'iu ^. ^. \V^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. ST (/. /a 1.0 I.I 1 50 '"^•' 2.5 2.2 2.0 JJ. 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■• 6" - ► '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation a WEST MAIN STREET ;/V^?,«TEP NY. 14580 (716) 6 ?-4503 ^-..^ A. %' ^, CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. n Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommag6e Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurie et/ou petlicul6e Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ D D D D Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intirieure Blant: leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut qurj certaines pages blanches ajout6es lors d'une rastauration apparaissent d&ns le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 film6es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl^mentaires; L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger una modification dans la mithode normale de filmage sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagies Pages restored and/oi Pages restaur^es et/ou pelliculies Pages discoloured, stained or foxei Pages d^color^es, tachet6es ou piqu6es I I Pages damaged/ I I Pages restored and/or laminated/ r~Y Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ □ Pages detached/ Pages d6tach6es rrV Showthrough/ L-n/] Transparence rr~l^Quality of print varies/ Lk_l Quality indgale de I'impression I I Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel supplementaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible D Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6ti filmdes d nouveau de facon d obtenir la meiMeure image possible. Tl tc Tl P' o1 fll O b< XY si ol fi! si Ol Tl s^ Tl w M di er b< "J re m This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqud ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 12X 16X 20X 26X 30X 24X 28X n 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: National Library of Canada L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grdce d la g6n6rosit4 de: Bibliothdque nationale du Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers ara filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol —»> (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec In plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim6e sont fiim^s en commengant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression o i d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaTtra sur la dernidre image da cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symboie — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre fi!m6s d des taux de rdduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est fiimd d partir de I'angle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 wm • ou;.n •/ I. MESSRS. MARSHALL'S GRAND PERISTREPHIC panorama OF TUB POLAR REGIONS; WHICH DISPLAYS "■?■* THE NORTH COAST BAFFIN'S BAY, ARCTIC HIGHLANDS, &c. -« NOW EXHIBITING IN THE ^^% PAINTED FROM DIIAWINGS TAKEN BY LIEUT. BEECIIY, W7j« accompanied the Polar Expedition in 1818; ^ ,A AMD MESSRS. BOSS AND SACCIIEUSE, WHO ACCOMPANIED TUB BXPEIIITION TO DISCOVER 9t $ioniyMxm ^a^mst^ Where uiidissulviiig- from the first of time. Snows swell uii mows amazing' to the sky ; And icy niuuntaiiis hiirh on UKiniituins |iile(], hieeni to the shivering sailor, fioni afuj-, Sluijielfss and >viiite,a!i atniospli^re <>t'cloudS| Proji'ctod huge and itorrid o'er tiie surjfe. SHREWSBURY I t>BINTED BY WILLIAM EDDOWES, 8AL0PIAH JOURNAL OFPICI. '■'"i ■%:'.. r'^* >>■ 1822. l'^ Fi Jce Sixpence.— To ba had at the Panorann, \ , '-'*■«,■' ';■ y>j»'«-ji/- -ia^' *'/ w^^ 1 ,•' fs ■ \ ( B hi ic DESCRIPTION OF TUB VIEW 1. Subject — The Dorothea. Captain Buchan, in the vicinity of Cloven Cliff, forcing her way to the edge of the JBarrier of Ice, kc. \ "N the left of the spectator, is the Dorothea, Captain Buchan, in the act of forcing- her way to the edge of the barrier. She is supposed to be nipped between two floes of ice, which are cIosin<»-, and inclinini^ her over, on one side; ^ on the other side of the Dorothea, in the distance, is part of the barrier of ice, which extends from Spitzbergen to Greenland ; oh the right, in the foreground, are Captain Buchan and Lieutenant Franklin, consulting together on their future proceedings ; beyond whom, a little to the left, are Mr. Fisher the Astronomer, and other officers, making observations on the hititude, longitude, variation of the com- pass, and dip of the needle, previous to their departure to the westward, in which quarter it was determined again to seek a passage, and in the event of failure, to proceed round South Cape to the eastward of Spitzbergen : on the extreme right, over a huge piece of ice, are some of the Lams Gla- cuus, or Glacuous Gull.* In the foreground are immense masses of ice, fragment upon fragment, some of them higher tJian the main mast, beautifully illuminated with the rays of the sunt which is seen above the horizon. * This elegant bird, called by the Dutch, Burger Meister, being themaUorof all other Keu-t'owl within 4he Arctic Regions, builds its nest in high cliffs, and preys on deud uitulex, ami sniull birds. They seldom stray far from the liind oi ice, are constantly on the wint;, and not often seen tn associate with eacb other. f The sun sets no more iiere after the 3d of May, when distinction of day and nisht is lost. Frv)ni theiniddleuf August, the power of the sun declines; it sets fast in Scplcnihcr — ilay 's then hardly distinguishable; and, by the middle of October, the sun takes a lonp leave of this dieadful country ; the bays become frozen, and Winter reigns triumphant. The sun never appears as;ain till about. the 3d uf f cbrwavy, kuviug this dreary country four mouths in darkness. 6 ,. The interest excited by the equipment of the late expedition towards the North Fole, was of so general a nature, that there is scurcely an individual who is not fully in possession of its purport ; but, as no narrative of this voyage has hitherto appeared before the public, the following brief account of the operations of the ships, and descriptions of the country they visited, may not prove uninteresting. The Dorothea and Trent, under the orders of Capt. Buchan, quitted England early in May, 18 18; and with favourable winds, pursued their course to the northward. A>i they advanced the weather became considerably colder ; and, ere they had reached the eightieth parallel of latitude, the ships were cas<*d in ice. The continuation of the sun above the horizon, however, soon dispelled this severity of climate ; and the thermometer fluctu- ated between 40° and 2S° Fahrenheit, during the remainder of the summer. Few obstacles presenting themselves, the island of Spitzber- gen was approached on the 'i6th of May. This island, first dis- covered by William Barentz, in the year 1694, lies between the seventy-sixth and eighty -first parallels of latitude, or nearly 400 miles north of Norway. Its shores at first present a true picture of dreariness and desolation; the principal objects which attract the attention, are craggy mountains, with their summits tower- ing above the clouds ; deep glens filled with eternal snows ; and stupendous icebergs. The eye, however, soon becomes