view. As in other cetaceous animals, their pecto- ral fins partake more of the character of the fore feet in quadrupeds than the pectoral fins of fishes, being constructed of fine bones, of a very porous kind, cover- ed with a little fat, much cartilage, and a thick, tough skin, with an epidermis. The young are dusky, or mottled obscurely ; but that distinction, I apprehend, is not decidedly accurate, as many of that dusky colour, which I have seen, were equal in size to their white companions, and some even surpassed them in magni- tude. The teeth in the jaws of the white whale are short and bluntish, in number amounting to thirty-six. The usual size of the white whale, when full grown. ^m. r !i hi IIG AflCTlC ZOOLOGY. is from twelve to fifteen feet, and not vcrj' bulky for that length. There is not, at a great distance, much dii!erencc between the D. leucas and the monodon, their movements being much alike. Having; laid before the reader this short and faith- ful account of the mammalious animals, I shall pro- ceed to enumerate the various birds that came actual- ly under my observation, and will briefly detail such of their habits as I had an opportunity of noticing my- self, or of collecting from the accounts of persons, who. from many years' experience, have been eyewitnesses of those habits. Corvxis Corax (the raven) is not common in the arctic regions, though observed in very high latitudes. Seldom seen in pairs, this bird leads a solitary life, alternately frequenting the ice in the early part of the day, and returning to its rocky retreats^ in the after- noon. One remarkable circumstance regarding this bird, in Greenland, is the peculiarity of note which it utters when perched upon its craggy seat, — not thaf deep, hoarse, croaking that announces its ominous presence in Europe, but a shrill and rather pleasing, soft, short note, greatly resembling the barking of a dog, or such as the fox is heard to utter when in chase of his prey. On first hearing this note, I was much surprised, supposing it to come from the arctic fox, or other such quadruped ; but the sudden presence of the raven descending from the lofty brow of Disko, and uttering this singular cry, put the circumstance beyond doubt. The Greenlanders eat the flesh of this bird, convert the skin into inner garments, and make fishing lines of the quills. U if' I ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 117 Jlnas Mollissima^ (the eider duck.) — Male — bill, legs, front, ocular band, breast, rump and belly, black : crown, shoulders and wing coverts, white, with a green blotch on the nape. Female — almost wholly ferruginous, or rusty brown, with darker lines : tail and primary quill feathers, dusky. Length — 22 inches. Food testaceous animals. Eggs — five, greenish, with. a tinge of brown, and larger than those of the tame duck, which, as well as the flesh of the bird, are excellent food when fresh. The nest is constructed of dry vegetables, and strewed over with the rich down of the bird, which is either shed from the heat of incubation, or is pulled ofTfor the purpose of increasing the warmth. The plumage constitutes the valuable eider down. The vast flocks of these birds, that annually visit the shores of Greenland for the purpose of rearing their young, are surprising to one unaccustomed to see animals so highly prized for their down. It would be needless to particularize any bay, inlet, or creek, as most remarkable for the retreat of these birds during the season of incubation ; they are however careful to avoid the presence of the natives as much as possible ; and they arc generally found by the whale ships where Uskees are not seen. In Hickson's Bay, for instance, and in the fiords farther to the northward, they are seen in immense numbers, where boats may be laden with their eggs without difiiculty, and a good marksman may easily possess himself of many of the birds themselves, as both male and female are not much alarmed at the presence of strangers who come so unexpectedly aa the whale hunter^^ do. The great. niim\ M 118 \KCT1C ZOOLOC.k. k'* i^ "I concern ol the season never allowing tlio ships lo ic- main long in one station, nnless iinpecled by the ice, or the whales appearing in great number, prevents the slaughter of the eider duck to the amount that would otherwise occur every year. The ujasters of the whale ships are anxious to fetch home the skins of" tlie eider ducks, as presents to their friends, Avhen the coarser feathers are plucked otT, and the skin stretched so as to be preserved dry with the down on ; in which state they are considered highly salutary in application to the breasts of newly lain-in women. These skins form the great luxury of such of the natives of Greenland as can reserve them for their private use ; but they are of too much value in the estimation of the Danes not to induce a barter of them for some iron nails, and other such important cqui>alents. JInas Boschas (the common wild duck) is also very numerous. Procellaria Glaciafis, (fulmar petrel, or mallemuck.) — There are many varieties of this bird. If colour constitute specific distinctions, there are many species under this name. As this is one of the most remarka- ble birds that frequent the Straits during the Summer months, a particular description may be deemed ne- cessary. 1. Head, breast and belly, white ; back and wings, hoary ; legs, yellowish ; bill, pale ash, yellowish at the tip ; nostrils, composed of two tubes lying along the bill, and lodj^ed in one sheath. 2. Head, whitish ; neck, back, wing and tail, »»-* . - . ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 119 tJiiikcr giay than the 1st; legs and bill corrcspond- J. Body and \vings cinereous gray. 'I. J>ody, wings and tail, almost brown, with a grayish tint. The first three are properly called mallemuck, and the sailors fjive the name ofspectioneer to the fourth, to which, tiom its singularly filthy and voracious ha- bits, and also from a view of its enormous cesophagus, ■which extends the whole length of the body, the sto- mach being situate near the vent, the name specifically designating its qualities — gulosa, or gormandizing petrel, would be more appropriate. Besides, these birds are found all over the ocean, and visit the icy seas only in the siunmer months. From their similarity of colour and size, they would at first view appear to be gulls ; and some writers even describe them as such, wherever they happen to be met with at sea, particularly in fine weather ; but this error is easily rectified, when one comes to exa- mine the peculiar character of their tubular nostril, which is, to use a familiar phrase, like a double-bar- relled pistol. In a heavy gale, the fulmar petrel is more readily distinguished by the strength and facili- ty of his flight ; like all the birds of that genus, seem- ing to take pleasure in the storm, with the greatest case skimming in every direction with truly astonish- ing speed, playing round the ship when running ten knots an hour, and sometimes breasting the mountain- ous wave within half an inch of the surface, ascend- . ing to its greatest elevation, and in that manner foK lowing it as closely in its preci|)itous descent. u f ,1 '^r J 20 ARtTU; /OOLOUV. *i i^'^ 1 11 The ordinary length of llie mallemuck, is seveniten inches; the younger ones not so large. When old. they are easily known by their increased voracity, and the tyrannous disposition they manifest towards the younger and more timid. StujDid and fearless, they will approach near enough to be killed by the stroke of a boat-hook or oar, if tempted by a j>iece of blub- ber or other fat ; and, after being stunned and taken into the boat, on recovering ever so little, if their fa- vourite blubber be within reach, they will greedily swallow it ; and it must be a very large piece that will not find its way down with them. As they appear in the northern seas, they seem to have, each, but an in- dividual concern ; so that the distinctions of sex can- not be determined from common observation. When sated, it is true, they compliment each other in a short chuckling note, like caw, caw; but this harmony is easily broken by casting among them a piece of blub- ber, too large to swallow, when they commence an angry contest for the prize, and the most courageous generally remains solitary at the feast. This envious and rapacious disposition affords the sailors an oppor- tunity of amusing themselves, by tying two pieces of blubber to the ends of a string, when a ridiculous scene ensues ; one end being swallowed by one malle- muck, the other is seized and perhaps gorged by ano- ther, and the prize is thus several times alternately iiauled out of each other's throats. The immense numbers of these birds that annually r» p-ort to Davis's Strait are surprising. Their pro- bable breeding haunts must be somewhere in the southern shores of Greenland, or on the coasts about MUMMiM •;t- ^ 1 T"~* •-'"'* •"Hn| ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 12) Hudson's Strait ; for it is after cominsj into those lati- tudes that tlicy are ohserved to increase most in num- ber. Tliey arc of importance to the whale hunters, showing by their flight the retreats of that animal ; and this indication is always relied on and followed. The mallemuck possesses the sense of smelling in a very acute degree ; for if at any time not one of these birds is to be seen, a .small hit of blubber thrown overboard will attract them imincdiatclv in creat numbers. Procellaria Gravis, (the cape hen.) This familiar name is given by the sailors to a new species of petrel, seen only in the latitude of Cape Farewell and Staten Hook, and somewhat farther eastward during the sum- mer months ; frequenting Newfoundland in the latter season. Bill and legs, black; nostrils, tubular; throat, breast, and belly, white ; crown, nape, back, and wings, sooty brown; tail, brown, with a white band across ; ends of the quill-feathers, touched with white ; band on the eyes, black ; wings, very long. The usual Icnjjth of this bird is nineteen inches: and, like the others of the genus, it can exert amazing velocity; seldom striking downwards with the wing, particularly in a strong wind, when it sails about with the utmost facility. It is a heavy, stupid bird, and sleeps much upon the water. Pelecanus Carbo (the common corvorant) appeared only on one occasion, in a flock of six. It is thought to be rare hereabouts. Lams Maximns, (burgomaster, or the white-winged gull.) Bill, pale yellow, with a blackish band across near the tip; body, wings and tail, snowy white, with 16 H tf ■:*■« > 'i] '. J r [t ']|M d ■•^- fi 122 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. a dasli of pearly gray on the interscapular region and tcrtials ; legs and feet, pale flesh colour; liind toe, small; claws, horn-colour ; length, when full grown, thirty-two inches. Being now for the first time de- scribed, I have adopted the English specific name pro- posed by Mr. W. Bullock, of the Egyptian Hall, Pic- cadilly; in whose museum the bird is placed. The name of burgomaster is that by which it is familiarly known among the Greenland men. The white-winged gull is generally solitary; most likely the female being then, namely, in June, in the state of incubation ; but, in the latter end of the sum- mer, they sometimes appear in pairs, attended by one young one. This bird seems to partake of a quality remarkable to all large animals — an indolence, or love of ease : his mode of flight indicates this disposi- tion. A continued, slow and heavy stroke, carries him forward with a speed much greater than one would suppose from his motion. His more bustling and vo- racious neighbour, the mallemuck, gives him no con- cern; and that quarrelsome gourmand is never seen to interfere with the purposes of his gigantic compa- nion. The larus maximur, however, frequents the places where the offals of whales may be found ; but he is extremely shy, and carefully keeps at a great distance. His cry is pleasing, weak, and plaintive, yet may be heard a good way off. Larus Eburneus, (the ivory gull, or ice bird.) This truly beautiful bird has the plumage as white as snow when full grown ; but the young are elegantly diver- sified with spots of black. Eye, jet black; bill and legs, lead colour; sixteen inches long. This bird, so I ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 123 pleasin;^- to t.lic observer, is sure to torture hitn with its pcrj)ctual and disagreeable screaming. Lams Ca'ius (common gray gall) is not frequently seen. The same may be observed of the L. cataractes, or skua gull, and also of the L. fuscus, or herring gull. Lams Tridactylus (kittiuakc or tarrock) is very numerous in Davis's Strait. The trivial name is de- rived from its cry, which is a shrill scream, somewhat resembling the word kittiwake. It may be known from the young ivory gull, by the bill being yellowish, and the mouth of a saifron colour within. Lams Parysiticus (arctic gull, or boatswain.) This bird is very rapacious, pursuing the weaker gulh3 until fear from continued pursuit causes them to dis- charge what they have eaten, which it dexterously catches and devours before it can reach the water. The two middle tail feathers are \ery long, but the females are said to be destitute of this mark : many of the species being seen together, a few only have those remarkable feathers. The boatswain is very fond of flying round the penants of the ships, but no cause can be assigned for this singular habit. Its colour is generally brown. Stuna Ilimndo, (the greater tern.) This beautiful bird is seen in great numbers, sometimes thousands to" gether, resting on an ice berg, and, when on wing, exhibits a graceful and elegant flight. The S. hirundo seeks its food, which is mostly the cho retusa, or some other mollusca, by plunging into the Water sometimes six inches and more, at which depth that little clio plies his flimsy oar in company with the gaudy medusa pileus, and others of that genus. The tern, or as it ;» ,1 )! \ \i 'VT ^ I r . / ;M h V 7 5' \i '■^ i 121 AUCfiC ZOOLOGf. is called the sea-swallow, is in Hesli not mncli larger lha!i a lark, though to tlie extremity of Its forked tail it measures twelve inches. The win£^s are \ery lon^ and light; bill and legs, crimson; the former tipped with black; cap and oculai' band, black; back and wings, cinereous; outer tail-feathers, edged with black; rest of die body white. Cohjrhus Troik, (foolish g'-iillemot.) Inimense flocks of these birds annually visit Davis's Strait; but they seldom go much further north than the seventy-tliird degree. The sailors give them the name of looms. The body is bh'ck; breast and belly, snowy; secon- dary quill feathers, tipped with white ; bill, black and slender, the edges sharp and compressed, and covered with short feathers at the base. This last character is distinctive of the genus. The loom is eagerly chased by the Uskee-me, who finds in such pursuit the highest gratification. When approaching to strike the loom, the Uskee stoops very low, his chin almost resting on the kaiak, paddling with his left hand, and, with his dart ready in his right, he advances singing in- whistling low and pleasing notes, whilst the bird, justly called the foolish guillemot, rather amused than alarmed, aw aits his pursuer's approach, who, from his singular accuracy of aim, and experience of distance, seldom fails to strike his object. The warm blood of the loom is a delicious cordial on the occasion, and the flesh a ready repast. The skin is much prized as material for inside dress, for which it is certainly well calculated, from the depth of the plumage. A proof of the estimation in which this little capture is held among the Greenlanders is their unwillingness to bar- .. ^-^ ; ■r ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 12.') -v ter those birds with Europeans, the highest compli- ment being an olFer of truck for one ol' them. The loom is seventeen inches in length. Colymbus Gnjlk, (black guillemot, or dovekee.) The many changes of plumage which this bird puts on, from variety of climate, and such other circumstances as sway its habits, admit a description only of its gene- ral characters. Body above, sooty black ; wiiig co- verts, white, or white intermixed with light-brown ; body beneath, white; bill, black and long; inside of the mouth and legs, red ; length, from twelve to four- teen inches. The habits of the dovekee are scarcely different from those of the loom. Like the latter, it is grega- rious : but seldom joining in society with others of the genus. No evident hostility forbids association among those devotees of gluttony ; yet they are found invari- ably separated in flocks of distinct species. An odd dovekee is sometimes observed among the throng of Col. glocitans, and that in their most northern migra- tion. Sea being the dovekee's home, this bird has lit- tle intercourse with land, except for the purpose of incubation. Its nest is on the ground exposed, and merely temporary; always near the grand retreat. This dwelling is extremely simple, and formed of such adjacent materials as the site will supply. Tenant at will, the dovekee seeks not for much luxury ; and the whole of its active life seems to be similar to that of the human lord who derives his scanty and preca- rious sustenance from the same waters, in the same situation. I 'I ■p- 1^ V' 12(i ARCTir ZOOLCX.V. // } ; 'I' M Coljimhns (Uovitans^ (the roch.) I'his bird is new in dcscriplion^ and is peculiarly remarkable from its frc- (jiK^H;) and softness of call. Hence it merits the spe- cific name which I have ventured to assign it. Bill, short and black ; both mandibles, arched, the eds^es compressed and sharp ; head, neck and body above, sooty black ; wings, light-brown, irregularly mixed with white; bill and scapulars, white ; legs, black: length, when fully grown, ten inches. The roch is tlie remotest and last visiter of Davis's Strait, which it frequents in immense flocks, darkening t!ie surface of the sea, and with its incessant call enli- vening that dreary scene, where nature seems wrap[)ed in eternal slumber. In view of the Linna^an Isles, the water is covered with millions of this species, where their favourite food, the clio retusa, abounds. Some- times an individual dovekce is seen in the throng, or the majestic and solitary burgomaster. When the returnirig sun warns for general departure, the roch is the last to disappear. Ordinarily its flight is low, close to the surface of the sea, which in that high latitude, during the summer months, is mostly calm; but when mijrratins;, the flock assumes an elevation of about a quarter of a mile, and may, at any distance in sight, be distinguished by its rapid and hurried movement. This bird employs both wings and webbed kei when under the surface of the water. Often, when Suddenly overtaken, have 1 seen them make such ex- ertion, plunging in a twinkling, and, rowing away from the cause of alarm, yet not forgetful of their purpose. 