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 1 
 
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 -THB 
 
 TOURISTS' PICTORIAL 
 
 -AND— 
 
 H: ATTD BOOIK 
 
 Bntis 
 
 8HOBBS oiSnSE 
 
 tBSC 
 
 THCiWPAeiriG Waters; 
 
 -BY— 
 
 ROSE)3RT 3y[:^o3^-A.3SrTJS, 
 
 Victoria, B. C, Canada. 
 / "Thk Touristb* Pictorial Ocidb" Pubmbhino Co. 
 
 "THB CotONIBT" PbINTINO Co. 
 
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-THB 
 
 TOURISTS' PICTORIAL GUIDE 
 
 -AND— 
 
 i3:j^i<tjd booi^ 
 
 -TO— 
 
 BritisI; QDlumbia 
 
 AND THE SHORES OP THE 
 
 NeRTHERN PACiriG Waters 
 
 —BY— 
 
 tioib:e}tit 2:js:^gi^j^i<ttj&, 
 
 Victoria, B. C, Canada. 
 
 "Thk Toubists' Pictokial Guide" Publishino Co. 
 
 "Thk Colonist" Printing Co. 
 

 PREFACE. 
 
 The weak attempt in the confined space of this Guide to adequately 
 depict the grandeur and niagnificenco of the many wonders of nature 
 displayed in British Columbia is somewhat aided by the camera, so that 
 the few plain words used may be conveyed to the uiiderstaiidin'^ of the 
 reader through the medium of the eye and mind together. Conscious, 
 however, that both pen and lens here fails to do mere justice to a subject 
 so sublime, indulgence is craved for many defects. 
 
 Figures and statistical returns, at best tedious aud tiresome, have 
 been carefully avoided. 
 
 If sometimes the author in the few commonplace remarks here 
 written, like Mr. Wegg, occasionally, descends from the sublime to the 
 rediculous and unintentionally "drops into poetry, not being a regular 
 musical professional it must be considered in the light of a frien'd," and 
 who, like that far seeing respectable individual, "is well acquainted with 
 his faults," and was "always, from childhood, too sensitive," neverthe- 
 less he can say in the words of Cov/per: "My descriptions are all 
 from nature, not one of them second-handed. My delineations (if any 
 there are) are from my own experience, not one of them borrowed frt)m 
 books." 
 
 Should this little volume be the means of attracting the attention of 
 a moiety of the travelling public of the older lands to c<»me, see and 
 admire the natural scenic display ar.d enjoy the unrivalled climate of 
 dear, ever beautiful Victoria, whose pristine charms increase with years, 
 then, indeed, will the humble author be amply recompensed; and the 
 hightest complimentary tribute visitors can pay will be in the remark 
 that, this "guide book" fails to even attempt anything approaching a 
 proper, just and sufficient description of the grand displays of iiAtiire 
 everywhere visible throughout the length and breadth of this favored 
 land, the brightest and most valuable gem in the British Colonial diadem. 
 
 Victoria, January, 1890. 
 
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CONTENTS. 
 
 Part I. 
 
 Introductory Remarks— Unrivalled attractions of British Colum- 
 bia, as a tourist and hunting resort. — The journey to Victoria the Capital 
 of British Columbia. — Canadian Pacific Railway. — "The Great Lone 
 L:ind," — History, Topography and Climate. — "The Sea of Mountains." 
 — 600 miles of Nature's grandeur. — The Golden Days of Cariboo. — 
 — Retrospective. — End of Journey from Ocean to Ocean. — 75 mile 
 Voyage through the lyabrinths of V'estern Fairyland. — Arrival at Vic- 
 toria. ' Glorious Sunset. 
 
 Part 11. 
 
 Vancouver Island. — City of Victoria the Beautiful. — Its Attractions 
 as a Tourist Resort. — Financial, Commercial and Manufacturing im- 
 portance. — Canada Western Railway. — Romantic Situation.— Beacon 
 Hill.- The Victoria Arm. — The Pacific Gibraltar, Esquimalt Harbor. — 
 Victoria West, the Great City of the Future. — Envir(»n3 of Victoria. — 
 Electric Railway. — Railways and Steamboat Time Tables. — China Town. 
 — Churches, —Colleges and Schools. — Provincial and City Officials. — 
 Hotels. — Table of Rates and Charges. — Banking Houses. — Societies. — 
 Hunting and Fishing. — Resorts. — Real Estate. — Opportunities for Profi- 
 table Investments 
 
 Nanaimo — Along the Island Railway. — Duncan's Station.— Cow- 
 ichan Lake, the Garden of the Island. — Salt Spring Island. — Hunting 
 and Fishing. — Coal Mining Industry. — Comox. — Fort Rupert. 
 
 West Coast — Alberni.- Quatsino Sound.— Shipping and Cpaling 
 Facilities of the Western Coast. — Romantic Scenery. 
 
 Part 111. 
 
 Mainland— New Westminster, Delta and Valley of the Fraser 
 River — Salmon Curing and Manufacturing Industries. — Horticulture 
 and Agriculture. — Trade and Commerce. 
 
 Vancouver Jity — Rapid Growth and Importance as an Emporium 
 of Commerce. — Manufacturing Industries. —Burrard InleL-r-VaatiLimber ' % ^^1, 
 Trade. t ijf N. W .TflStOry JOPt. 
 
 PROVINCIAL LIBRARY 
 
 Q 9 ^ h c 
 
 VICTORIA, ■. 0. 
 
4 CONTENTS. 
 
 Harrison Hot Sprinos— Health Resort. — Hunting and Fishing. — 
 Romantic Scenery. 
 
 Yale— Kamlooks— Cuttle Rancho Country. — Mining. 
 
 Kootenay — The Western Killarney. — Rich Mining and Agricul- 
 tural Country. — Schemes for Development. — Okanugan. -Uoniantic 
 Scenery. — Rich Mining and Farming Country. — Rapid Dovolopment. 
 
 Cariboo— Quartz Mining. — Projected Rrilway, 
 
 Cassiar Country. — Mining.— Other Industries. 
 
 Part IV. 
 
 Voyage along the Coast — Seymour Narrows. — Bute Inlet. — 
 Knight's Inlet. — Rivers Inlet. — Skeena. -Fort Simpson. — Queen Char- 
 lotte Islands. — Vast Economic Resources. — Mining and Fishing In- 
 dustries. — Future Prospects. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 Cattle Ranching. — Horticulture. — Agriculture. — Cattle Raising. — 
 
 Synopsis 
 
 of 
 
 Mining and Lumber Industries. — Hunting and Fishing. 
 Mniing, Timber, Coal and Land Regulations. — Table of Distances. 
 Real Estate and other Investments. —Hints to intending Settlers and 
 Investors. — Concluding Remarks. , 
 
 Part IV. (Continued.) - 
 
 The Return Journey. — Shores of Puget Sound, U. S. — Port 
 Angeles. — Port Townsend. — Seattle. — Tacoma. — Steamboats and Rail- 
 ways. — Hotels, &c. 
 
 •*->5 
 
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 .—Port 
 id Rail- 
 
 THOS. eOGK & SON, 
 HAlll\(|EI(^ OF m\f \p EXCUI(^I0N^. 
 
 Oriifinators of tho World-renosvuod Tourist and KxcupmIoii 
 liHheu 1841. specially iippoiiited b.v liis Koyal liiKhiu'ss tlu> 
 
 System. 
 l*iincM» of 
 
 K'stuh- 
 \N ales. 
 
 Piii-sengcr AK<'»tH for t lie Royal British Connnijsion. Vienna. 1S7M; lMiiladeli)liin, 
 1876. I'aris, 1878, and Colonial and Indian, IK84!. Sole Owners of the Kirsl-C^lass 
 Tourist Steaniora on the N'ile. Oflieial j^ Rents for all Indian Uuilwayb. <ionoral 
 ra>THuni;er AKcnts for the Midland Railway of Kngland, &(;., &o., 
 
 TKr-KOKAi'iiu; Addrkhh kok Lon'don and Pkovinciai, Okkickh.— Coupon. 
 
 ^ LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON. 
 
 CHIEF OFFICK, 
 
 LUDGATE CIRCUS. 
 
 LOx\l)ON. E. C. 
 HRANCII OKKICE8. 
 
 (Uty Offlee- W Green Clnirch St. 
 
 West En-J Oftleea : 
 33 Piccadilly, and 82 Oxford Ptreet, 
 Langhani Hotel, and Hotel Metrijjole. 
 Mr. VVni. Whiteley's. 
 
 Strand Offloc.— 44a West Strand. 
 
 Holborn— First Avenue Hotel. 
 
 Front of St. Pancras Station. 
 
 Chrystal Palace— Tourist CJourt. 
 
 Mnnr-hPstPr i ^^ Market street. 
 Manchester ^ yy oidham Street. 
 
 Liverpool.- -51 Lord Street. 
 
 uir.r.iir,ryv.a..i I Stevcnsou Placo. 
 Birmingham j .^ jjjjj at,.eet. 
 
 Warsall.— Post Off. HdRs., The Bridge. 
 Wolverhampton.— 37 Queen Street. 
 Leeds.— 1. Royal Exchange. 
 Bradford.— 8 Exch^tnge. Market St. 
 Sheffield.— Chancre. Alley Corner. 
 Nottingham.— IG Clumber S reet. 
 Leicester.- 7, Oallowtree Gate. 
 Edinburgh. —t), Princes Street. 
 Glasgow.— 162, Argy.e Street. 
 Obnn — The Esplanade, 
 Dublin,- 42, Dame Street. 
 Belfast.- 27. Royal Avenue. 
 t>o,.i= ( 1' Place de I'opera, 51 Rue Scribe 
 **^'^^ I and Grand Hotel. 
 Nice.— 15, Quai Massenn. 
 Cannes,— 71, Rue d'Antibes. 
 Marseilles. — 44, Rue Noailles. 
 Geneva.— 90, Rue du Rhone. 
 Lucerne | Hotel du Cygnc 
 Bruirsela.— 22 Galerie du Roi. Galicries 
 Cologne.— 40, Domhof. LSt. Hubert. 
 
 Vienna.— 2, Stejdmnsplat:;. 
 Pest h.— .3. Dortheengasae. 
 Rome. I K, Piazza dl Spagne. 
 Naples.— Piazza del Martiri. 
 Milan. -45, Piazza del Duomo. 
 Florence,— 10, Via Turnabuoni. 
 Venice. Hotel Victoria. 
 Turin.- Hotel Trombolta. 
 Brindisi. -Haglioni's Grand Hotel. 
 Algiers. Sxuare Bresaon. 
 Malta.- 308, Strada Reale. 
 
 CHIEF AMERICAN OFFICE. 
 261-252, Broadway, N. V. 
 
 Branch Okfices: 
 
 Boston.- 332, Washington Street, 
 Philadelphia.- South 8th Street. 
 Chicago.— 232, South Clark Street. 
 Jacksonville;.- 79, West Bay Street. 
 
 ORIENTAL OFFICES. 
 
 Constantinople.— 170, Grand Rue de 
 Athens. — Place do laConatitution |Pera 
 Cairo, ( Kg\ pi )— Cook's Pavilion. 
 Alexandria.— Place Mahomet All. 
 Jfitta, (Palestine) -.lerusalem Hotel. 
 Jerus »l"m. Near the .Jaffa Gate. 
 Bevrout. Near Hotel d'Urient. 
 Calcutta.- 11, Old Court House Street. 
 
 AUSTRALASIA. 
 
 Adelaide. Sydney. 
 
 Melbourne. Auckland. 
 
 (Extract.) 
 
 Ludgate Circus, 
 
 London, E. C, 
 
 November 26th, 1889. 
 
6 
 
 TOUKIHTS' PICTORIAL (JUIDE. 
 
 HoBKRT MacManuh, EftQ. , 
 
 P. O. Box 208. 
 
 Thb Tourists' Pictoiial Guide and Hand Book, 
 
 To B. C. Publishing Company, Victoria, B. C. 
 
 Dear Sir : 
 
 We are in receipt of your letter of the 19th ult. * * * With 
 regard to the distribution oi your new Tourist Pictorial Guide to British 
 Columbia, * * ♦ we can place same on sale a^ this ana our various 
 Branch Offices, a list of which you will find above. * * * 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 (Signed) Tiios. Cook & Son, 
 
 Per E. A. Harrison. 
 
 1 
 
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 :::-:r:::: 
 
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INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 * With 
 to British 
 ir various 
 
 Across the Atlantic and Continent of A' erica 
 to Victoiici, British Columbia. 
 
 Son, 
 Harrison. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 
 Many of the tourist cIhss in the I'nited Kini^doin and the Continent 
 are of upiniou that the well worn tracks of trjuriat travel are becoming 
 somewhat stale and monotonous. The facilities for rapid transit in the pre- 
 sent day creates a desire for extended tdiira beyond the bounds of old 
 fashioned routes to distant lands ; and the isolated countries which, a 
 few years as^o, were considered only app'oacViablo by intrepid circum- 
 navigators and explorers in seax'ch of new discf-veries and j>eo<^raphical 
 knowledge, are, today, by the Ocean modern Atlantic "Greyhounds," 
 .nnd the construction of great continental railways, replete with all the 
 conveniences of comfort and luxury, brought as near t<i London as the 
 n»>rth of Scotland was at the commencement of the present century. Till 
 the advent of that gigantic undertakiiig of Imperial and Colonial import- 
 ance -the Canadian Pacific Railway — little or nothing was known of that 
 portion of the Empire which, washed for over eight hundred miles of its 
 indented coast by the placid waters of the Northern Pacific Ocean, is 
 known to modern geographers as British C(»lumbia, the most western 
 province of the Dominion of Canada, and where it may be said the west 
 ceases and the east commences. 
 
 Now-a-day.s a tour to the Alpine regions of Switzerland, a trip up the 
 Rhine, a voyage to the coast of Norwaj', or the sunny Medit.!''"anean, is 
 l«K)ked uf)on as a mere holiday outing of a week or so. It will bo admit- 
 ted that the travelling conveniences of the day deprives such journeys of 
 much of their old time adventure. In our fathers' early days, the "grand 
 tour " of the continent was considered the copest^me of ace mplishment 
 and education. Things are diflerent n(»\v in these closing years of the 
 nineteenth century. The older tourist routes can boast of nothing new 
 to be seen, nor nothing new to be explored. The requirements of the 
 times*, therefore, calls for a remedy to dispel the einiui of monotony. The 
 question is often asked, " Where shall we go this season ?" The answer 
 
N 
 
 ill I 
 
 lii ! 
 
 lil 
 
 8 
 
 TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 is: Go to British Columbia, where the climate, equable at all seasons, is 
 most enjoyable, salubrious and iuvigoratinj? — a country where the tourist 
 will find the natural aspect of things so varying and different in scenery, 
 of mountain, sea and lake, forest, wood and stream, which for stupendu- 
 ous proportions, extent and magnitude of grandeur, have few, if any, 
 competitors. Europe can proudly boast of the hoary ruins of fallen Em- 
 pires and Kingdoms of ancient days, the art collections of centuries, and 
 those grand structures of architecture, with which the new world cannot 
 be expected to compete. Nature, to remedy the defect, here steps in 
 and exhibits to the visitor, in this Utopian Land of the Pacific, the moct 
 magniticent and gigantic desiL'ns of her conception, and has traced in 
 choicest colors, with an inimitable pencil, on three hundred and forty 
 thousand square miles of territory, the most .sublime sketches of her 
 creation ! The extent and sublimity of the tive hundred miles of moun- 
 tain scenery traversed by the Canadian Pacific Railway, and the splendor 
 of countless wooded islands — set as gems of emerald in the silvery waters 
 of the Pacific, along the extended shores, diversified by coves, bay^ and 
 shady inlets piercing the rock-bound coast, with bold headlands and jut- 
 ting promontories, thrown into sharp relief by a back-ground of snow- 
 capped mountains, must be seen to ba adequately appreciated. The Al- 
 pine regions of Switzerland, the beauty of Geneva or Coma, the fjords 
 and pine-clad inlets of Norway, or the classic shores of the Mediterranean, 
 stripped of their romance, become dwarfed and paled when compared 
 with the grand display of Nature's pictures in this fairy wonderla'd. The 
 poetic descriptive power of a Sir Walter Scott, or the gifted genius of a 
 Gainsborough or a Turner, might attempt to do justice to this — the ni'ist 
 elaborate of Nature's panoramas. As yet all attempts of pen and pencil in 
 this direction has been vain indeed. 
 
 *' One hundred and thirty-eight degrees west from Greenwich and 
 still in Britain," is one of the proud mottoes of British Columbia. A long 
 journey, certainly, still only about fourteen or sixt en days from London. 
 Seven thousand miles in sixteen days ! Seems something like the power 
 of the genii of Aladin's lamp. When the best of the London season is 
 over, the "Two Thousand," the " Derby " and "Ascot" have passed and 
 and gone, a change is desirable. The languid require something new and 
 exciting, und energy must be restored. In order to dispel lassitude 
 and restore both mind and body, and intoxicate the senses by a copious 
 draught from the inexhaustible tap of Nature, let the intendi- g tourist 
 secure a passage by the Canadian Pacific Railway, via New York, Halifax 
 or Quebec, to Victoria, the Capital City of the Province f)f British 
 Columbia. 
 
