A RELATION OF A JOURNEY OF THE Right Honourable My Lord HENRY HOWARD, From London to Vienna, and thence to Constantinople; In the Company of his Excellency Count Lesley, Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece, Counsellor of State to his Imperial Majesty, etc. And Extraordinary Ambassador from Leopoldus Emperor of Germany to the Grand Signior, Sulton Mahomet Haver the Fourth. Written by John Burbury Gent. London, Printed for T. Collins and I. Ford, at the Middle-Temple gate, and S. Hickman at the Rose in St. Paul's Church yard. 1671. TO THE Honourable HENRY HOWARD, Eldest Son of the Right Honourable MY LORD HENRY HOWARD. SIR, PIctures, which relate to a Family, are usually exposed in Galleries, that the Heir by looking on them, may not only see the Features, but read too the Virtues and generous Exploits of his truly Noble Ancestors. This Picture of my Lord, your Father's Journey into Turkey (whom you have so lively copied in your early Travels abroad) I humbly present at your Feet, being sure it will have a choice place in the Gallery of your Mind, since the Original itself (which extracts admiration from all) will doubtless as highly deserve of Posterity, as any of your greatest progenitors. Here without the Wind of Adulation, I might tow down the Stream of my Lord your Father's Qualities, and excellent Endowments, but remembering that you two only differ in time, I shall but say this (lest I seem to flatter you) that you are most happy in your Father, and your Father as happy in you. May your Happiness like the Danube (which in its long passage through Tyrole, Bavaria, Austria, and Hungary, receives thirty Navigable Rivers, ere it falls into the Sea) increase all along in the course of your Life, till it come to be as great, as to your Noble Self, and your Family, the devotion is of, SIR, Your most humble and most obedient faithful Servant, John Burbury. A RELATION OF A JOURNEY OF THE Right Honourable My Lord HENRY HOWARD, From London to Vienna and Constantinople. ON Tuesday the twenty one of February, 1664. about one of the Clock in the Morning, the Right Honourable my Lord Henry Howard, and his Noble Brother Mr. Edward Howard, together with their Retinue, set forward towards Constantinople, and that night arrived at Dover. The invitation to this Journey (besides the curiosity of seeing that Eastern part of the World) had its rise and beginning, from the Emperor of Germany his sending an Extraordinary Ambassador to the Grand Signior, in order to the settling & establishment of that Peace▪ which not long before, on each side the Ministers of State, had agreed on and concluded. Besides, Count Lesley, the Person designed for Ambassador, was so very well known, to my Lord of happy memory, Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey (while his Lordship was Ambassador in Germany) that as long as my said Lord of Arundel lived, Letters of Correspondence past weekly between them. His Grandson could not therefore have a fairer pretence, to accompany Count Lesley, nor in reason doubt the least of a favourable reception, which his Lordship always found in the greatest measure possible. But to return to Dover, on Wednesday the twenty two, my Lord, with his Brother aforesaid, took shipping for Calais, sending part of his Train with the baggage to Dunkirk, where on the twenty three his Lordship met the rest of his Retinue. That day we went together to Bruges, the following to Gant, and the twenty five arrived at Brussels, where we stayed but two days, in which little time, to relate the many Visits, his Lordship received from Persons of the greatest Condition, as the Prince of Ligne, the Dukes of Arscott and Aury, etc. would equally weary the Reader, as they did my Noble Lord, who scarce in the mornings had time to make him ready, and was forced to give out, he was often gone abroad, to decline that respect, which, though due to his Lordship's great quality, was unseasonable then, since my Lord had many things to do in that place, where his stay was so short. I should likewise acquaint the Reader, how nobly and civilly my Lord was received by Marquis Castle Roderigo, the then Governor of that Country; but being to leave Brussels, I must post away to Waure, a double Post thence, and the place of our abode for that night. The next day we passed through Gibloix, Namur, Vive l' aigneau, Entim, and lay at Hoyne, which are all single Posts; and here began our lodging on Straw, which we were so familiar with afterwards. The first of March we posted to Lignier, through Grand-Champ, Flamizoule & Michamp, and quartered at Asselborne, the first four being single, and the last a double Post. Thence we passed to Artsfelt, next to Bickendorf, and afterwards to Binsfelt, all double Posts. Here we rested, if we could take any rest in a lodging, where there was not the least accommodation for repose. But what could we expect in so wild a Country, abounding with nothing but Hills, Dales and Woods, where we scarce met the face of a man, and for those of the feminine Sex, they well might be compared to bugbears, which made me think of often, and as often remember my Countrywomen, whom though I did always highly value, yet now I cannot estimate enough. As for our Horses, some of them were constantly taken from the Plough, and wearied with labour beforehand, so as 'tis no wonder we had so many falls. But one that had not ploughed that day, and so was more lusty and gamesome, got loose by an accident, and ran to the next Stage before us, so as two of our Company, (to help one another) were forced to ride by turns, and by turns to go a foot. And to mend the matter, our Guide in the night, though the Moon was very clear, like an Ignis fatuus misled us up and down, he could not tell whither, for which being rated severely, he was for a while so abominably unsavoury, there was no going near him. But at last, by good fortune, we lighted on a Village, where the Peasants were so rude, or so fearful at least (hearing so many Horsemen) that we could not extract a word from them, they putting out their Candles, and lying like Coneys in their Burroughs, till partly by threats, and partly by good words, I got in amongst them, and persuaded two of them, to show us the way to the neighbouring Posthouse; which at last taking heart, they ventured upon; but when we got thither, and they found with what kindness we used them, they repented themselves they had been so inhospitable to us. There we met with a Lutheran Parson, as full of Wine as Fat, whose Latin came from him in clusters, which showed he had doubled his Glasses. Thence we posted to Lizer, where we passed the Moselle, and because we were forced to stay there for Horses (which were fetched out of the fields from their work) we dined at that place, and had excellent Wine, which is all I can commend, besides the talking Host, who was a jolly fellow, and filled it with a grace, and drank it off as well. This our stay there retarded us so much, we could only arrive at Laufferswiler that night, two double Posts from Binsfelt. But of all the Postilion we had, I must needs tell the Reader of one, who formally appearing in his Ruff, his Cloak and highsteepled Hat, no sooner got up on his Horse, which was skittish, and had a Trunk behind him, but the Horse not enduring the rattling and weight of the Trunk, fell a kicking and dancing in that manner, that down went the Steeple, and the Cloak, Ruff and man had followed after, but that relief ran in, and his Wife cried to him, If you have not Hans a care, that Horse will throw you to the Devil. But Hans boldly venturing again, sat very demurely and gingerly, while we could do no less, than follow after and laugh, to see in what posture he sat, and how often his Hat was tossed into the air, and his gravity disordered. From Laufferswisel we passed through to Eckerswiler to Walstein, two double Posts thence, where because we could not find fresh Horses enough, his Lordship thought it good to separate his Company, he himself making choice of the Road to Rhinshowsen, and ordering his Brother, with the rest of the Retinue, to pass the Rhine at Mentz, and meet all together at Ratisbone. From Walstein therefore my Lord road to Hanguisen, which was a Post off, and lodged at a Village called Boveren, half a mile beyond Worms. On the fifth his Lordship posted through Frankendale to Mowda, thence to Spire, and so to Rhinshowsen, where he crossed the Rhine. The next place was Proussell, than Nitling, where there is a good Inn. Ensfinde, Canstat and Eberspoch succeeded, than Alderstat and Westerstet, Elskinger, Lowen and Donawert followed after, and ushered in Newburgh, where my Lord lay that night, and stayed the next day. The ninth his Lordship hired a Boat down the Danube to Ratisbone, intending his arrival there that night, but failing an hour, he lay three leagues short, and only got thither the next day at noon. Having brought my Lord to Ratisbone, and left him well there, give me leave to post back again to Walstein, to conduct his noble Brother to that place. We that were to road it through Frankford, departed from Walstein the fourth, and lay that night at Mentz a double Post off. The City is built near the Rhine, and the Seat of an Archbishop, and one of the Electors of Germany. Here we hired a Post-chariot, and passing the Rhine over a Bridge of Boats (for which we paid toll) arrived at Frankford, a great and goodly City, renowned for the Mart, and a double Post from Mentz. From Frankford we chariotted it again to the City of Hanow, which admits of no Inhabitants but those of the Calvinist Religion. The place is strong and neat, but of a short continuance, being built but some fourscore years since, and is a single Post from Frankford aforesaid. At Hanow we found another Chariot, which carried us to Tetting, a single Post thence, where we lodged that night. The sixth we passed Bessenback, a Post and a half, whence to Esselback (which is a double Post) we met with a Chariot and six Horses, all the rest having only had three, or four at the most. But here we had three men to attend us, one riding Postilion, another on a Horse next the Chariot, and the last running afoot, who changed by turns with the Postilion; and one thing I observed, when the Horses were weary all the three men would be sure to get up. In this manner we passed the Spessaert, a vast and thick Wood, full of overgrown Oaks, and belonging to the Elector of Mentz. From Esselback we crossed the River of Main, and lodged at Raulinghen, a single Post thence. Wirtzburgh we posted to next, where we passed the Main again, and on the right hand, saw a regular Fortress and House, appertaining to the Elector of Mentz aforesaid. This as Kitzinghem, Posthenhem, Launghenfelt and Emskerken, where we lodged that night, are all single Posts. But before I go farther, give me leave to look back, and tell the gentle Reader, that my Lord in his passage to Newburgh, saw a certain race of men, which fasten so their Breeches to their Doublets with Points, that as others use to put down their Breeches, they pull off their Doublets, to do the necessities of Nature. Fornback presented next itself, a single Post from Norimberg, a City of excellent Houses, and as excellently furnished, whose Town-Hall is an admirable Structure. Thence we passed to Faicht, Postbaw and Finingen all single Posts, where we took up our quarters. The ninth we road through Postberge and Labour, and at noon arrived at Ratisbone, all single Posts, where we met not with my Lord till the following day, for his Lordship went about, and out of the Post-road to this place. Having viewed the City, which is famous for little, but the Diet kept there, on the one and twentieth (for now I must observe the stile of the Country, for fear of mistakes) we hired a Boat for Vienna, and that night got to Strawbing. The next day we arrived at Vilshoven, this Town with the other appertaining to the Duke of Bavaria. Here the Servant attending at Supper, being asked his name, said nothing, but ran out of the Room, as if he had recourse to his Godfather, to inquire what it was, so dull and heavy are some of the ordinary people. The three and twentieth we lay at Odensham, a Town of the Emperors, where Otho was born. Here the Canopies of the Beds were so low, we could not sit upright, and the Beds placed so near one another, as no passing between, but side-long, and with difficulty. The Beds too and Cover are alike, being all soft Featherbeds, to stew in betwixt, but that for a remedy, the head is made so high, and the feet lie so low, that while your face is in the air, your legs are on the ground. Their Napkins are likewise extravagant, and no bigger than children's Pinner's, or at best but Pocket-handkerchiefs. In one of the Stews above stairs, you have commonly but one Bed, but the other is hospital-wise, and hath usually six or seven, and to mend the matter, a necessary House, which needs no Director to find it. A little before we came to St. Nicholas (some seven Leagues from Lince an Imperial Town) the Boat-men desired us to sit still, and we had indeed great reason so to do, for there between the Rocks, the Danube is contracted in that manner, that it runs most impetuously, and the water whirls about so in several places, as if through some Tunnel it emptied itself into a Gulf, and the Watermen assured us, that part of the Danube ran there under ground, disburthening itself afterwards in Hungary, where it made a great Lake, and this was confirmed, they said, by sinking a great Pole, with a proportionable weight fastened to it, which was afterwards found again in the Lake aforesaid. In our passage to Melke, where we lodged that night, we touched several times on the ground, and twice were constrained to disengage ourselves by labouring hard at the Oars, and one time were so fast, that we were in some hazard of staying