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NAllllATlVE 
 
 OF A 
 
 VOYAGK HOUND THE WORLD, 
 
 IM.IM'OllMKII IN 
 
 HER MAJESTY'S SHIP SULPHUR, 
 
 I 
 
 
 !-< 
 
 DURING TIIK YEARS 183()-l«r2. 
 
 INfLUUIN'J HKTAII-H OK TIIK 
 
 NAVAL OPERATIONS IN CHINA, 
 
 FROM l)i:c. IHIU, TO NOV. l«li. 
 
 ^ 
 
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 ^ubll{il)(ti untirr tl)c ^utijoritj) of tl)c Uotti^ CS'ommiiSdionerii 
 of tiK ^DmirAltij). 
 
 BY 
 
 CAPTAIN SIR EDVVAIU) JiJlLCIIEF R.N. 
 
 C.H., r.K.A.S., &c. 
 
 COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, 
 GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 
 1843. 
 
y 
 
 J^"^ 
 
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 LONDON : 
 
 ritiNiEi) i)v a. J. iMmKR, savov kikkkt, stisand. 
 
.,,,t 
 
 TO 
 
 THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 THE EARL OF HADDINGTON, 
 
 FIRST LORD COMMISSIONER FOR KXECUTING THE OFFICE 
 
 OF LORD HIGH ADMIRAL OF GREAT BRITAIN AND 
 
 IRELAND, &C., &C., &C., 
 
 THESE VOLUMES, 
 CONTAINING 
 
 THE NAEEATIVE OF A VOVAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 ARE, BY HIS lordship's PERMISSION, 
 INSCRIBED, 
 WITH THE GREATEST RESPECT, 
 
 BY 
 
 HIS lordship's 
 
 VERY OBEDIENT SERVANT, 
 
 EDWARD BELCHER 
 
LL 
 
 1 
 
P 11 E F A C E. 
 
 Voyages undertaken for the express purposes of Mari- 
 time Discovery have always been received with so mucli 
 favour by the British piii)lic, and especially when made (as 
 in the present instance) by Britisfh officers, and under the 
 direction of the British Government, that the writer of 
 the present Narrative of a Voyage Round the World 
 confidently trusts he will not be denied that indulgence 
 which has been uniformly accorded to those who have 
 preceded him. He hopes for such indulgence the rather 
 that, although the practical results of his labours have 
 been necessarily less fertile of novelty, and therefore of 
 popular interest, than those of his more distinguished 
 predecessors, they have not been less arduous or onerous 
 to the individuals engaged in them. 
 
 In order that the scope and extent of the objects con- 
 templated and attained, in this Voyage Round the World, 
 may be judged of, it may be well to precede the narrative 
 by a brief outline of its conten*3. 
 
 Her Majesty's ship Sulphur was commissioned in 
 September, 1835, by Captain Beechey, and, accompanied 
 
1.1 
 
 VI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 by her consort the Starling, Lieut. Commander Kellett, 
 quitted England in the following December. Captain 
 Beechey invalided at Valparaiso, and was succeeded by 
 Acting Commander Kellett, who was again superseded by 
 the author of the present narrative, who took the com- 
 mand at Panama, in February, 1837, having crossed the 
 Isthmus of Darien for that purpose, and retained it till 
 the conclusion of her protracted voyage. After some 
 little delay in completing certain necessary operations, 
 the two vessels proceeded nortlierly, touching at Realejo 
 and Libertad in Central America, and reached San Bias 
 in June, 1837, whence she sailed for the Sandwich Islands, 
 which she reached the following month. 
 
 Port Etches, in King William's Sound, in 60" 30' N. was 
 the next destination of the Expedition. Point Riou and 
 Port Mulgrave were chosen as base stations for determin- 
 ing the position of Mount St. Elias, and further settling the 
 question of longitude between Cook and Vancouver. The 
 Sulphur then proceeded to Sitka or New Archangel, in 
 Norfolk Sound, where the officers received very courteous 
 treatment from Captain KoupreanofF, the Russian go- 
 vernor. She next visited Friendly Cove, in Nootka 
 Sound, and thence sailed to San Francisco, when the 
 examination of the river Sacramento, one hundred and 
 fifty-six miles from her anchorage, occupied the party in 
 open boats for thirty-one days. Thence the Sulphur suc- 
 cessively visited Monterey, San Bias, Acapulco, and 
 Libertad, on her way to Realejo. where the author, for 
 the recovery of his health, undertook a land survey of the 
 principal mountains overlooking his future ground in the 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Vll 
 
 Kellett, 
 Captain 
 leded by 
 seded by 
 he com- 
 )ssed the 
 >d it till 
 er some 
 erations, 
 ; Realejo 
 Ian Bias 
 Islands, 
 
 0' N. was 
 
 iiou and 
 
 etermin- 
 
 tling the 
 
 The 
 
 ngel, in 
 
 Qurteous 
 
 iian go- 
 
 Nootka 
 
 leu the 
 
 red and 
 
 party in 
 
 lur suc- 
 
 co, and 
 
 lor, for 
 
 y of the 
 
 d in the 
 
 jr 
 
 Gulf of Papagayo, and fixed the principal features of the 
 Lake of Managua, to its fall into that of Nicaragua, atTepi- 
 tapa. After surveying the Gulf of Papagayo and Port 
 Culebra, the Sulphur quitted Central America, touched at, 
 and fixed, Cocos Island, and reached Callao in June, 1838, 
 for the purpose of refit, and the completion of stores and 
 provisions. Having examined the coast betwen Cerro 
 Azul and Callao, (about sixty miles,) she left Callao in 
 August, calling at Paita and Guayaquil, and returned to 
 Panama in the following October. 
 
 Here may be said to have ended her first cruize ; but 
 between October and March a survey was made of the 
 Gulfs of Fonseca and Nicoya, Pueblo Nueva, and Baia 
 Honda, after which the ship moved northerly, repeating 
 her cruize of 1837, She was detained at the Columbia 
 River, till September ; Bodega, the Russian position near 
 San Fransisco, was then surveyed, and subsequently San 
 Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara, San Pedro, San 
 Juan, San Diego, San Quentin, San Bartolome, the 
 Gulf of Magdalena, and Cape San Lucas. The Sulphur 
 then proceeded to San Bias and Mazatlan, where orders 
 for a westerly return awaited her. Having shipped sup- 
 plies for fourteen months, from a transport which had 
 been sent to meet her, she commenced her homeward 
 voyage in January, 1840 ; en route the author landed on 
 the islands of Socorro and Clarion, and secured their posi- 
 tions. She reached the Marquesas the same month, and 
 after a short visit to Port Anna Maria, Nuhuhiva, moved 
 on to Bow Island, where the operation was performed of 
 boring for the volcanic foundation on which these coral 
 
'1 
 
 Vlll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 islands are suspected to stand. She then visited Tahiti, 
 Huaheine, Raratonga, Vavao, (Tonga group,) Nukulau, 
 (Feejees,) Tanna, (New Hebrides,) Port Carteret, (New 
 Ireland,) Britannia Island, New Guinea, coasting that 
 island to Arimoa and as far as Jobie, where she remained 
 to rate and survey ; then to Amsterdam, Pigeon Island, 
 (Dampier's Straits,) Bouro and Amboina, moving thence 
 to Macassar, Great Solombo, and Pulo Kunipal, off the 
 Borneo coast; reaching Singapore in October of the 
 same year. 
 
 Orders here awaited her to proceed instantly to China, 
 where she was detained, and took an active part in the 
 operations against the Chinese, till nearly the close 
 of the year 1841, when she sailed for England. After 
 leaving Singapore, and touching at Malacca, Penang, 
 Acheen, Sumatra, Point de Galle, (Ceylon,) Sechelles, 
 Madagascar, Cape of Good Hope, St. Helena, and As- 
 cension, she at last returned to Spithead. 
 
 The account of the voyage has been carefully drawn up 
 from the author's own memoranda, made when the places 
 and incidents they describe were under his observation, 
 and the illustrations are faithfully given from existing 
 scenes and objects. 
 
 In conclusion, the author desires to acknowledge his 
 
 obligation to Mr. Hinds, the Surgeon to the Expedition, 
 
 for his valuable and interesting account of the vegetable 
 
 regions, which will be found appended to the second 
 
 volume of the narrative. 
 
 E. B. 
 
 J! 
 
W.x^'- 
 
 e 
 
 ited Tahiti, 
 Nukulau, 
 jret, (New 
 isting that 
 J remained 
 on Island, 
 ing thence 
 al, off the 
 er of the 
 
 to China, 
 irt in the 
 the close 
 d. After 
 , Penang, 
 Sechelles, 
 
 and As- 
 drawn up 
 
 le places 
 
 ervation, 
 existing 
 
 edge his 
 iedition, 
 egetable 
 3 second 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 Ilydrographic lustnictions 
 
 Paye. xvii. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Ilor Majesty's ship Sulphur quits England — Captain Beechcy 
 invalided — Is succeeded by Acting-Commander Kellctt, who 
 repairs to Panama to await instructions — Captain Belcher ap- 
 pointed to the command of the Expedition — Quits Falmouth in 
 her Majesty's steamer Echo — Touches at Lisbon, and reaches 
 Barbadoes and Jamaica — Is transferred to her Majesty's ship 
 Forte, Commodore Pell, and thence to her Majesty's ship Ma- 
 dagascar, Commodore Sir J. Peyton — Is present at the block- 
 ade, &c., of Carthagena, and then embarks in her Majesty's 
 ship Nimrod for Chagres — Passage up the river — Reaches 
 Panama, and takes command of the Sulphur . Page 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Assume the command of the Sulphur — Escort Consul's family to 
 Chagres, and measure meridian distance by chronometers — Em- 
 bark the ladies in her Majesty's ship Ninirod,and re-measure dis- 
 tance to Gorgona — Another attempt with the rockets from Cara- 
 veli, unsuccessful ; Explosion bags from tree on Ato.Ormigero, 
 

 .!( 
 
 1 ( 
 \ i 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 \ 
 
 i 
 
 ; J 
 
 X CONTENTS. 
 
 successful — Measure distance to Panama — Power of Moteros in 
 carrying burdens — Opinion on rocket measurement compared 
 with chronometer — Present state of Panama — Move to Tr ^oga 
 — Leave Taboga — Visit Baia Honda — Magnetic Ishuid 
 (Pueblo Nueva) — Pass Gulf of Nicoya — Papagayo gusts — 
 Arrive at Realejo — Obtain sui)plies — Port of llealejo — Quit 
 llcalejo by the Barra Falsa— Repair to Libcrtad — Visit San Sal- 
 vador — Return and hear of fatal accident to coxswain — Surf — 
 Difficulty of getting to ship — Succeed, and quit Libcrtad — • 
 Touch at Manzanilla (Port of Colima)— Reach San Bias — Visit 
 Tepic — Quit San Bias for Sandwich Islands. . .19 
 
 CHAPTER in. 
 
 Search for islands in the neighbourhood of Socorro— Clouds and 
 Freshwater Island — Pass over position of Best's Island— Make 
 Clarion's — Search for islands reported by Whalers between 1 ."JO" 
 and 13" \V — Cross Blossom's track — Method of inserting 
 track— Make Island of Maui — Singular cascades — Arrive at 
 Oahu — Enter the port to refit— Question of forcible entry of 
 "Clementine" — Appeal to the Government unsuccessful — 
 Re-capture Clementine, and send her for the king — Missionary 
 threat— Land the missionaries — Arrival of the French frigate 
 Venus — Letter from the king — Arrival of the king's yacht — 
 Royal reception — King consents to the missionaries remaining 
 — Suspicions of foul play — Take leave of Venus, and (piit Oahu 
 — Arrival in the Bay of Atooi — Quit Hanalae — Present condi- 
 tion of Oahu — Views of the king — College at Maui — Starling 
 despatched to Port Mulgrave— Touch at Rose Island — Arrive 
 at Port Etches —Aurora observed — Visit the Russian settle- 
 ment of Port Etches — Discover traces of Captain Portlock on 
 Garden Island — Quit Port Etches — Extraordinary appear- 
 ance of land near Cape Suckling — Anchor in Icy Bay, under 
 Mount Elias — Point Riou not to be found — Icebergs — Arrival 
 at Port Mulgrave — Rejoir Starling — Lip ornament— Quit 
 Port Mulgrave . . . . .47 
 
CONTKNTR. 
 
 XI 
 
 )f Moteros in 
 
 nt oompnrt'd 
 
 ve toTr')(){j;a 
 
 iictic Island 
 
 [lyo gusts — 
 
 cnlejo — Quit 
 
 'isit San Sal- 
 
 aiu — Surf — 
 
 Libcrtad — 
 
 Bias— Visit 
 
 . 19 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Norfolk Sound, Capo Edgocumbc— Sitka — Russian Governor 
 Kouprcanoff — Erect observatory — Establishment of Sitka — 
 Stnall-|)ox among the Indians — Attention of the (lovernor — 
 Entertainment to the natives — Probable cause of disagreements 
 — Musical instruments — Slavery — Russiati ball — Quit Sitka — 
 Customary signals — Reach Woody Point — Anchor in Erienilly 
 Cove, Nootka— Arrival of Mac((uilla— Description of natives — 
 Exhibition of magic-lanthorn and fireworks— A court fool — 
 Sulkiness of Mac(|uilla, on our refusal to trade — Description of 
 natives— Quit Nootka, and proceed to San Francisco . !M 
 
 -Clouds and 
 
 and— Make 
 
 etvveenl.'U)" 
 
 if inserting 
 
 — Arrive at 
 
 le entry of 
 
 uccessful — ■ 
 
 ■Missionary 
 
 ncli frigate 
 
 's yacht — 
 
 remaining 
 
 quit Oalm 
 
 sent condi- 
 
 i — Starling 
 
 id — Arrive 
 
 ian settle- 
 
 ortlock on 
 
 y ajjpear- 
 
 Jay, under 
 
 -Arrival 
 
 ent— Quit 
 
 . 47 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Changes since 1828 — Result of revolution — Delavvares — Visi; 
 Santa Clara — Decay of the mission— Examine Sacramento — 
 Meet Indian hunters — Reach Point Victoria — Commence 
 survey of river — Short of provisions — Grotesque dresses of 
 Indians — Decrease of population — Animals — Climate — Pro- 
 ductions — Scenery of river — Scarcity of provisions — Rejoin 
 Starling — Insecure state of the country — Renegadoes — Quit 
 San Francisco — Anchor at Monterey — State of its defences — 
 Quit Monterey — Pass Cape San Lucas — Touch at Tres 
 Marias — Reach San Bias. . . . .11;") 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Official news of the accession of Queen Victoria — Arrival of 
 Venus — Scurvy — Starling despatched to Panama for letters — 
 Quit San Bias — Arrive at Acaj)ulco — Entering by Boca Chica 
 — Interview with the Governor — Erect obsen'atory — Examine 
 the port — Capacity — Best berth — Watering place — Present 
 state of trade— Merchants deserting the city in consequence of 
 custom-house regulations — Earthquakes from 1732 to present 
 date — Fort Sau Carlos not affected by them — Period of rainy 
 
xii 
 
 (■(JNTKNTS. 
 
 season — Distanoo from Mexico — Imports, exports, nnil genernl 
 trade — I'opiiliition mid diseases — Military foree — Kxecuti(m of 
 two ninrderers — Unsafe at night — Qnit Acapnleo — Toneh at 
 (Jnatulco, and fix position of Morro Ayuca — ('ross Gulf of 
 Telniante[)cc — Views of volcanic peaks — Call at Sonsonate and 
 Libcrtad — Volcano of Isalco active — Anchor at Kcalejo. . 11 1 
 
 CIIAPTKR VII. 
 
 Excursion to summit of Vit^o Volcano — San Antonio — Mr. 
 liridge, its proprietor — ('hinandega — Swarm of mus(|uitoes — 
 Moyotepita — Pine range — Viejo summit — Palm toddy — 
 Return to San Antonio — Move on to (>hichigalj»a — Posoltega 
 — City of Leon — Its Cathedral and College — Reach Piedra 
 Gorda on the lake of Managiia — Attempt to visit Momotom- 
 hita relinquished— Stormy breezes —Reach Nagarote — Hospi- 
 tality — Move on to Matiarcs— Productions— Cholera, &c. — 
 Reported remains of causeway to Momotond)ita— Reach Ma- 
 nagua — Brasil wood noticed — Sleep at Managua— Move on to 
 Tepitapa — The falls — Sulphur springs — Return to Managua 
 — INIatiares— Nagarote — Leon and San Antonio — Rejoin Sul- 
 phur, and quit Realejo to examine Gulf of Papagayo— Bay of 
 Salinas — Murcicllagos islands examined — Return to Realejo — 
 Arrival of Starling with letters — Quit Realejo — Scorch for and 
 find Culebra — Survey it — Reach island of Cocos— Tedious 
 j)assage — Pass through Gallapagos, and reach ('allao . la!) 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Naval forces at Callao — Refit the Sulphur— Arrival of Admiral 
 Ross — Periodical observations — Visit the coast below Callao — 
 Cerro Azul— Port and town of Chiica — Disturbances in Peru — 
 Arrival of the Chilians — Troops land at Ancon — Engagement 
 near Lima — Chilian forces enter the city — Ladies witness the 
 action — The Sulphur quits Callao — Visits the Ilormigas, 
 Payta, Guayaquil . . . . .19*) 
 
COMKNTS. 
 
 XIII 
 
 null grncrni 
 Ixt'cution of 
 —Touch nt 
 )S9 Gulf of 
 isounto mid 
 k'jo. . Ill 
 
 tonio — Mr. 
 usquitocs — 
 a toddy — 
 — Posoltcga 
 ncli Picdra 
 Momotom- 
 ti' — Ilospi- 
 ern, &c. — 
 llcnch Ma- 
 Move on to 
 ) JNInnagua 
 cjoin Sul- 
 o— Bay of 
 Rcalojo — 
 ch for and 
 — Tedious 
 . IT)!) 
 
 CllAlTKU 1\. 
 
 ''^. 
 
 I'roci'ed to Guayaquil in gig — Ladies of Guaya(|uil — General 
 Wright's excursion to Bodegas — General Flores — Batahoya, 
 Bull fight— Alligators — Balsas, ('anoa de pieca — Saniborodon — 
 Sulphur drops down the river — II. M.S. Harrier calls at Puna — 
 ('apture of an alligator — Handsome conduct of Government of 
 Ecjuador — Return to Panama — Visit Yslas del Key — Witness 
 pearl-diving operations — Arrival of despatches — Sail for 
 Uealejo — Reach Realejo . . . . . 201) 
 
 CllAPTKR X. 
 
 Realejo — Tcruiination of the rainy season — (^uit Realejo and repair 
 to Chicarcne — Gulf of Fonseca — Trip to San Miguel — Agua 
 Frio — Reach San Miguel — Start to visit the Volcano — Demur 
 at Chinameca — Return in disgust to San Miguel — Quit, and 
 visit Moncagua — lireakfast — Arrive at San Miguel — The fair — 
 Method of transacting business — Honourable conduct of natives 
 — R»m to Realivjo — Meet H. M. S. Imogenc — Return to Con- 
 chagua — Port of San (Carlos — Ascend Amapala -Conchagua, 
 &c. — Pitch observatory under ('onseguina — Start with Starling 
 and boats to examine Estero Real — Result — Swarms of Mosqui- 
 toes — Canal question — Volcano of ('onscguina — Desolation 
 caused by its eruption — Return to Realejo — A boat upset in 
 a squall — Mr. Speck and a seaman drowned — Sail for the 
 Gulf of Nicoya ..... . 225 
 
 Admiral 
 
 Callao— 
 
 In Peru — 
 
 jgagement 
 
 Itness the 
 
 lormigas, 
 
 . IS);-) 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Survey of the Gulf of Nicoya — Its capabihties —Examine Bay 
 of Honda — Quibo — Receive despatches at Panama — Future 
 movements — Sail for the Sandwich Islands — Revisit Cocos 
 Island — Examine Clipperton Rock — Anchor at Ilonolidu — 
 Disjjosition of the king towards us — Funeral of Kinau, the 
 
<IMi 
 
 XIV 
 
 CONTKNTH. 
 
 Kiiif^'H ftuiit — Till' kiiijj; and suite visit tlic Suliihiir — Mis- 
 sionary iiifluciici' ftiid operntions — The islands less frcqncntcd 
 — The Orphan School — lUipid decreasu of the population — 
 Exports and productions . . . .217 
 
 CIIAlTKll XII. 
 
 Quit Ilonululu — Touch at Atooi — Signs of improvement — Sail 
 for the north — Great numbers of murine animals — Touch at 
 Kodiack— Natives — Observations — Visit Sitka — Knter the 
 Columbia River — Present state of Astoria — Ascend the 
 river to Fort Vancouver — Jealousy of the Indians respecting 
 their dead — The establishment at Fort Vancouver — Colonizuig 
 the Wallamette — Relations with America and Russia— Great 
 size of the forest trees — The Hudson's Ray trading establish- 
 ment — Wreck of a Japanese junk — The crew seized by the 
 natives — Other similar occurrences — Character of the Indians 
 who compress the head — Influence on the mind — Sail for Cali- 
 fornia — Settlement of Ross — Rodega — Unsafe anchorage — 
 San Francisco — Sailing directions for the port . . 279 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Arrive at Monterey — Move on to St. Rarbara — Kelp line — 
 St. Rarbara — Move on to San Pedro— Starling despatched to 
 San Ruenaventura — San Pedi' Touch at San Juan— Starling 
 despatched to examine St. Catal —Anchor at San Diego — 
 Description of the port — Alann from Indians— Defenceless 
 state — Country wines made at San Luis Rey — Quit San Diego 
 — Pass Cape Colnett and enter San Quentin, or Puerto de las 
 Virgiues — Touch at San Rartolomfe— Enter and anchor in 
 Gulf of Magdalena — Fossils — Esteros — Extent of Esteros — 
 Probable connexion with La Paz — Adapted for naval rendez- 
 vous — Cape San Lucas Productions — Reach San Rlas — Quit, 
 and anchor at Mazatlan — Return to San Rlas . .319 
 
 s 
 
C0NTKNT8. 
 
 XV 
 
 CIIAPTKH XIV. 
 
 Quit Snn Bios — Island of Socorro — Gnats — Docs not afford 
 wntcr — Uraithwiiitc's liny — Clarion Island — Lose anclior — 
 Uotaiiy — Fish — No wntcr — Iriih eagle shot — False alann of 
 breakers — Make the Marquesas — Enter j)()rt Anna Maria — 
 Nuhuhivn — Transactions— War in Tabu — Interference to stoji 
 hostilities— Unsuccessful— Compact of safety to foreign residents 
 —Signed by king and prime ministers— Quit Nuhuhiva . 345 
 
 IN IHK IIVDRlMillAlHIC INKIKUCTIONH. 
 
 I'liHC' xxiv. line G, for which read winch. 
 
ILLUSTHATIONS 
 
 TO THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 MAPS. 
 , Map of the Author's route. 
 «. Map, showing the track of groinul searched. 
 ,► Map of Canton River. 
 
 Loose in 
 Pocket. 
 
 ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 City of Panama, from Caledonia Hill. . {Frontispiece.) '- 
 
 City of Panama from the sea . . . Page 23 " 
 
 Port of Honululu, Island of Oahu, Sandwich Islands . 60 - 
 
 Mount St. Elias . . . . .78- 
 
 View of the Arsenal and Lighthouse, Sitka, New Archangel 90 -* 
 Volcano of Conseguina — Gulf of Fonseca . . . 242 • 
 
 Fort George, Astoria ..... 281) ' 
 
 Port Anna Maria, Nuhuhiva, Marquesas . . . 353.* 
 
 VIGNETTES. 
 
 Appearance of Ice 
 
 Native Chief of Port Mulgrave 
 
 Woman with Mouth-piece . 
 
 Native Chiof of Sitka 
 
 Castanet . 
 
 Tomlj 
 
 Macquilla 
 
 Burial Canoe 
 
 (>radles 
 
 Slate Pipes of North-west America 
 
 Indian Skull 
 
 7G 
 84 
 86 
 102 
 103 
 104 
 108 
 292 
 307 
 309 
 311 
 
 I i 
 
HYDROGRAPHIC INSTRUCTIONS 
 
 Luone in 
 Pocket. 
 
 FOR 
 
 CAPTAIN BEECHEY, 
 
 'ontispiece.) ^ 
 
 Page 23 " 
 
 . GO < 
 
 . 78- 
 
 liangel 96 *' 
 
 . 242- 
 
 . 289' 
 
 . 353^ 
 
 76 
 84 
 8G 
 102 
 103 
 104 
 108 
 292 
 307 
 309 
 311 
 
 
 vf'S 
 
 SUBSEaUENTLY FOR 
 
 CAPTAIN BELCHER. 
 
 The general objects of the expedition which has been 
 placed under your command having been set forth in their 
 Lordships' orders, it becomes my duty to enter somewhat 
 more diffusely into the nature and details of the service 
 which you are to perform. 
 
 The first point to which your orders advert after quitting 
 England is the Eight Stones. You will probably add 
 one more to the many testimonies which have been already 
 collected of their non-existence, at least in the position 
 assigned to them in the old charts ; but before we 
 venture to expunge them it would be satisfactory to 
 mak' .11 the inquiry in your power at Madeira, respecting 
 the traditions on which their existence is asserte ' 
 
 In approaching the coast of Brazil, you will have a good 
 opportunity of verifying or discarding the bank of sound- 
 
 VOL. I. c 
 
If 
 
 I 
 
 ii 
 
 XVIII 
 
 HYDROGRAPIIIC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 ingc which has been adopted in our charts, from a circum- 
 stantial account iu the remark-book of tlie Fly, within a 
 week after her leaving Bahia, and with chronometer on 
 board. For this purpo&e it will be proper to run down 
 the parallel of 1G° 50 S., (or 16" 55, so as to allow for 
 the northerly current,) and to carry in a chain of deep sea 
 soundings from about the longitude of 35° 30 W., till in 
 37° 30 W. From thence you may shape an extremely 
 useful course, so as to round Cape St. Thome and Frio 
 at such a distance, if the wind will permit, as will enable 
 you to intersect some very discordant soundings which 
 have been inserted in the chart, from different but 
 apparently good authorities. One well determined line of 
 genuine depths will go far to elucidate all the difficul- 
 ties. 
 
 At Rio de Janeiro, or at Santa Catharina, you will have 
 an important task to perform, and the choice of the two 
 places is of no moment, provided the chronometers enable 
 you to determine their meridian distance with precision. 
 The longitude of the former has been reduced within very 
 narrow limits, by various observers, and a vast number of 
 observations of various kinds, the mean of which gives 
 43° 8 W., for the little island of Villegagnon ; but as every 
 change of a standard meridian is attended with great 
 inconvenience to seamen, it may be hoped that a good 
 series of moon-culminating stars may now put the question 
 at rest, so that no further alteration will be requisite, at 
 least for nautical purposes. 
 
 As magnetic phenomena are objects of much scientific 
 interest at present, you should not lose the opportunity of 
 obtaining some careful observations of dip and intensity, 
 at one of the above places, and likewise at one of the high 
 southern positions where it v/as obtained by Captain P. 
 King. Port Famine would be well adapted to the purpose 
 
UYDlUKiRAPlFlC IXSTRUCTIOXS. 
 
 XIX 
 
 ►m a circura- 
 ^ly, within a 
 snometer on 
 o run down 
 to allow for 
 n of deep sea 
 OW.,till in 
 m extremely 
 me and Frio 
 s will enable 
 ndings which 
 different but 
 [•mined line of 
 the difficul- 
 
 you will have 
 
 ce of the two 
 
 meters enable 
 
 itli precision. 
 
 d within very 
 
 ist number of 
 
 which gives 
 
 but as every 
 
 1 with great 
 
 that a good 
 
 the question 
 
 requisite, at 
 
 Lich scientific 
 jportunity of 
 id intensity, 
 of the high 
 Captain P. 
 the purpose 
 
 if other circumstances should not render that route incon- 
 venient, and the more so as it was the standard meridian 
 to which he referred all the longitudes of his survey. 
 
 From tiience there will be nothing to delay your pro- 
 gress towards that p; rt of the western coast where Captain 
 Fitzroy's late survey terminated. Unfortunately no 
 account of his concluding operations has yet arrived, but 
 by a comparison of dates it does not appear that there 
 could have been time to examine much of the coast of 
 Chili, to the northward of Valparaiso, or even to complete 
 it down to that port. This question must be decided, 
 because at no great distance to the southward lie the 
 shoals of Topocalmo, where an American ship was wrecked, 
 and which, if they have not been satisfactorily laid down 
 by him, and their connexion with the shore examined, 
 must not be neglected by you. 
 
 It is, however, probable that at Valparaiso you will be 
 able to obtain such information on that subject, as may 
 help to guide your movements ; but if not, there will be 
 little danger of repeating any part of his work if you 
 commence yours at Coquimbo, leaving the interval to 
 be hereafter effected, when the return of the Beagle, or 
 the arrival of her despatches, shall enable me to define 
 more exactly the point at which the great work assigned 
 to you by their Lordships ought to begin. 
 
 Of that extensive region which your work is to com- 
 prehend, we are at present b?st acquainted with the 
 southern portion, including Chili and Peru. Yet of 
 those long and populous coasts, excepting the ports of 
 Guayaquil and Callao, our whole knowledge is derived 
 from two Spanish charts, on the limited scale of one 
 inch to twenty eight miles ; and it appears from Captain 
 Fitzroy's recent examination of the large island of Chiloe, 
 and of the intricate gulf of Chonos, that those charts 
 
 € 2 
 
1 
 
 XX 
 
 IIYDROGRAPHTC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 are evidently the result of mere running of'surveys. The 
 half-knowledge to be obtained by this kind of survey, has 
 always acted as a check on the advance of geographical 
 and nautical information, and is in itself useless ; for the 
 native coaster wants nothing beyond his local expe- 
 rience ; the regular foreign trade employs a pilot ; and 
 the occasional visitor sees that all the details are so unlike 
 the truth, that he does not even attempt to correct ; — and 
 thus cur enterprising carriers in peace, and our active 
 cruizers in war, find themselves equally foiled in their 
 operations along shore. These evils can be remedied 
 only by correct charts, on scales appropriate to the greater 
 or less intricacy of their contents, and showing the true 
 shape and nature of the shore, the positions of the towns, 
 the places for anchoring, the depths on the bank, and 
 the appearance of the land, as it makes in the offing. 
 The present state of science, and the excellence of 
 modern instruments, afford ample means for acquiring 
 this knowledge with comparative facility, and our western 
 American commerce has long been in need of such charts ; 
 but especially now, that the impulse it has received from 
 the revolutions of those rich but only half maritime coun- 
 tries, has brought our vessels into contact with every 
 port from Valdivia to the Columbia. 
 
 In carrying this great survey into effect, their Lord- 
 ships have placed the fullest reliance on the unabated 
 zeal and talents which you have heretofore displayed, 
 and they have cautiously and wisely abstained, in your 
 orders, from fettering you in the selection of your ground, 
 or in that division and disposition of your time, which 
 the periodic changes of season, or the occasional neces- 
 sities of the vessels, may require. If, therefore, Provi- 
 dence permits you to preserve your resources unimpaired, 
 and if the several governments interpose no obstacles, you 
 
II Y UIIOORAI'IIIC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 XXI 
 
 rveys. The 
 f survey, has 
 geograpliical 
 less ; for the 
 
 local expe- 
 a pilot ; and 
 are so unlike 
 orrect ; — and 
 id our active 
 iled in their 
 be remedied 
 to the greater 
 iving the true 
 of the towns, 
 he hank, and 
 in the offing, 
 excellence of 
 
 for acquiring 
 id our western 
 )f such charts ; 
 
 received from 
 laritime coun- 
 ct with every 
 
 their Lord- 
 
 the unabated 
 
 ore displayed, 
 
 lined, in your 
 
 your ground; 
 
 time, which 
 
 asional neces- 
 
 refore, Provi- 
 
 es unimpaired, 
 
 obstacles, you 
 
 will, doubtless, pursue this imjiortant work, with all the 
 energy in your power, and with all the perseverance 
 consistent with a due regard to the health of your officers 
 and crews. 
 
 Where their Lordships have placed such unlimited 
 confidence, it would ill become nie to enter too minutely 
 into the lesser pursuits, which are connected with the 
 main object of the coast line ; but there are some de- 
 tached islands and dangers to which it is proper to advert, 
 and to which it is necessary to call your attention. 
 
 In crossing from one division of the survey to the 
 other, you might visit and determine the position of the 
 little islands of St. Felix ; for though they can offer 
 neither resources nor shelter, yet such insulated specks 
 in the ocean are often useful to the mariner in rectifying 
 his longitude. 
 
 A little further to the westward, the brig Cannon, in 
 1827, discovered a dangerous reef, of half a mile in length, 
 which she called the London Bank, and placed in 27° 6 
 south, and 92" 16 west, and which it would be useful to 
 verify. 
 
 If there be any truth in the report that the earthquake 
 of February has considerably shaken the island of Juan 
 Fernandez, it might be useful to stretch over there, and 
 to examine if any material change has really taken 
 place in the anchorage. Some other extraordinary effects 
 of this earthquake are said to have occurred on the coast 
 of Chili, in permanently elevating part of the shore, and 
 in changing the depth of the adjacent sea. These asser- 
 tions, if at all true, are probably exaggerated, and you will 
 render a service to geology, by minutely inquiring into 
 the circumstances, and communicating the result without 
 delay. 
 
 It uuiy be hoped that Cajjtuin Fitzroy has sufficiently 
 
■^ 
 
 XXII 
 
 HYDROCJUAI'IIIC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 examined the Galapagos, and therefore, till that is ascer- 
 tained, your time should not be occupied there. 
 
 Cocos Island is stated by Vancouver to be only foui 
 miles in length, while, according to Collnet, it is not less 
 than four leagues ; and its position being also imper- 
 fectly known, it should be visited. The little solitf.ry 
 islet of Malpelo should likewise be definitively placed. 
 The islands of Revilla, Gigado, &c., will naturally be 
 included in your general chart of California. 
 
 Further otF, in IG" North, and about 130o West, a 
 large group of coral islands is supposed to have been 
 seen. It is not probable that you will have to stand 
 so far out in any of your traverses, but if accident 
 should lead you near them, it will be proper to esta- 
 blish their position, and to ascertain their general character- 
 
 Political circumstances have invested the Columbia 
 river with so much importance, that it will be well to 
 devote some time to its bar and channels of approach, as 
 well as to its inner anchorages and shores. 
 
 In touching at some of the points of Vancouver's 
 survey, you will perceive, that unless in any cases of 
 gross error, it is not their Lordships' intention that you 
 should do more than rectify the general longitudes in the 
 chart of that officer, as they are probably quite adequate 
 to any interest that is felt at present about that archipe- 
 lago of islands. If, however, you have a convenient 
 opportunity, it will be desirable to ascertain whether there 
 is not a broad sea passage through his King George 
 Island, dividing it into two islands. 
 
 As the terminal point of your whole survey to the 
 northward, the magnificent mountain of St. Elias may 
 be named ; and its exact position and height should 
 therefore be determined. 
 
 Next in importance to the accuracy of the coast line 
 
'(fl 
 
 'im 
 
 IIYDROGRArillC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 XXlll 
 
 hat is ascer- 
 •e. 
 
 )e only foui 
 it is not less 
 also iniper- 
 ittle solitf.ry 
 vely placed, 
 naturally be 
 
 30° West, a 
 ;o have been 
 ave to stand 
 t if accident 
 oper to esta- 
 ral character, 
 lie Columbia 
 ill be well to 
 approach, as 
 
 Vancouver's 
 any cases of 
 ion that you 
 itudes in the 
 ite adequate 
 lat archipe- 
 convenient 
 hether there 
 ing George 
 
 rvey to the 
 Elias may 
 ght should 
 
 
 e coast line 
 
 and of the shoals, is the precision and fulness of the 
 soundings, with the quality of the bottom. There can be 
 no doubt that the nature of the substances which are 
 spread over the bottom of the sea does not depend on 
 mere chance, but that they are in some measure con- 
 nected with the adjacent shores, and sometimes with 
 those of more distant parts of the coast, from which they 
 have been swept by currents ; and it would be a great 
 benefit to navigation if this relationship could be satisfac- 
 torily traced. The transition also from one species of 
 sand to another, and the link by which these beds or 
 patches are connected, are subjects which would be well 
 deserving the reflection and exertions of our scientific 
 mariners. Besides the soundings to be carried along 
 shore, (the breadth of which zone, proceeding from the 
 back of the rollers, M'ill depend on their depth and regu- 
 larity,) the outer edge of the bank should also be laid 
 down, as being a most important aid to the navigator, 
 and a sufficient number of depths marked in the inter- 
 vening space, to show the general slope of the bank. 
 This outer edge may be assumed at a hundred fathoms, 
 as in general it rapidly sinks from that depth, to one 
 beyond the usual reach of the lead. Massey's machine 
 should not be used in a greater depth than fifty or sixty 
 fathoms. 
 
 In approaching the several groups of islands, and in 
 the various runs which either vessel may have to make 
 in the course of the survey, at a distance from the land, 
 no opportunity should be missed of throwing down the 
 deep sea lead. The negative language of no bottom 
 soundings on the charts, is next in value to the real 
 depth ; and, unless when pressed in time by some para- 
 mount object, it should be the established practice of a 
 surveying vessel, both night and day, though apparently 
 
ll 
 
 l':' 
 
 XXIV 
 
 liYmiOOUAl'lllC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 remote from any bank, to have a deep cast of the lead 
 ever} ten or twenty miles, according to the distance from 
 the shore. This might sometimes lead to useful disco- 
 veries ; and in order to abridge the labour, as well as to 
 prevent the unwholesome effect of wet sleeves, the sound- 
 ing which should be always employed on these occasions. 
 
 No consistent account of the currents along the 
 western American coast has been yet framed, though in 
 no part of the world would it be of more importance 
 and value. Observations, therefore, to determine the 
 direction and strength of the current, should not be left 
 to be inferred from the mere error of the dead reckoning, 
 when traversing the sea in the offirg, nor to the casual 
 set of the boats when employed in-shore, but should be 
 systematically made, for the express purpose of forming a 
 general view of this interesting subject, and which can 
 only be effected by a great accumulation of data. 
 
 In applying this rule to the extensive ocean which will 
 be more than once traversed by the present expedition, 
 it may be as well to divide the inquiry into distinct ques- 
 tions. 
 
 1. The actual set and direction of the current in all 
 parts that the vessels may visit. 
 
 2. Are the currents permanent, or in what degree are 
 they modified by the daily sea and land breeze, or by the 
 j)eriodic monsoon, or by the issue of the large rivers ? 
 
 3. To what distance does the regular current extend 
 from the coast ? and where do the neutral space and 
 counter-current begin? 
 
 4. Is the general direction of the permanent current 
 parallel to the shore, or oblique ? 
 
 5. To what depth do these currents extend down- 
 wards ? 
 
 The couii)arHtive teniperiiture of the atmosphere and 
 
IIYDIIOCJUAI'IIK' INSTUrCTlOXS. 
 
 XXV 
 
 t of the lead 
 distance from 
 useful disco- 
 as well as to 
 es, the sound- 
 ese occasions. 
 ts along the 
 !d, though in 
 •e importance 
 letermine the 
 d not be left 
 lad reckoning, 
 to the casual 
 3ut should be 
 e of forming a 
 id which can 
 ■ data. 
 
 (an which will 
 it expedition, 
 distinct ques- 
 
 jurrent in all 
 
 lat degree are 
 jeze, or by the 
 ^e rivers ? 
 urrent extend 
 ral space and 
 
 anent current 
 
 jxtend down- 
 
 iiosphcj'e and 
 
 the sea whenever the current rims from the northward 
 or southward, should be continually observed, and marked 
 in the log. A series of such observations would show 
 under what circumstances the thermometer will indicate 
 the effect of currents. 
 
 A minute examination of the tides, including all those 
 data by which they may be accurately calculated, their 
 local set, and the extent to which they are influenced by 
 the periodic winds, and by the sea currents, arc so 
 evident a part of your survey that it need not be dwelt 
 on here. When practicable, their extreme height at the 
 springs should be referred to a fixed object on the 
 shore. 
 
 You will be furnished with a scale by which the force 
 of the wind is to be expressed, and certain abbreviations 
 by which the weather may be correctly described, and 
 these are invariably to be employed in marking the log- 
 board and log-books of both vessels. 
 
 The periods and limits of the trade winds, monsoons, 
 and rains, will no doubt be a constant object of your 
 study. It is true that your observations of them must be 
 confined to the place where your vessels are ; but still you 
 will be able to collect a large number of accurate facts ; 
 you may perhaps pick up some authentic information 
 from others ; your journals of the Blossom and those of 
 former navigators, will supply many connecting circum- 
 stances ; and I feel confident that on your return home 
 you will present to their Lordships the first consistent 
 account of this interesting subject. Hitherto the practi- 
 cal seaman knows not where to seek for the periods of 
 change, which are so essential to the due performance of 
 his voyage ; and those who would investigate and gene- 
 ralise the laws of these curious phenomena cannot find 
 any distinct statements on which they can rely. 
 

 
 XXVI 
 
 IlYDUOtJRAI'IIK; INSTRITCTIONH. 
 
 No possible pains should be spared which may throw 
 uny light on the hitherto inexplicable form of the curves 
 which unite the degrees of equal uuignetic variation, or 
 on the annual motion of those curves to the east or to the 
 west. 
 
 The diurnal arcs of variation should ulso occupy your 
 attention in favourable situations ; and it will be very 
 interesting, if, by multiplying observations, you can 
 either confirm or refute the assertion that there is a 
 constant difference between the variation on the east and 
 west sides of an island, independent of that due to the 
 space it occupies. The restrictions under which these 
 delicate observations should be made will readily suggest 
 themselves to you. No subject can be of greater import- 
 ance to navigators than the laws which affect their 
 compass, and none should be pursued with more perse- 
 verance ; azimuths and amplitudes should be obtained 
 cverrj day, and under every variety of circumstance, as 
 well on shore as on board ; and the latter, whenever 
 ])racticable, should be made with the ship's head either 
 north or south, or rather on the line of no deviation, as 
 shown by the table which will have been formed in each 
 vessel, of her local attraction. 
 
 The local attraction, however, varies in the ratio of the 
 dip ; it should, therefore, be carefully retried, (on every 
 point of the compass,) at both extremes of the survey, 
 as well as near the equator, and a full report of each 
 trial transmitted to this office. 
 
 Observations for the dip and intensity should be made 
 jit different points of the coast, carefully avoiding the 
 neighbourhood of any place which may be likely to in- 
 fluence the needle. 
 
 Nautical descriptions of the places comprised within 
 the limits of the Survey, and clear directions for the 
 
 V , 
 
4. 
 
 IIYDKOdUAlMIK; INSTRL'CTLONH. 
 
 XXMI 
 
 ^h may throw 
 
 of the curves 
 
 variation, or 
 
 east or to the 
 
 occupy your 
 will be very 
 )ns, you can 
 at there is a 
 n the east and 
 at due to the 
 • which these 
 eadily suggest 
 reater import- 
 h affect their 
 1 more perse- 
 d be obtained 
 •cumstance, as 
 ter, whenever 
 I's head either 
 deviation, as 
 ormed in each 
 
 le 
 
 ied 
 
 ratio of the 
 , (on every 
 the survey, 
 iport of each 
 
 lould be made 
 avoiding the 
 likely to in- 
 prised within 
 ;tions for the 
 
 ports and dangers, adapted to all classes of seamen, Mill 
 ol)viously be among the essential parts of the survey ; 
 bu, there will also be opimrtunitics of collecting 
 I'.uxiiiary information which, when digested, may be 
 nuide extensively useful to those who may have to visit 
 that coast ;— such as j)laces of refuge after any disaster 
 at sea; ports where pilots are requisite; the most advan- 
 tageous methods of obtaining water, vvooi\ and other sup- 
 plies ; the general resources and produ tions on which 
 vessels may dej)end ; the usual etfeets o the climate in 
 the rainy and in the dry seasons ; and notice should be 
 given of those spots which are peculiarly unhealthy. In 
 short, no facts can be useless in compiling directions 
 hereafter. 
 
 It has been suggested by some geologists that the coral 
 insect, instead of raising its superstructure directly from 
 the bottom of the sea, works only on the summits of 
 submarine mountains, which have been projected up- 
 wards by volcanic action. They account, therefore, for 
 the basin-like form so generally observed in coral islands, 
 by supposing that they insist on the circular lip of extinct 
 volcanic craters. 
 
 In order, by a satifactory experiment, to bring this 
 question to a direct issue, their Lordships have ordered 
 you to be supplied with a complete set of the boring 
 apparatus used by miners; leaving it to your own judg- 
 ment to select any coral island which may be well 
 adapted to the purpose, and which will lead you as 
 little as possible from the line of your survey. They 
 wish you to fix upon a convenient s'lot of the island 
 where the operation cannot be disturbed by the surf, and 
 there to bore perpendicularly, so as to perforate the 
 whole thickness of the coral, and to enter the tool sufti- 
 
'"■? 
 
 f:i' 
 
 XXVlll 
 
 IIVDUoiiUArillC INSTUl (TI(»N'N. 
 
 cicritly (Icep in tho rock on which it is based to furnish 
 spccinions for fiitme uniilysis. You will of course k(»o|) 
 a rt'i;isfor of the contents of the auj^er every time it is 
 witlidrawn, and if the structure or density of the coral 
 a|)])ear to change, it will he desirable to have a series of 
 such specimens also jjreservcd, and tallied with their cor- 
 responding depths. 
 
 Immediately that the bore hole arrives at its greatest 
 depth, provided no water has been allowed to enter, it 
 will be well to contrive some method of sending down a 
 registering thermometer, so as to ascertain the tempera- 
 ture of the bottom of the hole. 
 
 Hitherto it has been made a part of the duty of all the 
 surveying vessels to keep an exact register of the height 
 of the barometer, at its two maxima of nine, and its two 
 minima of three o'clock, as well as that of the thermo- 
 meter at the above periods, and at its own day and 
 night maximum and minimum, as well as the continual 
 comparative temperature of the sea and air. This was 
 done with the view of providing authentic data, from all 
 parts of the world, for the use of future labourers in 
 meteorology, whenever some powerful mind should 
 happily rescue that science from its present neglected 
 state. But those hours of entry interfere so much with 
 the employments of such officers as are capable of re- 
 gistering those instruments with the precision and deli, 
 cacy which alone can render these data useful, that I do 
 not think these journals should be further required. The 
 daily height of the former, and the extremes of the 
 thermometer, will be sufficient to record, unless from some 
 unforeseen cause you should be long detained in any one 
 port ; a system of these observations might then be ad- 
 vantageously undertaken. 
 
 ^(,i:: 
 
UYnunOHAPIlIC INSTIMCTIONS. 
 
 XXIX 
 
 I to furnish 
 course koo|) 
 y time it is 
 of the coral 
 ' 11 series of 
 th their cor- 
 
 its greatest 
 to enter, it 
 iliiig down a 
 he tenipe ra- 
 lly of all the 
 f the heiylit 
 and its two 
 the thernio- 
 wn day and 
 le continual 
 . This was 
 ita, from all 
 abourers in 
 ind should 
 it neglected 
 much with 
 )able of re- 
 and deli. 
 1, that I do 
 uired. The 
 mes of the 
 froiii some 
 in any one 
 ;hen be ad- 
 
 There are, however, some occasional observations which 
 cannot fail of being extensively useful iu future investi- 
 gations. 
 
 1. ])uring the approach of the periodic changes of 
 wind and weather; in which case the hygrometer also 
 should find a place in the journal. 
 
 2. The mean temperature of the sea at the equator, 
 and under a vertical sun. These observations should be 
 repeated whenever the ship is in either of those situa- 
 tions, as well in the Atlantic as in the Pacilic ; they 
 should be nuule far away from the influence of the land, 
 and at certain constant depths, suppose fifty and ten 
 fathoms, and at the surface, and the latter ought to 
 be again observed at the corresponding hour of the 
 night. 
 
 3. A collection of good observations systematically 
 continued, for the purpose of connecting the isothermal 
 lines of tlie globe, and made as above at certain uniform 
 depths. 
 
 4. Some very interesting facts might result from a 
 comparison of the direct heat of the solar rays in high 
 and low latitudes. The two therniometers for this pur- 
 pose should be precisely similar in every respect; the 
 ball of the one should be covered with white kerseymere, 
 and of the other with black kerseymere, and they should 
 be suspended far out of the reach of any reflected heat 
 from the ship, and always at the same elevation above 
 the surface of the water ; the observations should be 
 made O'.t of sight of land, in a variety of latitudes, and 
 at difterent hours of the day, ^nd every pains taken to 
 render them all strictly similar and comparative. 
 
 5. All your moteorologic instruments should early in 
 the voyage be carefully compared througl ^ut a large 
 extent of the scales, and tabulated, for the purpose of 
 
.•^>' 
 
 I 
 
 ; 
 
 . i 
 , i' 
 
 ■■: 
 
 XXX 
 
 IIYDROCRAPIIIC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 applying the requisite corrections when necessary, and 
 one or more of them should be compared with the 
 standard instruments at the Royal Society or Royal 
 Observatory on your return home. 
 
 6. All observations which involve the comparison of 
 minute differences, should be the mean result of at least 
 three readings, and should be as much as possible the 
 province of die same individual observer. 
 
 7. In some of those singularly heavy showers which 
 occur in crossing the equator, and also at the changes 
 of the monsoon, an attempt should be made to measure 
 the quantity of rain that falls in a given time. A very 
 rude instrument, if properly placed, will answer this 
 purpose ; merely a wide superficial basin to receive the 
 rain, and to deliver it into a pipe whose diameter, com- 
 pared with that of the basin, will show the number of 
 inches, &c., that have fallen, on an exaggerated scale. 
 
 8. It is unnecessary to call your attention to the ne- 
 cessity of recording every circumstance connected with 
 those highly interesting phenomena — the Aurora Aus- 
 tralis and Borealis ; such as the angular bearing and 
 elevation of the point of corruscatioa ; the bearing also of 
 the principal luniinous arches, &c. &c. 
 
 9. It has been asserted that lunar and solar halos 
 are not always exactly circular; and a general order 
 might therefore be given to the officer of the watch to 
 measure their vertical and horizontal diameters whenever 
 they occur. 
 
 Large collections of natural history cannot be ex- 
 pected, nor any connected account of the structure or 
 geological arrangement of the great continent which 
 you are to coast ; nor indeed would minute inquiries on 
 these subjects be at all consistent with the true objects of 
 ihe survey. But at the islands, and even albng the 
 
 X. 
 
 <■ 
 
HYDR0C4RA1MIIC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 XXXI 
 
 3sary, and 
 
 with tlio 
 
 or Royal 
 
 parison of 
 if at least 
 )ssible the 
 
 coast, to an observant eye, some facts will unavoidably 
 present themselves, which will be well worth recording, 
 and the medical officers of both vessels will no doubt be 
 anxious to contribute their share to the scieiitific cl..i>ac- 
 
 ter of the Survey. 
 
 F. B. 
 
 19 th December, 1835. 
 
 ers which 
 e changes 
 ) measure 
 A very 
 iswer this 
 2ceive the 
 eter, corn- 
 number of 
 scale. 
 ;o the ne- 
 cted with 
 ora Aus- 
 ring and 
 ig also of 
 
 lar halos 
 
 ral order 
 
 I watch to 
 
 i^henever 
 
 be ex- 
 
 jture or 
 
 It which 
 
 iiries on 
 
 meets of 
 
 )ng the 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS 
 
 TO 
 
 CAPTAIN BEECHEY, 
 
 SUnSEaUENTLY TO 
 
 COMMANDER E. BELCHER. 
 
 By the Commissioners for oNrcuting the 
 office of Lord High-Admiral of the 
 United Kingdom of Great Britiin and 
 Ireland, &c. 
 
 You are hereby required and directed to take the 
 Starling, surveying vessel, under your comuano, (the 
 lieutenant commanding her being directed to follow your 
 orders,) and the Sulphur and Starling being in all re- 
 spects ready, you are to put to sea and to proceed with 
 her to Plymouth Sound, for two chronometers which 
 have been selected for you there, and having determined 
 your chronometric departure from the west end of the 
 breakwater, you are to make the best of your way to the 
 
XXXII 
 
 IIYDROCiUAPHIC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 I .;' 
 
 .; 
 
 supposed place of the Eight Stones, and crossing the 
 parallel of 34" 45 north, in the longitude of 16" west, 
 you are to spread the Starling to the westward, according 
 to the clearness of the weather, so as to make sure of 
 discovering any broken or discoloured water in the 
 interval between the two vessels. 
 
 You are also to get a tew deep casts of the lead, when 
 passing the alleged place of that shoal. 
 
 You are then to repair to Madeira, to verify the rates of 
 the chronometers by the standard meridian of Funchal, or 
 if that be impractible from the state of the weather, you 
 are to proceed to Teneriffe for this purpose. 
 
 Every exertion is then to be made to cross over to 
 America with the least possible delay, and to approach 
 it on the parallel of 16" 55 south, in order to fix the 
 outer limit of the Abrothos Bank. In that latitude you 
 should carry on a series of sea-bottom soundings from 
 35^ " west, till you have arrived fairly on the main bank, 
 or in 37" 30 west, when, crossing the banks to the south- 
 wards, with aline of soundings, you ire to proceed to Rio 
 
 de Janeiro. 
 
 At that place you vill not only obtain satisfactory 
 
 ratio of the chronometers, but by setting up the transit 
 instruments, a i'ew nights 'observations of moon-culminat- 
 ing stars, will enable you, it may be hoped, to settle 
 finally its longitude. 
 
 If, however, the moon should there be unfavourable, 
 the same object may be equally well obtained at Santa 
 Catharina. The coast, between these two places, has 
 been sufficiently surveyed by Le Baron Roussin, but their 
 meridian distance requires confirmation, and your means 
 are fully capable of dispelling all further uncertainty. 
 
 From Santa Catharina, you are to pass forward 
 towards the passage between the Falkland Islands and 
 
■^ 
 
 HYDIiOGRAPHIC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 XXXI i I 
 
 ji'ossing the 
 of 16° west, 
 d, according 
 ike sure of 
 iter in the 
 
 ! lead, when 
 
 the rates of 
 Funchal, or 
 weather, you 
 
 ross over to 
 to approach 
 r to fix the 
 latitude you 
 ndings from 
 main bank, 
 ;o the south- 
 oceed to Rio 
 
 satisfactory 
 the transit 
 Dn-culminat- 
 ed, to settle 
 
 nfavonrable, 
 d at Santa 
 )laces, has 
 in, but their 
 your means 
 ertainty. 
 iss forward 
 Islands and 
 
 the Main, and taking- ne;uly the inid-ohannuls you are 
 to sound freely between the latitudes of 50" and 53'* S., 
 there being good grounds for believing that the bank 
 which unites that group of islandg to the continent, is 
 within the reach of the deep-sea lead. 
 
 You are then to round Cape Horn, or proceed by the 
 Strait of Magellan, as you may find most eligible, aiid to 
 make the best of your way to Conception, up to which 
 place it may be supposed that Captain Fitz-Roy has fully 
 couipleted his survey, although he may possibly have 
 carried it as far as Valparaiso. 
 
 This point, however, can be easily ascertained at one of 
 those ports, and from wherever it may appear to have 
 been terminated, you will forthwith begin the great work 
 which has been confided to you by us ; or if there should 
 be any doubt about the limits of Captain Fitz- Roy's labours, 
 you may safely commence at Coquimbo, bevond whicii,in 
 the time consumed by the Beagle, they could scarcely 
 have extended. 
 
 When Captain Fitz-Roy's missing despatches arrive, 
 that point will be communicated to you ; and if any part 
 of the above interval should not have been examined, and 
 particularly the dangerous banks ott'Topocalmo, you can 
 easily resume your operations to the southward, so as to 
 include them. 
 
 As Rio de Janeiro may be considered the standard 
 point to which it is so convenient to refer the meridian 
 distances obtained on the eastern side of America, so there 
 should be a similar point on the coast of Chili. The choice 
 of that station we leave to you, and there you will again 
 establish the transit instrument, and determine the dif- 
 ference of longitude from Greenwich. 
 
 The extent of coasts along the western side of America 
 
 VOL. I. d 
 
XXXIV 
 
 MYDROCRAPIirc INSTRUCTFONS. 
 
 is so gTt'iit tlmt the utmost energy will be ic(iuisite in 
 coijtluctiiijj the necessary observations, and can be ett'ectecl 
 in any reasonable time only, by skilfully combining- them 
 with the changes of seasons which take j)lace at alternate 
 periods of the year to the nortli and south of the Equator. 
 On the approach, therefore, of the monsoon to the coast of 
 Peru, you are to make the utmost expedition in removing- 
 both vessels to California, where San Francisco otters 
 a healthy and convenient spot for fresh rating the chro- 
 nometers. 
 
 Little is knoMn of this great country except that it is 
 rapidly increasin*^ in population and commerce ; and as 
 it contains but few harbours, its shores steep, and the 
 approaches bold, there will be little uiotive for detention 
 between San Francisco and the district vi!?ited by Captain 
 Vancouver. 
 
 You will then have an excellent opportunity of verify- 
 ing the longitudes uf two or three of the above officer's 
 ])rincipal points, which ditfer materially from those which 
 Scnor Quadra and the Spaniards have assigned to them, 
 and on which therefore depends the whole form of that 
 coast. 
 
 From this region you will again pursue the survey to 
 the southward along to the shores of Guatemala and 
 Mexico, and so on, alternately changing your ground 
 according to the periodic change of weather, till in a 
 succeeding season you will have met the operations pro- 
 ceeding to the northward. With the very dubious know- 
 ledge which exists of the periods of the winds, or of the 
 changes of wet and dry weather, which prevail along the 
 great continent, and the still less knowledge of the cha- 
 racter of the shores, which will in some places delay, and 
 in others rapidly accelerate your progress, it is impossible 
 
llYDlMKiUAPllIC INSTUL'CTIONS. 
 
 XXXV 
 
 rc«iuisitL' in 
 n be ert'ectocl 
 bining theiu 
 
 at alternate 
 the Equator. 
 
 the coast of 
 in removing" 
 ncisco otters 
 Iff the cliro- 
 
 )t that it is 
 ircc ; antl as 
 iep, and the 
 or detention 
 d by Captain 
 
 ity of verify- 
 bove officer's 
 
 1 tliose which 
 ed to them, 
 brm of that 
 
 je survey to 
 
 atemahi and 
 
 i^our ground 
 
 er, till in a 
 
 rations pro- 
 
 bious knovv- 
 
 s, or of the 
 
 il along the 
 
 of the cha- 
 
 s delay, and 
 
 s impossible 
 
 to determine beforehand the extent of survey, either to 
 the north or south, which you should perform in the 
 alternate seasons. This division of your labours must be 
 entrusted to your own zeal and prudence, but founded on 
 the one leading princii)le, that on those parts of the 
 coast which are uninhabited, where no ports or an- 
 chorages can ever invite the activity of commerce, and 
 where bold and straight shores offer no difficulties or 
 dangers to the passing navigator, there no precious time 
 should be wasted, or minute accuracy employed, which 
 would be as uninteresting to the geographer as useless 
 to the seaman. 
 
 AVhen obliged to stand far out to sea, in order to 
 reach the remote divisions of the survey, you are to make 
 that passage as useful as possible, by the selection of 
 nevv ground, or by vapidly crossing the curves of mag- 
 netic variation, or by searching for some of the many 
 islands or dangers with which different navigators have 
 studded the Pacific ocean, and which in numerous cases 
 will probably be found to originate in three or four 
 erroneous positions having been given to the same spots. 
 
 On most parts of the coast you will be able to obtain 
 fresh beef, flour, cocoa, and other victuals and refresh- 
 ments ; and if you should want a further supply of salt 
 provisions or of stores, you should apply to the senior 
 officer of the squadron on the western side of America, 
 who will be directed to assist you. 
 
 You are to attend to the instructions and suggestions 
 contained in a paper which has been drawn uji under 
 our directions by the hydrographer, and yon are to 
 supply a copy thereof to the lieutenant commanding the 
 
 Starl 
 
 un 
 
 You arc to leave no opportunity of transmitting to 
 
> 
 
 xxxv 
 
 HYI)R()(SUAI'niC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 the liydrographer detailed accounts of the progress of 
 the survey, as well as tracings of any part of the coast 
 which may be completed. On every occasion which may 
 offer, you are to address a brief report of your proceed- 
 ings to our Secretary for our information, and at the 
 expiration of three years passed in the execution of the 
 above survey, you are, after communicating with the 
 senior officer, to call at Valparaiso, and by rounding 
 Cape Horn, to repair to Spithead, reporting your ar- 
 rival and proceedings. 
 
 You are to prepare a berth for the botanical collector 
 for plants and seeds for his Majesty's garden at Kevv, 
 who is to be borne on the book of the Sulphur for vic- 
 tuals only, and who will mess with the warrant officers ; 
 you will furnish him with the means of landing on such 
 parts of the coast of the shores you may visit, to make 
 his collection, when it will not interfere with the 
 survey. 
 
 Should anything fatal hapjien to you on this side of 
 America, the officer next in command is hereby required 
 and directed to return with the Sulphur and Starling to 
 Spithead, calling at Rio Janeiro, if already passed that 
 place. 
 
 If that unfortunate event should happen to you on the 
 western side of America, and during the first year, the 
 officer next in command is to continue until the end of 
 that fair w'eather season, on the work which may have 
 been commenced, and then to return as above. 
 
 But should it occur after the vessels have begun their 
 operations in the northern hemisphere, it may be pre- 
 sumed that the officer next in command will have ac- 
 quired a sufficient acquaintance Avith your views to pro- 
 ceed with the remainder of the survey on his own 
 
 !l 
 
IIYDROGRAPHIC INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 XXX VI I 
 
 Ogress of 
 the coast 
 Inch may 
 proceed- 
 d at the 
 on of the 
 with the 
 rounding 
 your ar- 
 
 collector 
 
 at Kevv, 
 
 p for vic- 
 
 t officers ; 
 
 on such 
 
 to make 
 
 with the 
 
 s side of 
 required 
 arling to 
 sed that 
 
 :un their 
 be pre- 
 
 lave uc- 
 to pro- 
 
 II is own 
 
 resources, and he is hereby required and directed to carry 
 these orders into execution accordingly. 
 Given, &c., 21st Dec. 1835. 
 
 (Signed) C. Adams. 
 Geo. Elliot. 
 
 To F. N. Boechey, Esq., 
 
 Sul)sequently Commander E. Belcher, 
 
 Captain of his iMajesty's surveying vessel 
 Sulphur at Spithead. 
 By, &c. 
 (Signed) C. Wood. 
 
 N.B. While the Sulphur and Starling are within the 
 limits of the South American Station you are to consider 
 yourself under the command of Rear-Admiral Sir G. E. 
 Hammond, the commander-in-chief on that station. 
 
 By the Commissioners for executing the 
 office of Lord High Admiral of the 
 United Kingdom of Great Britain and 
 Ireland, &c. 
 Whereas we think fit that you shall be employed in 
 superintending the survey of the coasts of the Pacific, 
 and having ordered a passage for you in the Echo 
 steam-vessel, to the West Indies, you are hereby re- 
 quired and directed to repair to Chagres, and there 
 learning from his Majesty's consul the best way of cross- 
 ing the isthmus, you will proceed to Panama, in order 
 to assume the command of his Majesty's surveying vessel 
 " Sulphur," and to take his Majesty's surveying vessel 
 " Starling " under your orders. 
 
 Before you quit Chagres, you will make such arrange- 
 
XXXVllI 
 
 IIYDKOriRAl'lFTC TNSTRrCTIOXS. 
 
 B<" 
 
 i 
 
 iiionts as will prevent any loss of time in firing' the 
 rockets for determining the meridian distance across the 
 isthmus. 
 
 This object having been effected, or found to be im- 
 practicable without serious delay, you fire hereby required 
 and directed to jjroceed forthwith to carry into execution 
 our orders formerly given to your predecessor Captain 
 Beechey, as well as the instructions of our hydro<^Taj)lier, 
 which were framed under our directions ; copies of both 
 of which papers are herewith inclosed for your informa- 
 tion and guidance. 
 
 But as it appears that Japtuin Fitz-Roy has continued 
 the survey of th>^ western coast of South America, from 
 the teruiination of Captain King's Survey at the penin- 
 sula of Tres Monies as far as the Gulf of Guayaquil, you 
 are to consider as executed so much oi our orders to 
 Captain Beechey; excepting sucli furtiier details in that 
 interval of coast as you may be directed to obtain in the 
 additional instructions addressed to you by our hydro- 
 grapher, which are l">rewith transmitted. 
 
 Given under our hands, the 16th of November, 1836. 
 
 MiNTO. 
 
 Chas. Adams. 
 
 To Commander Edward Belcher, 
 Appointed to conimmid 
 
 His Majesty's sjirveying vessel Sulphur. 
 
 By command of their Lordships. 
 
 oJoiiN Barrow. 
 
NARUATIVI': 
 
 OF 
 
 A VOYAGE liOlIND THE WOULD, 
 
CHAPTER I, 
 
 Her Majesty's ship Sulphur quits England — Captain Becchey 
 invalided — Is succeeded by Acting-Commander Kellett, who 
 repairs to Panama to await instructions — Captain Belcher ap- 
 pointed to the command of the Expedition — Quits Falmouth in 
 her Majesty's steamer Echo — Touches at Lisbon, and reaches 
 Barbadoes and Jamaica — Is transferred to her Majesty's ship 
 Forte, Commodore Pell, and thence to her Majesty's ship Mada- 
 gascar, Commodore Sir J. Peyton — Is present at the blockade, 
 &c., of Carthagena, and then embarks in her Majesty's ship 
 Nimrod for Chagres — Passage up the river — Reaches Panama, 
 and takes command of the Sulphur. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 B 
 
<! 
 
 
 '■:■■■■ S« 
 
VOYAGE 
 
 ROUND THE WOULD. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 On the 25th of September, 1835, her Majesty's 
 ship Sulphur, three hundred and eighty tons, pre- 
 viously fitted for a surveying vessel, was commis- 
 sioned by Capt lin Beechey as a sixth rate, with a 
 complement of 109 men. Her Majesty's schooner 
 Starling, one hundred and nine tons, fitted as a 
 tender, was likewise commissioned by Lieutenant 
 H. Kellett, both vessels being intended for carrying 
 on the survey of the Pacific, from Valparaiso to 
 60'' 30' N. 
 
 On the 24th December they quitted Plymouth, 
 and touching at Madeira January 7th, 1836, Teneriffe 
 13th, Rio de Janeiro February 19th, St. Catherine's 
 February 28th, Monte Video April 6th, reached 
 Valparaiso, the first port wHhin the limits of their 
 survey, on June 9th. 
 
 At this port Captain Beechey, whose health had 
 
 B 2 
 
I 
 
 . 
 
 I ,i 
 
 p 
 
 iili 
 
 HISTORY OF 
 
 [183(J. 
 
 for some time been suffering, found that his con- 
 stitution was too much shattered to allow of his 
 continuing tlie conmiand, subject to sucli changes of 
 climate as it would necessarily entail ; and therefore, 
 having been invalided, he returned to England in 
 her Majesty's ship, North Star. 
 
 Lieutenant Kellett, of the Starling, was then ap- 
 pointed acting commander of the Sulphur, and 
 Lieutenant Dashwood, first of the Sul])hur, to the 
 connnand of the Starling. 
 
 The vessels then proceeded to Callao August 
 7th, Piilta August 21st, Guayaquil 24tli, Gorgona 
 Janurry 11th, 1837, and finally reached Panama 
 on January 29th, where they had been directed to 
 await further instructions from England. 
 
 On the Lords of the Admiralty receiving notice 
 of the return of Captain Beechey, their Lordships 
 thought fit to entrust me with the command. I 
 Vv'as at that time employed in Lancashire, surveying 
 its coasts ; but was merely performing that duty until 
 another steamer could be provided, to enable me to 
 resume my i)ro])er command of the Irish Sea survey. 
 On the 10th November, 183G, I received my ap- 
 pointment to lier Majesty's ship Sulphur, and a 
 passage having been ordered for me in her Majesty's 
 fiteamer Echo, I proceeded in her to Portsmouth, 
 where I had to complete some magnetic experiments, 
 and thence to Falmouth, where the illness of Lieu- 
 tenant Reid, c(mimander oi the Echo, caused some 
 little delay. This was perhaps fortunate, as a very 
 
: his coii- 
 ovv of his 
 'hanges of 
 therefore, 
 i^ngland in 
 
 ,s then ap- 
 phur, and 
 lur, to the 
 
 ,o August 
 , Gorgona 
 1 Panama 
 lirected to 
 
 ing notice 
 Lordships 
 inland. I 
 surveying 
 duty until 
 ble me to 
 ea survey. 
 1 my ap- 
 if, and a 
 
 Majesty's 
 irtsmouth, 
 3eriments, 
 
 of Lieu- 
 ised some 
 as a very 
 
 1837.] 
 
 THE EXI'iOniTION. 
 
 severe hurricane, which caused much <laniage [»> 
 houses, trees, chimney-'i, &c., occurred the day pre- 
 vious to our departure. My detention here was also 
 productive of much satisfaction and benefit, by the 
 access it aflbrded me to books, and the introduction 
 to scientific friends, particularly to Mr. James Were 
 Fox, a gentleman already well known to the 
 scientific world. 
 
 On the 30th we quitted Falmouth, having on board 
 despatclies to deliver at Lisbon, wliere we were also 
 to fill up our coal. 
 
 Here we were detained by the perverseness of 
 our engineer, and by other trivial matters, over 
 which, until the commanders of steam vessels are 
 better informed on scientific subjects, they will have 
 no control. 
 
 On the 27th December we quitted Lisbon, blindly 
 ste'uning at full coal, in spite of every remonstrance, 
 <»xpecting to reach the trade limit before it could bo 
 expended. On the last day, at the last four hours' coal, 
 1 succeeded in persuading the commander to try one 
 l)oilcr with half fuel, and he then found that the 
 difference Mas eight knots at full expenditure, and 
 six and a half with half. We did not reach the trade 
 limit, and we were left at the mercy of strong breezes 
 from N.W. to S.W. for nine days, making but trifling 
 ])rogress. 
 
 On January 1st a calm succeeded, and F caused a 
 current bottle to be put over, which readied Half- 
 moon Bay on the ishmd of Antigua on the 16th July 
 
6 
 
 ARRIVAL IN THE TRADES. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 following; having travelled during this interval, 
 nearly west, 1440 miles, or at the rate of 7*4 per 
 diem. 
 
 To our chagrin, the westerly breezes revisited us, 
 and unfortunately, instead of standing southerly where 
 smooth water and the trade might be hoped for, we 
 kept attempting to work westerly. 
 
 On January 2nd we experienced a favourable flaw, 
 by which we were compelled to make southing, and 
 at length secured the steady trade wind. 
 
 Sunday, 8th. — Being seven hundred and sixty- 
 five miles from Barbadoes, another current bottle 
 was put over. On the evening of the 13th, we 
 shipped the paddle floats, got the steam up, and at 
 daylight on the 14th made the island of Barbadoes. 
 
 At eight we passed her Majesty's ship Melville, 
 bearing the flag of Vice- Admiral Sir P. Halkett, Bel- 
 videra. Captain Strong, and Racehorse, Sir E. Home. 
 
 Having delivered to the Admiral a letter from the 
 Admiralty respecting my movements, I was di- 
 rected to proceed on immediately to Jamaica, and if 
 no ship of war was there, to proceed on in the 
 steamer to Chagres. 
 
 I was fortunate in finding all the commanders old 
 friends, and from my good messmate. Sir E. Home, 
 received much valuable information, as well as 
 hints to guide me in my future movements at Cha- 
 gres, at that period not quite so well known. 
 
 In the evening we again started for Jamaica, 
 having taken on bovi'd Mr. Sturge of the Society of 
 
[1837. 
 
 is interval, 
 of 7*4 per 
 
 3visited us, 
 herly whero 
 ped for, we 
 
 arable flaw, 
 uthing, and 
 
 and sixty- 
 Tent bottle 
 B 13th, we 
 up, and at 
 Barbadoes. 
 ip Melville, 
 alkett, Bel- 
 r E. Home, 
 er from the 
 
 I was di- 
 aica, and if 
 
 on in the 
 
 landers old 
 E. Home, 
 
 is well as 
 
 nts at Clia- 
 
 wn. 
 
 r Jamaica, 
 Society of 
 
 1837.] 
 
 PORT ROYAL. 
 
 Friends, a gentleman engaged in the examination 
 into slave aifairs. 
 
 On the morning of the 22nd we reached Port 
 Royal, and just as we were letting the steam off 
 and about to anchor, I was informed that a large 
 ship seen outside was her Majesty's ship Forte, 
 Commodore Pell, bound to Carthagena. I directed 
 the commander to proceed after her immediately, 
 and it being calm, very soon had the pleasure of wait- 
 ing on Commodore 0. Pell, who took me under his 
 immediate protection as an old friend of my father's; 
 the steamer was then released for packet duty. 
 
 I now learned, that as war, or rather a close 
 blockade of the ports of New Granada, had been 
 proclaimed by Commodore Sir J. Peyton, under 
 present circumstances it would have been unsafe to 
 proceed to Panama vid Chagres, and therefore re- 
 mained quietly the guest of my kind friend. Commo- 
 dore, (now Sir 0. Pell). 
 
 The cause of this rupture is already well known : 
 I shall therefore merely observe that until the terms 
 sent out by Lord Palmerston were fully acceded to, 
 I saw but little chance of reaching my ship, which 
 caused me some uneasiness ; fearing that the acting 
 commander of the Sulphur, on finding that the state 
 of affairs precluded the chance of communication 
 would move away to survey some other port until 
 amicable relations were restored. 
 
 On the 25th we arrived off Carthagena, where 
 we found her Majesty's ship Madagascar, bearing 
 
 
I 
 
 1; 
 
 11 
 
 i' 
 
 <i ' 
 
 CARf^AGENA. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 the pendant of Commodore Sir J. Peyton, with the 
 rest of the West Indian and North American 
 squadron blockading the port. 
 
 I was then transferred to the Madagascar, Sir 
 John Peyton very kindly following up the attentions 
 I had experienced from my friend Commodore Pell, 
 who shortly after quitted us to return to Jamaica. 
 
 In order to obtain as much information as our 
 position would afford, I volunteered to examine the 
 bay and passage to the Passo Cavallos, and became 
 the guest of Captain Warren of the Serpent, who 
 was ordered to intercept supplies destined for Car- 
 thagena by that channel. 
 
 Whilst employed on this service, one of Captain 
 Warren's crew was unfortunately shot by a person 
 concealed amongst the bushes ; and the same even- 
 ing a boat belonging to the Government reached us 
 with orders to return. Having with me the Com- 
 modore's barge and crew, I immediately determined, 
 as we were informed that hostilities had ceased, on 
 making a short cut through the Pass, the pilot of- 
 fering no opposition. I thus obtained some insight 
 into this channel, which I afterwards found was 
 not opened to foreigners. 
 
 By a small steamer it could easily be passed ; but 
 the width, barely sufficient for the oars of the barge, 
 would render it a rash step in uncovered boats, the 
 trees, which are well cleared for ten yards or more 
 back, affording ample shelter for musketry. 
 
 On reaching the port, I found the Madagascar 
 
 
 M 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ^M 
 
1837.] 
 
 CITACJRKS. 
 
 9 
 
 fascar, Sir 
 attentions 
 ifloro Pell, 
 amaica. 
 ion as our 
 imine the 
 id became 
 pent, who 
 I for Car- 
 
 •f Captain 
 y a person 
 me even- 
 iached us 
 ;he Com- 
 termined, 
 eased, on 
 pilot of- 
 le insight 
 )und was 
 
 sed ; but 
 le barge, 
 oats, the 
 or more 
 
 dagasoar 
 
 m 
 
 and other ships moored within. General Lopez, 
 having received from Bogota the fullest powers to 
 treat definitively, had consented to the demands in 
 full ; the greatp«t obstacle, the ])roduction of the 
 money, being overcome, that night five thousand 
 dollars were lodged on board the Madagascar. 
 
 The Nimrod, Just arrived from Chagres, had 
 brought Mr. Russell, the cause of the late rupture ; 
 he had been released by order of the Government. 
 It also brought the lamentable news of the decease 
 of the new consul, Mr. Turner, from a sudden attack 
 of inflammation of the stomach. 
 
 The Nimrod was then ordered to convey me to 
 Chagres, together with an officer from the Mada- 
 gascar, to seal the papers of the late consul, and 
 bring back the widow and daughters of the deceast^d. 
 
 Suj.ernumeraries are nuisances in all ships, under 
 any circumstances, and are apt to feel more than they 
 can well express : but I must candidly confess, for 
 myself, that from the moment I put my foot on 
 board the Forte, to that of quitting the Nimrod, the 
 kindness and attention I met with from their 
 several warm-hearted commanders will ever be re- 
 membered with ])leasure. 
 
 After a smart passage the Nimrod anchored off Cha- 
 gres on February 7th, and Captain Fraser and myself 
 hindcd, and connnunicated to the governor (La Bar- 
 riere) the very agreeable intelligence that hostilities 
 had terminated. I say agreeal)le, because, although his 
 ])earing ])espoke him an ardent character, he had still 
 
I 
 
 i; 
 
 f.i 
 
 10 
 
 BONGOS. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 the good sense to see that the war must injure his 
 adopted country, (being a Frenchman,) and he was 
 anxious to return to his family, which he had left at 
 his estate in Chiriqui. 
 
 The cessation of hostilities, however, appeared 
 agreeable to all classes ; although it is an undoubted 
 fact, that but a few weeks before, the people of this 
 part of the State of New Grenada were most vira- 
 lent against Great Britain, as being more imme- 
 diately connected with, and under the control of, the 
 governor of Panama. Much bravado and boasting 
 had been exhibited, but the pseudo warriors vanished 
 with the calumet of peace. 
 
 We were very cordially received by La Barriere, 
 who is a person superior to such an insignificant 
 command. Our baggage was landed, and before 
 dark restowed in a bongo* calculated to ca,rry seventy 
 bales, (of one hundred and twenty pounds each,) fitted 
 with arched thatch abaft, and capable of accommo- 
 dating six passengers. 
 
 As previous travellers have not sufficiently dwelt 
 on the details of the conveniences which may be 
 obtained for transit of despatches, passengers, bag- 
 gage, cargoes, &c., from Chagres across the isthmus, 
 by land as well as by water, I trust I shall not be 
 deemed tedious by detailing all that may positively 
 be ensured. 
 
 * A canoe hollowed out from a single tree, generally a species 
 of cedar ; frequently from eighty to ninety feet in length, by eight 
 feet width at the stern. 
 
[1837. 
 
 njure his 
 1 he was 
 id left at 
 
 appeared 
 ndoubted 
 le of this 
 lost vim- 
 re imme- 
 rol of, the 
 boasting 
 
 I vanished 
 
 Barriere, 
 significant 
 id before 
 J seventy 
 ch,) fitted 
 iccommo- 
 
 tly dwelt 
 may be 
 
 ers, bag- 
 isthmus, 
 
 II not be 
 jositively 
 
 y a species 
 h, by eight 
 
 1837.] 
 
 COST OF TRANSIT. 
 
 11 
 
 ^3 
 
 Canoes of the tonnage of seventy bales and under, 
 to proceed to Gorgona or Cruces, are to be obtained 
 at the rate of ten to eighty-five dollars ; during the 
 freshes, or miny season, something higher. 
 
 A despatch to Panama, erpress^ with the reply, 
 should be seventeen do.'lau; time, seventy-two 
 hours at longest. A smaU canoe with two persons 
 and a change (of luggage), may get to Gorgona in 
 sixteen or eighteen hours, and on to Panama in nine 
 hours, if daylight favours; but this can only be 
 performed by an European; the common proprio 
 will take his time. The cost is ten or fifteen dollars. 
 
 The " rapids," or dangers of grounding, are mere 
 bugbears. In large or heavily-laden canoes much 
 delay cr stoppage may arise during the dry season ; 
 but even with our heavy cargo, and the present dry 
 period, we were not delayed more than five hours. 
 
 No danger exists in point of highway or sea rob- 
 bery. The people, generally, may be trusted with 
 large sums of money. Part of my baggage was 
 missing for eight or ten days, but without apprehen- 
 sion on the part of the residents at Panama, who 
 affirmed " that it must be safe." And so it proved, — 
 having been delayed by the breaking down of the 
 mules. It was eventually Lome on the heads of 
 men : one package weighed one hundred and seventy-sia? 
 pounds. 
 
 As our passage was not to commence until dawn, 
 W€ took up our quarters in a house provided by an 
 Englishman, with the intention of enjoying a pre- 
 
12 
 
 DErAllTUHp: FROM (11 ACRES. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 liminary nap, the last wo oxpectod on this side of 
 Panama. In this, however, we were disappointed, 
 as the whole village assembled nearly beneath our 
 windows, and maintained a constant succession of 
 native songs and dancing, accompcanied by very dis- 
 cordant music, until dawn, when they dispersed, antl 
 we embarked, in ali seven ])ersons — the lieutenant of 
 the Madagascar, ihe purser, mate, and my steward, of 
 the Sulph^'^-, assisi;ini surgeon, and lieutenant of Ihe 
 Nimr.'id, a<. ! n-v.-'sj. 
 
 We diitiru Ui' bank, and notwithstanding our 
 ill-founded susj/icion-, -^ry soon enjoyed a most com- 
 fortable nap under our awning, formed by a thatch 
 of palm leaves, covered finally by a painted canvass. 
 
 Our crew consisted of the padron and five rowers, 
 theirrate of pay on these occasions beingfive reals e.ich, 
 or two shillings and sixpence per diem. Although 
 the cost of this canoe up was eighty-five dollars, the 
 return charge, waiting twenty-four hours, was only 
 ten. Any delay beyond twenty-four hours entails a 
 charge of five reals a day per man. 
 
 Our journey commenced at rather a slow rate. 
 The men, perhaps, had not lately worked together, or, 
 possibly, were fatigued by their danci.ig exertions of 
 the previous night. They were inclined, I thought, 
 to exhibit an independence; in fact, they would 
 move only at their own convenience ; and of this 
 we shortly had a specimen. On our arrival at Gatun, 
 about eleven mili^s from Chagres, we stopped to 
 allow the crew time to dine. Unfortunatelv their 
 
 M 
 
 
 :|- 
 
[1837. 
 
 i.s:j7.] 
 
 NKJiiT musk;. 
 
 13 
 
 is side of 
 ippointod, 
 rieath our 
 cession of 
 J very <iis- 
 ersed, and 
 utenant of 
 toward, of 
 m\ of Iht^ 
 
 nding our 
 Host com- 
 ' a tluitcli 
 [ canvass, 
 ve rowers, 
 reals each, 
 Although 
 ollars, the 
 was only 
 entails a 
 
 low rate, 
 ^ether, or, 
 ertions of 
 thought, 
 y would 
 (1 of this 
 it Gatun, 
 opped to 
 tciv their 
 
 f 
 
 wives resided here, and having already received part 
 of their pay in advance, it was not without much 
 difficulty, and by the exertion of the padron, that 
 we succeeded in getting away at all, and much 
 idkincss and dl-huiuour were exliibited by one of 
 f he crew during the remainder of our voyage. 
 
 Ab„ut three p.m. we moved on, and at sunset 
 came to for the night at a sandy beach, where our 
 crew lecoiiunenced their culinary operations. 
 
 Thev had provided themselves with rice and ripe 
 cocoa-iuits at Chagres. The cocoa-nut having been 
 grated finely, by one of Nature's provisions on the 
 banks of the river, [the stem of a plant very closely 
 studded with fine spines,] is put into an iron pot, 
 mixed with a small portion of water, and boiled 
 until it becomes milky. It is then strained by ano- 
 tlier of Dame Nature's utensils, viz. a sieve made oi 
 the Gorgonia flabellum, or Venus's fan, and the re- 
 mains finally squeezed by hand. This milky fluid is 
 boiled with the rice, and affords, with the addition of 
 sugar and rice, a very palatable mess. I am told it 
 is very delicious, and freciuently given to chih'ren. 
 
 We were not witliouf. music this night ; tne frogs 
 maintained their concert in imitation of our friends 
 at Chagres. One of our party having inquired what 
 caused the noise, and being answered serpo, a term 
 applied to frogs here, thinking it meant a snake, 
 was rather shy of the shore for the rest of the 
 night. 
 
 At dawn tlie crew breakfasted, and we then re- 
 
14 
 
 CAPTAIN FOSTER. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 II 
 
 II 
 
 commenced our journey with more spirit. At this 
 stage the oars were replaced by long poles shod with 
 iron, similar ♦o Mioso used in our Thames punts. 
 A platform consisting of n single ])lank on each side 
 enabled them to walk about fifteen feet forwards, 
 and with the pole to the shoulder walking aft main- 
 tained a rate equal to about two miles per hour 
 against the stream. 
 
 Up to this point a ship's gig could come with ease, 
 and, in case of necessity, I should think even to 
 Gorgona. Here a canoe might be despatched over 
 night, with fresh hands, in readiness to effect the 
 utmost despatch. The gig probably would get thus 
 far in half the time required by a canoe, and mostly 
 under canvass. 
 
 Justabove this position, at Palo Matea, poor Captain 
 Foster, of her Majesty's ship Chanticleer, met his me- 
 lancholy fate. The spot is not now marked, but a brass 
 tablet rudely engraved, and but an insignificant 
 monument, even for a seaman, still remains in Fort 
 Lorenzo, to show how little is thought of the pet of 
 science, when his services are no longer available. 
 
 Our progress this second day afforded us little 
 change, save in the appearance of a few more alliga- 
 tors and iguanas. Some of the latter were taken by 
 our crew, who displayed some tact in putting them 
 in durance, although cruel — viz. by breaking the 
 claw joints and passing one claw through the liga- 
 ment of its opposite member, — togglinq their hands 
 over their necks, as a seaman would term it. The 
 
 
 M 
 
1837.] 
 
 UORUONA. 
 
 15 
 
 At this 
 diod with 
 OS punts, 
 each side 
 forwards, 
 aft main- 
 per hour 
 
 with ease, 
 even to 
 3hed over 
 3ffect the 
 get thus 
 id mostly 
 
 ►r Captain 
 }t his me- 
 uta brass 
 ignificant 
 
 in Fort 
 le pet of 
 liable, 
 us little 
 alliga- 
 ;aken by 
 ig them 
 :ing the 
 the liga- 
 
 r hands 
 it. The 
 
 much esteemed 
 
 housi 
 
 re 
 
 I 
 
 ■^1 
 
 ■i 
 
 eggs of the iguana are mucn esteemed ; every noust^ 
 displays strings of them hung up to dry ; the 
 children eat them ; after which, having filled them 
 with air, they explode them by a blow of the hand, 
 in mock contention, causing a very sharp report. 
 They are similar to those of the tortoise or turtle, 
 but in size not exceeding that of the pigeon. 
 
 A second night we passed in our canoe. The 
 work of the following day became more tedious, 
 owing to the dryness of the river, which frequently 
 compelled us to land. On one occasion, our passage 
 was for some time obstructed by a large tree, which 
 had fallen across the stream at its most rapid point. 
 Fortunately, in its fall it had broken away so much 
 of the bank, which the stream, impeded in its former 
 course, had forced a channel through, that we effected 
 our ])assage by this new cut, after some little dexterity 
 on the part of the boatmen, aided by our exertions. 
 
 It may readily be imagined, that with eight 
 chronometers in the canoe, and depending on their 
 performance, it was not the difficulties or other dis- 
 agreeables of the voyage, which kept me continually 
 in torment. In fact, every time the canoe touched 
 anything more solid than water my senses were 
 excited. 
 
 About sunset we got sight of Gorgona, and were 
 shortly after housed for the night (excepting, how- 
 ever, for astronomical observations) in a habitation 
 provided by the alcalde. 
 
 Our baggage was landed by eight the following 
 
10 
 
 PANAMA. 
 
 [I8n7. 
 
 iiiuniiii^, unci it wan iiitoiuk'd tlitit the purty should 
 have moved on inimediutely for i*unuina. Hut want 
 of mules and previous arrangement detained them 
 until noon, when the greater part had moved for- 
 ward. My astronomical observations detained me 
 until three, when Lieut. JJevan aiul myself nu)unted 
 our steeds, intending to reach Panama that evening. 
 
 One of the mates was left behind iu charge of 
 three chronometers, to await my return for rocket 
 operations, in order to complete the meridian dis- 
 tance between the Atlantic and Pacific, or between 
 Chagres and Panama, where the tideis have effect. 
 A party from the Sulphur, which had been ordered 
 to meet me here, having been, by the mistake of the 
 guide, taken to Cruces, missed me entirely. 
 
