IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I Jf-IM IIM -'^ IM l||||Z2 ^ m 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■^ 6" — ► Photographic Sciences Corporation t^ S ■^^ o 4^ 6^ ^f4> % Aj % W 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 145B0 (716) 872-4503 m t-?/ CIHIVI/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques m Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pellicul6e I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Relid avec d'autres documents r~7| Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serrde peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intirieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que . ^rtaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 film6es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplimentaires; L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la m^thode normale de filmage sont indiqu^s ci-dessous. □ n n n D □ This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqui ci-dessous. Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag6es Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur6es et/ou pellicul6es Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6coior6es, tachet6es ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages d^tach^es Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of print varies/ Quality in^gale de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel suppi^mentaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, un« pelure, etc., ont 6x6 filmdes 6 nouveau de fa^on 6 obtenir la meilleure image possible. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 7 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed hare han been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — ^- (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grice h la gAnArosit* de: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbiii Les images suivantes ont AtA reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition at de la nettetA de l'exemplaire film*, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim6e sont filmAs en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniire page qui comporte une emprainte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmds en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle emprainte. Un des symboles suivants apparaltra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: la symbola — ^ signifie "A SUiVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Li^s cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film^s A des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsqua la document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmi & partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nicassaira. Las diagrammas suivants illustrant la mithoda. 1 4 TMJdp -THB TOURISTS' PICTORIAL -AND— H: ATTD BOOIK Bntis 8HOBBS oiSnSE tBSC THCiWPAeiriG Waters; -BY— ROSE)3RT 3y[:^o3^-A.3SrTJS, Victoria, B. C, Canada. / "Thk Touristb* Pictorial Ocidb" Pubmbhino Co. "THB CotONIBT" PbINTINO Co. j5- 15- -t iff's!^ ' ^rf^ -r- -iiMim ■ w^ ^^?^,- . ^^V ^■e TC B ^ -THB TOURISTS' PICTORIAL GUIDE -AND— i3:j^i<tjd booi^ -TO— BritisI; QDlumbia AND THE SHORES OP THE NeRTHERN PACiriG Waters —BY— tioib:e}tit 2:js:^gi^j^i<ttj&, Victoria, B. C, Canada. "Thk Toubists' Pictokial Guide" Publishino Co. "Thk Colonist" Printing Co. PREFACE. The weak attempt in the confined space of this Guide to adequately depict the grandeur and niagnificenco of the many wonders of nature displayed in British Columbia is somewhat aided by the camera, so that the few plain words used may be conveyed to the uiiderstaiidin'^ of the reader through the medium of the eye and mind together. Conscious, however, that both pen and lens here fails to do mere justice to a subject so sublime, indulgence is craved for many defects. Figures and statistical returns, at best tedious aud tiresome, have been carefully avoided. If sometimes the author in the few commonplace remarks here written, like Mr. Wegg, occasionally, descends from the sublime to the rediculous and unintentionally "drops into poetry, not being a regular musical professional it must be considered in the light of a frien'd," and who, like that far seeing respectable individual, "is well acquainted with his faults," and was "always, from childhood, too sensitive," neverthe- less he can say in the words of Cov/per: "My descriptions are all from nature, not one of them second-handed. My delineations (if any there are) are from my own experience, not one of them borrowed frt)m books." Should this little volume be the means of attracting the attention of a moiety of the travelling public of the older lands to c<»me, see and admire the natural scenic display ar.d enjoy the unrivalled climate of dear, ever beautiful Victoria, whose pristine charms increase with years, then, indeed, will the humble author be amply recompensed; and the hightest complimentary tribute visitors can pay will be in the remark that, this "guide book" fails to even attempt anything approaching a proper, just and sufficient description of the grand displays of iiAtiire everywhere visible throughout the length and breadth of this favored land, the brightest and most valuable gem in the British Colonial diadem. Victoria, January, 1890. t ai P B tj K n CONTENTS. Part I. Introductory Remarks— Unrivalled attractions of British Colum- bia, as a tourist and hunting resort. — The journey to Victoria the Capital of British Columbia. — Canadian Pacific Railway. — "The Great Lone L:ind," — History, Topography and Climate. — "The Sea of Mountains." — 600 miles of Nature's grandeur. — The Golden Days of Cariboo. — — Retrospective. — End of Journey from Ocean to Ocean. — 75 mile Voyage through the lyabrinths of V'estern Fairyland. — Arrival at Vic- toria. ' Glorious Sunset. Part 11. Vancouver Island. — City of Victoria the Beautiful. — Its Attractions as a Tourist Resort. — Financial, Commercial and Manufacturing im- portance. — Canada Western Railway. — Romantic Situation.— Beacon Hill.- The Victoria Arm. — The Pacific Gibraltar, Esquimalt Harbor. — Victoria West, the Great City of the Future. — Envir(»n3 of Victoria. — Electric Railway. — Railways and Steamboat Time Tables. — China Town. — Churches, —Colleges and Schools. — Provincial and City Officials. — Hotels. — Table of Rates and Charges. — Banking Houses. — Societies. — Hunting and Fishing. — Resorts. — Real Estate. — Opportunities for Profi- table Investments Nanaimo — Along the Island Railway. — Duncan's Station.— Cow- ichan Lake, the Garden of the Island. — Salt Spring Island. — Hunting and Fishing. — Coal Mining Industry. — Comox. — Fort Rupert. West Coast — Alberni.- Quatsino Sound.— Shipping and Cpaling Facilities of the Western Coast. — Romantic Scenery. Part 111. Mainland— New Westminster, Delta and Valley of the Fraser River — Salmon Curing and Manufacturing Industries. — Horticulture and Agriculture. — Trade and Commerce. Vancouver Jity — Rapid Growth and Importance as an Emporium of Commerce. — Manufacturing Industries. —Burrard InleL-r-VaatiLimber ' % ^^1, Trade. t ijf N. W .TflStOry JOPt. PROVINCIAL LIBRARY Q 9 ^ h c VICTORIA, ■. 0. 4 CONTENTS. Harrison Hot Sprinos— Health Resort. — Hunting and Fishing. — Romantic Scenery. Yale— Kamlooks— Cuttle Rancho Country. — Mining. Kootenay — The Western Killarney. — Rich Mining and Agricul- tural Country. — Schemes for Development. — Okanugan. -Uoniantic Scenery. — Rich Mining and Farming Country. — Rapid Dovolopment. Cariboo— Quartz Mining. — Projected Rrilway, Cassiar Country. — Mining.— Other Industries. Part IV. Voyage along the Coast — Seymour Narrows. — Bute Inlet. — Knight's Inlet. — Rivers Inlet. — Skeena. -Fort Simpson. — Queen Char- lotte Islands. — Vast Economic Resources. — Mining and Fishing In- dustries. — Future Prospects. GENERAL REMARKS. Cattle Ranching. — Horticulture. — Agriculture. — Cattle Raising. — Synopsis of Mining and Lumber Industries. — Hunting and Fishing. Mniing, Timber, Coal and Land Regulations. — Table of Distances. Real Estate and other Investments. —Hints to intending Settlers and Investors. — Concluding Remarks. , Part IV. (Continued.) - The Return Journey. — Shores of Puget Sound, U. S. — Port Angeles. — Port Townsend. — Seattle. — Tacoma. — Steamboats and Rail- ways. — Hotels, &c. •*->5 ^-^^^ H-^ 8- — 'icul- antic t. let.- Chur- ig In- 9ing. — pais of nces. — era and .—Port id Rail- THOS. eOGK & SON, HAlll\(|EI(^ OF m\f \p EXCUI(^I0N^. Oriifinators of tho World-renosvuod Tourist and KxcupmIoii liHheu 1841. specially iippoiiited b.v liis Koyal liiKhiu'ss tlu> System. l*iincM» of K'stuh- \N ales. Piii-sengcr AK<'»tH for t lie Royal British Connnijsion. Vienna. 1S7M; lMiiladeli)liin, 1876. I'aris, 1878, and Colonial and Indian, IK84!. Sole Owners of the Kirsl-C^lass Tourist Steaniora on the N'ile. Oflieial j^ Rents for all Indian Uuilwayb. <ionoral ra>THuni;er AKcnts for the Midland Railway of Kngland, &(;., &o., TKr-KOKAi'iiu; Addrkhh kok Lon'don and Pkovinciai, Okkickh.— Coupon. ^ LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON. CHIEF OFFICK, LUDGATE CIRCUS. LOx\l)ON. E. C. HRANCII OKKICE8. (Uty Offlee- W Green Clnirch St. West En-J Oftleea : 33 Piccadilly, and 82 Oxford Ptreet, Langhani Hotel, and Hotel Metrijjole. Mr. VVni. Whiteley's. Strand Offloc.— 44a West Strand. Holborn— First Avenue Hotel. Front of St. Pancras Station. Chrystal Palace— Tourist CJourt. Mnnr-hPstPr i ^^ Market street. Manchester ^ yy oidham Street. Liverpool.- -51 Lord Street. uir.r.iir,ryv.a..i I Stevcnsou Placo. Birmingham j .^ jjjjj at,.eet. Warsall.— Post Off. HdRs., The Bridge. Wolverhampton.— 37 Queen Street. Leeds.— 1. Royal Exchange. Bradford.— 8 Exch^tnge. Market St. Sheffield.— Chancre. Alley Corner. Nottingham.— IG Clumber S reet. Leicester.- 7, Oallowtree Gate. Edinburgh. —t), Princes Street. Glasgow.— 162, Argy.e Street. Obnn — The Esplanade, Dublin,- 42, Dame Street. Belfast.- 27. Royal Avenue. t>o,.i= ( 1' Place de I'opera, 51 Rue Scribe **^'^^ I and Grand Hotel. Nice.— 15, Quai Massenn. Cannes,— 71, Rue d'Antibes. Marseilles. — 44, Rue Noailles. Geneva.— 90, Rue du Rhone. Lucerne | Hotel du Cygnc Bruirsela.— 22 Galerie du Roi. Galicries Cologne.— 40, Domhof. LSt. Hubert. Vienna.— 2, Stejdmnsplat:;. Pest h.— .3. Dortheengasae. Rome. I K, Piazza dl Spagne. Naples.— Piazza del Martiri. Milan. -45, Piazza del Duomo. Florence,— 10, Via Turnabuoni. Venice. Hotel Victoria. Turin.- Hotel Trombolta. Brindisi. -Haglioni's Grand Hotel. Algiers. Sxuare Bresaon. Malta.- 308, Strada Reale. CHIEF AMERICAN OFFICE. 261-252, Broadway, N. V. Branch Okfices: Boston.- 332, Washington Street, Philadelphia.- South 8th Street. Chicago.— 232, South Clark Street. Jacksonville;.- 79, West Bay Street. ORIENTAL OFFICES. Constantinople.— 170, Grand Rue de Athens. — Place do laConatitution |Pera Cairo, ( Kg\ pi )— Cook's Pavilion. Alexandria.— Place Mahomet All. Jfitta, (Palestine) -.lerusalem Hotel. Jerus »l"m. Near the .Jaffa Gate. Bevrout. Near Hotel d'Urient. Calcutta.- 11, Old Court House Street. AUSTRALASIA. Adelaide. Sydney. Melbourne. Auckland. (Extract.) Ludgate Circus, London, E. C, November 26th, 1889. 6 TOUKIHTS' PICTORIAL (JUIDE. HoBKRT MacManuh, EftQ. , P. O. Box 208. Thb Tourists' Pictoiial Guide and Hand Book, To B. C. Publishing Company, Victoria, B. C. Dear Sir : We are in receipt of your letter of the 19th ult. * * * With regard to the distribution oi your new Tourist Pictorial Guide to British Columbia, * * ♦ we can place same on sale a^ this ana our various Branch Offices, a list of which you will find above. * * * Yours truly, (Signed) Tiios. Cook & Son, Per E. A. Harrison. 1 a 1 It 1 t< 1 ti :::-:r:::: q INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. * With to British ir various Across the Atlantic and Continent of A' erica to Victoiici, British Columbia. Son, Harrison. PART I. Many of the tourist cIhss in the I'nited Kini^doin and the Continent are of upiniou that the well worn tracks of trjuriat travel are becoming somewhat stale and monotonous. The facilities for rapid transit in the pre- sent day creates a desire for extended tdiira beyond the bounds of old fashioned routes to distant lands ; and the isolated countries which, a few years as^o, were considered only app'oacViablo by intrepid circum- navigators and explorers in seax'ch of new discf-veries and j>eo<^raphical knowledge, are, today, by the Ocean modern Atlantic "Greyhounds," .nnd the construction of great continental railways, replete with all the conveniences of comfort and luxury, brought as near t<i London as the n»>rth of Scotland was at the commencement of the present century. Till the advent of that gigantic undertakiiig of Imperial and Colonial import- ance -the Canadian Pacific Railway — little or nothing was known of that portion of the Empire which, washed for over eight hundred miles of its indented coast by the placid waters of the Northern Pacific Ocean, is known to modern geographers as British C(»lumbia, the most western province of the Dominion of Canada, and where it may be said the west ceases and the east commences. Now-a-day.s a tour to the Alpine regions of Switzerland, a trip up the Rhine, a voyage to the coast of Norwaj', or the sunny Medit.!''"anean, is l«K)ked uf)on as a mere holiday outing of a week or so. It will bo admit- ted that the travelling conveniences of the day deprives such journeys of much of their old time adventure. In our fathers' early days, the "grand tour " of the continent was considered the copest^me of ace mplishment and education. Things are diflerent n(»\v in these closing years of the nineteenth century. The older tourist routes can boast of nothing new to be seen, nor nothing new to be explored. The requirements of the times*, therefore, calls for a remedy to dispel the einiui of monotony. The question is often asked, " Where shall we go this season ?" The answer N ill I lii ! lil 8 TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. is: Go to British Columbia, where the climate, equable at all seasons, is most enjoyable, salubrious and iuvigoratinj? — a country where the tourist will find the natural aspect of things so varying and different in scenery, of mountain, sea and lake, forest, wood and stream, which for stupendu- ous proportions, extent and magnitude of grandeur, have few, if any, competitors. Europe can proudly boast of the hoary ruins of fallen Em- pires and Kingdoms of ancient days, the art collections of centuries, and those grand structures of architecture, with which the new world cannot be expected to compete. Nature, to remedy the defect, here steps in and exhibits to the visitor, in this Utopian Land of the Pacific, the moct magniticent and gigantic desiL'ns of her conception, and has traced in choicest colors, with an inimitable pencil, on three hundred and forty thousand square miles of territory, the most .sublime sketches of her creation ! The extent and sublimity of the tive hundred miles of moun- tain scenery traversed by the Canadian Pacific Railway, and the splendor of countless wooded islands — set as gems of emerald in the silvery waters of the Pacific, along the extended shores, diversified by coves, bay^ and shady inlets piercing the rock-bound coast, with bold headlands and jut- ting promontories, thrown into sharp relief by a back-ground of snow- capped mountains, must be seen to ba adequately appreciated. The Al- pine regions of Switzerland, the beauty of Geneva or Coma, the fjords and pine-clad inlets of Norway, or the classic shores of the Mediterranean, stripped of their romance, become dwarfed and paled when compared with the grand display of Nature's pictures in this fairy wonderla'd. The poetic descriptive power of a Sir Walter Scott, or the gifted genius of a Gainsborough or a Turner, might attempt to do justice to this — the ni'ist elaborate of Nature's panoramas. As yet all attempts of pen and pencil in this direction has been vain indeed. *' One hundred and thirty-eight degrees west from Greenwich and still in Britain," is one of the proud mottoes of British Columbia. A long journey, certainly, still only about fourteen or sixt en days from London. Seven thousand miles in sixteen days ! Seems something like the power of the genii of Aladin's lamp. When the best of the London season is over, the "Two Thousand," the " Derby " and "Ascot" have passed and and gone, a change is desirable. The languid require something new and exciting, und energy must be restored. In order to dispel lassitude and restore both mind and body, and intoxicate the senses by a copious draught from the inexhaustible tap of Nature, let the intendi- g tourist secure a passage by the Canadian Pacific Railway, via New York, Halifax or Quebec, to Victoria, the Capital City of the Province f)f British Columbia. A midsummer voyage across the Atlantic on board one of th > "Ocean Greyhounds " u something enjoyable, The tourist will find the uffioials of the Canadian Pacitic Railway obliging and painstaking in iuiparting ^ TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. seasons, is e the tourist in scenery, >r stupendu- few, if any, if fallen Em- nturies, and vorkl cannot