'If ■■'^-i--3.. II 4 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. 127 seize the flimsy clio in tlieir j)rogrcss. On emerging, XUcy are able at once to take fliglit, wirurli facility they derive iVoni the ahuntlance of oil whitli they possess. The flesh is esteemed good. This |)i-(>dilection may proceed from a desire to enjoy fresh meat ; and an apprehension may be entertained that few dehcate appetites would relish a pye formed of a bird of its unsavoury habits. Many other subjects in the zoology of Greenland remain to be described ; but I beg leave to refer the reader, for the more minute ones, to the accurate work of Fabricius, Fauna Ura?nlandica, where will be found interesting and elegant descriptions of animals collect- ed in the course of many years* observation. One circumstance, however, I must not omit, as it oilers an explanation in natural history hitherto desir- ed. A species of s(jualus is to be met with in Davis's Strait, by sailors called the blind shark, which is sup- posed to be an applicable name, from the temerity with which the animal, regardless of his own salc.y, rushes to his prey. This shark is about four feet in length, body dark blue, shaded with brown on the sides, and is very steady and slow in movement. A whale (B. M.) having been killed, and made fast alongside the ship, the men being in the act of flinching, one of these sharks came up, and fastened on the body, with a cir- cular scoop cutting out the part seized, and whilst so engaged, bore to be stabbed several times by one of the ship-boys. The assertion, therefore, that the shark turns on the back for the purpose of snapping his prey is incorrect. That eflectis produced by the sweep in \) '1 ■■ ■» I f li ^ f i •■ ' ,#^ I \tr> h i > H « 128 ARCTIC ZOOLOGY. the circular revolution, by which the numerous rows of the angular and edged teeth in the jaws of the animal arc brought into successive action. It is pro- bable that it was in observing the body of the shark up-turned in this revolution that the error first arose. ,i ^.^Adfcii^^v^.'i 129 CHAPTER VI. ON THE EFFECTING OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. Since these pages were commenced, I have been in- formed by the newspapers, that ships are fitting out bj orders of the Admiralty to explore a passage to the Pacific Ocean through the arctic seas. The reader will excuse tke insertion here of an article that ap- peared to that effect. I do not wish to load my page with quotations ; but this seems of some importance, as it refers to the first authority on this subject. " We learn that a vessel is to be fitted out by Go- vernment for the purpose of attempting again the north-west passage, the season being considered as peculiarly favourable to such an expedition. Our readers need not be informed that larger masses of ice than ever were before known have this vt?ar been seen floating in the Atlantic, and that from their mag- nitude and solidity, they reached even the fortieth lati- tude before they were melted into a fluid state. From an examination of the Greenland captains, it has been found that, owing to some convulsions of nature, the sea was more open and more fi ee from compact ice than in any former vojage they ever made ; that seve- ral ships actually reached the eighty-fourth degree of latitude, in which no ice whatever was found ; that, for the first lime for 100 years, vessels penetrated to 17 i 130 ON THE EFFECTING OF 1 I* >) tlie west coast of Greenland, and that they appre- hended no obstacle to their even reaching the pole, if it had consisted with their duty to their employers to make the attenjpt. This curious and important in- formation has, we learn, induced the Royal Society to apply to ministers to renew the attempt of exploring a north-west passage, as well as to give encourage- ment to fishing vessels to try how far northward they can reach, by dividing the bounty to be given, on the actual discovery, into portions, as a reward for every degree beyond eighty-four that they shall penetrate. For the same reason, we think it would be adviseable for the merchants engaged in the Greenland whale fishery not to postpone the sailing of their ships to the usual season, but expedite them at once §p as to take advantage of the temporary fresh." In addition to the above, another notification infonns the public, that " Capt. Buchan, of the Pike sloop of war, recently returned from Newfoundland, is appointed to the ex- pedition to the north pole. Capt. Ross is the other officer who proceeds thither. They are to be accom- panied by four lieutenants, one attached to each of the captains, and the others to command the two ves- sels to act as tenders. Two of the ships, as we before stated, proceed up Davis's Strait, the extent or ter- mination of which is utterly unknown, and the other two direct, if possible, to the pole, between Iceland and Greenland. The ships are to be ready for sea by the first week in March." Now, if these notifications convey the information on which the intended expeditions are directed, ar; 'ti A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 131 some doubt possesses my mind on t'nc accuracy of that information, I shall submit to public considera- tion a few remarks on this head, and shall afterwards briefly set before the reader an accurate journal of some months' traversing of Davis's Strait noted falth- fidly by myself. Every information coming by newspaper account carries, from the abuse of some such publications, strong features of want of authenticity ; but, in the present instance, where the names of captains in the navy, of most reputable character, are introduced, no doubt can exist as to the fact of the expediuons being in preparation. These notifications, however, would imply that the direction is fixed towards the north pole : such a project cannot be grounded on what has been found from an examination of tfio Greenland captains, who are reported to assert that, *' owing to some convulsions of nature, the sea was more open and more free from compact ice than in any former voyage they ever made." The masters of whale ships are forbidden by a solemn oath,* which * 1 master of the ship .... m:ike orith, that it is really and truly my firm purpose, and dcterininod rcsolulioii. that the said ship shall, as soon as license shall he sijraiitcd, iorth- with proceed so manned, furnished, and accoutred, on a vnya<^e to the Greenland seas, or Davis's Strait, or the sc;is ailjaccnt, there in the now approaching season, to use the utmost endeavour of myself and ships company, to take whali^s or oiiier creatures living in the seas, and on no other design or view of profit, in my present voyage, and to import the wliale fins, oil, atul hhihhcr thereof into the port of Sworn, kc. at the CuHtom House ^r. ',\ 132 ON THE EFFECTIVE OP i(t; they must subscribe to, in the Custom House, before clearing out the voyage, to seek nothing but bhib- ber ; and this oath, or its reward from their owners, if faithfully kept in view, unfits them for affording proper or satisfactory information to philosophical in- quiry. The trite vulgar phrase, " for want of a bet- ter that must do," applies to such an investigation with no complimentary effect. If accurate informa- tion be desirable on this important subject, why derive it from such erroneous chance, wherein the binding of a parliamentary oath forbids the deponent to know any thing of the matter .'* The reader will look with surprise at such lan- guage as the following, conveying information on an important and philosophic subject, " Masses of ice, larger than ever before known, were seen floating in the Atlantic, and from their magnitude and solidity, reached the fortieth degree of latitude before they were melted into a fluid state." It cannot be imagin- ed that such a story would recommend a sensible ap- plication to any persons knowing the nature of ice. The specific gravity of that substance is lighter than that of water : ice floats in fresh water, which is much lighter than salt or seawater; and chemical observation has proved that one of the chief causes of its buoyancy in the latter fluid is from the mass losing its salt, which precipitates as the congelation proceeds. Another objection to the sufficiency of this account is derivable from the terms " solid," and " compact," when applied to ice ; for surely no philo- sophic mind would lind it right to admit such phraseo- logy in any grave representation. Again, " the A NORTH-WEST PAaSAdi:. 133 Greenland whale fishery," inserted in sucli a commu- nication, would be matter of curious reading to per- sons knowing that wiiales are not scientifically do- nominated fish. Equally unfit would it be to repre- sent, in such an application, that "it would be ad- viseable for the merchants eneaeed in the Greenland whale fishery, not to postpone the sailing of their ships to the usual season, })ut to expedite tho;n at once, so as to take advantage of the temporary fresh.*' The adviser of such expediting sliould be aware thai the ice in the arctic seas l:>reaks up only about a cer- tain period, in the latter end of the month of April or beginning of May, of which event the whalers are so well aware, tliat the Davis's Strait ships are sent off only in the beginning of March, that the lengtii oT time necessary for traversing the Atlantic may suit the usual opening of the ice ; whereas those •• ex- pedited" for the Sj)itzbergen sea are detained nearlv a month later. Besides, those who would be di rected by such an advice ought to be aware that ru. such thing as a temporary fiesh exists in the nordiern seas. The current is steadily and unifoiinly south ward ; and the great expanse of those waters give;^ such room for the diffusion of ice reduced to its liquid oriiiin, and the accession of the streams issuino- i'lou. die numerous fiords and rivers, that such a frcr^ii i^ never experienced. The sage solution of St. Pierre widi lefjard to the supply of material lor the daii\ rise of the tide, is less reprehensible, but equally speculative. The delightful novelist just mentioned, sittinsr in his closet, remarked the inlluence of the sun as dilferinff very materially duriuii; tlie dav and ui^djl ' i : f I J M OS THE EFFKCTIXC; OF \Vi i :l it ifr The iorce o( imagination made him conclude that from the unknown seas around the north pole, a diurnal supply could be derived from the action of the sun upon the ice. In convincing himself that the sun's rays actually dissolve ice, and that the light and in- fluence of that globe is communicated to our earth once every twenty-four hours, the succession of the ebb and flow twice in that period became evident. The tides as experienced, however, in more southern latitudes should be, from such cause, only two every year, or, at least, there should be a very remarkable increase only when the solution of polar ice is com- plete, which should be in the middle of August, while it should be very low when the surface of the polar seas is bound in its wintry coat, which is most solid and unbroken in February. To be acquainted with the arctic seas, one must visit those regions ; for, from my own experience, I assert, that in no other way can a useful and accu- rate knowledge of the subject be obtained. It is quite absurd that persons not accustomed to sea -.hould undertake a demarkation of a ship's course, directing a certain line of longitude to be adhered to, as was dictated to the late Lord Mulgrave. Such sapience is as much to be admired as that of the Roman Pontiff who cut out the Brazils from South America in a similar manner. Those who know the arctic seas are aware of the impossibility of adhering to such an order ; and it is to be hoped that, for the safety of the crews, and the success of the intended ex- peditions, such a tying up of hands will not be in- sisted on. When the subject hereafter may admit 1 A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 13.) ot* a full delineation of its difficulties and dangers, to which I presume the facts of the following Jour- nal* may be deemed properly antecedent, the above intimation will be found not irrelevant to the ex- pedition. Considering here only the more generally interest- :i \ ' 1 #'l )URNAL IN DAVIS'S STRAIT. Thursday, May 8 : thermometer 20", IS**, 12°: wind S. \\ . strong breeze : off Disko Bay : two whales seen, and one seal : cirrostratus in haze, and some more dense lower down : some natives, each carryins; his canoe on his head, passed over the ice, and visited two ships which were in-shore flinching ; some very large bergs in sight surrounded by field ice : the cold this evening increased very much ; snow fell at times, thick and hard. May 9 : ther. 15", So*', 16° : wind S. E., fresh breeze : much snow fell during the preceding night : appearance of cloud cirrus fine, comoid and undulate : cirrocumulus and cirrostratus during the day, apparently near Disko, yet many miles distant from that Island : thermometer exceedingly variable throughout the course of the day, till 10 p. m. when the last observation was noted : in the evening a yellowish white cloak of cirros- tratus was spread over the summit of Disko ; this colour is in- variably communicated to the atmosphere where bergy ice i« present : larus maximus and procellaria glacialis in scanty num- ber, also a very few of larus tridactylus : thermometer at mid- night 12". May 10 : ther. ID**, IG**, IS** : wind S., light breeze : freez- ing intensely : sea nearly tranquil ; the surface congealed in ex- tensive fields, which are interrupted by spaces kept free by the action of the wind : cumulostratus to the eastward ; a fine, highly illumined stratus to the southward ; all else clear of cloud, but of a milky blue : tUe light iutoleruble to the eye : at 8 a. m. ihe I I ti 136 0^ THK Kri''K(TI\(; of ing circumstances of my journal, I may observe that, at Lievely, Avliicli wc approarhod on the 12th of May, the Danish government kcjps a colony under the su- pciintendance of an officer, Avhose chief residence is said to be at the whale islands, and under his di- rection other agents or factors take care of the in- tl iiinueiice of the sun having raised a light vapour from the surface of the ice, this became immediately condensed by the intense cold ; and, drifting along the surface of the water in irregular spires, whenever met with, was found to be a cloud of minute icy particles, extremely annoying ; and, from its effects, styled by the sailors, " the barber :" snow at times : day ended with icy snow. May 11 : 15", 23«, 16" : wind S. S. E., fresh to strong breeze: cold less than on the preceding day : atmosphere at times loaded with milky haze ; which, on clearing, afforded a view of beautiful snowy cirrocumulus, and in its aggregation exhibiting a changing variety of cirrostratus : close in with Disko, westward of Fortune Bay, some huge bergs embedded in flaws of field ice many miles in extent ; larus mar i, procellaria glacialis, colymbus troile. May 12 : ther. 20«, 24", 20" : wind from W. to S. E., fresh breeze : trailing masses of cumulus passed frequently across the sky : cumulostratus, and occasionally cirrocumulus seen : ex- tensive flaws descending from the northward with a strong cur- rent, the ice being about two feet in thickness : Lievely Point not far distant : the whale islands lying to the S. W. : procellaria gla- cialis, corvus corux, and some ducks observed. May 13: thcr. 25", 33", 24": wind variable from N. E. to N. W., fresh breeze: cirrostratus in mist: a long spreading sheet in N. E. and very dark linear parallel layers of the same in E. : the horizon exhibits a characteristic instance of ice blink. The procellaria glacialis this day active, and in vast number : some rain preceded a short fall of snow in the evening. \ NORTH-WEST TASSAGE. 