fami- liarized to such a scene, and the mind is filled with admiration of the grandeur and magnificence of its objects. t t I VIEW II. The Trent, commanded by Lieutenant Franklin, far in the Ice, the crew endeavouring to extricate her by carrying out ropes, ^c. — Grey Hook, Red Beach, ^-c. In the left centre of this view is the Trent, still far in the ice ; from her not being of sufficient weight to separate the pieces, she is just pi -^ssed by two fields of ice, and, in con- sequence, lifted up several feet, and heeling over; the crew are endeavouring to extricate her by carrying out ropes, ice anchors, &c. Beyond the Trent in the distance, along the horizon, is the continuation of the icy liarrier, extending from Spitzbcrgen to Greenland ; the promontory of land on the right in the distance, where you lose sight of the icy barrier, is named Grey Hook. The yellow tint over the horizon, behind the Trent, and extending to Grey Hook, is intended to represent the Ice i ition there fits !ured tioiis may Blink, a pbcnoinenon always seen over any compact a^^e< gatiun of ice, whenever the horizon is tolerably free from clouds. It is evidently occasioned by the rays of light strik- ing* on the snowy surface of the ice, and being reflected into the superincumbent air, where they become visible ; biit the light which falls on the sea is in a great measure absorbed; hence the openings occurring in a body of ice are seen in the atmosphere, reflected with the blink, producing a perfect map of the ice and water in the air. See Scoresby on Polar Jce.-~Ou the extreme right is Red Beach; on the foreground on the left is the Lurus.^rcticusy or Arctic Gull ;♦ to tl*e right of which, among some gigantic fragments of ice, are Alca JUlCf or Little Awks;t a Tittle to the right are some of the Puffin Awks;J in the centre of the view, on some ice in the foreground, are the Larus Eburneus, or Ivory Gull ; a little to the right of which are seen some Eider Ducks and Drakes; these birds are very numerous in the bays of Spitzbergen, to which place they migrate to breed ; they are celebrated for their luxurious down, now an extensive article of commerce in many parts of Europe ; beyond them are groups of Seals§ sportiiig on the ice; on the wing are the Sterna IJirundetf Qf Great Tern ;|| and on the extreme right is Bed Beach. ' -. i It was along the western shore of this uninhabited island, that the ships pursued an almost uninterrupted course, until they reached Cloven Cliff, or its northern boundary, where they found * This bird feeds on fish that have been cauglit by other bird8, whom it per- secutes till they are obliged to drop their prey, which it catches with great dex. terity before it reaches Ihe water; they also display a good deal of cunning in watching the flight of ducks from their nests, when they instantly occupy them and devour the eggs. f These little birds are seen in such myriads in the Aiclic Seas, as to baffle •II description ■, they make a continued chirruping noise, which from their num- bers may be heard several miles; they are so stupid and easily friglitened, that they frequently fly to the danger they wish to avoid, and thus become an easy prey to the Seals, and othei' animals inhabiting those regions ; they are about the •ize of a black-bird, dive well, are always putting then- bill to the water as if drinking, grow fat in stormy weather, and in Newfoundland are called the Ice Bird, being the harbinger of ice. t See Penn. Arc. Zoo. Vol. ii. p. 511. \ These amphibious animals are so well known as to render any description unnecessary. II This graceful little bird nurpasses in its plumage every other species of the ftaihered iribe found within the Arctic Resions. Nature has provided them with suf-h sharp tiills, and ihey are so remarkably active, that they fearlessly dart upon birds of much larger size, and w ithont ceremony rob them of any food they may have rolleeteii, and may thus be said to tyrannize and lord it over every other kind of bird except the Burger Meister. They have even courage enough to attack the human species, if their nests are molested by them. that immense barrier of ice, which has hitherto prescribed limits to discovery, and frustrated every exertion to reach the Pole. Thi8 vast body, composed principHlly of iloes, that vary in thickness from tifteen to sixty feet below the surface of the water, was whHt the »hip8 had to contend with. Twice they were led into It b) flatterin}^ prospects, and each time were behct.* The first time, they were within two miles of the shore, and in such shoal water that the rocks were plainly to be seen. The second, after penetratinj; to 80° 14' N. the floes closed upon them and thev became immoveable. " These discouragincj circumstances, thou{»h they threw a damp Upon the most sani^ume expectations, served but to repeared well calculated to convey a general idea of the nature of the Arctic Regions. of VIEW III. Red Hill, Red Beach, Red Bay^ S^-c. with the surrounding sublime Scenery peculiar to this frozen climate. On the extreme left is Red Hill, on the rio^bt of which is Red Beach, so named from the colour of their soil : this appears to he tlie extreme point reached by most voyagers. The lion. Captain Phipps, however, after three attempts, succeeded in passing it. It was off this land the Dorothea and Trent were beset in the ice for 14 days t on the ice on tlie left are some of the crew belonging- to the Trent killing Walrusscs.* Immense fragments of ice are in the fore- ground on the right, on which are two of the crew; the boat belonging to the Trent supposed to have put them on the ice ; immediately over which is a whale breathing: on the wing, in the centre of the View, is the Fulmar Petrel, or Storm Fowj.f The Black GuUiemot, or Diving Pigeon, on and over the ice. * These liideoiis animnis have been known (o attain the lene^th nf ciglitecn feet, and girth twelve or thirteen. The head is small, and su connected to tlie neck as to a[v|>ear a continuation «>f the latter ; the eyes arc small, and sunk into the head ; their lips arc fat, and beset with long bristles; the skin, which IS about an incii thick, hangs in folds or wrinkles, particularly about the neck, and is covered with a short bristly hair, of a dirty yellow or greenish tint; their legs arc short, and feet like those of the seal. These monsters are very numerous about Spitsbergen, and are generally seen collected in groups, on pieces of floating ice, where they lie huddled together, bellowing, or rather grunting like swine, some rolling and others scratching themselves. Some* times the wlxde group fall asleep, witii ll:n exception of one, who is set on the watch ; he, however, frequently dozes ; and, nt such times they may be easily approached, and killed wrth a bayonet or lance. The mothers in- variably provide for the safety of their young in preference to their own, by plunging it iuto the sea, even though they should be badly wounded. A striking instance of afTection was also manifested by a young one towards its motlur, who, on seeing its parent killed by the crew, was so exasperated, that the little monster singly attacked the. boat ; and, though repeatedly wounded, would not desist, but crawletl upon the ice after the men, until a