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Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required The fallowing diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s 6 des taux de r6duction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd 6 partir de I'angle supdrieur gauche, de gauche 6 droite, et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. by errata ned to lent une pelure, fapon d 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 -„ifc*ha^j:^^Aa.t..'i.^ _L Fellow Travellers ,1 'St: i -i < y if -J < Fellow Travellers A Personally Conducted JounNEr IN Three Continents, with Impres- sions OF Men, Thinos and F-vents BY / Rev. Francis E. Clark, D.D. President of the World's Christian Endeavor Union New York CiqpAGO Toronto Fleming H. ^vdl Company M DCCC XCVIII N- ■n*'W"tawiwiiaj ^' . . ^■-'■" ■lawiiifiattiwai tV; I* "s-:: U! Fellow Travellers A Personally Conducted Journey IN Three Continents, with Impres- sions OF Men, Things and Events BY J Rev. Francis E. Clark, D.D. President of the World's Christian Endeavor Union H New York Oiy:AGo Toronto Fleming H. Qj^v-^U Cdmpany M DCCC XCVIII d t>:r/2 Copyright, 1898 BY Flbhimo H. Rbtkll Compamv ' TWO COPIES RECEIVED. 2ntJ C^^. 1390. r 'TTk*^?7'^^3^7^iT>*^^^ To My Dear Friends and Co-workers JOHN WILLIS BAER WILLIAM SHAW AMD AMOS R. WELLS WHOSE FAITHFULNESS, EARNESTNESS AND WISDOM IN CHRISTIAN ENDEAVOR AT HOME, MADE POSSIBLE MY JOURNEY FOR CHRISTIAN ENDEAVOR IN LANDS AR, THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED. Kcstsssasaaa Contents OHAFTXa I. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. XI. XII. XIII. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. XX. XXI. PAGB By Way of Intboduction 9 Thk Battle of thk Clouds 13 conl'sbning mobal mountain -climbing 20 Thk Land of William Tkll .... 24 A LBSSON FBOM THE JUNQFBAU .... 30 Chbibtian Endeavob in Switzebland , 34 Good News Concebnino Kbistna En- deavoubfobeninoabnab 38 CONCEBMNQ MUCH WaNDKBINQ IN MANY Lands 42 Fbedebick Bbot^ebton Meyeb ... 46 The Ploughman Poet— 1796-1896 ... 53 Thbee Thousand 2fiLES in Gebmany . 60 Two Famous Gehmans in the Class- boom ^ Some Things in Gebmany Worth Copy- ing 73 Naples by Night 78 The Oldest and the Youngest; ob, Chbistian Endeavob in the Land of THE Pybamids 85 A Univbbsity Whbbe "The Sun Do Move" 88 Concebnino Many Things on Sea and Shobb 96 A PLAGUB-STBICkBN CiTY 100 Concbbning a Delightful Expebience 115 A QuEEB Hospital 120 Hebe and Tubbb in India 127 Chbistian Endeavob in Histobio India 132 6 IL_ 6 Contents CHAPTRB p^g. XXII. A Chbistian Endbatob Mkkting in THE Taj Mahal 137 XXIII. Chbistiak Endeavob on thk Oanqbs 144 XXIV. An Houb on the Ganges .... 148 XXV. The Famine at Shobt Banoe . . 154 XXVI. BOCKED ON THE BOSOU OF THE GANQES 161 XXVII. A M18810NAEY Mecca lee XXVIII. CONCKBNINa A UNIQUE AND MEHOBA- BLE Convention 171 XXIX. The Bono of the Mubdebeb of Thibty 179 XXX. A Long Fobwabd Step 185 XXXI. In the Southebn Ehpibe .... 189 XXXII. SWAMI ViVEKANANDA UPON HiS NA- TIVE Heath 194 .XXXIII. OuB Sixty Days in India .... 199 XXXIV. A Sky Pilot on a Coolie Ship . . 205 XXXV. Twenty-three Days at Sea and Some Beflbctions ...... 212 XXXVI. Afbica at Last 217 XXXVII. The Afbican at Home 229 XXXVIII. The Two Bepublics of the South- ebn Cross «J29 XXXIX, A Call on "Oom Paul" .... 244 XL. In the Obangb Fbke State ... 251 XLI. How Bishop Taylor Bead the Bible 256 XLII. The World's Great Diamond Vault 261 XLIII. Unto the Thibo and Foubth Gen- EBATION 272 XLIV. Last Days in South Afbica ... 284 ...,.M*-.<-..»iF;»«i^.:",.^i|,i^ List of Illustrations The Taj Mahal Frontisfieee On the Riffelberg A Sheikh of the Desert . . . . A Burning Ghat Marble Screen in Palace in Delhi. Some of Dr. Clark's Snap-shots . . A Scene in India An African Kraal Facing page 1 6 86 *" 132 i-^ 163 ^ Runaway Kraal Girls in a Mission School 190 93a 353 ^ • iT ir nmi nr i iMn^i ' • '" ■' — ^ i- v v& \yt By Way of Introduction 1 1 Chrittian Endeavor World, in which many of these chapters originally appeared, the North American Review, the American Review of Re- viewt, Lippincott's Magazine, the Temple Maga- zine of London, the New York Independent, the Sunday School Times, the Congregational- t$t, and Christian Work, for permission to use in book form articles which were' printed in their pages. -"TWTTIt l M ril JI i m ' r*''*'**— *"•'"*'"•"**""'■""''" ' ""^ i.v..f„ri-iu-r.-ii«.-a - .^ MM wsmn Fellow Travellers THE BATTLE OF THE OIOUDS Mt first chapter shall not describe the oft- related journey across the seas, the embarka- tion or the landing of the voyagers bound on this new pilgrimage, neither wilt it describe certain Christian Endeavor meetings and greet- ings in Paris and elsewhere that occupied the beginning of the journey ; but it will take my readers directly to the heart of Switzerland, where we will enjoy a bit of Alpine scenery and a breath of vacation ozone, before under- taking the more serious purposes and duties that await us furthe;; on. One of our memorable experiences was on the Rififelberg in a tempest. Let me attempt to describe it. Who has not laughed over Mark Twain's exceedingly funny take-off of the dilettante Swiss tourists who climb the Alps (all that can be climbed by the funicular and rack-and- pinion railways) with tall silk hats, dress suits, and Saratoga trunks ? 18 asaiss!^-^>:*w»!tiiagfciiir-iiitiww<» ^ I ( ! I »4 Fellow Travellers You remember he started up the Riffelberg, resolved to do or die, with a huge retinue, in which were sixteen barkeepers, two Latinists, and one chaplain, if I remember correctly. The expedition got lost, and a long rope was tied to one of the guides, who was sent off to find the path. But he got tired of his job, hitched the rope to a ram, and went back to Zermatt. Various other adventures befell this expedition, all told in Mark's inimitable way. But the Riffelberg lias been able to stand all this ridicule. It does not hide its undimin- ished head, except occasionally behind a bank of clouds ; and every year it attracts increasing crowds of tourists ^wo-thirds of whom, at least, I suppose, chuckle in half a dozen different lan- guages (if it is possible to chuckle in different languages) over the humorist's chaff, as they go puffing up the pine-clad hill, on which it would be about as easy to get lost as for a farmer's boy to lose himself in going from the back door to the old well-sweep behind the barn. One day in the holiday season, three Ameri- cans might have been seen about eight o'clock in the morning, starting out from Zermatt, with stout alpenstocks and their inevitable Baedeker. They had been anxiously scanning the clouds and studying the mercury, and, though both insisted on going down, the one over the high- est mountain peaks, and the other below " Vari- !\ ~*aSfeAaa;.'M-it*..»iwi'»4;-|..,^.^, iiiiu *^«***«««!*«y*^?WW»**-«-* -■ The Battle of the Clouds »5 Riffelberg, retinue, in Latiiiists, rectly. g rope was sent off to af his job, it back to befell this ible way. o stand all i undimin- Ind a bank increasing ni, at least, GFerent lan- n different as they go h it would a farmer's back door fi. ree Ameri- jht o'clock 'matt, with Baedeker, the clouds ough both r the high- low " Vari- able " in the barometer tube, they determined to start. The Matterhorn, to be sure, persistently kept on his cap of clouds; most impolitely, consider- ing tlie many tourists that hud come to do him reverence that day. Monte Rosa was tipped with a cloud fleck, too, or rather, wore around her neck a gauzy scarf, such us, I believe, ladies used very appropriately to cull a "cloud," while her silvery head peered out above, radiant in the sunlight. This was discouraging, but the Breithorn shone resplendent without a cloud on her vast white bosom ; the Weisshorn, too, was visible from head to heels ; Castor and Pol- lux, like two gigantic good-natured twins (each rising to an altitude of about thirteen thousand feet), beckoned us on; mighty Lysskamm prom- ised a good day ; and so we started. In spite of Mark Twain's chaff, the Riffelalp is a very respectable hill, even for Switiserland. Up, up, we climbed, the zigzags ever growing steeper and stonier, and the views ever more magnificent as each turn revealed some new glory. But always the Lion of Zerniatt, the mighty Matterhorn, was in our eye. We could not get away from it. Turn which way we would, it seemed to dominate the landscape. Like a mighty cathedral tower, fifteen thou- sand feet high, built by God of solid rock, we could seem to feel its presence, even when wo \l i; 1*1 ff>*|lW'^|*fif'^ " i^^muBB^ I { Fellow Travellers did not actually see it ; and the higher we won our way up the Riflfelberg, the more stupendous aud majestic grew that mighty mass of rock and snow. We made our way past the old church where are buried two of the rash climbers who first tried in 1866 to learn the secrets of the Matter- horn, over the bridge that spans the roaring Visp just set free from the icy fetters of the glacier, through the woods of spruce and hard pine, until, after two hours of tolerably hard climbing, we came to the Riffelalp hotel, one of the splendid hostelries that the canny Swiss have planted on every coign of vantage in their picturesque domain. We press on more rapidly, for the clouds are coming down lower and lower on Mount Cervin, as the French call the Matterhorn. Not only his head, but his shoulders, his trunk, his hips, are covered now. Even the lower peaks put on their hoods ; the wind rises and howls around our defenceless heads, as if it would blow us from the insecure ledge of rock around which we are trying to make our way, for we are far above the tree-line now. The rain begins to patter down ; and, as we get higher, it turns to pellets of hail, which cut our faces and hands like minute bullets shot from an invisible cata- pult. But here we are at last, just as the storm begins in good earnest, at the Ri£Felhaus, •>■ ' 'gwwii i aiiBuii ' i ' j:- ' -. :^ The Battle of the Cloud& >7 another famous hotel, and one of the highest ill all the Alps. Most grateful, too, is the warm fire and good cheer within. From behind the ample vestibule, screened by glnss on all sides, we watch the gathering tempest. Great, billowy masses of storm-laden clouds sweep up from the Zermatt valley on the one side, and from the Zmutt valley on the other, while down from every titanic mountain peak other battalions of clouds rush to meet them. The Matterhorn wholly disappears from view ; Monte Rosa vanishes behind her veil ; even white breasted Breithorn, nearest of all, is sud- denly blotted out, as if it had never existed. All the world is without form and void. Chaos reigns supreme. Louder and louder the demons of the air howl and shriek around us, but we can laugh at them behind the thick walls of our stone for- tress. They cannot make it quiver. The rains descend and the floods come, and they beat upon that house; but it falls not. Then the snow drives down from the top of the highest Alps, where it has its perpetual home. A whitish tinge is given to the sombre cloud, and unfor- tunate tourists, who had set out for distant peaks before the storm arose, begin to straggle into the hotel by twos and threes, their faces reddened and parboiled by the snowy blast, and their black coats covered with nature's ermine. ,..i ■ \% 18 Fellow Travellers Thus for four hours the storm rages, each moment moie furious, and the cloud in which we are wrapped grows denssr and blacker; when, look ! look ! by some invisible hand, in a single instant of time, quicker than on a mimid stage a curtain could be lifted, the cloud cur- tain is rolled away, and in majestic splendor the Matterhorn and all his magnificent brethren of Valais shine out flawless, speckless, immac- ulately grand. Below surge the baffled clouds, which the north wind is driving before him, filling the valleys, piling thick and deep upon the Gorner Glacier below. At once we start for the Gorner Grat, a rocky, snow-bound peak two hours* climb above the Riffelberg, a peak more than ten thousand feet above the sea. A little one, indeed, is the Gorner Grat among the thousands of Switzer- land, bat it lifts its modest head in the very centre of the mightiest mountains of Europe, and looks them all in the eye. As we climb the snowy, toilsome steep, we witness many a battle between the north wind and the sulky clouds, which refuse to give up, beaten. Every few minutes they return to the attack, and apparently sweep all before them. One minute, we are standing in brilliant sun- light ; the next, in impenetrable fog so dense and dark that we almost fear we shall lose the path. Then the next moment the north wind '^—Mi ^mm The Battle of the Clouds 19 ages, each I in which blacker ; hand, in a n a miniid cloud cur- ! splendor t brethren BS, im mac- led clouds, efore him, deep upon Br Grat, a limb above I thousand eed, is the if Switzer- n the very }f Europe, ** Cometh and cleanseth them," and all is sweet and clear again. Perhaps the most beautiful sight of all was when the wind began to gain the mastery, and the highest peaks, crowned with sunlight, would peer above the clouds, enormously exaggerated, and looking fifty thousand, instead of fifteen thousand, feet high, seeming to hang and topple over us, almost from the zenith itself. But old Boreas wins the day in the end; gloomily and sulkily the clouds retire ; and, by the time we reach the top of the Goriier Grat, every glorious peak in the magnificent circle, from the knife-edge of the Matterhorn's sum- mit, clear around the horizon to the Matterhorn again, stands out sharp and brilliant as when first from the chisel of the great Sculptor. It was a magnificent battle, and we are thankful that it was our good fortune to witness it. steep, we lorth wind to give up, turn to the fore them, illiant sun- )g so dense nil lose the north wind 1' II CCNOBENING MORAL MOUNTAIN-CLIMBING Let me take a text from the great mountains that, as I write, hem me in on every side. Be- fore me, as I look ouv of the window in Mon- treux, are the rugged, ragged peaks of the Savoy Alps ; behind loom up the Rochers de Naye and symmetrical Jaman, while off to the right, his head buried in the clouds, are the vast, snow)' shoulders of the Dent du Midi. But, like a good many other preachers, I am going to leave my text as soon as I can, taking it, as the fashion often is, for a point of de- parture alone. While these giant mountain peaks are beautiful to look upon, and magnifi- cently imposing in their proportions, they are far from desirable places to make one's home, and I would rather end my life amid the lesser glories and tamer scenery of Oshkosh or Kala- mazoo or Auburndale than amid these snow- clad, lofty heights. So I think it is — to leave my text and get down to my homily — with our every-day lives. A great deal more depends upon what we deem dull, commonplace, and prosaic than upon the occasional lofty mountains of achievement. In 80 Mil mmm Moral Mountain-Climbing 21 LIMBING mountains side. Be- iw in Mon- iks of the lochers de ) off to the re the vast, li. 3hers, I am san, taking }int of de- mountain id magnifi- s, they are me's home, 1 the lesser sh or Kala- hese snow- xt and get (r-day lives, at we deem I upon the ement. In fact, I doubt whether in the moral world there are any startling Alpine heights to be climbed in a single journey. Our daily ascent is more like our journey across the Nebraska prairies and the Colorado plains from the Missouri River to the Rocky Mountains. We are going up hill all the way, but so gradually that we do not know it until at last we stand five thousand feet above the sea, under the very shadow of Pike's Peak itself. So every duty done, every act of kindness rendered, takes us one step up the hill, an in- appreciable step, perhaps, a monotonous, weary sort of a step oftentimes, but yet a step that leads to real heights of moral grandeur. I was especially impressed with this thought recently while reading a book of Robert Louis Stevenson's entitled " Across the Plains." It is a description, in his own inimitable style, of a journey taken in an emigrant train across America to the Pacific coast in the early days of his poverty and obscurity. In those days (it was nearly thirty years ago) the horrors of an uncomfortable, hard-seated, ill-smelling emi- grant train to a sick and sensitive man must have been almost unendurable. I am sorry to find that he remarks more than once, for I fear there is more truth in it than we could wish, "Civility is the main comfort you miss in Amer- ica." But among all the boorish passengers I I! 1:1 I i 22 Fellow Travellers and snappish conductors and rude brakemen (le found one newsboy who sweetened and light- ened the journey by innumerable little acts of kindness. This is the way in which he has im- mortalized the cheery face and kindly deeds of that unknown newsboy: — The lad who rode with us in this capacity from Ogden to Sacramento made himself the friend of all, and helped us with attention, as- sistance, and a kind countenance. He told us when and where we should have our meals and how long the train would stop, kept seats at table for those who were delayed, and watched that we should neither be left behind nor un- duly hurried. You M'ho live at ease at homo can hardly realize the greatness of this service, even had it stood alone. When I think of that lad coming and going, train after train, with his briglit face and civil words, I see how easily a good man may become a benefactor of his kind. Perhaps he is discontented with himself, perhaps troubled with ambition. Why, if he but knew it, he is a hero of the old Greek stamp ; and, while he thinks he is only earning a profit of a few cents, he is doing a man's work and bettering the world. H In a Christian Endeavor meeting in Paris, the testimony that touched my heart the most was that of a young lady, who told us how, when she first spoke for her Master in an En- deavor meeting, hesitating and trembling and ^■n akemen he and light- tie acts of he has im- y deeds of 9 capacity raself the ention, as- He told us meals and t seats at d watched id nor un- ) at home lis service, nk of that rain, with liow easily tor of his rh himself, hy, if he >ld Greek ty earning tan's work in Paris, ; the most . us how, in an En- bling and Moral Mountain-Climbing 23 afraid of her own voice, as she sat down, a little girl by her side, who knew of her bashfulness, reached over and took her hand with a com- forting S' jueeze. She said no word, but that gesture told of the little girl's love and sym- pathy. It was one of the steps that uncon- sciously led two souls up the table-lands and into the sunlight of God's presence. But what is our whole system of Christian Endeavor if it is not a series of unconscious steps up invisible mountains? The prayer meetings, in a sense, are routine affairs; ful- filling the pledge, in our discouraged moments, may seem like a perfunctory obligation; the committees, like the lifeless parts of a machine ; but one great object of the Society is to form habits of well-doing, habits of confession, of de- votion, of service. Walking itself, after a while, becomes an ui- conscious act, and moral hill-climbing an un- conscious habit. After all, one does not very often set out to climb the Alps; and, when he gets upon a snow-clad, cloud capped mountain, he very soon has to come down again. But from these gentle slopes of every-day duty and gentleness and kindness there need be no return. This is the best kind of mountain-climbing, for these steps lead one at last to the top, and into the very presence of God. I': i ! I if H III THE LAND OF WILLIAM TELL It is strange that a dead hero can dominate for many centuries the land of his adventures. But so it is. France, I imagine, for hundreds of years to come will be Napoleon's land; Sweden will be the kingdom of Gustavus Adolphus, whoever the reigning sovereign may be ; and Mexico will alwaj's be the province of the brave Hidalgo. But that a land should be ruled by the mem- ory of a man that never existed, should be dominated by a mythological character, as, the authorities say, was William Tell, is stranger still. Yet it is true that the chief interest, apart from the natural scenery, that attaches to the Vierwaldstattersee, the loveliest lake in the world, perhaps, .*s due to the supposed ad- ventures of a man that did not live, did not slay the tyrant Gessler, or shcot the apple from his brave boy's head. It is a tribute to the matchless genius of Schiller, and shows how abiding an influence even a tradition of a great and noble life exerts. The romantic story of William Tell adds just 84 H The Land of William Tell 25 an dominate adventures, 'or hundreds [eon's land; >f Gustavus vereign may ( province of by the mem- , should be icter, as, the , is stranger lief interest, hat attaches sliest lake in supposed ad- live, did not t the apple a tribute to , and shows I'adition of a 'ell adds just the element of heroic adventure that this charming lake and country of the Four Forest Cantons of Switzerland need to complete their charms. At the head of the lake frowns Pilatus, grim and jugged as of yore, when, according to the tradition, Pilate fled hither to wash his ac- cursed liands free of their stains of blood. When he found he could not do this, he threw him- self despairing into the dark and gloomy lake near the mountain's top. Further down the lake, much-climbed Rigi, robbed of its mystic terrors, if it ever had any, by the two linris of railway that ascend and take to its summit ceaseless crowds of tourists, raises its precipi- tous cliffs six thousand feet above the sea, while on the other side of the lake the village of Stanz, with the Stauzerhorn towering above, marks the exploits of Winkelried. But all the lower end of the lake, where the cantons of Uri, Schwytz, and Unterwalden come together, is, beyond all others, Tell's country. Whether we sail down the winding lake, with the frowning cliffs, some of them snow-clad, towering overhead, and almost meet- ing above us in places, or travel over the mag- nificent roads that border the lake, and are frequently cut out of the solid mountain wall of rock, the excursion is equally charming by land or water. 26 Fellow Travellers Many of the quaint, low-browed hoasea, like Stauffacher's in TeH'tt time, are " Emblazoned with painted shields of arms, And words of wisdom which the traveller Sojourning reads and marvels at their meaning." Nothing that can add picturesque charm to the scene is wanting. On the right side of the lake, as you go toward Fiuellen, high up on the hillside, is Rutli, where the clans cuuie together to plan freedom for Switzerland and death to Austria's tyrannical power. On every side in the springtime flow little waterfalls, " The glacier milk Which from the fissures trickles foaming down." Near Rutli is a huge rock rising eighty feet out of the lake, a natural monument, which has most appropriately buen dedicated to Schiller and carved with his name in bold letters. Nearly opposite this on the left is Tell's chapel, a stone shrine built on the verge of the lake and adorned with large and excellent frescos of the stirring events in Tell's life. Here once every year a service is held, and the hearts of the sturdy Switzers are stirred again to patriotism and love of freedom, which for so many centuries they have maintained. In the wild storm, you will remember, when Gessler's men could no longer manage the boat, Ji!^^t.i.iL^vi--iaaaiiwvi;i.;,,i.Y....-j^j, lousea, like 5, r ;aning.' > charm to >ide of the up on the e together i death to )ry side in ighty feet trhich has a Schiller era. is Tells ge of the excellent life. held, and e stirred m, which ^ined. >er, when the boat, The Land of William Tell 27 he was obliged to call upon his prisoner for help. Tell was bound and lying in the boat, being carried to the dungeon, •' where neither sun nor moon will give thee light," as Gessler assured him. Taking advantage of the storm and of the fright of the boatman, he steered the boat to this sheltering rock. " I breathed a prayer to God for grace, and jamming The rudder down with all the force I could, I pressed the boat's stern right against this rock ; Then, quick my weapon seizing, swung myself Upon this ledge above me with a bound." Here on this legendary site stands the chapel to^ay. When we visited it, a German cornet- ist was also making the same pilgrimage ; and, turning his silver horn to the open door of the chapel, he softly played, •' Nearer, my God, to thee," "a prayer for God's grace" that we could all breathe on that fair, beautiful day, so diflferent from the scene at the time of Tell'e adventure on the same spot. A walk of two miles from Fluellen at the head of the lake, through green pastures which always echo to the cow-bell's tinkle, brings us to the little village of Altdorf, the scene of Tell's most famous exploit. Here a prison was being erected for patriotic spirits such as Tell ; and here the hated tyrant Gessler commanded him to shoot the apple from his son's head. ■■■ Mri 28 Fellow Travellers The very spot where Tell stood, accrrding to the story, is marked by a colossal bronze statue of the great archer, and the statue is set off by being placed against a great tower, on whose side is painted a huge picture of the memorable scene. A public fountain a few yards away is said to mark the spot where the brave Walter Tell stood, with his back against a tree, and the ap- ple on his curly head. As they proposed to bandage his eyes, that he might not watch the arrow's fatal flight, the fearless lad cries out : — " Wherefore my eyes ? Suppose I'd be flinching At shaft from father's hand ? I will stand fast Awaiting it, nor even wink my eyelids. Quick, father, show them thou a marksman art." At last, after a vain attempt to soften the tyrant's heart, the arrow flies and cleaves the apple to the core, leaving the boy unharmed. " That was a shot ! 'T will be The talk of man down to the latest ages. " They will relate tales of the archer Tell, As long as mountains are enduring." " What is the use," do you say, " of marking with monument and fountain the legendary scene of heroism? It is but a sentiment to make so much of the mythical Tell'a prowess." Ah I but '* the world is ruled by sentiment." ■^^'^-'r I'liy i -Trn'riiii" ) ''''^ 'T nfiiTTii^ •fttt. . accrrdiiig >al bronze atue is set tower, on ire of the ray is said alter Tell lid the ap- >po8ed to vratch the les out : — The Land of William Tell 29 W'- . JI»Mii^*WafcM1' A. ENDBAV- tito English wo letters, lie you will first three ' be said of ^e fortnida- iis," which o speak at day-school " Sveriges squal prc- Endeavor y was the =lays' con- 5 day and 56 we are icerueon High the thousand etc Chi. Kristna Endeavourforeningamy 39 cago), it takes us, with the many delays at cus- tomhouses and the slow trains of northern Europe, four days and nights to reach the beautiful capital of Sweden. We leave the Alps, the fertile plains of Al- sace and Lorraine, and the mighty cathedral tower of Strasburg behind us, and then a mul- titude of busy German cities, until at last we reach Hamburg. Then across the northern peninsula of Germany to Kiel, where Emperor Williams Canal was opened with so much pomp and circumstance a few months since. Iben by steamer to the flat pastures of Den- mark, by rail again to Copenhagen (Kjoben- havn, ,f you would spell it as the natives do), by steamer again to Malmci on the Swedish coast, and thence by rail sixteen hours more to otockholm. We cannot stop for sight-seeing, except as we get the fleeting but charming views from the car-windows or the steamer's deck, for we are Septembef if ^"'"^ ^^''^ '^*'"''*''^ '"°'"'"^' At the station to rneet us was Baiik-president Carlson (it is proper to give a man's business title here m Sweden), who took me at once to his most hospitable home; and, if you had all been with me, a hundred thousand of you, his heart is big enough, if not his house, to take us all in. MHI M ■"TtT ) 40 Fellow Travellers There is a peculiar charm about Swedish hos- pitality that I wish you could all enjoy with me. Every now and then my kind host would stop to shake hands with me, and pat me on the back under the left shoulder-blade in a manner peculiarly Swedish, and say, "Dear Dr. Clark, you are very welcome to Sweden." How could one help feeling at home? Soon the meetings began. Mr. Carlson, the president of the union ; Mr. Bookdealer Palm, the secretary, and his assistant, Mr. Sandberg, are all most hearty friends of Christian En- deavor, and are bound to give it the right of way in this convention. I am introduced to the executive committee of the Union, an earnest and devoted company of men from all parts of Sweden, and then to the convention as a whole, and in the evening deliver a " fiiredrag," which is interpreted by Pastor Truv^, c Goteborg, who studied in America for several years, and understands English as well as his native language. I found the fallow ground well broken up, and the Christian Endeavor seed already planted, and the times ready for just such an occasion as this to give the movement form and momentum. Mr. Palm, Mr. Sandberg, and others, had al- ready written and spoken much on the subject; a leaflet had been translated and widely circu- Swedish hos- li enjoy with i host would )at me on the in a manner ir Dr. Clark, How could Carlson, the lealer Palm, r. Sandberg, hristian En- the right of 1 committee 3d company and then to ;he evening ^rpreted by studied in inderstands re. broken up, id already ist such an it form and irs, had al- io subject ; lely cirou- Kristna Endeavourforeningarnas 41 lated ; and all that I had to do was to remove a few misapprehensions on the part of some. and show how simple, flexible, and universal the bociety is in its operations. In fact, there are already a large number of young people's societies in Sweden which have received their inspiration from the Christian Endeavor movement, and have adopted in part our principles, especially the committees; but they had not adopted the name or the pledge, and few have prayer meetings. But this con- vention will go far. I believe, toward establish- ing and unifying the work on the true basis. Considerable discussion occurred over the English word right into the heart of the Swed- ish name, and christen the new organization KRISTNA ENDEAVOR FOEENINGEN. thf r^ r ? Y P"* '''" " '^ " ''^ " Endeavor " as ol^^9 r ^°' °' ^'"^^ '' °"^ '^ the Ameri- cans do? I discreetly kept my mouth shut on this subject, but it was decided to adopt the American spelling. Endeavor, as being more in accord with Swedish usage. of Itself be a bond of union and sympathy be- tween old Sweden in Europe and new Sweden m America. , lai VII CONOEENINQ MUCH WANDERING IN MANY LANDS Since I last recorded our wanderings, my dear fellow travellers, we have been in many lands,— Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Holland, England, Scotland, Ireland, all in one week. We have been examined at five customhouses, and have crossed two of the most vicious stretches of tl)e Atlantic that you can imagine. These bits of the North Sea and the German Ocean are always lying in wait for the unsus- pecting traveller, with their seasick horrors, but last week they were unusually violent. Tlie ••equinoctial gale" was raging; and a terrible gale it was, lashing the sea into a perfect fury and strewing the coast in every direction with wrecks. During the very height of this terrific storm we were crossing from Denmark to Germany, a seven hours' journey ; and again the next night from Holland to England, seven hours more, in a still more violent tempest. The way those little steamers stood first on their heads and then on their heels, and then, for a change, seemed to turn over on their sides, and balance themselves on each elbow alternately, went be- yond my powers of description. 42 .^Dife ■TMIMP* \ IN MANY iderings, my }en in many iny, Holland, ne week. We tnliouses, and ious stretches ine. I the German br the unsus- k honors, but violent. Tlie and a terrible El perfect fury iir"ction with terrific storm bo Germany, a the next night bours more, in 'he way those eir heads and for a change, s, and balance itely, went be- Wandering in Many Lands 43 Every now and then a huge wave would strike the steamer with a report like that of a cannon. One of these waves broke in the port light directly over my berth, and flooded my bunk, but fortunately did no other damage. Perhaps you will be glad, when you read these words, that " we " are travelling together only figuratively. But these long nights of peril and discomfort are forgotten when London is reached, and in the familiar home of those good friends of all Christian Endeav .i-ers, Mr. and Mrs. Waters, we meet the members of the London Council, of which Rev. F. B. Meyer is president. Since reaching London we have been attend- ing a succession of great Christian Endeavor meetings, which you can imagine, but which I find it hard to describe. The welcome meeting in the Tabernacle (Spurgeon's) filled that mag- nificent auditorium to the topmost gallery ; yet there had been no public advertising and not a line of notice in the papers. Mr. Meyer pre- sided, and spoke most enthusiastic words for Christian Endeavor as a spiritual force; and the welcoming address by Mr. Fleming was be- yond all description kind and cordial. To my mind the great significance of the event lay in its demonstration of the strong hold that Chris- tian Endeavor has taken of the Christian public of London. It was far more than a personal warn R i I 44 Fellow Travellers matter. It was an occasion that told the public that Christian Endeavor had come to London to stay as a i.oimanent, aggressive religious factor. The day following, Sunday, was a busy day. In the morning and afternoon, at Bloonisbury Chai)el, one of London's famous Baptist churches, and in the evening at Mr. Meyer's church, Christ Church, of Westminster Bridge Road. This great church, as many of you know, was built in part by American friends in Dr. New- man Hall's time, and is a vast and ever increas- ing force for good in London life under the pastorate of that saintly man whose helpful words are read by so many of you. Glasgow, the great commercial metropolis of the Scots, was our next stopping-place, and the home of our dear friend Mr. Pollock our de- lightful haven. Here we met many of the offi- cers of the Scottish Union, and afterward a great public meeting was held in beautiful St. Andrew's Hall, which housed, I suppose, fully four thousand Glasgow Endeavorers that night. There I saw the badge banner for the great- est proportionate increase in societies, which Scotland won last year. There, too, as in Lon- don, most kind and generous words were spoken, which told of the strong hold that the Endeavor cause is gaining on the Scotch as well as the English heart. --rt«fe«i-;W.a«aWW! WA^r bold the public 3 to London to iligious factor, as a busy day. it Bloomsbury tnous Baptist t Mr. Meyer's uiuster Bridge you know, was is in Dr. New- id ever increase life under the whose helpful >u. d metropolis of r-place, and the Pollock our de- lany of the offi- id afterward a in beautiful St. I suppose, fully )rers that night, jr for the great- societies, which , too, as in Lon- is words were ig hold that the the Scotch as Wandering in Many Lands 45 On this evening, too, was launched ScotttBh Endeavour, a bright, breezy, yet substantial, sixteen-page monthly, edited by Mr. Pollock and Mr. Fleming. Now I am in Belfast, the great metropolis of northern Ireland, where the best Christian En- deavor convention that Ireland has ever known, and one of the best I ever attended anywhere, is in progress. Here are Mr. Lament and Mr. Montgomery, whom you remember at Boston, and Mr. New- man Hall, of Montreal and Belfast, who is about to go to Montreal again for a few days, I am in- formed, on a "Aome mission." Ireland has de- signs on the banner that Scotland holds this year. Keep your eye on the Emerald Isle. I cannot omit a reference to the intense, burning indignation that is felt everywhere against the Sultan and his government, or mis- government. In every speech this indignation blazes forth, and at every meeting resolutions are passed calling upon Lord Salisbury's gov- ernment to end the rule of the Turk and thus to mend Armenia. I ought also to have said that before I crossed the stormy North Sea to England, a hopeful meeting was held in Rotterdam in the interests of Christian Endeavor, the first ever held on Holland's soil. From this seed-sowing I hope for a future harvest. Mmmsm^' Si-i-isssgms&miiii HM f^^ VIII FREDKRICK BROTHBRTON METER - A Man ThtU Walka with God One of the men heretofore mentioned in thia volume should occupy a larger space than a line of passing allusion, so many of my fellow trav- ellers have been blessed unspeakably by his written and spoken words. Frederick Brothertou Meyer is no stranger to most of you. You have drawn inspiration from him. for he speaks to you through the printed page as few men are able to speak. Hi? words are no dead things. They glow and live with his own personality. If you know thoroughly his writings, you know the man. Yet it is pleasant to see an old friend in his own environment. The jewel loses nothing by reason of its setting. Christ Church, Westminster Bridge Road, London, is one of the churches that lives and breathes. A magnificent structure it is, of gray stone. It is of peculiar interest to Americans by reason of its impobing "Lincoln tower," which, during the pastorate of Dr. Newman Hall, was built by money raised iu America. 46 ■*\i,a4« • -iftiitili ii M i iiiiii MaM'rtjiiMiitriii^ Frederick Brotherton Meyer 47 f MEYER Hod sntioned in thia pace than a line my fellow tiav- eakably by his ' is no stranger awn inspiration ou through the able to speak. They glow and If you know low the man. old friend in his loses nothing by ir Bridge Road, )S that lives and ture it is, of gray 3st to Americans Lincoln tower," of Dr. Newman d iu America. This church has had a notable succession of eminent ministers, the renowned Rowland Hill being its first pastor. In all its r.ppointments its audience-room, its Sunday-school class- rooms, its lecture hall, and in all its smaller committee rooms — it is complete, according to the most modern ideas of ecclesiastical archi- tecture. But we are most interested in seeing its pastor in his study. A beautiful room is this study, but beautiful by reason of its asso- ciations and the pictures that hang upon the vail, and because of its living inmate, more thau by reason of any rich furnishings or drapery. Here, as is natural, hangs an oil painting of Rowland Hill ; another picture is of Newman Hall, while a marble bust of Dr. Hall stands in one corner. Here, too, is a large photograph of Mr. Spurgeon, while upon a table near by stands a speaking likeness of Dr. A. J. Gordon, of Boston, a man for whom Mr. Meyer expresses the profoundest reverence and affection. Another framed relic that makes the room attractive is a leaf from the diary of McCheyne, together with a pressed flower that McCheyne himself picked at Palestine. But the living occupant attracts us more than all the worthies that hang upon the wall. A man of medium height and rather slender build, whose somewhat sparse hair is brushed 48 Fellow Travellers back from a full forehead, sits in the easy-chair before me, talking in low but most earnest tones. His whole manner is as far from sepulchral gloom as it is from trivial levity. He impresses you as meaning every word he says. There is one theme that above all others gives a pathos and a richness to his voice, and that is the love of Christ and the importance of a life fully given to him. " Won't you tell me a little about your ex- perience of full consecration, Mr. Meyer?" I said. "Most gladly," he replied. "It is the one thing in ray life that is worth talking about, if anything is. I had accomplished some good, I believe, before this experience, and was not altogether a failure as a minister ; but I had not the power with men or with God that I desired. There was one stumbling-block in the way, one thing I had to yield, one affection that I had to root out of my heart; but, when the surrender was fully made and I gave up absolutely everything to God, the way became clear and bright. " I do not meap that everything was revealed to me suddenly. New apartments of the riches of God's grace are constantly being opened to me, but then I received the key that opened the outer door, and all the other doors swing inward as I come to them. ^'.UiaJ. W ,>Llt>iffHW)lM i iil l l. iil lJ!!l!