137 terests of the government, which are chiefly main- tained hy the industry of the natives, and Danish con- victs sent tliither for their oJTences at home This pohcy is not obviously calculated to improve the con- dition of the poor Circenlanders, nor to aid materially the labours of the missionaries. The efforts of those May 14 : V.w.v. 24", :iV,'\ L'fi'^ : wind, nearly calm, variable to S. : ill the soutlnvani a heap of cumiilostratus : tliR summits in- tensely white : brown and white cirrostratns Hoating slowly over the summit of Disko : weather at noon mild and pleasant : in the aflernoon the state of atmosphere was a light grayish brown luizc, blending land, ice and sea, into one immeasurable field ; and, with the exception of the summit of Disko, making the scene interminable. May 15: ther. 30", 31", 32": wind calm throughout: sun in a dim corona : misty brown cirrostratns creeping along the breast of Disko, about half of its elevation : sea still and smooth : several very large seals seen, but too cautious to be come at. May 16 : ther. 31", 34", 27" : wind W., light breeze : some snow and rain, at intervals sleet : weather mild : ship in company with many others at Fortune Point, made fast to a berg : saw a fox and a bear this day : in the valley west of Fortune Bay, a flood of cirrostratus, in snowy fleeces, spilling down from the summit ol" the mountain : cirrus. May 17: ther. 34°, 51", 36°: wind calm : in Love Bay, at Disko, lat. observed 69° 10' N. ; the atmosphere heated very much towards the afternoon : the cirrus radiation, as heretofore observed, occurred this evening, at a great elevation, running from the southward. May 18 : ther. 40°, 50°, 34" : wind, light air and variable from N. : at 8 ,y. m. wind increased in the same point to fresh breeze, which was pre-indicated by the radiation of last day : ex- tensive but loose cirrocumulus slightly obscuring the sun : ship 18 i i I? li isn i)N Till", lffkctim; of l)eiiu\olri»t |tListors are much coiinteracletl by tlie iiljantloncil habits ol' the convicts, who intermarry with the natives; and, as tlie latter now are convinced, endeavour to debase the national character. *' Those strangers,*' they say, "are lielpless and had; know not the use of the paddle or dart, and ii" left to thcm- 'J' Hi «! still fn>'l to ice in Lovn Bay : coarse sand in seventeen fathoms of sounding. 'J'lie tide ri-iPS here about eight feet : the ice began now slowly moving down to the "southward, and shut in the point of Lievely ; .1 shoal of delphinus leucas seen, each about ten feet in length : a j)uir of ravens seen. May 19 : ther. 32'>, 34', 28' : wind N., light breeze : general diiVusion of brownish-gray cinostratus : the sun light intense, allows a distinct view of objects the most distant : Disko clear : atmosphere mildly warm : ship cast otf from the ice as it began to open freely : course directed to the N. W. as all the South East Bay and the Way gat Sound were closed, according to the report of the natives : one blubber whale and a seal seen : also a raven, a few looms, and a small number of procellaria glacialis on vving, proceeding to the north-westward. May 20: ther. 26°, 32", 34*^ : wind, alight air from S. : at- mosphere loaded with vapoury cirrostratus, variously coloured liy the suu-light : the ice blink very remarkable where an ice berg lies in the horizon : about noon the cloud cleared up under the strong influence of the sun, forming cirrus alternating with cirrocumulus : a light brown cirrus radiation appeared in the westward, risini!; from an interrupted chain of cirrostratous patches, which formed the segment of a circle, having its centre towards (he zenith : this curve became reversed as the radiation dis- persed, the centre then being towards the horizon : the wind Idevv a fresh breeze from that point after an interval of nearly tour hours: in this part of the Strait the wind is very variable, and seldom of long duration : at midnight tlie sun just reached the 1 m iif-ailfw,-. \ NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 139 selves must starve."' European vices, through such means, have also iomid their way to tiie liuts of tiiis harmless people ; and even the bargains elFected hy iheir governors are so severe upon tlu'ir miserable means, as to make tiiem little satisfied of tiieir sense of justice. A- ' ■ 'I ' Ijoii/oii, sliroiuled in a (Iccj) brown mantle of cirroslratiH, willi a rich redilish-Iirown border next tlic water ; above and around were beautiful exhibitions of cirrocuniuhis and cirrns, some re- taining tiieir forms for a loii<; time, and otiiers imperceptibly ii\- ferchanging shapes : the moon appeared distinctly at a great ele- vation in the N. W.* It is remarked among the whaler.*, that when the moon appears in those hititudes, it is a sure indication of foul weather: in the present case, however, this assurance was found to be incorrect. May 21 : ther. 39^ 42°, 32= : wind perfectly calm : morning de- lightfully line, such as would appear most charmiMg to the senses, if the beauties of vcu-etation were added to the scene : sun-ligh( intensely bright : not a speck of cloud to be seen : -Disko in the distance unclouded : packs of ice all around : the whale boats l)usy in every direction, a few of what are called " straggling fish" having appeared : the whales so seen were running rapidly in many directions, but chielly towards the north-west. Many seals continued sporting in view this evening : a iew looms, but no other birds seen. May 29. : ther. 32', 42% 30= : wind S. S. W., light breeze from variable : Disko crowned with brown ciirostratus : others appear in profile pointing north and south : the day continued un- usually fine : procellaria glacialis, larus tridactylus and ranus in small number : a few seals appeared, but were evidently verv cautious, from the habitual persecution of the natives. May 23 : ther. 20', 33 = , 32' : wind N. E. shifting to S. W.. fresh breeze : dark vapoury cirroslratus, and others in profde. ■ ■ ^: All bcanims nicntiono'.l in llii> ioiiriiiil wrc hy rompa'?. -•*•' 140 ON THi: F.PFK( TlNf; OF I On a proruliicnt ominence at Lievcly stands ii wooden biiildina;, called a look-out Iionse, the standini^ place of such persons as are on the watch for whales. The house of the governor, which is also built of wood, is in a sheltered situation. '^Ihere is also a large "building reserved as a storc-iiouse for the lishing iin- 'i ( r, pointing northwiinl : larus maximus scon : nt Ion p. in. a licauli- fnl parhelion iipiiearoci above Disko. This plienomonon, wlncli is commoni)' named a mock sun, exliibitod two distinct portions ol" an iridescent circle surroundinj; that Inmiiiary, iU'd parallel to the line of the horizon : no portion of siicli lis^iit as the sun .nf- fords, but the Ix-illiant colours of the rainbow, were rellected from the sun's li^ht upon a deep brown bed of cirrostratus, through which the sun light broke, afiectinff those colours in its passai^e through the cloud : it is quite erroneous to apply the name of mock sun to such a phenomenon ; it might be equally assigned to the rainbow. A seal was siiot, but the body sunk bcibre a boat could be lowered down to seize it. May 24 : ther. 26°, 42 = , .36= : wind S. W., fresh breeze : ship moving among packed ice oil' Fortune Bay : light snow some- times falling : a dense ledge of ciriostratus in N. W. : hirus mari- nus, tridactylus and eburneus, in considerable numbers around : L. maximus, as usual, a solitary individual : procellaria glacialis in great number ; ursus maritimus ; one killed to-day. May 25: ther. 37°, 42°, 35°: wind N. E., light breeze: atmosphere clear and dry : Disko unclouded : cirrus and cirro- cumulus at a very great elevation : a fog bank, which is a dense and extensive accumulation of cirrostratus, appeared to the north- ward : this is said to be stationary for several days, and when moving, proceeds like the thunder-cloud against the wind : wea- ther fine : this day a swell of the sea was observed by the whalers, and hailed with joy, because it helps to heave the surface so irregularly as to cause the field ice to break up : it is produced by a gale blowing in some remote quarter some days before : the direction of the swell could not as yet be ascertained, a« it wa« I I A NORTH-WF.sT I'VsSVCI'.. Ill plrmont.s, and for tlin otiirr piirposr-^ of ihc <'oloiiy. Tlio inatciials (or tlicso bulldinj^s arc roiivcycd iVoiii Kiiropr, l)iit not always in suniciont supply for tho uants of llu' people, who have frefpientiy a very pio- vitlential relief in the drifted pines and other timhers that arc occasionally driven on their shores ; but 1 scarroly perrojitililc : tlip fo;: l)at)k (lU)i(M"Hf'(l williiti a fow lioiirs : stoma liirundo : Lk'voly licaiiiiu; S. K. liy S., (Ii«itant six or seven Icas^ties. -i()iimliii;i;>' were taken, twelve, tuenty, ami lorty fathoms, though tlu' coininoii sailing chart s: ites tlie depth it tliis jilare to he liiO fathoms : tliere ts a (lansi;eruus diflerencr hetween. May 26 : ther. 29% 32', .'30= : wind W S. W., stron<,' hrec/e : the still and tranqnil state of the last fortnir'hf. is mnch chif^jjed since the appearanre of the s.vell notireil last eveni!.-;; : the ice has undergone mnrh dissohition, and extensive scit i. \'; now visi- ble amony;st the parks : the swell came from the southward, nd was more determined towards niidniy;ht, wl :;m ihe atmosphere '.te- rame loaded with snow-cloud, which was sUv^ccedcd b^' cirrostratus fl\ins; alonsjwith mudi velocity : in the hiirher regions cirrus and cirrocumulus unintlnenced Ity the wind, agitating the mass below. The rock of Disko, in the distance, appeared as if standing on a mir- ror, though the ice was visible close in with the shore, and extend- ed outwards in a close pack for leagues : the snow channels down the rock seemed to he perpendicular to the plane of the imaginary mirror : larus niaximus, canus, and marinus on wing : P. glacialis ; also a raven. May 27 : ther. :V2' , 3\' , .IP.' -. wind, light airs, variable : co- moid cirrus, and streaks of ci 'r'i:>:ratus in the horizon pointing to N. VV. and S. E. : ship cleared the ice and moved into the vicinity of the Whale, Dog and Western Isles : colymb\is troilc. May 28 : ther. 12= tiiroughout : wind S. E., fresh breeze : cirrus varying its f r»;is incessantly, its fuie points directed to S. W. : afternoon still and calm : surt'ace of the sea of glassy smooth- ness, dimpled only by the plunge of the sterna hirundo, which plied its graceful wing all around : colvmbus troilc sometimes N M2 ON THE EFFECTING OF whence this wood comes, a thorough investigation of tlie Greenland currents only can determine. The ice blink, seen by us. on the llith, is a dull yel- lowish light just above the horizon; and, more eleva- ted, a haze of a gray bjit piercing light, exceedingly distressing to the sight. Objects, such ;is ships, leave i- seen, also a numerous train oi'anas mollissima ; tUree very largf- sized halaena physalus, passed U'itli their usual speed, i'ollowed by a busy herd of delphinus leucas : the bhist of the tinner could In; distinctly heard five or six seconds after its visible elevation : tliis evening nine natives put oil' iVoni the Western Islands, and came alongside the ship to fralTick : after some hours' stay, durinc which time a young man showed his skill in striking a loom, they departed : they were very different from each other in features, but were all evidently of the aboriginal race : a seal happening to appear near one, he instantly pursued the animal, and the others sat watching his success, and, upon his striking his object, which he did with great address, the rest paddled hastily to his assistance, but the seal escaped. May 29 : ther. 30% IG', 31= ; wind E.. fresh breeze : at- mosphere clear and cloudless : Disko dipping iu the liorizon : some whales have been seen in S. W. of Fish liay : seawatcr deep brown, with a greenish tinge : wherever the water ap- j)ears of this colour, it is considered the whale's feeding-place : ;t bi'illiant parhelion seen at a little before midnight. May 30 : ther. 30 = , '1C = , 32= : wind F.., light breeze : a swell from S. W. : cirrus and cirrocumulus, the lormer in beauti ful variety : the ice blink remarkably oppressive this day, being a dull, milky, but powerful light : a Idubber whale killed this dav measured upwards of fifty feet : thousands of mallemucks crowded round the ship to partake of the spoil : the whale-bone measured ten feet and one inch. May 31 : ther. 30'', 33=, 30= : wind N. E., strong breeze: (his day gave me a full opportunity of observing a whale moving at will ; ascending from the bottom, this enormous animal arose just 'M A NORTIMVEST PASSAGE. 143 an impression on the eye, in the medium of this ice l)hnk, so that whichever way the spectator turns, he beholds the same objects still represented to his vision. Bergs similar to islands, having bold and precipitous fronts, sometimes crowned with eminences like rocks or castles, and the summit of this seeming land sloping Wi under the stern of the sliip, and moved forwards in a majestic style, having taken in fresh air, and descended forwards slowly again : its motions were efl'ected with ninch ease, though the speed is so great, being between eight and nine, sometimes ten miles an hour : the whales are generally seen at this date in pairs, or three toge- ther, two probably rival suitors for the female's regard. Weather beginning to grow thick : the circle of view, however, is large : the ice much dispersed, and in active dissolution : co- 1} mbus glocitans in considerable number : colymbus troile, few : larus canus and tridactylus : proccllaria glacialis less numerous than usual. June 1 : ther. 32 », 18', 30' : wind N. E., light breeze : the misty cirrostratus continued since last, congealing into rime as it drifted across the ship : a male whale fifty-eight feet long was killed this day : procellaria glacialis again in immense number : larus muximus, eburneus, tridactylus and marinus. June 2: ther. 32', 34°, 33' : wind E., strong breeze: cir- rostratus in mist : a male whale killed this morning measured se- venty feet, the longest lamina eleven feet three inches : whilst the men were engaged llinching this huge body, a blind shark cami', and in its over anxious desire to share of the spoil, gave one of the l)oys an opportunity of wounding him several times : groups of the oniscus ceti, whale louse, attached to the epidermis of this whnlo. particularly about the fins and anus. June 3 : ther. 32', 37°, 30* : wind nearly calm. June 4 : ther. .32° throughout: wind N. E,, light air. June 5 . ther. 27°, 38°, 32° : wind E., light breeze. June 6 : ther. 38°, 5G°, 38' : wind E. N. E., light oil Juno 7 : ther. 30°. 30°, 33' : wind nearly calm. f fl 144 ON THE EFFECTING OF gradually the opposite way, lie around embedded in the field ice ; but being so much deeper, they are more influenced by the current, which, pressing for- ward against this liuge mass, forces it to rive the sur- rounding field, and produce the flaw ice, which is then carried off* by the current, and pushed on by the ma- June 8 : tlier. 31°, 38°, 34" : wind N. E., strong breeze. The weather during the above days had scarcely any variety, and couhl aflord httle information or ainu.senient to the reader ; the atmosphere being generally loaded with heavy vapour, and some- times acicular snow : sea almost clear of ice : ship to the westward of Disko about thirty miles distant. June 9 : ther. 42', 53'', 43' : wind S. E., fresh breeze : atmos- phere clear and dry ; Whale Islands to the S. E. in sight : light feathery cirrus, with faintly marked cirrocumulus, and a dash of cirrostratus brown mist, flittering far beneath : a hugely headed whale sixty feet long was harpooned amongst some bay ice, that is, ice recently formed in some bay and carried out to sea : such ice is the thinnest description of congelation which is covered with 8no\v, and readily dissolves ; the snow nearly dissolved from the face of Disko, which is now mostly of a dark brown appearance : at noon the air was exceedingly sultry, wind same time S. W. : a few threads of cirrus seen in the afternoon, with others of comoid character arising out of them, and passing to some distance at right angles : mallemucks numerous ; burgomasters, a pair ; terns and kittiwakes around. Between eight and twelve o'clock p. m. having in this interval kept constantly l«toking at the patches of ice, among which the boats were busied in pursuit of numerous whales, the colour of the ice, as it appeared to my sight, surprised me very much, assuming at a distance a bright pink, and in situations nearer to the eye a pale purple. There was no cloud over head, nor any visible, except a yellowish brown stratus occupying the whole horizon. This phenomenon I do not recollect to see noticed by any person here- tofore. 