all the night on the water. The five and twentieth we lay at Tulne, and the next day arrived at Vienna, the Capital City of Austria, and Residence of the Emperors of Germany, and during our Journey, from the time we departed from London, till two days after our arrival at Vienna aforesaid, being three weeks and four days, we had not any Rain. That day we repaired to the Golden-Hart, a great and goodly Inn, where my Lord lodged that night, but the next day Count Lesley, having not leisure to come himself, for he was to be present at the Emperor's Council, sent his Nephew, my Lord Hay, to compliment his Lordship, and carry him to his House; where Count Lesley highly welcomed my Lord, and after many Ceremonies, and great demonstrations of kindness and respect, carried his Lordship and his Brother to the House of the Earl of Trawne who is the Land Marshal where they had a noble Dinner. The eight and twentieth my Lord dined with Count Lesley, who by means of my Lord Hay, provided his Lordship of Lodgings near his House, and the next day with Count Dietrichstien the Emperor's Master of his Horse. The same day my Lord waited on the Emperor to the Convent of the Capucines, where his Imperial Majesty dined, the Princes and Lords of the greatest condition (as the custom is there) waiting on his Majesty, and walking afoot before his Coach. The thirtieth my Lord waited again on the Emperor, who dined that day with his Mother in Law the Empress, where his Lordship staying, till his Imperial Majesty had drunk his first draught (a Ceremony observed by Ambassadors themselves) retired, and dined with Count Lesley, attending after dinner on the Emperor, the Empress and Princesses, to a Park about a mile from Vienna, where his Majesty's Huntsmen enclosing some four acres of ground, with Canvas extended by Poles above a man's height, and a little way farther, with Canvas aforesaid, making a lane a breast high, by letting fall the Canvas towards the East, with Beagles hunted in at a time, some eight or ten Foxes, which coursed up and down, were by several Gentlemen, who had Nets in their hands for that purpose, of a foot and half wide, and between three and four yards long, tossed up into the air, as it were in several Blankets, as they ran up and down seeking places to escape. In this manner, and with Dogs and Sticks, they sacrificed seventy Foxes to the Emperor's pleasure, and afterwards baited and killed six Badgers. The one and thirtieth my Lord dined with the Earl of Staremberg the Marshal of the Court, and waited after dinner on the Emperor, who that day went afoot to a Church, about a mile from Vienna, where a Sepulchre, in imitation of that of our Saviour's at Jerusalem, is annually visited, and his Majesty kneeled and prayed by the way at five several stations. The first of April his Lordship dined with Count Lesley, where he constantly dined, unless he was invited to any other place, for still about noon, Count Lesley aforesaid sent his Coach for my Lord, to oblige him with with his Company at Dinner. The second of the month the Emperor and his Nobility received the blessed Sacrament, and his Majesty washed and kissed the feet o● twelve men, the youngest o● which was seventy years old, and the eldest one hundred and four; and among them all they made up the age of nine hundred and eighty seven years; to every one of whom he gave a Suit of black Cloth, a pair of Shoes and Stockings, and a Purse with some Money. At dinner they had each three Courses of Fish, and four Dishes at each Course, his Imperial Majesty waiting upon them; and when dinner was done, the youngest made a Speech to the Emperor, very gratefully acknowledging the honours they had received. That day our Saviour's Passion was represented in Italian, in Music, in the Church near the Court, and on the third at the Jesuits, where the Emperor was present, and his Majesty heard five several Sermons that day. The fourth the Emperor visited afoot the Churches and Sepulchers, in number thirty seven, at three of which the Passion of our Saviour was exhibited in Music. On Easter day his Imperial Majesty dined publicly, as he usually doth four times in the year, and at the first Course, only cold and blessed Meats are served in. The tenth my Lord, with his Brother, and several other Persons of Quality, accompanied Count Lesley to the Jesuits College, where they had a noble Dinner. The eleventh his Lordship dined with Count Roddols. The fourteenth at Earl Koningsecks, who was formerly Ambassador in England: And the fifteenth at the Count de Nosticks. The eighteenth his Lordship saw the Emperor ride the great Horse, and fourscore Colts backed by the Riders; as also his Majesty's Stables, where there were many brave and goodly Horses, to the number of one hundred and twelve. The nineteenth my Lord dined at Prince Portia's, and the twentieth at Count Altemms. The two and twentieth the Emperor (as he uses every year) retired to his Castle of Lauxembourgh, to fly at the Heron. The eight and twentieth his Lordship dined with Count Wallestein, and the following day with Count Montecuculo. The second of May with Marquis Pio, and the third with the Marquis of Baden. But now the Ambassador, together with his Comrades and their Retinue, being pompously and nobly apparelled after the Turkish fashion, in clothes of Gold and Silver, on the sixth of May, in a very solemn manner, road along through the Streets to the Emperor's Palace, the Windows of which were thronged with the Spectators of this sumptuous Cavalcade, which was in this order. First, Two Grooms of the Emperors. Secondly, The Quartermaster. Thirdly, Two Coriers. Fourthly, The Gentleman of the Horse. Fifthly, Eight led Horses, with noble and most rich Trappings and Furniture. Sixthly, Twelve Pages riding two and two together. Seventhly, Eight Trumpeters riding four and four abreast, and a Kettledrum in the middle. Eighthly, The Ambassador's Steward alone at the head of his Squadron. Ninthly, His Excellencies own Colours carried by one of his Gentlemen, between his Physician and Secretary, and followed by the rest of his Gentlemen, and others belonging to the Comrades of his Excellency, in number thirty and one. Tenthly, Twelve Footmen. Eleventhly, The Secretary of the Embassy, and Interpreter of his Imperial Majesty. Twelfthly, The Ambassador with four and twenty Halberdiers, twelve of which preceded, and the like number followed him. Thirteenthly, The Cavaliers, the Comrades of his Excellency, and the Emperor's Colours of Cloth of Silver embroidered, and carried by Count Sterhaimb, whose names here ensue. First, Count Herberstein. Secondly, My Lord Henry Howard. Thirdly, The Duke of Holstein incognito, and called the Baron of Binnendorff. Fourthly, Count Sterhaimb. Fifthly, Marquis Durazzo, a Genoveses. Sixthly, The Honourable Edward Howard of Norfolk. Seventhly, Marquis Pecori, a Florentine. Eighthly, The Baron of Finvekercken. Ninthly, Marquis Chasteauvieux, a Frenchman. Tenthly, Francis Hay Baron of Delgate, Nephew to the Ambassador. Eleventhly, The Baron of reach, Nephew to the Bishop of Munster. Twelfthly, Baron Coronini of Friuli. Thirteenthly, Baron Fin of the same Country. Fourteen, Baron Kornfeil of Austria. Besides, there were several Gentlemen of several Countries, as Signore Vincenzo Marchiao of Luca, Signore Casner of Austria, Signore Oversche of Holland, etc. Lastly came four Coaches with six Horses a piece, and his Excellency's Litter. One of the Coaches was nobly guilt and furnished, which his Excellency presented, with the Horses, to the Grand Signior at Adrianople. The Cavalcade being over, we continued in Vienna till the five and twentieth of May, during which time, my Lord was feasted as formerly, for on the twelfth he dined with Count Sincsindorff, Presidente della Camera, and the fifteenth with Count d' Iterstein. The seventeenth my Lord went to Lauxenbourg, and dining▪ with Prince▪ Lobkoviz, waited after dinner on the Emperor, and saw him Hawk at the Heron, and kill four that day. The nineteenth his Lordship dined with the Marquis of Baden, and on the two and twentieth he went in the Company of the Marquess' Durazzo and Pecori, and his Brother, to see the hot Baths, some four Leagues distant from Vienna, whither Persons of Quality, as Earls and Countesses, very frequently resort, who go all together into the same Bath, but with this distinction, that the men keep on one side, and the women on the other. The men go with Drawers and their Shirts, wearing black leather Caps, with Buttons on the top, for the easier saluting of the Ladies and Gentlemen, when they come into the Bath. They have several Laws, and the forfeitures go to the Poor, and commonly the Women are very great sticklers, for exacting and levying of the same. But since I must soon leave Vienna, for the five and twentieth instant is the day of our departure, I think it not amiss to give you a little description of the place. Vienna, the Metropolis of Inferior Austria, is seated near a branch of the Danube, the famousest River of Europe. The Geographical latitude is forty eight degrees and twenty minutes, and the longitude forty. The figure of the City is not perfectly round, but inclining much to it. The circuit about five thousand Geometrical paces, which with an easy walk may be compassed in an hour and a half. 'Tis strong, and well fortified, and if as well provided of men, and all things appertaining to a Siege, will hardly be taken. The Houses are goodly and large, and commonly have great Cellars for stowage of their Wines, which are in that abundance in this City, that vulgarly they say (and perhaps without vanity) there is more Wine than Water at Vienna, though the City hath many fair Fountains and Wells. The said Wine is carried into Bohemia, Silesia, Superior Austria and Bavaria, Saltzburg, and several other places. By the help of their Stoves, they have fresh and green Salads in the Winter, so as in a very strange season of the year, when the Country is covered with Snow, they have Lettuces and Herbs in very great plenty in the Markets. There are four great Piazzo's in the City, which are beautified and adorned with Marble Fountains and Statues. In one, called by excellency, The Piazzo, two Fairs are yearly kept, to which in great throngs, from all parts of Germany, the Merchant's resort. There are many Prince's Palaces, many Religious Houses of both Sexes, together with many Churches, though far more conspicuous for their neatness, than vastness of fabric. The Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Stephen, whose Steeple is about four hundred sixty and five foot high, all consisting of hewn Stone, and carved into various figures of Men, Birds and Beasts, which are fastened together with Irons. The Suburbs are bigger than the City, not for the number of the Inhabitants, which are scarce twenty thousand, and the City hath fourscore thousand Souls, but the largeness of the territory: And though there are many wooden Houses, where the poorer sort dwell, yet the Monasteries and Churches may well be compared to those in the City. Besides, there are many fair Buildings of Princes, and the richer sort of Citizens, with very fine Gardens, where you can desire nothing, that is either for pleasure or profit. But amongst all the Gardens, the Empresses, called Favorith, exceeds far the rest, for that in other Gardens is scattered and dispersed, is here found united and collected. In one of the Suburbs, seated in an Island of the Danube, the Jews do inhabit, who with Board's, and a piece of a Wall, are divided from the Christians that live in the said Suburbs. The said Island is joined to the City with a wooden Bridge, which commonly every year is broken and thrown down by the Ice; and there is a Park in it, abounding with tall Trees, and Herds of Deer and Boars, which wander up and down in a tame and fearless manner; and there is too a Walk four thousand paces long, with Trees on both sides, which reacheth to a place called Gruen-lusthouse. Some two or three miles from the City, a Structure, called Naugebeu, was erected by Rodolphus the Second, which, as you approach it, appears not like a Garden, but rather a City of Towers, which, together with the Walks, supported by Arches, is covered with Copper-plates, and was built in imitation and memory of Solyman the Magnificent's Tent, which he pitched in that place, when he came with the design of besieging Vienna. Besides many things that deserve to be seen, there's a Well of a strange work, out of which they draw Water with three hundred sixty and five Buckets, as likewise fair Fountains with Alabaster Statues, together with Lions and Tigers kept there in a place for that purpose. About the same distance from Vienna is Schoenbrun, encompassed with a Wall, where there is a shady Wood on a pleasant ascent, and a fine Plain below. The House is beautified with Pictures, and the Garden very curious, whither the Empress retires, when she goes into the Country. I omit the rest, as Lauxenburg, Mariabrun, Ebersdorffe, and other sweet places, as remoter from the City. The Inhabitants, generally speaking, are courteous and affable, and as well bred as any in Germany, by reason of the Court, and the concourse of French and Italians, whose behaviour and fashion they happily emulate: And many, besides their own Tongue, and the Latin (which they speak very fluently) speak Italian and French. The University of Vienna, renowned through all Germany, is not the least Ornament of the City, it having great splendour and power: For besides many Privileges indulged by the Emperors, and several Arch-duke's, it hath power of life and death, not only over them that actually study, but a great part of the City and Neighbourhood, for the Doctors in the Town, the Stationers, Engravers, Bookbinders, Apothecaries, Chirurgeons, and those too, who attain indirectly to Learning, are