ere steps in tic, the mopt las traced in d and forty itches of her les of moun- the splendor (ilve'y waters es, bay^ and ,nd3 and jut- nd of snow- ed. The Al- a, the fjords editerranean, ten compared iiderla'd. The 1 genius of a [his — the most ii and pencil in Jreenwich and umbia. A long J from London, like the i)ower don season is ave passed and jthing new and spel lassitude Bs by a copious tendi'g tourist York, Halifax nee of British 5(»f th« "Ocefin ud the t»fficials ija; in imparting information, and unremitting in their attention for the comfort, conveni- ence and safety of their passengers, from the Conductor (or Uuard), who is the pink of politeness and neatness, down to the newsboy (?) This latter individual is something akin to the reputed Irish " bhoy " regard- ing age " nayther too young nor too owld;" he is invariably the best barbered "boys " in America, which may, in a manner, account for his youthful appellation. The traveller will find him assiduous in endeavor- ing to dispose of his wares, apples, oranges candy, nuts, books, and the latest publications of leading periodicals and newspapers. (>n other rail- ways this innocent "boy " would try some boyish tricks on the "green- horn " passenger by a quiet game of " draw poker," or the " three card nionte," or the "dollar bill book trick," make boyish mistakes in giving change, and other little boyish dodges to while away the tediousness of a long journey. None of these harmless amusements are, however, per- mitted on the cars of the Canadian Pacitic Railway. The stoppins; places and dimng stations are marked on the company's time-tables in this volume, also the sections in the wilderness, where dining cars are attached to the train, in which sumptuous meals and wines are served to passengers at moderate rates. The smart, ubit]uitous " breaksman," trim, neat and well harbored, too, will give due warning of all stations, dining places, etc., and cry out bef(ire the train starts, in a loud stentorian voice, "all a-b-o-o-o-r-r-d," which means, in American railway parlance, "take your seats, please." How the phrase "all aboard" came into use is not certain. Long journeys and the up and down swaying motion of rude railways in early times may have suggested the sea going words. En route the "cul'd genTmn" of the Pullmm Sleeping car will be found everything desirable as valet, housemaid or general intelligence officer of the brigade. Care should be taken t- have all the luggage, or as it is designated in America "baggage," checked for its destination, Victoria, B. C, before starting on the journey across the continent. By this "checking" system it is impossible to hnve your luggage mislaid or lost. The com- pany are respcmsible as long as the passenger retains the duplicate " check," which never should be surrendered till the piece of luggage it represents is delivered. A separate brass "check" is given for each separate piece. En route, a visit to the historic Plains of Abraham at Quebec, to Montreal, the mercantile capital of the Dominion; a run down the mighty St. Lawrence through " The Thousand Islands," from Kingston, would be interesting ; Niagara, Toronto and Ottawa are also accessible. A choice of routes lies at the op^^ion of the tourist. Either by steamer across the vast Superior, or around that inland sea by the north pl.ore all rail route to Port Arthur, situated on the western shore of the lake. 10 tourists' pictorial guide. I [\': IP I The ragged country through which lies this part of the jourtiey is thickly wooded, rocky, and abounding lu chains of small picturesque lakes. Rich deposits of silver are being worked at Port Arthur and around the shores o^ Thunder Bay, also at R»t Portage, Lake of the Woods. From Port Arthur, then Prince Arthur's Landing (after H. R. H. the Duke of Connaught) started the first n)ilitary expedition General Lord Wolseley had the honor to commiud. Some 1,000 men, 200 voy- agers and followers, with arms, ammunition, four mountain guns, provi- sions and munitions of war for a twelve months' campaign, were trans- ported by means of boats and portaginor along the waterways extending from Lake Superior to Winnipeg, then Fort Garry, for the suppression of the Red River Rebellion under Reil in 1870. This expedition was about three months on the road, or rather water, before reaching its destination. Four hundred miles of wilderness travel in three months was looked upon then as an extraordinary feat. During Reil's last effort of rebellio', in 1885, at Prince Albert, 500 miles north-west of Winnipeg and 300 miles from the railway, 5,000 troops, with all munitions, were placed in the Saskatchewan country in about as many weeks. What a contrast ! From Winnipeg the journey across the great western prairies may be said to commence. The rich, well cultivated districts along the rail- way, Portage la Prairie, Brandon, M<josomin, are passed during daylight. At Moosomin, Assiniboia, the second steppe of the prairies will be as- cended, i'he celebrated "Bell Farm" and the picturesque little hamlet of Qu'Appello, alsoRegina— "the Queen City of the plains," are passed dur- ing the night. Being now on the great ocean of prairie, " 800 niiles across," there is little to attract the attention of the tourist. A mono- tony of ttand hills and dunes, like billows on the wide expanse of ocean prairie, without a tree, shrub, or human habitation. The total absence of life, except it be a solitary raven or chicken-hawk, fox or prairie wolf, or, mayhap, now and then a herd of antelopi or jumping deer to enliven ♦ he vast expanse of waste. At the statiors of importance the scene will be animated by the presence of the red-coated mounted policeman, or the red aborigine, both in full war paint, mingling with a motley gather- ing of the few inhabitants oi" the place. The railway wiped out the buffalo that once roamed at large over these plains, and replaced them by the sleek looking cattle seo^ grazing along the route, as the train tra- verses the grass region of Alberta. At Glichen, the natural gas fountain claims a passing ir>tice. Here the foot-hills of the Rockies are first discerned looming up on the western horizon like huge banks o' clouds. The important town of Calgary occupies a picturesque situation on the south bank of the Bow River, and is notable as the chief town of the the great cattle country. To the west rises the apparently impenetrable wall of the Rocky Mountains, forming a fittinir shore line to the vast sea of prairie. TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 11 journey is picturesque Arthur and Ijake of the (after H. R. ion Genera] n, 200 voy- ;uns, provi- were trans - 8 extending ippression of )edition was reaching its iree months i's last effort of Winnipeg , were placed t a contrast ! prairies may ong the rail- ing daylight. 3s will beas- ble hamlet of ) passed dur- "800 miles A mono- ise of ocean 3tal absence prairie wolf, ir to enliven le scene will )liceman, or itley gather- iped out the :)]aced them le train tra- gas fountain ies are first 3 o' clouds, ation on the town of the mpenetrable the vast sea From Calgary the railway climes up the incline of the valley of the Bow, keeping closely to its banks while it slowly ascends the eighty miles required to reach the highest altitude of this great continental line of railway on the summit of the Rockies. The pondemus engines in use on the mountain sections are specially constructed for this particular service. The monster arrives puffing and panting laboriously at Banff, where breathing time to engine and passengers are permitted. Banff is famed for its medicmal sulphur hot springs and palatial hotel, the Canadian National Park, and its anthracite coal mines now being rapidly developed. The National Park is a Government undertaking, and walks and drives have been constructed amidst the surroundings of wild roman- tic beauty. Mountains of 6,000 feet altitude tower above the spectator, Banff will be worth a visit. Good trout fishing can be had in the neigh- borhood. The tourist is now nearing the summit of the First range of the Rockies proper,from which the railway descends by steep gradients to the Columbia River, and thence by the valley of Beaver Creek ascends the Selkirks or Second range and through the Rodgers Pass the line plunges again down to the valley ©f the Columbia, and, crossing it for the second time, ascends the Third or Gold Range, finally penetrating the Cascade, or Coast Range, by the valley of the Fraser to the Pacific. The voyage of 500 miles across the " Sea of Mountains" now lies before the tourist. The few passing remarks given to the " Great Lone Land," although necessary, are not, properly speaking, within the province of the task here undertaken. The Canadian Pacific Railway Company issues a guide book, which fully dilates on the country traversed by its line, which may be obtained on application to the London and other ageuci* s throughout the United Kingdom or on board the train. I THE SEA OF MOUNTAINS. Near Laggan, as the little stption on " The Summit " is called, lies the boundary line between the Province of British Columbia and the Northwest Territories. Here the waters divide. A small lake, with no visible inlet or outlet, acts as the pivot on which the watershed balance may be said to turn between the waters of the Pacific and the Atlantic ; the waters flowing east, emptying by the Saskatchewan River, Lake Win- nipeg and Nelson River into Hudson's Bay, and those flowing west by the Columbia River into the Pacific. The summit has nw altitude above sea level of 5,000 feet, hile the neighboring towering peaks in view, IMount Stephen and the Cathedral have an ascertained altitude of 10,525 and 10,284 feet respectively. w h I 12 . tourists' pictorial guide. The Rev. W. Spotswood Green, during recent exploration in the Alpine iSjgions of the Rockies, where ho was accompanied by the Rev. H. Swanzy, and which was graphically described by him before the Royal Geographical Society, represents Mount Lefroy (11,058 feet) near Lag- gan, as the highest measured peak in British Territory. At the base of this peak a beautiful lake was discovered, to which the name " Lake Louise " was given. It is within easy distance fr. m Laggan, and forms " the most perfect gem of Alpine scenery as it is possible to imagine." The tourist standing < n the railway track is, as it were, midway between the sea level and the highest peaks. The following table gives the actual ascertained altitude of the principal peaks along the route of railway : — Above Above Mountans. Named Aftor. Sea the Level. C.P.R. Mount Stephen — Sir Geo. Soephen, Bart., a Director of the C. P. R 10,525 6,474 Cathedral Mountain— 10,284 5,966 Mount Dennis— The late Surveyor-General of Canada. , 7,791 3.920 Mount Field— C. P. R. Engineer 8,554 4,505 Mount Russell— Late Assistant Surveyor-General 9,321 5,372 Mount Carnarvon — Lord Canarvon, Colonial Secretary. 8,876 4,827 Mount Macdonald— Sir John A. Macdonald, Conserva- tive K'remier of Canada, the great conceptor of the C.P.R 9,440 5,558 Mount Tupper — Sir Chas. Tupper, High Commissioner to London 9,063 4,983 Mount Sir Donald— Sir D. A. Smith, Hon. H. B. Co., leading Directot C. P. R 10,645 6,980 Mount Bonny — (Explored by Rev. S. Green) Mr. Bonr y, African Traveler and Explorer 10,622 6,057 Ross Peak— A Trader H. B. Co., author an>l explor. r. . . 7,616 3,651 Mount Beubie- Sir M. B. Begbie, Lord Chief Justice of British Columbia 9,006 7,339 Mount CARTiER-Sir Gen. Cartier, one of the fathers of Caaadiar Confederation 8,576 6.909 Mount McPherson— The late Sir David McPherson, Minister of the Interior 8,057 6,390 Mount McKenzie — Hon. Alex. McK^^nzie, Liberal Pre- mier of Camda 7,563 5,396 Mount Tilley — Sir Leonard Tilley, member of Sir John A. Macdonald's Cabinet and Minister of Railways .. , 7,776 6,109 m in the e Rev. H. ihe Royal near Lag- .he base of ne " Lake md forma agine." 5, midway :able gives e route of )ve Above a the vel. C.P.R. 525 6,474 284 5,966 791 3.920 554 4,505 321 5,372 876 4,827 440 5,558 063 4,983 645 6,980 622 6,057 616 3,651 006 7,339 576 6.909 057 6,390 563 5,396 776 6,109 ' TOURIST-s' PICTORtAL OUIDE. 13 In vain may be lo ked for a " Mount Blake," in recognition of the Canadian statesman, who in a burst of pjlitical sarcasm, coined the term "Sea of Mountains." Before entering on the voyage of descent to the coas', a short syn- opsis of the history, topography and climate of British Columbia will be of interest t > the tourist. HISTORY. In the year 1520, Ferdinand Magalhaens, termed by us Magellan, a native of Portugal, in the service of the Kinsr of Casfcile, was sent by Cardinal Xinienes on a v yage of discovery. Coasting the shores of South America he me'ged int • the Southern Ocean, sailing onward many weeks in the same direction, wiihout the sight of land, that ocean seemed to grow va3ter every day. So calm and free from storms did he find its waters, that he gave it the appellation ot Pacific. Afterwards the Span- iards, who had crossed the Isthmus of Danan, claimed and took posses- sion of the Pacific, and extended their conquests along its tastern sliores to Peru and Chili on the caie side and California on the other ; but as their greatness as a nation declined, th ir ardour for discovery cooled. Thus geographers perceived that within the bounds of the Pacific immense spaces yet remained unknown. Spain became indolent, and on the British devolved the cost, the tfiil, the danger ; and to Britain the glory belongs. In 1767 ^. British ship Swallow, under command of Capt, Cateret, discovered the Queen Charlotte Islands. Capt. '((ok, the great circum- navigator, in his third voyage round the world in search of the north-west passage, anchored some weeks at Nootka Sound, on the west coast of Vancouver Island, and in 1778 carried his discoveries along the coast beyond Behring Sea until within the Polar Circle. On the death of Cook the foil I wing y ar, the voyage of exploration was continued along the coast to Alaska by his successor in command, Capt. Clarke, who, in turn, died a martyr to duty. In 1789 Captain Vancouver explored the waters of the Gulf of Georgia and completed the coast survey of the Island which bears his name, and the adjacent mainland, and thus, in prophetic language, describes the future of the wild scenes of his explor- ations; — " To describe tlie beauties of this region will, on some future occasion, be a grateful task to the pen of the skilltul panegyrist. The serenity of the climate, the innumerable pleasing landscapes, and the abundant fertility that nature puts forth, require to b^ enriched by the industry of man, with villages, mansions, cottages and other buildings to render it the most lovely country that can be imagined, whilst the labor 14 tourists' pictorial guide. '; i ■h of the inhabitants would be amply rewarded in the bounties which na- ture seems ready to bestow on cultivation." Spain made claims to the whole coast by right of discovery by a mythical voyager called Juan de Fuca at the close of the sixteenth cen- tury, whose name is sti'l borne by the straits separating Vancouver Island from the mainland to die south. In the declining years of the last century, Alexander McKenzie, an employee of the Nor'-West Fur Co., after exploring the McKeiizie River basin to the Arctic Ocean, crossed the Rockies by way of Peace River, and reached the coast. Subsequently another fur trader discovered and gave his name to the Fraser River. The Astiir Fur Co., of New York, established fur trading posts on the Columbia River in the early part of the present century. The amal- gamated fur companies — Hudson's Bay and Nor'-West Co. 