4- A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. ]45 jestic berg. The flaw ice, sometimes leagues in ex- tent, invariably level, and covered willi snow about ten inches deep, is also urged in its change of place by the pressure of the wind, which, though probably not blowing at one extremity of the flaw, produces its preponderating efl'ects at the other. Masters of ships I - > June 10: ther. 31°, 4G = , 28= : wind N. E., liirht breeze : to the tino weather of the last, a ilark, chill atmosphere has succeeded, loaded with icy vapour; but this state of atmosphere is evidently contined to a low degree, as the zenith remains clear : at noun more clear around, and cirrus, with cirrocumuhis of brilliant vhite, occupied the hi minutest indiration of anv change of wind in those seas is imperative, as the progress of tlie most experienced navigator must be otherwise baffled [xm peliiallv, and tlie purposes of his voyage embarrassed witli diliiculty, doubt and danger. At an early liour thi- morning the zenith was enriched by an elegant display of cirrus, in comoid, streakoil, waved and minutely dotted form, all which underwent a complete and hasty dissolu- tion, by a wind from the N. leaving a thin whoy-coloured ini-^t at a very great elevation : procellaria glacialis, colymbus troile and glocitans : the water deep brown, with greenish hue, retlecting pur'i'lc when turned up in wave ; this latter colour may proceed from the fragments of the frail medusa pileus, which is hereabouts •a \ a>( number. June JO: ther. 32°, 37% 32° : wind N. E., fresh breeT-.e : "irrostratiis at a great elevation overclouding the welkin : at noon calm and clear : comoid cirrus, and cirrocumulus, the former indi- cating a wind from S. VV. : the calm was succeeded soon by a dense dry to;:; from t!\e westward with light variable winds from that quar- ter : a sli adv fiesh breeze from S. W. sprung up afterwanls, when the fog cleared away, and the ship was ascertained to be in the latitude of the i\I,dU:gat, which is a short rocky sound between Disko and IJ;u'c 1-1, uid • colynibus troile and lams maximus : thi^ latter solitary. r. k y 'J ^1 i ■ < i ut^tDS^a' ^ in ( 111 I i:a) ON THE KKFECTINU OF iioiis, llu! scroiiilj of the weather, and the inagnifi- cent hrow of Disko lookinti; flown on an apparently Lilliputian scene, was certainly a novel exhibition to a stran2;rr: even the hardy sailors viewed it with de- lia;ht. Thouirh the thermonioter indicated so low a tcniporature, yet the air felt agreeably warm, proba- .hmc 21 : ther. .'32% 1G = , 3G' : wind S. W,, light breeze : morning fine willi cirrostnitus : Black Hook in sight : the wind being favourable, much of this pare of Greenland came within view : at noon a large island was ascertained to be, by observa- tion, in latitude 71" 46' north ; but as few parts in these latitude.", except remarkable headlands, are named, this island has not yet received any distinct name from Europeans. The rock is the same as that noticed at Disko, namely floetz trap, with a distinct stratum of fcltspar, about high water mark : numerous flocks of rociies, looms, dovekies, mallemucks and kittiwakes ; also a soli- tary burgomaster. June 22: ther. 32*, 41°, 30° : wind calm or variable and light : the transient visitation of the wind, coming at uncertain in- tervals, and from almost every point of the compass, produces a sliglit ruffling of the sea, which is throughout this day of a glassy smoothness : the sailors call these ruffled patches, cat-skins : these patches are only of short duration, and the most extensive not half a mile over : they are invariably in the corresponding position of the superincumbent cloud, which is cirrostratus, low and of a deep brown, except where the sun-light tinges it of a yellow hue : in the places ^vhere this cloud approaches the hori- zon, a distinct communication may be observed between the cir- rostratus bed and the wave beneath, somewhat similar to rain de- scending from a nimbus : this communication was always followed by the cat skin. Whenever the ship came within such communi- cation, I observed a light mist to fall in acicular snow, exceedingly minute and evanescent. .Tune 23 : ther. 34°, 44°, 28° : wind E. N. E., light breeze : cirrocumulus of da/zling whiteness seen through the purplish ■ «. ,1^1 A NORTH-WEST PASSAftK. i:>\ bly from the effects of tlie sun on the rocks of Disko. It being expedient to make the ship fast to a hcrg, an anchor was buried in a large one near ; but, havin';- started from its fastening, sunk to the Iwttom ; and being hauled up, had a large cluster of the ascidia pedunculata, with innumerable small animals altacli- I ■t brown masses of cirrostratus floHtin:» beneath : water, oreanlr ozure : land nearly out ol" sight : mucli loose ico to the westward : whales seen in groups of five and six, mukintf hii.sty progress northward : some few seals came in view : the blue colour of the sea is supposed, in the Stiaits, to bo reflected from a rocky bot- tom, and demands the utmost vigilance of the mariner : prorcll-t- ria glacialis in small number on wing ; so also Inriis maxinius : colymbus glocitans, colymbus troilc, larus tridaclylus and chiir- neus ; the latter very clamorous. June 24 : ther. 30°, 37% 34= : wind N. E. by N., strong breeze : this day is bright, but hazy : light acicular snow con- stantly falling : the ice seen occasionally as the ship tacks in the breeze : procellaria glacialis, and colymbus grylle. June 25: ther. 24 = , 30% 28° : wind N. E. by N., light breeze : atmosphere as yesterday, hazy, and intensely bright without snow ; the change of temperature painfully felt : at times zenith clear. June 2G : ther. 32° invariably : wind S. W., strong breeze : at midnight, between this day and last, the sun came to too m.ri- dian at a variation of somewhat more than 6^ I'oints eastnud of the compass : latitude 73'^ 15' N., near lierryV hland : an ap- pearance of cirrostratus cloud O'currod, wJiich is worthy of no- tice from its consequences — aggregated small clouds of irregular shapes, purplish brown, smooth, and edged ".vith a soft yellowish illumination : distinct from each other, they appeared heavy and motionless : such clouds, I have since freqjently noticed, usually appear before a gale : an immense number of wlialcs made aj)- pearance amongst the surrounding packs of ice, and tlieir blowing among the ouoaerous bergs would have niisod a notion that in thi> V »1 l\ (^ i I 1 ."i2 ON THE I-,FFE( 1 ING Ot ,1. ... uniiiial I'd, and involved in its base. Tlii.s cluster oC had iiiucli the a|)j)earance, at lirst sight, of heaiitifid ^c'a^lct Iruit haii«^Mrii!; hy ihoir stalks. On the IHlli an old Dane, drawn hv twelve docs, and attended by a native boy, ranie to truck with ihe. hlii|)s. This visit was made the [(receding midnight, I- uil«l('iiu'ss of most wintry iispoct, flic smoko of many a hearth WW* SLMit lip I om sonic very populous hamlet. Thi' wind in- creas-ed with heavy showers of snow and blect, and became a stronj; gde as the .sliip came in siujlit of the Trow Islands : the ^^we1I of the sea occasioned by tlic wind, grew to an unusual licight : Ihe ship continued stceriiii; under reefed topsails for Jlickiion's !>iiy, as well for shelter, as for the purposes of the V())d'rc : llie v.ater a very deep brown colour ; and, as it breaks upon the berfj;s, exhibits a reddish brown hue. 'J'lie Frow Islands have been so named from the voyage of Davis, who is said to have first discovred those Lmds, and met with many Greenland women there in boats ; frow and woman beinj; the Enijlish and Dutch terms whi.li respectively desi^mate the sex. The greater num- ber of tho.-^e islands are low iind flat ; but many much lare;er are ot'ten invested with clouds : (cirrostratus ;) at which time, from their extreme irregul.irity, scenes worthy of the strains of Ossian may be witnessed. The interior of this part is totally unknown, as the njii; ters of whale ships, either from their owners' orders, tir tlieir own experience of danger, will never approach near to any ilat haul, unless pieviously well known ; the transilion from a low i-'l.tnd to a sunk'-n rock beinii sudden. The Frow Islands arc a favourite summer retreat of the Uskees ; and there they construct their hunting tents during .lune, July and August ; al- ways retiring to some sheltered situation on the higher lands, to remain for the winter. Jui;e 27 : ther. 32= . .31 % 30° : wind W. S. W., fresli bree/e : sailed through a safe passage, betvveen the outward islands, into an extensive bay, at least (ifleen miles over, north of the Frow Islands : latitude ob.served, 73 4' N. : the southern extremity r- . ■nn i I A NORTH-WKST PASSAfJK. ir»;j it' such expression be correct al this place and date, where there is no ni^ht whatever. The Dane was dressed in the Uskee costume, and was very roininu- nicative. Others of tlie natives came in the course of the day fortiie ptn-poses olharter. Some ofthesf were boys; and one, of Norweirian descent, had all the of this bay I supiiose to hv tlie Hope Saundorsoii oirormor voy- aajtrs ; it is dislinguisliable l»y . n'm.irkabli> rock above a low inland, which rock has a diamond sununit : as this rock came into view in tlie forenoon, just as tlie snow storm liad bo<;un to clear, it formed the centre of a hmdscape siny;ularly ;^rand. To tho right, southward, lay the Frow Islands in endless variety of shape and distance, with volumes of fog rolling slowly over their crai;gv summits ; Saunderson's Hope rising in tlio middle, sometimes belted with mist, soon after capped with the same transient orna- ment ; and to the left, sweeping eastward ind northward, the bay to which I have, in compliment to the owner of the Thomas, as- signed the name of MarsliaTs Bay. Twenty-one ships diversified the incc of this ample and secure refuge. Their figures scattered in every direction, som*' laid to, others moving about, in a space of fifteen miles every wa; , of safe, deep water : many, though near, shut from the view at times by bergs of miles in extent, whilst all wastrancpiil and free of danger, were, with the land view, circumstances to render the scene of deep interest. June 28 : ther. 34', 11', .'31' : wind S. by K., light breeze : this morning clear and l)right : light Itakes of cirrostratus in the southern region, in strong contrast with the horizon, which was of stormy blue : this indication would portend a storm : here now every breeze is huslied, as if" nature" were endeavouring to get rid of her icy load : a lazy irregular train of cirrostratus, to the northward, creeps along the summits of the land at a very low de- gree, or meeting the obstruction of some greater eminence, clam- bers up the rock, then tumbles down the opposite side unwillingly. The chain pf islands forming Marshars Bay is, in general chn- 20 I. i i r Ji if ^ i.>j ON TIIK KKFKf'TING OF erect (ij^urc and fair complexion of a El r'-j^ean. One of these, said to be the son ofiho former ..ov^rnor, a handsome interesting lad, also hrought articles of dress to exchange among the ships. lie evidently had a superior manner to his companions, but exhibited an eagerness, etjiiai to theirs, to benefit by the visit f»f I racter, low find rounded ; and no |icr|HttidicuIar, or Hiiarp front is visible. Bevond the bosom of the bay may be seen more elevated land, with peaked summits ; but, as in the view of the land near Joris Bay, in no instance docs it rise to the table level of Disko. This would lead to a far different conclusion from that drawn by a geologist of eminence. If peaked mountains be always granitic, that of Tenerifle should be so ; the southern mountains of Green- land ought to be of the same material ; so should that along the coast down to Joris Bay, and Koll Reef. But the wildly torn ma- terials of the Greenland coast seem to defy such speculation. Greenland has its peaked mountains, not of granitic substance superiorly, but as at Disko, where the land is high and level, gene- rally trap, floetz trap, or feltspar, with all the intermediate quartzy combinations, and such changes of colour, as the hitherto unex- plained occurrence of metallic presence may occasion. Yet sup- pose one endeavouring to determine, from a distance, their exist- ence, as being granitic, from a view of their conical summits, a desire to ascertain the universal application of this dogma to the northern regions should induce a more satisfactory inquiry. It is not at the Cape of Good Hope, where tliere is table land, nor at Teneriffe, which is much higher, nor in the Hebrides, nor Orkney Islands, nor in Iceland or the Shetland Isles, that granite is to be traced by peaked eminence. The aggregation of that rock must depend upon other principles than those of elevation ; and which- ever theory maintains that aggregation best, is most entitled to re- spect. Invariably near the highest mark of tide in this bay, the feltspar rock, of yellowish red, is present ; and above it, the gray- brown basalt. By an observation taken this dav, the clearness of the atmos- i ill A NORTH-WEST l'AS.^A(iF i5rt the ships. This youth was also drawn by dogs on a miserable looking slt'd«^c, fortned nidoly of broad laths, covered with a seal-skin as a seat, which was scarcely raised above the sinfacc of the snow. None but the youth last mentioned wore any tiling as covering for the head. He had a cap neatly formed of dog-skin, A phcre afforHing an opportunity, the latitude of the ship was found to bo 73'' II' N., rorrespoiuhu!^ nearly with the northern extre- mity of Berry's island, which lies westward of the bay above- mentioned : the latest observation of the tliermometer, this day, is standard of atmospheric heat for the nine hours subsequent to meridian time : a breeze from N. l). rather freshens, .ind is likely to be constant : laras maximus on wing : a pair of monodon mono- ceros, and afterwards a large herd of dc-lphinus leucas, accompa- nied by their young, of which another group came from the ice, now descending rapidly from the northward : some whales seen : ship proceeding to the northward, in company with thirty-four others. At a distance of about eight leagues from land, after leav- ing the bay above-mentioned, the northern extremity of the bay showed many islands scattered in the horizon, and ending, on their southernmost extremity, in a bluff head, beneath which lay a low island : north of this, the land arose somewhat even and low, with an elevated subcorneal mountain in the middle of the line observed. June 29: ther. 32°, 34°, 33° : wind N., light airs : atmos- phere alternately clear and clouded with cirrostratous haze : some faint instances of linear cirrus pointing E. and W. : extreme- ly minute acicular snow is at times observable : about eight p. ni. the wind shifted towards E., but northing a little : previously the atmosphere was suffused with cirrostratus of the tlimsiest kind : every breath of wind lulled to a dead calm : tlie ice streaming off insensibly with the current : the whole scene was characteristic of tranquillity, heightened in effect by the numerous fleet lying about in every point with all sail"* loose and inactive : to this siic- 'i ii I 156 ON THE EFFECTING OF but was ready to part with it for an equivalent, and Avould be content to return home barehead hke his companions. There ^'as ". hunch-back among the number about fourteen years of aj^e. There was no ditierence whatever in their dressos. Lievely is distant from Love Bay, or Okl Lievely, \ ccedecl a dense misil, which hmileil the circle of view to about a hundroil yards. .lune.'JO : thcr. 31'. .34', 33° : wind N. E., fresh breeze : fog intensely thick, but bri<;ht : Berry's Island near, lat. 73° 10' N. : this island takes its name from the master of a whale ship, who, havinsi been unsuccessful in his voyage for several years, ventured alone into this latitude, where the immense number of whales s;ave him the means of filling his ship with ease : his good fortune continued for several years, until others of his acquain- tance, having discovered the secret, Ibllowed his track, when the whales shifted from the unexpected annoyance, and retired fur- ther to the northward ; Berry erected a rude obelisk, which still remains upon this island : there are many dangerous rocks at the southern and northern extremities of Berry's Island, from which it would be adviscable to keep a ship safely distant : a shoal of dcl- phinus leucas, wilh their young in company, passed the ship : procellaria glarialis numerous : larus eburneus and tridactylus ; also colymbus troile, and a pair of sterna hirundo : fog continues to the end. .July 1 : tlu-r. 24% 33°, 30' : wind N. E., light breeze : the fog continues still very dense, leaving a deposit of minute icy par- ticles, whicl), accumiii iling, formed aculeated crystals, resembling very exactly the tlidiiH on the ulox (fur/c) : being in the vicinity of ice, during this day, the atmospliere continued in a lov/ degree of temperature ; yet, to the sense, the cold was not severe ; procellaria glacialis, colymbus troile, and a shoal ofdelphinus leu- cas : the latter is not an object considered worthy the pursuit of the whalers, as being infinitely less productive than the Bal. mys- (icetus ; besides they look upon such employment as (piite inade- i •.r -t •X 1 A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 157 eight miles. There is a buryin2;-groun(l above the latter in a very romantic valley, whore some Dutch sailors, who happened to die by drowning, have been interred. The natives use much caution in the inter- ment of their dead, by wedging together large stones over the grave, which is commonly in the cleft of a 'i q'late to balance the exponne : for this reason they merely amuse themselves looking on at the sam!)ols ol'that beautiful animal. July'-' : ther. 