 Shortly before sunset, having lost our guide, we 
 fell into the wrong road, but eventually met with 
 shelter for the night in a hut where nothing else 
 could be obtained. In the morning, by the assist- 
 ance of the i)easant, our host, we were enabled to 
 reach the main road, and about two that evening 
 arrived at Panama, when we found that those who 
 had preceded us had also been similarly unfortunate. 
 
 Our first efforts were directed to free ourselves 
 from the garrapatas, or ticks, which infest the woods 
 of this country, and we then proceeded to ])ay our 
 respects to tlie widow and family of the late consul, 
 whom we found residing at the house of Mr. Dawson, 
 the only English merchant (although by birth a 
 Russian,) resident here. 
 
 . J 
 
 ' li 
 
1837.] 
 
 PANAMA. 
 
 17 
 
 y should 
 Jut want 
 lmI tlic'iii 
 )ve(l tbr- 
 lined mc 
 mouuti'd 
 evening, 
 harge of 
 )r rocket 
 dian dis- 
 botween 
 f(} effect. 
 I ordered 
 ke of the 
 
 ffuide, we 
 met with 
 hing else 
 he assist- 
 labled to 
 ; evening 
 lose wlio 
 ortunate. 
 ourselves 
 le woods 
 pay our 
 * consul, 
 DavNson, 
 birth a 
 
 4 
 
 The Sulphur, on arriving, had ascertained the 
 state of affairs, and finding* it probabh; that they 
 wouhl not immediately l)e settled, her commander 
 had (l(»eme<l it prudent to avoid any chance of col- 
 lision with any of the braggadocios, (who volunteered 
 to capture her if necessary,) an<l therefore fixed on 
 the island of Taboga, about twelve niilcB distant, 
 where he had fixed his observatory. 
 
 Am it became important that the distances should 
 be measured from Panama, from whence the rockets 
 might be seen, and as all our western operations were 
 to hinge on this position, the Sulphur was ordered 
 to repair to Panama, and the observatory was erected 
 on the N.E. angle of the fortifications. 
 
 Instructions, in reply to notes forwarded to our 
 various consuls from the foreign office, had already 
 reached from Bogota, directing the several authori- 
 ties to afford me every facility ; and I now found that 
 no impediment would have been offered, even had I 
 arrived in the midst of the blockade. The instruc- 
 tions to the commandant at Chagres warranted 
 this, and the facilities offered by the authorities at 
 Panama fiilly evinced their disposition to second 
 the views of the governor of Bogota. 
 
 % VOL. I. 
 
 C 
 
.,,_ja... 
 
 II 
 
 ' v!l^ 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 Assume the command of the Sulphur — Escort Consul's family to 
 Chagres, and measure meridian-distance by chronometers — Em- 
 bark the ladies in her Majesty's ship Nimrod.and re-measure dis- 
 tance to Gorgona — Another attempt with the rockets from Cara- 
 veli ; unsuccessful ; E> olosion bags from tree on Ato.Ormigero ; 
 successful — Measure distance to Panama — Power of Moteros in 
 carrying burdens — Opinion on rocket measurement compared 
 with chronometer — Present state of Panama — Move to Taboga 
 — Leave Taboga — Visit Baia Honda — Magnetic Island 
 (Pueblo Nueva) — Pass Gulf of Nicoya — Papagayo gusts — 
 Arrive at Realejo — Obtain supplies — Port of Realejo — Quit 
 Rfialejo by the Barra Falsa — Repair to Libertad — Visit San Sal- 
 vador — Return and hear of fatal accident to coxswain — Surf — 
 Difficulty of getting to ship — Succeed, and quit Libertad — 
 Touch at Manzanilla (Port of Colima) — Reach San Bias — Visit 
 Tepic — Quit San Bias for Sandwich Islands. 
 
20 
 
 (iORGONA TO CHAGRES. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 t.) 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 \ 
 
 I 'j 
 
 Having formally taken the command of the 
 Sulphur, and replaced Lieutenant Kellett in the 
 Starling, Lieutenant Dashwood was invalided, and 
 several of the Sulphur's crew were discharged for 
 passage to England. 
 
 The affairs of the late consul's family having been 
 arranged, and the necessary preparations completed 
 for their removal, I recommenced my journey 
 to Gorgona with five pocket chronometers. We 
 formed a complete escort for the ladies ; and, arriving 
 sliortly before them at Gorgona, made all the 
 necessarv arranwments for such comfort as could 
 be i)rocured on their water excui-sion down to 
 Chagres. 
 
 Accompanied by Lieutenant Collinson, who wa^i 
 already previously prepared for my immediate depar- 
 ture, we stepped into a light canoe at eight the 
 same evening, but did not succeed in reaching 
 Chaijres before noon the dav folio winrr. Tlie ori- 
 ginal agreement for this canoe, down and to return, 
 was six dollars ; but our increased number induced 
 

 1836.] 
 
 GORGONA. 
 
 21 
 
 them to impose; therefore rather than lose an 
 instant I was glad to hear the paddles in motion at 
 the price of ten. 
 
 About dawn the ensuing morning, the heavy- 
 canoes arrived, and as our repose had been disturbed, 
 in the same manner as on o'lr former visit, we were 
 fully prepared to receive our fair travellers, for whom 
 we had prepared coffee and other requisites by the 
 aid of our kind friend Captain Fraser, — their meeting 
 with whom was a melancholy one, as about one year 
 before he had landed them, in the bloom of health 
 and enjoyment, at this very spot. 
 
 At eight, we took our leave of them, they em- 
 barking in the Nimrod, and we proceeding to our pro- 
 fessional toils, under a broiling sim, on the ramparts 
 of San Lorenzo. 
 
 We had arranged to return at two to Gorgona, 
 but our crew had been tampered with, were intoxi- 
 cated, and it w^as merely by giving way to all their 
 absurd demands for inc^-ease of pay that we even- 
 tually departed at dark. 
 
 At ten on the 20th, we reached Gorgona, and 
 tried a second set of rockets on Mount Caravel i, but 
 being of faulty construction they failed, bursting the 
 instant they were fired, without ascent. 
 
 A second station, by bags of powder exploded 
 from a high tree on Ato. Ormigero, succeeded. 
 
 On the following morning we commenced our 
 journey to Panama, the heavy chronometers being- 
 packed in a basket of hay, with the pocket watches 
 
 ''1 
 
 'I 
 
22 
 
 PANAMA. 
 
 [1836. 
 
 above them; the whole secured on tho head and 
 back of a light-footed Motero. 
 
 Some of these men carry enormous burthens ; I 
 have already mentioned one case weighing one 
 hundred and seventy-six pounds, brought on the head. 
 It was in this manner, in a chair with the back se- 
 cured to the head, and the hind legs supported by 
 stirrups to the shoulders, that the Padres travelled in 
 central America and the Equador. It is not impro- 
 bable that some of these individuals exceeded the 
 above weight. 
 
 On my arrival at Panama I found the weather 
 continued so very hazy, and the light of the moon 
 interfered so much, that further operations were 
 delayed until the termination of our survey of the 
 bay, when another attempt was made from Ato. 
 Ormigero to connect Gorgona with Panama by ex- 
 plosion bags. 
 
 No one could have felt a greater interest than 
 myself in these operations, and provided I could 
 have been the actor, endued with ubiquity, very 
 possibly I might have been better satisfied with 
 the results. But I have long acted in con- 
 junction with others, and I recollect only two or 
 three instances where comparisons obtained by 
 simultaneous signals from ship to shore, and within 
 three miles, have been satisfactor}'. I know this 
 from possessing two first-rate pocket chronometers, 
 whose differences could not exceed 0',4", but which 
 ner*~rtheless exhibited as much as two seconds error 
 
¥ tl 
 
 
 n 
 
n 
 I?! 
 
 r ' 
 
 It' I 
 
1 
 
 183G.] 
 
 PANAMA. 
 
 2:j 
 
 in comparisons thus taken. I have frequently taken a 
 set of comparisons with our whole force of chronome- 
 ters immediately after an assistant, and found errors 
 of five-tenths or more. I am therefore perfectly 
 satisfied that good pocket watches, previously rated 
 at the extreme positions, are more worthy of confi- 
 dence than explosion of rockets. We seldom find 
 two observers note the flash of a gun in perfect 
 accordance, even at three miles. 
 
 Panama was formerly a place of some note, but 
 shortly after the visit of Ulloa, about a century ago, 
 may be said to have arrived at its zenith. The 
 remains of the buildings evince wealth, and afford 
 some idea of the extent to which they hoped to carry 
 their improvements. But they are now fast falling 
 into decay. The port is seldom visited by vessels of 
 any size, and the fortifications, which originally werr 
 admirably constructed, are rajiidly following the fate 
 of the houses. 
 
 The population is chiefly a mixed race : few 
 Spaniards are to be found. One Englishman, and the 
 American consular agent, comprise all the society we 
 met. This doubtless will change the instant the 
 steam navigation is in force. Inns and lodging-houses 
 must then arise for the accommodation of those pur- 
 suing this route. 
 
 There is every fiacility for erecting a substantial 
 pier, and improving the inner anchorage, which must 
 follow the arrival of the steamers, unless they still 
 
 ■ IJ 
 
 ii 
 
 I! I:, 
 
 'PA 
 
,vi 
 
 
 24 
 
 TABO(!A. 
 
 [1807. 
 
 submit to tlie nilseral)Ie landing at the sea-port gate, 
 which is as filtiiy as it is ineonvenicnt. 
 
 Of the governor we saw nothing, except officially. 
 I made the acquaintance of General Herran, with 
 M'hom I was much pleased. He has been at the 
 British court, and w»«! a friend of the late Admiral 
 Fleming. I am indebted to him for his influence 
 in preserving order at our (juarters on the lines. 
 
 Panama attbrds the usual sup]»lies which ai'o to be 
 obtained in these tropical regions, and at mode- 
 rate i)rices, but vessels wishing to procure water, 
 bullocks, &c., can obtain them more readily a' the 
 island of Taboga. 
 
 Having comj)leted our operations at Panama, as 
 well as the survey of the immediate neigh bourhoor', 
 the Sulphur was moved to the anchorage at Taboga, 
 where she remained completing water and the ne- 
 cessai; arrangements for the run up the coast. On 
 quitting Panama, our chronometric force was twenty, 
 two; of these seventeen were trustworthy. 
 
 On the IStli March, we quitted Taboga, and 
 pursued our voyage along the coast, with the Star- 
 ling in company. On being becalmed off a deep 
 indentation of the coast, which appeared to be the 
 mouth of a river, I left in my gig, in order to fix 
 one of its points, directing the ship to follow in 
 should the breeze permit, and the signal for depth be 
 made. About noon she was anchored in what we found 
 to be Baia Honda, and about four p.m. our operations 
 
1837.] 
 
 MACiNKTIC ISLAND. 
 
 25 
 
 having Ikhmi completed, we again put to sea in our 
 route to Realejo. 
 
 As the 21st March was at iiaiul, I dcterniined on 
 selecting the first eligil)Ie spot for making our first 
 suite of quarterly observations, and on the evening 
 of the 20th was fortunate enough to find safe Land- 
 ing on a very convenii'ut island off the mouth of the 
 river leading to Pueblo Nueva. 
 
 As these observations were principally magnetic, 
 this island received the name of Magnetic Island. 
 No natives who could afTord us any information pre- 
 sented themselves ; and all we succeeded in eliciting, 
 was that Pueblo Nueva was situated some distance 
 up the river, of which a very partial survey was at that 
 time made. 
 
 Our operations here having been completed, we 
 moved on for Realejo. On the 28th, passed the Island 
 of Cano, and on the 20th, betMeen it and the main, 
 found ourselves at daylight, off the mouth of a large 
 inlet, wiiich we had not time to examine ; the 
 current setting strong to the eastward ; the weather 
 very hazy, followed by thunder, lightning, and rain. 
 
 On the morning of the 30th, we passed the Gulf 
 of Nicoya, and close to the island termed Cape 
 Blanco, at its western point. Here we found ourselves 
 obstructed by a point off which the breakers and 
 rocky ledges above water, extended a considerable 
 distance to seaward. The soundings were regular 
 from twenty-five to eleven, and eight and a half 
 fathoms, hard sand, in which latter depth we tacked 
 
 
 '■ a 
 
 ■^ " 
 
26 
 
 VOLCAN UK LKON. 
 
 [1H:37. 
 
 ''■' 
 
 Huccessivoly within a milo and a half of tlic shore 
 surf, and an outer roller about half a niilo from us 
 on the last tack. The weather duriiipf the whole 
 day was thick and hazy over the land, followed at 
 nightfall by thunder, lightning, and rain. 
 
 These symptoms of the approach of the bad season 
 rendered me doulily anxious to get t(? the northward, 
 as our crew were not at tliis period in the best 
 condition, and the moist heat we experienced was very 
 oppressive. 
 
 At daylight the weather hazy, and Cape Blanco 
 still in sight. A short distance to the westward we 
 ob.sorved a sandy sloping bluff, off which a shelf, ap- 
 parently composed of sand, with conical studded 
 rocks, extended a considerable distance to seaward. 
 On a sandy islet near the bluff, two very remarkable 
 ears jutting up, off' which we tacked in thirteen and 
 a half fiithoms, sand. 
 
 On the 2nd, atmos[)here hazy, breeze freshened 
 considerably, which on the 3rd reduced us to double 
 reefs, gradually decreasing towards daylight, when 
 the Volcan de Leon, as well as that of Viego, were 
 plainly seen, and j)articularly well defined. These 
 strong breezes just at the point we met them, viz. 
 off the Punta Santa Catalina, are the prevailing 
 gusts termed Paj^agayos, which blow with great 
 force out of that Gulf, and frequently cause the loss 
 of spars. Many fish of large size were seen, and 
 several dolphin caught. 
 
 At noon we had reached Point Desolada — a most 
 
1837.] 
 
 ISLAND OF OAKDON. 
 
 27 
 
 appropriate name certainly ; it seems almost in 
 mockery that one or two stunted slirubs are allowed 
 to stand on its summit — objects at all times of in- 
 terest to us. 
 
 We failed in reaching Realejo before dark, and 
 not knowing its dangers, preferred standing ott' and 
 on during the night, in preference to the being rocke«l 
 to sleep by anchoring in the heavy ground swell, or 
 lulled by the roaring of the surf, at all times par- 
 ticularly loud on this coast. The sailing remarks 
 will be found in the appendix. 
 
 At eight the following morning we anchored about 
 a mil(^ from the western end of Cardon, where, on 
 landing, I found a mark probably left by the Conway 
 when she ex.amined this place a few years back. 
 
 The Island of Cardon is of volcanic ori^nn, and 
 the beach contains so much iron, that the sand, 
 which j)robably is washed uj), caused the mag- 
 netic needle to vibrate 21" from zero. I do not, 
 however, believe that the needle was nmch, if at all, 
 affected on the summit of the island, where our 
 observations were conducted. Our position was on 
 its new cliffy angle. The boats having examined 
 and found tiio anchorage safe, the Sulphur was 
 brought in and anchored within the island of 
 Ascrradores, in perfectly still water, four fathoms 
 mud. 
 
 On the Island of Aserradores our tide gauge was 
 established, being free from undulation, altliougli 
 directly open to seaward throu^n Barra Falsa ; and 
 
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 vtV-„<.. 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 
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 1.1 f.-^ll^ 
 
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 1-25 i 1.4 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
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 33 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 

 S^ 4is 
 
 
28 
 
 ISLAND OF ASERRADORES. 
 
 [1837, 
 
 r^ 
 
 Ul: 
 
 we were fortunate enough to find a good well of 
 fresh water close to the beach. 
 
 The principal object of my visit at this moment 
 was to complete our supplies of sugar and rum, which 
 we had been inforaied by our naval friends were 
 good and reasonable, and, moreover, the produce of 
 a farm belonging to one of our countrymen, Mr. 
 Bridge. 
 
 In this we were rightly informed, and the purser 
 was immediately despatched to make the necessary 
 purchases, as well as bullocks, and other necessaries. 
 
 Trusting to the accounts I had read of the mag- 
 nificence of this port, I had fully intended placing 
 the ship near the town. The visit of the captain of 
 the port soon undeceived me. He assured me that 
 at low water not more than three feet would be 
 fouiid near the town, and so narrow, thct there was 
 barely room for the oars of my gig, and then only 
 by careful steerage. Indeed, I found that although 
 the ship might be warped two miles higher up, she 
 would there be entirely shut from any breeze, her 
 yard"> probably locked in the trees, and swarming 
 with mosquitoes. I deem these remarks particu- 
 larly called for, as the accounts given in the Modern 
 Traveller may otherwise mislead. 
 
 This port, if a settlement were established on the 
 islands of Aserradores, Cardon, or Castanon, would 
 probably be more frequented ; but the distance from 
 the position where vessels usually anchor (within 
 Cardon) to Realejo, is a sad drawback to vessels 
 
J 
 
 1837.] 
 
 ISLAND OF ASKRliAUORKS. 
 
 29 
 
 touching merely for supplies. Rum is also too cheap 
 and too great a temptation for the seamen. Supplies 
 of poultry, fruit, hullocks, grain, &c, are, however, very 
 reasonable, and of very superior quality ; turkeys are 
 said to attain an incredible weight ; they still, how- 
 ever, justly maintain a very high reputation. 
 
 At the period of our visit, a young American had 
 imported machinery for a cotton mill, and had also 
 advanced ftuuls to a family of Leon for the cul- 
 tivation of the cotton plant on the island of Aser- 
 radores. But although the house on the island was 
 in progress, and the machinery erected between 
 Realejo and San Antonio, I much doubt the 
 success of either speculation. Cotton thrives Avell 
 in the interior, but not on Mangrove islands such as 
 Aserradores, and the plan of the mill power I nmcli 
 question. 
 
 These people also are too indolent for the suc- 
 cessful pursuit of anything which requires perseve- 
 rance. They are attracted for the time by the 
 novelty, and rave on the idea of the fortunes they 
 are to make, but one unlucky accident overthrows 
 all their hopes and stability. 
 
 The present village of Realejo (for the name of 
 Town cannot be applied to such a collection of 
 hovels) contains one main street about two hundred 
 yards in length, with three or four cross openings, 
 leading to the isolated cottages in the back lanes of 
 huts. 
 
 With the exception of the houses occupied by the 
 
 I!- I 
 
 ii f 
 
 'm 
 
 it !! 
 
 !;■ w 
 
 M 
 
30 
 
 HE ALE JO. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 ^- 
 
 fommandaiit, our Vice-consul, Mr. Forster, admi- 
 nistrador of customs, and one or two others, there is 
 not a decent house in the place. The ruins of a well- 
 constructed church attest its former respectability ; 
 but the place is now little more than a collection of 
 huts. 
 
 The inhabitants generally present a most unhealthy 
 appearance, and there is scarcely a cottage without 
 some diseased or sickly-hued person to be seen. 
 
 Our botanical collector proceeded to Leon, in order 
 to make the most of his time. The purser and 
 surgeon visited the sugar establishment of Mr. Bridges 
 at San Antonio, but the duties of the survey detained 
 me at the ship. 
 
 About a mile below the town the ruins of an old 
 but well built fort, with three embrasures, are yet to 
 be traced, and between it and the town are the floor 
 timbers of a brig, which ventured up to grave, but 
 fell to pieces before she was taken in hand. Vessels 
 of 100 tons have grounded at the pier of Realejo 
 Custom-house, but above that they would be left 
 dry at low water. 
 
 Mr. Forster, the Vice-consul, happened to be on 
 a visit to Grenada during our visit; we therefore 
 had not the pleasure of becoming acquainted with 
 him. 
 
 On the 10th the Starling rejoined us, and our 
 observations and interior survey being complete, we 
 moved to the outer anchorage, to finish the external 
 ])arts of our plan. 
 
 '. '}j 
 
1837.] 
 
 KKALE.IO. 
 
 31 
 
 On the 12th the Starling was despatched to Li- 
 bertad in order to make the necessary arrangements for 
 obtaining time there, at the instant of our arrival, 
 {IS well as to make enquiries, and provide for our 
 visit to San Salvador, where our Consul-general, Mr. 
 Chatfield, resided. 
 
 Realejo is the only port after quitting Panama 
 where British residents can be found, or supplies con- 
 veniently obtained. Water of the finest quality is 
 obtained from a powerful stream, into v/hich the 
 boat can be brought and the casks filled by baling, 
 alongside of a small wall raised to cause a higher 
 level. Here the women resort to wash, but by 
 due notice to the Alcalde, this is prevented. A 
 guide is necessary on the first visit, after entering 
 the creek which leads to it, and which should only 
 be entered at half flood ; it is necessary to pole the 
 remainder, the channel not having sufficient width for 
 jjai-s. 
 
 The water from the well on the island of Aser- 
 radores is good, but I have a great objection to water 
 infiltrated through marine sand and decayed vegetable 
 matter, and consider the chances of sickness one step 
 removed by obtaining it from a running stream. 
 
 The mountains in the neighbourhood of Realejo 
 are magnificent, particularly to the spectator at twelve 
 or fifteen miles oft* shore ; but as they will be subse- 
 quently noticed, as well as the Estero Dona Paula, 
 which leads up to Leon, I shall not advert to them 
 further at present. 
 
 ii> 
 
 
32 
 
 LIBERTAD. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 
 On the 13th of April, we quitted Realejo, and aided 
 by land and sea breezes, reached the anchorage off 
 Libertad, on the 15th, by eight a. m. Here I found my 
 good friend Kellett had fiilly met my wishes, and 
 after breakfast, the surf being then moderate, we 
 risked our persons, not however without a wetting, 
 and gained the Custom house on the beach, which is 
 little better than a mud hut, with a small cabin at 
 one end for the officer. Here we were detained 
 waiting for mules until two p. m., and without any 
 respectable place of shelter, and nothing to amuse 
 us, or even to kill time. This delay became doubly 
 annoying as it would prevent our reaching San Sal- 
 vador before dark. We mounted our mules, how- 
 ever, which seemed to promise us some little vexation 
 from their miserable condition, and, accompanied by 
 Kellett, set off for San Salvador. The mules, which 
 were before blown in the exertions to evade their 
 pursuers, and much worried by innumerable horse 
 flies, which caused the blood at times to roll freely 
 down their faces, could neither be persuaded nor 
 compelled to move at a faster than cargo rate, little 
 exceeding a walk. 
 
 The road is through a very mountainous tract, and 
 for the first five miles the great effort is made to ascend 
 by a bridle road, little better than a goat path, or very 
 similar to the roads between Gorgona and Panama, 
 On reaching the highest pitch from whence we could 
 observe the sea, the scenery grew more interesting, 
 and as the sun declined it became beautiful. At 
 
1837.] 
 
 A ROUGH NIGHT. 
 
 30 
 
 this season too every thing aj)pe.are(l to disadvantage, 
 the atmosphere being liazy, and the vegetation 
 I Kirched ; they were also burning tlie trees, &e., to 
 (dear and manure, and the temperature was sultry in 
 the extreme. 
 
 About seven we reached tlie vilhige o^ Ilojia, but 
 liardly had we made our ealcuhitions on reaching tl»e 
 city of San .Salva(U)r, at nine, when the sound of 
 thunder and the appearance of heavy bhick clouds 
 caused us to pause. Our guide also made his pre- 
 parations for the coming storm with so much deter- 
 mination, by unsaddling and packing our baggage 
 under the centre of an open horse-shed, that it was 
 receive^I by us as a signal for no further remonstrance. 
 
 Thunder, lightning, and rain we had in profusion. 
 But there are few evils without some trifling loophole 
 tlirough which comfort may be derived, or at all events 
 imagined, by those in the humour to make the best 
 of all disasters. The change of tenipei*ature was a 
 great relief, and we consoled ourselves by looking 
 forward to the enjoyments of a cool ride when the 
 clouds should have passed. The only shelter we had 
 was shared with our mules ; and, perched on our 
 respective saddles and baggage, aided by Indian corn 
 leaves, we were glad to sup on a couple of eggs, 
 and a plaintain each, not having touched food since 
 six A.M. 
 
 After enjoying sundry nai)s in every imaginable 
 position, interrupted by the encroachment of a leak 
 at one time, or the too near approach of the nose of 
 
 VOL. I. D 
 
 ! 
 
 / 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■ 
 
 i| 
 
 II 
 
 ^ 
 
 ), f 
 
 
34 
 
 SAN SALVADOR. 
 
 [1H37 
 
 „.ii 
 
 a mule at another, we arose at inidiiipflit, resa(ldle<l 
 the beasts, and with a clear sky resumed our Journey. 
 
 At two we entered th'^ city of San Salvador, and 
 were misdirected by the guard to the house of the 
 French Consul, who was not a little surprised at 
 such an unexpected visit. He was, however, ex- 
 cessively civil, ottered us accommodation, and finally 
 sent his servant to conduct us to the house of our 
 Consul-general, Mr. Chatfield, who turned out with 
 much good-humour, provided refreshments, and liaving 
 chatted away tlie interval emi)loyed in preparing our 
 beds, we finally enjoyed an uninterrupted repose in 
 civilized style. 
 
 We were amused in the morning by the sound 
 of martial music, and found a band of eight heroes 
 very pompously attired, parading the street, but 
 unaccompanied by troops. At ten they returned 
 with the latter, in number about twenty ; the master 
 of the band, fancying himself at least a general, 
 and using as many antics as a gander, leading forth 
 his troop to the green. The whole number re- 
 minded one much of Liston's brave armv in Bom- 
 bastes Furioso. 
 
 The town is very prettily situated on a level plain 
 or amphitheatre, from which several lofty mountains 
 rise, that of the Volcano de San Salvador being the 
 most conspicuous. The streets are broad, and very 
 clean for a foreign town ; the houses have very 
 projecting eaves; they are substantial, although 
 lightly constructed, and of one story only, in con- 
 
 ■1 fii; ■ I 
 
 m 
 
 II I 
 
1837.] 
 
 KVILS OV INDKl'KNDKNCK. 
 
 35 
 
 sequciicc of the liability to t'lvciuent shocks of earth- 
 (|uako. They have internal conrts, an<l aj)pear to 
 ])o«sess convenience, space, and comfort. All are 
 well supplied with water by a(|ueducts; have a ^ood 
 market, every necessary bein«^ cheap, and abundant ; 
 and notliin<( is wantino- to their comfort Imt society, 
 and strictly enforced order. The want of this latter, 
 I am informed, is a sad drawbjick ; and it never 
 can be attained under their present laws, liabits, &c. 
 One of these habits, arising from their new system of 
 Independence, is entering your house, and seating 
 themselves without invitation : any opposition might 
 be attended by un])leasant results — even to assassi- 
 nation. 
 
 During the day we accompanied Mr. Chatfield to 
 call on the President Morasan, an intelligent gen- 
 tlemanly person, very much like the portrait of 
 Bolivar, which at the time was suspended over his 
 chair. We afterwards called to make our apologies 
 to the French Consul, who, being from home, re- 
 turned the call, and pressed us strongly to dine the 
 day following, but as our return was imperative, we 
 were obliged to decline the honour. 
 
 The temperature in the shade during our stay 
 averaged 76°. 
 
 At six the next morning, we commenced our 
 journey to Libertad. The weather was cool and 
 pleasant, from the effects of the late rain. The 
 country in the neighbourhood of the city appears to 
 be in cultivation — apparently sugar-cane. Cattle 
 
 1) '2 
 
 I 
 
 
m 
 
 A r>KSKin'EK. 
 
 [18:J7 
 
 i 
 
 r: 
 
 ■I 
 
 urc jilMiiidsint, aiul, altliou<?li in a stnti' of civil war, 
 the toils of cleaniin- tiic soil of wood, by lire and axo, 
 arc still in activity. 
 
 On reachinff the highest point of the ridge, wliich 
 commands the sea as well as the surrounding moun- 
 tains, we had anticipated a grand treat, but the 
 action of the sun on the recently saturated earth had 
 clothed all in vapour. 
 
 At a stream, half the distance down, we stopped to 
 take our luncheon, which we enjoyed under the 
 shadow of aii immense tree overhanging the stream. 
 Our poor beasts, however, were grievously tormented 
 by their enemies, the horse-flies, which caused them 
 literally to How with blood, but more particularly 
 about the head and neck. 
 
 About two o'clock, as we neared the beach, I 
 perceived Lieutenant Collinson awaiting my arrival. 
 His presence on shore, backed by the expression of 
 his countenance, foretold disaster; and I very 
 shortly learned that my gig had been overwhelmed 
 in the surf, and my coxswain drowned. This was 
 a severe blow to me, as I had never before lost a 
 man since I held a command. 
 
 On our arrival at the beach, I found no less than 
 fourteen hands on shore, and not the slightest chance 
 of passing the surf We were compelled patiently 
 to await the following dawn, at which moment the 
 sea, owing to the land ])reeze blowing during the 
 night, and until six in the morning, usually overcomes 
 the impetus given by the sea breeze of the day. 
 
IJ I 
 
 ' f 
 
 1807.] 
 
 AI'ATHY or UP. ArTHOKlTIES. 
 
 y; 
 
 IJy tlio HtJitoinont of Lk'uU'imiit Colliiisoii, I found 
 that uuv niisfortiiiio was witiii'ssod by tlio pcrNons 
 ill ])o\vor with tiie most perfect aputiiy ; and of this 
 1 had ocuUir demonstration in a second misjiap. 
 
 In the mornin*:!^ wo suceeeded in passin<^ our 
 whale-boat, which ^ot out well. Kellett followed 
 in his ^i^, l)ut unfortunately ^ot into a heavy roller, 
 and for some minutes I was at a loss to ascertain 
 M'ho were saved, my attention beinfjf directed to 
 Kellett. By ^reat exertion 1 prevailed on one or 
 two natives to assist the seamen, who, althouoh not 
 more than knee dcej), were sinkin^jf from exhaustion, 
 and would i)robably without aid have been carried 
 back by the efflux. I was myself, althouoh fresh, 
 scarcely able to keep my footinof, the boulders ami 
 sand falling l)ack with such force on the efflux. 
 
 During this affair, the commandant stood mute, 
 nor did those under his command offer the slightest 
 assistance. However, their miserable appearance 
 but too truly indicated their utter helplessness and 
 imbecility. 
 
 We succeeded in recovering the gig, which was 
 slightly stove, and as we could not get off for several 
 days, we employed ourselves in preparing her for 
 the next attempt. 
 
 Every scheme to effect a communication, by casks, 
 rockets, &c., failed, and every attempt to take ad- 
 vantage of a lull proved abortive, although Kellett 
 watched in the water, with the boat afloat, for some 
 hours. 
 
 I 
 
 I ; 
 
 y 
 
 : 
 
 II 
 
38 
 
 MMKUTAH. 
 
 [1837 
 
 li 
 
 
 .''I 
 
 At Icii^rtli, on tlic morning- of tho 22 A|)ril, we huc- 
 (•('(mNmI ill |)asHiii;»' Kclk'tt out in liin ^i^ hy nix A. M. 
 We Imd no servi('i'al»le wiiiilc-lMnit ivniaiiiii% ami 
 Olio of our }x\}yH was tliorcforo sent. SIk^ Hwainpcd 
 in a heavy roller, l)»it the oflieer, Mr. Speck, mate, 
 and erew, havin<»- been selected for the duty and 
 well prepared, swam in with the connecting line 
 fast to our cutter, wliich was :noored withont the 
 danpfer limit. They also succeech'd in bringinn^ in 
 the boat, but bil^rcd. A cask containin*,^ implements 
 was then hauled in, into which the clothes and in- 
 struments were |)acked and sent oil' by the line to 
 tlu^ cutter. Having repaired our boat raj)idly, we 
 made an attempt, and fortunately passed without a 
 spray. 
 
 The ' ody of the coxswain was not fonnd, altliou,i,di 
 the shores were searched daily. It is probable that 
 he was taken by the sharks, as he was a light hand 
 and expert swimmer. 
 
 " Port of Libertad." One would naturally expect 
 from this title that something preten»ling to a bay, 
 or deep indentation at least, would have warranted 
 the aj)pellation. But a straight sandy beach, be- 
 tween two slightly ]>rojecting ledges of rock about 
 one mile asunder, forms the plaj/a of Libertad : 
 it is law and interest only that have made it a port. 
 
 At times the bay is smooth, but the substratum 
 at the beach being of large smooth boulders of com- 
 pact basalt, the instant the surf rises they are freed 
 from their sandy covering, and a dangerous movhi() 
 
 ilif 
 
1837.] 
 
 MMKUTAI). 
 
 no 
 
 stony bottom loft, on whuAx tlio boat pfromidcd. W«» 
 wvrv. iiitoniuMl that it is ^oiiorally viniciit for tiirco 
 or four <layM at full and Hian^j^c, winch rorrosponded 
 to tho timo of oin* visitn. 
 
 The villa^yo containH about twrlvo huts, with a 
 family of about six in each. Thoro is also a lon^' go- 
 vernment buildin^if constructed of adobes, in which 
 the tackle of the bon^fos used for landinp^ cargoes 
 is usually stored; and a cabin for the conmiandant 
 at its extremity served for parlour, l)edroom, 
 kitchen, &c. The only pet birds were fi^htin^ cocks 
 perched under the chairs, or probably tethered in 
 the corners. Cockttf^htin^ is a complete j)as8ion in 
 Spanish America. 
 
 This is all that can be hoj)ed for at Libertad. 
 
 The rollers which set in on this beach curl .and 
 break at times in four or five fathoms, at least 
 a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which arc tho 
 most dangerous, are caused by the offset or efflux. 
 
 The sand beach is composed chiefly of ma«^netic 
 iron sand, the dried su|)erstratum, about one inch iu 
 thickness, caking in flakes free from admixture. 
 
 The anchorage is uneasy, and, I shoukl think, 
 unsafe, and should be avoided near the full moon. 
 Sudden rollers come in, which are apt to snaj) chain 
 cables, unless with a long range. 
 
 Poultry, bullocks, &c., are to be obtained, but 
 compared with those of San Salvador or Realejo, 
 the prices are exorbitant. Bullocks can only be 
 embarked in one of their bongos. 
 
 
 ri 
 
 if I 
 
 I 
 
 .'I 
 
 • n 
 
 \ m 
 
 i *- 
 
40 
 
 TIIA(!K OF TIIK BLOSSOM. 
 
 [1H37. 
 
 ill 
 
 a 
 
 I !^ 
 
 
 Kill 
 
 Oil tho 22n(l w(? (jnittcMl our ancliorafrc, iiitciKiiii^ 
 to msiko tlio shortest |»asHsi^(; to Sun Jilsis. Jiy tluj 
 sulvico of sovonil old trjuk^rs, I stood to swi in onh^r 
 to reach the trades, as the inshore |»assa«;e is not 
 only tedious, l)ut subject to strong gales in ojiening 
 the Gulf of Tehuantei)ec. 
 
 We experienced a very heavy swell from the 
 north, succeeded l>y strong l)r(!ezes, and parted coin- 
 ptany from tJK! Starling during the night — the shij» 
 very wt^t and uneasy. 
 
 Crossed the track of the IJIosscmi; compared ob- 
 servations for magnetic declination : observer in 
 botli cases, I']. T5. 
 
 ° 54. Blossom, 1827- ] 
 
 o ^ oil luo-r r Mean of three days. 
 '^ 0. Sulj)hur, 18:37. J ^ 
 
 That given in IJauza's chart 1()|, is prol)al)ly an 
 error of tit e (engraver. 
 
 Fish were numenms — among them many Mat fish 
 simil.ir to the old wife ; but until cook(Ml, I was not 
 aware they had lu^en taken, otherwise s|)(!cinM'ns 
 would have been ])reserved, as t\\v caudal, dorsal, and 
 anal tins were uncommon. 
 
 Having crossed the limits usually assigned for the 
 trade, and outside of the JJlossom's truck, I gave uji 
 all further idea of making more westing, and in 
 12" 30' N. hm^. 102" 40' W. stretched in for the 
 land, our water being short, and trusting to Acapulco 
 being on our lee in the ev(Mit of distress. 
 
 On the I2tli May we made the land about three 
 

 1H37.] 
 
 MANZANIF.LA. 
 
 41 
 
 
 liiuidrcd niik's eastward of ('ape CorriciitcjH. Coii- 
 tlnuod to |)ly closo in shore, taking' advantage ui' 
 land and sea breezes — tlu; latter never iioMin^- 
 lon^^er than six hours — viz. coming in about t(ni and 
 ceasing at four. Current stron^^ easterly. 'J'iie 
 land ])reczeH, 'wZ/cn close iii xlunr, Ik'IjumI us from 
 eleven p.m. until eight a.m., l)ut were never sufli- 
 ciently strong to iMi|)el us beyond three knots, 
 — seldom two. 
 
 On the morning of tlu^ 14th, saw the Starling 
 about ten miles to the E. S. 1'^. ; kept siglit of her 
 from the mast head until the evening of the 10th, 
 when she again j)arte(l. 
 
 On the evening of the 17th, when tacking very 
 elosc in, ap])arently at thi^ mouth of a large river 
 or estuary, observed a vast crowd of men, wouK^n, 
 and children, waving to us. This, we afterwanis 
 found, was some superstitious ablution vviiich liad 
 collected thousands from the interior. I have wit- 
 nessed a very similar exhibition at Lytham in Lan- 
 cashire, in the month of August, at the highest s]>r)iig 
 tide. 
 
 On ttic evening of tlu^ 2(lth we anchored off 
 Man/anilla, and dispatched a Ixfat to scH^k for water. 
 On her return, we leanuMl that the Leonora bar(j!ie, 
 having some English amongst her crew, was at 
 anchor inside, an<l that watc^r nn'ght be obtained 
 close to the beach. On the followinuf morniii"-, we 
 beat in, and Jincliored in a sinig berth in twelve 
 fathoms. We determined (lie position; obtained 
 
 i^ 
 
 i 1 
 
 I 
 
 il 
 
 Ml! 
 
 r if i 
 
t! 
 
 42 
 
 I'OUT OF MANZANILLA. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 ten tons of water and one bullock ; and at midnight 
 were again en route. 
 
 The bay is small, but safe, anchorage good, water 
 brackish. There are no houses, — men and families 
 living exposed under the trees, and had not the 
 Leonora been there, it is probable that we should not 
 have met a soul. 
 
 This port is the main sea communication with 
 the city of Colima, thirty leagues, or eighteen hours 
 travel from hence, and containing a population of 
 thirty-eight thousand. 
 
 The following was kindly furnished by a friend, 
 who at the moment was on business at Colima. 
 
 " This port has a good anchorage, and is well 
 protected against the southerly winds prevalent 
 during the rainy reason, but, on account of a very 
 considerable lake of stagnant water in its immediate 
 neighbourhood, is very unhealthy during the summer. 
 Infested by myriads of mosquitoes and sand flies, 
 even in the dry season, it is nearly impossible to 
 reside there. 
 
 " This port has been open to foreign commerce 
 for several years, but has not been able to make 
 much progress. The port itself has not a single 
 liouse, and the first adjacent town is Colima, for- 
 merly the capital of the territory bearing the same 
 name, now embodied with the department of 
 Michoacan. 
 
 " Colima, it is true, is a large town, of considerable 
 
*E il 
 
 1837.] 
 
 ('OLIMA. 
 
 43 
 
 consumption, containing about thirty thousand in- 
 habitants ; but the distance from the })ort (thirty 
 leagues) and the difficulty of communication, the 
 roads being passable in the dry season only, na- 
 turally augment the expenses on any mercantile 
 transaction, to such a degree that it scarcely pays — as 
 any cargo which could be introduced, would be 
 merely to supply the district of Colima. Such 
 drawbacks, added to the detention, deter vessels 
 from touching at Manzanilla. 
 
 " Another cause which must divert the maritime 
 trade from Colima and Manzanilla, is the preferable 
 market at the capital of Guadalaxara, for its i)roduce 
 of sugar, maize, coffee, cocoa, indigo, &c. ; and as 
 these articles are not eligible for exportation, on 
 account of the high cost prices, the foreign merchant 
 could only deal in cash payments, whilst Guadalaxara, 
 which is generally overstocked with goods, via Tam- 
 pico on the east, and San Bias on the west, can 
 supply Colima with the necessary merchandize by 
 barter. 
 
 " The articles saleable at Colima are linens, cotton 
 goods, woollens, and a little hardware ; but, as already 
 stated, in small ((uantities, calculated perhaps for the 
 the consumption of about ten to fifteen thousand 
 souls." 
 
 
 iil: 
 
 '■}\ 
 
 ,*: ! 
 
 fev 
 
 M 
 
 •^M 
 
 The captain of the port had previously received 
 full instructions to afford us every facility that the 
 country could offer, and to repair to the beach on our 
 
 (I 
 
 !fl 
 
44 
 
 TEPIC. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 arrival. Wo found him lun'o, but doubtless brou<^ht 
 down by the supercarp^oes of the Leonora. He 
 urged me strongly to wait until the following day, 
 when the colonel commanding at Colima would call 
 upon me. We quitted the port at dawn. 
 
 After a very tedious beat, we succeeded in reaching 
 San Bias on the 27th, but did not gain our berth 
 at the usual anchorage until the following morning, 
 when we found the Starling had been here two days. 
 
 No prospect of provisions, and no dispatches. 
 
 On the receipt of a letter from my old friend Mr. 
 Barron, our Vice-consul at Tepic, who held out hopes 
 of finding provisions at Mazatlan, which had belonged 
 to a whaler wrecked at Cape St. Lucas, I immediately 
 despatched the Starling to purchase them, with 
 directions to rejoin me off Isabel Island. 
 
 Having received a very pressing invitation to 
 come to Tepic, where Mr. Barron was suffering in 
 apprehension of a severe family affliction, and it 
 being essentially necessary that we should arrange 
 about letters, provisions, &c., I set off immediately, 
 accompanied by my assistant-surgeon Mr. Hinds, and 
 Messrs. Simpkinson and Nicholson, mids. 
 
 As we entered the town, Mr. Barron's favourite 
 daughter, about eighteen, expired, and it was not for 
 some days that I could communicate with him on 
 service matters. I had already received an invitation 
 from another friend Mr. Forbes, to make his house 
 my resting place during my visit, (I was also his 
 guest in 1828,) and foreseeing the gloominess of the 
 
 i!li 
 
[ ■>! 
 
 .t 
 
 1837.] 
 
 SAN BLAS. 
 
 45 
 
 house of affliction, ho had most kindly made arrange- 
 ments for the accommodation of all our party. 
 
 The funeral, which took place the followiuf^ d.ay, 
 was very splendid, and attended by all the rank and 
 respectaliility of Tepic; indeed the loss a})peared a 
 pulilic calamity ; so entirely was the deceased the 
 idol of this small community, every family seemed to 
 participate in it; nor did they regain their spirits 
 during our stay. 
 
 Having made the necessary observations for proving 
 the longitude of Topic, and com])leted my affairs 
 with the Consul, we started for San lilas at half-past 
 three the following morning, and reached the beach 
 at four in the afternoon. Passing through the town of 
 San Bias, it being my first visit since 1 828, I was 
 astonished at its utter desolation. It seemed like 
 another Pompeii, or the tomb of a city, compared to 
 what I had witnessed in 1828. 
 
 In the square, which at that period had every 
 door open, not three human beings were to be seen ; 
 and on the market evening, (Saturday,) when I cer- 
 tainly expected to have found some little remnant 
 of former gay scenes, not one hundredth of the num- 
 bers were assembled. 
 
 It is truly melancholy to witness such changes. I 
 fear its fate is sealed, and nothing but a pile of ruins 
 will mark this once gay spot, particularly as the main 
 road now passes beneath the hill, and the houses at 
 the beach have increased. 
 
 That same evening I took my departure, the ship 
 
 li 
 
 i 
 
 r.il. 
 
 t ). 
 
 I 
 
 !S 
 
 : 't 
 
 Ml! 
 
 I " 
 
 f!.^:. 
 
ll'I 
 
 I'i 
 
 46 
 
 TflK STARLING. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 having weighed in tiie jif'ternoen, and awaited me 
 outside the Piedra de Tierra. 
 
 On the 10th June we passed the Isabel, when 
 the Starling rejoined, having fortunately obtained 
 part of the supplies for which she had been de- 
 spatched. 
 
 i;. 
 
 i 
 
CIIAPTEJi III. 
 
 Search for islands in the neighbonrhood of Socorro - Clouds and 
 Freshwater Island — Pass over position of Best's Island— Make 
 Clarion's — Search for islands reported by Whalers between l.'iO" 
 and 136° W. — Cross Blossom's track— Method of inserting 
 track— Make Island of Maui — Singular cascades — Arrive at 
 Oahu — Enter the port to refit— Question of forcible entry of 
 "Clementine" — Appeal to the Government — Unsuccessful — 
 Re-capture Clementine, and send her for the king — Missionary 
 threat— Land the missionaries — Arrival of the French frigate 
 Venus — Letter from the king — Arrival of the king's yacht — 
 Royal reception — King consents to the missionaries remaining 
 — Suspicions of foul play — Take leave of Venus, and quit Oahu 
 — Arrival in the Bay of Atooi — Quit Ilaualai — Present condi- 
 tion of Oahu — Views of the king — College at Maui — Starling 
 despatched to Port Mulgrave— Touch at Rose Island — Arrive 
 at Port Etches —Aurora observed —Visit the Russian settle- 
 ment of Port Etches — Discover traces of Captain Portlock on 
 Garden Island — Quit Port Etches — Extraordinary appear- 
 ance of land near Cape Suckling — Anchor in Icy Bay under 
 Mount Elias — Point Riou not to be found — Icebergs — Arrival 
 at Port Mulgrave — Rejoin Starting — Lip ornament— Quit 
 Port Mulgrave. 
 
 •m 
 
 Mi 
 
 ■ -if 
 
 •a 
 
 111 
 
4K 
 
 BESTS ISLAND. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 If i 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Our course was now directed for the Sandwich 
 Islands, where we were ahnost certain of com})leting 
 our supplies, liafflino- winds, with a heavy S.W. 
 swell, prevented our clearing Cape San Lucas until 
 the 14th, when we began to make pretty fair runs. 
 
 Sunday, June 19th, havin >; reached the range of 
 Socorro and Clarion Groups, several of which are 
 doubtful, I despatched the Starling to seek for Fresh 
 water and Clouds Islands, and rejoin us off Clarion. 
 
 My attention was directed to Clarion, Nublada, 
 and Best Islands. The weather unfortunately was 
 very unpropitious, preventing our obtaining astrono- 
 mical observations. 
 
 Birds, principally gannet, together with broad 
 patches of weed at times, plentiful. 
 
 On the 20th we found we had been drifted much to 
 the southward of our reckoning ; hauled up for Best's 
 Island, and passed over its assumed position, at which 
 time we could easily have discovered a breaker five, 
 and land ten miles off. About six we made the east 
 end of Clarion Island, distant about fifteen miles ; 
 
■i 
 
 1H37.] 
 
 SKARCII FOR ISLANDS. 
 
 49 
 
 and l)y cM<:^ht its bearinff, (luc nortli, proved that its 
 position in longitude is not far from correct. 
 
 The Starling was now directed to pursue a course 
 so as to enter on the 13(r meridian in latitude 17° 
 N. I bore up to preserve a parallel course to her, 
 and enter at 1G° 30' N., at which point another cluster 
 of doubtful islands was reported to exist, as well as 
 a continuous batch given us by the whalers in 182G 
 and 1827, as far as 135°, and w^Mch we then sought 
 in the Blossom, without success. As the Starling 
 would preserve a W.b.S. and the Sulphur a W.b.N. 
 course through that region, avoiding the Blossom's 
 track, they ought to have been foimd if they existed. 
 
 22nd. Wind light. Medusa* more plentiful, and a 
 few sticks floating, excited our hopes of finding land ; 
 but the current having lieen determined to set S. 
 86° W , this would bring them from Clarion island. 
 
 24th. Breeze varied much in strength, water 
 smooth, Tropic birds, (Phaeton zEtherius,) and frigate 
 Pelican (Pelecanus Aquilus) also observed. As these 
 latter birds do not go far from land, I am disposed 
 to believe some one of these reports to be well founded, 
 but the position erroneously determined. Weather 
 unfavourable for astronomical observations, even 
 should we discover land. 
 
 25th. Weather variable in puffs, varying our rate 
 from five to nine knots. Shortly after noon the appear- 
 ance on the lee quarter caused me to suspect land 
 in that direction, but the indication was not sufficiently 
 distinct to warrant any deviation from our course. 
 
 VOL. I. E 
 
 I 
 
 . '"il' 
 
 •I 
 
 t < 
 
 *i; 
 
 
 \'h 
 
50 
 
 THE HLOSHOMS TRACK. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 Should chaiico load me in tliis direction again, I sliall 
 certainly cross the meridian of today fifteen miles 
 further south. Tropic birds, frigate pelican, gannet, 
 and fl}'ing-fish, were noticed, and during the day we 
 had partial showers. 
 
 2Gth. Same observations as to M'ind varying in 
 puffs about nino a. m. and p. m. : fewer birds, but no 
 symptoms of land. On the 27th entered the limits 
 assigned to Whaler's discoveries. 28tli. Crossed 
 Blossom's track. 29th. Passed over many positions 
 assigned. No symptoms of land beyond the smooth- 
 ness of the water, wind coming in gusts at nine a. m, 
 and p. M., and frequent showers — the last one of the 
 strongest indications within the tropics. The spaces 
 thus examined must, however, relieve the general 
 navigation of this region. 
 
 I have been thus minute upon this subject, as I 
 cannot divest myself of the impression that land exists 
 in this neighbourhood. So many assertions can hardly 
 rest on imagination. 
 
 By the ordinary system of laying down the track 
 of vessels, no clue is obtained as to the actual limits 
 of examination. The actual limit of vision is entirely 
 lost sight of. To render this more distinct in the 
 Sulphur's track, great attention has been paid to the 
 radius of vision, so that the dotted circles distinctly 
 point out where no land can exist. The space has 
 also been sounded two hourly, with as much line as 
 our velocity would admit. 
 
 Sharks troublesome ; lost one patent log, and the 
 
1837.] 
 
 SFNGULAR CAS(;AnES. 
 
 61 
 
 e 
 
 rotator of a st'cond damaged. Mr. Masscy hIiouM 
 invent something to obviate this nuinance. 
 
 On July 7th, at claylip;ht, saw the outline of the 
 island Maui, (or Mowee of the charts,) and aimut 
 eight tlie N.W. extremity of Hawaii (Owhyhee.) 
 The heavy clouds capping the summits of both 
 islands prevented our obtaining a glimpse of these 
 remarkable peaks. 
 
 The numerous cascades resulting from the showers 
 afforded us a very interesting embellishment to the 
 lower scenery, which wo were passing within three 
 or four miles of the breaker line. To seamen tiiero 
 is a peculiar enjoyment even in the sight of fresh 
 water; but the numerous silver threads of it hero 
 sportively displayed must be seen to be duly enjoyed. 
 No description can convey the idea of their number 
 and variety, and a sketch including twenty leaps 
 within one or two hundred yards, would appear 
 almost a burlesque, yet such was the fact. About 
 four we passed the east end of Maui, .and came sud- 
 denly upon Morotoi, (or Molokoi,) Rana (Lana) visible 
 in the interval.* 
 
 The view of Molokoi from this position is very 
 singular. Four exactly parallel outlines of most 
 picturesque and lofty cliffs appeared almost a visual 
 deception, or the effect of quadruple refraction. But 
 as we advanced it proved in this instance a reality ; 
 height about four hundred feet, and varying but 
 slightly from the perpendicular. 
 
 * All the words formerly commencing with R now take L. 
 
 I 
 
 a 2 
 
iVi 
 
 IIONfLI'M'. 
 
 ■ 
 
 I 
 
 1' 
 
 I 
 
 [\H'.]7. 
 
 Tlio rnrrcnt Immii^t stron;; in our fiivonr, mid our 
 V(»I()rit)' alK)V(» oi;»;lit knots, tlio seme viiiicd suf- 
 ficiently to ]>r('S('rv(' our interest from fln<jf;j:in^. 
 Here ulso, as on Maui, several very pretty and loftier 
 cascades enil>(>llisli(>d the scenery, wliicli was rich in 
 colours, but lik(« tlie work of the scene j)ainter, not 
 bearino" to hv ey;jnine«l too closely. Attired in 
 nature's clotliin^' only, tlie scene will |)r(d)ably never 
 be sril)j( cted to cultivation. 
 
 About sunset ^\l• were oil* the N.W. extreme of 
 Molokoi, and steerin*? for Oahu. About midnight 
 we found oiu'selves nmch closer to the l)reakers of 
 the latter island tlinn our s])ecd warranted us in 
 expectin^jf, th(» current liavinof helped us consider- 
 al)ly. 
 
 Fortunately we were on the alert, and hauled oil' 
 in time to escape danoer. The wind being very 
 stronp:, with rain, we hove to until dayli<?ht and then 
 bore up for Honululn. 
 
 At six the ])ilot's boat came off, bringing Mr. Rey- 
 nolds ; the pilot being drunk, and the wind not admit- 
 ting our entry, we anchored outside. 1 landed, and was 
 received with much warmth by my old friends the 
 British and American Consuls. On the morning 
 folloM'ing the ship was anchored within the harbour, 
 and our refit commenced. 
 
 The Consul ajiplied for my interfrence, in the 
 question raised against this government, by the 
 foreil)le entry of the brigantlne Clementine, under 
 the British flag, and compelling her to receive on 
 
ih:{7.j 
 
 li.KMhMINKN AhTAIK. 
 
 53 
 
 board as prisoiu'is two Frciicli nlissiolml•i('^ l»n)iin|it 
 by hor on her lute voyii;;!' liitliiT t'roin Calit'oniiji, — 
 thus luakiii^^ ii prison-ship of a IJritisii vessel — after 
 liorcar^-o iiatl l)oiMi started, the vessel ri'tunie«l toiler 
 owiur.and these people were permitted to laud. The 
 goverunieut at first had endeavoured to carry their 
 object by l>ribery with tho nuister an«l owner; on 
 this failing, they had recourse to force; on which 
 tho Consul advised the colours to be struck, and tho 
 vessel abandoned. The Consul, I think rather in- 
 discreetly, caused the flag to be burned. 
 
 I had before been aj>i)rised that the huly chief, 
 ivinau, who governs the island, was entirely under tho 
 control of u missionary, not oidy obnoxious to tho 
 civilised comuumity, but also in bad odour with the 
 natives and chiefs themselves, and that I should 
 not be aljlo to obtain satisfaction. It was further 
 reported, that by his advice (or connnand) the cruel 
 and barbarous act of sending these two i)ersons to 
 be landed on a desolate part of California in 1830, 
 was carried into ettect merely from the fancy that 
 his followers would be seduced by them from his 
 style of religion, — if I am to profane the name by 
 terming it such. 
 
 My duty, however, was plain. If I could succeed 
 in opening their eyes to the injustice and inhumanity 
 of their act, as well as the grievous insult they had, 
 through their ignorance, oflered to our Hag, tant 
 mieUit: Failing in that, stronger measures would 
 follow. 
 
 1 
 
t 
 
 V 
 
 
 11 
 
 r)4 
 
 MISSIONARY TIIItKAT. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 Having ^iveii duo notice to Kinau and li(;r chiefs 
 that I wishivl to speak on this sul)Ject, they asseni- 
 bh'd at iier iiouse, Kuanoa, her huslmnd, rcceiviii|!^ us 
 with Hiiiitary hotiours, in his ^eneraFs uniform. 
 The chi(!fs were ])resent, as well as most of tlie 
 missionary establisiiment. 
 
 1^'indin^ remonstrance useless, and that their 
 |»rincii)al missionary leader, Mr. Bingham, evidently 
 s|)oke in iiis own name as well as tiieirs, and th(Te- 
 fon^ that they werct not free agents, f ventured to 
 acijuaint them that stron/i^er arguments must be 
 resorted to, and I instantly ordered the bri^ to be 
 recaptured, and the British colours re-hoisted. 
 
 Mr. liin^^ham tiien ventured to show himself in 
 his true colours, and, intunatin^ "that blood would 
 (low from this act," I most distinctly assured him, 
 " that having now ascertained his character, I should 
 visit that threat on his he.ad, ami that his life should 
 answer for the first droj) of British blood wliich his 
 afjency should cause to flow." It is true that I did 
 accompany that threat with my clenched fist, but 
 totally false that any action of mine towards Kinau 
 could be so construed. Indeed, I felt too much 
 pity for h(M- situation, and so far from the slightest 
 aninM)sity at that instant cxistinpf, she shook hands 
 with mt\ and Kuanoa, the husband, warmly pressed 
 my hand at partina^. 
 
 I immediately decided (m landing the missionaries, 
 and sending an oHicer in tlie Clementine to Maui, 
 requestinpf the immediate presence of the king, who 
 was there on a visit. 
 
1837.] 
 
 LA VENUS. 
 
 55 
 
 At tills critical inoinent the French frigate La 
 Vemi.s, of sixty ^uiis, made her appearance. Captain 
 <lu I'etit 'JMiouars sent to r(M|uest I wonhl allow him 
 to act in conjunction, and on his I'lndin^, a fresh 
 interview was re<|uesti!d and obtained. However, 
 finding them stnhhoridy d(!termined on maintaining 
 their acts, we camc! to the determination of awaiting 
 the arrival of the king. 
 
 JJefore sunset the missionaries were reinstated in 
 their domiciles, a('Comj)ani(Ml l)y the white popula- 
 tion, and crowds of natives, who a|)peare«l to rejoict; 
 in the act. The recapturt^d Clementine, in chargtj 
 of Mr. Sj)eck, mate, and under her proper banner, 
 triumphantly quitted ITonululu to aj)prise the king 
 of our first acts.* 
 
 The Starling hove in sight about the same time, 
 and HO far from showing any hostile feeling, Kuanoa 
 himself, with his large war canoes, assisted in warping 
 her in. 
 
 The Venus I had been taught to exj)ect in these 
 seas, her voyage being partly scientific ; our meeting, 
 therefore, was very cordial. At a dejeun^ given 
 <m board the Vemis to the Consuls and myself, the 
 flags of England and America combined were hoisted 
 at the fore, and a salute of eighteen guns fired. I 
 regretted much our inability to return the salute, 
 our orders forbidding it except in cases of necessity. 
 
 On the 20th the king arrived, contrary to the 
 
 * Tliesc and the foregoing /rtcAv are noticed as a sliort denial 
 of the false statennents which have apjjcared on this subject. 
 
 -I 
 
 I ' I 
 
 (J 
 
 '•|1 
 
 if 
 
 J 
 
56 
 
 ROYAL LETTER. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 ■u 
 
 J, 
 
 ri 
 
 expectation of many, as we had been given to un- 
 derstand that every missionary entreaty and threat 
 Lad been exerted to prevent him. However, as his 
 reply to my letter was friendly, and very decided, I 
 will do him the justice to say that I never for an 
 instant doubted the pledge he had given me. 
 
 " Lahaina, (Maui,) July 13th, 1837. 
 
 " Captain Belcher, of II. B. M. S. Sulphur, 
 " Honululu, Oahu. 
 
 " Love to you. Captain Belcher, of the British 
 sloop-of-war, the stranger beloved. I have received 
 your letter, and I give my consent to your request 
 of me to return to Oahu : I will indeed return, that 
 we may together adjust that affair ; because it wns 
 I, indeed, that returned those two Frenchmen on 
 board the vessel : I did it by the hand of Kinau, my 
 assistant-chief, the one who banished them. As was 
 formerly done to those two men, by the hand of 
 Kahamanu, who was formerly my assistant-chief, 
 so it has been done to them at this time. This was 
 my doing; but the taking capture the brig Cle- 
 mentine, and the burning of the flag, and acting in 
 opposition to Britain, I have not by any means done 
 that, nor have mv assistant-chiefs. 
 
 " A vessel has gone after Kuakini, governor of 
 Hawaii ; when he comes, then I will sail. 
 
 '' With love to you, 
 
 " I am vours truly, 
 (Signed) Tamehameha III. 
 
1837.] 
 
 ROYAL RECEPTION. 
 
 57 
 
 He came in his yacht, the Don Quixote, a barque 
 purchased from the Anierica^is, and mounting a few 
 guns for saluting. I waited on liim on board her, 
 and arranged a meeting for the day following. 
 
 The captain of the Venus, accompanied by his 
 officers, and the American and English Consuls, with 
 myself and such officers as could be spared, repaired 
 at noon to the kind's house, where we were received 
 by the officers attendant on the king, in their state 
 uniforms, similar to those worn at the time of Lord 
 Byron's visit in 1825. The king wore a round blue 
 jacket with lace straps on the shoulders, and an 
 embroidered crown on the sides of the collar, with 
 fawn-coloured drill trowsers. 
 
 The chiefs were seated on chairs, in line with 
 the king ; the lady chiefs on a bank of raised 
 mats behind. Our party occupied a line of chairs 
 fronting them. 
 
 The king has not grown much since 1827, but is 
 confirmed in his formation, stout built, and about 
 five feet six. His reception was very cordial, but I 
 coukl plainly discern that he had been previously 
 severely schooled for this meeting. 
 
 Before proceeding to business, both Captain de 
 Petit Thenars and myself protested against the in- 
 terpretation or interference of Mr. Bingham ; indeed 
 we requested his absence. This latter point was not 
 conceded, and he took u]) a position where he could 
 conmiand the eye of the king ; but the sharj) glances 
 of some of the officers of both ships were too 
 
 ■j 1 
 
 11 
 
 .0 ^ 
 
 
 1 
 
!l 
 
 I 
 
 'h 
 
 u 
 
 H 
 
 'I. ! 
 
 I! 
 
 /I 'I 
 
 68 
 
 DISCUSSION. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 powerful for him; and I believe something very 
 much allied to menace from one of the lieutenants 
 of the Venus damped his ardour, as he spent the 
 remainder of the time with his head between his 
 hands, nearly resting it on his knees 
 
 The questions at issue were — 1st, The forcible 
 entry of the Clementine, and putting on board 
 Messrs. Bachelot and Short. 
 
 2nd, The right of British subjects to reside at 
 these islands, so long as they conformed to the laws, 
 as established by treaty of Lord Edward Russell. 
 
 This latter they endeavoured to reject — indeed 
 refused to acknowledge. The discussion on the 
 merits of the case of Messrs. Short and Bachelot 
 continued until four, when all parties being ex- 
 hausted, the king proposed an adjournment until the 
 following morning. 
 
 The only object carried was the consent that 
 Messrs. Short and Bachelot should remain unmo- 
 lested until they could be removed, on the gua- 
 rantees respectively of Captain Thenars and myself. 
 The meeting was then adjourned. 
 
 The discussion was resumed on the morrow at 
 ten, and before two we had concluded by gaining 
 their consent to the unmolested residence of Messrs. 
 Bachelot and Short, until a favourable opportunity 
 offered for their reaching some civilised portion of 
 the globe, and that no further molestation should 
 be offered the Clementine. 
 
 I then presented the claims of the owner for 
 demurrage and other expenses. 
 
1837.] 
 
 INTERVIEW WITH THE KING. 
 
 59 
 
 Before signing the documents, the king requested 
 a private interview in the evening, when I remained 
 with him from seven until ten, discussing quietly the 
 line of conduct he should pursue, and what the civi- 
 lised world expected of him — reading frequent ex- 
 tracts from Vattel, which I sent for to confirm him. 
 As I gave him to understand that I would not 
 quit the port until I had a definitive answer for my 
 government, relative to the disputed clause in Lord 
 Edward Russell's treaty, he immediately consented 
 to adopt my reading, and signed a copy that evening, 
 promising another in Hawaian on the morrow. 
 
 He protested strongly against the charge of having 
 forcibly taken the Clementine. 
 
 He expressed himself " very much indebted for 
 this visit of kindness," and observed, " If I had one 
 who would advise me as you do, occasionally, I should 
 not get into so many scrapes." We parted on the 
 best of terms. 
 
 I was escorted home by the officer of the guard 
 and two soldiers, the Governor Kuanoa, and two 
 lanthorns. This escort possibly prevented mischief, 
 as, near the fort, we encountered a native with a 
 nmsket, in a very suspicious attitude. The officer 
 of the guard struck him full in the face, and he 
 darted off in the direction of the fort. It has been 
 surmised that foul play was intended. The fact of 
 sending the guard, &c., was somewhat suspicious, 
 although it did not occur to me until the following- 
 day, when I was told it was their intention to destroy 
 me. 
 
hi. 
 
 I 
 
 
 ff 
 
 n 
 
 J 
 
 9 ■-' 
 
 '-'I 
 
 I 
 
 
 ()0 
 
 DKPARTURi!: FROiM lIONL'LL'Lr. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 On the tollowiiig day 1 sent a lottor to his majesty, 
 ac(|uaintiiig- him that the (|uesti()ii touchiiio' the 
 insult to the Ha^' would remain for tlie eommotlore 
 to dispose of, as well as the damages done to the 
 owner of the Clementine. At the same time I sent 
 a formal instrument for his signature, agreeing to the 
 full reading of the treaty entered into Mitli Lord 
 Edward iiussell, and further engaging to grant a 
 fair trial, &c., before the usual prerogative of majesty 
 was exerted against any British subject. This was 
 completed in due form, and returned with an 
 Hawaian copy. 
 
 The Starling had been despatched the previous 
 day to Atooi, (Taui,) and by four o'clock, our affiiirs 
 being settled satisfactorily, we embarked the Consul 
 and family, and quitted the Port of Honolulu. 
 As the Venus had saluted our flag, I thought it as 
 well to give them a cordial ])arting cheer, and for 
 this end gave her a pretty close shave. The cheer 
 was heartily responded to by our French friends, 
 the national colours of the French at our main, and 
 the union at that of the Venus. Before sunset we 
 noticed her get under weigh, and dejjart for Kamt- 
 schatka, Nootka, and Monterey. 
 
 At two the day following we were anchored in 
 the snug bay of Ilanalae, on the N.W. side of the 
 island of Atooi. Here we found the Starling had 
 arrived a few hours before us. These were the two 
 first British vessels of Mar which had entered the 
 |)ort. 
 
':^r'r 
 
 
 
 I h 
 
 ! 
 
 •1 I' 
 
 P 
 
1837.] 
 
 llAXAFiAK ATOOI. 
 
 01 
 
 Our ()l)jort in roiniiin; liitlicr was to embark 
 bulloeks, whirli, wo woro assurod, were l)etter and 
 cheaper than at Oalni ; and we were fully repaid 
 for the trouble; we obtained noble animals, and 
 mesit as fine as in England. 
 
 During our detention, the survey of the bay was 
 completed. At four, on the 27th, we took our de- 
 parture for the north, taking leave of civilized society 
 for some months. Hanalao, besides beef and ve- 
 getables of the finest quality, furnishes fruits, jioultry, 
 turkeys, &c., cheap and in abundance. Water can be 
 filled in the boats, by sending tliem into the river. 
 
 I shall now return to Oahu, and compare it with 
 what we left it in 1 827, just ten years before. On 
 the first glance I thought it had retrograded. 
 
 The appearance of the natives was miserable and 
 dirty; their features apparently coarser, and that 
 brightness of eye and independence of carriage which 
 freedom alone can exhibit, were decidedly wanting. 
 
 The habit of frequent bathing, which constituted 
 half their original existence, is entirely exploded, and 
 not one good trait or feature l)y which former 
 navigators have described them can be traced ! 
 
 The substitution of the mud brick, or adobe of 
 the continent, for their former neat wooden paling, 
 gives the town a most gloomy aspect, and adds a 
 dirty cast, independent of the actual nuisance arisino- 
 from the clouds of dust which dry weather and 
 strong sea breezes bring to your house, resulting 
 from the constant destruction of the adobes. 
 
 r 
 
 I. 
 
 
( 
 
 f 
 
 <. 
 
 % 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 C2 
 
 NATIVK POPULATION. 
 
 [1837- 
 
 Tho native population has decreased in a degree 
 exceeding ordinary calculation, wliilnt that of the 
 foreign residents has increased in the same propor- 
 tion. In 1827, with the exception of the Consul's 
 family and tho missionary ladies, not a foreign 
 female could be found. At a ball given during our 
 visit no less than twenty couple stood up. Some 
 ladies then were absent from illness, an<l those of 
 the missionary families could not be expected to 
 attend such sinful pastime. 
 
 No apparent change has taken place in the cul- 
 tivation of the land ; they are still in the same state 
 of idleness as to their own affairs. They cannot 
 cultivate their land, because their labour is demanded 
 for the church, the missionaries having obtained the 
 necessary edict which compels the natives to labour on 
 the reefs, to procure blocks of stone for the purpose 
 of building a new church. The first duty, of obtain- 
 ing 8ubsisL,jnce for their families, was deemed but 
 a secondary consideration. If they presumed to do 
 so on Sunday their punishment was double labour 
 the ensuing week. Even the servants of the foreign 
 residents were interfered with, and arbitrarily marched 
 off. 
 
 This state of things could not exist long ; great 
 discontent was manifested by all parties, and it pro- 
 bably would have proceeded to some decisive act, 
 had it not been " considered advisable to suspend 
 operations for one year." 
 
 At Tahiti the natives are compelled to frequent 
 
1837.] 
 
 PORT CIIAROKH. 
 
 63 
 
 the church. I lore the attendance may bo avoided, 
 but " you shall buiUl one of stone." What, it will 
 be asked, is this amount of labour ? To cut a block 
 of compact coral limestone from the reef, about three 
 feet lonj^, two wide, and one deep, at low water, 
 and transport it to the shore — say half a mile. 
 
 The houses of the foreign residents are conside- 
 rably improved ; sliops are more numerous and well 
 supplied, and several of them are kept by Chinese. 
 
 The chiefs and upper classes are better clothed, 
 and appear as if they were accustomed to dress 
 properly. Of course the grog shops, bowling ground, 
 billiard rooms, &c., have increased in proportion. 
 
 The port, however, is less frequented by whalers, 
 in consequence of their stubbornness in maintaining a 
 ridiculously high port charge. Atooi, where the 
 port dues are evaded, is rapidly seducing the old 
 hands from this port, which, indeed, they do not 
 enter but to refit. I endeavoured to point out this 
 mistake to the king, but his reply was, that the port 
 was in the hands of Kinau — or, in other words, 
 ruled by the missionaries. 
 
 If the king and chiefs continue their present 
 course, this island will never improve, but for the 
 benefit of the foreign residents. 
 
 The Bonin groupe, I am told, is rapidly improving 
 in settlers and importance. It is encouraged, I 
 believe, by our Consul here. If any legal authority 
 existed there, I have little doubt but half the trade 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 iil 
 
04 
 
 VlKWd <ll' TIIK KrXfl. 
 
 [inn:. 
 
 ii 
 
 I 
 
 i; 
 
 \' 
 
 of tlic wIialtTs would be tuktiii tVoin Iumicc, uikI 
 would aid iii ostablisliiii^ tho IJouius. 
 
 The kin^' and chiefH appear to desire to act in 
 oonforniity with tlie eHtaldislied customs of civilized 
 coiuuiunities, ))uture led astray by l)ad advice, which, 
 in the absen(re of those supposed to be einj)owered 
 to advise them, they consider themselves bound to 
 adhere to. 
 
 I found this ol)servation particularly on what 
 esca])ed from the kiuf^. He api)ears at all times 
 anxious for the; advice and suj)jM)rt of Great Britain, 
 and asked " if another lord w(mld come out to settle 
 thisallair?" or "who would come to advise him?" 
 He asked many questions ; listened eagerly to every 
 ^uoo'ostion calculated to avert any future misundcr- 
 standin<^ between our governments ; and, so con- 
 vinced was I of his sincerity, that, although my 
 success was more than doubted by all about me, I 
 sent a written document bv my first lieutenant, 
 stipulating for his consent in toto to my wishes re- 
 lative to the disputed article of the treaty, and an 
 engagement on his part not to exe^t the ""doubted 
 right of a sovereign power against a British subject, 
 without due notice to our Consul, and satisfactory 
 reasons to the government ; and this document he 
 duly signed without comment, at the very instant of 
 departure. I much regret that I had not an oppor- 
 tunity of paying him my last adieus, after his very 
 <leci(led courtesy towards me. 
 
ih:]7.] 
 
 SCIKKII, Al o.Mir. 
 
 d.') 
 
 AnionnrHt till' linprovoincutH, niul oiiooftlu' pfvontist 
 imi»ortaii('(> t<» tlir tuliirc wclfhrc of Oalm, or of tlicso 
 isliiiids ;>«'iu'nilly, 1 must not omit to iiiciiticMi witli 
 till' wjiniu'st iipprohatioii the school tor tlio cliil- 
 (Iit'ii «»f mixed paivnts, wlicrt* tlicy aro instructfil 
 not only in nil the l)ran('lios of liritisli cliarity cdn- 
 cation, Init also in tlio Iji^lisli lannna^^f. I >vas 
 astonishi'd at tlifir in-oHcicncy. Thin school is 8ii|)- 
 portcd hy voluntary contrilmtions of the wiiito re- 
 sidents, and tiiose fre«jnentin<>- tlie port, and is under 
 thi! especial su])ervision of the ladies resident — i>ar- 
 ticularly of the (.'onsul's family. 
 
 Some of the specimens of needlework exil)ite(l 
 to tempt our patrona^i» were beautiful. These were 
 the productions of children not exceeding eight 
 years of age. 
 
 The example of these children at some future 
 period will, it is to be hojjed, materially tend to 
 improve the society of Oahu. 
 
 In the present state of missionary thraldom they 
 cannot much longer continue. The introduction of a 
 clergyman, and the ordinary course of devotion, nmst 
 soon supersede the })rescnt system. Such a friend 
 to advise the king would probably cure all the heart- 
 burnings which at present distract the community. 
 His disposition is good, the peoi)le have ever been 
 mild and amiable, or they would never have submitted 
 to the yoke which galls them. The course they are 
 at present i)ursuing is equally opposed to their feelings 
 and their interests. The civilized world has from 
 
 VOL. I. F 
 
 I 
 
 m 
 
 iii 
 
60 
 
 MISCHIKK OF TIIK M ISSIONAKI KS. 
 
 [is:]7. 
 
 rime to time hoon interested in their nets, by the 
 prospect of a semibarbarous coniniimity rising into 
 the rank of civilized society, and has extended the 
 liand of friendship to assist in their elevation. (Jreat 
 Britain, France, and America, have coni])leted treaties, 
 and sent consuls to reside among them. But if 
 repeated acts of outrage, fit only to be attrilmted to 
 the dark ages from whicli they have but just emerged, 
 continue to sully their flag, in which the liritish 
 union is blended, then will they be hurled back 
 froui that footing, into the insignificance whidi their 
 bad advisers and their consmnmate presumption will 
 so richly merit. And should a vigorous exertion of 
 poAver once be called for, then is their sun for ever 
 set, and the flag of these islands, now so ]»rondly but 
 wantonly waving, luay be conflned to their own j^orts, 
 as has been the case with San Douiingo. 
 
 Possibly it is not known that the flag of these 
 islauds has our union in the u])])er canton, with blue, 
 red, and white stripes three times repeated. 
 
 At Lahaina (Maui) a college is founded, of which 
 Mr. Andrews is Principal. Froui specimens I have 
 examined of their progress in engraving, (charts, and 
 1 believe those of the Sandwich Islands arc in pro- 
 gress) their proficiency is very creditable ; and from 
 what I saw of Mr. Andrew s himself, who interpreted 
 for me at the interview with the king, I had reason 
 to admire him. 
 
 To return to Hanalae : at the ])resent season the 
 anchorage is safe, but when tlie N.W. gales })l()w, a 
 
 
ls:37.J 
 
 IIANAI.AK. 
 
 (i; 
 
 
 very heavy sea must tunil)le into tlie l)ay. I vm 
 informed that a Russian store-ship rode otTt the 
 season in spite of cverythin;»'. The aneiiorai»-e is 
 pretty well covered by a spit, over whieh there 
 is about nine feet ; l)ut there is not suftioient space 
 in bad weather for more than tliree vessels, although 
 in the present fine season the l)ay is spacious. 
 
 The landing is within the mouth of a small river, 
 which carries, for a considerable distance up, from 
 one to three quarters of a fatliom, into fresh water, .and 
 is further navigable for boats or canoes (draMing three 
 feet) several miles. 
 
 The scenery is beautiful, and my surj)rise is that 
 such a favourable situation should so h»ng have been 
 overlooked. The Consul ])Ossesses a tract of hind on 
 which his tenant (Kellett, an Englishman) feeds cattle, 
 makes butter, cheese, and farms to great advantage. 
 I am certain that our men derived more nourishment 
 from the cattle we end)arked tliere than from any 
 }a*evious diet, an<l contrary to tlie general feeling, 
 preferred it to salt, regretting its loss. I would 
 therefore strongly advise ships of Avar to sacrific(^ 
 much to secure these advantages. 
 
 Our attention was now directed to a very diiferent 
 scene. Hitherto we had enjoyed the balmy airs of 
 tli'^ tropics, seldom too warm, never oj)pi'essiv(\ 
 We were no longer to bask in sunshine, but to 
 meet the chilling blasts from Mount St. Elias, tlie 
 position of which our orders required us to fix, as 
 
 1- 2 
 
 M 
 
 Ml 
 
 , 
 
 ! 
 
(IS 
 
 ROSK ISLAND. 
 
 f 
 
 [IsnZ 
 
 well as to viM'ify <voncrally the principal longitudes of 
 Vancouver. 
 
 Our progress northward was tedious and uninte- 
 resting. On the 17th August, the Starling was de- 
 sj)atched to Port Mulgrave, to make the necessary 
 observations for fixing the i)osition of Mount St. 
 Elias, which T suspected might not be seen clearly 
 every day, and therefore might cause us detention. 
 Our course was <lirected northerly, wherever she 
 could fetch, Port Chalmers, Etches, or Wingham 
 Island. 
 
 On the 21st, with light airs at noon, we expected 
 to see Montague Island ; but the current having 
 driven us much to leeward of our reckoning, we 
 determined on seeking Rose Island, or the nearest 
 spot on which I could secure our meridian distance. 
 About live. Rose or Middleton Island was plainly 
 discerned, which put an end to our constant excite- 
 ment by the frequent reports of land which proved 
 to be only clouds. 
 
 At nearly dusk, breakers were observed between 
 the point we were steering for and the ship ; a 
 breaker curled close to our lee-beam ; the lead giv- 
 ing fifteen fathoms, previous cast forty-four ; hauled 
 off into forty-five. 
 
 It being calm we drifted duriu" the niffht to the 
 south-east, and at six the following morning an- 
 chored in twenty-one fathoms. Accompanied by 
 Mr. Hinds, assistant-surgeon, I landed to determine 
 
 > 
 
18:37.] 
 
 ROSE ISLAND. 
 
 Oi) 
 
 tlio position, but drizzling ruin iVustruted tiiis object, 
 and the setting in, forbidding all furtlier prospect for 
 tlie day, compelled uk to <3ni))ark. 
 
 The island, v, liicli docs not exceed thirty feet in 
 height, is a very soft spongy soil, on a slaty micacious 
 schale, intersected by (piartz dykes. A few fuci, 
 land shells adhering to ferns, and three small alca, 
 comprised our collection. The ripples I had ob- 
 served were found to arise from ledges of rock, on 
 which as little as two fathoms was found. The 
 tide was ascertaincMl to set — flood, north-east, — ebb, 
 south-west. 
 
 Strong meanings, or rushes on the surface, inti- 
 mated that we should have sufficient wind; however^ 
 before weighing I determined on trying what the 
 bottom would afford, and succeeded in hooking 
 three fine halibut, two of which I secured; one 
 weighing a hundred and forty-six pounds, was given 
 to the crew, the other divided amongst the officers. 
 
 Shortly after five wo weighed with the breeze 
 strong from the northward, and a heavy swell from 
 the eastward ; the wind veering enabled us to shape '\ 
 course for i^ort Etches, ivhlch we now had a pros- 
 pect of reaching easily, but not before dark. 
 
 At nine we observed the aurora for the first time. 
 The coiruscations were all very brilliant, but instead 
 of broad masses of wavy lambent light, it exhibited 
 chiefly shar]) rays shooting to the zenith, from l^.N.E. 
 to N.W. The stars clearly visible, with diminution 
 of liuht. 
 
 ii 
 
 1 
 
 ! 
 
 Is 
 

 70 
 
 SNOW-tAIM'KD riNNAC'LKS. 
 
 [18:j; 
 
 At (hiNvii, till' siioAVv raiiii't's ofinoimtaiiis froin tlie 
 terinin.itioii of Moiitaguo Island as far as Cape 
 Sii('kliii,i»', or in the direction of Kaye's Island, Avere 
 entirely free from clouds or va|)ours, a si^ht not 
 common in these reoions, and generally a Avarning for 
 bad weatlier. As the sun rose, our attention was 
 anxiously directed to witness the effect of its rays 
 on the innnniera])le snow-cap])ed ])innacles, which 
 this s])lendid range ])resented, each, even the lowest, 
 an object of interest, compared with our late 
 scenery. We were, liowever, disap])ointed ; their 
 ol)li(|uity, added to the faces being- to the S.W., pre- 
 vented the eifect we anticijiated. It was, howevei", 
 accomj)lishe(i at sunset. 
 
 Light l)att1ing' airs, with oppressively hot sun, 
 kept teazing us until after noon, when we appeared 
 to move but tardily towards the i)assage between 
 Montague and llinchinbrook Islands, where I Mas 
 prepared to expect strong tides. About eight we 
 had doubled the Cape, and a gig Avas s^'ut to exa- 
 mine the coast ; but shoal Mater, contrary to X'^an- 
 couver's idea, rend^i'ed it nc(!ess;)ry to anchor in 
 seventeen fathoms. The tide ran at the rate of 
 three knots, but not sufliciently strong to cause me 
 any uneasiness. The boat returned Avithout informa- 
 tion ; Me therefore remained quiet for the night. 
 Several fine fish Mere caught. 
 
 At four Ave Aveighed, and folloAved the gig sent 
 ahead to point out the entrance to the ])ort. 
 Worked in against a fresh N.E. brec .e. soundings on 
 
18:}7.] 
 
 Ill^SSIAN RK8II)KNTN. 
 
 71 
 
 
 l»(>tli sides •i'iviiii'' twcnty-Hvc, thirty, und forty tU- 
 tlioms, close in sit our tjK'kin<^- ])ositioii, almost touch- 
 iiio- the rooky. 
 
 About niuo \vv juichorod at the mouth of tlii; 
 siuaii entrance to tlie iinier liarhonr, in seven fa- 
 thoms ; ])retty nearly in the position mentioned by 
 V^ancouver. 
 
 Till' weather innnediatelv becauje threatejiin<>-, 
 l)le\v very hard, l)rou^lit one anchor home, and com- 
 pelled us to let «»() the second. 
 
 We were visited by the llussian residents, who 
 betrayed some little alarm at our arrival, and at 
 one time I thon.<;ht would have retired. The stay 
 t>f tlie ])rincii)al was short, but he returned after wc; 
 anchored, enveloped in his wateri)roof cloak, formed 
 of the small intestines of the seal, and endea- 
 voured to ])ersuade us to enter the inner harbcmr. 
 This I certainly would have done, had 1 purposed 
 remainin;^' l<ni<»'. The day continued ])ouring with 
 rain, debarring* any kind of occuj)ation or amuse- 
 ment. 
 
 The <lay followin<^' the wind subsided, but con- 
 tinued from the same tpiarter, with fi-e(pient showers. 
 I called on the Russian resident, who evidently 
 had made some ])rej)aration to receive me, so fai- 
 as hot wrier and a clean table-cloth were concerned, 
 but the prevailing odour was that of seal-oil. lie 
 regretted that he had nothing to ])resent to me but 
 a tanned skin dress, embroidered by the natives of 
 the Aleutian islan«ls, jtrecisely similar to those 
 
 V 
 
I 
 
 ) I 
 
 I 
 
 72 
 
 FUR ESTABLISIIMKNTS. 
 
 [1837 
 
 which wo ol)taiiied at Avatcha, and one or two 
 baskets. As I was well aware of the exact mean- 
 ing of this attention, I did not hesitfite in receiving 
 it, particularly as I had brought with me presents of 
 tea, sugar, and other comforts. 
 
 He then took me through the fish and oil esta- 
 blishment, which was inches deep in hardened filth 
 and seal-oil; and thence to the room containing 
 peltry. I was much disappointed at the quality of 
 the furs. They comprised sea-otter, sable, rat, 
 squirrel, fox, wolf, bear, seal, and beaver, very large 
 and heavy. The only desirable skins were those of 
 the sea-otter and sable, and they were not first-rate. 
 As it is strictly forbidden to sell anything, and our 
 visit bound us in honour not to permit anything of 
 the sort, I felt little inclination to remain in this 
 valuable repository, 
 
 This establishment of the Imperial Russian Fur 
 Company consists of the oflScial resident, eight 
 Russians, and fifty Aleutian and other allies. The 
 houses are included in a substantial wooden quad- 
 rangle, furnished at its sea angles with two octa- 
 gonal turrets, capped in the old English style, and 
 pierced with loop-holes and ports ; the summits of 
 the lines are armed with spikes of wood. It is cal- 
 culated to sustain a tolerable siege, under deter- 
 mined hands. The sleeping apartments, or "'tween 
 decks," as we should term them, are desperately 
 filthy. The whole range is warmed by Dutch-ovens, 
 and the sides being eighteen inches in thickness, are 
 
1837.] 
 
 (iAliDKN ISLAND. 
 
 70 
 
 woll-calciilatc'd to witlistaiul the cold, as well as t«) 
 clofy musketry. 
 
 The native allies, who live in huts outside, are 
 filthier than any Esquimaux ; arising, doubtless, 
 from their life of inactivity, resulting- from doubtful 
 dejiendence. On my return to the ship, I found 
 that a boat-load of salmon had been sent, which af- 
 forded the crew a fresh meal, of a pound and a half 
 of salmon per man. 
 
 A survey of the port was effected, malgr^ the un- 
 favourable state of the weather, and our astronomi- 
 cal and magnetic observations were secured. I had 
 completed my observations at a small island which I 
 had selected for a station, but was at a loss for a mark, 
 and had directed a tree near me, which was <lei)rive(l 
 of bark, to be felled for this purpose. I had barely 
 time to arrest the sacrilegious order on perceiving- 
 letters on its sides, and easily traced 
 
 PORT ETCHES. SHIP KING GEORGE. 
 NATII. PORTLOCK, COMM". 
 
 JULY 22, 1787. 
 
 On my return on board, I found in Mavor's edition 
 of Portlock and Dixon's Voyage, Portlock notices 
 having trimmed and marked a tree on Garden island 
 in this manner. 
 
 At present the island is covered with pine trees : 
 we could not trace any remains of plants differing 
 from those on the nearest land. The surface of the 
 Garden must have been very small, nor did the grass 
 and mould in any })art exceed six inches in depth. 
 
 I 
 
 i I 
 
 ^ 
 
 i< 
 
1 
 
 I'OUT KI'CIIKS. 
 
 [l.s:}7 
 
 Oil (lie side of the Ikiv witliiii, wIicm'i' lio liad liis 
 ti'iits, ;i spocics ofwilil oniiu was iioticofl, and a largo 
 spot free from trocs. It Avas !;iatifyiii<i\ liowover, thus 
 to iiieot soiiK' token of our adventurous countrvnien, 
 even in such an iidios]>ital)le clime ; a sensation only 
 to be ajtpreciated by wanderers like ourselvoH. 
 
 We found strawlierries, Avliortlel)erries, blaeberries 
 (arbutus), ])i<>eonberries, and a small cranberry, in 
 toleral)le })rofusion, Avitlumt going in search of tliem. 
 
 On We(biesday, tlie oOth August, we jn-epared for 
 sea, and took on board spars and firewoo;'. I 
 paid my linal visit to tlie Resident, letiving him a 
 further supjdy of comforts, for whicli he evinced 
 
 mnch gratitude. 
 
 About two we weigluMJ and bi'at out, the fort 
 saluting as mc passed. 
 
 Vort Etches might furnish a most conij)lete har- 
 bour, if vessels fretpiented tliese regions, or a station 
 sliould I'ver be ri'tjuired in so liigh a latitude. The 
 currents, however, between it and Montague Island, 
 render it diflicult of apju'oach in light winds, and 
 tlie Russian informed me that many sunken rocks 
 lie off Cape Ilinchinbroke. lint as they designate a 
 rock over which there mav be ten or fifteen fathoms, 
 a sunkeu rod; i\\v\ probably allude U) diniger to 
 iironnd tackle. 
 
 It was on one of these ledges that we anchored 
 in seventeen fatlioiiis, and «»n trij){tiiig had twelve 
 before cU^ariiig the rocks. 
 
 The result of our observations at this jiort gives 
 
is;}7.] 
 
 KIlKOll (H' VAN( (tlN KU. 
 