|.M!Jl!. ' | i . '■ ^mm Frederick Brotherton Meyer 49 the easy -chair > most earnest as far from trivial levity, every word he kbove all others ) his voice, and 9 importance of about your ex- kir. Meyer?" I "It is the one diking about, if ed some good, I ), and was not ter; but I had ith God that I nbling-block in Ld, one affection eart ; but, when and I gave up the way became ing was revealed ints of the riches being opened to r that opened the ors swing inward "The two sayings that impressed me most deeply," he went on to say, " wer^, in the first place, one that was overheard by Moody as he walked in Phoenix Park in Dublin. He heard one man saying to another, as they walked be- hinrf him, 'The world does not yet know what God can accomplish through a fully consecrated man.' " The other saying that greatly influenced my life was Hudson Taylor's remark to me one day, —•God told me that he was going to evangelize inland Cliina, and that he would do it through me, if I would only walk by his side.' "Often and often have I thought of these words," said Mr. Meyer, " and great has been their influence upon my life. Tell the young people," he continued, " to read and reread and then to read again the Gospel of John, and see how our Lord was u$ed by the Father, how God spoke through him and to him, and how he was simply the moving will of God. There is oar example in this as in all things." " But do you always have an abiding peace and joy and confidence ? " I said. '• Are there no ups and downs in your religious experi- ence?" "Well," he replied, "I am not a man of ecstasies, or of exalted heights or abysmal depths. I do not think much about my emo- tions or my feelings, but simply try to do what ■■-^ftaisis-' Fellow Travellers God would have me do, and there is a satis- faction and peace in my life which passes un- derstanding." Great as is the congregation to which Mr. Meyer preaches on Sunday, it is a vastly greater congregation to which he preaches through the printed page. Not only are his sermons widely reported, but he is undoubtedly the most prolific writer of de- votional boolw and booklets of the present gen- eration, perhaps the most voluminous writer of devotional literature that the world has ever known. Moreover, there is a uniformity of ex- cellence about his work which is most remark- able. He has written very few dull pages, and fewer still weak pages. He is a master of simple, lucid, musical English. He never de- scends to goody-goody talk, or to cheap sen- timentality. There is much of piety, but very little pietism, ill his pages; much religion, but no religiosity. His is &Uo a manly and virile style as well as poetic and musical. His illus- trations are drawn from the very widest range, and show a large acquaintance with the liter- ature of the ages. Yet it is very evident that the Bible is the chief source of his inspiration and his power. He is above all an expositor. He often takes a common biblical phrase, which, because of its very familiarity, we pass by as we would a pebble in the street, and in a few sen- !■! -^KiML^... wm ;rs there is a satis- hich passes un- n to which Mr. i a vastly greatei ihes through the ely reported, but lific writer of de- the present gen- minous writer of world has ever Liuifonuity of ex- i is most remark- \r dull pages, and is a master of . He never de- )r to cheap sen- f piety, but very luch religion, but manly and virile isical. His illus- ory widest range, ce with the liter- very evident that of his inspiration all an expontor. oal phrase, which, , we pass by as we and in a few sen- Frederick Brotherton Meyer 51 tences of comment he causes it to glow and sparkle like a diamond of the first water. For instance, to illustrate his constant illumi- nation of biblical passages, as we were talking together, he said: "O, I have such a fear of being a castaway I Supposing you and I should become in Paul's sense of the word ' castaways,' what a dreadful thing it would be 1 Now I do not think," he went on to say, " that Paul meant that he was in danger of being cast away from the presence of God, and shut out of heaven, but that he was in danger of rendering himself unfit for God's use, just as we cast aside a pen when it will no longer write, or a bicycle when it becomes worn in its bearings and useless, so Paul feared that the time might come when God could no longer use him for his work; then he would be cast to one side and some fitter instrument be chosen. In this sense the thought comes upon me like a dreadful night- mare sometimes, What if I, too, should become a tool that God could not use, a poor, broken castaway?" ♦• But how do you manage," I continued, " to accomplish so much work, to write so many books, for someiljing new from your pen comes from the press every few weeks ? " "It is only by keeping at it," he replied, " by using what time I have, and because of a fac- ulty of concentration. I write on the cars, on -Tfl , Fellow Travellers the trams, wherever I have a few moments of leisure, and I find that I can always take up the train of thought where it is broken ofiF. My mind seems to work right on in the same line, and I can finish out a sentence that I be- gan yesterday, and carry out the thought with- out a break.'* But I cannot linger longer over this visit. It was not a formal interview; neither of us was in the mood of professional writers or newspaper men. We talked together for a little as brother with brother. It was my great privilege to look for a few moments into the clear, transparent depths of a great nnd good man's soul. I thank God for the glimpse I have gained, and wish that all who rend his works would see behind the writings a pure, unselfish, modest, devoted, and holy consecrated life. -4«a>-' ;rs few moments of always take up b is broken off. on in the same ttence that I be- le thought with- over this visit. ; neither of us onal writers or together for a It was my great }ments into the great and good ' the glimpse I 1 who read his writings a pure, boly consecrated THB PLOTJOHMAN POET — 1796-1896 One of the incidental events in our visit to Glasgow briefly alluded to in a previous chap- ter was an hour or two spent in the remarkable Burns Exhibition which marked the centennial of the death of the great poet. My visit was made under the happy guidance of the Rev. John Pollock who is a great lover of the Plough- man Poet and who knows his Burns by heart. Nothing is wanting to make this exhibition a memorable one and unique beyond all others of its kind. Here are brought together, from private col- lections and public museums, a multitude of objects bearing upon the life of Scotia's bard. The catalogue itself, which records the objects to be seen, is a portly volume of four hundred and eighty-six large pages ; and if there is any- thing which the lover of Burns fails to find in these pages we have not discovered it. The pictures in this exhibition naturally at- tracted our attention first. Perhaps the most famous of these is the original portrait of Burns by Alexander Nasmyth, of which there are two replicas and several copies. None of the copies, 63 MBM msi^Basnfmm III l:!l Ml! ! Mlii Mi ! I iiiii!!^ ^ii k Fellow Travellers however, have the beauty and pathetic outlines of the great original. Another notable picture represents the meeting of Burns and Scott on the only occasion when they were ever brought together. This was at the house of Professor Fergusson, when Scott was a mere boy. Burns had been affected to tears by some lines from an unknown poet un- der the print of a soldier lying dead on the snow, with his widow and dog beside hira. No one in the room could tell who wrote the lines except the boy, Walter Scott, who volunteered the itiformation ; and Burns rewarded hira with a kind look which Scott never forgot. Innumerable paintings and engravings have been inspired by the poet's work, and the walls of this great exhibition are hung with the painter's conception of the poet's thought. " Tam o' Shanter " naturally has inspired the greatest number of prints and paintings, and by more than one large canvas we are reminded how "The doubling storm roars through the woods; The lightnings flash from pole, to pole ; Near and more near the thunders roll ; When, glimmering through the groaning trees, Kirk AUoway seemed in a bleeze." ♦• The Cotter's Saturday Night " shares with " Tam o' Shanter " the honor of inspiring most frequently the artist's brush ; but many of the M>it ers pathetic outlines Bents the meeting [y occasion when er. This was at asont when Scott been affected to iknown poet un- ng dead on the beside him. No 9 wrote the lines who volunteered warded him with forgot. engravings have rk, and the walls hung with the 3t*s thought, r has inspired the d paintings, and I we are reminded gh the woods; e. to pole ; ders roll ; groaning trees, It." ght " shares with of inspiring most but many of the The Ploughman Poet 55 minor poems have also been illustrated by great masters of the pallet. The portraits of many of the people, too, whom Burns immortalized hang upon these walls. Even those who are alluded to in no complimentary terms are here found. James Elphinstone, for instance, of whom Burns wrote, — " O thou whom Poetry abhors 1 Whom Prose had turned out-of-doors." Here, too, is the picture of William Creech, the poet's publisher, — « A little upright, pert, tart, tripping wight, And still his pn.-cious self his dear delight ; Who loves his own smart shadow in the streets, Better than e'er the fairest she he meete." Many another author, perhaps, can enter into Burns's inmost feelings as he reads these with- ering lines, though he be not the master of such a picturesque and varied assortment of adjec- tives. Of even more interest than the pictures upon the walls are the precious manuscripts, carefully preserved from moth and rust behind transpar- ent glass. Here we find " Holy Willie's Prayer," which we do not wonder grated so harshly upon the Calvinistic sensibilities of many of Burns's countrymen : — •'•XMMMMMMMMaMPfMMMIil ^iil''^:r* h in mwm ! ( 56 Fellow Travellers ,,v «• O Thou, wha in the heavens dost dwell, Wha, as it pleases best thysei", Sends ane to heaven and ten to hell, A' for thy glory, And no for ony guid or ill They "ve done afore thee I " One of the most interesting manuscripts is written, not upon the coarse and time-stained paper which often tells of the poet's poverty, but upon a pane of glass which has been care- fully removed from its window-frame and pre- served for posterity to read. On this glass Burns scratched with diamond point the fa- mous thirty-two lines, beginning : — «• Thou whom chance may hither lead, Be thou clad in russet weed, Be thou deckt in silken stole. Grave these maxims on thy soul. Life is but a day at most Sprung from night in darkness lost." A bottle in a tin box in this unique exhibi- tion contains a bookworm, with the inscription written below : — " Through and through the inspired leaves, Ye maggots make your windings ; But O, respect his lordship's taste, And spare his golden bindings." We must not pass by the multitudinous edi- tions of Burns's works. Were there nothing else in this exhibition, these editions alone iHij;: i^^tj^ wHagmeMojii*-**^ n ■Hers IIS dost dwell, lel', en to hell, jre thee I " iiig manuscripts is e and time-stained he poet's poverty, hich has been cnre- low-frame and pre- d. On this glass tond point the fa- iling : — Y hither lead, veed, stole, thy soul. it arkness lost." this unique exhibi- (vith the inscription inspired leaves, windings ; p's taste, lindings." ) multitudinous edi- Vere there nothing lese editions alone ■iiirniiln nnwBIMWmilltWPMW The Plougiiman Poet 57 would make it memorable, and would show the wonderfully enduring hold which the poet of the ploughshare has upon the hearts of man- kind. Case after case is filled with editions of the poet's work, sent forth by hundreds of pub- lishers and in many languages. They are of all sizes, too, from the tiny thumbnail edition which can be read only with a magnifying-glass to the portly folio. Our own country is represented in this col- lection by sixty-seven dilTeient editions, one of which was issued in Hartford, one in Salem, one in Wilmington, two in Baltimore, eighteen in Boston, twenty-one in New York, and twenty- one in Philauelphia. Of course the editions printed in England are literally numbered by the hundreds, and all this within a hundred years from the death of the poet. There are a multitude of other interesting rel- ics which I cannot take space to mention, among them a largo armchair loaned by Queen Victoria, made from the beams of AUoway Kirk. On the inlaid brass in the back of this chair is engraved the whole of "Tarn o' Shan- ter"; and it is in itself, apart from its royal as- sociations, a beautiful work of art. The secret of \ho p. et's power, so wonder- fully exemplified by this centennial exhilliion, a power which seems to be increasing as the years go by, is not fat to seek. Every lover of i I lilli ililliili i'nitiiiil'! A' 58 Fellow Travellers Burns would give a Bomewlmt different expla- nation, perhapfl, and though each explanation might be partial, each would be true. One will find the source of his power in his stalwart pa- triotism and love of country, a patriotism which touches a responsive chord in the heart of every man in every clime who to himself hath said, *' This is my own, my native land." «• An early wish (I miml its power) I had, and to my latest hour It still shall 'heave my breast ; That I, for poor auld Scotland's sake, Some useful plan, or beuk could make. Or sing a sang at least." Another will explain the mighty grip which he has upon the heart of mankind by his stur- diness of character which seems to give a strength and vigor to every slightest poem, a sturdy self respect which never toadied to the great or rich in whatever straits he found him- self. Burns once wrote : — " However inferior, now or afterward, I may rank as a poet, one honest virtue to which few poets can pretend I trust I shall ever claim as mine. To no man, whatever his station in life, or his power to serve me, have I ever paid a compliment at the expense of truth." His uncompromising love of common people and common things, his unswerving democracy when democracy was by no means a popular tmnm Kginn iii>'-«tii»a.twi<"'»"'"*"'' umaaa Icrs t different expla- each explanation >e true. One will n his stalwart pa- i patriotism which the heart of every liimself hath said, and." lowcr) r breast ; nd's sake, :oulcl make, nighty grip which nkind by his stur- seems to give a slightest poem, a ver toadied to the aits he found him- d, I may rank as a poet, an pretend I trust I shall latever his station in life, paid a compliment at the of common people verving democracy > means a popular The Ploughman Poet fl ••fad," will ever endear him to the common people. But above all he is Nature's poet and always keeps close to Nature's heart. In this lies the great secret of his charm and power. So often has this been said that to repeat it is wearisome ; but it has never been better said than by the anonymous author who thus describes him : — "The Simple Bard, unbroke by rules of Ait, lie pours the wild effusions of the heart; And if inspir'd, 't is Nature's pow'r* inspire j Hers all the melting thrill and hers the kindling fire." r hiB rniinnin-ri"""'^" *■ f> SSirWl^lB^iSlO^.'**-" ,-, 1 THREE THOUSAND MILES IN GERMANY Our three weeks' campaign in the "Father- land " involved something like three thousand miles of travel back and forth, and up and down, crisscrossing Germany in all directions. Meetings have been held not only iu German Switzerland on the edge of the German Empire, and in the great cities of Berlin and Hamburg and Breslau and Dresden, and in Halle and Leipsic, but in most of the principal provinces of Germany as well, in Pomerania and Silesia, :n East Prussia and West Prussia, in Saxony and Hanover, and iu Hesse Nassau also. The last four meetings have been among t'ae most interesting of all. In Cassel may be said to be the headquarters of Christian Endeavor for Germany. Here is the largest society of all, with about one hundred and twenty members. Moreover, both young men and women are found in this society. This is a startling inno- vation for Germany. One would almost think, to hear the common remarks on this subject, that it was about the most immodest and dan- gerous thing in the world for young men and women to come together in a prayer meeting. The great restrictions under which the fair sex 60 inii jai i awwi i ut.:*!"" ' ■J IN GERMANY n in the "Father- te three thousand orth, and up and in all directions. it only in German e German Empire, rlin and Hamburg md in Halle and principal provinces lerania and Silesia, Prussia, in Saxony 'Nassau also, ve been among t'ae Cassel may be said Christian Endeavor irgest society of all, i twenty members, a and women are is a startling inno- j?ould almost think, ks on this subject, immodest and dan- for young men and n a prayer meetiiig. r which the fair sex Three Thousand Miles in Germany 61 ia placed in all such matters in Germany will undoubtedly prove a decided hindrance to the work of Christian Endeavor. But the customs of the centuries cannot be altered in a single day, or the prejudices of a thousand years dissipated like the morning mist. Though I find many, pastors and others, who would like greater freedom of social inter- course between the young men and the young women of their churches, and feel that the un- constrained mingling in religious meetings would make for purity and righteousness und the advancement of the kingdom of God, even they cannot bring it about in their own churches. Still, as I say, here in Cassel is a genume mixed Christian Endeavor society, and a most earnest and aggressive one, if I may judge from all appearances. At any rate, I am, sure that the members show their colors, for most of the young ladies, I noticed, wore huge silver C. E. monograms almost as large as one of our cart- wheel dollars. The next morning early, I was off for Wies- baden, the famous watering-place near the Rhine, where the empress of Germany has been this past summer, with her royal retmue. No wonder she goes there, for it is one of the love- liest towns in Germany, and its waters are fa- mous throughout the world. f, - MHBI (1! 1 ' I l\) i^J i ^1 11 i 1 'lii ■^iilP 'mIIM! 62 ' Fellow Travellers But of move interest to us is to know that here, too. is a fine Christian Endeavor boc.ety in the church of the beloved and honored I a*- tor Ziemendorff. 1 do not know when I have enjoyed an evening more than the one in Wies- haden. , . .,^„ This society is largely composed of young ladies, but the sterner sex are not excluded, and I saw at least four of them whose white ribbon badges proclaimed that they are members of the Wiesbaden Society. But if there were few young men to lend their manly dignity, a society of such young ladies would be a strong and notable one m any \fter the public meeting, where my address was translated by Pastor Ziemendorff, and by an American physician of the town, an after oieeting of the society and a few of its friends was held. At this gathering reports were given from all branches of the society work. Some of the young ladies spoke in German, and some in excellent English, and, as I told the«i, I had to rub my eyes to make sure, as I heard the en couraging story of the year's work, whether I • was in England or America or Germany. At- terward, Miss Ziemendorff transla d a brief address of mine with the utmost fluency. Al- together it was a delightful and memorable ex- perience. JM lers J is to know that Endeavor bociety and honored Taa- :now when I have 11 the one in Wies- imposed of young ) not excluded, and irhose white ribbon y are lueoibers of oung men to lend ety of such young I notable ope in any , where my address Jiemendorff, and by the town, an after a few of its friends 5 reports were given aciety work. Some a German, and some ,B I told them, I had :e, as I heard the en- ar's work, whether I la or Germany. Af- f transit d a brief utmost fluency. Al- ii and memorable ex- Three Thousand Mi) s in Germany 63 The next morning, - Imost before daylight, I started to traverse a large slice of Germany once more, and evening found me in the great university town of Halle. The meeting-place was the hall of the famous school founded m the last century by the devout Francke, one of the most godly men that ever lived m Germany. Starting with nothing but an overmastering faith and unbounded zeal, the huge buddings, the flourishing school, and the vast influence o his work, not only in Halle, but throughout Germany, testify in the strongest manner to the power of faith and prayer. Mauy of the schoolboys were present at the meeting, as well as the director of the great In- stitute Both here and in Leipsic, a number of students from the universities attended, m- eluding many Americans, and it was my pleas- ant privilege to greet Endeavorers from a parts of the United State. '''''^JfTtJ.I hospitable cordiality of tl.ese kind friends I shall not soon forget. In these two places, Pastor Simsa, the prison cl.-»main of Halle, was my interpreter, and a better none could ever wish to have. Thus has come to an end this long Beries of Christian I^deavor meetings in Germany. In ahnoB every instance have I been surprised at the We audiences that have gathered, and at the eXt interest manifested. Still, there are mjM ^^^ mmmi 64 Fellow Travellers many and mountainous diflBculties in the "nray of Christian Endeavor in Germany, and what the result of this seed-sowing will be, only the future years will tell. May some seed spring up and bear fruit unto eternal life. •«>«MrtM«^MIMWW«#ipif* XI TWO FAMOUS QBBMANS IN THE CLASSROOM WdUuttuen and Harmck To-day let us catch a glimpse of student life in Germany. Let me try to picture for you two striking figures of the German classroom, in these ehd-of-the-century days. I will not speak of their orthodoxy or heterodoxy, or the hair- splitting differences of the philosophy which they advocate, but simply give a first and sur- face impression of the way in which they strike an American on his first introduction to their classrooms. Let us go to Gottingen first. An old middle- of-the-era city is this, with crooked, narrow streets and beetle-browed houses placarded with famous names, showing that Bismarck and Longfellow and Bancroft and many another celebrity once dwelt in them. The town is surrounded by an ancient wall, now entirely unused except as a promenade,— the " Indian Ridge" of Gottingen. All my readers who have been Andover students will understand this allusion. There are only about twenty-six thousand people in the city and the students constitute 65 A A 66 Fellow Travellers one-twenty-sixth part of the population, giving them a far more predominant and conspicuous place in the town than they occupy in Halle or Berlin, or the larger university cities of Ger- many, where, though the students are more numerous, they are swallowed up to a larger extent in the vaster population. Many of the students, though by no means all of them, be- long to the different corps which are distin- guished by the most brilliant of caps, red, green, blue, or purple, a headgear which is sur- passed for ridiculous absurdity only by the jaunty little red cap which the English Tommy Atkins balances in a most precarious way over his right ear, holding the strap thereof appar- ently in his mouth, lest it should at any mo- ment topple down from its insecure perch. Most of these corps students are scarred and seamed like veterans of a hundred battles, as indeed they are, for they are obliged, on pain of expulsion from the corps, to fight at least six duels a year. Some of the faces are perfectly hideous with the deep and brutal scars of which their owners are so proud. But here is a handsome university lecture hall whero almost all the lectures, except those in medicine and chemistry, are given. Before the hour for the lecture arrives it is thronged with students hurrying to the different class- rooms, for punctuality at lectures seems to be n, giving ispicuouB Halle or a of Ger- are more it larger ny of the them, he- re distin- ;aps, red, ich is Bur- Y by the h Tommy way over iof appar- t any mo- ire perch, larred and battles, as on pain of t least six I perfectly s of which ty lecture cept those J. Before } thronged rent class* )ems to be Two Germans in the Classroom 67 one of the virtues of the n- erage university student. We take our seat on one of the long benches, with a desk in front of us carved with the names and initials of many generations of students, together with various symbols and devices which tell of wandering thoughts. Evidently the minds of the students are not always on high theology or lost altogether m the fog of metaphysical speculation, for the names of "Emma" and "Lisa" and "Ida and various other feminine appellations appear upon the much-carved desks. The students are all in their places, when the door opens, and, with a quick, nervous tread, the professor enters. It is the famous Well- hausen, who many timid souls have feared would shake the very foundations of our faith and uproot all our traditionary views of the word of God. A man of »tout and muscular build, with iron-gray hair and beard, ho is by no means fierce or malevolent looking. Hur- riedly entering the room, he hastily throws off his overcoat, steps onto the platform behind his desk, and begins to talk in a most noncha- lant and indifferent sort of a way almost before he has hung his coat upon its appropriate peg. This studied indifference of entrie and exit seems to be affected by many German profes- sors I say " affected " advisedly, for no man can really be quite so utterly indifferent and ."*W« 68 Fellow Travellers unconscious of all liis surroundings as many German professors appear. No word of kindly salutation to the class, no prayer such as we are all accustomed to in our theological seminaries before the lecture begins, nothing but a jump into the subject, in tnedias re«, and a talk at railroad speed until the three-quarters of an hour are exhausted, when, with equal abrupt- ness, he puts on his coat and hat, talking up to the last minute, and leaves the room almost be- fore the echo of his last word dies away. The whole attitude of the average German theolog- ical professor seems to be, " Hear me if you can, but it makes very little di£Ference to me whether you do or not." As to having any personal interest in the individual student, it seems to be furthest from his conception. In fact, Professor Wellhausen rarely seems to lecture to his students, but directs most of his attention to a crack in the floor about eight feet from the base of the platform on which he stands. As this crack is on the right hand side of the desk, near the back wall of the lecture- room, the students can rarely catch rire than a glimpse of a somewhat sharp profile, with a good view of the right ear. Sometimes he turns squarely around with his back to the students and his face to the wall ; sometimes he lifts his eye aloft and fixes it upon a spot in the ceiling, but inevitably the crack in the floor at- MRM Two Germans in the Classroom 69 tracts his att mtion once more and he brings his eyes back to their favorite resting-place. Just now Wellhausen lectures chiefly on philological subjects, and the heavy guns of his battery are not turned as formerly upon the books of Moses. Whether it is owing to a lack of interest in the subjects on which he dis- courses, or to his uninteresting style, or to the fact that much of his best work has been pub- lished, many of his lectures are attended by very few students, the one which I have de- scribed attracting less than a dozen, if I re- member correctly. But it must not be supposed that all German professors adopt this nonchalant, indifferent style. Let us go into Harnack's lecture-room, for instance, in the University of Berlin. Here we find an entirely different state of affairs. There are at least two hundred and fifty or three hundred students present, among whom are nearly a score of Americans, to hear the great authority on church history. We leave our overcoats in the hall outside, and, if we are especially anxious to resume them again when we go out, we chain them to the wall with long steel chains and heavy padlocks which conveniently hang from every hook, for over- coat thieves are both numerous and wily at the door of this theological lecture hall. The room is 80 full that we are obliged to take the very wmm ■« Tmr 70 Fellow Travellers front seat and literally sit at the feet of the great lecturer. Scarcely has the last ntudent taken his place, when the door opens once more, and a ti< , wiry man, with a thin, scattering mustache and hair brushed straight back from his forehead, enters the room. He is ill-dressed and looks underfed, and we at first think he is one of the poor theologues who is working his wiiy through the university, spending more for midnight oil than for oatmeal porridge. But he mounts the platform instead of taking his seat with the rest of us, and, after a pleasant word of greet- ing, begins his lecttire, for this is nonr- other than the celebrated Ilarnauk. There w.is noth- ing of the indifferent •' take-it-or-leave-it " air about him. He soon warms to his subject, and evidently is thoroughly interested himself while seeking to interest his pupils. He gesticulates) freely and appropriately. His eyes sparkle, and now and then he runs his fingers through his long hair, pushing it back from his ample forehead. At times he becomes decidedly eloquent, and sallies of wit frequently bring a broad grin to the faces of the eager students, who are dili- gently pushing their pens to keep up with his torrent of words. Evidently Harnack does not despise the graces of oratory and is not afraid to make his lecture interesting as well as in- ^■/iiiwirtM or Weiss's career, Professor Harnaok said to a friend of mine : " It comes to all of us sooner or later. It will come to me as well as to the rest. I shall lose my popularity and my students one of these days. The night Cometh, the night of decadence and unpopular- ity, as well as the night of death. It becomes us all to work while our day lasts." Surely the prosaic minister of the siuiple gospel could utter no more sensible or practica truth than this. For the great scholar, as for the humblest worker, the night cometh. Let us work while it is called to-day. > i8^#^«* II' r r tJ I ii a i ^Tirn iii fi i n"' i i«ii- i '''T i "-"""'-'^'" ' --'^ ''^ '^'^- mm him- tlieir >f all corn- Hill ) run rated 'iiaok of us ell as ' and night )ular- iomes y the could 1 than iblest while W^' XII BOMB THINGS IN GERMANY WORTH COPYING During these weeks in which we have been zigzagging together across the " Fatherland," stopping eacli night in a new place for a new meeting, 1 liavo kept my eyes open for hints and suggestions that might be of use in the Itnme-land aciuss the sea. It is needless, perhaps, to say that there are many things in our religious life that I believe it would be vastly advantageous to our friends here to copy, and some things here that I should not wish to see copied at home ; for in- stance, the big mugs of foaming beer and the lighted cigars over which Christian Endeavor is often discussed by the ministers and the young men in the Young Men's Christian Associations of Germany. However, I have not come in the role of a critic, but more as a friend and admirer of the land of Luther, to find what good things I can learn. One of these good things, which I find in almost every city, is a Christian hotel or hospiz, as it is called. Almost every city of consider- 73 ,.^-- ^**' mmmm !f» i \yii,iiiKgi! Lom ^'^^4v^Si!P(ff ! # ' W ' Wiyw • ' ^ Fdlow Travellers able Bne in Germany has a hospiz. Often it 's in connection with the Young Men's Cluibtian Association of the city. Sometimes, as in Dres- den and Berlin and Stettin, it is a fine, large, handsomely furnished hotel, which would do credit to any metropolis. At other times it is a more modest edifice ; but always the rooms are clean, the feather beds, under which one sleeps without any intervening upper sheet, are warm and downy, and the fare is abundant and sub- stantial. In every room is a Bible, and Scripture mottoes and pictures of Bible scenes adorn the walls. The price asked is not particularly cheap; but neither is it high, and you feel that you are getting all you pay for. The servants are allowed to take no fees, which of itself is a great relief to a travelling American. Every morning, at eight or half past,- prayers are held for fifteen minutes in the salon, which are at- tended by all the servants and by as many of the guests as desire to go. Why should not such hotels bo established in all our cities? The travelling Christian public must be far larger in America than in Germany, and many persons would patronize such a hospiz if it were well kept and could compete in prices with the ordinary hotels of the city. I do not mean a cheap and shjibby boarding- house, of doubtful cleanliness and more than "^^HWriBMI ■■■i German Things Worth Copying 75 doubtful comfort, such as are some of our so- called " temperance hotels," but a genuine, self- respectiug, first-class, reasonable-priced hotel. I believe that such a hospiz would be a financial success as well as a boon for the religious pub- lic. Who will be the first to attempt the ven- ture in America? Another thing that I have liked in Germany is the larger use of religious pictures and statues than we are accustomed to at home. There are two works of art of which I see copies in almost every home that I enter in Germany, whether rich or poor, high or low. One is a reproduction of Thorwaldsen s beauti- ful statue of Christ, the original of which stands in the old Frue Kirke in Copenhagen ; and the other is a copy of Plockhorst's beauti- ful painting of " Christ the Consoler," in which our Lord is represented in a wonderfully gra- cious and benignant attitude, reaching down to help a poor, burdened sinner who drags himself to his feet. No words can describe the pathetic charm of this picture, or the gracious dignity of the statue. Sometimes the reproduction is very small and cheap, and costs but a few pfennigs. At other times it is a large and finished produc- tion, costing many marks. Such a picture and such a statue would prove a benediction in every home. The sweet and gentle eyes would follow tmmim ii.M* ''ii«i.»««iir w I'll' .il»iiii.ri.ir this respect. If they spy a possible fare a quarter of a mile away, they begin to shout at him to attract his attention, and crack their long whips in a most vicious and irritating way. In the populous streets it seems as if a succes- sion of pistol-shots were going off around your ears from dawn to dark. The shoeblacks seek to attract your attention by pounding vigor- ously on their blocks ; the fruit-sellers bawl out their wares in the manner that has been made ; so familiar by their countrymen at home ; the I dealers in prickly-pears shout out the virtues of I their luscious fruit; tha venders of hot chest- 1 nuts scream a description of their warm and i mealy " castaneas " ; and the newsmen, for boys ^ evidently have not lung power enough for this trade, split your ears with ««Roma-a," " Tribunaa," etc., with the last syllable always indefinitely prolonged and emphasized. When all these venders gather together un- . , ,i. M n «n « n., .i.p mi i i iiM .i i» W ' -ii ilJWMWIMHWWIMWMilWHiMMBWi mm ^ T Naples by Night 81 der the great dome of the beaxit ful Victor Emmanuel arcade in the centre of the city, and the lofty arches ring with the varied yells, the pandemonium-like effect is indescribable. Babel becomes a living reality. The narrow lanes of Naples, many of them mere flights of stone steps leading from the lower town to the upper, are fearfully dirty, but exceedingly picturesque. Here everything is going on. Boys are sleeping on the sidewalk in long rows. Women are cooking the dinner in bubbling caldrons of hot oil. Others are combing their children's heads most attentively and minutely, as monkeys are often seen to treat their offspring. In fact, the "Naples hunt " is always in progress. Shoemakers are cobbling most disreputable old scraps of leather, which bear some resemblance to shoes. Fish- wives are dispensing mussels and snails and live eels. Gardeners are disposing of leeks, onions, and garlic. Tailors are plying their trade. All kinds of hucksters are peddling small wares. Families are eating dinner. Wayfarers are gorging themselves with vermicular-looking edibles at the macaroni stands. In fact, every- thing that one can imagine is taking place here in the broad glare and publicity of the hot Italian sun. But my title promises some night scenes of Napleef, and I find the daylight view so interest- 82 Fellow Travellers ing that I have little room left for a Gerard Dow picture, even if I could paint one. At night, however, Naples is very much the same as bj day, only more so. The noises, the gay, half-barbaric costumes of the women, the glare of the innumerable flares that mark the provision -booths and little shops, are only emphasized and not subdued by the deepening of the early twilight. Now come with me to this open street that skirts the harbor, and look off toward that black, towering con-- that rears itself beyond the bay. I do not need to tell you that it is dread Vesuvius. We have been to look at it many times dur- ing the day ; but by daylight only a cloud of smoke can be seen issuing from the crater at the peak, while from several cracks along the side wreaths of steam arise. But at night it presents a grander and more awful spectacle. The crescent moon reveals the pillar of smoke that continually belches from the mighty mon- ster's bowels, and is not bright enough to dim the glowing patch of burning lava, which, like a huge figure seven r^ turned the wrong way, quivers, and ^ throbs and scin- tillates in the still night air. That glowing figure seven ia a vast river of molten lava, more than a mile long, two hundred yards broad, and thirty feet deep, which was made by an erup- Naples by Night 83 tion only a few months since. What a hint does it give us of the mighty pent-up forces, which once in a while break their bounds, just as they did two thousand years ago when Pompeii and Herculaneum slept peacefully, un- suspecting of evil, at the mountain's foot ! You cannot see them; but there they lie, those buried, silent cities of the plain, such a contrast to the gay, noisy, brilliant Naples but half a score of miles away. There they have lain, under their cerements of lava and ashes, for nearly twenty centuries, and only one corner of the winding-sheet has yet been lifted. As from Naples we look at the great moun- tain in the gloaming with the fiery gash glow- ing on its side, and think of the silent cities that lie buried above its pulsating heart, we can better understand than ever before why this destruction may have come. Naples to-day, as always, is full of all kinds of pimps and pro- curers, and lewd fellows of the baser sort. Si- lent witnesses unearthed at Pompeii show that she was far worse than modern Naples, and that her corruption was putrescent in its rot- tenness. Who will dare to say that there is no connection between God's fiery cinders and man's utter corruption ? Turn t6 the other side of the harbor, and you will see Puteoli, barely three miles distant, where Paul landed after his long and stormy . .,>■' ^•»«» ^T^tV':}^ >-'y# 7 — 'n-V***Wt5.' 84 Fellow Travellers journey about this time of year. He took "a ship of Alexandria" for Italy. To-morrow I expect to take a ship of Italy for Alexandria, over the same seas. May the bumble disciple not have so long, boisterous, and adventurous a voyage as the great apostle. 1 I r I i'ia, pie )US XIV THE OLDEST AND THE YOUNGEST; Or, Chrittian Endeavor in tAe Land of the PjframidM The oldest civilization in the world and the youngest Christian organization in the world have met together ; Egypt and Christian En- deavor have kissed each other, to adopt the Oriental imagery of this country. Here, under the very eyes of the " far-seeing Sphinx," I find a Christian Endeavor welcome and the Christian Endeavor spirit. At last " forty centuries look down " on this child of less than sixteen winters. The foster-parent of Christian Endeavor in Egypt, who has, so to speak, acclimatized the Society in the land of the Pharaohs, is the Egyptian mission of the United Presbyterian Church of America. Some two years ago, the first society was started, and now there are three or four societies, including at least one Junior society at Asyoot, a long way up the Nile, where is one of the chief stations of the board. But especially to Dr. White and Miss Thompson of this mission should the thanks of all Christian Endeavorers be given for intro- 8S ««ia,va*^"^j.^«iwne- '^^ ^,-,»i»ai-» •*!'■ >*•■ -->'**' ' i. •* •*^wi ■ wrftsTHtrc^i;:;, ii6(ai*Mai*^rt*e«fe»*aBi(ifei^^ s.-OttWw-V.fiiif !i!i*4»S'«'^' i-S^^-s- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 i.4 IM 2.2 IM 1.6 V <^ ^ PhotDgraphic Sciences CoipDration €< 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)672-4503 % V »" \\ 6^ .