's — established tradin'g posts along the coasts, securing for the Czar of Russia the privi- lege of the Alaaka fur trade on condition of supplying the Russian settlers there with flour and other provisions. A trading post and farm were accordingly establishej in 1844 on Vancouver Island, to which was given the name of Victoria, in honor of Her Majesty the Queen. Vancouver Island was established as a Crown Culony in 1849, and in 1857 the Crown Colony of British Columb'a, on the Mainland, with, New Westminster as the capital, was also established. In 1858 the two colonies were incorporated as the Colony of British Columbia, with the City of V^ictoria as the Capital. The Colony in 1871 joined the fed- eration of the Dominion of Canada, thus completing the chain of British Provinces into one grand whole, stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The discovery of gold in 1857 caused an influx of miners and their followers from California. The simple trading of Victoria became, at a bound, a city of 30,000 inhabitants. The gold fever suddenly collapsed, and the country became again almost deserted, to be revived again in 1861. TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE. The Province of British Columbia lies north of the 49bh degree of latitude ; is some 700 miles long by about 500 miles broad, and contains an estimated area of 340,000 square miles. It embraces the mountain- ous region to the west of the prairies, constituted of a number of ranges running almost parallel to each other from north to south, and with the exception of the Coast range, tapering iff into hills towards the Arctic coast. The surface of the country between the Rocky mountains and TOUUISTS' PICTORIAL OUIDE. ta ?nzie, an the coast may be divided into two raouncainous districts on either side of ft high plateau country, which extends, averaging in width about 100 miles, up the interior of the Province. The topography of a country in- fluences the climate in a great measure. Thus in British Columbia will be found the extremes of the western prairie couur>ry in the higher eastern portion, decreasing in range of temperature till a climate un- rivalled in the wjrld prevails ou the coast and adjacent islands. To the influence of Knro Siwo, or Japanese current, must |be at- tributed so desirable a benefit. From this warm current — the Gulf Stream of the North Pacific, which fluwiug n rth and by east from the coast of Japan, curving down along the Pacific coast line of A.merica, springs an almost constant current of warm air landward. When ver it penetrates there winter ceases, and delightful sjiriiig or summer reigns supreme — frost and drought being almost unknown. Sometimes iui pelled by atmospheric pressure, this warm current of air pvsscs up 'he valleys of the intervening mou itains to the prairies beyond, even to Man- itoba, still retaining a portion of its warmth. This soft, balmy bretzo is gladly welcomed, and a "Chinook" as it is termed, in mid-winter changes, as if by magic, the climatic aspect of affairs in that region of rigorous frc.st. The climate of the island oi Vancouver, which stretches along the covstofthe Mainland for 300 miles, resembles v^ rv much that ot the Channel Islands. Although " the grass giows green" and many shrubs and fruit trees leaf and blossom during what is 'ermed winter, spring may be said to fairly commence etrly in March. In April with perpetual sunshine and showers, the fresh bloom of vegetation and variegated flowers is simply delightful. May and June with ever prevalent sun- shine, a'ld fragrant balmy breezes, their wealth of roses and h) ley- suckles, and refreshing showers, concede to them the palm for every- thing that is glorious or desirable in the enjoynnnt of life. July a id August are sup ib in their wealth or ripening fruit, heavenly days and nights cooled by the refreshing bre8Z3. S 'pteaiber, calm and serene, the bright sunshine now and then clouded by welcomed rain, when the earth again assumes it garb of spring. October, not chilly, but warm ; *' the sere and yellow leaf " begins to bestr-jw the earth, and towards the end the rainy season may be said t© commence. A little hoar frost may be now looked for. The face of Nature assumes a coat of verdure rivalling that of the Emerald Isle. Many shrubs and plants burst forth into leaf and blossom, strawberries and raspberries (the second crop) are no rarity, even in November. The days are bright and warm, no\T and then the crmtinuous sunshine is darkened by a downpour of rain, which soon clears off, and so on up to Christmas. January generally opens mild, and the ever prevailing sunshine dispels the thought of winter; wall flowers, primroses and daisies gladden 16 TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDBl. !| the eye. In February, and only in February, what the British Columbians term "severe weather" may be expected. On the Island of Vancouver and the shores of the Mainland, snow and electric disturbances are almost unknown. The h^at in summer is nothing excessive, about 80 degrees, the evenings are cool and bracing. The rain-fall and cold in winter, and the heat and drought, on the Main- land, are a little in excess of that of the Island of Vancouver and adjacent islands. The average rai'i-fall on the latter, at Victoria, is about twenty-six inches, at New Westminster, on the Mainland, there is about fifty-eight inches, and in the interior plateau of the interior about ten inches during the year. The greater portion of the rain-fall occurs during the winter months. The summer hevt at Victoria is tem- pered by the cool breexe invariably blowing from the snow-covered range of the Olympian mountaii s across the Straits of Fuca, and the mercury has never been known to register "zero" irj winter. The Marquis of Lome, K. T., speaking of Victoria, in December, 1882, said: "No words can be too strong to express the charm of this delightful land, where the climate, softer and more constant than that of the south of England, ensures at all times of the year a full enjoyment of the wonder- ful loveliness of nature around you." There is a great diversity of climate in British Columbia, and even on the Island o\ Vancouver. On the west shores of that Island the effects of the Japanese current is more marked on climate, plants and vegetation; there is more rain during the summer and less during the winter than on the east of the ridge of mountains which run down its centre. At Alberni, on tha west, fruit and vegetiblea are wonders of luxuriance, and excel in excellence and flavor. What are mere shrubs on the east attain the dignity of trees on the west coast. The train coming into Victoria from Nanaimo, 76 miles north, will be often sprinkled with snow, although summer weather may be prevading at the former. The climate of the whole will be round to be very invigorating and sulubrious, colder in the northern interior than in the south, yet along the coast and adjacent islands the same delightful, equable range of tem- perature exists, with very little variation, as that in the Island of Van- couver. There is a choice of climates of heat and cold, humidity and mildness. ACROSS " THE SEA OF MOUNTAINS." The most magnificent portion of the "Sea of Mountains, ' from Langan to Kamloijps, a distance of 300 miles, will be traversed during daylight. The railway descent of the western slope of the First range of the Rocky Mountains is very rapid. A splendid view of the passing panor- niou note this inte ac' kno trib 111, at I Scrl) h<it( (1, m fOITRiSTS* PICTORlAt OUlI)^. 17 ama of "mountain and ot flood" may be obtained, wera tho tourist per- mitted to ride in front of the engine on the "cow-catcher," that from the platform of the rear car is, h<jwover, more extensive than thi view from the car window. Maybe tho nerves of the touris' will bo put to tin test as he gazes in amazement and wonder at the quickly passing, awe inspir- hig ste p mountain side, crag, gorge and canyon, the boiling torrent running a rac ', as it were, with the speeding train, the snake-like curva- tures skirting the brow of almost fathomless abysses, and the screw-like twistinga of the line; the headlong downward speed, the sudden grinding, jolting motion, as the powerful brakes are applied. No cause for fear : every precaution as yet devised by the ingenuity of man is taken by the railway compiny for the safety of the train and its living freight. The safety of travel and total absence of accidents on the Canadian Pacific Railway has become proverbial An opening in the surrounding wall of ii.ountains through which the train glides down to the valley of the ri or and the celebrated "Kicking Horse" detile is passed. Here, at the station of Field, the tourist finds himself alongside the giant "Mount Stephen" rearing its head aloft 8,000 feet above the track. "Mount Stephen House," built in the style of the Swiss chalet, to bo in keeping with the Alpine surroundings, one of several of the kind erected by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company at various points of interest along the route for the especial convenience of tourists. The accommodations ard hrst-class in every respect, and tne charges moderate. (See Hotels.) Crossing the Columbia, the largest stream on the Pacific Slope of America, at Donald, thfe railway follows the course of that river for some distance; then over the rocky valley of the Beaver that separates the Rocky Mountains, from the Second, or Selkirk range. The Selkirks are part of the Rocky Mountain formation, and virtually composes part of the back bone of the continent. The train slowly creeps up the forest- clad sides of the S Ikirks through the "Rodgei's Pass." The dense, dark green f(jrests of the giant Douglas Pine and Cedar in the valleys and on mountain sides appear in that luxuriance for which the Selkirks are noted. lunum rable snowy peaks look down upon the passing train — this is region of glaciers which gathered from the snows of ages into an interceptible moving mass of ice, are many hundred feet in depth, and ac' nowledged by all travellers to be the most extensive glacier region known. From the waters of the glaciei's springs the source of the tribjlent IllecillewHet. "Tiie Glacier House"— another chalet, where many tourists remain for days enraptured with the wild surrounding scenery. Nothing can surpass the view observable from this mountain hotel on the breezv summit of the Selkirks. The huge smooth sides of "Mount Sir Donald" and "Mount. Bonny," springing from the glacier bed, with other giant comrades spread oul in an Alpine mountain wave of vast extent — tho bewildering multitude of stupendous rocks, their m^ 18 TOURISTS PfCTORIAL OUIDE. snowy peaks assumintj fantastic forms, varied and many huod— the dark green density of the forest — the voices of roiring floods, foaming? catar- acts and bounding cascades tumbling down and sweeping from the disem- bowled mountains the virgin gold; the superb summer climate, the clear exhilerating air, calculated to renew the strength of mind and body, the eye in reverential awe, roves over the immensity of the varied landscape of this western Tyrol. 'Tis, indeed, a land of wonder. Leaving the glacier regions, the train speeds on. crossing the Gold and Coast ranges through inconceivable difllcultius, which have become so many triumphs of engineering skill. The railways descends the western slope of the Selkirks following the course of the Illecillewaet. During cons ruction, at the base of "Ross Peak," was encountered the greatest obstacle to the progress of the hne. Here a sudden precipitous clitf for a time defif^d the art of man — bridging was out of the question; so a series of lofty trestle work was decided on, and what is known as "tho Loop" the result. It tries the nerves of the strongest when sliding down, as it were, this six miles of cork-screw railway required to cross the yawning gulf of tivo miles and a half. Here also is the Albert Canyon, 300 hundred feet deep from the railway and about 30 feet wide at the top, at the bottom of vvhich tlie confined waters of the river rushes and roars in boiling fury till it reach s what is called "the gate," through which they e3Crtpe with redoubled maddened energy. An opening! and the train leaves the mountain shade, seeking the valley of the Columbia for the las*", time, and the Second mountain wave lies in the wake of the train. Revelstoke occupies a pretty situation in the open at the second railway crossing of the Columbia river, and is the proposed junction of the contemplated branch line of railway to the south, to open up the rich, beautifully romantic Kootenay district, which at present is almost inaccessible. An endeavor is mad 3 to open up communicatitni to the rich mines and fertile vales of Kootenay Lake by river steamers, etc. When the railway is completed, this Killarney of the west will form one of the chief attractions to the tourist and capitalist. The shades of evening fall apacf, the retreating suns lights up the mountain tops into flames of goH, as the train rushes through the Eagle P.*S8 on the shores of the fairy Shuswap Lakes, beautiful in everything save in name. To the south of these Lakes lie the fertile districts of Okanagan and Spallumcheen (British Columbia "bangs Banagher" for euphonious names of places), to which a branch line of railway is now under course of construction, opening up another delightful locality rich in mines, soil, romantic scenery, and every good gift in the power of kind nature to bestow. - ■ tftl'RlHTH PICTORIAL OUinii. Id Leaving the shores of the Shuawivp Lakes, the course of the railway follows the valley of the 8outli 'Ihoinpsou river to Kaiuloops, a fast growing, tiiriving town, sitimteil on the higli plateau of the interior be- tween the (Jold and Cascade ranges, at the junction of the north and south branclu's of the riv(M-, to which further reference will be made hereafter (see Kandoops). The remainder of the journey by rail to the coast lies ov. r the Cascade or Coast ranges by the valley of the Fraser river. A*- Kandoops, settlement may be said toconimenco along the Pacific Slope ro\ite of the railway. Night enfolds the country in darkness, and no doubt the day's journey has furnished the observant tourist with food for meditation, and he vill by this time be competent to form an opiniim as to the beauty and grandeur of the 300 miles of mountain just com- pleted. Lonesome and desolate seemed the awe inspiring magnitude of Nature, spread immense in wildest form along that 300 miles of mountain grandeur. Rich in scenic romantic beauty, and richer yet, beyond com- pare, in the wealth of undeveloped resources (»f mine nn 1 for> st in its unexplored valleys, only awaiting the magic touch of capital and enter- prise to awaken and call into life and activity industries innumerable. A grand heritage, certainly, and one that should not be willingly slighted or slurred over by those on the outlook for sure, sound investments. Two hundred and fifty miles more and the fc rminus will bo reache The railway passes through a country exhibiting the same rugged moun- tain features in a m )dified. form, possessing a full share of excitement and interest. Folllowing the maddening headlong course of the Thomp- son, as it rushes and boils through the yaw?iing chasms beneath, crossing tha' river at Lytton, about daylight, the train enters the renowned canyon of the Fraser, so graphically described by Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle in the "Nor'- West Passage by Land," playing, as it were, at bide and seek, in and out those chambers of horror — the four tunnels, over lofty trestle and viaducts, along the verge of dizzy clifis, so as to escape from the terrible canyon; bursting at length, in the flush of early morn, into the open at the North Bend. Here will be found another haven of rest for the tourist — "The Fraser Canyon House." The Thompson river on reaching Lytton plunges into the Fraser, lending all its force and pov/er in forcing a passage through the deep g'^rges until the united waters reach Yale, where, as if exhausted by previous fury, the angry stream assumes some degree of quietude. At the head of the Fraser river navigation, and at the mouth of the Fraser canyon, nestles the picturesque, historic town of Yale. This little town played a very important part during the golden era of British Coiuiubia. From here starts the world renowned Cariboo w i 20 TOUBI8T8 I'UrrORIAL (JUIDE, road, built under the supervisiun of the Koyal Eiif^ineers in 1802, to the gold fields of Cariboo, a distance of tome throe hundred miles. It stands to-day as much a monument of road making engineering as the famous Roman roads of Britain. RETROSPECTIVE. While enjoying the dry bracing air of early forenoon, experiencing a relief from the serictus, awe-inspiring journey just completed, passing from the religious twilight of overhanging mountains out into the open day — the bright sun shining down — observe that threid-like streak, re- sembling a mountain goat path, winding along the hill sides and preci- pices, stretching in its si luous course towards the golden land of Cariboo. Up the course of that road the early golil-seeker crawled, borne down with his load of blankets, provisions and rude itnplementa of mining, tearing himself along through briar and thorn, bush and brake, toiling up mountain steeps, and down break neck precipices, along the brink of dizzy cliffs and deep ravines, through untrodden forests and enduring every conceivable misery, difficulty and trial, hardship and Drivati(»n known to miserable man for a distance of 300 miles to the El Dorado of his dreams ! Returning, after a while, experiencing the same misery, as heavily laden as he went up with the "sordid dross" that he ventured life and limb, health and Comfort to secure. Stretch the imagination a little yet and think that down that "trail" poured two train loads of solid gold ! It still pours down in a lessened volume. Cariboo is as rich as ever — distance tells asrainst its productiveness, Three hundred miles of mountain road " is a hard road to travel." Thfl auriferous deposits of the creeks have "panned out " the last " color," but there remains the imprisoned wealth in the rich ores of its mountains, that can only be ex- tracted by means of capital. Railways require to be built, crushers and smelters and other appliances are necessary to release the golden stream from its obstructions, when it will again pour down in increased volume. The old placer "mining" has pa.ssed and go le as far as the Fraser river valley is concerned, yet the traveller will observe along the banks, as he whirls