 <•) 
 
 N'jmcDiivcr in error iicjirly to tlir ainoimt wliicli lie 
 ascrihi's to Cook. 
 
 Fiiidiiiii' ourselves hijcaljiied near the flat island 
 mentioned ])y V^incouver, and wisliin^- to verily its 
 ])osition, 1 started in my yiu' for this |»nr|)ose, hut 
 had not |)r(t('eeded I'ar when a li<>ht tiivonraltle aii" 
 brony'lit me hack : all sail was crowded for C'ajxi 
 Hammond, which was rounded at niidniiiht. 
 
 I had heen rumiinij' my eve over \'ancouver, and 
 noticed the diHicultv he described in u'ettiny round 
 this capo, by reason of an adverse current; other- 
 wise I had fully intended to anchor within Winuf- 
 ham Island, and endiavour to intersect Mount St. 
 lilias from tlieuce, as well as rectify the (M'ro;*s in 
 that nei^^hbourhood. lint time was now too pre- 
 cious, and the ensuing' morn jiroved that uiy <leter- 
 mination had beiMi indicious, as wo had ••■looniv 
 Moather, no sun, li;>ht wind, and could scarcely stem 
 tho current. 
 
 All our transit beai'in;;;s and other observations, 
 l)lainly indicated the charts to be erroneous al)out 
 this re<i,ion. A river a])j)ears to flow near Capo 
 Suckling, which has not l)oeu noticed. 
 
 Our attention was suddenly attracted by the very 
 peculiar (mtlini> of rid.ii'o in |)r(nile, which one of 
 our draughtsmen was sketching, a])parently toothed. 
 On examining it closely with a telescope, I found, 
 that although the surface presented to the naketl 
 eye a comparatively even outline, that it Avas actually 
 one mass of small four-sided truncated j)yramids. 
 
7(1 
 
 SlNdl'LAIt SI(;iIT. 
 
 [1h:]7. 
 
 ' 
 
 r('Homl)Iiiio- s'llt-wator niiid wliicli lias been (»x|»om('(I 
 Ni'vcral (lays to the rays of a trojtical sun, (as in 
 tr<»])ical salt iiiarshcs,) or ;m iiiinu'iisc colk'otioii of 
 liuts. 
 
 For some time we Mere lost in conjecture, j)i'o- 
 l)al)ly from the dark ash colour. IJut our attention 
 bein«,^ drawn to nearer olyects, and the 8un len<lin<^' 
 liis aid, we found the wh(deslo|)e, from ridge to base, 
 similarly composed ; and as the rays ])layed on those 
 near the beach, the brilliant illumination distinctly 
 showed them to be ice. We were divided between 
 a<lmlration and astonishnKnit. What cause would 
 j)roduce those si)ecial forms? If one could fancy 
 himself perched on an eminence, about five hun- 
 <lred feet above a city of snow-white pyramidal houses, 
 with smoke-coloured flat roofs covei'ing many scpiare 
 miles of surface, and rising ridge above ridge in stej>s, 
 he might form some faint idea of this beautiful freak 
 of nature. 
 
 Al'l'KARANCJi Ol. ICi; 
 
i.s:j7.] 
 
 ( AI'K SICKI.INO. 
 
 77 
 
 Kayc's IsIiiiKi, viewed fVoiii tin- castwanl, prcsentM 
 tlic ii|)|)OJinin('o of two islands. 'I'lic soutlicni is a 
 lii^h table-rock, tree from trees or ve'.'^etatioii, and of a 
 wiiitish I'ue; the other is moderately lii^jfh land for 
 this re;i;ion, with tliree bare peaks; its h)wer region 
 bein^ well-woo(U'd. 
 
 Win»>liam Ishiiid, wliich can be seen to nearly its 
 wliolo len<fth between Cape Suckli i>3f and Point Le 
 Mesnrier, (the north part of Kay( 8 Island,) is mo- 
 derately elevated, risin<jf in tliree Inimmoeks, which 
 are bare on their summits. The southern at a dis- 
 tance, owing* to the h)wness of the neck, a]>pears 
 separated. The whole is well clothed with trees. 
 
 In one <lirection from the southward. Cape Suck- 
 lino- exhibits on its Imwcr profile, the brow, nose, 
 and lii)s of a man. It is a low neck, stretchiiip^ out 
 from a mountainous isolated ridfj^e, Mhich terminates 
 about three miles from it easterly, M'liere the flats 
 of the ice pyramids just alluded to terminate. A])- 
 j)arcntly the river or opening near Cape Suckling 
 flows round its base. There is little doubt but that 
 we may attribute the current to this outlet, .irising 
 probably from the melting of the snow. We had 
 less strength of current after passing this position. 
 Immense piles of drift-wood were noticed on each 
 side of the opening, but none elscivhere. Floating 
 trees of considerable magnitude \^v3re numerous, and 
 one sufficiently interesting to cause its admeasurt'- 
 ment by sextant, which afforded two hundred feet 
 as its probable length. Current northerly. Water, 
 
 11 
 
 i 
 
il ,'' 
 
 ) 
 
 II '! 
 
 :l 
 
 H 
 
 i"! 
 
 7H 
 
 .M(H\'i' sr. ri.iAs, 
 
 [In:I7. 
 
 witliin fliiTc miles <»r tlic liiiid. w liit i'->li, sliowiiiM; a 
 flistiiict )Ii\isi(ni, (l(nil)t Irss snou-wntcr ;inil niiid. 
 
 We (Mmtimicd to he tcii/.cd v itli liLilit ViirijiMc 
 :iirs .'iihI stronu' ciirri'iits. jiiid cm Moiid;iy, the Ifli 
 S('|»t('inlK'r, liiKliii;;- the wind IJiiliiiii'. I dttcrmiiicd on 
 l<('('|iiii;;' ill snudl water, so as to lie aide to aiudior, 
 Moniit St. lilias hciii;;- tlicii uitluii lair distance. 
 AUout eiiilit we an<'li(H'ed in fifty (litlionis, mnd ; 
 tlie day iK'nutilnlly line. Iiorizon well defined, and onr 
 position as |ierl'e('t as conid lie wished foi* om* obser- 
 vations, all of wliicii were (»l)tained, and satisfactitrv. 
 Tlie cnrrc nl was i'onnd to set <»ne mile r.iid a 
 lialf per lionr west, varying; l-nt sli-ilitly in force, 
 x{\\(\ iinf lit ii/t 1)1 il'n'iclUui, At tins jjositioii, not a 
 sinule <l('ift ti-ee was noticed. We >\('re within tlie 
 wliite water about two miles, wlnclilam now satisfied 
 flows from the ice, jlut why it ]>reserves its nni- 
 tormity of strenijtli ;ind diriu'tion, is yet a prohlem to 
 bo solved. 
 
 Oil tJM^ niornin;^' follow iiio' it was (dondy, with I'ain, 
 and the hrec/o sjiiiiiiiinn' h|> conijielled ns to ti'ij). 
 Towards the evening' it (deared up. and we were 
 treated with a most splendid picture ofHt. Elias and 
 all the uei<i'id)ourin,u' ])eaks, in full beauty, not a 
 va|)our near them. lOach ramve is in itself an object 
 worthy of the pencil ]»ut Avitli the stupendous, ]>i'ou(l 
 St. lOlias towering- above all, they dwindled into mere 
 hillo(d<s, or into a most s))leudi(l base on which to 
 place his saintshij). 
 
 AIthou<>h A'ancftuvor describes St. T^lias as " in re- 
 
I 
 
 i. 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
18:57.1 
 
 ICY IJ.W. 
 
 7!) 
 
 o-ioi)'^ of eternal snow," yet liis edjves, to the veiysani- 
 mit, present a few black wrinkles., and the <\^pth of 
 snow does not, even in the drifts, appear to be very 
 dee]). 
 
 My anxiety to reach Point Riou and obtaii oh- 
 scrvations on it, induced me to hohl on by the liind. 
 Indeed there was no other chance of cvercon}in_<>- 
 the current. The coast presents so little to reco;>nise 
 in V^ancouvcr's chart, that I despair of (hnn<>; move 
 than fixing* the position of IMount St. Elias. which, if 
 Kellett has been successful in seeing froiii l^ort Mul- 
 grave, will be now secure. 
 
 ToM'ards noon the breeze favoured us sufficiently 
 to reach into Icy Bay, very a])tly so ujuned, as 
 V^aucouver's Point liiou must have dissolved, as mcII 
 as the small island also mentioned, and on which 1 
 had louo' set my heart as one of my ]>rinci}ial posi- 
 tions. At noon Ave tacked in ten fathoms, nuid, 
 havino- passed through a cpiaiitity of small ice, all of 
 a soft nature. The whole of this bay, and tlie valley 
 above it, was now found to be compo-^d of (a])i)a- 
 rently) snoAV ice, about thirty feet in height at the 
 water cliff, and probably based on a lov nuiddy 
 beach ; the water for some distance in contact not 
 even showing a ripple ; Mhich, it occurretl to mo, 
 ai'ose from l)eing charged witli fioating V(\t>-etable 
 matter, probal)ly fine bark, &c. 
 
 The small I/ergs or reft masses of ice, forming the 
 difty outlines of th(^ bay, Avere veined and varie- 
 gated by nnid streaks lik(; marble, and wliere they 
 
 
I fcir 
 
 
 I 
 
 t' 
 
 80 
 
 POINT UIOU. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 liad 1)0011 oxposo<l to the soa, wore oxcavatod into 
 arches, &c., similar to some of our chalk forma- 
 tions. The dase of the jjoint, named by Vancouver 
 Point Riou, probably remains; but l)ein<v free, for 
 some distance, of the g-roater bergs, it presented 
 only a low sand or muddy spit, with ragged dirty- 
 coloured ice grounded. No island could be traced, 
 and our interest was too deeply excited in seeking 
 for it, to overlook such a desirable object. 
 
 On our inshore tack we had five fathoms and three 
 quarters, and were therefore quite close enough to 
 maV certain of our remarks, r-hort of actual contact, 
 whicn the favourable breeze would not admit of 
 without some more important results. 
 
 We edged along, keeping within a mile and a half 
 of the shore, carrying from ten to fifteen fathoms, 
 until night, when we bore away to cross Beering's 
 Bay, and rejoin our consort in Port Mulgrave. 
 
 I perceive in Vancouver, (vol. iii. p. 204,) twenty- 
 three fathoms was his nearest approach, and within 
 one league. He also terms it " low, well-wooded, 
 with a small detached islet, a little to the westward." 
 Also, " Eastward fron; the steep cliffs that terminate 
 this bay, and from whence the ice descends into 
 the sea." It is very probable there has been a 
 misreading of his manuscript, or that severer wea- 
 ther had covered his trees with ice, for we saw none, 
 and that portion of the coast was examined with 
 his voyage constantly before me, and the discre- 
 pancies discussed with our si)y-glasses on the objects. 
 
1837.] 
 
 SINGULAR ICE FORMATION. 
 
 81 
 
 Our observations and speculations, on the motion 
 of the ice now before us, led us to suspect that the 
 whole of the lower body is subject to slide, and that 
 the whole of the substratum, as frequently found 
 within the Arctic Circle, is a slippery mud. I am 
 satisfied that this is the case in Icy Bay, as one 
 berg, which was well up on the shore, moved off to 
 seaward ; grounding- again near what I took for 
 Point Riou. 
 
 This leads me back to our observations on the 
 mathematical forms observed on the 3rd, after 
 passing Bingham Island, and I perceive that Van- 
 couver notices not only the ice, but (at p. 209, 210, 
 vol. iii.) attempts to account for its formation, re- 
 marking that the ice observed (before reaching 
 Point Riou and to the southward) ^vtvS not so clean, 
 " most of them appearing to be dirty." How came 
 they so ? 
 
 If the dark, " dirty " ice had been near the beach, 
 it could readily be accounted for, by having been 
 agitated with the beach mud, and forced up by gales. 
 But the reverse is the fact. The darker ice was on 
 the high ridges, and the bright near the sea. Only 
 the theory of a slip would allow of its moving down 
 the inclined plane without disturbing its mathema- 
 tical arrangement. Vancouver's visit occurred in 
 the latter end of June, ours in the early part of 
 September. 
 
 In Icy Bay, the apparently descending ice from 
 the mountains to the base was in irregular, broken 
 
 I 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 CAPE PHIPPS. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 I 
 
 masses, tumbling in confusion, similar to ico forced 
 in upon the beacli by gales of wind. They were 
 doubtless detached masses from the mountains. But 
 near Cape Suckling the inclination of the steps was 
 very slight, and apparently had subsided i)erpendi- 
 cularly for many miles in gradation. 
 
 The forms observed will best be illustrated liy the 
 sketch. (Vide plate and woodcut.) 
 
 By night we had a confirmed fair wind, a relief 
 of no small moment bodily, as well as mentally, for 
 anxiety most decidedly deadens the faculties ; and 
 I was anything but easy respecting the Starling, as 
 from Kellett's sanguine temperament he might 
 think our protracted absence imported accident, and 
 starting to seek us, might miss us for some time. 
 
 On the morning of the 7th we had sighted the 
 land near Cape Phipps, and found that we had been 
 driven much to the westward by the current. 
 Fortunately I was prepared for this, and hauled up 
 until I brought Mount Fairweather over Cape 
 Turner, which the chart showed to be a good leading 
 mark (or N. 88" E.) for the entrance. 
 
 We were even in doubt on opening the mouth 
 of the port, which appeared like a cluster of islands. 
 However, I knew, if she was within, that a gun would 
 soon bring some signal in return, and was not de- 
 ceived, as the smoke of the Starling's reply soon 
 curled over the points. Being sure of our mark, 
 we bore up for the anchorage, passing from sound- 
 inos at sixtv fathoms suddenlv into thirteen and 
 
1837.] 
 
 PORT MULCiRAVE. 
 
 83 
 
 oiglit, and as suddenly deepening ag'ain to forty, 
 until reaching the ledge off Cape Turner, when it 
 exceeded the length of our handlines. 
 
 The ohservations in Vancouver were sufficient to 
 have taken us in, l)ut we ])icked up Kellett olfCape 
 Turner, and instantlv availed ourselves of his later 
 examination of the port. We took up our lierth 
 close round the low gravelly point of the island, in 
 thirteen fathoms, within three hundred yards of the 
 beach. 
 
 The Starling had only arrived three days before 
 us, having been, like ourselves, delayed nine days by 
 currents and baffling winds. The day was sufficiently 
 fine to enable me to secure all the requisite observa- 
 tions for latitude, time, astronomical bearings, and 
 altitudes of St. Elias and Fairweather, as well as 
 magnetic details. 
 
 The principal chief of this tribe, Anoutchy, paid 
 his visit of ceremony, accompanied by his lady. 
 Better specimens of the improved state of the 
 Indians I have not seen. Both were clean, and 
 well-dressed; the chief by the aid of an old coat and 
 trowsers bestowed on him by Kellett ; and his lady 
 in a dark-coloured cotton gown with blue and 
 scarlet cloak, a la robe, over all. He had assumed 
 the name of Iwan Iwatsky, probably in com])li- 
 ment to one of the Russian traders, who frequently 
 visit this port. 
 
 Their manners were good, even in some degree 
 polished ; and although not particularly well-bred 
 
 G 2 
 
 I, , 
 
I 
 
 i' 
 
 |: 
 
 ifl 
 
 y: 
 
 i 
 
 84 
 
 NATIVE CHIEF. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 at table, they were evidently not unacquainted with 
 the use of knife, fork, and plate. 
 
 It was a very gratifying sight to observe such a 
 change amongst such a set as we found them asso- 
 ciated with, even comjjaring them with their com- 
 peers (as chiefs). 
 
 A NATIVE CHIEF OF PORT MULGRAVE. 
 
 Kellett acquainted me that this chief possessed 
 very high notions of territorial right, and had thrown 
 difficulties in the way of wooding and watering, 
 which he was glad that our presence would remove. 
 
 Having given him a few presents, and intimated 
 
H37. 
 with 
 
 [?h a 
 isso- 
 'om- 
 
 1837.] 
 
 NATIVE PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 85 
 
 ?sed 
 )wn 
 
 )ve. 
 ted 
 
 my intention of adding to tliem at my departure, he 
 was well pleased, and retired to the shore. 
 
 On the first arrival of the Starling, but few canoes 
 had appeared; these nearly doubled daily, until his 
 position called for a vigilance which was unpleasant, 
 and made them comparatively prisoners. 
 
 Our presents having allayed every unpleasant 
 feeling, the utmost security was felt, so as to admit of 
 full range to sportsmen and naturalists. 
 
 One peculiarity which I noticed in this tribe, is 
 the manner in which they receive presents — as a 
 due, not as a gift ; and consequently no return is 
 made for civility. They have probably had a lesson 
 from their friends the fiir-dealers, whose maxim is 
 " nothing for nothing." Excepting in traffic, at 
 which they are very keen, nothing could be ob- 
 tained. 
 
 Fish, halibut and salmon of two kinds, were 
 abundant and moderate, of which the crews purchased 
 and cured great quantities. Game very scarce ; one 
 goose and a small blue-winged duck were all the 
 birds that were brought for sale. The remains of 
 Russian establishments were observed ; a block- 
 house perched on a cliff on the east side ; and on the 
 low point, where our astronomical observations were 
 taken, the ruins of another ; also a staff, with a vane 
 and cross over a grave. 
 
 Strawberry plants were very numerous, but the 
 ladies had cleared them of fruit, and were busied 
 during the day procuring supplies of these and other 
 
80 
 
 N All V !•: ( ) kN A M i:nt.s. 
 
 [1^37. 
 
 berries from the niaiii, which, with smIiiiou, appear 
 to constituto their chief food. 
 
 Altliough iTiaiiy seal-skins were noticed, I did 
 not observe this or animal food amongst them. 
 Deer is said to abound, but on asking for it, they 
 pointed to and named Sitka (in Norfolk Sound) 
 and Nootka. Their implements of chase are far 
 inferior to those in use amongst the Esquimaux or 
 Aleutians. 
 
 The men are wretchedly clothed, in mats woven 
 with tlie inner l)ark jf the cypress, wliich is tough, 
 Hoxible, ?ind very soft. The wonu^n are very similar 
 to the Es(|uimaux, dilferiiig however in the modth- 
 ornament, which is here worn in im apertun; under 
 
 . t I 
 
 ) ' ; 
 
 ! 
 
 ' ■•■^^. 
 
 21 
 
 ^^"';' M ' :.:/ 
 
 > \ 
 
 w^ 
 
 WOMAN v:\r\i Mf)rTii-i'n:rF, 
 
 iV- 
 
« 
 
 1837.] 
 
 THE CMIKFIS FAMILY. 
 
 iS7 
 
 the lower lip. It is of wood, jiiid retains its phice 
 by the elasticity of the flesli eontracting in the 
 groove, substituting larger ornaments as they grow 
 up, or as the aj)erture elongates. They are as filthy 
 as such tribes usually are, beyond descrij)tion, and 
 use Vermillion, and any paint they can get. I 
 must, however, except the chiefs lady and daughters, 
 as not wearing these ornaments, or paint, and ex- 
 hibiting a dislike to it. The latter I had not the 
 ])leasure of seeing, but I am told one is very pretty, 
 — I supj)ose we may add, " for the tribe." 
 
 On the 8th October, after completing our astro- 
 nomical observations, and swinging the ship for 
 local attraction, we took leave of our friends, and 
 w itli great difficulty got up our anchor, owing to the 
 tough clay in which it had hooked. Light airs ])re- 
 vented our getting out, although towed by the 
 canoes as well as our own ])oats ; I therefore turned 
 her head to her old anchorage for tlie night. The 
 chief and his lady, who had come to secure the as- 
 sistance of their tribe, as soon as they perceived my 
 determination, were (juite delighted, — the only time 
 I had seen them relax their features, — and haran- 
 guing the canoes, j)articularly her ladyship, tliey not 
 only increased in numbers, but also in efforts, which 
 1,'ad they ai)plied earlier, we shoukl have gained an 
 offing. We were very soon at anchor. I think 
 they gained a saw and hatchet for this nuuuruvre. 
 They well knew every hour of delay wouM enrich 
 them. 
 
I 
 
 in 
 
 
 ^8 
 
 DANGEROUS POSITION. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 About six the tbllowin^ luoriiin*,^ a breeze enabled 
 us to get out. We were vi8ite<l by the j^reater part 
 of the canoes ; but the chief and ids lady, who had 
 taken tea with us, and finished by asking for a little 
 warm gin and water, were probably too sleej)y to 
 pay us a visit at this early hour. 
 
 About nine the l)reeze giving us too great a velo- 
 city for the canoes, and their saleable articles being 
 expended, one by one they gradually dropped ott' 
 and left us to pursue our course. We found some 
 difficulty in gaining a fair offing, and stood in until 
 the last moment of daylight, in order to ensure a 
 long tack after eight p.m. 
 
 At half-past seven I left the deck, after the deep 
 sea cast was given " no bottom ;" but I was not 
 quite satisfied that I ought to credit it. However, 
 as I had great objections to discuss the matter 
 with the mate in charge of the watch, I thought 
 l)0ssibly that the next cast he would be more atten- 
 tive. I had hardly been seated in my cabin five 
 minutes, when breakers ahead and under the lee 
 were reported, and the first lieutenant being on 
 deck, relieved him from charge, and i^rejjared for 
 j)utting her about. On reaching the deck, I found 
 her behaving well, and by timely humouring with the 
 helm, she was safely stayed. After the sails were 
 full, and with the wind abeam, the influence of the 
 roller swell, within which we were, was such that she 
 barely rcaclieil out. The least depth we found after 
 she was tacked, and had gone several times her 
 
 hi 
 
1837.] 
 
 SllOAL WATi:i{. 
 
 89 
 
 le 
 
 .'1' 
 
 leii^tli, was Mt'vcii futli(nns, sjiiul. The swoll was very 
 lii^li, not croHtiii^ outsido oi' us, Imt roariii*? Horc^'ly 
 within, wiioro ail was ono slioot of foam. 
 
 I am iiu'linod to tliinlv tliis nnist liavo boon an 
 off-slioro slioal ; as at tlio time I quittod tlio (look no 
 land could bo soon within throo milos of us. 1 did 
 not make any si<j;nals until wo roachod forty fathoms, 
 (foarin^ to draw Starling into dan«]^or,) whon li^^hts 
 woro sliown, a bluo li<>;ht Inu'uod, and a <^tin fired. 
 She did not porcoivo or did not answor, and my 
 anxioty during the ni«^ht was gn^at. lint trusting 
 to tlio triod caution of Kollott, I folt oasior for the 
 Starling than if she had boon in otlior hands. 
 
 During the night the Mind and sea increased 
 much, making her plunge heavily, but before day- 
 light the weather had moderated, and the wind shift- 
 ing to the westward, enabled us to crowd canvass for 
 Norfolk Sound. 
 

 II 
 
 
 
 l! > 
 
CJIAI'TKR IV. 
 
 Norfolk Sound, Cnpc Edgecumbe - Sitka - Russian Covonior 
 Kouprcanon—Ercct observatory— Establislunent of Sitkn— 
 Small-pox among the Indians— Attention of the Governor- 
 Entertainment to the natives-Probable cause of disagreements 
 —Musical instruments— Slavery— Russian ball— Quit Sitka— 
 Customary signals— Reach Woody Point-Anchor in Friendly 
 Cove, Nootka-Arrival of Macquilla-Description of natives - 
 Exhibition of mngic-lanthcrn and fireworks -A court fool— 
 Sulkiness of Maequilk on our refusal to trade— Description of 
 natives -Quit Nootka and proceed to Sau Francisco. 
 
92 
 
 SITKA. 
 
 [1837- 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 :'H 
 
 I I 
 
 On the night of Sej)tember 11th we observed the 
 aurora. The 1)reeze failed us about noon next day, 
 within a sluut distance of Cape Edgecumbe. This 
 remarkable land 's not sufficiently described by Van- 
 couver, or we should have reached the mouth of 
 the sound, and derived the benefit of the flood- 
 tide, instead of being compelled to anchor and warp 
 off the rocks. 
 
 Cape and Mount Edgecumbe may be easily dis- 
 tinguished ; the latter by being a high donie-shai)ed 
 })eak, on which streaks of snow and bright lines of 
 reddish-yellow clay radiate from its ai)ex. There is 
 not any other high hill on the coast, and the bluff 
 termination of its western slojje is Cai)e Edgecumbe, 
 which, if the sound be open, will also exhibit close 
 under its southern side two small but high islands 
 called *' Bird Islands." 
 
 In the morning we had stretched well into the 
 southern })art of the sound, and p1 daylight tacked 
 t«> the nortln^ard, with a light breeze in our teeth. 
 
1837.] 
 
 RUSSIAN GOVERNOR. 
 
 93 
 
 I despatched Lieutenant Collinson to Bird Island, 
 in order to secure the latitude and longitude during 
 the present favourable weather, He was soon 
 joined by Kellett. 
 
 About three the breeze enabled us to lay up for 
 the centre channel, the houses, citadel, and flags of 
 Sitka showing very distinctly. About half-past 
 three we were visited by the Governor's S'jcretary, 
 Mr. Alexander, in a caiack, with the customary 
 string of boarding questions answered by merchant 
 vessels ; but finding, as they had imagiii'jd, a ship- 
 of-war, these were laid aside, and a note containing 
 the principal points of interest forwa*ded by the 
 caiack. 
 
 The pilot having arrived, we beat into the 
 channel, where, the breeze failing, we resorted to 
 towing, aided by the Governor's barge and other 
 boats sent to our assistance; a practice quite in- 
 dispensable here, where nine vessels out of ten are 
 forced to tow in or out. The Governor had also 
 despatched his lieutenant-aide, who directed in per- 
 son the exertions of the Russians, and did not quit 
 us until dark, when, unable to stem the tide, we 
 dropped anchor about two miles from the Fort. 
 
 The aide-de-camp then accompanied me in my 
 gig to call on the Governor, Captain Koupreanoft*, 
 formerly commanding the Azof, seventy-four, in the 
 Black Sea, who received me in the warmest man- 
 ner, and tendered all the facilities which the port or 
 arsenal could afford ; at the same time, to ])ut nu> 
 
I 
 
 L(i 
 
 i I 
 
 94 
 
 RUSSIAN run KSTABLISIIMENT. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 quite at oaso in followinnf up the objects of the ex- 
 pedition, he requested I wouhl consider myself 
 (juite at home, and make my own arrangements as to 
 the selection of a site for my observatory or any 
 other ])ursuits. He speaks English well, and with 
 true Enoflish feeling acted uj) to all he professed ; 
 indeed, his civilities were overpowering. The Sul- 
 phur is the first foreign vessel of war that has visited 
 this colony. 
 
 Having ^varjied the ship to within a cable's 
 length of the arsenal, the observsitory was landed on 
 an island opposite, and we h.id the good fortune to 
 obtain comjiletc sights, and secure our meridian 
 before midnight. The natives visited us, bringing 
 salmon, &c., and some few skins, but the Governor 
 having most kindly sui>plied us Avith more of the 
 former than we could consume, and any traffic in the 
 latter being expressly against the laws of the colony 
 in which we were guests, I consi(lered it j)rudent, 
 and what courtesy demanded, that traffic on board 
 or at the observatory should be tabooed. This soon 
 shortened the numbers of hangers on, whose j)rinci- 
 ])al object is generally to note the nakedness of the 
 land, and aid in depredations at night. 
 
 Independent of this, as the Governor informed me, 
 that even in his time, two years, their fortress had 
 been threatened, and that, although seven hundred 
 only were now in our neighbourhood, seven thou- 
 sand might arrive in a few hours, I deemed it pru- 
 dent to keep them as much aloof as our sentinels. 
 
 1 ! 
 
1837.] 
 
 THE FORTIFICATION'S. 
 
 95 
 
 without resorting^ to stron;; measures, could effect. 
 At the same time, as our boats wouhl be engaged in 
 the examination of the sound durin<i* our stay, it 
 became necessary to preserve an amicable feeling so 
 long as they conducted themselves quietly. 
 
 The establishment at Sitka is situated on a broad 
 flat delta, on the outer rocky ])eninsula of which the 
 fortress, which is now reliuilding, stands. It is 
 about sixty feet above the sea-level, and com]»letely 
 commands all the anchorages in the immediate 
 neighbourhood, as well as the peninsula. The inner 
 line, which traverses the longest base of this delta, is 
 l)rotected by a heavy line of picketted logs, twenty- 
 five feet in height, surmounted en cheveux de frise, 
 and flanked at the angles, within musket-shot of 
 each other, by small block-house redoubts, loo]>holed 
 and furnished with small guns and swivels. It ex- 
 tends from the sea in three fathoms, about one 
 mile through to the river. This cuts off all con- 
 nexion with the natives, but through ", portcullis 
 door, admitting into a railed yard those bringing 
 goods to market. This door is closely watched by 
 two or three guards, who, upon the least noise or 
 disimte in the market, drop the portcullis, and pro- 
 ceed summarily with the delinquents. 
 
 As the traffic is generally conducted by women 
 and children, and the Russians moreover employ 
 female spies in the camp, they are always well 
 warned, and fully prepared for any act of treachery. 
 They have also a party of their allies, (slaves?) the 
 
90 
 
 TITK AKShNAL. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 Kodiacks, on the opposite side of the stream, who 
 con(hu't the greater part of the trafllic with the na- 
 tives, and catch and cure fish for the general coii- 
 sunij)tion. 
 
 The ])resent very su1)stantial house erecting for 
 tlie (lovernor and his establishment, is ahout one 
 hundred and forty feet in length, by seventy feet wide, 
 of two good stories, with lofts, caj)ped by a lighthouse 
 in the centre of the roof. The sunnnit of the light 
 is one hundred and ten feet above the sea-level, and 
 connnands a most extensive prospect. The building 
 is of wood, solid ; scmie of the logs measuring 
 seventy-six and eighty feet in length, and s(juai'ing 
 one foot. They h.ilf dovetail over each other at the 
 angles, and are treenailed together vertically. The 
 roof is pitched, and covered with sheet iron. 
 
 When complete, the fortifications (one side only 
 of which at present remains) will comprise five sides, 
 u])on which forty pieces of cannon will be mounted, 
 j)rincipally old ship guns, varying from twelve to 
 twenty-fouv pounders. The bulwarks are of wood, 
 and fitted similarly to the i)orts on the maindeck of 
 a frigate. 
 
 The arsenal, which is immediatelv under, on the 
 low ground, is well-stored with cordage of every 
 descrij)tion, and of very superior (juality. The 
 cables and large rope come by sea, but the yarn, in 
 packages of fifty-six pounds, is transported on mules 
 througli Siberia. The range of artificers is very 
 complete, and specimens of their workmanship in 
 
to 
 
 <>t 
 
 I- Jm^ 
 
 the 
 
 in 
 
 in 
 
\ 
 
 1837.] 
 
 KSTAHLISHMKXT. 
 
 97 
 
 every dcimrtment (more tlian !in m-sonal generally 
 boasts) attest very superior ability. 
 
 The saw-mills, which are worked by water, are 
 about twenty miles distant, half way down the south 
 side of the sound, at Les Sources, or warm springs, 
 which serves as a >'ort of llarroMgate to the colony. 
 
 Their most valuable wood is a very iine-grained 
 bright-yellow cyi)ress, of which they build boats, and 
 export the plank in payment of debts contracted for 
 supplies from the Sandwich Islands, (princii»ally 
 China and other goods.) They have a building slip, 
 l)rotected by a house, similar to those in our dock- 
 yards, and have, I am informed, built one very fine 
 vessel. 
 
 The establishment comprises that of a ship of the 
 lire, one captain, the governor; one commander, 
 (lieutenant-governor ;) and lieutenants, masters, &c., 
 according to the number of vessels employed. The 
 total number is about eight hundred, but of these 
 many, if not the greater part, are invalids ; but few 
 able-bodied men were visible. Many, of course their 
 picked mon, were absent in their vessels, visiting 
 the ports and collecting the furs, which were daily 
 expected to arrive, — when the vessels are laid up, 
 and they rema'n quiei until the spring. 
 
 I visited every part of the establishment with the 
 Governor, and although a man-of-war's man's ideas 
 of cleanliness are perhaps occasionally acute, (and 
 these people are yet a shade lower in civiliza- 
 tion by their intermarriage with the natives,) yet I 
 
 VOL. I. H 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 DH 
 
 ^ !! 
 
 THE cmrRCH 
 
 [1837. 
 
 still witnossed comparative cloaiiliness and (Munfort, 
 and much to admire, j)articularly in the school and 
 hosnital. In the latter, the name of the man, date 
 of admission, and nature of disease, is placed over 
 the bed of each patient, which in any contagious 
 disease gives timely warning to any one fearing in- 
 fection. 
 
 Not long since, tlie '^mall-pox committed dvtadful 
 ravn<rf p, am' ^:*s' ;,< ; Indians, um\ tlircatened to prove 
 a still greater jH-sti! nee, by their neglect of their 
 dead, and not unfr -'ontly of the living, whom 
 they quitted the moment chey found them infected. 
 
 The colony having arrived from the westward, 
 brought their own Sunday ; consequently we were 
 generally working on our opposite holidays, a mea- 
 sure I could only obviate by respecting their day of 
 worship, and giving our men a holiday. To our ar- 
 tificers, who could not work at the dockyard on their 
 Sabbath, this was a serious drawback, when we con- 
 sidered the short period of our stay. 
 
 I visited their church, and witnessed the ceremony. 
 The interior of the edifice is splendid, quite beyond 
 conception in such a place as this. The padre, who 
 officiated in his splendid robes, was a very powerful 
 athletic man, about forty-five years of age, and stand- 
 ing in his boots (which appear to be part of his 
 costume) about six feet three inches ; quite Her- 
 culean, and very clever. I took a very great liking 
 to him, {iud was jiermitted to examine his workshop, 
 in which I noticed a good barrel-oi-gan, a baro- 
 
l.s:)7.j 
 
 KSTAMIJSIIMKM. 
 
 99 
 
 iiH'U'r, and sevonil otiicr sirticU's of his own inami- 
 fac'turo. Ho was kind oiiouirli to voiiuitoor liis 
 services on one or two of our sick barometers, and 
 succee('ed effectually. Notwitiistandin^ lie oidy 
 spoke Russian, of wh>< *i 1 knew nothing, we nia- 
 naf^ed to become ^'^reat allies. He has since been 
 ])roniot''d and gone home. 
 
 On their Sundav, all the officers of the establish- 
 mcnt, civil as well as military, dine at the Governor's. 
 During the week the military meet at tlu? mess daily 
 at one. The dinner is s(»on discussed. They f»- 
 assemble at five, take tea, and ri'niain luitil suf j<n 
 at ten or eleven, during which interval ecu, or 
 billiards occupy their time. The attenticms ,)i t.e 
 (Jovernor and his establishment were liiin' in the 
 extreme. 
 
 The vesf^els in ])ort were one shij), corvette-built, 
 of four hundred and fifty tons, c(nnman(led by the 
 Lieuten{int-( Jovernor, and two brigs commanded by 
 a lieutenant and a master. They belong to the " Im- 
 perial Russo-American Fur Comi)any, ' who are ])aid 
 similarly to (mr troops employed in the service of 
 the East India Comi)any, retaining their rank, and 
 their service time going on. 
 
 We visited several stations in the sound, in order 
 to determine the ])osition of Mount Edgecumbe, 
 the Cai)e, Pouce, and some 'of the mountains in the 
 sound, in prosecution of a jirojected survey ; a ])arty 
 was also employed cutting wood (cypress) intended 
 for the construction of a new wjiale-bont. 
 
 II 'J 
 
1(H) 
 
 VISIT or CIIIKFM. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 The cliiefs havinpp pestered the Gov.rnor to ask 
 permiHsion to visit the Sulphur, and jt^iad on my 
 part of an occasion to show tiiat no unfriendly feel- 
 ing ivept them away, I immediately consented to a 
 nomination of the best characters, amountincf to 
 thirty-seven, which, witii tlie achlition of the Russian 
 officers and ourselves, would form a i)retty large 
 party. 
 
 They observed great ceremony in their a])])r()ac]i, 
 and were dressed in the most fantastic garb ima- 
 ginable, being generally painted with scores of Ver- 
 million, in some instances not devoid of taste. 
 Some had helmets of wood, carved in imitation of 
 frogs, seals, fish, or birds' heads. Others wore the 
 very sensible plain conical hat * without rim, which 
 serves effectually to ward off sun or rain ; and the 
 generality wore, or carried with them, their native 
 shawl, which is very laboriously worked into carpet 
 figures, from the wool of some animal which I could 
 not ascertain. One or two had cloaks of American 
 sables, which were very handsome, but far inferior to 
 those of Siberia. 
 
 Most of the helmet party wore ermine skins, tied 
 loosely about them, which I found were purchased 
 at the factory, and are imported from Siberia (via 
 Ochotsk) for traffic with the natives. 
 
 I had an opportunity here, as well as at Port 
 Etches, of viewing some of the skins, particularly the 
 sea-otter, which they purchase from the natives, and 
 * Used by Mandarins in China. 
 
18^7.] 
 
 HAIITKR. 
 
 101 
 
 wtiH not a little HurnnHod to tiiul liow coinplotrly 
 thoy lijivi' arrived at their Htandard value, wliicli is 
 a veryhi;jfh price. A moderately ^i)od sea-otter skin 
 will fetch from six to seven blankets, increasing to 
 thirteen for the best ; no bargain being conclusive 
 without sundry nicknacks, similar to the Chinese 
 cumshaw. These generally may be estimated at one 
 blanket, which should be worth twelve shillings 
 here. In money they frequently ask forty dollars ; 
 on the coast of California, at San Francisco, and 
 Monterey, as much as eighty to a hundred. 
 
 When ottering objects for sale, they are very sulky 
 if their tender is not responded to ; which in some 
 measure accounts for the ill-humour experience<l at 
 Port Mulgrave, and which I am ijiclined to think 
 would have terminated in hostility had I commenced 
 purchases which could not have been followed up. 
 Upon very mature consideration of what I have 
 heard and seen respecting this subject, I think 
 many of the uni)rovoked attacks we have heard of 
 have originated in some transaction of this nature — 
 refusal to trade being deemed almost a declaration 
 of war. Facts, however, which have been .acknow- 
 ledged, prove that wanton malice has visited upon 
 the next tribe the sins of their offending neighbours. 
 This accounts for the two extremes we notice — ex- 
 traordinary timidity when they are the weaker, and 
 overbearing impertinence when they fancy them- 
 selves the more powerful party. 
 
 But to return to our party. The canoes were as 
 
U)'2 
 
 <i;uKMoNii;s. 
 
 [|h:{7. 
 
 t'autiistic as tlirir <»<'(Mipiiiits, (tor wliicli vi«U' Mkctrli.) 
 Tlu'V wrn-nirvrdiii |;rot»'H<|iM' ti;^nir<'H,aiMl nMinirkuM) 
 well liaii(IU>il. Artci- ciu'ircliiiH' tlir ship, siii^nn^, and 
 ^I'stinilatin^', as if slir was to lircoiiir u ^mmmI pii/,<', 
 tlicv at l^llJ^•th <*aiiu' on lioanl, and wt'iv si'vcrallv 
 |nvsrnttM| hv tlir (iovi'inor, — not omitting tlicir rir- 
 fut's or ricr rrrsd, when tliry posscsni'tl ^utticicnt 
 n»»torii'tv. I oliscrvrtl that tlioso win. lia<l lH'(M)nu' 
 (nominally) I'liristians wimv t'ntith'd to prcctMUMU'i*, 
 l»nt no paiticniar virtncs wcri' t-nnincratiul as tlii'ii- 
 I'spi'i'ial property. 
 
 A loiust, as it is tornu'd lu'ri-, «>f rice and molasses, 
 
 NATIVK iniKl Ob- SITKA. 
 
 ! 
 
 1^ 
 
 
 i'; 
 
 
 
 :l 
 
 
 1 
 
 ! 
 
im:{7.1 
 
 KNTKItT/MNMKNT 111 NATrVKH. 
 
 io:{ 
 
 liad Ih'cii |irovi(l('4l, on tuhlrs luii^cil a tli(> iimiii- 
 (Icck. hiNtcad of tin* proposnl tliirty-Ncvcii, 1 
 think one linn<li'tMl nii^lit he nrtircr their nuinhor, 
 After u\H' ^ood feed they Wi're served with |ire- 
 vionsly dihited |,n'o^r; (mixed toSitku |>r((ot',uhontf'onr 
 to one;) then ]i second dose of rice und niohisses, lol- 
 h»\V(Ml by th(> p^ro<r, and then a tiiird, finished thatpart 
 <»f t\w meal ; the hidies (piietly baK,i(in|r tlie remains 
 inonh'r, I presnme, to prevent tiieir soiling onr main- 
 dirk. One or two hidicrous dan<*es followed, t«» their 
 own music, — a species (»f tandxnirine, clappin^r, yell- 
 ing, &('., and a new musical instrument, comjtosed 
 of three hoo[»s with a cross in the centre, the circum- 
 
 -KMitia . 
 
 CASTANET. 
 
 ferences being closely strung with the beaks of the 
 Alca arctica. Tliis being held by the centre of the 
 cross froh below, and given a short vibratory motion, 
 similar to the escapement of a watch, produced not 
 a bad accompaniment. 
 
^.-fi^- 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 104 
 
 SLAVKRY. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 I vvuH heort'ly j-iad wlioii thoy docainpod, hh tliey 
 lu'^an to bo lUMsy, wanti'd more Inmme (ruin,) and 
 thought they luul not been treated well, — being as 
 yvtt ofih/ hall-.seas over, it was too apparent what a i)est 
 tiiey might liave turned out had I indulged them 
 further ! 
 
 TOMB. 
 
 Slavery exists throughout the tril. i on this part of 
 the American coast, and some facts related by the 
 Governor evince the extent to which they are sub- 
 servient to the caprices of their mastei*s. If a chief 
 wishes to insult anotlier, he sacrifices to him a cer- 
 taiu number of slaves. It would bo loss of stamp 
 if the opponent failed in despatching an equal 
 
1837.] 
 
 GOVKUNORS HALL. 
 
 io;> 
 
 imnilHT, but g-i'iierally a lurji^or iiumlK'r unswors the 
 Insult. Tills may coiitlinu' until iliry have t'Xjx'udcd 
 tliolr stock, when they possibly conu! to j)C'i*sonal 
 attack, assist'-d by tlioir allies of the tribe. 
 
 On tlie 2()th of Septoniber, bavlnjjf completed our 
 observatiouf we embarked the observatory, and 
 moved down to the outer roads, in order to proceed 
 to sea by a more direct channel. Before parting, 
 the (lovernor gave an evening party and <lance, to 
 show us the female society of Sitka. The evening 
 passed most delightfully ; and although the ladies 
 were almost self-taught, they acijuitted themselves 
 with all the ease, and I may add elegance, connnuni- 
 cated by European instruction. Although few could 
 converse with their |)artners, they still contrived to 
 get through the dance without the slightest diffi- 
 culty. Quadrilles and waltzing were ke|>t up with 
 great spirit, and I was not a little sur|)rise(l to learn 
 from our good friend and host, that many of the 
 ladies then moving before us with easy and graceful 
 air, had not an idea of dancing twelve months [)r('- 
 vious. [ believe that the society is indebted prin- 
 cipally to the Governors elegant and accomplished 
 lady for much of this polish. 
 
 This lady is of one of the first Russian families, 
 and resembles the pictures of the em[)ress. She 
 accompanied her husbard, enduring great hardships, 
 through Siberia to Ocho sk on horseback or nniles, in 
 a most critical moment, in order to share Mith him 
 the i)rivations of this barbarous region. Tiie lady of 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
lOG 
 
 NORFOLK SOUND. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 ml I '1 
 
 iM' 
 
 \V'> 
 
 ■I i 
 
 Haroii Wraiigel, I tliiiik, was the first Russian lady 
 who ventured so far. 
 
 The whole establishment a})|)ears to be rapidly on 
 the advance, and at no distant period we may hear 
 of a trip to Norfolk Sound (through America) as 
 little more than a summer excursion. 
 
 On the 27th of September we parted from our 
 friends with much regret, and to the latest moment 
 experienced acts of kindness and attention. Our 
 egress was by the direct or southern channel, which 
 leads clear of dangers, and allows of free working 
 room at a distance of three miles from the an- 
 chorage. 
 
 There are several remarkable hills in the sound 
 which, in foggy weather, show their summits above 
 all, and serve to help the navigator who has before 
 seen them ; but unless particularly inserted on the 
 chart, they are of course useless. 
 
 Of these. Mount Edgecumbe, at the northern en- 
 trance, is three thousand one hundred and thirty 
 feet above the sea-level, and is easily known by its 
 denuded red stripes. The Pouce, immediately be- 
 hind the arsenal, is three thousand four hundred 
 feet, and indicates the direction to which the vessel 
 must be pushed for anchorage before dark. 
 
 The Russian chart places a light on one of the 
 rocks in the western channel, but this is incorrect. 
 There is but one light, and that is on the citadel, 
 and, unless a vessel makes her signal, will not be il- 
 luminated. 
 
1837.] 
 
 FRIENDLY COVE, 
 
 107 
 
 it8 
 be- 
 red 
 ssel 
 
 Two guns is the customary signal ; aiul boats will 
 come out to assist, the ])ilot coming ott' in one of 
 them. 
 
 There are many rocks nearly even with the 
 water's edge, which by daylight may easily be 
 avoided, but the distinct channels are not easily dis- 
 cerned by a stranger, even when assisted by the 
 Jiussian chart. 
 
 The late strong breezes had raised a heavy wes- 
 terly swell, which caused us to make very pooi- 
 work of it, and agitated our chronometers consider- 
 ably. However, on the morning of October 3rd, 
 we reached Woody Point, and at four the same 
 evening, anchored in " Friendly Cove," Nootka 
 Sound, the very interesting i)oint of Cook and Van- 
 couver's operations. 
 
 At first I doubted my senses, that so small a 
 space could have occupied so much type, and until 
 1 had examined it myself in my boat, did not think 
 it could afford shelter to two vessels. However, by 
 placing one anchor outside, one well in, and the 
 stream cable to the rocks, the Sulphur became well 
 secure with the Starling within us. The greatest 
 distance between any two points does not exceed a 
 (juarter of a mile, and mostly rocky. 
 
 The weather, during our stay, proved very unpro- 
 pitious for astronomical observations, and beyond 
 the absolute requisites for time and latitude, little 
 was obtained, and that only after tediously watching 
 for several days. 
 
108 
 
 MACUUILLA. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 The Indians very shortly bejtran to assemble about 
 us in their canoes, ofFi3ring fish ; one in particular re- 
 fused any return, and, from his appearance, and quiet. 
 
 ^ .>) 
 
 
 t. '. 
 
 MACaUILLA. 
 
 I Xi 
 
 dignified behaviour, as M'ell as the respect shown 
 him by those in liis own canoe, and in those around 
 him, I was satisfied that he was above the common 
 herd. There were others, of probably opj)osition 
 tribes, who assumed more, and Mere more gaudily 
 dresbed, but I determined on giving my (piiet friend 
 ths preference. He was invited on board, and I 
 had the satisfaction of finding him to be no otlier 
 
 t' 
 
1837.] 
 
 NOOTKA CHIEFS. 
 
 109 
 
 (lily 
 (I T 
 
 than Macquilla, the husband of the (ksrondant of tlio 
 Macquilla or Maquinna of Vancouver, (who states 
 that he left his daughter his successor, and he pro- 
 bably assumed the name Mitli his wife.) 
 
 He intimated tliat Wican-un-ish stood first in 
 repute, himself (Mack-quill-a) second, and Nook-a- 
 mis third. 
 
 He was accompanied by his wife, a son, and 
 daughter, who were evidently of the same breed as 
 liimself; much fairer and smoother-skinned th.an 
 others of the race (or races) about us, and possess- 
 ing rather prepossessing and agreeable features. 
 
 Vancouver's descrij>tion of Maquinna's daugliter 
 would accord very well with the present, excepting 
 that the young lady here introduced was yet but a 
 chihl. Her features were, however, more of the 
 Chinese or Tartar breed, than tliose of the brother. 
 Her manner was very simple and winning; sIk> had 
 black expressive eyes ; and her affection for her 
 father, on whom she often clung, with her he; d re- 
 posed on his shoulder, was quite a novel sight 
 amongst these peojile. 
 
 The son, as well as the daughter, appear- ! to 
 receive all the respect due to high rank, even roui 
 the father, who invariably turned over his pres its to 
 them. 
 
 I treated them with rice, ni(dasses, aiii; very 
 diluted rum and sugar, after the fashion it Sitka, 
 which they appeared to enjoy ; but tin damsel 
 
 r'il 
 
110 
 
 MACiK-LANTiroKN. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 i i 
 
 making very wry f'aci's at the latter, wine was or- 
 dered ; Aw father, however, anxious to taste every- 
 thing offered her, evidently i)referred the milder be- 
 verage. 
 
 After their repast, presents were given to them, 
 and notice given to retire. This I found not so 
 easily effected, the father and son remaining ; and 
 1 was compelled to quit them, to ])ui*sue my duties 
 on shore. I found them on my return still on 
 hoard, and, from what I could ascertain from their 
 signs, anxious to barter their furs. I endeavoured 
 to make them comprehend that our supplies were 
 not calculated for trade, nor beyond presents ; that I 
 expected no return ; and further, that I would land 
 in the evening, and show them fireworks, &c. 
 
 At dusk I landed, taking with me a magic-lan- 
 tliom and supply of fireworks. At the formor they 
 all exhibited the most unfeigned delight, to a 
 <legree quite outrageous ; but at the ascent of the 
 rockets, their impressions amounted to fear. I had 
 several women grasping me by each hand, huddled 
 into one groupe, and evidently trembling ; and, by 
 the light from the fire, I could perceive the tears 
 rolling down the cheeks of Macquilla's wife an<J 
 daughter, who fled to the bassh the instant the 
 fireworks were over; nor could they be jjersuaded 
 to return, even to Avitness a second exhibition of 
 the magic-lanthorn. 
 
 The excessive enjoyment of Mac(juilla was ridi- 
 
1837.] 
 
 TRADi:. 
 
 Ill 
 
 culously (lisj)layo(l, by tearing tlic husliy luiir of his 
 |)articular frioiul or court-fool, but not so violently 
 as to remove it by the roots. 
 
 On the day following-, 1 still found tlie chief in 
 bad humour, and at lenofth he desj)atched his fool 
 or first aid, to know whether I intended to trade or 
 not, as he was about to proceed immediately to 
 Tasheis, his residence, some miles up the sound, 
 — Nootka being merely a fishing station. 
 
 Other natives ol)served in a marked manner, 
 " Macquilla go to Tasheis ;" I therefore presumed 
 that declining to trjide became an insult ; and, as I 
 wished to part on the best terms, I sent to assure 
 him that I would see him again on board, the in- 
 stant I had completed my o})servations. I accord- 
 inly did so, purchased several skins, and aecompanied 
 him to the beach, where I enjoyed my i H aJmut ten 
 minutes, witnessing the effect of his speech, de- 
 scribing our uniforms whicli he had seen, as well as 
 his treatment on board. At each j)ause a complete 
 yell issued from his mynnidoiiH, which at times was 
 {inythiiag but j)leasant. I su])i>o8e it meant " hear, 
 hear," as amongst most cultivated assemblies else- 
 where. 
 
 Mactjuilla is about fifty, five i"e<t eight inches in 
 height, his shoulders very s(]uare in [»roportion, and 
 limbs exceedingly muscular. His countenance might 
 assume any exjiression, from that of determined cou- 
 rage to that of the kindest and mildest feelings ; 
 Init not of fierceness. His complexion is whiter 
 
\]'2 
 
 TKMALKS. 
 
 [1H37. 
 
 and smootliortljun usual. His suiu'riority consists in 
 a (li^niHed, uiu)]>trusive inildiicss of manner and de- 
 ])ortnu'nt. 
 
 His son appears to be l)et\veen twenty-three and 
 twenty-five years of age, and stands alxmt five feet 
 nine inches ; is fair, and possesses more knowledge 
 than the father. His expression is mihl. 
 
 The (hiughter is aj)parently al)out fourteen or fif- 
 teen years old, and, like all the females of the north- 
 west coast, very short-limbed. Like her sex, she was 
 desperately bent on ornaments, and had enough 
 about her neck and wrists (although covered by her 
 blanket) to set uj) a distinct tn de. Unfortunately, 
 I had none to bestow; Govermnent, or Captain 
 Becchey, not having considered the ladies of sufficient 
 importance, to provide the jiresencs necessary for 
 their gratification. This is bad policy, as their fii-st 
 demand is invariably for i)resents for the wives and 
 cliildren; and if thei/ are not gratified, we well 
 know the result all the world over. 
 
 The dress of the natives differs much from those 
 to the northward. Their cloaks, which are circular 
 capes with a hole in the centre, edged with sea-otter 
 skin, are constructed fi*om the inner bark of the 
 cypress. It turns the rain, is very soft and i)liable, 
 and is in use for mats, sails, ropes, clothing, &c. ; 
 the roofs of their houses are also covered with it. 
 
 They make use of the dried fucus giganteus, 
 anointed with oil, for lines, in taking salmon and 
 sea-otters. The hook is baited with a herring, which 
 
18:57.] 
 
 FISHINT). 
 
 11:3 
 
 abound on tlio cojist, and arc taken l>y a lon^- c<m\h 
 with toi'tli abont an inch asunder, and ten inches in 
 len^tli. Thi-^ instrument is beaten into tiie shctal 
 as the canoes «rlido over it, and as the ojteratcn- feels 
 it strilve tiie fish, they are, by a slight inclination 
 of tho hand, turne*! into the canoe. 
 
 Tho sides of tiie bay arc covered by sahnon- 
 Htages in the; sununor season, when that fish is very 
 abundant. (Jooseberries, strawberries, and the 
 wliortleberry appear to l)e jdcMitifnl in sunnner, and 
 probal)ly the ras])berry. 
 
 No vestige remains of tlie settU'nient noticed by 
 Vancouver, nor couhi I discover on the site of th(» 
 Sj)auish battery the slightest trac(> of stones eni- 
 ph)yed for Iniihiing. Tiie cliiefs pointed out wliere 
 their anuses stood, and where the potatoes grew, but 
 not a trjice remains of an l"iUroj)eiUi. 
 
 On my taking leave of them, the chief and his 
 family exhibited much feeling; indeed, \ was not 
 witlnnit some slight share of it my>^elf. I had be- 
 come much interested about the |)arty. Their gene- 
 ral courtesy and freedom from importunity, daily 
 ju'esent of ten salmon, and infornuition rudely im- 
 parted, added to a very pressing invitation to visit 
 them at Tasheis, had convinced me they were; su- 
 perior to any we had yet fallen in with, and that 
 they deserved encouragement. 
 
 If the se.ison had permitted, I certainly would 
 have gone with them to Tasheis, and examined that 
 part of th(» country, but time was precious, the bad 
 
 VOL. I. I 
 
 ¥ I 
 
114 
 
 YllRIlA lUJKNA UAY. 
 
 [18:^7. 
 
 u I 
 
 fiousoii liud iiowurrivod, and 1 inucli dou])ttMl even (d* 
 the propriety of iioariiig, iiiucli moiv attempting to 
 enter, tlie river Columbia. 
 
 On the mornin<r of the 0th C)etol)er, liavin^ eom- 
 ploted our observations at Friendly Cove, Nootka, 
 wc sailed, intending to call off tiie mouth of the 
 river Cohimbia, and if tran(|uil enter; Imt twenty- 
 four hours after our dejtarture, the weather ]»roved 
 boisterous, attended by a h)ng westerly swell, whieh 
 rendercid it Jieeessary to preserve our offing, and 
 make the best of our way to San P'ranciseo. 
 
 On the morning of the li)th October, we made 
 l*unta de los lieyes and the Farallones, the weather 
 being beautifully fine, and the sea smooth ; but the 
 breeze throughout the day did not enable us to 
 make much progress, and further tantalized us by 
 springing up at sunset. Having closely surveyed 
 the entrance to this port in 1827,1 felt satisfied that 
 it was safer and less harassing to our crew to enter 
 by night, than to remain outside, subject to sudd(Mi 
 bad weather, as well as the chance of drifting on 
 the l)ar, where a very unpleasant swell ])revails ^\ith 
 the ebb. 
 
 Abort nine wc entered the heads, and shortly 
 after midnight, as the moon cleared the eastern 
 hills, we dropped anchor in Yerba Buena Bay. We 
 were fortunate in having entered, as it presently 
 blew half a gale, and the Starling outside expe- 
 rienced very unpleasant weather. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 ('imngcs since 1828 — Result of revolution — Delawares — Visit 
 Santa Clara — Decay of the mission —Examine Sacramento — 
 Meet Indian hunters — Reach Point Victoria — Commence 
 survey of river — Short of provisions — Grotesque dresses of 
 Indians — Decrease of population — Animals — Climate— Pro- 
 ductions — Scenery of river— Scarcity .»f provisions — Rejoin 
 Starling — Insecure state of the country — Renegadoes — Quit 
 San Franciso — Anchor at Monterey — State of ith defences — 
 Quit Monterey — Pass Cape San Lucas — Touch at Tres 
 Marias — Reach San Bias. 
 
 I !i 
 
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 s>nJ 
 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
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 L. ^ 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 873-4503 
 
no 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 11 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 n »' 
 
 At (lay]i<^ht I was anxious to take a poop at our 
 old ground, and was much surju'iscd to find every- 
 thing going to decay, and infinitely Morse than we 
 found them ten years before. 
 
 Of the revolution, of which we heard much and 
 expected more, not a trace could be observed; it 
 was a sore subject, and (as it resulted) they were 
 evidently aware of their inability to govern them- 
 selves: no one stepped forward to attempt it, and 
 they quietly fell back under the Mexican yoke. 
 Another fate attends this country; their hour is 
 fast approaching; harassed on all sides by Indians, 
 v,ho are now stripping them of their horses, without 
 which their cattle are not to be preserved ; pestered 
 by a set of renegade deser ers from w^ialers and 
 merchant shipa, who start by dozens, and will 
 eventually form themselves into a bandit gang, and 
 domineer over them ; unable, from want of spirit, to 
 protect themselves ; they will soon dwindle into in- 
 significance. As a proof of their apathy or help- 
 
 si . 
 
1837.] 
 
 SANTA (LARA. 
 
 117 
 
 lessness, a ])arty of Delaware Indians, or American 
 hunters, had a i)erniit from the Governor to hunt 
 for furs " in the back country." Their time l)ein<>- 
 expired, tlie chief returned, hut the remainder, hav- 
 ing ai)pointed a new head, are now carrying on land- 
 piracy throughout the state. In open day they rode 
 to the mission of St. Luis, and took from the " corral " 
 all the horses belonging to the mission, (said to be a 
 thousand !) desiring the adirinistrador to keep clear 
 of riHe ranoe. 
 
 Having a special introduction to the Padre Pre- 
 sidente of the mission residing at Santa Clara, J 
 set out, accompanied by Lieutenant Kellett and our 
 surgeon, to visit him ; hoi)ing to obtain the neces- 
 sary table supplies from the missions, instead of 
 taking our chance at the beach. After much toil, 
 and a night si)ent in the marshes by the fault of a 
 bad pilot, we reached Santa Clara to breakfast, but 
 were miserably disappointed, the padre being absent 
 at San Josef. The mission is fast falling to decay, 
 and scarcely conmion civility was shown to us. 
 
 Lately, all the missions have been transferred into 
 the hands of administradores, who, under the new 
 law, take about two-thirds to themselves, and ac- 
 count for the remaining third to government. The 
 consequence is, that the Indians are robbed ; they 
 do nothing but rob when they can, run away to 
 escape punishment, and then form themselves into 
 gangs, and set their masters at defiance. The niis- 
 the only res})ectable establishments in this 
 
 sions 
 
i 
 
 
 
 1-4 
 
 I 
 
 i : 
 
 
 118 
 
 ENTER SACRAMENTO. 
 
 [iS37. 
 
 country, are thus anniliilatod ; they have been vir- 
 tually i)lundered by all })artics. 
 
 These were the only places of resort for travellers 
 throughout California, and even in their palmy times 
 were only tolerable ; but now a meal cannot be 
 procured without difficulty, and travellers must rely 
 upon their own resources. 
 
 On my return to the ship, I started with the 
 Starling, pinnace, two cutters, and two gigs, to ex- 
 plore the navigable limit of the Rio Sacramento ; one 
 of three streams, diverging about thirty miles up the 
 north-western arm of Estrecho Karquines, where the 
 Blossom's survey terminated. 
 
 At dawn, on the 24th of October, we started, and 
 carried the Starling thirty-six miles. On the 26th, 
 the pilot assuring us that she could not be carried 
 further, we stored our boats with as much provision 
 as they could stow, and moved on. We soon found 
 our pilot mistaken, but it was now too late, our 
 measures were taken, and several boats twenty miles 
 in advance. With a most beautiful day we ad- 
 vanced, touching at particular spots for astronomical 
 stations. Ducks and geese were noticed in great 
 numbers ; also elk and deer, in herds of twenty and 
 thirty ; but there was no time for delay. 
 
 From former descriptions of the river, I was 
 greatly disappointed at not meeting with either the 
 San Joachim or Jesus Maria, equally large streams, 
 said to trifurcate north and south with the Sacra- 
 mento. These streams may possibly be found upon 
 
 1 111 
 
1837.] 
 
 SACRAMKNTO. 
 
 119 
 
 llj7(Hl 
 
 a closer exaiiiiiiatioii, but no sucli idea is conveyed, 
 even to the inquisitive observer, on enterin*^ tlie 
 mouth of tlie Sacramento, which becomes a narrow- 
 stream about twenty miles above the position where 
 we left tlie Starling ; the intermediate extensive 
 sheet of water forming a great archipelago. As our 
 entry was on the northern edge of this archipelago, 
 we were satisfied that no great river ran in the direc- 
 tion of or behind " Elk Range ;" the two streams, 
 if they fork here, must be southerly. 
 
 On our left the high range of the Montes Diavohj, 
 as well as Elk range, a])peared to bound the limits 
 of water. On our right the range of the Sierras Bol- 
 bones was visible, equally from the sea as from the 
 source of the Sacramento. All the intermediate 
 space in the rainy season may be under water, and at 
 such a period, the trifurcation may possibly be 
 apparent ; but our guide a{)j)eared quite as much in 
 the dark as ourselves, and could not afibrd any satis- 
 factory explanation. 
 
 This guide was one of those trained in former 
 days to hunt for Christians!^ and frequently, on be- 
 ing })ressed upon a subject of which he really 
 knew nothing, would reply, " I only know where to 
 find the Indians." 
 
 As these Indians were sought for in streams 
 which flowed southerly of the Bolbones, and at the 
 
 * Boats with soldiers were sent under the direction of the 
 padres to capture Indians and bring them to the missions, wliere 
 thcv were made Christians nolens voleius. 
 
120 
 
 INDIAN III'NTKU^. 
 
 [18:37. 
 
 ;■ li- 
 
 back (►f'tlio raiigc, behind San Jost'f, tlio San Joachim 
 ])robal)ly flows in that direction, ])rancliiiio- off at the 
 archi])chi,i»'o near the entrance of the Sacramento, 
 bnt certainly not navigable, nor entitled to l)e named 
 as a river in conjunction with its majestic neich- 
 bour. 
 
 IIavin<>' entered the Sacramento, we soon found 
 that it increased inuidth as we advanced, and at our 
 noon station of the second day Mas about one-third 
 of a mile widi'. The marshy land now gave way to 
 firm oround, ])reserving- its level in a most remarkable 
 maimer, succeeded by banks well wooded with oak, 
 planes, ash, willow, chesnut, Avalmit, ])o})lar, and 
 brushwood. Wild graj)es in great al)undanco over- 
 hung the lower trees, clustering to the river, at 
 times completely overpowering the trees on which 
 they climbed, and producing beautiful varieties of 
 tint. All our efforts Avere directed to reach the 
 head of the stream without delay, stopping only at 
 nine a. m., noon, and three p. m., for astronomical 
 stations. As my boat was swift, these short delays 
 afforded rest to the men, and we very soon overtook 
 those in advance. 
 
 About half way u\) we observed Indians on our 
 right, but were soon apprised of their friendship by 
 our guide, who brought their pass from the General 
 A^allejo, " to absent themselves from the mission of 
 San Jose, in order to make treaties with the natives 
 or wild Indians ;" or in other terms, to make trade 
 for [)eltrv, &c. Two of these volunteering to join 
 
 (Is 
 
1837.] 
 
 POINT VKTOUIA. 
 
 121 
 
 (uir jKirty, and li()j)in;^ through tlioin to <>'ot into coin- 
 inunication Avith otliors, by Avlioin we mi'>lit be sup- 
 ])lie(l with venison, &c., we willingly took them into 
 the bouts. 
 
 On the 3(Hh, about four i'. m., we found the deep 
 boats stoi)i)ed at a point where the river forked. 
 Lieutenant Kellett was des[)at('he(l to examine the 
 main stream, but returned without having j)assed 
 out of sight, ro])orting " no water for our lightest 
 boats." The natives also assured us that this was the 
 ford where the hunters cross. 
 
 I landed at " the Fork," which w\as named Point 
 Victoria, and found the natives had but shortly fled, 
 leaving a large stock of acorns,and all their provisions, 
 fires, &c., behhid. 
 
 Every experiment was resorted to in order to get 
 an answer from them. The natives who accom- 
 panied us called loud enougli, and doubtless they 
 were close to us ambushed, but afraid to reply. I 
 therefore attached a knife, some tobacco, and l)eadsj 
 and left them to be picked up when the natives re- 
 turned. On the following morning I perceived 
 them crouching in the grass. One had a metal band 
 on his brow, through which some feathers were 
 l)assed. They were not clothed, and a})peared a 
 wretched-looking race. They disregarded every 
 overture made to them by our two Indians, whom 
 I directed to go full in their front on the opposite 
 bank, (about ])istol-sliot across,) and endeavour to 
 arouse them. With my telescope I could observe 
 
 I 
 
122 
 
 WALLOCKS. 
 
 [18:]7. 
 
 I' 
 
 tlicni vvavo the liand slowly to indicate their tliMiii- 
 cliiiation, and therefore gave \i\) all further hoi)e of 
 friendly communication. licfore quitting, I left 
 other presents ; anc' our interjireting friends were 
 very anxious to exhibit their generosity, by easing 
 them of bags of acorns, Sec, and were nmch discon- 
 certed at my refusal to sanction their exi)loits. They 
 were termed the Wallock tribe by our Indians. 
 
 Our extreme position having been satisfactorily 
 determined by astronomical observations, and tru(» 
 bearing of the Sierras J^olbones, the more arduous 
 part of our duty commenced, viz. the trigonometrical 
 survey from hence to the junction with the Blossom's 
 Survey at the mouth of the San Pablo. 
 
 By these observations Point Victoria was found to 
 be in latitude 88° 40' 47" north, longitude 0° 47' 31"5 
 east of the observatory on Yerba Buena ; traversing 
 in its meanderings about one hundred and fifty 
 miles. 
 
 Throughout the whole extent, from Elk station to 
 the Sacramento mouth, the country is one immense 
 flat, bounded in the distance N.W. by Sierras Dia- 
 volo, W. Sierras Bolbones, and E.N.E. to E.S.E. by 
 the Sierras Nievadas, from whence no doubt this 
 river springs, and rises in proportion to the rains and 
 thaws. Our course lay between banks, varying from 
 twenty to thirty feet above the river-level, appa- 
 rently, from its strata, of differently composed clay 
 and loose earth, produced by some great alluvial 
 deposit. Sand did occur at times, but not a rock or 
 
 M I 
 
I«37.] 
 
 HUGE OAKS. 
 
 12:] 
 
 |)ol)l)le vsiriLMl the sjiinonoss of the Inmks. Tlii'so 
 wore, for tlio most iiart, belted with willow, ash, 
 oak, or plane, (platamis occidentalis,) which hitter, 
 of immense size, overhung the stream, without ap- 
 parently a sufficient hohl in the soil to support them, 
 so much had the force of the stream denuded their 
 roots. 
 
 Within, and at the verge of the banks, oaks of 
 immense size were plentiful. These ai)peared to 
 form a band on each side, about three hundred yards 
 in depth, and within (on the immense park-like 
 extent, which we generally explored when landing 
 for positions) they were to be seen disposed in 
 clumps, which served to relieve the eye, wandering 
 over what might otherwise be described as one level 
 plain or sea of grass. Several of these oaks were 
 examined, and some of the smaller felled. The two 
 most remarkable measured respectively twenty-seven 
 feet and nineteen feet in circumference, at three 
 feet above ground. The latter rose perpendicularly 
 at a (computed) height of sixty feet before ex}>and- 
 ing its branches, and was truly a noble sight. 
 
 All the trees and roots on the banks afford un- 
 equivocal proofs of the power of the flood-streams, 
 the mud line on a tree we measured exhibiting a 
 rise of ten feet above the })resent level, and that of 
 recent date. 
 
 At the period of our examination tlie river was 
 probably at its lowest, and much less than I had an- 
 ticipated in rcgar<l to strength, being at times 
 
124 
 
 ItANtHKUIAS. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 ulinost still water; and yet up to (nir highest jK)si- 
 tioii the Sulpliur iiii^»'lit liavo hvvu warju'd or towed 
 l)y a steamer. L)uriii<>- the rainy season, wliieii 
 coninient'es al)out the middle of November, and 
 terminates al)out the end of February, the river is 
 saijj to overflow its banks, when its imj)etuosity is 
 such that navi<>ation (for the craft of this country I 
 suppose) is then impossible. The annual rains do 
 not, however, of necessity inundate tliese low lands, 
 but in severe seasons, after heavy falls of snow, they 
 produce one immense sea, leavino- oidy the few 
 scattered eminences which art or nature have i»ro- 
 duced, as so many islets or spots of refuse. 
 
 Uj)on these sj)ots the tribes who inhabit these 
 low lands are frequently compelled to seek shelter, 
 l)rincipally, however, on those artificially constructed, 
 — as all were which we examined. They consist 
 merely of a rounded jtile, raised about fifteen feet 
 at the apex above the surrounding level ; the si)ace 
 from which the earth is removed forming a ditch 
 to carry off the superfluous water. 
 
 Our i)ilot termed them Rancherias, (as they also 
 do any i)lace to which the natives resort,) and as- 
 sured us that each was the separate i)roperty of a 
 distinct tribe. None exceed one hundred yards in 
 diameter ; and confined within such a compass, it 
 is fearful to contemplate the ravages which disease 
 must make in an inclement season, or the misery 
 which the survivors nmst endure thus pent up with 
 tlie dead and dying. 
 
1837.] 
 
 ONKK-STIAN-A-TKES. 
 
 V2o 
 
 Lately, fV'viT and a<?u(' carriiMl oW \\\hAv triiics ; 
 and till' spotH tlicy liad thus ho rart'fully ri'ari'd, wrvo 
 but tlu'ir own tombs! On one of tliosi' I liad fixed 
 a station, and on difvcriuo- t<» insert tiie post, tiie 
 parts of a skeleton, with liair perfect, mixed witii 
 aslies, were ttirned np. Tt is, therefore, jirobabh' 
 tliat they iMirn tlieir dead, to destroy tiie animal 
 matter, and prevent eonta<2^ion. This lianeheria was 
 assigned l)y our ])iIot 'an Indian) to the Onee-sliiin- 
 a-tee tril)e; but as he a])peared to name every tribe 
 1)elow Point Victoria (wliero they arc Wallocks) l)y 
 the same appellation, I am induced to attach little 
 importance to his nomenclature, as I have been since 
 informed that they keep to the left bank. 
 
 At a position nearer Point Victoria where no moun<l 
 was ai)parent, many entire skeletons were scattered 
 about, above pfround ; which probably may have rcsultecl 
 from the mortality before silluded to (a few yeai-s 
 since) havino- cut them off before they could reach 
 their Rancheria. My first impression was, that some 
 great b.attle had been fought, and that their dead had 
 been left. But this is not customary, and they would 
 not have been left so complete by birds or beasts of 
 prey. As these skeletons ai)peare(l less disturbed, 
 it is probable that at these seasons of inundation, 
 birds and beasts retire to the mountains or wooded 
 elevations. 
 
 On our passage down, we visited the Indians 
 whom we had found encamped. They were also of 
 
>l-' f 
 
 i-j(; 
 
 (ikOTKSUrK DKKSHKS. 
 
 [I.s:j7- 
 
 tlic Oiur-Hliitn-a-trC' tribe, ami wrrc evidently pre- 
 pared to receive uh in better linniour. 
 
 'I'liey apju'ared as if they had Just returned from 
 plundering the dresHes of a theatre, hv'iu}!; parfifi//// 
 clothed in sliirts, jackets, trousers, &c ; in many 
 instaiu'es weariuiif but half of one of the articles ; 
 the etfect of which, in the case of trousers, was 
 ridiculous in the extreme. Those wh(> could in»t 
 sport these grotesque dresses, were fancifully <leco- 
 rated with those pij^nients which wood fires ])ro- 
 duce, and whi(*h, when nearly dry, was scored off, 
 thus displaying skeletons, tatoos, &c ; some indeed 
 exhibited the new i)attcrn8 of fancy shirts very ad- 
 mirably imitated. The generality, however, were 
 very disgusting. 
 
 The first party were without implements of any 
 kind, and probably came on a visit of ceremony, 
 as the spokesman, who was one of our interpreters 
 before alluded to, came to inform me that he had 
 put some fish on board of the boats. Lower down 
 the river, I visited them at their Rancheria, and 
 there had an o|)portunity of observing them more 
 minutely. Some of the women were clad in cloaks 
 made from the skins of a slate-coloured duck we 
 had not yet seen, (either now or in 1827,) which 
 presented a very neat appearance. All sexes and 
 ages were collected, and all busily employed, — the 
 women [)ounding and making acorn-bread, boiling 
 huge horse-chesnuts, &c, the men forming arrows. 
 
18^7.] 
 
 IIAniTS UK INDIAN'S. 
 
 \'27 
 
 Tliu only uppurciit tornuitioii of a liiit luMicatli tlic 
 trt'os, wliicli were tlicir «mly shelter from the sun. 
 was 11 kind of purtition formed of loldin^^ mats. 
 Some hore the marks of tatoo ; hut this vvjih not 
 t'ommon, and was prohahly a mission taste. 
 
 Their general appearance was that of I'xtreme 
 misery and filthincss; and nuich as I wished to see 
 the pompletion of one of their arrows then in pro- 
 gress, I was glad to hreathe the open air, and free 
 myself from such company. Some of our party 
 induced the hunting set t<» exhibit their skill with 
 the bow; but they were far from expert. Their 
 implements were but few, and of the sim|)k'st kind, 
 — similar, indeed, to those observed at I'oint Victoria, 
 and probably constructed on the spot, to prevent the 
 labour of conveyance. 
 
 They are migratory, and were generally traced 
 by us to have fixt'd their temp«)rary sojcmrn under 
 a horse-chesnut, or in the immediate vicinity of 
 acorn grounds. It is probable that they continut* 
 travelling and amassing their stock until winter, 
 and then betake themselves to the high grounds or 
 the llancherias. As habit is second nature, and all 
 these tribes, including all I have seen at the mis- 
 sions, a]ii)ear of the most degraded class, it is pro- 
 bable that they i)refer the latter, (" Degustibus, &c.,) 
 where possibly their friends the ducks and geese, 
 visit them occasionally. Possibly, also, the deer may 
 drop in on them. But the chances are miserably 
 poor, in case of inundation. 
 
u 
 
 
 ! 
 
 ; I 
 
 , i 
 
 I 
 i . . 
 
 I ■ I 
 
 1) ;■!!. 
 
 p;l 
 
 12» 
 
 DECREASE OF TRIBES. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 
 The river abounds in fish and muscles, wliich 
 they take in great qufintity ; but I suspect they are 
 not sufficiently skilful to capture those of larger 
 dimensions, which we noticed incessantly leaj)ing ; 
 probably sturgeon, or a fish resembling it very 
 closely. 
 
 Elk and deer were tolerably plentiful , the former 
 are easily taken, and the profusion of antlers found 
 at the Rancherias prove their capture in fair quan- 
 tity. 
 
 The pilot, a native, converted and retained by the 
 mission, informed us that the banks throughout our 
 whole route were once thickly studded with these 
 Rancherias, and with natives to possess them. They 
 are now nearly extinct, and individuals of the tribes 
 are only to be found in the mission. 
 
 Let not theorists too eagerly advance the opinion, 
 that the introduction of foreigners depopulates whole 
 tracts. A higher power has operated here. 
 
 It is probable that the hunters and Delawares 
 which frequent these grounds, may have in some 
 measure caused them to shift their ground. It is 
 also known that they have most valorously con- 
 tended even against the rifle, and suffered slaughter 
 rather than retreat, generally severely and fatally 
 wounding their adversaries. These are traditions. 
 Of the mortal sickness which scourged the Columbia 
 and its tribes, as far south as the Colorado in one year, 
 and even penetrated to the rocky mountains, we have 
 the most perfect evidence- The later visitation of 
 
1837.] 
 
 ANIMALS. 
 
 12i) 
 
 awares 
 some 
 It is 
 coii- 
 
 tlie small-pox probably was communicated by an 
 American or Canadian. 
 
 The Sacramento was once famed for its beaver 
 and land-otter. They are not scarce at present, but 
 our mission Indians were anxious to induce us to 
 become purchasers of furs which would certainly be 
 termed refuse to the northward. 
 
 The climate by day was mild, ranging from 41° to 
 77^ On one occasion on shore at night it fell as 
 low as 30". The water ranjjed from 53° to 50°. 
 Slight rain was experienced on two days, but the 
 weather generally m as extremely fine. 
 
 Our collection was enriched by some very beauti- 
 ful ducks, owls, hawks, and other birds, which 
 abounded on the banks. Of four-footed animals few 
 were killed. Cuyote or jackal-fox, racoon, land- 
 otter, weasel, and squirrel, were obtained. I fired 
 twice at small tigers or tiger-cats, but they wei-e 
 too thickly clad for small shot to make any ini]>res- 
 sion. The party succeeded in taking an elk and a 
 deer, and killing a great quantity of wild geese. 
 
 Near the mouth of the river the soil is entirely 
 peaty ; so much so, that it was very diflScult to use 
 the artificial horizon, particularly on the ebb or 
 flood-tides. The spring-tides overflow all the lower 
 lands, wliich are well stored with long flag L,!ass, and 
 rushes of great size, of which latter the Uii.ives con- 
 struct their balsas. The ground does not assume a 
 substantial bearing until the flood is overcome by 
 the fresh water; and tliere the soil is of tlie finest 
 
 VOL. I. K 
 
!l, 
 
 •*li--»- 
 
 I i 
 
 130 
 
 VEGETATION. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 I! f 
 
 i I 
 
 ' I 
 
 kind. Roses, arbutus, and other small shrubs flourish 
 luxuriantly, and wiUl grain produces and re-sows 
 itself, affording perpetual pasturage to the deer, &c. 
 During the dry season the natives Imrn this down, 
 and probaljly by such means destroy many oak 
 ])lantations which otherwise would flourish. 
 
 The oak of California does not bear a high cha- 
 racter, although it is the same as that used generally 
 on the eastern coast of America, about the same 
 parallel. 
 
 The ash is excellent, but does not attain any great 
 size. Wild grapes generally prefer it, and the varied 
 colours of the dark-green leaves, added to the brown 
 tints of the decaying leaves of the vine, produce, 
 on rounding the different bends of the river, very 
 beautiful contrasts at this season. Our friend the 
 plane, however, will not be eclipsed. 
 
 The timber of this tree is solid, and does not 
 swim ; when green it seasons well, and I found it 
 made good gunwales and timbers for light boats. 
 Laurel, varieties of oak, sumach, pine, &c., we 
 noticed ; also the bulbous root termed ammoles 
 by the Spaniards, and generally used as a detergent 
 in washing. It is roasted, and used by the natives as 
 food. It has a sweetish taste. 
 
 The grapes were abundant and well-tasted, but 
 small in size and large in seed, therefore not very 
 great luxuries. Some of the acorns were as sweet 
 as chesnuts. The fruits of the hiccory and walnut 
 we occasionally met with, and not having better, we 
 
1837. 
 
 1837.] 
 
 WANT PROVISIONS. 
 
 131 
 
 ourisli 
 c-sows 
 er, &c. 
 down, 
 ly oalc 
 
 (vh cha- 
 jnerally 
 e same 
 
 ny great 
 lc varied 
 ic brown 
 produce, 
 ^er, very 
 lend the 
 
 does not 
 found it 
 
 lilt boats. 
 
 &c., we 
 
 ammoles 
 
 etergent 
 
 natives as 
 
 Isted, but 
 
 not very 
 
 as sweet 
 
 Id walnut 
 
 letter, we 
 
 tliought them excellent ; but the shells being very 
 thick, and the fruit small, they were as little prized 
 as the grapes. 
 
 About twenty miles above the Starling's anchorage 
 we found the water perfectly sweet ; we therefore 
 became not only relieved of the weight of this ne- 
 cessary article, but were enabled to luxuriate in 
 draughts of the purest we had tasted for many 
 weary months. To seamen such a luxury seldcmi 
 occurs, and it is one a landsman can scarcely apjire- 
 ciate. I suspect, however, that the waters of the 
 Sacramento would obtain their preference over all 
 others. 
 
 It was otherwise, however, with solid provision. 
 Of this we very soon fell short ; and the nature of 
 our duties prevented our seeking assistance with our 
 guns. Twice we were compelled to despatch a boat 
 for fresh supplies, and on each occasion were re- 
 duced to a much lower ebb than was either con- 
 venient or pleasant. Yet all was cheerfully sub- 
 mitted to, with the exception of one or two l)ad 
 characters, who were sent to luxuriate on board the 
 ship, as a punishment. They very soon wished 
 themselves on the bad fare, as they termed it. 
 
 One boat had hardly quitted us before she fell in 
 with a deer bathing, and to prevent the possibility 
 of losing a regale, they put about ten balls into his 
 head. They did not bring him back to us; time 
 was too precious. They killed an elk near the 
 
 K 2 
 
 a 
 
132 
 
 REJOIN STARLING. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 /! 
 
 < 
 
 St.irlin**-, but by the blow of an oar. Of him we 
 tasted, but it was coarse meat. 
 
 Tile soil on the banks is generally a loose mix- 
 ture of sand and clay, entirely alluvial. The bottom 
 varies, from very loose mud to stiff red clay, and oc- 
 casionally a very quick sand. Two varieties of my- 
 tilus and some univalves were obtained. 
 
 As we neared the actual mouth of the Sacramento, 
 we were rather more minute in our examination of the 
 creeks, but found nothing to change in our former 
 opinions. On the 18th November we sighted the 
 Starling, and having carried the triangulation up to 
 her nearest position, before sunset had the satisfaction, 
 after twenty-three days confinement in the boats, of 
 again luxuriating in a wholesome bed. As the work 
 of each day was entirely completed on paper before 
 we retired to rest, (sometimes at four a. m.) the 
 severe part of our labours was here ended. 
 
 It was my intention to have waited a couple of 
 days at this position, and afforded the party amuse- 
 ment in shooting geese, ducks, elk, and deer, which 
 were in great abundance. But as the Starling's 
 provisions had been forwarded to us, and we had 
 barely sufficient to carry us down, this was necessa- 
 rily abandoned; although in the course of our 
 operations we were not idle at this work, parti- 
 cularly about sunset ; generally bagging our eight or 
 ten heavy geese for the ensuing day. On one 
 excursion the assistant-surgeon of the Starling killed 
 
1837.] 
 
 INLAND NAVIG\TION. 
 
 oo 
 
 forty-eight geese and eight (hicks ; at aiiotiier 
 several elk and deer were wounded ; and when our 
 ammunition was expended, a whole herd of elk 
 passed me within ten yards. 
 
 Having completed our connexion with the Blos- 
 som's Survey up to Yerba Buena, we reached the; 
 Sulphur on the 24th November ; having been absent 
 altogether on this interesting l)ut harassing service 
 thirty-one days. 
 
 As far as navigation is concerned, the Sacramento 
 affords every facility for small craft as high up as the 
 " Fork ;" but I cannot at present i)erceive any ad- 
 vantage to be derived from taking large vessels 
 above the Starling's position, or even above the 
 creek at the mouth of the Estrecho Karquiues, 
 which communicates with the mission of San Jose, 
 and which, until settlements are made above, will 
 be the extent of traffic, excepting for timber. 
 
 Taking into consideration the whole port of San 
 Francisco, the Sacramento, and minor streams, there 
 is immense field for capital, if the government 
 could protect its citizens or those inclined to reside. 
 At this moment (December, 1837) they are reduced 
 to almost their extreme gasp; harassed by their 
 own servants (who are natives) deserting and carry- 
 ing off their property ; threatened by the Delawares, 
 who have piratically ranged the country, taking 
 away horses and cattle ; disturbed by their late 
 declaration and recantation of independence; they 
 sadly want the interposition of some powerful friend 
 
134 
 
 (5LOOMY PROSPKCTS. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 ]' ' ■«., 
 
 » .1 
 
 ' i :i' 
 
 
 to rescue them. To Great Britain their hopes an5 
 directed ; wliy, I cannot learn, but I am mucli in- 
 clined to think that it is rather from a jjusillanimous 
 fear, and want of energy to stand by each other and 
 expel their common enemies, than from any friendly 
 feclini^ to Great Britain. 
 
 Besides this, they look with some apprehension 
 upon a ])()wer daily increasing* in importance — an 
 organised independent band of deserters fnmi Ame- 
 rican and Englisli whalers, who prefer a roving 
 careless life on horseback, and certainty of food 
 without labour, to the customary hardships of their 
 vocation. These men, headed l)y one or two noted 
 daring characters now amongst them, will, whenever 
 it suits their purpose, dictate their own tt^rms and 
 set all law at defiance. It is distressing to witness 
 the downfall of this splendid port, all the forts in 
 ruins, not even a signal-gun mounted ! Such are 
 the blessings of revolution ! 
 
 During my absence, the seijeant and corporal of 
 marines, carpenter's mate, and several men and boys, 
 iiad deserted ; seduced, it is supposed, by promises 
 of independence, high pay, promotion, &c. All our 
 efforts to trace them were unavailing. We had 
 strong suspicions that they were concealed by a 
 person heading the mountain gang, (a discharged 
 midshipman,) particularly as the Serjeant had been 
 his shipmate before, and he had visited the ship about 
 that period. 
 
 Nothing further detaining us here, we embarked 
 
18537.] 
 
 MONTEllEV. 
 
 135 
 
 the observatory ; and on tlie 3()tli November took 
 our departure for Monterey, wliero we arrived on 
 the 2nd Decein])er. Here I found my old friend, 
 Mr. Jones, (the American consul to the Sandwich 
 Islands,) who had visited the coast on a matrimonial 
 expedition. As he had just purchased the wreck of 
 an American whaler, which had been <lriven on the 
 beach, a week since, during* a heavy gale, we were 
 fortunate enough to obtain from liim a very season- 
 able su[)ply of beef, pork, flour, and biscuits; of 
 course at a pretty high price. The French frigate, 
 La Venus, our old consort at the Sandwich Islands, 
 had quitted but a few days before, and proceeded to 
 San Bias. 
 
 No one should calculate on supplies beyond tliose 
 immediately connected with present consumption, 
 in any port of California. Bullocks, sheep, and 
 vegetables, (particularly potatoes,) with a few fowls 
 and fruit, are all that can be looked for, and these 
 are of moderate price. All these are much inferior 
 in quality, and fruit is particularly scarce since the 
 destruction of the missions. At San Francisco fine 
 fat bullocks, weighing from four to five hundred 
 pounds, hide included, were purchased at five dollars 
 each, sheep two dollars. 
 
 I ym perfectly satisfied that beef could be as well 
 cured here on the farms, if proper precautions and 
 good materials were used, as in other parts of the 
 world. Individually I have proved it to the extent 
 of one bullock. I think it would kee]» sound for 
 
13G 
 
 STATK OF DKFFA'C i;s. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 J ; H 
 
 I ■ :i 
 
 \H 
 
 J' '! 
 
 two years; but from the wild state of tlie animals when 
 (irnrfqt'tl to the port, the blood is too much excited to 
 allow of fair trial. IJeef in these climates recjuires 
 more su<^ar and nitre than in colder regions. 
 
 Monterey I found as nmch increased as San 
 Francisco had fallen into ruin. It was still, lunv- 
 ever, very miserable, and wanting* in the military 
 air of W'27. The adobe or mud-brick battery 
 remained, and had been newly bedaubed during 
 the late ebullition of indei)endence. There were 
 guns it is true, (about seven,) but they were in a 
 state infinitely more dangerous to those using them, 
 than to those ay-ainst whom tliev miirht have been 
 used. An Englishman was found possessing sufli- 
 cient courage to fire oiw at the crisis of the revo- 
 lution. That gun det ided the question ! 
 