„J *t" ^. z, CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/iCIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / insti^ut Canadian da microraproductions historiquas yUStumm m ~ ^sSiti ii0 ^fli i ii < :.3wSSSSu»Si3^^S&s«.-;;'S^?«ssfc '••- 86 Fellow Travellers ?• ducing the Society and watching over its in- terests. I had but two days in Cairo altogether, but I had scarcely been there two hours when I was surprised and delighted to receive a visit from four Christian Endeavorers, — Dr. White and Rev. Mr. Reed of the mission, Rev. Mr. Lewis of America, and a young man from Cook's tourist office who is a stanch member of the Society, thus setting an example to many another young business man in a far land. They informed me that I was ♦• billed " for an address the next night in the mission church under the auspices of ** the Christian Endeavor society of Cairo." This is the English-speaking society, and, as befits a cosmopolitan city like Cairo, where the ends of the earth come together, it is a very cosmopolitan society. Americans, English, Scotch, Irish, Welsh, Austrians, Egyptians, and I do not know how many other races, make up its membersliip. Its meetings are held Satur- day afternoon, just before an English preaching- service, to which, of course, its members ad- journ. The meetings are well attended, spir- ited, and spiritual. On the night of the public meeting about a hundred and fifty came together, including the members of the Girls' Christian Endeavor So- ciety of the mission. I was kindly introduced its iu- ir, but hen I El visit White r. Mr. from ber of many land, for an hurch ieavor nd, as re the very iglish, 9, and ke up Satur- shing- rs ad- , spir- >out a ig the irSo- iuced .' •■ A w A SHEIKH OF THE DESERT ^^j' JSS ^e&^WW*" »-'iiliB(BBOi^S44M«»lf«l**J<' - 1 1 The Oldest and the Youngest 87 by Dr. Harvey, one of the veteran miasionaries of Egypt; and, as the whole audience under- stood English, I did not have to struggle with an interpreter, or an interpreter with me. Let me congratulate the young people of the United Presbyterian Church of America on having such a splendid mission as the *' mission in Egypt " to work for, pray for, and give to. In all the world around I do not know of an- other mission that has been more signally blessed of God. Practically it has the whole of Egypt for its field, as there is little done by any otlier society, and nobly has it seen and grasped its opportunity. It has 42 missionaries on the field, 401 native workers, more than 600 church members, more than 11,000 pupils gath- ered in 161 schools. Moreover, the nat^'es themselves are taught to give, as well as to pray and work, and Dr. Harvey told me that there were in the mission more than 400 Egyptian tithe givers. How is that for an example to Christian Endeavorers at home ? I wonder whether the Tenth Legion of New York City will not admit these Egyp- tian brethren as affiliated members. Well may the United Presbyterian Endeav- orers feel a generous pride in this mission. May they hold in their memories and prayers the veterans. Dr. Watson and Dr. Harvey and Dr. Griffin and Dr. Murch of Cp'ro, as well as MMHM 88 Fellow Travellers the many young missionaries, and also those in other pa'ts of Egypt whom I did not meet; and by their prayers and their gifts may they support this work more and more generously. e m eet; they XV A X7NIVEESITY WHEBB "THE SUN DO MOVE" This university is in Cairo, and it is the largest in the world. Harvard and Yale, Ox- ford and Cambridge, even Berlin and Halle, must yield the palm for numbers to the uni- versity of El Azhar in the land of the Pharaohs. During a recent visit to Cairo I went through this university, accompanied by a newly ar- rived missionary, and with a fair Cairo Chris- tian Endeavorer for guide. Let me try to take my readers there to-day. We started from the substantial and commodi- ous mission house of the United Presbyterian Board in an open carriage driven by a most irascible Arab " cabby." While in the broader streets, where he had room enough to flourish and crack his whip to his heart's content, he uttered no expletives; but soon he turned into a narrow street in the native quarter, and then into a still narrower one with overhanging booths on each side, where the butcher and fez-maker, the barber and the potato-seller, were plying their trade in the broad glare of day. Then into a still narrower street he turned, where two people I t 90 Fellow Travellers joining hands could touch the walls on each side. ?, 3 A ragged camel with a huge bundle of brush fire-wood blocked our Jehu's way for a mo- ment, and he cried out in classic Arabic, as he shook his fist at the offending camel-driver, "Get out of the way, you dog, you son of a dog, you grandson of a dog." We looked to see the camel-driver square off at his antagonist in true Anglo-Saxon style. He did notiiing of the sort, but simply hurled back some equally offensive epithets, and pro- peeded placidly on his way. Then came a donkey boy, athwart the road, the hair of his gray donkey beautifully tat- tooed with all sorts of geometrical figures. Our driver took special umbrage at the pre- sumption of a donkey-boy in blocking his way, and cried out, " May your eyes be blasted, and may your mother go blind, and your grand- mother, and all your relatives ; out of the way, you pig." The donkey-boy gave him back as good as he sent, or as bad, rather ; and after this vituperative fusillade was over we edged our way a few paces nearer the mosque for which we were bound. Such cries as these, many of them too vile for translation, are echo- ing all over the city of the caliphs, from dawn to dusk, from every alley and court. At length our driver could go no further. li' ■^-**vi»*^-^c- i*.'^ a^B^^^&lw^^Wri*^***^^^'^^*''*"'- =S^^--^ Mi. ii B> i|l i i iliiimi l i4., |i | H BH i H'il ' AJ i j i n iiii w iw wi.J'U ||BI 1W| .' < . "mj n n- w wiw A University 9» *r, in 9n.of pro- on a ntted Intel- mors, rhioh ; the nd of f the ; lec- 38. ^here lered d by took were , and ining istra- 'I > 01 A University 93 tions of another sort from Christian Endeavor audiences in different lands, but it was my first experienue of such vigorous expressions of dis- approval. Not being aware of having com- mitted any offence worthy of such emphatic condemnation, I asked my fair guide what it all meant. She said we were taken for English people, and that the university students bore a grudge against us, because the English author- ities, on the appearance of the cholera and the finding of some dead bodies within the uni- versity, had insisted, most wisely, on some san- itary measures, on the cleansing of the Augean stable, and the closing of some portions of the university. Our ru£9ed feelings were soothed by this explanation, since we felt that, like so many better men before us, we were hissed in a good cause. . So we passed on through room after room of this vast mosque. In every one was the same sort of groups of red-fezzed, squatting figures, boisterously conning their books. What is studied in this strange university, do you ask? The question can be answered in two words,— "The Koran." To be sure, the Arabic language, grammar, rhetoric, lo^ic, and even jurisprudence, all have their place here, but only that the Koran may be understood more completely. Everything for the Moham- medan centres around this book, which has so 94 Fellow Travellers mightily affected the destiny of millions of our fellow mortals. In the Bohools of lower grade, too, the Koran is the one object of study. The boy, after learning to read, learns the first chapter by heart, and then the last, and then the last but one, and so on in reverse order. " Although the language is often difficult and obscure, no explanations are given, so that the boy who knows the whole book by heart usually under- stands but little of it. As soon as the boy has learned the whole of the Koran, his education is finished ; and the completion of his studies is commemorated by the celebration of tho Khatnich, a family festival, to which the school- master is invited." Even in the highest univers'^y of all, which I have described, no science, no natural history, no mathematics, is studied. "The sun do move," is still the belief of the devout Mussul- man. For aught I know, he still thinks the earth rests on a huge turtle, ytiih a vast canopy of brass overhead. The power of electricity is still conjurer's magic to him, and the Koran is the beginning and end of his education. After all, in spite of this superstition, igno- rance, and density, is there not a lesson here for Western Christians? The faith of Islam is still a mighty factor in the world to be reck- oned with. It rules the lives of untold mil- A University H lions. A Mohammedan convert to Christianity 18 the rarest of converts. Why? Because he knows his sacred book. It is all in all to him. How may we make more steadfast, faithful Christians ? Let us take a leaf from the history ot the Moslem ; study our sacred Book as he studies the false prophet. Our Bible will not displace or dispute true science, but it alone will make stalwart Christians. "'^lS®^^S^!|*''" XVI CONCERNING MANY THINGS ON SEA AND SHOBE I AM writing at Ahmednuggur, in western India ; and, as I write, the firing of big guns, and tlie rattle of musketry, and the blare of brass bands from the British parade-ground, re- mind me that it is the first day of the year, while the hideous din of a Hindu wedding that is taking place under my window forcibly tells me that I am in a heathen land. But through the open window with the early morning light comes the sweet, cool air of an Indian winter's morning, a morning like our rarest days in June, reminding me that, what- ever the din of war or of heathenism, the atmos- phere of God still envelops this old world. " God' in his heaven ; All's right with the world." After leaving the Christian Endeavorers of Cairo we steamed through the Suez Canal, and down the hot Red Sea for five days, and then across the Indian Ocean for five days more, in the teeth of a strong northeast monsoon, which somewhat delayed our good ship. I use the plural " we " with the understand- ■* ^jFgyJHi aiMMil l iW IM M liaiM Wa^ i i M) JM g^ g Things on Sea and Shore 97 ing that you are all taking the journey with me, though as a matter of fact it is only the , singular and melancholy "I" that embarked, and one ticket answers for us all. The travel- ling companion of many voyages could not go with me on this long journey ; so that in my loneliness I make the more of your imaginary companionship. However, there were on the Valetta no less than ten Christian Endeavorers, (where will you not find Christian Endeavorers in these days ?) and we had a delightful meet- ing on the Sunday evening of our voyage on the Red Sea. Two of the Endeavorers were from Illinois, one from Ohio, one from Missouri, two from Canada, two from Australia, one from Massa- chusetts, and one from England,— a cosmopoli- tan Endeavor meeting, you see. Several were coming as missionaries to India and Ceylon. Sunday noon, December 27, in the broiling heat of Indian midday we landed at Bombay. Sad indeed is the condition of this great city, the second city in population in the British Empire. One hundred cases a day of bubonic plague (the old Black Death that depopulated London in tho seventeenth century) ; nearly as many deaths; little disinfecting fire? burning on the sidewalk before many of the houses, showing that death is within; the burning ghats blazing night and day; one hundred m. ■n 98 Fellow Travellers I bodies waiting for cremation at a stDgle creira> tory ; peopio fleeing from the city by the ten thousand by every railway ; — «uch, in a sen- . tence, is tfa^ story of the great plagae of 1896- 97. These vords have acquired a new significance to me of late : " There shall no evil befall thee, neithei shall any plague come nigh thy dwelling." Three hours after landing I preached in the beautiful Scotch church ; and a little later the same evening I spoke to the Endeavorers of the American mission church. Connected wich this church are really five societies : one general society for the church, and four Junior socie* ties for the boys and girls of the schools. All flourish under the kindly care of Mr. and Mrs. Hume. On account of the plague the public Chris- tian Endeavor meetings which had been planned had to be given up, as the physicians advised against all general gatherings, and my stay in Bombay was shortened to less than two days. From Bombay to Poonah is a single night's riue by train, and here I was the guest of Mr. Robert Wilder, whom many of you remember with great s^ection for the missionary inspira- tion he brought to many of our early conven- tiouo. He is doing a magnificent work for the students of India. .. 4^ irifr'af irt'irifti i ...j.^--:.'-.:^.. ' ,i^-^^.^:^^-4u~^\-:^:...^....,.^.^^ ^ ^y- ^ ^-^^^^^^ ^ ^ ^ gle crerra* >y the tea iu a sen< , s of 1896- gnificance ivil befall nigh thy [led in the ) later the rers of the Qted with ne general lior socie- ools. All . and Mrs. )lic Chris- n planned 18 advised ay stay in vo days. ;le night's 3st of Mr. remember y inspira- y conven- rk for the /*?«W^v*J'SS!raj45^aj^ Things on Sea and Shore 99 The address was given in the Soldiers' Home of Poonah, under the auspices of the Foonah Christian Endeavor society, of which Mr. Reed, the earnest chaplain of the post, is the presi- dent. After the address two red-coated soldiers lingered to talk about their souls' salvation with Dr. Grattan Guinness, who was also present. It was a most affecting scene. We all knelt down on the floor, half a dozen soldiers, Dr. Guinness, Mr. Wilder, Mr. Reed, and myself. Some earnest prayers were offered for the two wavering ones. They were urged to commit themselves to Christ. At length, after a long pause, one of them began to sing upon his knees, with bowed head and in a trembling voice : « Lord Jesus, I long to be perfectly whole ; I want thee forever to dwell in my soul ; Break down every idol, cast out every foe ; Now wash me, and I shall be whiter than snow." Then the other soldier offered a broken, earnest prayer, and both rose from the^r knees, saved men, I trust. Mr. McBain, a noble officer, ** the father of his regiment," on whose breast gleams more than one medal nion in battle for his country, is the secretary of this society. ^MPil XVII A PLAGUE-STRICKEN CITY It is difficult for people who have not seen the plague face to face, to realize that the hor- rors of the scourge of the Middle Ages are possible in this year of our Lord. Where are our doctors ? what are our sani- tary engineers doing? what has become of the plumber, with his traps and drains and cut-offs and lengthy bills,— that all these guardians of the public health should allow so terrible an outbreak of violent disease to half depopulate one of Lhe greatest cities of the world, and spread possible contagion to the four quarters of the globe ? People looked for such periodical outbreaks in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, but we pityingly and patronizingly speak of those days as the " dark ages " of sanitary science, when plumbers were an unknown quantity, and medicine was but little removed from the pow- dered snails and pellets of medicated frogs' eyes which the doctors of China affect to-day. But this is the incteenth century, and its waning half-decade at that ; this is the age of lymphs and serum and microbe-destroyers and .100 ' S i h i rn i ■t>>iv«iiriiifiiii-iijiiMitti-iitirai A Plague-Stricken City loi I not seen t the hor- Ages are our sani- me of the id cut-offs irdians of trrible an epopulate orld, and ' quarters }utbreakB uries, but of those r science, ntity, and the pow- rogs' eyes ay- ', and its he age of )yerB and bacteria-fighters ; this is the age of Jenner and Pasteur and Koch ; and yet, in the presence of such apestilence as that from which Bombay is suffering, the doctors are at their wits' end, and we might apparently as well be back in the cen- tury of Daniel Defoe. Bombay is the second, city in size in the Brit- ish Empire. Its nearly one million of inhabit- ants places it before Glasgow, Liverpool, Man- chester, and Melbourne, and next to London itself in population. Moreover, it is a city not only great in size, but great in commercial im- portance, in influence and enterprise. It is the " Eye of India." Some of the most imposing buildings in the world are found here. The Victoria Railway Station, for instance, is prob- ably the most magnificent building of its kind on the planet. Euston, St. Pancras, the great station at Frankfort on- the Main, the Grajd Central on Forty-Second Street, and even the splendid Union Terminal at St. Louis, must hide their diminished beads before this queen of railway stations, the Victoria. So also the university, the post-oflBce, the great hospitals, and the new municipal build- ings can hold their own when compared with those of any European or American city. Moreover, Bombay is probably one of the most picturesque as well as one of the most cosmopoUtiin cities on the face of the globe. 1 '■ «? ii |g» j ii, - 102 Fellow Travellers The Eoropean and the Asiatic, the ruling na< tion and the subject races, '* plain " and colored, black and white, and all the shades of tan and brown, jostle one another in the streets of Bom- bay as in no other city in the world. Here, in a short walk of a quarter of a mile, you see the dignified Moslem with his long puggaree (just the length of his final winding sheet) wound around his head into a most be- coming turban. You see the mild-eyed, hand- some, high-caste Brahman with his orange-and- gold tope. You see the rich Parsee in his high glazed hat, surpassed in ugliness only by the Englishman's " stovepipe." You see the mod- ern belle in tailor-made gown just out from Worth's, and, side by side with her on the street, a Parsee lady, clad in graceful garments of costly silk, a single length swathing her in its ample folds from head to heels. You will see little Lord Fauntleroy with fair flaxen curls and pallid cheeks, showing that ho must soon go back to England to escape the dreaded Indian climate so fatal to children, and, not ten feet away, a little Indian lad and lass, tans hat, tans shoes, sana trousers or jacket or dress, as bare as they came from their Maker, — naked and not ashamed. Said a friend of mine to me the other day, and I believe the statement is true, "No one could get himself up in a costume so bizarre or iii 'ti iiii nT iiiiH "aff i i i f^ i "-"'itiM'^ immiift ■MMMMMiMM A Plague-Stricken City 103 fantastic as to cause an old resident of Bombay to turn his head or take even a languid interest in the passer-by." If a man should appear in Bombay with a frying-pan on his head for a hat, a big string of beads on his manly breast in lieu of a coat, a barrel-hoop dependent from each ear, a small crowbar stuck through his nose, one hip swathed in red alico and the other as nature nade it, with a pair of forty-league boots on his feet, — if, in this costume, he should parade the streets of Bombay, he would not be locked up in a lunatic asylum. By no means! He would be considered one of '*our highly es- teemed fellow-citizens." No small boy would follow him with derisive hoots; no reporter would interview him fot an extra edition; in fact, no one would look at him twice. In such a city, so diverse in its characteris- tics, so cosmopolitan in its population, has the bubonic plague broken out. It is the same fell pestilence that depopulated London. As 1666 is known as the year of the great plague in London, so 1897 will be known as the great plague year of Bombay. I reached Bombay on the 27th of December, 1896, when the plague was assuming its worst type and when the number of deaths each day was extremely large. The view of the city as one enters the beau- 104 Fellow Travellers tiful harbor is chnrming in the extreme. Afler five days on the Indian Ocean with nothitig but the scudding schools of flying-fish to break the monotony of the voyage, and five days previ- ously on the Red Sea, where the occasional glimpses of land are terrifically stern and for- bidding, one is well prepared for the palm-clad shores, and for a beautiful modern city of sub- stantial business blocks, whose streets are lined with noble, spreading banyan -trees. From a distance it looks like anything but a plague-stricken city, it must be confessed. Life and not death seems to have its home here. But one cannot be long on shore without feel- ing the depression of a place over which the angel of destruction is hovering. Everywhere I saw evidences of his presence. The closed shops, the half-deserted streets, the absence of W'^dding and festive processions, which usually at this time of year make Bombay a perfect kaleidoscope of life and color, all proclaim that something is wrong. '^' But there are more tangible signs of pesti- lence. Here is a hovel from whose roof all the tiles have been torn off to let in the blessed, purifying sunlight upon some dark, disease- breeding hole. In front of a dozen houses in tb3 next street through which we pass are little disinfecting fires burning, showing that the plague has come near that dwelling and perhaps .■^^x.:{,y:,:::adi::AiiiiiLiii,miMhS^^iiA^^^!^4.''^ A Plague-Stricken City 105 claimed half its occupants for its own. Hun- dreds of these little sidewalk fires are burning all over the city, pointing out the infected houses to the pnsser-by. They are built of short sticks of hard Tt ood, on which is sprinkled an abundant supply of sulphur. Of what value this can be, only the city fathers of Bom- bay know. The fumes cannot reach the houses with any degree of effectiveness, and, though they may disinfect the air to a slight degree and thus benefit the passing traveller, the benefit must be nearly infinitesimal. But other and more effective means are era- ployed. Whenever an infected house is dis- covered it is visited by a squad of municipal officers; the furniture is cleared out, the bed- ding is burned, and the interior is thoroughly whitewashed. In ii.any cases, too, the tiles are torn off the roof to let in the purifying sun. One of the most effective measures yet de- vised is the cutting off of the water-supply from the poorer houses of the infected district. In the dark and noisome passageways where hun- dreds of thousands of these people live, in abodes little bigger than underground drains, the free supply of city water has been a bane rather than a boon. The taps were always running or drip- ping, and earthen floors were always damp and soaked with filth, forming a very hotbed for disease. Of' course the people objected to the mmmsr" 11 106 Fellow Trav Hers cutting off of their water supply, and deep and loud were the grunts and growls against this interference with their rights, even ♦,hough they had only to go out into the street to draw water from the ever-flowing pipes. But .the author- ities persisted, and this fruitful source of dis- ease has been removed. Another plan, tried to a larger extent, and to a degree successful, is the segregation of plague- utricken households. But there is fierce and bitter opposition on the part of many of the . nativbs to the idea of segregation. All sorts of * stories are rife among them as to the object of the authorities. Some even think that their hearts will be plucked out and made into charms by which the foreign doctors hope to conjure away the plague. " Another scheme has been proposed, but as yet has found very little favor : it is to draw a cordon around the infected city, to station troops all along the line, and to allow no one from Bombay to go beyond this boundary. It is argued, and with a great deal of reason, that this would only intensify the pestilence in the spots already infected, would create an uncon- trollable panic among those who could not get away, and would almost doom the city to de- struction. The causes to which the more ignorant of the population ascribe the plague are various; in MK iiii l li rt" ! !' ! " • i n iii V I ' '•" ■ ■p'f »'-'"^ - "^ - A Plague-Stricken City 107 leep and inst this ugh they iw water 3 author- e of dis- it, and to f plague- erce and y of the 1 sorts of act of the )ir hearts barms by ure away d, but as to draw a station iw no one dary. It ison, that ice in the an u neon- id not get ity to de- ant of the irious; in fact, ultnost every cause except the right one, the filth and unsanitary condition of their city, is assigned. Some ascribe it to the malevolence of their deities, and others to the unfortunate conjunction of the stars, while still others, moGt curiously, have laid the burden upon the af;ed shoulders of Queen Victoria. A few months ago. her beautiful Jubilee statue was defaced by some miscreants with a liberal coating of tar. This outrage was deplored by all well-meaning people, and was denounced in the native as well as in the English papers. But many of the people believe that the apologies rendered at the time were not sufBcient, and that now the old queen is visiting her wrath upon the city that defiled her image. A friend of mine engaged in zenana work was refused admission one day by some 01 thtf women who before had always heartily wel- comed her. When she came to learn the cause, she found that it was because she was supposed to be a spy of the English govern- ment in the service of the queen, who had come to ferret out the misdemeanors of the people and to punish with the plague any murmuring against her gentle sway. It can readily be imagined that business is suffering terribly and that many industries are almost at a standstill. Master-workmen cannot induce laborers to enter their employ. Cloth- MMntKiTMHiiHIPnBR' . io8 Fellow Travellers iA ing housea and shoemakers' bliopa are deserted by the wnrknieii. Many factories have had to close thci-' doors, and in every branch of life the effect of the pestilence is felt. The gov- ernmeut has been compelled to issue very stringent orders concerning the civil servants, threatening them with expulsion and with loss of pension if they yield to the prevailing panic and leave the city. One of the results of the plague is strange indeed. Litigation has come almost to a standstill. Case after case is called, we are told, only to disclose the fact that parties or witnesses are not forthcoming. It would appear that the judges are sitting rather for the sake of setting an example than for the sake of the work they can get through. But unless matters mend, says The Pioneer^ they will abso- lutely be at the end of their business and the sit- ti\ig will be closed by the force of circumstances. In spite of all efforts and precautions, the plague has increased in the number of its victims and in the mortality of those attacked, and the authorities seem utterly unable to cope with the det'vroyer. Medical science is baffled, and sanitary experts appear to be of little avail. It is not to be wondered at that all sorts of quacks and nostrum-venders should come to the fore at such a time as this, and many of the remedies are of an unearthly and immaterial sort. B'akirs promise that if due reverence is m^mmmii»siMmM»img)!Wx - A Plague-Stricken City 109 paid to the divinities they worship, the plague will soou disappear, aud grave aunouucements to this effect are frequently made in the daily papers. Not only the native papers but the English journals contain many strange an- uouucementa in these days. Here is one copied verbatim from the leading Bombay daily, printed therein without comment or re- flection of any kind : — *' Pandit Swaroopdas telegraphs to us from Shikarpore : I undertake to free Bombay of its plague, if goat-flesh, fish, and liquor are supplied to me for sacrificial purposes in quantities suffi- cieut to equal, approximately, a day's consump- tion in Bombay. Further condition is that no slaughter of larger animals should take place on the day the sacrifice is offered. I am ready to leave for Bombay on invitation. I require neither remuneration nor travelling expenses." Many other proposals to pacify the enraged deities have been published, but, so far as I know, the city authorities have not seen fit to adopt these means to secure immunity from the plague. It can be well imagined that the signs of death are numerous in every direction. On the day of my arrival in Bombay no less than ten funerals passed the house of the friend with whom I was staying, and it was mournful in the extreme to hear the wails of the afQicted, ■g V-A . iw u tiKi xMKstxmam •vtr.K'fnn"* no Fellow Travellers and the still more dreadful noises of the native musicians who often acconipany a funeial train. Sometimes these procession,? bear the poor body to its last resting-place in the middle of the night, and it is weird and melancholy in the last degree to awake at two o'clock in the morn- ing, perhaps, to the horrid din of a funeral pro- cession, and to hear the monotonous refrain of the bearers, •• Ram, Ram, Sachha I " ( " Ram is true ! " ) repeated over and over and over again. If a Mohammedan is being borne to his last resting-place, the unchanging cry of the mourn- ers and the bearers is, " There is one God, and Mohammed is his prophet." Busy indeed are these days at the various burning-ghats of the city. As we drove, one evening, on one of the principal streets behind a high wall we could see a brilliant flame shoot- ing upward and illumining the sky above and the blank wall beyond. This was one of the burning-ghats where the Hindu dead are cre- mated, and, looking through the open doorway, we could see scores of lurid fires licking up the bodies placed between the glowing logs. The sticks of wood which are used for cremation purposes are about six feet long. Of these a platform is built some four feet broad and two feet high. Upon this platform the dead body is placed; other logs are piled upon it; and pieces of sandal-wood and other fragrant woods in of the native funeial train, the poor body diddle of the choly in the : in the morn* i funeral pro- )U8 refrain of " ( " Ram is id over again, ne to his last >f the mourn- >ne God, and ) the various e drove, one greets behind i flame shoot- cy above and B one of the lead are ere- )en doorway, eking up the J logs. The >r cremation Of these a oad and two le dead body pon it; and grant woods A Plague-Stricken City 1 1 1 are added to the pile. Sacred passages from holy books are read by the officiating priests ; the nearest relative then walks three times lound the funeral pile, and applies the torch, and in about two hours nothing but a handful of ashes tells of the father or mother or child that was borne within the ghnt. More than a hundred bodies, I was assured, were waiting for cremation at one of these burning-ghats in a single day. The vultures, too, in Bombay are particularly busy during this dreadful epidemic. As is well known, the Parsees are a numerous and in- fluential sect in Bombay. They are sometimes called '♦ the Yankees of the Orient," because of their ability to get ou in the world. They neither bury their dead nor burn them, since both Are and earth are sacred to their religion. So they give them to the vultures by exposing ^hem on the Towers of Silence. It is a most grewsome. and melancholy spectacle to see these horrid birds of prey awaiting their victims. The towers, large structures of stone and cement, are on Malabar Hill, one of the most beautiful parts of Bombay, and are approached by wind- ing roads through lovely gardens. These towers are about ninety feet in di- ameter and fifteen or twenty feet high. On the edge of the towers, often sitting as closely to- gether as they can be packed, are the vultures, m ,-i'- i"{'-%i. ii'ii"i«ii«in*il~«- 112 Fellow Travellers i • i ■ ■ waiting witlt horrid impatience for the next victim that shall be given to their ravenous beuks and claws. Up the long winding road come the mourners, chanting funeral prayers ; then follows a man leading a white dog, the emblem of faithfulness; then come a number of priests and the relatives of the family, two and two, holding a white handkerchief between them, which indicates that a bond of sympathy draws them together. When they reach the house of prayer, the mourners enter and engage in prayer while the corpse is borne into the Tower of Silence. The body is exposed naked on a platform erected on the inside, which can- not be seen by spectators without. The mo- ment the bearers withdraw, the hungry vul- tures swoop down upon the corpse, and m ten minutes nothing but the skeleton rem .ins, picked clean of every particle of flesh. For two or three weeks the skeleton is allowed to remain there, when it is thrown into a common pit beneath, with tens of thousands of its name- less companions. Some of these are of high degree, and some of low, but death, the great Leveller, snakes no distinction in the Parsee Tower of Silence. The following grim paragraph concerning the vultures and their dreadful business I have just cut from a Bombay paper. It shows as nothing else can do how soon people will get T 1 for the next leir ravenous wiiidiag road eral prayers; Iiite dog, the me a number le family, two ;hief between of sympathy ey reach the 3r and engage >rne into the xposed naked e, which can- iit. The mo- hungry vul- 3e, and m ten ton rem .ins, f flesh. For is allowed to ito a common s of its name- are of high ith, the great a. the Parsee 1 concerning isiness I have It shows as )ople will get A Plague-Stricken City 113 used to the direst calamities and the most grew- Bome details, so that they become a matter of commonplace and everyday comment. "On inquiries regarding vultures and their ability to consume the twelve or thirteen bodies of Parsees taken on an average to the Towers of Silence daily, the Secretary to the Parsee Panchayet has informed the representative of a Bombay paper that the number of vultures has considerably increased of late, and that there is not any truth in the statement that bodies re- main unconsumed and are thrown over in the big pit in the middle of the Towers. The fact was, he stated, that in ordinary times the flock of vultures did not subsist on the three or four bodies that were brought in, but soared away to their chief roosting-place and gorged on an- imal and other food obtainable there. Now they have, by instinct, flocked to the Towers of Silence, and no complaint about thpir being slack in the work of despatching the dead bodies has been made." One of the most pathetic sights during these terrible days in Bombay is that of the thou- sands of poor people who are attempting to flee the city. On the day I left Bombay by the Great Indian Peninsula Route, twelve thousand people, by two lines of road alone, had joined the panic-stricken exodus. The railway sta- tions and all the streets and open spaces in . ■ij.fm fc ai i t iijj) I.. ii Vi#rt» l >W.Wi l tl7i i aWil« i 114 Fellow Travellers ! t '.vt';''"'i m the vicinity were crowded with squatting fig- ures in white cloths, waiting for a chance to board a third-class railway compartment and thus leave the infected precincts. Huddled together in all sorts of heaps of humanity, in the dead of night as well as in the broad glare of day, were these waiting, frightened throngs. The trains were running in two sections, and all the third-class compart- ments were crowded to suffocation. Thou- sands of others left by sea or by the carriage roads, and already it is thought that nearly half the population has shaken the dust of Bombay from its feet and turned its face country ward. The exodus is estimated all the way from two hundred thousand to four hundred thousand, and probably the latter number is more nearly correct. Not all those who try to escape reach the promised land safely, for almost every day, it is said, some corpses are taken out of the trains, and others live only long enough to reach Poonah or Ahmednuggur or some other port of hoped-for safety, and there yield to the destroyer whose seeds of death have be ^n im- planted in their systems. Altogether, the sight of a plague-stricken city is sad beyond expression, and the sympathy of the 'nivilized world has not been expended in vain upon the " Eye of India," so sadly and grievously afflicted. squatting fig- r a chance to ipartment and ts of heaps of as well as in these waiting, were running -class conipart- oation. Thou- ty the carriage hat nearly half ust of Bombay i country ward. way from two Ired thousand, is more nearly ;o escape reach lost every day, :en out of the ng enough to or some other ire yield to the have be >n im- le-stricken city le sympathy of a expended in ' so sadly and GONOEBNINO A DELIGHTFUL BXPEBIBNOB To-day, my fellow travellers, let us go to Sirur on a personally conducted visit to the En- deavorers of this enterprising mission station. Sirur, you must know, is a station of the American Board in the Mahratta country, about one hundred and fifty miles from Bombay. We go to Poonah by rail, and there we must take a tonga, drawn by tough little Deccan horses, for Sirur, forty-one miles away. We start before daylight to avoid the dreadful heat of midday. Our tonga wallah unmercifully whips up his raw-boned little stags, starved by the faruino like many another animal, four-footed and two- footed. As we do not know the Mahrati word for " stop," all our expostulations are in vain. It is a most fascinating ride of forty-one miles in the cool of the lovely Indian winter morning ; past queer little villages of mud and straw, rAvarming with human life ; past gro- tesquo Hindu temples filled with hideous ob- scene gods ; under spreading banyan-trees, whose branches are musical with birds of gor- geous plumage. 116 f-;^;?."..«- .ii i aaC'J« li itfn ! l«t:iitjijirjW» « Wft i >'rp'ri' ' f^»wi»>»*''»^ ii6 Fellow Travellers P-l '|: But. I linve not time to describe the ride, for I want to introduce you at once to your fellow Endeavorers. Here they are drawn up before the mission bungalow of Sirur, which we reach before noon. The girls are in bright red cloths or graceful white tunics trimmed with red, the boys in nondescript garments, but all clothed in some way, and thus showing at first glance their difference from the heathen children, who are clad chiefly in an expansive smile. Two great banyan-trees were festooned and arched over with bunting, thus forming a sort of triumphal arch in our honor, while several Christian Endeavor banners and a hearty Christian Endeavor song as we drove up com- pleted the welcome. Mr. and Mrs. Winsor, the missionaries in charge, awaited us on the shady veranda of the bungalow, and at once made us feel that, we were at home. After the dust of travel had been disposed of, and breakfast as well, for breakfast in this sunny land comes anywhere between nine and noon, we visited the excellent boys' school, where some capital drawings were displayed ; and the girls' school, where the pretty black- eyed damsels recited with great spirit a dia- logue for our benefit, and went through .tome excellent calisthenic exercises. Then we went to the pleasant mission church, which was u .,-.♦ p. — „ — » — m»t * i>. m i m- » *^ .i ■ i i'. i 'i ■ W ' j i> .it9jiiiwig ' .w»wMJj.gg * A Delightful Experience \ 1 7 e ride, for lur fellow up before I we reach red cloths ;h red, the II clothed Tst glance dren, who • )oned and ling a sort ile several a hearty e up com- onaries in oranda of lel that, we I disposed ast in this 1 nine and 'b' school, displayed ; tty black- irit a dia- )ugh .iome n we went ^hich was crowded to the doors with Christians, while half-naked heathen Hindus thronged the doors and windows. Some of the non-Christians too, were not afraid to come within the doors ; among them, the Museulman chief of the whole district, who told me afterward that he rejoiced that I had come, that '*we all worship the same God," etc., while he emphasized his friendliness by sending a present of fruit anu cake to the mis- sion bungalow. Evidently Mohammedanism is a different thing under British rule in India from what it is in bloody Turkey. Here its talons ar J clipped and its beak is broken. Most hearty was the welcome that was given to Christian Endeavor at this meeting. We were sung to, and spoken at, and garlanded, and rubbed with rose-water. According to the beautiful Mahratta custom, a heavy garland of beautiful white flowers like tuberoses was hung around our necks, a wristlet of flowers was put upon each wrist, a few drops of the precious attar of roses were rubbed on the back of each hand, and a g^reen leaf containing the famous betelnut was given us to chew. Then an ad* dress was made by " Dr. Clark Sahib,*' and translated by Mr. Winsor. The climax of the service of welcome was reached, when a beauti- ful orange-red, high-caste Brahman's hat was presented to your representative by the pastor i il 'I j I' i 118 Fellow Travellers of the church. In a flowery and poettc speech, he in eflfect said that every casket sliould have a cover, and, as the hat was the cover to the brain, they gave me this Brahman's tile, that I might keep within my brain pleasant impres- sions of the visit to Sirur. Then the formal meeting was over, and we shook hands and " salaamed " in the most pro- fuse and Oriental style. After this, four moth- ers with their little new babies came up asking that "Clark Sahib" would give them names. What could I do but comply with this gracious request? Here are the names that they will bear : — Harriet Clark Lasomita Naoaya. Maude Williston Hanamant Zoteba. Edward Laxaman Damaji. John Willis Anandra Limbaji. Afterward another mother asked me to name her little boy. What better could I do than call him William Shaw Madawarow Amolik ? I gave each of the babies a junior Christian Endeavor badge, and the mothers and fathers seemed much delighted with the names. Some of these mothers have most interest- ing histories. Maude Williston Hanamant's mother, for instance, was sold by her grand- father to the authorities of the temple of the n m ^fS ff . 