past, the ever prevalent Celestial patiently workin:^the "played out " claims, that in early days rendered up their millions, satisfied with the returns, else the wily "John " would not be wasting his time. What a motley crowd travelled along that road in the early sixties i Might was right, and the lawlessness of California reigned supreme, till the present Lord Chief Justice, Sir Matthew Baillie Begbie, accompanied by a few constables as representing British law and oii r, arrived upon the scene, and changed as if by magic, the entire aspect of affairs. " Boys," Bald his Lordship to the miners, "if there's shooting in Cariboo, there'll TOT'lUSTS PICTORIAL OriPK. be hanging." FU'salt : there was no shctotinp, consequently no hanging. The Btern bearing of the representuhves of the hiw beinj^ autHcient to cow the reckless, timing' ruth ais who ((uickly freed Cariboo and the Coh)ny of their undesirable |)re8ejice, and soiii^ht their former hainits in "the hvnd of the free," disgusted at what they termed British tyrat)cy. THK LAST IHNimKI) MILES. novr lies before tiie tourist, and the good fairy is about to raise the curtain for the grand trauBformation scene of the piece. Bidding idieu to the solenmity and silence < f 500 miles <f mountain, gloom snd ser ous- ness are left behind. The tourist is bound for Victoria tj- boftuciful, the city of sunshine and of roses, romantic scenery and sylvaa glades. It must be borne in mind that the season is at its height, and desirable hotel accommodation lay bo scarce. As yet there are only four hotels, which stand in order of precedence us to excellence as hero given : The Driard, first-class in every resjiect ; the Clarence and the Oriental, cheaper rates, good exceptional accommodation and cuisine ; the Occi- de- tal, a superior cheap family hotel. These hotels are centrally situated in the business portion of the city. There are besides, several private lx»arding houses, f)f which the "Roccabella" and Mrs. Frank Flichards, Jr., take the lead. (iood boarding and lodging may be obtained in private h uses during the season. A telegram to any of the foregoing houses or to the othce of this Guide, stating accommodation reciuired, will be punctually attended to, so that on arrival at Victoria, inconvenience and delay may be avoided. (For further particulars, see Hotels, Vict-ria). The train, as if with more confidence, rushes along the steep banks of the valley of the Fraser, passing Hope, a pretty little town on the banks of that stream ; Westminslor Junction, Port Moody, on the shores of Burrard Inlet, the first tide water of the Pacific touched by the rail- w:-iy. Another five miles along the shores of the Inlet, and the journey of three thousand miles, from ocean to ocean will bo completed. The latter portion of the journey passes through a partially settled, rough, heavily timbered country. The humidity of the climate induces largegrowthof foresttrees— thewell-known Douglas pin' — Abies BoJiglasii, attaining a height < f four hundred feet, and a diameter of from six to ten feet. This tree was so named by its discoveri r, David Douglas, a native of Scone, Scotland, (with whom it was a special favorite), who was sent out to the Columbia by the Hudson's Bay Co. in 1824 as botanical collector and expUirer. Douglas served an apprenticeship of seven years with the trmlener of Scone Palace, and afterwards received employment in the Botanic Garden at Glasgow, where, from being an humble employee, he in a few years became the favorite student and companion of the cele- bratetl botanist, Sir J. W. jHooker. Having fulfilled his mission as 22 TOUKIftTS PICTORIAL (iUIDR. explorer in the Far West, introduced this and many other trees, and added above a thousand plants to the vocabulary of botanists ; he met with an untimely and traa;ical death in the Sandwich Islands, by accident- ally falling into a cattle trap, in 1833. Since his day the Douglas Pine has been freely introduced throughout the British Isles and other coun- tries. Some magnificent specimens are to be seen in the grounds of the Earl of Stair, near Stranraer, and also in those of Scone Palace '^nd other places, with a height of eighty feet and eight feet in circumfortvce at base, grown from seed sent home by Douglas in 1827. The Abies Doiig- lj,sii is of great value as well as of great beauty. It is prized above all others for shipbuilding, especially masts and spars. The flag of the last International Exhibitiim in London was I'aised upon a pole three hundred and nine feet high, which had been brought from a group of Douglas pines in British Columbia. Many of the annuals now common in your gardens and of the trees and shrubs that are favorites in your grounds in "Merrie England,'' claim the territory you are now passing through as the cradle of their species and owe their introduction to David Douglas. Cedar, aspen, hemlock, ash and other species attain surprisingly large dimensions lil'.ewiso. Many pretty clearings will be seen along the fertile valley of the Eraser, the orchards and gardens in their mid- summer height of bloom. ifi ^^v^'^f-. "Are you going to Victoria ?" may be the inquisitive query, should the tourist enter into conversation with some casual way traveller, " Umph ! well, they are a sleepy lot over there, anyhow. Ther3's no atir in the place." The astonished tourist, thus taken aback, may Murt out something about "beauty," "How"? queries the tormentor; "I think you said 'beauty' — yaas, beauty enough, as fur as that goes, mister, but ' beauty ' haint business, yer know. That there Victoria — ' Sleepy Hollow ' 1 calls it — has ben a building thirty year an' odd, and what is it, eh ? Chinese and Si washes ! (native Indians) there's beauty fur you. So you're going to Victoria, well, I'm dazelled, theer." He shakes his head, turns away with a In^k of withering contf^mpt, mingled with pity ior your perverseness, looks out of the car window muttering something about "town lots," "good investment," "there's millions in it," as he complacently views, with a smile of satisfaction, the stumps and clearings which become more frequent now you are ap- proaching the "fair young Liverpool of the west," as some delight to designate the growing center of "shipping, trade ond commerce, which a few years ago had no existence, except in im^igination, and when the giants of the forest hid beneath their shade the little lumbering hamlets of Granville and Oastown, on the shores of Coal Harbor, where now stands the wonder of the age — the flourishing terminal City of Van- couver. TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 23 brees, and J ; he met ' accident- aglas Pine her coun- [ids of the '^nd other "oi't-vce at bies Dong- above all jf the last ;e hundred >i Douglas on in your (S in your )w passing 111 to David urprisingly a along the their mid- ery, should traveller, Thera's no A SEVENTY-FIVE MILE SAIL THROUGH THE ISLANDS OF FAIRYLAND. may >lurt lentor; " 1 that goes, ! Victoria — n' odd, and jre's beauty led, theer." contempt, car window " "there's sfaction, the ^ou are ap- e delight to ce, which a d when the •ing hamlets where now !ity of Van- There is now no time for delay. Vancouver will be visitnd hereafter. The steamer is panting at tlie wharf, a few yard^ from the terminus, im- patient to be off on the 75-mile voyage, through the countless islands of western fairyland. The tourist lias got his luggage "checked," of course no need to look after it, the company do that tor you — 'ti's even (ju board the steamer before the owner. The obliging "cul'd gen'l'mn" of the sleeper politely helps with the light ''luggage" from the luxurious " Pullman," that has been a home for the past week. The tourist gives a last fond look and wipes away- the thoughtful, aolemr countenance induced by constant coTitact with the mighty handiwork or the Great Creator. Everything looks bright, sparkling and sunny, the white-washed Indian village and the sawmills on the opposite shore of the " Inlet," shine brighter and more dazzling, and the tourist is oa the tip-toe of expectation ; a few steps and he is on board that beautiful floating palace, the • S. S. ISLANDER, titted up with every possible luxurious convenience, every door, window and panel a picture gallery; lighted by electricity, n good, swift sailer, seaworthy and ably commanded. Built by the Elders' of Glasgow, specially for the Canadian Pacitfo Navigition Co. in 1888, this vessel arrived in Victoria in the latter part of that year, after a very quick and successful voyage round "the Horn." American tourist parties often charter the " Islander " during the season for a voyage along the coast of the mainland and around Vancouver and Qneen Charlotte Islands, besides, several advertised trips will be made, at stated periods, to enable all visitors to view the beaucy and enjoy the pleasure of the fairy-like scenery described by His Ei>:cellency the Marquis of Dufferin, K. P., ui the following glowing terms: — "Such a spectacle as its coast line pre- sents is not to be paralelled by any country in the world. Day after day for a wbole week, in a vessel of nearly 2,000 tons, we threaded an intermin- able labyrinth of watery lanes and reaches, that wound endlessly in and out of a net, vork of islands, promontories and peninsulas, for thousands of miles, unruffled by the slightest swell from the adjoining ocean and presenting at every turn an ever-shifting combination of rock, verdure, forest, glacier and snow-capped mountains of unrivalled grandeur and beauty. When it is remembered that this wonderful system of naviga- tion, equally well adapted to the largest line of battle-ship and the frailest canoe, fringes the entire seaboard of the Province, and communi- cates at points sometimes more than a hundred miles from the coast, with ;t multitude of valleys stretching eastward into the interior, while at thQ pp TOURISTS PIC'TOKIAL CUIDE. fi I \li same time it is furnished with innumerable harbors on either hand, one is lost in admiration at, the facilities for inter-communication which are thus provided for the future inhabitants of this wonderful resion." Perhaps the tourist may be in luck Hud have the pleasure of the pre- sence on board of tlie courteous, enterprisins: commodore of the Canadian Pacific Navigation Co.'s squadron. Commodore John Irving, as he paces the deck, feels proud of his " Islander," and as a native islander proud of the Island wither you are bound. The engine turns, and the noble ship moves gently through the placid waters of the " Inlet " — pointing her fi'ow towards the entrance of the first narrows, full steam is put on as the vessel plows her way through English Bay, and passing Point Grey, the Gulf of Georgia is entered, and the scenic beauty of seventy- five miles of coast dawns and opens up to the vision of the expectant tourist. To the west looms up the blue mountains of the Island of Va'i- '^o'Tver, the smoke of steamers, or the white-winged ships plying to and from the oal fields of Nanaimo — the Newcastle of the west. To ♦"he east the low-lying fertile lands of the delta of the Fraser, witfi k j famed Eddystone lighthouse denoting the mouth of the river, backed by the snowy peaks of the Coas' range, shining ;ind gleaming in the warm sum- mer's sun. Entering the Canal de Haro, a labyrinth of islands are encountered, appearing at times to obstruct the passage, but the steamer rounds in and out the rocky, wooded islets, keeping so close to their iron- bound shores that a ship's biscuit may easily be pitehed on the rocks as the vessel, without slackening its headlong speed, passes by. On through cbr.nnels innumerable, with short open stretches of water every now and then, towards the southern entrance to the Archipelago. On the 6th Nov., 1889, at Kcelut Bluff, in the United States terri- tory, half a league north of Plumper's Pass, at the entrance to the Haro Channel, was the scene of what nearly proved to be a disastrous accident to H. M. S. Amphion, one of tliB finest cruisers of the Pacific Squadron, while conveying His Excellency the Governor-General, Lord Stanley of Preston, and the Vic>-Regal party from Victoria to Vancouver. A dense fog prevailed at the time, and Commander Hulton, having confidence in his personal knowledge of these waters, left Victoria without a pilot. On enterin-jf Plumper's Pass speed was reduced from ninety to thirty revolu- tions by the navigating lieutenant on deck, but the indicator failed to record the alteration in the engine-room ; the calmness of the water, and the land being invisable owing to fog, prevented those on deck to notice that speed had not been slacke led as ordered. The dangerous point was hugored too closely, and the gallant ship ran, at full speed, on a sui.ken reef in an oblique direction, ripping and tearing a large rent in her side through the double sheathing below the arniair belt. The pumps were set to work, the collision mattress hauled over the leak, and other pre- cautions taken which managed to keep the invading waters under. All in I TOURISTS PICTORIAL OlIDE. 25 speed was put on so as to gain the shelter of Esquimalt Harbor as soon as possible. On the arrival there, with the assistance '>f the other war ships in harbor and outside help, the Amphion was with difficulty kept afloat till she was berthed in the dry-dock, twenty-six hours from the time she struck. The discipline and promptitude displayed by the officers and crew during these trying moments were highly commended by His Excel- lency and party. A subsequent courtmartial, however, reprimanded the gallant commander, and Navigatiug Lieutenant Barrett, the latter, in addition, losing one year's seniority. Coasting along the picturesque eastern shores of Vancouver Island, Saanich Arm is passed. To the east, as Point Cadboro is approached, will be seen the low-lyiug Island of San Juan, at one time a causje of grave dispute, owing to the rival clain s of Great Britain and the United States. The island had been farmed from "away back " by the Hudson's Bay Co., and in all probability might have been yet, only f(»r a dispute which arose between a settler and the Company about the ownership of a pig. A joint occupation was maintained by the rivals till the cause was decided by the late Emperor William of Germany in 1870, giving the sovereignty to the United States. A pig lost to the Empire the fertile Island of San Juan, and the stupidity of the salmon in the Culumbia River, in not deigning to notice the tempting bait of an artificial fly oflfered by the Admiral on the station here in '45, lost the large territory extending north from the 4()th parallel, proving the truth of the old adage that " Small beginnings result in great endings." To the south-west loom up the extended range of the Olympians, forming the northern shore of the State of Washington, whose snowy tresses stream down their d-^ep, dark blue sides, which rise like a wall from the shores of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, reflecting all the depths and tones of shade and color which delight the artist in the declining rays of the glorious summer's sun, now rapidly sinking to rest on the bosom of the great ocean beyond the blue hills of Sooke, which form the western bt)undary of the horizon. Glancing upward to the left, overtopping the low-lyingr clouds of the receding shore line, will be observed " M(mnt Baker," 11,000 above —the highest peak of the. coast range — looking down, as it were, on the deck, its snowy face reflecting inroseat hues the golden rays of the retreating orb of day. Where the long walls of the Olympians stretch out into low hills, seedling almost to touch the opposite sh re, denotes the entrance to Pu:,'et S und, United States territory. There many flourishing cities and towns — centres of industrial and commercial activity — have sprung up during the past ten yiirs, and where the " boom" of the western real estate man re-echoes along the shores of every headland, nook and pool, crock iind gully of that inland water stretch, and by whose unremitting I « tourists' pictorial fJUIDE. I I * ■f enterprise its seven hundred miles of indented coast has been covered with one continuous succession of cities, towns and vilhiijes — on paper. The settlements on Vancouver Island appear more frequent. Farm steadings and residences peep out from amidst leafy bowers — green fields and lowing cattle chewing the cud ot cimtentment after the evenmg meal, give rural beauty and auiniati(»n to the scene. Along the coast, passing the picturesque Telegraph Bvy, Cadboro Bay and Foul B ly — rivalli g each other in sylvan grandeur, the extensive open stretch of famed Beacf)n Hill comes into view. Crowds of Victoria's citizens are enjoying the h( alth giving breeze along the grassy slopes, complacently contemplating the glorious scene before them; watching the course of the Islander as she disturbs the unruffled waters and sweeps round to the entrance to the Harbor. On the elevation behind Beacon Hill, over- t^»pping the wooded slopes beneath, where the tall flagstaff surmounts the white battlements, is Castle C;irey, the oflicial seat of the Lieutenant- Governor of the Province, and the dark gray pinnacles of the palatial Dunimuir residence rear their heads far above other less pretentious abodes of Victoria's merchant princes scattered along the embowered slopes of intei /ening landscapes. From the lighthouse at the entrance to the harbor, beyond the jut- ting head land to the left, will ba observed the entrance to Esquimalt Harbor — the Gibraltar oi the Pacific. The magnificent stretch of water along the sheltered shore line «>f the Sooke Hills forms the Royal Roads, where almost the navy of the Empire could safely ride at anchor. These hills terminate in the Rice Rocks to the south-west, where the light- hons(i now begins to signal 'f> the mariners the entrance to the straits from the vast Pacific. Rounding the buoy nt the (luter wharf, the *'l8lander" enters the rocky portals of Victoria's compact though small harlx»r and the fair Queen of the woscern Adriatic, rising gently from the rock-bound shores, is seen reposing smili-glv amidst unbrageous bowers <>i trees, honey-suckle and roses. The shades of evening are deepening as the "Islander" reaches the wharf. "Mount Df»uglas," like an immense Redan, the fair city's s ntinel to the north, whose fir clad sides and rock brown battlements reflect in richly gorgeous colors the parting rays. Air, earth and ocean smile as the sua broadens by degress, and now, as if weary, dips his orb, half immersed, and then a g(dden curve, gives one bright glance and totally disappears, the prospect more charniin'jT than ever in the golden halo as the creeping shadows of the Socjk Hills gradually unfold the curtain of night. If I,'; t TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. THE ISLAND OP VANCOUVER. 