lance entering its heart temiinated its existence. f This Bird every where abounds within the Arctic circle, and has even been seen in the jiouthern hemisphere by the celebrated Cook. They keep chiefly in the high seas, feeding on dead wbab's, or whatever oflers on the surface, biit will with their strong bills pick the hi out of the backs nf the living whales, especially of the wounded, whose bloody track they follow by hundreds, to watch its rising. c * .8 VIEW IV. The coHtinvatinn of Rod /iaif, three maffni/icenl Icebergs^ with the surruuiidhuf covutrjf. At the far extent of the Bay are Miree mnfrnifirent Ice- bergs, of a {rreenish colour, covered with snow, risina: out of the water like j)erpen(licular cliffs, aiul are ui)war(lN of a mile and half in length, and 2()S feet in heiy:ht : they are chained or frozen to the lanti, the conspicuous in every form and feature in this View. Masses have been seen assuming the shnpe of a (iothic Church, with arched windows, and all the rich tracery of that style, composed of crystal of the richest sapphirine blue ; tables of one or more feet ; and often immense flat- roofed temples, like those of Luxor or the Nile, * Tlirse animalfi have been known to p;r(>w to Uie enormous leni(lh of funr- teen ft-et, fiiiii are found almost every wlierfc within the Arctic circle. They retire ilurinir (he winter to their icy ileuK, where they are fiupposed to live in a tin-pid Nlolc, until the sun appears altoie the horizon, when they Htalk forth and devour every ilnn'j; they meet with. Nature hns gifted them with an ex- traordinary power of scent; a piece of horse^M 'nt set on fire on hoard the ships, V M sure of uttracting souie towards them. They are easily frightened ; but, V tien attacked or wounded, are excessively fierce. Uarentz tellu us of some of liis seamen being carried off and devoured by them. I •upporlal by round transparent rolumns of rL'riil«'un line, float l)y lliL' asdinislied Hpcctulor. TlitM' icelaT^s, the crcalioii of a^vs, lecrivi' atinually additional liti^lit, by the falling of snow und rain, winch often instantly furze.s, and more than re()air« the loss by the inflneiKt of tht? ineltni;; sun. On the left, in the distance, is lied llill,»o called from the colour of its soil ; und on the ri^ht is Red Hay ; on the sontli-vvcst side of which are the icebcrj;s. It was in this bay the Dorothea und Trent were beset in the ice 14 ilayts. bat. VIEW V. The Islands named tfip Norvnys, Cloven Cliffy and Vogel iSany^ it'ith the adjacent countrj/. On tlip rio'ht. iu the distance, in Cloven Cliff, so named by the enrliest v(»yiiifers, from its nppearanre; beyond Clo- ven ClifV, mt)re distant, is the Island named Voi>el Sang, anv and majestically, and ut times are immoveable by the power of the ocean, they then produce near the horizon that bri;;ht appearance called the Blink of the ice. The approxiinu- tioa of two «rreat tields produces a most singular phenomenon ; it forces the lesser (probably several acres square) out of the ivater ; and adds to its surface a second, and oft a third succeeds; jfco that the whole forms an a<;^regate of a tremendous Jieijjht ; C 'Z 10 gome of these are seen in the foreground of this and the preceding Views ; these float on the sea like so many rugged mountains, and are sometimes 500 or 600 yard» thick ; but the far greater part is conct-ied beneath the water. These are continually increased in height by the lieezing of the spray of the sea, or the melting of the sea which falls on them. In the centre of this view are the Two Islands called the Norways, and on the right is Cloven Cliff — This remarkable promontory, so called by the earliebt voyagers, from its cloven appearance, is the north- western extremity of Spitzbergen, and is that point of land to which the barrier of ice is usually connected ; and on the extrtnit; right is Vogel Sang — This island, comparatively luxuriant to the rest, is covtred with a variety of lichens, which afford nourishment to numerous rein-deer. These elegant animals were found in a very Hue condition, the fat on their loins being seven inches in thickness. The sky in this part of the Panorama represents the storm rising in the S. W. which the vessels encountered the following day. VIEW VI. The dreailful situatiouH of the Dorothea and Trent encouH' terivg the tremendous storm iphich compelled them to return home. On the left is the Dorothea, in tremendous contact with the ice : she is partly iieeled over. On the right is the more perilous situation of the Trent, nearly on her beam ends, from the violence of the gale, and the sea; immense pieces of ice, many hundred thousand tons weight, are tossing in all directions; the sky dark, and the sea at a prodigious height: the whole displaying a scene of awful grandeur and sublimity beyond description. The next day, the Dorothea and Trent were in an open sea, steering to the westward, elated with hopes of future success. A few hours, however, had scarcely elapsed, when the sea rose to a pri)digiou". height, and the gale that had been long gathering raged 'vitli such unexampled fury, that every sail was furled. At this critical moment, the ice was seen so close to leeward as to hold out little probabiT^y of weathering it ; and presented a prospect so truly territic, that but slender hopes of saving the vessels were entertainen, the after-sail was lowered, the helm placed a-weather, ami, in less than a minute, the vessels came in tremendous contact with the margin of the ice ; through which, by the strength of the wind and violence of the sea, they forced a passage. Uiifor- tunately, however, the next sea drove in with such violence against their sterns, as to bring them broadside to ; where they remained for some time, beiag thrown from piece to piece, and striking so hard that their rudders were smashed, the vessels htove, and their timbers cracking incessantly. In this situation, the provi- sions and boats were prepared for putting on llie ice; when, after a fthort time, a more favourable change took place. A piece of ice, full twelve feet thick, which had im|.ieded the progress of the Trent inward, was, by a blow of the stem, split in two, and the vessel passed between the fragments, where she received such protection as yet to hold out ho|>es of her safety. By four in the afternoon the gale abated, and the Trent forced her way out : the Dorothea had suffered too much to risk the trial. Nevertheless, both ships were in a clear sea early next morning ; but, being so shattered as to render their continuance at sea unsafe, steered for the port of Smeerenburgh ; where they anchored early on the morning of the 1st of August. This port not proving sufficiently safe to admit of the vessels undergoing h repair in it, they were moved to a more favourable one, calied South Gat, which was found by the boats dispatched for tliat pur[)Ose. This is tlie best harbour yet discovered in Spitzhergen ; it is SMI rounded by lofty pyramidal mountains; the vallies be- tween being tilled with snow and icebergs. Here the largest one swn in Spitzbergen was formed : its width being upwards of a mile and a half, its extent backward two or thi»'e mote, and height full 300 feet. Its front, of a most beiiutiful beiyline blue, was nearly perpendicular, and wrought into t'e most fanci- ful forms. In one part was a cave of one hundred Ject; iu width, lafty iu lieight, and of great depth. i 12 1 t I *riie mountains, thoujjh they uear so barren an appearance at tk distance, are, on a near approach, fonnd to be ccivered with THOss, on wliich }>row several very diniiiuitive plants; none, however, exceed six incites in heii^ht. Amonj^st them were noticed ranunculusses, poppies, and scurvy grass. During the stay of the ships in this port, important observa- tions were made ; by which (he length of a pendulum, vibrating seconds in so higli a latitude, was t»btained. I'he dip of the needle was found to exceed that of Rngland 11": the former be:ng 8iJ°, the latter 71°. '1 he variation, ascertained to be '24" 30' VV. being ve\ nearly the same as ni England. 