'i SW ' . * ;" '* -y"^.S ** * >' ^ •avM^ poetic speech, et sliould have 3 cover to the in's tile, that I sasant impres* over, and we the most pro- liis, four moth- ivae up asking them names. I this gracious hat they will AGAYA. r ZOTEBA. iJI. i me to name Id I do than Amolik ? lior Christian 3 and fathers anies. aost interest- Hanamant's r her grand> ample of the A Delightful Experience 119 most obscene god, to be brought up in all the nameless horrors of a Nautch girl's life. With great di£Bculty she was rescued by the mission- aries ; she has grown up to be a beautiful, pure Christian woman, and is now the wife of one of the most honored teachers in the mission schools. I know a little six-year old boy who some- times prays, " Dear Jesus, bless dear grandpa and grandma, and help them to grow up to be good men and women." I can only pray that these babies may " grow up to be good men and women," and good Christian Endeavorers like their namesakes. I have described this meeting somewhat at length, because in its iteartiness it is typical of many another welcome. I can but mention the splendid Industrial School in Sirur, in which work Mrs. Winsor is a pioneer, and the pleasant days at Ahmednuggur, an old and strong station of the American Board, the centre of a score of Christian Endeavor socie- ties, where at meeting after meeting the large church was thronged with intelligent Chris- tians. rr XIX A QUEER HOSPITAL The abundance of animal life in India is one of the things which first of all strikes the traveller. Wherever he goes, birds and beasts seem to swarm in numbers never approached in west- ern climes. He sees not simply a few imper- tinent English sparrows, whose numbers can never be diminished, even by the small boy with his gun; not simply a timid and far- sighted crow here and there, which smells the hunter's gun a mile away ; but such a variety and quantity of living creatures as arouse the untamed hunter's instinct at every turn. Bright green parrots alight on the telegiaph wires ; herds of spotted deer scamper off into the jungle as the train approaches, or perhaps, made bold by constant familiarity, they do not even lift their cottony tails and run, but graze quietly beside the railway track. Wild pea- cocks with extended tails, on every feather a brilliant painted eye, stalk lazily over the stub- ble fields as the train whizzes past. Monkeys chatter in the branches of the banyan-trees, and perform acrobatic feats for the amusement of the passer-by. , , v , 1» ^5ittr&S**-w A Queer Hospital 121 1 India is one of )8 the traveller, leasts seem to ached in west- ir a few imper- n umbers can the small boy iraid and far- lich smells the such a variety OS arouse the ry turn. 1 the telegiaph imper off into es, or perhaps, y, thoy do not run, but graze c. Wild pea- 'ery feather a over the stub- ist. Monkeys y an -trees, and imusement of The great reason, I suppoRe, for the supera- bundance of animal life in India is that the country is largely inhabited by vegetarians. The great majority of the people in India, after centuries of training, have come to regard the eating of meat with horror and disgust; and the lusty beefeaters who live in the land of John Bull or Brother Jonathan are regarded by many of the mild-eyed Hindus with a pecul- iar loathing. One result of this reverence for animal life has been the establishment in all the large cities of India of hospitals for aged and infirm animals. Here the lame, halt, p.nd blind of the animal kingdom are gathf>rcd together. Raw- boned oxen Ihut have been overworked and half starved are here tenderly cared for until they die. Spavined and wind-gnlled horses are here col- lected from their cruel owners. Mangy dogs and hnlf-starved Thomas cats; animals big and little, wild and tame, here form a happy family in the strangest menagerie that was ever seen. These queer hospitals are often very largely en- dowed by rich Hindus, who are supposed thus to please their benign deities and gain an easy entrance into heaven. It is even said that some of the stricter Hin- dus caiTy their reverence for animal life so far that they will not disturb a mosquito at his iVu'iii ii gfBMw'' i ijf: i IttB i T1iWfc»wW i ^^^ ^ ^ ^ ^^ ■ WJW » i i r iiii Jii i »ri i i7 *a "ijfit'Vjiihi'Tiiiiiw'tl'iiJiiM^ .Jba 122 Fellow Travellers evening meal, or interfere with certain crea- tures, not mentioned in polite society or num- bered in the census, when they are foraging for their daily blood pudding. It is gravely asserted that in one city a man is hired for a small salary to furnish meat and drink for the fleas that are turned loose upon him, and that he not only earns his daily bread in this way, but cultivates the grace of p?>tience at the same time. This regard for animals, many of which are supposed to be incarnations of some special deity, is particularly shown at some of the fa- mous temples of India. For instance, when on a recent Christian Endeavor pilgrimage to Bena- res, I visited in the intervals between the meet- ings the famous Monkey Temple. Swarms of little grinning parodies of men surrounded me as soon as I set foot within the sacred precincts. Some large apes, aged and sedate, would ask in . a dignified way for the cakes and parched corn which every visitor is supposed to bring tliem. But at the same time a score of little fellows, younger and less dignified, would jump down upon their aged relatives and filch the tidbits out from under their very eyes. The precincts of this temple, with its hideous goddess grinning behind a screen within the holy of holies, also swarmed with other kinds of animals, gathering for the sake of receiving nmmmm th rertaiii crea- society or num- are foraging for > one city a man urnish meat and rned loose upon I his daily bread ;race of patience ly of which are )f some special some of the fa- stance, when on rimage to Bena- tween the meet- )le. Swarms of surrounded me acred precincts, lie, would ask in id parched corn . to bring tliem. )f little fellows, iild jump down filch the tidbits (vith its hideous een within the ith other kinds ke of receiving A Queer Hospital 123 the crumbs that fell from the monkeys' tables. Black and white goats nosed about with a confi- dential air of familiarity. Mongrel curs dogged our heels. Gray and black ravens perched upon the haunches of the goats, that they might get their share of good things; and altogether it was a zoological garden of tame animals such as I never saw before. "What the monkeys are to Vishnu, the sacred zebu is to Siva," we are told ; " and so the cow and bull are the objects of special worship to the Hindus ; their slaughter is a terrible crime, and to eat their flesh is loss of caste in this world and far worse in the world to come. It is a most meritorious act to dedicate bulls and cows to Siva, and to multiply around the god the living images of Nandi, the divine steed. These animals are always numerous in places sacred to this god, where they live in perfect freedom, pampered and fed by pious devotees, who teiapt their appetites with dainties put out on the doorstep in a pot, and let them wander unchecked into any shop they fancy, to help themselves to any grain or vegetables for which their souls may lust." In contrast to this care and regard for ani- mal life on the part of the heathen Hindu, the cruelty of the brutal Anglo-Saxon is sometimes brought out in hideous contrast. For instance, on a recent journey through Central India, there ^i. — r , » » » i in »«i > i i iiu l pin itfiii i' ii j| mt m i l l M l « » ii< ■ » ! ■ .i.4j'..Yt..a^»;i.i.. ,^:J^^ I . l\ 124 Fellow Travellers were on the same train with myself some private soldiers, who were taking the sama long jour- ney of twenty-four hours. For a time tliey be- guiled the tedium of the way by coaxing to their compartment in the train every poor, mangy dog which they could induce to come near them with a chickenboue or a piece of bread. Then, when the dog got within striking distance, with a heavy hockey stick they would hit him with all their might over the back or legs. I saw them break the back of one poor dog and the leg of another that went off crying with a most pitiable "ki-i-i." By this time I thought it was time to interfere, and, as few people travel in Jiis part of India except gov- ernment officials and military officers, I knew that "Tommy Atkins " would take me for one of his superior officers. So, putting my head into the compartment where the four human brutes were seated, I said to them : " You are the most cruel and cowardly meu I've ever seen in my life, to beat the poor dogs in this way. If I know of your doing anything more of this sort on this journey, I will report you to the general in command at Agra." It is needless to say that these particular •• Tommies " were cowardly as well as brutal. They said not a word, but slunk into a co? ;<. ^v ?!ping dogs that day. .,— -^ Hers yself some private > sam;3 long jour- or a time tliey be- iy by coaxing to rain every poor, I induce to come )ue or a piece of ot within Btriking stick they would over the back or back of one pour it went off crying By this time I fere, and, as few [ndia except guv- officers, I knew take me for one jutting my head the four human them : " You are leu I've ever seen og& in this way. ling more of this port you to the " It is needless Tommies " were They said not a of the compart- 'iing dogs that A Queer Hospital 125 In the same compartment with me on that journey were some high-caste Brahmans, who were equally indignant with myself over this wanton cruelty, though they did not dare to say anything to its perpetrators. I said to my- self, as they were groaning in sympathy with the wounded dogs, "What will these gentle heathen think of our vaunted Christianity, when, after nineteen centuries, we must admit that such human brutes still exist?" Such are the men that make missionary work in India mountainously difficult. It must be admitted, however, that there is an enormous amount of cruelty in this land of the Orient. To be sure, the Hindus will not take animal life, but in many cases it would be much more merciful if they wuuld do so. They will let a poor dog with broken bones and cov- ered with sores drag out a miserable existence rather than put him out of misery. They will starve their horses and underfeed their cattle for the sake of the few annas which they thus save. They will twist the tails of their bul- locks by way of urging them to greater speed, until the caudal extremities of the poor animals are broken in a dozen places. They will leave a poor, famished creature by the roadside to die of slow starvation rather than by the swift bul- let or the merciful knife. A few of these crea- tures, to be sure, find their way into the animal ■■■i w Fellow Travellers hospital, but only a few comparatively, and for the most part the animals of Christian coun* tries are as much better off as are the human being's. The religion of Christ has brought health and happiness, not only to the human race, but to the domestic animals of Christian lands as well. Then " praise ye Him," not only " kings of the earth and all people," *« young men and maid- ens, old men and children," but "beasts and all cattle, creeping things and flying fowl," *' let them praise the name of the Lord." 'f '* ^•^^■*;> • ;. Is :J- ' , - * ^ <^*'fiW?.!i!! UJti^J, VjC'**?"*^ ■*.'"^AJE %S^ ■|hiW>iim..^^j| ^ f ^ .,^ .^^ J^ >^.l>.^t i^^.Y,li,^.tn~ ,-it. rs ut not only did e together from nds of England, ited with them, aker, a most ac- preted for me at ve did not waste soon as the dust Sunday morning afternoon, and igether. Which ightful, it would t was the little les and workers "hriatiuns-Frieud in was organized sinity " is a very lat this union as )s it makes up in 8 a small empire, lest missionaries, of the claims of er harmony and misF'ons. iing C ristians of Is of England on >orting so promis- le by rail in Cen- Here and There in India 129 tral India, the capital of the native state of Riitlam, was our next stopping-i)lace. This station and others near by are under the charge of the Canadian Presbyterian Church, and a fruitful and hopeful mission it is. My kind hosts were Mr. and Mrs. Campbell, and a dozen other missionaries of the same mis- sion came together for the conference. Here is b good native society, and the promise, I be- lieve, of many more. After Rutlam our zigzag journey took us to Ajmeer, a British town surrounded by Rajpu- tana states. Here is an English society recruited from the Methodist and Scotch missions, and embracing some residents and soldiers ; and I hope before lonp to hear of many good native societies in the Scotch mission churches, which are strong in all this region. There are some native Epworth Leagues in this vicinity ; but they do not unite with us in our Christian Endeavor services, I am sorry to say. While in Ajmeer, the guest of the kindest of hosts, Mr. and Mrs. De Souza, I met Miss Mary Murray, one of the three Murray sifters, for- merly of Switzerland, but now of India, but always and everywhere of Christian Endeavor. This, I feel, is but a dry and meagre account of a week's wanderings, during which I have M mmmmmmmm i pi'. '>'Ia; t m 3.1 !■ 130 Fellow Travellers usually travelled all night and spoken two or three times every day,— a busy life, you see, which does not give me much time for chatting on paper with you or any other friends. How I wish I had time and room to put in some graphic touches to tell of the picturesque scenes that make this hard journey one of un- flagging interest ! ' I would tell you, for instance, of the wretched beggars, made by the awful famine now raging in India; of the hundreds of skinny hands stretched out for a handful of corn by hungry mortals along the roadside, sometimes huddled together as thick as they can squat. I would tell you of the interesting leper asylum in Harda ; of the old leper who rode by my side in the railway car for fifty miles, and hid his disease, which had eaten off most of his fingers, under the euphemism of "skin disease." Skin disease, indeed ! I would tell you of the gorgtous " durbar " or reception given by the rajah of Rutlam on the occasion of his seventeenth birthday, to which I was invited, and of the call I received next day from the Parsee regent and governor of Rutlam, and how I went off to the station behind the prancing chargers of "His Royal Highness," the rajah, attended by a military escort on white horses. Do not think, how- ever, that your correspondent will be unduly AP\ |;i ilM«i lers nd spoken two or upy life, you see, time for chatting er friends, nd room to pnt in of the picturesque journey one of un- oe, of the wretched famine now raging of skinny hands of corn by hungry lometimes huddled squat. I interesting leper leper who rode by for fifty miles, and iten off most of his i of *' skin disease." Here and There in India 131 "set up" by royal favors. His arrival and de- parture are usually on a much more humble scale. I would tell you of the jackal lullabies, by which I am frequently soothed to sleep, and es- pecially of the jackal concert one night at Aj- meer, where it seemed as if a thousand tom-cats were howling about the tent in which I slept. You see there is room for some picturesque happenings in the interstices between Christian Endeavor meetings. ;orgfcous " durbar " rajah of Rutlam on senth birthday, to : the call I received Bgent and governor b off to the station ers of "His Royal ided by a military )o not think, how- mt will be unduly i!^iPVf9HWfKyw|aM»<^i^^ii««^jja!iiiiLii«i m^iWHiw XXI CHRISTIAN ENDEAVOR IN RISTOBIO INDIA Satdrdat morning, January 9, found me in Agin; as usual, arriving at a new place long before daylight. But after a little time I found a warm welcome awaiting me in the home of Rev. J. G. Potter, of the English Baptist mis- sion. Here, too, I saw for the first time Rev. A. G. McGaw, to whom Christian Endeavor in northern India is so much indebted. Agra, you know, is the city of the Taj and of the Pearl Mosque and of the silver bathroom, and of ever so many other wonderful creations of that great architectural wizard, Shah Jehan. These have made Agra, in some respects, the most wonderful city in the world. So we stole a few hours for sight-seeing. The Agra meetings, five in all, were profitable and helpful gatherings, the friends who came from the Presbyterian mission of Furruckabad contributing not a little to their value, as did also Miss Wrigler and other members of the Baptist Zenana Mission of Agra. Several of the missionaries came on their bicycles from their homes sixty miles away. The splendid roads of India, kept in perfect repair by the 132 ii m m- ptitn^mmm ITOBIO INDIA 9, found me in lew place long tie time I found in the home of ih Baptist mis> first time Rev. in Endeavor in ted. ' the Taj and of ilver bathroom, lerfiil creations 'd, Shah Jehan. fie respects, the 1. So we stole were profitable nds who came )f Furruckabad ir value, as did lembers of the ra. Several of ' bicycles from The splendid repair by the MARBLE SCREEN IN PALACE IN DELHI wmm ■ff. l.,* <■ avi fell to i oJ Endeavor in Historic India 133 British government, are exactly fitted to the ••silent steed." So, Christian Endeavorers, when you join the missionary forces of India, take your Columbias, or your Victors, or what- ever may be "the very best wheel in the world,"— the one you ride, I mean. Two of the Agra meetings were held in the Havelock Baptist Chapel, a place of sacred interest to me, for this church was founded more than sixty years ago, by the great Chris- tian soldier and hero. Sir Henry Havelock, when he was stationed at Agra. Here he fre- quently preached, and here, most fittingly, in this chapel called by his name, his statue looks down week by week on the assembled Christian Endeavorers. I am sure, were he alive to-day, he would be an Endeavorer of heroic mould. Delhi is scaicely second in historic interest to Agra, and every street of the old town is alive with memories of the terrible siege of the mutiny days. Here still stands the magnificent palace of the weak old Grand Mogul, who was led by his more strong-minded wives into a futUe but terribly costly resistance to British arms. Here are the walls, still standing, pierced and battered by the shot and shell which tell of those awful days. But all is peaceful now, and, looking on the eager crowd of dark faces at the Christian Endeavor meet- ings in the Baptist mission church, you would ■Mmmsmsmmi 134 Fellow Travellers V;^. have found it hard to believe that some of the most cruel deeds in all history were enacted scarcely a stoiie's throw away. For these good meetings Christian Endeavor- ers must thank Rev. S. S. Thomas and Rev. Herbert Thomas and the ladies of the Zenana mission of Delhi. One day in Delhi, one long night in the train, and in the shivery gray of a frosty morning twi- light we find ourselves in Lahore, the capital of the great province of the Punjab. Your good friend and mine, Mr. McGaw is with me now for the rest of the journey in north India. Hb is one of the most devoted, modest, and earnest of men. Now I can use the pronoun "we" without any poetic or editorial license. Lahore is not only a great political centre, but a great misfionary centre as well, especially for the American Frssbyterians. Two daj s the Endeavorers stayed together here, and, by be- ginning very early in the uiornings, managed to find room for eight Christian Endeavor meet- ings. More like a genuine Christian Endeavor con- vention was uhis than any other meeting I have yet seen in India. Delegates had come from a dozen different societies, some even from the famous Mussoorie Union in the hills, a good thirty-six hours away by rail. The atmosphere was warm and cordial, and, from the opening ^- it some of the were enacted ian Endeavor- Das and Rev. of the Zenana [it in the train, J morning twi- , the capital of ). Your good with me now th India. He 3t, and earnest ronoun "we" cense. olitical centre, well, especially Two da) s the re, and, by be- gs, managed to Sndeavor meet- Endeavor con- meeting I have id come from a even from the e hills, a good rhe atmosphere tm the opening Endeavor in Historic India 13^ devotional meeting to the solemn consecration service at the close, it was a meeting to be re- membered. Most delightful was the spirit of deep devo- tion displayed at every service. This mission has evidently had a peculiar spiritual blessing. The convention was also particularly fortu- nate in the presence of Dr. John Henry Barrows, who not only in Lahore, but in Delhi, spoke glowing and eloquent words for Christian En- deavor. You will all be glad to know that Dr. Barrows's lectures in India are most favorably received, and are doing much good. The preju- dice and misunderstanding which at first existed concerning his work have disappeared, and his eloquence and sweet Christian spirit have won their way to all hearts. How I should like to introduce you all person- ally to the Ewings, and to Mr. Velte, and Mr. Hyde, and Dr. Orbisrn, and Mrs. and Miss Stra- han of Mussoorie, and ever so many others I There were even two Juniors from Landour at the meeting. By the way, when you go to "San Francisco, '97," look for a tall, broad- shouldered, eloquen"^ delegate from India, and you will see Rev. J. C. R. Ewing, D. D., of Lahore. While we were at Lahore, the blessed rain came down from heaven upon the parched and hungry ground. Did you ever, in your dreams 136 Fellow Travellers even, imagine a starving nation ? Indm is that to-day. One hungry man excites oar sympathy at home. Here are hungry millions of the famished. For twelve good hours during the convention it rained as it had not rained for months. "It is raining gold," said a native. It saved tens of thousands of lives undoubtedly in that one province, though it was not a general rain. While the showers of blessing were descend- ii.g within our Christian Endeavor convention hall, the other showers of blessings were de- scending outside; and for both we thanked God. . Some of our gospel hymns will mean more to me hereafter than ever before,— " Lord, I hear of showers of blessing Thou art scattering full and free, Showers the thirsty land refreshing ; Let some droppings fall on me." •t Send showers of blessing, Send showers refreshing, Send us showers of blessing. Send them, Lord, we pray." , f. ■'■iiii V^: India is that oar sympathy illions of the irs during the not rained for said a native, s undoubtedly it was not a were descend- voT convention sings were de- li we thanked 1 mean more to ;ssing I free, ibhing ; me." XXII ;:x..,,„: /. .. .^ A OHBISTIAN ENDEAVOR MBETINQ IN THE TAJ MAHAL Christian Endeavor meetings have been held in all sorts of unlikely places. I once attended one in the hollow trunk of a big tree in California. I have kneeled with other Endeavorers in the contracted cabin of a Japanese steamer. I have seen the "prayer shelf " which some earnest Juniors of Turkey mounted that they might find a place for their meeting, and also the bare, hot hillside, baked in the glare of centuries of Indian sunshine, where some Juniors of western India draw near to God. But the most wonderful spot for an Endeavor meeting was the Taj Mahal, of Agra. Perhaps to say that here on the ninth of January, 1897, was held a meeting of Endeavorers, is more cor- rect than to say that it was strictly an En- deavor meeting ; but more of that later. It is not too much to say that the Taj is the most exquisite building in all the world. Archi- tects and artists, as well as common, everyday travellers like myself, admit this fact. It stands on the banks of the sacred Jumna, 137 MHM ■■■ »38 Fellow Travellers and was built by the famous Shah Jeaan as a tomb for his beloved wife Murataz. it cost twenty millions of dollars. But these figures give no idea of its real value, or of the wealth lavished upon it, until we remember that even paid labor in India at the present time costs only seven or eight cents a day, and that the Taj was built largely by forced labor for which nothing was paid. Twenty thousand men worked for twenty- two years to make this the grandest and most exquisite tomb that poor mortality ever occu- pied. , , . It is entirely of white marble, from the lowest course to the topmost pinnacle of the majestic dome, which seems to soar like a mighty bubble toward the sky. So kindly has the climate of India dealt with the Taj, that, though the year 1898 marks the quarter-millennial of its com- pletion, you would think that only two hun- dred and fifty days instead of two hundred and fifty years had passed over its spotless dome, so unstained and unmarred is it by the hand of time. .HI. You approach the Taj through a magnificent gateway of red sandstone and white marble, a building which, anywhere else in the world, would of itself be a marvel worth a thousand miles of travel to see. Just within this gate- way you find yourself at the edge of a long and M-* •riffll'iii" m h Je'uan as a itaz. It cost these figures of the wealth iber that even nt time costs and that the ibor for which d for twenty- idest and most iity ever occu- rom the lowest )f the majestic mighty bubble the climate of hough the year ial of its com- only two hun- ro hundred and )otles8 dome, so Dy the hand of h a magnificent white marble, a » in the world, jrth a thousand rithin this gate- ge of a long and Meeting in the Taj Mahal 139 lovely garden filled with orchids and roses and brilliant flowers which we never see in a tem- perate clime. Palms and orange-trees and huge banyans compete with humbler shrubs to add their beauty to the garden. Down the centre runs a long, shallow marble basin, per- haps five hundred feet in length, filled with goldfish and silverfish, while green parrots and brilliant tropical birds of a hundred sorts flash through the checkered shade and sunlight of the garden. This garden is kept in perfect condition by the British government, which fortunately now hbs possession of the Taj. At the end of this vista of perfect loveliness rises this exquisite dream in white marble, absolutely the most faultless and perfectly satisfying building in all the world. " Hushed, you advance, your gaze still fixed ; heart, soul, Full of the wonder ; drinking in its spell ': ■ '^ Of purity and mystery, its poise Magical, weird, atrial ; the ghost : . Of thought draped white — as if that Sultan's sigh Had lived in issuing from his love and grief Immense, and taken huge embodiment. Which one rash word might change from tomb to cloud." As we approach nearer, we see that what at first looked like fleokless marble is made still more beautiful by exquisite tracery of inlaid stones and gems. It is as if the jeweller's art 140 Fellow Travellers had combined with the architect's skiH to pro- duce the eighth wonder of the world. Some of the inlaid work represents passages from the Koran ; elsewhere it is in the shape of scrolls and sprays of flowers most delicately colored, a hundred gems sometimes being used in making a single rose. All this marvellous tracery is scattered over the immense building in such lavish profusion and yet such exquisite taste that you almost hold your breath in won- der. Out of the glare of the intolerable sun beat- ing down pitilessly upon the white marble we pass within the ever open portal, through an inner screen of lacelike marble, and find our- selves at the tomb itself of the beautiful queen. This is in the exact centre of the building, while at one side, and raised a little higher, is the tomb of Shah Jehan himself. Both of these tombs are sprinkled thick with inlaid jewels. « Blown tulip and closed rose, lilies and vines. All done in cunning, finished jewelry Of precious gems— jasper and lazulitc, Sardonyx, onyx, bloodstone, golden stone, Carnelian, jade, crystal and chalcedony. Turquoise and agate, and the berries and fruits Heightened with coral points and nacre lights ; One single spray set here with fivescore stones; So that this place of death is made a bower With beauteous grace of blossoms overspread j And she who loVed her garden lieth now Lapped in a garden. And all this for love t " -t «•■-:-■» !".»-»;'' '■'- Sm' k. i i ^^Hmi ii iSi i i^ i Meeting in the Taj Mahal 141 J skil- to pro- Id. ents passages I the shape of )st delicately es being used lis marvellous ense building uch exquisite reath in won- ible sun beat- ite marble we 1, through an and find our- uitifnl queen, luilding, while higher, is the Both of these laid jewels. nd vines, 7 stone, ony, !S and fruits acre lights ; core stones; a bower verspread ; 1 now for love I " In this inner tomb was the little Christian En- deavor meeting held. There were twelve or thirteen of us, — Mr. and Mrs. Potter, of the English Baptist Mission of Agra ; Mr. and Mrs. McGaw, Mr. and Mrs. Andrews, Mr. and Mrs. Bandy, Miss Bailey, Miss Forman, of the American Presbyterian Mission, who had come to Agra for the Christian Endeavor meetings ; Mrs. Mcintosh and Miss Wrigley, and other ladies of the Baptist Zenana Mission. We were all seated upon the tombs. Over- head soared the vast dome, two hundred feet above our heads. So perfect is this dome that every sound uttered within the tomb is echoed and reechoed, and echoed again, a hundred times, until it dies away iu the vast bubble. Especially are high musical tones reproduced in a most weirdly marvellous way, until you al- most think that a choir of ten thousand angels has taken up the song, and is chanting the re- frain begun on earth. No light and trivial tune or unworthy jig can here be given with good effect, but the sweet strains of some of our better popular hymns are reproduced with wonderful power. Mrs. Potter is gifted with a sweet soprano voice and under her leadership we sung, — • Steal away, steal away, steal away to Jesus." Slowly the strains of this pathetic old negro MHM 142 Fellow Travellers melody seemed to " steal away" to the roof of the gr.eat dome. Then in softer cadence they were reflected back to us. They struck the side of the great marble balloon, and came back once more, and then again and yet again, but every time distinctly and clearly, until the air was full of "steal away," "steal away," "steal away," "steal away," "to Jesus," "to Jesus," " to Jesus," " to Jesus," loud and soft and re- mote and near. The effect was indescribable, and lovely beyond measure. Then we sung " At the cross," and then all joined in repeating the Twenty-third Psalm. As some other visitors entered the Taj at that moment, and we did not wish to intrude upon them in a public place, we closed our little meeting. Though it was a Mohammedan tomb, the surroundings were not so inappropriate as one might think, for on the tomb of Murataz herself are engraved the ninety-nine names which the Moslems have for God. Over the great gate- way is written, in Persian characters, "The pure of heart shall enter the gardens of God"; and in this house of death itself is inscribed this beautiful sentiment from the Koran : " Saith Jesus (on whom be peace): 'This world is a bridge ; pass thou over it, but build not upon it. This world is one hour ; give its minutes to thy prayers ; for the rest is unseen.' " -V .ytfj^r W- t U ft iJ iM^ -» »■ . * <: * ' i Ll '' 0» " '. ^' ' i ! * Meeting in the Taj Mahal 143 to the roof of r 'jadence they ey struck the and came back yet again, but y, until the air away," "steal ," " to Jesus," id soft and re- i indescribable, Christian Endeavor meetings have been held in many a beautiful temple before, but never, I think, in such a wondrous tomb temple as the Taj Mahal. 4: ii\;'K- *i) t ■ 1," and then all y-third Psalm, the Taj at that o intrude upon >8ed our little dan tomb, the )ropriate as one Mumtaz herself anies which the the great gate- aracters, "The rdensof God"; self is inscribed Koran: "Saith This world is a build not upon ^e its minutes to een. » f» XXIII ■f ?! '?:•! •^ s. CHRISTIAN ENDEAVOR ON THE GANGES Saturday, January 17, found us at Fateh- garh, a city on the banks of the Ganges, and a sort of Mecca for me, on this Christian En- deavor pilgrimage. Here is a colony of four missionary families of the Presbyterian mission, the two Formans, a name fragrant in mission- ary annals in India, the McGaws, and the Ban dys, two of the most prominent Christian En- deavorers of India. Mr. and Mrs. Andrews, too, ran down on their wheels, a little matter of forty miles, from another station. When Sunday morning came, we all repaired, bright and early, to the mission church; and there indeed a Christian Endeavor welcome awaited us. Over the arched gateway was the word " Welcome," both in English and in Hin- dustanee. By the way, when next you come to see me at my house, you will find yourself wel- comed in the same words, in the graceful, flow- ing Persian characters, as well as in thirteen other languages, over the front porch. Within the church, too, was every outward and visible sign of the inward and spiritual greetings. The church looked like a beautiful garden, with its palms and bamboos and brilliant 144 lik' B aAMOBS US at Fiiteh- Ganges, and a Christian En- iolony of four terian mission, lat in niission- , and the Ban Christian En- ^rs. Andrews, little matter of eve all repaired, [1 church ; and lavor welcome iteway was the sh and in Hin- xt you come to d yourself wel- graceful, flow- as in thirteen porch. every outward 1 and spiritual like a beautiful )os and brilliant Endeavor on the Ganges 149 flowers of various hues, while behind the pulpit were banners and streamers with familiar mot- toes, '♦ Hind Maseh ka Howe," " India for Christ," "Masih aur Kali8Yia Kkliye," *' For Christ and the church," in the Romanized Urdu character. I begged two of the mottoes for " San Francisco, '97," so that you as well as myself might have the benefit of them. It has been my pleasant fortune to receive many greetings on your behalf, my fellow En- deiivorers, in many languages ; but I do not re- member when I have ever before received from a bard a welcome in Persian verse. To be sure, I could not understand it; and I had to beg from the poet a translation of his verses. At the same place, also, I received the gavel and block, studded with native state, rupees of silver, which are to be used in culling to order the convention at San Francisco next July. These were presented by the wide-jtwake and ever-en- terprising local union of Mussoorie, the hill station where the missionaries congregate in the summer. ^ We had two pleasant meetings in this church, and no one could ever have had so good an in- terpreter, it seems to me, as it was my good for- tune to have in Rev. John Forman, a mission- ary's son, who was born and bred in the coun- try, and haii now come back to take his father's place. Almost before the words came from my ».. *«*.w-^ ■■■i ?k: .46 Fellow Travellers lips he would take tliem up and translate them into beautiful and fluent Hindustanee without hesitation or break, so that it seemed almost like one continuous speech in two different lan- guages. O that some of the interpreters from whom I have suffered many things in many lands could have heard this brilliant feat in translation, so that they might realize what it is to enter into the spirit as well as into the mere verbal performance of an interpreter's task ! But the pleasantest day must come to an end, and so did this delightful Sunday. The next day found us pushing on to Allahabad, a great central city of India. Here are two Christian Endeavor societies, one in the Methodist and one in the Baptist church ; and two very pleas- ant meetings we had, in both of which I could use my mother tongue, and speak in the best English, or, rather, the best Americanese, I conlu nvuster. The society in the Methodist church is one of the oldest in India, and to the hospitable par- sonage of Mr. Clancy T was welcomed again, as on a previous visit. Mr. and Mrs. Clancy were away at the annual conference of their church, .but they had left some good representatives in their stead, and the reception which followed the evening address was one of the most pleas- ant of social occasions. ■UWi "t%W*^ *<$. ■ ^v . % ' #r >Ji^^^ia^»»»'**'^ mmm D translate them ttaiiee without seemed almost different Inn- .erpreters from liings in many rilliant feat in realize what it reW as into the Q interpreter's 3ome to an end, lay. The next ihabad, a great 3 two Christian Methodist and two very ploas- : which I could eak in the best Americanese, I st church is one B hospitable par- Icomed again, as [rs. Clancy were of their church, ipresentatives in which followed the most pleas- Endeavor on the Ganges 147 Benares is only three hours by rail from Al- lahabad, and here we were welcomed by the representatives of the London Missionary So- ciety, though as yet there are no Christian En- deavor societies in the sacred city. During the twenty-four hours in Benares two good meet- ings in the interest of Christian Endeavor were held. One was for the Ilindustanee Chris- tians, at which I was assisted hy another most admirable interpreter, Mr. Mookerje<3, the head master of the high school. A d/awing-room reception and meeting for all the missionaries of the station, was also held in tbd hospitable and spacious parlors of the bungalow of the London Missionary Society. A thousand thanks to my kind friends who have made these mem- orable days so profitable to the cause of Chris- tian Endeavor, — -a vote of thanks in which a million Christian Endeavorers, I am sure, will join. Is the motion carried ? I think I hear you all say, ♦' Ay." L^-T"--** 1^'^y^ '*'i™'**rft3?l*ci? in tm M 4 % XXIV AN HOUE ON THE GANGBS In some quarters the idea seems to prevail that one religion is quite as good as another ; thai. Christianity is merely a cult derived from the fathers, and largel>' a matter of heredity and environment, but Liiat Hinduism is quite as good "or India, and Buddhism for China, as Christianity for America. I should like to take Christians of this flabby, jelly-fish structure on a personally con- ducted visit to Benares, the most sacred city of all the world to the Hinius. To this city more millions of human hearts turn as to their Mecca than to any other city in the world. Here we find Hinduism in its most orthodox form— in all its loathsomeness and corruption. It is the metropolis of the Hindu faith. In all its filth and utter vileness can heathenism here be studied as nowhere else in the world. It is the most characteristic of heathen cities. Hin- duism is not distorted or exaggerated, it simply comes to its rank and poisonous flower and fruitage. Let us take one of the many boats thai, are tied to the shores of the Ganges, and float 148 MRI aiES ms to prevail d as another ; I derived from jr of heredity Luisin is quite I for China, as jtians of this jersonally con- , sacred city of To this city urn as to their in the world, most orthodox md corruption, u faith. In all eathenism here le world. It is »n cities. Hin- rated, it simply ous flower and y boats thai- are mges, and float An Hour on the Ganges 149 slowly down tlie sacred stream before the palaces and temples. First wo come to a great bathing ghat, as it is called, where hundreds of men and women are engaged in washing away the vilest character stains in the holy river. The water is foul and muddy enough, in all conscience, and would seem to leave more spots than it would cleanse ; but into it wade boldly the devout pilgrims, laving in and lapping eagerly the filthy stream. Behind the walls of the palaces which line the banks of the stream, we are told, are " multitudes of aged people, come together from all parts of India, waiting with calm, patient, ecstatic happiness the sum- mons of the Angel of Death; for he who is fortunate enough to die in Benares goes straight to glory." As we glide down the river we see many fakirs, with long, matted, rope-like locks, their bodies smeared with white ashes, looking like bleached corpses rather than healthy human beings. There is one fakir standing on one leg. How long he stands ! Two, three, five, ten minutes! Our bones ache in sympathy with his, but he is winning priceless years of glory by this act of devotion. There is another fakir doubling himself up in a most absurd and ludicrous way,— if one ha-., the heart to see the ludicrous side of things timid such surroundings. First he touches the ni-r«-r-rr ijTiiTMni iMH WM^ •riVi. 150 Fellow Travellers :i top of his crown to the soil. Then he l.