'ice ol comoid cirrus at noon : the change of position of the ship was owing to the drifting of the ice, which now began to descend very rapidly, and it would l»e extremely dangerous to remain within its course ; for which reason the ships in general sought llie •^heller of the islands, which might ward oil' the mis- chief : this being field ice, with a few bergs interspersed, was easily set to the westward as it came in contact with Borrv's, and the outer Frow Isl mds : sterna hinindo, larus maximus, colymbus grylle, and procellaria glacialis : the wind southing a little of cast this evening, some rain fell. .July 3: ther. 32% 46% 36= : wind S. S. W., steady fresh breeze : cloud, cirrostratus, gathering up from mist, and creeping along the horizon at a small elevation in dark brown, loosely compacted beds ; rain at times falling, al times evanescent snow ; the land to the southward of llorsehcad abreast: a shoal of finners, about twenty in number, passed the ship, going with immense speed to the southward : a llock of cor- vorants (pelecanus carbo) Hew towards land : larus maximu«, and procellaria glacialis; the latter journeying singly, but numerous- ly, to the northward : about noon a calm succeeded, which continu- ed for some hours, when the wind sprung up at N. I)., faintly in- creasing : latter p:irt hazy • passed ;. berg which stood above the \ V IM' 138 ON THE EFFECTING OF rock, to prevent the bears and foxes from digging up the body. A notion prevails among the masters of the whale ships, that every disappointment and unfavour- able accident of the voyage would ensue were they to permit any curious person to fetch the skull of a Green- lander aboard ; and so strong is this absurd impres- surface of the sen at an elevation of about ^00 feet perpendicular ; flaws of ice all around : lat. 73= 15' N. July 4 : ther. 32% 34°, 32' : wind N. E., strong breeze : the greater part of this day the weather continued chill and thick : about eight p. m. it cleared up and afforded a view of thirty sail, moving in various courses among the ice, which by the wind and tide has been broken into streams : very little northing has been obtained this day, in consequence of the contrary wind, and the descent of the ice, which it required much skilful management to keepclearof : sterna hirundo plying his delicate pinion ; whilst the procellaria glacialis seemed quite at ease, cleaving the breeze without apparent effort. July 5: ther. 32°, 38°, 35' : wind S. E., fresh breeze : the vapour, on the changing of the wind, became converted into rain, which fell incessantly for nearly twelve hours, when at ten a. m. the clruJ assumed all the various forms of cirrostratus, from th< light brown vapour to the densest streak : Horsehead on the shipV beam distant six miles. J t ) Along this coast the land appears in no place Hat or level, neither is the elevation of a.,y part considerable ; but the iron-coloured rock dips at once into the sea, which is here of unknown depth A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 159 i>'um on the minds of those men, whose habits arc fami- har with the most disgusting scenes of slaughter, that tlie utmost uneasiness is signified lest such a shocking purpose should be effected. The heat of the sun reflected from the snow and ice, and also from the face of the rock, is intolerable ; and 'K^ Numerous islands lie at various distanr .is from each other, forming little bays and inlets. Horsehead, so called from some fancied re- semblance, is one of these islands, beyond which is Hickson's Bay, which is very well sheltered and capacious, running very deep with- in the islands, and having a fine open entrance. Horsehead is the southern extremity of Hickson's Bay. The whale hunters give the name of Frow Islands to all the islands northward of the seven- ty-third degree ; and to every recess, no matter how distinct from each other, they assign, in eijual error, the name of Hickson's Bay ; but the one now mentioned is that properly so called. This bay derives its name from the master of a ship, who was very successful in killing whales within it. They formerly resorted to this bay in great numbers ; but from the repeated persecution of the whalers, they are seldom seen now in any continuance there. .Sugar-Loaf Mountain appears very high over *' :; islands on the north ^ide of Hickson's Bay.* After passing last mentioned bay.astring ofislands irre<;ularl\ ■; vated piescnt thems'^lves for a short distance, when a tine open : r! deep sound comes into view, with some peaked hills beyon' rt'EC'riN<; OK berg more than two miles in extent. This la the one, which, wlien speaking of the arctic ice, I mentioned, as affording evidence ol' being rent from the continent above the Linna^an Isles. The lofty columnar tops with which it is crowned, are nothing but the ridges remaining of the icy mass, which has been channelled snorter and more siiccoiuled a gra- commiinication with tho cloud : from the point in which the was sweeping his lowest arch, other radiatic sharp, came in response to the former, to win dual but uninterrupted cl»ange of the radiations from the clotui into a reticulated form with recurved points : th.- cirrof umnlns also underwent a partial dissolution in the moan time ; the denser patches descending in loose yellowish-brown cirroslratu". I have been thus particular in detailing the circuins^tancos of this phenomenon, as 1 am not aware that the like has been before ob- served by any person else. Of its utility the philosophic reader may possibly form a better conclusion than I can presume to do ; yet as many such may not have the opportunity of witness.ing the like, from the difficulty of access, whilst on the spot I felt it my duty, in the cause of science, to record wliat I had observed. July 7: ther. 42°, 4G = , 32= : wind N. E., nearly calm: the radiation from S. W. still coiuinues (10 a. m.) undiminishe«l and very beautiful : in the zenith comoid cirrus, and purplish-brown cirrostratus suddenly forming in the horizon around : the wea- ther delightfully fme ; at noon the atmosphere became cloudless, the radiation having previously undergone a sudden solution into ?: milk-white hazy sufl'us-ed state, and disappeared : the great berg last noticed not far distant ; at one p. m. a single stream of cirrus sprung from S. VV. appearing to embrace the opposite ]»oint of the horizon, at wh'ch m u.ent I observed the thermometer at the de- gree noted as Jaghest, and almost instantaneously a thick fog ad- vanced from th-v northward. At four p. m. the cirrus streamers increased in the same direc- tion as the former, seemidg to issue from an invisible corona in the !5. VV, under which lay a reddish-brown mist of <.irrostia(iis. M m i& A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 163 hy the annual torrents, tliat tumble from that extra- ordinary accumulation of confjealed water. Neitlier does it require any of those "convulsions of nature," which sometimes shake the Andes, to cause such a separation of the above huge block from the enor- mous original. The simple visitation of the sun, r I I In tho nortli-oast point, ;il an olovation of about tliirty dccfrees from the hori/on, a similar mist, with circular hasc, appeared to be the source of corrcspondin;j; streams of cirrus, which met the former in the zenith ; and the meetinj;, or intjsculalion, as such a union has been called, was jiroductive of cirrocumulus, which was im- mediately formed in llimsy patches : the cirrus streamers conti- nued throughout this day lixed in nearly the direction of VV. S. W. and K. N. K. which points correspond witli the ma2;netical varia- tion, observed on a meridian azimuth compass, by which I ascer- tained the variation to be somewhat beyond sixty-seven dei^rees north-west : latitude observed at noon 73° 46' N. At midiii;;ht the radiation ceased, and the south-western region was darkly clouded, to which the rich sun-light of the hourafl'orded a pleasing contrast: at this hour the burstini; of an ic^ berg rung upon the welkin for several minutes, with a report louder than that of the heaviest ordnance ■. thirty-two sail near : ship grappled in a flaw. July : ther. 32 = , 40°, 28° : wind N. E., fresh breeze : still anchored at the flaw, which shifts slowly to the southward ; a strong tide current setting in that direction : at noon the tide flowed rapidly to the northward, causing numerous eddies along the edge of the flaw : the course of the current by compass was N. E. which, allowing for variation, is nearly N. N. W. more westerly : the whole sky during the forenoon was covered with broad irre- gular masses of cirrostratus of a light brown colour : the procel- laria glacialis imusually active, which may be considered a certain indication of a strong wind ; also the kittiwake appeared in great number, and was very clamorous. At tour p. m. the masses of cumulostratus became confused into a uniform feature, varied gnly by a denser cloud of stormy blue, which lay sullen and stiJl a m~. .^"iiK I ^ * ^ 161 ON' THE EFFECI IMi OP every year, Aiils not to produce similar convulsions, and load the sea ^vilh ice bergs. But in the process of a few years, if such diminution continue, the sup- ply must cease, and some future Danish historian will again have to " ilee to the mountains*' to ascertain the origin of others. \r bi ' near the horizon in th.'! N. K. : soon aitorvvjirds the wind t^rew t^trong and inenacini; : the ship was then set free of the flaw, as a hituatioii near the ice is under such circumstances full of danger : up to the midnight hour it continued to blow a very strong gale, with a heavy sea. July 9 : ther. 33°, .54', 32° : wind N. E., strong breeze: c.irrostratus generally siilTuaed over the sky, at times richly illumi- nated by the sun-light : numerous bergs around : procellaria gla 'jialis, colymbus grylle, and Col. glocitans. July 10 : ther. 29°, 33°, 40' : wind N., nearly calm : atmos- phere thick, and minute acicular nnow falling : at noon more clear, when the snow ceased to fall, and the cloud became loose cirrostratus at a considerable elevation : a cumulostratus appeared in the eastward, where shortly afterwards land came into view : the presence of the latter cloud may be always considered as in dicating laiiJ, and tiiercforc the circumstance cannot be too strong- ly insisted on, and it is imperative on the navigator to know the form of this cloud well, and also to be aware of its indications ; proper cnro in this resptct may be a me;>ns of saving both th«' •^hip and seamen, or atVord a gratifying anticipation of expected land. The remark refers specially to the appearance of the cu- mulostratus in Davis's Strait : ursus maritimus, colymbus gloci tans, and larus eburncu'; ; the latter very active and plunging in the sea, probably at the clio retusa, which appeared very nume rous this day : wind at noon, soft light breeze at W. : afternoon the wind coming from S. W. with dark gray cirrostratus : to tht- northward, and close to th« horizon, lay a broad belt of deep yel- low intermixed with brown and red : this phenomenon is rare in Davis's Strait, but is frequent in the Spitzbergen seas : it is denomi % s A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 16^ Were the purposes of tlie voyage to allow advan* tage to be made of a short delay in Hickson's Bay, which we approached on the 5tli of July, a very valu- able acquisition might be obtained of cider down ; the ducks of that species frequenting the low islands on the north side in countless numbers, for the pur- ul liS^ uatcd field blink, being; present uhcrever a continuous tract of bergy ice occurs. July 11 : ther. 32% 40% 33= : wind N. by W., light breeze : cirrostratus grayish-brown, thinly diffused, which as it passes over the zenith admits of a view : cirrus and cirrocumulus at a vast height above, apparently in the most tranquil state. The water is intensely blue : at noon a well-marked nimbus appeared ad- vancing from the northward : latitude observed 74° 4'i' N. : the yellow blink still visible : the sun-light passing through the denser parts of the cirrostratus in the south-west, the cloud in places be- came intensely bright, and very painful to the sight, so that the eye would be less distressed gazing on the luminary itself: pro- cellaria glacialis, colymbus glocitans and troile, larus eburneus. July 12 : ther. 33' , 40°, 28 = wind variable, at times calm cirrostratus generally dill'uscd : some whales seen ; also a mono- don monoceros of great size : two groups of seals in emigration passed to the northward : numerous flocks of colymbus glocitans at a very great elevation passing in the same direction : at noon the zenith clearing : extensive cirrocumulus of snowy whiteness appeared above : at the same time a berg, not far distant, burst with a noise resembling thunder, which continued heavy and long in reiteration over the ice : an immense flaw is descer Jing rapidh iVom the northward : larus maximus and eburneus, colymbu? grylle, P. glacialis. July 13 : ther. 30°, 49", 32' : wind N., light and variable : the sun obscured with grayish cirrostratus : the weather delight- fully fine : a female whale killed : the longest lamina (whale- bone) measured nine feet ten inches : clio retusa, and many spo <:ies of medusa, are vevv numerous in these waters : at tfn a. m. M 166 o^ iiiL tii'Lirii.NCJ oi pose of reai"mi( tlieir youDg. As the care of tin; pa- rent bird is so great, that it will devest itself of its own soft eovering to guard its young against the in- clemency of the climate, the nest may, to such as seek it, alford a good su[)j)ly of that very va!ua^]e material : one island alone, as I have been correctly informed. I i ' N I*: i H 1 I ! \ \ '■\ ) 1 I % .1 ' ( 7, 1 t- 1 .■•« I: \ 11- tho iviiid c1i!iiis;ril to VV. S. W,, liu;lil breeze : sokh afh-r the tluu niomf'tcr iiulicated lorty-nine, >vlirn tlio }!;Iiiss was i ovcicd with coiukmsed vapour in drops : cirror.uriiuliis in snowy exhibition de'-orated the zenith : latitude olworved at noon 74° 45' N. : at this time tlie wind came IVom the southward, tVosli bree/.e : many flaws of ice around. .Tuly 14 : ther. <^2\ 38 = , .{0' : wind N. E., strong hreeze : weather clear, with cirrncuniuhis at a s^reat elevation, and rirros- tratus in profile in the south : at ten a. tn the clouds showed signs of land, and at noon the summits of four islands came in sight ; at this hour a heautiful display of cirrus radiation * ocrurred, dart- ing through tlie cirrocumulus hold, which underwent instantaneous tlissoliilion : roiymbus glocitans in numerous flocks, enlivening tho dreary sf^ne with its busy bustling llight and cheerful notes : a fog indicalcil l)y a light gray stratus in N. and W . July 15: ther. 3G = , 42% 34° : wind N., light ))reeze. July It) : ther. 3G', 48 = , 38= : wind N. E., light breeze : the ship advancing towards land on a S. E course, came in with an extensive tield of ice reaching to the Linna^an Isles : this held was interspersed with numerous bergs, and appeared unbroken for leagues in extent, east and west. The stale of cloud this day, beautiful cirrocumulus, and tlimsy comoid cirrus, tho j>oints of which were scattered in every direc- tion : the atmosphere to the northward unclouded, and sky of a pearly blue hue : a pair of burgomasters on wing : colymbus grylle and colymbus glocitans in associated and numerous flocks : several of the monodon monoceros came from under the tield of •* Corro.-pondiiit^ with the nia^iiciic variation very fiiacHy. tl A NORTH-WKST I'A>^ \(;r. I(i7 tilt! pa- f o( iU the in- as seek atciial : ilurmctl. l^iitiisliiiig several pounds ot^louii. Ik^sidos, the old birds arc so anxious for the safety of their pro<:;eiiv as to be rcf:;ardless of their own, ^-o that they are made an easy f^poii to the marksman, 'i'he skins of the anas niollissirna, as 1 iiavo before notieed, are itt verv high estimation. the thoi crcil with exhibition 5' N. : al ze : many \ - ; the an Mnusnally hot : the con- tinent of ice distinctly seen .tittwh' t)bservod at noon T.j"" 17' N. : lariis maximiis and dclphinus K'ucas in jrroat number : colymbu'* glocitans in lar^f tlocks, sometimes flyini; very hi!j;h : an odd ro lymbns troile a})peared ; and col. grylle in parties of live : few seals seen. .July 18 : Ihcr. 18 = , 12% .'^2' : wind N. E., li.j;ht air : the -tate of atm'isphere still the same, and not a speck of cloud to bt' seen : at noon a briirht fo^ bank arose in the south-west, which afterward extended itself over the whole sky, verifying the asser- tion, that it is observed to move against the wind : a procellaria glacialis appeared entirely white : larus maximns anil eburncus : the monodon aj/peared in creat number this day, and the Thomas's men siiccrodod in killing one male and two females : the latter were destitute of the tooth : they are always taken without that instnunent, which is solely conferred on the male either for orna- ment or aimovance : the male monodon measured tVom snout to tail fourteen feet : (he horn six feet eight inches : there was also a minute one in the left socket, but not projecting beyond the skin ; thre« fnmers passed near the ship ; (hey seemed about forty feet in length each : a female whale (bala'ua myslicetus) killed this day, measured sixt}' feet : it received the harpoon but once, and dived away under the ice, drawing down three boats' lines, being 1080 fathoms, and died at the l»ottom : immense groups of the oniscus ceti attached to the under lip, and to the under part of the tins : the f'dge of the fleshy covering, embracing \ "4 m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 |i.6 4 6" ► V] v^ /. /A 'W 7 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (71«) 873-4503 ,\ iV :\ \ L\ c>