 A midsummer voyage across the Atlantic on board one of th > "Ocean 
 Greyhounds " u something enjoyable, The tourist will find the uffioials 
 of the Canadian Pacitic Railway obliging and painstaking in iuiparting 
 
 ^ 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 seasons, is 
 e the tourist 
 
 in scenery, 
 >r stupendu- 
 
 few, if any, 
 if fallen Em- 
 
 nturies, and 
 vorkl cannot 
 ere steps in 
 tic, the mopt 
 las traced in 
 d and forty 
 itches of her 
 les of moun- 
 
 the splendor 
 (ilve'y waters 
 es, bay^ and 
 ,nd3 and jut- 
 nd of snow- 
 ed. The Al- 
 a, the fjords 
 editerranean, 
 ten compared 
 iiderla'd. The 
 1 genius of a 
 [his — the most 
 ii and pencil in 
 
 Jreenwich and 
 umbia. A long 
 J from London, 
 like the i)ower 
 don season is 
 ave passed and 
 jthing new and 
 spel lassitude 
 Bs by a copious 
 tendi'g tourist 
 York, Halifax 
 nee of British 
 
 5(»f th« "Ocefin 
 ud the t»fficials 
 ija; in imparting 
 
 information, and unremitting in their attention for the comfort, conveni- 
 ence and safety of their passengers, from the Conductor (or Uuard), who 
 is the pink of politeness and neatness, down to the newsboy (?) This 
 latter individual is something akin to the reputed Irish " bhoy " regard- 
 ing age " nayther too young nor too owld;" he is invariably the best 
 barbered "boys " in America, which may, in a manner, account for his 
 youthful appellation. The traveller will find him assiduous in endeavor- 
 ing to dispose of his wares, apples, oranges candy, nuts, books, and the 
 latest publications of leading periodicals and newspapers. (>n other rail- 
 ways this innocent "boy " would try some boyish tricks on the "green- 
 horn " passenger by a quiet game of " draw poker," or the " three card 
 nionte," or the "dollar bill book trick," make boyish mistakes in giving 
 change, and other little boyish dodges to while away the tediousness of a 
 long journey. None of these harmless amusements are, however, per- 
 mitted on the cars of the Canadian Pacitic Railway. 
 
 The stoppins; places and dimng stations are marked on the company's 
 time-tables in this volume, also the sections in the wilderness, where 
 dining cars are attached to the train, in which sumptuous meals and 
 wines are served to passengers at moderate rates. The smart, ubit]uitous 
 " breaksman," trim, neat and well harbored, too, will give due warning 
 of all stations, dining places, etc., and cry out bef(ire the train starts, in a 
 loud stentorian voice, "all a-b-o-o-o-r-r-d," which means, in American 
 railway parlance, "take your seats, please." How the phrase "all 
 aboard" came into use is not certain. Long journeys and the up and 
 down swaying motion of rude railways in early times may have suggested 
 the sea going words. En route the "cul'd genTmn" of the Pullmm 
 Sleeping car will be found everything desirable as valet, housemaid or 
 general intelligence officer of the brigade. 
 
 Care should be taken t- have all the luggage, or as it is designated 
 in America "baggage," checked for its destination, Victoria, B. C, 
 before starting on the journey across the continent. By this "checking" 
 system it is impossible to hnve your luggage mislaid or lost. The com- 
 pany are respcmsible as long as the passenger retains the duplicate 
 " check," which never should be surrendered till the piece of luggage it 
 represents is delivered. A separate brass "check" is given for each 
 separate piece. 
 
 En route, a visit to the historic Plains of Abraham at Quebec, to 
 Montreal, the mercantile capital of the Dominion; a run down the mighty 
 St. Lawrence through " The Thousand Islands," from Kingston, would 
 be interesting ; Niagara, Toronto and Ottawa are also accessible. A 
 choice of routes lies at the op^^ion of the tourist. Either by steamer 
 across the vast Superior, or around that inland sea by the north pl.ore 
 all rail route to Port Arthur, situated on the western shore of the lake. 
 
10 
 
 tourists' pictorial guide. 
 
 I 
 
 [\': 
 
 IP I 
 
 The ragged country through which lies this part of the jourtiey is 
 thickly wooded, rocky, and abounding lu chains of small picturesque 
 lakes. Rich deposits of silver are being worked at Port Arthur and 
 around the shores o^ Thunder Bay, also at R»t Portage, Lake of the 
 Woods. From Port Arthur, then Prince Arthur's Landing (after H. R. 
 H. the Duke of Connaught) started the first n)ilitary expedition General 
 Lord Wolseley had the honor to commiud. Some 1,000 men, 200 voy- 
 agers and followers, with arms, ammunition, four mountain guns, provi- 
 sions and munitions of war for a twelve months' campaign, were trans- 
 ported by means of boats and portaginor along the waterways extending 
 from Lake Superior to Winnipeg, then Fort Garry, for the suppression of 
 the Red River Rebellion under Reil in 1870. This expedition was 
 about three months on the road, or rather water, before reaching its 
 destination. Four hundred miles of wilderness travel in three months 
 was looked upon then as an extraordinary feat. During Reil's last effort 
 of rebellio', in 1885, at Prince Albert, 500 miles north-west of Winnipeg 
 and 300 miles from the railway, 5,000 troops, with all munitions, were placed 
 in the Saskatchewan country in about as many weeks. What a contrast ! 
 
 From Winnipeg the journey across the great western prairies may 
 be said to commence. The rich, well cultivated districts along the rail- 
 way, Portage la Prairie, Brandon, M<josomin, are passed during daylight. 
 At Moosomin, Assiniboia, the second steppe of the prairies will be as- 
 cended, i'he celebrated "Bell Farm" and the picturesque little hamlet of 
 Qu'Appello, alsoRegina— "the Queen City of the plains," are passed dur- 
 ing the night. Being now on the great ocean of prairie, " 800 niiles 
 across," there is little to attract the attention of the tourist. A mono- 
 tony of ttand hills and dunes, like billows on the wide expanse of ocean 
 prairie, without a tree, shrub, or human habitation. The total absence 
 of life, except it be a solitary raven or chicken-hawk, fox or prairie wolf, 
 or, mayhap, now and then a herd of antelopi or jumping deer to enliven 
 ♦ he vast expanse of waste. At the statiors of importance the scene will 
 be animated by the presence of the red-coated mounted policeman, or 
 the red aborigine, both in full war paint, mingling with a motley gather- 
 ing of the few inhabitants oi" the place. The railway wiped out the 
 buffalo that once roamed at large over these plains, and replaced them 
 by the sleek looking cattle seo^ grazing along the route, as the train tra- 
 verses the grass region of Alberta. At Glichen, the natural gas fountain 
 claims a passing ir>tice. Here the foot-hills of the Rockies are first 
 discerned looming up on the western horizon like huge banks o' clouds. 
 The important town of Calgary occupies a picturesque situation on the 
 south bank of the Bow River, and is notable as the chief town of the 
 the great cattle country. To the west rises the apparently impenetrable 
 wall of the Rocky Mountains, forming a fittinir shore line to the vast sea 
 of prairie. 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 11 
 
 journey is 
 picturesque 
 Arthur and 
 Ijake of the 
 (after H. R. 
 ion Genera] 
 n, 200 voy- 
 ;uns, provi- 
 were trans - 
 8 extending 
 ippression of 
 )edition was 
 reaching its 
 iree months 
 i's last effort 
 of Winnipeg 
 , were placed 
 t a contrast ! 
 
 prairies may 
 ong the rail- 
 ing daylight. 
 3s will beas- 
 ble hamlet of 
 ) passed dur- 
 
 "800 miles 
 A mono- 
 ise of ocean 
 3tal absence 
 prairie wolf, 
 ir to enliven 
 le scene will 
 )liceman, or 
 itley gather- 
 iped out the 
 :)]aced them 
 le train tra- 
 gas fountain 
 ies are first 
 3 o' clouds, 
 ation on the 
 
 town of the 
 mpenetrable 
 the vast sea 
 
 From Calgary the railway climes up the incline of the valley of the 
 Bow, keeping closely to its banks while it slowly ascends the eighty miles 
 required to reach the highest altitude of this great continental line of 
 railway on the summit of the Rockies. The pondemus engines in use on 
 the mountain sections are specially constructed for this particular service. 
 The monster arrives puffing and panting laboriously at Banff, where 
 breathing time to engine and passengers are permitted. Banff is famed 
 for its medicmal sulphur hot springs and palatial hotel, the 
 Canadian National Park, and its anthracite coal mines now being rapidly 
 developed. The National Park is a Government undertaking, and walks 
 and drives have been constructed amidst the surroundings of wild roman- 
 tic beauty. Mountains of 6,000 feet altitude tower above the spectator, 
 Banff will be worth a visit. Good trout fishing can be had in the neigh- 
 borhood. 
 
 The tourist is now nearing the summit of the First range of the 
 Rockies proper,from which the railway descends by steep gradients to the 
 Columbia River, and thence by the valley of Beaver Creek ascends the 
 Selkirks or Second range and through the Rodgers Pass the line plunges 
 again down to the valley ©f the Columbia, and, crossing it for the second 
 time, ascends the Third or Gold Range, finally penetrating the Cascade, 
 or Coast Range, by the valley of the Fraser to the Pacific. The voyage 
 of 500 miles across the " Sea of Mountains" now lies before the tourist. 
 
 The few passing remarks given to the " Great Lone Land," although 
 necessary, are not, properly speaking, within the province of the task 
 here undertaken. The Canadian Pacific Railway Company issues a guide 
 book, which fully dilates on the country traversed by its line, which may 
 be obtained on application to the London and other ageuci* s throughout 
 the United Kingdom or on board the train. 
 
 I 
 
 THE SEA OF MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Near Laggan, as the little stption on " The Summit " is called, lies 
 the boundary line between the Province of British Columbia and the 
 Northwest Territories. Here the waters divide. A small lake, with no 
 visible inlet or outlet, acts as the pivot on which the watershed balance 
 may be said to turn between the waters of the Pacific and the Atlantic ; 
 the waters flowing east, emptying by the Saskatchewan River, Lake Win- 
 nipeg and Nelson River into Hudson's Bay, and those flowing west 
 by the Columbia River into the Pacific. The summit has nw altitude 
 above sea level of 5,000 feet, hile the neighboring towering peaks in 
 view, IMount Stephen and the Cathedral have an ascertained altitude of 
 10,525 and 10,284 feet respectively. 
 
w 
 
 h I 
 
 12 . tourists' pictorial guide. 
 
 The Rev. W. Spotswood Green, during recent exploration in the 
 Alpine iSjgions of the Rockies, where ho was accompanied by the Rev. H. 
 Swanzy, and which was graphically described by him before the Royal 
 Geographical Society, represents Mount Lefroy (11,058 feet) near Lag- 
 gan, as the highest measured peak in British Territory. At the base of 
 this peak a beautiful lake was discovered, to which the name " Lake 
 Louise " was given. It is within easy distance fr. m Laggan, and forms 
 " the most perfect gem of Alpine scenery as it is possible to imagine." 
 
 The tourist standing < n the railway track is, as it were, midway 
 between the sea level and the highest peaks. The following table gives 
 the actual ascertained altitude of the principal peaks along the route of 
 railway : — 
 
 Above Above 
 Mountans. Named Aftor. Sea the 
 
 Level. C.P.R. 
 Mount Stephen — Sir Geo. Soephen, Bart., a Director of 
 
 the C. P. R 10,525 6,474 
 
 Cathedral Mountain— 10,284 5,966 
 
 Mount Dennis— The late Surveyor-General of Canada. , 7,791 3.920 
 
 Mount Field— C. P. R. Engineer 8,554 4,505 
 
 Mount Russell— Late Assistant Surveyor-General 9,321 5,372 
 
 Mount Carnarvon — Lord Canarvon, Colonial Secretary. 8,876 4,827 
 
 Mount Macdonald— Sir John A. Macdonald, Conserva- 
 tive K'remier of Canada, the great conceptor of the 
 C.P.R 9,440 5,558 
 
 Mount Tupper — Sir Chas. Tupper, High Commissioner 
 
 to London 9,063 4,983 
 
 Mount Sir Donald— Sir D. A. Smith, Hon. H. B. Co., 
 
 leading Directot C. P. R 10,645 6,980 
 
 Mount Bonny — (Explored by Rev. S. Green) Mr. Bonr y, 
 
 African Traveler and Explorer 10,622 6,057 
 
 Ross Peak— A Trader H. B. Co., author an>l explor. r. . . 7,616 3,651 
 
 Mount Beubie- Sir M. B. Begbie, Lord Chief Justice of 
 
 British Columbia 9,006 7,339 
 
 Mount CARTiER-Sir Gen. Cartier, one of the fathers of 
 
 Caaadiar Confederation 8,576 6.909 
 
 Mount McPherson— The late Sir David McPherson, 
 
 Minister of the Interior 8,057 6,390 
 
 Mount McKenzie — Hon. Alex. McK^^nzie, Liberal Pre- 
 mier of Camda 7,563 5,396 
 
 Mount Tilley — Sir Leonard Tilley, member of Sir John 
 
 A. Macdonald's Cabinet and Minister of Railways .. , 7,776 6,109 
 
m in the 
 
 
 e Rev. H. 
 
 
 ihe Royal 
 near Lag- 
 .he base of 
 
 
 ne " Lake 
 
 
 md forma 
 
 
 agine." 
 
 
 5, midway 
 :able gives 
 e route of 
 
 
 )ve Above 
 a the 
 vel. C.P.R. 
 
 
 525 6,474 
 
 
 284 5,966 
 
 
 791 3.920 
 
 
 554 4,505 
 
 
 321 5,372 
 
 
 876 4,827 
 
 
 440 5,558 
 
 
 063 4,983 
 
 
 645 6,980 
 
 
 622 6,057 
 
 
 616 3,651 
 
 
 006 7,339 
 
 
 576 6.909 
 
 
 057 6,390 
 
 
 563 5,396 
 
 
 776 6,109 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 TOURIST-s' PICTORtAL OUIDE. 
 
 13 
 
 In vain may be lo ked for a " Mount Blake," in recognition of the 
 Canadian statesman, who in a burst of pjlitical sarcasm, coined the term 
 "Sea of Mountains." 
 
 Before entering on the voyage of descent to the coas', a short syn- 
 opsis of the history, topography and climate of British Columbia will be 
 of interest t > the tourist. 
 
 HISTORY. 
 
 In the year 1520, Ferdinand Magalhaens, termed by us Magellan, a 
 native of Portugal, in the service of the Kinsr of Casfcile, was sent by 
 Cardinal Xinienes on a v yage of discovery. Coasting the shores of 
 South America he me'ged int • the Southern Ocean, sailing onward many 
 weeks in the same direction, wiihout the sight of land, that ocean seemed 
 to grow va3ter every day. So calm and free from storms did he find its 
 waters, that he gave it the appellation ot Pacific. Afterwards the Span- 
 iards, who had crossed the Isthmus of Danan, claimed and took posses- 
 sion of the Pacific, and extended their conquests along its tastern sliores 
 to Peru and Chili on the caie side and California on the other ; but as 
 their greatness as a nation declined, th ir ardour for discovery cooled. 
 Thus geographers perceived that within the bounds of the Pacific immense 
 spaces yet remained unknown. Spain became indolent, and on the 
 British devolved the cost, the tfiil, the danger ; and to Britain the glory 
 belongs. 
 
 In 1767 ^. British ship Swallow, under command of Capt, Cateret, 
 discovered the Queen Charlotte Islands. Capt. '((ok, the great circum- 
 navigator, in his third voyage round the world in search of the north-west 
 passage, anchored some weeks at Nootka Sound, on the west coast of 
 Vancouver Island, and in 1778 carried his discoveries along the coast 
 beyond Behring Sea until within the Polar Circle. On the death of 
 Cook the foil I wing y ar, the voyage of exploration was continued along 
 the coast to Alaska by his successor in command, Capt. Clarke, who, in 
 turn, died a martyr to duty. In 1789 Captain Vancouver explored the 
 waters of the Gulf of Georgia and completed the coast survey of the 
 Island which bears his name, and the adjacent mainland, and thus, in 
 prophetic language, describes the future of the wild scenes of his explor- 
 ations; — " To describe tlie beauties of this region will, on some future 
 occasion, be a grateful task to the pen of the skilltul panegyrist. The 
 serenity of the climate, the innumerable pleasing landscapes, and the 
 abundant fertility that nature puts forth, require to b^ enriched by the 
 industry of man, with villages, mansions, cottages and other buildings to 
 render it the most lovely country that can be imagined, whilst the labor 
 
14 
 
 tourists' pictorial guide. 
 
 '; 
 
 i 
 
 ■h 
 
 of the inhabitants would be amply rewarded in the bounties which na- 
 ture seems ready to bestow on cultivation." 
 
 Spain made claims to the whole coast by right of discovery by a 
 mythical voyager called Juan de Fuca at the close of the sixteenth cen- 
 tury, whose name is sti'l borne by the straits separating Vancouver Island 
 from the mainland to die south. 
 
 In the declining years of the last century, Alexander McKenzie, an 
 employee of the Nor'-West Fur Co., after exploring the McKeiizie River 
 basin to the Arctic Ocean, crossed the Rockies by way of Peace River, 
 and reached the coast. Subsequently another fur trader discovered and 
 gave his name to the Fraser River. 
 