-.ys himself out at full length on the dusty bank. Then he doubles himself up, as you would be- lieve only a practised acrobat could do, until his head appears between his distended legs, and his shoulder-blades bcrape the dusty soil. He is one of the preachers of this Eastern faith ; and the thought irresistibly occurs to one, What a tremendous audience could our sensational ministers {(t home draw, if they would but take lessons of this acrobatic Hindu preacher I And there is a boy of twelve or fifteen wash- ing his sins away in the same holy stream. From the top of his head, which otherwise is shaven close, hangs a long lock of black hair, — the lock by which he believes the good angel will seize him, when he is hanging over the brink of perdition, and drag him back into Paradise. Some of the pilgrims are not only using the holy water for cleansing purposes, but a kind of fuller's earth as well, in lieu of soap. They will not use soap because it contains animal fat. As we leave the river, and mount the steep and dirty steps, we come very soon to the very holy of holies of Benares, the famous temple of the awful Siva. This is called the Golden Temple, though there is very little gold about it, two of the turrets only being gilded with the precious metal. mwi. i y.n.. >wt ■tm ■sas An Hour on the Ganges \r\ Here is the very centre and essence of Hin- duism. A marble slab upon the wall tells ua that those who do not profess the Hindu re- ligion are requested not to enter the temple ; but we are allowed to go upon a neighboring house-top and look down within its dirty pre- cincts. The marble floor of the temple is ab- solutely, thick with mud and offal, the bare feet of the worshippers leaving a momentary white track upon the pavement, which the thick ooze soon covers. More than any other god, Siva, we are told, " is cruel, and exacts a bloody worship. He is the ruler of evil spirits, ghouls, and vampires, and at nightfall -he prov/ls about in their com- pany iu places of execution and where there iii-e buried dead. He is the god, too, of mad, frantic folly, who, clothed in the bloody skin of an elephant, leads the wild dance of Tandava. He is the god of the Ascetics. This fear vul sect go naked, smutty with ashes, their long matted hair twisted around their heads. Oth- ers follow hideous secret rites of blood, lust, gluttony, drunkenness, and incantations. 0th- era pose themselves in immovable attitudes till the sinews shrink and the posture becomes rigid. O ' ers tear their bodies with knives, or devour carrion or excrements." Such is the chief god of the Golden Temple of Benares, and such is the object of devoutest ^1. { ■ 1 ■■ i' i! I ■■' ;i I I 152 Fellow Travellers Hindu worship. But the Golden Templd is not the only one in Benares, by any means. There are hundreds of other little temples wedged into every conceivable nook of the holy city. Great temples claiming their worshippers by thousands; monkey temples, about which the simian caricatures of humanity scamper and grin at the spectators, for all the world as though they were on exhibition in Central Park or the Philadelphia Zoo. Another temple which every traveller visits is that of the Goddess of Plenty, the patroness of beggars. Around the doors of this temple are scores of mendicants with their bowls, waiting for the handfuls of rice which the devout worshipper is sure to throw them, while, within, the temple is filled with sacred bulls and cows, whose ordure and uncleansed filth make it extremely uninviting to sight and smell. In fact, so utterly filthy is the floor of this temple that one does not venture within, though he is freely allowed to enter, but contents himself with a glimpse from a side door. No self-re* specting American farmer would allow his burn- yard or his cow-house floor to become as filthy as this most sacred temple. But we cannot go the rounds of all these sacred spots this morning ; it would take days and weeks to " do " them thoroughly ; what we have seen shows us the genius of Hinduism, ■JX I I Hil lM il H I - U ffWr' .. empld is y means, temples ' the holy rshippers lit which mper and IS though rk or the ir visits is patroness ia temple ir bowls, hich the mi, while, bulls and ilth make tnell. In is temple ugh he is s himself fo self-re- ' his burn- ) as filthy all these take days what we linduism, An Hour on the Ganges 153 mach vaunted, widely lauded Hinduism, — the religion which some sestlietic Americans, ever itching for a new sensation, have thought might take the place of the religion of Christ, or at least take its place side by side with the faith of the lowly Nazarene. Contrast for a single moment the religion of the Bible with the religion of Benares, — the temple of the Holy Ghost with the temple of Siva, the stone bull, dirty with the dust and grease of ages, with the Christian's conception of the Lamb of God who taketh away the sins of the world. In fact, the only antidote needed to the claims of the lackadaisical toleration of all religions ns equally uplifting to the race, is an hour on the Ganges or among the temples of Benares. W ( "■ ■' ■ ri } ] ( «J>'< '4-':' XXV THE FAMINE AT SHORT RANGE I. In the lands of the Occident hunger is almost an unknown thing. To be sure, we have the perpetually hungry small boy. He is ever with us. But his hunger is of the healthy and whole- some sort, and a plate of cakes i» a panacea for all his troubles. One often sees, too, the professional beggar with the stereotyped plea of hunger and star- vation, with tlie seven small children waiting at home for the daily crust. When the seven small children are investigated, however, it is often found that they are mythical characters, and that the starvation plea is assumed as part of his stock in trade. Of course I am not saying that there is not real destitution and actual hunger found oc- casionally among the very poor in the great cities of both America and Great Britain. But these cases are so sporadic and exceptional that they give us no idea of the dreadfulness of famine. But in India to-day the famine is not a mere sentiment, not a far-away abstraction, not even a dreadful possibility, but an actual and terrible reality. IM r is almost have the ever with nd whole- inacea for al beggar ' and star- waiting at the seven ever, it is haracterd, ed as part lere is not found oc- the great b Britain, cceptional [fulness of lot a mere , not even id terrible The Famine at Short Range 155 A single hungry man or woman is a pitiable object. If such a one is found in the country districts of old England or New England, how the provisions flow in upon him ! Apples and potatoes, flour and bacon, and any quantity of the good things of life, make his heart glad ; and a thrill of horror would be felt by every one in the community if it were thought that there was a starving man at their doors. But multiply one starving man by a thou- sand, and then multiply this thousand by a thousand more, and this million by ten again, and then you have scarcely compassed the num- ber of the hungry men, women, and children in the great empire of India. Not that so great a number is starving, but all are suffering more or less from privation. But these figures can give a very faint idea of the real horrors of the situation. One must actually see the gaunt and hungry faces, the bony arms and legs from which every particle of tissue has wasted away ; one must look into the hollow eyes, and see the skeleton- like breasts on which every rib stands out like the ribs of an umbrella; one must see the pitiable hands stretched out for a handful of grain, and see the wretched recipients gulp it down with famished eagerness, ungronnd and uncooked. Then, after seeing one such throng as this, let him try to realize that he has but ,fi ^1 I ; i i i J - J ■■■ .56 Fellow Travellers seen one or two hundreds of the millions who are suffering from the pangs of hunger, and, ever after, famine becomes a real and dreadful thing to him. In many parts of India I have seen the relief worka started by the government; for, had it not been for the foresight and enterprise of the British government, the suffering would have been far worse than it is. Everywhere relief works have been opened, and, as you drive along the dusty highways, you see hundreds, and sometimes thousands, of people in the fields gathering stones, and other hundreds breaking them into small pieces for the excellent ma- cadamized roads which are found throughout India. In fact, the government has on hand in many parts of the country a stock of road ma- terial which it cannot use for years. But th« object is not so much to build roads, or to keep them in repair, as to provide work and wages for the hungry road makers. Of course when there are so many needy ones the money must be made to go as far aa possible, and no extravagant wages are paid these road-builders. The able-bodied men re- ceive two annas (two pence) for a day's work ; the women, one anna (one penny); the chil- dren, six pies (a halfpenny); and even the babies in arms, who are brought to the field of operation, though their puny little arms could The Famine at Short Range 157 not lift a pebble as big as a walnut, are entered upon the libt of famine-relief laborers, and are gravely paid at the end of the twenty-four hours one pice (one farthing) for their day's labor. Many hundreds of thousands, if not millions, are now enrolled by the government in these relief works, and the number is constantly in- creasing. No applicant, worthy or unworthy, is turned away. If only he has the passport of genuine want and hunger, he is given some- thing to do, and receives his penny at the day's end. Even in this land of cheap prices it must not be supposed that for two annas one can fare sumptuously qvery day ; but that sum will buy enough of the cheaper sort of grain to keep the wolf from tiie door, or, rather, partially to sat- isfy the intolerable craving of hunger. All our Western similes and figures of speech Bcem absolutely inadequate to the occasion. For instance, the one I have just used, of the wolf at the door, is absurdly tame. The wolf of hunger is always at the door of most of the hovels of India. The poor people never think of driving him far away. They simply " shoo " him from the door-step, as the old housewife ' would scare away the too familiar chickens that intrude upon her domain; but as for actually keeping the wolf out of sight, it is an unheard-of thing in India. Every year there !: 'i J •58 Fellow Travellers /■'■ I ia more or losa famine in some section of the country. Every yenr the crops fuil somewhere, and, though tlio wise forethought of a palernnl government, Hiid the multiplication of rnilways, and hence the ability to transport gruin swiftly from one part of the country to another, have greatly diminislied the danger and the suffer- ing, yet in the best of years many parts of India are always on famine's ragged edge. The most pathetic sight which I have wit- nessed in India was a crowd of hungry beggars that gathered one Sunday afternoon near the mis- sion bungalow of Rev. Mr. Wharton, in PTarda in the Central Provinces. Along the roadside were these dreadful skeletons, lining the path- way to the house for fully an eighth of a mile, crowded together on each side as thickly as they could " squat." Destitution and suffering were written on every face. Some doubtless were professional beggars; but even profes- sional beggars may be hungry, and the eager way in which they snatchet^ the handful of grain which we were able to give them showed that starvation was to them a very real and dreadful thing. Almost more pitiable than the human suffer- ing is that of the poor starved beasts that can- not speak for tlomselves. All over India the ♦' gharrie " horses have felt the famine most bit- terly ; the prices of grain and fodder have every- ..■^■^.■««tt» ^M j r3 t,ma ■"S^l' The Famine at Short Range i ^9 where risen enormously ; the masters are fain to eat the husks, or rather the poor and chenp grain which otherwise they would give to the beasts of labor, and often the poor horse goes hungry. Such bags of bones, such travesties of horses, such slow-moving horse-like quadrupeds, I never saw outside of this dry and thirsty land. The blows of the drivers resounding from their hol- low ribs send a throb of pity to every com- passionate heart, and one longs for a Mr. Bergh or a Mr. Angell to arise for India, and to inaugurate " the society with the long name " in every village and hamlet. The only thing that the.Hindus can think of doing to avert the famine is to pray to their rain-god for relief. Wherever the rain-god has a temple, he is this year drenched in water to remind him of the dry weather outside his temple. Sometimes, indeed, he is immersed in a tank of water, so that he may become thoroughly wet through, and thus be inclined to relieve the drought. But alas! alas! in many parts of India the heavens are still as brass, and no showers of blessing fall on the parched ground. In some places, however, the winter rains have come, and O how refreshing they are I No one outside of arid India can realize what they mean. '♦ It is raining gold," said a Hindu, as the showers began to fall in the Punjab ; " it \ • 11 i6o Fellow Travellers is raining gold " ; and so, indeed, it was. But, though the rains may come and relieve to Boiue extent the suffering, there will still be u vast amount of misery this year and next an well. Everywhere Christian hearts should be open, and Christian pockets as well, to give gener- ously to this famine-stricken people, and may the bread of wheat and corn which the people receive open their hearts to receive the Bread of life, the true bread which ame down from heaven, which if a man eat lie shall never die. i^ '^.^ti^- ™^.-**i,fe^"Wu-":, IU*^iSMI^t*6^ ^ But, some a vast i» well. i upen, gener- id may people ) Bread n from 9r die. XXVI ROCKED ON THE BOSOM OF THE GANOKS How shall I describe those recent days, my dear fellow travellers? As I write, I am being rocked on the broad bosom of the Ganges in a missionary house-boat on which we are slowly making the journey, towed by noolies, up into the heart of the delta of the Ganges, where the Bengalee Christian Endeavor conveutiou for whioh we are bound is to be held. I could fill a small volume with the novel and unique experiences of the last two days ; but then, to make them vivid, I should need not only to use my Bull's-eye camera, and to get the publishers to allow me to fill my book full of snap-shots from cover to cover, but I should also need the brush of an artist to paint the cocoanut-palms, the date-trees and bananas along the banks ; the gorgeous birds that flit thrrugh the trees, and the still more gorgeous natives, in mahogany skins and red, orange, grp" tnd white cloths, that line the banks, ai\d O'J the narrow streets of the straw-built v!!-^5,»e. that we are continually passing. i f:.i: quite in despair about taking you with im J' .uy adequate, satisfaotory way on this, 181 -»^!^i(^»kK-^tdl^,i3ff^Mii^!^i»v:.-^ ■ VTIf^l^** l62 Fellow Travellers the most novel Christian Endeavor journey I have ever taken. However, here are the bare facts. We left Calcutta in the evening by train, and after riding all night we reached Khoolna on the Ganges, where there awaited us a little stern-wheel steamer, which kicked the water out behind with a vigorous splash. Just at dawn it started. The owls were hooting their last hoot for the night ; the jackals were slinking away from the daylight, and all the rest of the world was waking up to begin a new day. This whole country is a perfect lace-work of waterways, great and small. The Ganges dis- charges its immense volume of water, borne down from the snow}^ Himalayas, through a dozen different mouths, each of them a wide estuary of onrushing water. Between these large streams are iiaiumerable little creeks and canals, through which our steamer threads its way, sometimes under tl'S overhanging branches of palms a:.d plantains, which sweep the deck with their laden boughs. The streams, little or big, are alive with boats large and small, and the boats are alive with men and women and boys and girls. Our litt'e steamer makes great havoc among them in tie narrow canals, first sucking away the water i'rom beneath their keels, and then tossing them up, sometimes high and dry oa Kiit'^B^HfifiSS I i- -^if wM ^^K< 'n^B fc - ■* Fl-di K ^^^ vSW ■1 - oa 2 z Id ^ J _ z 2 is 7-j H O X in < u o t/5 ■J •-) f wni > W On the Bosom of the Ganged 163 the low shore, as the water rushes back. When they see us coming, the hoatmen all scramble on board pell-mell, and hold on to their frail craft for dear life, until the steam monster, which so disturbs their placid waters, has rushed by. Thus all day long we journey until evening shades infold us and the steamer draws near to Barisal. Look! what is that line of wavering light coming down the village street between the mud huts ? Nothing more nor less, my fel- low travellers, than a torchlight procession of Christian Endeavorers coming down to the wharf to meet us ; for Christian Endeavor has found its way into , swamps of the Ganges, and is a living, vital force here. Soon we were in the comfortable bungalow of Rev. William Carey, a great-grandson of the great missionary of the same name, who is working out the Christian Endeavor problem for India more fully than any one else. He has already formed more than sixty Endeavor so- cieties in this one field, and all within two years. Who in all the world has a re'^ord better than that? Let me introduce him to you, — this William Carey, the second, who will always be dear to Christian Endeavorers, as his great-grandfather is to all the Christian world. He is not a tall man or a giant in stature ; but, as you can im- sgfsmm J A. -- 164 Fellow Travellers agiiie, a man alive every inch of hira, from crown to toe. With black hair and eyes and black mustache he snems the very personifica- tion of energy and vitality. When he speaks in public, he talks all over, and not with slow and languid speech. Even bis coat-tails grow eloquent, as used to be said of John B. Gough. This is the man whom God has used so greatly, and whose whole soul is enlisted in the cause of Christian Endeavor. " Carey Sahib very good man ; Mem Sahib very good woman," said the little Mohammedan skipper of our steamer, as we drew near the mission bungalow, and we were prepared to echo this description before we had been five minutes under their hospitable roof. The next morning early, before starting up the Ganges on our long twenty-four hours' journey into the swamps, we attended a united meeting of the girls' and young women's societies of Barisal. A more interesting congregation you could not wish to see ; a good example this of the mater- ial Christian Endeavor has to work upon in Bengal, and of the work it is able to do. The members of the older society have four pices a month for spending-money. Now four pices amount to the munificent sum of two cents, which must last them thirty days ; but out of this these ;5enerou8 Endeavorers support a colporteur, who distributes about eight thou- On the Bosom of the Ganges 165 Band tracts a month to the passengers on the many river stea? tiers that touch at Barisal. Many of the girls give not a tenth, but all their spending-money every month. The little girls have a missionary garden where they raise veg- etables; and some months, by laboring hard, they have managed to make four annas (eight cents) as the contribution of their society. These are not the widow's mites, but the maid- ens' mites. Hear the Lord of the treasury: " Verily I say unto you that these poor maidens have cast more in than all they which have cast into the treasury. For all they did cast in of their abundance, but they of their want did cast in all that they had." Now we are off, as I told you at the begin- ning, for a twenty-four-hour convention away among "the Bheels." But, as Rudyard Kipling Bays, "that is auothei: story." ^. , , n ■il J? U n I XXVII A HISSIOKABY MEOOA One of our many pilgrimages in India which I did not have time to tell you about in chrono- logical order and in detail, because Christian Endeavor events pressed upon me at the time BO thick and fast, was a visit to Serampore, twelve miles from Caicutta, the scene of the lifo-work of the pioneer missionaries, Carey, Marshman, and Ward. Many of you will remembe^ that the British East India Company would not allow Carey to work in Calcutta, or on any part of the soil of India controlled by them ; but Serampore then belonged to Denmark, and the Danish governor welcomed him. Here in the college founded by Carey is a flourishing Christian Endeavor society, of which I have before written, and every rood of that historic ground is fragrant with memories of the great Endeavorer. We were kindly met at the station by one of the younger missionaries, who proved to be a most excellent guide. First we were taken to the cemetery, — sacred soil, indeed; for here, with many other mis- A Missionary Mecca 167 nrhioh irono- istian ) time ipore, >f the ^arey, British rey to loil of I then ernor )r is a y, of »od of aories >ne of be a acred mis- Bionary compatriots, lie William Carey, Marsh- man, Ward, and a child of Adoniram Judson's. Carey's tomb is a somewhat imposing monu- ment of brick and plaster, still in very good preservation. It was erected by himself on the death of his first wife, and on one side, after his own death, this inscription was carved at his own request : — WILLIAM CABEY, BOEN 17 AUGUST, 1761. DIED 9 JUNE, 1834. A WRETCHED, POOR, AND HELPLESS WORM, , ON THY KIND AfcMS I FALL. The tombs of Marshman and Ward, who, dur- ing their lifetime, were scarcely less useful than Carey himself, are of very similar construction, and occupy even more conspicuous positions in the cemetery, Carey's being in one corner near the entrance. The great college building, with its imposing colonnade^ its massive pillars, and its superb view of the Ganges River, over whose banks it stands, is, however, Carey's greatest monument. Here are his literary remains, though his mortal remains moulder in the graveyard near by. In the great college library are the many versions of the Scriptures which this indefati- gable scholar produced. Shelf after shelf is filled with them; no less than forty different J I ^-i*^^-?'*^"-^^i'^C^^J ,;,^i^is^ tm mmttm I 168 Fellow Travellers languages and dialects are represented, as his great-grandson told me. Many of these Carey had printed at his own expense, and the college building itself was erected largely by his own means, for as pro- fessor of Sanskrit in the college of Fort Ed- ward he received five thousand rupees (more than two thousand dollars) a month. Out of this he spent about one hundred rupees for himself, and gave away the rest. There was a tithe-giver for you, indeed ! One-fiftieth of his income he spent on himself; the other forty- nine fiftieths he gave to the Lord's work. But, after all, I think the building that most interested me in Serampore was not the impos- ing college or the well-kept tomb, but an old, dilapidated Hindu temple on the banks of the Ganges. ■ For a hundred years, I suppose, this temple has not been used for heathen worship. At least, it was deserted and ruined in Carey's time, as it is to-day. At one time during Carey's residence, Henry Martyn, that other heaven-sent missionary, spent some months in Serampore. Desiring a place for secret prayer where he could be quite undisturbed, he sought out this ruined pagoda, and there would spend the early morning hour. Carey, Marshman, and Ward heard of this strange prayer-room of their friend, and sometimes they would join A Missionary Mecca 169 Martyn at ]iis devotions; and, when Judson visited Serampore, he, too, naturally joined the group. Think of that scene in the old ruined temple, now fast falling to complete decay, a great pepul tree forcing its giant roots and branches through the very walls ; the Ganges River roll- ing hard by; — Martyn, Judson, Carey (the great trio of modern missions), Marshman, Ward (making up a noble quintette), raising their united voices to Almighty God for a re- deemed India I The imagination is stirred and the pulses thrilled by this mental picture, even after the lapse of eighty years. But there is another object which should not be omitted from a truthful picture of Seram- pore. In a public square, not a pistol-shot from Carey's grave, stands a huge car of Juggernaut, sixty feet high, built in many stories, and covered with strange, rude paintings. In a temple neai by sits Juggernaut himself, with round, staring eyes as big as saucers, a half- moon mouth painted red, and a hideous nose, a scarlet petticoat of red calico covering him from neck to feet. Altogether, he is one of the most grotesque and ugly gods I have seen in all India ; and that is saying a great deal. Once a year he is given a bath with Ganges water, but the operation is so rare that he is supposed to. catch cold and fall sick ; so he is i 5 170 Fellow Travellers taken out of his temple for an airing. A great rope is hitched to his neck, and a dozen men haul him up to the top of his car, which stands near by. Then a thousand men grasp the ropeo tied to the car, and tug and strain to pull the gigantic carriage of the god along the heivvy, sandy road. The moral of these contrasted scenes ? There are enough of them. Here is one: Carey's work, so well begun, is not yet fully done. The master workman dies, but the work, still unfinished, calls for other skilled and conse- crated laborers. Juggernaut still sits in his temple. " No slacker grows the fight." Who will volunteer ? great II men )tHnds p the o pull g the There arey's done. i, still conse- in his Who m/tmmn ' nni. ' !i>« i yg>| | XXVIII COKCEENING A UNIQUE AND MEMORABLE CON- VENTION I AM now on my way back from the most novel and one of the most interesting Chrihtian Endeavor conventions I ever attended in my life. The journey to the convention alone is worth chronicling at length. For three hours we journeyed on a Ganges River steamer. Then she tied up to a bank of slippery, salvy mud, where we were transferred to the missionary house-boat, and after a time were taken in tow by another steamer for three hours more. Then our itinerating novelties began. The house-boat could go but a few yards up this stream, so we bundled ourselves and our be- longings into a ** dingey," a little boat about the size of a Charles River canoe, and quite as unsteady. The dingey is decked over, and is covered with a hood of matting, under which one crawls on his hands and knees. There is no *' stand- ingup " or " sitting-up room," but only ♦' lying- down room," in a dingey. However, it was long after dark by the time we reached this 171 'V-- ;■*-,,- .-^- ^ ^ et*'>aw4*.i=ttfi*^rtt»jp^-iift;''i *-iWa<*ii.»4l^« ^=-.^*»»'xi..,^£ i".;^?^^: ^'A^frii:^^-';^'-fe^^^;W''- ■^'^i '"*'■■ '■-"■'^^■- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 12.8 I.I 11^ \\M= 12.0 1.8 .25 1.4 1.6 -4 6" — ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 m :\ iV \ ^9) .V 6^ 'o^...^ %^\:^^ "^^ .73 Already the Eiideiivorers had begun to gather, aud in the chapel near by i could hear the sound of the cymbals and the tom-toms and the singing, as I dropped off for a few hours of sleep in the grass hut of one of the natives. Morning came all too soon for tired human- ity, and with its first dawn the opening of the convention ; for the people must get home the sume night, and a three days* convection was to be crowded into one, with an almost con- tinuous session of twelve hours from dawn to dusk. Let me picture our surroundings. Imagine a village of forty huts of mud and thatch, each about twelve or fifteen feet square and ten feet high, built around a muddy pond, or " tank," as it is called. The only door is a hole about two feet and a half square, and one is obliged to double up like a jackkn:fe to get in. Until you almost stumble agaiiibt one of the houses, you would scarcely know that there was a village near, for it is embowered in a forest of cocoa- nut- trees and plantains (banana-trees) and date-palms. About half the people of Chhabi- kharpar are Christian and half heathen Hin- dus. At one end of the village stands the chapel, which the people built with their own money, the best building in the village, with a good thatch roof and walls of wood reaching nearly '74 Fellow Travellers to the roof. The road to the chapel is gay with plantain stalks and red Christian Endeavor banners, for all the fifty-five societies repre- sented have brought at least one banner, and some four or five, — not very expensive flags, to be sure, usually only a yard of red calico with a Scripture verse in Bengalee characters upon it ; but they all add to the picturesqueness of the scene. And look! look! Of all the extraordinary scenes ever witnessed at a Christian Endeavor convention, that is the most extraordinary. With brass cymbals clanging, and native drums beating, and hands c'apping, a society from a neighboring village comes dancing up to the chapel, with half a dozen red banners stream- ing before it. The leader, one of the territorial Christian Endeavor organizers, goes before to lead the procession, dancing backward, which {"^ a very perilous operation on the narrow, uneven road, beating time, and singing a Christian hymn at the top of his lungs. " Jesus, O Jesus, come into my heart ; The sight of thy beautiful face drives trouble away. O Jesus, come into my heart. " Jesus, O Jesus, come into my heart ; When thou comest in, it is heaven on earth. O Jesus, come into my heart. A Unique Convention " Jf:sus, O Jesus, come into my heart ; Seeing thee, it is cool ; seeing thee, it is cool. O Jesus, come into my heart." »75 We should say^ " Jesus warms my heart." In this hot clime he cools it. But, if their hearts were cool, their faces did not show it ; for the perspiration dripped from the dancers as they reached the chapel. Within the chapel the dance waxed warmer and more vigorous. Two Endeavorers, facing each other and flinging their arms in the air, would spring from side to side with marvellous agility, but never losing their self-poise or " the power " in all the excitement. Now the tune changes, and they sing, — " The stream of Jove is flowing by ; The stream of love is flowing by,'' and by a wavy motion of the line they indicate the "stream of love." Again a change, and they cry out,— " There are Am/s of love at the foot of the cross ; There are heaps of love at the foot of the cross," and with arms outstretched and arched over they show how it is " heaped up." At last the song is over, and the dancers sink down upon their mats, squatting upon their heels, where they will remain immovable for the next three hours. 1 ■■V''*S?Tf,*,(*e by the Bengalee author of the hymn and translated by a missionary. I wish I could pic- ture the scene : the earnest, dark-skinned Chris- tian tellitig the story with much gesture and dramatic effect, while I jotted down the transla- tion in my note book. On the Malabar coast lived a robber, fierce and implacable, who be- came in time a leader of a band of robbers. This band was the terror of the whole neigh- ' borhood, and in the course of their pillaging expeditir)n^ their leader, Kothabye by name, killed with his own band thirty unoffending victims. After years of robbery and mu.ier Kothabye was captured and sold as a slave. No one would keep him long, however, on ac- count of his ugly and violent temper. So he changed from master to master, and on one oc- casion was found in the market place loaded with chains and waiting for a purchaser. In this pitiable plight a missionary saw him, and offered to purchase him if he could be had for a low price. At length, after some hag- gling, he was knocked down to the missionary for twelve rupees, about four dollars. The missionary took him to his bungalow, and there told him that he did not want him for a slave, but wished him to become Christ's freeman. As the missionary preached of forgiveness by \\ The Song of the Munlerer 183 the blood of Christ, Kothubye interrupted him by sftying, '• But will he forgive a murderer?" •' Yes," said the missionary, •♦ if the murderer is penitent." " Hut will he forgive a man who has killed five men ? " said Kothabye. " Yes," answered the missionary. " But will he forgive one who has killed ten'" " Yes." "But supposing one has committed twenty murders, can he be forgiven?" *' Yes," answered the missionary again. "But if ho has killed thirty men?" "The blood of Jesus Christ will wash away all sins," said tlie missionary. " Then he will save me," answered Kothabye, *' for I am the Murderei* of Thirty." Then Kothabye began to pray ; but he made so dreadful a noise, screaming and crying out for mercy in so frightful a way, that the mis- sionary could not stand it. So Kothabye want off into the jungle where he could pray as loud as he pleased without disturbing ^ny one. Here he found peace, and became a pr.,i oher of righteousness, and before he died between two and three thousand of the members of his tribe ascribed to him their conversion. Well indeed might the sweet singer chant, "Through this name the Murderer of Thirty received salvation." r ■■■] w ! 184 Fellow Travellers After this song and this story we could join even more heartily in the sentiment of the song that followed, — " There are heaps of love at the foot of the cross. There are heaps of love at the foot of the cross." i If! ii ii i;i I t .'•m^'^f-w^^ m- mt. m iA'^n.^^ : ftr.-;. -.rt.«fcr.3.mA^JtrB^f.yf-.^yitJ.r .t.Vp---^.-.Sjy,ai^--»^-V,|-~ij'1j "1!^" XXX A LONG FORWARD STEP My last week in northern India was a very busy one, and e very important one for Chris- tian Endeavor in India ; for during that week the " United Society of Christian Endeavor for India, Burmah, and Ceylon " was formed,— an organization which, I believe, will have as far- reaching and blessed consequences for India as the formation of the American United Society in 1885, or of the British Council of Christian Endeavor in 1892, if I have tlie year right. Engagements in Calcutta were numerous and delightful, including a most pleasant re- ception in the Free Church Mission hall, where more than one hundred missionaries and other leading Christian workers came together; a very largely attended public meeting in the great Dharamtallah Street Methodist church; a Bengalee meeting in the Union church ; and two or three workers' meetings as well. At one of these workers' meetings "the United Society for India, Burmah, and Ceylon " was launched. It has an extensive name, but not a bit too extensive for the work it has to do, for in its field are more than three hundred 18S /p= 186 Fellow Travellers millions of people. God gr.nt that it may be a great evangelizing force among these myriads. One of the leaders in preparing for these •meetings and in promoting with his whole soul the cause of Christian Endeavor in Calcutta is Rev. R. M. Julian, pastor of the leading Bap- tist church of Calcutta. This is the church which Carey founded, and in which he preached when living at Serampore. Mr. Julian was al- ready president of the Calcutta Christian En- deavor Union, and, very naturally and wisely, was chosen the fi'-st president of the United Society with the long name. He will put into the new office all the energy of an earnest nature and of an ardc.it Endeav- orer, who has tried and tested the Society both in England and in Indif.. This United Society is well off in secretaries, too, for it has three of them, Mr. McGaw, the statistical secretary, of whom you have already heard ; Mr. Thompson, of Calcutta, a most wide-awake Endeavorer, the recording secre- tary, who will also furnish headquarters for the literature; and Mr. Burges, the newly ap- pointed Sunday-school secretary for India, who was elected field secretary. No better choices could possibly have been made. Mr. Burges is as enthusiastic for Christian Endeavor as for Sunday-school work, "because it has done so much for me," he says. 'V MMM A Long Forward Step 187 He formed the first society in Wales ; he was the Welsh delegate to the Boston Convention —many of you remembor him ; and he will put Welsh fervor, shrewdness, eloquence, and de- votion into his work, I am sure. The General Council or board of trustees, represents many denominations and all parts of India, and will do all that human instrumen- tality can do to advance the cause. The treas- urer is the leading Christian business man of Calcutta, Mr. Robert Laidlaw, of the most widely known business firm of India ; in fact, he is the John Wanamaker of India. No less cordial than the other denominations, I am glad to tell you, are the Methodists of India, two or three of whom are numbered in the Council. The honored Bishop Thoburn made a most kind and hearty address at the mass-meeting in Calcutta, and Miss Maxey of the same mission, who is one of the Council, is a whole board of trustees in herself. Several native Christians are on the General Council, as is most appropriate, among them Mr. Ba- nurji and Mr. Chatterji, of Calcutta. Mr. Banurji is a very prominent lawyer and orator, and is sometimes called the Chauncey Depew of India. Scotland, Ireland, Mexico, and all other am- bitious countries, if you are expecting the badge-banner in 1897 for proportionate in- i88 Fellow Travellers crease, I advise you to keep your eye on the empire of India. But in all seriousness, I greatly rejoice in the work of the past week, and thank God for it ; for I helieve it means not only annexing a new continent to Christian Endeavor, but opening up a new means of evangelization for myriads of people. Who can tell what results, in the providence of God, may flow from those quiet, Spirit-inspired business meetings? Pray for India, Cli'istian Endeavorers, as you never did befoie, for an increasing host of your Endeavor brothers and sisters will live in that great tri- angle between the salt seas. w,..«n^. .»--'•> '< yir«Mii»i itfnrnfcri XXXI "Tl IN THE SOUTHERN EMPIRE Southern India is an empire by itself, largely cut off, by language and difficulties of commu- nication, from northern India. Christian En- deavor has a large domain here in the south, a domain which Rev. W. I. Chamberlain began to conquer some years ago with the help of friends in the Arcot and the Madura missions; a domain where some of the brightest victories of the future for C hrist and Christian Endeavor of all kinds, I believe, will be won. It is a four days' journey by water from Cal- cutta to Madras, down the treacherous Hooghly, one of the estuaries of the Ganges, and a river on whose shifting sand-bars two great steamers have recently been wrecked; then down the Bay of Bengal for seven hundred miles more. Bright and early— or, rather, it was early and not bright, for it was scarcely dawn— the Malta cast anchor in Madras harbor. At the same moment Dr. Jacob Chamberlain appeared on her deck to welcome me and take me ashore. (By the way, let me ask you in parenthosis whether you have read Dr. Chamberlain's new book of fascinating missionary stories, «• In the 18'* IQO Fellow Travellers Tiger Jungle " ? If you have not, you have a treat before you.) Soon we got into a big, flexible burf-boat, whose planks were tied together with rope and calked with hemp, since no ordinary bout can stand the fierce surf of Madras harbor. When we came near shore, the naked boatmen jumped over into the water, and formed a chair of their hands. In the old-fashioned way of my child- hood, while we firmly grasped with each hand a sweaty, greasy black shoulder, we were borne to the strand. Mr. David McConanghy's pleasant house was mine for the day — tho same David McConaughy who is famous in Y. M. C. A. circles all over the world, and is doing a noble work for the young men of India. You will be glad to know that the corner-stone for the new Y. M. C. A. building, to which Hon. John Wanamaker has given $30,000, has just been laid. Two services, one in the Y. M. C. A. hall and the other in the Free Church of Scotland, occupied the afternoon ; and the next day, very early, I started for Tindivanum, where under the fostering care of Mr. an'' Mrs. Wyckoff Christian Endeavor has for some years had a home. Warm indeed was the greeting, with banners and music and a slow procession to the missionary bungalow. Over the gateway to the grounds was built a kind of welcome lodge ; but vrffi^r^i-'ftiaaiiiMhi'il 11^ u have a ,urf-boat, rope un«i boat can , When 1 jumped r of their tiy child- ^h hand a ire borne louse was /onaughy all over •k lor the glad to Y. M. C. mamaker A. hall Scotland, day, very ire under Wyckoff irs had a ing, with on to the ay to the dge; but y. y. ^lA h.ifiiJix. jiaTB' l iT i^jag ^ »j*«iiiMirtTnifcOiinii ,tm »^mm m In the Southern Empire 191 the banner which attracted most attention was a huge one stretching across the road and borne by four bearers, with the legend in great let- ters, — WELCOME TO REV. FATHF ENDEAVOR F. E. CLARK, I), b. O Mr. Mills, Mr. Mills! does not your heart Bometin.es reproach you, even within the legis- lative halls of the Great and General Court of Massachusetts, for firing that atrocious joke heard round the world ? We had two delightful meetings in Tindiva- num, and enjoyed the renewal of old friend- ships in the mission bungalow ; and then pushed on the same night to Madura, the great mission station of the American Board in southern India. This is one of the chief centres of Christian Endeavor in India, and more than a score of good societies are connected with this mission The great West Gate church was filled on two occasions with dusky, earnest faces ; and the next day I had the pleasure of speaking to the students of the fainous college, theological semi- nary, and high school at Pasumalai, three miles distant. Here Dr. Jones, an old friend of my school- days, presides. He, by the way, is the first '• ' '!i^ v m. m m » ■" ■■■ i g aiMWit j iB^ '( f ' ii I ,Q2 Fellow Travellers president of the new South India Christian En- deavor Union. In many directioub he is doing R great work for the evangelization of India. I wish I could introduce you personally to all the devoted missionaries of this mission, Mr. \ aughan and Mr. Holton and Dr. Van Allen and the "godly women not a few," as well as the native workers, who have done so much to establish Christian Endeavor under the shadow of the greatest, and in some respects the most magnificent, Hindu temple in the world. The same day found me on the way to Bat- talagundu in a bullock bandy with Mr. Herrick, another of this mission band. A most enjoy- able journey it was. At night we Stopped m a deserted wayside bungalow to hold a Christian Endeavor niceting in a village a mile away. Close by was a grove of huge banyan-trees, and in the trees a whole colony of monkeys, big and little, old and young, sedate and frisky. They looked almost wise enough to form themselves into a society ; only some of the younger mem- bers would have been too active, a fault not usually attributable to Christian Endeavorers. The way they jumped from tree to tree, and hung by th'Jr tails, and chased each other from bra:i?h to branch, was better than a whole zoological garden at home. However, though no organization was effected in the banyan-tree, Mr. Samuel Joseph, my ex- H stian En- I is doing India, onally to jsion, Mr. 