subject to the Academical Tribunal, where the Causes of Pupils and Widows, and some appertaining to Matrimony, are heard and determined. The Territory of Vienna is plain, yet rising in some places into easy Hills planted with Vines. It produceth Wheat enough for the Inhabitants, as also Rye, Barley, Millet-seed and Pease, Chestnuts too and Almonds, Peaches, Quinces and many sorts of Apples and Pears, and excellent Saffron, but neither Figs, Olives, or Lemons, unless extraordinary industry, and diligence be used. And every thing growing there, smells somewhat of Brimstone, for the Soil is sulphureous. The Air is sharp in the Winter, in so much as not only the Waters, which are standing and immovable, but the Danube itself is frequently frozen, and serves as it were for a Bridge to the Coaches and Carts. The vigour of that Season they expel with their Stoves, in which they have the Spring, together with the Summer and Autumn at their pleasure. The Summer is temperate, and yet hot enough to ripen their Fruits. They have frequent Winds, which, if they cease long in the Summer, the Plague ensues often, so as they have a Proverb, If Austria be not windy, it is subject to Contagion. The Plague, when it comes there, is commonly in Autumn, and seldom spreads much, as it doth in other places, in regard of the exquisite diligence they use to prevent it, and the coldness of the Winter approaching, which quickly suppresseth the force of that Poison. The things of curiosity, that deserve to be seen in the City, are the Emperor's Treasure, the Archduke's Gallery, the Church and Steeple of Saint Stephen, the Treasure of the Church, and the Sepulchre of Otho, as likewise the Arsenals, the College and professed House of the Jesuits, the Church and Convent of the Benedictines, the Bishop's Palace, the Church and Convent of the Dominicans, with that of the Franciscans, where they show a Hole of Strangers, through which, as they affirm, the Devil once carried away a sacrilegious Person, and it never could be closed up again. In the Suburbs, Favorith is worthy to be seen, as likewise the Garden of the Bishop, the House and Garden of the Earl of Traun, with those of the Prince of Aversperg, and others. Nor is the Church and Monastery of the Carmelites, nor that of the Augustine's, with the Hermitage of the Capucines, the little Spanish Monastery, and the Convent of the Servi, to be unregarded. In fine, Vienna is little within the Walls, but as beautiful, as strong, and abounds not with only what Austria and Hungary affords, but that too which Italy can contribute. The Markets are most plentifully supplied, and there's great store of Flesh, and freshwater Fish, especially Crawfish, which are in that abundance, as 'tis almost incredible. And 'tis too as strange, to one that doth not know it, how infamous a killer of Dogs is reputed at Vienna, which, being the Office of the Hangman, or his Deputies (who on Wednesdays and Fridays go seeking for Dogs, and kill all that are not privileged with Collars) makes the Party so hated and contemned, that none will keep him company. BUt to think of our journey into Turkey, on the five and twentieth instant, my Lord dined with the Prince of Lichtenstein, in the company of his Excellency Count Lesley, who that day departed from Vienna about three of the Clock, all the Persons of Quality, that accompanied him in that Embassy, following him to the Waterside, in Coaches with six Horses apiece, but the throngs of Spectators were so great (for never the like Embassy was seen in Vienna) they could scarce get to the Barks, which, though large, and six and thirty in number, were but sufficient for his Excellency and his Company, which amounted to two hundred twenty and two. His Excellency's Bark was bigger, and much handsomer than the rest, and having eight Trumpeters and a Kettledrum aboard it, which sounded all the way▪ and beautified with variety of Streamers, drew all the eyes thither. In this manner, and in order (for one Bark followed another, according to the quality of the Persons within it) we arrived at Vischen, some four leagues from Vienna, on the right hand of the Danube, whither the Prince of Dietrichstein, and the Earl of Trauttmansdorff waited on the Ambassador; and here we all lodged in the Boats, as we did all along to Belgrade, his Excellency, and the Cavaliers with him, having Beds in the Barks, and all accommodation very suitable to their quality▪ We departed the next morning about seven of the Clock, and passing by Petronel, Taben and Haimburg, arrived at Presburgh about noon, whither his Excellency was welcomed by the Canon from the Castle, and received and complemented at the Waterside, by the Palatine or Viceroy Vesselleni, who, accompanied by Count Palsi and other Hungarian Lords, had eight Coaches in readiness for his Excellency, and the Persons of Quality with him, whom he carried to his Pleasure-house, in a Garden without the Town, and feasted most magnificently. Presburg, the Metropolis now of Hungary, is an old and neat Town, and pleasantly seated. In the Suburbs, on a high Mountain, is a very strong Castle, where the Regal Crown is kept, and below in the bottom, on both sides the Danube, most large and happy Pastures are presented to the eye. The Kingdom of Hungary (to speak a little of it, now we are on the Place) was formerly extended from the Pontic Sea to Austria, and from Poland to the Adriatic Gulf, containing within it ten very large Kingdoms, which as Feudators depended on that Crown, so as the King of Hungary was then an Arch-King. But from the year of our Lord, one thousand three hundred and ninety six, to this our present Age, it hath been much and often afflicted with intestine Contentions and Discords, so as the better part is subject to the Turks, it only retaining a very small figure of the ancient Liberty, Dignity and Greatness it had, and having scarce now as many strong Cities, as it formerly had Kingdoms. On the East it hath Transylvania, on the West Austria and Styria, on the North the Carpathian Mountains, Poland and Moravia, and on the South the River Drove and Croatia. The Meadows are so luxuriant, that the Grass in many places almost equals the stature of a man, and they have such store of cattle, that they send very many into Italy, Germany, and other remote Countries, and only on the way to Vienna, 'tis reported, that fourscore thousand Oxen were driven one year into Germany. It abounds with Fowl and wild Beasts, which the Peasants have liberty to kill; for Fish they have store, which the Rivers of Hungary are full of, especially the Besch, of which it is commonly said, two parts of it are Water, and the third Fish. The Soil is most fruitful, for what in other Country's is produced with labour and charge, flows here with more ease, and without the Art of dressing and manuring the Ground. It hath several sorts of Vines, and some for the delicacy not inferior to the Italian. Of all sorts of Metals it hath store, (Tin only excepted) and the Gold they get out of the Mountains, is compared to, and preferred before the Arabian, and that of Peru. But the Hungarians, from the highest to the lowest, are generally as bad as the Country is good, being treacherous to one, another, and haters of Strangers. And this may be enough of the Kingdom of Hungary. On the seven and twentieth in the morning, we following the course of the Danube, arrived at a little Island about noon, and dined aboard the Barks; whence departing after dinner, we passed by Alfenburg, some four by Land, but by Water ten Leagues distant from ●resburg, by reason of the turnings and windings of the River. The next place was Wiselburg, which is seated on the right hand of the Danube, over against the Isle of Schutt. The next morning early we prosecuted our Journey, and passing by the Villages of Kymela, St. Paul, Petceier, and Samring, in a Meadow, some half a League from Raab, we disimbarqued and dined. After dinner we advanced to the Fortress of Raab aforesaid, where the Ambassador was saluted in this manner: On the right hand three Troops of the Hussars, or Hungarian Horse stood ranged in order, together with three Companies of the Heyducks, or Foot, and three Companies of Germane Musketeers. Besides, the Bastions commanding the River, were filled with the Soldiers of the Garrison, and had all the Guns planted and in readiness, so as when his Excellency's Bark approached the Fortress, they so regularly gave fire, that the Bastions all seconded one another in a moment, as the Horse and Foot did, which discharged three times. His Excellency was entreated to lodge in the Town, and pressed the more, in regard the night came on, but he urging, that (besides his Imperial Majesty's Commands, to pursue with all diligence his Journey) the Turkish Ambassador impatiently expected him, at the place of the interview and exchange, excused himself from accepting then that Honour, which he promised to receive at his return out of Turkey. These Compliments ended, the Ambassador went on without further stay, and passed by Marhoffen, the first Village Tributary to both the Emperors, and a League from Comorro. The next day General Souches, the Governor of the place, sent fourteen Boats to meet and wait on the Ambassador, in eight of which were Heyducks, and Germans in the rest. These Boats were of the fashion of little Galleys, long and narrow, and had thirteen Oars on a side: The back-end resembled our Barges, but was rather hooped up, as our Watermen do their Boats, for two or three to sit on a side, and they carry before, some two, some three little Field-pieces, which shoot at a great distance; and along on either side stand as many Pikes as Oars, each Pike having a little Flag upon it, which is the Arms for Horsemen, as well for the Turks as Hungarians. At his Excellency's arrival they discharged the Field-pieces and Muskets in the Boats, and six & thirty Canon from the new Fortress of Comorra. In the mean time General Souches came out of the Town to the Danube, and going aboard the Ambassador's Boat, first saluted and complemented him, and the Cavaliers afterwards, conducting them all into the Fortress, at the entrance into which they were welcomed with twenty great Guns, discharged from the inward Fort, and likewise with the Volleys of three Companies of Heyducks, one Troop of Hussars, and two Companies of Germans. In this manner the Ambassador was received into the Governors' Residence, out of which, through a Gallery, he passed to the Works, to take a little view of the Fortifications of the Place, while all things were drepared for his better entertainment, and his Retinues at dinner, which was splendid and magnificent; and the Canon of the Fortress, being sixty brass Pieces, all roared like thunder at the many Healths they drank, for each Health of consequence was attended by three Cannon. At night General Souches, to show all imaginable respect to the Ambassador, entertained him with rare Fireworks, not only disposed on each side of the Danube, but placed too (by the help of some Boats) in the middle of the River, which succeeded so happily, that generally the Spectators received all content and satisfaction. The Fortress of Comorro is of a triangular form, and seated in an Angle of the Isle of Schutt, between the Rivers Danube and Waage. The Garrison of the place, in that 'tis so considerable a Bulwark against the Mahometans, consists most of Germans, whom the Governor rather trusts than the Natives. The next morning about ten of the clock, being embarked, and all ready to depart, General Souches (who accompanied the Ambassador) ordered fourteen Barks to tow us to the other side of the River, while five and twenty Cannon were discharged from the Fortress, and all the small Guns in the boats. Here we made a halt, a little short of a Village called Sennack, the first of the Territories of the Turks, where we made a hasty Dinner, and immediately afterwards all landed for the interview. The Turks coming by land, were on horseback, and many as ill horsed as clad. Their Wagons and Baggage stayed a little behind them, as our Barks likewise did, which though but thirty six, made much the better show, especially by the addition of General Souches Boats. The Turks as we landed lighted off their Horses, their number being less than two hundred, and ours under three, but they agreed on both sides to meet with a less number. We saw before us, as the Turks before them, three great Posts erected for Boundaries and limits of the borders, the middle of which was the mark of the confines. About twenty paces nearer to each other, we drew up to our Posts on each side, while the mutual Guards of four Troops of Horse on a side, stood facing one another. Each Ambassador then departed at the same time from his Post, and so arrived together at that in the middle, each being accompanied only with ten of his chiefest Comrades. General Souches was on the Ambassador's right hand, and Commissary Feichtinger on the left, his Excellency's Train being born by two Gentlemen of the Country. The Turkish Ambassador Mahomet Bashaw, though he actually performed not the Office of Bassa, yet being of the Council of War, was held in great esteem with the Turks, and accompanied with the Bassa of Alba Regalis, some Begues an Aga and Janissaries, which said Bassa of Alba Regalis, the Grand Signior sent expressly to vie with the Emperor's pompous Embassy, since no Ambassador had the honour before, to have an actual Bassa for his Commissary. The two Ambassadors meeting at the Post aforesaid, complemented each other by an Interpreter, and enquiring of the healths of their Masters, with their reciprocal wishes of a durable Peace, joined hands, and departed, the Bassa of Alba Regalis conducting his Excellency to his Boat, and General Souches consigning the Turkish Ambassador to Commissary Feichtinger, and the Hungarian