 The Astiir Fur Co., of New York, established fur trading posts on 
 the Columbia River in the early part of the present century. The amal- 
 gamated fur companies — Hudson's Bay and Nor'-West Co. 's — established 
 tradin'g posts along the coasts, securing for the Czar of Russia the privi- 
 lege of the Alaaka fur trade on condition of supplying the Russian 
 settlers there with flour and other provisions. A trading post 
 and farm were accordingly establishej in 1844 on Vancouver Island, to 
 which was given the name of Victoria, in honor of Her Majesty the 
 Queen. Vancouver Island was established as a Crown Culony in 1849, 
 and in 1857 the Crown Colony of British Columb'a, on the Mainland, 
 with, New Westminster as the capital, was also established. In 1858 the 
 two colonies were incorporated as the Colony of British Columbia, with 
 the City of V^ictoria as the Capital. The Colony in 1871 joined the fed- 
 eration of the Dominion of Canada, thus completing the chain of British 
 Provinces into one grand whole, stretching from the Atlantic to the 
 Pacific. 
 
 The discovery of gold in 1857 caused an influx of miners and their 
 followers from California. The simple trading of Victoria became, at a 
 bound, a city of 30,000 inhabitants. The gold fever suddenly collapsed, 
 and the country became again almost deserted, to be revived again in 
 1861. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE. 
 
 The Province of British Columbia lies north of the 49bh degree of 
 latitude ; is some 700 miles long by about 500 miles broad, and contains 
 an estimated area of 340,000 square miles. It embraces the mountain- 
 ous region to the west of the prairies, constituted of a number of ranges 
 running almost parallel to each other from north to south, and with the 
 exception of the Coast range, tapering iff into hills towards the Arctic 
 coast. The surface of the country between the Rocky mountains and 
 
TOUUISTS' PICTORIAL OUIDE. 
 
 ta 
 
 ?nzie, an 
 
 the coast may be divided into two raouncainous districts on either side of 
 ft high plateau country, which extends, averaging in width about 100 
 miles, up the interior of the Province. The topography of a country in- 
 fluences the climate in a great measure. Thus in British Columbia will 
 be found the extremes of the western prairie couur>ry in the higher 
 eastern portion, decreasing in range of temperature till a climate un- 
 rivalled in the wjrld prevails ou the coast and adjacent islands. 
 
 To the influence of Knro Siwo, or Japanese current, must |be at- 
 tributed so desirable a benefit. From this warm current — the Gulf 
 Stream of the North Pacific, which fluwiug n rth and by east from the 
 coast of Japan, curving down along the Pacific coast line of A.merica, 
 springs an almost constant current of warm air landward. When ver 
 it penetrates there winter ceases, and delightful sjiriiig or summer reigns 
 supreme — frost and drought being almost unknown. Sometimes iui 
 pelled by atmospheric pressure, this warm current of air pvsscs up 'he 
 valleys of the intervening mou itains to the prairies beyond, even to Man- 
 itoba, still retaining a portion of its warmth. This soft, balmy bretzo is 
 gladly welcomed, and a "Chinook" as it is termed, in mid-winter 
 changes, as if by magic, the climatic aspect of affairs in that region of 
 rigorous frc.st. 
 
 The climate of the island oi Vancouver, which stretches along the 
 covstofthe Mainland for 300 miles, resembles v^ rv much that ot the 
 Channel Islands. Although " the grass giows green" and many shrubs 
 and fruit trees leaf and blossom during what is 'ermed winter, spring 
 may be said to fairly commence etrly in March. In April with perpetual 
 sunshine and showers, the fresh bloom of vegetation and variegated 
 flowers is simply delightful. May and June with ever prevalent sun- 
 shine, a'ld fragrant balmy breezes, their wealth of roses and h) ley- 
 suckles, and refreshing showers, concede to them the palm for every- 
 thing that is glorious or desirable in the enjoynnnt of life. July a id 
 August are sup ib in their wealth or ripening fruit, heavenly days and 
 nights cooled by the refreshing bre8Z3. S 'pteaiber, calm and serene, 
 the bright sunshine now and then clouded by welcomed rain, when the 
 earth again assumes it garb of spring. October, not chilly, but warm ; 
 *' the sere and yellow leaf " begins to bestr-jw the earth, and towards the 
 end the rainy season may be said t© commence. A little hoar frost may 
 be now looked for. The face of Nature assumes a coat of verdure 
 rivalling that of the Emerald Isle. Many shrubs and plants burst forth 
 into leaf and blossom, strawberries and raspberries (the second crop) 
 are no rarity, even in November. The days are bright and warm, no\T 
 and then the crmtinuous sunshine is darkened by a downpour of rain, 
 which soon clears off, and so on up to Christmas. January 
 generally opens mild, and the ever prevailing sunshine dispels 
 the thought of winter; wall flowers, primroses and daisies gladden 
 
16 
 
 TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDBl. 
 
 
 !| 
 
 the eye. In February, and only in February, what the 
 British Columbians term "severe weather" may be expected. 
 On the Island of Vancouver and the shores of the Mainland, 
 snow and electric disturbances are almost unknown. The h^at in summer 
 is nothing excessive, about 80 degrees, the evenings are cool and bracing. 
 The rain-fall and cold in winter, and the heat and drought, on the Main- 
 land, are a little in excess of that of the Island of Vancouver and 
 adjacent islands. The average rai'i-fall on the latter, at Victoria, is 
 about twenty-six inches, at New Westminster, on the Mainland, there 
 is about fifty-eight inches, and in the interior plateau of the interior 
 about ten inches during the year. The greater portion of the rain-fall 
 occurs during the winter months. The summer hevt at Victoria is tem- 
 pered by the cool breexe invariably blowing from the snow-covered range 
 of the Olympian mountaii s across the Straits of Fuca, and the mercury 
 has never been known to register "zero" irj winter. The Marquis of 
 Lome, K. T., speaking of Victoria, in December, 1882, said: "No 
 words can be too strong to express the charm of this delightful land, 
 where the climate, softer and more constant than that of the south of 
 England, ensures at all times of the year a full enjoyment of the wonder- 
 ful loveliness of nature around you." There is a great diversity of 
 climate in British Columbia, and even on the Island o\ Vancouver. On 
 the west shores of that Island the effects of the Japanese current is more 
 marked on climate, plants and vegetation; there is more rain during the 
 summer and less during the winter than on the east of the ridge of 
 mountains which run down its centre. At Alberni, on tha west, 
 fruit and vegetiblea are wonders of luxuriance, and excel in excellence 
 and flavor. What are mere shrubs on the east attain the dignity of trees 
 on the west coast. The train coming into Victoria from Nanaimo, 76 
 miles north, will be often sprinkled with snow, although summer weather 
 may be prevading at the former. 
 
 The climate of the whole will be round to be very invigorating and 
 sulubrious, colder in the northern interior than in the south, yet along 
 the coast and adjacent islands the same delightful, equable range of tem- 
 perature exists, with very little variation, as that in the Island of Van- 
 couver. There is a choice of climates of heat and cold, humidity and 
 mildness. 
 
 ACROSS " THE SEA OF MOUNTAINS." 
 
 The most magnificent portion of the "Sea of Mountains, ' from 
 Langan to Kamloijps, a distance of 300 miles, will be traversed during 
 daylight. 
 
 The railway descent of the western slope of the First range of the 
 Rocky Mountains is very rapid. A splendid view of the passing panor- 
 
 niou 
 
 note 
 
 this 
 
 inte 
 
 ac' 
 
 kno 
 
 trib 
 
 111, at I 
 
 Scrl) 
 
 h<it( 
 
 (1, 
 
 m 
 
fOITRiSTS* PICTORlAt OUlI)^. 
 
 17 
 
 ama of "mountain and ot flood" may be obtained, wera tho tourist per- 
 mitted to ride in front of the engine on the "cow-catcher," that from the 
 platform of the rear car is, h<jwover, more extensive than thi view from 
 the car window. Maybe tho nerves of the touris' will bo put to tin test 
 as he gazes in amazement and wonder at the quickly passing, awe inspir- 
 hig ste p mountain side, crag, gorge and canyon, the boiling torrent 
 running a rac ', as it were, with the speeding train, the snake-like curva- 
 tures skirting the brow of almost fathomless abysses, and the screw-like 
 twistinga of the line; the headlong downward speed, the sudden grinding, 
 jolting motion, as the powerful brakes are applied. No cause for fear : 
 every precaution as yet devised by the ingenuity of man is taken by the 
 railway compiny for the safety of the train and its living freight. The 
 safety of travel and total absence of accidents on the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway has become proverbial An opening in the surrounding wall of 
 ii.ountains through which the train glides down to the valley of the ri or 
 and the celebrated "Kicking Horse" detile is passed. Here, at the 
 station of Field, the tourist finds himself alongside the giant "Mount 
 Stephen" rearing its head aloft 8,000 feet above the track. "Mount 
 Stephen House," built in the style of the Swiss chalet, to bo in keeping 
 with the Alpine surroundings, one of several of the kind erected by the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway Company at various points of interest along 
 the route for the especial convenience of tourists. The accommodations 
 ard hrst-class in every respect, and tne charges moderate. (See Hotels.) 
 
 Crossing the Columbia, the largest stream on the Pacific Slope of 
 America, at Donald, thfe railway follows the course of that river for some 
 distance; then over the rocky valley of the Beaver that separates the 
 Rocky Mountains, from the Second, or Selkirk range. The Selkirks are 
 part of the Rocky Mountain formation, and virtually composes part of 
 the back bone of the continent. The train slowly creeps up the forest- 
 clad sides of the S Ikirks through the "Rodgei's Pass." The dense, dark 
 green f(jrests of the giant Douglas Pine and Cedar in the valleys and on 
 mountain sides appear in that luxuriance for which the Selkirks are 
 noted. lunum rable snowy peaks look down upon the passing train — 
 this is region of glaciers which gathered from the snows of ages into an 
 interceptible moving mass of ice, are many hundred feet in depth, and 
 ac' nowledged by all travellers to be the most extensive glacier region 
 known. From the waters of the glaciei's springs the source of the 
 tribjlent IllecillewHet. "Tiie Glacier House"— another chalet, where 
 many tourists remain for days enraptured with the wild surrounding 
 scenery. Nothing can surpass the view observable from this mountain 
 hotel on the breezv summit of the Selkirks. The huge smooth sides of 
 "Mount Sir Donald" and "Mount. Bonny," springing from the glacier 
 bed, with other giant comrades spread oul in an Alpine mountain wave 
 of vast extent — tho bewildering multitude of stupendous rocks, their 
 
m^ 
 
 18 
 
 TOURISTS PfCTORIAL OUIDE. 
 
 snowy peaks assumintj fantastic forms, varied and many huod— the dark 
 green density of the forest — the voices of roiring floods, foaming? catar- 
 acts and bounding cascades tumbling down and sweeping from the disem- 
 bowled mountains the virgin gold; the superb summer climate, the clear 
 exhilerating air, calculated to renew the strength of mind and body, the 
 eye in reverential awe, roves over the immensity of the varied landscape 
 of this western Tyrol. 'Tis, indeed, a land of wonder. 
 
 Leaving the glacier regions, the train speeds on. crossing the Gold 
 and Coast ranges through inconceivable difllcultius, which have become so 
 many triumphs of engineering skill. 
 
 The railways descends the western slope of the Selkirks following 
 the course of the Illecillewaet. During cons ruction, at the base of 
 "Ross Peak," was encountered the greatest obstacle to the progress of 
 the hne. Here a sudden precipitous clitf for a time defif^d the art of man 
 — bridging was out of the question; so a series of lofty trestle work was 
 decided on, and what is known as "tho Loop" the result. It tries the 
 nerves of the strongest when sliding down, as it were, this six miles of 
 cork-screw railway required to cross the yawning gulf of tivo miles and a 
 half. Here also is the Albert Canyon, 300 hundred feet deep from the 
 railway and about 30 feet wide at the top, at the bottom of vvhich tlie 
 confined waters of the river rushes and roars in boiling fury till it reach s 
 what is called "the gate," through which they e3Crtpe with redoubled 
 maddened energy. An opening! and the train leaves the mountain 
 shade, seeking the valley of the Columbia for the las*", time, and the 
 Second mountain wave lies in the wake of the train. 
 
 Revelstoke occupies a pretty situation in the open at the second 
 railway crossing of the Columbia river, and is the proposed junction of 
 the contemplated branch line of railway to the south, to open up 
 the rich, beautifully romantic Kootenay district, which at present is 
 almost inaccessible. An endeavor is mad 3 to open up communicatitni to 
 the rich mines and fertile vales of Kootenay Lake by river steamers, 
 etc. When the railway is completed, this Killarney of the west will 
 form one of the chief attractions to the tourist and capitalist. 
 
 The shades of evening fall apacf, the retreating suns lights up the 
 mountain tops into flames of goH, as the train rushes through the Eagle 
 P.*S8 on the shores of the fairy Shuswap Lakes, beautiful in everything 
 save in name. To the south of these Lakes lie the fertile districts of 
 Okanagan and Spallumcheen (British Columbia "bangs Banagher" for 
 euphonious names of places), to which a branch line of railway is now 
 under course of construction, opening up another delightful locality rich 
 in mines, soil, romantic scenery, and every good gift in the power of kind 
 nature to bestow. - ■ 
 
tftl'RlHTH PICTORIAL OUinii. 
 
 Id 
 
 Leaving the shores of the Shuawivp Lakes, the course of the railway 
 follows the valley of the 8outli 'Ihoinpsou river to Kaiuloops, a fast 
 growing, tiiriving town, sitimteil on the higli plateau of the interior be- 
 tween the (Jold and Cascade ranges, at the junction of the north and 
 south branclu's of the riv(M-, to which further reference will be made 
 hereafter (see Kandoops). The remainder of the journey by rail to the 
 coast lies ov. r the Cascade or Coast ranges by the valley of the Fraser 
 river. 
 
 A*- Kandoops, settlement may be said toconimenco along the Pacific 
 Slope ro\ite of the railway. Night enfolds the country in darkness, and 
 no doubt the day's journey has furnished the observant tourist with food 
 for meditation, and he vill by this time be competent to form an opiniim 
 as to the beauty and grandeur of the 300 miles of mountain just com- 
 pleted. Lonesome and desolate seemed the awe inspiring magnitude of 
 Nature, spread immense in wildest form along that 300 miles of mountain 
 grandeur. Rich in scenic romantic beauty, and richer yet, beyond com- 
 pare, in the wealth of undeveloped resources (»f mine nn 1 for> st in its 
 unexplored valleys, only awaiting the magic touch of capital and enter- 
 prise to awaken and call into life and activity industries innumerable. A 
 grand heritage, certainly, and one that should not be willingly slighted 
 or slurred over by those on the outlook for sure, sound investments. 
 
 Two hundred and fifty miles more and the fc rminus will bo reache 
 The railway passes through a country exhibiting the same rugged moun- 
 tain features in a m )dified. form, possessing a full share of excitement 
 and interest. Folllowing the maddening headlong course of the Thomp- 
 son, as it rushes and boils through the yaw?iing chasms beneath, crossing 
 tha' river at Lytton, about daylight, the train enters the renowned canyon 
 of the Fraser, so graphically described by Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle 
 in the "Nor'- West Passage by Land," playing, as it were, at bide and 
 seek, in and out those chambers of horror — the four tunnels, over lofty 
 trestle and viaducts, along the verge of dizzy clifis, so as to escape from 
 the terrible canyon; bursting at length, in the flush of early morn, into 
 the open at the North Bend. Here will be found another haven of rest 
 for the tourist — "The Fraser Canyon House." 
 
 The Thompson river on reaching Lytton plunges into the Fraser, 
 lending all its force and pov/er in forcing a passage through the deep 
 g'^rges until the united waters reach Yale, where, as if exhausted by 
 previous fury, the angry stream assumes some degree of quietude. 
 
 At the head of the Fraser river navigation, and at the mouth 
 of the Fraser canyon, nestles the picturesque, historic town of 
 Yale. This little town played a very important part during the golden 
 era of British Coiuiubia. From here starts the world renowned Cariboo 
 
w 
 
 i 
 
 20 
 
 TOUBI8T8 I'UrrORIAL (JUIDE, 
 
 road, built under the supervisiun of the Koyal Eiif^ineers in 1802, to the 
 gold fields of Cariboo, a distance of tome throe hundred miles. It stands 
 to-day as much a monument of road making engineering as the famous 
 Roman roads of Britain. 
 
 RETROSPECTIVE. 
 