'I'he latitudes and longitudes of the principal lieadlands were fitund by celestial pbsid undergone such tempo- rary repair as to enable them to proceed to Knglai.d, though not to prosecute the voyage. The breeze favouring, they sailed out through the southern passajic, made the ice, and traced it along to the westwsird. On the 15th of September they were so near to the coast of lost Greenland (as laid down in the bcht charts), tliat they momentarilv expected to see it, liavmg every indic;ition of their near approach. The sea was smooth, and somewhat changed in colour; the sea-fowl were become more numerous, and several land-birds seen. 'I'he anxiety to make tins coast, so many years bound in chains of ice, was truly great ; but, to the mortitication of everv one, the thick foy, which for several days had envelojud the bhips, continued : a ^u\e at the same time came on, which obliged the ships, in their shattered eondition, to bear -up for tngland, and relinquish every further attempt to l)enetrate the barrier with which they had so long contended. VIEW vir. CAPTAIN Ross's VOYAGt: OF DISCOVERY FOR A NORTH-WI'ST PASSAGi:. Subject — The IsahrUa, Caplahi Jioss, itttd the Alexander, eommnmletl Inf Limtenavt PoriN, at the nev-discovpre.d hnid ill liajffjii's Jiati, named htf Captain lions the .li die Hiifhiavds. Cajitaiii lioss, Lievtenant Parnf,Saccheusii the /'Jsfjvimau.T, and same oj the Crew, in conjereuce uith the natives, l\c In tin; loft c('htuM»f tliis View is the Isabella, Capt. Ross, m^de fast fo tin; ice; beyond v,liich, more distant, is flio AlexiHidor, Lieutenant Parry ; on the other side of nhich are the hills of tlu> Arctic niglihnnis; in the foregiound are groups of the iratives, with their sle(lg< s and dogs; ('apt. Itosy and IJout. Parry are proset'.ling- them '.vith looking* 18 glasses, knives, &c, ; their astonishment is extreme, at beholdinjr their f;ices in the mirrors ; others of the natives are flog^ginjv their tlogs to preserve order. % The Isabella and Alexander sailed from the Downs about the middle (if April, 1818. On the 30th, they reached Lerwick iu Shetland : and on June ytli, they were in the vicinity of Disco island. June loth. At noon (says the Journal of the Voyage) we fell in withseveial ships employed in the whale lishery, one belon^;- in<; to Dundee, the rest to Hull; they had all been sucoensfid. The Governor of the whale islands had informed them that the ice had broken up and frozen au[ain no less than three times this season. This fleet of whalers was seen runninir throu 'h the chatuiel froni whence we hud come, in hopes of iindm;^; a passage. June 1 1th. In the afternoon we hoisted our colours and pen- dant, in compliment to the Danish I'Maj^ on wh.de islands. June 14tli. At six we fell in with loose ice, and co.itinuei sailin<^ throu;^h it ; ti.ni ice was seen westward. VN'e proceeded next day, steerin;if alonu- the edijfe of the maia ice, a tirm held stretchni^ from north to south ; we sailed on between lar«;'e th)es, and amo.i;^ loo-.e ice, which, as we advanced, becam« more tremendous, and more closely packed, till at length we hud only a narrow and crooked channel for our f)assa>(e. At ei^ht we saw a ridj^e of iceberiis of every variety and shape that can be imagined, and took sketches of them as they appeared. June 17. 'A"iiy«jratt, or Hare Island, was now bearins; east of us. V\'e found here forty-tive ships emjdoyed in the whale fishery, all detaiiifd by tlie ice ; and as there appeared little chance of our i«eltinf; farther for some dtys, I determined to turn our detentuwi to the best account, and prepared for making observations on shore. Juiie 20. Our F.squimaux returned with seven natives in then- canoes or kajach>', briii«>in^ a small supply of bird.*. Their villa'>e, lyinijf on the south of the bays, appears to consist of a few hnts made of seal skins, sufBtient for the residence of about tifty persons. Beint; desirous of procnrint;' a sledge and t discovered the animal, and went to meet it, but soon perceiving he was no 14 match for its ferocity, he prudently hulled, till Messrs. Beverl*y, Skene, and Uoss, with some seumeu, joined in the attack ; the Bear made off on their approach, and they hud a tedious hunt after it in vjsin. When the weather cleared, we hud the pleasure of seeing land ; the ship was immediately under sail, and passing several miles in that direction, we fell in with seven whalers, which had jjot a-head of us while we were beset : we received a message from one of them, the Everthorpe, requesting surgical assistance for the master, whose thigh had been severely lacerated by a wounded bear, which had attacked and dragged him out of the boat; the animal was pierced by three lances before it would relinquish its grip, vnnen, disengaging itself from the weapons, it swam to the ice, and made off. The poor man, though sadly torn, was ha[>pily not considered to be in a dangerous state. July 30th. It being calm (says Captuin Hoss), I sent a boat after a whale, which appeared to be particularly marked, being black and white ; he was soon harpooned by the Isabella's boat ; ihe first harpoon striking him on the back, a little behind the left fin, and at first appearing to be effectual ; the boat was then car- ried to the edge of the ice, and several lines veered away, but after holding a long time, it was perceived that he had escaped, but he soon after appeared, about a mile and a half in distance, with the harpoon on his back, being then a loose fish. As he re- mained near the surface, and appeared to suffer from the wound, the young officers of both ships, who each commanded boats, pulled witn emulation to the spot where each expected him tp rise, waiting for the moment of his appearance with anxiety. For- tune favoured Mr. James Ross, the animal rising nearest to his boat, in which the harpooner enfixed his weapon with a deadly aim, following it by a third and fourth, which made the capture cer/ain : he was now much exhausted, and obliged to remain near the surface, thereby exposing himself to the lances ; the blood, at intervals flowing from his wounds, and being thrown up in volumes as he rose to breathe ; at length, becoming exhausted, he nad only strength to make a last but terrible struggle. August the 6th. — Vl hile standing off and on, we had good observations. At half past two, a small opening was seen, which, together with the motion of the ice, gave us hopes of forcing a passage: 