Convoy. This Ceremony ended, the Christians and Turks began to sound Trumpets, and beat Kettledrums in testimony of their joy, we entering again into our Boats, which were manned by Turks (for the Christian Watermen returned now back) and the Turkish Ambassador pursuing his journey by Land. In our passage to Strigonium, called vulgarly Gran, a Garrison of the Turks, where we arrived that night, and were welcomed by the Cannon, and several Volleys of Shot; the Mahometan Watermen, who towed us down the Stream, in expressions of their gladness, often cried out like madmen, and uttered uncouth words of Mahomet their Prophet. The Turkish Soldiers that guarded us (for we lay without the Town) were civil and courteous, so as we conversed and walked familiarly among them. That night after Supper, two of our Barks untied from the rest, and driving down the Stream towards the Bridge (where they who were within apprehended some danger, in regard of the swiftness of the Current) occasioned great confusion and horror. But the Storm was soon appeased, for the Soldiers came readily to our help, and relieved and secured us, ere the Barks arrived the Bridge. The Governor of Gran, accompanying the Turkish Ambassador a part of his way, returned back late the same night, in so much that he visited not Count Lesley till the following morning, and then he came on horseback, and very well attended his Horse's Furniture being noble and rich, with a Bag of Taffeta about his Neck, wherein were Horses tails, which none but those of quality are permitted to have. This Begue, (who is said to be the Favourite of the Bassa of Newheusel, who procured him that Government) sent his Excellency a Present of Wines, four Cows, some Fowl, Fish and other Provisions. Count Lesley, though he returned not the Governors visit, yet sent him by Count Herberstein, and the Baron of Finvekercken, some Sweetmeats, a Clock, and a pair of Pistols, which he courteously received, with the discharge of some great Guns, in honour of the Ambassador, and when he had treated them with Coffee and Sherbet, and led them round the Walls of the Castle, he civilly dismissed them, not without a great sense of the favour done to him. This morning the Bassa of Alba Regalis asked leave of the Ambassador to go wait on the Visier of Buda, and inform him of his Excellency's motion and advance, to the end he might have all things in readiness for his better reception. The one and thirtieth being Sunday, his Excellency heard Mass in a Tent▪ in a very open place before the Turks (having all along before still heard it in his Bark) and departed after dinner; and while we were traversing the River, to pass the Bridge of Boats, the Garrison of Gran gave us twenty great Guns. Between two and three leagues of this place, we passed by Vicegrade, a ruinous Castle on the top of a Hill, with a Town in the bottom of that name. In our passage they discharged eight Cannon, which by reason of the turnings and windings of the Danube among the Rocks and Woods, made a terrible noise. The River near this place dividing itself, makes a very considerable Island, as well for the largeness, as fertility of the place. That night we lay near Vacia, a City much decayed, and formerly the Seat of a Bishop, which from the time of Solyman the Magnificent, in the space of a hundred and thirty years, had changed its Master twenty times▪ and had often been plundered, and once set on fire. The first of June in the morning, we arrived at Buda, formerly the Metropolis and Royal Residence of Hungary, and indeed for the pleasant situation, a place truly Regal, having on the one side Hills fruitful in Vines, and large and rich Meadows on the other, with the Danube gliding by them. The place looks as designed for the Empire of Hungary, and though formerly beautified with many noble Fabrics, now ruinous and decayed, being inhabited for the most part by Soldiers, who looking no farther than the date of their lives, make shift for their time, and so they lie but dry, and secure themselves and Horses from the injury of the Wether, 'tis all they regard; and indeed all along as we traveled, and even at Constantinople itself, the Houses in general are mean. Here the Ambassador at his landing was ushered into a Royal Tent, most sumptuously prepared for that purpose by the Kehaia, or Grand Viziers Steward, a Person of worth and civility, and when he had dined, the Visier of Buda sent the next in office under him, to visit and compliment his Excellency, who came with a splendid Retinue. The Ambassador sat in State in a Chair, the Bassa▪ with his Excellency's Comrades, sitting like Tailors on Carpets, or standing as they pleased, only my Lord and Count Herberstein had the privilege of sitting on a great Cushion by the Ambassador's side. They passed near two hours in this manner, while the Horse and Foot ranged along the Shore▪ to the number of five thousand, marched into the City near his Excellency's Tent▪ and a barbarous noise of Tabers, Drums, Trumpets and Cymbals, with other warlike Instruments of joy resounded in all places. In the Emperor's special order, that in case Count Lesley miscarried in the Journey, he might supply his place. Next to this Gentleman, my Lord had priority, not for the merit of his birth (though all looked upon him in the quality of a Duke, according to the custom of Germany) but by reason of his Lordship's rare parts and endowments. For though the Ambassador had of his Retinue, many Persons of eminent condition, of several Christian Nations, as particularly the Duke of Holstein, who being an absolute Prince, had right to the precedence of all the Cavaliers, yet still in all occurrences my Lord was preferred. These said Lords on Horses, which the Visier of Buda had sent, road along to the Town, accompanied by another Visier, and several Guards of Janissaries, together with the Interpreter and Secretary of the Embassy. As soon as they alighted at the Palace, they were first carried up, and received in the public place of audience, till the Visier was advertised of their coming, and then they were strait ushered in, and placed face to face against him, and sat in Chairs of Velvet, as he did, such as are used in Christendom, which is an extraordinary favour and grace among the Turks. All they desired, the Visier granted readily, and treating them civilly, and clothing them with Caftans (which resemble Porters Cloaks, with long sleeves to the ground, and the arms thrust out of the slits, and are of a Stuff like Italian Brocadoes, of Thread and Silk with a mixture of Silver) dismissed them with abundance of ceremony and kindness. That evening as the Ambassador was at Supper in his Tent, the Turks stood gaping and staring extremely, to whom the Gavaliers gave Sweetmeats and Biscuits (for they love Sugar dearly) and some of the Bassa's, and the Aga (who that night commanded the Guard) sat down with his Excellency, and drank Wine as freely as any at the Table. The Turks were strangely pleased with the Ambassador's Music, both the vocal and instrumental, and indeed they had reason, for theirs is the worst in the World. One of them played on a Cittern, and sang before his Excellency, but it was like Tom a Bedlam, only a little sweetened with a Portugal like Mimikry. And the Music most esteemed among the Soldiery, is the shrillest and squeakingest Trumpet that ever was heard, and a Bagpipe-like Instrument, such as accompanies the Jackanapes to the Bear-garden, with other ill Pipes and Oboes, approaching the nearest to our worst City-Waits. The third of June his Excellency had audience, and accordingly that morning, the worst of the Turks, and the meanest of the Ambassador's Retinue, marched foremost two by two, but the Christians by themselves, only the chiefest Cavaliers had each to his Companion a Bassa, who road on the left hand, the best place esteemed for Soldiers by them, as the right among Scholars. The Prime Colonel of the Janissaries road before the Ambassador, and alone, with a huge and flat white Feather, like an old and large Queen Elizabeth's Fan, but four times as wide, and the corner forward, not flat. There walked too afoot before his Excellency, a bellows-mouthed and butcherlike fellow, who made a hideous noise all along, which called the Boys together, and caused young and old to repair to the Windows, to be Witnesses and Spectators of the show, which doubtless the Women (who looked out at Iron-grates, and are kept in great slavery) were very glad to see, for indeed it was pompous. In the Gate, where we entered, we saw a strong Guard, and on both sides of the Streets, all along to the Palace of the Visier, the Janissaries stood in Arms, which were excellently good, especially the Gun and Musket: They are short, but wide bored and heavy, and carry twice the charge of those we have in England, and many of the Janissaries had Coats of Male down to their Knees. The Visier of Buda received the Ambassador, as he had done my Lord and Count Herberstein before, but with more of the same stile and state. His Excellency and the Visier only sat, the Cavaliers and Turks standing round, and the Room, though very large, was so crowded and thronged, there was scarce any stirring from one place to another. The Compliments ended, and the Visier receiving the Ambassador's Presents, gave sixty Caftans to his Excellency and his Followers, which we put on over the rest of our Clothes, and so road back as we came, being sixty Horse only, for the Visier gave but sixty Caftans, but the Footmen had distributed among them as many yards of Cloth, of red and purple colours, as served to make Vests for each. The four Bassa's, with the Aga and Begue, which accompanied the Ambassador to, and from the Visier, dined that day with his Excellency, and drinking very plentifully of the Wine, pocketed up in their Breasts (where they carry several things as in Pockets) abundance of Sweetmeats and Sugar-plums. Here the poorer sort of People wear no Turbans, but Caps with, or without Fur, according to their ability, and all the Women generally (those only excepted that are old or very young) have their Faces muffled with Linen, so as little is seen but their Eyes, and a part of their Noses. They have no Clocks, but at certain times of the day, some Persons appointed for the same, for which they have a Salary, go up into a kind of Balcone round the Steeple of the Mosches or Churches, and with a noise, hideous enough to affright all unacquainted with the sound, cry aloud, how the day doth pass away. Every great Person buys, and hath a kind of Standard, which is carried before him when he rides, or stuck in his Boat, like a small Mast or May pole, when he goes by Water, for which he pays a thousand Dollars to the Visier, chief Bassa, or Governor of the place he belongs to, and 'tis no more than six or seven Horse's tails died of several Colours, and hung round the top of the Pole aforesaid. The Soldiers too use these kinds of Standards as Cornets. In the Palace at Buda are several Courts, and in one a fair Fountain of Marble, with a Basin, or huge Shell of Brass, with the Arms of the Kings of Hungary, supported with Snails of that Metal. On the right hand are the Stairs, the upper part of which hath Rails and Ballestres of Porphyry. The Dining-room is prodigiously great, and the Windows proportionable, with the Jaumes of red Marble, as the Chimney-piece is, which is curiously carved and rich, and at the end of the said Dining-room is a noble square Chamber. About the said Palace many pieces of Brass are enclosed in several places apart, which the Turks admit not Christians to see, unless by some particular favour. The hot Bath here (for which Buda is celebrated) hath the Pavement of Marble, and the Fountain that feeds it is so luxuriant in Water, that what runs in waste drives two Powder-mills, and a Corn-mill. The Pond, where the Spring rises, is said to have Fish, which if true, may be said to be parboiled, but Frogs I saw in it. The chief Bath is so hot, that it presently causeth Sweat, and is very much frequented. Before your Eye can find it, you enter a square Room, with Windows on both sides, and light from the top, with places erected from the ground, and covered with Mats and Carpets, to repose on after bathing, with a place in the middle for the Clothes of the ordinary People, and round about the Room hang Clothes in the nature of Aprons, which the Bathers put before them, and persons there attending do furnish them with, who, while they are bathing, do wash their Boots or Shoes, the way the Turks use for making them clean. Having bathed enough, and dressed themselves again, on a Stall, that is covered with Carpets, the Receiver of the Money sits demanding his due, which is inconsiderably little. But to return to the City (for the Bath is without the Town) Buda is at present in so tattered a condition, that could Solyman the Magnificent return from the dead, he would change and recant his Opinion, of thinking it the fairest City in the World. And as for the Library, which the Visier permitted to be seen, and formerly was the glory of the World, for it had a thousand Volumes of rare and choice Books, of excellent Authors of the Eastern Church, how poor a thing 'tis now, and how much disagreeing with the fame and ancient lustre it had, since the few Books it hath are of little or no use, being almost consumed by Moths, Dust and Rats. During our stay here, I visited a Turkish Convent, where some Religious Persons, called Dervis, inhabited, who live all in common, and have only what they get, each being of one Trade or other. They live morally well, and do no wrong to any, and while they live in common, they are not to marry, but if they take a Wife, they retire and live apart, however they continue still religious, and meet in their Cloisters on Fridays and Tuesdays, the days of their Devotion and