27 PART II. Glancins: at the mnp and judging from the countless islands en- countered during the recent voyage the tourist may perhaps agree with Ihe theory that in distant ages the Island of Vanc(»uver was, as it were, rent and torn by some great convulsion of nature from the continenti.il Coast range of mountains of which at one time it formed a part. It is conjectured that in early ages owing to some violent disruption that first the southern portion was torn from the continent — that the Pacific tide waters and the current which swirls past the rock-bound coast forced the waters by way of the Straits of Fuca on the south and Queen Charlotte's Sound on the noith eventually cutting a passage through the rocky ligature, which for subsequent ages held con- nection with the parent mainlatid at Seymour Narrows, where at present the waters rush at ebb and flow with considerable rapidity through the rocky passages Geologists, however, attribute the severance to an immense glacier which occupied the whole of the waters from Queen Charlotte's Sound to the Straits of Fuca. Merely separated at its northern extremity from the adjacent maudand by the narrow channel of Discovery Passage. This island is 2(>0 miles long from Cadboro Point on the sou'h-east to Cape Scott on the north- west, and 80 miles wide, in the extreme, from Chatham Peak on the east to Eastevan Point on the west. . Th^ surface of the island is ruL'gcd and mountaineous, A range of mountains run down its crutr'' and the exten- sive coast line is protected against the surrounding water by an almost continuous range whose peaks attfiin an altitude of from 2,000 to 4,000 feet, while the highest of those of the centre ranges pierce the clouds at 7,000 feet above sea level. The innumerable adjacent wooded islands intervening b.^twf-en Vancouver Island and tht^ mainland are in extent from a mere solitary rock to those containing an area from 100 to 150 Square miles. Volcanic convulsions are still frequent in these latitud- s. A slight shock of earthquake from s. to >. was felt at Victoria at 5:15 p.m., 1st February, 1890. Active volcanos existed within present mem- ory on Qu^ en Charlotte's Islands —and extinct craters and lava beds are numerous along th« coast of the northern mainland. Alaska boasts of 8 Vv^ral active volcanos at pre-ent, gradually dying out, breaking out ifresh as th • line of disturbance receeds toward the pole. , Vancouver Island affords the only safe and practiable harb(trs for vessels of depp draught alo^ig the western coast of North America on the immediate shores of the Pacific Ocean north of San Francisco. Aleng the western coast of the island from Port San Juan, at the entrance of the Straits of Fuca, to Cape Scoot, a distance of over 200 m 28 TOUPvISTS Plf'TORTAL GUIDE. \i¥ miles, a series <)f inlets, sount^s, coves, harbors and bays, scattered at from t n to fifteen miles apart, indent the coast; some of whose arms and reach' s almost penetrate through the island to the waters on the east, affording means of internal navij/ation in various directions. The hills and mountain sides are clothed m dense masses of forfst, mainly of the renowned Douglas pine, fir and cedar from which lumber of high commercial value is manufactured. The woods and forests are in- habited with many beasts of prey — pantliers, bears, wolves, etc., with deer, grouse, pheasants, wild fowl and other game in profusion. Silvery fairy lakes abound, and the crystal streams which team down innumerable gorges, ravines and valleys are stocked with the choicest of the tiney tribe, trout and salmon predominating. The numerous valleys, rich in aluvial deposits when cleared of tlie forest growth, aided by a sup rb climate produces a hundredfold and are particularly adapted for fruit growing. The foreit glados are rich ni innumerable wild flowers— the eye at every turn 'mbraces scenes of unsurpassable, romantic beauty scattered broad- cast in all the negligence of a bountiful nature constituting Van- couver Island the paradise <>f the sportsman, the tourist, artist, botanist and the lover of nature. Gold, coal, iron, marble, onilding st(me and timber abound throughout in abundance. The surrounding seas swarm with food fish — turbot, salmon, herring, whitebait, cod (not the true cod), sardines, shrimps, prawns, crabs, oysters (not of the "native" flavor though), clams, etc., etc., etc. Fur and hair seals abound along the coasts. AH of which offer to capital and industrial enterprise fields ff»r investments unequalled and unexcelled. Sir Chas. Dilke said that, as the British Isles are to Europe, so is Vancouver Island to America. Therefore, the tourist will find in com- parison a St. George Channel and North Sen in the Straits of Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia, with Esquimalt as their Deptford and in geographi- cal inancial, commercial and industrial point of view an embryo London ^nus the fog and unhealthy east wind, in the mistress of this Western B/n..,-.7n — ' ■ THE CITY OF VICTORIA— AND WHICH ALSO AS A TOURIST RESORT, owing to its equable, invigorating climate and the matchless attracticms of scienic beauty of its immediate surroundings is the most enjoyable on the continent of America. Hitherto but little known it is only lately that the fame of its beauty and climate are being noised abroad, receiving the highest encominunes from every visitor. The shady groves, sylvan slades, grassy parks and pastoral landscapes whose ever green swards are bedecked with exquisite natural flowers; the distant snow peaks of dark blue mountains pierc- ing the sky; the dreamy sea boru huze veiling countless verdant isles TOURISTS PICTORIAL OLIDB. 20 ittered at ) arms and the east, 3 of f orf st, ich lumber •ests are in- etc., with n. Silvery inunierable tiney tribe, h in aluvial I rb climate lit growing. Bye at every ber. d broad- uting Van- ist, botanist y stone and \eas swarm lot the true he "native" .bound along erprise fields Europe, so is find in com- of Fuca and in geographi- bryo London this Western iss attractions enjoyable on ; of its beauty encominunes say parks and vi'th exquisite untains pierc- verdant isles whose shadows are reflected \\\ the surrounding glassy sea; meandering brooks and bounding cascades; the embrageous^ bowers beneath giant oaks hung with garlands of silvery pendent lichen; here, and nowhere else, will the tourist find scenery more charming, varied a' d extensive. The splendid drives and shady walks ccjnstructed through the laybrinths of orchards and gardens overflowing with rich harvests of fruit and flowers, where the rose and honeysuckle bloom ahnost continuously — the sceinic grandeur of Beacon Hill boasting of the most magniflcent and extensive marineandmountaio vie in existence— said by connoisseurs to excel the Riviera — combines in leaving nothhig else to be desired by the pleasure seeker or the lovir of nvture. According to the explorer, David Douglas, the native Indian tribes of this coast held sacred the groves of the stately Piiius Lambert Imia— which is scarcely less famous than the i)ine tree called by his name. The Druids of old had their sacred groves, so also had the ancient eastern heathens. In all ages trees have been worshiped more or less. '; Lakes and mountains, however glorious for a time, in time weary. Sylvan scenery never palls. ' So wrote Lord Biiacontield. The sylvan scenery .Hround Victoria, intersected by the best roads in America, never palls, and to quote the noble passage from Cowper: "Meditation here Maj' tliink down houra tomomcl-s. Here the heart May give a useful lesson to the head; And Jearning wiser grow wilhoul its books." Victoria possesses easy access to all points of interest by steam boat and rail and is convenient to celebrated hunting and Ashing grounds; as the oldest and most densely settled part ff the Province, it is enjoyable in every feature, with clean, comfortable hotels at all places of resort and on the leading roads ; where rural life in the midst of all the pomp of savage grandeur, deer hunting, trout and salmon Ashing, wild duck, grouse and pheasant shooting may be enjoyed by the tourist ""ithout the inconvenience of surrendering the luxuries of a city hotel, or the com- forts and refinements of civilization. Hotel accommodations especially suited for tourists aj , being rapidly extended. The Canadian Western Hotel on Government stieet, now in course of construction, aff'ording a magnificent view of the harbor, witn all the latest improvements, will, when completed, leave nothing wanting in the way of city hotel accom- modation. In the course of a few years Victoria will become the resort of the period for the pleasure seeker, the 1 'Ver of nature, the artist and the invalide. The few British tourists who have visited the ctmntry are loud in their praise. Of the recent British visitors, Professor Bleckie, of Edinboro' University, who has seen many lauds, in writing to one of the leading periodicals, aaid.: m tourists' pictorial OUIDH. "1 hfive come to the deliberate conclusion that no one knows the grandeur of the British Empire who has not traversed British C(jlumbia; and if I desired to chani^e my abode and dwell where the breath of winter is unknown I should certainly select the city of Victoria, the most attractive spot I have seen, all things considered, since I landed on this continent. Victoria is cooled by th ■: sea breeze and brightened by the Pacitic waters that come rolling into many a bay and round many an inlet and headland at the foot of wooded hills of every picturesque form and seems to answer better to that sea loving task which is natural to our islanders." Stavely Hill, Esq., Q, C, M. P., Oxley Manor, Staflfordshire, accompanied by Mrs. liill, visited Victoria in the latter part of October, 1889, said: "We are more than astonished at the magnitude and grandeur of the country, being to a certain extent prepared we did not expect to wit- ness in the magnificent scenery around Vkj'^oria, the extent of the mou' tain and sea view at Beacon Hill, the romantic beauty of "the Gorge" and other scenes ; the flowers blooming at this time of the year, and the delightful climate surpassing anything we have seen or ex- perienced elsewhere. It is not the beauty aione but the great extent and variety which enchants us. It must be perfectly delightful in summer time, and when these attractions become more generally known at home we feel confident that the place will be over run with visitors." American tourists from all parts of the States, ever alive to the necessity of seeking new scenes of adventure outside the conventional trip tc Europe, throng to Victoria in hundreds every season. Each suc- ceeding seas n exhibiting a volumous increase in the stream of sight- seers. Alaska, with its glaciers and volcanoes, alive and extinct, are attractions unique of their class, is becoming very popular. A line of steamers ply from San Francisco on this route, which call at Victeria as one of the chief attractions in the programme. Many of these tourists are so enraptured with the beauty and delightful climate that they remain over for considerable time, one all glad indeed for so charming a break in the voyage to Alaska. A FEW HINTS. On landing the tourist intimating his hotel, secures a cab, or as it is called hero " a hack " — a kind of overgrown hermaphrodite vehicle, be- tween a London " growler " and a provincial " fly " — the fare " four bits. " So that the tourist won't be bit, a timely hint will be of service. A " bit " is the parlance of the Pacific Slope, is the initial medium of exchange in Victoria, representing the sum of 12J cents or 6d. sterling — that is the TOURISTS PICTORIAL (iUIDt!. 31 " long bit;" the " short bit" is looked upon as a miserly ten cents, or Hd sterling, and t)nly used by Canadians. Now the old-time British Ciduni- bians do not consider themselves ' Canadians ' in any sense of the term — a Provincial Act of Parliament in that case made and pmvided, s.iys so. The tive-cent silver currency is looked upon with disdain, and reluct- antly accepted, while common cupi^er possesses no intrinsic value what- ever, except as curiosity for collections of rare coins. Recollect that two " bits " represent 25 cents, or one shilling sterling; three "bits" 40 cents, or Is. 8d. ; four " bits " 50 cents, or 2 s. ; six " bits " 75 cents, or 3s. Some of the hotels ccmvey passengers from the boat free -a bus from the ' Clarence ' attends. Bef(»re leaving the landing, if the " checks " for the baggage are given to the exj)re8sman in waiting, or to the clerk at the hotel, on arrival there, the luggage will be carefully looked after, and a charge of two '• bits " made for each piece. A QUIET TALK ON VARIOUS SUBJEflS. While enjoying the comforts and reposes (*f the hotel, free from the incessant rattle of the railway train, to which the tourist has been accus- tomed f(»r the past week or so, and the delightful summer's evening, 'twixt the lights. Opportunity offers to say a few words altout the city of Victoria -its history, trade, commerce and manufacturing industries. Victoria, besides being the Capital City of British Columbia, and the seat of Government, is also the tinaucial and commercial centre of the province, nnd contains a population of 2(5,000 inhabitants, 4,000 of which are natives of the " Flowery Land," who are the hewers of wood and drawers of water to the other twenty odd thousand. These Chinese be- sides performing all the duties " Sairy Jane " and '''Arry," manufacture opinm, smoke it, gamble Sunday and holiday, nighi, noon and morning; peddle green grocery, have little or no regard for the Sabbath or the sanitary laws of our civilization, and set other excellent examples of the morality of an older civilization to the " Ghins " or " foieign devils," as they style their fellow-citizens of Victoria. They import all their kind, clothing and necessaries from China, and send bac); in return all their earnings and money — e\en their bones, leaving nothing behind, like the Manitoba grasshopper, but the foetid effluvia of their cctntaminating in- fluence. Four hundred A'orking men and women of our own race and blood, would represet a white population of at least 10,000 souls. And were such the case, there would be a little more stir and bustle observable on a tine summer's night than is just now apparent. "John" lives by himself, keeps to himself, does not bother anyone and no one bothers him. . . . . HISTORY. In 1844 the Hudson's Bay Company selected the present site of Vic- toria for the establishment of their he idquarter trading post on the Pacific Coaat, naming the harbor and fort VioiORii. in honor of Her Majesty the se Tourists' pictorial oinnii. Queen. The site was well chosen, being in every respect suitable for the purpose of h large trading post, with a well shelterc'd anchorage for the light craft of the company, and the adjacent Royal Roads and Eaquimalt Harbor for their larger vessels, in which their tirst ship direct from London to this port anchored in 1845. Farms were cleared and herds of cattle introduced, and Victoria became the great depot for the whaling fleet of the northern waters of the Pacific. The whaling industry declin- ing in 1849 was succeeded by that extensive fur trade, for which it is at present notable. In that year was established the Drown Colony of Vancouver Island, The first Governor arrived at Victoria on the 10th March, 1850. Not relishing the roughr.ess of bush life — there was no Castle Carey then- or perhaps owing to the interference of the Hudson's Bay Co.'s chief official, Governor Blanchard resigned the following April, and was succeeded by Chief Factor (afterwards Sir James) Douglas, Hudson's Bay Co. who retained office till his resignation in 1859. Pro- gress was slow, owing, it is said, to the monopoly of lands a'ld govern- ment in the hands of the Hudson's Bay C •, which ceased in 1856. Gold was discovered in 1858, or more properly speaki-ig, became known to the world outside the officials and servants of the Company, who, for reasons easily understood, kept the knowledge to themselves, as they did the explorations of Mackenzie and Lieuc. Hearne in the northern part of Rupert's Land, which were first made known to the world of geographi- cal science by the great Napoleon. When the French captured Fort York in 1810 the archives were taken to Paris, and the journals of those two celebrated explorers were, by the Emperor's order, forwarded to the Royal Geographical Society, London, after having lain mouldering in the office of the Company at Fort Yale for nearly liilf a century! In 1858 Courts of Justice wore established, with police and other officials to carry on the government of the country. The inflax of miners, with the usual accompaniment of sharks, gamblers and other disreputable followers, caused the young city to undergo the ordeal of its first and only "•boom." Real estate rose rapidly to almost fabulous prices, with the usual result in a few months afterwards. Incorporated as a city in 18B2, from which time Victoria's growth in wealth and ccmimercial importance, although slow, has been as solid as the rocks on which it is built. For years Victoria was the Hamburgh of the Pacific, b ing the only free port on the eastern shores of that ocean. A large profitable trade was carried on with the neighboring Republic during the M^ar of secession from 'Gl to '66. British goods imported to Victoria found a ready market and an easy means for escaping the high tariff — there being nothing in fact to check it. These were the good old days before confederation. Victorii boasts of a very efficient system of water supply C( nstructed and owned by the Corporation, and presents about half a niillon dollars oufcltty. Thase works prove to be a very profitable source of revenue to TOURISTS PICTORIAL OUIDR. 