 Yet I find in the restrictions enjoined on poor 
 Douglas that he was in honour bound "to desist 
 from entering or takiny plans of the fortif cations /" 
 which consisted of a mud wall of three sides, open 
 in the rear, with breastwork about three feet in 
 height ; with rotten platforms for seven guns, the 
 discharge of which would annihilate their remains 
 of carriages. The muzzles of one or two brass 
 twenty-four pounders, very old and very handsome, 
 are absent, and their vents might, upon an emergency, 
 be used to load, provided it became necessary to 
 make a second effort to discharge the shot, as I have 
 once witnessed. The visit of La Venus had strij)j)ed 
 the place of most of the supi)lies of which we stood 
 in need. 
 
1837.] 
 
 FIU'ITLKSS SKAUCII. 
 
 1:17 
 
 rcvo- 
 
 Tlio r^ovenior was in daily expectation of beinpf 
 Hupersedcd by a Mexican appointment; but it was 
 not (fuite certain that lie would resin;n liis honours 
 without giving some trouble. The atliiirs of Cali- 
 fornia were not yet finally arranged. Commissioners 
 had gone to Mexico, \ia Acapulco, in order to come 
 to some definitive arrangement. 
 
 On the Gth December we quitted Monterey for 
 San Bias, whither I had already desj)atclied the 
 Starling to obtain our lettci . ; the distance to Tepic, 
 where our vice-consul, Mr. Baron, resides, causing a 
 <lelay of forty-eight hours. 
 
 A very severe bilious fever confined me to my 
 cot for some days, and prevented my examining the 
 island of Guadalupe, and searching for others said to 
 exist. 
 
 On the 11th December we passed close to Guada- 
 lupe, and thence explored a degree on the ])arallel 
 where an island had been lately reported, but 
 without success, thence southerly, to fall into the 
 parallel of Shelvoes, Shelvocke's, or Shovel Island ; 
 steering easterly towards Cape San Lucas, until 1 
 had sufficiently determined its non-existence within 
 thirty miles east or west of its assigned i)osition. 
 
 The Venus also went over the same ground on 
 nearly the same errand, and with like success. 
 
 On the IGth December we passed Cape San 
 Lucas within about half a mile of the rocks, looking 
 into the bay preparatory to a future examination, 
 and passed on for Tres Marias, off which Me jter- 
 ceived the Starling on the ISth of December. 
 
 \\ 
 
 
138 
 
 TRES MARIAS. 
 
 [18U7. 
 
 I . 
 
 ilV-l 
 
 ! ',1 
 
 t' i 
 
 On tlio day following we lunded on tlio NoitluTn 
 Mariii, iind obtained 8i<!^htH ; bnt disliivin"- the an- 
 chorage, stood away and anchored ott' the centre of 
 George Island, whore we procured wood, surveyed 
 the bay, and fixed its position. We then quitt(!d 
 for San Bias. 
 
 There is nothing inviting on either of the Marias. 
 In the rainy season water may flow, but from what 
 I witnessed of the channels through which it nuist 
 pass, thoy should be well cleansed by Hoods before it 
 would be fit for consumption. What remained in 
 the natural tanks was sulphureous ; brackish, although 
 far above the influence of the sea ; and formed a 
 strong infusion of decayed leaves. 
 
 By the tracks observed, turtle appeared to have 
 visited the island lately, but none were seen or 
 taken. Wood is plentiful, particularly a species of 
 lignum vita;. Cedar of the coarse s[)ecies used for 
 canoes we met with, but none of fine grain. 
 
 Firs are ])robably in the mountains, as I found a 
 cone in one of the water-courses. The other trees 
 are similar to those found at San Bias. 
 
 The soil is chiefly composed of a sandy mud, 
 similar to that discharged from volcanoes, and which 
 in some cases assists in forming an amygdaloidal 
 stratum, of which the cliffs and water-courses, es- 
 pecially on the northern island, are chiefly com- 
 posed. 
 
 On George's Island the water-courses were of this 
 nature, 'vith large boulders of greenstone. On the 
 eastern point a small delta of low land occurs, which 
 
 I 
 
1«37.] 
 
 Ai:UlVK AT HAN ULAS. 
 
 l:U) 
 
 lias roral sjiiul for its suhstmtuni, skimuMl ovor with 
 a covoriiifjf of mud and soil, on wliicii raniv grass 
 luxuriates. 
 
 Fisli a|)iH'ar to bo nuMiorous, jiarticularly sharks ; 
 and the dead sliells on the beach, inclndino- almost 
 ovL'ry known s|)eeies in these seas, hold out a pros- 
 pect of employment tor tlu; eoneholo.4ist. 
 
 IJut the ca])rieious character of the ocean about 
 these islands renders visits at any time hazardous, as 
 a few moments may imprison the naturalist for 
 weeks. Ten years since, nearly to a day, 1 found 
 landing on any }»art of these shores imi>racticable, 
 although the weather i)reviously bad been fine. 
 
 Here Vancouver tried ineflectually for water, 
 and I wan induced, by the assertion of a master of 
 a vessel belonging to San Bias, " that wells were 
 sunk, and good water conveniently to be had," to 
 make this examination. It is not im[)robable that 
 if wells were sunk, water could be obtained ; but is 
 the result worth the trouble or risk ? 
 
 On the 20th of December we anchored off San 
 Bias, and found no letters; that dreadful damj)er 
 after long-cherished expectation, and particularly on 
 such a service as the present, where year after year 
 fate may send them without a chance of reaching 
 us. 
 
 Ill 
 
M 
 
 
 • V 
 
 1 ^'^ 
 
 Li r: 
 
CIIAl'TKIl VT. 
 
 Official news of the nocpssioii of Quoon Victorin — Arrival of 
 Vciiiis — Scurvy — Starling despatched to Panama for letters — 
 Quit San IJlas — Arrive at Acapulco — Knterinj;; by Boca Cliica 
 — Interview with the Governor — Erect observatory — FiXaniine 
 the port — Capacity — Best berth — Watcriiig place — Present 
 state of trade — Merchants deserting the city in consecpienee of 
 custom-house regulations — Eartlupiakes from 1/3'J to present 
 date — Fort San ('arlos not affected by them — Period of rainy 
 season — Distance from Mexico — Imports, exports, and general 
 trade — Population and diseases — Military force — Execution of 
 two murderers — Unsafe at night — Quit Acapulco — Touch at 
 Guatulco, and fix j)osition of Morro Ayuca — Cross Gulf of 
 Tehuantepec — Views of volcanic j)eaks — Call at So>?-onati and 
 Libertad — Volcano of Isalco active — Anchor at Ilcalejo. 
 
142 
 
 ARRIVAL OF VENUS. 
 
 [1837. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 By the kindness of my excellent friend, Mr. 
 Barron, a large i)acket of newspapers, affording us 
 the official intelligence of the accession of our 
 Maiden Queen, Victoria, was immediately on our 
 arrival despatched to us, with dates to September. 
 
 On the 21st of December the Venus arrived from 
 Mazatlan, when we had the satisfaction of renew, 
 ing our acquaintance with our French friends. I 
 found from Captain du Petit Thenars, that he had 
 been successful in his examination of the coast of 
 California, and had surveyed the Bay of Magdalena, 
 rounded Cape San Lucas, and proceeded to Mazat- 
 lan in the vain hope of obtaining supplies. Here 
 he was equally unsuccessful, excepting in flour, of 
 which he obtained forty barrels at a very exorbitant 
 price. Many of his crew being ill with scurvy, 
 which I believe first made its ajipearance at Kamts- 
 chatka, he determined on proceeding immediately 
 to Acapulco, and landing them until recovered, and 
 
 t ; ■• 
 
 i it 
 
1838.] 
 
 APPROACH AC'APULt'O. 
 
 143 
 
 thence proceedino* on to Callao or Valparaiso for 
 provisions, of which he stood much in need. Wine 
 in particular he had not been able to obtain, nor 
 had we at this time spirits for our crew. The 
 duties here on imports are so exorbitant, that they 
 amount almost to an entire ])rohibition. At Cali- 
 fornia sixty dollars were demanded for fifteen im- 
 perial gallons of indifferent rum, and no doubt at 
 San Bias or Acapulco not under twenty ..ould have 
 been asked. 
 
 On the 28th of December I despatched the Star- 
 ling to Panama, to obtain any letters, officers, or 
 despatches which might arrive for us, and to rejoin 
 us at our rendezvous, Realejo. We remained 
 until the 5th of January for the last mail, but no- 
 thing arriving for the Sulphur, we bore away for 
 Acapulco. Unfortunately we were drifted outside 
 the land and sea breeze limits, and did not reacii 
 it until the evening of the 12th of January. 
 
 We made the high paps of Coyuca to the west- 
 ward of Acapulco, but I cannot persuade myself 
 that they are good landmarks for making the port. 
 In the offing they may be useful if not obscured. 
 
 Acapulco may be approached from the southward 
 or westward, by keeping the western cone open of 
 the land, which will lead up to the Boca Chica en- 
 trance, or until Acapulco port is so close under the 
 lee, that no further marks are necessary. There is 
 not any hidden danger in the entrance to Acapulco. 
 Keep a moderate distance from either shore, five 
 
i ' 
 
 H 
 
 / ! 
 
 ill 
 
 
 1 
 
 h : 
 
 . 
 
 |:' 
 
 J 
 
 .,, :. 
 
 { 
 
 i; t 
 
 ■ 
 
 j ; i' 
 
 1i 
 
 ! 1 
 
 ! 
 
 1 
 
 'ii 
 
 144 
 
 VISIT THE GOVERNOR. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 fatlioms will bo found alongside all the rocks, and 
 twenty-five to thirty in mid-channel. Round Point 
 Grifo sharp, rather than stand over to San Lorenzo, 
 as the wind, generally westerly, heads on that 
 shore. If working, tack when the rocks on the 
 south point of Town Bay show in the gap. 
 
 The two best berths are off the rocks alluded to ; 
 that outside is preferable, but in either case let the 
 outer rock bear W.S.W. or W.N.W., so that a haw- 
 ser fast to the rock may keep your broadside to land 
 or sea breezes, and prevent a foul anchor. 
 
 The breeze barely carried us to the Boca Chica by 
 sunset, which made me determine on taking that 
 channel in preference to the chances of calm or 
 other delay by rounding the island. Fortunately 
 we succeeded in rounding Point Grifo by dark, and 
 beat up to our anchorage before eight, passing under 
 the stern of our old friend Venus, who kindly sent 
 immediate offers of any aid we might require. 
 
 On calling upon Captain Thenars, I found he had 
 also been tantalized by calms, had seen the Starling 
 off the port, and had only been four days before 
 us. 
 
 On the following morning I waited on the Go- 
 vernor, who in the most civil manner offered me 
 every facility in erecting the observatory, or in any 
 other matter where his services could be available. 
 He appears to be a complete military character, 
 preserves strict discipline, and is much esteemed. 
 
 The Venus, after some trifling difficulties with 
 
 1 I' il 
 
1838.] 
 
 exci:llf:xt TiAunoru. 
 
 145 
 
 the authorities, landed her invalids, and established 
 an hospital in a house hircMl for that purpose. 
 Her astronomical and other observations were 
 conducted at the south extremity of the town beach, 
 on a spot inaccessible to land or sea l»reeze. 
 
 During our stay we re-surveyed the port, and 
 corrected several erroi-s which were said to exist, 
 particularly one of three and a half fathoms in the 
 ftiirway ; upon Avhich, however, eight and a half were 
 found by the load. It must therefore be an error in 
 figure. 
 
 The harbour of Acapulco has long been reckoned, 
 for its size, one of the most complete in the world. 
 It affords sheltered land-locked anchorage of sixteen 
 fathoms and under, in a surface of one mile square ; 
 which, allowing for moorings, would, at half a cable 
 range, or one cable asunder, accommodate one hun- 
 dred sail of vessels, even of the line. The bottom 
 is sandy at its surface, but clayey beneath, and holds 
 well. 
 
 It would naturally be inferred that, surrounded 
 on its north and east sides by mountains ranging 
 from two thousand, to two thousand seven hundred 
 feet, and by others of three to five hundred feet on 
 the west, the breeze would scarcely be felt, and the 
 heat be intolerable. This is confined to the town 
 limits ; at our observatory, and at the port, San Carlos, 
 we enjoyed a constant breeze. 
 
 In all harbours there may be ol)jectioiiable l)erths, 
 but in that of Acapulco, if care be taken to keep in 
 
 VOL. I. L 
 
I'.i ! 
 
 ii 
 
 4! 
 
 M 
 
 P ||t^' j! 
 
 Ii 
 
 
 140 
 
 MAUKKT. 
 
 [183.S. 
 
 the lino of what I liavo dcsio'iiatcd the " west j>'a|>" 
 or neck of the poiiiiisiila, open of the south point 
 of the town bay, both kind and sea breezes will b(^ 
 felt in their full streugtli, and free from c.iuses 
 whicli would heat them before entering the ]iort ; 
 the neek beinp;' but a few fe^'t above the sea-level. 
 
 Water of good quality was found at several points 
 between the fort and Obispo roek; but the two best 
 streams are between the fort and San Lorenzo. 
 
 The market, owing to the decay of the respect- 
 able portion of its inhabitants, is but indifferently 
 supplied, but fowls, fruit, and vegetables, are readily 
 obtained. The very great mistake committed in 
 1827, by the expulsion of the old Si)aniar(ls, has 
 ruined every port on this side of Mexico, and the 
 vexatious system of carrying into effect the Custom 
 House regulations will utterly ruin its commerce, if 
 this has not been already achieved. 
 
 Only two Euroi)ean residents remain, (Germans,) 
 and a few months will in all probability induce them 
 to select some other port tmdcr the same laws, but 
 more justly and favourably administered. During 
 our visit, a French brig from Lima actually entered 
 the port, and, much to the chagrin of the officials, 
 w4io were contemplating their " pickings," without 
 a moment's delay tacked and put to sea, — her con- 
 signees having ordered her to San Bias, where pro- 
 ceedings are less vexatious. She was consigned to 
 merchants in Mexico, and as the instructions came 
 from Mexico, in anticipation of her arrival, they 
 
 
1838.] 
 
 socn-yrv. 
 
 147 
 
 must bo Jiwaro in tliat city of tlio state of aHhiis 
 lierc. The oirrumstanco a))poaiv(l to attord iiiattiT 
 of ffivat aniuseiiient to tlio inerchaiits, and 1 suspoct 
 that tlie presence of the Venus saved a little vexa- 
 tious conduct, liad a l)oat from tlie autliorities reached 
 lier. 
 
 Acapulco from its earliest days has l)een famed 
 as the resort of the galleons from Manilla, — th(^ 
 last, I believe, having entered in 1793 — 4. This, 
 of course, caused many wealthy Spaniards to settle 
 as agents for houses in Mexico, and until the edict 
 in 1827, requiring all old Spaniards to (juit the 
 territory, which was carried into effect in a truly 
 bandit style by M ontesdeosca, it continued to flourish. 
 
 That edict, like a blight, annihilated the germs 
 of high breeding; the Spaniards fled, half castes 
 ste]i]ied in to represent society, and decay has fol- 
 lowed with rapid strides, until the i)lace is now merely 
 a wreck of its former opulence. Nature, indeed, 
 has not stood idly by, l)ut has added her full share 
 of miseries, as a further inducement to desert this 
 almost doomed city. 
 
 As far back as the year 1732 earth(piakes of 
 uncommon force have continued to afflict this city. 
 It is recorded that on the 25tli of February of that 
 year a very heavy earthquake destroyed nearly the 
 whole town: the sea rose to a great height, covering 
 the Plaza (or about ten feet perpendicular ;) the suc- 
 cessive risings, after receding, recurring slowly nt 
 the periods of the seviu-al shocks. 
 
 L 2 
 
1 
 
 w 
 
 \ 
 
 M 
 
 i I 
 
 ii 
 
 i;:^ 
 
 ii 
 
 148 
 
 KARTIIQUAKKS. 
 
 [1838 
 
 Oil tlio 17tli of Au*^iist, 17r)4, Jinotlior oiirtli- 
 quake ocourrtMl, ruiniiifr thv grvntvv part of tlio 
 town. On this occasion the risin^^ of the soa was 
 attended with more violence ; the Plaza was again 
 covered. 
 
 On the 21 st of April, 1 77G, an earthquake occurred 
 which destroyed many houses. 
 
 On the 14tli of March, 1787, the whole town was 
 ruined. The sea retired, leavinf^ the rocks of the 
 Piinta Manzanilla (in the town bay) dry. The 
 Pliillip])ine, Nao, was anchored at the time in the 
 ])ort, and was left in four fathomt; before the tide 
 returned, — showing a fall of thirty-six feet. 
 
 No earthquake of consequence is recorded after- 
 wards until that of the 2nd of May, 1820. This 
 earthquake lasted several days, and entirely destroyed 
 the place. The steeple of San Francisco ficll on 
 this occasion, and the church was rent ; the sea 
 retired still further than in 1787, and returned in 
 two hours, rising up to the church door ; the rise 
 and fall taking place gently. At the ultimate 
 recession the sand was found to have accumulated 
 so as to nearly cover the pier, (five or six feet,) 1)y 
 which upwards of twenty varas of land was gained 
 at the beach. 
 
 On the 10th of March, 1833, about ten o'clock 
 at night, a heavy earthquake was experienced. The 
 sea retired forty feet, and gently resumed its former 
 level. This was felt at Mexico at precisely the 
 same hour, lasting there about one minute and a 
 
1838.] 
 
 KARTIIQUAKES. 
 
 141) 
 
 halij tlio motion thero bein<; utKlnlatorj/, but at Aca- 
 j)ulco ti'cpidatorij. 
 
 On March 13tli, 1834, another shock is roconUMl ; 
 the sea receded fifty varas, and several buildings 
 were destroyed. 
 
 On the Cth of January, 1835, at six in the 
 morning, a very severe carthcjuake was felt, lasting 
 upwards of two minutes ; motion trcpidatory, the 
 shocks recurring every thirty hours f«?r u})vvards of 
 a month. This, like that of 1833, was felt in 
 Mexico. 
 
 On the 9th of August, 1837, a heavy shock was 
 felt, trepidatory, recurring at thirty hours for nearly 
 three weeks. It was felt slightly at Mexico. 
 
 On the 18th of October, 1837, at four p. m. a 
 heavy earthquake occurred, which lasted until the 
 22nd. During this interval of four days the earth 
 trembled continuously; one hundred separate shocks 
 were counted between four p. m. 18tli, and ten p. m. 
 22nd. During this interval five very severe shocks 
 occurred, four p. m. 18th, ten p. m. 19th, midnight 
 19th, four p. M. 20th, four p. m. 21st. That at mid- 
 night on the 21st was terrific ; had it lasted a few 
 seconds longer, rocks would undoubtedly have been 
 rent asunder. Following this earthquake, for six 
 weeks continuously, periodical heavy shocks were 
 experienced, at ten a. m., ten and twelve p. m., and 
 at dawn. At Mexico the shocks wore severely felt 
 at the same instants, on the 1 8th and 1 9tli. 
 
 In conclusion, da'ibj " temOlor.s " have occurred since 
 
1 r>() 
 
 l>ILAI'll>.\'nuNS. 
 
 [1S3S. 
 
 the cartliqiiJiki' of iSiJO. lUu the season wiicii tiie 
 lu'jiviost shocks occur is between March and 
 .lunc. 
 
 The above is extracted from notes made by a 
 conjmissary resident for many years, and constantly 
 holdinnc ottice under the govennnent of all j)arties. 
 
 Under the dread of sucli visitations and with 
 daily warninp^s that "all is not at rest," who can be 
 surprised at the desertion of Aca|)u!co 't The whole 
 town at this moment bears glariuf*' |)roof of a recent 
 concussion. Not a ir/io/r /lonsi' wimuu^. The churches 
 are demolished; one cha])ei (La Solidad) alone 
 remains, where mass is performed ; but even this is 
 rent, and is totterini>-. 
 
 i>y reason of such lia))ilitles, houses are never 
 built above the oromid floor. Those of the lower 
 orders are most sensibly constructed, of cane thatched. 
 Those of the better class, inclndin<if the authorities, 
 are of adobes, formetl of mud and straw, generally 
 from thi'ee to four feet in thickness, in the walls. 
 The latter are generally tiled, to attbrd ventilation, and 
 avoid insects, which are numerous and troublesome. 
 
 Pride alone must induce them to construct these 
 nnid habitalious, for with less expense a frame of 
 cane covered with tiles would be infinitely preferable. 
 
 It is rather a remarkable fact that, throughout the 
 whole of these shocks, the rock-built castle of San 
 Diego (or San Carlos) has experienced but slight 
 damage. 
 
 1 caused very minute in<iuliy to be made, in order 
 
hs3S.] 
 
 KAINV SKASON. 
 
 i:>i 
 
 to usc(M'tiiiii (o senile dcurrt' of (•('Hiiintv wlictlu'r smv 
 of the solid onniitc rocks liiul altered tlieir iiei<iiit 
 siliove the level. Tlie only sjitistiictorv re|tiy tliiit t 
 could obtiiiii WHS, That fnmi time ininieiiioiiiil tlu^ 
 rock wo made ttist to iiifiintiiiiied its present position, 
 and no clian<^e of outer soundings iiad been observed. 
 Hi;^li water flows to a lude in that rock, and up to a 
 crown well marked. 
 
 Tile rainy season is also another ••reat drawback, 
 and is felt here severely. It commem'es about the 
 middle or end of J uiv, and continues until the end 
 of October. ()\vin<jf to the immediate vicinity of a 
 very lofty chain overlookin<>- the town, (one (►f 2,790 
 fe(>t) the fall is heavy, and almost incessant. It has 
 been asserted that in ISIJJ the rain ;;auo'e fre(|uently 
 indicated twenty-ei<»ht inches in twenty-four hours. 
 During this period the iiiliabitants are compelled to 
 use every precaution to keep their houses dry, i)ar- 
 ticularly under foot : a ne<j^lect of this is sujijiosed 
 to produce fever. The heat durin*^ this period is 
 excessively oppressive, especially in May, when the 
 temperature seldom falls below OS. Water then 
 becomes scarce, and towards the end of the dry 
 season the ponds run dry, and wells are their only 
 resource. 
 
 Formerly Acapulco was considered as the main 
 outlet from Mexico on this side ; but San Bias is now 
 ) (referred. The distance from hence is one hundred and 
 four Spanish leagues, and the journey up is generally 
 ])erfornied in eight days. The exports consist chieHy 
 
<l 
 
 11 
 
 'I 
 
 !::i 
 
 I , 
 
 |.:i 
 
 I 
 
 1;V2 
 
 DUKSS. 
 
 [\H'^H. 
 
 ofrici', MUgar, dycwtMuls, iuid cotton, ami of those but 
 a triflin^jf (|imntity. 
 
 The following riMiiarks of a mcrcantili' \Yio\u\ will 
 best ilbistrati' tlio ])nsont state of trade: 
 
 " Tlie environs of Aeapuleo are not badly |)o|>ulated, 
 but the wants of these people, the eliniate bein;»' 
 tropical, are but few, and, like the neighbouring 
 Indians, their principal dress consists of the nianta, 
 althouiifh they use a little more finery, the nu'ii 
 w(>aring Chinese sashes, (fasas or bandas,) and pre- 
 ferring: linen to cotton for their shirt!;". 
 
 The women dress in linen shifts, usin^- navy blues, 
 and calicoes for their petticoats. Stockinjifs are not 
 in use, and for their head gear they entirely make 
 use of the riboza or Mexican shawl, made in the 
 interior. Their hats, shoes, and other trilling- articles 
 of W(«aring apparel are all made in the interior ; so 
 that articles for sale on the spot, that can be imported 
 into Acapuleo, arc reduced to very few. 
 
 "Tile im})ortation of nianta is prohibited, being 
 supplied from the interioi*. Creas, Russian duck, 
 j)rints, a triHe of fine linen, such as Brctagnes, 
 Estopillas, &c., a few China goods, as sashes, twine, 
 silk, &c., but principally jdatillas of middling and 
 ordinary quality, and navy blues. The consumption 
 would not exceed two hundred dollars annually." 
 
 Tims far then the connnerce of the interior appears 
 to meet their necessities, and the wants of the popu- 
 lation are not likely to attract cargoes to this port. 
 
 My friend concludes, — 
 
 II 9 f 
 
ih:jh.j 
 
 MIAIIS'lhS. 
 
 ir>:) 
 
 "* It is only nil iii<'i'(>as(> of |M)|uil!itioii aii«l <'oiis<>(|iinit 
 iiicri'aiHo of :iniiciilturiil iinliistry, tliiit in linn; may 
 niisi^ (lie port of Acapuli'o to any consciiiicncc lor 
 inaritiinr s|K>('iiiation." 
 
 Tlit^ |»o|uilation of Aeuiuilco in iHiJG wasfonipuUd 
 as Co! lows: 
 
 ' Town. 
 
 IK-atlis. 
 
 iMcn 
 
 Hr,7 
 
 Woiiu'ii 
 
 IJKi 
 
 Tutiii •-'();;{ 
 
 Men 
 
 35 
 
 Women 
 
 -10 
 
 
 Total 75 
 
 Itirtlis. 
 
 Hoys 
 
 (iii'ls 
 
 If. 
 
 70 
 
 Total 115 
 Excess nhovc deaths 10 — about 1 per eeiit. 
 
 The diseases of tli(f country arc intcnniltent fever, 
 a^^ue, yellow fever, jauiulice, an<l «lro|>sy ; mc-asles 
 and hooi)ing-eou<r|i \v(!re prevalent <lurin;^ our 
 visit. 
 
 The fort will not bear unu^h scrutiny. Altliou;»h 
 constructed by the; best en<^ineers of the day, San 
 Carlos, the third fortification of Western S|»ain (viz. 
 Callao 1st, UHoa 2nd, and Carlos 3r«l) is commanded 
 by every easily accessible heiju^htin its nei^^hbourhood. 
 It is capalde of mountin«»' sixty f^uns ; twenty-five; of 
 various calibre arc mounted ; ten good brass thirty- 
 two pounders show their muzzles very conspicuously, 
 and these we may reckon their main force. I^'ive 
 hundred is stated as tlie garrison, and tliis includes 
 militia, (when armed;) one hundred and fifty can be 
 
154 
 
 A\ KXKCI TION. 
 
 [ih:k 
 
 r i.lli! 
 
 I ! 
 
 iiinsti'rcd. Tlicy arc not well clotluMl ; mul of course 
 iiiidcr Hiicli oHictTs us fVc(|iH'nt revolutions breed, like 
 nuisliroonis, little cun bo expected beyond the most 
 ^-or^^'cous iind ill iidaptcd unit'ornt that can be inia<;;ined, 
 HtuU'ed by more pride than the buttons can well 
 Ml. <«tain. 
 
 Tile oHicers here, us in some other tree countries, 
 <*an <;ive you a yard of ta])e, ramrod, or sword. 
 
 An example of their determination to ri;;i<Ily 
 execute the laws, occurred the day of our de])arture. 
 Two j)easunts, murdi'rers and robbers, wero con- 
 deuMied hy a court-martial to be shot. They were 
 led out with ^^reat ceremony, escorted by an oflicers 
 <>uard, and a priest in full canonicals purposely delay- 
 ing" the march, and haltin<>' at intervals in order to 
 inculcate reli'^ious precepts. They at k'ugth reached 
 the fatal spot, a juttin<»- headland fronting the shij). 
 I lere two seats had been prepared, witli crosses at 
 shoulder hei<?ht, when seated. To these seats they 
 were conducted, clad entirely in white, and their 
 firms securely lashed to the crosses. The priest 
 having rejieated their sentence, from the warrant, 
 they were desired to kiss it in testimony of its justice, 
 and i»roof of their repentance, which ':hey did most 
 I nimbly. Having received the sacrament, they were 
 despatched by signal, ten men presenting their pieces 
 within three feet of each victim. One was twenty- 
 two and the other eighteen years of age, and the sum 
 for which they deliberately committetl murder, four 
 !!ihillings, or less ! 
 
IKJH.] 
 
 M'.AUCII KUU sAcuiiicms. 
 
 IfM 
 
 As our piirs*'!' one lu^lit liiid hccn furcibly ptT- 
 sujuIimI t(> rmiity liix pdckcts of liis spare casli, aiwl 
 otliiT acts of (loul)tfiil cliaractcr occurred, we an- 
 unable to applaud the conduct of tlie lower orders. 
 Indeed, we were informed tliat tiie native inhabitants 
 of Puehia Nueva, a few lea;jfues distant from tiu' 
 town, were frequently in the habit of setting!: the 
 authorities at detiauce, and coiinuittin^ excesses with 
 impimity. 
 
 The inhabitants sel<h)m nu)ve from home, or in 
 the town at ui^lit, unarmed. The peasantry are 
 disanued bef<M'e euteriu,i>' the town, and receive 
 their passes and recei|»ts for arms, whicii are re- 
 turned on re|)assino' tiu' boundary. This renunds 
 me (jf tile steamers conveyini; labourers from 
 Dublin in IKU), wliere their shiialeiis were taken 
 from them until they landed on the jtier at Liver- 
 pool. 
 
 After ]»assin<«- our time very a^jfreeably, we took 
 leave of our friends in the Venus, and on the 19th 
 of January proceeded for Realejo, intending to 
 touch at the Sacrificios and port of Ciuatulco, and 
 determine tlieir positions. 
 
 On the 24th of January, being i)rt* the position 
 assigned for Sacrificios, the coast was examined 
 closely, for any indentation which might justify our 
 anchoriuff. At noon we were to the east of Gna- 
 tulco, but no 8ymi)t(mis of a port. I therefore 
 despatched a cutter with Lieutenant Collinson, to 
 examine for Sacrificios, and rejoin nie at anchor on 
 
 i 
 
': %i 
 
 1 
 
 ! :■ * 
 
 i'l :*^ 
 
 15(1 
 
 firuUKNTS. 
 
 [1S3S. 
 
 tilt' coast. . Aftor niiiuin;>f twt'iity-tbur miles witlioiit 
 meeting with iiiiy iiKleiitatioii to justify the title of 
 port, 1 rounded to, and anchored oft* the west point 
 of a bay, which probably may be the Morro Ayuca 
 of IJauza, but it (HHcrs much in j)osition. 
 
 Landin<jf at the time of anclioring was im]>racti- 
 cable, but I succeeded on the followin<>- day in 
 obtainin<^ comjdete observations on a rock off the 
 point, by which this remarkable angle of the coast 
 is well secured ; the sea giving me notice to ((uit, 
 at the instant I had comjjleted, by nearly washing 
 away our instruments. 
 
 At sunset, Lie\itenant Collinson returned, having 
 succeeded in finding Cjuatulco, and secured its posi- 
 tion. It was, however, too small for the ship. 
 
 My detention at this point afforded me very 
 satisfactory data respecting the ])artial set and direc- 
 tion of the currents. During the first twenty-four 
 hours the current set strong, one and a half to two 
 knots to the eastward. On the day following, 
 having again anchored in a calm, it was found to 
 set westerly, but not with so much velocity. Our 
 <lead reckoning varied considerably in every direc- 
 tion, but an easterly set prevailed. 
 
 From Morro Ayuca I shaped a direct course 
 across the Gulf of Tehuantej)ec, expecting U, exj)e- 
 rience some of the gusts which are assigned to that 
 region. In this we were entirely disappointed, 
 altliouii'h a fresh breeze favoured us for a short 
 j)erio(l. On approaching tlie eastern shore, near the 
 
 m 
 
isns.] 
 
 NUMKUOT'S VOLCANOS. 
 
 1." 
 
 U 
 
 Aiiiilpas range, I was sui'itriscd, when at a ooiisidc- 
 ral)le distance from tlie land, to strike sonn(lin,i>s in 
 sixty-ei^lit fatiioms, which continued to de.Tcase 
 very reguhirly until ten tiiatnigiit, wlien \ve clian«>ed 
 our course offshore in ehnen and alialftatlionis, with- 
 out jjerceivinu: land, or hearing' the " surf soun<l," 
 which generally can be detected at night at seven, or 
 even ten miles. 
 
 Light baffling airs prevented our making nnich 
 |)rogross, l)ut the tedium was in s(mu; measure dis- 
 si|)ated })y splendi«l views of these volcanic ranges. 
 At one view no less than twelve consjncuons vol- 
 canic cones were visible. As far as the sea horizon 
 was available, we endeavoured to fix their ])ositions, 
 by anchoring daily before noon. Our draughtsmen 
 attempted to delineate them, but no ettbrt of the 
 pencil could convey an adecpiate idea of such mag- 
 nificence. Far as the eye could reach to the N.1'1, 
 numerous cones of extinct volcanos were readilv 
 traced, as friends of yesterday; whilst to the west- 
 ward we could barely trace through the tropical 
 haze those with which to-morrow would l)ring us 
 more intimately in connexion. Our observations 
 were continued throughout the day three hourly. 
 Although apparently ovcrlnokwg us, the nearest cone 
 was at least sixty miles distant. 
 
 ^ur progress was but tardy until the morning of 
 the 2n(l Feb. when we reached in and j^'-vhted the 
 colours at Sonsonate, oft' which we observed two 
 American schooners at anchor. Amongst the niiuor 
 
 \ 
 
'if 
 
 loS 
 
 UKALE.ro. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 Hi 
 
 volranos iimiu'diatcly about Soiisonato, tliat ol" 
 Isalec) aj)j)oaro(l in activity, and has lately given 
 them cause for anxiety. 
 
 On the morning of the 3rd February we stood 
 in for Libertad, and despatched a boat for letters, 
 on the receijit of wliich we l)ore away for Realejo. 
 On the following morning saw the Volcano de Viejo, 
 and by noon had taken up our old berth within the 
 island of Cardon. 
 
 !i; 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Excursion to sunimit of Viojo Volcano — San Antoi'.io — Mr. 
 IJridge, its proj)rictor — ('liiuandeg.i — Swarm of nius(|uitocs — 
 Moyotcpita — Pine range — Viojo summit — Palm toildy — 
 Return to Sun iVntonio — Move on to ('liicliigalj)a — Posoltcga 
 — Citv of Leon — its Cathedral and College — Ueach Piedra 
 Gorda on the lake of Managua — Attemi)t to visit JMomotoni- 
 l)ita relinquished — Stormy breezes — Reach Nagarote — II()S|»i- 
 t.ility — Move on to Matiarcs — Productions— Cholera, ^c. — 
 Reported remains of causeway to IMoniotombita— Reach Ma- 
 nagua — Brasil wood noticed — Sleep at ISIanagiia— Move on to 
 Tepitapa — The falls — Sulphur springs — Return to Managua 
 — Matiarcs — Nagarote — Leon and San Antonio — Rejoin Sul- 
 phur, and quit Realejo to examine Gulf of Pajjaga^o— Bay of 
 Salinas — Murciellagos islands examined — Return to Realejo — 
 Arrival of Starling with letters — Quit Realejo — Search for and 
 find Culebra — Survey it — Reach island of ('ocos— Tedious 
 passage — Pass through Gallapagos, and reach Callao. 
 
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 ■ 
 
 MkjLu 
 
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 100 
 
 VIEJO VOLCANO. 
 
 [I8n8. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Having suffered much of late, horse exercise was 
 recommended to me ; and as my professional duties 
 might be much assisted by fixing some of the 
 principal peaks in the neighbourhood, I deter- 
 mined on making an inland excursion for that ob- 
 ject. Having paid a visit to Mr. Bridge, the hos- 
 pitable i)roprietor of a fine sugar plantation at San 
 Antonio, and which he manages to work with great 
 success, I made arrangements, through his assistance, 
 for mounting the Viejo volcano, from whence I 
 could obtain an extensive view, not only of the moun- 
 tains, but also of the features of the coast. Pro- 
 vided with the necessary instruments, and accom- 
 panied by the surgeon, a mate, and botanical 
 collector, we started for Chinandega at p. M. oji the 
 8th, fully intending to ride on to Moyatepita (a 
 farm l)elonging to Mrs. Bridge) the same night ; 
 but owing to the stubbornness of our guide, who 
 was lately married, and his wife residing at Chinan- 
 dega, we were unable to advance until five the 
 
1838.] 
 
 MOYOTEriTA. 
 
 IGl 
 
 followiiif^ nioriiino'. Fortunately we Lad the j)lea- 
 siire of an introduction to Sr. Chico Vallejo, who 
 kindly entertained ns during the nio-ht. 
 
 Aliout half past nine we reached Moyotepita, 
 having passed through a band of mosquitoes, ex- 
 tending three or four miles, which galled both our- 
 selves and horses much, and sadly put our patience 
 to the test. Suddenly they appeared, and after a 
 brisk gallop, as suddenly forsook us. 
 
 At Moyotei)ita we rested, breakfasted, and dined. 
 Moyotepita is situated on the first rise of the great 
 flat of marsh land, through which the Estero Real 
 meanders until it reaches the Gulf of Fonseca. 
 This flat extends easterlv behind the ranges of Te- 
 lica and Asosusco, and probably near, or even as 
 far as, the lake of Managua, by which (I firmly be- 
 lieve) it is fed. By barometric measurement it is 
 not above the level of the observatory at Cardon. 
 Range of temperature 84° to 91° in shade, in a well 
 fifty feet deep 90°. 
 
 It was necessary to come to this side of the 
 range, as the Volcano de Viejo is inaccessible on the 
 south. 
 
 At four p. M., having procured guides, we pro- 
 ceeded for the foot of the mountain, where we de- 
 signed slee])ing. Our journey lay partly through the 
 woods, where the guides halted for a draught of the 
 fermented juice of the palm, (toddy,) w-hicli their 
 previous visits Lad prepared, and others were now 
 tapped in readiijess for our return. As the method 
 
 VOL. I. M 
 
 i]\ 
 
! il: 
 
 102 
 
 PFNK RANOK. 
 
 [183H. 
 
 • ^ 
 
 
 is (lifli'rciit from .any I have before observed, I shall 
 describe it. 
 
 Tlie tree hv'mg fhlkd, (priekly tree pahii,) and the 
 top branches lo])ped ott'at tlielr Junction, *vhere the 
 cabbapfe shouUl be, an oblong cistern is cut out, 
 four inches wide, nine lonp^, and six deep. The 
 broad bases of the leaves are laid over this; the 
 cavity fills, fermentation ensues, and ii' twenty-four 
 hours a pleasant sharp beveraf^e resembling cider 
 results. Jf it be allowed to remain longer, it be- 
 comes bitter, contains more alcohol, and is less 
 ]»leasant, and more intoxicating. It is sucked 
 through a tube. 
 
 After scrambling through nmch loose lava rock, 
 which I was surprised to see the animjils attempt, 
 as it was entirely hidden by long grass, we 
 reached our sleeping station at seven o'clock, where, 
 having picked out the softest stone bed, and unrigged 
 and tethered our animals, we made the most of our 
 time, by devoting ourselves to the sleeping god. 
 
 At dawn on the lOth, we remounted our steeds, 
 and passed yet more difficult ground, until half past 
 six, when we reached the lower line of " the Pine 
 range ;" that tree observing a distinct height through- 
 out all these mountainous ranges. It became, 
 therefore, a matter of interest to ascertain this 
 elevation, which by barometric data is three thousand 
 feet above the sea-level. Temperature at this time 
 (before sunrise) 66°. 
 
 Having tethered our beasts, we commenced the 
 
1838.] 
 
 TIIK CIIATKR. 
 
 1U3 
 
 iiHcont () pied. Tlio first oftorts, owiiif? to tlic Ion;; 
 grass, were fatigiiinpf, and the mate was /tors do 
 combat ])efore we had reached lialf way. As we 
 ascended, the pfrass failed, ])r(«eze f'resliened, and 
 spirits rose, and at nine we liad turned the crater 
 lip. 
 
 Our ^ruides were certainly not at home at tliis 
 work, aud at this moment, when it was time to l)e 
 observing, my hopes were nearly annihilated by the 
 peak presenting itself on tlie o])posite side of the 
 crater, and apparently inaccessible without grt'at 
 difficulty. 
 
 At first we descended to the edge of the iinier 
 cone, from whence I thought I discovered a nai'row 
 pass ; and it was only by dint of ])erseverance and 
 determination that we could j)ei>iuade the guides to 
 re-shoulder the instruments and remount. Diffi- 
 culties vanished on gaining the lip, and we found a 
 very comfortable and well-beaten track on an easy 
 ascent, which the stray, or now wild bullocks, had 
 prepared for us to the summit. 
 
 I was fortunate enough to obtain all my observa- 
 tions, by which this position and its height were 
 secured. It is five thousand five hundred and 
 sixty-two feet above the mean tide-level, and two 
 thousand five hundred and sixty-two feet above the 
 pine range. Range of tem])erature during our 
 stay (from half past ten until half past one) 77°*5 to 
 80°. 
 
 I was unfortunate in the day. It blew fresh, 
 
 M 2 
 
 '■ ' 
 
i) If 
 
 ; i 
 
 V 
 
 I! 
 
 I' 
 111 
 
 iillf I 
 
 fit i^ 
 
 a 
 
 !|];li 
 
 104 
 
 SCRNERY. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 (altlionjLifli calni at the base,) was hazy, and except- 
 ing lii<»li peaivs and conspicuous headlands, I lost the 
 most interesting minutia'. 
 
 The volcano now consists of three craters. The 
 outer is about five hundred yards in diameter, having 
 the peak or hiorhest lip on the western edge. Within, 
 it is precii)itous, from the peak to about one h un- 
 dred and fifty feet. From the inner base at that 
 depth, the second iimer volcano rose to about eiglity 
 feet, having within it another small cone, which is 
 inactive. Around the western base of the first or 
 inner, the cliffs rise precipit( us, with pines growing 
 luxuriantly from the vertical face of the precipice. 
 Hot vapours arise in many points, and doubtless to 
 this cause they are indebted for their peculiar 
 liealthy and luxuriant condition. 
 
 No minerals worthy of carriage were observed. 
 We had been informed that sulphur was abundant, 
 but those who descended to look for it saw none. 
 The temperature of the loose soil in the immediate 
 vicinity of the upper hot spring, which exceeded the 
 limits of my thermometers, I should estimate to be 
 near the boiling point, probably 196°. It speedily 
 warmed mo to an unpleasant degree through thick 
 boots. 
 
 The view of the immediate neighbourhood Mas 
 very beautiful, and fully repaid our exertions. The 
 map of the country was at our feet ; even the main 
 features of the lake of Managua were available. 
 Myriads of field bugs and other insects pestered us, 
 
^H'^H.] 
 
 DKSCKNT. 
 
 Mi.") 
 
 and the bivczo very spci'dily dissolvtMl the onchciiit- 
 iiioiit, l)y tlio intrcMluction of si smoky Iiuzc. 
 
 At lijilf past one we coiniiUMictMl our doscent, ami 
 at tliree remounted our steeds. About half past six 
 Me readied tlie farm at IVIoyotej)ita, after havin;>' 
 felt the value of the i)rec'aution of our guides in 
 pre]>aring the toddy, for on our arrival at the spot 
 our water had been long e\|)ended, and some were 
 almost fainting with thirst. Mem. — J'eoplc who 
 ascend high mountains wi'l weak heads and weaker 
 stomachs, should reserve sjiirits for cases of neces- 
 sity only — as medicine. 
 
 Having rested at Moyotepita until eight in the 
 evening, we rode on to Chinandega, eight leagues, 
 which Ave reached at one a. m., and at the house of 
 our kind friend Vallejo, enjoyed a most refreshing 
 sleep. At daylight, after a cuj) of coffee, Me moved 
 on to San Antonio, and joined our good friend 
 Bridge and family at breakfast. 
 
 I had made arrangements Mith Mr. Foster, our 
 vice-consul, for the conveyance of a light boat to 
 sound part of the lake of Managua, and examine 
 the island of Momotombita within it, where re])ort 
 st.ited there were many objects worthy of attention, 
 particularly the idols of the aborigines. Two of 
 our lads were forwarded in her. Mr. Foster him- 
 self had volunteered to accompany me, but business 
 detaining him, he despatched his factotum (a young 
 man who knew the country, people, and language 
 well,) as my cicerone. With this addition, and 
 
 I: I'll 
 
 I 
 
 "i 
 
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 rt 
 
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 'ii 
 
 roG 
 
 CITY OF LEON. 
 
 [183S. 
 
 our ]»arty us beforo, wo not ofl* at four on t\\o niorii- 
 inpf of tlio 12tli. 
 
 The roads in this state (Leon) aro all excollont, 
 very level, and excepting wliere the rains have cut 
 their courses, might ])e travelled in an English 
 carriage. Bridges of course would obviate all <lifli- 
 culty. At this seasvni they were dusty, but the 
 custom of travelling late in the evening, or early in 
 the morning, prevented our feeling the additional 
 inconvenience of the sun, although in many parts 
 the roads aro well shaded by trees. Passing through 
 the small towns of Chichigalpa and Posoltega, we 
 reached Leon at nine ; where, after throwing off our 
 superabundant dust, we did anij)le justice to a good 
 breakfast. 
 
 Some difficulty arose with the authorities here, in 
 consequence of the vice-consul having omitted to 
 apprise (dl the authorities of my intentions ; but on 
 my calling on the chief, matters were soon satisfac- 
 torily arranged, with offers of assistance if required. 
 Observations were obtained in the garden of the 
 college for fixing the position of the city, and others 
 taken from the summit of the cathedral for further- 
 ing our operations. 
 
 Leon is situated in latitude 12° 25' 30'' N., longi- 
 tude 8G° 57' 45" W. ; and the cathedral flat is two 
 hundred and forty feet above mean-tide level; the 
 base may be considered one hundred feet less. 
 
 Judging from the cathedral and churches now 
 standing, as well as from the carving on doors and 
 
[I83S. 
 tlio inorii- 
 
 exccllcnt, 
 have cut 
 
 En^li.sh 
 13 nil (liffi- 
 
 but the 
 r enrlj in 
 [uldltional 
 any parts 
 g through 
 Itega, we 
 ng off our 
 
 a good 
 
 8 hero, in 
 mitted to 
 but on 
 
 1 satisfac- 
 required. 
 !n of the 
 nd others 
 r further- 
 
 ^., longi- 
 at is two 
 Dvel; the 
 ss. 
 
 hes now 
 loors and 
 
 18:jh.] 
 
 llAVAtJKS OF CIIOl.r.liA. 
 
 107 
 
 w'lidows, sculpture, &:c., of tlie ruius of the city, 
 ((U'stroycd in a hite rcvohitioiiary struggh',) Ijcoii 
 must have been a city of great opuh'nce, c<»nsi(UMa- 
 tion, and granchmr. So long as tlie ohl S|)aniar(ls 
 remained, affairs prospered, for capital was not 
 wanting; but they are now rare as one of their 
 palaces, for such their ruins would bespeak them. 
 Society has entirely changed, uih become nearly 
 native. The impulation is stated at thirty thousand, 
 including the sulmrb Sultiaga, which almost entirely 
 consists of huts iuhabited by native po])ulation. 
 
 Cholera has made great ravages in the states of 
 central America during the last year, and particu- 
 larly in that of San Salvador. At Leon, three thou- 
 sand fell victims to this disease? alone. 
 
 It is a curious fact, and one which I suspected 
 would result from my inquiries, that wherever I have 
 been able to obtain positive information, it ai)])ears 
 that the mortality has invariably been greatest on 
 the S.W. angle, (or lee quarter.) This may in some 
 measure be accounted for, by the preference which 
 the better classes would take advantage of, by select- 
 ing more airy situations on the weather-side, where 
 also the population would be less crowded. Their 
 streets are wide, and mathematically regular ; and 
 in the meridian and at right angles, presen^^ing the 
 appearance, from the summits of the mountain, of 
 complete chequer boards. The lower orders suf- 
 fered most. My authority has generally been a 
 padre or an official, aided by my cicerone, who 
 
 HSi 
 
ii!' 
 
 KIH 
 
 CATlIKDUAr.. 
 
 [I8;]H. 
 
 H|>lK'ar('<l to l)e tlic frieiul of the Htuti'. Wliorcvor 
 he ui'iit, tlio put term of Carlito, in an atH'ctionato 
 t(»ii(', wuH sure to wt'lc'oiiU! Iiiin. lie liud been 
 fill ployed tradiii^if tlirou<'lioiit tliis state, aiul resident 
 at times in eacli villa^^e in onr ronte. 
 
 The prodnee of Leon and itn vit iiiity consists of 
 sugar, indigo, maize, talloM', and liides. Tlie " Chief 
 of Instate " resi(U's there. Formerly it liud a bishop, 
 but a vicar at present oHiciates. The cathe(hal is 
 large and very firmly constructed. During the revo- 
 lution, guns were, or Mere about to be, mounted on 
 its roofi which, from its strong arches, would easily 
 su])port them. The college is still maintained by 
 the authorities, but J was unable to collect details 
 resjjecting the establishment, &c. The jtupils are 
 educated for the church, law, physic, and state. 
 
 I had intended measuring our meridian distance 
 from Cardon by rockets ; but either they did not 
 ascend well, or did not burst properly, therefore no 
 definitive time could be noted. Having sent our 
 party on before us at four, we waited until nine in the 
 evening, when by the light of the moon we moved 
 forward, and reached them at our rendezvous at 
 Pue'blo Nuevo about one, the distance being eight 
 leagues, and the road good. 
 
 This village contains about thirty huts. The chief 
 employment of the inhabitants apjieared to be the 
 construction of earthen water-jars, — for which purpose 
 the steatitic nature of the soil appeared to be pecu- 
 liarly adapted. 
 
 i. !iP 
 
1S3H.] 
 
 I'AI'AdAYoS. 
 
 KID 
 
 At five tlio folIoNviii^- niorniiii;, liavin;;- rrcliiUMl on 
 a lit'df^tcad of stivtcliid liidr, witli half a galo blow- 
 ing on n«}' feet, iind cold cMiougli for ;'>()" N., \vo 
 reconinioncod onr Jonrncy to the lake of Managna. 
 
 I am infornicMl it always Idows fresh, and at times 
 very hard, in this neighbourhood. Indeed the strong 
 gales termed " I'apagayos," from blowing out of the 
 gulf of that name, connnenee about the liiu! of 
 Leon, and are first exjKMieneed ofl' Ca})e Desolada, 
 (about six miles to the eastward of Cardon,) and 
 suddenly give way to calms after passing to the 
 vvi'stward. This is d(ml)tless the Atlantic " trade 
 wind," increased by induction through the |»a>s 
 formed by the lake of Nicaragua, and our neigh- 
 bouiing mountains. It decreases about sunset, and 
 attains its ordinary force about nine or ten in the 
 morning. 
 
 After a pleasant and easy ride wc reached the 
 margin of the lake (at Piedra (Jorda) about ten 
 o'clock, (the distance four leagues,) where we found 
 our boat and crew awaiting us. We remained on 
 the beach to determine the latitude at noon, and 
 obtain other data, as well as to watch for a more 
 favoura})le moment for launching our boat. 
 
 About one, the sea having decreased considerably, 
 we launched our bark, and freighted her, but it 
 was soon evident that she could not carry us, nor 
 could the crew make any progress ; and, as it was 
 impossible she could reach any ])lac of safety 
 before dark, I instantly gave up this ex])edition ; 
 
 h 
 
 I 
 
 •\ 
 
; ( 
 
 '11 
 
 rf 
 
 kfi 
 
 y 
 
 If ■'. 
 
 
 !i ' 
 
 km 
 
 i-i 
 
 ; 
 
 
 iiii 
 
 I'i. 
 
 ' ^'^ 
 
 ! 
 
 ill! 'i : I 
 ■ ! I I 
 
 1 ? I ■ 
 
 I' ' ^ 
 
 ;> 
 
 I!! I'' 
 
 ' f "I 
 
 f 
 
 11 
 
 ill 
 
 170 
 
 ROAD TO MANAGUA. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 and loading the horses of my cicerone and self with 
 the instruments, despatched the remainder of our 
 party back, foreseeing that they would prove too 
 great a clog on my operations, and that accommoda- 
 tion for more than two was beyond the scale of the 
 huts we might touch at. 
 
 We, therefore, pushed on for such villages as we 
 migiit find on the borders of the lake, and thus 
 define its outline as the nearest approach to the 
 scene of our intended operations in the neighbour- 
 ing gulf of Papagayo, intending to make the junc- 
 tion or fall of this lake into that of Nicaragua at 
 Tepitapa i:he extreme limit. At five we reached 
 Nagarote, (a distance of five Spanish leagues in two 
 hours,) and finding my strength fail me, we re- 
 mained for the night. 
 
 Our host and hostess showed us more decided 
 attention than we had before experienced, and 
 begged, in the honest effusion of their hearts, that I 
 would always male that house my rendezvous when 
 I travelled that road ; being then ignorant that my 
 road lay on the " deep blue sea." Of course all this 
 kindness I attributed to the presence of Carlito, 
 who did nothing bnt play monkey tricks Avith the 
 little ones from the time of our arrival. 
 
 IJy five the ensuing morning we were en route 
 for Matiares, (eight leagues,) which we reached at 
 eight ; temperature 78°, noon 90°. Our journey 
 over this tract presented some slight hills. After 
 bveakfast we i»roceeded to the beach, and obtained 
 
 ii 
 
1838.] 
 
 MATIARES. 
 
 in 
 
 satisfactory data, which places it in latitude 12° 14' 
 15" N., longitude 86° 43' W. 
 
 Matiares is a very small village ; population 
 usually three hundred, but decreased one hundred by 
 cholera. It is, however, generally healthy, deaths 
 not averaging more than three or four in the year. 
 No deformities were noticed. Its productions are 
 cotton, maize, and plantains. 
 
 I had been informed that a causeway formerly 
 existed from the neighbouring beach to the isln,iid vf 
 Momotombita, (the diminutive of its neighbour 
 Momotombo, nearly the same height as the Viejo,) 
 and fortunately the place I had selected to observe 
 at, showed the remains. Its direction is towards 
 that island, and at the dry season a few years ago, 
 when the waters were unusually low, it was dry for 
 three hundred and sixty yards. As the only tem- 
 ples, (or caves,) idols, &c., alluded to, are on Mo- 
 motombita, it is more than probable that this cause- 
 way was for the priests, if it really exicnded so far; 
 but, on the other hand, it is reported that fifteen 
 fathoms surround the island. 
 
 At two we moved forward for Managua, (six 
 leagues,) which we reached at five, the nad being 
 remarkably good and well shaded. Our animals 
 were in better condition than their riders. About 
 one mile before entering the town, we observed, for 
 tlie first time, the Nicaragua wood, (Civsalpinia 
 cchinata,) a great article of trade in tliis and the 
 adjoining state. 
 
 J\ ■ 
 
 \'\ 
 
172 
 
 TOWN OF MANAGUA. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 '! 1; 
 
 ffl :i 
 
 We were fortunate in obtaining very decent 
 aeeomniodations. The town of M.anagua, from 
 which the lake takes its name, is extensive, althougli 
 not containing many Imilt houses. The population, 
 almost entirely native, consists of twelve thousand 
 souls. The town is situated on a gentle slope to- 
 wards the lake, which washes close to its limits. 
 A large church stands nearly alone at its eastern 
 end, forming one side of what probably might have 
 been intended for a square, but there is nothing- 
 attractive about it. At the corners of the streets 
 several images, rudely carved in stone, were pointed 
 :. as the work of the aborigines. They are much 
 worn, defaced by time, and merely serve as corner- 
 stones to the side paths. 
 
 Managua appears to have suffered severely in the 
 late cholera visitation, losing by it alone six hundred 
 out of the population of twelve thousand. Of this 
 number it is rather remarkable that females be- 
 tween the ages of fifteen aud twenty- five, and prin- 
 cipally newly-married, were the predominant victims. 
 Generally this spot :s considered as peculiarly 
 healthy, the average deaths seldom exceeding one 
 per cent. 
 
 I was rather amused at their custom of publish- 
 ing the bans or notices of marriage. The person 
 who reads the notice is accompanied by two soldiers 
 under arms, moving by beat of drum to the crossings 
 of the streets, where it is duly proclaimed, veiy 
 nuich in the style of our criers. The natives of 
 
 f — 
 
[1838. 
 
 1838.] 
 
 FALLS. 
 
 173 
 
 veiy 
 
 ?s of 
 
 tliis place, eitluM' from less exposure, more frequent 
 Imtliiiig, or difference of origin, ai>pear to be better 
 limbed, finer featured, and of a clearer complexion 
 than those of the places we have passed through. 
 They are athletic, M'ithout increase of bone at the 
 joints, and of more prepossessing manners. 
 
 At half- past three on the morning of the 15th, 
 we set out for Tepitapa, the point where the Mana- 
 gua descends by its first fall into the waters of the 
 Nicaragua, but distant from that lake fourteen miles. 
 At starting the thermometer stood at 75°, but on pass- 
 ing through a deeply-shaded wood, just as the sun was 
 rising, it had fallen to 61. The distance to Tepi- 
 tapa is estimated at eighteen leagues ; but this can- 
 not be correct. I should say that it does not exceed 
 ten, as we reached the house of the padre at half- 
 past seven. After some delay we succeeded in 
 getting breakfast. Inns or houses of entertainment 
 do not exist ; the traveller must, tlierefore, put up 
 where or how he can, and patiently await what 
 follows. There are no waiters, or bells to ring. 
 
 I notice this because I had anticipated a better 
 reception from the fraternity, who not only gene- 
 rally take good care of themselves, but from being 
 men of some little education, are more apt to extend 
 the courtesies of life. 
 
 After breakfast I procured a canoe, and by the 
 aid of two inefficient boatmen, fearing momentarily to 
 be immersed with my instruments, succeeded in 
 reaching a point within the lake, from whence I had 
 
 "1 
 
 'I 
 
 \y 
 
H 
 
 
 i'^ 1| I 
 
 n 
 
 it 
 
 .h 
 
 ml 
 
 ! ii! 
 
 1 : ! 
 
 il^ I 
 
 ii 
 
 ,1 
 
 174 
 
 THERMAL SPRING. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 a fair view of the surrounding objects. After noon 
 I returned and visited the first fall, which is about 
 a quarter of a mile from the gorge of the lake. 
 Here a mass of rock passes across, over which the 
 water falls by an inclined plane eight feet. Below 
 it the stream is spanned by a bridge about fifty feet 
 in length. 
 
 On the Tepitapa side a sulphur spring issues from 
 the earth, at near the boiling temperature, and flows 
 into the main stream. My thermometer was not 
 graduated above 120°, therefore I cannot state more 
 than that eggs were boiled in it and my sensation 
 on putting my finger to it, satisfied me it was near 
 two hundred and twelve. Crystallization was abun- 
 dant on the small stones between which it flowed, 
 and some specimens I examined were a mixture of 
 sulphur and calcareous matter. The taste was not 
 unpleasant. It is deemed a sovereign remedy if 
 taken hy the advice of the padre^ and much used both 
 internally and externally. As he seemed to like 
 neither me nor my instruments, he possibly mistook 
 me for a poacher on his domain. 
 
 The population of Tepitapa, which is but a small 
 village, (distant twelve leagues from Grenada,) com- 
 prises five hundred souls, of which the cholera took 
 off thirty ; but the average deaths range at ten per 
 cent. 
 
 The produce may be included under the heads 
 of cattle, com, and indigo. Nicaragua wood (termed 
 Brazil) is cut on the north side of the stream and 
 
1838.] 
 
 CALENTURA. 
 
 175 
 
 sells at one shilling per quintal. The bullocks are 
 the finest I have seen in central America, and were 
 offered at five dollars each ; ])ut the cost of driving 
 them to Realejo would make the whole amount to 
 seven dollars each. Fish are abundant in the lake, 
 principally perch. The Savola, or lake salmon of 
 the tropics, is found, but not taken in any quantity. 
 Alligators are also numerous. During the period of 
 our stay, the temperature ranged fi'om 84° to 85°, 5' 
 water 83°. Evap. 81°. 
 
 At a quarter to four we quitted Tepitapa ; and 
 our horses, apparently more anxious than even our- 
 selves to quit this inhospitable spot, carried us to 
 our old quarters at Managua in three hours. 
 
 After a fresh set of observations on the beach, 
 we moved on at three the following morning for 
 Matiares, where we slept ; and by noon the fol- 
 lowing day reached Nagarote. I was rather sur- 
 prised to find the doors and windows of our friend's 
 house closed, and as deaths in this country are 
 frequently sudden, began to augur ill. My cicerone, 
 however, led the way through the gate, and we soou 
 found that a calentura was the extent of the evil. 
 
 However, as the gentleman was the sufferer, 1 
 very soon brought him to believe that he was not 
 quite so ill, and eventually succeeded in removing 
 the talismanic kerchief bandaged about his head. 
 Before we took our departure, he was lively as on 
 my former visit. I experienced the same kind at- 
 
17G 
 
 CIIINANDECJA. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 tciition, and on our parting at three for Pueblo 
 Nuevo, this good cou})le evinced very strongly the 
 warmth of their feelings. At sunset, we reached 
 Pueblo Nuevo; and at dawn rode on for Leon, 
 where we arrived at eight, very much fatigued. 
 
 It being Sunday, and finding myself too much 
 exhausted for travel, I took rest, and starting at 
 four the morning following, reached San Antonio 
 by eight, in time for breakfast. Here, .also, I found 
 our worthy host, Mr. Bridge, in bed, suffering under 
 a smart attack of calentura, — one not to be talked 
 away. These attacks appear to occur very fre^ 
 quently, occupying about one third of the existence 
 of the residents ; indeed, the term calentura is so 
 indiscriminately applied to all affections of the head, 
 that one is not so much moved by hearing of its 
 presence, and I am satisfied in most cases that it 
 might be overcome by resolution. I never knew 
 it occur to any one but a resident. 
 
 After breakfast we moved on to Chinandega. The 
 population of this town is estimated at eight thou- 
 sand, and deaths by cholera five hundred ; general 
 average one and a half per cent. 
 
 All the towns are laid out similarly, in the 
 right-angled plan, with streets north, south, east, 
 and west. Probably this system originated by build- 
 ing the streets to correspond with the churches. 
 
 In Chinandega, the centre of the town is jiretty 
 closely built, but on the outskirts the houses are 
 
 '':,! 
 
\S'3S.] 
 
 CiriNANDEOA. 
 
 177 
 
 mostly furnished with gardens, which kcop tluMii 
 about forty or fifty yards asunder. The fences aie 
 often of bamboo, but more frequently of tlu^ cylin- 
 drical cactus, which runs up to twenty feet. 
 
 The houses are generally built of the a<lobe, of 
 one story, with an opi.n court in the centre. The 
 <*hurcli is large, and a resix^ctable building. 
 
 The produce is chietiy maize, sugar-cane, cotton, 
 fruit, poultry, and hides, collected from the neigh- 
 bourhood. Coffee has been grown and i>roduces well, 
 but none has yet been exported. An American gentle- 
 man, Mr. Higgins, has commenced the erection of 
 a mill for dressing cotton, but I am perfectly satis- 
 fied that its principle of action will fail. One 
 lailure will put the natives out of conceit of 
 machinery, and thus, instead of introducing any 
 useful improvement, he will considerably injure the 
 interests of others. Even if he succeeds, I can 
 clearly foresee that before he realizes sufficient to 
 cover his outhiy, he will become disgusted with the 
 country and — government, I was about to say, — but 
 may add under present prospects, — government then* 
 is none — property insecure. 
 
 After dining at Chinandega, we remounted, and 
 reached Realejo at three, and at half-past six J 
 was once more safely lodged in my own cabin. 
 One grievous annoyance attending travelling in this 
 country is the garrapata, an insect of the tick sj»e- 
 cies, which is so abundant that if you brush a bush 
 it is sure to shed a host upon you. They rapidly 
 
 VOL. I. N 
 
 l:|. 
 
 f'i 
 
 r ' 
 
178 
 
 (;aurai'atas. 
 
 [IHIK 
 
 ' it 
 
 i- 
 
 "5 H 
 
 M 
 
 <'f 
 
 insinuate tlicnisclvcs uiulor the ykin, and arc a per- 
 fect torment. Even for days after they have been 
 entirely removed, sympathetic twitches arc expe- 
 rienced, which are perhaps as r^reat an evil as the 
 reality — in some instances greater. It causes one's 
 skin to contract even to write al)0ut them. 
 
 During this absence of fourteen days we had 
 travelled over a distance of five hundred miles, and 
 I certainly felt my conntitution considerably re- 
 freshe<l. 
 
 liealejo is failing more from want of capital, and 
 tho inf^ecnrity of tlic j)resent government, than from 
 any want or field for specidation. 
 
 The timber which might be exported from 
 hence, in addition to those articles enumerate<l at 
 the towns ',,e visited, is of the best quality, not 
 indeed for the ornamental work of cabinets, but 
 for substantival house and ship services. The fol- 
 lowing list was prepared by a person well conver- 
 sant with carpentry, and has been added to by our 
 botanical collector. 
 
 Cedar of two kinds, one adapted for furniture, and 
 the other for canoes. They are known to arrive 
 at a diameter of nine feet, and are said to reach 
 tw^^lve. Maliogany, very compact, light and dark- 
 coloured. Roble ; in grain resembling oak and maho- 
 gany, some very handsoine. of whic! I have tl'o 
 best specimen, I'ir, toMgh, (Pinus serrotina.) 
 
 Guiliquisto ; — very hard, resists worms ; used for 
 underground work in houses, & c. 
 
 I I 
 
 d! 
 
1838.] 
 
 TTMBRR. 
 
 17!) 
 
 Guascino ; — used for tiinbei-s of boats. 
 
 Palanca ; — tough, and poworful ; used for levers, as 
 its name implies. 
 
 Madera negra. ; — strong and durable under water. 
 
 Palo Brasil ; — Nicarjigua wood. 
 
 Almendro; — strong, used for foundations and 
 mill work, rollers, &c. (squares three feet.) 
 
 Guanacaste ; — used for bongos, (not exportalile.) 
 
 Rou rou; — resembles rose-wood, (furniture 
 wood.) 
 
 La ourele ; — tough and serviceable ; used for 
 carts. 
 
 Narascalo ; — very hard, probably iron wood. 
 
 Caimito ; — fine, box-coloured, straight-grained 
 wood. 
 
 Melon ; — yellow, used for furniture, (resembles 
 Sanders.) 
 
 Guayam de Monte ; — durable, used for ship build- 
 ing. 
 
 Granadillo ; — resembles rose-wood, but harder. 
 
 On the 20th, as the Starling was yet absent, 1 
 determined upon the examination of the gulf of Papa- 
 gayo, and having completed our second tender, (tlie 
 Victoria,) we quitted our anchorage, leaving my assist- 
 ant, Mr. George, in charge of the observatory, as well 
 as \t^ith orders and provisions for the Starling. 
 
 My principal object at this moment was to seek 
 for and examine the port of San Juan, which spot 
 I had been informed that a Mr. Bailey (cmph>y(^d 
 by the government of Central America) liad selected 
 
 N 2 
 
 ' 
 
 
ISO 
 
 UVV or NM.INAS. 
 
 I ISIIS. 
 
 MS <Iu« poinl MlM»r<» (lie )>roj«M'tr<l «'mhiiI or vMilroiid 
 tVont flu* Nionni^'Mii slioiiM roinninuirnlo uitli tlio 
 
 Art«'r |tn'<sini»- Cnpr |>oHoln<In. \\r lM'i»nu lo r\- 
 |UMMtMUM» tho ^Msts IVoin llio ImIvo oI' Mimiigiin, //»» 
 ///</// A;/;f/ vifrnmiffff in its ronrsi' : Jiml slioilly Hio 
 ^•;ilo iiMTCMsotl snlliriiMitly to H|ili( » lew of onr smIIn. 
 jmd rrduro \\h to tn»l»|«« i'ooIimI topHiiils, rourscs. ninl 
 trvsMils; «»von tliissinjill cmiivhsm nn'ssin^- lirr imicli. 
 
 Olio \vl)o)o (liiy wo I'oiiiiiiiUMi iit niiolior, tlio hi|ii:iIIh 
 luMni*- too poworlnl to work in. jiihI tlio ium'ohh.'hv 
 »'xpon(lituv(> for so doin^ not l»oin^' WMrr.'infod I»v 
 :iny ocpiivaliMit. On tlio Ilnl, l»y dint of pcrNovor- 
 ;nuM\ wo roMcliod tln» lu>ad of tln» ji»'uir or Imy ol' 
 SjilinMs, (Molnnos of Itiinzn.) luit lisul not olmorvod 
 nnytliin_i>' liko ji riviM' or port. lnd(M>«l, tliis torin 
 onnnot ho rolio«l on tliron^'Iiont this const. Wlior- 
 ovor M boat onilmrks cnr^o, tlu» t(»rni port is jippliod. 
 
 Ilavinii' dotonninod tlio position of StiliiiiiM Island 
 in tluMvntro ot'tlio l»ay, I loft an ollioor (Mr. Spock) 
 in tlio \ ictoria. to niako a survey of tlio liay of 
 Salinas, and pnx'oiMlod with tho sliij) tosi'arch lor port 
 Cnlohra. l(Niviniiordors tor Mr. SptM-k to rejoin ni(» at 
 that rondo/vous. 
 
 On ronndinu' tho point in view corivspondin^'' to 
 I'oint Catalina of Hanza. W(» dis<»ovoivd u clnstcM- of 
 oiufht islands. 'riu>st< I dotonninod to oxaniino, an 
 thov did not appear on the ehart. They almost 
 formed two distinct harhonrs, the smaller islands 
 forminc: a cresccMit hy tlu* south, one lar^'o island 
 
I h:\h. \ 
 
 MAUnr.l.l.AdoM. 
 
 1^1 
 
 onr SUMS. 
 
 nrst's. tiiHl 
 (<r nmcli. 
 
 IHM'CSSMI'V 
 
 IM>rS('V(M* 
 
 |M-olr(*tini> till' nint, iiikI iiiintlit'i- nl siiniliir wi/c I* Min- 
 ing' till' liiir <>r sr|iiinitiiMi. I'liMsin^ into llir li;iv 
 wr nnrlinrcil in llii> iniin- or riisiiTii litirlMMir. iiiid 
 liMviii^' lixnl tlir |MiHilioiis, Hiiivryol il, niMl nxii- 
 |tlt'(nl \vn(rr iil ii very cnnvrsiM'iil |HiHili(Hi, uImtc \v«> 
 tinrlioicil ill Hiii-|y-t\V() rntlioiiiH, witli ti liiiusri' liiNt to 
 I lie nIiuit. 
 
 Wr t|iiillfil (or SiiliniiH, uWrr liiiviiiir HjilisliiMl fiiii- 
 s«>lv(>s tliiil Ciilrlirti wiih iioI iinir lis. TIm- idiiiic 
 nl' lliis itMiiiirkiiltlc ni|M', wliicli \vr litid iiiisliilo'ii 
 lor Cntxliiiti, is r)i|)r S(. Ilclonii, niid lli(> rliisltr 
 ol" isliiiiils is trniM'il Miin'irlln|;oM. or Knt InIjukIs. 
 
 Tlio H|M-iii^s nr<' miimmtoiih iumI liicrt' nr<> tolcDilih' 
 riviilrls; liiit only tlitit wiiicli we vvntcrcd nl (iM'tvvcni 
 tlir ('riilr(< |ioiiil niid lli(> iiiiiii))iH stilr ton|)|iro>M'li, l»y 
 r(«iis<ni ol'llio coiiHtjml siirl'. VVc ('oiiimIIIm' ^Miirs(|ii!ills, 
 t'voii ill this NlicltiM'cd iiositioii, roiiio down the 
 ^iillics with /iicjil. foicc, inid impede our work lis 
 well !is eiidiiii/^er our Iwoits. In lorty-eitrlit lionrs, 
 however, it wiis (inished. The ^e«»lo^i('jil striiclnn^ 
 (d" the ejijie iind islfifHls is u schistoHc serpentine, 
 <'ont.'iinin^ hjills of nolde serpentine. 
 
 As we j'oiild not letch Saliiiiis, I h«'nt. np iou posi- 
 tion where we ohserved a Wiv^ (lispljiyed, nM-kets 
 
 iirei 
 
 I, mid 
 
 .1' I 
 
 11 iiiiiiioer ot men ,'intl women in holiday 
 
 i>arl) i'ollected ; and, it, hein;^ Sunday, we aiiclMtrt'd 
 lor the day. Tlie surf was too heavy to attempt 
 laiMJinuf, tiiend'ore we conld neither fix f»nr [tosition 
 satisfactorily, lutr obtain information about San 
 .hian, althon^^di I strongly suspected this t(» l»«' the 
 spot. 
 
IH2 
 
 UriT CAKDON. 
 
 [iKJb. 
 
 h 
 
 On Monday \\v ran np to SiilinjiH Hay, and thou 
 <'oni!ni!ii('<'il tlio coaHt snrvt^y to llcalcjo, umlor vory 
 easy Hail, anchoring for obscrvationH near noon aH 
 woll as at ni/'ht. 
 
 Every nook was narrowly exaniincul, but without 
 sucross ; tluM'etore I am HatiwficMl that Sunday 'h posi- 
 tion, lu'fori' noticed, was tiie port in (piestion. 
 
 On March J4ti» we retunuMl to the island of Cardon, 
 and to my mortification found tiiat the Starling had 
 arrived and sailed a^ain in (piest of us. As we had 
 not found Culebra, I feared she might miss us and 
 cause further delay. 
 
 Here, therefore, 1 determined to await her arrival, 
 as well as comi>lete some nuceswiry observations at 
 the term day. 
 
 I now fouiid that my land trip had been most 
 important ; the mountains, whose peaks I had fixed, 
 securing our positions beautifully. In one point 
 which I have marked upon the chart, no obstruction 
 appeared to intervene from the sea to the Lake of 
 Managua, Jind the peak of the island of Momotom- 
 bita was frequently used as one of our objects for 
 Hxing the positions. 
 
 On the 20th of March the Starling retunied* 
 bringing but few letters ; and to cure general disap- 
 pointment, I determined on making another attempt 
 for Culebrii, in which we all felt interested. I felt 
 satisfied that Bauza had not erred more than in 
 position, and from the summit of one of the Mur- 
 {•iellagos I had noticed features which I suspected 
 s\erc thoK' of Culebra. Having embarked the ob- 
 
 i'ii 
 
IH3H.] 
 
 KNIKIl I'Oltr OF CHr.KUKA. 
 
 \H',\ 
 
 sorvjitory, Htock, &c., iiiiil Hii|>|»lii'H of very I'xccllciit 
 Miipfur uml rum, wliicli vvt'ic ohtaiiUMl ;it!i very rctisoii- 
 ulilc nitr IVoin tlic estatt' of Mr. Iiri«l;;i', we (juitti'd 
 Rt'ulojo uikI our ^(mhI iVirfids thert', Mtccrin^ for 
 Capo St. llclium, aud, oil rounding it, direct for tliu 
 K|K)t wliorc I HusjK'ftcd ('Ulid)ra t«) l)o situatiMl. 
 
 At daylight on Sunday, tho 25tli of March, wo 
 woro cloHo oil" tile port, but not ha'iujf al)le to <Iotoct 
 tlio Viradoros, wo wore, and intended runnin<]f fur- 
 tiier Houtii ; us Kellet iiad informed nie tliat in Ids 
 seurcli for me lie liad l)een unable to find it. 
 
 VVliile in tlie act of wearing, a ^leani of sunsiiine 
 sliowed an island inshore, which induced me to 
 make another attempt, and on reaching to wind- 
 ward we opened the heads and discovered the 
 Viradores, but even then could only ascertain from 
 the mast head that any recess of bay lay within. At 
 noon we entered the heads, and at three iinchored 
 in eight fathoms in this sjdendid port, justly deserv- 
 ing that appellation. 
 
 On lamling, I met with some natives, who con- 
 firmed us in the name of the port. On Monday we 
 commenced our survey, to meet that of the outer 
 bay, entrusted to Kellett, which we completed in 
 forty-eight hours. I now frmnd that my conjecturt; 
 respecting the position of the Viradores was correct. 
 The sketch given in Bauza's chart can only be given 
 from an eye-sketch or memory. 
 
 The port is certainly magnificent, and from in- 
 formation derived from the natives, 1 learned that 
 
 f 
 
Id4 
 
 BUAStL wools &C. 
 
 [183^ 
 
 M 
 
 il! 
 
 1 i 
 
 ■•" I' 
 
 i'r 
 
 |l , i! ( i 
 
 = i!* i: 
 
 it is conuocted with Salinas, and thence on to Nica- 
 ragua, Granada, &c. If any railroad is contem- 
 plated in this quarter, it ouglit to enter at the IJa} 
 of Salinas, which would render these two ports im- 
 portant. When this portion of the country he- 
 eomes settled, civilized, and more populous, I littlt- 
 doubt bui; Cult3bra will be better known, and pro- 
 bably the chief port of the state of Nicaragua. 
 
 Water fit for consumption was not found at the 
 beach, but may be obtained at a short distance up 
 tlio creek, which a boat may enter at high water, 
 If wi^i^? were dug, doubtless it would be found at 
 the N. W. side, as the surrounding country is moun- 
 tainous. Another symptom in favour of this is the 
 thickly-wooded sides and summits, as well as bright 
 green spots of vegetation throughout the Ixiy. 
 
 Brasil Avood is very abundant ; mahogany and 
 cedar were observed near the beach, but as they 
 have been employed cutting the Brasil, probably all 
 the mahogany and cedar, easily attainable, has been 
 taken. 
 
 The geological features of this port differ much 
 from any that we have met with on the coast. On 
 the north side ot the bay, i-osting on a hardened 
 stratum of clayslate, a sandstone occurred containing 
 o'-ganic remains ; of these, masses had fallen to the 
 base of the cliffs, (about eighty feet above the level,) 
 and were washed by the sea. In one I found large 
 nodules of claystone dendrite's. In the western [)arts 
 tlu' bay, basalt occurred, with hon.blende rock ; 
 
 o 
 
 iH 
 
 !M 
 
1838.1 
 
 PASS CAPE VELAS. 
 
 185 
 
 and on the eastern side I met M'ith slu'lls enclosed 
 in a solid rock formed by a concretion of magnetic 
 iron-sand. Timber of great variety abounded. 
 
 In the bay where the Starling was at anchor there 
 Avas a large village, where the natives were anxious 
 to dispose of their productions, consisting of a-uit, 
 stock, cattle, &c. 
 
 On the 27th of March, quitting Culebra, we rounded 
 Point Catalina, which from the disjointed portions, 
 or islands, might have caused that of MurcieHagos to 
 be mistaken for it. We passed close to Cap'^ Velas, 
 so called from the rock being sometimes mistaken 
 for a sail, and looked into Catalina bav. Here we 
 lost the Papagayos. Therefore the limits may be 
 considered to be included in a line drawn from Cape 
 Desolado to Point Velas, and it is rather a curious 
 plienomenon that the strength of this breeze seldom 
 ranges so far as this chord, but seems to prefer a 
 curve at a distance of fifteen to twenty miles from 
 the land. 
 
 We now regretted the absence of these breezes, 
 and made but slow progress to the southward, the 
 currents pressing us to the eastward, and on the 3()th 
 even to the northward of the preceding day. Van- 
 couver notices this current also. 
 
 Our destination was now Cocos Island and Callao. 
 Bottles were thrown overboard daily to determine 
 the course of these currents. One was })icked up 
 and forwarded to the consul at Panama, wliicli 
 exhibited a ctmrse from latitude () 1(1', longituiU' 
 
 llj 
 
 .) rl 
 
186 
 
 CURRENT BOTTLE. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 ■i I 
 
 86° 18', west to Vedaci ; seven leagues and a quarter 
 to the south of Mensabe, about ninety miles from 
 Panama, having traversed a distance of five hundred 
 miles in eighty-eight days, on an E.b.N. course at the 
 rjite of 5'6 miles per diem. 
 
 On the 3rd of April we made the island of Cocos, 
 and on the following morning observed two whale 
 ships at anchor. The currents now drove us westerly, 
 and as I saw little chance of getting the ship in until 
 the afternoon, I started with my gig and tent, and 
 secured my observations for time. In the afternoon 
 the tide ran to the eastward, and the ship ran in 
 under a light breeze, anchoring within the whale 
 ships in nine fathoms, the rocks very clearly to be 
 distinguished, with sand patches between. Our 
 anchor was exactly on the line of foul bottom. 
 
 On landing, I was surprised to find a hut and 
 several seamen, one Portuguese, one English, and 
 five blacks, Americans, landed by their own demand 
 from one of the American whalers. At first I sus- 
 pected foul play, but on the masters of the vessels 
 landing and stating the facts to me in presence of the 
 men, they acknowledged " that they preferred living 
 on the island to sailing in his vessel." Their contract 
 was only " from the Sandwich Islands until they 
 reached a port." They were evidently bad characters. 
 Their only subsistence was fish, pigs, boobies, noddies, 
 and other marine birds frequenting the island. 
 
 Water is very abundant, and was easily conveyed 
 by hoses into the boaib. A sinvev of the bav and 
 
1838.] 
 
 REACH COCOS. 
 
 187 
 
 part of the north side of the island was effected, and 
 its position determined. The soundings otf the 
 island rather astonished our friends the Americans, 
 who seldom use any line above thirty fathoms ; and 
 the Starling having taking up two positions at anchor 
 in fifty-six fathoms, at one mile and a half off shore, 
 greatly facilitated our measurements. The triangles 
 were extended by the ship and one cutter, and the 
 dimensions on tangental limits determined. Wind 
 and rain put an end to our labours. 
 
 In Chatham Bay we noticed the rock mentioned 
 by Vancouver, and left on another the Sulphur's 
 name; latitude 5° 33', N., longitude 86° 58' 22'', W., 
 (lip. 23° 55', and variation 8° 23' 49" E., as determined 
 i)y us. 
 
 As the determination of the position of this island, 
 as well as its dimensions, were included in my special 
 instructions, (Vancouver stating it to be four miles, 
 and Colnett four leagues,) I was enabled to put the 
 matter beyond doubt. I suspect both Wi^e nearly 
 right, and that if we read Vancouver four miles in 
 diameter^ and Colnett four leagues in circiimferencey 
 the difference will be nothing. 
 
 The record we have left will, I trust, assist seamen 
 in rating their chronometers, and taking their de- 
 partures. But the whalers having cut all the 
 wood fit for fuel, they can only reckon upon 
 water. 
 
 Our botanical collector observes : " The vegeta})le 
 productions of this island are more reuuirkuble for 
 
 •Hit I 
 
 i; 
 
 
 (i 
 
 n 
 
 « I 
 
 1,1 
 
188 
 
 BOTA ]\ OF COCOS. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 ! ,'! 
 
 (■■' 111 
 
 l'..i' 
 
 ■Mil ii 
 
 !!^)' i 
 
 their luxuriance, than either their ricliness in variety 
 or vahie in cultivation ; a handsome Hora, with but 
 few peculiarities, consisting chiefly of those soft- 
 wooded plants generally inhabiting the nu)i8t regions 
 of the tropics. The greater part of its productions 
 are comprised in the natural orders of the Malvaceiv, 
 Palmiv, and the low tribes of Foliacea; or Crypto- 
 gamia. Bombax heptapliyllum is the largest tree 
 which came under my notice : the wood of all the 
 species is light and soft as in Malvaceai. 
 
 "Hibiscus gossypinus and H.palmatus are abundant. 
 Melastoma, a remarkably handsome genera purely 
 tropical, is here represented by M. grosa and parvi- 
 flora. Of palms a few only are found here ; those 
 which came under my notice belonged to the genus 
 of Diplothemium, but were not in flower. A variety 
 of cryptogamous plants abound, but few were in 
 flower during our visit. The most deserving of notice 
 is Diplagiuiii auriculatum, a specimen of which I 
 measured, and foiiiid the stem to be thirty-four 
 inches iii circumference ; unusually large for that 
 species of fern." 
 
 We felled one of the Bombax heptaphyllum, 
 eighteen inches diameter and forty feet in length, 
 intending to try it for boat i)lank. Its bark dyed 
 our decks a deep red brown. Unfortunately it was 
 thrown aMay before any experiments were tried on 
 it as a dye. The wood s[)lit freely in the direction 
 of its length, and was useless. 
 
 Fish are abundant in Chatham Bay, but were not 
 
1838.] 
 
 CHATHAM BAY. 
 
 18!) 
 
 easily taken at the ship. The whalers sent their 
 boats daily to fish lii the tide stream between the 
 small island and the mam, and were very successful. 
 Shell fish were scarce, and few worth preserving. 
 
 Boobies, (Pelecanus sula) and black noddies (Sterna 
 stolida) were very numerous, and easily taken. 'JMie 
 small white tern were plentifiil, but kept to the trees, 
 as well as the gannet and frigate pelican. A hawk 
 and sparrow wc.rc the only land birds taken. 
 
 The cocoa-nut has disappeared entirely from the 
 eastern bay, but was noticed on spots (inaccessible 
 by reason of the surf) to the westward. 
 
 The western bay is subject to sudden rollers, 
 particularly at low water, at which time the flat 
 extends to a great distance. It is also more subject 
 to calms, and consequently not so easy of ingress 
 and egress ; and being exposed to westerly winds, 
 watering at all times becomes difficult, and at low 
 water is quite impracticable. 
 
 Chatham, or Eastern Bay, possesses good anchorage ; 
 a vessel may anchor within a quarter of a mile from 
 the beach in six fathoms, (if requisite,) but the best 
 anchorage is in twelve fathoms. There a constant 
 draught will be experienced between the opening 
 of the islets, and a vessel can generally enjoy the 
 refreshing sea breezes, and fetch out at once, clear of 
 the dangers, which are but few. 
 
 It was not without surprise that I read Vancouver's 
 opinion of this island, vol. iii. p. 369. The view of 
 the two bays, with the magnificent S.W. clifts and 
 
 i, 
 
 m 
 
 i ! . 
 
 m 
 
 -ll 
 
 \¥\ 
 
 ' . I 
 
;r;' 
 
 \ 
 
 m 
 
 •hu 
 
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 'X 
 
 w 
 
 
 
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 \- 
 
 1 ■ 
 
 ' 
 
 190 
 
 WILD llOflS, &C. 
 
 [183H. 
 
 waterfalls, like silver threads, leaping from the richest 
 and varied tints of green that can be imagined, would 
 put a painter in ecstasy. Season, however, may make 
 a material difference. The same objects we view 
 and are delighted with in sunshine, are dreary and 
 uninteresting in gloomy weather, (Mount Edge- 
 combe to wit.) There certainly is an entire absence 
 of low country and undulation of hill, &c. ; but 
 this, although a defect, does not take from other 
 beauties. 
 
 The thicket is not now impenetrable, as the self- 
 exiled whalers traversed easily from bay to bay. 
 Goats are said to abound, but keep to the heights. 
 Pigs are plentiful, and one large hog was sufficiently 
 inquisitive to look into the tent at a distance of 
 twenty yards. By reason of our magnetic opera- 
 tions, we were non-belligerents, or he would have 
 paid for his temerity. 
 
 The stream in West Bay produces fresh-water 
 fish, but we could not obtain any. A curious bull- 
 head was ta'ien, as well as fresh-water Crustacea, 
 at our watering-place. Some of our men, who had 
 landed to wash and amuse themselves, found their 
 way up the hill east of the watercourse, and saw 
 into the interior, which they described as a lake 
 or large sheet of water. This would account for 
 fresh-water fish in West Bay. The quantity of 
 water we had noticed in streams, waterfalls, &c., 
 and which were not much augmented by heavy 
 rains, or by the stream in our immediate vicinity. 
 
 II f \ 
 
1838.] 
 
 VKGETABLES PLANTED. 
 
 191 
 
 must be supplied from this lake. No rains could 
 preserve the volume and equality for twenty-four 
 hours. 
 
 The soil about the beach was found to be a rich 
 eiirtli, but on the first ^"l above the sand, of a black 
 rich mould, overrun by a convolvulus, which also 
 ascended the trees near the water, and crowned 
 them, producing a grove within, with a very pretty 
 effect. 
 
 I planted seeds of the mahogany, horse-chesnut, 
 calabash tree, pumpkin, water-melon, Swedish and 
 common turnip, large Russian radish, and pine tops. 
 I also left a further supply with the people, with 
 a request that they would appropriate any hogs 
 which might attempt their destruction. I particu- 
 larly recommended to their attention the turnip and 
 Russian radish, as a valuable remedy, or preventive, 
 for scurvy. 
 
 Before my departure I used every persuasion with 
 the masters of the Americans to take these unfor- 
 tunate people away, as well as pointing out to the 
 people themselves the misery they must endure, and 
 the foul suspicions which the next vessel would 
 entertain of their conduct ; but only one embarked. 
 