Ceremonies. They receive and lodge Travellers, and what they have to eat, give them freely part of it, and usually have a Fountain at the door, with a Wooden-dish fastened to a Chain, with which they give Water to Passengers, and indeed the Turks generally are hospitable to Strangers. There are other Religious men among the Turks, which are known by the name of Santons, but are Vagabonds and poor, and addicted to all sorts of Vices, and particularly to Sodomy, yet many of the Turks are so senseless and blind, to hold them for Saints. Over against Buda (where a Dutch man, a Painter of our Company, who was sick of a Fever, leapt into the Danube, and was drowned) is the ruinous City of Pest, where there is a little Convent of Franciscans, and several poor Christians, who often are subject to many affronts and insolences of the Turks, especially when in Wine, which albeit prohibited by their Law, yet many make bold with, especially the younger sort of people, who indulge themselves the more, since they are of Opinion, that their punishment after death is the same, and not greater, if they drink but a little, or much, so as once having tasted of Wine, they use to drink on, having less restraint afterwards upon them. And 'tis said, an old Turk in Constantinople, when he had a Cup of Wine in his hand, and was about to drink it, first cried out aloud, and asked, why he did so, replied, that he admonished his Soul to retire into some corner of his Body, or vanish for a time, that it might not be polluted with the Wine he was drinking. From Buda we descended to Adam and Tschankurtaran, whither Solyman the Magnificent, when he raised his Siege from Vienna, made all the haste he could, not thinking himself out of danger, till he got to that place, which he called, The refreshing of his Soul. Thence we came to Basoka, and passing by Pentole and Fodwar, arrived at Tolna. The next place was Waia, than Mohachz, from whence we saw the Castle of Zetzchuy, the ancient Seat of the illustrious Family of the Palfi. This Town was very fatal to Hungary by the loss of King Lodowick, in order to whose death various things are reported. The Plain where the Battle was fought is about half a League from the place, and as large, as free from Wood, and Encumbrances of that sort, but the River Carassus glides gently between, whose Water moves so slowly, it hardly seems to stir. Hither the King fled, whom the darkness of the night, and the fear of his Enemies pursuing, gave not time to explore and sound the miry passage, into which his Horse rushing, and falling, stifled him with the weight of his Armour. Many of the Nobility, together with six Bishops, and ten thousand Horse, and twelve thousand Foot, are said to have perished in that Battle, in memory of which slaughter, Solyman, who was present at the fight, caused a Fabric of Wood to be erected, which remains to this day, and now only serves as a retreat to the Beasts from the heat of the Sun. The tenth we went to Wilack, and the next day to Erdeod, where the Annunciation of our blessed Lady continues in painting. The twelfth we came to Valkovar, where in the River Valpus (which abounds with good Fish) a dead Body came swimming down the Stream. The next place was Illock, where we saw the Sepulchre of a Son of the King of Bosnia, together with the ruins of a Monastery. Hence we passed by Petrovaradine to Salankemen, a City and Castle very pleasantly seated, and proud with old Buildings. Here (where the Tibiseus is joined to the Danube) we stayed till the Couriers (who often went betwixt the said place and Belgrade) had adjusted all the Ceremonies for the Ambassador's reception. Signore Giovanni Battista Casanova, the Emperor's new Resident for Turkey, came hither after dinner from Belgrade, to wait on his Excellency, and discourse about all things, in order to his entrance and stay in that Town, whither the Ambassador was welcomed by the roaring of the Cannon, the Volleys of the Soldiers, and Shouts of the People, who flocked in that manner to see us come ashore, that the Town was quite unfurnished of Inhabitants. Two thousand or more were in Arms at our landing (for not Belgrade alone, but other little Towns, though with less ostentation, came out to receive us) but not all fit for service, for some were decrepit, and others too young, whose Fathers the year before had been drowned in the fatal River of Raab in Hungary. These wearing the Caps of Janissaries, supplied their Father's places, and with their Arms across, and Countenances dejected, stood among the other Soldiers. And though in appearance they might seem born for no other end, than to eat up the Fruits of the Earth, yet from their tender age they have a martial Spirit instilled into them, from which the Nerves and Sinews of the Ottoman Empire derive their force and vigour. The Camycan or Governor of the Town, the Capigi-Basha, and the Hassan-Aga of the Bedchamber to the Sultan (whom the Prime Visier had ordered to attend the Ambassador) congratulating his arrival, conducted him to his Tents, which were pitched on the side of a Hill, not far from the River, where his Excellency rather chose to remain, than to lodge in the City, whose prospect from Salankemen is most pleasant and delightful, as is the situation, the place being washed by two great and famous Rivers, the Sava and the Danube, where the former soon looseth its name. Our passage from Vienna to Belgrade was with very much ease, accommodation and delight, for we went down the Stream, and when we came to Land, as in the afternoons we continually did) the Turks, to show how welcome we were, made us Arbours and Bowers to secure us from the Sun. After Supper we walked usually on the Shore, and sometimes strayed a little, invited and transported with the verdure of the place, and the many pleasant Objects we met with. The Boats lying one by one, took up much space of ground, and looked like some Navy at Anchor, while the Passengers going to and from them, appeared a little Army, and 'twas pretty to hear them inquire of one another for their Vessels, which when they had lost, they were forced to use a figure to find, for the Boats were distinguished by numbers. 'Twas likewise not unpleasant to walk among the Turks and the Greeks, and see them dress their Meat in the Fields, and sleep about the Fires they had made, which commonly were great, there being much Wood, and do restraint on any that cut it. Belgrade (which is seated at the confluence of the Danube and Sava aforesaid, and on that side, where 'tis joined to the Land, hath the Castle) was first besieged by Amurath, and afterwards by Mahomet, who took Constantinople, but the Hungarians and other Christians defending it stoutly, the Turks were repelled with a considerable loss. At length Solyman, in the beginning of his reign, finding it unprovided of men, and consequently unfit to hold out a Siege, by the negligence of Lodowick the young King of Hungary, and the variance and dissensions of the Nobility, and others, reduced it with much ease into his power. The Suburbs (where several Nations, as Greeks, Jews and others inhabit) are spacious and great, and usually in the Confines of Turkey, the Suburbs are greater than the Cities themselves. Here while we remained, his Excellency was visited by the Ambassadors of Ragusa, which commonly go in pairs to the Ottoman Court. They came on horseback with forty Attendants, all waiting upon them afoot, two only excepted, and were quartered in the Town, which with Janissaries we had liberty to see, for 'tis unsafe for Strangers to go by themselves, and withal we were commanded to the contrary, as likewise in cases of affronts from the Turks, to support them with a Christian Magnanimity and patience. The Christians of Belgrade, not accustomed to see so many persons together, of the same faith with them, especially of Quality, were transported with joy at the Ambassador's arrival, and 'tis not imaginable with what great affection they received us in their Houses, particularly a Greek Merchant, Signore Marco Manicato, who showing us all sort of harmless liberty and freedom, made us excellent Cheer, and producing his best Wines, did put us in mind of the ancient merry Greeks, for he drinking like a Fish, and beating a Drum betwixt while with his bare Fingers only, and singing to it, was so pleasant and jocund, that he flung, as we usually say, the House out of the Windows. His Drum was remarkable, for 'twas only a huge Earthen-bottle in fashion like a wide-neck Ale-jug, with the bottom out, whose top was only covered and stopped with thin Velum or Parchment, and on this, with his Fingers, he made a pleasing noise. In fine, we were so welcomed, that seeming to wonder at the unsutableness of his poor and mean House, to his rich Mind and Fortune, he began (with many cursings and inveighing against the Grand Signior, and his slavish way of treating his Subjects and Vassals) to tell us, that if he, or any other Christian, did but seem to increase in any sort of plenty and magnificence, he straightways was sure to be squeezed, over-taxed and rifled accordingly, without any other reason given, or possibility of relief; though indeed this Treatment doth seem the less cruel, since they are forewarned of it, and have so very little assurance of their children's enjoying any thing long after their deaths. Yet 'tis not as many write (and we among the rest did believe, till otherwise informed on the place) that the Grand Signiors Subjects are all his Slaves, and can bequeath nothing to their Children, he being the sole Heir and disposer of all, for albeit in some this be true, yet in others several Customs are predominant, and reign, and are duly enough observed, some inheriting half, some more, some less, according to their several Tenors, Capitulations and Agreements; for when the Grand Signior makes any new Conquest, those which will stay and duly pay their Tribute, their Children and Money do run the hazard only of feeling now and then his extrajudicial way of being squeezed, but otherwise may quietly enjoy all their Lands and Revenues, though willingly the Sultan cares for no Christian Subjects, but poor distressed Peasants, such as do feed cattle, and till and cultivate the Lands, since no native Turk will hardly ever work, but generally they are Soldiers, and the most of them Horsemen, for the best sort of Foot, especially in Europe, are the Christian's tributary Children, the Janissaries, who know no other home, nor have other love, then that of their Emperor's greatness. Their best Horse are the Spahyes, and such of them, especially, who for merit are rewarded with Lands, which are called Timarrs, and are like our old Knights-services here: As for example, a Horseman hath a Village allotted him, perhaps some a Farm, some more, and some less in proportion, which they hold during life, and according to the value of the Lands, are bound to find more or less Horsemen, to serve at all times, when the Grand Signior wars and calls upon them. Some have but one, others more, to the number of twenty, and few above, and a Revenue of twenty or thirty Pound● Sterling, is reckoned for ● Timarre. These Tenors are still disposed of from hand to hand, on the deaths or respective behaviours of his Subjects, not only throughout the greatest part of his ancientest Dominions, but practised so likewise where he conquers any Land on the Christians, or others, where his usual stile is, to seize first on all the Domains of the conquered Prince, and of what belongs to such as are killed or fled, as also of the Church's Revenues and Royalties, which they in this manner divide into Timarrs, and the residue, which belongs to such Christians as will stay, they suffer them to enjoy, and inherit, as I said, some all, some half, on such several Conditions, as they promised and granted to them. But their tyrannous Government, together with the laziness and pride of the Natives, is the reason all their Countries lie desert in a manner, so as scarce in a days march we met with a Village, and all along the Danube, as we went to Belgrade, and so in all our Journey to Adrianople, we saw vast Woods and Fields, with very rich Campagnias, all desolate as it were, or for Pasture at best, and here and there a little and inconsiderable patch of Corn, since, as I said before, all the culture is from Christians, who though for the most part of the Greek Church, yet they, as well as Catholics, in most great Towns have their Chapels and Churches, and every where free liberty of their Religion. Jews also, though inferior in number, have the like, which joined to the Christians, exceed far the number of the Turks, to whom, though many Wives are allowed, and Concubines not forbidden by their Law, yet few but Grandees have more than one or two, and likewise few Children, which when the Parent dies are left to God's mercy and the Great Turk's unmercifulness, since of the greatest Persons, who are born Turks among them, the Child seldom inherits, the Wives inconsiderably little, and the Concubines nothing, unless some ready Money, which is likewise done with privacy. But to leave as well this Subject at present, as the Town of Belgrade, where I fear, I have detained the Reader too long, I shall only acquaint him, that as our coming thither was of great joy to many, so our going away was to many as sad▪ especially to the Captives of Austria, who deploring their slavish condition, could not hope for any liberty and redemption, till at the Ambassadors return from Constantinople, which by his mediation, and the great liberality of the Province of Austria▪ was afterwards very happily effected. But on Midsummer-day, the Feast of Saint John Baptist, the Turks on the contrary side, in memory of the Sacrifice of Abraham, expressed extraordinary joy, by the discharge of the Guns from the Castle, which were answered by the Volleys