33 or the or tho uinialt t from jrda "f haling decliu- it is at my of 10th (vas no udson's t April, iouglas, . Pi-o- govern- . Gold ri to the reasons ' did the part of ographi- ed Fort of those id to the ig in the in 1858 1 to carry the usual oUowers, "■boom." ,a.l result Ki2, from portance, lilt. For free port as carried om '61 to Let and an n fact to instructed Ion dollars eveuue to tho city. It is lighted by electricity when the moon refuses to perform that service. A system of electric tramways traverse the leading thoroughfares and roads in the vicinity, and is bf^in-^' rapidly oxtended in all dirc'i-.tions. I he streets, running at right angles, aio laid (»tf in broad, roomy thoroughfares, especi'vlly in tho eastern, northern and the outly- ing districts. They aie maintaiii d in a supi'rior manner, being well macadamizcid an constantly subjected tn the i)rocos3 of steam-rolling, and althou.rh a little dusty at times, are always to be found clean and freo from unsightly obstructions. Lines of shade tree.s, now becoming preva- !■ nt, afford delicious shade along the well-kept sidewalks, while the many front guldens, lawns and orchards along the streets in the residential htcalities — for nearly every cottage, however humble, has its garden — overflowing with the wealth of roses, honeysuckles, woodbine and flowers with the heavily laden fruit trees in unsurpassable luxuriance, impart to the appearance of the city at all seasons and indiscribable charm. Victoria cannot as yet boast of any public buildings of notable architectural grandeur; however, the pn^babilites are that a few years hence will see municipal and provincial buildings erected, which for uiasrniHcenco, grandeur and beauty of design will be in keeping with the importance and natural scenic beauty of the rising mistress of the Pacific. The city is governed by a Mayor and Board of Aldermen, maintains an efhcient police force and parrially paid tire department, is provided with a free library and reading rooms, and scIkjoIs fnr high class inter- mediate education. Charitable i>istitutions are numerous and well supported and consists of: — The Royal Jubilee Hospital, erected at a cost of $50,000, in commemoration of Her Majesty's Jubilee. St. Joseph's Hospital (in connection with the Convent of St. Ann), French Hospital, Protestant Orphans' Home, Chinese Girls' Home, iVJarine Hos- pital, a Pioneer Society, Benevolent Society, and a few other minor Societies, all of which indicate a large distribution of the " milk of human kindness " amongst the inhabitants. Tha pre.?3 is represented bp two daily newspanera. The Co/tonis/ (Gov- ernment organ) morning paper and the Mveuing Times (Opposition,) both well and ably conducted. Excellent weekly editions of each are issued con- taining all the news of the week. As elsewhere, they are zealous in advocating the cause of their respective parties with all the force and vehemence of partizan zeal, and are very persistent in hunting up items of news calculated to interest their readers. The City of Victoria occupies a site unrivalled for sanitary purposes. A gentle slope from the harbor to the hills forming its northern and eastern boundaries, presents excellent facility for natural or arterial drainage. A comprehensive system of sewers, on the latest modern 34 TOURISTS* PICTORIAL GUIDE. plans, are now in course of construction at an estimated cost of $700,000 which will, when executed, render Victoria, at present the most healthy city in the Dominion of Canada, a model in a sanitary respect and the most healthy city in the world. There are many calls on the Munical Government involving the ex- penditure of a large amount of money. The credit of the city stands high in the money market of the world, and the necessary funds are easily obtainable at low rates of interest. The people are becoming alive to the necessities of the hour and evince a desire to keep pace with the age, so as to make their city, not only attractive as a tourist resort, but also to maintain that commercial supremacy eecured to it by an unrivalled geographical position, as the gate to the trade and commerce of the vast ocean between the two hemispheres, the tinger-post of which points out the commercial route to India, Australasia, China, Japan and the isles of the sea. Insular isolation from contact with the outside world heretofore bred exclusiveness and shyness of strangers from without, and a conservatism of ideas. The opening of the Canadian Pacitic Railway broke down the barrier and changed the aspect of affairs. The inhabitants are hospit- able and courteous to strangers, independent without rudeness, and gen- erally treat outside matters indiferently, proud of the beautiful situation and attractions of their city and its environs, especially the famed Beacon Hill Park. Taking ihe aflfairs of th-? world in a happy-go-lucky kind of style, they are not so "sleepy" as genetaiiv described by in- terant scribblers whose venal writings attempt to de -ry the prospects present and future of Victoria. The enterprise &< d Jo'Iars of the citizens nave helped to build up other towns and ambition" rivals feeling con- tented in the vast superiority in every point of view of their Island City against all competitois. The early closing hours and Saturday half-holiday are observed by nearly all trades and businesses, and the slightest excuse for a general holiday eagerly seized. The Queen's birthday (a regular carnival of two days). Dominion Day (Ist July), and Prince of Wales' birthday are kept in a right royal manner. Out door exercise and recreations are largely indulged in— boating up the "Arm," athletic games at Beacon Elill being the the favorite. The people are orderly and law-abiding to a remark- able degree; rowdyism and crime are conspicuous by their absence. There are no poor or indigent, and everyone appears well clothed and fed. See the crowd on a Saturday afternoon or the children at school, then form an opinion and judge accordingly. PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. The Victoria Theatre adjoining the Driard Hot«l, aflFords a seating capacity for about eight hundred people, is tastefully and ar- aochd QiiiesI incre/ tbroul »e«fc tourists' pictorial OUIDR. 36 000 Ithy the ) ex- lands 1 are alive hthe t, but vailed 3 vaat its oui sles ol re bred cvatisni wn the hoapit- ,nd gen- ituation ,B famed go-lucky d by in- )rospect8 citizens ing con- md City srved by a general -al oi two are kept e largely [lill being remark - ice. There fed. See ihen form affords a |ly and at- e tistically fitted up, has three tiers of stage boxes, a balcony 'or dresa circle and pit, with the usual throne of " the gods," The drop and set scenes are acknowledged works of art. It is well lighted and ventilated and recently great improvements were made for the prevention and ex- tinguishing of tires. The management uc'vertise that none but superior dramatic or operatic troupes will occupy the boards of *' the Victoria," and that constant performances will be maintained during the tourist season. Box office at VVaitt's Music Store, Government Street. Prices vary according to excellence of t^. ape. Price of admission : Boxes from $ to $ ; Balcony and Pit, $1,00 to $1.50 ; Gallery 26 and 50 cents. Doors open at 7.30 ; performance commences at 8 o'clock. Matinee at 2 o'clock. THE PHILHARMONIC HALL Fort Street, where generally are given amateur performances, concerts, etc., in aid of church and charitable objects, is a comfortable hall. There is no balcony or gallery. Price of admission : Front seats, $1.00 ; back seats, 50 cents ; or more commonly 50 cents and 25 cents. Next door to the Philharmonic, the Salvation Army advertise to deal out " Blood and Fire," and sound the loud timbrel every evening at 8 o'clock. Charge of admission, optional. TRADE AND COMMERCE. Victoria besides being the financial centre and the great wholesale emporium for supplies, is also the chief shipping port for sailing craft and other vessels, plying to British or other foreign ports. Here are centered the head offices of all the leading industries of the country, and all or nearly all, exports, excepting lumber, iron ore and coal, are shipped from the Port of Victoria, viz : Gold in bars, dust and ores ; canned salmon, fur seals — a large growing industry, and other peltb, hides, fish oils, etc. The duty levied on imports entered for consumption, in the aggregate to a million dollars annually for the province, nino- tenths ot which are collected at this port. The value of exports exceeds th.-\t of all other ports combined, except that of the coal shipping port of Nanaimo. Both imports and exports have increased about fifty per cent, in the last four years. According to official returns the income and property assessment valuation exceed that of Vancouver city sevenfold ! Commercial failures are the exception, not the rule. Such indisputable facts, in themselves, speak louder than words, as to the commercial ac- tivity and supremacy. The harbor not being very extensive, shipping of large tonnage anchor in the Royal Roads, and discharge cargo at Esquimalt, three miles distant. The amount of tonnage is annually increasing, and will increase far beyond most sanguine expectations, when Victoria secures through continuous railway communication with the Mainland to the «edt and south. For this desirable purpose the TOURISTS' PIvTTORIAL GUIDE. III I CAKADIAN WESTERN RAILWAY CO. received a charter in 1889, from the Provincial Legislature. It is proposed to extend the existing trunk line of Island railway from 't<; northe-n terminus to Fort Rupert, Vancouver Island, thence by a series of island stepping stones across Seymour Narrows to Bute Inlet on the Mainland— the length of the greatest span will not exceed 1,200 feet — thence through the fertile plains of Chilcotin, touchin^^ near the Cariboo district, crossing the Rocky Mountains by way of the Y How Head pass on to the western plains, thence by the valley of the Saskatchewan, following the course originally laid out for the Cmiadian Pacific Railway, opening up a 8uperi(»r country suitable for successful settlement, possessing the three most essential qualifications in due pro- portion, viz: fertile land, wood and water. Connection with the main- land to the south will be secured by an rj^^easion of the Island Railway from Fsouiaalt a short distance south-v-estward to Beecher Bay, and thenct, by railway ferry, across the Straits of Juan de Fuca on the opposite shores in the State of Washington to Crescent Bay, a distance of fifteen miles, making connection there with the railway system of the United States. This important hue of railway has received large co - ressions of lands alnng the projected route in British Columbia, from the Provincial Legislature and other aid towards the construction of the work, the preliminaries of which are being energetically pushed forward. A few years will jee the completion of this desirable undertaking. The success of the Canadian Pacific Railway no doubt induced capitalists to come forward unhesitatingly to carry out the project. Victoria will then make one of those modern bounds towa-ds metropolitian gre.vtnes.s dectined for it by an unrivalled, commanding geographical position as the emporium for trade and commerce of the r sing Britain of the west. A glance at the map demonstrates the indisputable fact which accords to Victoria as the only possible key, either in a commercial or stragetic point of view, to the extensiv^e shores of the Pacific MeJiterenean, and the nearest possible port to the immediate shores of tlie Pacific Ocean north of San Francisco, a distance of 700 miles. Thus with an assured supremacy there is nothing to retard its material advance towards wealth and prosperity. Rar^ing at present as the fifth port in the Dominioii, with the advent of tne Canadia i Western Ri,ilway— Victoria will head the list of not only Canada but also many «>£ die ports of the Weste n world as the gateway to the vast trade of the Orient. The little city if to-day will in the next decide expand into a metropolis of two hundrk 1 thousand inhar.itants — the centre of trade, commerce and industry « f the Pacific shores of America. And why not ? The Island of Vancr)uver alone possessea the resources necesoary — in the inexhaustablo coal fieldf. known to underlie the whole length and breadth of its rugged b'jrface; the hills and mouu- *ur of paill tinif irnpj 8ett nblt and I crea C;i{);J TOURISTS PICTORIAL OUIDK. 