1 determined to attempt it, and the weather proving fine, the ships were tracked with great difficulty through about a mile of bay ice, to the narrowest of a floe, which ob- structed our passage into a pool a-head ; the usual resort was had to sawing, but our labours were roon suspended by the discover- ing of a passage a little to the eastward ; to this therefore we warped the ships through the loose and bay ice, and thus managed to proceed about a mile further. Here we obtained good observ- ations and the bearings of the land. i;; . The ships had made verj' little progress, when we were aur* Erised by the appearaiK^; of several men on the ice, who were allooin^ (as we imagined) to the ships ; the tii^t imprettsion was, that they were shipwrecked sailors, probably beloiif^iuij to some vessel that had followed us, and had been crushed in the last gale; we therefore tacked, hoisted our colours, and stood in for the shore. On approaching the ice, we discovered them to be natives, drav/n in rudely-fashioned sledges by doi^s, which they continued to drive backwards and forwards with wonderful ra- pidity. When we arrived within hail, Saccheuse called out to them, in his own language; some words we heard in return, to which a reply was again made by the Esquimaux, but neither i)arty appeared to be in the least degree intelligible to the other, r'or some time they continued to regard us in silence, but on the ships tacking, they set up a simultaneous shout, accompanied with many strange gesticulations, and went off in their sledges with amazing velocity towards the land. After they had attained the distance of a mile or more, they halted for about two hours : as soon as this was observed the ships were tacked, and a boat sent to place an observation stool of four feet in height on the ice, on which various presents, consisting of knives and articles of clothing, were left. Either, however, they did not see it, or it did not attract their attention, and a second boat was therefore sent, with directioi>s to leave one of the Esquimaux dogs, with some strings of blue beads round his neck, near the same place. It being necessary to examine if there was a passage in this place, we took the opportunity of their absence to stand towards the head of the pool, which was about four miles off, trusting that in the mean time they would return to the same spot, to which it was also our intention to come back, after examining into the chancer of a passage northward. No opening was, how- ever, found, and we therefore returned, after an absence of ten hours. The dog was found sleeping on the spot where we left him, the presents remaining untouched. A single sledge wa» vhortly after observed at a great distance ; but it immediatelj drove off with great rapidity. Being extremely anxious to communicate with the natives, I caused a pole to be prepared, on which a flag was fixed, with a representation of the sun and moon, pointing over a hand holding a sprig of heath (the only shrub seen on the shore). This pole being carried to an iceberg, midway between the ships aud the shori^, was there erected, and a ba^ containing presents, with the device of a liand pointing to a ship painted on it, was fastened to the pole within reach, and left there ; the ships in the meau time being moored in a convenient situation for observing what might take place. The gale had now entirely subsided, the weather became beautiful, and the water calm ; circumstances that necessarily de- tained us in our present situation ; which, notwithstanding the Id !lf imperious nuluie of our oitlers to proceed with all possible dis- patch, we should have been unwilling to leave while any cliaricy of a rominunicatioii with a people hitherto unknown remained. Aui^ust 10, Myriads of the little awks surrounded us, and afforded some sport, while they proved no less a treat to the people. About ten o'clock this day, we wrre rejoiced to see ei<:^ht sledges, driven by the natives, advancins^ by a circuitous route towards the place where we lay; they halted about a mile from us, and the people aliyhting, ascended a small iceber^jf, as if to reconnoitre. After remainin;^ apparently in consultation for nearly half an hour, four of them descended and came towards the flatf-staff, which, however, they did not venture to approach ; in the mean time a white flajy was hoisted at the main in each ship, and Johr Saccheuse dispatched, bearing a small white fliijr, with some presents, that he might endeavour, if possible, to brinw them to a parley. This was a service which he had most theerfully volunteered, requesting leave to ^o unattended and unarmed, a request to which no objection coidd be made, as the place chosen for the meetin;j; was within half a mile of the Isabella : it was equally advantageous to the natives, a canal, or small chasm in the ice, not passable without a plank, se- parating; the parties from each other, and preventing any possi- bility of an attack from these jjeople, unle!:s by darts. In executing this service, Sac(;heuse displayed no less address than courage. Having placed his flag at some distance from the (*anal, he advanced to the edge, and, taking off his hat, made friendly signs for those oppobite to approach as he did ; this they partly complied with, halting at a distance of 300 yards, where they got out of their sledges, and set up a loud simultaneous halloo, which Saccheuse answered by imitating it. They ven- tured to approach a little nearer, havuig nothing in their hands but the whips with which they guide their dogs; and, after satisfying themselves that the canal was impassable, one of them in particular seemed to acquire confidence. Shouts, words, and gestures, were exchanged for some time to no purftose, though each party seemefl in some degree to recognize each other's language. Saccheuse, after a time, thought he could discover that t lie}' spoke the Humooke dialect, drawing out their words, however, to an unusual length. iJe immediately adopted the dialect, and, holding up presents, called out to them, Kalikcile, " Come on ;" to which they answered, JS'aakrie, naakricai-piailf, " No, no — go away ;" and other words, which he niatle out to mean that they hoped we were not come to destroy them. The boldest then approached to the edge of the canal, and drawing from his boot a knife, repeated, *• Go away ! 