 
 While enjoying the dry bracing air of early forenoon, experiencing a 
 relief from the serictus, awe-inspiring journey just completed, passing 
 from the religious twilight of overhanging mountains out into the open 
 day — the bright sun shining down — observe that threid-like streak, re- 
 sembling a mountain goat path, winding along the hill sides and preci- 
 pices, stretching in its si luous course towards the golden land of Cariboo. 
 Up the course of that road the early golil-seeker crawled, borne down 
 with his load of blankets, provisions and rude itnplementa of mining, 
 tearing himself along through briar and thorn, bush and brake, toiling 
 up mountain steeps, and down break neck precipices, along the brink of 
 dizzy cliffs and deep ravines, through untrodden forests and enduring 
 every conceivable misery, difficulty and trial, hardship and Drivati(»n 
 known to miserable man for a distance of 300 miles to the El Dorado of 
 his dreams ! Returning, after a while, experiencing the same misery, 
 as heavily laden as he went up with the "sordid dross" that he ventured 
 life and limb, health and Comfort to secure. Stretch the imagination a 
 little yet and think that down that "trail" poured two train loads of 
 solid gold ! It still pours down in a lessened volume. Cariboo is as rich 
 as ever — distance tells asrainst its productiveness, Three hundred miles 
 of mountain road " is a hard road to travel." Thfl auriferous deposits of 
 the creeks have "panned out " the last " color," but there remains the 
 imprisoned wealth in the rich ores of its mountains, that can only be ex- 
 tracted by means of capital. Railways require to be built, crushers and 
 smelters and other appliances are necessary to release the golden stream 
 from its obstructions, when it will again pour down in increased volume. 
 The old placer "mining" has pa.ssed and go le as far as the Fraser 
 river valley is concerned, yet the traveller will observe along the banks, as 
 he whirls past, the ever prevalent Celestial patiently workin:^the "played 
 out " claims, that in early days rendered up their millions, satisfied with 
 the returns, else the wily "John " would not be wasting his time. What 
 a motley crowd travelled along that road in the early sixties i Might 
 was right, and the lawlessness of California reigned supreme, till the 
 present Lord Chief Justice, Sir Matthew Baillie Begbie, accompanied by 
 a few constables as representing British law and oii r, arrived upon the 
 scene, and changed as if by magic, the entire aspect of affairs. " Boys," 
 Bald his Lordship to the miners, "if there's shooting in Cariboo, there'll 
 
TOT'lUSTS PICTORIAL OriPK. 
 
 be hanging." FU'salt : there was no shctotinp, consequently no hanging. 
 The Btern bearing of the representuhves of the hiw beinj^ autHcient to cow 
 the reckless, timing' ruth ais who ((uickly freed Cariboo and the Coh)ny of 
 their undesirable |)re8ejice, and soiii^ht their former hainits in "the hvnd 
 of the free," disgusted at what they termed British tyrat)cy. 
 
 THK LAST IHNimKI) MILES. 
 
 novr lies before tiie tourist, and the good fairy is about to raise the 
 curtain for the grand trauBformation scene of the piece. Bidding idieu 
 to the solenmity and silence < f 500 miles <f mountain, gloom snd ser ous- 
 ness are left behind. The tourist is bound for Victoria tj- boftuciful, 
 the city of sunshine and of roses, romantic scenery and sylvaa glades. 
 It must be borne in mind that the season is at its height, and desirable 
 hotel accommodation lay bo scarce. As yet there are only four hotels, 
 which stand in order of precedence us to excellence as hero given : The 
 Driard, first-class in every resjiect ; the Clarence and the Oriental, 
 cheaper rates, good exceptional accommodation and cuisine ; the Occi- 
 de- tal, a superior cheap family hotel. These hotels are centrally situated 
 in the business portion of the city. There are besides, several private 
 lx»arding houses, f)f which the "Roccabella" and Mrs. Frank Flichards, Jr., 
 take the lead. (iood boarding and lodging may be obtained in private 
 h uses during the season. A telegram to any of the foregoing houses or 
 to the othce of this Guide, stating accommodation reciuired, will be 
 punctually attended to, so that on arrival at Victoria, inconvenience and 
 delay may be avoided. (For further particulars, see Hotels, Vict-ria). 
 
 The train, as if with more confidence, rushes along the steep banks 
 of the valley of the Fraser, passing Hope, a pretty little town on the 
 banks of that stream ; Westminslor Junction, Port Moody, on the shores 
 of Burrard Inlet, the first tide water of the Pacific touched by the rail- 
 w:-iy. Another five miles along the shores of the Inlet, and the journey 
 of three thousand miles, from ocean to ocean will bo completed. 
 
 The latter portion of the journey passes through a partially settled, 
 rough, heavily timbered country. The humidity of the climate induces 
 largegrowthof foresttrees— thewell-known Douglas pin' — Abies BoJiglasii, 
 attaining a height < f four hundred feet, and a diameter of from six to 
 ten feet. This tree was so named by its discoveri r, David Douglas, a native of 
 Scone, Scotland, (with whom it was a special favorite), who was sent out 
 to the Columbia by the Hudson's Bay Co. in 1824 as botanical collector 
 and expUirer. Douglas served an apprenticeship of seven years with the 
 trmlener of Scone Palace, and afterwards received employment in the 
 Botanic Garden at Glasgow, where, from being an humble employee, he 
 in a few years became the favorite student and companion of the cele- 
 bratetl botanist, Sir J. W. jHooker. Having fulfilled his mission as 
 
22 
 
 TOUKIftTS PICTORIAL (iUIDR. 
 
 explorer in the Far West, introduced this and many other trees, and 
 added above a thousand plants to the vocabulary of botanists ; he met 
 with an untimely and traa;ical death in the Sandwich Islands, by accident- 
 ally falling into a cattle trap, in 1833. Since his day the Douglas Pine 
 has been freely introduced throughout the British Isles and other coun- 
 tries. Some magnificent specimens are to be seen in the grounds of the 
 Earl of Stair, near Stranraer, and also in those of Scone Palace '^nd other 
 places, with a height of eighty feet and eight feet in circumfortvce at 
 base, grown from seed sent home by Douglas in 1827. The Abies Doiig- 
 lj,sii is of great value as well as of great beauty. It is prized above all 
 others for shipbuilding, especially masts and spars. The flag of the last 
 International Exhibitiim in London was I'aised upon a pole three hundred 
 and nine feet high, which had been brought from a group of Douglas 
 pines in British Columbia. Many of the annuals now common in your 
 gardens and of the trees and shrubs that are favorites in your 
 grounds in "Merrie England,'' claim the territory you are now passing 
 through as the cradle of their species and owe their introduction to David 
 Douglas. Cedar, aspen, hemlock, ash and other species attain surprisingly 
 large dimensions lil'.ewiso. Many pretty clearings will be seen along the 
 fertile valley of the Eraser, the orchards and gardens in their mid- 
 summer height of bloom. 
 
 
 
 ifi 
 
 
 ^^v^'^f-. 
 
 "Are you going to Victoria ?" may be the inquisitive query, should 
 the tourist enter into conversation with some casual way traveller, 
 " Umph ! well, they are a sleepy lot over there, anyhow. Ther3's no 
 atir in the place." The astonished tourist, thus taken aback, may Murt 
 out something about "beauty," "How"? queries the tormentor; "I 
 think you said 'beauty' — yaas, beauty enough, as fur as that goes, 
 mister, but ' beauty ' haint business, yer know. That there Victoria — 
 ' Sleepy Hollow ' 1 calls it — has ben a building thirty year an' odd, and 
 what is it, eh ? Chinese and Si washes ! (native Indians) there's beauty 
 
 fur you. So you're going to Victoria, well, I'm dazelled, theer." 
 
 He shakes his head, turns away with a In^k of withering contf^mpt, 
 mingled with pity ior your perverseness, looks out of the car window 
 muttering something about "town lots," "good investment," "there's 
 millions in it," as he complacently views, with a smile of satisfaction, the 
 stumps and clearings which become more frequent now you are ap- 
 proaching the "fair young Liverpool of the west," as some delight to 
 designate the growing center of "shipping, trade ond commerce, which a 
 few years ago had no existence, except in im^igination, and when the 
 giants of the forest hid beneath their shade the little lumbering hamlets 
 of Granville and Oastown, on the shores of Coal Harbor, where now 
 stands the wonder of the age — the flourishing terminal City of Van- 
 couver. 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 23 
 
 brees, and 
 J ; he met 
 ' accident- 
 aglas Pine 
 her coun- 
 [ids of the 
 '^nd other 
 "oi't-vce at 
 bies Dong- 
 
 above all 
 jf the last 
 ;e hundred 
 >i Douglas 
 on in your 
 (S in your 
 )w passing 
 111 to David 
 urprisingly 
 a along the 
 
 their mid- 
 
 ery, should 
 
 traveller, 
 
 Thera's no 
 
 A SEVENTY-FIVE MILE SAIL THROUGH THE 
 ISLANDS OF FAIRYLAND. 
 
 may 
 
 >lurt 
 
 lentor; " 1 
 
 that goes, 
 ! Victoria — 
 n' odd, and 
 jre's beauty 
 led, theer." 
 
 contempt, 
 car window 
 
 " "there's 
 sfaction, the 
 ^ou are ap- 
 e delight to 
 ce, which a 
 d when the 
 •ing hamlets 
 
 where now 
 !ity of Van- 
 
 There is now no time for delay. Vancouver will be visitnd hereafter. 
 The steamer is panting at tlie wharf, a few yard^ from the terminus, im- 
 patient to be off on the 75-mile voyage, through the countless islands of 
 western fairyland. The tourist lias got his luggage "checked," of course 
 no need to look after it, the company do that tor you — 'ti's even (ju board 
 the steamer before the owner. The obliging "cul'd gen'l'mn" of the 
 sleeper politely helps with the light ''luggage" from the luxurious 
 " Pullman," that has been a home for the past week. The tourist gives 
 a last fond look and wipes away- 
 
 the thoughtful, aolemr 
 countenance induced by constant coTitact with the mighty handiwork or 
 the Great Creator. Everything looks bright, sparkling and sunny, the 
 white-washed Indian village and the sawmills on the opposite shore of 
 the " Inlet," shine brighter and more dazzling, and the tourist is oa the 
 tip-toe of expectation ; a few steps and he is on board that beautiful 
 floating palace, the 
 
 • S. S. ISLANDER, 
 
 titted up with every possible luxurious convenience, every door, window 
 and panel a picture gallery; lighted by electricity, n good, swift sailer, 
 seaworthy and ably commanded. Built by the Elders' of Glasgow, 
 specially for the Canadian Pacitfo Navigition Co. in 1888, this vessel 
 arrived in Victoria in the latter part of that year, after a very quick and 
 successful voyage round "the Horn." American tourist parties often 
 charter the " Islander " during the season for a voyage along the coast of 
 the mainland and around Vancouver and Qneen Charlotte Islands, 
 besides, several advertised trips will be made, at stated periods, to enable 
 all visitors to view the beaucy and enjoy the pleasure of the fairy-like 
 scenery described by His Ei>:cellency the Marquis of Dufferin, K. P., ui 
 the following glowing terms: — "Such a spectacle as its coast line pre- 
 sents is not to be paralelled by any country in the world. Day after day 
 for a wbole week, in a vessel of nearly 2,000 tons, we threaded an intermin- 
 able labyrinth of watery lanes and reaches, that wound endlessly in and 
 out of a net, vork of islands, promontories and peninsulas, for thousands 
 of miles, unruffled by the slightest swell from the adjoining ocean and 
 presenting at every turn an ever-shifting combination of rock, verdure, 
 forest, glacier and snow-capped mountains of unrivalled grandeur and 
 beauty. When it is remembered that this wonderful system of naviga- 
 tion, equally well adapted to the largest line of battle-ship and the 
 frailest canoe, fringes the entire seaboard of the Province, and communi- 
 cates at points sometimes more than a hundred miles from the coast, with 
 ;t multitude of valleys stretching eastward into the interior, while at thQ 
 
pp 
 
 TOURISTS PIC'TOKIAL CUIDE. 
 
 fi I 
 
 \li 
 
 same time it is furnished with innumerable harbors on either hand, one 
 is lost in admiration at, the facilities for inter-communication which are 
 thus provided for the future inhabitants of this wonderful resion." 
 
 Perhaps the tourist may be in luck Hud have the pleasure of the pre- 
 sence on board of tlie courteous, enterprisins: commodore of the Canadian 
 Pacific Navigation Co.'s squadron. Commodore John Irving, as he paces 
 the deck, feels proud of his " Islander," and as a native islander proud 
 of the Island wither you are bound. The engine turns, and the noble 
 ship moves gently through the placid waters of the " Inlet " — pointing 
 her fi'ow towards the entrance of the first narrows, full steam is put on 
 as the vessel plows her way through English Bay, and passing Point 
 Grey, the Gulf of Georgia is entered, and the scenic beauty of seventy- 
 five miles of coast dawns and opens up to the vision of the expectant 
 tourist. To the west looms up the blue mountains of the Island of Va'i- 
 '^o'Tver, the smoke of steamers, or the white-winged ships plying to and 
 from the oal fields of Nanaimo — the Newcastle of the west. To ♦"he east 
 the low-lying fertile lands of the delta of the Fraser, witfi k j famed 
 Eddystone lighthouse denoting the mouth of the river, backed by the 
 snowy peaks of the Coas' range, shining ;ind gleaming in the warm sum- 
 mer's sun. Entering the Canal de Haro, a labyrinth of islands are 
 encountered, appearing at times to obstruct the passage, but the steamer 
 rounds in and out the rocky, wooded islets, keeping so close to their iron- 
 bound shores that a ship's biscuit may easily be pitehed on the rocks as 
 the vessel, without slackening its headlong speed, passes by. On through 
 cbr.nnels innumerable, with short open stretches of water every now and 
 then, towards the southern entrance to the Archipelago. 
 
 On the 6th Nov., 1889, at Kcelut Bluff, in the United States terri- 
 tory, half a league north of Plumper's Pass, at the entrance to the Haro 
 Channel, was the scene of what nearly proved to be a disastrous accident 
 to H. M. S. Amphion, one of tliB finest cruisers of the Pacific Squadron, 
 while conveying His Excellency the Governor-General, Lord Stanley of 
 Preston, and the Vic>-Regal party from Victoria to Vancouver. A dense 
 fog prevailed at the time, and Commander Hulton, having confidence in 
 his personal knowledge of these waters, left Victoria without a pilot. On 
 enterin-jf Plumper's Pass speed was reduced from ninety to thirty revolu- 
 tions by the navigating lieutenant on deck, but the indicator failed to 
 record the alteration in the engine-room ; the calmness of the water, and 
 the land being invisable owing to fog, prevented those on deck to notice 
 that speed had not been slacke led as ordered. The dangerous point was 
 hugored too closely, and the gallant ship ran, at full speed, on a sui.ken 
 reef in an oblique direction, ripping and tearing a large rent in her side 
 through the double sheathing below the arniair belt. The pumps were 
 set to work, the collision mattress hauled over the leak, and other pre- 
 cautions taken which managed to keep the invading waters under. All 
 
 in I 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL OlIDE. 
 
 25 
 
 speed was put on so as to gain the shelter of Esquimalt Harbor as soon 
 as possible. On the arrival there, with the assistance '>f the other war 
 ships in harbor and outside help, the Amphion was with difficulty kept 
 afloat till she was berthed in the dry-dock, twenty-six hours from the time 
 she struck. The discipline and promptitude displayed by the officers and 
 crew during these trying moments were highly commended by His Excel- 
 lency and party. A subsequent courtmartial, however, reprimanded the 
 gallant commander, and Navigatiug Lieutenant Barrett, the latter, in 
 addition, losing one year's seniority. 
 
 Coasting along the picturesque eastern shores of Vancouver Island, 
 Saanich Arm is passed. To the east, as Point Cadboro is approached, 
 will be seen the low-lyiug Island of San Juan, at one time a causje of 
 grave dispute, owing to the rival clain s of Great Britain and the United 
 States. The island had been farmed from "away back " by the Hudson's 
 Bay Co., and in all probability might have been yet, only f(»r a dispute 
 which arose between a settler and the Company about the ownership of a 
 pig. A joint occupation was maintained by the rivals till the cause was 
 decided by the late Emperor William of Germany in 1870, giving the 
 sovereignty to the United States. A pig lost to the Empire the fertile 
 Island of San Juan, and the stupidity of the salmon in the Culumbia 
 River, in not deigning to notice the tempting bait of an artificial fly 
 oflfered by the Admiral on the station here in '45, lost the large territory 
 extending north from the 4()th parallel, proving the truth of the old 
 adage that " Small beginnings result in great endings." 
 
 To the south-west loom up the extended range of the Olympians, 
 forming the northern shore of the State of Washington, whose snowy 
 tresses stream down their d-^ep, dark blue sides, which rise like a wall 
 from the shores of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, reflecting all the depths 
 and tones of shade and color which delight the artist in the declining rays 
 of the glorious summer's sun, now rapidly sinking to rest on the bosom of 
 the great ocean beyond the blue hills of Sooke, which form the western 
 bt)undary of the horizon. Glancing upward to the left, overtopping the 
 low-lyingr clouds of the receding shore line, will be observed " M(mnt 
 Baker," 11,000 above —the highest peak of the. coast range — looking 
 down, as it were, on the deck, its snowy face reflecting inroseat hues the 
 golden rays of the retreating orb of day. 
 
 Where the long walls of the Olympians stretch out into low hills, 
 seedling almost to touch the opposite sh re, denotes the entrance to 
 Pu:,'et S und, United States territory. There many flourishing cities and 
 towns — centres of industrial and commercial activity — have sprung up 
 during the past ten yiirs, and where the " boom" of the western real 
 estate man re-echoes along the shores of every headland, nook and pool, 
 crock iind gully of that inland water stretch, and by whose unremitting 
 
I « 
 
 tourists' pictorial fJUIDE. 
 
 I 
 
 I * 
 
 ■f 
 
 enterprise its seven hundred miles of indented coast has been covered 
 with one continuous succession of cities, towns and vilhiijes — on paper. 
 