'an Allen 18 well as » much to le shadow the most Id. ly to Bat- •. Herrick, ost enjoy - jpped in a Christian lile away, -trees, and )'s, big and ky. They ihemselves nger mem- fault not ideavorers. a tree, and other from 1 a whole In the Southern Empire mi cellent interpreter, formed a society in this vil- lage of which I speak, and the next day at Bat- talagundu formed five others through the teach- erg and catechists there aseembled. vas effected sph, my ex- __>" XXXII BWAMl VIVEKANANDA UPON HIS NATIVE HEATH ONii uf the Brahmans who made the greatest Bensation while in America at the Parliament of Religions was the gorgeous and plausible Vivekananda. While I was in Madras he made his triumphal entrance to India. He deserves a chapter in this book. A Hindu prophet is not always without honor in his own country. Swami Vivekananda has come back to India, has seen and conquered. Everywhere in southern India he has been re- ceived with more than royal acclaim. Tri- umphal arches have been erected; garlands in- numerable have been hung upon his willing neck ; his carriage has been unyoked from its horses and drawn by enthusiastic scholars and high dignitaries of the land, for is not he the great Brahman who has won the Western lands for Hinduism? Is not he the profound scholar, the eloquent orator, the astute diplomat, the master of assemblies, who, by waving his magic wand for a few months in Chicago, New York and London, has turned back the engulfing waters of Christianity, which threatened, only 194 Swami Vivckanantla »9? NATIVE le greatest 'arl lament plausible 18 he made e deserves hout honor iiianda has conquered, las been re- iaim. Tri- rarlands in- his willing ed from its cholars and not he the istern lands ind scholar, plomat, tlie ig his magic , New York e engulfing itened, only a few sliort j'ears ago, to submerge the world — India included? These are the ideas at least which the aver- ago Hindu seems to have imbibed, and we may be very sure that Vivekananda himself has done nothing to disabuse his countrymen of these notions. No wonder they call him "Swami" in their words, " God " Vivekananda. But, though so exalted, this god is quite wil- ling to be interviewed. He doubtless learned the trick when in America. Here are some choice extracts as they recently appeared in the Madras Mail. " What was your experience of America, Swami?" asked the enterpriHing reporter. "From first to last very good," answered Vivekananda. " With the exception of the missionaries and 'church women,' the Ameri- cans are most hospitable, kind-hearted, gener- ous, and good natured." Naturally the reporter desired to know some- thing of these " exceptions " who so fall be- low the average American, and so he asked, " Who are these church women that you speak of, Swami?" Swami : " When a woman tries her best to find a husband she goes to all the bathing- places imaginable, and tries all sorts of tricks to catch a man. When she fails in her at- tempts, she becomes what they call in America Tf^irirmrrr-Tuniir ' »,*■•=«»» •-« 196 Fellow Travellers an ' old maid,' aud joins the church. Some of them become very 'churchy.' These church women are awful fanatics. They are under the thumb of the priests there. Between them and the priests they make a hell on earth. They make a mess of religion. With the ex- ception of these the Americans are a very good people. They loved me so much. I loved them. I felt as though I was one of them." After sounding the Swami on the interesting subject of " church women " the reporter asked him his idea concerning the Parliament of Re- ligions. Here is Vivekananda's opinion. " The Parliament of Religions, as it seems to me, was intended for a ' heathen show ' before the world, but it turned out the heathen got the upper hand and made it a Christian show all around. So the Parliament of Religions was a failure from a Christian standpoint. But the Chicago parliament was a tremendous suc- cess for India and Indit 1 thought. It helped on the tir.e of Vedanta which is flooding the world." Having exhausted these American church women and the Parliament of Religions, the Swami adopts the role of prophet when asked, '*What are the prospects of the spread of your mission in England?" " There is every prospect," he replied, with jaunty confidence. " Before ten years elapse a I a.._i, ■!Jt''f¥a>nt,mmM^^.* Swaini Vivekananda 197 Some of le church vre under ^een them on earth, h the ex- very good ved them. iteredting ter asked nt of Re- on. seems to w ' before itlien got tian show Religions lint. But dous suc- It helped )ding the 1 church [ions, the en asked, 1 of your lied, with ) elapse a vast majority of the English people will be Ve- dantins. There is a greater prospect of this in England than in America. You see Americans make a fanfaronade of everything, which is not the case with Englishmen," Thus having predicted the complete triumph of Brahmanism in England, and that within the short space of one decade, he goes on to give an interesting view of the English character, which, on the whole, he esteems highly, as in- deed is most fitting in a loyal subject of Queen Victoria. But this further estimate he confides to the willing ear of the reporter : " John Bull is rather a thick-headed gentleman to deal with. You must turn the screw and push the idea until it reaches his brain, but once there it does not get out. . . . To my astonishment many of my friends belong to the Church of England. I learn that these missionaries who how! (against me) come from the lowest classes in England. No Englishman will mix with them. Caste is as vigorous there as it is here, and the English churchman belongs to the class of gentlemen. Therefore I would give a word of advice to my countrymen; that is, not to take the least notice of all these vituperative missionaries, now that I have found out what they are. We have ' sized ' them, as the Americans say. Non-rec- ognition is the only attitude to assume toward them." •— ■- ••"■-.-->-.■■ I «*■ J" i i I ' 4 ! It 198 Fellow Travellers I might go on through many columns, quot- ing other choice bits from this sage of modern Brahmanism, but perhaps these are enough to show his braggadocio and deceit and his ani- mus against missionaries and earnest Christians. This interview is surely sufficient to open the eyes of certain gullible Americans who petted and coddled him, and gave him the impression that they were so much superior to the despised missionaries and " church women " who " make a hell on earth." That Vivekananda's return has made a deep impression upon certain portions of the Hindu community is certain. But I cannot find that the Christian community has been greatly af- fected by his bombastic claims. The arrival of Dr. John Henry Barrows in Madras at about the same time is a powerful antidote to Vive- kananda's poison. Dr. Barrows is so uncom- promising and outspoken in his defence of evan- gelical Christianity that he has won the hearts of all the missionaries and Christian workers. He has deeply impressed many Hindus as well, and when he leaves India he will doubtless be classed by Swam i as a "low-caste American," perhaps not much better than the " church women" themselves. '*.1tiu*«t.A:*'A f'.>V»ii;'At(^i"V*^'"-*"T*ir"' -i-'Y^-' ^ • 'in fnn Tfcftih-Tr^ • mri hn XXXIII OUE SIXTY DAYS IN INDIA Our sixty days in India are nearly at an end, and this last week has been quite as interesting as any that has preceded. In the first place, on Monday, February 15, 1897, the representatives of South India ratified the United Society for India, Burmah, and Ceylon, so happily started at Calcutta a fortnight before, chose representa- tives for the council, and also formed a Chris- tian Endeavor Union for South India, with Dr. Jones, of Madura, for president, and Rev. W. I. Chamberlain, of Vellore, for secretary. Of Dr. Jones and his work I have already spoken, and Mr. Chamberlain is the same inde- fatigable worker who for years has led the En- deavor forces of the empire. Then, when this new union was well launched, began a pleasant week of touring with Rev. R. Burges, our new field secretary, as I trust the Sunday-school Union, whose general secretary for India he is, will allow me to call him. First we visited Coirabatoor, near the west coast, where the London Mission has a strong station. Here live Mr. Small and Rev. A. W. 199 ^4if^«-mm»^^'At*$^ilMi>Vfbmi,^f„i ■ y t» J L:'in^rv''--*-ii-iV:i —■St / 'W^V-' -^1 ';t-T:ii W*i,fe»*^^ ■■I 200 Fellow Travellers V ■■ t Brough, whom T last met when he was a pas- tor ill Maitland, Australia. In his beautifully decorated church there he greeted me in 1892, and now in another beautifully docoruted church, seven thousand miles away, he has greeted me again. Here is a good Christian Endeavor society, and another in a Eurasian school supported by the generosity of Robert Stanes, Esq. The same night we were again on the way, and the next afternoon found us at lovely Vel- iore. Rev. W. I. Chamberlain's home. Here a pleasant meeting was held, and another at Chit- toor the next day. Chittoor is the mission station which is supported altogether by the Reformed (Dutch) Church Endeavorers of the United States. Most appropriate was it, then, that we should halt here for a half-day ; and I am glad to congratulate the Endeavorers of this denomination on everything connected with their own station. In Mr. and Mrs. Beattie, the missionaries in charge, they have two devoted and efficient workers to sustain ; the church is a noble one, one of the finest mis- sion church buildings in India, and the girls' school is large and prosperous. Rev. W. I. Chamberlain and his charming wife were formerly the missionaries at this station, but they have been transferred to Vel- lore. We all had our pictures taken by Mr. .>^pijtt«ia!as»«!®#«5?W Eis a paa- lutifully in 1892, cuoFuted he has Christian Eurasian f Robert the way, vely Vel- Here a r at Chit- ! mission r by the jrs of the 3 it, then, ly ; and I vorers of ;onnected md Mrs. ,hey have sustain ; Bnest rais- the girls' charming !3 at this ed to Vel- n by Mr. Our Sixty Days in India 20 1 Burgas on the church tower,— three men on a tower,— with a great crowd of admiring Hindus looking on at the mysterious art of photography. The next day was one of the most novel of the pilgrimage, for it was marked by the con- vention held with the village society of Yeha- mur, of the Arcot Mission. A ride of twenty-one miles in an American l>uggy brought us near the village, and to a recep- tion that was a reception. Half-a-dozen huge ban- ners of welcome, a drum corps of a dozen drums of all possible and impossible shapes, a whole brass foundry of clashing cymbals, firecrackers, and other joyous expressions, greeted us. In triumph Mr. Burges and the missionaries, Mr. Beattie, Dr. Scudder, — in whose field is Yeha- mur,— and myself, were escorted across a wide field, through a heathen village. Here the drummers built grass fires, and heated their drums so that they gave forth a terrific din, enough to arouse the most hardened heathen. At last the Christian part of the village was reached, and at the door of the roomy church the "tamasha" was resumed with redoubled vigor, until the not wholly imaginary headache of one of the party was pleaded as an excuse for silencing the hospitable noise. Two afternoon meetings were held, but tlie great event was the evening service. Before the addresses we were all garlanded most pro- i,0^»im»i^ r"*"" ' I *■ ■ r f '■ ! i C^JLl 202 Fellow Travellers fusely. Before the evening was over, I counted four heavy garlands of yellow flowers around my neck, one composed of six strings of flowers. A gorgeous bird of paradise, made of tinsel paper and perched on a flower decorated stick, was thrust into my hand, and six limes were given me to hold. Pomegranates were given us, and Mr. Burges's weakness for bananas was recognized by a large bunch. An address of welcome in a beautiful sandalwood box and a lyric sung to a spirited native tune formed part of the exercises. Modesty forbids me to quote the poem in full, but one verse ran in polite Oriental phrase as follows : — " O Arcot Endeavorers, clap your hands enthusiastically, Garland our Dr. Clark with flowers. Sprinkle him with plenty of rose-water." Suiting the action to the word, a swarthy Tamil brother deluged me with fragrant rose- water, and then proceeded to sprinkle liberally my friendij on the platform, while the song went on uninterruptedly through fifteen or twenty verses. But the bes« of " tp.mashas " must come to an end, as this one did. A long moonlight ride brought us to Dr. Scudder's hospitable bunga- low, where we enjoyed two hours of sleep before taking the train for Madras at three in the morning. '•|*^,.'^*S(*SS-„ ,;^-- -•MI§lg:4«a!i^a«*«S^f**- ^^ Our Sixty Days in India 203 The Madras Christian Endeavor meeting, held later in the day, was an encouraging and hopeful cue, though the movement has as yet taken slight hold in that great city. The strong and brotherly address of Dr. Rudishill, of the Methodist Episcopal Church, would have done your hearts good in its outspoken, enthusiastic stand for our Christian Endeavor interdenomi- national fellowship. This meeting was scarcely over before we were again upon the train, for an all night's ride to Madanapalle, where was established, you remember, the pioneer Christian Endeavor so- ciety in South India, — a society which for seven years has done splendid work. Here live my dear friends. Dr. and Mrs. Jacob Chamberlain, and Rev. L. B. Chamberlain. Of the pleasures of these last two days before sail- ing for Africa I cannot begin to tell you, but I shall never forget them. I can onlj' say that the first meeting was held near the station of Chinna Tippusamudram, under the auspices of the vigorous senior society of Madanapalle. Here was organized a society which rejoices in having a record-breaking name for length. Other meetings in Madanapalle revealed the grasp of Christian Endeavor in this, one of its earliest strongholds of India. Now my sixty days in India are numbered. I sail this afternoon for Natal, South Africa, a ,. Vu'Mi ■■ ■^■■W*»-| .n- I- HL«!r-i m . 204 Fellow Travellers fwenty-three days' voyage in a small coolie emigrant steamer. I thank God for these sixty days. I am leaving this great continent, en- couraged beyond measure concerning the future of Christian Endeavor in India and the So- ciety's adaptability to this country. These days have been among the most busy and most memorable of my life. If I have given any of ray readers the impression that this has been one long picnic, let me remind them that into these sixty days have been crowded eighty-one addresses to people who speak seven different languages, and more than six thousand miles of travel, and that nearly one-half of the nights have been spent on the rail. A picnic ! " That is no name for it." A sixty days' picnic is not to be compared with a sixty days' tour among the Christian Endeavorers of India. \ XXXIV A SKY PILOT ON A COOLIE SHIP For the sake of the landsmen among my readers,— and I suppose they are in a decided majority, — let me first introduce them both to the sky pilot and to the coolie ship. The "sky pilot" is a certain individual of whom they have heard before, who is taking a long journey for the advancement of Christian Endeavor interests, from India's coral strand to Afric's sunny fountains. By sailors in general he and all bis brothers of the ministerial calling are designated as " sky pilots," in good-natured contempt, I suppose, for their presumed igno- rance of sublunary things in general, and of nautical matters in particular. But this sky pilot, at least, is very willing to accept the title, and only hopes that he may be able to live up to it, and pilot some human craft to the skies. The coolie ship is the nearest approach to the old-fashioned " slaver " that sails the seas to-day. This particular ship, the good Congella, carries indentured coolies, the lowest class of Hindu laborers, from Madras to Natal. Though more like the old-fashioned slave-ship than any other 206 H «fe.C« itftM. 1 s. "^Hiattit^^ 'iiv.,^^.^ ^r 206 Fellow Travellers r afloat, it is, thank fortune, far removed from that abomination of desolation ; for the Natal government exercises a paternal solicitude for its emigrants, and, though they are going to a new continent to work hard on plantations, they are going of their own free will, and in the hope of bettering their poor fortunes. The government itself imports them, as they are better laborers than the native Zulus, guaran- tees them their wages, and agrees to take them back to India at the end of five years if they wish to go. Moreover, this paternal govern- ment is so very paternal that it vaccinates ita future citizens, and segregates them for a week before sailing, to make sure that they start with no contagious disease ; then burns all their clothing, to make certain that there go aboard as few as possible unseen passengers, minute stowaways tliat do not appear in the ship's manifest. , Then it gives to each future citizen, men anc women alike, impartially, a strip of white cot- ton cloth, while all that the children need is a tow string to fasten on the pieces of tin bear- ing their numbers, a smile, and, if they can af- ford it, a necklace of beads. Then it puts them aboard the steamer, with sufficient rice and pumpkins and other " curry stuff " to last for three weeks and two days, with a supply of tobacco also ; for I am sorry to say that aU the *ii.^ :^s?4MSte ; J-?#'!tMSBI" red from ha Natal itude for oing to a mtatious, 1, and in les. The they are I, guaran- ake them rs if they 1 govern- nnates its or a week iiey start IS all their go aboard s, minute the ship's t, men anc white cot- 1 need is a f tin bear- iey can af- in it puts icient rice iff " to last \ supply of that all the A Sky Pilot on a Coolie Ship 207 future citizens, even down to the four-year-old toddler, are addicted to the weed. Moreover, the paternal government of Natal is so paternal that it dooujs us all, coolies and sky pilot alike, to twenty-three days at sea, though the voyage could easily be made in eighteen, lest we carry some dire disease to the Natalese. The reasoning seems to be: In twenty-three days the disease, whatever it is, will have time to run its course, and the pas- sengers will either be all well or all dead, and in neither case c&n they contaminate us. To be sure, it is not exactly a pleasant thought that one is doomed to imprisonment for twenty-three days on a possible pest-ship without any possibility of a reprieve ; but then the sky pilot ought not to comi)laln, for it is by special favor, as it were, that he is allowed to make one of this happy family. He is the only white passenger, and, though he pays more than one hundred dollars for his accommoda- tions and disacccmmodations, he came near be- ing refused altogether by the paternal govern- ment. For has he not been wanderuig all over India? Has he been segregated for a week? Will he allow his clothing to be burned ? "No, indeed," he says; "they are poor things, sir, but mine own." So the "protector" of the pa- ternal government deliberates over his case, shakes his head wisely, but at length allows |jgiB jj .-|j i w i - I 1 ^ 208 Fellow Travellers l.l him to go aboard with hia ticket iiidorHe<1, " It is my opinion that Rev. can embaik with- out danger to the coolies." Somehow the sky pilot had never thought of it in that light before, and had, in his i\nglo- Saxon pride of cleanliness, supposed that he was the one in danger of contaminaiion ; but pride must ever have its fall and self-conceit its Waterloo. But now we have been at sea seventeen days, and the sky pilot has had a chance to learn something about his fellow passengers. I'crhaps you would like to share his observations. We are, to all intents and purposes, in a little world by ourselves. There is no possible communi- cation, except with the fishes below and the blessed angels above. For twenty three days we are cut ofiF from all commerce with our kind. No telegrams, no penny-post, no express package, can reach our floating island. Europe may be submerged by a tidal wave ; Lord Salis- bury may have been induced to say something decisive on the Eastern question, though I very much doubt it ; America may have been frozen stiff in a March blizzard, who knows? We certainly do not, for was not a new president to have been inaugurated on the fourth of March, now eleven days ago? and no news thereof has reached our distant planet. But now for the population of this little #r—.-v''^^l^3 -S5>^5 TTifTCtor? iTS--*-tf Hfcffi V ti Tlffirf f y TlMl news A Sky Pilot on a Coolie Ship 209 iron asteroid, — our esteemed fellow-passengers. There are four hundred of tliem, and they lie strewn thickly over the decks by day and the hold by night, so thickly that the sky pilot has to pick his way gingerly whenever he takes his walks abroad, lest he step on an outstretched finger or toe, or a coolie baby. This somewhat limits his exercise, for he has no desire, like the conquerors of old, to tread on human necks. The following characteristics he has noticed in his fellow-passengers. They love a little brief authority. Some of them have a letter S on their arms to show that they are sirdars. Under them are the topas, not jaspers or emer- alds, but topas, whose duty is to sweep the decks, and they are marked with a " T." How the sirdars do like to order about the topas ! How they yank them by the ear, and pull them by the hair, when they do not do their work satisfactorily ! O thou autocratic sirdar, type of so many minds in many larger kingdoms, whose heads are turned by a little sudden rise in power and dignity, teach us all, by thy ab- surd airs, lessons of humility and lowliness. Many of my fellow-passengers are much given to ornaments. To be sure, most of them are absurdly poor, a quarter of an anna (one- half a cent) being more than the united cash possessions of some whole families ; but these 210 Fellow Travellers same families indulge in many brass bangles and ornaments. For instance, in each car of one of my fellow-passengers I counted four ear- rings ; in her nose were three more ornaments, one on each side and one depending from the cartilaginous division in the middle. Three of her toes also sported a heavy pewter ring each, while her ankles and wrists jingled with many bracelets. The total money value of the whole ornamental outfit might possibly be five cents; but I noticed that because of them she put on many airs, and seemed to consider herself quite superior to unadorned females. In the eyes of the angels, the sky pilot said to himself, is it not possible that the crowns of royalty and the coronets of nobility and the diamonds of the rich, which are the occasion of so much exclusiveness on the one side and envy on the other, are of no more value than this poor coolie's baubles? Again, my fellow-passengers have many habits that ofTend a squeamish stomach and a sensitive soul. They are quarrelsome, and sometimes must be tied to the rail for fighting. They eat more like pigs at a trough than like human beings. Fingers, in their estimation, were evidently made long before spoons and forks. They have never discovered the use of a pocket-handkerchief, and the "Madras hunt" is constantly in progress on deck. A Sky Pilot on a Coolie Ship 211 But from twenty-three days amid these uu- pleasant sights and sounds, and worse smells, the sky pilot is determfned to learn a lesson of tolerance and humility; for is there not high T ,"'{, .^,' o'" '^^'"^' "'" '"^"3^ thi"gs we offend all ? Sky pilot, look to thyself. The coolies are not the only ones who have joints in their armor and flies in their ointment. f 'i i mam XXXV TWENTY-THBEE DAYS AT SEA Ain> SOME RE- FLECTIONS Twenty-three days at sea, the only white passenger on a crowded ship, gives one time for many reflections. I hope I have not entirely wasted my time ; and, if you do not c'jject, my dear fellow travellers, I will share some of my thoughts with you ; though, as I know the an- tipathy of most mortals to moral reflections, and the inconsiderateness of many moral reflec- tors, I will try not to bore you. In the first place, we are all here together on this ship for better or worse for three and twenty days. There is no getting off the ship. There is no calling at any island or port on the way. Here we are, and here we must stay for three weeks and two days, according to the decree of the Natal government, to give any infectious disease we may have brought from India time to show itself. If the poorest cooli^^ should be taken with the cholera, we should ail be involved in a common danger. If the smallest little naked child, kicking about on the decks, should have the smallpox, we should 212 Twenty-three Days at Sea 213 all be quarantined after arrival, perhaps for weeks. I was obliged to sign a contract before coining on board, saying that I would submit, if necessary, to the same quarantine "as the other emigrants " on the bluff at Durban. What is this but saying, as the Scripture eaith, "If one member suffer, all the members suffer with it"? How admirable an illustra- tion for good-citizenship committees I We as a nation are all metaphorically "in the same boat," as I am actually with these four hundred coolies. If one poor emigrant to America in- troduces moral contagion, the whole country suffers more or less contamination. The true patriot is the one who tries to stop the disease before the whole body politic is sick and sore. Again, I have often reflected that there is just one man on board who knows the way o\ er this interminable waste of waters. Even the first mate at the beginning of the voyage did not know the course we should take. When I asked him on the first day out, he told me he could not tell how " the old man," as he called the captain, had decided to go. But the captain knew. He had studied the charts, and knew how the currents set at this time of year, and when the trade-winds would be felt, and where good weather might be e*:- pected; and so he steered cautiously around Ceylon, skirted the Maldive Islands, struck I I*' I 214 Fellow Travellers boldly across the Indian Ocean, took the nar- row channel between bold Comoro and Johanna off the coast of Madagascar, and then steamed down the middle of the great Mozambique Channel to Durban. I am glad he knows the way. It makes very little difference whether I do or not. He directs the ship. I like to think of the " Captain of our salva- tion " sometimes as a ship-captain rather than as a military captain. He knows the way, and he steers my bark. The captain of our steamer knows, every day at noon, after he ' as " taken the sun," just where we are, even within a mile ; and I have faith to believe that he will find the little dent on the African coast called Durban harbor, after crossing this great and wide sea, and will take me in safety across the bar. I have the same faith, infinitely increased, in the great Captain, and when each night comes I can peacefully go to sleep. He is at the helm. He knows the safe harbor at the end. He will take me across the bar. I have spoken of the ocean currents. They are a great factor on this voyage. Sometimes they are against us, retarding our speed from two to four knots an hour; sometimes, and more often, for our captain knows where they run and how to take advantage of them, they are with us, helping our speed just as much. They arc like vast rivers, deeper and wider I •:^rm: m^ Twenty-three Days at Sea 215 and stronger than any Mississippi or Amazon, flowing through the midst of the ocean. So in all our lives are such strong, over- sweeping currents of passion, of circumstance, of environment, of prejudice. They are un- seen of men, but none the less real and potent. Our Captain, too, knows where these life-cur- rents run; and, if we allow our lives to be guided by him, he will so steer our course that all these currents will be a help, not a hin- drance. Even when they seem most adverse for a time, we can make head against them if we will, as our iron steamer with its thousand- horse-power engine makes head against the ad- verse current of the Indian Ocean. Once more, the end of the voyage is always in mind, a joyful anticipation. What would induce a landsman with a quiet, comfortable home to leave it, and endure the miseries of seasickness twenty-three days on a coolie ship with its filth and its indiflferent food, its luke- warm water, its cockroaches, its other vermin that it is still less proper to mention in polite society, and its unutterable smells? What would induce one to do this? Why, the end in view, to be sure, would induce you or me or any of us to take the voyage. If it was our duty and we could succeed in planting Chris- tian Endeavor a little more firmly in the great African continent, there are few of us who ■'I i I •-*.',^.*-*,_«»,u»Wfc«,i^:.^y*^*,-Lk, - to w fttf ^ifciteW i iJi ^ 2l6 Fellow Travellers if I ■f ! would not start to-morrow. Many times I have thought of South Africa and the work there, and then of the home-going afterward ; and almost every hour has been brightened by present work and pleasant anticipations. Why should we not brighten our long earthly journey far more than we do with de- lightful anticipations of the journey's end, and of the work and the home that await us? XXXVI AFBICA AT LAST Herb we are, at last, my dear fellow travel- lers, in South Africa, the land of our hopes and ianticipations for many a long week. A wonderful country is Natal, with its lovely, rolling hills, clothed in living green, its deep caBons, its vast table-lands dotted with the cattle from a thousand hillsides ; a country of marvellous resources, of brilliant promise, of a checkered anc blood-stained history, but of a glorious future, I believe. Christian Endeavor, too, at least in Natal and the Transvaal, is mostly in the future, and these are the days of beginnings. I landed in Durban, being set free from the prison pest-house of the emigrant steamer on the twenty-third of March; and that same evening I attended a Christian Endeavor meet- ing in the Baptist church of Pastor Rose, who has the only living Young People's society in the city, though there are two Juniors. There has been a sad mortality among the societies in Durban, something like the rinderpest among the cattle in the Transvaal. I do not know what the reason is, unless it 217 I I I 2l8 Fellow Travellers U !!' may be due to the bacillus " amusement " or " entertainment " ; but certain it is that in no other part of the world have there been so many deaths in the Christian Endeavor family. In fact, it is usually the rarest thing in the world to hear of the death of a society once fairly established. I especially enjoyed a visit of three hours (which was all the many meetings in Durban allowed) to Amanzimtote, one of the stations of the American Board's Zulu mission. First an hour in the train, then three hours in a wagon drawn by four oxen, and then the white buildings and schoolhouses of the Adams mission station at Amanzimtote came in sight. I should like to describe this work at length, and tell you about all these devoted workers ; but space forbids. I can assure you there is no more heroic, self-sacrificing, noble body of mission workers in all the world ; and within a very few weeks the prayers of scores of years have been answered, and the labors of three- quarters of a century rewarded, by the most remarkable outpouring of God's Spirit that this, or, perhaps, any other station has ever known. As I write, meetings of wonderful power are held daily. They extend into the night, and sometimes last all night; the sons and the daughters are prophesying, and the Zulu ' -> ' - ' Jl-.Vilg. '■ Africa at Last 219 Christians are bowed down with a sense of their sin like reeds in the river by the onrushing current. One of the devoted missionaries here, the Rev. Charles N. Ransom, has been the superin- tendent of Christian Endeavor in South Africa for seven years. He has been instant in season and out of season. I dimly suspect that he seems to some of the brethren like a Christian Endeavor crank, who has been trying to intro- duce some newfangled Yankee religious patent. To me, if he will forgive the illustration, he seems more like a twenty-four ox team, such as I have often seen on the roads of South Africa, striving to drag the wagon Christian Endeavor over the heavy roads and up the steep hills of indifference that always oppose a new idea. In Pietermaritzburg, the capital of the col- ony, are two good Endeavor societies, one in the Congregational, the other in the Baptist, church ; and the meetings here, though some- what interfered with by deluges of rain (real tropical cloudbursts), were large and full of spiritual power. The chain of prayer and the warm evangelistic spirit made me feel that I was indeed at home. Here live Rev. Walter Searle and his gifted wife, both of whom are so well known by their writings in connection with the Keswick movement. Here, too, I was the guest of Mr. Henry Bale, a member of the ■■■i ■■'' •ii I :i I 220 Fellow Travellers Natal Parliament, and one of the leading oiti- zens in the colony, who has been induced to open his beautiful home most hospitably, and especially to homeless young men, by reading the books o". " Pansy," un author whom he greatly admires. How far these books have carried the spirit of their author, and how these pansies bloom in far-away lands ! In Ladysmith we had two meetings, the second one in the pretty town hall ; and the next day I pushed on across the uplands of the Transvaal to Johannesburg, one of the modern wonders of the world ; a city of more than a hundred thousand inhabitants, which has been waved into existence in ten years by the magic wand of gold. We are reminded constantly that things are in a very unsettled and perilous state here, and that a revolution may set in at any moment. On the boarders of the Transvaal I was stopped, and my passport demanded, and very properly, owing to the excited state of feeling in this re- public. On arriving, I was interviewed by a reporter of The Star, or rather of The Comet, for the day before. The Star, an independent newspaper, had been suspended for three months by President Kruger. 2%e Comet then appeared, explaining that 2%e Star had disap- peared into space for three months, but 77*e Comet, another of the heavenly bodies, with a m^ Africa at Last 221 solid head and a frightful tail, had taken its jilace. Now, as I write these last words, comes the glad news from home of the meetings on Christian Endeavor Day, and of the deepening of the spiritual life of so many in connection with Mr. Meyer's visit to America. It is but a repetition of the good news that has come to me from many a land during the past year. North America and South Africa can join hands in this. Anglo-Saxon Christians and Zulu Christians have alike shared the blessing. Dear Endeavorer, you who read these words, has this blessing untold come into your individ- ual life ? If not, why not ? I XXXVII THE AFRICAN AT ROME The African at home in a bright, good-na* tured, cheerful, musical, happy-go-lucky, im- provident, impulsive, faithful fellow. To be sure, there are Africans and Africans. They speak many languages and occupy widely separated sections of a vast continent, but they have many characteristics in common. It must also be said that there is a great difference be- tween the "raw Kafl5r"in his kraal and the civilized Christian native. But let us look at him as we find him, in a s' of nature and also in a state of grace. Th i undoubtedly represents the finest race of Atricans physically and mentally. He has impressed his character- istics upon many other races whom he has con- quered, while he in turn has been conquered by the English and the Dutch and— the Maxim gun. As you see the Zulu in the streets of Durban, for instance, he strikes you as the jolliest, light- est-hearted individual in existence. He has a superabundance of life and vitality. He dances and sings upon the street-corner. When he draws you in the jinrikisha, he prances and 282 I *-*.*3/W>* •^" mlimit it, good-na* lucky, im J Africans, upy widely it, but they I. It must Terence he- al and the us look at nature and idoubtedly physically 1 chnracter- le has con- iquered by he Maxim 3f Durban, liest, light- He has a He dances When he ances and *^"^S^ ».'k»ac*'. ij0 \r i S( it ' ! ( !' '( J ^ ii J J fCM I « -s: M. msM :min wmmmimMtimi/immmmm The African at Home 223 gallops and puffs and snorts like a steam- engine ; and " choc, choo, clioos " as if he were a veritable locomotive. Life seems to be one prolonged holiday to him if only he can get enough " mealies " (Indian corn) and sweet po- tatoes to eat. In the most fat;tastio and grotesque garbs does he dress. You will see him in all sober- ness marching down the principal street of Dur- ban with a battered tall silk hat rakish ly perched on one side of his head, and his nether extremities clad in a gorgeous blanket of as many colors as Joseph's traditional coat. Or you will see him arrayed chiefly in beads ; a bead apron tied about his loinn, a heavy chain of beads about his neck, a huge coil of beads bound about bis forehead, great bead earrings in his ears, bracelets and ankhts of the same, and a pair of big bead goggles, with no glasses in them, over his eyes. Many of the " 'rickshaw " men wear huge ostrich plumes as tall as a drum-major's, while others bind a pair of great horus from some de- funct steer upon their heads, and go galloping gayly off with their big baby-carriages, contain- ing one or two men, as if they were mere chil- dren. When such an apparition appears upon the street, you feel inclined to look at his feet to see whether he has huufs as well as horns. Our African at home lives in a grass or mud '^\ I i ■aai.i--j,i^,-'»-,T=.».v^...,^~..~.-.«.,.-...-,^.y.fp,-.,Y>^.^-^;.y — •- [f^- , v.vg ■ ■» < ilMjj > l» i) I H >i l> \< nm ^w} > * » > 't '-r :i;"-:.