1 can kill you." Saccheuse, not intimid'ited, told them he was also a man, and a friend ; and at the same time threw across the canal some •trings of beads, and a chequed shirt ; but these thev behelrf 17 with )T;vci\t distrust and apprelansion, still oallinaj, " Go away, ilon't kill Us." Saccheuse now threw \hcn\ siii lMiL;Ii&h knife, sjiyiiii;-, " Take tl.iit." (,)n this tlit-y a|)|>roiiL'hed with caution, pickt'd up the knife, then shduted and pulled their nos»'> ; the>e actions were imitated hy Sacclieuse, who, iu return called out, " lltigh i/atc /'' ' 'illiiii^ his nose with the same gesture. They now puiiited to the siiirt, demandin;^' what it was ; and when told it was an article of clothinj;-, asked of what skin it was made. Saechuise replied, it was u)aes made of wood." This they heemed still to discredit, answering, " No, they are alive, we have seen them move their wings." Saccheuse now inquired of them, what they themselves were; to which they replied, they weie men, and lived in that direction, pointing to the north; that there was much water there; and that they had come here to fish for sea unicorns. It was then agreed that Saccheuse should pass the <'hasm to them ; and he accordingly returned to the ship to make his report, and to ask for a plank. Duiing the whole of this conversation, 1 had been employed with a good telescope in observing their inoiiojis, and beheld the first man approach with every mark of fear and distrust, looking frequently behind to the other two, and beckoning them to come on, as if for su port ; they occasionally retreated, then advanced again, with cautious steps, in the attilude of listening, generally keeping one ]ian(l down by their knees, in readiness to pull out a knife which they had in their boots ; in the other hantj they held their dojj whips with the lash coiled up ; their sledges remaining at a little distance, the fourth man being apparently stationed to keep them in readiness for escape. Sometimes they drew back the covering they had on their heads, as if wishing to catch the most distant sounds; at which time 1 could discern their features displaying extreme terror and amazement, while every limb appeared to tremble as they mov« d. Saccheuse was direct- ed to entice diem to the ship, and two men were now sent with a plank, which was accordingly placed across the chasm. They iipt)earcdbtill much alarmed, and requested that Saccheuse 18 ■ I. Hi •Illy should come over : he accordingly passed to the opposite tide, on which they earnebtly betiuu^^ht him not to touch them ; »s, if he did, they should certainly die. After he had used many arguments to persuade them that he was flesh and blood, thu native who had shenn most courage, ventured to touch his hand ; then pulling himself by the nose, set up a shout in which he was joined by Saccheuse and the other three. The presents were then distributed, consisting of two or three articles of clothing, and a few strings of beads, after which Saccheuse exchanged u kuife for one of theirs. The hope of getting some important information, as well as the rnterest naturally felt for these poor creatures, made me impatient to communicate with them myself; and 1' therefore desired Lieutenant Parry to accompany me to the place where the party were assembled, it appearing to me that Saccheuse had failed in persuading them to come nearer the fehipsi. We accordingly provided our.seIves with additional pre- sents, consisting of looking glasses and knives, together with some caps and shirts, and proceeded towards the spot, where the conference was held with increased energy. By the time^we reached it, the whole were assembled ; those who had originally been left at a distance with other sledges, having driven up to join their comrades. The party now, therefore, consisted of ei^ht natives, with all their sledges, and about tifty dogs, two sailors, Saccheuse, Lieutenant Parry, and myself — forming a group of no small singularity ; not a little also increased by the peculiarity of the situation— on a field of ice far from the land. The noise and clamour may be easily conceived, the whole talk- ing and shouting together, and the dogs howling while the natives were flogging them with their long whips to preserve order. Our arrival produced a visible alarm, causing them to retreat a few steps towards their sledges ; on this Saccheuse culled to \xu to pull our noses, as he had discovered this to be the mode of friendly salutation with them. This ceremony was accordingly performed by each of us — the natives, during thejr retreat, mak- ing use oi the same gestures, the nature of which we had not before understood. In the same way we imitated their shouts as well as we could, using the same interjections, Height yaw ! which we afterwards found to be an expression of surprise and pleasure. We then advanced towards them while they halted, and presented the foremost with a looking glass and a knife, repeating the same presents to the whole as they came up iu succession. On seeing their faces in the glasses their astonish- ment appeared extreme, and they looked round in silence for a moment at each other and at us ; immediately afterwards they set up a general shout, succeeded by a loud laugh, expressive of extreme delight as well as surprise, in which we joined, partly from inability to avoid it, and willing also to shew that we were pleased with our new acquaintances. The impression made by this ludicrous scene, on Saccheuse, was so strong, that some time after he made a drawing of it. 19 being the first specimen we had witnessed of his talents for histo- rical composition. His practice in the art of design which he had cultivated, in addition to ail the other branches of knowledge en- grafted on his Esquimaux education, having hitherto been limited to copying such prints of single figures or ships as he could procure, as he never received any hint or assistance in this per- formance. Having now at length acquired confidence, they advanced, offering, in return for our knives, glasses, and beads— thttr knives, sea unicorns' horns, and sea-horse teeth, which were accepted. They were then instructed by Saccheuse to uncover their heads, as a mark of good-will and respect to us ; and with this ceremonial, which they performed immediately, and of which they appeared to comprehend the meaning, our friendship became established. One of them having inquired what was the use of a red cap which 1 had given him, Saccheuse placed it on his head, to the great amusement of the rest, each of whom put it on in his turn. The colour of our skins became next a subject of much mirth, as also the ornaments on the frames of the*looking glasses. The eldest of them, who was also the one who acted as leader, addressing himself to me, now made a lon^ speech, which being ended, he appeared to wait for a reply. I made signs that I did not under!;tand him, and culled for Sac- cheuse to interpret. lie thus perceived that we used different languages, at which his astonishment appeared extreme, and he expressed it by a loud Heigh, i/aw / As Saccheuse's attempt to procure the meaning of this oration seemed likely to fail, and as we were anxious to get them to the ship as soon as possible, I desired him to persuade them to accompany us. They accord- ingly consented ; on which their dogs were unharnessed and fastened to the ice, and two of the sledjjes were drawn along the plank to the other side of the chasm ; tnreeof the natives being left in charge of the dogs and the remaining sledges, the other five followed us, laughing heartily at seeing Lieutenant Parry and myself drawn towards the ship on the sledges by our sea- One of them, by keeping close to me, got before his com men. panions, and thus we proceeded together till we arrived within a hundred yards of the ship, where he stopped. I attempted to urge him on, but in vain — his evident terror ])reventing him from advancing another step till his companions came up. It was apparent that he still believed the vessel to be a living crea- ture, as he stopped to contemplate her, looking up at the mas«ts, and examining every part with marks of the greatest fear