 The settlements on Vancouver Island appear more frequent. Farm 
 steadings and residences peep out from amidst leafy bowers — green fields 
 and lowing cattle chewing the cud ot cimtentment after the evenmg 
 meal, give rural beauty and auiniati(»n to the scene. Along the coast, 
 passing the picturesque Telegraph Bvy, Cadboro Bay and Foul B ly — 
 rivalli g each other in sylvan grandeur, the extensive open stretch of 
 famed Beacf)n Hill comes into view. Crowds of Victoria's citizens are 
 enjoying the h( alth giving breeze along the grassy slopes, complacently 
 contemplating the glorious scene before them; watching the course of the 
 Islander as she disturbs the unruffled waters and sweeps round to the 
 entrance to the Harbor. On the elevation behind Beacon Hill, over- 
 t^»pping the wooded slopes beneath, where the tall flagstaff surmounts the 
 white battlements, is Castle C;irey, the oflicial seat of the Lieutenant- 
 Governor of the Province, and the dark gray pinnacles of the palatial 
 Dunimuir residence rear their heads far above other less pretentious 
 abodes of Victoria's merchant princes scattered along the embowered 
 slopes of intei /ening landscapes. 
 
 From the lighthouse at the entrance to the harbor, beyond the jut- 
 ting head land to the left, will ba observed the entrance to Esquimalt 
 Harbor — the Gibraltar oi the Pacific. The magnificent stretch of water 
 along the sheltered shore line «>f the Sooke Hills forms the Royal Roads, 
 where almost the navy of the Empire could safely ride at anchor. These 
 hills terminate in the Rice Rocks to the south-west, where the light- 
 hons(i now begins to signal 'f> the mariners the entrance to the straits 
 from the vast Pacific. Rounding the buoy nt the (luter wharf, the 
 *'l8lander" enters the rocky portals of Victoria's compact though small 
 harlx»r and the fair Queen of the woscern Adriatic, rising gently from 
 the rock-bound shores, is seen reposing smili-glv amidst unbrageous 
 bowers <>i trees, honey-suckle and roses. The shades of evening are 
 deepening as the "Islander" reaches the wharf. "Mount Df»uglas," like 
 an immense Redan, the fair city's s ntinel to the north, whose fir clad 
 sides and rock brown battlements reflect in richly gorgeous colors the 
 parting rays. Air, earth and ocean smile as the sua broadens by degress, 
 and now, as if weary, dips his orb, half immersed, and then a g(dden 
 curve, gives one bright glance and totally disappears, the prospect more 
 charniin'jT than ever in the golden halo as the creeping shadows of the 
 Socjk Hills gradually unfold the curtain of night. 
 
 If 
 
 I,'; t 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 THE ISLAND OP VANCOUVER. 
 
 27 
 
 PART II. 
 
 Glancins: at the mnp and judging from the countless islands en- 
 countered during the recent voyage the tourist may perhaps agree with 
 Ihe theory that in distant ages the Island of Vanc(»uver was, as it were, 
 rent and torn by some great convulsion of nature from the continenti.il 
 Coast range of mountains of which at one time it formed a part. 
 It is conjectured that in early ages owing to some violent 
 disruption that first the southern portion was torn from the continent — 
 that the Pacific tide waters and the current which swirls past 
 the rock-bound coast forced the waters by way of the Straits of Fuca on 
 the south and Queen Charlotte's Sound on the noith eventually cutting a 
 passage through the rocky ligature, which for subsequent ages held con- 
 nection with the parent mainlatid at Seymour Narrows, where at present 
 the waters rush at ebb and flow with considerable rapidity through the 
 rocky passages Geologists, however, attribute the severance to 
 an immense glacier which occupied the whole of the waters 
 from Queen Charlotte's Sound to the Straits of Fuca. Merely 
 separated at its northern extremity from the adjacent maudand 
 by the narrow channel of Discovery Passage. This island is 2(>0 miles 
 long from Cadboro Point on the sou'h-east to Cape Scott on the north- 
 west, and 80 miles wide, in the extreme, from Chatham Peak on the east 
 to Eastevan Point on the west. . Th^ surface of the island is ruL'gcd and 
 mountaineous, A range of mountains run down its crutr'' and the exten- 
 sive coast line is protected against the surrounding water by an almost 
 continuous range whose peaks attfiin an altitude of from 2,000 to 4,000 
 feet, while the highest of those of the centre ranges pierce the clouds at 
 7,000 feet above sea level. The innumerable adjacent wooded islands 
 intervening b.^twf-en Vancouver Island and tht^ mainland are in extent 
 from a mere solitary rock to those containing an area from 100 to 150 
 Square miles. Volcanic convulsions are still frequent in these latitud- s. 
 A slight shock of earthquake from s. to >. was felt at Victoria at 5:15 
 p.m., 1st February, 1890. Active volcanos existed within present mem- 
 ory on Qu^ en Charlotte's Islands —and extinct craters and lava beds are 
 numerous along th« coast of the northern mainland. Alaska boasts of 
 8 Vv^ral active volcanos at pre-ent, gradually dying out, breaking out 
 ifresh as th • line of disturbance receeds toward the pole. , 
 
 Vancouver Island affords the only safe and practiable harb(trs for 
 vessels of depp draught alo^ig the western coast of North America on 
 the immediate shores of the Pacific Ocean north of San Francisco. 
 Aleng the western coast of the island from Port San Juan, at the 
 entrance of the Straits of Fuca, to Cape Scoot, a distance of over 200 
 
m 
 
 28 
 
 TOUPvISTS Plf'TORTAL GUIDE. 
 
 
 \i¥ 
 
 miles, a series <)f inlets, sount^s, coves, harbors and bays, scattered at 
 from t n to fifteen miles apart, indent the coast; some of whose arms and 
 reach' s almost penetrate through the island to the waters on the east, 
 affording means of internal navij/ation in various directions. 
 
 The hills and mountain sides are clothed m dense masses of forfst, 
 mainly of the renowned Douglas pine, fir and cedar from which lumber 
 of high commercial value is manufactured. The woods and forests are in- 
 habited with many beasts of prey — pantliers, bears, wolves, etc., with 
 deer, grouse, pheasants, wild fowl and other game in profusion. Silvery 
 fairy lakes abound, and the crystal streams which team down innumerable 
 gorges, ravines and valleys are stocked with the choicest of the tiney tribe, 
 trout and salmon predominating. The numerous valleys, rich in aluvial 
 deposits when cleared of tlie forest growth, aided by a sup rb climate 
 produces a hundredfold and are particularly adapted for fruit growing. 
 The foreit glados are rich ni innumerable wild flowers— the eye at every 
 turn 'mbraces scenes of unsurpassable, romantic beauty scattered broad- 
 cast in all the negligence of a bountiful nature constituting Van- 
 couver Island the paradise <>f the sportsman, the tourist, artist, botanist 
 and the lover of nature. Gold, coal, iron, marble, onilding st(me and 
 timber abound throughout in abundance. The surrounding seas swarm 
 with food fish — turbot, salmon, herring, whitebait, cod (not the true 
 cod), sardines, shrimps, prawns, crabs, oysters (not of the "native" 
 flavor though), clams, etc., etc., etc. Fur and hair seals abound along 
 the coasts. AH of which offer to capital and industrial enterprise fields 
 ff»r investments unequalled and unexcelled. 
 
 Sir Chas. Dilke said that, as the British Isles are to Europe, so is 
 Vancouver Island to America. Therefore, the tourist will find in com- 
 parison a St. George Channel and North Sen in the Straits of Fuca and 
 the Gulf of Georgia, with Esquimalt as their Deptford and in geographi- 
 cal inancial, commercial and industrial point of view an embryo London 
 
 ^nus the fog and unhealthy east wind, in the mistress of this Western 
 
 B/n..,-.7n — ' ■ 
 
 THE CITY OF VICTORIA— 
 
 AND WHICH ALSO AS A TOURIST RESORT, 
 
 owing to its equable, invigorating climate and the matchless attracticms 
 of scienic beauty of its immediate surroundings is the most enjoyable on 
 the continent of America. 
 
 Hitherto but little known it is only lately that the fame of its beauty 
 and climate are being noised abroad, receiving the highest encominunes 
 from every visitor. The shady groves, sylvan slades, grassy parks and 
 pastoral landscapes whose ever green swards are bedecked with exquisite 
 natural flowers; the distant snow peaks of dark blue mountains pierc- 
 ing the sky; the dreamy sea boru huze veiling countless verdant isles 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL OLIDB. 
 
 20 
 
 ittered at 
 
 ) arms and 
 
 the east, 
 
 3 of f orf st, 
 ich lumber 
 •ests are in- 
 etc., with 
 n. Silvery 
 inunierable 
 tiney tribe, 
 h in aluvial 
 I rb climate 
 lit growing. 
 Bye at every 
 ber. d broad- 
 uting Van- 
 ist, botanist 
 y stone and 
 \eas swarm 
 lot the true 
 he "native" 
 .bound along 
 erprise fields 
 
 Europe, so is 
 
 find in com- 
 
 of Fuca and 
 
 in geographi- 
 
 bryo London 
 
 this Western 
 
 iss attractions 
 enjoyable on 
 
 ; of its beauty 
 encominunes 
 say parks and 
 vi'th exquisite 
 untains pierc- 
 verdant isles 
 
 whose shadows are reflected \\\ the surrounding glassy sea; meandering 
 brooks and bounding cascades; the embrageous^ bowers beneath giant 
 oaks hung with garlands of silvery pendent lichen; here, and nowhere 
 else, will the tourist find scenery more charming, varied a' d extensive. 
 The splendid drives and shady walks ccjnstructed through the laybrinths 
 of orchards and gardens overflowing with rich harvests of fruit and 
 flowers, where the rose and honeysuckle bloom ahnost continuously — 
 the sceinic grandeur of Beacon Hill boasting of the most magniflcent 
 and extensive marineandmountaio vie in existence— said by connoisseurs 
 to excel the Riviera — combines in leaving nothhig else to be desired by 
 the pleasure seeker or the lovir of nvture. 
 
 According to the explorer, David Douglas, the native Indian tribes 
 of this coast held sacred the groves of the stately Piiius Lambert Imia— 
 which is scarcely less famous than the i)ine tree called by his name. The 
 Druids of old had their sacred groves, so also had the ancient eastern 
 heathens. In all ages trees have been worshiped more or less. '; Lakes 
 and mountains, however glorious for a time, in time weary. Sylvan 
 scenery never palls. ' So wrote Lord Biiacontield. The sylvan scenery 
 .Hround Victoria, intersected by the best roads in America, never palls, 
 and to quote the noble passage from Cowper: 
 
 "Meditation here 
 Maj' tliink down houra tomomcl-s. Here the heart 
 May give a useful lesson to the head; 
 And Jearning wiser grow wilhoul its books." 
 
 Victoria possesses easy access to all points of interest by steam boat 
 and rail and is convenient to celebrated hunting and Ashing grounds; as 
 the oldest and most densely settled part ff the Province, it is enjoyable 
 in every feature, with clean, comfortable hotels at all places of resort 
 and on the leading roads ; where rural life in the midst of all the pomp 
 of savage grandeur, deer hunting, trout and salmon Ashing, wild duck, 
 grouse and pheasant shooting may be enjoyed by the tourist ""ithout the 
 inconvenience of surrendering the luxuries of a city hotel, or the com- 
 forts and refinements of civilization. Hotel accommodations especially 
 suited for tourists aj , being rapidly extended. The Canadian Western 
 Hotel on Government stieet, now in course of construction, aff'ording a 
 magnificent view of the harbor, witn all the latest improvements, will, 
 when completed, leave nothing wanting in the way of city hotel accom- 
 modation. 
 
 In the course of a few years Victoria will become the resort of the 
 period for the pleasure seeker, the 1 'Ver of nature, the artist and the 
 invalide. The few British tourists who have visited the ctmntry are loud 
 in their praise. Of the recent British visitors, Professor Bleckie, of 
 Edinboro' University, who has seen many lauds, in writing to one of the 
 leading periodicals, aaid.: 
 
m 
 
 tourists' pictorial OUIDH. 
 
 "1 hfive come to the deliberate conclusion that no one knows the 
 grandeur of the British Empire who has not traversed British C(jlumbia; 
 and if I desired to chani^e my abode and dwell where the breath of winter 
 is unknown I should certainly select the city of Victoria, the most 
 attractive spot I have seen, all things considered, since I landed on this 
 continent. Victoria is cooled by th ■: sea breeze and brightened by the 
 Pacitic waters that come rolling into many a bay and round many an 
 inlet and headland at the foot of wooded hills of every picturesque form 
 and seems to answer better to that sea loving task which is natural to our 
 islanders." 
 
 Stavely Hill, Esq., Q, C, M. P., Oxley Manor, Staflfordshire, 
 accompanied by Mrs. liill, visited Victoria in the latter part of October, 
 1889, said: 
 
 "We are more than astonished at the magnitude and grandeur of 
 the country, being to a certain extent prepared we did not expect to wit- 
 ness in the magnificent scenery around Vkj'^oria, the extent of the 
 mou' tain and sea view at Beacon Hill, the romantic beauty of "the 
 Gorge" and other scenes ; the flowers blooming at this time of the year, 
 and the delightful climate surpassing anything we have seen or ex- 
 perienced elsewhere. It is not the beauty aione but the great extent and 
 variety which enchants us. It must be perfectly delightful in summer 
 time, and when these attractions become more generally known at home 
 we feel confident that the place will be over run with visitors." 
 
 American tourists from all parts of the States, ever alive to the 
 necessity of seeking new scenes of adventure outside the conventional 
 trip tc Europe, throng to Victoria in hundreds every season. Each suc- 
 ceeding seas n exhibiting a volumous increase in the stream of sight- 
 seers. Alaska, with its glaciers and volcanoes, alive and extinct, are 
 attractions unique of their class, is becoming very popular. A line of 
 steamers ply from San Francisco on this route, which call at Victeria as 
 one of the chief attractions in the programme. Many of these tourists 
 are so enraptured with the beauty and delightful climate that they 
 remain over for considerable time, one all glad indeed for so charming a 
 break in the voyage to Alaska. 
 
 A FEW HINTS. 
 
 On landing the tourist intimating his hotel, secures a cab, or as it is 
 called hero " a hack " — a kind of overgrown hermaphrodite vehicle, be- 
 tween a London " growler " and a provincial " fly " — the fare " four bits. " 
 So that the tourist won't be bit, a timely hint will be of service. A " bit " 
 is the parlance of the Pacific Slope, is the initial medium of exchange in 
 Victoria, representing the sum of 12J cents or 6d. sterling — that is the 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL (iUIDt!. 
 
 31 
 
 " long bit;" the " short bit" is looked upon as a miserly ten cents, or Hd 
 sterling, and t)nly used by Canadians. Now the old-time British Ciduni- 
 bians do not consider themselves ' Canadians ' in any sense of the term — 
 a Provincial Act of Parliament in that case made and pmvided, s.iys so. 
 The tive-cent silver currency is looked upon with disdain, and reluct- 
 antly accepted, while common cupi^er possesses no intrinsic value what- 
 ever, except as curiosity for collections of rare coins. Recollect that 
 two " bits " represent 25 cents, or one shilling sterling; three "bits" 
 40 cents, or Is. 8d. ; four " bits " 50 cents, or 2 s. ; six " bits " 75 cents, 
 or 3s. Some of the hotels ccmvey passengers from the boat free -a bus 
 from the ' Clarence ' attends. Bef(»re leaving the landing, if the 
 " checks " for the baggage are given to the exj)re8sman in waiting, or to 
 the clerk at the hotel, on arrival there, the luggage will be carefully 
 looked after, and a charge of two '• bits " made for each piece. 
 
 A QUIET TALK ON VARIOUS SUBJEflS. 
 
 While enjoying the comforts and reposes (*f the hotel, free from the 
 incessant rattle of the railway train, to which the tourist has been accus- 
 tomed f(»r the past week or so, and the delightful summer's evening, 
 'twixt the lights. Opportunity offers to say a few words altout the city 
 of Victoria -its history, trade, commerce and manufacturing industries. 
 
 Victoria, besides being the Capital City of British Columbia, and 
 the seat of Government, is also the tinaucial and commercial centre of the 
 province, nnd contains a population of 2(5,000 inhabitants, 4,000 of which 
 are natives of the " Flowery Land," who are the hewers of wood and 
 drawers of water to the other twenty odd thousand. These Chinese be- 
 sides performing all the duties " Sairy Jane " and '''Arry," manufacture 
 opinm, smoke it, gamble Sunday and holiday, nighi, noon and morning; 
 peddle green grocery, have little or no regard for the Sabbath or the 
 sanitary laws of our civilization, and set other excellent examples of the 
 morality of an older civilization to the " Ghins " or " foieign devils," as 
 they style their fellow-citizens of Victoria. They import all their kind, 
 clothing and necessaries from China, and send bac); in return all their 
 earnings and money — e\en their bones, leaving nothing behind, like the 
 Manitoba grasshopper, but the foetid effluvia of their cctntaminating in- 
 fluence. Four hundred A'orking men and women of our own race and 
 blood, would represet a white population of at least 10,000 souls. And 
 were such the case, there would be a little more stir and bustle observable 
 on a tine summer's night than is just now apparent. "John" lives by 
 himself, keeps to himself, does not bother anyone and no one bothers 
 him. . . . . 
 
 HISTORY. 
 
 In 1844 the Hudson's Bay Company selected the present site of Vic- 
 toria for the establishment of their he idquarter trading post on the Pacific 
 Coaat, naming the harbor and fort VioiORii. in honor of Her Majesty the 
 
se 
 
 Tourists' pictorial oinnii. 
 