grylle, the latter observed to be in pairs : the Linnsean Isles at midnight still in view, distant about seven leagues : many ships, live particularly, are at the same time danaierously circumstanced amongst packed ice to the vsrestward. July 20 : ther. 45", 52", 48" : wind N. E., light breeze :• ship stationed nearly as the preceding day : those ships which were to the westward succeeded in getting clear from the ice, which other- wise would have inevitably crushed them to pieces : the object of the masters, in going so far in that direction, was to intercept the whale in his progress east and west : and in this respect not one of them had success, the ships which remained the most to east- ward having killed a good many. Latitude observed at noon 75° 8' N. : larus eburneus, and co- lymbus glocitans, few throughout this day : procellaria glacialis also few in number : it would seem as if these birds had proceeded to the southward warned by the indications of the season, which, to human observation, are not so discernible as to those migratory animals. From the great number of the monodon monoceros seen and killed in view of the Linnaean Isles, I have marked the place upon the chart " Unicorn Bay." At eight p. m. some very light cirrus appeared in the zenith, and towards S. E. : larus maximus and colymbus grylle came into view frequently in the course of the evening : the water in Unicorn Bay is of the colour of the bay-leaf, and crowded with moUusca : the tide setting strongly, as heretofore, observed north and south by compass : at a later hour the cirrus changed into cirrocumulus, evidently communicating with loose patches of cirrostratus lower down : ship laid to by the flaw, as on the 17th current. July 21 : ther. 34°, 48'\ 42'* : wind, a perfect calm : at thre** o.o ■*-;■;■ m 1^ 170 ON THE EFFECTING OF rects the monster only to escape. If ever struck be- fore, memory, and the dread of such another attack, excite alarm at the presence of a boat, when the flur- ry in which the animal endeavours to make off is at- tended with extreme danger to the pursuer, particular- ly if a number happen to be in company when one is \ ii ^<; a. tB. this morning a most miisnificent display of riuliation occurred, of which a sketch has been attempted. The cirrus radiation here remarked is always observed to issue from a body of detached clouds, assuming the form of an arch. Whether this curved ar- rangement be actually in a portion of the circumference of a circle, or merely an optical delusion, I will not undertake to assert, bul the curve invariably appeared to me arched, as I have related: the basis arch of the phenomenon which occurred this morning was of amazing span, embracing several leagues of sea, the central radius passing through the horizon in nearly E. by N. per com- pass ; which corresponds closely with the point of variation. The radiation darted rapidly and irregularly towards the opposite point of the sky, in pale white spires. The atmosphere in the southern region immediately became sufluscd with whitish brown cirrostra- tus. Soon afterwards various beautiful changes to minute cirro- cumulus and comoid cirrus were observable. Within the arch lay a long linear bed of cirrostratus, almost black, which preserved a horizontal position and unaltered form during the radiation and the changes mentioned. In the space of three hours from the lirst appearance, the whole was dissolved and dissipated, leaving the atmosphere free of visible cloud, but not quite clear, being of a milky blue. 1 should not have intruded upon the reader's notice the detail of this radiation, had I not been convinced, by repeated observations, that there exists a close, it may be said a direct, cor- respondence between its appearance and the variation of the needle. From what cause this singular coincidence proceeds, it will still longer I fear remain to be explored. The facts, how- ever, which are herein exhibited, may be relied on for the accu- rncy and fivithfulness of report, and may induce some enlightened i, P' k ■ 7 A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 171 struck, the fujjitivcs beinj; then most dansrerous. A pair also engaged in the daUiancc of nature are dan- gerous to be approached, as happened in the case of the one above mentioned being killed : her compan- ion at the same time being struck, both wounded de-i scended to the bottom, and rose again to seek each and able mind to study a satisfactory illustration of the phenome- non. It is right also to inform the reader, that during the forma- tion and continuance of the radiation, no irregular motion of the compass was observable ; the entire process appearing to go on at an elevation far too great to admit of any influence on the needle. The state of cloud, its being invariably a base of distinct cirrostra- tus in a curved chain, the radiation always issuing as it would ap- pear from behind the cirrostratus, and having a cirrus consistence, and all those appearances being usually succeeded by a wind from the opposite point, besides the correspondence with the variation, are circumstances well worthy of the philosopher's attention. At noon the sky became free of every speck of cloud, when a light breeze from the W. by S. carried the ship slowl}' to the eastward : light cirrus formed : latitude observed 75" 12' N. .July 22 : tber. .33", SS'^, .34" : wind very variable : from mid- night the wind blew furiously from S. W. a strong gale ; changed at noon to N. W. light air with fog : about six p. m. a light breeze from W. converted the fog into light rain : in the evening later the wind became very variable, inclining to northward, with rain ; at ten p. m. the wind coming to N. E., the upper atmosphere cleared, and exhibited cirrocumulus ; no birds ' be seen, but an odd mallemuck going southward. The state of this day is full of those indications that mark the ne- <:essity of ships proceeding to the southward, about this date, and even sooner. The Tiiomas was the last ship that moved off ; the rest of the fleet, except a few, having some days since depart- ed. The greatest apprehension of danger arises from the presence of fog, in which, if a vessel become involved, and carried by the current among the packed ice and bergs, there is little chaoce of M' ■ > 172 ON THE EFFECTING OF other, when a boat belonging to the ship wliich struck the male whale was dashed to pieces by a jerk of the tail: the men were however saved by a boat which happened to be near. The female died at the bot- tom, and, on being hauled up with the line, the under jaw was covered with yellow mud. The weather during the early part of the 15th of July, equalled in fineness that experienced in the tem- perate latitudes at the same date, the sun-light being exceedingly strong : a slight mist came on just before noon, but soon cleared away. The ship laid to near the flaw edge, afforded a very distinct view of the iiilands, which, as the accounts of the most experi- enced navigators inform me, have not been seen before. I therefore presume to give them the name of the Lin- naean Isles, in honour of the prince of natural historians. The atmosphere, at noon, being obscured by a fog, €: I 1i Vf v-^ I', I • ■ . ' "I fi ''# '! avoiding destruction : neither can the utmost vigilance guard against such a visitation. The winds heing now, usually, very variable, the state of the weather may in the course of an hour change from clear and fine to that of the thickest fog. July 23 : ther. 34', 44°, 38° : wind E., light breeze : from the midnight hour the breeze continued steady till noon, freshen- ing a good deal in the early part of the day : cirrostratus in every species covering the sky : at a little before noon, the whole cloud, passed into general suflusion very rapidly, and became very at- tenuated : at noon a splendidly white fog bank lay immensely along the b.nd in the north-east, the low tops being then just visible above the horizon : the fog bank came onwards, slow but unim- peded in progress, involving all the lower objects in interminable obscurity, and shutting up an elegant display of cirrocumulus, rest- ing apparently on cirrostratoug beds, which had previously formed in an elevated position. _j^ I %., A NORTH-WEST I'AShAOE. i7:j very cloud at- sely sible nim- able rest- roed which advanced from the eastward, presented an ob- servation. The mist in the afternoon appearing rather shallow, the upper atmosphere being mostly clear, I was induced to ascend to the hurricane house, in hopes of seeing the land more satisfactorily, when a pheno- menon of novel character presented itself to view. The sun-light falling on the mist formed an ellipsis strongly illuminated, apparently rising from the surface of the sea to the upper edge of the mist, at an angle of about twenty degrees from the horizon. In this ellipsis the iridescent colours were not distinguishable. The inner edge was pearly white, with the faintest tinge of blue ; the middle yellowish, deepening into brown and purple ; the outer edge a blackish blue ; be- yond that, a brighter line ; outside of which again lay the cirrostratus mist in its peculiar brown. Within, the ellipsis was bounded by a deep blue line, and the inner space filled with mist of the same colour and il- lumination as the exterior. In one centre of the ellipsis my shadow appeared depicted, the head surrounded with a circle of the liveliest iridescence. Beyond this was another with similar iridescence; but the colours were reversed in order, and more faint ; the belts were also broader. One circumstance surprised me much : whilst the ellipsis rose at an angle from the horizon, the iris circle appeared depicted on the surface of the sea. No account of such a phenomenon having in my recol- lection been recorded, I thought it might be deemed worthy of consideration. The Linneran Islands run in a curve, bending west- 1 1 k 6i\ THE EFFECTTNG OF ward and northward, from the Greenland fside across Davis's Straits, and by their resistance prevent the descent of that amazing: accumulation of ice to which the name of icy continent is given. In the open spa- ces between the islands, the ice continent appears abruptly broken, as if large bergs had been detached in former years. There is also a sloping debris at the bottom similar to rock. The upper surface of the continent is torn in diverging channels, evidently worn successfully every summer by the dissolved snow. The great body of the polar ice rises as it extends northward ; and where it leans against the islands, it, in many places, out-tops them. The channels on this icy continent all, so far as they were visible, were di- rected southerly. Through the spaces between the islands, the bergs obtain a passage, and coming in con- tact with the rock, either when forced from their ori- ginal situation, or in their passage, they are frequently stained a brown colour. This the sailors call black ice. The general appearance of the Linnajan Isles is bare basaltic or floetz trap rock. They are in gene- ral small, two only being about ten or twelve miles in length. From my chart, which was made with the utmost accuracy, the number of these islands is eighty, lying at irregular but short distances from each other. One of the largest of the Linna^an Isles lies to the northward of the chain in the western extremity, and is of a conical form, much more elevated than the others, and is covered with snow. Many smaller islands lie grouped around, as well as to the south- ward of it, and at a very short distance from eac)l I M 1 \- m ^,H .\ NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 170 I act 1^ ^♦' other. This island is easily discoverable on the chart from its superior extent. Tlie latitude of the next larger island to the south- ward was found, by observation, to be 75" 3' N. ; and the variation determined the same time, by an azimuth compasiitaind corrected to the time at Green- wich, was exactly H2^". On the 16th, ten whales were remarked invariably running eastward and westward, out from the Green- land waters, and others again pursuing a contrary course. The whale hunters are so convinced of this, that they sail always in that direction when in high latitudes. Hence the obvious conclusion must be, that the further emigration of those animals north- Ward is limited to the Linnaean Isles ; and that too, from the impossibility of their obtaining a supply of air underneath the icy continent. Indeed, when a whale is struck, if it happen to run for the ice, the hunters are almost certain of its capture, as it must come out again for breath, when the boats, being ar- ranged along the edge of the field, are sure to be ready to repeat the blow the instant the animal re- appears. I saw one, whicb was so wounded, succeed in spying out a small hole within th >ce field, where scarcely more than the head had access to the air ; and there the creature rose in imagined security, at a great distance from the edge ; but the blowing soon exposed his situation, both from the sound, and the watery column driven up in respiration ; and the hun- ters having pursued across the ice to the spot, soon succeeded in despatching their victim. Among the whales, on the 20th, taken, there was a 9 T 176 ON THE EFFECTING OF S. t\ I in ii. young one, about half grown ; and as this circum- stance is rare in Davis's Strait, though frequently oo^ curring in the seas around Spitzbergen, it would strongly support the opinion that Greenland is termi- nable at a very low degree from the pole ; nor would this presumption be misapplied ifi||kKtended to the American continent, which reaches nftle, if at all, fur- ther northward than the latitude of the Linnsean Isles. In this sweep of the arctic region, some promontory may hereafter be found to violate the line such as Spitzbergen does ; but the fact of no land lying around the pole may be fairly presumed; and of this fact I have to adduce a weighty proof from the observations communicated by one of the masters who proceeded so far to the westward, being one of the five yesterday in danger. " After clearing the ice, all to the northwest was heavy open sea, the swell and current coming from that point, and no obstruction appeared against pro- ceeding as far north as he pleased : at all events, a hundred miles further (more than three degrees) were accessible." But as open sea presents little chance of meeting with the whalepin a state of rest, this per- son, mindful of his oath, deemed it adviseable to re- turn to the eastward. This part of the Journal will he useful in reference to our inquiry, when further considering the subject of the northwest passage. A lofty berg this day came in view, with a Gothic arch, at least 100 feet high, passing quite through one extremity ; the bottom of the arch was covered with the fragments that had fallen from the cavity above. Over the crown of this arch, a broad and heavy super- f i 'i ^ :n A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 177 ■#; structure of the icy mass sat suspended, ofrerin<:r an appearance of stability awfully deceptive; under which, were an antiquarian to stand takinii; a drawing from this extraordinary structure, very few persons of common caution would venture to ensure his life : the washing of the sea had worn a bay within the bosom of this berg, which bore strongly the semblance of land, and the ruins of the icy arch added forcibly to the deception. From the remarks in the preceding day's journal (to which the reader is referred) the approach of the fog bank, on the 23d of July, must have been contem- plated with much uneasiness. At a distance from the land, which at best could only relieve from the appre- hension of drowning ; in a latitude which forbade every hope of escape or prolonged life, were the ship to founder ; and well aware that the all-involving fog would have its ruinous elfects increased by any degree of breeze; it may not be exaggeration to say, that such a situation could by no means be considered en- viable. Having advanced further north than the ivhakrs (who are certainly most intrepid and daring naviga- tors) Ao^/ ever ventured before ; the circumstance also of the Thomas being the last to return, though some others were in sight ; and tlie apprehension that the wind coming from the southward, or westward of south, might set the yet undissolved ice again towards the inhospitable shores of Greenland, and so preclude the possibility of return, were matters for leilection little calculated to preclude aiarjn. Under those cir- cumstances, however, the discipline of the men, how- ever rude it may be considered, kept Qsevy mind on 23 i \\ I,: 178 ON riiE i:kfC(;ting of rf llio n] i- ?