and astonishment. He then addressed her, crying out, in words per- fectly intelligible to Saccheuse, and in a loud tone, " Who are you ? what are you ? where do you come from ? is it from the sun or the moon i*" pausing between every question, and pulling his nose with the utmost solemnity. The rest now came up iu succession, each shewing similar surprise, and making use of the same expressions, accompanied by the same extraordinary cere- mony. Saccheuse now laboured to assure them, that the ship 90 was only ft wooden house, and pointed out the boat, which hud been hauled on the ice to repair, exphunin^ to iheni that it was u smaller one of the same kind. This inmiediutely arrested their attention. They advanced to the boat, examined her, as well as the carpenters' toola and the oar^*, very minutely ; each object in its turn extitin^', the most ludicrous ejaculations ot" hurpriho. V\'e then ordereil the boat to be launched into the sea, with u man in it, and hauU'tl up ayain, ut the hight of which they set no bounds to their clamour. The ice anchor, a litavy piece of iron shaped like the letter S, and the cal)le, excited much intere>t ; the former they tried in vain to remove, and tliey easterly ih<|uired of what skins the latter was made. By this time the officers of both ships had surrounded them, while the bow of the Isabella, which was close to the ice, was crowded with tlie crew ; and certainly a more ludicrous, yet interestiiij^ scene, was never be- Jield than that which took place whilst tiny were viewing the ship ; ncr is it possible tr) convey to the imairertin)iear hereafter. Our Wruwin^'s heiiifj; couiplcted, and interrogatories ende*!, they began to be very inquihitive, asking the use of every thing in the cabin. We shewed them papers, books, druwin|i;8, and variouu mathematical inbtrumenti), which produced only the usual effect of astonitihiujj^ them; but on l)ein>; shewn the prints in Cook'M Voyage of the natives of Otaheite, they attempted to grasp them, evidently comprehending that they were the representations of human beings. The sight of a writing desk, a bureau, and of otiier wooden furniture, also excited their astonishment, but ap- parently from the nature of the materials only, as they seemed to ibru) no idea of their uses. They were now conducted to the gun-room, and afterwards round the ship, but without appearing lo distinguish any thing particularly, except the wood in her construction, stamping on the deck, as if in evident surprise ut the quantity of the valuable material. In hopes of amusing them the violin was then >cnt for, and some tunes were played ; they, liowever, paid no attention to this, seeming (piite unconcerned either about the sounds or the performer ; a sufficient proof that the love of music is an acquired taste, and that it requires experi- ence to di^itinguish between that and similar noises. A flute was afterwards souuded for them, which seeujed to exact somewhat more attention ; probably from its resembling, more nearly in shape, the objects to which they were accustomed ; one of them put it to his uKHith, and blew on it, but immediately threw it away. On returning to the cabin, some biscuit was produced, and a piece eaten by Saccheuse, before presenthig it to them. One of them then took a piece also into his mouth, \k almost imme- diately spat it out with apparent disgust. Some salt meat, that was afterwards ofteretl, produced the same effect. We now also ascertained their name, that of the eldest Ervick, and that of the two others, who were his brother's sons, Murshuick and Otooiiiuh. Some jugglers' tricks were afterwards exhibited by Mr. Beverley, whicft seemed to disconcert them, as they became uneasy, and expressed a wish to go on deck ; we accordingly accompanied them, and by pointing to the pieces of ice that were alongside, attempted to discover to what extent they could count, for the purpose of ascertaining the numbers of their tribe: we found, however, they could only reckon to ten ; and on inquiring, therefore, if their country possessed as many inhabitants as there were pieces of ice, they replied, "Many more," a thousand fragments were perhaps then floating round the ship. 1 heir knives had, by this time, been examined by the armourer, who thought they were made from pieces of iron hoop, or from •flat- tened nails ; we therefore asked if any plank or wreck bud for 2d formerly been drivon on their shore ; to which they replinl, that a pii'ce of wood witli nonie iuiiIh had rome on nhore, and been t)iektd np ; wrecipice was struck off by the concussion, and fell with a dreadful crash, breaking the ice below it, and raising a wave that rent the floe in pieces for several hundred yards, and made the ships roll considerably. 24 ', i i ■ ' M I A bottle, containing an account of our proceedings, was her? left Oil the floaniig ice. V\ e also founents, and sent to speak with them. He found immediately that they were not our old friends, but other natives, who had re«eived from ti.ein a gooil report of us^ together with the history of our be'^rg people that lived beyond the ice, and that this had preventevi any alarm at our api>eaiance. On receiving this account, 1 went with Lieutenant Parry to the f)lace of communication, and performed the ceremonies already described, assuring them of our friendship, and inviting them on board — it being proposed that they should drive close to the ships on their sledges : the eldest got into his sledge for this purpose, and we had thus an opportunity of witnessing the mode in which he managed his dogs. These were six in number, each having a collar of seal akittj two inches wide, to » 25 which the one end of the thong, made of strong hide, about three yards long, was tied, the other end bei ;g fa.4eiied to tlie fore part of the sledge; thus they all stood nearly abreast, each drawing by a single trace, without reins. No sooner did they hear the crack of the whip, than they set off at full spee I, while he seemed to manage them with the greatest ease, guiding tliem partly by his voice, and partly by the sound of the whip ; on approaching our sailors, however, they became so terrified that it was with some difficulty they could be stopped. They were at length fastened to the ice, and one of the younger men, who had come up behind, was left in charge of the whole. They were much delighted with the presents that were now given them ; but as it appeared that they had seen those which we had' given to the fir.»t party, their surprise was not to be compared to that which we had already witnessed. !r return, I received a spear made of the sea unicorn's horn, with a sledge, made chiefly of the bones of the seal, tied together with thongs of seal skin, the runners, or lower pieces, being formed of sea unicorns' horns. I also purchased from them a dog, but with some difficulty, as they seemed very averse to part with it. I chose the one which appeared to Mr. Parry and me the handsomest. On examining them, we found that three of them had lost each an eye ; these, as the natives informed ns, having b^en accidents from the lash of the whip. The dog was bound, and led on by one of the sailors to the ship. The animal was some time afterwards unfortunately washed overboard in a gale. The