3r ure. [way d by ^nlet ,200 r the How the essful d pro- main- \il\vay ^, and m the istaiice of the ire CO - T>m thcs of the nrward. . The ilists to rill then 'e;vtne3s iition as he west. cords to itic point and thi'- ill) nortli assured 13 wealth loininioii, 111 head SVeste u ;le city if huudr^ 1 dustry < f lessea the underhe ud mouu- w tains of rich ircn ore contained within its area; the wealth of fish swarm- ing the surrounding seas are sufficient to make Victoria a Glasgow or a Liverpool. MANUFACTURING INDU.STRIES. The manufacturing industries at present estr Wished include the nucleus of th<»se great works that have built up the wealth, power and dominion of the British Empire, vik.: iron and shipbuilding. The Albion Iron Works — models of their kind, bids fair to quickly assume unex- pected proportions, are ever increasing and fast growing out of swadling clothes. Cimtinually introducing modern mechanical appliances these works turnout unexceptional engines, machinery and castings, especially marine engines, that would be no discredit to the gigantic works of the old land. The demand lately for schooners suitable for the fast growing industry of fur seal hunting, and deep sea tishing, monster tug boats, etc., forced the ship yatds to extend ^heir power of production. The ways in these yards are seldom, if ever, empty. There are large tanneries; several boot and shoe factories, with every modern labor saving appliances; large furniture factories; printing and lithographing establishments. The color printing and lithographing executed by the Cohmist Printing Co., are triumphs of the typographical art, especially the beautiful and artistic labels that adorn the delicious canned salmon of British Columbia, and which are distributed all over the globe. Book binderies, typ3 foundries, electroplating, biscuit making, cigar, clothing and several other thriving uumufaotories and industries, prospering and continually increasing their power of production to meet the fast grow- ing demand, "W evidences of prosperity. Ten Chinese opium factories turn out the greater part of the manufactured article used in the neigh- boring Reiublic, and although ne'tlier the Canadian or United States customs returns mny not exhib'l, a full account of the amount of opium exported from Victoria it, however, reaches there somehow by the "underground railway" and other channels without paying the high duty of ten dollars per pound levied on it by the United States Revenue De- pavtment. Fortunes have been made in this business, connived at for a tnn3 by some customs officers on tho other side. The crude article is imported from the Orient an 1 manufactured here into the black paste of f^oninierce. A large rice mill -importing the rice from the Straits Settleir ^nts — by a secret pr(jcess, turns out the article in ail forms suit- able f(.r competion, a large quantity of which is consumed by the Chinese and is, it is said, the only mill of the kind in Canada. The output is in- creasing and the company are about extending their works to a greater capacity. . A sugar refinery, flour mill, paper mill and a large saw mill are being erected, which have been bonused by the city to the amount of $85,000. These additional industries will afford employment to about If'' ■ H- K?'" SB TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 500 hands. According to the terms <^f the bonus none but white labor must be employed, the coolie element being rigoursly excluded. The several articles turned out by the manufacturing industries of Victoria compare favorably with the products of more pretentious estab- lishments elsewhere, affording constant and lucreative employment to about one thousand hands (when the new industries are in running order 1,500 hands will be employed). Unfortunately, so as to compete with the cheap labor of the east, recourse has lo be made to Chinese labor, especially in the lighter articles, as boots » nd clothing. This coolie labor is, however, discouraged wherever possible, A good deal can be said on this grave question, one that is forcing itself on the attentiim of the Federal and Imperial Governments regarding the unrestricted admission of these vampire Mongolian hordes, who absorb the vitality of the cnuntrv. Nowhere are the baneful evils of this pernicious system more apparently visible on all sides to the casual observer than in this, the l»eautifui, prosperous city of Victoria. To this, and this alone, must be attributed "the quiet,"' "sleepy," "(dd madish" terms sarcastically applied and given to the world by writers of distinction regarding the outside street appearance of this city. Quiot reigns abroad this glorious summer night, broken only by the strains of the "Queen City" band performing in the adjacent street, or the noisy, discordant screams of the Saltation Army, marching through "blood and fire" "on to glory," followed by a few boys, beneath your windows. No midnight brawls, or unseemely disturbances breaks the stillness or disturbs the well earned repose of thu tourist enjoying his first night's rest in quiet, peaceful Victoria. BEACON HILL PARK. This famous natural park, one of Victorias chief attractions, is situ- tuated to the south-east of the city, along the shores of the Straits of Fuca, in extent about ninety-two acres and is as yet unenclosed. Bea- con Hill Park is onev«if not the finest public places of resort in America — the theme of praise of all visitors, and proudly boasts as aflbrding the most superb and extensive and varied marine view in existance. A. short ride on the electric tramway from Government street across James P yv bridge, passing en route, to the right the Provincial Governuieni build ings, by many pretentious private residences of this aristocratic loc-^Ut} — ^the Belgravia of Victoria, surrounded by their well-kept lawuH. gardens and orchards, the rose and honeysuckle ever prevalent, enclosed by neat trim hedge rows of hawthorn and holly,with laybrintlis of aspen shade trees forming a suitable prelude to one of nature's grandest scenes. . • ■ -- - TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. m Eibor es of stab- nt to jrder with abor, labor ,id on :>f the tission ,f the I more .8, the ustbe iticaliy ing the rlorious }" band 8 of the glory," iwls, or earned peaceful 18 situ- itraits of id. Bea- Atnerica rdina the A. short avnes P^v n'i. b'lild- \oop\it> it laWis. )revaleiit:i brinths of grandest Alighting from ^he cars beneath the umbrageous multitude of leaves which holds the shrde from the fierce rays of the summer's sun, the vista opens on {jreen a'^eys, forest walks, bowers and covats, where scarcely a ray of sunlight falls on the lengthened sylvan gloon . Fountains toss and play, falling in ever changing prismatic showers, ripling the ornamental winter beneath were disport the golden species of the finny tribe. In the • eM glades the children play and the mature lounge indolently on the • ' seats around all enjoying the delightful shade and the fresh sea Df aeze beneath the giants of the primeval forest, whose pristine beauty is heightened by contact with civilization. To the south, through the forest op ning, streams, instantaneously striking the eye in rapid radience, the sheen of the silvery waters of the Straits and the illumined snow- tops of the Olympian range beyond. Out intn the open from the shade of the cool retreat stretches the green sward rismg till the top of the Beacon Hill is reached, then descending to the placid waters tha kiss the banks along the shore. The bursting prospect spreads immense around as the height is gained. Mountain, sea and forest, wood and dale, the adjoining city softly enjoining its siesta embossemed in surrounding trees, the straits dotted over with the white-winged craft of pleasure, the heavily laden b-trk or *^he puffing, panting steamer, the uncurling waters diffused in a glassy ' -psth to the opposite shores, '.vhere the broken landscape of the foresh scends by degrees, roughens into hills, over which the snowy r.; k ' t'le Olympian mountains appear like clouds skirting th« olue li v.'. K he Sooke Hills to the right, clothed in dense forest, lesseniixg ' titude as they 'terminate in the Race Rocks, the exit to tlie immensii i^ he Pacific. To the left rear high above the superna- tant clouds of tho low lying shore line, giving back the rays of tba bright sun, in colors blending in radience like a disc of burnisk.ed silvor, Mount Baker, 11,000 feet above the water, smiles down in all its solemn glory. Skirting the base of the hill carriages whirl pass or leisurely jogg along The crowds of loungers oiling on the green slope basking in the warm «un, the heat c >oled l3y the waft of the gentle breeze ever V.i- ithing fromt he perpetual snows on the southern horizon, drink in a iuV .'■.rr-jght from this overflowing cup of nature. Here the raptured eye can hurry from joy to joy, spread out wide and wild by 'he negligence of nature undisguised by mimic art in a profu- sionof unbounded beauty. The forest darkened sides of snow-capped moun- tains, the calm silvery waters, the vapor arising from the steamers and the factories of the busy city, whose spires and minarets gleam high above the leafy surroundings, hills and dales, woods and lawns blending in colors innumerable, making an all-instructive page in nature's broad album. But who can paint like nature ? Nor can all the gay creation uf imagination boast of hues mixed with-matchless skill as here diaplayed« w 40 TOURISTS I'ICTORIAL GUIDE. I ■» Language fails, nor can words be found tinged with so many colors, touched into perfection by the Great Master's hand, with all the witch- craft of an ensnaring h.veliness ! The extent, magnitud , granu^^ur and variety stands unparalleled and unec ' >1)f)d There may be many Hyde Parka, Regents Parks or Phoenix ' , but there can be only one Beacon Hill, in fashioning which natur*. exceeded her conception of the work, rested satistied and never formed another. _ .« In 1889 the City Corporation voted $25,000 for the "improvement" of the park by making roads and drives, shady walks and groves, orna- mental waters and flower beds, etc., and the establishment of a miiature **Z^)o." It were impossible to " improve" this grand triumph of nature, still the artificial additions are a great " improvement," where it only as a matter of convenience. There are opinions that i hese " improvements" detract fi.:m the pristine beauty of the scene ; however, the casual visitor wUl admit 1 hat " improvements" for convenience and pleasure cannot detracc from the beauty stretching far beyond, except a giirantic kind of Chinese wall were birik around the place, even then Mount Baker and the Olympians would peep over the top. The distance of the Olympian range (about 20 miles) "lends en- chantment to the view;" the Victorians have all "the view," while their American Cousins have all the mountains, so honors are easy on this score, although very much in favor of the Victorians. The " Zoo " contains several fine specimens of Ihe denizens of the native forest wilds and the mild-eyed fur-seal of the northern seas. A **whale" can be seen by stepping into the hotel at the main entrance to the Park. A visit to Beacon Hill in early morn', sultry midday, or the hour of glorious sunset, in shower or sunshine, summer or winter, hourly, daily or weekly, will be found always enjoyable and never menotonous. The band from the fleet at Esquimalt, that of " C " Battery Royal Canadian Artillery, perform selectioi ; alternately in the afternoons during week days, and Che Queen City Band on Sundays. Light refreshments, iced lemonade, milk,, etc., can be obtained at the stands near the fountains. Neatness and order are observable everywhere. There are many "im- provements " yet required, which will come all in good time. The visitor reluctantly tears himself away from all this pomp of nature and romantic beauty (not forgetting the "improvements,") with a lasting impression engraved on the memory of the unsurpassable situation and beautiful surroundings of famed Beacon Hill. . BOATING UP THE] VICTORIA ARM. The romantic stretch of water known as Victoria Arm (a beautiful, sl)apely ann, inc'eed,) is an inlet of the sea running up the valley between TOUEISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. ^ the A to the )ur of daily The nadian week iced ntaiiis. im- visitor inautic >ression autiful >i tht hills to the north-west and the Sooke hills to the south-west, forcing its way for a distance of about seven miles till it very nearly forms a junction with the waters of Const,ance Cove, Esquimalt Harbor. When the tide is on the full the water flows upward at the race of about nine miles an hour, returning, when ou the ebb with, if anything, increased velocity, giving to " the Arm " the appearance of a river. As far as the "Gorge" its surface it smooth, beyond that point, where it forces its way between the confined rocks, the surface is turbulent and the bod of the stream more shallow. Boating is easy beyond "the CxDrge," if going with the tide, while "the Gorge " itself for a distance of thirty or forty yards is at all times, particularly at the ebb, where the narrow volunio of w.\ter boiling with maddening furv rushes between the r(»cks — a dantjor- piece of navigation. A towpath runs under the bridge and the boat is easily " tracked" through the defile. Fatal accidents have happened at this point through foolhardiness, in a reckless endeavtu* tn breast the trublent stream. 'Tis afternoon, the heat of the day is declini-ig, the fresh evening sea breeze is blowing across the harbor as the t urist reaches the landing- stairs on the Government street side of James Bay bridge. A boat is hired for the afternoon (see boat fares). Pulling up the harbor past the crowds of shipping ahmg the wharves, under the railway bridge and the Rock Bay bridge — say the tide is on " the full," and with very little exertion Victoria Arm is entered. The visitor is enraptured with the enchantment of the romantic scene before hun, unfolding as he glides smoothly along the unruffled surface lit up into a sheet of burnished gold by the declining sun and the creamy hue of the brazen sky overhead. The wooded sides, tho deepening dales and sylvan glades, the rocky shores and pendant groves of bright arbutus or sombre fir, wh'tse gradu- ally lengthening shadovs cast their' reflections in the placid waters, the verdant lawns stretching down to the water's edge, the stately homes of wealth and ease peeping over the tops of surrounding bowers, the ever changing: feature of rockv point and headland. Shade deepening over shade of many colored woods, whose green embroidered robes of every tint, from emerald to sooty black, embrace the horizon around. The crowds of pleasure boats with their joyous occupants of youtli and beauty tioating gaily o:» the stream of life, the picnic parties of mirthful children, homely matrons and thoughtful sires, youth and a^te, the civili/od Christian and the older heathen civilization of far off Cathay, all enjoying the blissful enehaatment of the dreamy scone, or the delicious shade of bowery thickets, of lofty pines and venerable oaks. The iieart beats glad floating on this full flowing stream, a delicious cooli..g comfort glides through the nerves, the eye expands taking in the tuU scope of the beau- tiful surroundings, the sinews knit as you bend to the oar and life is renewed, as it were, to a blissful thought of a peacitul romantic dream of fairyland. 42 tourists' pictorial guide. The skiff being "tracked" through "'the Gorge," the voyage of dreamy pleasure is continued past the Victoria Gardens on the right on up through deepening banks, the umbratic shores becoming more darkened as the sun disappears over the western hills, sinking to rest in the great waters beyond, lighting into myriads of shades and hues the tops of the facing forest-clad hills. The "row" has been lengthened. Retracing the course a landing at the Victoria Gardens, or Marshall's hotel on the opposite side of the Gorge, may be deemed necessary to recupera!-e the body. These hostleries will be found clean and neat, although not com- ing up to the " Star and Garter " or " Rosherville." A good tea, supper or dinner, with good wines, wil be served to order. Shrimps and tea (not for 9d., though,) broiled salmon or trout, delicious fruit, can be en- joyed amidst the shady groves The tide is on the ebb, " the rapids are near and daylight is past," the pale silver moon sheds her beams on the calm waters, the giant forest trees assume fantastic shapes, the song and chorus breaks on the stillne'^s of the scene, the dip of oars and diamor d spray sparkels in the silvery liorbt. Floating on, prolonging the journey, never wearying of the iu^b uties around. Grand was the prospect as seen by the light of a sum- mer's sun, the pT.ler orb of night diffuses a more calm subdued blissful- ness around. Tlie tourist returns to his hotel renewed in health, strength, mind and body by the evening's exercise and lost in love, arJ with a romantic admiration for Victoria's Arm, the delightful beautiei of which will never be forgotten. ' rmu uimi A WALK THROUGH VICTORIA. The ever bright sunshine and cloudless sky, the scent of the rose and honeysuckle, the cool refreshing breeze, invite a stroll abroad. Let us explore the buaifiess portion of the city, and note the evidences of wealth and commercial prosperity, observable throughout this the wealthiest city in America for the number of population. Wealth here, is more equally distributed am(mg8t the pei>ple, and Victoria cannot aa yet, boast of its exclusive four hundred. Here in the well stocked stores of Government street — the Regent street o.' Victoria — may be seen the key to the tastes and requirements of the inhabitants. Jewellers and drapers predominate, rich and rare are the goods and stuffs displayed ; articles of merchandise suitable for wealthy customers ; diamonds and silks, millinery the newest and latest, and such like. What crowds of cust(m)ers throng in and out the shopis, pretentious equipages dash along the thoroughfares, talcing up or depositing purchasers — not merely shop viewers. The throng of beauty and fashion crowding this favorite prom- enade, especially of an afternoon. Each and every fair one exhibiting TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. m perfect good taste in dress, free from that loud extreme and gaudiness of fashion painfully noticeable in western cities. North of the Post OflBce at the junction of Yates street, is " Campbell's Corner" the most noted and well-known spot on the Paciric Coast of America, from Cape Horn to Kamtschatka. Cigars and tobacco in the little shop for a " bit," and oucuide a free read of the daily papers, with the latest news and dispatches done in red and blue on the bulletin board, free, gratis, or for nothing, or perhaps an exhibition of some exceptionally large fruit or other curi- osity. Knots of comfortable looking old-time pioneers, lounging in and about the little shop, discussing with the jovial looking proprietor the events of early days, or examining some lately discovered ri h specimen of ore. " The Corner " is a wooden building, a remnant of early Colonial days, and may be removed at any time, like its old companions, to make way for the onward march of improvement — now rapidly destroying all such evidences of the past. The proprietor, Mr. .Frank Campbell, is a great authority on the history of the country; very conversant, and always ready to repeat his experience of events, men and things, in the good old days of Cariboo. The broad thoroughfare of Yates street, running at right angles to Government street, is Iseing rapidly built up with solid brick buildings, replacing the old wooden structures, whose usefulness has passed away. Turn to the left and pass down the wholesale quarter. No need of remark, as the buildings, lanes and courts, the heavy iron shutters, bales and boxes of merchandise being constantly loaded and unloaded, indi- cate as much. The warehouses, shipping and booking offices along Wharf street, which runs parallel with the harbor, deserted and silent enough when you landed in the evening, but now full of life and activity. Smartly dressed clerks, staid looking merchants, move about in a busi- ness like manner, without flurry or bluster or ostentatious display. Yet the wealth of Wharf Street is proverbial. The crowded ware-houses, the busy wharfs, ships discharging cargo from Liverpool, London, the Straits Settlements, San Francisco, etc. The fleet winged schooners from Behring Sea, with rich cargoes of fur seals and sea otters, and the heavily laden steamers from the salmon canneries of the Fraser river. Rivers Inlet, Naas river. Port Simpson, Skeena and other distant ports, to bo shipped as return cargo to London, Liverpool and Melbourne, as the case may be. 