 Queen. The site was well chosen, being in every respect suitable for the 
 purpose of h large trading post, with a well shelterc'd anchorage for the 
 light craft of the company, and the adjacent Royal Roads and Eaquimalt 
 Harbor for their larger vessels, in which their tirst ship direct from 
 London to this port anchored in 1845. Farms were cleared and herds of 
 cattle introduced, and Victoria became the great depot for the whaling 
 fleet of the northern waters of the Pacific. The whaling industry declin- 
 ing in 1849 was succeeded by that extensive fur trade, for which it is at 
 present notable. In that year was established the Drown Colony of 
 Vancouver Island, The first Governor arrived at Victoria on the 10th 
 March, 1850. Not relishing the roughr.ess of bush life — there was no 
 Castle Carey then- or perhaps owing to the interference of the Hudson's 
 Bay Co.'s chief official, Governor Blanchard resigned the following April, 
 and was succeeded by Chief Factor (afterwards Sir James) Douglas, 
 Hudson's Bay Co. who retained office till his resignation in 1859. Pro- 
 gress was slow, owing, it is said, to the monopoly of lands a'ld govern- 
 ment in the hands of the Hudson's Bay C •, which ceased in 1856. Gold 
 was discovered in 1858, or more properly speaki-ig, became known to the 
 world outside the officials and servants of the Company, who, for reasons 
 easily understood, kept the knowledge to themselves, as they did the 
 explorations of Mackenzie and Lieuc. Hearne in the northern part of 
 Rupert's Land, which were first made known to the world of geographi- 
 cal science by the great Napoleon. When the French captured Fort 
 York in 1810 the archives were taken to Paris, and the journals of those 
 two celebrated explorers were, by the Emperor's order, forwarded to the 
 Royal Geographical Society, London, after having lain mouldering in the 
 office of the Company at Fort Yale for nearly liilf a century! In 1858 
 Courts of Justice wore established, with police and other officials to carry 
 on the government of the country. The inflax of miners, with the usual 
 accompaniment of sharks, gamblers and other disreputable followers, 
 caused the young city to undergo the ordeal of its first and only "•boom." 
 Real estate rose rapidly to almost fabulous prices, with the usual result 
 in a few months afterwards. Incorporated as a city in 18B2, from 
 which time Victoria's growth in wealth and ccmimercial importance, 
 although slow, has been as solid as the rocks on which it is built. For 
 years Victoria was the Hamburgh of the Pacific, b ing the only free port 
 on the eastern shores of that ocean. A large profitable trade was carried 
 on with the neighboring Republic during the M^ar of secession from 'Gl to 
 '66. British goods imported to Victoria found a ready market and an 
 easy means for escaping the high tariff — there being nothing in fact to 
 check it. These were the good old days before confederation. 
 
 Victorii boasts of a very efficient system of water supply C( nstructed 
 and owned by the Corporation, and presents about half a niillon dollars 
 oufcltty. Thase works prove to be a very profitable source of revenue to 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL OUIDR. 
 
 33 
 
 or the 
 or tho 
 uinialt 
 t from 
 jrda "f 
 haling 
 decliu- 
 it is at 
 my of 
 
 10th 
 (vas no 
 udson's 
 t April, 
 iouglas, 
 . Pi-o- 
 govern- 
 . Gold 
 ri to the 
 
 reasons 
 ' did the 
 part of 
 ographi- 
 ed Fort 
 of those 
 id to the 
 ig in the 
 in 1858 
 
 1 to carry 
 the usual 
 oUowers, 
 
 "■boom." 
 ,a.l result 
 Ki2, from 
 portance, 
 lilt. For 
 
 free port 
 as carried 
 
 om '61 to 
 Let and an 
 n fact to 
 
 instructed 
 Ion dollars 
 eveuue to 
 
 tho city. It is lighted by electricity when the moon refuses to perform 
 that service. A system of electric tramways traverse the leading 
 thoroughfares and roads in the vicinity, and is bf^in-^' rapidly oxtended in 
 all dirc'i-.tions. I he streets, running at right angles, aio laid (»tf in broad, 
 roomy thoroughfares, especi'vlly in tho eastern, northern and the outly- 
 ing districts. They aie maintaiii d in a supi'rior manner, being well 
 macadamizcid an constantly subjected tn the i)rocos3 of steam-rolling, and 
 althou.rh a little dusty at times, are always to be found clean and freo 
 from unsightly obstructions. Lines of shade tree.s, now becoming preva- 
 !■ nt, afford delicious shade along the well-kept sidewalks, while the many 
 front guldens, lawns and orchards along the streets in the residential 
 htcalities — for nearly every cottage, however humble, has its garden — 
 overflowing with the wealth of roses, honeysuckles, woodbine and flowers 
 with the heavily laden fruit trees in unsurpassable luxuriance, impart to 
 the appearance of the city at all seasons and indiscribable charm. 
 
 Victoria cannot as yet boast of any public buildings of notable 
 architectural grandeur; however, the pn^babilites are that a few years 
 hence will see municipal and provincial buildings erected, which for 
 uiasrniHcenco, grandeur and beauty of design will be in keeping with the 
 importance and natural scenic beauty of the rising mistress of the 
 Pacific. 
 
 The city is governed by a Mayor and Board of Aldermen, maintains 
 an efhcient police force and parrially paid tire department, is provided 
 with a free library and reading rooms, and scIkjoIs fnr high class inter- 
 mediate education. Charitable i>istitutions are numerous and well 
 supported and consists of: — The Royal Jubilee Hospital, erected at a cost 
 of $50,000, in commemoration of Her Majesty's Jubilee. St. Joseph's 
 Hospital (in connection with the Convent of St. Ann), French 
 Hospital, Protestant Orphans' Home, Chinese Girls' Home, iVJarine Hos- 
 pital, a Pioneer Society, Benevolent Society, and a few other minor 
 Societies, all of which indicate a large distribution of the " milk of human 
 kindness " amongst the inhabitants. 
 
 Tha pre.?3 is represented bp two daily newspanera. The Co/tonis/ (Gov- 
 ernment organ) morning paper and the Mveuing Times (Opposition,) both 
 well and ably conducted. Excellent weekly editions of each are issued con- 
 taining all the news of the week. As elsewhere, they are zealous in 
 advocating the cause of their respective parties with all the force and 
 vehemence of partizan zeal, and are very persistent in hunting up items 
 of news calculated to interest their readers. 
 
 The City of Victoria occupies a site unrivalled for sanitary purposes. 
 A gentle slope from the harbor to the hills forming its northern and 
 eastern boundaries, presents excellent facility for natural or arterial 
 drainage. A comprehensive system of sewers, on the latest modern 
 
34 
 
 TOURISTS* PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 plans, are now in course of construction at an estimated cost of $700,000 
 which will, when executed, render Victoria, at present the most healthy 
 city in the Dominion of Canada, a model in a sanitary respect and the 
 most healthy city in the world. 
 
 There are many calls on the Munical Government involving the ex- 
 penditure of a large amount of money. The credit of the city stands 
 high in the money market of the world, and the necessary funds are 
 easily obtainable at low rates of interest. The people are becoming alive 
 to the necessities of the hour and evince a desire to keep pace with the 
 age, so as to make their city, not only attractive as a tourist resort, but 
 also to maintain that commercial supremacy eecured to it by an unrivalled 
 geographical position, as the gate to the trade and commerce of the vast 
 ocean between the two hemispheres, the tinger-post of which points out 
 the commercial route to India, Australasia, China, Japan and the isles of 
 the sea. 
 
 Insular isolation from contact with the outside world heretofore bred 
 exclusiveness and shyness of strangers from without, and a conservatism 
 of ideas. The opening of the Canadian Pacitic Railway broke down the 
 barrier and changed the aspect of affairs. The inhabitants are hospit- 
 able and courteous to strangers, independent without rudeness, and gen- 
 erally treat outside matters indiferently, proud of the beautiful situation 
 and attractions of their city and its environs, especially the famed 
 Beacon Hill Park. Taking ihe aflfairs of th-? world in a happy-go-lucky 
 kind of style, they are not so "sleepy" as genetaiiv described by in- 
 terant scribblers whose venal writings attempt to de -ry the prospects 
 present and future of Victoria. The enterprise &< d Jo'Iars of the citizens 
 nave helped to build up other towns and ambition" rivals feeling con- 
 tented in the vast superiority in every point of view of their Island City 
 against all competitois. 
 
 The early closing hours and Saturday half-holiday are observed by 
 nearly all trades and businesses, and the slightest excuse for a general 
 holiday eagerly seized. The Queen's birthday (a regular carnival of two 
 days). Dominion Day (Ist July), and Prince of Wales' birthday are kept 
 in a right royal manner. Out door exercise and recreations are largely 
 indulged in— boating up the "Arm," athletic games at Beacon Elill being 
 the the favorite. The people are orderly and law-abiding to a remark- 
 able degree; rowdyism and crime are conspicuous by their absence. There 
 are no poor or indigent, and everyone appears well clothed and fed. See 
 the crowd on a Saturday afternoon or the children at school, then form 
 an opinion and judge accordingly. 
 
 PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
 
 The Victoria Theatre adjoining the Driard Hot«l, aflFords a 
 seating capacity for about eight hundred people, is tastefully and ar- 
 
 aochd 
 QiiiesI 
 incre/ 
 tbroul 
 »e«fc 
 
tourists' pictorial OUIDR. 
 
 36 
 
 000 
 
 Ithy 
 
 the 
 
 ) ex- 
 lands 
 1 are 
 alive 
 hthe 
 t, but 
 vailed 
 3 vaat 
 its oui 
 sles ol 
 
 re bred 
 cvatisni 
 wn the 
 hoapit- 
 ,nd gen- 
 ituation 
 ,B famed 
 go-lucky 
 d by in- 
 )rospect8 
 
 citizens 
 ing con- 
 md City 
 
 srved by 
 a general 
 -al oi two 
 are kept 
 e largely 
 [lill being 
 
 remark - 
 ice. There 
 
 fed. See 
 ihen form 
 
 affords a 
 |ly and at- 
 
 e 
 
 tistically fitted up, has three tiers of stage boxes, a balcony 'or dresa 
 circle and pit, with the usual throne of " the gods," The drop and set 
 scenes are acknowledged works of art. It is well lighted and ventilated 
 and recently great improvements were made for the prevention and ex- 
 tinguishing of tires. The management uc'vertise that none but superior 
 dramatic or operatic troupes will occupy the boards of *' the Victoria," 
 and that constant performances will be maintained during the tourist 
 season. Box office at VVaitt's Music Store, Government Street. Prices 
 vary according to excellence of t^. ape. Price of admission : Boxes from 
 $ to $ ; Balcony and Pit, $1,00 to $1.50 ; Gallery 26 and 50 
 cents. Doors open at 7.30 ; performance commences at 8 o'clock. 
 Matinee at 2 o'clock. 
 
 THE PHILHARMONIC HALL 
 
 Fort Street, where generally are given amateur performances, concerts, 
 etc., in aid of church and charitable objects, is a comfortable hall. 
 There is no balcony or gallery. Price of admission : Front seats, $1.00 ; 
 back seats, 50 cents ; or more commonly 50 cents and 25 cents. 
 
 Next door to the Philharmonic, the Salvation Army advertise to 
 deal out " Blood and Fire," and sound the loud timbrel every evening at 
 8 o'clock. Charge of admission, optional. 
 
 TRADE AND COMMERCE. 
 
 Victoria besides being the financial centre and the great wholesale 
 emporium for supplies, is also the chief shipping port for sailing craft 
 and other vessels, plying to British or other foreign ports. Here are 
 centered the head offices of all the leading industries of the country, and 
 all or nearly all, exports, excepting lumber, iron ore and coal, are 
 shipped from the Port of Victoria, viz : Gold in bars, dust and ores ; 
 canned salmon, fur seals — a large growing industry, and other peltb, hides, 
 fish oils, etc. The duty levied on imports entered for consumption, 
 in the aggregate to a million dollars annually for the province, nino- 
 tenths ot which are collected at this port. The value of exports exceeds 
 th.-\t of all other ports combined, except that of the coal shipping port of 
 Nanaimo. Both imports and exports have increased about fifty per cent, 
 in the last four years. According to official returns the income and 
 property assessment valuation exceed that of Vancouver city sevenfold ! 
 Commercial failures are the exception, not the rule. Such indisputable 
 facts, in themselves, speak louder than words, as to the commercial ac- 
 tivity and supremacy. 
 
 The harbor not being very extensive, shipping of large tonnage 
 anchor in the Royal Roads, and discharge cargo at Esquimalt, three 
 miles distant. The amount of tonnage is annually increasing, and will 
 increase far beyond most sanguine expectations, when Victoria secures 
 through continuous railway communication with the Mainland to the 
 «edt and south. For this desirable purpose the 
 
TOURISTS' PIvTTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 
 III I 
 
 CAKADIAN WESTERN RAILWAY CO. 
 
 received a charter in 1889, from the Provincial Legislature. 
 It is proposed to extend the existing trunk line of Island railway 
 from 't<; northe-n terminus to Fort Rupert, Vancouver Island, thence by 
 a series of island stepping stones across Seymour Narrows to Bute Inlet 
 on the Mainland— the length of the greatest span will not exceed 1,200 
 feet — thence through the fertile plains of Chilcotin, touchin^^ near the 
 Cariboo district, crossing the Rocky Mountains by way of the Y How 
 Head pass on to the western plains, thence by the valley of the 
 Saskatchewan, following the course originally laid out for the Cmiadian 
 Pacific Railway, opening up a 8uperi(»r country suitable for successful 
 settlement, possessing the three most essential qualifications in due pro- 
 portion, viz: fertile land, wood and water. Connection with the main- 
 land to the south will be secured by an rj^^easion of the Island Railway 
 from Fsouiaalt a short distance south-v-estward to Beecher Bay, and 
 thenct, by railway ferry, across the Straits of Juan de Fuca on the 
 opposite shores in the State of Washington to Crescent Bay, a distance 
 of fifteen miles, making connection there with the railway system of the 
 United States. This important hue of railway has received large co - 
 ressions of lands alnng the projected route in British Columbia, from the 
 Provincial Legislature and other aid towards the construction of the 
 work, the preliminaries of which are being energetically pushed forward. 
 A few years will jee the completion of this desirable undertaking. The 
 success of the Canadian Pacific Railway no doubt induced capitalists to 
 come forward unhesitatingly to carry out the project. Victoria will then 
 make one of those modern bounds towa-ds metropolitian gre.vtnes.s 
 dectined for it by an unrivalled, commanding geographical position as 
 the emporium for trade and commerce of the r sing Britain of the west. 
 A glance at the map demonstrates the indisputable fact which accords to 
 Victoria as the only possible key, either in a commercial or stragetic point 
 of view, to the extensiv^e shores of the Pacific MeJiterenean, and the 
 nearest possible port to the immediate shores of tlie Pacific Ocean north 
 of San Francisco, a distance of 700 miles. Thus with an assured 
 supremacy there is nothing to retard its material advance towards wealth 
 and prosperity. Rar^ing at present as the fifth port in the Dominioii, 
 with the advent of tne Canadia i Western Ri,ilway— Victoria will head 
 the list of not only Canada but also many «>£ die ports of the Weste n 
 world as the gateway to the vast trade of the Orient. The little city if 
 to-day will in the next decide expand into a metropolis of two hundrk 1 
 thousand inhar.itants — the centre of trade, commerce and industry « f 
 the Pacific shores of America. 
 
 And why not ? The Island of Vancr)uver alone possessea the 
 resources necesoary — in the inexhaustablo coal fieldf. known to underlie 
 the whole length and breadth of its rugged b'jrface; the hills and mouu- 
 
 *ur 
 of 
 
 paill 
 tinif 
 irnpj 
 
 8ett 
 nblt 
 and I 
 crea 
 C;i{);J 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL OUIDK. 
 
 3r 
 
 ure. 
 [way 
 d by 
 ^nlet 
 ,200 
 r the 
 How 
 the 
 
 essful 
 d pro- 
 main- 
 \il\vay 
 ^, and 
 m the 
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 ire CO - 
 
 T>m thcs 
 
 of the 
 nrward. 
 . The 
 ilists to 
 rill then 
 'e;vtne3s 
 
 iition as 
 he west. 
 
 cords to 
 itic point 
 
 and thi'- 
 
 ill) nortli 
 assured 
 
 13 wealth 
 
 loininioii, 
 111 head 
 SVeste u 
 
 ;le city if 
 huudr^ 1 
 
 dustry < f 
 
 lessea the 
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 w 
 
 tains of rich ircn ore contained within its area; the wealth of fish swarm- 
 ing the surrounding seas are sufficient to make Victoria a Glasgow or a 
 Liverpool. 
 
 MANUFACTURING INDU.STRIES. 
 