-■■ ,f f t^ why any portion of mankind would suffer that predi- lection to forbid removal to more genial latitudes, forms alone a topic for consideration of much in- terest. The migration of birds and other animals to high northern latitudes, their habits and pursuits in such situations as they frequent, their periods of re- turn southward, or emigration in other directions, furnish the mind with store for valuable reflection. All these points are comprised, and recorded as they occurred, in the Journal just submitted to the notice of the reader. The latter description of reader has now laid be- fore him for investigation a mass of facts in natural history, important in many points of view. To phi- losophic research I leave such inquiry, and the useful application of the results, in the hope that, from the heap, some deduction may be drawn of importance in the concerns of science and of mankind. Neither am I, in this regard, actuated by a desire to arrogate to myself any merit for furnishing those facts. It was my good fortune to fmo that the motives which urged me into those high latitudes were rewarded by having presented to my view many appearances in nature which were quite new to my observation ; and if they appear so to others, and prove of any benefit to socie- ty, my gratification will be multiplied. Some atmospheric phenomena, such for instance as are recorded in the preceding Journal, have not, in the extent of my reading, come previously within my knowledge ; and particularly that of the cirrus radia- tipn, which bears a correspondence with the mag- netic variation ; if an;^ of my readers consider with it '4» A^ A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 183 »t * me, that these are new In description, and tliat they can furnish any useful results, then I shall not. consider my time and anxiety thrown away. In this pursuit I went unbidden and unsolicited ; and should my inquiries, as I trust they will, afford either entertainment or profit to the general or philosophic reader, I shall consider such approba- tion a proper stimulus to contribute my humble mite, on every fit occasion, in aid of the cause of science. In giving publication also to the result of my in- quiries in the arctic seas, I have to boast of a loftier motive : viz. the deep concern I feel in the cause of humanity. Having learned lately that an expedition is preparing to set out for those seas, with intent to explore a north-westerly passage, by a polar route, into the North Pacific Ocean, I should deem myself culpable in withholding from the public at large, as well as from the projectors of that undertaking, such par- ticulars of the natural state of the higher northern latitudes, as I had, during the course of last summer, a full opportunity of observing. With that view, therefore, I drew the reader's at- tention to the actual state of those countries during the summer months, when only the arctic waters are navigable • and, in the course of the Journal, a faitli- ful and accurate account of almost every hour's state of weather, wind and water is recorded. Those circumstances I have laid down as a basis for some observations, which I shall take an oj)por- tunity of submitting on the subject; which, from its importance, is worthy of the most serious considera- iff J i1 i8l OA THK EFFECTINO OF I !'>' * {;( ;,'■! tion, not only as it regards the safety of the indivi- duals engaged in the expedition, but as involving in its results matter of the \veisi:htiest interest to the trade and general commerce of Great Britain. The importance of this subject has long since at- tracted the attention of the autocrat of all the Russias, whose government, doubtlessly envious of the pre- ponderance of the power of Great Britain upon the ocean, seeks the most active and effectual means of anticipating her research to countries hitherto unex- plored by Europeans. It is well known that the Emperor Alexander has at this moment sonic vessels, under the command of Lieut. Kotzebue, who, having examined the islands in the northern Pacific, between Kamtschatka and the North American shores, is waiting: in some station near Behring's Strait, for the opening of the ice in the ensuing spring, in order to push his researches, if possible, across the polar seas into Davis's Strait, or directly forwards, should circumstances favour an enterprise of such adventurous daring, and reach by such attempt some port in the north of Russia. As this curious subject has long engaged public attention, it may not be improper in this place to take a cursory view of the attempts hitherto made to dis- cover a passage westward into the Pacific. The ac- count shall be as brief as possible. 4k a '$ '■■»% A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 185 trade CHAPTER VII. OF THE ATTEMPTS WHICH HAVE BEEN MADE TO DISCOVER A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. So early, it appears, was this subject of navigating the arctic seas entertained, with an expectation of ob- taining an intercourse with India in that direction, east or west, that in the year 901, Alfred the Great is said to have engaged a mariner named Other, a na- tive of Heligoland, to survey the coasts of Norway and Lapland, and to discover if any opening in a north-east direction would admit of a passage to India on that side. The navigator above mentioned, on his return, gave the monarch an account of the Norwe- gian and Lapland countries, and of the inhabitants, who subsisted by fishing and killing whales. A sub- sequent inquiry during the reign of the same prince confirmed the accuracy of Other's account. In the year 1497, John Cabot, a native of Venice, fired with a desire to imitate the example of Colum- bus, and encouraged by the merchaii't^ of Bristol, where he then resided, made an application to the King (Henry VII.) to be permitted to make a voyage of discovery across the Atlantic Ocean. His request was readily complied with, and letters patent furnish- ed him, but enjoniing strictly a return to the port of Bristol. That enterprising navigator accordingly 24 186 ATTEMPTS MADE TO DISCOVER u I,, II set sail ; and he appears to have been the original projector of the noith-west passage, after the ex- ample of Columbus, who, in a similar attempt at a southern latitude, had made his grand discovery of America. Cabot, inferring from the accounts of Columbus, that a probability might exist of the ocean being open to the northward, directed his course to the north- westward in this expectation ; and on the 24th of June discovered Newfoundland, which he named Pri- ma Vista or First-seen-land. Still actuated by his origi- nal intention, he sailed further to the northward, and discovered Cape Florida, where he found people al- ready established, answering exactly to the descrip- tion of the Uskee-mes. From this place he returned to England, carrying with him three of the natives, as a proof of success. Such an act, however, could not tend to impress that simple and harmless people with amicable feelings towards their visiters. In 1 52 1, tbe fame of Cabot's expedition encouraged some French merchants to send out a countryman of their own, named Jaques Cartier, to discover a north- west passage to the East Indies ; but it seems he penetrated no further than the Bay of St. Lawrence, and, otherwise unsuccessful, he returned home the same year. In the year 1536, the origin of the fishery on the banks of Newfoundland arose from a voyage made from Bristol, by Mr. Robert Thorne, a merchant of that place, who, with the King's permission, which on such occasion appeared indispensable, fitted out a ship at his own expense, and sailed to Newfoundland it^-M k M A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 18- with and Cape Breton, discovering the very valuable fishery of Newfoundland on his passage. By the dis- covery of Thorne, the naval and commercial pros- perity of England has been in a great degree promo- ted, the fishery, from its justly estimated importance, having down to the present day been firmly maiiitaiii- ed in British monopoly. Thorne made this great dis- covery merely by accident, as his purpose on setting sail was also to ascertain the possibility of a north- west passage. In the last year of Edward VI. and whilst that pro- mising young prince was confined to his death-bed by sickness, an expedition was planned, under the com- mand of Sir Hugh Willoughby, to prosecute a voyage to China by the north-east passage, if such could be ascertained. For this purpose three ships were fitted out ; but from the obstruction of the ice, though the ships set out in May 20, l^.'iS, Sir Hugh could ad- vance only to the seventy-second degree, and was there shut in, and obliged to winter in Russian Lap- land, where that intrepid adventurer and his crew most miserably perished, in consequence of the ex- cessive cold. One of the ships engaged in this uiifor- tunate expedition was more successful in getting through the ice, under the command of Capt. Chan- cellor, who passed the North Cape to the eastward', and got safely into the bay of St. Nicholas on the Russian coast, being the first European that had con-f ducted a ship into those waters. At the representations of Capt. Carleton, u on his return, the whale fishery was undertaken, and several H ;l 188 ATTEMPTS MADE TO DISCOVER ships were subsequently fitted out in that trade, which afterwards led to the discovery of Spitzbergen. In i/iSt), Capt. Stephen Burrough, promising him- self better success than was experienced in the un- happy voyage of Sir Hugh Willoughby, ventured upon a similar expedition ; but his attempt to discover a north-east passage was unavailing. Sir Martin Frobislier, in the year 1567, under the auspices of Queen Elizabeth, undertook to ascertain the existence of a north-west passage. The Earl of Warwick, in a spirit of patriotism, encouraged Capt. Frobisher warmly in this undertaking, and in conse- quence he sailed in June with two barks and a pin- nace, in this voyage the east coast of Greenland was seen in latitude 63° 8' N. He here discovered the strait, which he called after his own name. Here also he lost five of his men whom he set on shore ; and by a very unwise and unfair retaliation he seized upon one of the natives, and carried him away to England. That such proceeding was unjustifiable is evident from his being at the time in a state of uncer- tainty about the fate of his own men, whose lives, if spared by the natives up to the time in which the Uskee-me was seized, might probably have been pre- served, but such a proceeding could only produce the worst consequences. Captain Frobisher brought home in this voyage a piece of stone of a black colour, which some chemists of that day pronounced to contain gold ; and this event tended to recommend another expedition to the same place in quest of that precious ore. High expecta- *!*^ .M-" A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE* i»y tions were entertained that a most valuable discover v had been made on that occasion. Accordinj^iy, by the exertions of his patron, the Earl of Warwick, he was despatched in JOT? in quest of the land of gold ; and the better to secure success, he was provided with one of her Majesty's ships, at- tended by the two barks, lie again saw the land lying at the entrance of the strait, and called it Queen Elizabeth's Foreland. Havincr sent ashore to make strict search after his men, which proved he was doubtful of their fate, all inquiry was inelfcctual, and he hesitated not to carry off two men and one woman prisoners. Here he took on board a quantity of the ore, which afterwards, being carefully examined, turned out altogether worthless. The Queen was so much pleased with the account given of this voyage, ihat she called the supposed continent Meta Incognita. In l.')78, her Majesty oidered a grand expedition under the same commander. The fleet consisted of fifteen sail, carrying a colony of J 20 persons, who were to be left in the newly-discovered country, with three ships for their use. Materials of wood for build ing habitations for the colonists were provided alons: with other suitable supplies ; but a storm having over- taken the squadron, the ship carrying the materials for building foundered, and the undertaking so grand- ly begun ended in nothing; the fleet not having even been able to find the strait. Captain Frobisher was afterwards advanced to the honour of knighthood for the bravery with which he contributed to the destruction of the Spanish armada in 15a«. n ,«!' I «i«r ^i..- .(. lao ATTEMPTS MADE TO DISCOVER Fn the year 1 .180, the Russia Company fitted out two siji^js for the discovery of n north-cast passage. That undertaking proved unsuccessful and unfortu- nate, one of the sliips having been lost, and all on board pcjished. In 1.08.'}, the hope of finding the so much desired north-west passage indured Mr. Jolin Davis to under- take it, though so many previous attempts had failed. He took the precaution to avail himself of the expe- rience of Mr. Fenton, who had been encraired in for- mer voyages for the same purpose. Davis set sail on the 7th of June, and, on the 20th of July following, discovered tlie Island of Desolation on the west coast of Greenland, where he found the natives a civil, tract- able, and honest people. Having proceeded further to the northward, he discovered the strait which has been since called after his name. Steering west, he came in sight of the land on the American side of the strait, and called the lofty mountains which he there observed Mount Raleigh. In his second voyage, in 1.586, Capt. Davis advanced to latitude 60° 47' N. where he again saw land, but met much obstruction from the ice, which he avoided by running to the westward, and afterwards succeeded in reaching the .04° 15' of latitude, where he also found an inoflensive people. The land here appeared broken, with great sounds and inlets. Captain Davis was again sent out in the following year, when he penetrated to lat. 72** 12' N. where he discovered a great many islands ; and from the num- ber of women who were there, he named them the Women's or Frow Islands. A remarkable promontO" n i -¥ A NORTH-WF.ST PASSAGE. 191 i,: vy here he called Hope Sanderson. This was the greatest distance to the northward that Davis ever reached. Steerinpj westward from Hope Sanderson, he ran a distance of I'orty leagues, and again fell i[t with Mount Raleigh. Davis, to the last, remained confident of the practirahihty of a north-west passage. After tiie failure of Davis's attempt, all expeditions in search of a north-west passage were for some years suspended ; but the public mind in tiic interval was busily occupied with numerous pamphlets, and other publications, both for and against the possible execu- tion of such a design. In 1602, Captain George Weymouth made another effort, but with singular want of success. His attempt was not calculated to support the arguments of those who were in favour of the measure, and it was again abandoned. The intrepid, but unfortunate Hudson, next took up the subject, imagining that, by exploring the seas to the northward of Spitzbergen, he might have a better chance of success, by sailing towards the North Pole in that direction. With this view, in 1607, he sailed northward, and in latitude 73'* 12' he saw the land of Spitzbergen. He there observed the elevation of the sun at mid- night to be 10" 40' above the horizon : in this voyage Captain Hudson penetrated to 82** nearly, and thought to effect his passage to N. W. that way ; but an impenetrable barrier of ice forbade further pro- gress. In the year 1608 he again renewed his efforts iu the same sea, where he met with much difficulty from 102 ATTEMPTS MADi: TO DISCOVKH t f' the ice ; he then tried a N. E. passage, but without efl'cct. Another endeavour was made by tlie same j)cr.severing individual in KiO!) in the same quarter; but this ended as fruitless as tiio former. Defeat seemed to spur his exertions, and the fol- lowing year he set sail across the Atlantic, big with expectation, which was increased by his discovery of the strait and bay, on the North American side, which have been meritedly called after this inde- fatigable navigator. After having traversed much of that bay. Captain Hudson, a man of ardent mind, felt himself still not satisfied, and intimated an intention of looking out for some situation in which himself and his men mi[ ht continue in safety during the winter, but when the provision, which had been laid in only for six months' consumption, came to be examined, the stock was found nearly exhausted. Hudson melting into tears on observing the unhappy situation of his people, distributed all the biscuit among them, and this inconsiderate act of generosity was cruelly repaid by a mutiny. An ungrateful Avretch named Green, to whom the Captain had been re- markably indulgent, having conspired with the mate of the ship, and the majority of the crew, sent tho unfortunate man with his son, a youth, a Mr. Wood- house, who was an eminent mathematician, and five of the hands who remained faithful to their master, all adrift in the shallop. Those unhappy persons undoubtedly soon perished in that dreary region, as no account of them was ever after obtained. The ruffianly crew, with much diffi- culty, and in the greatest hardship, endeavoured to B-l- Mi \ NOIITII-VVKST I'ASSAdL. 