'Tis true the warehouses and other buildings can lay no claim to being pretentious. To understand the volume of business done a peep must be had behind the scenes — into the ledgers, bank books and the customs returns. Satisfied now by these outward and inward visible sigas despite the supposed "sleepy," "old madish," "easy going" character given by some very distinguished transient writers, who either from neglect or 4 TOURISTS PICTORIAL UUIDB. other cauBe did not examine ini^o the actual state of affairs — the tourist will feel himself releived of an uncertainity. Knota of blue jackets, red and blue marines and Royal Canadian Artillery strolling along impart the appearance of a British garrison town to the place. A good birds eye view of the city and harbor can be obtained from Church Hill — near Christ Church Cathedral — or from the heights to the east. A view from the top of Mount Douglas to the north-west would be superb and doubly repay the trouble. To the mineralogist, a visit to Kurtz' cigar store, on Government street, will be found very interesting, where a tine, well-aelected cabinet of British Columbian ores and minerals is open to the inspection of the public. If the t urist desires to entangle himself in the meshes of the law a visit to the new law courts in Bastion Square — an unique structure of its kind — will fill all requirements. If he can extricate himself without the assistance of a guide he deserves a medal. The judges and counsellors in court appear in full boLLomad A^igs and gowns and other accessories (»f a full British Court of Justice. No doubt the eye of the tourist has been held spellbound by the elaborate "gilt edged" appearance and profusion of Real Estate offices, an indisjjutaljle sign that real property in Victoria is being eagerly sought after. Some advertise that they are selling property for a song, while others are so very obliging and accommodating as to offer it for an old pair of boots, furnishing the boots into the bargain, in order to make a deal. Real estate \n and around Victoria is a profitable investment. House rents and ground rents return good interest on outlay, while the value increases from year to year without any precepiatble "boom." The banks will advance three-fourths value on any property in the vicinity. Over 350 new houses were erected in 1889, and the estimated cost of buildings contracted for on 1st January, 1890, amounted to two million dollars 1 That estimate will be nearly doubled before the end of the year. The probabilities are that the value of real property in Victoria and vicinity will, judging from the past year and present indications, more than double in value the next twelve months, especially in the out- lying districts and the immediate business portion of the city. Should the tourist be desirous to invest before doi"g so, it were well that he should consult his banker regarding the matter. 'I his hint is given only as a precautionary measure. There are very many real estat ■ firms in Victoria whose reputation, probity and credit stands as high and as reputable as any banker's; yet there may be in this particular line of business some so unscruplous that it were better to avoid. A "good talk- ing man" with sufficient money to pay a monti/s rent, buy a bottle of ink and a few sheets of pa[)er as stock in trade, with a bniken down tabl 3 and a chair as furniture, can easily start a real estate r>ffic« and rely oi. the gullability of human natur ess. The golden opportunity is TOURISTS PIOTORIAL OUIDR. ^ tompting-^however, a word to the wise is suflScient. Intending in- vestors would do well to provide themselves with letters of introduction to their banker or to men of repute before leaving the Old Country. The Young Men's Christian Association Rooms and the Public Library and Reading Rooms adjoin, situated in the Broad street part of Spencer's Arcade, near the Diiard Hotel. These rooms are well patronized by the citizens and strangers sojourning in the city. The city police office and court, alsni the several municipal offices will be found in the City Hall, corner of Pandora and Douglas streets. This building is hav- ing a new addition made this season consisting of a moi ecomnjodiout: council chamber, clock tower, etc. The visitor to the public buidings in Victoria will wonder at the wires invariable strung overhead in all the large chambers — they are not telegraph lines, nor yet clothes lines— they are more properly speaking a kind of telephone arrangement to catch the sound of the voice before it is lost in the ceiling and precipitate it back on to the ear of the listeners, a very desirable arrangement; else speakers would be losfc in the haze of their cwn verbosity and retain all the benefit arrising therefrom to themseves. It is to be hijped that the tourist will admit that the hour's ramble around the streets proved profitable and entertaining. A visit to Chinatown should be made at night accompanied by guide, when the opium and gambling deys, Jos houses, theatres, etc., are in full blast. A DRIVE TO ESQUIMALT will be next in order. The tourist can go by the electric cars, 'bus, or hack. In crossing the Rock liay bridge, to the left will be observed the Indian settlement, occupying the valuable neck of land on the west side of the harbor, which, instead of the canoes seen along the beach and the scattered Indian shanties should be occupied by shipping, wharves and wai-ehouses. In all prob.»bility such will be the cise in a short time. When that happy result takes place it will nut come before it is needed. A splendid road on which you are travelling — equal to a turnpike isn't it? If the government of British Columbia can boast of nothing else they can bo'st of the roads, which are maintained by them in a high state of ex- cellence, and considering the roughness of the country, are the best on the continent of America. P'olitical issues between the "in's" and "out's" are fought on the roads — the knights of the shire are knights of the road — on which they make the ministers stand and deliver. The "in's," to pro- pitiate the constituencies, deal generously with the roads and the "out's" see that the appropriations are expended. Such, however, may not be the right road to political morality, still, the visitor, not questioning the means, will cast an unbiased ballot in favor of the excellent condition of the roads in British Columbia. Note the buildings and clearings extending on either side; they are but things of yesterday. Only twelve months ago here the stately forest 46 TOtlRISTs' PICTORIAt GUlDB. i: m trees bent to the breeze, forming a drive of cylvan beauty; now cut up, displaying stumps and nakedness, and a glaring newness which, to say the least, are at best unsightly. The polish and finishing touches will follow in due course ; lawns, gardens and orchnrds will add a new beauty for a time, and only a time, when they in turn will, perforce, give place to those gigantic structures of trade and commerce which at no distant day, will garnish the road on which you are now travelling. To the intelligent observer this assertion is no myth or vain boast. Westward is the march of empire, and if ever Esquimalt is anything it must be the port of the waters of the Pacitic. Canadian Artillery men, blue jackets and marines, are plentiful along the way, the neat wayside inns scattered at convenient intervals, even the very names of which denote the approach to a large naval and military station, and call tu miud familiar scenes in the older Britain. Before descending the hill towards the little village of JSsquimalt look over to the right, the laud rising from the harbor in a gentle slope where farm steadingi, tields and meadows gladden the landscape. There some prophetic ones declare will arise a city — the westward extension of Vic- toria, surpassing in commercial brilliancy, the hopes and aspirations of the most sanguine "boomer." It is caid that a canal uniting the Arm with the waters of Conatance Cove and some other slight additions would give about eight miles of the best sheltered and the safest anchorage in the world. During the row up the Arm did it not strike the idea that there was a great amount of power in the ebb and flow which could be utilized for mechanical purposes. That Victo ia will extend to and beyond Es- quimalt in a few years is a safe conjecture; the older portion of the city will always hold its own in wealth and importance, while the newer portions, here to the west, will be the great shipping and manufacturing centres. Esquimalt is the only natural terminus for a Canadian trans-conti- nental railway and is that of the Canada Western. The prophetic predictions of the seers may come to pass much sooner than imagined even by themselves. . . What a fine view of the harbor of Esquimalt aud the Royal Roads, beautiful in the extreme, useful in the piping times of peace or the stir- ring times of war. Opposite is Constance Coye where those iron bul- warks of Britain ride so easily at anchor. What miles of arfbhorage the circling shores oflfer where the busy life and the sounds of trade and in- dustry will soon liven up and break (m the surrounding stillness. There where the tall chimney stands is the Graving Dry Dock, constructed at the joint expense of the Imperial and Dominion authorities at a cost of $900,000. When the improvements now being executed are completed this dock will be capable of accommodating the largest man-o'-war afloat. To the left is the Royal ^aval arsenal, the yard occupied by store houses, TOURISTS PICTORIAL OUIDB. ;,oads, stir- bul- re the nd in- There at the ost of pleted afloat, louseg, repair shops, provision depots, stacks of shot and shell, etc. The Royal Naval docks are beini; f irnished with large cranes and other appliances for loading or unloading of heavy ordnance, a barracks for the garrison of Royal Marine Artillery, sub- marine minors, lines of fortitications and other accessories required to protect the harbor from tlie sea are in course of construction. For Esquimalt is one of the chiuf coaling stations recommended by the late Royal Comnjission on Colonial Defence as worthy of being protected from the assaults of an enemy, besides being the headquarters of the Pacific Squadron and the depot for warlike sup- plies. The inexhaustible coal fields of Nanaimo are connect d by rail, and in time of need there are the resources of the broad Dominion to fall back upon. In case of European complications Britt in has in her North American possessions both an invaluable source fc^r supplies and an un- interrupted route secure through her own territory to reach her Asiatic possesions From the time when Vancouver anchored in this harbor, ovjr one hundred years ago, '^own to the present, the importance (»f Esquimalt to the Empire has ever been acknowledged. In 1854 the attack of some ships of the Pacific Squadron ■ n the Russian settlement in the north having resulted rather severely, Esquimalt proved a very use- ful appendage ia more ways than one. And the precautionary measures of detenc*, now in hand, show the wisdom of the Lords of the Admiralty in carrying out the recoiumen lations of the Royal Commission. The garrison consists of about 100 marines and engineers, 130 men "C " Bat- tery Royal Canadian Regiment of Artillery, and a reserve in the Head Quarter Batteries of the British Columbia Artillery Militia —in all about 500 men on land, with from two to four ships and cruisers of the Pacific Squadron nearly always present in the harbor. This garrison can, in case of emergency, be augmented by reinforcements in a short tirio either from the home station, Halifax, N. S., or Bermuda. The Dry Dock has been found to beof great service to the Admiralty, especially in the case of the late serious accident to fl. M. Ship Amphion, which only for this dock would, in all probability, have resulted in a total loss to the country of one of its finest cruisers. The little hamlet of Esquimalt does not present a very ambitious ap- pearance compatible with its Imperial importance, a shop or two, s'^me hotels, of which the Globe is the be^t, and several public houses and beer shops, and a few private houses make up the community. The Royal Naval hospital, canteen and other quarters situated on the east side of Constance Cove are passed before entering the village. The barracks of the Canadian artillery are situated at Macauley's Point, opposite the Half-way House, about midway to Victoria. iShould the tourist desire to visit any of the war ships in harbor a boat can be hired at the stairs at the bottom of Esquimalt's only street. The ships are free AS TOURISTS* PICTORIAL Ol^IDR. h» visitors any time duiinjj the dtiy up to " retreat," (sunset). The Drj Dock is open to visitors also. The officers of the fleet mix freely in * society A- d are invariably very hospitable. A ball in the sail lo^t at thd Naval Yard is snuiuthing splendid, lit up by electricity and decorateq with flags as only saihirs know how to do. The conduct of the seameq .| and marines when on shore has always been exemplary and a credit td the noble service to which they belong. In returning to Victoria a drive by way of tho 'A CRAIGFLOWER ROAD would be a fitting conclusion to the day's outing. Driving to the Gorge bridge a splendid view of the Arm can be obtained. On one side the city in the distance towards which the Arm widens out, crowded witf \^. pleasure bojits, and is now seen to better advantage than from the wat* 'f — the eye has more scf)pe consequently the landscape appears morfidiver- i sifled. The upper reach of the Arm, like a swift flowing stream,, affurtUi a more contracted prospect nevertheless beautiful. The journey along this road will be found very enjoyable, although the dust may be a little f tioublesome, it affords shade and sunshine alternately till within a mile or so of the city when the clearings, with their stumps and new looking houses, make a break in a very picturesque drive. The sound of the woodsman's axe and the builder's hammer break discordantly on the ear and disturbs the surrounding stillness. Clearing and burning the work of man's destructiveness goes on under the name of improvement, creep- ing gradually on the domain of nature and here invading her in her very stronghold. But such must be. Necessity requires it, the way of the great ci y must be cleared. Alrcadi it has burst across the intervening waters and the work of invasions is ..rried ruthlessly on. A short time ago one of the Colonial millionaires secured a stretch of forty acres on this road extending from the bridge along the shores of the Ann, with tho intention of building a palatial residence and making the grounds triumphs of landscape gardening. Consequently the value of property tt»ok a rise, and this circumstanf^e and the romantic beauty of the locality causes a demand for residential locations along the roads in the immedi- ate vicinity of the Victoria Arm. Where every spot isbeauttful it would f be hard to discriminate, as the openings occur they afford a splendid view of the residences and gr. unds on the opposite side of the Arm. This road runs almost parallel with the Esquimalt road, another year will see the intervening forest cleared, where streets, houses and mansions will, spring up with the rapidity of magic. i The Drj lix freely in I lo^t at thd I decoratecl the seanienj i a credit to the Gorgej 3ne aide thej owded witf m the wate 1 monj di*-er-j earn,, affurdai urney alun^ ly be a littlej [thin a mile new looking )und of the y on the ear ig the work iient, creep- : in her very way of the intervening ^ short time rty acres on Arm, with the grounds ctf property f the locality the itnmedi- ;tful it would pleudid view Arm. This year will see lansions will