 On the evening of the 6th of April, we drifted to 
 the southward, and although signals were made by 
 both vessels flashing during the night, and latterly 
 by rockets and gims, the Starling was not to be seen 
 at daylight, thus affording full proof of variety of 
 current. We had cleared the south end of the 
 
 I 
 
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 n> 
 
 (' 
 
 II >■ 
 
1D2 STAUUNG DESl'ATC'FIED TO GUAYAQUIL. [1838. 
 
 i 
 
 ly 
 
 t 
 
 'I ' 
 
 1. a 
 
 island whilst the Starling was on the north. She 
 was set iveatcrh/, and Sulphur castcrh/ About nine 
 she w.as observed dead on our lee-beuni, when we 
 bore up, and rejoined her. 
 
 Wind and currents continued to baffle us nnich 
 in our attempt to reach one of the Gallapagos islands, 
 where our meridian d'stance might be imi)ortant. 
 
 On the lOth I despatched the Starling to Guaya- 
 quil, m ( I'i^r ' brijg awav an oflicer, and some 
 of i^ur mo^t ijin*:"! supplies, left for us, at Puna, 
 by H. M. 3. <* ]uc^»\, with orders to rejoin at Callao. 
 
 We were now visitcd by heavy rains, during 
 which the wind generally favoured us, but it was 
 not until the 18th that we made Abingdon Island, 
 one of the Gallapagos, and passed within two miles 
 on its western side. We found the current setting 
 strong to the northward and westward. 
 
 On Saturday, the 21st of April, being in 0° 30', N., 
 and about a degree west of the island of Albermarle, 
 a course of experiments was made on the currents 
 and temperatures, from 1000 fathoms, 600, 500, 400, 
 300, 200, and 100, to the surmce ; being interesting 
 as to their proximity to land, and within the influence 
 of the Galapagos currents. 
 
 Captain Fitzroy has remarked on the differences 
 of temperature experienced on different sides of these 
 islands. Orders were issued in consequence to 
 watch narroAvly, and hourly, for any change of tem])e- 
 I'ature ; and this was particularly attended to in 
 passing Abingdon Island. No perceptible change 
 
1838.] 
 
 ANCHOll AT CALLAO. 
 
 193 
 
 wsis noticed; but on the 21st, when sending the 
 water-bottle down, the temperature of the sea at one 
 hour before sun,et was 80°, ;"), but half an hour 
 afterwuds 78°, 5 ; temperature at one thousand 
 fathoms, 4o', 5. 
 
 i3atHin<r airs now distressed us considerably, re- 
 ducin<^ our crew to short allowance of bread and 
 flour: iiiil on the 11th of May we had reached 
 latitude 22° S., longitude 104^ W., not a very ^reat 
 distance from Easter Island, and nearer Valparaiso 
 than Lima. 
 
 Here, however, we took a breeze which led us u*. 
 to Pisco on the 1st, and on the 3rd of June, after ; . i 
 extraordinary passage of seventy-four days, we a i 
 tlirou<rh the liocjueron and anchored in Callao roads, 
 having been then four days wiihant bread or flor '. 
 
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 VOL. 1. 
 
 O 
 
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 Liii 
 
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CIIAPTEU VIII 
 
 Naval forces at Callao — Refit the Sulphur — Arrival of Admirul 
 Ross — Periodical observations— Visit the coast below (!allno — 
 Cerro Azul — Port and town of Chiica — Disturbances in Peru — 
 Arrival of the (Chilians — Troops land at Ancou — Kngagcnient 
 near Lima — Chilian forces enter the city — Ladies witness the 
 action — The Suli)hur quits Callao — Visits the Ilorniigas, 
 Payta, Guayaquil. 
 
 't 
 
 t 
 
 u 
 
 2 
 
 ¥ 
 
10({ 
 
 CiriLIAN SQUADRON. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 CIIAPTKR VIII. 
 
 ii' 
 
 VVr found here TI. M. S. Imoorono, Captain nrncc, 
 and Harrier, Captain Carovv, Avatcliin^ tlio motions 
 of tlio ])oIIi^c'ronts; tho Froncli Commodore Vil- 
 Icneuvo, in tlie Andromodo 00, and Alacrite brinf, 
 and the American 80 ^un ship, Nortli CaroHna, 
 l)earinf^ the broad pen(hint of Commod'jre IJallard ; 
 with the corvette Lcxin<?ton. 
 
 The Chilian squadron, consistinf^ of two hirgc 
 corvettes, two bri^'-s, and a seliooner, under Connno- 
 (h)ro Posteofo, were cruising off San Lorenzo, block- 
 adin;nr the port ; but as the coml)ined officers repre- 
 senting tlie three nations, protested against its validity, 
 vessels entered, with occasional detention. The force 
 of the Peruvians amounted to one; 'orvette, one brig, 
 two schooners, and a few gun-boats, protected by the 
 castles of Callao. 
 
 On the 5tli I had the pleasure of becoming per- 
 sonally acquainted with Mr. Wilson, her Majesty's 
 charge d'affaires in Peru, to whom our department is 
 very much indebted for his very active and decisr've 
 
 '* '^li 
 
1838. J 
 
 LIMA. 
 
 id; 
 
 I'XtTtiniis ill forwarding our vii'ws witli tliis ^dveni- 
 iiu'iit. IV'niiissioii wuH immodiuti'Iy ol)taiiKMl to 
 erect our observatory on the lines, and altliou<;l» the 
 hostile squadron was constantly at hand, th(» further 
 privile<?e of einbarkin*? and disembark inpf at all hours 
 of the ni^ht was conceded, the |)aroleand countersign 
 bein^ delivered on board daily by an otticer. 
 
 In reply to letters sent by Lord Palmerstou to 
 our consuls in the Pacific, s|)(»cial letters from the 
 various governments, assuring me of every facility 
 and assistance in my pursuits, were otticially for- 
 warded to me by the respective consuls. 
 
 On the 7th of June her Majesty's ship President, 
 bearing the (lag of Rear-admiral Ross, C.R., arrived, 
 and anchored at Callao. 
 
 Our refit commenced, but owing to scarcity of 
 artificei*s and other delays, Avhich I could not con- 
 trol, the 7th of August arrived before wc got to 
 sea. In the interim we examined the Bocjueron 
 Passage, which had been reported to have narrowed, 
 and found that it was fully capable of allbrding a 
 safe entry for ships of the line. 
 
 Lima and its vicinity has been so fre([uently de- 
 scribed, that I shall not dwell upon this subject. 
 
 I must, however, ol)serve, that of the city itself 
 and its streets and houses, I was not much ena- 
 moured. V'L'wed from the summit of San Christoval, 
 one of my ele. :ited stations l)ehind the city, the whole 
 couji d'a^il was splendid in the extreme. Lima was 
 but like a chess-board on the table beneath us; the 
 
 I 
 
 
198 
 
 J'ilRUVIAN DEWS. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 ■ w 
 
 ' '.'1 
 
 
 i 
 
 I'hurches, cathodrals, &c., resembling the pieces. 
 The stream of the Rimac swept silently round its 
 walls, and soon lost itself in its meandering course 
 to tiio sea. Our interest w^s more peculiarly ex- 
 cited by the castles of Callao, with the colours of 
 l*eru, biddinp^ defiance to her enemy, whilst the 
 shij)s of war c France, America, and Phigland, with 
 their brood oi merchant vessels, lay deriding the 
 assumed blockade. On the west was the island of 
 Lorenzo, and to the southward the range of Morro 
 SohiT and bay of Chorillas. 
 
 Between the 21 st and 24th of June, the customary 
 term observations for magnetism and meteorology 
 were completed; but, although the transit instru- 
 ment had been in the meridian for eight weeks, 1 
 was unable to obtain the moon during the whole 
 interval. Tlie temi>erature during our stay, (from 
 .1 une to August,) ranged from G()° to 79°, the mean, 
 buried four feet beneath the earth's surface, being 
 74°. 
 
 It is asserted that it " never rains at Lima." 
 In discovery ships, or vessels on scientific research, 
 ihii law is "believe nothing you htiv\ and only half 
 you see." I knoiv I lieard very heavy pattering, and 
 1 smv heavy streams issuing from toj)S of houses and 
 traversing the streets. The Peruvian dews, how- 
 ever, wliicli afford the j)revalent moisture of the 
 season of our visit, are rather heavier than our 
 "Scotch mist," an<l tliispr()l)ably is more the visitant 
 of Callao, where I did not witness hca' v rain. 
 
 ii '-'^ 
 
1838.] 
 
 CANYETE. 
 
 190 
 
 It is strange that at a port wlure vessels are 
 constantly undergoing repairs, heaving down, &c., 
 not a copper bolt or nail (except sheathing) can ho 
 procured, and the marine stores in general are of a 
 very inferior quj.Mty. The supplies of beef, vegeta- 
 bles, &c., for the ships of war ought to be good, 
 but it is absolutely necessary to be a little scientific 
 upon this point, and to be satisfied that the contract 
 is duly fulfilled. 
 
 On the 17th of August, having refitted as far as 
 the resources of the place would admit, I quitted 
 Callao, in order to examine the coast between Cerro 
 Azul and Callao,a distance of sixty miles. We readied 
 and anchored in the bay of Canyete on the 12th, 
 and, after some doubt about the rollers, succeeded 
 in landing, and delivered my letter from the Peruvian 
 government to the chief authority, a military com- 
 mandant, (corporal,) who affected monstrous import- 
 ance, and intimated "that the change of government 
 rendered any document authorising my pursuits 
 mdl ; but that courtesy amongst Caballeros of coui*se 
 ]>ermitted my doing as I pleased." A conclusion to 
 vliich he plainly saw that I had already arrived be- 
 fore this last senteiice, .and his magnificence shortly 
 oozed out. 
 
 The state of the country, and the specimen I had 
 Just witnessed, together with duties which tied me 
 to the beach, prechidc*! my visiting the country. 
 
 Cerro Azul, or tlie port of Canyete, is an open 
 bay, in whidi landing at all times is very precarious. 
 
 \y 
 
 I 
 
2(M) 
 
 ASIA ISLAND. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 ;!i I 
 
 But the nature of tlie coast .iffords threat facility for 
 constructing a breakwater, which would render this 
 bay more deserving of the name of port. In its 
 present state they contrive to embark sugar, which 
 is produced in tolerable (juantity in the fertile 
 valleys of Canyete. These I overlooked from 
 my station on the summit of the Cerrc Azul, or 
 about three hundred feet above the sea-lend. The 
 town or village consists of one house, one church or 
 chapel, and a few huts, arranged on three sides 
 of a S(juare, the fourth open to the sea, with other 
 straggling huts, amounting altogether to about 
 tAventy. 
 
 Cerro Azul is a high, bluff, insulated clumj), pro- 
 jecting into the sea, and at a short distance might 
 be mistaken for an island. Its predominant colour 
 is yellowish red. 
 
 Tiiere are no objects of interest ))etween tliis and 
 the Asia Islands, which are distant a few miles 
 northerly, and are merely a ])atch of high rocks 
 projecting about two miles to seaward, from a very 
 flat sandv beacli, liavinsf a clijiimel carrving four 
 fathoms, but well stud<led witli rocks, which by 
 dayliglit are easily avoided. Asia I'eak is situated 
 
 latitude VI' 47' S., longitude 70° 34' W., and its 
 /sland is al)ont lialf a mile long by a (juarter l)road, 
 having no vegetation. There is good landing in a 
 very snug bay on its eastern side, where a seal 
 tislierv lias aitparentlv been carriecl on at times. 
 
 Helwee'i v (>rio A/ul and Asia Island the coast 
 
 t X 
 
 i Hi: 
 
 I '■ ' M * 
 
1838.] 
 
 SALINK SOIL. 
 
 LM)1 
 
 is (laiif^erous, and landing generally impracticable, 
 but the lead will always afford timely warning. A 
 little to the northward of Asia Island is a deep bay, 
 but neither here nor at any point, until reaching 
 Chilca, could we find landing ; although we wen* 
 informed that this could be effected at the river 
 Mala. We did not see the river, nor anything like 
 one. It was possibly screened by the surf 
 
 Chilca Point forms a sharp elbow in the land, 
 making a very deep bay, in which a small town was 
 noticed. A remarkal)le i>oak, called Devil's Peak, 
 rises about three hundred feet perpendicularly, and 
 forms the eastern limits. Northerlv from Chilca 
 Point three miles, lies tho port of Chilcji, formed by 
 a large island, which enables vessels of small 
 draught to lie in a complete dock, land-locked, the 
 outer harbour having good anchorage in ten to four- 
 teen fathoms.* 
 
 A small village of huts, with a chapel, is situated on 
 the eastern beach of the inner harbour, and is appa- 
 rently merely the resort of fishermen. The people, 
 l)robabIy mistaking us for Chilians, had deserted 
 their huts. Tlie whole soil is so entirely impreg- 
 nated Avitli salt, tliat every stone has an incrusta- 
 tion of pure white crystalline salt on it, and in 
 many cases I noticed that it cemented the stones 
 together to a thickness of four inches, sctlid salt. 
 This, of course, is of great importance to the fishery, 
 
 '' lli-r Majesty's ship President, iV »iii ii ti'aci:ij: sii[>i»lie(l, an- 
 chored at this port. 
 
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 202 
 
 UNSAFE COAST. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 but a sad drawback to the beamen who may seek 
 for water in this neighbourhood. A road runs 
 through the valley of Chilca to the town in the bay 
 before mentioned, where bright green tints afforded 
 assurance of fertility. 
 
 Between Chilca and Chorillas no landing on the 
 coast could be effected, but I succeeded in gaining a 
 l)osition on the Great Pachacan.ac, an island of about 
 four hundred feet elevation, from whence 1 com- 
 manded a view of twenty miles around. These islands 
 are situated immediately off Lurin, and about two 
 miles from the beach. The whole space between, up 
 to the point of Morro Solar, is unsafe. 
 
 Between the Pachacamac Islands and the main 
 our shipping have resorted for anchorage. 
 
 Lachira Bay, under the point of Morro Solar, 
 (liaving been named as the rendezvous for British 
 ^ihipping, should the blockade of Callao be main- 
 tained,) became my next point of interest. Its 
 character is summed up in few words. The bay 
 is open, landing bad, (if practicable,) and anchorage 
 untenable and even dangerous ; in proof of which 
 we left there the fluke of our anchor. 
 
 On the 25th of August we returned to Callao, 
 having been absent eighteen days, out of Avhich 
 twelve were employed in the survey. 
 
 Lima had fallen into the hands of the Chilians. 
 The revolution in Peru had for some time been 
 talked of, l)ut so openly, that those unaccustomed 
 to such cliuiiges did not credit that any actual mea- 
 
1838.] 
 
 REVOLUTIONARY MOVEMENTS. 
 
 203 
 
 surcs wore in contemplation. General Nieto, an old 
 officer under Gamarra, and then off the port in the 
 Chilian fleet about to besiege Callao, had, it aopears, 
 held a communication with Gamarra, assuring him 
 that on the retirement of the Bolivians (which he 
 and Orbegoso would effect) and appearance of the 
 Chilian fleet, they would throw off the yoke of the 
 Confederac^ion, and declare Peru free. 
 
 The Chilians being slow in their arrival, and fear- 
 ing that their measures might be counteracted by 
 the party of Santa Cruz, Orbegoso and Nieto, eight 
 (lays previous to their appearance, (8th of August,) 
 threw off the mask, and entered Lima with four 
 thousand men, when the Confederation was de- 
 clared dissolved. 
 
 General Miller, who held the castles of Callao, 
 was requested to reir^ain ; as was also Moran. The 
 latter indignantly refused, carrying with him all the 
 Bolivians, which thus effected Nioto's first manoeuvre. 
 General Miller, rather than uselessly shed Peruvian 
 blood, resigned the castles, and retired to the south, 
 to watch the interests of Santa Cruz. 
 
 On the 5th of August, the Chilian fleet, consistin;;, 
 of ten vessels of war, and twenty-six transpor' s 
 arrived, and anchored out of gunshot. Garrido, the 
 C'hilian minister, landed, and proceeded to Lirna. 
 This was to gain time, having been apprise^ tl at 
 their landing would be warmly opjwsed at C.ilhio. 
 Tlie fleet, therefore, repaired to A neon, landed the 
 
 ■ 
 
 I! 
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 ( ■■ 
 
204 
 
 RATTLE OF LIMA. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 ■if 
 
 
 I" 
 
 ! I 
 
 ■i. 
 
 troops, aiul puslied their picquets to the Boca 
 Ne«,^ra Ijcfore night. 
 
 On the arrhal of the Cliilians they declared, 
 " that they did not come to make war against Pern 
 })ut against Santa Cruz," and wished the Peruvian 
 army to join them, but upon conditions Avhich tlie 
 hitter couM not accei)t. 
 
 On the 8th the Chilian army, five thousand strong, 
 landed and advuneed three leagues on the road to 
 Lima. Garrido, having no credentials to j>resent, 
 retired to the Chilian cam[). 
 
 The l*eruvians under Nieto and Orbegoso, amount- 
 ing to two thousand men, encamped two leagues 
 from Lima, in the direction of Ancon. 
 
 From the 9th until the IGtli, invtended endeavours 
 were made to conclude a treaty <>f ])eace, during 
 wliich interval the IVruvians received an accession 
 of force, consisting of two hundri'd men under the 
 c(mnnand of General Yidal. 
 
 On the 18th the Chilians occu])ied the position of 
 La Legua, half way on the road ])etween Lima and 
 Cailao ; the IVruvians retiring into Lima. 
 
 Hostilities commenced on the 21st. The Chilians 
 advanced towards the N.W.side of Lima, where they 
 encountered the Peruvians ; the engagement com- 
 meiu'ing at four p. m. 
 
 Much hard tigliting ensued, and the Chilians, it 
 is said, would have been rej)ulsed had not General 
 Lovola anti Colonel Saldeas l»v Nieto's orders, it is 
 
 ji 
 
 1 •! \ i. 
 
1838.] 
 
 CIHLUNS KXTEIi LIMA. 
 
 'li)'} 
 
 rc'|»ortt'(l, withdrawn t\w cavjiliy, and saciificod thv 
 iiifjmtrv. 
 
 At six the Cliiliaus rntoivd Lima hy tlit' bridge, 
 and at oiglit liad possession of the town. 
 
 In this alfair tlie Cliilians h)St tliree lumdred 
 killed, and iiad three hundred wounded. The IVru- 
 vians tliree hundred killed, two hundred w< auded, 
 and three hundred |trisoni'rs. During- the night, 
 \ieto, who «lid not enter the action, and who is 
 accused of deserting his party, entered Calhio castles, 
 followed l)v seven hundred inthntrv. 
 
 Orbegoso, who is re]>orted to have behaved well, 
 and was the last man to quit the bridge, retinal 
 three leagues to the south with the cavalry, an«l 
 Vidal remained to tlie north of Lima, collectinu' 
 stragglers. 
 
 Previous to this, the Chilians l)y sea co?r .m-iiced 
 firing <m the castles of Callao, and cut out the sloop 
 of war, Socabaya. The i>rig Fuudadora was scuttled, 
 to [)rovent her shai'ing the sanie fate. This was 
 merely a proof of their sincerity in the non-declara- 
 tion ()f war ! 
 
 On the entry of (Jamarra with tlie Chilian trooj)s, 
 they sung Viva el IVru, &c.. declaring tliat they did 
 not make war against it I 
 
 On the iJtJrd, two thousand Chilians approached 
 the castles of Callao, which were defended by 
 Colonel Guarda, with six hundred artillerymen and 
 sailors, and seven hundred infantry, but Nicto was 
 without authoritv. At this momejit we retiniied. 
 
 I, 
 
 III! 
 
 ill 
 
 
20G 
 
 FEMALE CIUIIOSITY. 
 
 [18:}H. 
 
 I 
 
 I ( 
 
 Kl ,! 
 
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 and the preceding statonunit was kindly aHordt'd nic 
 by a friond who k(q)t notes of tho prot'0('din<rs. At 
 tlie moment of our departure we liad observed the 
 Chilian fleet bear up for Ancon. 
 
 A cabihlo was now lield, and Orbegoso (absent) 
 named president. D. M. Salazar was then nomi- 
 nated, but declined the honour. A mock com- 
 mittee was then sent to Gamarra to recjuest his 
 compliance, when, after much pressing, he accepted 
 the command, and was, I am informed, hooted in 
 the palace. 
 
 On the 27th, having obtained passports from both 
 parties, I passed through the belligerents to Lima, 
 where I found everything so quiet that I could 
 hardly imagine war had taken place. Some of tlu^ 
 ladies I visited had witnessed the action, from the 
 Miradores, on the summit of the houses, and had 
 seen the unfortunate infantry lanced like sheep, on 
 the desertion of their own cavalry. All were loud 
 in abhorrence of the treachery and cowardice of 
 d.eir leaders, and I am satisfied that had the com- 
 mand been entrusted to the softer sex, a very differ- 
 ent tale would have been told. 
 
 By some strange freak of nature, the ladies of 
 Lima seem to jjossess all the courage and energy 
 of mind which should animate their jirotectors, and 
 are dreadfully inveterate against any of their male 
 relatives who arc found wanting in the proper 
 quantum of spirit, — using the strongest language 
 witliout hesitation. 
 
1«38.] 
 
 I'AYTA. 
 
 2(^7 
 
 On tli(! iii^lit jircvious to (»ur (l('i)nrtiir(', Nit't<», 
 lijit'iu'iitc, uiid othors, ombarkod mi liojinl Jiscliooiicr, 
 tlio ottiocrs ill the castlt'S (k'cliiiin^', >vo understood, 
 to allow tlieiii to roiuaiii. It was stroiioly iv|»ort('d 
 that Nicto was eiiibaikcd iu the Suli)liiir, which our 
 immediate departure seemed to confirm. 
 
 Heartily sick of the occurrences at Callao, &c., 
 and nothavin*^ had opportunity for enjoyment either 
 of the country or the customary gaieties of Lima, \\c 
 (juitted Callao, (not, however, without regretting- 
 many excellent and estimahle friends,) and shajK'd 
 our course for the llorinigas, where I was fortunate 
 enough to land the morning following, and secure 
 its position beyond any chance of future dispute. 
 (Chrononeters to the same second.) 
 
 From thence we started for Payta, where we 
 anchored on tiie night of the 2nd September, and 
 on the day following secured our position. I'roni 
 Mr. Higginson, our worthy vice-consul here, we 
 obtained every assistance and information, and en- 
 joyed ourselves much during our short visit. 
 
 Payta is an excellent position for suj)plies of 
 catth?, vegetables, or table necessaries, but, unfortu- 
 nately, does not abound in wood or water, for both 
 of which payment nmst be made, and that exor- 
 bitant. 
 
 We were fortunate iu obtaining here some excel- 
 lent cordage, which is rather scarce on this coast ; 
 very probably that exchanged by some of the wliale 
 ships which frequently touch here for supplies of 
 
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Il ' ^ 
 
 208 
 
 I'L'NTA ESl'ANOLA. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 stock, und inon^ piirticulurly tlio Hwoot potatoc, 
 wliicli is ail excellent anti-scorbutic. 
 
 Quitting" Payta on the 4tli, avo anchored off I'luita 
 I'iMjtanola, in the islan<l of I'lina, at hIx a. m. on the 
 niorniiiij of th(5 ()th. This is tlie sununer resiik'iice 
 of Mr. Cojic, our consul to the Equador, ami where 
 ships of war usually anclior ])reviou8 to passing' up 
 the river to (juaya([nil. At this point also our 
 stores and j)rovisions, left by II. M. S. Cleopatra, were 
 by his kindness housed in his own warehouse. 
 
 ill i l-'l' 
 
 •1 
 Ml 
 
 
CHArTKIi IX 
 
 IVocooiI to (iiunyn(|nil in pig — Liidios dl nnnyn(|iiil — nonpral 
 Wrif^lit's cxctirsioM to llodcgas — (Jcncrnl I'lorcs — lintalioyn, 
 Hull fip;ljt — Alligators — Iklsas, Onnoa «1p piooa — Snuihorodon 
 — Sulphur drops down the river — Hani r calls at I'inm — 
 (^apturi! of an alligator — Handsome rondnct ol" Govcrnuicnt of 
 K(|uador — Return to I'auania — Visit Yslas del Ucy — ^Vitnl ss 
 pearl-diving operations — Arrivid of dcspatrlies — Sjiil (or 
 Kealejo — lleaeli llealcjo. 
 
 < 41 
 
 1 
 
 li; 
 
 Vol. t 
 

 v\^ 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 
 I.I 
 
 2.0 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.25 
 
 1.4 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 /A^;^ I 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0 
 
 (716) 872-4S03 
 

 ^o 
 
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 210 
 
 VISIT MR. COPE. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 !1! 
 
 CHAPTER TX. 
 
 Mi 
 
 ■i: t. 
 
 I ■ I 
 
 11 
 
 As Mr. Cope was absent at Guayaquil, I pro- 
 ceeded by the morning tide in my pfi**", accompanied 
 by Kellett, and reached his house in time for break- 
 fast, when we were received with all the warmtli 
 and hospitality for which lie is so iustly famed. 
 Although a great invalid, his activity of mind soon 
 set aside all infirmities, and, breakfast ended, he 
 insisted upon accompanying us to call upon the 
 governor and military commandant. General Wright. 
 The latter relieved our good friend from further 
 labours that he would willingly have persisted in, 
 and took us the customary round of visits to the fair 
 goddesses of Guayaquil. 
 
 I had heard the beauty, affability, courtesy, &c., 
 of t'\e ladies of Guayaquil rapturously extolled, and 
 was certainly prepared to admire, and bow to 
 general report. I have seen l>eauty, too, in our own 
 country ; but the extreme formality there exhibited 
 certainly cast a film over my eyes which shaded their 
 perfections. 
 
[1838. 
 
 1 838.] 
 
 (iUAYAQUIL LADIES. 
 
 211 
 
 yaquil, I pro- 
 !f, accompanied 
 ;imo for brcak- 
 11 the warmtli 
 
 iustly famed. 
 
 of mind soon 
 'ast ended, he 
 
 all upon the 
 
 neral Wright. 
 
 from further 
 persisted in, 
 
 its to the fair 
 
 [courtesy, &c., 
 
 extolled, and 
 
 and bow to 
 
 |o, in our own 
 
 lere exhibited 
 
 sliaded their 
 
 We were received by tlie ladies in state, seated 
 m\ a sofa or throne, in front of which a large carpet, 
 or S(|uure rug, was spread. Eti({uette forliids ap- 
 j>roa('h witl\in the limits of the Imrder. 
 
 Their complexions, from never exposing them- 
 selves to the sun, are certainly very superior to 
 those of the Limanians, whoso brunette tint, viva- 
 cious spirit, and dark, full, speaking eyes, are infinitely 
 more likely to endanger an infmction of the second 
 commandment. 
 
 I undei'stand that the male relatives of these 
 Guayaquilanean heroines have declared a civil war, 
 upon the question of being ke])t at such a distance, 
 and of rendering such absolute homage. 
 
 Our time was fully occujned in embarking our 
 stores, &c., and refitting, until the 25tli September, 
 when I carried the ship up to Guayaquil to embark 
 coals, and complete other necessaries. 
 
 As our worthy consul had some affairs of import- 
 ance to talk over with General Flores, previous to 
 his journey to Quito upon an important official 
 mission, and as it was not only right, but prudent, 
 that I should become acquainted with the future 
 president, as well as greatest general of the Equador, 
 I determined upon accompanying him, to pay my 
 respects, and such ceremonies as my ship, from her 
 distance, was prevented from showing. 
 
 Our party, consisting of the consul. General 
 Wright, Lieutenant Kellett, Mr. Hinds, assistant- 
 
 surgeon, Mr. 
 
 Richards, midsliipnian, and myself, 
 
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 212 
 
 GENERAL FLORES. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 quitted Guayaquil in our pinnace on the evening of 
 the 1st Octol)er, for Bodegas, and reached th(.' house 
 of General Flores on the evening following. Great 
 rejoicings, &c., had just terminated, on the occasion 
 of the saint's day of his wife, who jdso had just been 
 confined of a daughter, who was christened Victoria, 
 in honour of our queen. All, therefore, was in con- 
 fusion, but our reception was as warm as could bo 
 wished, and Wr treatment princely. Having brought 
 up our saluting chambers in the pinnace, they were 
 landed innnediately below the general's house, where 
 the Ijoat's hull was hidden, and the colours of the 
 Equador being displayed at our top-mast head, a 
 salute of fifteen guns was fired, which shook the 
 surrounding houses, and startled their inhabitants, no 
 pendant having before been displayed or salute fired 
 in Bodegas. The general, who instantly compre- 
 hended the compliment, expressed himself very 
 warmly on the subject, through Mr. Cope. 
 
 General Flores is about thirty-eight, slight, but 
 remarkably well proportioned ; his countenance is in- 
 telligent and inquiring, and he appears to have studied 
 hard to master every subject which reading and con- 
 ference with men of science could assist him to. 
 For this country, he certainly is an extraordinary 
 man, and when it is recollected that for his \alour 
 alone he has been designated by his republican 
 countrymen " The first citizen of the Equador," 
 and is now about to resume the presidentship for 
 the second time, it Mill readily be imagined that 
 
\n 
 
 1838.] 
 
 HIS ESTATE. 
 
 «/ 1" 
 
 more than ordinary activity and intelligence ninst 
 have been his jiassport. 
 
 General Wright, (an Irishman,) who was also his 
 companion in arms under Bolivar, and sul)se([uently 
 served under General Flores, distinguished himself 
 in Mina Rica, and several other actions. He as- 
 sisted much in rendering our visit pleasant, and 
 draAving out the general, who delighted in con- 
 versing on the various subjects of machinery, steam, 
 &c., which he hoped to introduce, at his own ex- 
 l)ense, into this country. 
 
 On the second morning we made an excursion 
 through his estate, which is well stocked with 
 cattle, and has been cleared to a very great extent 
 by the dependants of the general, who being for the 
 greater part old soldiers who had served under his 
 innnediate eye during the war, preferred living on 
 his bounty, and doing their best to merit his protec- 
 tion. We breakfasted at a very neat and roomy 
 ftirmhouse, about three miles from his mansion, 
 where the viands, &c., had been previously for- 
 warded. 
 
 We noticed great numbers of birds of fine plu- 
 mage, and shot several very interesting specimens, 
 which were added to our collection. In the after- 
 noon we crossed the river to the town or villaon 
 of Batahoya, which contains about two hundred 
 houses. These, owing to the lowness of the situa- 
 tion, and occasional swelling of the stream, are 
 generally elevated on legs, about six or seven feet 
 
 i| 
 
 
 
214 
 
 nULL FKSIIT. 
 
 [183H. 
 
 j^- < 
 
 
 iibove tlic f^nuiiid. I am told that at times thoy 
 visit in ])()ats. 
 
 The novelty of a bull-fight was the principal in- 
 ducement to this visit. I am not at any time mucli 
 interested in such matters, but the i)rescnt exhibi- 
 tion was entirely devoid of interest. The animals 
 were not disposed to be excited, nor were the 
 actors particularly anxious to display their prowess. 
 
 But to return to the farm : when the general i)ro- 
 ceeds to Quito to assume his functions as civil 
 magistrate, the house, farms, and sugar-mills, will be 
 transferred to his present aid-de-camj). Colonel I'onti, 
 who will pay a rental of 10,000 dollars per annum 
 during the four years of his presidency. But I 
 nmcli doubt that the same content or success will 
 result, under a less vigilant and popular man than 
 the general. The dependants who cheerfully earned 
 their subsistence under his control, will now ref|uire 
 wages; and to support so large an establishment 
 will very soon strain the proceeds below the means 
 of paying so large a rental. 
 
 After experiencing the most marked civility from 
 our kind host, and gji earnest request that our 
 intimacy should not end here, we parted, greatly 
 delighted with our excursion. 
 
 Our passage up may be said to have been ahnost 
 in the dark ; I omitted, therefore, to dwell upon the 
 river and its banks. 
 
 At the present season the tides flow within nine 
 miles of Bodegay, and therefore the ascent is easy ; 
 
 I M . .1 K I 
 
 K I 
 
[183H. 
 
 IULSA8. 
 
 215 
 
 but ill the rainy season I am informed the freshes 
 are very strong, the stream frequently rising so far 
 above the ordinary level as to flood the streets of 
 Batahoya, and tlie farm-houses on the banks. The 
 liouses, constructed as before noticed, are therefore 
 only tenanted on the first floor, and appear like bird- 
 cages on legs. 
 
 The river is fresh as low as Guayaquil, (and even 
 lower ;) but the water even there is not considered 
 fit for consumption ; consequently, the greater part 
 used for drinking is brought down the river in 
 earthen jars, containing about seven gallons each. 
 These are compactly packed on Balsas, — which are 
 rafts constructed of ten logs of wood, from twelve 
 to fourteen inches in diameter, and sixty feet in 
 length. The wood used for this purpose, a bombax, 
 has obtained the name of balsa wood. They are 
 calculated to bear a pressure of fifteen to twenty 
 tons, independent of the men required to navigate 
 them, and to this amount they are generally laden. 
 
 On these Balsas, houses are also constructed, vary- 
 ing from thirty to forty feet in length by twelve 
 Avide, and in such conveyances whole families are 
 transported to Bodegas and other places. These 
 we observed at Batahoya, and we were informed 
 that some continue to make them their residence 
 during their visits from home. Many we observed 
 were thus inhabited, and also I noticed their tenants 
 bathing*; but where alligators are so numerous it 
 must be attended with risk. 
 
 I, 
 
 ii 
 
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 X I'M Kn( )US ALLUJ A TORS. 
 
 [I,s;}.s. 
 
 T IT 
 
 m ^i',. Ml 
 
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 OtIioiN travel more expo msly l>y the canoa 
 • Ic pirca, wlii(!li (Icrivos its name from boiiig a canoe 
 /ttnft, instead of liollowod out of a siiii^do tree. 
 One of tlieso will contain one hundred persons : it 
 is furnished with an arclied housing at the stern, 
 with snfticient sh(dtor for hammocks &c., for one 
 family. They are also used for the conveyance of 
 troops. 
 
 The vegctatiim on the banks of the river is very 
 luxuriant, and studded with small suf»'ar plantations. 
 'I he farm-houses ])erched amongst them appear neat 
 and comfortable, but on a closer inspection, have not 
 nnicli to induce one to seek their shelter. 
 
 Alligators are very numerous ; forty-seven of one 
 swarm were counted before they glided down the 
 mud into the river. None were under ten feet ; 
 they were mostly estimated at fifteen to eighteen, and 
 some were monsters. The peculiar sound, of closing 
 the jaws with a noise resembling cluck, is anything 
 but musical. We were assured that these were 
 iiotlun() to what we should have seen had we passed 
 through the J^^stero do Lagartos, (or Alligator Creek,) 
 that there we should have encountered them in 
 luyriads. 
 
 About noon, it being low water, and the tide 
 against us, we landed, to afford our men time to 
 dine, take a run, aiul regain their wind. 
 
 Here we had an opj)ortunity of noticing one of 
 the small farms, and their tenants, who a])j)oar to 
 be far from easy in their circumstances. Tlieir rude 
 
 .* . I ' 
 
1838.] 
 
 SUOAU MILLS. 
 
 '2X7 
 
 hm one of 
 
 mucliincry for rnisliiii^ tlio cano, sufTiciontly donotos 
 their want of ingenuity and exertion amongst tlieni- 
 selves; at the same time it becomes very apparent 
 what enormous advantages wouUl accrue from the 
 introduction of machinery and engineers. In the 
 loss of tlie example of such a man as General Flores 
 at tliis particular moment, and for a period of four 
 
 years, 
 
 I am induced to fear that the evil results 
 
 here will not be sutticiently counterpoised by his 
 duties to the rei)ublic. There are moments when 
 master minds are imperatively called for to guide 
 the helm of state ; but in quiet times it is jk)s- 
 siljle that such powers might be more beneficially 
 exerted in a smaller sphere; and this too is still 
 more ai)parent when the elevation does not give 
 the command of resources by which such abilities 
 can be called into play for the g«ineral good. 
 
 The rise and foil of the stream itself might very 
 easily be taken advantage of ; mills might be 
 erected on a small scale, and the simplest of their 
 kind would open the road for a greater demand, 
 as well as for those of superior constructioji, — even 
 to steam. The natives are as yet but children in 
 these matters, and until they learn the use and 
 value of machinery as toj/s, the magnitude and com- 
 plication of greater undertakings will deter them 
 from ai)proaching them. 
 
 We shot several varieties of birds, and at one 
 spot, without moving from beneath the same Uvv, 
 no less than ten humming birds were obtained. 
 
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 liiHt 
 
 i m \ 
 
 The flood (li<l not run lonnf, (•oniin<if in and ex- 
 panding* its force almost at a gush ; we, therefore, 
 resumed our j)rogress, and about four passed the 
 town of Sand)orodon, the half way, or restinpf spot 
 from Guayaquil, i>rol)ably from its being the only 
 village where sujijilies for a large party can be ob- 
 tained, as well as the home of most of the boat- 
 men. 
 
 The appearance of the town is improving ; but 
 its iidiabitants being entirely coloured, and not 
 otherwise interesting, we preferred using our best 
 exertions to reach Guayaquil before the change of 
 tide. This we eifected by ten that evening. 
 
 From the foreign consuls, as well as from our 
 kind friend General Wright, we met with every 
 attention, and our affairs at Guayaquil being com- 
 j)Icted, we took leave of them on the 30th, tak- 
 ing with us our good friend the consul, and with- 
 out kedging beat and backed through the 
 narrows without accident, reaching our old an- 
 chorage off Punta Espanola on the morning of 
 the 4th. 
 
 H. M. S. Harrier had called during our absence, 
 on her way to San Bias and the Gulf of California, 
 to collect freight, but only remained forty-eight 
 hours; consequently I had not an opportunity of 
 seeing my good friend Captain Carew. 
 
 By my letters, I found that affairs in Peru were in 
 .statti (JUG at Callao. Nieto, Lafuente, &c. had 
 landed at Payta, and a Chilian force had attacked 
 
 I I 
 
 ^ifil 
 
 i 
 
iFia] 
 
 f'APTURn AN ALLKJATOK. 
 
 21 i) 
 
 it. Tilt' two fonncr rctiivd on ivrciviiinf alxmt 2,(MM> 
 (lolIiiiM, uikI Ii!u1 Jirriwd ut (Jiiayii(|uil lu^foiv our 
 (Icpjirtinv, but uiiiiotieod l)y tlio uiithoritics. Siih- 
 H('(|U('iitly, tlio Cliiliaiis rcfusiiio- all tonus witli tlic 
 iiilitihitantH of Piiira, iiiarclicd a<iiiliist tlicin, beat 
 tlu'in, and afti'i* ca[)ture, l)arbaroiisly murdi'ivd tho 
 captain of tho port of Payta, and committed otlicr 
 
 CXCl'SSOS. 
 
 Our stay at Puna enabled us to collect several 
 varieties of birds, shells, and animals. In one of 
 my excursions, observing an alligator of twelve feet 
 asleep on the beach, and suspecting him to be dea<l, I 
 passed the lead line under his nose and jerked it 
 round his throat, taking the precaution of giving tin* 
 (ttlier end, similarly passed, to two of the boat's crew. 
 Rather to my sur])rlse, he snai>i)ed his Jaws, and 
 made for the water, but a turn of the line round a 
 rock considerably Increased the pressure round his 
 throat, and he was securely taken to the boat. 
 After towing him a considerable time, and believing 
 him to be drowned, we tried to get him into the 
 boat, and had nearly succeeded, when he made a 
 snaj) at the gunwale, and tore a i)ortion of it 
 away. We hnmediately decided that he was not lit 
 society, and towed him astern. 
 
 After having been landed for some time, the boat's 
 crew connnenced the o])eration of skinning lilm, 
 considering him quite dead. Indeed, his stomach 
 had been some time exposed, and the skin hiid open 
 to the tail on both sides, — when by a sudden convul- 
 
22() 
 
 LIUrjeAMTY Ol' Till-: (ioVKUNMKXT. [18^8. 
 
 •If 
 
 J 
 
 ri^l I: 
 
 'X 
 
 sion he HiiiipiH'd liin juws, ami iiicliuUMl Jxith liamls 
 of OIK* of till' crow, (who was sittin^Mni his licad to 
 steady him,) cuttiii^j;' throii<,di st'wral fiii^ers, 1)ut 
 fortunately without injunii<( any hones. The in- 
 stant the country [)eoitU^ saw him tliey excIainuHl, 
 *' I'atoH, patos," — intimating that lie was a well-known 
 connoisseur and purloiner of fat ducks. 
 
 Havinn^ completed our wood, water, &c., we took 
 leavt of our hospitable friend the consul, with very 
 ^•reat rej^q-et, for J am certain there was not a man 
 belonging to our establishment who did not feel his 
 kindness in some shape. We directed our course for 
 Panama, the Starling, as usual, having the Victoria 
 under her wing. 
 
 T cannot quit this jiort without mentioning the 
 very haiulsome conduct of thir, government relative 
 to our stores. On their arrival in II. M. S. Cleopatra, 
 and it being reported that they were iutended for 
 this expedition, (special directions having already 
 been issued to afford us every assistance,) the autho- 
 rities consented to their being landed at Mr. Cope's 
 private stores at Puna, where there is no officer of 
 customs ; and on Mr. Cope's sending the keys of two 
 locks placed on them, they were returned with a 
 very handsome message, and a rebuke to the inferior 
 officer for receiving them. Part of these supi)lies 
 consisted of articles contraband at this port, and 
 these were in very large quantity. 
 
 On entering the fifth degree of north latitude, wo 
 began to experience the rains, the winds at tlie 
 
 1 
 
 •I 
 
 ^ 
 
 kk 
 
 M 'a 
 
 yv.i 
 
 I '4 ' « I ft ' 
 
 . J':, 
 
isns.] 
 
 vsr.As Dr.r. u\]\. 
 
 *J*M 
 
 same tiiiu' lU'cssiiio; us In tlic nistwnnl, wliirli dr- 
 liiycd us (Mmsidcnil)!)'. Vessels nii^lit to endeavmir 
 to reach Point Mala, and <»'o up iK'tween the Oto- 
 ^iies, Taho^i'a, and the main, on tlie western side of 
 the GnU" of Panjuna. I tidnk we lost three <hivs 
 hy not f'olh>win;»' tliat ront«'. On the 17tli we 
 reached Tal)oga, wliere \ hiiKh'd to obtain time, 
 and at twelve tlu* same ni^lit ancliored oH' I'anania. 
 
 In tlie mornin;r I called on our new eonsnl, Mr. 
 Cade, late «d* the Honota mission, hut not findin";- 
 our anticipated despatches, and the mail not hein;*" 
 due until the 20th, I move(l the shi|) to Tal)o<»'a, to 
 ('()nj])lete water, an<l make sun<lry observations 
 wliicli the nion^ frecjuent showers at I'anama, and 
 the distance from the shore, rendered inconvenient. 
 
 On the 24th October, Mr. Cade f(»rwarded our 
 despatches by his servant, sind the day followin<jf 
 we returned to our old anchora<>fe off Panama. Mr. 
 D. Gordon, Mid., of the Starlin<r, having suffered 
 severely from the climate, was sent home by the 
 return mail, witli our gleanings since February 
 1837. 
 
 As it became an object to ascertain the state 
 of the Yslas del liey (now the Islands of Columbia,) 
 and to make uj) my mind as to the selection of 
 stations, should my time admit of connecting them 
 with Panama, I ran over to the island of Casalla 
 where we couhl also witness tln^ ])earl fishery in 
 full activity. Our good friend the consul accom- 
 l)anied us, and we there had an oi)[K)rtunity of test- 
 
i 
 
 222 EXERTIONS OF THE PEARL DIVERS. [1838. 
 
 m 
 
 U i{ 
 
 ■i I 
 
 i-ii 
 
 i:,( 
 
 \ r i 
 
 ■I i 
 
 mg the powers of the most export divers they could 
 produce. 
 
 The depth ou which they usually fish, is about 
 five or six fathoms, the bottom uncen aud rocky, 
 or stony. The boat, in the i)resent instance, hcAug 
 anchored in a tideway, the ])adron commenced hy 
 repeating prayers, in which he was joined by the 
 rest of the crew, amounting to seven. This ended, 
 they divested themselves of superfluities, and almost 
 simultaneously inhaling a long breath, dived feet 
 foremost. 
 
 The average time of immersion ranged from forty 
 to forty-two seconds, and on reaching the surface, 
 tliey had generally seven or ten oysters each, about 
 the size of a cheese plate, packed from the left hand 
 to the left shoulder, four beii^g firmly secured be- 
 tween three fingers and thumb ; all this is effected 
 under water. 
 
 Uj)on offering rewards for those who could re- 
 main longest under water, we were only able at 
 first to witness seventy-six seconds. But after a 
 little practice, the padron remained beneath the 
 surface ninety-six seconds, bringing up seven oysters 
 from the depth of seven fathoms. From what we 
 witnessed of his exhaustion, and the reports of 
 others who repute him their best diver, I am 
 strongly inclined to doubt the suspension of breathing, 
 with power of e-rertioii, for a longer period. 
 
 The fishery is carried on at their own expense 
 and risk; they either sell the oysters, and open 
 
 > 5; m 
 
s. [1838. 
 they couM 
 
 , is about 
 [ind rocky, 
 iico, l)ein,2^ 
 nenced hy 
 led by tlio 
 riiis ended, 
 and ahnost 
 dived feet 
 
 from forty 
 le surface, 
 acli, about 
 13 left hand 
 
 ecured be- 
 is effected 
 
 could re- 
 ly able at 
 bt after a 
 ^neatli the 
 en oysters 
 li what we 
 reports of 
 |er, I am 
 
 ►reathing, 
 
 expense 
 [ind open 
 
 1838.] 
 
 NOVEL GAMBLING. 
 
 223 
 
 tl'.em in the presence of tlio purcliaser, at a real 
 or less per dozen, or take the risk themselves ; in 
 fact, a novel species of gambliu<»- lias arisen, in which 
 many of us indulged without adding to our wealth ; 
 completely the reverse, for many of us, ashamed 
 to have nothing to show, purchased pearls. One 
 exception, however, occurred in the consul's servant, 
 who turned up a prize worth, I was told, about 
 forty dollars. 
 
 I examined the collections of several dealers in these 
 articles, who reside here in readiness to purchase dur- 
 ing the diving season. Some were enonnous, as large 
 as nine tenths of an inch long, by five tenths diameter, 
 but pear shaped, and of bad colour. Indeed, none 
 that I saw would be reckoned fine in England, and 
 amongst some thousand large ones, very few were 
 perfectly round. 
 
 The Yslas del Rey cover about four hundred 
 square miles, and comprise numerous islets, and 
 ])robably thirty or forty fishing villages. The quan- 
 tity of pearls estimated at tl:? season, is about two 
 gallons. 
 
 Having returned to Panama, and landed the 
 consul, we sailed on the 1st of November for 
 llealejo, intending to verify the longitude of the 
 Cocos in our route ; but the heavy rains which we 
 encountered in that direction, added to oppressive 
 atmosphere and tendency to sickness, soon changed 
 my plans, and every effort was made to make 
 northing, and clear these inipleasant latitudes. 
 
 
'"I 
 
 ^l,.t 
 
 li 
 
 1 1^ 
 
 224 
 
 REACH REALIJO. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 On reaching- the latitude of 8° 40' N. the cessation 
 was aljrupt. 
 
 Tlic rains alone are sufficiently unjileasant at 
 anchor ; but the variable winds, calms, squalls, &c., 
 calling for the constant exposure of the crew, added 
 to the wear and tear of stores, are infinitely more 
 harassing than months of heavy work in a dry cli- 
 mate. 
 
 f ■ 
 
 1 ¥' 
 
 ! I 
 
 1 • 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 Realejo— Termination of the rainy season — Quit Realejo and repair 
 to Chicarene — Gulf of Fonseca — Trip to San Miguel — Agua 
 Frio — Reach San Miguel — Start to visit the Volcano — Demur 
 at Chinameca — Return in disgust to San Miguel — Quit, and 
 visit Moncagua — Breakfast — Arrive at San Miguel — The fair — 
 Method of transacting business — Honourable conduct of natives 
 — Run to Realejo — Meet H. M. S. Imogene — Return to Con- 
 chagua — Port of San Carlos — Ascend Amapala— Conchagua, 
 &c. — Pitch observatory under Conseguina — Start with Starling 
 and boats to examine Estero Real — Result — Swarms of Mosqui- 
 toes — Canal question — Volcano of Conseguina — Desolation 
 caused by its eruption — Return to Realejo — A boat upset in 
 a squall — Mr. Speck and a seaman drowned — Sail /or the 
 Gulf of Nicoya. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 Q 
 
; .p * ' 
 
 i\ 
 
 i> 
 
 Jl 'r fi'-i 
 
 i\i\ i ' 
 
 I, f 
 
 • i: !)' 
 
 
 )i 
 
 
 1 1 . -f , 
 
 ' ■ i 
 
 iii 
 
 if; 
 
 n 
 
 ^%'\ 
 
 ! i, 
 
 i f 
 
 il> 
 
 
 I'l 
 i' 
 
 220 
 
 SAN CARLOS. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 On the 14th of November we reached Realejo, 
 where the effects of the rainy season were still aj)- 
 parent, the residents informing us that the season had 
 terminated only on the 4th. The 1st of November, 
 then, may be safely assumed as the termination of 
 the rainy season at Realejo. 
 
 Our stay here was but short, being anxious to 
 commence the survey of the Gulf of Fonseca ; and 
 our consul, Mr. Foster, having consented to accom- 
 pany us, and act as pilot to Conchagua, we quitted 
 Realejo onthe 17th November, anchored off the water- 
 ing-place, Chicarene Bay, at nine on the morning of 
 the 19th, and after obtaining observations on the 
 point, proceeded by boat to La Union, (or San 
 Carlos,) the town of the port of Conchagua, pro- 
 perly so called. 
 
 Here we found seven vessels at anchor, having 
 brought cargoes for the fair at San Miguel, situated 
 about forty miles in the interior, and at the base of 
 the volcano of that name. 
 
 As reports were in circulation that the insurgent 
 Carrera contemplated disturbing the proceedings, 
 
 I 
 
 ■ 4 ! 
 ■■1' 
 
1838.] 
 
 FAIR AT SAN MIGUEL. 
 
 227 
 
 and I moreover, the property at stake being chiefly 
 ]3ritish, I determined visiting the fair in my route 
 to the volcano, which I contemplated ascending. 
 The presence of the consul, officers, and myself 
 might have an influence on his actions. However, on 
 the eve of our departure, I had the satisfaction of 
 learning from San Salvador, that he had been 
 routed by the forces of the President Morasan, 
 and was pent up in the mountains. 
 
 On the 19th, at six i\ m., our party, consisting of 
 the vice-consul, Mr. Foster, Lieut. Wood, Mr. 
 Hinds, assistant-surgeon, and Mr. Selwyn, Mid., 
 commenced our journey on very indifferent animals, 
 the great demand leaving us no choice. 
 
 For the fii'St stage our road lay through very 
 uneven ground, which the darkness did not improve ; 
 and to the discomfiture of our junior, he suddenly 
 found himself, by the failure of his animal at a lea]), 
 " rather ahead of his reckoning," and head downwards, 
 in a pool or brook : he was fortunately extricated 
 without injury. 
 
 It was intended that we should rest " in campo — " 
 the customary mode in this country. But estimat- 
 ing, from the present condition of our beasts, what 
 they might be able to effect on the morrow, under 
 a broiling sun, I determined to push on another 
 league and a half, and rather sacrifice my rest than 
 risk the fatigue of dragging my mule. We, there- 
 fore, moved on and reached Agua Frio at one, 
 and after considerable trouble succeeded in obtaininir 
 
 ti 2 
 
228 
 
 SHOW CATTLE. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 ; I ! 
 
 M ■( 
 
 i\ ■ 
 
 '.M 
 
 : ¥ 
 
 V ^ 
 
 W': 
 
 shelter and supper I believe I was the only one 
 who had a roof over me, but had little reason to 
 rejoice in this particular, as " las pulgas" assured 
 me toll must bo paid for such indulgence. 
 
 About four, our guides commenced saddling, and 
 we were soon once more en route. The tempera- 
 ture during our stay ranged to o()°, and at the mo- 
 ment of starting, we enjoyed, with some few shivers, 
 a fine cool air. 
 
 Our journey now lay through the mountains, the 
 road being tolerable for mules. About nine, we 
 reached the outer circle of the city of San Miguel, 
 which at this period was occupied by a dense belt of 
 about a mile of show oxen, horses, sheep, &c., the 
 oMiiers, drovers, or proprietors, having erected tem- 
 porary houses amongst the trees on either side of 
 the road. Many had brought their beasts to a bad 
 market. 
 
 Here I met my old friend and host of Nagarote, 
 as before alluded to, who informed me that he could 
 only obtain five dollars per head for show beasts, 
 which he could sell at home for six, and this after 
 driving, feeding, &c., upwards of five days' journey ; 
 in this country almost equal to their value. As 
 they came for goods, it is not improbable that the 
 intrinsic returns were of greater value than the 
 hard six dollars. 
 
 Having passed through the cattle fair, and forded 
 the river, which passes about half a mile on the 
 skirts of the town, we entered San Miguel, and 
 
 I •••'■' : V 
 
 "i i: I If 
 
1838.] 
 
 START FOR THE VOLCANO. 
 
 229 
 
 found the heat, dust, and clatter, almost Babylonian. 
 After considerable exertion, and forcing our way 
 through dense crowds by the most circuitous passes, 
 we at length reached the (juarters of our allies, who 
 were just commencing breakfast. As our despatches 
 had not arrived, our appearance was rather a sur- 
 prise, although welcome ; and great bustle and 
 activity were displayed to evince their sense of the 
 addition to the alliance, particularly from our old 
 friend, Mr. Bridge, of Realejo, who little dreamc«l 
 of our re-appearance in Central America, when we 
 took leave of him in March last. 
 
 Having called on the mihtary governor and com- 
 mandant, who received us very politely, and of- 
 fered every assistance in his power, we returned to 
 watch the movements of the fair, and make the 
 necessary arrangements for ascending the volcano, 
 that was majestically towering immediately above 
 us, and ai)parently easy of access. But on this side 
 it is impracticable, and some leagues nmst be tra- 
 velled to gain its rear at the only point at which it 
 has ever been attempted with success. 
 
 The governor, having assured me that there was 
 not the slightest difficulty in the ascent, and that 
 not long since an Englishman had succeeded in his 
 attempt, ftirnished me with an order to the alcalde 
 of Chinameca, six and a half leagues distant from 
 San Miguel, directing him to furnish guides, men to 
 clear the road, and to afford us every assistance. 
 Thus duly prepared, we started with light spirits on 
 
230 
 
 AHRivK AT c;minami-:ca. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 r? i 
 
 I'l 
 
 ', !■ 
 
 'H, 
 
 '■■3 
 
 Itl 
 
 the morning of the 23r(l ; our party, Lieutenant 
 Keliott, Mr. Hinds, and myself. 
 
 Passing through the village of Guelai)a, two 
 leagues, and Moncagua, three leagues from San 
 Miguel, we entered Chinameca by a very steej) 
 descent at four in the afternoon. 
 
 Tlie view descending this most picturesque valley, 
 induced us to believe that the volcano might easily 
 be ascended for some distance by mules. 
 
 A rather ominous delay prepared me for difficulty. 
 A council of the village was summoned, and after 
 their deliberation, the alcalde, ranging them before 
 us, acquainted us that the road had been closed, 
 and entirely broken up and choked by the last terra 
 motu ; that it could only be opened at a great ex- 
 1^ mse and delay ; and he threw such further olj- 
 stacles in the way, that I clearly foresaw I could 
 not rely on him or his agents ; and as days were 
 ages to me in value, I determined to employ my 
 time to more advantage, by returning to the city the 
 instant our beasts were in condition to move. I 
 was still further disappointed by the difficulty we 
 experienced in obtaining food for our beasts or 
 ourselves, or even the common civilities affi^rded to 
 travellers. 
 
 About midnight we remounted our mules, and 
 after losing our way several times, at length reached 
 the village of Moncagua at sunrise, where we were 
 more fortunate in obtaining an excellent breakfast 
 in the style of the country, consisting of eggs, tor- 
 
 .1:1? 
 
 .f 
 
 m\. 
 
 !,i 
 
1838.] 
 
 rXDIGO TRADE. 
 
 231 
 
 tillos, chocolate, cheese, and milk, to which we did 
 ample justice ; and about ten reached San Miguel, 
 much to the ast(mishment of the party we had left 
 to watch our motions, who were anxiously straining 
 their eyes, and frequently waving our signal-tlag, 
 momentarily expecting to trace us on the outline of 
 the volcano. 
 
 The governor assumed the feeling of chagrin 
 (which no doubt he felt in his way) at the conduct 
 of the alcalde, but I could plainly trace an apathy, 
 which satisfied me that his power over him gave 
 him no right to resent such uncourteous reception 
 as attended his letter. 
 
 Our attention was now directed to the city, and 
 the great ftiir then at its meridian. 
 
 San Miguel is situated on a plain at the base of 
 the volcano, which suddenly springs on this side to 
 its apex ; and is surrounded on its other sides by 
 ranges of five to six hundred feet above its level, 
 entirely excluding ic from any prosi)ect beyond 
 their outlines. There is nothing in the city itself 
 which calls for remark, and its consequence arises 
 principally from the fairs held here for the purpose 
 of transacting the indigo trade. 
 
 The fair at this season is that of most importance, 
 as the " settling period,'" and may be compared to any 
 of our great English fairs divested of their amuse- 
 ments and trifles. The visitors, however, in this 
 case, come not only from the remote points of 
 
'2{i'2 
 
 THK FAIR. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 I'' 
 
 UBh 
 
 fi i 
 
 Central Aiiiericft and Mexico, but also fiom Southern 
 America, as low as Valparaiso, and even from 
 Euroj)e. 
 
 The great scjuaro, houses, and streets, are all 
 closely occuj)ied by booths, &c., containing every 
 species of goods exposed for sale, and it was not 
 without some degree of satisfaction I observed that 
 the majority of qapital Mas British. A few French 
 light goods and trifles occupied some of the booths, 
 but Manchester, Birmingham, and Sheffield carried 
 the day. 
 
 The method of dealing throws some light on the 
 character of these peoi)le, and the risks annually 
 incurred. Goods to a Large amount are given on 
 account, to be paid for in indigo, at a certain period, 
 generally the meeting of this month. 
 
 Indigo varies considerably in value, numbering 
 from one to nine and ten, and at this meeting its 
 currency is determined. Thus, the actual bargain is 
 completed, by the payment in current indigo at this 
 fair for goods supplied last year. 
 
 At this moment, when the states have divided^ 
 when they acknowledge no supreme authority, and 
 when might may be right, — what volumes does this 
 confidence adduce for the general probity of these 
 dealers, who are men too not always above the 
 middle classes — mere peasants. 
 
 On the cholera visitation, as might have been 
 anticipated, losses did occur; but one or two noble 
 
 ii :i 
 
I 
 
 [lb38. 
 
 Soutliorn 
 k'en from 
 
 , arc nil 
 ug every 
 . was not 
 rved that 
 ^v French 
 e booths, 
 d carried 
 
 it on the 
 annually 
 given on 
 
 in period, 
 
 umbering 
 acting its 
 bargain is 
 ro at this 
 
 divided^ 
 
 )rity, and 
 
 does this 
 
 of these 
 
 bove the 
 
 ive been 
 wo noble 
 
 i.H38.] 
 
 SEI'AKATION OF THE KTAIKS. 
 
 '2'3\i 
 
 
 
 traits of Just feeling are also mentioned, where the 
 payment was cheerfully and duly made by parties 
 not legally liable. 
 
 Where such innnense )»roj)erty is at stake, it is 
 generally considered necessary to turn out the 
 military, and during day and night sentinels jiarade 
 the square and main streets. After nine o'clock no 
 one is permitted to traverse the streets without au- 
 thority ; and although the main scpiaro is occupied 
 by at least one-third pulperias and gambling booths, 
 where they also sleej) en masse, I never M'itnessed 
 so little noise or disorder in any part of the world. 
 
 Having mentioned the separation of the states of 
 Central America, I will give a slight sketch of their 
 present condition. 
 
 About a year ago disturbances conmienccd, having 
 for their object the removal of the President Mora- 
 san. A short time afterwards, Carrera, the leader 
 of the insurgent })arty, made head, and inculcated 
 the idea of the separation and self-government of 
 the several states, with greater personal freedom. 
 
 This has certainly taken effect, and the states at 
 present separated comprise San Salvador, (with the 
 I)resident,) Guatemala, Honduras, Costa Rica, Ni- 
 caragua, and lately Los Altos, of which Quesan- 
 tenango is the chief city. 
 
 Each state is responsible only for itself, or is in 
 fact at present headless. Costa Rica and Nicaragua 
 are preparing to resist Morasan, or even to pursue 
 him ; but this will never take eflect. Under such 
 
 -# 
 % 
 
234 
 
 (.'ONCHAdlA. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 ir ■ 
 
 I' ! ' 
 
 l!!':! !'■' 
 
 ! I 
 
 ! ! 
 
 govcniinont the ajjpoul to law is futile ; a decision 
 ill favour of an a|»|»ei!aiit was a<ljouru(Ml sine die, 
 as I lately \vitnese«l at Kealejo, and nothing Imt 
 a liint of stron/:, T measures lijvely to ensue on tlio 
 j)art of (ireat Mritain, l)rou^lit tiieni to their senses. 
 The appellant was a British subject, and Jud<ifment was 
 given in his favour /uforc the separation of the states. 
 
 On the 25th, we set out on our return to San 
 Carlos, situated on the south side of the port of 
 Conchagua, and better known by that name. Tlio 
 site of the port is l)adly chosen, as the difficulty in 
 landing at all times is great, and at low water 
 nearly ini[)ossible ; during strong northerly winds the 
 communication is frecjuently cut oft' for days, in- 
 dependent of unsafe holding-ground for 8hipi)ing. 
 Near Chicarene this might have been entirely 
 avoided. 
 
 The port is entirely land-locked — in fact a com- 
 plete inland sea. 
 
 The actual town or village of Conchagun, from 
 which the port derives iis name, is situated about 
 three miles up the Amapala mountain, or extinct 
 volcano, immediately over San Carlos. The selec- 
 tion of this spot is said to have originated in the 
 piracies committed on this race of Indians by the 
 buccaneers. They were then located on the islands 
 of Conchaguita and Manguera, situated at the 
 mouth of the ;;,ulf. They then fled to this secluded 
 spot of Conchagua, which is destitute of water, that 
 necessary of life being daily carried up in calabashes. 
 
 1 
 
1838.] 
 
 AS<*r.NI» AMAI'AI.A. 
 
 2'Xy 
 
 TIjc Iiuliiins arc? rntluT a wcU-tomuMl rare, and of si 
 li^Hitor cost of oountcnanoo and niildor iiianncrs 
 tlinn their iioipfli hours. 
 
 Our next excursion was t<» the vok'ano of Ania- 
 ])ahi, Hituatcd iinniodiatcly ahove the port, and which 
 has hccn extinct heyond memory or tradition. About 
 four intiieeveninnr()fthe2()tii,Jiieutenant Kellett an<l 
 myself quitted San Carlos, and reached Conciia^ua 
 al)out ei^ht. The road beiuf*- very steep, how the muleo 
 contrived to pick their way, I am at a loss to 
 imagine : by daylip^ht it was no easy task. Having 
 procured guides and calal)ashes of water, we con- 
 tinued our ascent until ten, when having reached a 
 position sheltered from tlie strong winds then blow- 
 ing, we took uj) our «j[uarters in the grass until day- 
 light, when we recommenced our journey, reaching 
 the highest pine point about seven. As this did not 
 suit for a trigonometrical station, we shifted to a 
 j)eak, overlooking and commanding a view of every 
 point in the gulf. Our o])erati(m8 on the summit 
 were uninteresting, excei)ting in a magnetic point 
 of view : they are recorded under that head. No 
 remains of volcanic agency are to l)e traced ; and it 
 is probable that its conical form alone assigned to it 
 the appellation of Volean de Amapala. At its 
 l)ase, in Chicarene Bay, incrustations of sulphur and 
 muriate of soda were observed, as well as several 
 thermal springs, the temperature of the hottest af- 
 fording 196" in the steam, and 212° in the jet. 
 Bottles of this water were preserved. 
 
230 
 
 KXAMIXE KSTEUO REAL. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 ■1 11 
 
 Tlio result of our Usironietric uieuHurcniont g.avc 
 the Peak of Auuipala three thousand ei^ht hundred 
 feet above luean-tlde level. The temperature on 
 the summit at sunrise ()3°, that at San Carlos being 
 80°. 
 
 On the 30th of November, wo returned to 
 Realejo to rate our chronometers, where we met 
 her Majesty's ship Imo^ene, at the moment of her 
 dej)arturt^ for San Bias, having been some days on 
 the look-out for us. The letters brought by her 
 were not of interest, being duplicates of twelve 
 months date. 
 
 After an absence of only forty-four hours, we 
 reached our anchorage again in the gulf, and vi- 
 gorously prosecuted our survey, which was uninter- 
 esting in detail. At the term day, we i)itched our 
 observatory near the sea margin, at the base of the 
 volcano of Conseguina or Quisiguina, and having 
 completed the reipiisite observations, started with 
 the Starling and boats, to explore the Estero Real, 
 which I had been given to understand was navigable 
 for sii'tif miles ; in which case, from what I had seen 
 of its course at my visit to the Viego, it must 
 nearly communicate with the lake of Managua. 
 After considerable labour, we succeeded in carrying 
 the Starling thirty miles froin its mouth, and could 
 easily have gone further, had wind permitted, but 
 the prevailing strong winds rendered the toil of 
 towing too heavy. 
 
 We ascended a small hill about a mile below our 
 
 !^ 
 
 r. K 
 
1838.] 
 
 SWARMS OF MosQurros. 
 
 237 
 
 cxtrcmo position, from which aii^U's woro tsikon to 
 Jill the Hurroiindin^ ])Oi'iks. From tliut Hurvt'y, mhU'd 
 to what 1 romarkod from tlio summit of the Viojo, 
 I am satisfied tliat tho stream eouhl liave hoon fol- 
 h)wed many miles hi^Hier, and 1 liavo not th(j 
 slightest doubt tliat it is fed very near to the hike 
 of Manaj>ua. I saw the mountains beyond tlio hike 
 on its eastern si(h*, and no hind iiiglier than tlie in- 
 tervening trees orcnrrech Tliis, therefore, wouhl lie 
 the most advantageous line for a canal, which, l>y 
 entire lake narif/ation, might be connected witli tlie 
 interior of the states of San Salvador, Honduras, 
 Nicaragua, Jind extended to the Atlantic. Thirty 
 navigable miles for vessels drawing ten feet, we can 
 vouch for; and the natives and residents assert sixty 
 more : but steamers will be absolutely necessary to 
 tow against the prevalent breezes. 
 
 Our men began to suffer severely from the bites 
 of mosquitoes, which, after the day's toil, prevented 
 their obtaining rest ; and the lofty trees on the 
 banks impeding any further efficient explora- 
 tion towards the source, we commenced our survey 
 downwards, which, aided by tlic strong breezes and 
 tide, I was enabled to execute, from tho Starling's 
 foretop-gall.int yard, in six hours. 
 
 I cannot comprehend why, with these plain f^icts 
 to lead them, (and I know of many clever residents 
 amongst them, none more so than Mr. Bridge of San 
 Antonio,) so much time and money should have been 
 ex[)ended in searching for other lines of comniuni- 
 
;fi!i 
 
 "i 
 
 BV' 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 i;i.:^ 
 
 
 V 
 
 
 238 
 
 CANAL QUESTION. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 cation, when nature points out that this should first 
 have been attempted. It is possible our sworn 
 enemies the mosquitoes may have something to 
 whisper in the affair ; but this is of trifling importance 
 to residents. I am satisfied that they wouhl have 
 disappeared as we advanced. It is rather a curious 
 fact that it was directly in this vein to windward 
 that we were attacked on our journey to Moyotepita 
 in March last. The evil, I must candidly allow, is 
 of sufficient importance to our service to mar it 
 entirely. The caprices of seamen are at times too 
 strong to be controlled, and in the present instance 
 one could not work with satisfaction, knowing that 
 those around were suffering even from such diminu- 
 tive enemies. Zeal may carry heads of departments 
 through incredible difficult os, and even make them 
 smile at them, but it cannot be looked for in the 
 uninterested subordinates. 
 
 Setting aside, however, the canal question, or 
 communication between the Atlantic and Pacific, 1 
 am satisfied that steam communication with boats of 
 light draught, by this Estero, that of Honduras 
 leading behind Tiger Island, as well as that above 
 San Carlos towards San Miguel, (vide chart,) 
 is of sufficient importance to justify the primary 
 attempt, as a feeler, in order to ascertain what ad- 
 vantages may result to the greater undertaking. If 
 these branches cannot supply shipping at Conchagua 
 with exports, or meet the exigences of internal traffic, 
 what is to repay the " canal adventurers ?" In their 
 
1838.] 
 
 VOLCANO OF CONSEOriN'A. 
 
 231) 
 
 present state of disunion, discord, and internal con- 
 vulsion, without funds, or responsible heads, the 
 question must for a time sleej>. 
 
 But to return to our survey, and the volcano of 
 Conseguina, which nearly all of our establishment 
 had visited, and which has become of some importance 
 to this neighbourhood, from its occasional emissions 
 of dust, ashes, and water. The verge of the crater, 
 which is half a mile in diameter, is elevated about 
 three thousand eight hundred feet above the mean 
 level ; thence the interior walls fall perpendicularly to 
 a depth of about two hundred feet, when the bottom 
 of the crater becomes flattish, with a small transparent 
 lake in its centre. Vapour was plentifully emitted 
 from its sides, and frequently jets of smoke rolled 
 out, ascending, in calm, to a great height. The 
 whole surface, after commencing the ascent, was more 
 or less pervaded by sulf)hur springs, and in some 
 places, even to its outer crest, was swampy from 
 thermal springs. In one of the jets Mr. Hinds (our 
 assistant surgeon) found the temperature at 212°. 
 
 Externally no outlet presented itself by which the 
 floods which had deluged the low lands could have 
 escaped, unless this huge caldron boiled over ; and 
 in such case the disruption of the soil would have 
 been even more terrific than the utter desolation 
 which prevailed. The ground would then have been 
 torn into deep channels or ravines, instead of the 
 distinct inclined planes for many hundred yards. 
 
 It is true that at its base numerous pits were 
 
i 
 
 •1 
 
 
 'H f 
 
 1^ 
 
 tl t 
 
 Mr 1 ! 
 
 ■,l 
 
 ii 
 
 III 
 
 ill* 
 
 
 ri/M: 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 i' 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 •I 
 
 ; I i! i 
 
 til 
 
 
 
 ■■■■: ^ 
 
 240 
 
 CONSEGUINA. 
 
 [1838. 
 
 observed, which have probably been sulphur springs, 
 and which were even now moist and incrusted with 
 sulphur, from which the vapour still continued to 
 ascend. The beds and sides too of the torrent courses 
 were studded with small cup-shaped excrescences, 
 evidently so many diminutive jets formed by the 
 escape of the gas from the bubbling fluid, some being 
 incrusted with sulphur, and others containing nume- 
 rous balls about the size of peas. 
 
 The aspect of the ruins, extending over one entire 
 side of the mountain, (for nearly three miles,) was 
 truly awful — its contemplation indescribable ; deso- 
 late beyond conception. 
 
 From the first spring of the mountain not a vestige 
 of verdure could be traced. Huge trees stood, bark- 
 less, bleached, or scorched. Others of the largest 
 forest kind were uprooted and strewed in wild dis- 
 order, as if washed by an ocenn force into the channels 
 by which the floods descended ; but the whole surface, 
 excepting these courses, presented, in a gradually de- 
 scending slope of two miles to the beach, that clean 
 even line observable in loose sandy slopes. 
 
 This evenness doubtless resulted from the fall of 
 ashes and dust, which first filling the cavities, had 
 then been smoothed by the water, or, subsequently, 
 by the winds. It was evident, by the great masses 
 of charcoal found embedded, as well as from trees 
 half charred in the soil, that fire had preceded. On 
 digging at our position, about ten feet above high 
 water mark, we found the same loose soil and ashes 
 
 
li 
 
 1838.] 
 
 CONSEGUINA. 
 
 '241 
 
 (chiefly fine pumice) at the depth of four feet and 
 a half^ and without any traces of original soil. 
 
 The surrounding ocean appeared to have partaken 
 of the catastrophe ; not a shell was obtained in the 
 immediate vicinity by the dredges — nothing, in fact, 
 but clusters of ashes, in w^^ich the sabella had formed 
 their habitations. 
 
 On the eastern slope we noticed a very singular 
 quadrangular elevation, of about twenty or thirty 
 feet, which was at first mistaken for the base of an 
 old crater. It was probably some building of the 
 aborigines, possibly the walls of a village, intended 
 for defence against the buccaneers, and at that period 
 doubtless well screened from observation by the pre- 
 existing forest. 
 
 On the extreme east a torrent had cut through a 
 mound opposing it, to the depth of forty feet per- 
 ]3endicular,its stream appearing to have flowed towards 
 the sea. In this region the vegetation appeared to 
 flourish with great luxuriance, and a strong stream 
 of very sweet but almost tepid water flowed into 
 the sea. 
 
 No aperture in the volcano corresponded to these 
 courses. From the extent of the course, the strength 
 of this stream implied an underground force ; and the 
 water was also observed oozing through the soil in 
 several other spots. The whole coast in this vicinity 
 was so strongly impregnated with saline matter, as to 
 incrust projecting stones or sticks with chloride of 
 sodium. It could not be traced far inland, by reason 
 
 VOL. I. R 
 
242 
 
 ERUrTTON OF 1835. 
 
 [183H. 
 
 i- •:!'; 
 
 i^-: <i 
 
 !. n 
 
 ' « 
 
 I I ( 
 
 ; i r? 
 
 ! 'i 
 
 of the thick underwood. It is a curious fact that 
 this water, although flowing through briny l)cds, 
 was particularly delicious, and as I suspected that 
 our thirst might deceive us, I caused a cask to be 
 preserved and bottled. It kei)t better than other 
 water, and preserved its purity ; it contained no 
 foreign substances, as it was evaporated to dryness 
 without residue. 
 
 The last and awful effort of this volcano occurred 
 on the 20th of January, 1835, and is thus recorded 
 in the Journal Oi the estate of San Antonio, distant 
 about sixty miles : 
 
 Jan. 20th, 1835. " This morning we observed 
 the volcano of Conseguina (anciently called Quisi- 
 guina) vomiting an immense column of smoke and 
 flame. At nine a. m. we 'experienced a very heavy 
 shock of earthquake ; the night following five shocks ; 
 and during the 21st we felt several, accompanied by 
 noise resembling distant thunder, but known here as 
 (in Spanish) * retumbo.' On the 22nd the ground 
 at day-break was covered with ashes or fine sand, 
 which still continued to fall ; darkness and continued 
 roaring of the volcano prevailing. 
 
 " At one on the morning following a very heavy 
 shock of earthquake was felt ; at six, another, but 
 slight. 
 
 " On the 23rd, day broke, the fall of ashes and 
 sand having increased ; the morning was very dark. 
 However, at nine the same morning the fall of ashes, 
 &c. continuing, it became darker than the darkest 
 
 HlN :, 
 
;i83H. 
 
 it that 
 hods, 
 d that 
 : to be 
 L other 
 uhI no 
 dryness 
 
 ccurred 
 
 ecorded 
 
 distant 
 
 ►bscrved 
 1 Quisi- 
 L)kc and 
 -y heavy 
 shocks ; 
 nied by 
 here as 
 ground 
 e sand, 
 ntinued 
 
 k heavy 
 [her, but 
 
 lies and 
 
 iry dark. 
 
 |of ashes, 
 
 darkest 
 
I 
 
 fi 
 
 ! 
 
 i 
 
 !l ' I 
 
 r ! 31. 
 
 i 
 s 
 s 
 
 ti 
 b 
 
 sc 
 
 be 
 pi] 
 
 ani 
 
 not 
 Co] 
 
 J 
 
 , i . ! 
 
 ■iiM 
 
1838.] 
 
 TIMBER, MINERALS. 
 
 243 
 
 nig-ht, and eontiniuMl so until throe v. m., when it 
 cleared a little so as tob-^ a))le to distinguish objects, 
 as you may during a moonlight but cloudy night, 
 everything on this estate being covered with ashes 
 to the depth of about five eighths of an inch or more, 
 the atmosphere at the same time being charged with 
 a powerful odour of sulphur and noise from the 
 volcano, attended with thunder and lightning, re- 
 sembling the roar of the sea during a violent gale of 
 wind. At twelve o'clock this day, and at the darkest 
 period, innumerable birds sought shelter in the house, 
 supposed to be attracted by the lamps." 
 
 The whole of the desolate region before alluded 
 to was, before this event, rich pasture ground, and 
 abounded with some of the finest cedars, particularly 
 the Cedro Real. The beach at present was thickly 
 strewed with bleached timber, rendering the asjjoct 
 still more dreary; indeed the painter might have 
 taken a hint for " after the deluge " from the scene 
 before us. 
 
 Amongst these trees and drift timber we found 
 some cedar; which was applied to useful purposes. 
 
 Very good timber, both mahogany and cedar, may 
 bo obtained in this gulf ; and from the forest range, 
 pine if required, but rather of a knotty description. 
 
 In the mineral kingdom none but volcanic tufas 
 and sulphur were noticed. 
 
 Of animals our list is but small. Deer were 
 noticed, and were said to abound on Manguera, 
 Conchaguita, and Tiger Islands. Rabbits, and 
 
 u 2 
 
244 
 
 ALLKJATOKS, UIHDS, &('. 
 
 [1h:)s. 
 
 • ai 
 
 k^m- 
 
 s(|iiirrol,s ^v'tli tlio suldition of jackulls, may roiiiplctt' 
 the list. Jinlln('l<s und other stock are easily i)roeured 
 at Sail Carlos, and prices moderate. 
 
 On one occasion, I had ocular j)roof of the pre- 
 sence as well as the vigilance of an alliufator. T 
 had fired at and killed some wild ducks, one of which 
 fell on the o])posite side of a p()nd. One of the 
 boat's crew went in quest of him, but during the 
 time that he was seeking for a pole to hook it out, 
 the i)oor fluttering bird was put out of misery by the 
 sudden sua]) of the jaw of an alligator. It was fortu- 
 nate that the lad did not wade for the bird, or he 
 might have chanced to take its place. 
 
 Wild turkeys were shot for the table, and several 
 handsome varieties of small birds for the collection. 
 
 In conchology several rare shells (particularly the 
 tellina burnetti) were taken ; but this gulf is very 
 poor in respect to quantity or variety. 
 
 On the 3()th of December, having completed our 
 examination of this gulf, we moved outwards, to con- 
 tinue our coastline to Realejo, and on the 01st com- 
 menced the survey with a light off-shore breeze. 
 We had proceeded about twenty miles along the 
 coast, when we suddenly shoaled our water and 
 grounded ; the ship had barely got her head off shore 
 when a squall assisting us, she dragged off. 
 
 During the operation of reefing topsails, we observed 
 the Victoria let fly all her sheets in a squall, and not 
 being able to see the pinnace, (under the command 
 of Mr. Colin Speck, mate and assistant surveyor,) 
 
 n^^ : 1 
 
JyiJD.J 
 
 TIIK I'INNACK ri'SKT, 
 
 L>45 
 
 supposed tliatslic liiul micliorcMl too)»tuiii ohscrvjitioiis. 
 A suspicious unoiisiuc'ss of tii" si^nuij-uiiui cjiusimI mh' 
 to scud iiiui to tlic niast-hciul to Huil licr; aud uot 
 succocdiu^jf, I despatched Keljett in tlie \ ictoria, to 
 rejoiu the Starliu<>^, aud look for her, proceeding- ou 
 with tlie slup to llealejo, theu iu si<>cht. 
 
 On the folh)\viu<,' nioruiuff, Jaiuiary 1, IHIJO, tlie 
 Victoria rejoined, and I |)lainly foresaw was the 
 beari'r of had tidings. She reported that the pinnace 
 hud capsized in a s(|uall, aud tliat Mr. Speck, mate, 
 and J. Grant, seaman, had been drowne(h 
 
 It appears that she was taken by a roller under 
 the lee, at the same instant that the squall occurred, 
 aud her stone ballast (which [ had taken out of her but 
 a few days])efore,l)ut which had been replaced without 
 my sanction) shifting', occasioned her loss. Mr. Sjieck, 
 aud Grant, Lamphier,and White, seamen, made for the 
 shore, which the two latter readied ; but Mr. Speck 
 observing the ship reefing, thought he was seen by 
 her, and swam back to the boat, but having exhausted 
 himself by taking a barc^a to supjiort him, was unable 
 to hold on, although assisted for a considerable 
 time by the coxswain. He at length gave himself uj), 
 and sank in one of the eddies following the rollers. 
 
 The story is strange and improbable, as he was an 
 excellent swimmer, of great courage, and, as before 
 noticed on the Libertad affjxir, was the person who 
 volunteered, and succeeded in effecting the connnu- 
 nicatiou with the shore. 
 
 The Starling inmiediately despatched her b(»ats 
 
240 
 
 SAD L088 OF MK. SPECK. 
 
 [\H'M. 
 
 !'*;■: 
 
 through the surf, and Hucceodcd in oxtricating the 
 boat and inon, with whom sho roturnod on th() 
 cvoning of tho Ist. 
 
 Til is lainontalilc miHfortunc tlirew n p^rcat gloom 
 over all, aH Mr. Speck was a general favourite. To 
 niyHelf the loss in every resjiect was particularly 
 severe. Ho had been gradually schooled under my 
 own eye, had adopted my habits, and in j)x'oof of my 
 satisfaction, I had bestowed on him the appointment 
 of assistant surveyor; a situation which necessarily 
 (uitai Is confidence and fellowship. Added to this: 
 he was the last of my retinue from whom I could 
 expect the assistance I so much needed. 
 
 After remaining at Uealejo to recruit and rate 
 the chronometers, we quitted on the 8th January, 
 1839, for the gulf of Nicoya. 
 
 The Starling was despatched to look after a rock 
 rejiortcd by an American at Realejo ; but, as usually 
 hai>pens w ith such reports, it was not found where 
 stated to exist. Next to the reality, the position 
 where it does not exist may guide navigators ; and 
 for this purpose track-charts have been rigidly 
 attended to. 
 
 r ii^; 1. 
 
 '\i 
 
 • I 
 
 r.1 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Survey of tlio Gulf of Nicoyn — Its capabilities— Examine Bay 
 of IFoiula — Quibo — ttcoeivc despatclics at Panama — Future 
 niovomonts — Sail for tlic Sandwich Islands — Revisit Cocos 
 Island — Examine Clipperton Rock — Anchor at Honolulu — 
 Disposition of the kinj; towards us — Funeral of Kinau, the 
 King's aiuit — The king and suite visit the Sulidiur — Mis- 
 sionary influence and operations — The islands less frequented 
 — The Orphan School — Rapid decrease of the po{)ulation — 
 Exports and productions. 
 
 \\ 
 
248 
 
 aVLV OF NICOYA. 
 
 [IKVJ. 
 
 CHAITEU XII. 
 
 t' 'i 
 
 m 
 
 i\' 
 
 On the 14tli we anchored off the islands of San 
 Lucas and Pan d'Azucar (sugar-Ioafj ) opposite to 
 " Punta Arenas," by which ap})ellation seamen 
 generally understand the Gulf of Nicoya. 
 
 Punta Arenas was formerly the port of this gulf 
 in the state of Costa Rica; but interested parties, 
 whose property lay near to Calderas, about five 
 miles southerly, on the eastern side of the 
 gulf, managed to have the port or custom- 
 house officers, &c., shifted thither. It is very un- 
 healthy, almost fatal, to all new residents ; and the 
 higher authorities take care to excuse residence. 
 
 As our occupations kept us vigorously to the 
 beach, the interior was not visited, and the village 
 of Calderas only by Lieuc. Kellett. 
 
 Our time from the 14th of January was almost 
 a blank, as regards matter of record. We appeared 
 to have lost sight (?f civilized beings entirely, and 
 even the natives rarelv croi-^ed our track. The 
 
1831).] 
 
 PltODUCTIONS. 
 
 •J49 
 
 interest of exi)loriiig' this seldom visited gulf lielj)ed 
 to keep up the excitement, and on the 17th, hav- 
 ing completetl our UiboTirs, we moved towards 
 Panama, at which j)ort all our thoughts centred, the 
 hope of letters and immediate rc^^urn to Englan(' 
 being probably predominant. 
 
 Fire-wood, water, cedar timber, bullocks, and 
 oysterH are to be obtained ; tlie latter in banks dry 
 at low water, above V^enado, on the western shore ; 
 bullocks, either at Arenas, Calderas, or Verugate, 
 on the western shore ; water at San Lucas, or 
 better and more easily at Ilerradura Bay, where 
 the casks are rolled into a small lake at flic beach, 
 and vessels may safely ride close to the shore, 
 by veering the whole cab'e with a warp to the 
 beach. Wood may be cut anywlicre by the crev., 
 or more easily jmrchased at Caldeias or Punta 
 Arenas. 
 
 Our first halt was at the mouth of the Santiago 
 or Pueblo Nueva, at the island called jVIagnetic Is- 
 land, in March, 1837. Here we recommenced our 
 survey of this river, following its branches up tor 
 some distance. The river takes its name from a 
 small village, situated on the river Santiago, where 
 the Spaniards probably first appointed the seat of 
 government. The port is formed by a neck or 
 island about three miles in length, which affords 
 good anchorage for vessels of any class. Three 
 larger streams discharge themselves into the main 
 basin at tlie western end of this island, where tlie 
 
 I 
 
i •■■!' 
 
 *i,'i 
 
 i ;! 
 
 a'! ill . . 
 
 ■ 
 
 ■',1 .' > 
 
 h;. 
 
 250 
 
 BAY OF HONDA. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 apparent great entrance is situated, but so studded 
 with rocks and shoals, as to be unnavigable for 
 anything- larger than boats. It is in fact an exten- 
 sive archipelago, as most of the region towards the 
 Chirique territory will be found to be on future 
 examination. 
 
 A plan was made, which will prove interesting 
 to those who may visit this port for refuge or refit ; 
 but water cannot be procured in any quantity. It 
 may probably be found by digging wells. The 
 natives generally appeared alarmed at our presence, 
 nor could we induce them to bring oif supplies. 
 Had our visit been prolonged, no doubt this would 
 liave boen dispelled, as after we fell in with a negro 
 who understood English, they appeared anxious to 
 sell pigs, poultry, &c. 
 
 Their principal article of trade is the sarsaparilla, 
 that of this neighbourhood being esteemed of supe- 
 rior (luality. The stream runs fresh at some miles 
 up, but we did not either meet it, or succeed in 
 finding the town. Sugar-cane of good quality was 
 ottered, and tortoise-shell, one of their articles of 
 trade, can be procured at the season. 
 
 On the 4th March, 1830, we moved on to Baija 
 Honda, another of our stations in 1837. Here we 
 fell in with a few Chirique Indians sent to clear 
 the land ; but they also were very much afraid of 
 having any dealings with us. 
 
 We found this to be a most capacious, safe, and 
 convenient harboiu", completely landlocked and per- 
 
 
1839.] 
 
 LAND ON QUinO. 
 
 251 
 
 )arilla, 
 supe- 
 miles 
 ed in 
 was 
 es of 
 
 Baija 
 Ire we 
 
 clear 
 Lid -.f 
 
 I, and 
 
 per- 
 
 
 fectly adapted for refit, heaving out, &c., there being 
 no tide or current. Water was in abundance at the 
 beach, and nothing wanting but a town and civiliza- 
 tion to render it a favourite resort ; timber of 
 every kind, and the best abundant. The islands 
 at its entrance are beautifully adapted for defence, 
 with but trivial labour. At this port we col- 
 lected a large stock of parasitic plants in full flower, 
 which continued to decorate my cabin for some 
 time, until forwarded to England, where they ar- 
 rived in forty-two days in good order. 
 
 Having heard much of Quibo and its advantages, 
 I fully intended examining its bays, and for this 
 purpose ranged along its eastern coast, until we 
 found an indentation answering to one of our re- 
 ports. Our soundings, however, decreased so ra- 
 pidly from thirty-three to fifteen and aground, that 
 we had sufficient occupation for the time in heaving 
 off, in which we instantly succeeded by the Star- 
 ling letting go both her anchors a short distance 
 astern, and veering until she got our coasting cable 
 fast, when we slipped off the bank as easily as she 
 had glided on, the bottom bein^- yielding sand. 
 