# i 'Si' '"'I J m 224 Fellow Travellers hut, of n circular shape and some fift<)an or twenty feet in diameter. The floor is made of hard pounded mud, and in the middle is a mud fireplace, from which the smoke curls up through a hole in the roof. He requires very little furniture, for he squats oc the floor, and rolls himself up in his blanket at night, with his head on a curved wooden block in lieu of a pillow. I have crawled into several of these kraal huts, and can say from experience that loftiness must be abased, and that "topknot" must come down, before one can enter these straight and narrow doorways. If our Zulu is well-to-do, he has three or four or even a dozen or more huts, in each one of which a dusky wife presides and rears her own brood of pickaninnies. Moreover, the wives must earn theii' husband's bread, while the lord of creation sits lazily by, engaged in the arduous operation of smoking a pipe or a cigar. A cigar, by the way, he usually puts into his mouth fire end first, so as to get the benefit of all the smoke. Since the women do the work, it comes about that they are valuable property in Zululand, and a man is accounted a citizen of substance and weight according to the number of his wives. Instead of giving a dowry, as do the fatners of the countries where effete Western 4 '«< The African at Home I fift*ian or ' is made of le is a mud curls up quires very e floor, and night, with in lieu of a these kraal lat loftiness not" must Bse straight IS three or in each one i rears her reover, the read, while engaged in a pipe or a sually puts to get the lomes about 1 Zululand, f substance iber of his , as do the te Western 225 civilization prevails, the would-be husband pays the father roundly for liis daughter, a likely young girl bringing from twelve to twenty cows, while, if the father is a chief, or head man, he will not part with his daughter for less than thirty cows. •' Revolting ! " do you say ? "A disgusting, degrading habit " ? But how much worse are these open bargains than the marriages for con- venience or for fortune, or the sale of American beauty for an English coronet ? I venture to say there is quite as much love among the KafBrs of the kiaals, who buy their wives for a dozen cows, as among the British or American youth who find it convenient to marry a girl with a cool hundred thousand in the bank. I must say that it appeared to me that the natives were hardly treated in Africa ; far more roughly on their native soil than in America, the land of their forced adoption. For instance, in all Soutli Africa there is a curfew law which obliges the African, but not the European, to be at home bafore nine o'clock in the evening ; otherwise, ho is liable to arrest and imprisonment. This law is said to be most beneficial, but it surely bears hard upon the poor fellow who may be going home from a re- ligious meeting, or is called to see a sick friend, and has not reached home before the stroke of n nine. fc JM j j'S- i nr . iHiinniT- ■ ess-a. •'""^'iatUkiSltVi I li iltmi i-'i»-«:«;,^-«a ■■i 226 Fellow Travellers To be sure, a pass from his master or pastor may siive him from arrest, if he has been thoughtful enough to provide himself with one. But change places with the Zulu, my pale-faced brother, and consider how you would like to have some lordly black man regulate your hours of going or coming. Moreover, in many parts of South Africa, if not in all, the natives are not allowed to walk upon the sidewalks, or to ride in the street-cars ; and, if they wish to go by rail, they cannot go in first or second class cars, but must herd to- gether in filthy third or fourth class carriages. On some of the farms they are treated with abominable cruelty, and in many parts of the continent a white man would never be brought to book for killing a " nigger." In short, the black man in his own land has few rights which the white man is bound to re- spect ; and there is no room on African soil for the doctiine that all men were created free and equal. Bad as may be the treatment of the biack man in some other parts of the world, there is no place where he is so shamefully treated as in the land of his birth, the land of which he has been largely despoiled. But there is a brighter side to this picture. There are many earnest Christian people who feel these wrongs and are trying to right them. w>^ The African at Home 227 er or pastor ) has been If with one. y pale-faced uld like to your hours rh Africa, if ved to walk street-oars ; f cannot go list herd to- >s carriages, reated with larts of the be brought rn land has lound to re- can soil for «d free and I the biack rid, there is reated as in hich he has ;his picture, people who right them. Many churches and schools have been estab- lished for the natives, which are doing a splen- did work. Almost all denominations of Chris- tians are alive to the importance of the work among the Africans. Better than all else, in no part of the world, perhaps, is the Spirit of God working more wonderfully than in the American Zulu mission of Natal. For sixty years faithful missionaries of the cross have been laboring in this field, often amid much discour- agement and with small results ; but within a twelvemonth a change has come, the flood-gates have been opened and the showers of grace have followed the drops of divine favor. Heart-searchings and confessions began among the Christians. Especially in the mis- sion schools for young men and women did the work of grace become manifest. Meetings which began at seven o'clock in the evening were continued until three o'clock in the morning, and sometimes until the gray dawn appeared in the eastern sky, and even then it was with difficulty that the missionaries could persuade the penitent young souls to go to their homes and get a little rest before beginning the work of another day. "The sons and the daughters prophesied," and scores and hundreds gave their hearts to Christ. The work spread from mission station to mission station; the missionaries themselves • J iHfli i( '* Hi S i «ll { ■■ bj 228 Fellow Travellers were greatly moved to a new consecration, and preached and labored with hopefulness and joy and success such as they had never known be- fore. As I write, the good work is still going on with ever increasing power. May it spread throughout all the land till darkest Africa be- roines bright. .„, * - ..,,. „;.,» „.^ -. .- . »i ^ A, •tlt^ Mi i M-^f^ ' V%!i<" J*^!^'»{^^Jjj'^^!>^ cratiun, and less and joy r known be- ll going on y it spread t Africa be- XXXVIII THE TWO EKPUBLICS OP THE SOUTHBEN CROSS Two little republics under the Southern Cross have attracted more than their fair share of the world's attention during the last twelve months. These two States are the South African Republic, or the Transvaal, as the land across the river Vaal is indifferently called, and the Orange Free State, to the south of the Transvaal, which took its name from valiant William of Orange, and in honor of its name covers its coat of arms with fruitful orange- trees in full bearing. The South African Republic, it is true, has rather monopolized the world's attention, to the exclusion of its smaller sister. Telegraph wires and cables have been kept hot with news more or less (usually less) authentic, which would have been exceedingly important if true. Its old Dutch president, Johannes Stephanos Paul Kruger, has been treated by reporters and newspaper correspondents as though he was one of the world's great potentates— as indeed he is if a man's power is measured by the amount of commotion he is able to make in the cabinet councils of the nations. His goings out and ' 229 :t ■*-»•• n«rf»*V*S«f»?t*f«i«Uni*!«f»*.* m ■\' I I F ■^*i^ j i i .230 Fellow Travellers his comings in have been recorded, his down- Biltings and his uprisings, and when he sneezes it is almost as though Queen Victoria herself had taken cold. One of the anomalous things of present-day politics is the power which this old, unlettered Boer has been able to exert in the world. I use these adjectives with the utmost respect, simply in the interests of accuracy, for with all his power and deserved influence, the old ruler cf the Transvaal is, from the scholar's ordinary standpoint, one of the most ignorant men who ever sat in a presidential chair. There is but one book which he can read, and that is the Bible. But, it may be asked, how does it hap- pen that if he can read one book he cannot read all books ? The explanation given in the Transvaal is that, being gifted with a remark- ably tenacious memory, he has, from constantly hearing the Bible read in public from his boy- hood up, committed all of its more familiar pas- sages to heart ; so that when he takes up a copy of the Scriptures and his eye lights upon a well- known verse, he can go on indefinitely from memory. Nor can this modern South African Colossus write any better than he can read. To be sure, he can sign his name to public documents, but in somewhat the same way that Osmau the Great, the founder and first sultan of the ■>tf'< •«..«*' ■.fatr^,^Tfp;^^*^^^.^^%m^.^^-f'-Vf^^^'&!^W^ , his dowii- 1 he sneezes aria herself present-day , unlettered e world. I [>st respect, for with all lie old ruler I's ordinary it men who ?here is but that is the ioes it hap- he cannot riven in the [i a remark- I constantly om his boy- aniiliar pas- ;s up a copy upon a well- nitely from an Colossus To be sure, aments, but Osmau the »n of the The Two Republics 231 Osmanli Turks, uoed to sign his name to public (locumentB— by dipping his hand in a saucer of ink and spreading it out on the paper, thus literally making his »iffn manual. Not that President Kruger has not got beyond Osman the First, for he can guide the quill sufficiently to sign his name to papers of state ; but to write one of those papers, or even an ordinary letter, with his own hand, would be quite be- yond his powers, is the story often told in Pretoria. And yet should I leave the impres- sion with my readers that he was simply an ignorant old Boer, it would be a very false im- pression. From the scholar's standpoint, pos- sibly he is that, but from the standpoint of the politician and man of affairs he is one of the shrewd great men of the time. If he cannot write a state document, he can dictate one. He knows what is in every one that he signs, and his native shrewdness enables him to get the better of far more scholarly rulers of mightier realms than his when the interests of his "poor burghers," as he pathetically calls them, are concerned. To call him the Lincoln of South Africa is altogether extravagant praise. He has none of the broad, far-seeing, statesmanlike views of Lincoln; his integrity is far from spotless if common report is not utterly libellous ; and he has little of the brilliant eloquence that made am^m-f^' 23^ Fellow Travellers possible a Gettysburg oration. But he is like Lincoln in this important respect — he knows the common people thoroughly and accurately. He sprang from thora ; he is one of them. With all his wealth and power, he has never set himself above them. When I called upon liim in Pretoria a few weeks ago a young Boer farmer was sitting upon the veranda of the presidential mansion, which, by the way, is a very unpretentious cottage. The young farmer was coUarless and dirty, and his mud splashed brogans showed that he was a son of the soil ; but he evidently felt that there was nothing in his appearance or his clothes which should de- bar him from a familiar interview with his president. The president, too, seemed to be of the same opinion, and they chatted together as unconstrainedly as any two cronies, while the old vrow Madam Kruger, sitting near by, placidly knit her heavy woollen stockings like any venerable housewife of the Transvaal. This is the secret of the power of the Presi- dent of the South African Republic. He is one of the people — a representative Boer; a typical Dutch farmer, with all the limitations and all the sturdiness, conservatism, strong re- ligious feeling, and native common sense of his race developed in an unusual degree. These qualities, too, characteristic in a greater or less degree of the Boers as a race, account for the j;^a;.*'Sc .,.wi!fci.*l(tete^ The Two Republics 233 t he is like -lie knows accurately. ) of them. has never sailed upon roung Boer nda of the I way, is a ung fanner id splashed of the soil ; nothing in I should de- V with his imed to be ed together •nies, while g near by, ckings like isvaal. f the Presi- )lic. He is ^e Boer; a limitations I, strong re- sense of his ree. These >ater or less unt for the prominence of their remote little republic among the greater nations of the world. Here is a new race, a distinct type of mankind, a unique peo- ple that has found its home in the heart of South Africa. Except in the matter of language, they are no more Dutch than the^ are French or Scotch. In fact, many of them dislike and distrust the Holland Dutch more tiian they do the EnglJHh themselves. A large adnjixture of French Huguenot blood flows in the veins of many of them, and many families have French names, corrupted often into their Dutch equiva- lents. In religion the people are far more like the Scotch Covenanters of two centuries ago than like the modern rationalistic, sacerdotal church of Holland. In fact, so alarmed were the Boers some seventy-five years ago at the .spread of rationalistic formalism in their nation that they sent to Scotland for some young ministers who were sound in the faith. Among those who re- sponded to the call was Andrew Murray, the father of the Andrew Murray of the present day— that prince of mystics whose books are read by the whole Christian world. This young Scotchman and his descendants and a few oth- ers of his stamp have wonderfully moulded the religious life of the two republics, and have im- parted a sturdy, God-fearing, Bible-loving char- acter to all their inhabitants. *>*%-'--"^r^ . J I ! J ! I 1 '1 i I I.Ji »34 Fellow Travellers The Puritan type of character is very strongly developed among the Dutch Boers, and this it is which the Rt. Hon. Joseph Chamberlain must reckon with in dealing with that handful of Dutch farmers that inhabit the Transvaal. I do not mean to aver that the Boers are either as intelligent or as morally spotless as the Pil- grim fathers ; and it is very sure that they are not actuated by as lofty religious motives, nor have they been tested by such stern experience as were the Mayflotver'% passengers and their descendants. But they certainly are imbued with the Puritan spirit, with many of its excel- lencies as well as many of its defects, and this spirit makes them a people to be reckoned with by the mightiest of nations. Moreover, it must be borne in mind that they look Vjion the recent hordes of British and An,cricans and Germans — in fact, Uitlanders generally — b« interlojKjrs and usurpers, and that • 'cy have some reason for this opinion. Until gold was discovered on the Rand no one cared for tho Transvaal. The Boers might keep it to thoiiistrflves for all England cared. Who wished for a huge barren sheep-farm where the prickly- pear was the only thing that really seemed to thrive ? Especially undesirable was a great tract of ground where the city of Johannesburg now stands. It was so exceedingly barren that scarcely could the hardy African Bhet>p find .*"i:r;m ^a-,m s » mtn,-^KfSW^ ' OU^ sry strongly , and tluH it 'iianiberluiii hat handful Transvaal. '8 are either i as the Pil- mt they are nutives, nor experience s and their are imbued of its excel- its, and this ikoned with id that they British and Uitluiiders irs, and that ion. Until o one cared >t keep it to >Vho wished the prickly- r seemed to as a great hannesburg barren that shebp find The Two Republics 23 j anything to nibble. On one side was the farm of the Bramble Fountain, on the other, a mile away, the farm of the Thorn Fountain. Their very names were unpromising and hopeless. But one fine morning pay streaks of gold were found on the ridge of land that connected the Bramble Fountain with the Thorn Fountain, and fiom that moment the Transvaal was a dif- ferent place. For weal or woe the old chapter of its poverty stricken history was closed and a new (lolcondu-like chapter was opened, and all eyes were dazzled with visions of unbounded wealth. Then adventurers poured in from all quarters of the globe— British and German, French and Dutch, American and Portuguese. The land which Great Britain would scarcely take as a gift a few years before was the prize of many covetous eyes. The exchequer which had been as bare as Mother Hubbard's cupboard was soon almost bursting with golden guineas. Beggars suddenly became choosers of champagne and truffles, and the poor who walked yesterday were riding in their chaises to-day. Upon the wretched soil of the farms of the Thorn Fountain and the Bramble Fountain arose the stately city of Johannesburg, with its tall brick buildings, its churches, its big hotels, its shops resplendent with plate glass, its elec- tric tramways, its gambling hells and gin-pal- SSSS^^f" ' " mimmmmmmmmmiimmm ti ; i i. = i" I :i I 236 Fellow Travellers aces. In ten years the desert blossomed, not witli tlie rose — nothing so innocent and fragrant as that — but it did blossom into a great "rus- tling," bustling, busy, wicked city of a hundred thousand inhabitants. The mines, which now almost surround tho city, continued to pour out their almost unbounded stores of yellow metal. Some of them pay 120 per cent a year on the capital invested. New mines were constantly opened up, some of tl. na as valuable as the great originals, others of them utterly worthless. Companies were floated with enormous capital, many of them worth about as much as the paper on which the stock certiflcates were printed. Speculation grew wild and ramp \nt. Men lost their heads and women lost fortunes. Kimberley, which in the early days of its diamond mines had passed through a similar era of wild excitement, emptied its adventurers into this new Golconda. Barney Barnato, who, if general rumor is to be believed, laid the foundation of his colossal fortune in illicit dia- mond-buying at Kimberley — which means buy- ing diamonds for a song of natives and others who had stolen them — emigrated to Johannes- burg and became the mighty moneyed magnate of the Transvaal. His partner in the diamond business, Cecil Rhodes, while holding on to his diamond mines, also acquired large interests in Johannesburg, and the little Jew and the big ..■v-'-^-iftAiJ'fSf-'M*^. is;..,.i*:^®,f»ffg- isomed, not ,u(i fragrant great " rus- f a hundred which now to pour out illow metal. year on the '■ constantly ible as the y worthless, ous capital, uch as the cates were id ramp \nt. st fortunes, days of its ;h a similar idventurers >rnato, who, id, laid the 1 illicit dia- means buy- and others ) Johnnnes- 3d magnate he diamond ig on to his interests in md the big The Two Kepublics 237 Englishman were followed by a horde of adven- turers, little and big, all on one thing intent, and that the putting the yellow money of the Transvaal in their purses. It can be imagined that this golden stream which began to flow so suddenly and so un- stintedly should at its flood have swept many an otlierwise stable character o£F its founda- tion. Foreigners were in possession of the mines. Almost before the Boers had rubbed open their drowsy eyelids to see what had hap- pened to their poverty-stricken country, every mine worth opening had bsen claimed by these Egyptians, the UitJanders, and nothing remained to the original inhabitant j of the Promised Land but-to spoil the Egyptians. This, if the Egyp- tians are to be believed, th«y at once proceeded to do. Large sums were charged for all sorts of " concessions." Monopolies were sold to the highest bidder. Dynamite, a necessity in gold- mining operations, was taxed till it was almost ready to explode from sheer indignation. An iniquitous company from Holland built the rail- way which quickly connected the gold-fields with the rest of the world, and immensely over- charged its patrons for transportation. There is no doubt that this sudden rise of the golden flood until it submerged the whole land left behind much foul sediment of corrup- tion and bribery in high places and in low. :--4ir~^m ammti '■if*f^ !:. ! i I 1 l^>i' II '■N •lU.. 238 Fellow Travellers One of the many stoi'ies current in Pretoria, the capital of the Transvaal, relates to the "American spider." Now the American spider, it must be understood, Bpins no film and weaves no web ; it is simply an inoffensive four-wheeled vehicle of light construction, imported from America and much in vogue in South Africa, the vehicle which we should call a buggy. On one occasion a number of the burghers who constitute the Volksraad, or lower house of legislature, voted for a measure which greatly enriched one of their number, whereupon the next morning each one found at his door a brand-new American "spider," shining in its unmarred paint and varnish. When the Volksraad assembled, one of the unbribed minority was noticed clutching in an insane way at imaginary insects on the wall and on the desks of the house of assembly. His queer antics and unsuccessful grabbings after nothing naturally attracted attention, and when asked by his brotherly legislators, who thought he might be seeing reptiles rather than insects, what he was doing, he replied that he was "only trying to catch t spider." Whenever the pre- senter of the "spiders "appears upon the streets to-day, he is greeted by the malicious small boy with cries of " Spider I " " Spider 1 " " How much are American spiders?" Those who think they know, say that even iif«!^gasj?^fgj^.t' Pretoria, ea to the !an spider, nd weaves I r- wheeled rted from th Africa, »ggy- > burghers wer house ich greatly eupon the lis door a ing in its )ne of the hing in an e wall and ibly. His )ings after , and when 10 thought an insects, was "only er the pre- the streets 8inall boy How much that even The Two Republics 239 ♦jhe gray and grizzled president hiniself has Uiidu from grace ; that, devoutly religious as he uiKl.)ubtedly was a score of years ago and as he now is in all outward forms and ceremonies, he IS not above allowing a gift to influence his de- cision, and that through thus spoiling the Ilgyp- tians in various ways be has become enormously wealthy. However tliat may be, it is no doubt true that up to the time of the foolish and iuexcusablo Jameson raid, the Uitlanders had the griev- ances largely on their side. But this disastrous raid utterly turned the balances the other way until the Uitlanders' side kicked the beam. At once public opinion, justice, and the bal- ance of righteousness shifted to the other side ; and the Uitlanders and their cause received a blow from one of their own number from which they will not for years recover. But it must be remembered that Johannes- burg is not the South African Republic, and that the bone and sinew of this republic is made up of sturdy, rough. God-fearing, unpro- gressive, Biblp loving, behind-the-times burgh- ers; good stoc. in spite of their unprogressive niediaevalism, to found an empire upon. This element gives strength and stability to the little republic; this element it is which President Kruger understands so well and interprets so accurately. His burghers believe in his sturdy, i m^ 240 Fellow Travellers !•' I • 1 rugged, God-fearing, if somewhat warped and twisted, character, and he trusts and builds his republic on his burghers. These are the people, far off upon the remote farms and not in the crowded slums of Johannes- burg, that England or any other power would have to reckon with in subduing the South African Republic. These are the kind of people who largely make up the sister republic of the Orange Free State. Happily for the Free State Boers, gold has never been found in large paying quantities within their borders. They have, to be sure, a few diamond fields within their territory ; but the centre of the diamond interest is still in Kimberley, within the limits of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope. The Orange Free State is one of those happy lands without a history — at least without a his- tory tarnished with blood or stained by rapacity or greed. Its people, rough, vigorous, virile, though few in numbers, are strong in the prim- itive virtues of an unspoiled race. Its capital and largest city, Bloerafontein, in a village of five or six thousand inhabitants. I had a pleasant call upon President Steyn, its chief executive, who struck me as a stalwart, honest, earnest man desirous of doing his best and utmost for his little republic. Unlike President Kruger, he is a man of education and "'''•^^■.'S!:*'t-S3f*"^-.SO^*.^" The Two Republics 241 refinement, and would grace any presidential chair. I saw also the opening of the Raad, the leg- islative assembly of the Orange Free State. It is a congress of giants, a parliament of stal- warts. All of its twoscore members average, I am told, over six feet in height. They are broad in proportion and "bearded like the pard." A most impressive sight it was to see these splendid specimens of physical vigor file in and take the oath of allegiance for their new lerra of service. Not a puny one among them ; not a weakling or a human hothouse plant; a senate of farmers it is, with generations of sturdy Dutch blood in its veins. These are the representatives of the people that make South Africa a factor in the family of nations. The English-speaking residents of South Africa are more progressive, more wide-awake, as a class more intelligent, but they have not made South Africa their own as have the Dutch Boers. Said a wise and representative Dutch minis- ter of Cape Colony to me : " South Africa is our home. We have never known any other. We do not want any other. Our supreme allegiance is not to Great Britain ; least of all is it to Holland; it is to South Africa. Here, in the Cape, we are willing to spk'SSif"'] ■Hi 242 Fellow Travellers live for the present under the dominion cf Great Britain, but we do not believe it will last forever. We want to found a nation of our own. The English who come here are "always thinking and talking of ♦ going home.' South Africa is not their home, and they never regard it as such. As soon as one of them makes a little money he hurries off to England to spend it. The thousands of emigrants who are always coming to the Cape come not to found a home, but to make all they can out of the country that they may spend it some- where else. South Africa is owned by absentees. Even the poor people who will never scrape to- gether shillings enough to pay for a steerage passage to Europe are nevertheless always talk- ing about 'going home,' and the colored people with a little English blood in their veins, when they wish to put on airs talk about 'home.' With us Boers it is different. This is our home. We are Africanders. Here our fathers lived and our grandfathers. Here we were born and here we expect to die." The English are superb colonizers. More than any other nation they make the solitary places joyful and the desert to blossom as the rose. No other race can approach them in colonizing and in governing ability. In India and Egypt, in Hong Kong and the Straits they have brought order out of chaos, and in Aus- *im'^^'^j»i^i*Mi^i.'&kiifiimi)u»-M^ The Two Republics 243 tialia and New Zealand the)' have found and peopled new continents. This is their one amiable weakness as colonizers— they never get weaned, even in the third and fourth gen- emtion, from the old home. Admirablo as is this power of Britain to claim the allegiance of all her children even though they wander to the. antipodes, the very affection which they bear to the mother country carries with it this element of weakness when they are brought in contact with a homespun and a home-bred race like the Boers. If a war should arise— which may Heaven forbid !— the Boers would be fighting for home and country, the English for domination and conquest. But war, in my opinion, at present is very unlikely. Great- Britain is too power- ful and President Kruger is too shrewd. The Dutch republics would have little to gain and much to lose by a war which might result in complete independence, but in all probability would result in making all South Africa a British colony. For the present doubtless the status quo will be maintained, and the two little republics of Dutch farmers in central South Africa will complete the century as independent States under " the sphere of British influence." But what changes the new century will bring to the map of South Africa, who can tell ? ^**«filH» f ^» 's.^^fcs ■; ir *^. ' ^ ajc^-ic^iT XXXIX A CALL ON "OOM PAUL ff Premdent Kruger at Home Such an interesting personality has the President of the South African Republic that the story of an interesting call upon him is worth recording. Was it ever seen since the world began that the eyes of the civilized nations were fixed on an old Dutch Boer in the heart of South Africa, an old man who can scarcely read or write, yet has the power by native wit and shrewdness, and a rare conjunction of circumstances, to dictate his own terms to the mightiest empire in the world, and perhaps to set by the ears the nations that represent the highest civilization in the world? Yet this is the position held by that much bepraised and much bespattered man, President Kruger of the South African Republic. Christian Endeavor meetings called me to Pretoria, the capital of his republic, for two days, and during those days I saw the old president three times. Since he will be a marked character in the history of the last 84: ':^Zi-''. v,3i5Cn;,-:r Kf-^Ea-sesasKWEn «&iui)t£uir%r&rMse!:^,'i A Call on "Oom Paul" 245 two decades of the nineteenth century, what- ever the outcome of the present troubles may be, the impressions left by these glimpses of the old Boer president are worth recording. The fii-st time I saw him he was returning from the outskirts of the town in his carriage, and the only impression I received was of royal display that scarcely comported with repub- lican simplicity. Before him galloped half a dozen armed troopers, and behind him as many more bearing the colors of the republic, while out of the carriage-window beamed the face of an old man. A passing glance would lead one to think that he was the last man to hold the destiny of a considerable section of the earth's surface in his hands. If the president of the United States should put on such style as " Oom Paul " displays in his daily drives, he would be laughed at as a snob and an aristocrat; but then, the president of the Transvaal may claim, with some show of reason, that since the Jame- son raid a body-guard is no mere ornamental appendage. My next view of this historic old man was at closer quarters. He was going to his executive office in the Volksraad, or State House of the Transvaal. The inevitable troopers galloped before, grounded arms, and saluted as the old president alighted from his carriage, and made his way with bent back, but strong and sturdy i/.^-ck M ^^ 24^) Fellow Travellers steps, tip the Bteps and along the passage to his f)ftice. Should you meet him in Cabbagelown, Eng- land, or in Wayback, U. S. A., you would say : " There is a good, common-sense farmer. lie is probably a deacon in the orthodox church ; and, when work on the farm is slack, he is not above sitting on a cracker-box and discussing turnips with the other magnates of the village store." But such a man must be judged at home. He d(!es not shine on dress parade, or in circles whf.ro you expect pomp and circumstance and court etiquette, it must be confessed. In both Uk merican and the English senses of the word, he is a " homely " man, and I was for- tunate enough to have a chat with him under bin own vine and fig-tree. Armed with no letters of intniduotion, which in the circumstances would have been quite superfluous, I went under the convoy of Pastor Bosman, one of the worthy and learned Dutch Reformed ministers of Pretoria. Imagine a low, one-story, gable roofed cottage, embowered in trees and vines, and standing close to one of the principal streets of a rather straggling and unkempt village : and you will picture to yourself the abode of one of the most famous men of modern times. It looks like anything but the abode of royalty, or even of A Call on "Oom Paul" 247 a high rei)ublican dignitary; and, if it were not for the two sohliers before the door, you woukl .uppose that you were entering tho lioino of one of earth's toilers ; say an engineer on a railway or a country parson. Before the door are the famous marble lions presented by Barney Barnato, the great South African speculator. From the artistic point of view they will not detiin us long from the genuine lion of South Africa, who sits there in all d luocratic simplicity in a wicker chair upon his front porch, smoking a long briarwood pipe. If President Kruger seems to put on rather an undu(! amount of royal style and dignity when on the street, it cannot be said that he carries it too far when lie passes his own front gate. Nothing could be more simjjle or more primitively democratic. No cards are required, no liverieil flunky receives you, no etiquette or formality bars the way. You simply walk past the guards, step up on the veranda, stretch out your hand, and say, " How do you do, Mr. President?" If you can say it in Dutch, so much the better, for President Kruger speaks no other tongue. As y^u take his cordially outstretched hand, you see that he is by no means an impressive- looking man. An old man of fully threescore and fifteen, if we may judge by his looks, what- ever the family Bible says, in a blue suit some- "■«•»■•- :;3rr)ps>«B«siESSS - ~^ mmtd 248 Fellow Travellers V'. what tl.e worse for tie wear, and an antiqnated beaver l.at,-in which he mnst do evor> thu.g but Bleep, for he always appears in it,— stands before you. Under his chin and around his ca- pacious neck is a fringe of white whiskers, such as the irreverent small boy in America would call "galways." A stubby length of beard of four days' growth does not adorn his face, and his good-natured blue eyes twinkle ovc ^n un- deniably bulbous nose. My kind friend, Pastor Bosman, introduced me as " Dr. Clark, from America." " Ah," said the president in Dutch, " are you one of those Americans who always run to the Queen when you get into trouble?" To show me at the same time that he was not very serious, he turned around with a chuckle, and before I could answer him through my interpreter, gave me a hearty slap on the shoulder. When Mr. Bosman told him of my life-work, and that my present visit to Pretoria was iu connection with the Christian Endeavor move- ment, he replied : - Ah, that is good. I love all those who love the Lord Jesus Christ. Wheri we love Christ, there is a link that binds us all together." Then I told him that in America, too, we re- joiced in having a Christian president, that we had often been thus favored, and that ex-Presi- A Call on "Oom Paul" 249 .iqnated irytliiiig — staiuU (1 hit) ca- n's, such !a would beard of ace, and , An un- troduced " are you Lin to the it he was I with a 1 through ip on the life-work, ria was iu vor move- I love all t. When inds us all too, we re- it, that we ,t ex-Presi- dent Harrison's cabinet was even called in pleasantry "a Presbyterian cabinet," there were so many Presbyterian elders in it. " I am glad you have such good rulers," said the old man ; " for the nation that fears God and obeys him is the only prosperous nation." Remembering that Prfsident Kruger was converted under the preaching of Mr. Lindley, one of the pioui cr missionaries of the American Jioard to Africa, I told him that I belonged to the same church in America as did Mr. Lind ley. At this the old man's eyes glistened, for he loves and reverences tlio memory of his spiritual father; and he said witli genuine warmth: "Ah, he was a good man, he was a good man. He preached Jesus Christ. We all need Christ's strength " ; and again he repeated, " Those of us who love him whatever our creed, should love one another." A young Boei, nnkempt and slouching, and evidently jnst from the back country, was waiting U ntm Com (uncle) Paul, as all the Boers affejtioir -.ly call the president of the Kepublij, fad i. !ii not trespass long upon his time. Wii'i » .'?m-diov I and-shakt) he hade me good- by, I'hJ i *veiri n the steps between Harney li• < < 0^ I I - iij: 1^ , ,■* .~' ^i*-'*»-*^:* - ■ In the Orange Free State 253 little republic, but hurried on to Cape Colony. Before crossing the border I had to be very thoroughly disinfected, lest I should bring with uie the dreaded rinderpest, which has swept off the cattle of the Transvaal. First I was fumi- gated ; then my boots were soaked in diluted carbolic acid, and my clothes were brushed off with the same ; and then all my belongings, down to a trunk-strap and umbrella, were fumi- gated for half an hour; and after that I was allowed to cross the border. So you see that travelling in South Africa in this year of war and locusts and rinderpest has its peculiarities, to say the least. Two very pleasant days I spent in East Lon- don in the Old Colony, i. e., the Cape of Good Hope. How familiar " the Old Colony " sounds in Massaciiusetts ears! East London, beautiful for situation, must be considered one of the Christian Endeavor centres in South Africa, since it has three so- cieties, two Presbyterian and one Baptist, with u good prospect of two cir three more Juniors bef(tre long. Tint inuotiiigH witro well altc/ided, and there was nmregonuine Christian Endeavor enthusiasm tlian I have always seen. But everywhere in this continent it is the day of very small things CluiHtiaii E;idoavor-wise, a/id the few here who are inl«reB»ed have to remind themselves, "God hath wiouglit large tim.'gs f\ 254 Fellow Travellers through Christma Endeavor in other lands; vhy not in Africa?" Is South A fnca an ex- fJnn to every other land, and the only Tu ;To wMch Christian Endeavor is un- fit" d^^ I cannot believe it. and, though these ! Ihe days in .any places "o^ -en of^eed^ sowing, but of laborious sod-breaking, I believe the harvest will come. f- ** lands ; a an ex- he only r is un- gh these of seed- 1 believe XLI HOW BISHOP TAYLOR BEAD THE BIBLE A Memory of Family WorMp At Lovedate, South Africa As I have before said, one of the most inter- esting places in all South Africa is Lovedale, in the colony of the Cape of Good Hope. Far from a railway, it must be reached by a bone- racking, seven hours' jolt in a post carfr. But it is well worth the journey, were it ten times as long and hard ; for here in the heart of South Africa is an institution which fulfils all one's ideals of what a Christian mission school should be, a school which does, not forget that it is Christian because it is scholarly. Substantial building, modern appliances, wide-awake teachers, and a constituency of pupils drawn from almost every part of Africa, make it attractive. Kaffirs, Fingoes, Bechu- anas, Basutos, Zulus, West Coast Africans, dwellers in the Congo, and I do not know how many other tribes here send their boys, the picked youth of Africa. Most of them under- stand either Kaffir or Sesuto, as the language of the Basutos is called. Of course Lovedale has its leading spirit, as every such place must have, some one whom 365 Si T 256 Fellow Travellers God has raised up to "^^^^^ /* ^^.f ^^^ J" -/" this case, as every one in Africa ^»"; admit, it is Dr James Stewart, of the Free Church Mis- Bion, who, more than a generation ago came Lovedale, here to embody his ideas of a Ch.is- tian education. ^v a #•/»«" " There are three great men in South Africa, said one of his enthusiastic admirers to me one d'y -sir Cecil Rhodes. President Paul Kruger. 3' Dr. James Stewart." and, if fr. Stewart s fellow teachers and pupils could decide the matter. Dr. Stewart's name, like Abou Ben Adhem's. would lead all the rest. But it is not altogether of Dr. Stewart that I would write in this article, but of still another remarkable man who has done much to make the Dark Continent brighter. I had been cor^ dially invited by Dr. Stewart to speak to the hundreds of pupils of lovedale concerning Christian Endeavor and its possibilities of serv- ice for the young, and at the same time to make hTs hospitable home my own. Whom should I find already domiciled as a guest in tha,t home but the venerable Bishop William Taylor the evangelist of four continents, whose name, how- ever, will ever be indissolubly linked with the last continent to which he has given his man- hood's strength and his declining days ? A most venerable figure is Bishop Taylor, with a long, gray beard sweeping a stalwart I , is. :o mit, it is rch Mis- came to a Chris- Africa," ine one 1 Kruger, Stewart's icide the bou Ben art that I 11 another L to make been cor- ak to the oucerning es of serv- le to make n should I that home raylor, the name, how- sd with the jn his man- jrs? op Taylor, a stalwart Hf w Taylor Read the Bible 257 chest, a smile that is sweet and benignunt, and a step that, when occasion requires, is still brisk and sprightly. One of the most vivid scenes, photographed on my memory, of three memorable days at Lovedale, was of family prayers on the morn- ing when Bishop Taylor was asked to lead. There sat the venerable bishop with the big Bible open on his knee. Near by sat Dr. Stew- art, the companion and friend of Livingstone and Moffat and Drummond and almost every other man who has come to shed light on dark- est Africa. In other parts of the large room sat Mrs. Stewart and five of her seven charm- ing daughters, the mother, if she will allow me to say so, looking almost as young and quite as charming as any of them. In a row together sat the four or five Kaffir servants of the es- tablishment, representatives of the dark tribes to whom both Dr. Stewait and BishopTaylor have devoted their lives. The bishop is troubled with bronchitis, which has affected his voice not a little (only tempo- rarily, let us hope), and he speaks, perhaps to save breath, in a peculiarly abrupt, not to say jerky, way, often omitting his pronouns and articles, and chopping off his racy sentences so that they shall contain no superfluous words. But this methitd only adds a new piquancy to his commentary, as with the strong common 2-^-8 Fellow Travellers Bense and picturesque imagery which mad. him o popuJamong the '49ers of Ca Ufonna he Spanish Americans of South America, and the SL^rs of Australia as well as among the dwellers on the Congo and the Zambezi u. later years, he opens up the Scriptures Literally "opens up. I have »>eara phrase used many times, but I ^-e seldom < Lly understood its meaning. It was as if the g"ood bishop pulled off cover after co-Jr- caskets containing the jewels of G^d s word and showed us the heaps of gems beneath. 1 can but very faintly reproduce that exposition; L you must be in Lovedale in the midst of the sTewart family, and hear the good bishops tol! to understand it fully; but let me do as ^ThTpaTage he chose was the familiar one hundred and third Psalm. "a man, on. fine da,, had a talk w.th h.m- self" began the bishop in his abrupt way. «Had a conversation «ith himself. Here ,, .rathe said. 'Bless the Lord.' Heeountsi.p le ben'X-flve thing, the Lord has g.ven Wm, fir^t, pardon,. forgiveth all thine .n,qm- t^ • , seeJd, health. • healeth all thy d.se..e» •. Mrd redemption, 'redeemeth 'by .fe.= 'o b mercies, -crowneth the. wth cm ;«'*■»"» faction, 'satisfielh thy mouth' even; then ot rurse tby «.ul. Give, thee youth in old age. How Taylor Read the Bible i^i) mado liim oiuia, the J, and the imong the •zi ill later leard that seldom so 18 as if the cover from od's word, )eneath. I exposition ; nidst of the )d bishop's et me do as iamiliar one ik with him- ibrupt way. If. Here is He counts up •d has given thine iniqui- hy diseases ' ; life'; fourth, ' ; fifth, satis- iren; then of th in old age. Juat what we oM men want. Youth like the eagle's, too, soaring, aspiring, glorious youth." ♦ ♦•**♦ Thus the exposition went on, something fresh, quaint, or piquant about each verse. The ninth verse is reached. " He will not always chide ; neither will he keep his anger forever." "'Look here, my soul,' David says, 'you need chiding.' The Lord knows he did, too ! 'But God will not nag you. He will not scold, much as you deserve it. He treats you a great sight better than you deserve.' ' He hath not dealt with us after our sins.' " And now he tells us how much God loves us. First, the perpendicular measurement, * as the heaven is high above the earth ' ; second, the horizontal measurement, 'as far as the east is from the west ' ; third, the affectionate meas- urement, 'like as a fathar pitieth his children '; fourth, the measurement of tare and tret. Ho makes allowances. He knows how earthy and dusty we are. ' He remembereth that we are dust.' " Then David reminds himself how little and frail he is. Grass. Flowers. The red poppy in the field. Swish goes the scythe. Where is it? Even if there is no scythe, a breath of wind comes, and the poppy is gone. So man's life. ' But, O soul,' says David, ' if your earthly life is short, your real life stretches between two t ^•^o ^•'> ^^x. ^^r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 7, 1.0 I.I 1.25 • 50 Iris |S6 P!S« 112 my 22 It" 1^ 12.0 1.4 1= 1.6