193 ivithout c same Linitcr ; the fol- ig with very of ,n side, s inde- niich oC ind, felt ntion of and his ;er, but y for six le stock nhappy biscuit lerosity wretch een re- le mate ent tho Wood- d five of ter, all )enshed ^fasever ich diffi- ured to ■'it' return honir. and one only of the wretclies irvivod their attempt to recount tlu; melancholy tale. Thus tortninated the etVorts of [iy Hudson, a nma in every respect worthy of a better fate. ('aptain l),itton was afterwards sent out in the year 11)12, in hopes of recovering poor Hudson; and after encountering great dangers iit Huflson's Bay and Strait, having been, on one occasion, intercepted in the Strait by the ice, he lay with his ship locked up for twenty weeks' continuance ; he at length succeed- ed in extricating himself frotn his perilous situation, and returned home in tho utmost disappointment, without hearing any tidings whatever of Captain Hud- son, or having the least chance of finding the north- west passage. Captain Gibbons made a similar attempt in 101 i. and returned equally unsuccessful. In the year 1015, Captain Robert By lot, an experi- enced navigator, and one who was also well acquaint- ed with the causes of mischanjce in former expeditions, having sailed with Hudson, Button, and Gibbons, was appointed to make another trial for a north-west passage. Captain Bylottook with him the celebrated William Baflin to act as pilot in the arctic seas, for which duty he was peculiarly cjualified on account of his experi- ence in those icy regions, having been for many years engaged in the whale trade at Spitzbergen. In this voyage Bylot advanced no further north than the sixty-fifth degree of latitude in Davis's Strait. In the following year, (10 JO,) Bylot and Baffin pro- 25 "ih- 194 ATTEMPTS MADE TO DISCOVER r >^ k \ If::" ; ( ceeded to explore Davis's Strait, and succeeded in penetrating beyond the remotest advance of Davis, and the accounts say they even got up to the seventy- eighth degree, where Baffin observed the variation of the compass to be 65° W. which was then the great- est ever known. In this place those navigators came into an extensive sound, which they named Sir Tho- mas Smith's Sound, and which spread beyond the seventy-eighth degree. Standing over to the west- ward, they saw Cary's Isles, and afterwards the first sound on the American side, which Captain Bylot named Alderman Jones's Sound, and further south in lat. 74** N. Sir James Lancaster's Sound. The observations made by Baffin in the course of this voyage impressed him strongly with the convic- tion that the north-west passage was still feasible ; and he communicated his opinion to Mr. Briggs, the famous mathematician, who took much interest in the affair, and even made a chart* according to Baffin's information, which, with a discourse illustrative of the subject, was never made public. The persuasion of the feasibility of a north-west passage continued to hold an influence over the pub- lic mind so strongly, that in 1631, the King, (Charles,) * No chart has hitherto been pubhshed above the seveiit}' third degree of north latitude in Davis's Straits ; and I indulge a presumption, that the public will receive with some gratification a chart, carefully made by myself, affording a correct view of the coast of Greenland as far as the seventy-seventh degree, in- cluding the newly -discovered LianaBan Isles. Win ■M ;i A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 193 "* *m n >«f :f; on representation being made on the subject, gave his commands to Captain Luke Fox to proceed on the inquiry. His Majesty appeared so well satisfied of the practicabiHty of the undertaking, that he gave Captain Fox a chart on which the passage was mark- ed, and also a letter written by himself to be deliver- ed to the Emperor of Japan as soon as the Captain had effected his voyage into the eastern seas. Fox, like his predecessors, roamed about in Hudson's Bay, unable to find out the expected passage, and returned home without accomplishing his mission, but still cer- tain that a passage could be effected through some yet undiscovered opening in the northern extremity of Hudson's Bay. Captain Fox drew his conclusions, to that effect, from the state of the tide in a distance of 250 leagues which he had traversed. " It is inconceivable," he says, " how such a vast quantity of water should be recalled and repaired every twelve hours, if it were not fed and supplied from some great and vast ocean, alluding to the northern Pacific. Captain James, of Bristol, sailed to Hudson's Bay the same year as Captain Fox, aiid discovered several islands, but was nearly shipwrecked in some sliallovv soundings, with a rocky bottom, into wluch he had unexpectedly run. His researches for tiie north-west passage were unsuccessful. During the same year the Danish £;overnment sent out a ship in the same pursuit, and the result was similar to those already experienced. In 1653* the Danes, unwilling to make a second experiment in Hudson'^* Bay, projected a design of /-, 196 ATTEMPTS MADE TO DISCOVER i .,1 W <.. If ( passing in a north-east course, through the W aygate Strait, south of Nova Zembia, and by that way to at- tempt a passage to India. The obstructions they ex- perienced from the ice compelled them to abandon the undertaking, and they were forced to return as unsuc- cessful as former adventurers. In the reign of Charles II. anno 1676, the Duke of York, afterwards James II., who was ever attentive to maritime concerns, at the advice of Lord Berkeley, ordered a ship to be fitted out, the command of which was given to Captain Wood, who was directed to sail in company with one of the King's ships, for the pur- pose of discovering a north-east passage to India. But this, like former expeditions, was frustrated by the ice, which prevented the ships from advancing beyond the seventy-sixth degree north. The misfor- tune of shipwreck was added to disappointment, as the King's ship came foul of a sunken rock and foundered. This accident damped the expectations of those who advocated the design, and the thing was pronounced impracticable. The spirit of adventure, however, it appears, was not yet quite subdued, as Captain Barlow was after- wards sent out in the year 1720, by a company of pri- vate persona, to seek a passage to China through some opening in Hudson's Bay. The undertaking cost the Captain and crew their lives, the ship having been cast away in about the latitude of 63® N. when every person on board perished. Another unsuccessful attempt was made by Capt. Scroggs in 1722. Like all the former adventurers. he failed in accomplishing his object. ^^.^ .-"V .4» A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 197 In order to rectify all the supposed errors of pre- ceding voyagers, Mr. Dobbs took the pains of collect- ing the amplest information on the subject, and drew up his views of the matter, in which he largely ex- amined the nature of the currents, tides, and the other circumstances which appeared necessary to illustrate the subject. Mr. Dobbs having communicated his information to Capt. Middleton, a gentleman, like most of his con- temporaries, enthusiastically involved in the question of the north-west passage, the undertaking was again resumed. In order the more eflfectually to ensure success, Capt. Middleton sailed from Churchill River, in Hud- son's Bay, in the year 1741, where, by order of the Admiralty Board, he had been ordered to winter, that, by being so near to the expected place, the greatest possible advantage might accrue to the in- quiry. The ships employed on this occasion were two sloops of war. The expectations attached to this undertaking also proved fallacious, as Capt. Middleton found it impos- sible to proceed further north than 66" .'JO' of north latitude, and returned to England greatly disappoint- ed, and determined to oppose a project which he con- sidered visionary and impracticable. In consequence of the representations of Capt. Middleton on the subject, the public opinion was much divided ; yet so firmly was Mr. Dobbs convinced of the truth and strength of his positions, that he hoped by perseverance to eilbct an object, for which, by If 198 ATTEMITS !\I\l)t, TO DlSCOVb'Ji i. 'i i if' . 1 ; \ ■.if ,:i much cherishing, lie IjaJ contracted an unconquerable aliection. One opinion seemed, at this time, very much to aid the purpose of Mr. Dobhs, and to excite liim to greater exertion ; and tliat was, that the failures of Capts. Scroggs and Middleton were in some measure ejlected l>y the endeavours of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, the members of which, the better to protect their monopoly in the trade of furs, took every means to stiHe accounts at the factory, if such accounts ap- peared to throw light on the subject of the north- west passage. Such conduct was looked upon as extremely illiberal, particularly after the great ex- pense and danger which had been incurred, and out of which the very existence of that company's mono- poly originally sprang'. Mr. Dobbs, supported in his views with such a powerful argument, laboured incessantly in the affair ; and the matter appeared of such importance, that the iegislatui-e offered a reward of 20,000/. to such per- sons as would succeed in penetrating through the northern waters of tiie Atlantic, by a westward course, into tlie Pacific Ocean. Such a bounty, as might be expected, became a most powerful stimulus to exertion, and Mr, Dobbs was gratified in seeing an expedition fitted out, in the year 1746, for the purpose of efTecting his favourite project. Accordingly, in the above year, tw® vessels, the Dobbs Galley, commanded by Capt. William Moore, and the California, under the command of Capt. Fran- ces Smith, were fitted out with the utmost care for the M'»'' A NORTH-WKST PASS At; C. 109 iffai %. wf, comfort and preservation of the pcojjlo. In order to afford the ijreater advantage to the occai^ion, the cele- bratcd Mr. Henry Elhs was invited to undertake the office of agent to the company, at whose expense the outfit was made, which he cheerfully comphed with, and to that gentleman the public is indebted for the best account ever before exhibited of the attempts ta explore the north-west passage. Having received very ample instructions, from whicli they were directed to tind, according to the state of the tide, the most northerly cape of the Amei ican C(jn- tinent, in latitude sixty-two degrees north, the ships proceeded on their voyage, accompanied wit'i the wishes of thousands for their success. It should be also mentioned, that the captains of those shij>s were cautioned against the policy of the Hudson's Bay Company. That this caution was not unneces- sary was afterwards proved ; for when the Dobbs and Califoinia were obliged to winter in Hudson's Bay, the governor threatened to use force to repel the intrusion. However, by the firmness and conciliatory manner of the persons intrusted with the expedition, the difficulty was got over, and the ships were comfort- ably, at least safely, moored for the winter at a con- venient place in Hays's River. From this place the voyagers were not able to c'ear, on account of the ice, till the beginning of the ensuing June. They continued throughout that sum- m.;r traversing the northern extremity of Hudson's Bay, every hour in hopes of finding the long desired passage, but in vain ; for after various efforts, counte- nanced by ingenious and j)lausible arguments, they V 1 ( * V I a •/) •A: < '■ t.' 200 ATTEMPTS MADE TO DISCOVER - were obliged to return without deriving any advan- tage from the voyage, except a more exact knowledge of the shores of that bay, and the manners of the na- tives, who met them in great numbers whenever they approached any j)oint of the coast. One circumstance recorded on this occasion is worthy of note. Although the Esquimeaux, as they are called, are reputed sava- ges, and are represented as mischievous and sangui- nary, yet to the interference of one of those savages, the California, one of the ships, owed her preser- vation. Having been thrown upon a ledge of rocks, and in danger every moment of going to pieces, the natives came around, as usual, to barter, when one old man, perceiving the danger in which the vessel lay, pointed out a deep passage, through which, when the Califor- nia floated on the return of tide, they sailed in the ut- most safety, the same old man paddling on before, and showing how to avoid the rocks. Notwithstanding the failure of this last expedition in search of a north-west passage, still the arguments in favour of its practicability remained in sufficient force to impress the minds of the persons engaged in even that expedition, to expect success at some future opportunity. To this effect Mr. Ellis has left his opi- nion upon record, that the expected opening would be found somewhere in the north extremity of Hudson's Bay, and not in Davis's Strait; but Mr. Ellis had no knowledge of that Strait. Since the expedition in the Dobbs and California, the subject of a passage to India northwR: us 'lad been frequently discussed, but never acted on until tha W i ■*' ■;'> A NORTH-AVEST PASSAGE. 201 advan- (wletlge the na- er they Tistance IthoMgh ?d sava- sangui- lavages, preser- , and In natives >ld man, pointed Califor- i the ut- )re, and sedition ^uraents ufficient ;aged in e future his opi- ould be udson's had no Hfornia, ad been ntil the year IT?.*}, when a voyage was undertaken at the re- quest of the Royal Soci ty, to try how far navigation was practicable towan s the North Pole, and whether there existed a possil !ity of discovering a passage to the East Indies, by ^ route through those frozen regions. The late Lord Mulgrave, then the Hon. Capt. Phipps, and Capt. (afterwards Admiral) Lutwidge, received severally the command of the Race Horse and Carcass bomb-ships, to carry this attempt into execution. All the necessary means for comfort and security were provided; nor were the concerns for scientific observation overlooked. On the 2d of June they sailed from the Nore, being directed to steer by a particular meridian, until the presence of ice would make it necessary to alter their course to the eastward, and proceeded witli very little obstruction until they reached above the eighty-first degree, where they were driven by the pressure of the ice descending from the northward, into a bay, and the ships were apparently locked up, never again to be extricated. Every exertion was made to i'vee the ships, but in vain; for after several days' ineirec- tual toil in that endeavour, the commanders came to the sad resolution of abandoning them, in order to save tho hves of the men. The confusion attending such a resolution is described as extreme, as each individual, anxious for his personal safety, was only concerned about his own comforts. The boats were hoisted out, with intent to drasr them over t!io ice until they should reach the open sea. 2fi 'i If i< t . ^ 202 ATTEMPTS MADE TO DISCOVER i ^

  • - a short (jiieiy. Jlad the commandtM' of a ship been so circumstanc- ed as to liave a door of such an inviting description thrown oj)en l)efoie liim to tlie north-west, and that in the seventy-sixth degree of norlih latitude, in the mid- dle of Jul), wlien the foi^s were ahout to set in, would he think it adviscahle to proceed to iho north-west, and take cliance of the casualties of ice di'iven thither before him, and prol.ably covcrinj^ the coast, which by embarrassing his progress might comj)ol liim to remaiii longer than he otherwise vi'onid wish ? 1 may take the liberty of stating, moreovei-, that in consequence of the ice descending from the northwanl in the beginning of the season, and driving chiefly to the south-west, any attemj>t at pcneirating to the noith- west by that course is considered quite impracticable and extremely dangerous ; so that the east <:oast of James's bland is never seen by navigators going oiil, and in latter years seldom by those returning honn- Avards. The opportunities, then, which 1 have had of observ- ing the actual state of the arctic seas, have produced on my mind a conviction that it is practicable for ships. to find a passage fj-om tlie Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, by the shores of North America, and that that passage is to be elFected above the seventy-tourtii de- gree of north latitude. Tile vaiious appearance^ of the ice found in those seas, and the eliccts produced from congelation, are of eminent importance in tlie consideration of the present subject, as all (he discD- [.' 1 I 222 THE ONLV UOl TK BV WHICH veries hitherto made in the frozen regions have termi- nated with the ice. In Cooke's voyages it appears, that the state of the ire forbado an approach to tlie North Pole much above j^ehring's Strait. To this point, I wish to apply a few observations. Open sea is always favourable to the sokition of ice, from the great agitation of the surface, ice being invariably formed in a state of rest. In sup- port of this the reader is requested to refer to a fact stated in that part of the observations which regard- ed ice formation : — whenever the ship came within an extent of recent congelation a calm ensued. That such could not be accidental, was evident from its in- variable recurrence in similar circumstances, and that too when the presence of land was so remote as not to aid in producing any change of wind. It certainly appeared to me an unusual occurrence, that a vessel under full but easy way, should be at once arrested in her progress by causes not obvious to common view ; yet such was the case whenever the ship's course lay t!irou