of the Soldiers. In the mean time the Ambassador had advice from Adrianople, that the Grand Visier made extraordinary preparations for his Excellency's entertainment, so as if he made too much haste, he could not have so splendid a reception. The Ambassador therefore was to make easy Journeys, which easily was granted and consented unto. The six and twentieth of June, with above two hundred Wagons, each Wagon having three, and four Horses some, besides Saddle-horses for many, we departed from Belgrade to Isarchich, where we lost the pleasant sight of the Danube. The Ambassador had four Coaches with six Horses apiece, one of which he road in himself, with my Lord and Count Herberstein. In the second and third was his Excellency's Nephew my Lord Hay, with his Chaplain and others, and the fourth, which was the richest, and carried no body in it, was presented at Adrianople to the Emperor of Turkey. The rest of the Ambassador's Comrades and Retinue had generally Wagons for themselves, their Beds and their Baggage, and usually in the mornings about one of the Clock, the Trumpets gave us notice to be stirring, which commonly sounded twice, but the first time was preparatory, and only in order to the fitting of the Wagons, and packing up of things against the second sounding, at what time we marched by Torchlight, to decline the great heats, and in case any Wagons chanced to break on the way, or the Horses did tyre, the Commissaries appointed for that purpose, supplied all defects in that kind, so as sooner or later we all met together at the general Rendezvous, which was still before noon, but earlier or later, as the Conacks or Journeys were longer or shorter. We had not our Quarters in Villages or Towns, but usually in the Fields, in some Plain, and always near Fountains or Brooks, where before we arrived the Tents were still pitched, and the Cooks very busy in getting Dinner ready, who had elbow-room enough, for the Campagnia was their Kitchen. In the afternoon the Clerk of the Kitchen, with the Quartermaster and part of the Cooks (for some stayed behind to get Supper ready) departed before, to have all things in order against the next day, so that as we advanced, we still were provided of what the place afforded. And indeed for us that travelled in Wagons, we had the greatest ease, and the best accommodation imaginable such a Journey could administer, for we went into our Beds after Supper, and marched in that posture till we came to our Quarters the following day, and then only rose and made ourselves ready. After dinner some reposed in their Tents, while others played at Tables or Cards, and many in the evenings would walk up and down, and visit the Turks, and particularly our Commissary, who was a civil Person. On the eight and twentieth we came to Colar, from whence we saw Samandria, once the famous Metropolis of Servia, and a Colony of the Romans, but now very ruinous. Some remains are yet there of a little Chapel dedicated to our Lady, and the Catholics the Inhabitants are as celebrated for their poverty and constancy in Religion, as the place was renowned heretofore for its Riches and Glory. Here we stayed the next day, and his Excellency entertained at dinner Hassan-Aga the Commissary. The next place was Hassan-Basha-Palanka, a Fortress, or rather a retreat from the incursions of Horse, which consists of tall Poles only lathed and mudded, the Houses within being nothing but Smoke and Cowdung without. The first of July (for the last of June was spent in repose, and the Commissary gave his Excellency a Dinner dressed after the fashion of the Turks) we came to Bodauzin, and the next day to Jogada, a place naturally pleasant and fit for delights, for it abounded with Fountains, which in that hot season of the year were of great refreshment to us. Allured with this sweetness, we tarried here two days, and withal because 'twas said to be the half way between Vienna and Constantinople. During our stay here, the Commissary invited the Ambassador, and the Cavaliers with him, to a House very pleasantly seated, where he gave them a Collation, and while they were at Table, his Excellency's Music, both Vocal and Instrumental, transported the Turks; but one of them, a Cook of the Commissaries, was handled more roughly for running away, for he was drubbed most severely, and on his bare feet received two hundred strokes with a Stick, as big and shaped like that we play at Goff with, in so much that he was black in the Face, and lolling out his Tongue, expired in a manner, but afterwards recovered. From Jogada, on a fine and strong wooden Bridge, we passed the River Morava, which separates Servia from Bulgaria. The next place was Baraizin, than Pellacderesi, and afterwards Aleschinti, where in a little Brook, and on the Grass thereabout, we saw many Tortoises, and caught about a hundred. At Nissa (which was once an Episcopal, but is now a small Town) we arrived on the seventh, and stayed the next day. Here the Courier of Vienna overtook us, and brought joyful Letters out of Christendom, which not only refreshed us with the memory of our Friends and Alliances there, but renewed too our desires of returning to them. Coitina, a place three Leagues distant from Nissa, received us next, wherein excellent Baths a little out of the Road, many washed themselves, as the Turks often do, who, most of all the Elements, are lovers of Water, which serves, as they imagine, as well for the purifying and cleansing of the Soul as the Body, so as they wash often, and have Fountains in their Mosches, which as frequently they repair to as they pray. On the tenth Musan-Basha-Palanka was our Station, where after a new fashion the Bulgarian Women welcomed us, who meeting us, strewed little bits of Butter and Salt on the way, presaging and wishing thereby, a prosperity to our Journey and Affairs. On the eleventh we came to Sackerkoi, where we stayed the next day. Here by reason of the Heats, the change of Diet and Air, above forty were sick, and several strangely recovering, some six and twenty died, among whom was the Baron of Kornpsiel. Here the Governor of the place invited the Ambassador, together with the Cavaliers, and Hassan-Basha the Commissary to dinner. The Dukes of Villack had their residence here, where yet three Christian Churches remain; in one of which, (appertaining heretofore to the Dominicans) over the Tomb of the said Dukes, the Statue of a Man at full length, is yet to be seen, and at the Foot of the Duke, a Wheel with a Crescent, where is written as follows, Hic est Sepultus Illustris Dominus Laurentius Dux de Villack, Filius olim Serenissimi Domini Nicolai Regis Bosniae cum Consorte sua Catharina, Anno 1500. On the fifteenth we got to Sophia, the Capital City of Bulgaria, where the Beglerbeg, or Viceroy of Greece most ordinarily resides, by reason whereof 'tis most of all inhabited by Turks. The Town hath no Walls, yet a thousand Horsemen met us on the way, and when we entered into the place, the Townsmen stood in Ranks in their Arms, distinguished by their Trades in the Streets, as we passed along, but they had no great Guns, for Towns unwalled have none. During our stay here, while a Courier was dispatched to Vienna, the Bishop of the place changing his Habit, waited on his Excellency, and showed us the Church, which was without the Town, which is said to have been built above fourteen hundred years. After two day's repose we departed, and quitting the Plain of Sophia, discovered Mount Rhodope, where Antiquity will have it, that Orpheus played so sweetly on his Harp. On the top of this Mountain seven Springs issue forth, which those of the Country, do call to this day, the seven Fountains of Orpheus, they imagining that the Tears which he shed for Eurydice his Wife gave beginning to those Sources. This said Mountain and Mount Haemus, which are joined together, separate Bulgaria from Romania, called anciently Thrace, and one of the six Provinces, which in the Romans time was comprised under the common name of Dacia. The other five are Moldavia, Transylvania, Raslia, Walachia and Servia. These Daci, or Davi, for so they are called, gave 〈…〉 that Proverb, Da●us sum non Aedipus. The People of Bulgaria have had many Revolutions, and almost beyond the Example of any other Country. The Triballi were the first, who worsted King Philip of Macedon, and made him surrender the Mares he had plundered out of Scythia, for a breed for his Thessalian Horses. Secondly the Maesi, Thirdly the Daci. Fourthly the Romans. The Goths were the fifth. The Slavonians the sixth. The Bulgarians the seventh. The Grecians the eighth, and the Turks the ninth: Yet still it retaineth the name of Bulgaria, from the Volgarians, who came from the River Volga, and by the change of V into B are called Bulgarians, whose Metropolis, called formerly Tibiscum, is known now, as I intimated before, by the name of Sophia, from a Church, which Justinian the Emperor did here dedicated to Sancta Sophia. As for Thrace in general, before the Greeks possessed and planted it, the Nation was as barbarous as any in the World. They lamented the Births of their Children, and sang at their Deaths, yet were always a fight People, and never fully subdued till the Romans undertook them. On the eighteenth we came to Kupra-Basha, the next day to Ictiman, and the twentieth to Kisterfent by a very stony way. Sakurambeg was next, in an open and fertile Country, whence passing the day following through Dartarbastek, we arrived at Philippopolis. This City, called formerly Peneropolis, and afterwards Philippopolis by Philip of Macedon that repaired it, is seated near a Plain of a very great extent, and washed by the celebrated River of Hebrus, now called Marissa, into which the Taponiza and Caludris do empty themselves. The said Hebrus is famous for the very frequent mentions the Poets make of it, particularly for Orpheus, who discontented in that manner, for the loss of Eurydice his Wife, against the whole Sex, introduced the practice of Masculine Venery, for which the Ciconian Matrons tore him in pieces, and threw his Limbs into the River. Among other things at Philippopolis, they showed us a little Church on a hill, which was dedicated to Saint Paul, and 'tis very memorable, that but three Leagues from hence many thousands of People are spread up and down in the Villages and Towns, which are called Paulini. This place hath an old Tower, and in it a Clock, which seemed the stranger to us, since in this vast and barbarous Country we saw none before. Not far from the City, on an eminent Mountain, is a very great Convent of Monks of the Grecian Religion, in whose Church, called Saint George, our Mahometan Commissary caused the Body of Baron Kornpfeil to be buried, which the Lord Hay, and the Secretary of the Embassy attended to the Grave, but the rest of the dead were interred near the Banks of the River. The Wine of Philippopolis is as cheap as 'tis excellent, for 'tis in great abundance thereabouts, and preserved in Vessels of an extraordinary greatness, which as I admired, so I wondered at the low and little Doors of their Houses, till they told me, that they had them so on purpose, to hinder the Turks from bringing in their Horses, and turning their Dwellings into Stables. And I likewise observed, when we knocked at any Door, to taste and buy Wines, the People within were still very shy to admit us, till they first had explored what Company we were in, so fearful they are of the Turks, from whom they are subject to many affronts, especially when in Wine. From Philippopolis we went to Papasli, whose Moschee and Caravansaria (the Inn in Turkey as well for Beasts as Men, for Men and their Horses are under the same Roof) was built by the Progenitor of the present Grand Visier. The next day we came to Kiral, and the third to a great Plain, where, because we wanted Water, we went out of the way, till we came to a Fountain. Here malignant Fevers, bloody Fluxes, and other dire Diseases began to reign again, which some of the Retinue had caught and contracted, by visiting infectious Cottages, as also by eating much Fruit, and drinking Wine cooled excessively in Snow, which the Turks had procured, but one only died. Here likewise, while the Priest was at Mass, three Bulgarians brought two Bears and a Cub, which were taught to dance and wrestle at the sound of a Cymbal, which while some unadvisedly minded more than their Prayers, the Bassa, that observed it, was displeased in that manner, that he commanded them to be beaten away. On the seven and twentieth we arrived at Ormandli, where we saw a Moschee, a Caravansaria, and a handsome Stone-bridge. The next place was Mustapha-Basha-Cupri, where there is a Royal Haver, or Caravansaria, which I thought to describe in my return from Constantinople, for in our passage thither we say without the Towns, in the open Fields in Tents, or in Wagons. But this Structure being Regal, and the best I have seen, I think it now best to acquaint the Reader with it, who may easily fancy a spacious Oval Court, and opposite to the Gate that leads in, a high and stately Porch, on both sides of which, a Building as vast, as magnificently covered with Lead, is presented to the eye. 'Tis supported by four and twenty Pillars of Marble, which are of that bigness, they cannot be fathomed, and resembles two huge Barns joined together, as aforesaid. Within on each hand, besides the main Wall (where the light comes in at several little Slits) is a Wall two Cubits high, and as broad, and about some ten foot distance from each other, several Chimneys are erected for the service of Passengers, as well to dress their Meat, as to warm them in the Winter. The said Wall serves for Bedsteads, for Tables, Stools and other Conveniencies, which the common Inns in Christendom afford. There are no Partitions, but all things clear and obvious to others▪ when you eat or lie down; and the same Roof is for Camels and Horses, as I said said before, which are tied to Rings fastened to Posts. 