 The manufacturing industries at present estr Wished include the 
 nucleus of th<»se great works that have built up the wealth, power and 
 dominion of the British Empire, vik.: iron and shipbuilding. The Albion 
 Iron Works — models of their kind, bids fair to quickly assume unex- 
 pected proportions, are ever increasing and fast growing out of swadling 
 clothes. Cimtinually introducing modern mechanical appliances these 
 works turnout unexceptional engines, machinery and castings, especially 
 marine engines, that would be no discredit to the gigantic works of the 
 old land. The demand lately for schooners suitable for the fast growing 
 industry of fur seal hunting, and deep sea tishing, monster tug boats, 
 etc., forced the ship yatds to extend ^heir power of production. The 
 ways in these yards are seldom, if ever, empty. There are large 
 tanneries; several boot and shoe factories, with every modern labor 
 saving appliances; large furniture factories; printing and lithographing 
 establishments. The color printing and lithographing executed by the 
 Cohmist Printing Co., are triumphs of the typographical art, especially 
 the beautiful and artistic labels that adorn the delicious canned salmon of 
 British Columbia, and which are distributed all over the globe. Book 
 binderies, typ3 foundries, electroplating, biscuit making, cigar, clothing 
 and several other thriving uumufaotories and industries, prospering and 
 continually increasing their power of production to meet the fast grow- 
 ing demand, "W evidences of prosperity. Ten Chinese opium factories 
 turn out the greater part of the manufactured article used in the neigh- 
 boring Reiublic, and although ne'tlier the Canadian or United States 
 customs returns mny not exhib'l, a full account of the amount of opium 
 exported from Victoria it, however, reaches there somehow by the 
 "underground railway" and other channels without paying the high duty 
 of ten dollars per pound levied on it by the United States Revenue De- 
 pavtment. Fortunes have been made in this business, connived at for a 
 tnn3 by some customs officers on tho other side. The crude article is 
 imported from the Orient an 1 manufactured here into the black paste of 
 f^oninierce. A large rice mill -importing the rice from the Straits 
 Settleir ^nts — by a secret pr(jcess, turns out the article in ail forms suit- 
 able f(.r competion, a large quantity of which is consumed by the Chinese 
 and is, it is said, the only mill of the kind in Canada. The output is in- 
 creasing and the company are about extending their works to a greater 
 capacity. . 
 
 A sugar refinery, flour mill, paper mill and a large saw mill are 
 being erected, which have been bonused by the city to the amount of 
 $85,000. These additional industries will afford employment to about 
 
If'' ■ 
 
 H- 
 
 K?'" 
 
 SB 
 
 TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 500 hands. According to the terms <^f the bonus none but white labor 
 must be employed, the coolie element being rigoursly excluded. 
 
 The several articles turned out by the manufacturing industries of 
 Victoria compare favorably with the products of more pretentious estab- 
 lishments elsewhere, affording constant and lucreative employment to 
 about one thousand hands (when the new industries are in running order 
 1,500 hands will be employed). Unfortunately, so as to compete with 
 the cheap labor of the east, recourse has lo be made to Chinese labor, 
 especially in the lighter articles, as boots » nd clothing. This coolie labor 
 is, however, discouraged wherever possible, A good deal can be said on 
 this grave question, one that is forcing itself on the attentiim of the 
 Federal and Imperial Governments regarding the unrestricted admission 
 of these vampire Mongolian hordes, who absorb the vitality of the 
 cnuntrv. Nowhere are the baneful evils of this pernicious system more 
 apparently visible on all sides to the casual observer than in this, the 
 l»eautifui, prosperous city of Victoria. To this, and this alone, must be 
 attributed "the quiet,"' "sleepy," "(dd madish" terms sarcastically 
 applied and given to the world by writers of distinction regarding the 
 outside street appearance of this city. Quiot reigns abroad this glorious 
 summer night, broken only by the strains of the "Queen City" band 
 performing in the adjacent street, or the noisy, discordant screams of the 
 Saltation Army, marching through "blood and fire" "on to glory," 
 followed by a few boys, beneath your windows. No midnight brawls, or 
 unseemely disturbances breaks the stillness or disturbs the well earned 
 repose of thu tourist enjoying his first night's rest in quiet, peaceful 
 Victoria. 
 
 BEACON HILL PARK. 
 
 This famous natural park, one of Victorias chief attractions, is situ- 
 tuated to the south-east of the city, along the shores of the Straits of 
 Fuca, in extent about ninety-two acres and is as yet unenclosed. Bea- 
 con Hill Park is onev«if not the finest public places of resort in America 
 — the theme of praise of all visitors, and proudly boasts as aflbrding the 
 most superb and extensive and varied marine view in existance. A. short 
 ride on the electric tramway from Government street across James P yv 
 bridge, passing en route, to the right the Provincial Governuieni build 
 ings, by many pretentious private residences of this aristocratic loc-^Ut} 
 — ^the Belgravia of Victoria, surrounded by their well-kept lawuH. 
 gardens and orchards, the rose and honeysuckle ever prevalent, 
 enclosed by neat trim hedge rows of hawthorn and holly,with laybrintlis of 
 aspen shade trees forming a suitable prelude to one of nature's grandest 
 scenes. . • ■ -- - 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 m 
 
 Eibor 
 
 es of 
 stab- 
 nt to 
 jrder 
 
 with 
 abor, 
 labor 
 ,id on 
 :>f the 
 tission 
 ,f the 
 I more 
 .8, the 
 ustbe 
 iticaliy 
 ing the 
 rlorious 
 }" band 
 8 of the 
 glory," 
 iwls, or 
 
 earned 
 peaceful 
 
 18 situ- 
 
 itraits of 
 
 id. Bea- 
 
 Atnerica 
 
 rdina the 
 
 A. short 
 avnes P^v 
 n'i. b'lild- 
 
 \oop\it> 
 it laWis. 
 )revaleiit:i 
 brinths of 
 
 grandest 
 
 Alighting from ^he cars beneath the umbrageous multitude of leaves 
 which holds the shrde from the fierce rays of the summer's sun, the vista 
 opens on {jreen a'^eys, forest walks, bowers and covats, where scarcely a 
 ray of sunlight falls on the lengthened sylvan gloon . Fountains toss and 
 play, falling in ever changing prismatic showers, ripling the ornamental 
 winter beneath were disport the golden species of the finny tribe. In the 
 
 • eM glades the children play and the mature lounge indolently on the 
 
 • ' seats around all enjoying the delightful shade and the fresh sea 
 Df aeze beneath the giants of the primeval forest, whose pristine beauty 
 is heightened by contact with civilization. To the south, through the 
 forest op ning, streams, instantaneously striking the eye in rapid radience, 
 the sheen of the silvery waters of the Straits and the illumined snow- 
 tops of the Olympian range beyond. Out intn the open from the shade 
 of the cool retreat stretches the green sward rismg till the top of the 
 Beacon Hill is reached, then descending to the placid waters tha kiss the 
 banks along the shore. The bursting prospect spreads immense around 
 as the height is gained. Mountain, sea and forest, wood and dale, the 
 adjoining city softly enjoining its siesta embossemed in surrounding trees, 
 the straits dotted over with the white-winged craft of pleasure, the heavily 
 laden b-trk or *^he puffing, panting steamer, the uncurling waters diffused 
 in a glassy ' -psth to the opposite shores, '.vhere the broken landscape of 
 the foresh scends by degrees, roughens into hills, over which the 
 snowy r.; k ' t'le Olympian mountains appear like clouds skirting th« 
 olue li v.'. K he Sooke Hills to the right, clothed in dense forest, 
 lesseniixg ' titude as they 'terminate in the Race Rocks, the exit to 
 tlie immensii i^ he Pacific. To the left rear high above the superna- 
 tant clouds of tho low lying shore line, giving back the rays of tba bright 
 sun, in colors blending in radience like a disc of burnisk.ed silvor, Mount 
 Baker, 11,000 feet above the water, smiles down in all its solemn glory. 
 
 Skirting the base of the hill carriages whirl pass or leisurely jogg 
 along The crowds of loungers oiling on the green slope basking in the 
 warm «un, the heat c >oled l3y the waft of the gentle breeze 
 ever V.i- ithing fromt he perpetual snows on the southern horizon, drink 
 
 in a iuV .'■.rr-jght from this overflowing cup of nature. 
 
 Here the raptured eye can hurry from joy to joy, spread out wide 
 and wild by 'he negligence of nature undisguised by mimic art in a profu- 
 sionof unbounded beauty. The forest darkened sides of snow-capped moun- 
 tains, the calm silvery waters, the vapor arising from the steamers and 
 the factories of the busy city, whose spires and minarets gleam high above 
 the leafy surroundings, hills and dales, woods and lawns blending in 
 colors innumerable, making an all-instructive page in nature's broad 
 album. But who can paint like nature ? Nor can all the gay creation 
 uf imagination boast of hues mixed with-matchless skill as here diaplayed« 
 
w 
 
 40 
 
 TOURISTS I'ICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 I 
 
 ■» 
 
 
 Language fails, nor can words be found tinged with so many colors, 
 touched into perfection by the Great Master's hand, with all the witch- 
 craft of an ensnaring h.veliness ! The extent, magnitud , granu^^ur and 
 variety stands unparalleled and unec ' >1)f)d There may be many Hyde 
 Parka, Regents Parks or Phoenix ' , but there can be only one 
 
 Beacon Hill, in fashioning which natur*. exceeded her conception of 
 the work, rested satistied and never formed another. _ .« 
 
 In 1889 the City Corporation voted $25,000 for the "improvement" 
 of the park by making roads and drives, shady walks and groves, orna- 
 mental waters and flower beds, etc., and the establishment of a miiature 
 **Z^)o." It were impossible to " improve" this grand triumph of nature, 
 still the artificial additions are a great " improvement," where it only as 
 a matter of convenience. There are opinions that i hese " improvements" 
 detract fi.:m the pristine beauty of the scene ; however, the casual visitor 
 wUl admit 1 hat " improvements" for convenience and pleasure cannot 
 detracc from the beauty stretching far beyond, except a giirantic kind of 
 Chinese wall were birik around the place, even then Mount Baker 
 and the Olympians would peep over the top. 
 
 The distance of the Olympian range (about 20 miles) "lends en- 
 chantment to the view;" the Victorians have all "the view," while their 
 American Cousins have all the mountains, so honors are easy on this 
 score, although very much in favor of the Victorians. 
 
 The " Zoo " contains several fine specimens of Ihe denizens of the 
 native forest wilds and the mild-eyed fur-seal of the northern seas. A 
 **whale" can be seen by stepping into the hotel at the main entrance to the 
 Park. 
 
 A visit to Beacon Hill in early morn', sultry midday, or the hour of 
 glorious sunset, in shower or sunshine, summer or winter, hourly, daily 
 or weekly, will be found always enjoyable and never menotonous. The 
 band from the fleet at Esquimalt, that of " C " Battery Royal Canadian 
 Artillery, perform selectioi ; alternately in the afternoons during week 
 days, and Che Queen City Band on Sundays. Light refreshments, iced 
 lemonade, milk,, etc., can be obtained at the stands near the fountains. 
 Neatness and order are observable everywhere. There are many "im- 
 provements " yet required, which will come all in good time. The visitor 
 reluctantly tears himself away from all this pomp of nature and romantic 
 beauty (not forgetting the "improvements,") with a lasting impression 
 engraved on the memory of the unsurpassable situation and beautiful 
 surroundings of famed Beacon Hill. . 
 
 BOATING UP THE] VICTORIA ARM. 
 
 The romantic stretch of water known as Victoria Arm (a beautiful, 
 sl)apely ann, inc'eed,) is an inlet of the sea running up the valley between 
 
TOUEISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 ^ 
 
 the 
 A 
 to the 
 
 )ur of 
 daily 
 The 
 nadian 
 week 
 iced 
 ntaiiis. 
 im- 
 visitor 
 inautic 
 >ression 
 autiful 
 
 >i 
 
 tht hills to the north-west and the Sooke hills to the south-west, forcing 
 its way for a distance of about seven miles till it very nearly forms a 
 junction with the waters of Const,ance Cove, Esquimalt Harbor. When 
 the tide is on the full the water flows upward at the race of about nine 
 miles an hour, returning, when ou the ebb with, if anything, increased 
 velocity, giving to " the Arm " the appearance of a river. As far as the 
 "Gorge" its surface it smooth, beyond that point, where it forces its 
 way between the confined rocks, the surface is turbulent and the bod of 
 the stream more shallow. Boating is easy beyond "the CxDrge," if going 
 with the tide, while "the Gorge " itself for a distance of thirty or forty 
 yards is at all times, particularly at the ebb, where the narrow volunio of 
 w.\ter boiling with maddening furv rushes between the r(»cks — a dantjor- 
 piece of navigation. A towpath runs under the bridge and the boat is 
 easily " tracked" through the defile. Fatal accidents have happened at 
 this point through foolhardiness, in a reckless endeavtu* tn breast the 
 trublent stream. 
 
 'Tis afternoon, the heat of the day is declini-ig, the fresh evening 
 sea breeze is blowing across the harbor as the t urist reaches the landing- 
 stairs on the Government street side of James Bay bridge. A boat is 
 hired for the afternoon (see boat fares). Pulling up the harbor past the 
 crowds of shipping ahmg the wharves, under the railway bridge and the 
 Rock Bay bridge — say the tide is on " the full," and with very little 
 exertion Victoria Arm is entered. The visitor is enraptured with the 
 enchantment of the romantic scene before hun, unfolding as he glides 
 smoothly along the unruffled surface lit up into a sheet of burnished gold 
 by the declining sun and the creamy hue of the brazen sky overhead. 
 The wooded sides, tho deepening dales and sylvan glades, the rocky 
 shores and pendant groves of bright arbutus or sombre fir, wh'tse gradu- 
 ally lengthening shadovs cast their' reflections in the placid waters, 
 the verdant lawns stretching down to the water's edge, the stately homes 
 of wealth and ease peeping over the tops of surrounding bowers, the ever 
 changing: feature of rockv point and headland. Shade deepening over 
 shade of many colored woods, whose green embroidered robes of every 
 tint, from emerald to sooty black, embrace the horizon around. The 
 crowds of pleasure boats with their joyous occupants of youtli and beauty 
 tioating gaily o:» the stream of life, the picnic parties of mirthful children, 
 homely matrons and thoughtful sires, youth and a^te, the civili/od 
 Christian and the older heathen civilization of far off Cathay, all enjoying 
 the blissful enehaatment of the dreamy scone, or the delicious shade of 
 bowery thickets, of lofty pines and venerable oaks. The iieart beats glad 
 floating on this full flowing stream, a delicious cooli..g comfort glides 
 through the nerves, the eye expands taking in the tuU scope of the beau- 
 tiful surroundings, the sinews knit as you bend to the oar and life is 
 renewed, as it were, to a blissful thought of a peacitul romantic dream of 
 fairyland. 
 
42 
 
 tourists' pictorial guide. 
 
 The skiff being "tracked" through "'the Gorge," the voyage of dreamy 
 pleasure is continued past the Victoria Gardens on the right on up 
 through deepening banks, the umbratic shores becoming more darkened 
 as the sun disappears over the western hills, sinking to rest in the great 
 waters beyond, lighting into myriads of shades and hues the tops of the 
 facing forest-clad hills. The "row" has been lengthened. Retracing 
 the course a landing at the Victoria Gardens, or Marshall's hotel on the 
 opposite side of the Gorge, may be deemed necessary to recupera!-e the 
 body. These hostleries will be found clean and neat, although not com- 
 ing up to the " Star and Garter " or " Rosherville." A good tea, supper 
 or dinner, with good wines, wil be served to order. Shrimps and tea 
 (not for 9d., though,) broiled salmon or trout, delicious fruit, can be en- 
 joyed amidst the shady groves 
 
 The tide is on the ebb, " the rapids are near and daylight is past," 
 the pale silver moon sheds her beams on the calm waters, the giant forest 
 trees assume fantastic shapes, the song and chorus breaks on the stillne'^s 
 of the scene, the dip of oars and diamor d spray sparkels in the silvery 
 liorbt. Floating on, prolonging the journey, never wearying of the 
 iu^b uties around. Grand was the prospect as seen by the light of a sum- 
 mer's sun, the pT.ler orb of night diffuses a more calm subdued blissful- 
 ness around. Tlie tourist returns to his hotel renewed in health, 
 strength, mind and body by the evening's exercise and lost in love, arJ 
 with a romantic admiration for Victoria's Arm, the delightful beautiei of 
 which will never be forgotten. ' 
 
 rmu 
 
 uimi 
 
 A WALK THROUGH VICTORIA. 
 
 The ever bright sunshine and cloudless sky, the scent of the rose 
 and honeysuckle, the cool refreshing breeze, invite a stroll abroad. Let 
 us explore the buaifiess portion of the city, and note the evidences of 
 wealth and commercial prosperity, observable throughout this the 
 wealthiest city in America for the number of population. Wealth here, 
 is more equally distributed am(mg8t the pei>ple, and Victoria cannot 
 aa yet, boast of its exclusive four hundred. Here in the well stocked 
 stores of Government street — the Regent street o.' Victoria — may be seen 
 the key to the tastes and requirements of the inhabitants. Jewellers and 
 drapers predominate, rich and rare are the goods and stuffs displayed ; 
 articles of merchandise suitable for wealthy customers ; diamonds and 
 silks, millinery the newest and latest, and such like. What crowds of 
 cust(m)ers throng in and out the shopis, pretentious equipages dash along 
 the thoroughfares, talcing up or depositing purchasers — not merely shop 
 viewers. The throng of beauty and fashion crowding this favorite prom- 
 enade, especially of an afternoon. Each and every fair one exhibiting 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL GUIDE. 
 
 m 
 
 perfect good taste in dress, free from that loud extreme and gaudiness of 
 fashion painfully noticeable in western cities. North of the Post OflBce 
 at the junction of Yates street, is " Campbell's Corner" the most noted 
 and well-known spot on the Paciric Coast of America, from Cape Horn 
 to Kamtschatka. Cigars and tobacco in the little shop for a " bit," and 
 oucuide a free read of the daily papers, with the latest news and dispatches 
 done in red and blue on the bulletin board, free, gratis, or for nothing, 
 or perhaps an exhibition of some exceptionally large fruit or other curi- 
 osity. Knots of comfortable looking old-time pioneers, lounging in and 
 about the little shop, discussing with the jovial looking proprietor the 
 events of early days, or examining some lately discovered ri h specimen 
 of ore. " The Corner " is a wooden building, a remnant of early Colonial 
 days, and may be removed at any time, like its old companions, to make 
 way for the onward march of improvement — now rapidly destroying all 
 such evidences of the past. The proprietor, Mr. .Frank Campbell, is a 
 great authority on the history of the country; very conversant, and 
 always ready to repeat his experience of events, men and things, in the 
 good old days of Cariboo. 
 