other two natives now accompanied us to the ship, and were much astonished at every thing they saw ; but it was evi- dent that they had been prepared to see wonders by our former visitors, as they were by no means so clamorous. They came in the summer season to catch seals and sea uni- corns, and to procure iron, atid rtturned when the sun left them. We inqiiired respecting the in)n with which then- knives were edged ; they informed us tha* it was found in the mountain before mentioned ; that it was in several large masses, of which one in particular, which was harder than the rest, was a part of the mountain ; that the others were in large pieces above ground, and n >t of so hard \ nature; that they cut it off with a hard stone, and then beat it tiat into pieces of the size of a sixpence, but of an oval shape. As the place where this metal was found, whicli is called Sowaliick, wa> at least tvv»'iity-hve niiles distant, and the :ieather was verv unsettled, I could not venture to end another pa ty to examine it, t eing unre ta>n how soon we ini^ht iie iorced fiom our present situat on. I the elo e oftere i hi-^h euards, and piC'scd them to bring us some specimen^ of it, wh.ch they readily promised, but never performed. They all shewed the same dislike to b-ead anne of them, who had a bag full of awks, took out one in our prei«ence and devoured it raw ; but on being asked if this was a common practice, they informed us that they only eat them in this state when they had no convenience for cookery. We also learnt that the water was clear of ice on tiie northern side of the Cape ; intelligence which could not fail to raise our spirits with the hopes of making some progress as soon as we were able to move from our pre.-ent position. August the r7th. This morning being clear, I sent to an ice- berg t.) ■ btain azimuths, but owing to the attraction of the boat, which liad icL-anchors on board, no satisfactory iCoult was 1 ined us was six le of it iting of epeated ir iron, d blept, lepavted imuths, : needle to pro- tie little seen ap- ise, and •^lad to nicated, w came y — both ispeused lag, and us. In of both and we )ut three ly asked ad none, anied us 11 board, lands on every them a ouple of s flesli, Dore the ot; from n. <>ne jrej«ence common lii state northern aise our m as we 1) an ice- he boat, ult was 27 ot>tained. We now discovered tliat the snow on the face of the clift's presented an apijearance both novel and interestinj^, being apparently stained, or covered, by some subhtance which gave it a deep crimson colour. Many conjectures were formed concern- ing the cause of this api)earance. It was at once determined that it could not arise from the dung of birds, as thousands of these, of various descriptions, were seen rei>eatedly sitting on tin; ice, and on the snow, but without produ ingany such effect. At two P. M. it fell nearly calm, and I sent a boat with Mr, Ross, Mr. Beverley, and a party, to bring off some of the snow, and to make their rem' ks on the circumstances attending .t ; also to procure specimens of tlie animal, vegetable, and mineral kingdoms, and to ascertain if this part of the country was inha- bited : the boat arrived at the shore, nearly at low water, and found the tide had fallen nine feet. The party remained two hours on shore, and found the cliffs accessible at the spot where they landed, but they did not get to the top, being recalled in consequence of a breeze which sprung up. They were equally unsuccessful in meeting with natives, or their habitations, as in procuring specimens of the black fox, many of which they saw and fired at, but without effect. They found the snow was pene- trated even down to the rock by the colouring matter — a depth of ten or twelve feet, and that it had the appearance of being a long time in that state. We examined the snow by a microscope, magnifying a hundred and ten times, and the substance appeared to consist of particles resembling a very minute round seed, •which were of the same size, and deep red colour ; on some of the particles a small dark speck was also seen. It was the general 0|iinion of the officers that it must be vegetable, and this opinion seemed to gain strength by the nature of the places where it was found. These were the sides of the hills, about six hundred feet liigh, the tops of which were covered with vegetation of a yel- lowish-green and reddish-brown colours. The exte"'" of these cliffs was about eight miles; behind themj. at a considerable distance, high mountains were seen, but the snow which covered these was not coloured. In the evening, I caused some of the snow to be dissolved and bottled, when the water had the appearance of muddy port wine. In a few hours it deposited a sediment, which was examined by the microscope : some of it was bruised, and found to be com- posed wholly of red matter : when applied to paper, it produced a colour resembling that of Indian red. Dr. Wollaston seems to concur in that which we originally held, of its bemg a vegetable ; substance, produced on the mountain immediately above it. It ; cannot be a marine production, as in several places we saw it at n east six miles from the sea, but always on the face or near the ;, foot of a mountain. ' Whatever my own notions respecting the real nature of the space passed over in the foregoing run, from Cape baumarez to fr* ■tprngKHprw 28 ii Cape Clarence, mi^lit Imve heea, and wliatever my own expect- ations were as to the probability of an openinjj in this direction, the ardour exihtin^ at home for the discovery of a north-west passage, and the confidence with which the supposed situation of such an opening has been transferred to one spot, as fast as it has been found not to exist in another, render it necessary to re- capitulate the circumstances which disprove its existence in this place, which forms the northermost extremity of Baffin's Bay. On the 19th of August, at fifty minutes past midnight, the ship being nearly on the seventy-seventh degree of north lati- tude, ten leagues to the westward of Cape Sauniarez, which forms the east side and the bottom of tiiis bay, the land was distinctly seen. On the 20th and 21st, when off Cape Clarence, at the distance of six leagues, the land which foi 11s the west side, and the bottom of this bay, was also distinctly m'cu by the officers and my^elf, and by these two ob^'rvations the coast is determined to be connected all round. At each of these periods, this im- mense bay was observed to be covered w.. ' field ice; besiiies which, a vast chain of large icebergs was seen to extend across it. These were apparently aground, and had probably been driven on shore there by southerly gales. It was also oliserved, that the tide r<»se anfl fell only four feet, and that the stream waa scarcely perceptible. From these several considerations, it appears perfectly certain, that the land is here continuous, and that there is no opening at the northermost part of Baffin's Bay, from Hackluit's Island to Cape Clarence. F.ven if it be imagineil that some narrow Strait may exist through these mountains, it is evident tliat it must for ever be unnavigable, an at Island to ow Strait it must ihance of )tton)8 of > great a 111 cement husband Li 1 1 to be , towards our [)ro-