'Tis easily to be imagined what sleep and repose the weary Traveller may expect, and what smells and what noises he must be subject to. At the Gate, Hay and Barley (for I saw no Oats in Turkey) and Wood too are commonly sold, but the provision for the Horses is ordinarily the best, for besides ill Bread, and Wine (which is usually good) if the Travellers meet with any Flesh or Fish, they must dress it themselves, if they have no Servants with them. These are the Inns in Turkey, and the place takes the name from Caravana, which is a Company that travel together, for 'tis not safe in Turkey to travel alone. This place is likewise famous for an excellent Bridge of white Stones, which resembles that of Ratisbone, or Prague, as well for the breadth as the length. Hither Cavalier Simon A Rheningen, who had been the Emperor's Resident seventeen years in Constantinople, came to wait on the Ambassador, who received him with all kindness and respect, by whom, when his Excellency had gladly been informed, the Grand Signior was at Adrianople, preparation was made for our departure; but before we went hence, Hassan-Basha, our Commissaries Son (a Youth of good mien, and of a comely Countenance) came to wait on his Father, who sent him after dinner to kiss his Excellency's Hands, who treated him courteously, and gave him a Watch of good value. In the morning betimes we marched away, and the same day arrived in a Campagnia, within two hours of Adrianople, where the Ambassador continued two days in his Tents, which were pitched near the Banks of the River Hebrus aforesaid. On the first of August, the glorious and anniversary day of the Battle of Saint Gotard, where the pride of the Ottoman Sceptre was depressed in some measure, by the slaughter of above twelve thousand Men of the Flower of the Army, the Ambassador, in a very solemn manner, passed through the Turkish Camp (the Army, to the number of thirty thousand, lying then near the City in Tents) towards Adrianople in the following order. The Quartermaster, with two of the Turkish Attendants, preceded, and was followed by the Gentleman of the Horse to the Ambassador, with his Excellencies led Horses. The Pages were next, and after them eight Trumpeters, with their Trumpets of Silver, but they were not to sound them, and the Kettledrum was as silent. Signore Lelio de Luca, the Ambassador's Steward, with the Squadron of his Excellency's Servants, and those of the Cavaliers his Comrades followed next, to whom two hundred Chiauses were added, and among them many Sons of the better sort of Turks. Several Persons of Honour of several Nations went next, as Baron Fin, Baron Coronini, the Baron de reach, the Lord Hay, Marquis Chasteauvieux, the Baron of Funffkerken, the Marquis Pecori, Marquis Durazzo, the Duke of Holstein incognito, and the Honourable Edward Howard of Norfolk. Then the Banner of the Embassy very richly embroidered, was carried by Count Sterhaimb, which (though rolled up, the arrogancy of that Monarchy permitting no Potentates Colours to be displayed before the Sultan) yet on one side our Lady trampling on the Head of the Dragon, and on the other the Imperial Eagle were sufficiently discovered. On Count Sterhaimbs right hand my Lord road, and the Earl of Herberstein on his left. The Emperors Resident was next with a Train of his Servants, than the Ambassador's Guard, and his Excellency himself, whose venerable Beard joined to his tall Stature, together with his very rich Habit, and Cap, where he wore a rare Feather of Herons beset with noble Diamonds, allured the Spectators, and drew their Eyes upon him. On the right hand of his Excellency road the Chiaus-Basha, the Marshal of the Court, and the Aga of the Spahyes on the left. Signore Panniotti a Grecian, and Interpreter to both the Emperors, came behind with the Secretary of the Embassy, John Frederick Metzger, Doctor of the Civil Law, and Signore Wachina the Ambassadors private Interpreter. On both sides his Excellency, a hundred Janissaries attended, to keep off the People. Two hundred Spahies with their Coats of Mail, Quivers and Lances followed in the Rear, and behind them the Ambassador's Litter, with four Coaches with six Horses apiece: And lastly, a hundred and ninety Wagons with the Baggage. In this manner we passed to the City of Adrianople, through the midst of the Ottoman Camp, by the Grand Viziers Tent, and near the Seraglio, while the Grandees of the Court stood admiring and gazing on the pomp of this Embassy, which rather represented the Glory and Triumph of the Emperor of the West, than a Salutation and an Address to the Monarch of the East. And afterwards we heard, that the Sultan himself, who, together with his Mother, his Wife, and two Brothers, sat behind a thin Curtain, and with joy and admiration was a Spectator like others, and observed all things curiously, said, That in all kinds he had never seen the like. It was noon ere we came to our Quarters, which were in the Suburbs on the other side of the Town, and how gladly we got thither, the Reader may imagine, since the Heats were so excessive, we could hardly endure them. The next day the Grand Visier sent his Excellency a Present, of several sorts of Fruits, to the number of thirty Baskets; to the bringers of which, the Ambassador commanded thirty Crowns to be given. Some other few days were spent in receiving and giving reciprocal Compliments. The City of Adrianople (called anciently Oreste) is partly seated on the top, and partly on the descent of a Hill, on that side, where the Rivers Tunza and Harda lose their names in the Marissa. 'Tis the best, and most considerable Town between Strigonium and Constantinople, the Buildings whereof are as good as any other in Turkey, and the Air more sweet and temperate than any in Romania. On the sixth his Excellency was conducted by the Chiaus-Basha to the Grand Viziers Tent, where after the Ceremonies performed on each side, the Ambassador delivered him the Emperor's Letters, which had this Address: Strenuo & magnifico viro, Achmet Bassa Serenissimi Turcarum Imperatoris supremo Vezirio sincere nobis dilecto. His Excellency likewise presented him from the Emperor, with Gifts of a very great value, and the Grand Visier gave him a Caftan lined with Sables, to the worth of a thousand Dollars, as also the Horse and Furniture he had lent him, when his Excellency made his entrance into Adrianople. A hundred Caftans were likewise then distributed among the Ambassador's Comrades, and others of the Retinue. Here we had the news, that part of the Seraglio at Constantinople was burnt, and above two hundred Houses consumed, in so much that a little before the Queen-Mother and the Sultana returned in haste thither. And now since the season of the year put the Sultan in mind of visiting his Maritine Castles (a thing he had designed before) the Ambassador's Audience was hastened. On the eleventh a hundred Chiauses and two hundred Janissaries, very early in the morning, came to wait on the Ambassador, and conduct him to the Seraglio, and the Grand Visier, as formerly, sent Horses accordingly, so as we marched thither in a very solemn manner. In the inward Court his Excellency alighting, was ushered into the Divan (the place where the Viziers meet three times a week to do justice) here six of them (the Arbiters and disposers of all things in Asia and Europe) expected his arrival, and the Grand Visier met him, and courteously receiving him, made him sit in a rich Chair. Then that the pomp and ostentation of the Ottoman Greatness might more visibly appear, he caused the sum of three hundred and seventy five thousand Dollars, to be distributed before us, among the Soldiers and Officers of the Court, (the Pay for three months) which they usually receive on the days the Grand Signior gives Audience to Ambassadors. The Janissaries stood unarmed in a row, with their Arms across and their Faces downward, but towards the Divan, and over against them fifteen little Field-pieces of Brass. On the other side were the Spahies; and as the several Captains were called by a List, some of that Troop or Company followed them, to receive their Pay in red Leather-purses (each Purse containing five hundred Dollars) which they threw on their Shoulders, and carried away in that manner. This lasted near two hours, and then Dinner followed. At the first Table was the Ambassador, with the Resident, the Grand Visier, and another of great Quality. The Cavaliers were disposed here and there at other Tables, with the other Viziers. The rest of the Retinue sat like Tailors on the Ground, where Skins of red Leather were spread in the nature of Carpets, where the Meat was set thick. The greatest pomp of the Dishes, besides Flesh and Fish, were things made of Sugar, of Musk and Ambergris, and the Drink was only Water and Sherbett, but the Attendants finely clad, and very numerous. While we were at dinner, the Presents from the Emperor (which were in great abundance, and inestimable in a manner) were carried by the Turks through the Court, that the People might see them, and all Curiosities be satisfied, as well with the number as the variety of the Gifts. Dinner being ended, and forty Caftans distributed, (without which no access to the Sultan, who gave fewer than the Grand▪ Visier his Minister) the Capigi-Basha informed the Viziers, the Grand Signior was ready for the Audience, who immediately waited on him, and after their low reverences stood about him in their places▪ Then the Ambassador was led and ushered in, and the Cavaliers soon after introduced in order, between two of the Turks of good Quality; and no sooner were admitted, and had made their Obeissances, but dismissed as soon. The Persons that had admittance, were the Residents, the Cavaliers A Renninghen, and Casanova, my Lord, Count Herberstein, the Marquess' Durazzo, and Pecori, the Honourable Edward Howard of Norfolk, Count Sterhaimb, the Barons of Binnendorff, Funffkercken, Hay, Coro●ini, Fin, Vernavel, and Ree●, together with the S●cre●… and Interpreter of the Embassy. All being retired and gone, but the Ambassador, the Resident, and the Interpreter, this last presented the Emperor's Letters to the Ambassador, and he to the Sultan, who resplendent and glittering with his Gold and his Gems (which no where are fixed, but carried by Camels wheresoever he goes) looked rather like one from a Bed than a Throne. After the Compliments on the part of the Emperor, the public and private Causes of the Embassy were briefly recited. The Sultan replied, he was glad to hear of the Emperor's Health, and bad the Ambassador welcome. As to what might conduce to the happiness of both Empires, he said very little, but bad the Ambassador go to Constantinople, whence he would not long be absent, his Maritime Expedition being over, after which the Ambassador (who alone kissed the Hem of his Garment) repeating his Obeissances, returned to his Quarters. On the thirteenth his Excellency sent the Gentleman of his Horse, to present the Grand Signior with a Noble and Rich Coach, together with seven Neapolitan Horses, and four Irish Greyhounds. On the sixteenth the Grand Visier entertained the Ambassador, and the Cavaliers with him, at a Dinner, in a Palace without the City, belonging to the Mufti, who is as a Pope, or Highpriest to the Turks▪ and was also there. When they had dined, a hundred Turks well mounted and clad, for the divertisement of his Excellency, showed rare Feats of Horsemanship, darting Staves at one another, with such vigour and agility, that 'twas a kind of wonder, how they possibly could decline them, though two or three were dangerously hurt, if not killed. On the three and twentieth the Grand Signior came out of the Seraglio with great pomp and state, and passed through the City to his Tent in the Camp, in order to his motion towards Gallipolis, but stayed there some days, by reason of the Heats, not returning into the Seraglio, unless by disguise, or in the night, as the fashion is there, when he publicly comes forth, in order to any Progress or Journey. During our stay at Adrianople, which was near a month, I had the opportunity of conversing with an Italian Renegado, who acted there the part of a Physician. By his and others help on the place, I had the information of some things, which usually to Strangers are not so clear and obvious▪ And having now some leisure, I shall prosecute the Relation I left off at Belgrade. And first of the Rigour of the Turks. The Mahometans are severe in their Punishments, and for the least Fault beat commonly the Offenders on the Soles of their Feet, sometimes on the Belly, and Buttocks, and other parts of the Body, which is used most to Janissaries, from which the best and greatest amongst them are hardly exempt, but when they pay the forfeiture with their Heads. For at Mahomet Agas Tent, who was our Conductor, at a small Town between Buda and Belgrade, because the Captain of the Castle, who commanded in chief in that and many other petty Places adjacent, came not early enough to pay him his Respects, as soon as he arrived, he was by our Conductor aforesaid, as he sat crosslegged, after a little rubbing in Turkish, kicked down with a Foot on his Breast, and so lying on his Back, his Legs (as the custom is there, which I wrote of before) were straightways held up, till our Aga, in six or seven Blows, broke the biggest end of a great and strong Stick on his Feet, which was done in a trice, ere my Lord (who was in the Tent with the choleric Aga) could rise up, and catch him by the Arm, to hinder him from striking any more; for his Lordship was struck with compassion, to behold a reverend old Man of seventy years of age, with a long and milk white Beard to his Girdle, so treated and used; and had not my Lord tugged hard, and been of some credit with the Aga, he swore he would have given him at least threescore Blows, and bad the poor old Governor thank only my Lord for his Clemency. Yet as soon as ere 'twas over, he sat down again with the rest in the Tent, and had Coffee given to him, which by reason of his smarting, he seeming not so readily to drink, and muttering only, that in almost sixty years, that he had served the Grand Signior, he had not been beaten before; had not my Lord, with others there present, entreated for him, he had been put in Chains, and sent away that evening to the Visier of Buda, who, as they affirmed, would have caused his Head to be quickly strucken off, without hearing him speak, or examining the matter. The like or worse treatment was intended to the Cadis of the Place, for having, like the Captain aforesaid, deferred his duty; but he hearing, it seems, of the others rude fate, fled away, and lay concealed all night in the Vineyards, not returning to his Station till after our departure. This Cadis is a Judge in all respective places, as well of civil Persons as Affairs, and hath as great a Power in all legal matters, as the Governor in military, they two being the Sharers and Arbiters of all things within their Jurisdiction and Verge, and only accountable to the next Visier or Bassa, whose Government it lies under; and yet notwithstanding our Commissary aforesaid, so deputed by the Visier of Buda, bore all along the journey such absolute authority, as I said, over all such Persons in every place we passed. Another Example occurs to my Memory, while we actually resided at Adrianople. 