 H'^ving landed, and obtained observations for 
 fixing the position, we proceeded to examine the 
 inlet, which proved to be merely an estuary, the 
 sand-banks not having more than six feet over 
 them, extending about two miles to seaward. 
 
 Nothing of sufficient interest inducing further 
 (iehiy, we bore up for Panama. The currents 
 
1^52 
 
 HECEIVE DESPATCHES. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 J, 1 
 
 if 1.1 
 
 V 
 
 
 setting us strongly to tlic southward, we were com- 
 pelled to stand over to the eastern shore, and work 
 up between the Yslas del Rey, or Pearl Islands ; 
 and it was not until tlio 14th, about midnight, tliat 
 we anchored at Taboga. On the following day we 
 received our despatches from our consul at Panama, 
 and in the evening ran to Panama. 
 
 Nothing interfering with my stated intentions, of 
 an earlier period, b(!ing contained in these de- 
 spatches, T found that we must give up all idea of 
 returning to England, and with an increase of energy 
 make up our minds for another examination of the 
 N. W. coast of America and the Californias. 
 
 I immediately resolved on i)roceeding direct 
 to the Sandwich Islands, refitting, and moving north, 
 to save all the available season. As another mail 
 was daily expected, I determined on waiting for 
 any particular instructions, and employing the interval 
 in completing the work of this bay. 
 
 On the 2Gth the mail arrived, but as there were no 
 letters for the Sulphur, we took leave of our Panama 
 friends for the last time, and that night (piitted for 
 at least ten more months of suspense — at all events, 
 that period must intervene before we could reach our 
 desi)atclies at San Bias. 
 
 The period of the rainy season was now approach- 
 ing, and many unpleasant colds, and a species of 
 influenza, attacked the greater number of us ; added 
 to which a very i)eculiar and distressing kind of 
 prickly heat was prevalent. 
 
 :fe 
 
1830.] 
 
 DKSKUTKUS AT COCOS ISLAND. 
 
 
 Our course was directed towards Cocos island, 
 but the variable winds and rains of this region delayed 
 us considerably. We made the island on the Otli, 
 but on the day following" at noon, enveloped in 
 heavy rain, we were not more than ten miles from 
 our anchorage. At nine we anchored, all heartily 
 anxious to escape a rainy season in our present 
 jaded state. An American whaler, according to 
 their praiseworthy habit of assisting any friend in 
 view, sent her boats to assist in towing the Starling 
 to her anchorage ; but we were too far out to par- 
 take of her aid. 
 
 On the morning following, I landed to obtain 
 observations, and the early ]iart of the day certainly 
 led me to anticipate all I looked for, but noon 
 destroyed my hopes, the rain falling in a complete 
 deluge. I succeeded, however, in obtaining the 
 requisite data, and also witnessed the effect of the 
 heavy rains on the streams ; converting a very quiet 
 brook into a turbulent rapid in tlie course of a very 
 few hours. 
 
 On my last visit, I mentioned that three men 
 were left behind by an American whaler. These 
 had remained a considerable time on the island, but 
 were eventually taken off by another whaler ; not, 
 however, without poisoning the minds of part of 
 her crew, two of whom were induced to try a simi- 
 lar experiment, and were now almost reduced to 
 starvation, notwithstanding the presence of their 
 countrymen. The master, however, assured me of 
 
254 
 
 (lUATIFYTNCS KXPKRIMENT. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 < !!, i 
 
 'I , , 
 
 i ^, ! 
 
 '; 
 
 h'" 
 
 ;t ' ' 
 
 i i i 
 
 Ins intention of giving them a passage to Payta, 
 the lesson of the former characters leading him to 
 assume severity to the last moment, as a warning 
 to his own, as well as to tne crews of other vessels. 
 
 Of the seeds i)lanted by me just one year since, 
 I had the satisfaction to find that the pumpkins 
 were in a fair way to overrun the island, the pre- 
 sent whaler having collected fifty ; the vines were 
 also at this period ftill of flower and young fruit. 
 Of the other seeds, I fear that the hogs and rats 
 destroyed them. This, however, did not prevent 
 my sowing a fresh stock, and covering them well 
 with stones. 
 
 At sunset we quitted this island. On the 11th, 
 about nine p.m., we noticed several luminous bands on 
 the surface, which upon examination proved to be 
 shrimps, with their detached ova :* the latter having 
 the power of a very rapid whirling motion, by the 
 protrusion of their legs, &c., similar to the lepas, 
 and emitting in their progress fluid phosphorescent 
 tracks, like diminutive meteors, as if produced by an 
 oily matter. White tern and a turtle were also 
 noticed. 
 
 Light variable bafiling airs prevailed, not allowing 
 us to make more than fifty miles per day. It is 
 certain that the currents in this region vary consider- 
 
 * Respecting these mistermed ova of the shrimp, I am in- 
 <luced,from having noticed them in all stages, and taken them up 
 to the size of a pea in the eastern seas near Ceylon, to consider 
 them a distinct crustaceous object not described. 
 
 U-Vi 
 
 m A i 
 
1839.] 
 
 SITE CLTPPERTON ROCK. 
 
 255 
 
 ably; this wc have ourselves witnessed. That a 
 strong easterly current must prevail, our current 
 bottle of 1837 will exhibit. The master of the 
 American whaler we met at Cocos, who seemed 
 superior to the generality of his brethren, informed 
 me that previous to reaching the island on the 8th 
 May, " he had experienced the strongest N. W. set 
 he had ever noticed in these seas." 
 
 The existence of Clipperton rock, or its attendant 
 dangers, not being a clear point amongst navigators, 
 determined me on steering for it, either to verify, 
 rectify, or obliterate it from its assumed position. 
 That I did so, will probably be deemed fortunate, 
 for the extent of its dangers was certainly unknown 
 to us. Yet to day only, 8th May, 1889, have we 
 made it one month from the Cocos, or about 13G0 
 miles direct. 
 
 At dawn, the rock was discovered by the Star- 
 ling and ourselves, at nearly the same instant, then 
 distant about fifteen miles, and presenting, owing 
 to the sun's rays playing on its nearest face, the 
 appearance of a brig close hauled. Unfortunately, 
 the light baffling airs of the last month, accom- 
 panied by rain, which have worn our gear as well 
 as patience nearly threadbare, prevented our doing 
 anything effective towards its survey until after 
 noon, when the weather cleared, and sun and wind 
 favoured our operations. The name, Clipperton 
 Rock, certainly misled us, and had we made the point 
 at night, with a fair wind, would, almost inemtaUy, 
 
 
 Ml 
 
25(1 
 
 EXAMINK THE LACJOON. 
 
 [1H39. 
 
 m 
 
 ,,; 
 
 I"': 
 
 !|.i M' 
 
 
 8J-: ; ". 
 
 ,1 ,l 
 
 lijivo sovoroly damajQ^od or destroyed both vessels. 
 I certainly should have steered to pass it to the 
 northward ; merely assuming it to be a solitary rock. 
 
 Nothing in this name could lead a seaman to ima- 
 gine a high rock, placed on the southern e0.ge of 
 a coral lagoon island, three miles long N. and S., by 
 the same east and west. 
 
 Its description should stand thus : a very danger- 
 ous low lagoon island, destitute of trees, with a high 
 rock on its southern edge, which may be mistaken 
 for a sail. 
 
 This rofk can be seen fifteen miles. In thick 
 weather the low coral belt, which appears like sand, 
 will not be distinguished until close to it. The 
 breakers on the eastern side do not afford sufficient 
 warning for a vessel to trim or change course. 
 On the northern part of the belt, the land is a little 
 raised, and appears to be clothed with something like 
 grass. 
 
 There are two entrances, which at high water 
 may be safe ; but at the moment we passed, the 
 surf was too heavy, and the reflux showed the rocks 
 bare. The high rock is situated in latitude 10 °17' N., 
 longitude 109° 19' W., the dangers from it northerly 
 extending two miles easterly, and the same north- 
 westerly. On the beach several large trees were 
 observed, and an object which was thought to be 
 part of a vessel near the western opening. 
 
 In the centre of the lagoon, as viewed from the 
 mast-head, there is one large hole of blue water, and 
 
 i' :)l 
 
stjy. 
 
 1839.] 
 
 NUMEROUS sEA-niiins. 
 
 257 
 
 issels. 
 
 the 
 rock. 
 
 ) ima- 
 ige of 
 S., by 
 
 anp^er- 
 a liigh 
 istakeii 
 
 1 tliick 
 e sand, 
 
 . The 
 ifficicnt 
 
 course. 
 
 a little 
 ing like 
 
 li water 
 led, the 
 le rocks 
 
 In?' N., 
 
 irtherly 
 
 north- 
 
 es were 
 
 to be 
 
 rom the 
 
 ter, and 
 
 a second belt is connected with rock, attaching it 
 to the eastern side of the ishmd. This literally 
 constitutes two islands, formed by its two ojienings ; 
 both are on the weather side of the island. 
 
 No living trees were seen, but the whole island 
 was covered with gannet, booliies, frigate pelican, 
 and several kinds of tern, which had also been 
 noticed in great numbers during the last week, 
 at least five hundred miles to the eastward. From 
 this an easterly current may be inferred, as these 
 birds generally keep in its stream or tail course.* 
 
 No bottom was obtained by the Sulphur with one 
 hundred fathoms of line, but the Starling had sound- 
 ings with less than one hundred on the northern 
 side. 
 
 Sharks, porpoises, and turtle, were observed to- 
 gether. The former annoyed us much by biting at 
 our patent logs, for which one was taken, and made 
 an example of. They were very large, and literally 
 swarmed. In all probability they were attracted 
 by a shoal of file, (balistes,) and other small fish, 
 which had been feeding off our copper since quitting 
 the island of Cocos. 
 
 On passing the meridian of Cape San Lucas, the 
 true trade reached us. On the 19th of May, in 
 latitude 13° 45' N., longitude 124° SC W., the Star- 
 ling was despatched by a different route, to seek for 
 
 * It does not follow, therefore, as a matter of course, as no- 
 ticed by some writers, that the appearance of birds denotes land 
 to windward ; they are more likely guided by tide. 
 
 VOL. I. S 
 
 
'2r)8 
 
 tra(;k omskuvations. 
 
 [18IU). 
 
 y'. 
 
 mm 
 
 'IH 
 
 "D '1 
 
 ;;! 
 
 tho ^'oup of islands so frocjueiitly roportetl to lio 
 between 10° jind 17' N., and VSCf to 138" W. ; 
 ourselves taking a course to intersect former routes, 
 l)y wliicli means that portion of the world will have 
 been i)rctty severely tested by the Blossom, Sulphur, 
 and Starling. 
 
 As I believe our method of eonductinp^ such 
 investigation, and indeed of all our tracks, may 
 prove interesting, I shall here insert a description 
 of it. 
 
 As it occurred to me tliat simple linear tracks of 
 ships afforded but a very imperfect idea of tlie 
 spaces actually investigated, and that islands might 
 be passed unseen at night, I desire<l tho officei-s, 
 in addition to the hourly sounding with one hun- 
 dred fathoms, and keeping the look-out men on the 
 alert, to note at clear daylight, noon, and before 
 sunset, the " visual radius," and at night, the dis- 
 tance at which they could perceive an island. On 
 the track line, at the positions, at these instants, 
 the circles of visual radius were struck, and lines 
 or curves connecting daylight, noon, and sunset, cir- 
 cumscribed the actually explored spaces: parallels 
 by night noted the connexion by dark. In this 
 manner we are prepared, on inspection at any 
 future period, without calculation, to meet any as- 
 sertion that islands exist within those spaces. 
 
 It is not perhaps generally known, that surveying- 
 ships or vessels on scientific research are instructed 
 to sound every ten miles, or every hour, two hours, or 
 
[isno. 
 
 I to lio 
 8° W. ; 
 r routes, 
 vill have 
 Siil|>hur, 
 
 nff sueli 
 ;'ks, may 
 i8cri|)tiou 
 
 ;vack8 of 
 I of the 
 ids might 
 3 officei-s, 
 one liuu- 
 n on the 
 [ before 
 the dis- 
 md. On 
 instants, 
 md lines 
 nset, cir- 
 parallels 
 In this 
 at any 
 any as- 
 
 |urveying- 
 
 istructed 
 
 Ihours, or 
 
 IH,*}!).] 
 
 SANUWICII ISLANDS. 
 
 •if)}) 
 
 time tliat her commander may think suitahh', vvlien 
 maklnpf j»assa^»'es. 
 
 J hit to return to our investipition. No si<;ns of 
 land were observed, but birds were lunnerous, and 
 it is stran<jfe that they, as well as moUusca, &c., 
 ceased at the 14()th decree. Reasoning from the in- 
 fereneo I drew at Clipperton's Hock, " that the 
 birds dwell upon he tail course of the current," and 
 fhat being in thi^ region westerly, I presume that 
 within five hundred miles easterly, or about the 1 3()th 
 degree, this examination should commence. 
 
 The strength of the trade admitted of our 
 averaging one hundred and eighty miles per day, 
 and on the 29th May we made the island of Maui. 
 On the day following, we passed along its northern 
 side, and .it four that evening sighted Diamond Hill 
 of the island of Oahu. We ran under its lee, and 
 hove to for the night ; and at daylight stood into 
 the entrance of the harbour of Honolulu, where 
 the pilot meeting us, we crossed the bar, and an- 
 chored until the natives, already prepare<l on the 
 reef, got hold of our hawser. Having furled sails, 
 we trii)ped our anchor, and with a " four hundred 
 man power," were quickly towed to our berth in the 
 harbour. 
 
 We found our old friends heartily glad to see us, 
 as indeed they e^ er must be at any arrival which 
 tends to vary the monotony of their lives. But 
 death had not been idle, and mourning weeds 
 deprived some of the gayest of their cheerful 
 
 s 2 
 
2()(l 
 
 VIHIT THE KIN(J. 
 
 [1830. 
 
 ' I 
 
 il , 
 
 <'(MUitriiunceH. Kiiiiui, tlio chief wonuui of tluN 
 iNluiid, uikI aunt to tlu> kinrr, had also diod rirontly, 
 and Htill lay iu ntate. All tiio chiefs of the nci^li- 
 houriii^ ishindn had been Huiuinoned to attend the 
 funeral. 
 
 The kiii^ was absent, annisiii<^ himself in the 
 valley, and it was suggested that he wouhl not come 
 down during my stay, as ho liad not done so to 
 Captain Elliot, of the Fly. I felt satisfied to the 
 contrary, and on the Monday following called in 
 state. My reception was as warm as I could wish ; 
 no subject was introduced to interfere with the 
 harmony of the meeting, and having promised to 
 attend the funeral, and requested him in return to 
 visit the Sulphur, we parted. 
 
 Why so much weight was attached to my influ- 
 ence over his majesty, I am unable to divine, but 
 most certainly the king's anti-British advisers feared 
 the conjunction; and when I mentioned his acceptance 
 of my invitation, bets were taken that his masters 
 would not permit him to come. I knew him, how- 
 ever, to })e as self-willed as those who pretended to 
 control him, and that unless they overcame him by 
 intoxication, I could depend on his word. 
 
 The funeral of Kinau was appointed for the Wed- 
 nesday following, and, accompanied by the consul 
 and my officers, we proceeded to the house where 
 the remains of the princess (now designated as Ka- 
 hamanu II. by the missionaries) reposed in state 
 The coffin, which was six feet and a half long, by 
 
 n I 
 
 i , > 
 
 ilu 
 
isno.] 
 
 FUNRRAr. OK KINAU. 
 
 •j(?l 
 
 tlin'o wuU\ n\u\ \\\v sanic in «l('|»tli, covitcmI witli 
 crimson cloth and ^ilt ornaments, (similar to that of 
 liihoriho, made in England,) wa.t phu'cd on a hcd- 
 Htcad ; the curtains of whicli were black silk, 
 trimmed with white lace. The body of a carriage 
 having been removed from the wheels, the bedstead 
 was adapted to it, thus forming a very han<lsom(^ 
 car. 
 
 We were received with great attention by the 
 king and chiefs, and his majesty, in further proof 
 of his goodwill, sent the order of the procession the 
 day previous, to ascertain if I wished to make any 
 alteration. The troops and militia, amounting to 
 four hun<lred, nere all well clothed in white uni- 
 forms. Their evolutions were admirable. 
 
 The king's body-guard, amounting to twenty 
 officers in scarlet jackets, some few with epaulettes, 
 tinsel, crape, &c., marched, with their swords re- 
 versed, on each side of the car ; the troops, with 
 arms reversed, preceded. The king as chief mourner, 
 with the deceased's husband, and the other chiefs, 
 followed the car, the residents, consuls, and officers, 
 bringing up the rear. The concourse of well-dressed 
 females (from all the islands, I imagine) in black 
 silk mourning, astonished me. I am quite satisfied 
 they equalled the number of troops. 
 
 The moment the procession advanced, the na- 
 tives not included in the jirocession, but who lined 
 the roads, (which had ,een previously strewed with 
 
 ' 
 
( .SI 
 
 
 202 
 
 TlIK " FKATIlt.RED I'l.UMK. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 rushes, over Avhicii mats were laid,) commenced tl>e 
 wail, — a low noise which can only be compared to 
 the shrill noise of the bull-frogs of America ; and 
 the buz of so many voices in such melancholy notes 
 certainly did not diminish the solenniity of the 
 scene. Many I noticed shed tears, and some I 
 thought really wailed i?i earnest. Kinau, whatever 
 her failings might have been, was much esteemed by 
 her subjects. 
 
 The kahili, or feathered ])lume, and the badge 
 of royalty, was carried on this occasion. It is con- 
 structed of the dark tail-feathers of the cock, very 
 similar to the Chinese fly-dusters, or resembling the 
 feathers worn by our regimental bands. It is, how- 
 ever, of great size, measuring as follows : — length 
 of pole and plume, eighteen feet six inches ; length 
 of plume, four feet and twenty-eight inches in dia- 
 meter. 
 
 On the car reaching the church, a thatched ho"se 
 about two hundred feet in length by sixty wide, the 
 canopy was lowered, the troops marched through, ami 
 the car was placed abreast of the pulpit. The 
 consul and myself were assigned seats with his 
 majesty. 
 
 The faneral service ii the native language, with 
 a two hours' palapala (discourse) was delivered by 
 Mr. Bingham. He condescended to tell us pithily 
 in English what the import was, and the procession 
 then moved on to the royal vault, where the king 
 
1839.] 
 
 MISSIONARY INFLUENCE. 
 
 203 
 
 introduced mc to his oLher relatives tiiere entombed, 
 viz. Rihoriho, and his queen, Kahanianu, and Naha- 
 nina his sister, to whom Kinau was now added. 
 
 Mr. Bingham then retuinod thanks on the part of 
 tlie king, to the foreigne;s Who liad paid him the 
 compliment of attending; the military fired three 
 volleys welly and we then retired. 
 
 On Saturday the king installed the next sister of 
 Kinau, known ay "the big-mouthed (jueen,"into the 
 government of Oaliu, which did not appear to be 
 accjuiesced in by the chiefs, and jnomised to become 
 matter for further discussion. 
 
 The king, accom})anied by the new gouvemante 
 and suite, dined on board, and, tliere being no 
 missionary present, enjoyed themselves very much, 
 and behaved also with very great proj)riety. The 
 king ]>romised to accompany me to Atooi, which I 
 was anxious to effect, as I wished to talk over with 
 him several subjects which were of importance to 
 himself and governn" r-nt, as well as to the foreign 
 residents, and upon which he had asked my advice, 
 which I ultimately sent o i pajjcr. 
 
 The evening before our departure he sent to say 
 " that he felt the disapj»ointment keenly, but ihe 
 chiefs required his presence to settle the affair rela- 
 tive to the late appointment." I am satisfied that 
 the true motive could be traced to the jealousy en- 
 tertained by the missionaries, of the influence I 
 might have over him. 
 
 He had everything packed, and was, \ know, very 
 
2t)4 
 
 MISDIRECTED EXERTIONS. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 .i:i- 
 
 
 much chagrined at his disappointment. I was told 
 he wept, — probably for passion, as he spent his 
 evening at the hotel in rather unkingly style, scuf- 
 fling with his companions, by which his clothes were 
 somewhat damaged, and destroying articles of furni- 
 ture, glass, &c., for which he would have to pay. 
 
 Is it not strange, with all the influence the 
 American missionaries are said to have over the 
 king, that it is not properlt/ exerted to improve his 
 moral character? To compass any object having 
 for its end injury to the interests of their own mer- 
 chants, they are keenly awake, and whilst they at- 
 tempt to pursue a system (the total prohibition of 
 wines or spirits even for table use of the consuls, 
 &c.) which in more civilized countries has not been 
 attempted by a more perfect system and vigour to 
 enforce, they yet permit the pattern, by which all law 
 acquires moral fore* and energy, to commit sins and 
 inconsistencies, not only without control, but without 
 expressing their opinions in that manly form, which 
 they pretend their mission so imperatively demands 
 of I hem. 
 
 Why is this ? They are too fiilly sensible that if 
 once the king and chiefs open their eyes to their 
 true interests, their power, or rather tyranny, would 
 rapidly decline. Since the year 1827, I have felt a 
 great interest about this king and people, and it 
 will probably be remembered by many, that 1 had 
 some little influence at that period. I have watched 
 the changes with interest ; and as far as the king per- 
 
1839.] 
 
 CULTIVATION OPPOSED. 
 
 265 
 
 feonally i8 concerned, I believe his heart to be good, 
 and that the wayward disposition and excesses at- 
 tributed to him, result solely from opposition. That 
 he may be led I am certain, but driven never, if he 
 can see any chance of successful resistance. 
 
 It may naturally be asked, what induces me to 
 take so great an interest in the affairs of these 
 islands? 
 
 My answer cannot embrace any official instruc- 
 tions, but I think that every Englishman must feel 
 an interest in the fate of any flag which bears our 
 national union in the canton. Indeed, it has fre- 
 quently occurred to me, that I should feel very 
 awkwardly situated if I should witness any insult 
 offered to it. 
 
 The changes which have taken place since 1827, 
 have been strongly brought to my recollection by 
 conversations with the residents, during my two last 
 visits. In 1826 — 7, it was considered a paramount 
 duty (by the missionaries) to prevent the culture of 
 the sugar-cane, coffee, cotton, &c. ; and even the 
 cultivation of the ground was deemed almost impious, 
 where the earth spontaneously afforded sufficient to 
 meet their necessities. At that period, however, the 
 chief Boki owned a sugar plantation, and he was 
 not to be trifled with; the sugar-cane flourished, 
 sugar was manufactured, and coffee and cotton were 
 progressing. It will hardly be credited, that one of 
 the chief missionaries took an active part in destroy- 
 ing a considerable cane plantation ; th ' the ground 
 
If 
 
 i 
 
 !i 
 
 
 
 ! ' 
 
 U 
 
 i, 
 
 m 
 
 I; 1 1 
 
 2G0 
 
 COMPULSORY LABOUR. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 was subsequently given for school or religious pur- 
 j)08es ; and that same individual is now cultivating 
 the proscribed cane on the same ground ! I will not 
 venture to affirm that it is for his own profit ; but I 
 was so informed. 
 
 Another, with his own hands, destroyed some 
 thousands of coffee-trees which were flourishing. It 
 would be futile to dwell on the acts of men of this 
 stamp, which, added to the following, can only be 
 attributed to sectarian madness. 
 
 In a discourse at evening lecture, during our visit, 
 the lecturer, in his attempt at illustrating the Divine 
 Power, informed his audience, the white residents, 
 " that God was all-powerful. He could instantly 
 change them into horses, whales, ships, or even 
 steamboats !" 
 
 It is really unfortunate, for the credit of Chris- 
 tianity in these seas, that members of the Church 
 Missionary Society have not been sent to show them 
 the mildness of true christian rule, instead of the 
 tyranny of fanatics, who have already caused a dis- 
 gust for the Protestant creed, and will probably, in 
 the end, be expelled. Their forcible and tyrannous 
 acts against the two French missionaries, as noticed 
 in 1837, have recoiled upon themselves, and the 
 Catholic religion is now, per force, tolerated. 
 
 Already the chiefs begin to see the necessity of 
 change. New laws relative to the employment of 
 the natives, who were groaning under insufferable 
 tyranny, are about to be made. Formerly (or, pos- 
 
183J>.] 
 
 ALTERED I'liOSPKCTS. 
 
 2(>7 
 
 sibly, at this instant) half the month was employed 
 in missionary slavery, church building, &c. ; one 
 fourth, or more, in the service of the king or their 
 chiefs ; and scarcely time left them for respiration or 
 recreation. How are they to subsist ? To labour 
 at their tare j)lantations (and this is severely pro- 
 hibited on tlie Sabbath) would be perpetual slavery. 
 
 It is really matter of wonder, that a previously 
 indolent race, as former navigators found them, even 
 as late as 1822, could be broken in with such an 
 iron hand, without rebellion. Did their brethren of 
 the Society Islands submit to half this ? No slavery 
 under the sun deserves to be questioned so severely 
 as that of the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 What idea can the chiefs have of the amelioration 
 they were to experience from a change of religion ? 
 How can these islands rise in the scale of import- 
 ance, if the climate and amazing fertility of soil 
 which has been bestowed on them, is not to be made 
 available ? What have the missionaries done for 
 them ? This question is beyond my powers of reply. 
 But I can safely assert that, in the years 182G — 7, 
 above eighty sail of whale ships, as well as traders, 
 entered the port of Honululu ; and that number 
 was, I understood, present at one time. At this 
 moment it is almost deserted. And, instead of the 
 thriving plantations, which at that period promised 
 well, we have now a great increase of spirit shops. 
 Formerly the streets were clean and quiet, and it 
 was rare to noti^^e a native intoxicated. They in- 
 
 '> hi 
 
2(18 
 
 Ans('in> KK<iri,ATi(>Ns. 
 
 [iH:m. 
 
 n 
 
 \' , 
 
 '1: 
 
 VI il 
 
 ■ I ' 
 
 <lul^o«l fiHM'ly ill a<|unlic <»xon'is»»H, nhliiti«)iiH, &x\, 
 aiul \v(»ni u|»|)jmMitly free, lm|>|)y, uiul cliccHul ; but 
 a iniHoniblo contruHt rcmaiiiH ; tlicy aro now rliap- 
 falloii aiu) inisorablr. 
 
 I'irNt, tlio absurd "port char^cH" |m»vont<Ml the 
 shippinuf from oiitcriii^ the port for rcfrcHbinciit or 
 r»'lit. SiToiidly, tUv nrccHHary suppli(>s of fruit, 
 v<'/jf(»tablos, &c., conbi not nu»'^t tiu« (l<>inaii<l, by 
 reason of tbo course of labour provtMiting tb(^ nativ<'s 
 from vwu subsistiuff tluMnscIvcs, comfortably or 
 a«kMpiatcly. And, as those su|ipli(>s could be obtained 
 nion> (»asily, at a cheaper rat(», and without extra 
 charges, at the other islands, particularly at Atooi, 
 tiiey generally embarke<l them there, and tluis 
 enriched tlie chiefs instead of the kiu^. 
 
 Tn addition to their port charges, thoy had enacted 
 very absurd laws, amounting to an entire |)rohibition 
 on tlie huxlinpf of s|)irits or wines, even for tlu^ 
 j)rivate consumption of the consuls, nu'rchants, and 
 residents ; and this, too, without due notice afforded 
 to the importers. To the white residents, and par- 
 ticularly to the consuls ami their families, it was 
 almost a denial of the natural wants and luxuries of 
 civilized beings. 
 
 It was chiefly upon these questions that the king 
 wished to obtain my opinion ; tand, from the short 
 couveiTsation which ensued, I tim })erfectly satisfied 
 that he was willing to remove all difficulties. 
 
 It may appear jiresumptuous to assume, that my 
 influence would have ettected the necessary changes. 
 
 1-^ 
 
[is:m. 
 
 iollH, &(*., 
 
 'Hul ; but 
 now rlmp- 
 
 v\\ivi\ t.lu' 
 "iliincnt or 
 
 of fruit, 
 'luaiul, l)y 
 lie natives 
 Di-tably or 
 r obtaiiu'd 
 unit («xtra 
 y at Atooi, 
 
 aiul tluis 
 
 a<l eiiactcMl 
 M'oiiibition 
 11 for tlic! 
 IliantH, ami 
 e atVonlcd 
 and par- 
 ies, it was 
 uxuries of 
 
 the king 
 the short 
 
 ly satisfied 
 
 es. 
 that my 
 changes. 
 
 \H'M).\ 
 
 riiK KINO \vi;i,i, lUsi'osKi), 
 
 •J({j) 
 
 3 
 
 Ihit I wouhl merely refer to a<'ts of lurtt y«'ar, and to 
 documents resulting therefrom, to sliow tlu; weight 
 which they attached to my o|)inion ; and particularly 
 U* that (^\pl•ession of the king, "If we lia<i some 
 pel-son with us occasionally, who wonhl tak(! the 
 trouble to explain what wt; ought to do, as you havt; 
 d<nivs theiHi would be no (piarnds." np(»n this ground, 
 particularly, as well as from his former friendly 
 expr< ;;sions, I felt perfectly convinced that tlu^ king 
 would be anxious to s(h; me, although he might have 
 been persuaded to stay away at the p(!riod of the 
 visit of her Majesty's ship Fly, command(>d by a 
 person unknown to him, and probably taught to 
 believe her visit to be of an unjiUtasant natur(^ 
 
 If 1 had been a fre(; agent, and not compelled to 
 move imine<liately to the northward, I am j)erfectly 
 satisfied that J should have secured houw betntficial 
 changes. JiuUied, they were partly promisc'd; and I 
 was n<>t (piite so much out of favour with the better 
 class (jf missionaries as thiiir enemies susj)ected. 
 
 The king, chiefs, and government are in debt ; 
 and the natives, to accord with their ideas, must 
 work it out. At one time sandal wood, by a tax 
 on the natives, brought in a tf)lera})Ie revenue, })ut 
 this was pushed to the extreme by the creditors, and 
 the islands were nearly stripped. They arc, there- 
 fore, reduced to cut firewood ; but the port charges 
 prevent whalers from taking it off their hands. 
 There is one vessel at present undergoing repair, and 
 she will probably call at some other island, where 
 
270 
 
 THE OUI'HAN SCHOOL, 
 
 [1830. 
 
 » 'h 
 
 
 I'll V' 
 
 ; i' 
 
 she can obtuin even the firewood at a eliea]>er 
 rate. 
 
 The next act of the drama will be the retirement 
 of the merchants in disgust. Left without revenue 
 and without money, the kin^ and chiefs will lose all 
 power and respect ; and at that crisis it is more than 
 })robable that a repetition of the acts of Tahiti will 
 help the authors of their miseries in their removal 
 to the l>arren shores, where they so kindly advised 
 the iTuthorities to transport Messrs. Bachelot and 
 Short. 
 
 This 1 suspect is anticipated; several have already 
 seceded from the mission, arnl are enjoying their rich 
 fanns. Jt h..;, been fully proved that the soil is 
 capable of producing .inything that may l)e required 
 from it ; and, from tho ])rogr('ss within the last year, 
 it is very evident that had those islands been wisely 
 governed, trade would have flourished, the merchants 
 would have increased, and the king and chiefs would 
 have had the command of wealth, instead of filling 
 the humiliating position of debtors. 
 
 Much to the credit of the white residents, an 
 orphan school for the instruction of the children of 
 white residents, as well as those of mixed parentage, 
 has been successfully established, and is supported 
 by voluntary contribution amongst themselves, as 
 well as by foreign vi, ■ toi-s. It is under the direction 
 of a Mr. and Mrs. Johnson, who appear to have 
 devoted themselves very zealously to their charge ; 
 Mr. Johnson saving for this end '\3signed his post in 
 
isay.] 
 
 ITS HENKFICIAL TENDKNCY. 
 
 271 
 
 the mission, the missionary board considoriii^ " tliat 
 it did not como witliin their scheme or mtthm'ihf." 
 Much stress might be laid on this latter word, the 
 keystone of missionary zeal. 
 
 We visited this school, in company with the con- 
 sul's family, and witnessed the practical method of 
 instruction. The ladies take much interest in it; and 
 the proficiency in the English language, needk'- 
 work, and other useful occupations, is highly inter- 
 esting, and reflects great credit on the patronesses 
 and preceptors. 
 
 This promises to be of very great importance to 
 the society, and even to the government, of these 
 islands. Mr. Johnson and his lady may congratulate 
 themselves on being employed in the most perfect 
 course of missionary duty ; and when the morose 
 and austere declamations of their ci-devant brethren 
 shall be heard no more and forgotten, they will be 
 remembered as the original instructors of the aris- 
 tocracy of these islands. 
 
 These children, speaking both languages, and 
 brought up in moral habits and duties, will accom- 
 plish more, by their example and influence, on those 
 about them, than could have been effected by any 
 other course. They amount, at present, to sixty of 
 each sex, not exceeding ten years of age, and are 
 taught separately ; the boys in the morning, the girls 
 in the afternoon. There are some very clever and 
 interesting characters amongst them. 
 
 The population of these islands in Cook's time was 
 
 i 
 
272 
 
 DKCREASINO POPULATION. 
 
 [1H30. 
 
 ■u' l 
 
 1 *■' I 
 
 i' If 
 
 ostimatod at four hundred thousand. In 1832 it liad 
 diminished to one hundred and thirty thousand. In 
 183G to one hundred and ten thousand. Mr. liishop, 
 a missionary, attempts to account for this alarming 
 decrease. But of the fad we ought first to be 
 assured. An enormous decrease, however, since the 
 days of Cook and Vancouver, is admitted by tht^m- 
 selves, leaving numbers out of the question. 
 
 Mr. Bishop observes, '* That the middle-aged 
 women cease to have children, and that many cou- 
 ples have none. That, where they are so blessed, 
 they die before they are two years old. In families 
 of six, eight, or ten,* few survive the first year. It is 
 a pitiable sight to behold their infants. Destitute 
 not only of warm but of cverj/ clothing, the greater 
 part of them are covered by sores and cuticular dis- 
 eases, inherited or contracted from the uncleanliness 
 of their parents or nurses." 
 
 In reply to these remarks, it is necessary to observe, 
 that in savage life it will be found that the women 
 bear but once in three years ; those who number ten 
 children should therefore, at least, be forty-five ; a 
 period when, in civilized countries, women cease to 
 have children, and very rarely have them in savage life. 
 
 How did the race, in Cook's time, exist without 
 warm clothing, &c. ? But I will answer the result, 
 or suj^posed result, to suit Mr. Bishop's purpose. Yes 
 — it is owing to the introduction of foreigners that 
 these cutaneous disorders occur. If the missionaries 
 * Does Mr. Bishop mean, where six, eight, or ten have been born ? 
 
 ' ' ' 
 
[inno. 
 
 .832 it had 
 usand. In 
 ^r. BiHliop, 
 s alarming 
 first to bo 
 p, since tlio 
 i by theni- 
 )n. 
 [liddle-agcd 
 
 many cou- 
 80 blessed, 
 In families 
 
 year. It is 
 Destitute 
 the greater 
 iticular dis- 
 leleanliness 
 
 to observe, 
 he women 
 mmber ten 
 trty-five; a 
 n cease to 
 savage life, 
 t without 
 he result, 
 ose. Yes 
 ^gners that 
 issionaries 
 e been bom ? 
 
 1830.] 
 
 CAUHKH. 
 
 •273 
 
 had not caused the discontinuance of r/eanfinrss, (»f 
 ablution^ constant sen-bathing^ and j)roj)(^r exercise in 
 men and women, as their natural habits pointed 
 out, they would have been free from the evil in 
 <|uestion. 
 
 As to the " want of maternal love and solicitude, 
 the best medical skill, luxuries," &c., when did they 
 possess them ? It has been asserted " that it is an 
 error to suppose that pagan nations can be converted 
 and elevated with comparative ease." This, I sus- 
 pect, would be entirely rebutted in the Southern 
 Pacific. But on two instances, one Protest^mt, the 
 other Roman Catholic, I think I can confidently rely. 
 
 By the testimony of the parties themselves, in 
 the crew of the Bounty, the Tahitans immediately 
 adopted the creed of their husbands. At Gambler's 
 Group, we were informed that they are the purest 
 race existing, and we knew them to be perfectly 
 savage in 1826; probably cannibals. They assign 
 this as their reason for selecting Wainwright and 
 myself. 
 
 My impression, from the beginning, has been, that 
 the natives of the Polynesian Group should have 
 well-educated clergymen sent to them. To people 
 of superior mind, respected and courted by all 
 foreign vessels of war, great importance would 
 attach. But what is the result at present? Vessels 
 of war visit these islands. They do not choose to 
 countenance over-zealous, half-educated sectarians, 
 and refuse to associate with them ; consequently, the 
 
 VOL. I. T 
 
274 
 
 LAST or TIIK m)VAI, FAMILY. 
 
 [}h:vx 
 
 .1 ;.i 
 
 m 
 
 'lir 
 
 M 1. 
 
 
 iiativos, wlio iijiiTowly watch thvao niiimtiiv, sunpoct 
 that thoy are not oiititled to that profound ri'spect 
 which thoy endeavour f(t fonr, and which, moroovor, 
 is not expected fy>' soiajht by their superiors. 
 
 I am satisfied tiiat these peo|)Ie are to be led as 
 easily as any other race ; but, from bein^* hitherto a 
 bold unconstrained people, they are averse to com- 
 pulsion. Perhaps the greatest excesses are committe<l 
 within tiie missionary circle, which includes the kin^ 
 and chiefs. 
 
 In almost every case where a foreigner has mar- 
 ried a native woman, her conduct has, to Judge 
 from the race, been peculiarly correct, and their 
 children promise to be ornaments to the society of 
 Oahu. 
 
 Of the royal blood of Kamehameha, the present 
 king, Kauikeouli, (floating in the dark blue sky,) 
 will terminate the race, as no female of blood royal 
 remains, and it is deemed peculiarly essential that 
 the queen should be even superior to her husband 
 in purity of blood and desciuit. The sister of 
 Nahanaena died in December, 1836. He is mar- 
 ried to Kalama, known as " the king's wife." She 
 was a woman of inferioi* rank, being the daughter 
 of the Admiral Nahikukui, who accompanied 
 Hihoriho to England. The children of Kinau will 
 probably succeed. 
 
 The next chief in consideration is Hoapili, gover- 
 nor of Maui, Molokoi, and Kanai. He is one of the 
 kings friends and warriors, is seventy years of age, 
 
1h:)9.] 
 
 KTAKEM, " JOHN ADAMS. 
 
 27:> 
 
 jind roinomhoi'M Cook. His wifV, ll(»uf>ili W'aliiiio, 
 (witb of Houi»ili,) or Kaiiiii (tin* cocou-iint trto, 
 from lior stiituro,) is sister of tlii' lute Ro«joiit, Kiilui- 
 inanu I., and of ^ovcriKu- AdaiiiM. Slio vva« a wife 
 of Kainoliaini'ha 1., and luul several ehildreii bv 
 him. Kiiiau was her dauohter, as also is tlio now 
 Recent, Ka-ula-olio, (the hi^-mouthed queen.) This 
 Cfiantess was known in the time of Vancouver, as 
 Malaia. He is said to have given her the appelhi- 
 tion of the cocoa-nut tree. 
 
 Kuakini, or John Adams, the governor of Hawaii, 
 is the next in rank. He and Karimoku assumed 
 about the same time the names of Adams and I'itt, 
 the leaders of the two governments. lie is a very 
 intelligent and important personage in these islands, 
 sj)eak8 and reads English, strongly advocates liberal 
 views, and encourages settlers on his territory, 
 provided they are respectable and steady characters. 
 He employs a number of t rades[)eo])le at their 
 callings, and produces leather, sugar, coftee, cotton, 
 cloth, &c. He is a warm supporter of the king, 
 and nothing is transacted of importance without 
 his sanction. He is much esteemed bv natives as 
 Mell as foreigners. His daughter, a very fine young 
 woman, educated in the consul's house at the time 
 of our visit, 1826 — 7, was intended for the King's 
 wife, but she died suddenly. 
 
 The other chiefs are of little importance. The 
 third son of Kinau has been selected as the pet of 
 the king, anrl will probably be named his successor. 
 
 T -J 
 
 .J 
 
27C 
 
 EXPORTS. 
 
 [1839 
 
 His name is Alexander Rihoriho ; he is a very fine 
 l)oy, and very much attached to the English. 
 
 The following exhibits the value of the exports 
 for 1837. 
 
 Value of hides exported, the produce of these 
 Goat skins .... 
 
 Sandal-wood .... 
 Sugar and molasses 
 
 Salt 
 
 Paint oil, (kukui nut) (bancuda) 
 Sea otter skins (from the coast) . 
 Exchange .... 
 
 Specie 
 
 Old copper, shells, &c. 
 
 Hides, (California and re-exported) 
 
 islands 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 20,000 
 
 6,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 4,000 
 
 2.000 
 
 1,900 
 
 29,000 
 
 50,000 
 
 25,000 
 
 20,000 
 
 30,000 
 
 Total 197,900 
 
 f ' ,L'.^ \i 
 
 i U 
 
 In addition, there are light goods, as, tappa, (kapa,) 
 mats, grass-bags, &c., not noticed. 
 
 The market affords every vegetable that can 
 thrive in this temperature. 
 
 The mulberry has been lately introduced, and 
 thrives amazingly ; silk- worms from China as well 
 as America are increjislng rapidly, and have already 
 produced very fine silk. Shortly, this promises to 
 become a valuable export. There are many Chi- 
 nese resident, to attend to all the pursuits common 
 in China. One sugar-mill of rude construction 
 (from X. hina) produces about two hundred and fifty 
 pounds per day. It is worketl by horses. The 
 
1830.] 
 
 PRODUCE. 
 
 277 
 
 concern belongs to Mr. Frencli, an American, to 
 whom the king is indebted. He receives one 
 third, the remaining two thirds go to the king, 
 or are taken into account in liquidation. It is said 
 that two hundred thousand })ounds of sugar were 
 exported from the islands t'lis season: but the 
 trade is yet in its infancy. 
 
 Jlice grows well, but is not yet in the market. 
 
 Sandal wood only produce<l three thousand five 
 hundred peculs this season ; the average of former 
 years was twenty-five thous! nd. 
 
 Sweet and Irish })otatoes, four thousand barrels ; 
 maize, broom-corn, bean , and peas, one thousand 
 lbs. ;— consumed by sheep. 
 
 Cattle abound at Hawaii, running wild. 
 
 Hoi*ses abundant, imj)orted from California. 
 
 Poultry plentiful. 
 
 Turkeys at Atooi very large, and cheap. 
 
 1 1- 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Quit Honolulu — Touch at Atooi — Signs of improvement — Sail 
 for the north — Great numbers of marine animals — ^Touch at 
 Kodiack— Natives — Observations — Visit Sitka — Enter the 
 Columbia River — Present state of Astoria — Ascend the 
 river to Fort Vancouver — Jealousy of the Indians respecting 
 their dead — The establishment at Fort Vancouver — Colonizing 
 ihs Wallamette — lielations with America and Russia — Great 
 size of the forest trees — The Hudson's Bay trading establish- 
 ment — Wreck of a Japanese junk — The crew seized by the 
 natives — Other similar occurrences — Character of the Indians 
 who compress the head — Influence on the mind — Sail for Cali- 
 fornia — Settlement of Ross — Bodega — Unsafe anchorage — 
 San Francisco — Sailino; directions for the port. 
 
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 BOL: "* 1 III III 
 
 270 
 
 QUIT HONULULU. 
 
 [1839 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 On the 10th we quitted the port of Honululu, 
 tiie greater part of our acquaintance accompanying 
 us outside the bar. 
 
 From the great interest I have always felt for these 
 people, it was not without regret that I quitted 
 them at this moment, and not without some mis- 
 givings as to their future welfare. 
 
 The consul and family accompanied us to Hanalae, 
 the port we visited last season in Atooi. Our pas- 
 sage was unusually long and tedious, and we did 
 not drop our anchor until the night of the 13th. 
 The rains, which had not visited them for some 
 weeks, set in suddenly, and continued until the 
 16th, compelling us to work at great disadvantage, 
 and marring our astronomical observations. Any 
 place during such weather would be miserable, but 
 the consul's house being situated on the summit 
 of a ridge, with a clayey road to ascend, which at 
 times might be more fitly classed as a rivule* ma- 
 
1839.] 
 
 SIGNS OF IMPROVEMENT. 
 
 281 
 
 terially diininished the [)leasure of visiting. Yet 
 on its clearing up on the 1 6th, the earth dried ra- 
 pidly, and the freshness of all around repaid us for 
 the delay. 
 
 A very material improvement had taken place since 
 oui" last visit. A new house had been erected, ground 
 fenced in, and an extensive plantation of mulberry 
 trees were in full vigour, preparatory to the intro- 
 duction of the silk-worm. The cattle were in the 
 same fine condition as when we last visited ; large 
 quantities of meat had been salted, and much 
 butter cured. Of the cattle we embarked twelve, 
 having already experienced their superiority over 
 any I have met out of England. 
 
 Many inquiries were made after the king, and 
 why he had not come, as one of his vessels preceded 
 us with notice of his intention. They were much 
 disappointed. 
 
 On the evening of the 16th we took leave of our 
 kind friends at the consul's, and put to sea, experienc- 
 ing outside a heavy swell, with light airs from N. E. 
 As the Starling might part during the passage, 
 and my mind was not entirely made up as to the 
 extent of my northerly trip, I directed her to 
 repair to the river Columbia, and make the neces- 
 sary preparations for its survey, as well as to make 
 themselves acquainted with the entrance, in order to 
 assist us in entering. 
 
 The wind continued to press ns to the eastward 
 
 
\, it. 
 
 |V ■• 
 
 m 
 
 *-> 
 
 ■5 ' 
 
 282 MA.?I\K ANIMALS. [1830. 
 
 until the 24th, when wo ivachi'd HU" of west loii- 
 ^itiido, in hititude 1^7' N. 
 
 Here we observed the custoiiiar) sea-birds, with 
 the addition of the dioniedea. Cook notes a sha^. 
 SeaM'eed was rej)orted, but on exaTnination ii proved 
 to be bundles of nnatifa, n()t attached to anv 
 foreign substances, but radiating from a centre. 
 They were numerous, and disposed in massive 
 streaks, very simihir to the fucus luitans, (or gulf- 
 Aveed of the Atlantic,) and I have little doubt have 
 been fre.juently noted as such. This accounts most 
 satisfactorily for the presence of the birds, who may 
 be said to be "in clover" comparatively; for the 
 sea was studded with them for many miles. Upon 
 close examination of the water, microscoj)ic Crus- 
 tacea were also found to be very abundant. The 
 anatifa were preserved. Temperature, air C5°, sea 
 at surface 05° 
 
 On the 25th, the wind still i)re8sing us to the 
 north, and still in 164° W., with the chronometers 
 performing to admiration, I determined on seeking 
 the nearest landing on Kodiack, if the breeze rlid 
 not favour me as far as the port of St. Paul, in the 
 gulf of Tchiniat, where the Russians have a large 
 settlement. 
 
 As some alarm had been expressed relative to 
 our differences with Vancouver's longitudes, this 
 was too good an opportunity to be overlooked. Tht 
 change of temj)erature was keenly felt by all ; the 
 
ISJ!).] 
 
 I>KKI'-SKA I'KMI'KKATrKKS. 
 
 L'S3 
 
 more so, as tlie tirst to<j: was atti'iKU'd witli drizzliiiu- 
 mill, tlioii^li the temperature had only falUm from 
 05" to 01". 
 
 On the moniin<t of the 127th. we observed [iro- 
 (•(dhiria, diomedeu, &c., as well as masses of velella : 
 the anatifa but scanty. 
 
 On the 28th mc sounded with five hundred 
 fathoms; temperatures as follows: all sueli ex])eri- 
 ments in the Sulj)hur are houa fide vertical depths, 
 being obtained by a light boat ; the line afterwards 
 hauled hi by the ship. Surface 03", 5; air 00"; 
 100 fathoms, 44"; 'JOO, 43°; 300, 3,9"; 400, 41", 5; 
 500, 43,5; dew-point 01", temperature 00'. 
 
 In the evening we passed through a comj>act body 
 of velella, which prodiu^ed a bright ijrveii tint on the 
 mass, although their attached mantle is dark blue. 
 I had an impression that the clear substance like 
 isinglass might be soluble, but after long boiling in 
 water, as well as alcohol and dilute sjjirit, it re- 
 mained unchanged. Numbers of cinereous procel- 
 laria, with whitish breasts, as well as jiarty-coloured 
 })orpoises, were also noticed. 
 
 I was inforir'^d that birds had roosted on our 
 yards during the night, but unfortunately none were 
 taken. I am not aware of the booby venturing 
 into such high latitudes, and do not believe that 
 either the procellaria or dicmiedea would venture to 
 alight. 
 
 On Friday, the 5th July, 1839, we <liscovere(! land 
 (tn the lee-bow, which ( learly showed Vancouver 
 considerably in error. 
 
ir 
 
 284 
 
 KUDIACKS. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 I >'! ! 
 
 i *' 
 
 A press of sail was carrie<l to reach Point Grevilie 
 ill time for observations the following day, and as 
 the breeze seemed disjjosed to fail, I took th> pre 
 caution to keep in soundings, and in a condi. (i to 
 land at the nearest point. About eight I di» pj)ed 
 the stream anchor underfoot, and proceeded to ijid at 
 the mouth of an estuary, from which I had o' 'served 
 a canoe to come off towjids us 
 
 The }»erson a this canoe informed us that there 
 was a Russian company's vessel in St. Paul's ; but 
 '' . a day's delay was important, and the island ott' 
 La|;3 Grevilie, noticed by Vancouver, was within 
 our means of triangulation, a better situation than 
 that I had selected could not be found, as his lon- 
 gitudes had no reference to St. Paul's. Cape 
 Grevilie he relies on. 
 
 The ship being in excellent position, was secured. 
 Hooks and lines were issued to the crew, and they 
 contrived to make the most of our visit, by talcing cod 
 and halibut. 
 
 At the spot where I landed I found a family of 
 Kodiacks in the full enjoyment of the oily luxuries 
 of the Esquimaux. Dogs, in tlie proportion of five 
 to each human being, expressed their disapprobation 
 of our presence, and posting themselves on the ridges 
 of their respective huts, howled most uiunusically. 
 
 The natives were evidently in fear ; they were all 
 females, from the grandmother flownwards; and 
 apparently not much superior to their guardians — 
 certainly not so clean. The huts were situated at 
 
1830.] 
 
 ROMANTIC 8CENKUY. 
 
 285 
 
 the entrance of a large estuary, dry at low water, 
 on the confines of which I could trace many others ; 
 und from the Htrong flow at low water, as well as 
 its meandering for some distance within us, I have 
 little dr ibt that the stream is sup|)lied by melting 
 snows, which at this period clothed the high lands. 
 Indeed, I much doubt tliat they are ever free, as we 
 found snow lying in the latter part of August and 
 September in the same latitude, further east. 
 
 The valley, if one were not occasionally reminded 
 of the cold by the above-ment'-^ned circumstance, 
 possesses a very romantic charsi er, nil was clothed 
 in the customary bright verdu. » oi i,he short north- 
 ern summers. The positi . 1 had selected for 
 my observations was about the centre of a long, 
 sandy, or fine gravelly beat Fuming a bar to the 
 valley, and was elevated about twenty-five feet 
 above low water — evidently produced by the frequent 
 roll of the ocean above its present peaceful limits, 
 and at a recent date, even over our position into 
 the estuary, as drift wood was found on the inner 
 slope, among the long grass. 
 
 On my return I had intended moving on to St. 
 Paul's, but, much to my regret, calms put an end to 
 this entirely ; I tlierefore landed and obtained more 
 complete data, and in the afternoon bore away for 
 Sitka. 
 
 During my delay on shore the dredge was put 
 over, and some interesting specimens, from thirty-five 
 to fifty-five fathoms, obtained ; amongst them were 
 living terebratula. 
 
 ■f 
 
 ji 
 
i 
 
 Ml 
 
 m 
 
 i' I.' 
 I 
 
 h !' 
 
 !! 
 
 
 ill 
 
 ill 
 
 1 iiUl-il ll 
 
 •2fifi 
 
 NI'MKHOrs NVIIALKS. 
 
 [ls:]u. 
 
 Tlio Mack ami wliitc aloa, so oominon to tin* 
 northward, wore too shy to be shot. Several verv 
 handsome dueks Mere fired at, Init were either too 
 strong for our shot, or tlie distance to wliicli they 
 wouhl j)erniit our approach was too great. The 
 fucus giganteus, whiclj is common to these seas as 
 well as about tlie region of Cape Horn, was very 
 abundant, imf)eding our j)rogresH in the boats con- 
 siderably. Albatross were plentiful, and whales 
 swarming. The numbers seen spouting at the same 
 instant were incredible. I can only compare them 
 to the ricochet resulting from a broadside of a 
 frigate. 
 
 On the 12th we fell in with an American whaler, 
 Elbe of Poughkeepsie. She had been very success- 
 ful, having taken sixteen hundred barrels, only two 
 of which were spermaceti, or " right whale," 
 (Physeter Macrocephalus.) 
 
 At dawn on the morning of the 16th we made 
 Mount Edgecumbe, certainly a most splendid leading- 
 mark for this port, — and managed, during the en- 
 suing night, to crawl uj) the sound until Me got 
 sight of the lighthouse. At four Me fired two 
 guns — the customary signal for a pilot — but none 
 appearing, at six m'o repeated the signal, when he 
 came oft', and by eight mo Mere safely at anchor 
 in the outer harbour, having entered by the direct 
 channel before the pilot reached us. 
 
 Our friends Mere diminished by the changes 
 which had taken jilace, but the governor and lieu- 
 
is:)!).] 
 
 UKCKI'TION AT SI'I'KA. 
 
 •jh: 
 
 toimiit-<»;ovornor were tlic same, aii«l rocrivc*! us 
 witli the Hjinie civility, ultlioup^li it was cvidont that 
 there was a roMtraiiit which c(H)si<lcial)ly checkctl 
 the warm feelings with which I had |)ai«l my visit. 
 They were anticipatin<; lujstilities and some of the 
 fairer part of the creation were sheddin*; teal's of 
 anything but congratuhition. This was soon ex- 
 plained, and they observed that they felt much 
 relieved by our signal for a pilot, and observing us 
 stand boldly in for the anchorage, for which we 
 were sufficient pilots. Jkit the pilot secures the 
 assistance of boats, which is particularly ni'cessary 
 in this port, where the winds fail in an instant. 
 
 Nothing worthy of record occurred, our visit 
 merely embracing observations to connect this me- 
 ridian with Kodiack and the Columbia, and the 
 verification of some important magnetic data which 
 varied from those of other observers. These were 
 satisfactorily corroborated. We experienced much 
 kindness and attention during our flying visit, and 
 on the morning of the 19th quitted the har])our. 
 One of the vessels ])elonging to the company, bound 
 to Bodegas and Mexico, was to have sailed with us, 
 but having an indifferent pilot, she fell into shoal 
 water, and remained behind. 
 
 We met a lieavy westerly swell outside the gulf, 
 similar to that of 1837, which made us very uneasy. 
 
 Amongst the changes which I noticed is that of 
 a steamer, which has been added to the establish- 
 ment, and in which the governor intends visiting 
 
 
288 
 
 COLUMBIA UIVKR. 
 
 [1830. 
 
 tlie portH within his juriM(li<'tioii. For tliin plan«, 
 constructed here, (and bcr nmcliinory from America,) 
 HJie will be very UHeful; but compared witii aniflhinff 
 in Europe she is very poor. 
 
 Being (as usual) unfortunate in our breezes, it 
 was not until the 28th that we reached the mouth 
 of the Columbia, when Lieutenant Kellett, having 
 descried us, weighad and stood out with the Starling 
 to conduct us in. 
 
 Fortunately the weather admitte<l of our entering, 
 otherwise the very imperfect sailing directions might 
 have led us into danger. 
 
 The shoals in the entrance of this river have 
 most materially changed their featvies within the 
 last two years. Just at our la^t tack, which would 
 have taken us safely to our anchorage, the ship 
 tailed, and the flood forced her instantly on the 
 bank, where it continued to press her inwards. 
 Before any assistance could be rendered, the tide 
 fell, and our anchors being already down, we had 
 to await the night tide, when less s^a prevails. She 
 floated off on the flood, a breeze off shore having 
 helped her, and anchored in security until the morn- 
 ing, when we weighed and ran up to our berth in 
 Baker's Bay. Not so the Starling; in weighing 
 (in ten fathoms) she tailed, and instantly lost her 
 rudder. 
 
 I had not then decided upon taking her up to 
 Fort Vancouver, but this now became necessary ; 
 an<l having seen the ship securely moored, and con- 
 
- >'- 
 
 [1839. 
 
 r tliiH pIa(M», 
 nn America,) 
 I'itli anythiufi 
 
 p breezes, it 
 (1 the mouth 
 ^ilett, having 
 the Starling 
 
 )iir entering, 
 ctions might 
 
 river have 
 within the 
 ^hich wouhl 
 e, the shij) 
 itly on the 
 )r inwards, 
 d, the tide 
 v^n, we liad 
 vails. She 
 ore having 
 1 the morn- 
 ir berth in 
 1 weighing 
 ly lost her 
 
 her up to 
 necessary ; 
 d, and con- 
 
 Am- '-*, ^..;.L4.^.^ 
 
* . 
 
 w. 
 
 y : . if-: h 
 
 %iC 
 
 1 11 
 
IS.'J.O.] 
 
 ASTOIUA. 
 
 2Hi) 
 
 strncti'd a toinporary niddor for tlic Starlin<jf, wi» 
 .started on tlie morning of tlio 31st for Tort (Joor<»v. 
 
 On tlio Starling's arrival, Lii'ut. KoUctt coni- 
 nnmicatcd with Mr. l)on<»ias, thccliiof of tho Ilndson 
 Bay Company at Tort Vanconvor, who wry |)roini)tly 
 sent ns a ^nide, i»ih)t, and interpreter; and Messrs. 
 M'Leod and Jiirnii^ eanie down to call on iiini. 
 The latter is clerk in ehar^e of Tort George. Oil' 
 this fort, the well-known " Fort Ast<n-ia " of Wash- 
 ington frvinf^, we anchored for the niglit. It has 
 dwindled oonsi<ierably since the llndson's liay Com- 
 pany took charge, who remove<l their chief esta- 
 blishment to Fort Vancouver, and allowed it to run 
 to utter ruin. Not a vestige remains. 
 
 A small house for Mr. JJirnie, tMo or three sheds 
 for the Canadians, about six or eight in number, 
 and a j)ine stick with a red ensign, now represented 
 Fort (Jeorge. Not a gun or warlike apj)earancc of 
 any kind remains. One wouM rather take it for 
 the commencement of a village than any notcnl fort. 
 The scenery is similar to that of all the northern 
 coast — wooded to the water's edge, and differing 
 little excepting in tlie varieties of pine. The out- 
 line is pleasing, but no field for the painter, there 
 being no contrast of tints, and too stiff an outline. 
 
 The navigation is rather cramped, and it is really 
 surprising that with so much capit.al at stake in 
 shipping, &c., the company have not brought up 
 a set of pilots, by which many thousands might 
 
 VOL. I. u 
 
4 I 
 
 M ■' ' : 
 
 290 
 
 ASCEND THE RIVER. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 
 v\i' 
 
 m 
 
 have ))ocn saved, independent of the creation of such 
 an useful body of men. 
 
 After walking the bounds of ci-devant Astoria 
 in company with Mr. Bimie, who explained where 
 its lines formerly occupied, but where wildness and 
 desolation now reigns, as well as examined the 
 great fir mentioned by Douglas, Mr. Birnie ac- 
 companied us on boani io dinner, and afforded us 
 much valuable information respecting the river as 
 well as the natives. 
 
 On the morning following we proceeded on our 
 voyage through the intricacies of Tongue Point 
 Channel, and after grounding occasionally, which T 
 take to be according to practice, managed by sunset 
 to find a soft berth for the night, on " an unknown 
 spot where no bank ought to have been," according 
 to our pilots. 
 
 This delayed us one day, because vessels ground- 
 ing on the to]> of an evening flood do not float oft" 
 with the returning day tide ; consequently we were 
 compelled to await the night tide, which is generally 
 higher in the Columbia, by about Jive feet, and i)ro- 
 bably cjiused by the sea breeze which blows strong 
 near sunset. 
 
 Our detention occurred close to the " Pillar Hock," 
 considered the second stage in the journey uj). 
 There is but little to interest one here — all the 
 river between this and Tongue Point, as well as 
 ten miles above, being an immense archipelago of 
 
 I ! \ 
 
1839. J 
 
 KKiMARKAHLK SNAKKS. 
 
 *2i)\ 
 
 islands and flats. IMllar Rock rises abruptly from 
 the river in five fathoms, and is about thirty feet 
 above the sea level. The summit has an area of 
 ten feet by five, with li<?ht bushes and long grass. 
 
 On the 5th of August we ])assed round the 
 southern side of Puget's Island, and without any- 
 thiug worthy of remark reached Oak Point, wheix* 
 we anchored for the night. At Puget's Island the 
 scenery may be said to change, the foliage being 
 mixed with ash, willow, alder, maple, &c. I noticed 
 the cypress also amongst the i)ine, but its timber 
 here is of no value. Indeed I have not lieard of 
 the cypress of Norfolk Sound below that latitude, 
 although the same tree in leaf, bark, and other cha- 
 racters, occurs here. 
 
 At Oak Point the river becomes narrow, and the 
 navigation, from a general suHiciency of depth for 
 vessels drawing fifteen to eighteen feet, is very 
 simple; the breeze generally blowing uj) the river 
 from ten a. m. until four p. m. At several of my 
 positions I noticed numerous water-snakes, Init they 
 were harmless. They are termed " the fishing 
 snake" by the people at Fort Vancouver, where 1 
 had an o])])ortunity of witnessing their worrying 
 a fish on shore, by seizing it by the pectoral fin, 
 and (luidinff it into shallow water, and eventually 
 on the mud. In one of the largest of these snakes 
 we found several full-formed young, probably within 
 a few days of their birth ; i)roving these reptiles to 
 be viviparous. 
 
 V 2 
 
292 
 
 INDIAN DURIAL8. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 
 l\i 
 
 li;, ;! 
 
 :m' / ^^ 
 
 IV 
 
 
 
 On the 7th we passed Corpse Island and Coffin 
 Mount of Vancouver, positions deriving their names 
 from being the burial pl.ices of the numerous Indians 
 wliich once frequented these banks during the salmon 
 season. 
 
 It is the custom of these tribes to bury each in- 
 dividual in a canoe ; and according to his wealth so 
 are they lad 3n with his worldly goods ; care being 
 taken to render the greater part of the utensils, as 
 copper kettles, &c., useless, by driving an iron bar 
 through the bottom. The bodies are wrapped closely 
 in mats, but I could not ascertain whether they make 
 use of any particular preparation. 
 
 '^}^j^^''^'^iM.i 
 
 
 
 "4 
 
 i ■■-'■"',<: J 
 
 BURIAL CANOK. 
 
 Great secrecy is observed in all their burial cere- 
 monies, partly from fear of Europeans ; and as 
 amongst themselves they will instantly punish by 
 death any violation of the tomb, or wage war if per- 
 
 ^! 
 
1839.] 
 
 RAVAGES OF SMALL-POX. 
 
 2i)3 
 
 j)etrated by another tribe, so are they inveterate, and 
 tenaciously bent on revenge, shouhl they discover 
 that any act of the kind has been perpetrated by a 
 white man. It is on record, that part of the crew of 
 a vessel, oa her return to this port, suffered because 
 a person who belonged to her (but not then in her) 
 was known to have taken a skull ; which, from the 
 process pui*sued in flattening, has become an object 
 of curiosity. 
 
 In the year 183G,the small-pox made great ravages; 
 and it was followed a few years since by the ague. 
 Consequently, Cor[)se Island and Coflin Mount, as 
 well as the adjacent shores, were studded, not only 
 with canoes, but, at the ])erio(l of our visit, the 
 skulls and skeletons were strewed about in all direc- 
 tions ; and as I was on most of these i)osition8 un- 
 noticed by the natives, I suspect the feeling does 
 not extend much beyond the relatives, und tlien 
 only until decay has destroyed body, goods, and 
 chattels. 
 
 The chiefs, no doubt, are watched, as their 
 canoes are repainted, decorated, and greater care 
 taken by placing them in se([ue ered spots; they 
 are propped up about six feet ; )ve ground, and 
 well covered with mat, to defei them from wea- 
 ther. 
 
 On the 9th, after being nearl devoured by mos- 
 quitoes, we reached Fort Van' )uver, where ve were 
 very kindly received by Mr. Douglas, and apartments 
 allotted to us. 
 
^ I 
 
 i ' 
 
 ; ! i 
 
 m 
 
 ')!' 
 
 294 
 
 RUIT VANCOrVER. 
 
 [1830. 
 
 Fort Vancouver is situatod in latitude 45° 135' 53" 
 N., lon^ritude 122^ 20' W W., and, as the crow flics, 
 oiglity-two miles from Cape Disappointment, tlie 
 northern head of entrance into the Cohnnbia. 
 
 It stands about three hundred yards within the 
 northern ed<i^e of the river; is a picketed enclosure 
 three hundred yards square, thepickets hv\i\*i; ei^diteen 
 feet high, composed of roughly-split pine logs. No 
 particular attention to strength has been pai<l in its 
 construction. It is furnished with three gates, two 
 of which are invariably open by diiy. The houses 
 of residence, as well as storelxnises of the com])any, 
 are within this enclosure, forming two scpiares. No 
 guard is observed. The trading store is oj)en during 
 working hours, and any increase of imnil)er amongst 
 the Indians would not excite uneasiness on the 
 part of the ofticers. S:»ch was my im])ression : an<l 
 conversation, short of jtutting the ('irect question, 
 j'onfirmed it. 
 
 In the eastern sipuire the nuiin building is occu- 
 pied by the chietj in which also is the sala or mess- 
 room. In front of the steps of this building are 
 two long twenty-four pounders shij) guns, an<l two 
 short merchant ship carronades twelve or eighteen 
 pounders. On the left, at right angles, are the <|uar- 
 ters of the other clerks, traders, &c. Those who 
 lijive married tlr* Canadian half-castes generally livf 
 in their quarters, or only conu' to the general table 
 when it suits. It is not a little strange in a fom- 
 munitv so long eslal»lislied, that the wonu'ii shoiiM 
 
 tu«U_ 
 
[1830. 
 
 5° 35' 53" 
 crow HicH, 
 incut, tlio 
 ia. 
 
 /itliiti the 
 enclosure 
 jr ciifhteen 
 loufs. No 
 |iai<l in its 
 o-jitcs, two 
 Mil* houses 
 » coni])uny, 
 larcs. No 
 j)en <lurin<»: 
 or anionijst 
 '8H on tlie 
 ssion : •nnil 
 t <iuestion, 
 
 iiff is occu- 
 |la or niess- 
 liMinpf are 
 !, an<l two 
 r ei<>liteen 
 the (juar- 
 Iriiose Avho 
 crally live 
 lucral tal)le 
 1)1 a ''oni- 
 len sliouhl 
 
 1830.] 
 
 CANADIAN VILLAGE. 
 
 *Ji)5 
 
 
 still be almost totally unac(iuainte(l with the lan- 
 guage of their husbands. 
 
 In the rear of the fort is an excellent kitchen- 
 garden and orchard, occupying about the same 
 sj)ace as the fort, (three hun<lred yards on its sides,) 
 and behind this a large tract of cultivated land, 
 with extensive storehouses, barns, &c., and abund- 
 ance of grain in stack. 
 
 To the westward are situated, without the pali- 
 sades, at a distance of a quarter of a mile, the 
 iiospital and houses of the Canadian establishment, 
 forming a complete village. All is apparently de- 
 fenceless ; although when turned out, every man 
 will be found with a well-tried rifle and couteau de 
 chasse, or other etiicient means of defence; and 
 their partners are etiicient helpmates, in the literal 
 sense of the phrase. 
 
 Yet, comparing this -^iwi with Sitka and other 
 placi'S, it npeaks volumes for the discipline to which 
 the Indians have been reduced, as well as for the 
 cnnteMi with which all the tribes are evidently eni- 
 bued. 
 
 As to the appellation of Fort Vancouver, it is 
 clearly a misnomer; no Fort Vancouver exists; it is 
 merely the mercantile post of the Hu«lson's liay 
 Company. 
 
 In the neighbourhocxl, about two miles down the 
 river, they have a very extensive dairy, numerous 
 cattle, sheep, pigs, goats, &c. ; and about tliree or 
 four miles up the stream, water-mills, for grinding. 
 
293 
 
 NATURK or SUl'l'LIKS. 
 
 [18i]U. 
 
 . H, 
 
 ) I ' 
 
 «, ' 
 
 !1 
 
 sawiiitr phmlvH, and an t'Stal>IislinuMit for ourin<j: 
 salmon — tlio two latter })l|ji'<'tH forming tlic ininci- 
 pal export to tlio Sandwich Islands. 
 
 The attention of tlie chief to myself and thos(^ 
 immediately abont mi', particularly in sen»ling down 
 fresh supplieH previous to my arrival, 1 feel fully 
 gniteful for. but I cannot conceal my disappoint- 
 ment at tliO want of acconnno<lation exhibited to- 
 wards the ercwH of the vei^sels under my command, 
 in a liritish possession. 
 
 We certaiidv were not distressed, nor was it im- 
 peratively necessary that fresh beef and vegetables 
 should be supplied, or I should have made a formal 
 ilemand. hut au regarded those who might come 
 after, and not improbably myself amongst the num- 
 ber, I inquire 1 in direct terms wliat facilities her 
 Majesty's ships of war might expect, in the event of 
 touching at tills jjort for bullocks, flour, vegetal)les, 
 &c. I certainly was extremely surprised at the 
 reply, that " they were not in a condition to supj)ly." 
 
 As any ol)servation liert; Avould l)e useless, and 1 
 well knew this j)oint could be readily settled where 
 authority could be referred to, I let the matter 
 rest. But having been invited to inspect the farm 
 and dairy, and been informed of the quantity of 
 grain, and the means of furnishing Hour, — and not- 
 withstanding the profusion of cattle; and potatoes, 
 no offer having been made for our crews, I regretted 
 that I had been led into the acce[)tance of j)rivate 
 supplies; .-tlthough at tiial lime the otiier officers of 
 
 m 
 
[1830. 
 
 I- en I'll I <r 
 lio priiu'i- 
 
 \ntl tlioso 
 
 feel fully 
 JHiippoint- 
 libited to- 
 coniintviKl, 
 
 ras it iiii- 
 vegetiiblcH 
 } a formal 
 i<rht coino 
 the imin- 
 'ilitios her 
 e event of 
 regetubles, 
 mI at the 
 o suiiply." 
 ss, ami 1 
 led where 
 le matter 
 the farm 
 uantity of 
 and not- 
 ])otatoei!i, 
 regretted 
 of j)rivate 
 oHicerf5 of 
 
 1830.] 
 
 I'LAN or COLONIZISCJ. 
 
 207 
 
 tlic estahlishment had told my ofTicei*s that sui)j)lleH 
 would of course he Hent down. 
 
 SturgiMUi, however, were in ahundanee; and though 
 we had lately killed our last hulloek, (end)arked at 
 A tool,) San Franeiseo Moidd soon he reached. 
 
 Some few years since the conipany determined on 
 forming settlements on the rich lan<ls situated on 
 the Wallamette and other rivers, and providing for 
 their retired servants by allotting them farms, and 
 further aiding them hy su|>|>lieH of cattle, &c. That 
 on the Wallamette was a field too invitin«i- for nns- 
 sionary enthusiasm to overlook ; but instead of so 
 lecting a British subject to attbrd them spiritual 
 assistance, recoui*se was had to Americans, — a course 
 pregnant with evil consequences, and particularly in 
 the political squabble jjending, sis will be seen by the 
 result. No sooner had the American and his allies 
 fairly "squatted," (which they deem taking posses- 
 sion ofthe country,) than thev invited their brethren 
 to join them, and called on the American govern- 
 ment for laws and protection ! 
 
 This position has not only become the bone of 
 contention which has again roused the Americans, 
 but, from the fact of containing many of the old 
 servants of the company unaccustomed to restraint, 
 and whose first aj)i)eal is to their trusty riHe, is vev\ 
 likely to cause some trouble. They are now loud In 
 theirclaim of right to the soil,and acolony of American 
 settlers was en roitfa in the plains when we quitted. 
 
 f)n the (►ther river, Catlamet, they have two nii^- 
 
 ] 
 
'2UH 
 
 < LAI MS OPEN TO OUJKCTION. 
 
 [1830. 
 
 i|- 
 
 .' t K 
 
 NJcHmrii's, oii(» IVoti'stuiit, the other Roiiiaii Catholic; 
 but UH this is a coinjMiiiy'H fann, and on the north 
 Hide, r believe tliat tiiere is no present tear of in- 
 trusion. 
 
 Tiie territory has at lenffth, by dint of IJritisli 
 capital and per»everance, attained such importance, 
 that America doubtlesH is juixious to open the fieUl 
 to iier subjects; and iiavintr her eyes oi)en to what 
 has been virtually lost in an over-reaching attempt 
 by the Astor Company, to<»btaina value by ne<(ocia- 
 tion, for that which in a few houi*s would have been 
 IihIiHc Hritish ])roperty In/ coptim\ she attempts to dis- 
 avow the le<!:ality of the transfer. This renders the 
 matter still worse, as, had the capture taken i)lace, 
 they mioht, with some plea of propriety, have looked 
 for its restoration at the j)eace. But if boim fide 
 purchasers are, at this late date, to be marred in 
 their speculation, tiie ultimate consequences of which 
 they doubtless auticijKtted, then nmst wo bid fare- 
 well to jirood faith in mercantile transat tions ; for in 
 no other li«(ht than that of a plain transfer of ]>rivate 
 |»roperty can it honestly be contemplated. 
 
 The possession of the tradin*^ ])ost at Fort Van- 
 couver (not the Fort Astoria, }>urchascd from the 
 Americans by the JJritish Company) cannot in any 
 way be questioned in reference to the Columbia 
 territory. That boundary line must first be defined 
 before America ventures to claim any point «»f the 
 head-quarters of the Hudson's JJay company. 
 
 The Hudson's IJay company at j>resent jmssess Fort 
 
 
 1\ L. 
 
ih;{d.j 
 
 ruKATV vvnii uussia. 
 
 •JUl) 
 
 VaiK'ouvi'i- ; Tort (Jt'or^o, at tlif iiKuith of the 
 ('oluinl>ia; Nas<|iially, in I'up't's SchiikI, 47' N. ; 
 iMMtM* Lau^rhlin, r)(r»N.; (Milbank SoiiiHl)aiul I'oit 
 SiinpHoii, at Duinlas Islaiul in .">4" N. 
 
 In 1834, an cxjicdition \vas litti'«l ont (from Fort 
 N'ancouver) to I'Mtahlisli a trading); post on tlic river 
 Stilvino, Mliicli falls into Clarcnci' Straits, and is 
 sitnated in ;")() N., 131 HK VV.; hnt tlir Knssians» 
 iiaviii*"^ notice of tlieir intention, liad erected a 
 Idocklionse, and placed one of their corvettes at 
 tlie month of the river, to prevent their enectin<>- their 
 «d)Ject. 
 
 13) the treaty (d* lH2o (vi<le Appendix) completed 
 w itli the Russian government. Articles 3, G, 7, and 
 II, it was a<«reed that the Russians were to occupy 
 I'nnn their <mtNv ird boundary, vi/., 04 4o' N., an<l 
 I3r to 133" W., a parallel haiul of thirty nnles, 
 above 54" 40' N., but clearly reservin;>' the rii»ht on 
 the |)art of the Hritish traders to " /ivr/y . iriijatf all 
 f/te rii'er.s whuh cnniticd the line of (Ifmarvation'' And 
 a> it was moreover a prominent feature of that treaty, 
 that neither party under any circumstances siiould 
 have recourse to force, without first transferrin^'- the 
 disi)ute to their governn^'nt; a formal aj>|)eal was 
 made to Haroi. Wran^el, at that i»erio(l Clovernor of 
 Sitka, but without success. 
 
 It is probably fortunate that this article tied the 
 hands of our spirited northwesters, or the (jucstion of 
 blockade wouhl have assumed a very dilVerent 
 feature. lU this occurrence the loss to the c()m|)any 
 
p^ 
 
 e 
 
 ^ 
 
 /2 
 
 7 
 
 ^^: 
 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT 3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 " 12.0 
 
 12.2 
 
 1.8 
 
 Hiotographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 // 
 
 # .^ >% 
 
 ''^'^ '^^^I^- 
 
 fe 
 
 < ^° J% 
 
 
 
 1-25 ||l.4 III 1.6 
 
 nil— 11111= 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 6'- 
 
 ► 
 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 

 r^^ 
 
300 
 
 ENORMOUS TIMBER. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 ■'! 1 '• 
 
 :A. m 
 
 was assumed at £20,000, but as the Russian govern- 
 ment disapproved of the conduct of their governor, 
 I am informed the question was satisfactorily con- 
 cluded, and ex})enses recovered. 
 
 The timber of the Columbia, either for spars or 
 plank, cannot be compared to that of the higher 
 latitudes ; for to])masts and topgallant masts it is 
 probably as tough, but heavier; oak and ash are 
 better. Probably no part of Western America can 
 l)roduce timber of the dimensions grown in the regions 
 of the Columbia and the northern confines of Cali- 
 fornia. Amongst the drij't trees on the banks of the 
 Columbia, we measured one, one hundred and seventy- 
 four feet in length by twenty feet circumference ; 
 many one hundred and fifty by thirteen to eighteen. 
 These of course were washed from its banks, and 
 therefore not the largest, which grow invariably 
 in the thickest parts of the wood. Mr. Douglas, in 
 his narrative, gives the dimensions of one of great 
 size at Astoria. 
 
 Being desirous of witnessing the poM'ers of the 
 hunters in carrying heavy burthens, which they are 
 stated to perform through the fords, several of the 
 strongest were duly laden with the customary tra- 
 velling pack of four pieces, which may vary from 
 one hundred and eighty to three hundred and sixty 
 lbs. But the individual selected for strength 
 carried five pieces of ninety lbs., amounting to four 
 hundred and fifty lbs., a distance of seventy-three 
 jtaces. lie was not a man in full vigour, rather 
 
 m 
 
 f' 
 
1830.] 
 
 TRADING ESTABLISHMENT. 
 
 301 
 
 aged ; he Ijarely jierformed tlie feat, staggerinne. 
 Their hunting and trading parties were absent. 
 
 The company usually keep two migratory tra])ping 
 parties, of fifty men each ; one between the Columbia 
 and the bay of San Francisco, near the coast ; the 
 other in the interior, about the head-cpiarters of the 
 Sacramento. This latter party noticed us in the 
 Sacramento in 1837, but mistaking us for the Cali- 
 fornians, were afraid to make themselves known. 
 
 The vessels employed by the company are as 
 follows; one steamer and four sailing vessels. 
 
 Barque 
 
 Columbia 
 
 310 
 
 tons 
 
 G 
 
 guns 
 
 24 men 
 
 
 Vancouver 
 
 324 
 
 >» 
 
 G 
 
 >> 
 
 24 
 
 Ship 
 
 Neritle 
 
 283 
 
 >> 
 
 10 
 
 >> 
 
 2(i 
 
 Sch. 
 
 Cadboro 
 
 71 
 
 j> 
 
 4 
 
 >i 
 
 12 
 
 Steamer 
 
 Beaver 
 
 109 
 
 )> 
 
 r» 
 
 >) 
 
 2(] 
 
 The population in the employ of the company, 
 including natives, &c., varies from five hundred and 
 fifty to six hundred men and officers ; but not more 
 than ten native Indians are permanently employed. 
 The hunters are equipped with hunting instruments, 
 firearms, traps, &c., each outfit amounting to between 
 £40 and £50 per man. The communication to 
 Hudson's Bay in the March and September journey 
 usually occupies three months and ten days. 
 
 The Wallamette settlement was commenced in 
 1830, by a few of the H. B. C.'s retired servants, 
 which has increased up to the present period to 
 fifty-four souls, or fifty-four farms. It includes 
 
 24 Canadians, II. B.C. 
 
 20 American stragglers from California. 
 
 10 Clergymen, teachers, &e., Anuriran Mclliodist Mission 
 
 ■I 
 
},:J 
 
 U,l 
 
 i'l 
 
 ! 1 
 
 "': 
 
 K} 
 
 1 CTmH' 
 
 ?H' 
 
 If 
 
 p.' 
 
 fit 
 
 ij 
 
 ' .j^Vil 
 
 V 
 
 3^l^mm. 
 
 
 IHh' 
 
 ut 
 
 ^i^m t 
 
 11 
 
 I ; 
 
 ;]02 
 
 VRODUCTIOXS. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 There are also four other missionary stations, (all 
 American.) 
 
 One at Dalles of this river. 
 
 • Walla Wallah, 25 miles S. of Fort Nez Percez. 
 
 Clear Water River. 
 
 Spokane. 
 
 The average produce of tlie soil per acre is as 
 follows ; 
 
 1.5 bushels Pease. 
 20 „ Wheat. 
 30 „ Oats. 
 35 „ Barley. 
 
 VVhicli is said to be consumed in the country. 
 
 Garden produce — peas, apples, plums, peaclies, 
 strawberries, ras^ berries ; and general kitchen stuff 
 and jiotatoes, thrive, and are plentiful. 
 
 The trade of the Columbia consists chiefly in furs. 
 Timber, salmon, butter, and potatoes, are exported to 
 the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 The climate is pleasant, but rather unhealthy. The 
 seasons gradually change, as in Europe ; being tem- 
 perate in summer, ranging as high as 95° to 1 00° in 
 the shade, and in winter as low as 4°. 
 
 The prevalent diseases are fever, ague, and ca- 
 tarrhal affections. Consumption is frequent amongst 
 the natives. 
 
 Having completed the Starling's refit, we com- 
 menced our return, surveying the river downwards. 
 We had reached Puget's Island, when she unfortu- 
 natelv drifted on a snag, (or stump of a tree under 
 
[\8-30. 
 itions, (all 
 
 Nez Percez. 
 
 acre is as 
 
 1830.] 
 
 .IAPANE8K WRECK. 
 
 3(K] 
 
 ntry. 
 
 [IS, pea 
 Litclieii stuff 
 
 liefly in furs, 
 exported to 
 
 [lealtliy. The 
 being tem- 
 b° tolOOMn 
 
 rue, and ca- 
 Lient amongst 
 
 >fit, we com- 
 Ir downwards, 
 she unfortu- 
 a tree under 
 
 water,) and broke her rudder short away, taking with 
 it the lower part, Mith all the metal Mork. On this 
 occasion I merely despatched the requisite officers to 
 Fort Vancouver with fresh demands, and moved 
 downwards with the Starling to Fort George, where 
 I purposed })ringing the ship up to assist in the survey. 
 We met with several grotesque figures resembling 
 our friends at Sitka, and one in the full dress of 
 some volunteer militia band. He was in a very long- 
 canoe, fancifully carved. But the noted characters, 
 as proteges of the company's officers, were the 
 Chinook chief and his lady, well known as Choo- 
 mamis and Sally. Their fishing village is on the 
 north side, near Baker's Bay, at the entrance of the 
 first creek. Blankets, and rum diluted four times, 
 were the principal demands for objects ; l)ut these 
 were very scarce, including skin boots, bows, arrows, 
 salmon, sturgeon, deer, and paddles. 
 
 WRECK OF THE JAPANESE JUNK.* 
 
 We received from the officers of the Hudson's Bay 
 establishment several articles of Japanese china' 
 which had been washed on shore from a Japanese 
 junk, wrecked near Cape Flattery. Mr. Birnie knew 
 little of the details of the event ; but, in the Appen- 
 dix to Washington Irving's Rocky Mountains, vol. ii. 
 p. 240, is the following account of it, in a letter from 
 
 * This as well as following detail relative to the comprossion 
 of the skulls, were kindly presented by Mr. Hinds, assistaiit- 
 siu'gcon. 
 
 ill 
 
304 
 
 THE CREW ENSLAVED. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 >.\J 
 
 \:'U 
 
 It'] 
 
 Hi ^ 
 
 n 
 
 'f'l 
 
 Captain Wycth: — "In the winter of 1833, a Japanese 
 junk was wrecked on the north-west coast, in tlie 
 neighbourhood of Queen Charlotte's Island, and all 
 but two of the crew, then much reduced l)y starva- 
 tion and disease, during a long drift across the Pacific, 
 were killed by the natives. The two fell into the 
 hands of the Hudson's Bay Company, and were sent 
 to England. I saw them on my arrival at Vancouver 
 in 1834." Mr. Birnio states, it was at Cape Flattery, 
 and not as above ; and on this point his local know- 
 ledge makes him the best Judge. " There Avere," he 
 says, " two men and a boy purchased from the na- 
 tives. As soon as it was known that some shipwrecked 
 people were slaved among the natives, the Hudson's 
 Bay Company ^lent their vessel Lama, Captain 
 M'Neai, to obtain them by barter ; and there was 
 some trouble in redeeming the boy. They were 
 subsequently sent to England, and thence home; but 
 their countrymen refused to receive them." Further 
 my informant could not acquaint me. 
 
 By the winter of 1833, Captain Wyeth means, pro- 
 bably, the commencement of that year, as will 
 presently appear more likely. There had been many 
 people on board the junk, but distress had greatly 
 thinned them ; and several dead bodies were headed 
 up in casks. About the same time another Japanese 
 junk was wrecked on the island of Oahu, Sandwich 
 Islands. From the Hawaiian Spectator, vol. i. p. 296, 
 I have the details. " A junk laden with fish, and 
 having nine hands on boaj'd, left one of the southern 
 
 ^ ' 
 
 1 T 
 
1830.] 
 
 IMi'RKSSloN OF rHK HAWAIIAN'S. 
 
 'MK) 
 
 islanrls of the Japanese n^roup for Jt'ddo, but, oii- 
 countoring a typlioou, Mas driven to sea. After 
 wandering about the ocean for ten or eleven months, 
 they anchored on the last Sunday of December, 183*2, 
 near the harl)our of Waialea, Oahu. Their supj)ly 
 of water during the voyage had been obtained from 
 casual showers. On l)eing visited, four j)ersons were 
 found on board; three of these \verc severely afflicted 
 with scurvy, two being unable to walk, and the third 
 nearly so. The fourth was in good health, and had 
 tlie sole management of the vessel. After remaining 
 at Waialea five or six days, an attempt was made to 
 bring the vessel to Honolulu, when she was wrecked 
 ort' Barber's Point, on the evening of January 1st, 
 1833. Everything but the crew was lost, with the 
 exception of a few trifling articles. The men re- 
 mained at Honolulu eighteen months, when they 
 were forwarded to Kamtschatka, from whence they 
 lioped, eventually, to work their way, by stealth, into 
 their own country, approaching by the way of the 
 most northern islands of the group. " When the peo- 
 j)le (Hawaiians) saw the junk, and learned from 
 whence it had come, they said it was plain, now, 
 whence they themselves originated. They had sup- 
 posed before, that they could not have come from 
 either of the continents ; but now they saw a people 
 much resembling themselves in persons, and in many 
 of their habits ; a people, too, who came to those 
 islands without designing to come ; they said, ' It is 
 plain, now, we came from Asia.' " 
 
 VOL. I. X 
 
 if' 
 
3()0 
 
 FLAT-nKADKl) INDIANS. 
 
 fisao. 
 
 V' 
 
 mT 
 
 A wreck likewise occurred in tiiis bay many year 
 ago, before the wliites occui>ied the country ; whi 
 is considered to bo a similar occurrence. But it must 
 be observed, that since the wreck of the junk near 
 Cape Flattery, the current of conjecture on this sub- 
 ject is, probal)ly, highly Japanese. It appears that a 
 vessel with many hands on board, and laden with 
 bees'- wax, entered the bay and was wrecked ; slie 
 went to pieces, and the crew got on shore. Many 
 articles were washed on shore, and particularly the 
 bees'-wax. This latter is even now occasionally thrown 
 upon the beach, but in smaller quantities than for- 
 merly. I have one specimen now in my possession. 
 
 THE CHARACTER OF THE INDIANS ON THE COLUMBIA 
 PRACTISING COMPRESSION OF THE HEAD. 
 