 The broad thoroughfare of Yates street, running at right angles to 
 Government street, is Iseing rapidly built up with solid brick buildings, 
 replacing the old wooden structures, whose usefulness has passed away. 
 Turn to the left and pass down the wholesale quarter. No need of 
 remark, as the buildings, lanes and courts, the heavy iron shutters, bales 
 and boxes of merchandise being constantly loaded and unloaded, indi- 
 cate as much. The warehouses, shipping and booking offices along 
 Wharf street, which runs parallel with the harbor, deserted and silent 
 enough when you landed in the evening, but now full of life and activity. 
 Smartly dressed clerks, staid looking merchants, move about in a busi- 
 ness like manner, without flurry or bluster or ostentatious display. Yet 
 the wealth of Wharf Street is proverbial. The crowded ware-houses, the 
 busy wharfs, ships discharging cargo from Liverpool, London, the 
 Straits Settlements, San Francisco, etc. The fleet winged schooners 
 from Behring Sea, with rich cargoes of fur seals and sea otters, and the 
 heavily laden steamers from the salmon canneries of the Fraser river. 
 Rivers Inlet, Naas river. Port Simpson, Skeena and other distant ports, 
 to bo shipped as return cargo to London, Liverpool and Melbourne, as 
 the case may be. 
 
 'Tis true the warehouses and other buildings can lay no claim to 
 being pretentious. To understand the volume of business done a peep must 
 be had behind the scenes — into the ledgers, bank books and the customs 
 returns. Satisfied now by these outward and inward visible sigas despite 
 the supposed "sleepy," "old madish," "easy going" character given by 
 some very distinguished transient writers, who either from neglect or 
 
4 TOURISTS PICTORIAL UUIDB. 
 
 other cauBe did not examine ini^o the actual state of affairs — the tourist 
 will feel himself releived of an uncertainity. 
 
 Knota of blue jackets, red and blue marines and Royal Canadian 
 Artillery strolling along impart the appearance of a British garrison town 
 to the place. 
 
 A good birds eye view of the city and harbor can be obtained from 
 Church Hill — near Christ Church Cathedral — or from the heights to the 
 east. A view from the top of Mount Douglas to the north-west would 
 be superb and doubly repay the trouble. To the mineralogist, a visit to 
 Kurtz' cigar store, on Government street, will be found very interesting, 
 where a tine, well-aelected cabinet of British Columbian ores and minerals 
 is open to the inspection of the public. If the t urist desires to entangle 
 himself in the meshes of the law a visit to the new law courts in Bastion 
 Square — an unique structure of its kind — will fill all requirements. If 
 he can extricate himself without the assistance of a guide he deserves a 
 medal. The judges and counsellors in court appear in full boLLomad 
 A^igs and gowns and other accessories (»f a full British Court of Justice. 
 
 No doubt the eye of the tourist has been held spellbound by the 
 elaborate "gilt edged" appearance and profusion of Real Estate offices, 
 an indisjjutaljle sign that real property in Victoria is being eagerly sought 
 after. Some advertise that they are selling property for a song, while 
 others are so very obliging and accommodating as to offer it for an old 
 pair of boots, furnishing the boots into the bargain, in order to make 
 a deal. Real estate \n and around Victoria is a profitable investment. 
 House rents and ground rents return good interest on outlay, while the 
 value increases from year to year without any precepiatble "boom." The 
 banks will advance three-fourths value on any property in the vicinity. 
 Over 350 new houses were erected in 1889, and the estimated cost of 
 buildings contracted for on 1st January, 1890, amounted to two million 
 dollars 1 That estimate will be nearly doubled before the end of the 
 year. The probabilities are that the value of real property in Victoria 
 and vicinity will, judging from the past year and present indications, 
 more than double in value the next twelve months, especially in the out- 
 lying districts and the immediate business portion of the city. Should 
 the tourist be desirous to invest before doi"g so, it were well that he 
 should consult his banker regarding the matter. 'I his hint is given only 
 as a precautionary measure. There are very many real estat ■ firms in 
 Victoria whose reputation, probity and credit stands as high and as 
 reputable as any banker's; yet there may be in this particular line of 
 business some so unscruplous that it were better to avoid. A "good talk- 
 ing man" with sufficient money to pay a monti/s rent, buy a bottle of ink 
 and a few sheets of pa[)er as stock in trade, with a bniken down tabl 3 
 and a chair as furniture, can easily start a real estate r>ffic« and rely oi. 
 the gullability of human natur ess. The golden opportunity is 
 
TOURISTS PIOTORIAL OUIDR. 
 
 ^ 
 
 tompting-^however, a word to the wise is suflScient. Intending in- 
 vestors would do well to provide themselves with letters of introduction 
 to their banker or to men of repute before leaving the Old Country. 
 
 The Young Men's Christian Association Rooms and the Public 
 Library and Reading Rooms adjoin, situated in the Broad street part of 
 Spencer's Arcade, near the Diiard Hotel. These rooms are well 
 patronized by the citizens and strangers sojourning in the city. The city 
 police office and court, alsni the several municipal offices will be found in 
 the City Hall, corner of Pandora and Douglas streets. This building is hav- 
 ing a new addition made this season consisting of a moi ecomnjodiout: council 
 chamber, clock tower, etc. The visitor to the public buidings in Victoria 
 will wonder at the wires invariable strung overhead in all the large 
 chambers — they are not telegraph lines, nor yet clothes lines— they are 
 more properly speaking a kind of telephone arrangement to catch the 
 sound of the voice before it is lost in the ceiling and precipitate it back 
 on to the ear of the listeners, a very desirable arrangement; else 
 speakers would be losfc in the haze of their cwn verbosity and retain 
 all the benefit arrising therefrom to themseves. It is to be hijped that 
 the tourist will admit that the hour's ramble around the streets 
 proved profitable and entertaining. A visit to Chinatown should be made 
 at night accompanied by guide, when the opium and gambling deys, Jos 
 houses, theatres, etc., are in full blast. 
 
 A DRIVE TO ESQUIMALT 
 
 will be next in order. The tourist can go by the electric cars, 'bus, or 
 hack. In crossing the Rock liay bridge, to the left will be observed the 
 Indian settlement, occupying the valuable neck of land on the west side 
 of the harbor, which, instead of the canoes seen along the beach and the 
 scattered Indian shanties should be occupied by shipping, wharves and 
 wai-ehouses. In all prob.»bility such will be the cise in a short time. 
 When that happy result takes place it will nut come before it is needed. 
 A splendid road on which you are travelling — equal to a turnpike isn't it? 
 If the government of British Columbia can boast of nothing else they can 
 bo'st of the roads, which are maintained by them in a high state of ex- 
 cellence, and considering the roughness of the country, are the best on the 
 continent of America. P'olitical issues between the "in's" and "out's" are 
 fought on the roads — the knights of the shire are knights of the road — 
 on which they make the ministers stand and deliver. The "in's," to pro- 
 pitiate the constituencies, deal generously with the roads and the "out's" 
 see that the appropriations are expended. Such, however, may not be 
 the right road to political morality, still, the visitor, not questioning the 
 means, will cast an unbiased ballot in favor of the excellent condition of 
 the roads in British Columbia. 
 
 Note the buildings and clearings extending on either side; they are but 
 things of yesterday. Only twelve months ago here the stately forest 
 
46 
 
 TOtlRISTs' PICTORIAt GUlDB. 
 
 
 i: 
 
 m 
 
 trees bent to the breeze, forming a drive of cylvan beauty; now cut up, 
 displaying stumps and nakedness, and a glaring newness which, to say 
 the least, are at best unsightly. The polish and finishing touches will 
 follow in due course ; lawns, gardens and orchnrds will add a new beauty 
 for a time, and only a time, when they in turn will, perforce, give place to 
 those gigantic structures of trade and commerce which at no distant day, 
 will garnish the road on which you are now travelling. To the intelligent 
 observer this assertion is no myth or vain boast. Westward is the march 
 of empire, and if ever Esquimalt is anything it must be the port of the 
 waters of the Pacitic. 
 
 Canadian Artillery men, blue jackets and marines, are plentiful 
 along the way, the neat wayside inns scattered at convenient intervals, 
 even the very names of which denote the approach to a large naval and 
 military station, and call tu miud familiar scenes in the older Britain. 
 
 Before descending the hill towards the little village of JSsquimalt look 
 over to the right, the laud rising from the harbor in a gentle slope where 
 farm steadingi, tields and meadows gladden the landscape. There some 
 prophetic ones declare will arise a city — the westward extension of Vic- 
 toria, surpassing in commercial brilliancy, the hopes and aspirations of the 
 most sanguine "boomer." It is caid that a canal uniting the Arm with the 
 waters of Conatance Cove and some other slight additions would give 
 about eight miles of the best sheltered and the safest anchorage in the 
 world. During the row up the Arm did it not strike the idea that there 
 was a great amount of power in the ebb and flow which could be utilized 
 for mechanical purposes. That Victo ia will extend to and beyond Es- 
 quimalt in a few years is a safe conjecture; the older portion of the city 
 will always hold its own in wealth and importance, while the newer 
 portions, here to the west, will be the great shipping and manufacturing 
 centres. Esquimalt is the only natural terminus for a Canadian trans-conti- 
 nental railway and is that of the Canada Western. The prophetic 
 predictions of the seers may come to pass much sooner than imagined 
 even by themselves. . . 
 
 What a fine view of the harbor of Esquimalt aud the Royal Roads, 
 beautiful in the extreme, useful in the piping times of peace or the stir- 
 ring times of war. Opposite is Constance Coye where those iron bul- 
 warks of Britain ride so easily at anchor. What miles of arfbhorage the 
 circling shores oflfer where the busy life and the sounds of trade and in- 
 dustry will soon liven up and break (m the surrounding stillness. There 
 where the tall chimney stands is the Graving Dry Dock, constructed at the 
 joint expense of the Imperial and Dominion authorities at a cost of 
 $900,000. When the improvements now being executed are completed 
 this dock will be capable of accommodating the largest man-o'-war afloat. 
 To the left is the Royal ^aval arsenal, the yard occupied by store houses, 
 
TOURISTS PICTORIAL OUIDB. 
 
 
 
 ;,oads, 
 stir- 
 bul- 
 re the 
 nd in- 
 There 
 at the 
 ost of 
 pleted 
 afloat, 
 louseg, 
 
 repair shops, provision depots, stacks of shot and shell, etc. The Royal 
 Naval docks are beini; f irnished with large cranes and other appliances 
 for loading or unloading of heavy ordnance, a barracks for the garrison 
 of Royal Marine Artillery, sub- marine minors, lines of fortitications and 
 other accessories required to protect the harbor from tlie sea are in course 
 of construction. For Esquimalt is one of the chiuf coaling stations 
 recommended by the late Royal Comnjission on Colonial Defence as 
 worthy of being protected from the assaults of an enemy, besides being 
 the headquarters of the Pacific Squadron and the depot for warlike sup- 
 plies. The inexhaustible coal fields of Nanaimo are connect d by rail, 
 and in time of need there are the resources of the broad Dominion to fall 
 back upon. In case of European complications Britt in has in her North 
 American possessions both an invaluable source fc^r supplies and an un- 
 interrupted route secure through her own territory to reach her Asiatic 
 possesions From the time when Vancouver anchored in this harbor, 
 ovjr one hundred years ago, '^own to the present, the importance (»f 
 Esquimalt to the Empire has ever been acknowledged. In 1854 the 
 attack of some ships of the Pacific Squadron ■ n the Russian settlement in 
 the north having resulted rather severely, Esquimalt proved a very use- 
 ful appendage ia more ways than one. And the precautionary measures 
 of detenc*, now in hand, show the wisdom of the Lords of the Admiralty 
 in carrying out the recoiumen lations of the Royal Commission. The 
 garrison consists of about 100 marines and engineers, 130 men "C " Bat- 
 tery Royal Canadian Regiment of Artillery, and a reserve in the Head 
 Quarter Batteries of the British Columbia Artillery Militia —in all about 
 500 men on land, with from two to four ships and cruisers of the Pacific 
 Squadron nearly always present in the harbor. This garrison can, in 
 case of emergency, be augmented by reinforcements in a short tirio 
 either from the home station, Halifax, N. S., or Bermuda. 
 
 The Dry Dock has been found to beof great service to the Admiralty, 
 especially in the case of the late serious accident to fl. M. Ship Amphion, 
 which only for this dock would, in all probability, have resulted in a total 
 loss to the country of one of its finest cruisers. 
 
 The little hamlet of Esquimalt does not present a very ambitious ap- 
 pearance compatible with its Imperial importance, a shop or two, s'^me 
 hotels, of which the Globe is the be^t, and several public houses and beer 
 shops, and a few private houses make up the community. The Royal 
 Naval hospital, canteen and other quarters situated on the east side of 
 Constance Cove are passed before entering the village. 
 
 The barracks of the Canadian artillery are situated at Macauley's Point, 
 opposite the Half-way House, about midway to Victoria. iShould the 
 tourist desire to visit any of the war ships in harbor a boat can be hired 
 at the stairs at the bottom of Esquimalt's only street. The ships are free 
 
AS 
 
 TOURISTS* PICTORIAL Ol^IDR. 
 
 h» visitors any time duiinjj the dtiy up to " retreat," (sunset). The Drj 
 Dock is open to visitors also. The officers of the fleet mix freely in 
 
 * society A- d are invariably very hospitable. A ball in the sail lo^t at thd 
 
 Naval Yard is snuiuthing splendid, lit up by electricity and decorateq 
 with flags as only saihirs know how to do. The conduct of the seameq 
 
 .| and marines when on shore has always been exemplary and a credit td 
 
 the noble service to which they belong. 
 
 In returning to Victoria a drive by way of tho 
 
 'A CRAIGFLOWER ROAD 
 
 would be a fitting conclusion to the day's outing. Driving to the Gorge 
 bridge a splendid view of the Arm can be obtained. On one side the 
 city in the distance towards which the Arm widens out, crowded witf 
 \^. pleasure bojits, and is now seen to better advantage than from the wat* 
 
 'f — the eye has more scf)pe consequently the landscape appears morfidiver- 
 
 i sifled. The upper reach of the Arm, like a swift flowing stream,, affurtUi 
 
 a more contracted prospect nevertheless beautiful. The journey along 
 this road will be found very enjoyable, although the dust may be a little 
 f tioublesome, it affords shade and sunshine alternately till within a mile 
 
 or so of the city when the clearings, with their stumps and new looking 
 houses, make a break in a very picturesque drive. The sound of the 
 woodsman's axe and the builder's hammer break discordantly on the ear 
 and disturbs the surrounding stillness. Clearing and burning the work 
 of man's destructiveness goes on under the name of improvement, creep- 
 ing gradually on the domain of nature and here invading her in her very 
 stronghold. But such must be. Necessity requires it, the way of the 
 great ci y must be cleared. Alrcadi it has burst across the intervening 
 waters and the work of invasions is ..rried ruthlessly on. A short time 
 ago one of the Colonial millionaires secured a stretch of forty acres on 
 this road extending from the bridge along the shores of the Ann, with 
 tho intention of building a palatial residence and making the grounds 
 triumphs of landscape gardening. Consequently the value of property 
 tt»ok a rise, and this circumstanf^e and the romantic beauty of the locality 
 causes a demand for residential locations along the roads in the immedi- 
 ate vicinity of the Victoria Arm. Where every spot isbeauttful it would 
 f be hard to discriminate, as the openings occur they afford a splendid view 
 
 of the residences and gr. unds on the opposite side of the Arm. This 
 road runs almost parallel with the Esquimalt road, another year will see 
 the intervening forest cleared, where streets, houses and mansions will, 
 spring up with the rapidity of magic. 
 
 i 
 
The Drj 
 lix freely in 
 I lo^t at thd 
 I decoratecl 
 the seanienj 
 i a credit to 
 
 the Gorgej 
 3ne aide thej 
 owded witf 
 m the wate 
 
 1 monj di*-er-j 
 earn,, affurdai 
 urney alun^ 
 ly be a littlej 
 [thin a mile 
 new looking 
 )und of the 
 y on the ear 
 ig the work 
 iient, creep- 
 : in her very 
 
 way of the 
 
 intervening 
 ^ short time 
 rty acres on 
 
 Arm, with 
 the grounds 
 
 ctf property 
 f the locality 
 the itnmedi- 
 ;tful it would 
 pleudid view 
 
 Arm. This 
 year will see 
 lansions will