^'m-R%j«a'^>^^ ' ^^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 !2 1? Ilia 1.6 1.4 2.0 1= 1.6 «5>. cS ¥^'W '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ii j^ l l^)ji"ii;iS 'i i , » j git w..u;_wV ^t> Jiiijg|Wjj^^^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICIVIH microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques SEWSff^-KSW!-!!!^ 26o Fellow Travellers everlastings. God'a mercy is from everlasting to everlasting.* How far is it between two everlastings? When you can find out, you know how long your real life and how wide God's mercy is. " No wonder it takes angels and ministers and all his works in all places to bless the Lord for such mercy. Ends as he begun. Beautiful frame all around picture. * Bless the Lord, O nay soul.' '•* "Let us pray." f' - • ;^ After a fervent prayer we rose from our knees and went our several ways, the one to his classroom, another to his books, another to her housework, but all better fitted for our duties because of this refreshing morning draught at the fountain of God's mercy. I will not promise that I have quoted accu- rately every word and turn of thought of the good bishop, for it was some weeks afterward, on the long voyage through tropic seas from Cape Town to Southampton, when I first had opportunity to write out my scanty notes. But i feel confident that in some measure I have caught the spirit of that hour of morning wor- ship in Lovedale, and to a large extent have re- membered the bishop's phrases, for his are winged arrows that stick. As they take flight once more in these columns, may they again find their mark. - • verlasting reen two out, you liow wide listers and J Lord for Beautiful le Lord, O from our )he onu to another to d for our morning •cy. loted accu- ght of the afterward, seas from I first had lotes. But ure I have irning wor- int have re- br his are take flight they again XLII THB world's 6RXAT DIAMOND VAULT " One of the most unique places on the earth is Kimberley, in South Africa. There is situ- ated the world's great diamond vault. The exciting thing about the vault is the uncertainty of its contents. No one knows how deep it may be, or how many hundreds of millions' worth of diamonds it may contain. Its length and width, however, have been pretty accural 'y determined; and twenty-five years of caretul prospecting have proved with some degree of certainty that no other such great vault exists in South Africa, and probably in no other part of the world. The diamonds of India and Brazil have paled their ineffectual fires before the blink Klippe (bright eyes) as the Dutch Boers call them, of Kimberley. It was in the year 1867 that the first "bright eye " was found on a table in Schalk Van Niekerk's farmhouse, in the Hopetown district of South Africa, south of the Orange River. The man who made the discovery bore the unrom?\ntic name of O'Reilly, proclaiming in his very patronymic that a son of the Emerald Isle had found a stone more precious than emeralds. I have said he found 961 -:!■ ?im^QiAi^&m..r 262 Fellow Travellers it on the farmhouse table, but the children cf the house had previously found it in the dry river-bed, and had brought it with other "pretty stones " to the farm, when fortunate O'Reilly, trader and hunter, saw it. This find naturally set others to searching for blink KUppei, espe- cially when it became known that a competent authority declared Mr. O'Reilly's Bton« worth $2,C0O at the least. Here and there other "bright eyes" were found. Some children picked a few out of the mud wall of their father's house. The mud of which this wall was made naturally became an object of inter- est, and more diamonds were found in it. Thus in various ways interest and expectation were kept alive. A native witch-finder proved to be a diamond- finder as well, for in his possession was discov- ered a pure brilliant of the first water, weigh- ing eighty-three and one-half cjirats, and sold afterward to the Countess of Dudley tor £25,- 000. For yeai;i the witch doctor had used the stone as a charm, and perhaps on this account the possession of the "Star of South Africa" is said to make the present owner more charm- ing and bewitching than ever. Of course there were not wanting those who " pooh-poohed " the whole idea of diamonds in Kimberley. One ot these sapient individuals, a geologist, J. R. Gregory by name, advanced lildien cf I the dry r '♦ pretty O'Reilly, naturally >pe8, espe- iompetent »n« worth are other children i of their this wall t of inter- lit. Thus ktion were I diamond - ras discov- ter, weigh- i, and sold Y ioT £25,. ,d used the lis account ih Africa" jore eharni' those who iiamonds in individuals, i, advanced The Great Diamond Vault 263 the astounding theory that these diamonds were brought in the crops of ostriches from some far-off and unknown land. Moreover, he proved beyond a peradventure, from the geo- logical character of the district, " which he bad lately and very carefully examined," that it was impomble that diamondt had been or ever could be found there. And yet in about a year from the publication of that absolutely convincing statement, on this very ground the greatest diamond mines which the world has ever known were discovered — mines which yield every year more than twenty million dollars' worth of dia- monds. This brilliant geologist deserves to rank with the equally brilliant scientific roan who demonstrated so conclusively that a ship driven by steam could never cross the Atlantic Ocean, whose treatise, as cruel fate would have it, was carried across the ocean on the ^ery steamships which he demonstrated could not go. But it is of more interest to know how the dia- mond fields look to-day. Imagine one of the most dreary spots on the earth's surface, as it is by nature, not as man has improved it ; an im- mense, wind-swept table land, more than four thousand feet above the sea-level, parched in summer and occasionally drowned out in winter, an arid desert plain fit for cactus shrubs and prickly-pears, and ostriches and goats that can digest pebbles anu thorn -bushes ; a portion of 264 Fellow Travellers tl»e earth's surface which thirty years ago the ' boldest prophet would ne^er have ventured to predict could ever suppori a hundred white men 1 Here, to-day, you find a thriving city of thirty thousand people, stores and churches and schools, tennis-courts and football fields, cycle- tracks and clubhouses, and all the evidences, good, bad and indifferent, of modern civiliza- tion. The first thing that attracts your attention as you roll into Kimberley on the rails of the very moderate aad leisurely Cape Government railway, are the tall chimneys and shafts and " head-gear " for hoisting the " blue " diamond- iferous soil from the vasty depths beneath. But such machinery, housed in ungainly build- ings, is common to all mining camps, gold, sil- ver, copper or diamond ; and the first real pe- culiarity of Kimberley is the vast " floors" cov- ered with a grayish blue soil, which stretch for miles along the railway line. These floors are fields, six miles in extent, on which have been dumped the diamondiferous ground. Forty thousand loads a week are laid down on these floors, each load averaging one carat of dia- monds, worth almost seven dollars. That great field is a veritable Golconda. In that unprom- ising-looking dirt are tens of thousands of sparkling gems, worth millions of dollars — dia- monds \n hite and lustrous, diamonds yellow and I ago the itured to ed white iig city of rches aud ds, cycle- ividences, 1 oiviliza- attention iilB of the )verninent shafts and ' diamond- i heneath. inly build- B, gold, sil- rst real pe- loors"cov- stretch for e floors are I have been ind. Forty jra on these irat of dia- That great lat unprom- lousands of loUara— dia- 8 yellow and The Great Diamond Vault 265* orange, and perhaps pink, most rare and valu- able of all; little diamonds aud big diamonds, some of them worth a king's ransom. Perhaps— who knows?— the biggest and most valuable gem the world has ever seen is glitter- ing under that dull clod yonder. Then why not step over that wire fence which alone keeps you from the floors and help yourself? Not quite so fast, my friend ! It is altogether im- probable that you would find anything if you did step over into the floor ; for diamonds, like some valuable and precious characters that I have known^ keep very much out of sight. The diamonds are mostly imbedded in that hard soil which must lie for weeks in the open air before it can be pulverized and washed. A steam harrow, constantly runnin,; over it, has- tens the process of disintegration ; and it is a long, slow, tedious operation to get the jewels out; for — again to moralize for a moment — diamonds, like other things most precious, are not to be had for the asking. Moreover, if you should attempt to step over that wire rope more than one pair of keen eyes would be upon you, and probably more than one threatening pistol-barrel would be levelled at your offending head. If by any chance you should find a diamond by the roadside, or should have one given you, the best thing you could do would be to throw it away, though it be ^^^^^m^^^Mi^&i4i^f^i-»»^~' L "1 266 Fellow Travellers the Kohinoor itself; f.»r the one unpardonable Bin iu Kiinberley is to have a rough diamond in your possession if you are not a licensed dm- mond-dealer. Murder, arson, burglary, assault, are all trivial crimes on the diamond fields com- pared v^ith the one sin which has a whole set of initials all to itself-the sin of "I. D. B, or, to speak less enigmatically. Illicit Diamond Buying. , . * So we will not step across the wire fence, but go on to that great building where the soil is washed and the gravel sorted. We produce the indispensable pass, the armed sentry lets us within the building, and now we are deafened by the din of machinery that takes the precious soil into its capacious cylinders, and disinte- grates it, and shakes it about, and washes it, and then discharges the washed gravel dia- monds and garnets into a very ingenious ma- chine called the pulsa«or, where, by a constant throbbing, pulsating motion, the diamonds and heavy pebbles are shaken to the bottom, while the light stuff which contains no gems floats off on the top. In the bottom of the pulsators are wire meshes of different diameters, which sort the pebbles into heaps of about the same size. But an untechnical writer need not try to describe complicated machinery to untechnical readers. Let us hasten on to the most interesting room ardonable I diamond ensed din- 'y, assault, Belds com- whole set I. D.B.," t Diamond vire fence, 3re the soil ^e produce itry lets us :e deafened he preciona nd disinte- w ashes it, gravel dia- ;enious ma- j a constant amonds and ittom, while gems floats rs are wire ich sort the ne size. But f to describe lical readers, resting room The Great Di^morid Vault 267 of all. Here, on both sides of long tables, sit fifty men with heaps of the washed gravel be- fore them. Who knows the untold wealth that may lie in those heaps of little wet stones? Each man has a steel knife of a peculiar shape and a tin box, not unlike a child's mite-box, with a slit in the top. With his knife he deftly spreads out the little stones on the table, with his quick eye sees the precious gems, which he picks out and drops into his mite box. The superintendent takes ofif the covers of some of the boxes and lets us look within. See, it is half full of diamonds, the result of the morning's work alone ! Here is a man sorting larger gravel, and his tin box contains forty large diamonds I Another by his side is search- ing in a pile of medium sized gravel, and he has more smaller ones, while still another has a heap of minute brilliants, not much larger than a pin-head, in his tin box. Again the gravel is sorted over by convicts, who cost the company only a shilling a day ; and still more diamonds, overlooked in the first sorting, are rescued by them from the debris before it is cast out on the ever-accumulating mountain of " tailings." Now, readers mine, set your guessing wits to work, and tell me how many dollars' worth of diamonds have been sorted this morning by the dozen white men and forty convicts behind the tables. Do .you give it up? Then I will tell ' " V.SIi " ''''^."''""" "•.«•»- ■- ^-|-. •»■ -■ .- - r--iiiriir<'.h I ll Ml' t ih 268 Fellow Travellers you. No less than sixty thousand dolbrs worth ! And this is the average find, y«ar in and year uut, from nature's inexhaustible vault at Kimberley. Since these mines were dis- covered sixty-five millions of carats, valued at four hundred and seventy-five millions of dol^ lavs, have b.en dug out and washed and sorted at these mines. As about five million carats go to a ton, nearly fifteen tons' weight of pure diaraonds have been exported, and how many thousands ot tons remain to be won no man is wise enough to say ; for the bottom of the vault has not been sounded, and the deeper the diggings go the richer they are, as though in nature's great jewel box the best diamonds had settled to the bottom, like the plums ui a pud- ^The largest diamond of South Africa, how- ever, wp-s not found at Kimberley, but at Jag- ersfonte, in the Orange Free State. This is said to be "the largest and most valuable dia- mdnd in the world." Its gross weight is nine hundred and sixty-nine and one-half carats, the color is blue-white, and the quality very fine. "Its value cannot possibly be estimated' ; for it must be remembered that though diamonds of ordinary size have a recognized market value of from seven to one hundred dollars per carat, according to fineness, quality, color, etc., when the stone goes above one hundred carats ito ■»;Wi~:— >.*- i >-- - ! f Mi ■;li 11; i XLIII UNTO THE THIBD AND FOURTH GBNEBATION Some families seem to be chosen of God, as are some men, to accomplish a unique and no- table work in the world. Such families are the Adams, the Harrisons, and the Beecher families of America, such are a half-dozen that might be mentioned in England, such pre-eminently is the Murray family of South Africa. It is not often, indeed, that God honors a family by committing to it the evangelization of a continent, but it is scarcely too much to say that this is the higL and unusual honor be- stowed upon Andrew Murray the First, of Scot- land, and his descendants. I say Andrew Murray the First, for there is now Andrew Murray the Second, the most fa- mous of the succession, whose devotional books are read every day in a multitude of homes ; and Andrew the Third, who has devoted his life to the natives of Nyassaland. Several Andrews the Fourth are on the way, if I am not mistaken, though they are not yet out of knickerbockers. Every part of South Africa has felt the in- fluence of the Murray family from the Zambezi 872 ill:' '''- ijSS l ijtH i m i e^iij^r «t K i iV* ^f4P^jli0>fti-i t«4K^>rvKM£'«'i*^<«M«TC*S!|!«S.\itft!f*j.-p»j)[,'j^vi'^« • - r i n t ^-^4* 274 Fellow Travellers tors gave to his descendants this verse, whioh has been the covenant promise of the South African branch of the family :— "As for me, this i» my covettant mth them, laiih the Lard : My ^rit thai it upon thee, and my words which I have put in thy mouth, ahaa not depart out of thy mouih, nor out of th3 mouth of thy aeed, nor otU of the mouth of thy teed'a teed, aaith the Lord, from henceforth and forever." " I was much surprised," said the Rev. An- drew Murray of Wellington, when visiting Canada a few years ago, " to find that another branch of the family who emigrated to tlie Dominion about the time my father came to Africa had a similar covenant verse for their own, though neither branch of the family had previously known anything about the other". Their c ivenant was recorded in Deut. 7:9: "Know, therefore, that the Lord thy God, he is God, the faithful God, which keepeth covenant and mercy with them that love him and keep his commandments to a thousand generations." See how similar are the oovenant verses, though the wide Atlantic and eighty de- grees of latitude stretched between the two branches of this godly family. Andrew Murray the First came to Cape Town about the year 1820, and was very soon assigned to the pastorate of the important church in Graaf Reinet, then as now one of the most important towns of Cape Co? ny. But I ii>>»iwm«»i iiiiniiKMiiimimii'iniwiii i«r out of the ('« seed, taith Rev. An- il visiting \t another :d to the r came to for their amily had lie other" .7:9: thy God, 1 keepeth love him thousand 9 covenant eighty de- i the two I to Cape very soon important one of the ay. But Third and Fourth Generation 275 before he started for his new pastorate, which then involved a serious journey of several weeks by horse ov bullock-cnrt from Cape Town, a romantic event occurred, which was destined to have an incalculable influence upon the desti- nies of the Murray family of South Africa. Tiiis event was nothing else than a case of genuine love at first sight. The young dom- inie, while in church at Cape Town (whether in the pulpit or the pew deponent saith not) was struck by the fresh and lovely face of a young Dutch-speaking girl of Huguenot extraction. He made inquiries, found that she was as good as she was pretty, and (we pass over the easily supplied preliminaries) earned her o£f to the Graaf Reinet parsonage, bis sixteen-year-old bride. Before she was seventeen she was the mother of John, afterward Professor John Murray of Steilenbosch, a revered and beloved professor of Theology, recently deceased. Then followed in rapid succession sixteen other children of whom I think twelve lived to grow up. The following is an incomplete list ; An- drew the second, famous now the world around for his saintly life and writings ; William, the greatly beloved pastor of Worcester, Cape Colony; Maria, the wife of Pastor Neethling of Stellenbo9c;h, the university town of South Africa; Charles, honored as was his father whom he has succeeded in the pastorate of the JsfS^- -/? .fl il 11 :i. Mi 'I i .^£La 276 Fellow Travellers beautiful church of Graaf Reinet ; Jeminia, now Mrs. Louw, the wife of a ministar and mother of other niiiiistero ; Isabella (Mrs. Hoff- rueyer), a name beyond most others revered in South Africa ; James, a farmer brother whose health alone prevented him from studying for the ministry and who now has charge of the old homestead at Graaf Reinet; George, the pastor of another important church of Cape Colony; Helen, the efficient principal of a splendid school for young ladies at Graaf Reinet ; and Eliza (another Mrs. Neethling), a widow, who with her accomplished daughters haa opened another flourishing school. Oar space will not allow us to call the roll of the third generation. If we could do so, more than a hundred grandchildren would respond, many of whom are active and earnest ministers or missionaries o ministers' wives. Even the fourth generation alieady has not a few repre- sentatives, and all with their faces Zionwards. Each married child of Andrew the First has blessed the world on an average with about a dozen children, and some with more. Thus John has had sixteen, / ndrew eleven, William twelve, Mrs. Neethling eleven, Charles fourteen, and George fifteen. I have never seen a more attractive photograph than the family group of Rev. George Murray and his wife and their fif- teen hearty, stalwart, handsome boys and girls. V' ^^S3SSvSfSs:fseivrg^s'-ii:^x,iiSg:f;stii jPiHSr^^^X^^flUtg Bl^ ii P Tlft jr*- !ffr^ II, ,1l*L< Jemin'ia, listar and Mrs. Ho£F- ■g revered her whose idying for ^e of the sorge, the of Cape ipal of a at Graaf ithling), a daughters the roll of > so, more I rAspond, I ministers Even the few repre- !ionwards. First has ;h about a re. Thus 1, William i fourteen, len a more Y group of d their fif- and girls. Third and Fourth Generation 277 An example this for the puny, degenerate families of the present in Old England and New England alike, where a little brood of two are sometimes counted two too many. But to return to the old Dutch parsonage of Graaf Reinet to which Andrew Murray the First brought his sixteen-year-old bride when the century was young. Never were children more fortunate in their mother than the numer- ous Murray children. Not that this is par- ticularly to their credit, perhaps, but it was greatly to their advantage. Hers was one of those sweet, persuasive natures which mould and guide and bless without seeming to know it themselves, certainly without conscious effort. When asked how it was that her children had all turned out so well, she answered, " Ob, I don't know, /didn't do anything." But e"ery one else knew, if she did not. She jmt lived hertelf the life she wanted her boy$ and girls to live. Her life was " hid with Christ in God," and they, through her, saw the beauty of holi- ness. Much of the mystic element which ap- pears in the life and writings of her famous son was undoubtedly derived fro m his mother, who, while in the world, was not altogether of it. " Her chief characteristic," said one of her chil- dren to me, " was a happy contentment with her lot." She was always exactly where she wished to bs, because she was where her Father r. '^''■ ^ '■^i^^!if'i ^S £^ M k m, ^ m 278 Fellow Travellers ill Heaven had placed her. She outlived her hus- band, Andrew Murray the First, by many years, and only a few years ago was laid in the grave by the hands of loving children and grandchildren. Many are fhe stories still extant concerning this sweet and tender little mother in Israel. One day one of her children found her helping her grand- children in some charades they were playing, making masks and dressing themselves up in grotesque fashion. •♦ Why, grandma," said this daughter in feigned surprise, " are you helping in duch worldly things as charades? I'm shocked at you." " Yes, my dear," she replied, " I think the Lord Jesus would like me to make the children happy in this way." She was very fond of good stories, and would often sit up half the night when interested. She was some- what asham d of this weakness, as she con- sidered it, and did not realize that it was but a natural craviug of her sympathetic nature. But all her children realized that her wonder- ful serenity and gentleness and loveliness of character came not a little from the hours of long communion when she looked up into the face of the Invisible and thus learned to endure as seeing him. If the Murray children were fortunate in thcii mother, they were scarcely less fortunate in their home. Imagine a beautiful oasis in a stony, forbidding desert, and you have a mental V#tj-3.rf^^,^*«S(»*«^^';A*» W**>1 g-t5^. g r - sJ r .:;j\v,t,i «! Mawaaa' was some- is she con- t was but a tic nature, er wonder- veliness of be hours of lip into the 1 to endure Ttunate in 3 fortunate 1 oasis in a ^e a mental Third and Fourth Generation 279 picture of Graaf Reinet where they were all born and brought up. The Karoo, as it is called, is a famous district of South Africa, arid, parched, streamless, the natural home of the ostrich and a hardy breed of sheep that live on the Karoo bush. It has, to be sure, a certain barren beauty all its own, a beauty which Olive Schreiner has best described. But Graaf Reinet does not need the pen of an Olive Schreiner to describe its beauty, for it is indeed the "GeTi of the Karoo." A fertilizing stream runs through the town, making every street green with trees, and every garden to laugh with luxuriant bloom. Around it tower the cirious, square-topped hills, typical of South Africa, and on every side is the desert. Perhaps the finest garden in Graaf Reinet is that of the old Dutch parsonage. In this parsonage all the Murray children were born, and in this garden they all grew up. In the garden are forty difltereut kinds of grape-vines all loaded with luscious branches when I saw the Ji. At one time, be- fore the phylloxera did its deadly work, there were sixty varieties. One of these vines is fully three feet in girth, and is said to be the largest vine in South Africa, if not in the world. So abundant is the fruit that a "Christian Endeavor grape social" is one of the distin- guishing features of the Graaf Reinet social year. Once a year all the Christian Endeav- i I I I i k i i '•:^^'f •• :sssamm 280 Fellow Travellers v! '( ] orers of Graaf Reinet, at the invitation ol Rev. Charles Murray, the present proprietor, turn themselves loose in the garden and eat their fill, but after the hungry boys and girls have gone Mr. Murray tells me you would scarcely know the fruit had been touched, so much is there of it. Besides grapes, you will find in this famous garden peaches, apricots, plums, and pears and cherries, tamarinds and loquats, pomegranates bursting their too full sides and displaying their ruby contents, date palms throwing down a shower of yellow fruit, al- monds and walnuts, and I do not know how many other luscious fruits and nuts. "Help yourself," said my hospitable host, " there is no forbidden tree in all this garden." Besides the more useful trees are also found bamboo and cypress, glossy-leaved rubber trees as big as English oaks, Norfolk pines, and many another which at home we cultivate as rare exotics in our greenhouses. Such was the garden of the Lord, for why should we hesitate to apply this title to the parsonage compound at Graaf Reinet, in which, as I have said, the Murray family grew up? " The chief characteristic of the household at Graaf Reinet was reverence" said Mrs. Neeth- ling, the eldest daughter, who kindly gave me many of the facts of this article. " We all rev- erenced God and God's book and God's day. <:ji«»L:;:*S vti-,'JWS"'SSiafiS Third and Fourth Generation 281 ation ol Rev. tprietor, turn lud eat their id girls have ould scarcely i, so much is I will find in ricots, plums, B and loquats. full sides and I, date palms How fruit, al- lot know how nuts. " Help t, " there is no ' Besides the 1 bamboo and :ees as big as many another rare exotics in Lord, for why lis -< title to the einet, in which, mily grew up? B household at ,id Mrs. Neeth- Isindly gave me ♦» We all rev- ind God's day. The children reverenced their parents, and the servants reverenced their master and mistress. We reverenced God's day by keeping it strictly. The meat for the Sunday dinner was cooked on Saturday, the raisins for the * yellow rice ' (a kind of curry which is a favorite Sunday dish among the Boers) were stoned on Saturday. The g- pes v/ere picked and the house swept and the boots blacked the day before, and when Sunday came we all, down to the seventeenth little toddler, expected to go to church, all the older children three times a day, under the blis- tering summer sun (and it knows how to blister in Graaf Reinet), as well as when the cooler breezes blew." And did this strictness and this churchgoing disgust the coming M urrays with religion? Let the stalwart, devoted lives of the dozen chil- dren that reached maturity and their hundred grandchildren answer this question and forever silence the namby-pamby religiosity that fears to expect too much of the children lest they be turned away from the church. It is not the Sabbath strictness but the unkindly and un- godly life of many a professed Puritan that has turned the children from the faith. But the world is especially interested, per- haps, in one of the boys that grew up in the Graaf Reinet garden, Andrew Murray the Sec- ond. When he came to sufficient years, he was t!!Skr.$i3t3!S- 282 Fellow Travellers =3i sent to Scotland for his education ; graduated in ihe arts and then in theology, went to Hol- land a year or two to perfect himself in the Dutch language, and then returned to South Africa where his great lifa-work has been ac- complished, and his many books have been written. He was a mere beardic«s boy when he first returned to Africa, only twenty years old and still more youthful in appearance. The rules of the church forbade his being ordained until he was twenty two, so he was sent as a missionary to the Orange Free State and the Transvaal, a little parish about twice the size of England. Still, it was large enough for a boy. And well did this beardless boy cultivate it. " Wh)', they have sent us a girl to preach to us," said one of the old Dutch farmers. But fragile as his appearance then was, there was no end to the endurance of this young preacher. He would go oflF for weeks at a time on horseback, hold- ing services in some convenient centre on the Veldt to which, from scores and even hundreds of miles around, the Boers would come. A tem- porary church of reeds would be erected, backed and surrounded by hundreds of the big Dutch farm wagons. In this the boy preacher would discourse with all the fire and fervency and spiritual power which so live and breathe in his books. •if M !..' i n; graduated went to Hol- mself in tlie led to South has been ao- i have been "9 boy when twenty years Eirance. The ing ordained as sent as a ate and the vice the size I boy. And 9 it. "Wh)', to us," said ut fragile as 10 end to the He would eback, hold- sntre on the m hundreds lie. A tem- :ted, backed a big Dutch icher would rvency and eathe in his Third and Fourth Generation 283 '> ''For six weeks at a time," on one occa- sion, "one hundred babies every Sunday were brought to me for baptism," he told me ; " and in these rude reed churches I preached some of the sermons which the world has since asked me to put into books." "I could shut my eyes, and it seemed as though an angel from heaven were preaching," said Mrs. Neethling, the sister, who for eighteen monthH kept house for him in Bloemfontein, when he was the pastor of the Orange Free State and the Transvaal. It is very much the same with us, is it not, my reader, as we peruse his books which so throb with the spirit and power of God ? We open our eyes to read, and it seems as if an angel from heaven were speaking to us out ^'f the printed page. This is the plain unvarnished tale of one of the most remarkable and one of the most influential families which this genera- tion or any other has known. Never was there a more remarkable fulfilment of the premise, "Instead of the fathers shall be the children." Never was the constancy of the covenant-keep- ing God more wonderfully demonstrated. ~.^ '' Bi?. ^!*^f' ^ . '''^^'^^'^^^'^^'^'*''^'''^ ' ''-^^lii i XLIV LAST DAYS IN SOUTH AFBIOA The last week of my stay in South Africa was in some respects the most encouraging of all, and during these seven days the most im- portant steps for the advancement of Christian Endeavor were taken. I have not time to tell you of beautiful Worcester, which, like Zion, 'stands with hills surrounded." There I wan he happy guest of Rev. William Murray, h has an excellent school for girls under the care of two efficient American teachers, Miss Smith and Miss Ly- man. Here, from all the assembled scholars, gathered in front of the principal buildings, I received a most flowery welcome. I wish I could describe at length the delight- ful day at Wellington, the home of Rev. An- drew Murray, and the home as well, as you can easily believe, of one of the best Christian En- deavor societies in South Africa. What a greets ing it was that you received, through your rep- resentative, my dear fellow-Endeavorers ! It was almost too much for a bashful man, until he remembered that he represented you, and then be held up his head, and marched i«64 ' jfMjr^ iiiiif .-SB&aW y ,- }, ■ AFBIOA in South Africa t encouraging of ays the most im- leut of Christian \fo\x of beautiful stands with hills le happy guest of las an excellent e of two efficient th and Miss Ly- sembled scholars, icipal buildings, I me. ength the delight- lome of Rev. An- ,s well, as you can )est Christian En- 5a. What a greets through your rep- ludeavorers ! 'or a bashful man, B represented you, [ead, and marched Last Days in South Africa 285 bravely between two long rows composed of two hundred South African maidens, who were singing : " A welcome, a welcome, a welcome to thee , A welcome to our iiunny land, dear friend from o'er the tea ; Then welcome, thrice welcome, glad welcome to thee. We pray that all thy coming years may blessed be." Fortunately he was supported in this walk by Miss Bliss, one of the American teachers of Wellington Seminary and one of the best friends Christian Endeavor ever had in Africa. Let me tell those of you who do not know it that here in Wellington was established the first "South African Mount Holyoke." More than twenty-five years ago, at the invitation of Rev. Andrew Murray, two American teachers. Miss Ferguson and Miss Bliss, came out to es- tablish a school for young ladies on the •' Mary Lyon model." This school has been the mother of several others, in which scores of American teachers have been employed ; and of all the good influences for the advancement of the Kingdom in South Africa, next to the church of God itself, these appeared to me the most hopeful. A Keswick convention, under the leadership of Mr. Murray, was being held when I reached Wellington, and for one day it was turned into a Christian Endeavor meeting. It was a great joy to me to meet, and for a day to be under the " ' '?fiyjgj; ' i ' !f ' -! i j''y!^!* *>«»«''i'w^ 286 Fellow Travellers guidunce of one to whom, in coniaion with tens of thousands of others, I owe so much spiritual life and li^;iit. We must hurry on to Cape Town, the me- tropolis of South Africa, where the Endeavor Convention was held. But we did not leave WeUingtou altogether behind, for nearly a hundred delegates, under the lead of Miss Bliss, came to the meetings. Others came from Worcester, Stellenbosch, Graaf Reinet, and other places ; and very pleasant and profitable meetings were held, though there were only one or two of us present who had ever been at an Endeavor convention before. Necessarily, things were somewhat informal. Open parliaments, rallies, early prayer meet- ings, presentations of flags. Junior hours, etc., were conspicuous by their absence ; and the voice of the American visitor was heard, I fear, too often. Nevertheless, the convention marked the beginning of better and larger days for Christian Endeavor in South Africa. A most cordial welcome meeting was held on the last evening of April, in which many of the ministers of Cape Town of all denominations participated. May day saw three sessions of the convention, — morning, afternoon, and even- ing. Sunday had four services for me in three different churches, the closing one being in the Adderly Street Dutch Reformed church after ^ ^uB-;;trn i* ^ ! «.j » "g ' ^wusi ! .."JiJ m.vj.' i^' j f fj ' ^ ■ "" MlHI QD with tens uch spiritual )wn, the rae- ke Endeavor d not leave "or nearly a iad of Miss I's came from Reinet, and id profitable > were only ever been at hat informal, prayer meet* : hours, etc., ce ; and the heard, I fear, iition marked rer days for !a. I was held on 1 many of the enominationa e sessions of on, and even- r me in three ! being in the church after Last Days in South Africa 287 the regular services were over. This is an im- mense church, the largest in Africa, and one of the largest in the world, seating three thousand people ; and it was well filled. My last night on South African soil was spent in Stellenbosch, a famous educational centre. Once more I found myself in the home of one of the Murray family, Mrs. Maria Neethling. Here, too, is a fine Christian Endeavor society, whose only diflBculty is that it has so many active members that it is diflBcult for all to take part in an hour. Many lessons of trust and love and resignation were taught me in this last day in Mrs. Neethling's home, which, in some form, I hope to pass over to you one of these days. Thus comes to an end this South African Christian Endeavor tour, for as I write I am speeding homeward (O how blessed an adverb after nearly ten months absence ! ) on one of the steamers of the Union line. In some respects, which I need not particularize, this has been one of the most difficult missions of my life. During these seven weeks in Africa I have journeyed for you (and with you in spirit) two thousand eight hundred miles, have made sixty- nine addresses for Christian Endeavor, and have visited almost every place of considerable size in Natal, the Transvaal, the Orange Free State, and Cape Colony. ,l'^ 11 ' .^ ^:fig!?S3:t?SJ*aiSm« ii' :• I, 288 Fellow Trwellcrs Unite with me, my readers, in the prayer that this great continent, with its magnificent possibilities and glorious future, may be made the land of Xing Emmanuel, and that Christian Endeavor may have some worthy part in the coming victory. ■■>» aa » mnia' i « 1 ymu "i? the prayer oagnificent J be made t Christian Murt ia the n Selection* from Fleming H. Revell Company's Missionary Lists New York : is< FUth Atmim CUcano : 63 Waitdoctoii StraM Toronto: is4 YoQg* sUMt "*•- '-■XMVsMMm i AMISSIONS. INDIA, In the Tiger Jungle. And Other Stories of Missionaiy Work among the TelUBUs. By Rev. 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