 ! * ' ! ; I 
 
 i't 
 
 l!l: 
 
 Among primitive nations, it is not uncommon to 
 find them attempting to improve nature's handiwork, 
 by some peculiar method of distortion. We will 
 pass over the Chinese and Europeans. They con- 
 descend to control the feet and waist : our friends 
 here have a nobler aim, and set to work on the head. 
 In that part of the coast more particularly known as 
 the north-west, it is universal with the women to 
 incise the lower lip, and, by gradual distention, to 
 insert a piece of wood of no small dimensions, even 
 to upwards of two inches in length. When this is 
 removed, a second mouth is exposed, rivalling in 
 dimensions the first. And even this practice has its 
 
 if! !| 
 
[1S30. 
 
 ism] 
 
 KXTRNT <»r TIIK I'KACTrCK. 
 
 no: 
 
 many yoar 
 it 17 ; wlii 
 
 But it must 
 e junk nosir 
 
 on this sub- 
 ppoars that a 
 I laden with 
 ^rreckcd; she 
 hore. Many 
 i-ticularly tho 
 onally thrown 
 tics than for- 
 y possession. 
 
 HE COLUMBIA 
 E HEAD. 
 
 uncommon to 
 •c's handiwork, 
 on. We will 
 ls. They con- 
 It: our friends 
 •k on the head, 
 iarly known as 
 the women to 
 distention, to 
 Imensions, even 
 When this is 
 id, rivalling in 
 practice has its 
 
 fashion and variety. The custom of coniprossin''' tlic 
 licad in infancv is not practised licrc cxtcnsivelv. 
 On tlie coast it is limited to a spjice of about one 
 hundred and seventy miles, extendin<;' l)etween Capo 
 Flattery and Cape Look-out. Iidaud, it extends u|) 
 tho Columbia to the first rapids, or one hundred and 
 forty miles, and is checked at the falls on the Wal- 
 lamette. In this small compass there are several 
 tribes having this one distinctive badge. Those witii 
 whom travellers are most likely to come in contact 
 are the Chenooks, Chitsaps, Killimooks, Chee-hee- 
 lees, and Shlakatats. We first witnessed the practici- 
 in tho house of Choonamis, a chief of the Chenooks. 
 The infant, very soon after birth, is placed horizon- 
 
 -'":;. 
 
 <::JSm''mm 
 
 
 ::ir,v:A 
 
 tally in a small wooden cradle, wrapped u]) in a fur, 
 and lashings are repeatedly passed across it, so as to 
 
 I 
 
 X 2 
 
H 
 
 \-i' > 
 
 '■H 
 
 I 
 
 lilt 1 1 !' » 
 
 :n)H 
 
 MOST I'HOMINENT (lUALlTIKS. 
 
 [ I Kii). 
 
 rciulor tlio Imdy iicjirly motionless. At the top of 
 tlio cradlo is a well, ratlicr below the level of tlio 
 rest, in wliirli the hea<l is sunk, an<l compresses are 
 fitted in between the head and the extremity of the 
 box, till the re(|uired pressnre is jn-odnced. The 
 compresses were of basket work, and some were 
 ornamented witli bells. I ima<»ine the children <lo 
 not sutt'er much. Wo saw one placed in the ma- 
 chine. It cried at first, as a l)aby in En<yland would 
 when })ut in a cradlo, but a littlo rocking soon 
 (juicted it. 
 
 The practice would not appear to bo prejudicial to 
 the development of tho mind ; and the testimony of 
 those long acquainted with those people su[)i)orts this 
 oi)inion. As a nation, the first thing that struck us 
 was their facility in picking up our words, even to 
 short sentences, and repeating the whole tolerably 
 correctly. Their i)ronunciation is also good, tliough 
 the intonation of our respective languages is widely 
 different. Tho women are always plying their fin- 
 gers over some basket work, or constructing mats. 
 Formerly both sexes spent much of their time in 
 carving rude figures of men or animals; but their 
 communication with Europeans is yearly rubbing off 
 some old custom. Tliey aro fond of colours ; the 
 women construct showy leggings with cloth and 
 beads, and the men often display gaudy shot-belts 
 and other articles of the chase. Like all Indians, 
 they are patient in the pursuit of an object. They 
 will dub away at a tree for months, till it becomes a 
 
t tlic top of 
 level of the 
 in|iivss('s are 
 ivinity of tlic 
 ihicc'd. Tlie 
 1 sonic woro 
 cliildrcn do 
 I in tlio nui- 
 ii<?land would 
 rocking soon 
 
 l'^'5'^l < AUViNOM, |{oy 
 
 M 
 
 u 
 
 prejudicial to 
 
 testimony of 
 
 supports tin's 
 liat struck us 
 )rds, even to 
 
 lole tolerably H /-^^K^illi'/^-viijE^ £S^ "^i SS)' « 1 
 
 good, thou oh 
 
 iges is widely 
 
 ing their fin- 
 
 ructing mats. 
 
 heir time in 
 
 lis; but their 
 
 y rubbing oft* 
 
 colours ; the 
 
 h cloth and 
 
 idy shot-belts 
 
 3 all Indians, ■ VW, 
 
 tbject. They 
 
 it becomes a H ^^vkj^ 
 
f^? 
 
 t I 
 
 . M 
 
 ) 
 
 I I 
 
 i'ii 
 
 ill. 
 
 I 
 
 :Mo 
 
 IM'l.l'KNCK «)!•' A(ii;. 
 
 [\K\{i. 
 
 cjUHK', ami tlic'ii sell it \'*h' three hlniikets. Tliev are 
 exceedingly lax in morals, and attaciied to spirits 5 
 yet, we iiave found tlicm undeviatiii^ly lioiiest. 
 Tlieir forms of reli^don would appear few. In tiieir 
 houses they liavo some few wooden ima^a>s, and to 
 imply their functions juunt t«» heaven. Parental 
 allection would not appear strong. Abortion is 
 much i>ractised. They have usually very few chil- 
 dren. These they display some affection for, which 
 is often indilferently met by the oH'sprin^ Towards 
 their dead they exhibit the greatest respect. After 
 death the body is j)laced in a canoe, wrapt up in 
 mats ; the wlude is then covered over, and the 
 worldly property of the deceased is placed near him. 
 They will not allow stran<jfers to .a})proach the })lace 
 of sepulture. Curiosity must be gratified at a re- 
 spectful distance. The entombed bodies are placed 
 in opeji spaces in the woods, often near a foot-path ; 
 but we were not allowed to overstep the road to- 
 wards them. 
 
 As they advance in age the flattening becomes 
 gradually removed ; thus, few })ersons of forty or 
 fifty have a very compressed head. The children 
 often have heads twice as broad as long, but no- 
 thing like this have I seen in advanced life. The 
 com])ression is carried to a greater excess in per- 
 sons of high rank or caste than in others; thus, the 
 chiefs and their wives usually have the flattest heads. 
 Slaves, and their children, are not permitted the prac- 
 tice. The o[)eration is usually completed under a 
 
 w 
 
: 
 
 ISoD.] 
 
 UlTIT COLUMIMA UlVKIt. 
 
 :3ll 
 
 yoar. Tlic Iiulians ciillcd I'Mutlicads liv(» on the upper 
 lniiiiclic'H of the river, and, Me were int'orineil, have 
 
 not this practice — htcns a non Iitrcndo. It is, liow- 
 ever, not quite confined to tlio Colunihia. 
 
 i 
 
 The Stariino- being ap^ain comj)lete, wo dropped 
 down to liaker's ]iay, talxing leave of our friend, 
 Mr. Biniie, in charge of Fort George, wlio liad 
 been unremitting in liis attentions. On the morn- 
 ing of the t4th September, we (juitted Balvcr's liay, 
 with light breezes, but, owing to the peculiarity 
 of the currents, did not clear the heads until the 
 wind failed, compelling us to anchor. 
 
 Before the tide had done, the sca-l)reeze came on 
 strong; very fortunately, I had taken the precaution 
 to reef and be in a conditicm to beat out, and had 
 Just comi)lcted, when the strength of the breeze 
 
 :'i', 
 
 i 
 ■I 
 
.2 
 
 BODEGA. 
 
 [1830. 
 
 , I 
 
 m m 
 
 M' 
 
 i t 
 
 If:.:: ; 
 
 r t 
 
 Wi 
 
 parted our c'{il)le. Sail was made in time to tack short 
 of the d.iiioers, and nr. the opposite course led to sea, 
 I was heartily glad, after this second escape, to leave 
 the anchor, and get clear of this disastrous port. 
 
 Any attempt to recover the anchor would have 
 j)roved futile, and j)robably resulted in losing- the 
 only one remaining, with imminent risk to the shij). 
 The Starling at the same instant met with a similar 
 accident, leaving also her last anchor but one. 
 
 Heartily sick of this nest of dangers, we took our 
 final look at Cape Disappointment, and shaped our 
 course for Bodega. We arrived on the morning 
 of the 2()th September, in a thick fog, off the set- 
 tlement of Ross, (of which Bodega is the port, dis- 
 tant about thirty miles southerly,) and having stood 
 into fifteen fathoms, we suddenly observed the trees 
 on the heights over the fog, and presently, on its 
 clearing off. found OLirselves within gun-shot of the 
 settlement. The signal being made for a pilot, but 
 not answered, the Starling despatched an ofiUcer to 
 the fort, who brought off two, and we then bore 
 away for Bodega, where, leaving the Starling to 
 commence its survey, we parted for San Francisco 
 to secure the meridian distance. 
 
 Night and fog, however, shut us out, and having 
 twice found ourselves in very awkward positions, we 
 were compelled to anchor until daylight. 
 
 About ten a.m., getting a glimpse of the land, we 
 weighed, and shaped our course for it, the fog clear- 
 ing as we entered the heads. We passefl our Russian 
 
 itii; 
 
 :i ' 
 
 llh : 
 
1839.] 
 
 LITTLE RUSSIA. 
 
 '3l:} 
 
 friend, the corvette, which wc left at Sitka, and ran on 
 to our old anchorage. We foun*! liere the f»ovenn)r 
 of Rosp, Mr. Alexandre, an old actpiaintance at 
 Sitka, who was here for the j)ur|>ose of purchasing' 
 grain, &c. His exjjressions of regret at being ab- 
 sent during our visit at IJodega, were very warm, 
 and I believe sincere ; but the same feeling of dis- 
 trust, arising from the anticipated rupture between 
 Russia and Great Britain, appeared to produce more 
 than ordinary reserve. I am satisfied that some of 
 the residents had bantered him u})on our speedy 
 departure, having for its object the capture of the 
 corvette outside. 
 
 Having succeeded in my observations, I sailed 
 again that evening, and reached liodega after an 
 absence of only forty-eight hours, where we were 
 doubly fortunate, in obtaining the sun, and securing 
 its position, fogs frequently reigning for several days 
 in succession. 
 
 The openness of the bay, and the reported dangers 
 of the anchorage, prevented my absenting myself from 
 the neighbourhood, or I certainly should have paid 
 a visit to the Russian settlement at Ross. I was 
 also very anxious to take advantage of the fine in- 
 terval to secure the survey of the bay. I am, there- 
 fore, indebted to a friend who resided there a few 
 days for part of the following description ; part is 
 from my own observations by telescope. 
 
 The Russian presidio of Ross (little Russia) is 
 situated about thirty miles to the northward of the 
 
IW 
 
 ''■! 
 
 lii 
 
 I 
 i I 
 
 i ; i; 
 
 1 li: 
 
 t { 
 
 i! 1,1 
 
 :'if.».^ 
 
 hi 
 
 'II 
 
 I 
 
 iii' 
 
 I 
 
 i| 
 
 m 
 
 (I i 
 
 'hi 
 
 314 
 
 KODIACS. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 bay, or port, of Bodef^a, on land elevated about one 
 hundred feet above the sea, the outline of which 
 is cliffy, with alternate rocky and gravelly mar- 
 gin, rendering landing, excepting in very fine 
 weather, nearly imj)racticable. The anchorage oft' 
 is bad, by reason of beds of rock above and below 
 water, and the constant liability to fogs, render- 
 ing it unsafe to break ground, unless with a fair 
 wind. 
 
 The hills above it, which command the presidio, 
 are sparingly clothed with fir trees. The main 
 government establishment, or fort, as such enclosures 
 arc termed in these countries, consists of a large 
 square, fenced in with strong planks of fifteen feet 
 in height, and furnished witli block-houses or watch- 
 towers at two angles ; one commanding the sea, 
 and the other the land sides, or covering the east, 
 south, and west faces. 
 
 These towers, armed with three guns each, 
 in a second story, are on a level with the top of the 
 fence. Within the square are contained the com- 
 pany's warehouses, the governor's house, a dwelling 
 for the ofticers, and a chapel. 
 
 The square has but one entrance, which is by large 
 folding gates towards the sea. The governor's house 
 is sicuated at the back of the square, fiicing this 
 gate, the officers' houses and chapel on either side. 
 The gate is guarded by a sentinel with a cutlass, 
 and at night it is closed. This sentinel has no uni- 
 form, but is one of the C(jnipany's establishment, 
 
[1839. 
 
 [1 about one 
 ic of which 
 avelly mar- 
 [ very fine 
 ichorage oft' 
 B and below 
 "ogs, rentler- 
 with a fair 
 
 the presidio, 
 The main 
 ch enclosures 
 s of a large 
 f fifteen feet 
 5es or watch- 
 ling the sea, 
 Iff the east, 
 
 guns each, 
 le top of the 
 lied the com- 
 
 , a dwelling 
 
 ch is by large 
 ernor s house 
 D, facing this 
 n either side, 
 ith a cutlass, 
 1 has no uni- 
 ;tablishment, 
 
 183U.] 
 
 RUSSIAN FARM. 
 
 315 
 
 which, in 1836, amounted to throe hundred, and 
 who live without the inclosure. On the N. W. are 
 situated the stables for the cattle, a large granary, 
 with a threshing machine cai)able of cleaning one 
 hundred bushels of corn per day ; a windmill ; and 
 to the southward, in a deep ravine wiiicli partly 
 forms the bay, are three large tiled buildings, con- 
 taining forges, carpenters' shops, and storehouses for 
 boats and fishing craft. 
 
 Besides these buildings, there are on the slo[)e 
 of the hill, about tw^enty huts for the Kodiack 
 Indians, of whom the establishment generally em- 
 ploy about fifty to sixty, in their skin boats, some of 
 which are capable of containing one hundred men, 
 and carrying about seven tons. They are constructed 
 similarly to the old English coracle, viz., of strong 
 boat-shaped frames, sharp at each end, over which 
 the skins of the sea-lion are tightly stretched. 
 Those to the northward of the Aleutian chain are 
 covered with the skin of the walrus. 
 
 In the centre of the yard or square, in front of 
 the governor's staircase, a brass nine-pounder gun 
 commands the gateway, and within the governor's 
 hall is the armoury for the establishment, which is 
 well stored with cutlasses and fire-arms. 
 
 Between this presidio and Bodega, the Russians 
 have a small ranclio, (farm,) from which they reap 
 in a favourable year as much as three thousand 
 busliels of wheat. This is ])robably the farm in 
 dispute, which rejjort gives out to be the pr<)])erty 
 
4 
 
 f 
 
 '';'M:i 
 
 'K 
 
 !(!' 
 
 31 (; ANCIIOUAOK. [\S',]9. 
 
 of 51 ci-<lev.int liritlsli subject. Tho Caliibrnian 
 ^ovonnuont aro, liowovor, too weak to contend even 
 with any half dozen adventurers, and it is needless 
 to ask for their interference. 
 
 J3odef^a is an extensive bay, almost Joining- (by 
 a creek) the port of Sir Francis Drake at its 
 southern end, which is very shallow. On the 
 northern sid(i of the bay, at a small creek or estuary, 
 (nearly dry at low-water sprin'^s,) stand two Rus- 
 sian buildings; — one a store-house, the floor of 
 which was filled with grain and a few marine stores, 
 and the other the residence of those left in charge, 
 amounting perhaps to three men, their wives, and 
 children. 
 
 The anchorage is within a rocky islet, with a reef 
 and bank extending about three quarters of a mile, 
 which is covered thickly by fucus giganteus. Tlie 
 bottom is coarse sand, with some patches of clay, 
 but bad holding ground. Here, however, it is cus- 
 tomary for the Russians (who have excellent ground 
 tackle) to ride out the south-west gales, inasmuch 
 as the heavy swell which immediately tumbles in, 
 or generally precedes, prevents any moderate sailing 
 vessel from making any head, and the sea-room is 
 but scant. I am informed that the Russians have 
 experienced several losses here, but no lives. 
 
 At the houses, excellent water, carefully conducted 
 by si)0uts, for the convenience of hose, which allow of 
 fillino- without removing the casks ; and although we 
 found the runs small, yet bcung steady and continuous, 
 
 i!.r. ': 
 
[i8:u). 
 
 t'nlil'oruijm 
 iitcml even 
 is needless 
 
 joinino- (by 
 
 ike at its 
 
 On the 
 
 or estuary, 
 , two Rus- 
 e floor of 
 irine stores, 
 t in charge, 
 
 wives, and 
 
 with a reef 
 •s of a mile, 
 nteus. The 
 hes of chiy, 
 ;r, it is ciis- 
 lent ground 
 s, inasmuch 
 tumbles in, 
 rate sailing 
 sea-room is 
 ssians have 
 ves. 
 
 y conducted 
 lich allow of 
 although we 
 continuous, 
 
 183J).] 
 
 IIARIIOIIR OF SAN I'UANCISCO. 
 
 31 
 
 they afforded emjdoynuMit for two l)oats. 1 am 
 satisfied, silso, that it is as good, and more expedi- 
 tiously obtained than at Sausolito, San Francisco, 
 where it is necessary to fill fnnn wells, and injure 
 the boats embarking it. 
 
 Having made a survey of the anchorage as far as 
 the fog ])ermitted, and being anxious to save better 
 weather on the southern coasts of California, we 
 (|uitted Bodega in a thick fog, and pursued our 
 course to San Francisco. Fortunately it cleared suffi- 
 ciently to round Punta de los Reyes the same after- 
 noon, and to enable us to get well towards the mouth 
 of San Francisco. One hour longer daylight would 
 have ensured our entry, but being on the bar in 
 four fathoms, with a heavy swell, and unable t(» 
 make out the coast line, I Avas reluctantly com- 
 pelled to haul to the southward in fifteen fathoms, 
 and anchor until daylight. 
 
 Dawn found us still envelo])ed in fog; not even 
 the Starling in view. Our delay enal)led us to de- 
 termine, that southerly of the fairway line, (Alca- 
 traz and the fort in line,) the ebb tides set N.N.E., 
 flood, S.S.W. 
 
 About ten we got sight of the land, and ran in, 
 the breeze freshening, as it generally does on entering 
 the heads. This is a very common occurrence at 
 this port, requiring small sail to beat out, and sud- 
 denly losing the tide and breeze together. It is, 
 therefore, advisable to keep the fairway marks open 
 until reaching the bar, before hauling to the south- 
 
 I I 
 
318 
 
 SAILING DIURCTIONS. 
 
 [isno. 
 
 ; iii 
 
 i!ii! 
 
 
 m 
 
 ward, l)y which more wind will bo procured and 
 iin|)leasaiit swells escaped. 
 
 We found our Russian friend, the corvette, at the 
 outer anchorage, still waiting to get out. We grazed 
 her pretty close, but her officers were either absent or 
 did not make their appearance, and we passed on to 
 our anchorage at Yerba Buena. 
 
 Our stay here merely enabled us to take in a 
 supply of bullocks and vegetables, and complete ob- 
 servations confirming those of former visits, when 
 we moved on to Monterey. 
 
 Before taking leave of this port, I would remark 
 that, although my readers may fancy I have kept 
 them too long in fog, to nautical men these very 
 dates and observations may be important. Con- 
 sidering myself a lair pilot for this port, I would 
 say to those approaching it ; after decreasing the 
 depth from thirty to fifteen fathoms mud, if the 
 wind is light, it is advisable, or preferable, to anchor 
 and wait for daylight, or fog clearing off; but be 
 prepared to weigh and stand off should the wind 
 freshen. But do not go beyond thirty fathoms. 
 The breeze always dispels the fog. And do not 
 desert a safe harbour, when an hour or two will 
 show the road in. 
 
 .1 i' 
 
 iri 
 
 \U 
 
 :\)l. 
 
 > 11! ■* 
 
 Mi 
 
[isno. 
 
 ocuvcd and 
 
 retto, at the 
 
 We grazed 
 
 cr absent or 
 
 lassed on to 
 
 ) take in a 
 •omplete ob- 
 visits, when 
 
 ^oukl remark 
 I have kept 
 a. these very 
 )rtant. Con- 
 sort, I wouhl 
 ^creasing the 
 mud, if the 
 ble, to anchor 
 ofF; but be 
 ukl the wind 
 tirty fathoms. 
 And do not 
 or two will 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Arrive at Monterey — Move on to St. Barbara — Kelp line — 
 St. Barbara — Move on to San Pedro — Starling (lesj)atclieil to 
 San Buenaventura — San Pedro — Touch at San Juan — Starlins; 
 despatched to examine St. Catalina — Anchor at San Diego — 
 Description of the port — Alarm from Indians — Defenceless 
 state — Country wines made at San Luis Rey — Quit San Diego 
 — Pass Cape Colnett and enter San Quentin, or Puerto de las 
 Virgines — Touch at San Bartholomew — Enter and anchor in 
 Gulf of Magdalena — Fossils — Esteros — Extent of Estcros — 
 Probable connexion with La Paz — Adapted for naval rendez- 
 vous — Cape San Lucas Productions — Reach San Bias — Quit 
 and anchor at Mazatlan — Return to San Bias. 
 
 in 
 
 il 
 
 ',^. 
 
 I 
 
320 
 
 MONTEREY. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 .; r 
 
 '■kV 
 
 m '''ft 
 
 ; f 
 
 ' li 
 
 .1 w'' 
 
 If 'i 
 
 On the 5tli of October we reached Monterey, 
 having parted from the Starling-, and experienced 
 fresh breezes. However, knowing my ground well, 
 I had no hesitation in anchoring. We succeeded 
 in completing our observations, and beat out the 
 following morning. 
 
 As my first rendezvous was Santa Barbara, I 
 sought the Starling in that direction, where I found 
 her cruising to intercept me. Oft' this part of the 
 coast we experienced a very extraordinary sensation, 
 as if the ship was on fire, and after very close in- 
 vestigation, attributed it to a scent from the shore, 
 it being much more sensible on deck than below ; 
 and the land breeze confirming this, it occurred to 
 me that it might arise from nai)htha on the surface. 
 Vancouver notices the same smell. 
 
 We reached our anchorage in the bay of Santa 
 Barbara about nine on the night of the 9th, having 
 been assisted by lights displayed on board one of 
 
 iil 
 
[1839. 
 
 1830.] 
 
 MISSION OF SANTA RAKHARA. 
 
 321 
 
 iclicd Monterey, 
 ,n(\ experienced 
 ^^y ground well, 
 We succeeded 
 nd beat out tlic 
 
 ^auta Barbara, I 
 
 m, where I found 
 this part of the 
 
 ordinary sensation, 
 cr very close in- 
 t from tlic sborc, 
 deck than below; 
 
 lis, it occurred to 
 ha on tbe surface. 
 
 the bay of Santa 
 of tbe 9tb, having 
 d on board one of 
 
 the vessels, to which I had dcspatelied a boat before 
 dark. At sunset we were unable to discover the 
 bay, and could barely distinguisli a lon«^, low, yello'v 
 line spitting to the southward iiiid terminating 
 abruptly. This eventually proved to l)(> th(> high 
 yellow cliffs of the western head, at least fifty feet 
 above the sea. 
 
 The customary guide in approaching the coast is 
 the " kelp line," which generally floats over five 
 to seven fathoms. So long as n vessel can keep on 
 its verge there is no danger; this is tlu; general 
 opinion of tiiose who have navigated this coast 
 during their lives, and our observation has tended to 
 confirm it. I know, however, that less than fivn 
 fathoms have been found within it, barely at its edge. 
 It is the fucus giganteus, and sufliciently strong to 
 impede steerage, if it takes the rudder. 
 
 The mission at Santa Barbara is situated on an 
 elevation of about two Imndred feet, gradually 
 ascending in about three miles from the sea. The 
 town is within a few hundred yards of the beach, 
 on which the landing is at all times doubtful. 
 The bay is protected from northerly and westerly 
 winds, which prevail from November until March, 
 and the swell is in some measure broken by the 
 jslands of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel, 
 to the westward. In March the southwesters blow 
 with fury, which is contrary to the seasons south- 
 ward of Cape San Lucas. Even during the fine 
 weather months, vessels are always prepared to slip 
 
 VOL. I y 
 
 \\ 
 
'.y2'2 
 
 CffARACTKIt OF IHK COAST. 
 
 [1830. 
 
 t i: 
 
 i ' t 
 
 111 
 
 m 
 
 ^ '1 
 
 •). ■ 
 
 wlioii the vviiKl veers to S.I']., from vvliich point it 
 blows with prcat violence, hut soon ex|)en(ls itself. 
 
 We were fortunate in landing comfortably, and 
 by four o'clock, nothing of interest detaining us, wv 
 moved on towards San Pedro. 
 
 Vessels occasionally anchor here within the fiv<? 
 fathoms or kelp line, Imt are always prepared to 
 warp out. This is a kind of inner bar. The kelp 
 <loubtloss prevents much surf, and renders it more 
 convenient to vessels discharging ; but the kelp during 
 heavy gales is generally washed up. 
 
 Having been requested to afford surgical assistance 
 to a young man of one of the first families, who had 
 fractured a limb, and was unal)le to be moved from 
 Huenaventura, the Starling was despatched for that 
 purpose, as well as to obtain its position, the shij) 
 standing close along the coast towards the bay of 
 San Pedro. A short distance to the southward of 
 Buenaventura the coast spits out in a low sandy 
 point, off which the water shoals suddenly to seven 
 fathoms. There is no danger if the lead be kept 
 going. We noticed a lagoon over the sands. 
 
 On the evening of the 11th of October, on open- 
 ing the bay of San Pedro, we noticed several lights, 
 Miich, by the aid of the night glasses, were dis- 
 covered to belong to vessels at anchor. This re- 
 lieved us much ; for having suddenly shoaled from 
 fifteen to five fathoms rocky, we had tacked offshore. 
 In a short time, we anchored amongst the vessels in 
 seven fathoms, when the masters of two American 
 
 ■1 . ! 
 
[1839. 
 
 ch ]H)int it 
 lids itself. 
 i)rtiii)ly, an<l 
 iuin^ us Nvr 
 
 liin till- five 
 prepanMl to 
 . Tlic kelp 
 lers it more 
 L'kelpilurinj? 
 
 cal assistance 
 ilies, who luul 
 moved from 
 died for that 
 ^ion, the sliip 
 [Is the bay of 
 southward of 
 a h)W sandy 
 lenly to seven 
 lead be kei)t 
 sands. 
 
 [)ber, on open- 
 several lights, 
 ses, were dis- 
 lor. This re- 
 shoaled from 
 eked offshore, 
 the vessels in 
 wo American 
 
 183J).] 
 
 SAN I'blDUO. 
 
 n-23 
 
 ships immediately came on board to oiler tiieir 
 services, and the follovvin<f nioniiii<r those ulso of 
 two bri^s. 
 
 The bay of San Pedro, wliich is situated in lati- 
 tude 33' 43' N., lonn^itiide 118 14' W., is open t«. 
 the south-west, but tolerably sheltered from tlie 
 north-west. Inside of the small Island in the bay is 
 a very snug creek, but only accessible to small craft, 
 by reason of a rocky bar, having only at low-water 
 springs five feet. 
 
 The only house near the bay is suj)plied with 
 water from some miles inland ; and I am informed 
 that at times the inhabitants are in great distress. 
 It is only maintained for the convenience of trading 
 with the vessels which touch here for the jmrchase 
 of hides and tallow. Two of these vessels, under 
 American colours, we visited, and found them fitted 
 up transversely abaft the mainmast as shops, contain- 
 ing mostly hardware and linen draj)ery, which are 
 much sought after by the farmers, who take them in 
 part payment of their hides and tallow. We found 
 some of their goods very useful to ns, after so long 
 an .absence from cutlery shops. 
 
 The cliffs of the western sides of the bay, which 
 form the beach line, are very steep, about fifty feet 
 perpendicular, descending from an elevated range, 
 about five hundred feet above the sea. They are 
 composed of a loose mud, mixed with lumps of a 
 chalky substance, enclosing organic remains, some- 
 times running into chert or chalcedony. 
 
 y 2 
 
 ill 
 
 (f I 
 
 i 
 
m 
 
 V ' 
 
 I a 
 
 i,\\ 
 
 
 I 
 
 (i ■ t 
 
 i'i 
 
 
 ;/'■ ' 
 
 iiiiji 
 
 «p 
 
 1^ 
 
 
 'I!' ^ ' 
 
 ^n'' 
 
 :J24 
 
 HAY AND MISSION OK SAN .MAN. 
 
 [I83D. 
 
 It apparently rcHults from volcanic action, un«l tlic 
 frequent hIiocIch of cartli(Hiak(«s liavo left tlie ground 
 traversed by deep Hssures. This chalky or pipeclay 
 substance also occurs at Santa 13a»'bara. 
 
 Having coniplete<l this bay, we moved to the bay 
 cf San Juan, despatching the Starling, assisted by 
 a cutter and mate, to examines the island an<l an- 
 chorage of Santa Catalina; rejoining us at San Diego. 
 
 On the evening of the 13th October, we dropped 
 anchor in the bay of San Juan. Owing to the surf 
 running at the time, and my objects rendering me, 
 without any assistant, a perfect slave to duty, I was 
 compelled to stick to a half tide rock, to effect the se- 
 curity of this position. The bay, or rather the outi'r 
 rock, on which J observed, is situated in latitude 33' 
 27' N., longitude 117° 41' VV. It has a high cliffy 
 head to the north-west, but terminates in low sandy 
 beaches to the southward. This bay was examined 
 and surveyed. The anchorage is foul under five 
 fathoms, is unprotected, and the landing bad. 
 
 The mission is situated in a fruitful-looking shel- 
 tered valley, said to abound in garden luxuries, 
 country wines, and very pretty damsels, whence the 
 favourite appellation Juanitas. I suppose, therefore, 
 that they all assume this name. As many call here 
 apparently, to my view, at risk of anchor and cable^ 
 I was induced to ask the master of a vessel, who 
 called upon me, what brouglit him here. " It is 
 only visited for stock, fruit, or vegetables," was his 
 dry reply. 
 
 ^iH 
 
:. [lH3y. 
 
 i»)n, u!ul the 
 the ground 
 or pipoclay 
 
 [I to tl)o bay 
 , assisted by 
 uul and an- 
 Lt San Dio}?o. 
 we dropiK'd 
 ; to the surf 
 ondorino^ mo, 
 duty, I was 
 effect the se- 
 ller the outer 
 II latitude tJ3' 
 a higli clilVy 
 in low sandy 
 kvas examined 
 lul under five 
 jT bad. 
 
 .lo>)king shel- 
 Iden luxuries, 
 whence the 
 »ose, therefore, 
 lany call here^ 
 Ihor and cable, 
 la vessel, who 
 here. "It is 
 ibles," was his 
 
 1839.] 
 
 ANCHOR AT SAN l)IK({0. 
 
 niif) 
 
 At four we quitted San Juan, but (»wing t«» light 
 win<ls, <li(l not reach San Diego until the 17th of 
 Oct<d)er, having anchored within the kelp tiie night 
 |>r(?viou8. The kel|) at this port is rather a miisancif 
 to vessels drawing less than twenty to twenty-four 
 feot, as it leads y<m at least two miles out of your 
 way, to clear its tongue, having nothing un<ler three 
 fathoms over its whole bank. To tlusse accustomed 
 to the ground it is well, but to us lead-going gentry, 
 who are compelled to stick rigidly to the laws we 
 lay down, it would have been (|uite en rerjlfi to round 
 this kelp, even by going ten miles further out of our 
 line. It is vcrif doubtful if the Sulpluu* would have 
 done HO if any breeze had helped her. 
 
 The position on which our observntions were 
 made is the eastern spit of entrance, whicli was 
 fomid to bo in latitude 32° 41' N., longitude 117° 
 
 ir w. 
 
 The port of San Diego, /b>' shelter, deserves all the 
 commendation that j)revious navigators have be- 
 stowed on it ; and with good ground-tackle a vessel 
 may be perfectly land-locked. The holding ground 
 is stubborn, but in heavy southerly gales I am in- 
 formed that .anchors " come home," owing to the 
 immense volume of kelp driven into the harbour. 
 It has been stated to me by an old sailor in this 
 region, that he has seen the whole bank of fucus 
 giganteus (which comprises a tongue of three miles 
 in length by a quarter broad) forced by a southerly 
 gale into this port. This, coming across the bowK, 
 
I . 
 
 m 
 
 I'i". 
 
 ! , 
 
 •■ifl 
 
 111 : 
 
 !l ^iJ, 
 
 m\ \ 
 
 .1 ■' 
 
 32G 
 
 I'ORT OF SAN DIEGO. 
 
 [1830. 
 
 either causes the cible to part, or brings the anchor 
 liome. No vessel, however, has suifered from this 
 cause. The chief drawback is the want of fresli 
 water, wliich even at the presidio, three miles from 
 the i)ort, is very indifferent. This is strange, for I 
 am perfectly satisfied that if proper precautions were 
 (jl)served in digging wells, the height of the penin- 
 sula must furnish water. This, however, to be 
 maintained sweet must do constantly worked, and 
 occasionally as dry as it can be reduced. 
 
 The mission is situated up a valley, about seven 
 miles from the presidio. There they have, not only 
 the finest water, but a river or torrent flows from 
 thence to the presidio during the rains, but in the 
 dry season loses Hself in the sand about half way. 
 The soil is very loose, chiefly of volcanic sand and 
 mud, mixed with fine pumice and scoria}, which on 
 the flats between the elevated ridges, where the rain 
 has carried off the lighter particles, presents the ap- 
 pearance of finely-gravelled terraces. Several va- 
 rieties of cacti, particularly of the Turk's head va- 
 riety, were abominably abundant, very much to 
 the discomfiture of our ascending parties in the pro- 
 secution of the survey. 
 
 Since the missions have been taken from the 
 padres, and placed under the administradores, they 
 have fallen entirely into decay and ruin ; and it is not 
 improbable that the whole country will ere long 
 either fall back into the hands of the Indians, or find 
 other rulers. During our visit they were very 
 
 ■^ // 
 
[1839. 
 
 i the anchor 
 d from this 
 ant of fresh 
 } miles from 
 iiange, for 1 
 ■autions were 
 of the penin- 
 vever, to be 
 worked, and 
 
 1. 
 about seven 
 
 lave, not only 
 
 lit flows from 
 
 ns, but in the 
 
 lOut half way. 
 
 anic sand and 
 
 iria?, which on 
 
 where the rain 
 
 ■esents the ap- 
 
 Several va- 
 
 Turk's head va- 
 
 very much to 
 
 ties in the pro- 
 
 aken from the 
 istradores, they 
 u ; and it is not 
 will ere long- 
 Indians, or find 
 ley were very 
 
 183a] 
 
 ALARM FROM INDIANS. 
 
 3-27 
 
 apprehensive of an attack, and had been one ni^ht 
 at quarters, their arms (in the nineteenth century !) 
 consisting of bows and arrows, inasmuch as they 
 had no powder for any firearms they might have 
 possessed. The garden, also famed in former days 
 for its excellence, has now fallen entirely into decay, 
 and instead of thousands of cattle, and horses to take 
 care of them, not twenty four-footed animals re- 
 
 mam 
 
 The trade of the port consists entirely of hides 
 and tallow ; but not, as formerly, from the missions ; 
 for they have long been fleeced. It has now be- 
 come a complete speculation. It is necessary that 
 one of the parties should reside on the spot, proba- 
 bly marrying into some influential family, (i. e. in 
 hides and tallow,) to insure a constant supj)ly for 
 the vessels when they arrive. It is dangerous for 
 them to quit their post, as some more enterprising 
 character might offer higher j)rices and carry off 
 their cargo. 
 
 But little wine is made since the virtual death of 
 this mission, and that little of very inferior quality. 
 I believe that at the neighbouring mission of San 
 Luis Key the principal wines are made, as well as a 
 very pure spirit reseml)ling Italia, whisky, or the pisco 
 of Peru. 
 
 We found tolerable sport between daylight and 
 the breakfast hour, in killing rabbits, hares, ducks, 
 and cordoneces, (quail of California). The seine 
 aftbrded also a plentiful sup})ly of excellent fish. 
 
Hi 
 
 ^^^H BBI ] 
 
 ^^^^^HB ^^B 
 
 laUfn' 1 ||l 
 
 HIIH ^ ^' '' 
 
 iMMni ^ ^ ^ 
 
 HI E ^ 
 
 ^BiH} in wW i 
 
 H«H li' '•' 'It ' 
 
 ^BkRm '■ i''''^' ' 
 
 j^RiUiB' |iL' i 
 
 Hui ^ i r 
 
 III' |!h 
 
 ^B a ^' ' T''^ '' 
 
 RH W ' 'k ' t ' ' ' 
 
 ■ill' n^':9 
 
 B^Q- ^ 4| hR' 
 
 IWb: M; I'i [M 
 
 Hf 1 fi 'h'^ ' 
 
 NhVh '^ ' ' 
 
 »IUi9 f ^ 
 
 hIH Tfl 
 
 l^^y rl 
 
 ^^■j ' |«: y ' 
 
 Bli' -1' 
 
 pl^H lifi''' ^' -1 " 
 
 lili "1' 
 
 l^^n's r*'' a '' 
 
 viVf ' ^-^^ > 1 
 
 ^Bw^ :i 'j'. {t[,i ' I S 
 
 ami iiPi ' 
 
 B^^Pt ^ M^tV'-^ ' 
 
 Wa' iti|n(|f! '' ' 
 
 fMt plW J ' ;{ 
 
 Bmk i a'^ L ' ' M 
 
 B|!| i 
 
 P"!!| ' Hf- 
 
 HI'i '' ■■ ^ ' ''p-"^' ' 
 
 IHH'S y ' * fj - ' ' 1 ^ ' 
 
 
 iBlfB' 
 
 |BP.My 1 .-( ' li '1 ' 1 ' 
 
 R 1 f f'\ 
 
 11 1 
 
 IM ''^' V ! ' 
 
 liii f lii'' 
 
 HH r '' fi 1 ''i ■' 
 
 w J ';' Dp '. 'i ^ 
 
 Hi M' flit ' 
 
 ^^H '^j BtkB^ i> ' 
 
 BK' '' SbB 
 
 I iiif 1 ' 
 
 BBh.^^w '' < '1 
 
 HBHl^^^^i ^ Li h 
 
 328 
 
 GAME. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 Having remained liere live days, in order to rate the 
 chronometers, a tolerable survey was made of the 
 port. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 22nd, we quitted San 
 Diego, intending to land and fix the position of 
 Cape Colnett ; but about eight in the evening of the 
 23rd, having rounded the Cape, we found sucli a 
 heavy swell rolling in, that landing was imprac- 
 ticable. Cape Colnett was however fixed by the 
 Starling on the day following, by the sea horizon, 
 when she also found the rollers too heavy. 
 
 Our course was now directed for Port San 
 Quentin, off which we anchored on the morning 
 of the 24tli, in four fathoms. I landed immediately 
 to secure the position, and the boats were despatched 
 to discover the channel. About three p. m., how- 
 ever, the water at the ship had fallen so much as to 
 render her immediate removal necessary. We ac- 
 cordingly weighed, and having made a tack to the 
 westward, found the water decrease ; tacked, ground- 
 ing in stays, and after a series of gambols of this 
 nature, which did not prevent her staying, succeeded 
 in entering the port, where we finally anchored in 
 a snug berth, in seven fathoms. No damage beyond 
 a slight shock to the chronometers. 
 
 As this port is but little known, it became of 
 still more importance that it should be strictly exa- 
 mined. Not that it affords anything equal to San 
 Diego ; but it is more secure when Avithin, and 
 niight afford fresh water. 
 
\ I 
 
 1839.] 
 
 PORT SAN QUENTIN. 
 
 329 
 
 The sandy point on the left side of entrance 
 is situated in latitude 30° 22' N., lonp^itude 115° 50' 
 33" W., Var. 12° G' E. 
 
 The whole coast is dreary, being either sand hills 
 or volcanic mountains, five of which, very remarkably 
 placed, caused one of the early navigators to term it 
 the Bay of Five Hills. It is the Bay of the Vir- 
 gins of former, and Port San Quentin of the later 
 Spanish surveyors. As it appears engraved under 
 the latter, on an extensive scale, (which misled us, 
 and caused our touching,) I have preferred that 
 name for it. 
 
 The island and paps of Las Virgines, are situated 
 to seaward, about two miles from what has been 
 termed Observatoiy Peak in our j)lan. 
 
 We found little to interest us here in the way of 
 natural history. Ducks, curlew, and a few cor- 
 doneces, were all that were noticed. A very neat 
 specimen of rattlesnake, about three feet in length, 
 with nine rattles, was taken alive and preserved. 
 I do not recollect that any new plants were 
 noticed. 
 
 Our examination of San Quentin being com- 
 l)leted, we moved on for St. Bartholomew (or Turtle 
 Bay) and the great bay or gulf of Magdalena, de- 
 spatching the Starling to make the examination of 
 the island of Cerros and neighbouring spots, with 
 directions to rejoin at Magdalena. 
 
 On the 28th we passed th*^ islands of Cerros and 
 Natividad, and on the morning following anchored 
 
330 
 
 SAN BARTHOLOMEW. 
 
 [1830. 
 
 '!:.|i" 
 
 tWfi 
 
 in the bay of San Bartholomew, called also Turtle 
 Bay by the whalers. As my i)rincipal object was 
 tlie position, I could only effect the examination of 
 our immediate anchorage ; but the sheltered position 
 whore the whalers resort to cooper, is within a 
 range of reefs, which divide \e bay, from seaward 
 inwardly, into two parts. 
 
 The surrounding land is high and mountainous, 
 composed, as far as we had opj)ortunity of examin- 
 ing, of every rock occurring in trap formations, but 
 reduced to fragments, not exceeding four or five 
 pounds in weight. Marine sliells, similar to those 
 found on the shores of the bay, were plentifully 
 mixed up with this general debris, and in the 
 layers between some clay beds, crystallized gypsum 
 abounded. 
 
 The bay is formed by a high range of loose cliffs 
 on the north, and fine gravelly bay on the east, and a 
 coarse sandy tongue connects a high peninsula or 
 island at high water in its centre, (forming a third 
 southern bay.) From this peninsula rocks extend 
 northerly, partly under water, jutting into the heart 
 oi' the bay, and forming a safe land-locked position, 
 having five fathoms within. 
 
 The place of observation on the northern head of 
 the bay is situated in latitude 27° 40' N., longitude 
 114° 51' 20" W., variation 10° 46' E. 
 
 The anchorage we took up was in seven fathoms, 
 sheltered from all but S.W. winds, but bad holding 
 uround. 
 
 Hf" 
 
 "W 
 
[1839. 
 
 Iso Turtle 
 jbject was 
 lination of 
 ed position 
 i within a 
 11 seaward 
 
 [)untainous, 
 of examin- 
 lations, but 
 our or five 
 ir to those 
 plentifully 
 and in the 
 zed gypsum 
 
 loose clitfs 
 east, and a 
 ninsula or 
 a third 
 )cks extend 
 o the heart 
 ed position, 
 
 lern head of 
 ., longitude 
 
 ren fathoms, 
 ad holding 
 
 1839.J 
 
 GULF OF MAGDALENA. 
 
 331 
 
 At four we quitted for Magdalcna, where we an- 
 chored on the morning of the 31st. I was fully 
 prepared to have found, as the name imported, an 
 extensive bay; but on entering the heads, which 
 are about two miles asunder, no land could be dis- 
 cerned from the deck, from north-west to north- 
 east or east ; and even after entering, it was quite a 
 problem in this new sea where to seek for an- 
 chorage, our depths at first, even near the shore, 
 ranging from seventeen to thirty fathoms. How- 
 ever, as the prevailing winds appeared to be wes- 
 terly, I dett!rmined on beating to windward, in which 
 it eventually proved I was correct. About four 
 I'. M. we reached a very convenient berth in ten 
 fathoms, with a very sheltered position for our ob- 
 servatory. Preparations were immediately made for 
 the examination of this extensive sea, or what I 
 shall in future term the Gulf of Magdalena. 
 
 It is probable that this part of the coast formerly 
 presented three detached islands ; viz. St. Lazarus 
 range, Magdalena range, and Margarita range, with 
 one unnamed sand island, and numerous sand islets. 
 It is not improbable that its estuaries meet those 
 from La Paz, forming this portion of southern 
 California into an immense archipelago. 
 
 Here we hoisted out the Victoria, and equip}>e(l 
 her for sea service, placing her under the connnand 
 of Mr. Richards, midshipman. 
 
 The first part of our expedition led us u|) the 
 uortiieni bnuich of wliat held out j^iome prospect of 
 
:\',V2 
 
 UKMAUKAIU.K HI',I>.S or MIIKM.S. 
 
 [ih:ji). 
 
 % 
 
 f'-t. 
 
 U 
 
 n iVrsli >vn(rr rivrr, |tnili<'iil!iilv jin f'nM|iiriil miiil\N of 
 rnlllc wtMT iio(i(M<(l. In (lir pnisriMilion nC (Iun pnrl 
 »»r our siirvry \\r iiolicnl tliiit (lio S(. IjII/miiim nm;^<< 
 is oulv comicclcd l»y ii very iinnow l»rll oC niiimI 
 ln'twt'tMi Ihr (wo hnvH, 1111(1 llinl llio HiinmiilH orsoinr 
 ol' llu'S(«Mmnlliills \vrnM'ov(MT(l,iii >i imonI ('xtrnonliiDiry 
 iniiinin', l»y piles of IViigili' hIu'IIs, wliirli n>s<<iiilil(*<l 
 those jound nu'i'Ut in llir }X\\\i. At elcvjitions of 
 lil'ly Jiinl sixty leot, tlM's»« iniiiiitr nml IVn/jfilr shells 
 \v«»ve found /vr/fv7 ; hut on the henehes, either sen- 
 
 wjinl 
 
 or w 
 
 ithiu 
 
 I. not ii shell AVMS visible 
 
 Tl 
 
 ns IS 
 
 Ml 
 
 more extrjionliiiMry.ns tlM>s(> smid \vast«'s .'ireeoiistiintly 
 in niotitm, nnd drowninn' everything els<>, and yet. 
 thes(» sludls.Mreahvnys expos(<d ! On diju'^inu^ heiienth 
 tlu'Ui to erect ninrks, no beds ol'sliell occurred, nothing 
 hut p'ain sand. It was lurtluM* reinarkahh* that they 
 appeared to l>e «'olh<ct(>d in laiiiilies, priu<'i|)ally 'M'ca, 
 venus. cardiuui. aiul niurex. When ostrea ap|)ear(>d, 
 they >vtM'i» by tlieiuselves. 
 
 'riu» clilVs throu_i>hout. the guW abound in orufanic 
 remains, and I cannot but believe that tlu>sani(> cause 
 lias produced the above unaccountahle |)lienoniena 
 Aviiicii I witnessed throughout a raii^'e of at least 
 thirty mih»s. 
 
 Ilavini*' explored the westiM'umost estuary, about 
 seventeen miles north of our observatory, until nt) 
 end ap|)eared to its intricacies, I resolved on Jittem])t- 
 iuij; a secoml, which allbnlod a wider (>ntrance, and 
 offered deej)er water. This was examined about 
 four miles beyond the last, and it still ottered ample 
 
\H'M).\ 
 
 KM'IKKOM. 
 
 :{:t:( 
 
 II or^Miiic 
 unic <'iinN(» 
 i|i(Mioni(>na 
 r at least 
 
 HCO|M« (or riiiployiiH'iit, the julvjilin' hojit hciri^r ut 
 tliiit inoniciit ill roiij- I'litlioiim, niitl <liHt]iiit IiomIh in 
 vi««vv; Imt considf-rin^r (||„t, Hiiniriciit IiimI Ixtm «lonn 
 tu hIiow tiiiit no liopc odrii'd (»(' n'Mcliiiii^ fn-sli vvntcr, 
 uihI the Hiill iim'xi»loi<'(l cxfent of tlii^ ^rulf would 
 <>ii^roHN nil oiir Hpiire lime, I dotcniiiiMMJ on udlicriii^ 
 to ItH iiiiiin ontlineM, wliicli evcnhiiilly ollered no iinin y 
 intriciicioH >im ulnioHt to liallle our piiticiMM^ 
 
 One ('in'iinisliiiifc roiiiHTtcd witli IIm' cxaniination 
 of (lie Hccond (^Htiiary uHonlcd very Ht ron^ pnnd' tliat 
 no (V(iHli-wat<'r Ntrcaiiis were in tlic vicinify. It wnx 
 tlu) i'lU't of lindin^ near our advanced poHilion many 
 Inrpfo Hpci'inicnH of (ho AHtcria McdiHa, or I'iiirvalc, 
 an AHtcria Hcldoni found luit in pure, and ^n'ncnilly 
 diM'pKalt water. At least twenty wen^ taken hy the 
 dre<l^»\ 
 
 \\y Ihe J)tli ol" Noveniiier we Iia<l ns'ielied the 
 eastern en<l <d' the first ^nilf, when tlieslii|) was moved 
 into the second, tlie cliannel or strait connectiri;^ 
 them Iiein^jf not nion^ than a <piarter of a mile wide. 
 I hud l)e<^ii very sanguine in my expectations that 
 W(^ shiuild have: discovered a sale channel out ))y the 
 eastern <'nd of tlMMslaml of Mar^^arita ; hut until 
 satisfied upon that point I took the Starling and boats 
 to (^xph)re. I found that our floats, and, upon 
 emerp^ciK^y, tiie Starling, might have passed out, 
 l)ut it was far too doulitful and intricate for the 
 sliip. 
 
 During tlu; tim(» tlie hoats were thus engaged, I 
 overlooked them from th(^ summit of one of the 
 
 i 
 
:in4 
 
 KXTKNi' or KHTKHOM. 
 
 (Ih:ii). 
 
 'I ' 
 
 ! 1. 
 
 fell 
 
 lii^lu'st iHMiks of lVIar>]^urilsi, jumI piniiily muw the 
 oiitliiios of t)u> sIiouIn, siikI «)illi('iiUy ot'tlio navi^^'itioii, 
 v\'o\\ tor boats. I had also a Wuv view of th(> Houthoni 
 iiniuutUMl ishiiid, which toniiinatod in a cn'scoiit about 
 t(Mi mih'H to tho S. !•). willi a pasHa^o vory Himihir lo 
 tliat imnuMliatoly luMioath. 
 
 Wo ha<l frocpuMitly soon indistinctly tlio outliiK^s 
 of vcrv Inifh inountains to th«' eastward, distant 
 about fifty or sixty miles. hut on this day I 
 couhl detect abrupt breaks, which indicated water- 
 courses lM»tW(»en them, and <'ould plainly follow out 
 the yeUow breaks of dills, as far ivs the ey<' <'ould 
 trace inland. 
 
 I have not the sliohtest doubt that these estuaries 
 i1ow past them, jind |>robably to the very base of 
 the most distant mountains, even into the (lulf of 
 California. As I am informtMl that there are no 
 fresh streams in the district of La l*az, and that 
 similar esteros run westerly from that neighbour- 
 hood, it is not im])robable that they meet. Althouj^fh 
 the solution of this ipiestion may not be conmuM*- 
 cially important, it is (Uie lii^hly interesting in a ^eo- 
 ijfraphical point of view. 
 
 (^n the IStu of November, havinij^ been ei^ht(^en 
 days ensjaijed on this surv(>y, we cpiitted the (iulf 
 of Masjdalena, shai)in^ imr course for Ca[)e San 
 Lucas. 
 
 After all tlie time ex|)ended, inch^pendent of 
 severe labour, on this immense' sheet of water, it 
 will naturally be inquired, VVh.ii advantages does the 
 
[Ih:i<). 
 
 iH:m. 
 
 NAVAI. UKNDKZVOUS. 
 
 [i:\:> 
 
 ■4n\v tlu' 
 vi<!;iilion, 
 <ioutli(>ni 
 nt nlMHit 
 miliir <<» 
 
 (»Ullill(>M 
 
 <lis(iint 
 is (Imv I 
 
 (I WilttT- 
 i||(»W out 
 »yo ('(ml<l 
 
 ostuurii'H 
 
 r Imsc of 
 
 r r.ulf ol' 
 
 •(» arc no 
 
 II h1 til at 
 
 it»lil)our- 
 
 Altliou<>:Ii 
 
 conimor- 
 
 in SI j?oo- 
 
 Mt;lit(^ou 
 
 tiio (;uii" 
 
 'a[)o San 
 
 ndont of 
 water, it 
 (l(»es tlio 
 
 port oH'cr ^ Tlic rrply JH : at the prrscnt nioincnt 
 slu'ltcr; and from Mcvcrnl watrn'onrscH nearly drv 
 at tlie time of oiu- viHJt, it \h rvidcnt tliat very 
 powerful HtreaniH neour the valleys in ti.e v\int<'r 
 Heason, wliicli in this re;,Moii is reckoned hetwocn 
 May and OctolMM*. 
 
 I'ucd ean he easily ohtainiMJ in the esteros, (nian- 
 fjrove.) 
 
 v\s a port for relit after any disaster, it is also 
 very eonvenient; and for this purpose, either <»ur 
 northern or southern observatory hays may lie sc- 
 leeted. The latter would alford better shelter, hut 
 the fornu'r is certainly nnire convenient, and lesf: 
 liable to dilliculty of navigation, th(^ acciiss to it beiu;; 
 eiitir(^ly free from shoals. 
 
 In war it wouM be a most eli^rjble rendcizvous, 
 particularly if watchin*; tlu^ coasts of Mexico or 
 California, as no one could prevent the f<»rmation of 
 an establishment, witlnmt ade(piate naval force; and 
 the nature of tlu^ country itscilf w(»uld not inain- 
 tain an opposing party. 
 
 The island of Margarita would afford an excel- 
 lent site for a deposit for naval stores. Mart(^llo 
 towers on the Ikn'uIs of entrance would completely 
 command it, and, exceptini]^ on the inside, no force 
 could be landcfd. 
 
 Water would doul)tleHs flow into wells, of vvliich 
 wo had proof in spots where the wild beasts had 
 scraped holes; but fn mi some (no doul)t removable) 
 causes, it was intensely bitter. There is notliiii''' in 
 
 Vi\ 
 
330 
 
 ({K0L()(1I(!AL FKATl'llKS. 
 
 [183}). 
 
 I'm 
 
 n 
 
 the geological constitution of the hills to rondor 
 it so. 
 
 The ranges of hills composing the three suites of 
 mountains vary from fifteen hundred to two thou- 
 sand feet, and are composed jiriucipally of frag- 
 ments of hornblende slate, serpentine, sandstone, 
 and primitive limestone. The cliffs at the Mater 
 side are generally mixtures of the above, containing 
 balls of actynolite, serpentine, tremolite, asbestus, 
 amiantus, and in many j»laces extensive iutcr/yim/ 
 beds of organic remains, similar to those occurring 
 recent in the gulf. At one spot in particular, from 
 whence I obtained specimens, the bed was 
 wedge-shaped, running inwards about twenty or 
 thirty feet, and about three feet in thickness at its 
 then outer face. A large portion of the cliffs had 
 fallen and been washed away. This was about a 
 mile inland. The substance above and below was 
 chiefly actynolite and serpentine. 
 
 lix the vegetable kingdom our botanical collectors 
 were not idle. The following is from Mr. Barclay's 
 report : — 
 
 "The plants of this place are of humble growth. If 
 we except the mangrove trees growing upon the 
 banks of the esteros, rhanmus olefolia, and rhamnus 
 cuneatis, together with a soft deciduous tree on the 
 island of Margarita, there will be nothing left de- 
 serving the name of ' tree.' The two species of 
 rhamnus produce a solid reddish-coloured wood, 
 which would at least make good fuel. On the banks 
 
 I.IU: 
 
 !! 
 
[1800. 
 to roiuler 
 
 t suites of 
 two thou- 
 y of fra}?- 
 saiulstoiUN 
 the water 
 containing 
 ', asbestuH, 
 c interhfmg 
 3 occurring 
 icular, from 
 bed was 
 twenty or 
 •kness at its 
 le clitfs had 
 was about a 
 i below was 
 
 !al collectors 
 Ir. Barclay's 
 
 growth. If 
 ig upon the 
 and rhamnus 
 s tree on the 
 ling left de- 
 ^o species of 
 oured wood, 
 On the banks 
 
 1831).] 
 
 BOTANICAL I'KATl'RKS. 
 
 \m 
 
 of the esteros T found Htachvs coccinen, nenionlivlla 
 imniculatsi, and a spccieM of datnra in flower, t«»gctli('r 
 witli a 8cn»phnhinneous hcrbucoons creeper, covered 
 with its pretty flowers, and producin^^ a singularly 
 formed seed-vessel. 
 
 Tile hills are covered with shrnljs, amongst which 
 I found Linaria latifolia, dendronuu-on douglasil, a 
 species of mimosa with scarlet flowers, several 
 curious forms of eui»horbiaceous i)lants, gillia scpiar- 
 rosa, croton pulchella, and asclepias tenella. The 
 cactus family are hero very numerous, as well as rich 
 in variety. The species most deservinof of notice; is, 
 the large cylindrical cactus, which is from twenty-five 
 to thirty inches in height, and from twenty-four to 
 twenty-six in diameter. Mammillaria nobilis often 
 attains a height almvo thirty inches, which is an 
 unusual circumstance connected with the growth of 
 this species. 
 
 Another singular form of this tribe, with flat com- 
 pressed spines, came under my notice. The plant 
 creeps along the surface of the ground, and produces 
 a flower al)out six inches in length, the petals of 
 which are white, with a pink stripe down the centre, 
 which produces a flue effect. 
 
 Of birds but few were noticed. Up the estero I 
 noticed hares and the cordoneces; but, from my very 
 limited visit, I had not time to follow them. 
 
 The cuyotes, or dog-jackall, were numerous about 
 the tents, which they visited after nightfall, but were 
 
 VOL. I. z 
 
'.VAH 
 
 I'.AV or i'W'l) SAN l.l'CAS. 
 
 [\H'.V.). 
 
 \ 
 
 If' 
 
 ■i 
 
 r^ /'• 
 
 V 
 
 :' <l 
 
 ■'I !! 
 
 vuloi'ojisly rcpclird l>y one of our <1()^h, a niixturc 
 of Nootkn uikI IViiiitcr. 
 
 Til concliolonfy, si/c iii:i<l»' u|> lor (Icficicncy ill 
 iniiiilMT, tlu; curiliiini iiiciisuiiii^ about nix or scvcii 
 iiiclics. 
 
 Oil the 'J(Uli Novciiibcr we rcuclwvl ('ii|io Sail 
 liiU'UH, and succocdcd in cstalilisjiin^ its |)ositioii, tiio 
 nliip aiiciioriiio- aliout two, in tliirtccii tatlioiiis Hand. 
 Tlicy woro nearly niakin*( a Hid inistako after sliort- 
 onin;v sail, by Hndin«jf, after th'- cast ten, tliat they lia<l 
 ii<» bottom witli ei<;lity-ei^lit fatiioTUS, just as tliey were 
 about to let ^o tlie anclior. This sliows tiii* neces- 
 sity of keeping tlie lead on tile bottom, before lettin;^ 
 <»'o an anciior. I recollect a corvette losin<i^ an 
 anchor and cables, at TeneriHe, by a similar ne^i^lect. 
 After taking in a sn])ply of wood, water, and ten 
 bullocks, surveying*' the bay, examinin«j^ the country, 
 and con.|»letin<^ our astiHmomical and ma<?netic obser- 
 vations, (durin<^ twenty-six hours,) we cpiittcid this 
 bay for San HIas, where our stores and provisions 
 were to await (mr arrival. 
 
 The bay of San Lncas oilers safe anchora<TC(, and 
 shelter from westerly winds, Imt *« ex])osed to a 
 very heavy and most dannferous sea from the S. W. 
 The soundings are very irregular, and the anchorage, 
 by reason of its great depth in the centre, is com- 
 pletely on a loe-shorc. 
 
 At the village, consisting of four honses, inhabited 
 by two Americans and some Californians, water, 
 wood, cattle, cheese, oranges, and j»umpkins, were 
 
 id") 
 
[1SJ]!). 
 
 
 a mixtun' 
 
 
 I'licicncy ••> 
 
 
 ^ix or Hovi'ii 
 
 
 I Vn\)r SiH» 
 
 
 position, tlio 
 
 
 itlKniiM hsuhI. 
 
 
 al'tiM' sliort- 
 
 
 tliat tlioy luul 
 
 1 
 
 t as tlicy were 
 
 1 
 
 ks tlu^ ncct'H- 
 
 
 iR't'orc U'ttin«5 
 
 
 tto Insinj? un 
 
 
 nilai- lu'^lcet. 
 
 i 
 
 viiWr, hikI t(Mi 
 
 
 tlio ('onntiy* 
 
 
 ajriH'tic ol)sor- 
 
 ' 
 
 } (juittod this 
 
 
 ind provisions 
 
 
 nchorapfo, !in<l 
 
 
 exposed to a 
 
 
 rom the S. W. 
 
 
 the anchorage. 
 
 
 ctMitre, is com- 
 
 
 ls:i!>. ] 
 
 I'Uuhi ( I |(»\s. 
 
 • Nil' 
 
 )iiscs, inhabited 
 ornians, Avater, 
 unii)kins, were 
 
 (•htniiied. Tlic water, which is pronned (Vnin wells, 
 Is sweet when drawn, :ind veiv lirij'lil, Iml is iin- 
 prep^nated with nniriateot' soda and nitre, wliicli pcr- 
 vadi* the soil. It consequently soon piitrifies on hoard. 
 Cattle are tine, varying in price IVoin live to eight 
 dollars, and ships of war calling or passing ry/ ronh' 
 lor San lUasor Mazatlan, will do well to take their 
 hnllocks hen', as the Mexican beet* is very in- 
 ferior, and does not ailbrd as innch nourishment even 
 as the salt provision now supplied t<» her JVInJosty's 
 service. Wood is about the same price as at San 
 lilas. The cheese is good, at times excellent, and 
 may hv procured at any age ; it is the refuse of this 
 market, and at treble j)rice of that M'hicli is met 
 with at Mazatlan or San lilas. 
 
 The country about Ca|)e San Lucas is mountain- 
 ous, and probably granitic; as that found in the 
 peaks in our noigldmurhood, wliicli we ascended, as 
 well as that on the sea border, was a close-grained 
 granite, very much disturbed or upheaved, and in 
 innnense blocks. 
 
 The plains, as well .as the hills, are very abund.ant 
 in cacti, fourteen s])ecies of which were found in 
 one spot. Mr. liarclay remarks, " a handsome spe- 
 cies of lorjinthus here grows upon the cylindrical 
 cactus, a^nothera spectabilis, and a species of 
 gossyj)ium, the bark of which is used for making 
 thread. The vegetation differs but little in generic 
 jtroductions from Magdalena, a circumstance which 
 (Miabled me to procure ri|)e seeds f>f several ]»lauts, 
 
 z 2 
 
1' I. 
 
 It 
 
 It 
 
 % 
 
 :mo 
 
 K'KAdI SAN liLAS. 
 
 [ISSD. 
 
 wliicli I (Hily (»l)t;iiiUM! in llowci- i'lvvious to our 
 jirrivjil id lliis |>l;u'o." 
 
 Tlio ii!ivi;>;itor liiis no liiddcii <l,'iii^ors to t'car ; all 
 arc abovi' water. Aft(>r ronii(lin«>- tlic I'raylos from 
 the wi'stwanl, ho may safoly stand for tlio liouscs, 
 dropping liis anclior in liftcon fathoms. Tiu^ ha«l 
 season is snj)|>osed to (M>mmeneo iu June, and termi- 
 nate on the 1st of November. 
 
 About four 1'. M., on the 24th, we reached San 
 IMas. The sun was obscure<l, and tliere were evi- 
 dent si^ns of the rainy season not having- entindy 
 ceased ; thy people lookin<jf cadavurons and inani- 
 mate, llavino- receivt«d my despatches, and learned 
 that a trans|)ort was waiting" at Mazatlan with 
 stores and provisions, we weighed at dawn, and, 
 favoured by a fri'sh S. J^]. breeze, reached that port in 
 twenty hours ; rather an uncommon passage. 
 
 Unfortunately we found the rains still falling, an«l 
 that our stores and j)rovisions had been warehoused in 
 the Custom-house stf»res, thns giving us the additional 
 trouble and expense of re-embarkation. No time 
 was lost in eH'ecting this, the delay alfording me 
 time to test our magnetic instruments previous to 
 our homeward and long cruise. 
 
 The contents of my instructions authorising my 
 return by the western route, via Tahiti, and other 
 jmints higldy interesting in a magnetic point of 
 view, it became important that a strict scrutiny 
 should take place before my departure, under as 
 great variety of temperature and exposure as I could 
 
 iiaOSS 
 
i8,m] 
 
 MAZATLAN. 
 
 :mi 
 
 ovious to our 
 
 authorising- my 
 abiti, and other 
 lo-nctic point of 
 1 strict scrutiny 
 arture, nndor as 
 posurc as I coukl 
 
 ohtain iidttirnlli/ : havinn" found artlHcinl increase of 
 teniperatun^ involved hygronietric airections, prol)aI)Iy 
 »nore detrimental to the results ohtained tlian any 
 customary atmospheric variations. As I int',ri<led 
 paying a visit to my friend iMr. liarron, at Tepic, 
 I slumld there liavo an opportunity of a ('onsideral)ly 
 lower tem])eratin'e than I could otherwise ol>tain, 
 and the ol)servations would he further interesting 
 from their height of three thousand feet ahove the 
 sea level. Our cliain of meridian distances from the 
 Columbia, and ])orts interjacent up to San lilas 
 and this point, were satisfactorily connected. 
 
 The (piantity of stores (Mubark(>(l amounting to 
 more than twelve montlis for one hundre<l and 
 thirty-six nuMi, for the two vessels, independent of 
 our remaining stock, it became nec(>ssarv to stow 
 the lower deck to the beams Jnid berth our crew on 
 the maindeck. 
 
 On the 4th I)ecend)er, we (|uitted Ma/atlan, hav- 
 ing experienced great attention from the resident 
 mi-rchants. The conduct of Messrs. Kayser, Hayn, 
 and Co., in having charged themselves with the 
 entire transhipjiing our stores, &c., and making the 
 necessary arrangements with the officers of the 
 Custom-house, and refusing commission for the enor- 
 mous trouble, is beyond all j^raise, and I sincerely 
 tru^^ that the government have repai<l them by 
 more than words. 
 
 The ctmduct of the Custom-house authorities also 
 was very sinnlar to that (►f Guayaipiil ; t'u; 
 
:i4'2 
 
 SAN MLAS. 
 
 [ism 
 
 vr 
 
 m 
 
 ■III 
 
 directed tliiit no cliarp^es wluitever nhould be levied ; 
 Jiiid it is but due also to the administnidor to state, 
 that he took u])0u himself the responsibility of act- 
 ing; up to the spirit of this order before its arrival. 
 
 Mazatlan, since our visit in 1^27, has increased 
 from a villa;>i' to a town, and, of course, has also 
 its increase of bad characters. It is djinj^erous to 
 be out at ni^ht, unarmcil or alone. 
 
 The only notices I have from Mr. Barclay are : 
 "The ticus tribe arc amonj^st the leadin<^ features of 
 the forest. Ficus obtnsifolia, when wounded, 
 yields a yellowish faiid of an a«lhcsive nature, which 
 the natives api)ly, in tlie form of a plaster, to broken 
 lind)s, (quebro duro.) The fruit of cathartocarpus 
 fistuloides is used as a purgative; and a shrubby 
 species of verbena, abundant on the hills, is con- 
 sidered a sovereign remedy for asthma." 
 
 We were again fortunate in our breeze, having 
 returned to San Bias in twenty-four hours. Quitting 
 the ship, accompanied by Lieut. K el ictt, and our sur- 
 geon Mr. Hinds, we reached Tepic the following 
 morning, having slept at the half-way house of Dona 
 Manuela, of Navarete. The traces of the rains wore 
 yet fresh, and the roads considerably worse than at 
 my last visit in 1837. Tei)ic, too, seemed to be 
 rapidly declining; the wealth of former days, as 
 well as the lively youthfu' faces, were fast wan- 
 ing. It Mas a melancholy feeling to recall the year 
 1 8l>8. 
 
 Mv kind friend Mr. Banoii received us with all 
 
 ■ i 
 
1839.] 
 
 TEIMC. 
 
 343 
 
 _'(l us with Jill 
 
 the warmth for wliich Ik* is fanuMl, and notliiiit:!^ Mas 
 oniittod to do honour to our visit. Since my last 
 visit Mr. Forbes, ai<l(ul by Jiaron, Forbes, Jun'. and 
 Co., has constructed a cotton factory, sui)erintended 
 by Americans, whi'Oi returns tiieni at ])resent more 
 than ten per cent. A theatre lias bc-en built, very 
 ma«^nificeut for tliis country, and the })erformances 
 are far beyoinl anything one could ex|)ect. The 
 people have also commenced laying out the suburbs 
 in paseos, gardens, &;c., and it is to be hoped that 
 this ]>lace will in a few years, when events which 
 have thrown a gloom over all have been forgotten, 
 oiicc more emerge fVom its present h'thargy. 
 
 During our visit the temperature ranged fi'oni i')(y to 
 76", which answered all my expectations for magnetic 
 purposes. The city and suburbs of Tepic are situated 
 on a flat, formed by a shower of volcanic tufa, resem- 
 bling half burned ])ipe-clay, and generally termed by 
 the residents "pumice." " Pumice" is porous, fibrous, 
 &c. ; but this substance, in addition to my preceding 
 remarks on it, at times proceeds to vitreous masses 
 like jjorcelain. Wherever the rocks protrude, they ap- 
 ])ear to be generally a bluish close-grained basalt, 
 free from crystals of olivine, .and plentifully studded 
 witli minute crystals of fel(lsj>ar. 
 
 The last mails from England having merely 
 brought me copies of former letters, I inferred that 
 it was exjiected I would not lose time in these re- 
 gions, and therefore, taking leave of <»ur kind friends, 
 we returned to San JJlas, and hav'iig completed the 
 rating of our chronometers, prepare<l tor sea. 
 
'■iT 
 
 Vi 
 
 llfilill'llf 
 
 Ki 
 
 I.;;. 
 
 ' ;.!i 
 
 ^ (' 
 
 M 
 
 i 
 
 ni^^l 
 
 
 
 
 m ^ 
 
 •i 
 
 P'i ! 
 
 It 
 
 344 
 
 QUIT SAN BLAS. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 I found the ship too deep to be agreeable, having 
 immersed her copper ; and having previously obtained 
 the permission of the Admiralty, I disposed of the Vic- 
 toria to Mr. Forbes, for £100. This was one of the two 
 vessels constructed in 183(), under my superintendence, 
 for the African survey ; and the same which, under 
 my present first Lieutenant (Monypenny,) in 1833, by 
 mistaking my orders, made her passage from Gib- 
 raltar to England. Having done her duty well 
 during ten years, connected with several of our 
 establishments, we parted with her with mixed feel- 
 ings ; one of satisfaction — that of being relieved from 
 her weight ; but the other of regret, arising from 
 the loss of an old aid and pet, and the certainty that 
 she never could be kept as she had been under the 
 pendant. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Quit San Bias — Island of Socorro— Goats — Does not aflFord 
 water— Braithwaitc's Bay— Clarion Island— Lose anchor- 
 Botany— Fish— No water— Irish eagle sliot— False alarm of 
 breakers— Make the Marquesas— Enter port Anna Maria— 
 Nuhuhiva— Transactions— War in Tabu— Interference to stoj) 
 hostilities— Unsuccessful — Compact of safety to foreign residents 
 —Signed by king and prime ministers— Quit Nuhuliiva. 
 
 It 
 
 im 
 
 II 
 
34() 
 
 QUIT SAN HLAS. 
 
 [183a 
 
 I 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 i] 
 
 ,i| 
 
 On the evcniiio- of the 21st Dec, we quitted San 
 Hlas " lioiiieAvard bouiul," l)ut on a long- but deeply in- 
 teresting cruise, in the novelty and delight of which 
 all seemed to be deeply interested. With light airs 
 from S. E., we cleared Tres Marias, shaping our 
 course for the almost unknown islands of Socorro 
 and Clarion, now, I trusted, to be definitively placed. 
 In this we were entitled to be confident, should we 
 be fortunate enough to obtain a landing, having 
 sufficient proof of the value of our i)resent force of 
 chronometers. 
 
 We ran over the ]>osition of San Benedict 
 without noticing anything like land, and on the 
 25th December hauled to the south for Socorro. 
 About four P.M., having ascertained our position 
 by evening sights, and that the island ought to be 
 visible, I went on deck to examine the horizon, and 
 fortunately discovered its summit on our /jcam. 
 IJut for this accident, we should jiossibly have been 
 
 
 ,•■1 i. 
 
1830.] 
 
 ISLAND OF SOCOltllO. 
 
 :]47 
 
 another «lay seokino- for it. lioforo dark wo had 
 the command of position for its examination tlie 
 next morning, when we ran (h)wn for its soutliern 
 side. The island is h)fty, making in several ])caks, 
 the highest probably two thousand feet above the sea. 
 The eastern coast is very dreary and forbidding. 
 
 About nine we anchored in a small bay, where 
 we ettected a landing and secured our object, be- 
 sides making a plan of what I suppose to be liraith- 
 waite's Bay, of the charts, and in this presuni])tion 
 have assigned that name to it. Landing rocky ; 
 shores of lava coule, and nothing like a beach. 
 Neither wood nor water visible, although, from tlie 
 constant clouds which hang over the high peaks, 
 there must be a supply in some other point. 
 
 Lieut. Wood was despatched to examine the 
 western bay for wood or water. His report (not 
 having landed) was, " that goats were observed, the 
 bay spacious, but no indications of wood or water 
 visible." It is probable that the goats find water. 
 
 I found this island to be placed fifty-two miles fur- 
 ther to the west than laid down in the charts ; but its 
 latitude, correct. It was difficult to penetrate into 
 the interior, even for a few hundred feet, owing to 
 the prevalence of the cactus opuntia ; all who at- 
 tempted to do so suffered for their curiosity. 
 
 One of my boat's crew made himself ill by eating 
 a large boan, which grew abundantly ; but as I par- 
 took of them cooked without injury, I sus[)ect him 
 
 t\ 
 
 I 
 
il I 
 
 348 
 
 TANNERS BKANS. 
 
 [1839. 
 
 ^^1* 
 
 *-;' m 
 
 i ! 
 
 to have indulged too freely. I recollect an instance 
 of a hoy gOigin«v himself with the seeds of the 
 jialnia christi, and swelling to such a degree, that 
 his life nearly paid the forfeit ; yet the instant ho 
 was out of his hed, he was caught with his pockets 
 full, and had eaten about a handful. His excuse 
 was, " Why I ate a pint before I was taken ill." I 
 suppose my youth had followed his exam})le. 
 " Every evil has its use." " Tanner's beans" became 
 a short warning, whenever any one was seen tasting 
 unknown fruits. 
 
 On (juitting Socorro, the Starling wap despatched 
 to search for some other islands supposed to exist 
 to the north-east of Clarion, and rejoin at that 
 rendezvous. We had crossed over part of the same 
 track in 1837 without success. 
 
 On the evening of the 28th we made Clarion 
 Island ahead, and by sunset were off a large bay on 
 the south side, where, by the leadsman, we ought 
 to have found sandy bottom in fifteen fathoms. We 
 anchored, but owing to a sudden swell setting in 
 from S. W., determined on standing off and on 
 during the night. In attempting to weigh, we 
 parted our cable, and lost our pet anchor, which 
 held generally better than a bower, and was only 
 fifteen hundred weight. 
 
 On the following morning I landed on a point 
 of rock, which ran out from a i)eninsula, and secured 
 a good position on the main island for obtaining my 
 
 .'I 
 
 lii * 
 
[1839. 
 
 1839.] 
 
 CLARION ISLAND. 
 
 349 
 
 ail instance 
 eds of the 
 icoreo, that 
 
 instant lio 
 his pockets 
 
 His excuse 
 aken ill." I 
 is example. 
 i3ans*' became 
 , seen tasting 
 
 as despatched 
 losed to exist 
 ejoin at that 
 •t of the same 
 
 made Clarion 
 a large bay on 
 nan, we ought 
 fathoms. We 
 well setting in 
 Iff off and on 
 to weigh, we 
 anchor, which 
 and was only 
 
 ded on a point 
 Lila, and secured 
 or obtaining my 
 
 ol)Hcrvations, the result of wliirh gives this island 
 ten miles to the eastMard of its assigned i)ositi(Hi, 
 and a little to the southward. 
 
 It <lirters slightly in its features from Socorro, ex- 
 ce})ting that a whitish coloured fresh-water lake 
 was found at the beach, and birds vverc more 
 numerous ; viz., gannet, frigate pelican, several 
 varieties of boobies, of tern, ducks, and doves. The 
 plants were more luxuriant, our friend the cactus 
 particularly so, but not so uncourtcous as at Socorro ; 
 it did not entirely stop the way. No streams were 
 noticed. 
 
 Fish were very numerous, and took the bait 
 freely ; but they broke the hooks. Turtle plentiful ; 
 two captured. Mr. Barclay notices, " Argyreia 
 rosea, and a species of ruta, run along the sand, the 
 former extending to upwards of twenty-five feet in 
 length. Cassia pendula, Guilandina bonducella, 
 and a species of tetranthera, are among the plants 
 which I found upon the higher ground. Con- 
 volvulus purpurea, and two species of phaseolus, 
 are abundant in the ravines ; and a species of euphor- 
 bia, like the species heterophylla, and prickly pears, 
 cover the ground in many places, and form a kind 
 of stage for the leguminous plants to run upon." 
 
 The Starling was unsuccessful in her search for 
 the islands, and as the tracks of both vessels in 1837 
 were by day, there can be little doubt that Clarion 
 has been multiplied. 
 
 We were not fortunate enough to find wood or 
 
050 
 
 NO WA'IKU. 
 
 [1H40. 
 
 i^^: 
 
 Hi 
 
 wiiolcsonic water in siny w[iy to justify u vc^sscl 
 s('okin«]f tor tliosc lU'cessarios at those islandn. I'os- 
 si)»Iy distress iiiin^lit l)e relieved, Imt notliiii<if beyond. 
 
 Our course from Clarion was S. E., in order to 
 make sure of any island said to exist in tiiat dire<'- 
 tion ; and having- run twenty-six miles before dark, 
 it was useless to deviate lon^^er from our 
 course ; we therefore bore uway S. W. by S., for 
 the Marquesas. 
 
 For the first few days we experienced a long 
 henvy swell from the N. W., with the wind fresh 
 at N. E. ; and we generally noticed birds. On 
 reaching the parallel 12° N., we first ex))erienced 
 rain, which rendered the sea smooth, but brouglit 
 variable winds and heavy showers. For three days 
 these were very troublesome, and continued so 
 until reaching the fifth degree of north latitude, 
 when the rain dwindled into showers. During 
 this entire route, the gannct, frigate pelican, troj)ic 
 birds, and booby, were constantly noticed. It fol- 
 lows that they are not decisive proofs of the vicinity 
 of land. 
 
 Rains still heavy in the squalls. This morning, 
 9th January, we observed a hawk or fish-eagle 
 flying about the ship. It was shot, but fell over- 
 board, and we were going too fast to pick it up. 
 During the night a calfj which was born on board, 
 leaped tli rough one of the ports, and was lost before 
 a boat could be lowered : as it was not a mmi, she 
 was not In-ouglit to in time. 
 
1H4(K] 
 
 FAF.sk Ai.ARlVI. 
 
 Mf)! 
 
 The old N.W. swell increased far iM'vnnd anvtliiiiir 
 I have before noticed in tlie Pacific. Tlie wind at 
 the same time lianlin<j to the sontiiward, hacked ns 
 ofFto W. S.VV., and in one of the rain s<]ualls tln-ew 
 us so nmch en our lee, that we Hhi|)i»ed nujch water 
 through our maindeck and cabin ports. 
 
 In this s(iuall we observed tlie sunbeams on the 
 horizon, throu<jfh the surroundiuf]^ rains, shinin<r on the 
 crests of the swell resemblini^ very hca> / rollers, and 
 althou«(h I instantly perceived the cause and named 
 it, yet liavin*^ rivetted my attention for some time, 
 I could hardly bring myself to believe they were 
 not heavy rollers, — probably from hearing tliose 
 around me confident that they were so. Upon 
 similar grounds, doubtless, many of the reefs and 
 islands in these seas have been reported. 
 
 On the 14tli, we crossed the equat()r in longitude 
 129° W., no birds, weather fine, air 75° 5, sea 70°. 
 Sent the water-bottle down, and obtained the tem- 
 perature from one to six hundred fathoms. 
 
 On the 15th, the breeze hauled more to the east- 
 ward, enabling us to steer more westerly, which the 
 former variables prevented. At one time I even 
 doubted our reaching the Marquesas. 
 
 On the 16th, in 5° S., we again tried the tem- 
 peratures to six hundred fathoms. 
 
 On the 20th, we made the island of Rooheoah ; or 
 Riou's Island, ahead, and passed on it*: eastern side, 
 with a fine fresh N.E. breeze. 
 
 This island has many remarkable conical rocks, 
 
352 
 
 MARQUESAS, 
 
 [1840 
 
 ili 
 
 irf 
 
 i^i 
 
 und its outlino, ^ciioriilly, is iiuu'li ln'okcii ; jHirticu- 
 liirly towiinls its western extremity, where u cluster 
 of isliiiuls ami rooks form tlie only bay where any 
 prohahility of landing seomod to offer. I am in- 
 formed that this 1)ay has no beach, but that the 
 landin*2f at the rooks is smooth. 
 
 At ten wo saw the island of Nuhuhivah throuirh 
 the haze. As seen from the eastward, it presents a 
 long low point on its north-eastern limit, and high 
 abrupt heads; to the southward, that of St. Martin's, 
 which forms the eastern head of Comj)troller's Bay, 
 being very abrui)t, and capped with masses of rock 
 like ruined castles. I was much disa])j>ointed in the 
 height of the mountains, which I had been led to 
 expect were very lofty, and mention is even made of 
 a cascade three thousand feet in leap. 
 
 The object of my visit recpiiring shelter for the 
 ship, decided me on visiting this island in jjrefer- 
 ence to Santa Christina, and our course was, there- 
 fore, directed for Anna Maria Bay. On opening 
 Point St. Martin, Com])troller s Bay nearly tempted 
 mo to beat in ; but as Vancouver's description of that 
 of Anna Maria showed it to bo preferable, we stood 
 on, not, however, without anxiety, as no trace of 
 an opening seemed to offer within the western 
 point. Suddenly, however, a sandy beach opened 
 behind an island, which i)resently discovered a deep 
 and well-sheltered bay, but rather narrow for 
 working. Shortly after, we noticed an European 
 coming off in awhalo-boat, who proved to be a pilot. 
 
 Ill 
 
[1840 
 
 :on ; purtlcu- 
 loro a cIiiHtcr 
 ^ \vh(M'(i any 
 I ant in- 
 Imt that tlio 
 
 vail tlir<>u«,Mi 
 it proMcntH a 
 lit, and lii^h 
 St. MartinX 
 trollor's Bay, 
 IS80S of rock 
 ointed in tlio 
 been k'd to 
 3VCU made of 
 
 olter for the 
 lid in prefor- 
 e was, tlicrc- 
 
 On opening 
 arly tempted 
 ption of that 
 de, we stood 
 
 no trace of 
 the western 
 •each opened 
 vered a deep 
 
 narrow for 
 11 European 
 to be a pilot. 
 
■. iy , r '^Hi w ■ M W ■ 
 
 I '>l 
 
 ii 
 
 if 
 
 4- / f 
 
 ^P 
 
 % 
 
 ^ti^i 
 
 tl 
 
1840.] 
 
 PORT ANNA >fARIA. 
 
 's:y,i 
 
 Coming from the eastward, the port may he easily 
 known by a very conspicuous Jofty basaltic dyke, 
 which perpendicularly intersects the eastern outer 
 bluff. Vessels intending to enter the bay should 
 keep this bluff about a point on the starboard bow, 
 rounding- the island off it within a cable's length, 
 M'hen the wind generally leads in. All the eastern 
 shores of the bay are " bold to," and free from dan- 
 ger, and the wind will always lead off. 
 
 The view of the entrance of the bav is beautiful, 
 far surpassing anything I have noticed \\\ these 
 seas ; and although rugged, isolated masses of rock 
 here and there start up, to add their sombre effect to 
 the otherwise brilliant tints of the landscape, still 
 the luxuriance of the sloj)es and valleys (and every 
 inch wliere vegetation can thrive is stubbornly con- 
 tested) ]iroduces a sensation which cannot be justly 
 entrusted to pen or ])encil. If one did not asso- 
 ciate gentle slopes and levels with our i«leas of 
 paradise, I should say this is it. To tiujse whose 
 ardour would lead them to inaccessible green spots, 
 where some goddess may dwell, here they Uiay in- 
 dulge ; although, unless endued with the facility of 
 moving through the air, their ecstasy might ooze 
 out before reaching these tempting spots. 
 
 After a very stubborn beat, we reached our an- 
 chorage in nine fathoms about dark, when the rain 
 descended in torrents, not even allowing time to 
 furl, and cooling our ecstasies considerably. 
 
 Having arranged with the pilot to meet me on 
 VOL. I. A A 
 
354 
 
 SUPPLIES TABOOED. 
 
 [1S40. 
 
 ■( ' 
 
 ^;t 
 
 ■li" 
 
 shore the following morning, in order to select a 
 spot for the observatory, where I might be free from 
 the interruption of the natives, I landed at eight, 
 and was not a little surprised at the entire want of 
 curiosity which prevailed. This was soon explained. 
 The king had given out that he expected a British 
 ship of war to aid him in asserting his authority on 
 this island, and particularly to assist him in his im- 
 mediate attack on the natives of the neighbouring 
 bay of Taioa, situated to the westward, over the 
 nearest ridge or neck. We were, therefore, tabooed 
 f m hogs, refreshments, or any intercourse with his 
 followers, until our intentions were explained. 
 
 Being out of his jurisdiction, this rather suited 
 my purpose ; I therefore erected my tents in the 
 eastern unfrequented bay, and quietly proceeded 
 with my pursuits. The ship at the same time com- 
 pleted water from the town, where it w.is soon found 
 that the taboo became a dead letter when interest 
 was concerned. 
 
 The spot selected for our observatory was pre- 
 cisely that occupied by Commodore Porter in 1814, 
 and latterly by the officers of the French expedition 
 hi the Astrolabe and Zel^e, — being a clear sandy bay 
 to the eastward of the Pilot's Hill, which separates it 
 from the town. 
 
 The instant my observations were secured, I 
 visited the king, and informed him., as well as his 
 high priest, chiefs, &c., that as my visit was purely 
 scientific, I could not enter into his views, which 
 
[1340. 
 
 1840.] 
 
 WAR QUESTION. 
 
 355 
 
 to select a 
 e free from 
 jd at eight, 
 tire want of 
 1 explained, 
 d a British 
 ,uthority on 
 1 in his im- 
 leighbouring 
 ■d, over the 
 ■ore, tabooed 
 irsc with his 
 ained. 
 
 rather suited 
 tents in the 
 y proceeded 
 le time coni- 
 is soon found 
 len interest 
 
 )ry was pre- 
 
 ter in 1814, 
 
 3h expedition 
 
 ear sandy bay 
 
 1 separates it 
 
 secured, I 
 as well as his 
 ;it was purely 
 views, which 
 
 were decidedly at variance with anything he could 
 expect from any civilized nation ; and I particularly 
 impressed on the chiefs and people the utter folly 
 of expecting aid in their brawls from any power. 
 But as I thought that I might possibly be of assist- 
 ance in moderating, if not entirely quelling, their 
 belligerent ardour, I requested the attendance of 
 himself and chiefs at my tent the following day, 
 where I had also invited to meet them, the resident 
 missionary, Mr. Thompson, who was also very nnxions 
 to put an end to the war. 
 
 The party having assembled, I proceeded to ex- 
 plain that it was, in the iirst place, perfectly impossi- 
 ble that the king could have been promised the aid 
 of Great Britain ; that neither arms nor amnmni- 
 tion could be afforded by my ship, nor by any vessel 
 which followed, and that Great Britain, as well as 
 every civilized nation, would deprecate their conduct. 
 
 On the other hand, I volunteered to go with the 
 king, and his friend Mr. Thompson, in the Starling, 
 to negociate peace with the chiefs of Taioa and their 
 allies, and to use all my weight in obtaining advan- 
 tageous terms, provided they consented to forego 
 their present warlike intentions; — it being their 
 presumed intention to fight the ensuing day. 
 
 I endeavoured also to convince the chiefs of the 
 absurd falsehoods by which the king had blinded 
 them, and to warn them not to commence hostilities 
 until I had communicated with the Taioans ; and that 
 if they acted in opposition, and injured any of my 
 
 A A 2 
 
3.10 
 
 WAR SUSPENDED. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 fl| 
 
 ri; 
 
 Ni 
 
 i Jl 
 
 !!:■ !i 
 
 men, they might possibly find me a more important 
 foe than the natives of Taioa Bay. 
 
 They had fully set their minds on a Jiyht ; 
 whether death or not ensued, to them it was unim- 
 portant, sa long as their powder was expended by 
 musket ; ball was not important ; noise was impera- 
 tive. They were, however, persuaded to bottle up 
 their valour until my departure, which was at least 
 half a battle curtailed. 
 
 The king Moana, who is about twenty-two years 
 of age, is the grandson of tlie chief installed king 
 by Commodore Porter, who waged war on the 
 neighbouring bays, and reduced them to subjection. 
 He states that an attempt was made on his life by the 
 l)arty in Taioa, and that he left the islands in a mer- 
 chant vessel, and visited, England where some trouble 
 was taken to civilize him. Mr. Thompson, the mis- 
 sionary above alluded to, fell in with him at the Navi- 
 gator's group, where he was a slave, and brought 
 him to Tahiti, and thence hither, having clothed 
 and taken care of him. In stature he is about five 
 feet eight inches, not well built, sadly wanting in 
 personal courage, is not a good-looking person, and 
 without any one feature to command respect or 
 attachment ; and, further, his best friends assert that 
 he is not deficient in ingratitude, and every other 
 bad feeling. Revenge, sulky, moody revenge, alone 
 actuates him in the present war. 
 
 I am inclined to believe that such utter depra- 
 vity as he manifests cannot be inherent. He is 
 
1840.] 
 
 STARLING VISITS TAIOA BAY. 
 
 3.")7 
 
 too stupid to be so excited as lie appeared to be ; 
 and I would rather suspect him to be the tool of 
 the chiefs interested in the plunder and murder of 
 their neighbours. 
 
 Finding that my arguments failed in putting an 
 end to the war, I inquired, supposing they suc- 
 ceeded in conquering Taioa ; " What do you intend 
 to do with the people ?" He replied, " To take half 
 of their people and i>roperty, and put as many of 
 my people into that bay, transferring the others 
 hither." 
 
 I then warned him, that as France and Great 
 Britain had landed missionaries to dwell an Oiigst 
 them under guarantee of their safety, (Moana hav- 
 ing adopted Mr. Thompson as a chief equal to him- 
 self,) that both countries would narrowly look into 
 their proceedings, and most scrupulously as regarded 
 their subjects ; and that the day had passed when 
 savage brutality had been permitted its scope. If 
 they ever expected to be treated as beings within 
 the pale of rational creatures, that they must con- 
 form themselves to the laws of nations. At the 
 same time, I took care to point out the recent cases 
 of interference, both at Sandwich Islands and Tahiti, 
 of which Moana was perfectly aware. 
 
 As the weather had not favoured my observations, 
 I despatched the Starling, with Mr. Thompson and 
 the pilot, to Taioa Bay, to try what power they 
 might have in terminating difficulties, or ending 
 this fooli)!ih war. On their return, Lieut. Kellett 
 
358 
 
 TERMS PROPOSED. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 F II' 
 
 : ;i.. 
 
 i ' 
 
 ■.,■: • 
 
 • 
 
 I' ' f 
 
 reported that they were averse to war ; but, if at- 
 tacked, would strenuously defend their possessions ; 
 " they certainly would not go out of their valley to 
 fight. If the king would consent to peace, they 
 would give him the customary feast, and receive 
 him cordially ; but would not yield the sovereignty 
 of the bay : the question of a chief {king they ac- 
 knowledged none) ruling more than his own valley, 
 being foreign to their original dispositions." His 
 absence has, indeed, rendered him in their eyes de- 
 funct. 
 
 This communication did not alter the plans of 
 the chiefs. I desisted from further conference ; the 
 king, however, frequenting my tent with less re- 
 serve, unattended, and sending trifling presents. 
 
 In order to obtain hogs for the crew, curiosities, 
 &c,, as well as to ascertain the nature of the bay, 
 and the disposition of its nature, I made a party to 
 visit Tacapa, one of the bays within Comptroller's 
 Bay. Taking with me Lieut. Kellett, the surgeon, 
 and pilot, we proceeded in one of the cutters, and 
 reached the bay about half-past ten. 
 
 Comptroller's Bay is an extensive aim, running 
 in above five miles from St. Martin's Point, and 
 contains three distinct bays, that to the eastward, 
 inhabited by the distinct race of Typees, being com- 
 pletely divided by a peninsular tongue. They are 
 at war with those of Tacapa and Acapa, the next 
 western bay, and are described by our pilot as a 
 more warlike people. On one occasion they cap- 
 
1840.] 
 
 VISIT TACAPA. 
 
 359 
 
 tured the master and mate of a vessel, which an- 
 chored there ])y mistake, and did not surrender 
 them without heavy ransom. They have at times 
 ventured in their war canoes to punish their ene- 
 mies to tlie westward. In the present war they 
 are opposed to Moana. 
 
 Our visit to Tacapa merely assured us of the in- 
 tention of this and the Acapas to espouse Moana's 
 marauding expedition. But few articles weie ob- 
 tained from them ; musket;: and powder being the 
 general demand for hogs, or war-clubs. We re- 
 turned about sunset. The most remarkable fea- 
 ture in the people of this bay, was the prevalence 
 of disease. Hardlv an individual was free from 
 some disgusting disease or deformity. 
 
 As we failed in our endeavours to obtain hogs, the 
 pilot pressed the purchase of a bull, cow, and heifer, 
 which would otherwise be sacrificed at the war 
 feast, and therefore i)rove a total loss to him. I 
 consented, but would willingly have pt^id their value 
 to have ensured their lives after my departure. As 
 I found this could not be guaranteed, they were 
 embarked for the use of her Majesty's subjects, in- 
 stead of these half (if not entire) cannibals. 
 
 Daily threats having been made by the king and 
 chiefs to destroy Lovell, (the pilot,) the moment we 
 departed, asserting that by his instrumentality I 
 had refused them assistance, and these tlireats as- 
 suming a more determined aspect, from a quarrel 
 with another Englishman, (his partner,) whom Lovell, 
 
 
 :i 
 
3G0 
 
 SUMMON KING AND CHIEFS. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 •I ,^' 
 
 i I 
 
 W^ 
 
 % 
 
 i 
 
 * II 
 
 ' 
 
 1'' I;." 
 
 111 
 
 M. ¥i 
 
 -i 
 
 in self-defence, had cu in the head witii a sword, 
 but who had joined the king's party in order to 
 be revenged; — and further, the queen-dowager's 
 party (adverse to the war) having threatened to 
 destroy Mr. Thompson, the missionary and adopted 
 friend of Moana, if Lovcll, her adopted, was touched ; 
 — I sent for tlie king, queen, chiefs, and Britisli 
 subjects in question, (at the siiin(! time issuing in- 
 structions for the sliij) to cover the hinding party, 
 and tlie Starling to warp within pistol-shot,) 
 and having explained to them the reports I had 
 heard, demanded from tlie king and his prime 
 minisier a distinct engagement that he would hold 
 himselt and chiefs responsii»k' for any acts com- 
 mitted against the persons or i)ioperty of J British 
 subjects resident. 
 
 I further assured him, that I should transmit 
 copies of this document to the admiral, and the first 
 ship of war callmg at these islands, and that the 
 terms of this contract would be most rigorously 
 enforced. This was duly signed by himself and 
 prime minister. 
 
 The scene was not without effect. Seated 
 on the ground on my left, was the sister of the 
 king, a very fine powerful young woman, of about 
 twentj ; this being the first occasion of my learn- 
 ing that he had any near relative. On the right sat 
 the queen-dowager, the remains of a ve>-y superior 
 woman, and the ally of Commodore Porter. Both 
 were in tears ; and altheugh both were diametrieaily 
 
 f'i 
 
 in 
 
 'It 
 
 i ( 
 
[1840. 
 
 h a sword, 
 n order to 
 i-do\vagers 
 eatened to 
 nd adopted 
 IS touched ; 
 ind British 
 issuing in- 
 ling party, 
 pistol-shot,) 
 lorts I had 
 his prime 
 would hoM 
 acts c^/m- 
 of Britisli 
 
 id transiuit 
 iiid the first 
 id that the 
 rigorously 
 limself and 
 
 it. Seated 
 ster of the 
 n, of about 
 f my learii- 
 le right sat 
 -y superior 
 rter. Both 
 iametricaily 
 
 1840.] 
 
 TREATY SIGNED BY KINO. 
 
 :]oi 
 
 opposed in politics, their heads were inclined on 
 either knee, looking up most imploringly for ]>ro- 
 tection ; the one for her brother, the other for her 
 adopted (Lovell.) 
 
 The signature of the document (lis])(>lled all fears, 
 and the sun again beamed through their dark 
 tresses. 
 
 But their astonishment and alarm were now 
 directed to other objects. They found themselves 
 entirely circumscribed l)y an armed force, the sea 
 only, with the Starling within half pistol-shot, and 
 shi])'s })roadside, open to them. This was as in- 
 stantly dispelled by signal, and all again was peace 
 and harmony. 
 
 Had hostilities been wantonly commenced, I 
 should have invited the parties in my power to re- 
 main on board the Sulphur, until I placed them 
 upon some other island. 
 
 From the disposition of these people, from per- 
 sonal observation, I certainly am much inclined to 
 term them well disposed and easily managed. At 
 the same time I do not think them likely to be 
 driven to consent to any act commenced under hos- 
 tillty. 
 
 I had a distinct reason for acting in this case with 
 some parade of force. It had been communicated 
 to me that a visit from a foreign vessel of war, on a 
 commission to jmnish, had been null, and that the 
 natives derided the idea of a ship injuring them. 
 
 The facility with which the movement was 
 
 \\ i 
 
302 
 
 HKHAVIOUR OF NATIVES. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 U 
 
 J : i, 
 
 ottbcted, and without the slightest trace of ill-feeling, 
 reassured the British residents, and reniove<l from 
 my mind any cause for apprehension after my de- 
 parture. 
 
 The foreign residents assert, and visits to Taioa 
 and Tacapa prove, that the natives of this bay, since 
 the arrival of Moana, are the most troublesome ; and 
 l)ut for his re-introduction, peace would have reigned. 
 
 Nothing like rudeness or incivility was witnessed 
 by any of us. One or two thefts were asserted to 
 have been committed ; but I am inclined to 8us})ect 
 they were exchanged for "value received." That 
 many thefts did not occur surj)rises me, for they 
 never could have been achieved with less suspicion or 
 less fear of detection — so constantly did I observe 
 things at their mercy. 
 
 The group of islands consists of nine in number, 
 viz., Nuhahiva, or Nuuhiva; Uapou; Tahuata, or 
 St. Christina; Mohotani, or San Pedro; Fatuiva, 
 St. Magdalena ; Hiraoo, La Dominica ; Uahuga, or 
 Uahuna. Vaitahu is one of the bays of Tahuata ; 
 Taiohae bay, the people of which Teii ; Hakaui 
 Bay, the people of which Tioa. Population of the 
 group is estimated at 1 5,000. The language of Nuha- 
 hiva consists of fourteen letters. 
 
 Two Roman Catholic French missionaries reside, 
 to whom the natives go for instruction ; but the ex- 
 tent of their conversion is limited to accurately 
 mimicking their teachers : of this we had strong 
 proof at Tacapa. They were in bad health, and 
 
1840.] 
 
 ISLAND OF I'REDI'RIATIK. 
 
 3G3 
 
 visited by our surgeon. I iiuich doubt of any succoss 
 to either inisnion for some time, certainly not until 
 their ditferences are settled. 
 
 Of the productions of Port Amui Maria little can 
 be said. IIo<!;h, jjoultry, and fruit, may be procured 
 for muskets ; water is plentiful, and flows into the 
 sea, where hoses can be conveniently led. 
 
 On the 30th Jan. we quitted Nuhahiva, directing 
 our course towards tlie island of Predpriatie of Kot- 
 zebuo, in our route to Pow Island, where I had de- 
 termined to commence our borin<^ operaticms. 
 
 On the 3rd February, at noon, land was reported 
 in the anticipated direction, and as the deviation of 
 a few degrees in our course would retard us but 
 little, I kept away in order to ascertain how the 
 j)osltion of this island (referred to Tahiti) would 
 attect the longitudes of that navigator. Nor will it, 
 I trust, be i)resuming in me, with the instruments 
 entrusted to me, and recent data at Nuhahiva, in 
 assuming that we could set this matter at rest; 
 because, on reference to the work of that ofticer, I 
 find him using a lunar distance, within a few days, to 
 verify a fonner longitude. To those who are 
 acquainted with the use of chronometers, and such 
 machines as those embarked in the Sulphur, it is 
 merely necessary to hint that seconds of longitude 
 would be our maximum error. 
 
 Having very smooth water, and a breeze nicely 
 adapted to our operations, a rough outline was made, 
 by which we found but slight difterence in latitude ; 
 
 i.: 
 
 )' 
 
 H I 
 
 ■ 
 
:]C4 
 
 MILKINKMH OV OCKAN. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 \ \'/ 
 
 I ':' 
 
 I, > 
 
 i|- M 
 
 he having taken the fentro of the iHhind, 1 a cocoa- 
 nut tree. 
 
 On nearing the ishind, we perceived tlio natives 
 flocking to the beach, and ohserved an apparent 
 opening to the higoon, at the S.E. angle of the 
 island. The heiglit of tiie land (h»es not in any place 
 exceed tliat of general coralline forinationn, the trees 
 in the clumps appearing to be pandanus, with pos- 
 sibly some of the ficus tribe, which I have seen on 
 some of the Coral Islands. lUit 1 have never iiotice<l 
 the bread-fruit, and 1 believe, from in(|uiries made, 
 that it is not known in these regions ujmn coral for- 
 mations. 
 
 It would be waste of time to say more respecting 
 this island than that it is one of the Palliser Grouj) ; 
 for whether thoy be added now, or at the time of the 
 discovery of their first existence, is immaterial. 
 They were all well known amongst the natives of 
 these seas, under tlie title of the Paumotas ; and 
 have long been well known to those resident at 
 Tahiti, mIio trafficked amongst them years before 
 ships of war were so common in these parts. 
 
 Here the opening is on the weather side of the 
 island ; and as it seems to be a theoretical assertion 
 that the reverse is the general law, I shall call this 
 No. 2 — Clipperton being No. 1. 
 
 Our attention this morning had been excited by 
 an unusual milkiness of the sea, so nmch so that I 
 suspected we were in soundings. Exj)eriment 
 settled this in the negative, as deep as two hundred 
 
[1840. 
 I n t'oc'on- 
 
 ho luitivcs 
 
 o-le of tlio 
 
 n 
 
 I siiiy places 
 ^, tlio trees 
 1, with \)OH- 
 ve seen on 
 vcr noticed 
 irieH nuulo, 
 n coral for- 
 
 ( respectinj^ 
 ser Group ; 
 time of the 
 iiuiuaterial. 
 natives of 
 iotas ; and 
 resident at 
 3ars before 
 i-ts. 
 
 riide of the 
 al assertion 
 all call this 
 
 excited by 
 so that I 
 Experiment 
 vo hundred 
 
 1840.] 
 
 now ISLAND. 
 
 'M'i 
 
 fatlu)ins. It therefore must he uttrihuted to tiu' 
 molhisca, — which we havi« remarked (narticuiarlv 
 of hite) are more ahuu<hmt in the vicinity of 
 ishinds, and at sonu- distance from land. This 
 remark nuiy he noticed in our passa<(e across tiu' 
 meridians 130 to IJUrW., when searcliinj;- for re))orte(l 
 ishinds in 1837 and 1H38. 
 
 A parallel feature to this, noticeil hy nie durin"- 
 nearly thirty years, is that the massive Medusa', 
 "generally termed " Blubber," are seldom imtic{»d out 
 of the influenct; of Iar«;e rivers or actuaries, and 
 abound particularly in discoloured water. 
 
 On the 5th of February, at dawn, \vv discovered 
 Bow Island, and ran alon<>- its S.E. side, to the en- 
 trance; which we reached about three p.m., and 
 found a very strong ebb, with overfalls running out. 
 I therefore determined on landing for evening sights, 
 and examining the probability of entry before night. 
 Accompanied by Lieut. Kellett, I entered the pas- 
 sage against a four knot current, but by keeping 
 close to the rocks, and tracking the boat along 
 the reef, reached the eastern point of entrance, where 
 about fifteen or twenty natives had assembled to re- 
 ceive us ; half in fear, half in joy. 
 
 Trusting in some degree to the chance of high- 
 water at noon, and knowing that smooth water at 
 all events would be found at daylight, we lay off and 
 on until the morning, when, with a fine wind abeam, 
 we entered the channel. For a long, and tedious 
 period, with rocks not more thaA a few feet from her 
 
 il 
 
 i.>: 
 
t 
 
 VA] 
 
 
 3CG 
 
 BORINO OPERATIONS. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 keel, the ship held her own, but the breeze slacken- 
 ing, and tide increasing, she lost her steerage and 
 touched. This was of little consequence, the tide 
 carrying her out, where I left her in deep water, 
 and landed to secure further observations. The ebb 
 did not slack until three p.m., therefore the assertion 
 respecting noon hi^h-watcr at tlie Coral Islands falls 
 to the ground. 
 
 At three we entered, and anchored at a position 
 which I had estimated as affording us every advan- 
 tage. But the anchorage proving unsafe, I shifted 
 to the I'^^BSom's anchorage, which appeared to 
 afford moie shelter from the prevailing breezes. 
 
 Selecting sandy spots for placing our anchors, we 
 moored the ship, and commenced our refit ; landing 
 all our spars, plank, &c., adapted for boring opera- 
 tions, which I had fortunately collected on our 
 northern trip. 
 
 The apparatus furnished for this service being 
 similar to that used for boring for water in England, 
 needs but little description ; comprising augers of 
 various sizes; iron tubes of three inches internal 
 bore; and twenty-fieet bars connected by scrong 
 Joints with male und female screws. But; as I 
 f^iresaw, these were not calculated for the service we 
 were about to undertake. 
 
 To work these augers, it was necessary to raise a 
 strong scaffold more than twenty feet above our 
 working level ; and during V.xi interval employed 
 upon this duty, a party sunk a well of six feet square 
 
 in 
 
[1840. 
 
 slacken- 
 rage and 
 the tide 
 p water, 
 The ebb 
 assertion 
 ands falls 
 
 I position 
 ry advan- 
 I shifted 
 jcared to 
 ezes. 
 
 ichors, we 
 ; landing 
 ng opera- 
 l on our 
 
 ice being 
 England, 
 augers of 
 internal 
 by scrong 
 3ut; as I 
 service we 
 
 to raise a 
 
 ibove our 
 
 employed 
 
 eet square 
 
 1840.] 
 
 BORING OPERATIONS. 
 
 307 
 
 and six feet in depth, which was secured from tum- 
 bling in by strong piles, plank, and wattling of the 
 cocoa-nut and pandanus leaves. 
 
 In the centre of this area a forty-gallon cask was 
 sunk, fonning a well, into which one of the lift pum])s 
 was introduced. By this arrangement we gained 
 a depth of seven feet, and secured the workmen 
 from annoyance by the loose sand and water, before 
 entering the tools. Fresh water flowed abundantly 
 at five feet ; but on the second day, probably from 
 the fermentation of the leaves, it was too offensi 'c 
 to drink. 
 
 I have been particular in stating our proceedings, 
 in order to show that more than ordinary atteniion 
 was paid to this duty. The ))oring commenced on 
 the second day, under the especial superintendence of 
 an officer, attended by his boring party, and a com- 
 plete journal was kept of the progress or retardation. 
 The material through which the auger had to pass 
 was a fine coralline sand, which yielded with diffi- 
 culty, although very soft. This arose from lateral 
 pressure. A small piece of coral became a great 
 obstruction, and the attempt to crush it lost much 
 time, owing to the yielding nature of the sand. 
 
 Recourse was had to the pipes at nearly the com- 
 mencement of the operations, and all the valved 
 tubes and angel's being defective from corrosion, (hav- 
 ing been originally stowed \n the pump well,) our 
 blacksmith was kept in constant employ, making 
 and altering tools to fit. 
 
368 
 
 BORING OPEKATIONS. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 .'I i 
 
 V 
 
 By perseverance, and several contrivances, forty- 
 five feet of pijje were entered — when the lateral pres- 
 sure became too great for the joints, and the solder 
 gave way. Had we been provided with three sets 
 of pipes capable of being passed within each other, 
 I am confident we should have proceeded with 
 rapidity. In fact, either an express borer by 
 profession, with his smithy force, should be sent for 
 such work, or the ofiicer who is to conduct it should 
 satisfy himself, before undertaking such service, as to 
 the tools he requires. 
 
 With naval men the word " impossible" only turns 
 up when that expression can be clearly demon- 
 strated ; and although I plainly foresaw the difficul- 
 ties, I yet fancied that we might master them. 
 Wooden tubes five feet in length by two inches inter- 
 nal square, were prepared at the scene of operations, 
 to receive each charge brought up, which was duly 
 inserted, from a graduated plank on which it was 
 previously dried ; and recorded in the journal ; and a 
 glass tube on a reduced scale, of one inch to the foot, 
 was similarly prepared from the dry mixture. 
 
 Frequently, on the withdrawal of the tool, its re- 
 insertion would shew a diminution of two feet, aris- 
 ing from the falling in or caving of the loose matter 
 below; and although merely of the consistence of 
 cream, the tubes could only by difliculty and much 
 humouring be moved down. These disadvantages 
 must, to the eye of any o])erative, be very api)arent ; 
 and it must be allowed to those of sanguine tenipe- 
 
[1840. 
 
 1840.] CESSATION OF THE HORING OPERATIONS'. 369 
 
 ?, forty- 
 ral pres- 
 le solder 
 rec sets 
 h other, 
 ed with 
 lorer by 
 ! sent for 
 it should 
 ice, as to 
 
 nly turns 
 ' demon- 
 3 diffic'ul- 
 ;er them, 
 hcs inter- 
 perations, 
 was duly 
 h it Avas 
 lal ; and a 
 the foot, 
 e. 
 
 ol, its re- 
 feet, aris- 
 ise matter 
 isteuce of 
 md much 
 dvantages 
 apparent ; 
 le tempe- 
 
 rament to be extremely harassing;. Rut I must say 
 that it did not influence our working party, who con- 
 tinued with the same spirit as if the comnmnication 
 with home was to be effected through that aperture. 
 
 Against these disadvantages we continued to 
 work until the seventeenth, when, having reached 
 the depth of forty-five feet, the sudden falling in from 
 beneath so effectually locked the tool that no direct 
 moderate force on the levers could move them. Re- 
 course was then had to purchases, in order to save 
 as much of the iron material as possible. 
 
 After some very powerful ones had failed, I deter- 
 mined to put the iron to the test, and with a force 
 of fifty men on a purchase computed at twenty tons, 
 parted the bar, which measured one inch square. 
 
 Thus, after thirty-five days' labour, ended our 
 operations, — at all events fully coinciding with my 
 prediction that nothing harder than sand could be 
 found below twenty feet. My reason is, that in 
 every operation in which I have personally been 
 engaged, and from the general opinion of those who 
 navigate these coral islands it is clearly understood, 
 and on a small scale been proved, that the corallines 
 are " mushroom featured" — that they can be lifted 
 by the anchor, by hand, and that their bed is soft. 
 If there is any credit due to the history of the 
 Bounty, she steered for, and ran down, the mushroom 
 obstruction of Toobooai ; and the Blossom's counter 
 sent one over when warping out at Tahiti. I have 
 other reasons to allege presently. 
 
 VOL. I. n n 
 
 i 
 
370 
 
 PERPETUATE THE l.JC'ALITY. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 It-:. 
 
 Another attempt to bore through the coral reef on 
 the outer belt of the island failed, owing to the borer 
 getting jammed at the depth of nine feet. I fully 
 expected to have met sand there also, as the deeper 
 they went the softer it proved, and the water 
 flowed. 
 
 The section of the island was taken from the 
 outer surf line, over the spot where the boring was 
 carried on, through the lagoon, to where the ship was 
 moored. A very close survey was taken of every 
 rock above water, and every knoll near the surface ; 
 that is, each main rock of the boundary belt of the 
 inner ledge or reef. 
 
 A pier of six feet in width, and eighteen inches 
 above the ordinary tides, was carried out on the 
 section line seventy-five feet. 
 
 Seventeen cocoa-nut trees were planted at fifteen 
 feet asunder, nearly on the same line, (there are two 
 lines of othei- cocoa-nuts i)lanted near the tent by 
 some other jmrty ])rcceding us,) and a plate of cop- 
 per bearing the following inscription, by punched 
 holes, was nailed to the cocoa-nut tree nearest the 
 pipe. 
 
 II. D. M. SHIP SULPHUR, 
 
 CAPTAIN BELCHER, 
 
 BORED THIS ISLAND FORTY-FIVE FEET, 
 
 WHEN THE AUGKR BROKE. 
 
 TUBE S G5" W., 40 FEET. 
 
 MARCH 20th, 1340. 
 
 Nothing, I trust, was left undone to enable future 
 
 i f I 
 
- MtHJ^ 
 
 1840. 
 
 ecf on 
 borer 
 
 I fully 
 
 deeper 
 
 water 
 
 jm the 
 ing was 
 hip was 
 .f every 
 surface ; 
 ,t of the 
 
 a inches 
 b on the 
 
 it fifteen 
 are two 
 tent by 
 of cop- 
 punched 
 
 larest the 
 
 1840.] 
 
 KXAMINE Tin-: ISLAND. 
 
 371 
 
 )le future 
 
 voyagers to test tlie operations of these important 
 hibourers, the lithopliytes, 
 
 The tide gauge was in oj)L'ration <hu-ing this inter- 
 val, but iiM register, although conducted to parts of 
 an inch by a newly-constructed tide gauge, will 
 throw no light upon this important question. Ob- 
 servations were continued for days on the outer side, 
 which point out that whatever may be the peculiarity 
 to be hereafter determined at Tahiti, Bow Island 
 does not subscribe to high-water at noon. 
 
 On our first arrival the observatory was landed, 
 and as soon as the moon culminated, after day-light, 
 and the boring was in full train, I started with 
 Lieut. Kellett in the Starling, on a magnetic tour of 
 the principal extremities of this island. These posi- 
 tions were also secured in latitude and longitude, and 
 thus determiuQ its boundaries. 
 
 As Bow Island may be considered free from ob- 
 jections which would apply to basaltic or volcanic 
 formations, I took advantage of this visit to ensure 
 a most complete set of magnetic o])servations, in 
 order to compare w ith Tahiti, now considered as a 
 standard position. 
 
 In natural history the collection was materially 
 increased, particularly by sevei.l varieties of curi- 
 ously formed as well as beautifully coloured fish. 
 
 The water obtained at Bow Island is not wliole- 
 somc, unless for immediate consumption; and even for 
 tins purpose, although none of our crew were imme- 
 diately affected, I have considerable doubt. It was 
 
 n n 2 
 
372 
 
 THE NATIVES. 
 
 [1040. 
 
 11 
 
 repeatedly tried, particularly on board the Starling, 
 but immediately became offensive when confined or 
 put into tanks. 
 
 It is worthy of special attention, to other visitors, 
 that the water obtained by digging within four feet 
 of the flow of the sea, and allowed to settle, and 
 then rc-haled^ was preferred by the natives, and ap- 
 proved by ourselves. 
 
 I^revious to our arrival, we had anticipated much 
 inconvenience from the presence of the natives, and 
 contemplated various schemes to keep them away. 
 Much to our surprise, gratification, and even assist- 
 ance, we found them rather an ac(piisition. I sus- 
 pect that Captain ]3eecliey never could have seen 
 the naticcs of this island. They must have been 
 the natives of Anaa, belonging to the diving com- 
 pany of the Dart, then at anchor. 
 
 None of this party recollected the Blossom, with 
 the exception of one, a cripj)le, mentioned in my 
 journal of that date, whom I met on detached ser- 
 vice, in the barge, at the S. E. cocoa-nuts. He 
 perfectly recollected me, as well as my taking the 
 drawing and dimensions of his extraordinary arm. 
 
 This race deserves a better character than Captain 
 Beechy gave of the party; although the general 
 habits of the low islanders are much the same. 
 These men are some of the finest, best built, and 
 handsomest I have seen with dark skins. Their 
 tempers will almost bear comparison with those of 
 Loochoo, excepting that they arc to be preferreil 
 
1040. 
 
 irling, 
 [(id or 
 
 isitors, 
 Lir feet 
 e, ami 
 Liid ap- 
 
 mucli 
 es, ami 
 L away. 
 I assist- 
 
 I sus- 
 ,e seen 
 e been 
 oc com- 
 
 m, with 
 1 ill my 
 led sor- 
 ts. He 
 Ling the 
 arm. 
 Captain 
 general 
 le same, 
 lilt, and 
 . Their 
 those of 
 ireferred 
 
 1840.] 
 
 IIAIJITS AND CHARACTER. 
 
 373 
 
 for openness and attachment. In affection for each 
 other, and to their children, they are patterns. In 
 honesty I believe them to be above the generality 
 of uncivilized beings. Living as they do by fishery la- 
 bour, it is not to be supi)0'5ed that any great beauties 
 wouid be encountered. 1 he) are generally as good- 
 looking as the Sandwich ialanders. All women in 
 savage life arc old at twenty, and ugly beyond that age; 
 but there is a motherly kindness, something wimiiug 
 even in the oldest and ugliest, as we saw completely 
 verified in their donations. The children are un- 
 accountably pretty, and the only drawback is the 
 unfortunate pest to which all thick-haired natives, 
 even of favoured Tahiti, are subject. Even here, Tahi- 
 tian fashions prevail : they shave the whole crown of 
 the head, and cut the remaining hair short, to obviate 
 the evil referred to. Some few indeed wereexcei)tions, 
 and on inquiry, I found that their brothers would not 
 l>ermit them to cut their long straight hair, because 
 they used it for fishing lines. 
 
 We had daily opportunities of witnessing their 
 feeliiiffs towards each other. As I dined at mv 
 tent, I caused a large iron pot of pea-soup to be 
 made for them daily, which, with the addition of 
 biscuit, was regularly placed before the party 
 encamped at the tent\ Until all were served, in 
 leaves provided by themselves, they rarely com- 
 menced, and in many cases took their [)ortion to 
 be again subdivided amongst their friends. 
 
 One word from me, even a cloud on my brow. 
 
1 
 
 t. 
 
 mn ' 
 
 ]: ■:. 
 
 
 
 HI 
 
 1 
 
 1 " t 
 
 ■■■M \ 
 
 
 Vml ^ 
 
 ' ■ 
 
 
 m 
 
 374 
 
 AFFECTION FOR EACH OTHER. 
 
 [1H40. 
 
 (not unfrequent,) would scatter thcin, not to return 
 unless invited : and on one occasion some miscon- 
 c*e])tion entirely freed us from tlicni. 
 
 Fortunately, this occurred when our undivided 
 attention was required at the term days, and it is 
 not improbable that our devotion to our work was 
 mistaken for some superstition. 
 
 Both Kellett and myself had several attached to 
 our staff, and up ouv xci ••sion round the islanrlr 
 one was b..rne as [ijU.L Ic was highly interesting 
 to witness his /ec* r^luui ..t each village. Not a 
 word of welcome was spok .u. lie seated himself, 
 or was conducted to the place where he sat, and two 
 or three passed their arms or hands on cither side 
 round his waist, locking him in a silent embrace, in 
 which their faculties appeared to be entirely al)- 
 sorbed. As one fell away another replaced him, 
 and sometimes I lost his services for some time. 
 This caused a certain dejection in him for some hours. 
 
 With respect to eating, there is no difference in 
 the sexes. The women do not pound the nuts for 
 their husbands ; nor did the men " lord it over 
 them" in our })resence. On discussing this subject 
 with my friend Kellett, his reply was nearer the 
 fact : " Nonsense ! they are much too fond of their 
 women." 
 
 On the other hand, the men conduct the canoes, 
 fish, and when inshore, call the women to assist, 
 which is responded to with cheerfulness. They 
 go on expeditions to brhig in I'andanus fruit, autl 
 
1840. 
 
 1840.] 
 
 DRESS. 
 
 375 
 
 roturii 
 liscon- 
 
 livided 
 d it is 
 rk wfis 
 
 lied to 
 islaiirlr 
 (resting 
 Not a 
 iiimself, 
 ind two 
 icr side 
 race, in 
 •ely ab- 
 ad liiin, 
 le time, 
 le hours, 
 rence in 
 nuts for 
 it over 
 subject 
 arer the 
 of their 
 
 e canoes, 
 to assist, 
 ;. They 
 ruit, and 
 
 
 then it is tlie (hity of the women, on their return 
 from tiie beach, to carry up tlie stores and cook 
 them. We never knew of violence amon«?st tlieni, 
 (ither by word or decul, in eitlier sex, excepting 
 <Mi one occaf-lon, and then it was quite a burlcs(ine. 
 
 They do not a])])ear to have niy cliief amon«(st 
 liiem, but by common consent submit ])robably to 
 liie best and oldest present. Fre(iuently when I 
 attempted to obtuin an answer upon tins point, they 
 would reply Mikanery, (missionary,) or sometimes 
 you are " Ta])ana i)aumotu." 
 
 On one occasion at the " S. E. cocoa-nuts" an old 
 venerable man was introduced as "Tapana Paumotu," 
 but I was shortly after informed that his son was 
 the principal. 
 
 The objects used for barter were cotton, duck, 
 handkerchiefs, tobacco, old clothes, &c. ; other ob- 
 jects were considered merely as gifts. Men, women, 
 and children smoke. 
 
 The clothing is much the same as at the low 
 islands, only they appear to take more pains, and 
 are more })articular in the manufiicture of the maro, 
 worn by the males, and palvas of the womer, tha?i 
 I have before observed. 
 
 If constant ablution can keep them clean, these 
 should be so, for they are constantly in the water 
 in search of fish, and failing in the scaly tribe, make 
 up for it by the tridacna gigas, which is very abun- 
 dant. The men api)ear to suffer very severely from 
 the sun when thus employed ; the whole body be- 
 
 
370 
 
 METHOD OF FISHING. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 coming suddenly covered with Hcalos, which com- 
 pletely damps their animal spirits, and if wo had not 
 known the true cause, would have raised unplea- 
 sant surmises. 
 
 We noticed that at particular periods they would 
 labour freely ; but if asked to renew their exertions 
 on return from any special employment, they could 
 not be induced to do so voluntarily. I suspect, there- 
 fore, that some superstition is connected with their 
 separate extraordinary exertions. 
 
 They are very expert fishermen ; and with a 
 light net I constructed, would speedily capture any 
 large mullet which ventured within our bounds. 
 It became literally a water hunt, all sexes joining 
 with great excitement. By giving them any that 
 remained beyond our immediate consumption, they 
 kept constantly on the alert, and supplied our table 
 freely. 
 
 The general mode adapted by themselves is by 
 traps, formed by walls of stone on the flat inner reef. 
 These communicate with each other. The Canoes 
 literally drive the shoals of fish into these, when 
 a yell of delight brings the shore department to 
 their aid, and they are taken out, after being driven 
 into the inner chamber, by bag nets of their own 
 construction. To an observer the fish really appear 
 to be bewildered, either by noise or the number of 
 people, and never attempt to leap their walls, whicli 
 are not above six inches above water. 
 
 Their food consists of fish of various kinds, and 
 
1840. 
 
 1840.J 
 
 BURIAL. 
 
 377 
 
 [ com- 
 ad not 
 inplca- 
 
 wouUl 
 ertions 
 y could 
 , thcre- 
 li their 
 
 with a 
 arc any 
 bounds, 
 joining 
 ny that 
 ►n, they 
 ir table 
 
 s is by 
 ler reef. 
 Canoes 
 , when 
 lent to 
 driven 
 eir own 
 f appear 
 nber of 
 , which 
 
 ids, and 
 
 pandanus nuts. The tridacna gigas, before noticed, 
 they eat as we (U) oynters, l)iit it wan ri-marked, that 
 they previously underwent very particular cleansiii<r 
 and steeping in fresh water. It is strange, that 
 neither here, nor in any island of the Pacific tliat 
 I have visited, do they use the clear crystallised 
 salt which can be easily procured, but prefer a con- 
 centrated solution of salt water — at times very 
 turbid, and generally anything but i)leasant to the 
 senses. 
 
 I am afraid, although they have persons amongst 
 them denominated " missionaries," that their reli- 
 gious feelings partake little of Christianity; but 
 rather that the emissaries from Tahiti, entrusted M'ith 
 the collecvion of the tribute, assume this distinction 
 to suit their purpose. What this tribute may 
 amount to from Bow Island, (or Ocheow,) I am at a 
 loss to conjecture, as during this season they were 
 not seeking the pearl oyster, and the few pearls of- 
 fered for traffic were very insignificant. They con- 
 tinue their superstitious observances still, by offering 
 fish, parts of turtle, &c., tied up in small baskets 
 and attached to trees, and devote particular cocoa- 
 nut trees to the taboo. 
 
 Their mode of burial is European, and some 
 trouble is taken in covering the grave with fine 
 coral sand. From what we could collect, tliey Mere 
 generally healthy ; few deaths occur, and women at 
 thirty had five or six children. In the course of 
 an examination of the island, we calculated the 
 
 I 
 
 I'" 
 
 
 i i 
 
:i78 
 
 IHSKASKS. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 entire population at from two liiiiulrcd and fifty to 
 throe hnndred houIs. Oidy five canes of malforma- 
 tion, goitre, or elephantiasis, were noticed. They 
 appear to have few wants, are contented, and |»ro- 
 bably as happy as any as we shall meet. I sincerely 
 trust that wo may have? as ^^ood cause to recom- 
 mend those whom we may visit in our i>r(»;^res8, for 
 /jfood behaviour, freedom from intrusive habits, &c. 
 
 Previous to (putting the American continent, 1 
 was possessed of the generally received idea that 
 these islands were constructed on the summits of 
 submarine mountains, and i)robably of volcanic 
 origin. My mind, at that i»eriod, was closely en- 
 gaged in the al>sorbing duties of our employment, 
 which called for undivided energy and attention. 
 On quitting the coast, my attention became directed 
 to this particular subject, and the means of investi- 
 gating it ; and the anticipated result of course met 
 with some share of interest. IJut I fully arrived at 
 the conclusion, that corallines could not exist or 
 work beyond a certain depth, an<l that the result of 
 our boring would terminate in sand, or marine clay, 
 usually designated pii)eclay. It is well known that 
 these were my opinions, frequently canvassed, and 
 that I did not subscribe to the idea of " no bottom 
 after fifty fathoms," and fully intended io test this 
 question also. I could not conceive such abrupt 
 elevations. 
 
 As our exi)erinients proceeded, I felt still more 
 confirmed, and, although the outer soundings had 
 
1840. 
 
 1H4(K] 
 
 PKKI' SOUNDINGS. 
 
 370 
 
 fty to 
 
 onmi- 
 
 They 
 
 I i)ro- 
 iccrely 
 •ecoiii- 
 HS, for 
 
 &c. 
 u'\t, 1 
 a that 
 
 IlitH of 
 
 olcanic 
 cly 011- 
 yiiiL'iit, 
 ontion. 
 Jrectcd 
 luvosti- 
 3e mot 
 ivod at 
 xist or 
 L'sult of 
 e clay, 
 vn that 
 3(1, and 
 bottom 
 est this 
 abrupt 
 
 II more 
 igs had 
 
 been reported " eoriil rock," I was determiiied t(» 
 test tlie matter more severely, as ! know how 
 readily men take the report of the man in the bow 
 soundin^^ rather than satisfy themselves by arniiii<r 
 the lead. The coursi' of exiteriments, as far as a 
 thousand fathoms, was iutruste(l to my ener^fetic 
 friend Keliett, wlio F felt well satisfied would leave 
 no blanks unfilled. 
 
 The results were afti'r fifty fatlioms, the pro- 
 bable bountlary of the coral, entirely sand ; and coral 
 sand at depths, ran<^ing from fifty to nine hundred and 
 sixty. 
 
 This shows how very minutely such operations 
 shouhl be conducted. lla<l wo sailed without re- 
 course to this i>roof, the report would most certainly 
 have been erroneous, and on my head it would have 
 rested. 
 
 Referriuf^ to the structure of these islands, and of 
 this in particular, I certainly, as an actor in these 
 investigations, and as a general observer, cannot 
 subscribe to their uniformity of shape, or any other 
 speculative peculiarities. I cannot subscribe either 
 to the idea that the corallines build to suit their 
 convenience under any ])eculiar system, nor that 
 the openings in all the islands are to leeward. I 
 have named two which have them to windward ; 
 Matilda Reef is No. 3 ; and Bow Island has it rather 
 to windward than to leeward. 
 
 On the princip. ' * that the w eather si<le of these 
 
 1 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 { 
 
 ■A' 
 
380 
 
 CORAL FORMATIONS. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 . 
 
 islands would intc^rcept .n vds, plants, birds, Sec, we 
 nnist naturally cuncctlc that ve«^ctation would first 
 romnience there, and be better maintained. That the 
 portions to leeward, or to the S.W., are not gene- 
 rally so well studded with trees, ougnt rather to be 
 attributed to the S.W. rollers, whieh in light winds 
 roll heaviest and souietinies over all. lint I have 
 remarked that where .egetation has succeeded on 
 isolated portions of the southern side of Bow In- 
 land, and more particularly on the S.E. angle, there 
 it is found to be viorc hwuriant. 
 
 The gradation of the exterior as well as interior 
 shallow portions or belts of Bow Island, do not 
 present anything beyond the ordinary course to be 
 anticipated. The corallines naturally commence 
 their operations as near the surface as they can 
 find convenient material ; and it is rather a curious 
 fact that their first building is circular, and 
 seldom exceeds ten or twelve inch's in depth, 
 to a diameter of as many feet, (frequently excc^ed- 
 ing it,) and this is not subject to depth. The 
 inner coral belt does not mark an increase of 
 depth ; it is not the wall at which the sudden 
 de})ression takes place, as generally assumed. 
 Tills belt confines the coral sand, which is much 
 M'hiter, Mithin its bounds, and thus causes a 
 delusion ; but upon close examination we found the 
 shelving gradual to the ship. This dues not arise 
 from a fonnation, but I should rather say from the 
 
[1840. 
 
 1840.] 
 
 FAILURK OF GARDEN. 
 
 381 
 
 &c., we 
 lid first 
 .'hat the 
 •t gciie- 
 V to bo 
 t winds 
 I have 
 }ded oil 
 5ow Ih- 
 B, there 
 
 interior 
 do not 
 iQ to be 
 innience 
 liey can 
 curious 
 ir, and 
 
 depth, 
 exc(!ed- 
 ii. The 
 ease of 
 
 sucUleu 
 ssunied. 
 is much 
 luses a 
 ind the 
 lot arise 
 [•oni the 
 
 
 preference of the coraUincs for the depths from nine 
 to twelve feet. In ail tlie openings or boat cliannels 
 the shelving was but slight. 
 
 Althougii the interior i)arts of the lagoon, which 
 vary from twenty to thirty fathoms, may generally 
 be assumed as sandy b ttom, still there are frecpient 
 coral patches, which, although generally yielding, 
 occasionally retarded our o]>erations. 
 
 It is my firm conviction, and the same opinion 
 was entertained by others, that Bow Island (/c- 
 cremcs at most of its uncultivated portions. I say 
 uncultivated^ because great care is taken by the na- 
 tives to preserve and keep up a succession of cocoa- 
 nut trees ; and even those well grown are not hardy. 
 From my own experiments in raising plants, 
 I am satisfied that the soil of coral islands is not 
 favouKible to vegetation generally ; and the hosts of 
 rats which infest them form an insuj)erable bar to 
 rearing any of the smaller jjlants or fruits. 
 
 A garden was establislu'd, but failed, although we 
 had two dogs on the watch. However, we left the 
 pea of Socorro, sweet j)otat()es, peach stones, and 
 walnuts in the ground. The rats sutt'ereil the pota- 
 toes, Indian corn, and English peas to si)ring up 
 and attain several inches in height, which induced 
 us to hope they were safe, but one night they cut 
 them ott" close to the grouiul. 
 
 Previous to our arrivjdat How Islasid, T had men- 
 tioned to Kellett and others one 'ittle islet with a 
 sandy beach, when' I had deposited corallines (in 
 
382 
 
 ISLAND DECREASINTi. 
 
 [l«4i>. 
 
 1820) to l>lo{U'li, ))ofbrc I ran to the fsouthorn cocoa- 
 nuts, and had si'loctod it as a tost as to any increase 
 or docn.'ase in fourteen years. This islet does not 
 cvist now. No coral island now (»xists Avitliin the 
 la<^oon, althoufvh there are rocks scattered on the 
 reef patches, on which a l)ird nii<i:ht ])erch. 
 
 The w.itcr near the ol)servat()ry, ])recisely where 
 the blossom was, is deeper, our pinnace, <leeply 
 la<len, easily reachinn^ the bench. The oi)eninn^s be- 
 tween the patches of vep^etation on the north side are 
 c(nn])lete, and a lioht boat ini;»ht float to sea at liii>h- 
 water without difficulty. These channels arc dannned 
 for fishin«if purposes, and have <»t.nerally a fall in- 
 wards of one foot until low water. 
 
 On the southern side similar openinf^s were no- 
 ticed, but throusj^hout the whole external belt there 
 were no si<]^ns of livin<y active corallines. At the 
 southern station the rollers had thrown uj) immense 
 stratified dabs of com])act coral limestone, in which 
 shells and spines of echini were ]>rofiisely I'Uibedded. 
 This could not ])e a coralline formation, but rather 
 ]>ipeclay be<ls hardenin;>' under water. They were 
 very sonorous. Specimens were preserved. 
 
 The tides on the outer reef afford a i)roof that the 
 time of hi«>;h-water conforms to <reneral laws, and 
 tliat the time of hi<>h-water, full and chanoe, may be 
 assumed as two lumrs forty minutes ; rise two feet 
 nine inches. 
 
 The weather jlurin;; the last fourteen days of our 
 stay was very unsettled, I susj)ect by reason of the 
 
1840.] 
 
 FRKSTI WATER. 
 
 nso 
 
 termination of the S.W. monsoon. Very liofivy 
 rains and smart squalls incommoded us, hut did not 
 retard our lab<mrs : and although our work i n;j ] dir- 
 ties were much exposed, (])artieulurly those construct- 
 ing the pier, who almost lived in the water,) and 
 drank perhaps too fre«>Iy, notwithstandiufj my cau- 
 tion, of the beach water, we were unal)le to trace any 
 evil effects from it. 
 
 The extreme caution with wliich I have jjenerallv 
 watched the exposure of my crew was jiossihly a 
 little relaxed here ; but I am satisfied that had I 
 adopted more decisive measures to pri^vent the use 
 of the island water, aiid had restricted them to an 
 allowance which we could ill spare, illness (probal)ly 
 scurvy) would have ensued. Whenever cocoa-nuts 
 could be obtained they were given to them as well as 
 lime-juice, l^ut it was remarked that in no case 
 where recourse was had to the sur«;eon, was it attri- 
 l)uted to this visit ; and none of the cases were from 
 the working party; they were }»riucipally from those 
 confined to the shij). 
 
 In the Starling, several cases of severe rheumatic 
 fever occurred, but they were not employed on the 
 boring duty, Init chiefly on the survey. 
 
 At the termination of tlu^ quarterly observations, 
 our observatory and tents were end)arked, and the 
 ship moved near the entrance, in order to take ad- 
 vantage of the first opportunity to get oH! We were 
 c(mii)elled to wait from the 28nl until tiie iJSth of 
 March, before the wind allowed us to fetch out. 
 
 
 
if 
 
 n> 
 
 ' 
 
 384 
 
 LAGOON OPENINGS. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 This, I think, proves tho entrance nol on the iee 
 side. 
 
 At the period of the Blossom's visit, the wind and 
 current, on her entrance as well as exit, fiivoured 
 her ; but no sound conclusion or direction for 
 nav igjitors could he deduced therefrom. A Jair wind 
 out would be a, foul iveuthcr wind inside. In both 
 cases, on reference to Blossom and Sulphu:', the winds 
 at entrance and exit ranged from east to E. N. E., 
 or leading winds. 
 
 We found that the time of entry or exit depended 
 also on the time of high or slack water, and that it 
 was necessary to watch this at the entrance, as the 
 velocity of ebb, Mhen much water had been forced 
 into the lagoon, prevented the ship from steering. 
 With our chart before us, we knew to a nicety what 
 wind would suffice, and how far we could venture. 
 But it is at all times a difficult place to enter with 
 a vessel drawing over fifteen feet. It cannot be 
 entered against the eljb without a breeze which 
 would connnand six knots at least, as the current, 
 M'hicli has about one foot fall, runs above four 
 knots. 
 
 Ai>j)roaching from seaward, the state of the current 
 can generally be pretty fairly estimated by the " tail 
 race," which sweeps to sea al)out three quarters of a 
 mile. The instant tliis slackens or ceases, the entrance 
 may be ap})roached. The starboard side close to 
 the breaker line is tlic boldest, but a rock near the 
 inner point, having only nine feet on it, must be 
 
 
 h; i i' 
 
•^ 
 
 1840.] 
 
 QUIT now ISLAND. 
 
 385 
 
 avoided. Tlic two coooa-nut trees over the western 
 point clear of the l)iislieH notes it, as well as one on 
 the opposite side. These two rocks form tlie i^ateway 
 of the channel ; and as all the rocks ore plainh/ visible, 
 they are easily avoided. , 
 
 We now took our leave of Bow Island, sliaj>in,<>: h 
 course for Chain Island or Anaa, intending, if landing 
 was practicable, to fix its position. 
 
 On the morning of the 20th we saw tlie two 
 groups ; about eiglit, Melville Isknd ; in the even- 
 ing Bird Island ; on the morning of the 3(Hh Croker 
 Island; and at dawn on the 1st of April Chain 
 Island. About seven we had ap))roached almost 
 M'itliin hail, when we were visited by a canoe, from 
 which we took a native pilot, and passing close enough 
 for the native to hail his friends and desire them to 
 bring off ])igs, &c., for barter. W(^ rounded to and 
 obtained soundings, one hundred and seventy fathoms 
 saud, at half a mile from the shore. We afterwards 
 tried about one mile off with nine hundred and forty- 
 six, without gaining bottom. 
 
 All old native, who assumed some degree of autho- 
 rity, paid us a visit, and intimated that no pigs would 
 come off unless the boat was sent in for them, as 
 well as to exhibit what we had to traffic with. The 
 cutter was accordingly desj)atched, but not succeed- 
 ing, and finding the canoes had left me more visitors 
 than I wished, I determined to take them in-siiore 
 and try if I could succeed. On reaching the safi- 
 water, men, women, and (children swam off in grent 
 VOL. I. (• (; 
 
 I 
 
II 
 
 386 
 
 TRAFFIC AT CHAIN ISLAND. 
 
 [1840. 
 
 J , ■- w 
 
 H'W 
 
 numbers, and the only difficulty I experienced was 
 in preventing them from thrusting their pigs into 
 the boat. Indeed, I began to fear I had not where- 
 with to answer their demands. However, putting a 
 roll of duck into the hands of the chief, who delibe- 
 rately measured it, fourteen large hogs were awarded 
 for twenty-eight yards ; which was at the rate of one 
 shilling and eightpence per hog. It was not without 
 difficulty that we cleared the mob, whose heads im- 
 peded our oars. Some few shells were obtained, but 
 none of value, nor was even a middling pearl offered. 
 At four we bore away for Tahiti. 
 
 The natives of Chain Island are remarkably well 
 formed and well featured, although of a darker cast 
 than those of Marquesas, or Tahiti. The women are 
 more masculine, probably from frequent exercise and 
 exposure in the water, and probably less changed by 
 civilization or the introduction of European clothing. 
 Their hair is very beautiful, reaching in strong wavy 
 tresses to the middle, strongly reminding one of 
 mermaids. 
 
 Two very fine young women clung to our boat 
 for a considerable time. It was useless to desire the 
 crew to make them let go ; they were fascinated, 
 and I was really ashamed to treat them rudely. 
 They begged hard, as I understood, to take leave of 
 their brothers or relatives, to whom I had given a 
 passage, and were accordingly towed oif; but on 
 reaching the ship, then more than a mile from the 
 shore, they struck off for a canoe near us. Those 
 
:s^ 
 
 1840. 
 
 }d was 
 s into 
 where- 
 ;ting a 
 delibe- 
 warded 
 of one 
 vitliout 
 ids im- 
 led, but 
 offered. 
 
 1840.] 
 
 REACH TAHITI. 
 
 387 
 
 in tlie canoe reftised them admittance, and as we 
 sailed away they were seen gambolling like Nereids. 
 Hitherto we had experienced light winds, probably 
 owing to the vicinity of the islands ; but shortly after 
 quitting Chain Island the breeze freshened, and at 
 half past six on the morning of the 4th we dropped 
 anchor in Matavai Bay. I had forgotten that the 
 Tahitans were one day in advance of us, the mis- 
 sionaries having brought their time from the west- 
 ward ; we were therefore obliged to change our 
 Saturday for Sunday. 
 
 3ly well 
 ker cast 
 men are 
 pise and 
 iged by 
 ilothing. 
 ig wavy 
 one of 
 
 I 
 
 END OF VOL. 1. 
 
 ur boat 
 sire the 
 icinated, 
 
 rudely, 
 eave of 
 given a 
 
 but on 
 om the 
 Those 
 
 LONDON : 
 PRINTED BY G. J. PALMKR, SAVOY 8TRBKT, BTRAND. 
 
«/ 
 
 If*, i' 1 ■ 
 
 f-:'-' '■ 
 
 ■ 1' 
 
 w 
 
 m. 
 
% .1 ' 
 
 rf a 
 
 13, Great Marlborour/h Street, Veb. 1843. 
 
 MR. COLBURNS 
 NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
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 2 vols, post 8vo, with Portrr.it. Price 218. bound. 
 
 " The literary rcmams contained in these volumes are as fidl of merit and /aluc as any of 
 those publications wliich took place during Miss Laudon's lifetime ; moreover, they consist 
 of her latest and most careful compositions. All of these pieces, indeed, of every poetical 
 character and style, are worthy of the high place of their writer among the, poets of her 
 country. '—iVaua/ and Military Gazette. 
 
 COMIC MISCELLANIES 
 
 IN PROSE AND VERSE 
 
 By the late JAMES SMITH, Esq. 
 
 One of the Authors of " Rejected Addresses." 
 With a selection from his Correspondence, and Memoirs of his Life. 
 By liis Brother, HORACE SMITH, Esq. 
 Second edition, with additions, 2 vols, post 8vo, with portrait, 21s. bound. 
 
 m 
 
 H 
 
E WORLD 
 
 Y. 
 
 tions, by Landscer, 
 
 o our lot to notice, 
 entific navigation." 
 
 LNS. 
 
 '&c. 
 
 er in a familiar and 
 k upon Italy as she 
 
 J, £. L. 
 
 I Verse and Prose, 
 her Life. 
 
 md t^aluc as any of 
 •cover, they consist 
 d, of every poetical 
 ig the I poets of her 
 
 s 
 
 is Life. 
 
 Is. bound. 
 
 er famous Rejected 
 
 MR. C0LBUR>;'S NKW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 THE HISTORY OF WOMAN 
 
 IN ENGLAND, 
 
 AND HER INFLUENCE ON SOCIETY AND LITERATURE. 
 
 BY MISS LAWRANCE. 
 
 AUTHORESS OF " HISTORICAL MEMOIRS OF THE QUEENS OF ENGLAND FROM THE TWELFTH 
 
 TO THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY." 
 
 1 vol. small 8vo, with Illustrations, 10s. Gd. bound. 
 " Although tlie study of English history lias of late become so popular, the progress 
 of female society in England lias never received the attention which its importance 
 demands. Eittle has been told us of women in Saxon times; and yet, even then, ttiere 
 were ilhistiioiis queens, and female scliolars, whose exertions for the ditfiision of 
 knowledge demand the gratitude of their descendants — and scarcely more is known of 
 female society during the Norman period, and yet it was at the bidding of the lady, 
 that the poet-fathers of England hist sang. Even during the age of chivalry many 
 a lady, illustrious for her talents, and interesting from her romantic history, lias no 
 record, save in the seldom-opened pages of the monkish chronicler. Descending to 
 more recent times we find the liistory of woman in England linked with the Reformation 
 and each great event. To trace the progress of woman in England through these 
 various phases of her history is the object of the present work. Beginning at the 
 earliest period, it has been tlie chief aim of the writer to collect contemporary in- 
 formation from every available source, and thus the ohsolete code of laws, the ancient 
 popular tales, the will, the inventory, the legal record, the legend, and the satire, the 
 testimony of the grave chronicler, and that of the inanners-paiiiting irouvtre, the lotter 
 and the diary have all been laid under contribution to throw light upon a suhject as cu- 
 rious and interesting as it is important." 
 
 ME3I0IRS OF THE 
 
 LITERARY LADIES OF ENGLAND. 
 
 By MRS. ELWOOD. 
 
 2 vols, post 8vo, with Portraits. 21s. bound. 
 
 " A work of great merit. The first biography is that of Lady ISIary Wortlcy Montagu; 
 the last, that of Mrs. Maclean, better known as Miss Landon; n tlms conii)rises our blue- 
 stockings, from the commencement of the last century down to the present. Each biography 
 is marked by good taste and excellent judgment. The author is considered in eacli more 
 than the individual; and yet sufficient narrated of the latter to interest and instruct." — 
 John Bull. 
 
 " The literary ladies of England, who have written since the commencement of the last 
 century, form a brilliant list, many of the most beautiful and permanently Uscfid portions of 
 our literature beuig the productions of female pens. A collection of memoirs of those 
 eminent persons was much wanted, and Mrs. El wood's work supplies the desideratum. It 
 will furnish, especially to young readers of her own sex, much instructive matter in an inte- 
 resting form. Mrs. Elwood's chief qualifications as a biogriipb.er are industry, good sense, 
 and impartiality. She gives a fair and judicious simimary of the facts known of each indi- 
 vidual." - Chronicle. 
 
 " This work will become increasingly and deservedly popular, especially among the fair 
 sex — the most ardent readers, and probably the most accurate judg(!s, of light and elegant 
 literature. By furnishing them with authenticated memoirs of celebrated authors of their 
 own sex, who during the last and the present centuries have, by their devotion to literature, 
 tended so much to elevate and adorn the female character, Mrs. Elwood has conferred on 
 British ladies an obligation which, we cannot doubt, will lie duly estimated and commensu- 
 rately rewarded." — Globe. 
 
 
8 
 
 Mil. COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 l-'i 
 
 HISTORY OF OUR OWN TIMES. 
 
 By the Author of 
 "THE COURT AND TIMES OF FREDERICK THE GREAT." 
 
 Handsomely printed in small 8vo. 
 
 It may be affirmed, without fear of contradiction, that if we were to search through the 
 whole range of history, we should not find in any period of equal duration so many astound- 
 ing events as have crowded together in the compass of the last half -century, to which the 
 denomination of Our Times is here applied. 
 
 The history of those times will of course exhibit all the extraordinary scenes of the 
 French Revolution, with which this period opened; imd detail the events of the long series 
 of wars consequent on that revolution in all parts of the globe, till the downfaU of Napoleon 
 restored peace to the world. The eniancipaticm of the Spanish- American colonies ; the 
 deliverance of Greece from Turkisli thraldom; the daring but unfortunate insurrection of 
 the roles ; the transfer of the crown of France to a new branch of the house of Bourbon ; 
 the foundation of the kingdom of Belgium ; and the cruel civil wars in the two divisions of 
 the Spanish Peninsula, fonn more recent features in this great moving drama. It is scarcely 
 necessary to add that the means by which the power and prosperity of the British empire 
 have meanwhile been gradually extended and consolidated will claim the particular attention 
 of the historian. In short, it will be his aim to furnish, in a popular form, a faithful and 
 impartial record of every event of public importance which has taken place during the last 
 fifty years. 
 
 On the utility of such a history it were superfluous to insist. To the statesman, the le- 
 gislator, the scholar, the public writer, it must Ihj a book of every -day reference; to the 
 library of every well-informed person it will be absolutely indispensable: the young will turn 
 to it for instruction, the old to refresh their memory respecting scenes which they have wit- 
 nessed, or in which perchance they have even been actors. 
 
 HISTORY OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS 
 
 FROM 
 
 THE CONVENTION-PARLIAMENT OF 1688-9, 
 
 TO 
 
 THE PASSING OF THE REFORM BILL IN 183 2. 
 
 BV 
 
 WM. CHARLES TOWNSEND, ESQ., M.A. 
 
 RECORDER OF MACCLESFIELD. 
 
 In 8vo. 
 
 This work is intended to give a popular History of the Commons' House of Parliament, 
 and will comprehend the lives of the Si)eakers, of the Lawyers, Orators, and Statesmen, who 
 have been most distinguished in its annals; a review of the Privileges once enjoyed by 
 Members, and their hard-won right to personal and deliberate freedom; a record of the vin- 
 dictive powers exercised by the House over their own body and strangers; a narrative of 
 the internal economy of St. Stephen's Chapel; the changes in the habits, manners, and cha- 
 racter of the constituency — in the decorum and method of proceedings— in the tone and 
 temper of discussion , and in the progress of intelligence and refinement. It is proposed to 
 unlock the store of light reading, the fund of interest and amusement, which has been con- 
 cealed from the general gaze in the voluminous Journals, State Trials, Parliamentary De- 
 bates, Precedents of Hatsell, and contemporary memoirs and pamphlets. The first volume 
 includes the period from the abdication of James II. to the death of George I., characterized 
 by " Master Spirits," critical events, and stirring debate; a monument, however imperfect, 
 to the memory of those patriotic legislators who framed the Bill of Rights — conquered 
 France in her height of pride— established the Union with Scotland — secured the Protest- 
 ant taith by the Act of Settlement, and with tiic Septennial Act confirmed the mdependence 
 of the representatives of the people. 
 
 l!--!!- 
 
 Ml 
 
lES. 
 
 GREAT." 
 
 search through the 
 n so many astound- 
 ntury, to which the 
 
 inary scenes of the 
 3 of the long series 
 ownfallof Napoleon 
 •ican colonies ; the 
 nate insurrection of 
 house of Bourbon ; 
 the two divisions of 
 ania. It is scarcely 
 ' the British empire 
 particular attention 
 form, a faithful and 
 lace during the last 
 
 e statesman, the le- 
 ly reference; to the 
 the young will turn 
 hich they have wit- 
 
 OMMONS 
 
 1688-9, 
 
 uL IN 1832. 
 
 louse of Parliament, 
 and Statesmen, who 
 fcs once enjoyed by 
 a record of the vin- 
 igers; a narrative of 
 s, manners, and cha- 
 js— in the tone and 
 it. It is proposed to 
 which has been con- 
 Parliamentary De- 
 3. The first volume 
 Drge I., characterized 
 , however imperfect, 
 f Eights — conquered 
 -secured the Protest- 
 led the uidependence 
 
 MK. COLBUKN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 9 ' 
 
 UNDER TIIK 
 
 AUTHORITY OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE 
 
 ADMIRALTY. 
 
 IN 2 VOLS. SVO, WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 NARRATIVE 
 
 OF A 
 
 VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 FKRFOKMKO IN 
 
 HER MAJESTY^S SHIP "SULrilUR," 
 
 DURING THE YEARS 1836-1842. 
 
 BY 
 
 CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, C.B., 
 F.R.A.S., F.G.S., &c., 
 
 COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 Voyages of Discovery and Survey liave long been amongst the most pleasant 
 and instructive reading with which the press has furnished us since Raleigh and 
 Drake pursued their adventurovis career to the attractive shores of the New 
 ^Vorld, and Cook and Anson ventured on the formidable task, in tlieir days, of 
 circumnavigating the globe. But the great advances which have been made in 
 nautical science, and the increased facilities for acquiring exact and comprehen- 
 sive information which modern navigators possess, render their labours far more 
 valuable and often much more interesting than those of their predecessors. The 
 voyages of Her Majesty's Ship Sulphur cannot, therefore, fail of being regarded 
 with considerable interest by every class of readers, but particularly hy such as 
 are desirous of ascertaining from the best sources the progress the country is 
 making in geographical knowledge. To place the claim of this vessel and the 
 intelligent officers and crew under the author's command properly before the 
 public, it is. necessary that they should be put in possession of some slight idea 
 of her goings to and fro. 
 
 The Sulphur was commissioned in September, 1835, by Captain Beechey, and 
 accompanied by her consort, the Starling, Lieutenant- Commander Kellett, 
 quitted England in the following December. He invalided at Valparaiso, and 
 was succeeded by Acting Commander Kellett, who was again superseded by 
 the author who took the command at Panama, in February, 1837, having 
 crosssed the Isthmus of Darien for that purpose, and retained it till the con- 
 clusion of her protracted voyage. After some little delay in completing certain 
 necessary operations, the Sulphur proceeded northerly, touching at Realejo and 
 Libertad iu Central America, and reached San Bias in Jun», whence she sailed 
 for the Sandwich Islands, which she reached the following month. 
 
 Port-Etches, in King William's Sound, in 60° 30' N., was their next destination. 
 Point Riou and Port Mulgrave were chosen as base stations for determining the 
 position of Mount St. Ehas, and further settling the question of longitude between 
 Cook and Vancouver. The ship thei . proceeded to Sitka, or New Archangel, in 
 
 P 
 
 II 
 
 ..,»tm< 
 
y 
 
 ■ 
 
 1 'J 
 
 :j;i 
 
 10 
 
 MR. COLnURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 [VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.] 
 
 Norfolk Sound, where the officers received very courteous treatment fromCaptaui 
 KouprcauolV, the Russian governor. She next visited Friendly Cove, in Nootka 
 Sound, and thence sailed to San Francisco, when the exannnation of the River 
 Sacramento, 156 miles "rom her anchorage, occupied them in open hoats for 
 thirty-one days. Thence she successively visited Monterey, San Bias, Acapulco, 
 and Lihertad, on lier way to Realejo, where the author, for the recovery 
 of his health, undertook a land-survey of the principal mountains over-looking 
 his futiu'o ground in the Gulf of Papagayo, and fixed tlie ])rineipal features 
 of the Lake of 3Ianagua to its first fall into that of Nicaragua at Tepfitapa. After 
 surveying the C]i>df of Papagayo and Port Culebra, the Sulphur quitted Central 
 America, touched at, and fixed the Cocos, and reached Callao in June, 1838, for 
 the pur[)oso of refit, and the completion of stores and provisions. Having ex- 
 amined the coast between Cerro Azul and Callao (about sixty miles), she left 
 Callao in ^Vugust, calling at Paita and Guayaquil, and returned to Panama in 
 the fijUowing' October. 
 
 J lere may be said to have ended her first cruize ; but between October and 
 March a survey was made of the Gulfs of Fonseca and Nicoya, Pueblo Nueva, 
 and Baia Honda, after which the ship moved northerly, repeating her cruize of 
 1837. She was detained at the Columbia River till September ; Bodega, the Russian 
 position near San Frr .cisco, was then surveyed, and subsequently San Francisco, 
 Monterey, Santa Barbara, San Pedro, San Juan, San Diego, San Quentin, San 
 Biirtolonie, the Gulf of Magdalena, and Cape San Lucas. The Sulphur then 
 proceeded to San Bias and Mazatlan, where orders for a westerly return awaited 
 her. Having shipped supplies for fourteen months from a transport which liad 
 been sent to meet her, she commenced her homeward voyage in January, 1840 ; 
 the author landed on the islands of Socorro and Clarion, and secured their 
 positions. She reached the Marquesas the lame month, and after a short visit to 
 Port Anna Maria, Nuhuhiva, moved on to Bow Island, where the operation was 
 performed of boring for the volcanic foundation on which these coral islands are 
 suspected to stand. She then visited Tahiti, Huaheine, Raratonga, Vavao (Tonga 
 Group), Nukulau (Feejees), Tanna (New Hebrides), Port Carteret (New Ire- 
 land), Britannia Island, New Guinea, coasting that island to Arimoa and as far as 
 Jobie, where she remained to rate and survey, then to Amsterdam. Pigeon Island 
 (Dampier's Straits), Bouro, and Amboina, moving thence to Macassar, Great So- 
 lombo, and Pulo Kumpal, off the Borneo coast, and reached Sincapore in October 
 of the same } ear. 
 
 Orders here awaited her to proceed instantly to China, where she was de- 
 tained, and took an active part in the warlike operations against the Chinese, till 
 nearly the close of the year 1841, when she sailed for England. After leaving 
 Sincapore, touc^hing at Malacca, Penang, Achen, (Sumatra,) Point de Galle 
 (Ceylon), Seychelles, Madagascar, Cape of Good Hope, St. Helena, and Ascen- 
 sion, she at last returned to Spithead. 
 
 It will readily be acknowledged, from a perusal of tlie foregoing statement, 
 that such an inuneuse field of observation has seldom been presented to the reader ; 
 and for so large a portion of it — Central America — it can scarcely be equalled in 
 attraction. 
 
iient from Captain 
 ■ Cove, ill Nootka 
 ition of the River 
 in open })oats for 
 ,n Bias, Acapiilco, 
 
 for the recovery 
 aind over-looking 
 ])rincipal featnrcs 
 
 Tcpfitapa. After 
 ur quitted Central 
 n June, 1838, for 
 ons. Having' cx- 
 :y miles), she left 
 led to Panama in 
 
 veen Octohor and 
 a, Pueblo Nueva, 
 iting her cruize of 
 odega, the Russian 
 tly San Francisco, 
 San Quentin, San 
 The Sulphur then 
 rly return awaited 
 insport which had 
 n January, 1840 ; 
 and secured their 
 ter a short visit to 
 the operation was 
 e coral islands arc 
 ga, Vavao (Tonga 
 irteret (New Ire- 
 imoa and as far as 
 , Pigeon Island 
 acassar, Great So- 
 capore in October 
 
 lere she was de- 
 
 the Chinese, till 
 
 d. After leaving 
 
 ) Point de Galle 
 
 en a, and Asceu- 
 
 egoing statement, 
 ited to the reader ; 
 ely be equalled in 
 
 MR, C'OLIUIHN'S NFAV PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 11 
 
 NEW COMMENTED EDITION 
 
 OF THE 
 
 AUTHORIZED VERSION OF THE HOLY SCRIPTURES. 
 
 DKDICATED TO 
 
 TIIKIR GRACES TIIR ARCHniSIIOPS OF CANTEUBURY AND ARMAGH. 
 
 Now in c'oiirso of I'ubliciition, liaiulsumely printed in royal 8vo., to be completed in about 
 Twenty Monthly I'aiits, price 2,v. 6r/. encli, -the First of whicli is now ready. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 THE OLD AND NEW TESTAMENTS; 
 
 ACCOMrANIED THROUGHOUT WITH A BRIEF 
 
 HEBMENEUTIC AND EXEOETICAL COMMENTARY AND REVISED VERSION. 
 
 BY THE REV T J HUSSEY, D D- 
 
 RECTOR OF HAYES, KENT. 
 
 Sufficient grounds for offering to the Public at the present time this new edition of 
 the Holy Scriptures will be found, it is ])oped, in the work itself, when compared with 
 the religious wants of the community. 
 
 The paramount sanction of the Clnirch impressed upon that most noble monument 
 of human learning and piety, the authorized version of the Bible, precludes the use of 
 any other translation as tlie basis of Commentary, even could any other be found which 
 might justly compete with it. The first two columns, therefore, of this edition will pre- 
 sent a correct reprint of King .James's Bible, from one of the standard editions which has 
 recently appeared. In the fourth column, corresponding to the first, the chronology of 
 Dr. Hales, far preferable to that of Usher, will l)e introduced, with such various readings 
 and renderings, as, witliout perhaps having actual claims to authenticity, arc entitled to 
 respect. The third column will contain the authorized version carefully revised, embo- 
 dying in italic characters a brief hcrmeneutic and exegetical Commentary with a Para- 
 phrase, to no greater extent, however, than is absolutely necessary to elucidate the text. 
 
 When a carefully revised version is spoken of, the Editor begs distinctly to state, that 
 in no case whatever will he depart from the authorized translation merely to gratify 
 fastidious criticism in matters of secondary importance (the occasional substitution of 
 the readings in the margin for tliose in the text cannot be so considered), and never, 
 except when more recent investigations have proved the inadequacy of the rendering, 
 and where corruptions existing in the Hebrew text from which the translation was 
 made, but detected bj later researches, make such a departure indispensable, in order 
 to reconcile contradictions, or to rectify manifest errors. Additions from the Samaritan 
 Pentateuch, from the Septuagint, or from any other version, will appear in a smaller 
 Roman character. A parade of authorities, even were it possible to assign them cor- 
 rectly, which is rarely the case, will be carefully avoided : for the scholar they are unne- 
 cessary, and for the general reader superfluous. 
 
12 
 
 MR. COLBURN'S NKVV rUHLICATIONS. 
 
 THE DLVRY AND LEHERS OF MADAME D'ARBLAY, 
 
 Athorcss of " Eveliim," " Ccciliiv," &f. 
 
 Indmling the period of lier Hcsidcnce at the Court of Queen Charlotte. 
 
 i:i)ITLD BY II EH NIECK. 
 
 %* New and revised editions of tlio first Five Vohmips nru now ready. Tlie Sixtli 
 Volume will l)e ready in u few diiys. 
 
 " ^fadanie I)'Arl)l«y lived to l)C a elassie. Time set on iier fume before s'u- went lunee 
 that seal whieh is seldom set except on the fame of the dejiarted. All tliose whom we have 
 iK-en aeeustomed to revere as intelUctnal patriarehs seemed ehildren wlien eonipared with 
 her; for IJurke had sat up all ni(,'ht to read her writings, and Johnson hud i)ron<amced her 
 superior to Fielding, when Rogers was still a sehoolhoy, and Sonthey still in intticoats. Her 
 Diary is written in lier earliest and best manner; in true woman's English, dear, natural, 
 and lively. It ought to be eonsulted by every jwrson who wishes to be will aiMiuainted with 
 the history of our literature and our manners. The aecount which she gives of the king's 
 illness will, we think, be more valued by the liistorians of a future .age than any e(iual por- 
 tions of I'epys' or Evelyn's IJiaries." — Edinbunjk Review, January, 1843. 
 
 "This publication will take its place in the libraries beside "Widpolc and Boswell." — 
 Literary Gazette, 
 
 " In oiu' minds, this delightful Diary has l)een the most agreeable variety of the season. 
 Miss Burney's first volume ought to be placed beside IJoswell's ' Life,' to wiiich it forms an j 
 excellent supplement." — Times, 
 
 *' A work unequalled in literary and social value by any thing else of a similar kind in the 
 language." — Naval and Military Gazette. 
 
 " This is the most charming book that has appeared for a long while. We cannot speak 
 too much in praise of this delightful work, whicl! every one must read." — Courier, y 
 
 "This work may Ix; considered a kind of supplement to Boswell's Life of Johnson. It is 
 a beautiful picture of society as it existed in manners, taste, and literature, in the early jie- 
 riod of the reign of George III., drawn by a pencil as vivid and brilliant at that of any of 
 the celebrated persons who composed the circle." — Messewjer, 
 
 " A publication of much interest and value." — Chronicle. 
 
 " Miss Burney's Diary, sparkling with wit, teeming with lively anecdote and delectable 
 gossip, and full of sound and discreet views of persons and things, will be perused witli in- 
 terest by idl classes of readers." — Post. 
 
 " This work presents an unrivalled combimition of attraction. That extraorilinary man, 
 Johnson, is painted far better than he is by Boswell." — Court Journal. 
 
 " We know not wli^n we have been so delighted with a book as with Miss Burney's Diary. 
 Every page teems with interest." — Weekly Chronicle. 
 
 "The most popular and successful publication that has apiwared for many years." — 
 Dispatch. 
 
 " These Memoirs arc extremely entertaining, full of novelty, aninuition, anecdote, and 
 character. In these respects there are no memoirs, in our language, that can be compared 
 to them; nor do we know any book that will, from its intrinsic interest, be more universally 
 read and enjoyed, or be more often referred to, for its vivid pictures of, ])erhaps, the most 
 important period in our history. The whole tbrnis by fiir the most complete and lively re- 
 presentation of the Court of George HI. that has ever been given to the world." — Britannia. 
 
 'i 
 
 ,1 -1, 
 
D'AUBLAY, 
 
 u Clmrlottc. 
 
 ciuly. Tlic Sixtli 
 
 I)ef()ro s'lc went lunci' 
 1 tliosi' wlioiii wv liiivc 
 M'lii'u compiirud witli 
 n Imd i)r(iiumiu'wl lier 
 itill ill i)i'ttic()iits. lIcT 
 lii^Hisli, cluiir, natural, 
 .' will ac<iiiiiiuti'(l with 
 he ^ives <if the kinf?'s 
 c tliiiii any ciimil por- 
 143. 
 
 Jpole and Hoswell." — 
 
 variety of the season. 
 ' to which it I'ornis an 
 
 f a similar kind in the 
 
 Ic. We cannot speak 
 " — Courier, y 
 
 life of Johnson. It is 
 at'ive, in the early jx;- 
 iant at that of any of 
 
 K'cdote and delect ahlc 
 ill be perused witli iu- 
 
 at extraordinary man, 
 
 I Miss Burney's Diary. 
 
 I for many years." — 
 
 niation, anecdote, and 
 that can be compared 
 t, be more universally 
 of, ]icrluips, the most 
 omplete and lively re- 
 le world." — lirilunnia. 
 
 MR. COLIJUILN's NKW PUllLICATIONS. 
 
 i:j 
 
 LIVES OF THE PRINCES OF AVALES, 
 
 HEIRS TO THE THIIONE OF ENGLAND; 
 FHOM THE MOST AUTIIKN'TIC SOUIICES BOTH DilNTED AND MS. 
 BY FOLKESTONE WILLIAMS, ESQ. 
 
 Author of " SlIAKSPEAIlR AND HIS FrIENDS," &C. 
 
 WITH rORTUAITS AND OTHKft ILLUSTHATIONS, FROM DKAWINGS BY J. P. 
 
 IIAUDINU, £SQ., F.8.A. 
 
 In sniull $vu. 
 
 Hitherto no attempt has been made to place before the public histories of those princes 
 of the (liflTerent dyniusties that have possessed the sovereignty of England, who stood next in 
 succession to the crown, and bore the time-honoured title of Prince of Wales. It is true that 
 some of these distinguished personages succeeded to the throne, and have, as kings, attracted 
 the attention of historians: these writers, however, cannot, whilst tracing the course of 
 events, find time to touch, except very slightly, upon the most pleasing portion of regal bio- 
 f^'aphy. The minor details, exhibiting the early development of character, are left for the 
 antiquary who has industry to search for them among the MS. labours of our most pains- 
 taking chroniclers. Several of these documents 'u*ve from time to time been brought from 
 their obscurity and carefully pvinteil ; but still there is a large mass of historical material m 
 the different pul>lic and private libraries iu this kingdom, unknown to the general reiuler, 
 that would assist in completing a series of portraits, wiiicli independently of the extraordi- 
 nary interest that peculiarly behjngs to them, possess other national recommendations in 
 being inseparaljly comiccted with such glorious achievements, romantic adventures, and 
 picturesque incidents, as are to Ix; found in no other part of our annals. 
 
 The life of Edwaiu) trk Black ruixcE opens to us the brightest chap'cr in the chivalry 
 of England, which is continued with almost equal attraction in the no less adventurous career 
 of IIenky of Monmouth ; — tragedies more touching than the best representations of the 
 stage, may be seen in the histories of Edward of Caernarvon, Richard of Bordeaux, and 
 the ill-fated princes of the liouses of York and Lancaster ; — the adventures of the Stuart 
 princes, throw the inventions of the imagination into the shade; and those of the House of 
 Brunswick, if less marvellous, convey equally characteristic pictures of the times to which 
 they belong. There are other members of this noble gallery, who, having won the love of 
 all classes of the community by their superior virtues and intelligence, were in early man- 
 hood snatched away by death from the throne for which they seem so admirably qualified. 
 Of their histories, so little is generally known that their names have almost l)ecn forgotten; 
 nevertheless. Prince Arthur, eldest son of Henry VII., Prince Henry, eldest son of 
 James I., and Prince Frederic, father of George III., have left materials for biography, 
 which cannot fail of being read with the deepest interest. It is therefore confidently ex- 
 pected that " The Lives of the Princes or Wali^s," will prove one of the most entertain- 
 ing, 0.3 it nmst be one of the most truly natiojinl works ever published; and no effort will be 
 spared to make it as acceptable to the historical scholar, as to the general reader. 
 
 The first volume, containing an Introduction, and the Lives of Edward of Caernarvon, 
 afterw.ards King Edward II., Edward of Windsor, afterwards King Edward III.; and Ed- 
 AVARD OF Woodstock, commonly called the Black Prince, will be published immediately. 
 
14 
 
 Mil. COLBUUN'S new PUULICATIONS. 
 
 THE POOR-LAW SYSTEM. 
 
 Now incoiiise of publication in Twelve Monthly Shilling Purts, with Ilhistrnlions by 
 
 Leech, 
 
 PARTS I. and II. are now ready. 
 
 JESSIE PHILLIPS; 
 
 A TALE OF THE POOR-LAW. 
 BY MRS. TROLLOPE, 
 
 AlTTHOnEHS OF 
 
 "MICHAEL ARMSTKONG, THE FACTORY-BOY." 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PHESS. 
 
 " We hail with much gratification the first number of this work, and are confident 
 that the clever authoress of 'Michael Armstrong' will not fail in ablv delineating the 
 enormities of the New Poor Law. The pleasing form in whicli this work appears, is 
 such as we have no doubt will ensure its complete success, and carry along with it the 
 feelings and utfections of her readers." — Exeter (razcttv. 
 
 " The Times has long been thundering away against the New Poor Law ; and the 
 indefatigable Mrs.Trollope has now opened a fire against tiiesame measure, the evils of 
 which she has determined to exhibit in a tale, to be published in twelve monthly parts. 
 Mrs. Trollope, on this occasion has invested her subject with all the interest of a ro- 
 mance." — Uubltii Evening Post. 
 
 " This commencing number is of good augury. The chief denizens of a country 
 village in one of those favoured districts in which factories arc unknown, are intro- 
 duced to the reader in a humorous, off-hand vein that takes at once. Nor is there a 
 lack of the pathos with which * A Tale of the New Poor Law* ought to be enforced. 
 We cordially commend the fortunes of Jessie Phillips to the reader.'' — John Bull. 
 
 " In this first part of Mrs. Trollope's new story, the leading families of tlie village of 
 Decpbrook are very graphically described ; the examination of a poor widow before 
 the Board of Guardians is given with a great degree of vividness and force that can 
 liave been derived only from tlie life. Every thing promises well for a powerful and 
 sustained interest. To the author we cordially exclaim, ' God speed you in the right- 
 eous cause.' " — Court Journal. 
 
 " Mrs. Trollope has again wielded her vigorous pen in defence of the helpless and 
 the afflicted ; her ' Factory Boy' laid bare the cruelties practised in factories ; she is now 
 with the same laudable spirit, exercising her gigantic talents in the same holy cause, the 
 object of the present publication being to lay before the world the hardships inflicted 
 by the New Poor Law. Independent, however, of the main object in view, the work 
 promises to be one of a general interest, and will, if we may judge from the first part, 
 prove most entertaining to others besides those more immediately interested in the 
 subject." — Bath Herald. 
 
 ii' tm 
 
s. 
 
 EM. 
 
 with Ulnatrnlions by 
 
 -LAW. 
 
 iRY-BOY." 
 
 rk, and are confident 
 ti ablv delinenting che 
 this wori< appears, is 
 !arry along with it the 
 
 Poor Law ; and the 
 
 measure, the evils of 
 
 twelve monthly parts. 
 
 the interest of a ro- 
 
 enizens of a country 
 unknown, are intro- 
 jnce. Nor is there a 
 us;lit to be enforced, 
 er.'' — John Hull. 
 
 lilies of tlie village of 
 poor widow before 
 
 s and force that can 
 for a powerful and 
 
 ecd you in the right- 
 
 of the helpless and 
 
 factories ; she is now 
 
 same holy cause, the 
 
 \p. hardships inflicted 
 
 ct in view, the work 
 
 from the first part, 
 ly interested in the 
 
 Mil. COLUIJRN'S NEW I'UHLICATIONS. 
 
 steaFvoyTges 
 
 OM 
 
 THE MOSELLE, THE ELBE, 
 
 15 
 
 AND 
 
 THE LAKES OF ITALY. 
 
 TOOETMEK WITH NOTICES OF 
 
 THURINGIA, AND SAXON SWITZEULAND. 
 
 BY MICHAEL J. QUIN, ESQ., 
 
 AUTIIOU OP "A STEAM VOYAGK DOWN TILE DANUBE." 
 
 2 vols. BtuuU 8vo. 
 
 It was Mb. Quin's good fortuuo to open to his fellow-couiitiynion, and, 
 indeed, to foreign tourists in general, the grand and pecidiar attnictioiis wliich 
 The Danube had in store for tlieir adniiration. His " Steuni Voyage" down 
 that river has been diffused all over the continent, not only in the English, 
 but also in tlio French and German lungimges ; and ban induced gn'ut num- 
 bers of persons to visit sceneswhich had been previously almost unknown to them. 
 
 In this author's new work, he discloses to us the beauties of the river ^Iohkij.k, 
 which although familiar as to its name on account of the e.Mpiisite vines jno- 
 duccd upon its banks, has liitlierto lain as much concealed from liritish tourists 
 especially, as the Danube itself had been, previously to his exposition of its 
 wonders. And the reasons are obvious. In the first place it is entirely out of 
 the highway (the Rhine) of tlie vast nuijority of our summer emigrants, wliose 
 object it generally is, to visit the Batlis of Germany, or to proceed by Switzer- 
 land into Italy. Although actually i)assing by the mouth of the Moselle, they 
 never deviate into that river, whicli would cause delay, and must be visited 
 entirely for its own sake. Moreover, until very lately there were no steam- 
 vessels oil the Moselle, and the only mode of making a voyage upon it was 
 by means of the common passage-boats of the country, small, inconvenient, 
 wretchedly managed, and by no means free from danger in windy Aveather, 
 nor were the inns on either bank at all calculated to invite the stranger. 
 
 But the steamer has effectually redressed these evils. The voyage from Cob- 
 lentz to Treves may be easily made in one day. It may be assi-rted without 
 fear of contradiction, that the beauty of the sceneuy on the hanks of Tin; 
 iMosELLE is without rivahy in Europe. The visiter who chooses to linger on 
 those banks, and to penetrate into the country beyond them, will find ample and 
 delightful occupation for weeks — amidst its innumerable sylvan and most ro- 
 mantic mountain charms. Ausonius, one of the later Latin poets has written an 
 excellent poem in praise of Tut; Moseli.k ; it has figured much in several of 
 the ancient, and most of the modern wars ; its scenes of delicious repose invited 
 many religious orders hi the primevsil ages of Christianity to erect eluirehes and 
 monasteries upon the hills that crown its banks ; — the same attractions induced 
 great numbers of the Crusaders upon their return from Palestine to fix their 
 chateaus near those holy places — so much so, that eight or ten leagues of the 
 margins of this river have for ages preserved the title of the " Vai.k of Ciii- 
 VALUY ;" nor is there any country where the memory of Baechus is more 
 honoured than on the banks of The Moselle. — Besides his minute descri])tions 
 of the Moselle, Mr. Quin presents us with an amusing excursion up/riiE Seine, 
 and sketclies off in a few pages the principal beauties of The Rhine and The 
 Neckar. Altogether his work will be found to be the production of no common 
 traveller, and full of novelty, even in these days of perpetual locomotion. 
 
It 
 
 i^iii 
 
 l^ii 
 
 i 
 
 il 
 
 
 "ii*::: 
 
 IP 
 
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 &c. 3 vols. 
 
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 xni. 
 
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 3 vols. 
 
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 Edited by the Author of "Brambletye 
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 4/. I6s., or any one work separately for 6s. 
 
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 first, second, and^hird series, containing ten stories— Sir E. L. Bulwer's Pelham, Disowned, 
 and Devereux— Captain Marryat's Frank Mildmay — Mr. James's Richelieu — Mr. Horace 
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 xit. 
 
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 " 3 vols. 
 
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 )L FOR WIVES. 
 
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 BOLEYN: 
 
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