'Tis the fashion in the Ottoman Seraglio, when the Sultan goes publicly abroad, to give a gracious Nod to the Officers of his Court, for which the Chiaus-Basha, in the name of the rest, giveth thanks to his Majesty, and cries out aloud, Long live our Emperor, the King, etc. The said Chiaus-Basha, when the Sultan went into the Camp near the City of Adrianople, forgetting his duty, or employed about some business, neglected or omitted the usual Ceremonies, his Princes gracious Nod obliged him to. The Emperor dissembled it then, but arriving at the Camp, informed the Grand Visier of the fault, who hastening to his Tent, caused the Instruments to be brought, where the Feet of Offenders are put in and beaten. While all the great Officers, which standing round about, beheld one another (for none was yet designed for the punishment) were guessing at the Nocent: The Chiaus-Basha was commanded to lie down, and had a hundred Blows on the Soles of his Feet, which no sooner were over, and he recovering his Legs, but he fell down at the Grand Viziers Feet, endeavouring to kiss his Vest, and be restored to his Favour. But the Grand Visier raging, turned his Back upon him, and calling him Villain, bade him ever for the future to be carefuller of his duty, for otherwise he would order him to be strangled. The Wretch endured this usage with patience, and the next day they were both again at Court, each one in his Office, as if nothing the day before had at all intervened. For the Government of their Provinces, 'tis always triennial, and ordinarily the Grand Signior sends Persons from the Court, who have seen no other light than that of the Seraglio, and yet when the Emperor bestows a charge on any, they say, at the same time, God gives him understanding and conduct to exercise and manage the same. The Grandees, when out of the Field, lead luxurious and lazy lives, passing most their time in eating and debauchery, the worst of which Sodomy is so frequent among them, as when 'tis not forced, 'tis hardly looked upon as a Vice. For their Military Discipline in general, it is a mere confusion, and supplied alone by force. And as for their Forts, they are naked and pitiful Works, for they repair nothing, except peradventure some frontier Town or Castle, and those but poorly neither, for unless by the help of Renegadoes (of which, though they have of all Nations, yet 〈◊〉 of any note, or consi 〈…〉) they know not how well to go about to do it. The like want of care is observed in their Houses, and Gardens, and all sorts of Buildings (except the public Works) which we may the less wonder to see go to ruin, in regard, as I told you before, almost all look no farther, then for their own Lives, which depend upon the Malice or Caprise of the respective Governors; nay, should they make the least ostentation and pomp of being rich (as I intimated before) strait that is Crime enough to cut off their Heads, and confiscate their Estates, as it often arrives to some wealthy Bassa or Visier, whose Head is cut off by a couple of Chiauses, or Messengers, in his own House or Tent, though he have a hundred Servants about him, nay, perhaps many thousands of Soldiers in his view, and under his command. Many of their Villages are built like Soldier's Huts, few or none of the Houses being covered with Tile, and the Cow-houses commonly in England much sweeter and cleanlier. The Village Walls resemble those in Hungary, but are something worse, being only long Stakes thrust into the Ground, and crossed through like Basket-work, and so daubed all over on both sides with Mud and Dirt. But their public Buildings, as Garavansarias or Hanes, as also their Baths, Bridges, Causies and Fountains, which almost all the way, in every day's journey we met with, are very stately things, their Religion directs them to make, and the more easily great Persons persuade themselves to, in regard they know not sometimes which way to dispose of their Riches when they die, having little assurance, that other dispositions will stand good and take place. Wherefore to eternize their Memories here, they make often vast expenses of this kind, and endow them with perpetual Revenues, for the public good of Passengers. Nay, some out of particular Devotion and Charity, give Meat to Dogs and Birds, causing holes to be made on their Grave-stones and Monuments, as Receptacles of Water for the Fowls of the Air, some of which, as particularly Turtles, are so tame and so foolish (being seldom shot at, or molested by the Turks) as I have seen in the Journey, when some of the Company had shot and killed several from a Tree, the others would sit still unconcerned, and the same Bird, if miss at first, would commonly sit still to be afterwards killed. This privilege and liberty of shooting on the way was not indulged to us, because we were Strangers, and of another Faith, but as being of the Ambassador's Train, whose Errand and Business, in that it related to Peace and Commerce, which then was very grateful to the Turks, gave us all sort of harmless conversation and freedom, and generally made them civil and obliging to us, since never any Embassy was so pompous and glorious, nor any Ambassador so welcome, as the ensuing Relation will instance to the Reader. The Hungarians averse to the Peace with the Turks, in regard his Imperial Majesty (of whom they had desired, that one of their own Nation might be joined with Count Lesley in the Embassy into Turkey) had denied their request, the Hussars of Filleck, with several of the neighbouring Inhabitants, uniting themselves to the number of six hundred, made an Incursion thirty Leagues into the Country, and plundering all the Villages about Waia, the very day before the Ambassador arrived there, returned with a considerable Booty. This insolency of the Hungarians, in a time of Peace and amity, and so near the Ambassador (whom they had a design to involve in some Labyrinth of trouble and affront) was as highly resented by his Excellency as the Turks, who (considering the enormity of the Fact) as they made very just, and very grievous Complaints to the Ambassador, so they might by requiring satisfaction, in all probability, have lessened their Civilities to his Person; yet they ceased not to treat him with all respect and honour, and the Governor of the Place sent his Excellency a Present of several sorts of Provision. But many of the Commonalty were as clownish and ignorant, as the better sort were courteous; for when on the Road we asked by an Interpreter, how far, or how many hours journey it was to such a place, they knew not what an Hour or Mile meant. 'Tis true, that near the Confines of Hungary they have some great Clocks, else generally they measure the day by their several times of praying and eating, which is sooner or later, as the Days and Nights lengthen or decrease. At dinner time often, as we travelled along, they would come and stand round about the Table, and wonder at our Hats (which many carried with them) our Fans, Gloves, etc. and some among them bolder than the rest, with civil mien enough, would take them up into their hands, when laid aside by us, to feel and put them on. The ordinary sort also, when we played at Cards or Tables, would gaze, and stand so near about the Table, that often we were forced to because to the Janissaries, to make them stand off, who, on the least sign of displeasure, would baste them like Dogs, as they served an Arabian, who being a Bravo amongst them, and marching with a Spear, thrust through his naked Body on purpose, with several Arrows pierced through the flesh of both Arms, for not making haste enough out of the way, as we passed along, was cruelly cudgelled and banged by a Janisary, sometimes on the Back, and sometimes on his Sides, and even the Arrows or Spear as it lighted, without the least regard to the posture he was in, which to us, unacquainted with Spectacles of that nature, was pitiful and compassionate, as others were bizarre and extravagant, particularly those of the Horsemen, some having huge Wings on their Backs, and others odd▪ and various kinds of Feathers on their Heads, with fantastical Caps, and other strange marks, to show how many Christians they had killed. The Foot too, to demonstrate their Actions in the Wars, are distinguished from the rest, by their several sorts of Dresses and Caps, of many shapes and colours, which they animate one another to deserve, by persuading themselves, that he, who dies fight in the Field against the Christians, gains Paradise presently, a place (as they describe it) most suitable to their sensual delights. We met with very few that are literate, and those which are so, reap little satisfaction by their reading, since they have no printed Books. But I cannot omit the cleanliness of the Turks, who, as they had occasion to▪ urine, still kneeled with one Knee at the least on the Ground, and afterwards washed their Hands, as they do still before and after their eating, which with them is as often as their Prayers, four or five times a day, for though at several hours they do eat, yet the chief time with them is about ten of the Clock in the Morning, when they they usually feast best; as when our Conductor entertained and treated the Ambassador, which was in this manner. First, He rose up when his Excellency came into the Tent, and bidding him welcome, and the Cavaliers with him, sat down again with them, who had each a Cushion on the Ground, the Ambassador alone having two, to raise him a little higher, for his Legs were not so pliable in sitting Tayler-wise like the rest, yet he would not use a Chair, though they offered him one, he being then incognito, and that no time of ceremony. When they were thus set a little, two Pages of the Commissary (tall Fellows, and forty years old) came to each of the Guests, and covering their Heads and Faces with a fine striped Taffeta, which they held over them, continued it so, till another with a Silver Incense had perfumed and smoked their Faces and Heads. That done, and the Incense removed, another Silk Cloth was laid cross the Lap and the Knees of the Guests, whom another great Page brought Rose-water to, with which they washed their Faces and Beards. When that was taken away, a Linen-cloth was laid, as the other, on their Knees, and Coffee given to them. After this they brought Sherbett, which is pleasant enough, when perfumed with Ambergris, and made of several Juices of Fruits, according to the Season, which is mixed and dissolved in Water, and then brought to drink. And lastly, Tobacco (unless in or near the Court, where it is prohibited) is offered those that like it, when commonly the Discourse doth begin. When Dinner time approached, they all first washed as they sat, than they spread in the middle, about the upper end of the Tent, a round Leather-table-cloath on the Ground, the Floor being almost all over (especially at the head of the Tent, and round the sides of it) ever covered with Carpets. To this Table they removed, and sat round as many as could, which is seldom above ten, on the middle of which is set first a Foot, and then a round Table, which is commonly of Pewter or Tin (for the Grand Signior only uses Gold, though forbidden by their Law) and raised about two handfuls high, in shape (though much bigger) like our Assiets or Stands. In the middle of this Table is set (and never but one at once) a great round Basin of the same Metal, filled full of Meat, the first being ever of tender roasted Mutton, or the like, cut all in joints and bits, which often on great Days, and Feasts, is smoked with Perfumes ere it comes to the Table. The boiled Meats are also so tender, as with ease they may be pulled in pieces, since Knives are never used at Meals. Many Soops of Milks and Spoon-meats are served in afterwards, which with long Wooden-spoons, or Ovalladles rather, they reach. Brown Bread is cut beforehand, and in long Slices thrown on the Table, both to eat and serve for Trenchers, on which they gave and put away their Bones, as they pleased, or flung them on the Table, as the Turks used to do, and fresh Bread was as frequently given as demanded, though the Turks eat commonly their Trenchers. Sherbetts are also given as oft as called for, and not as some write, only once at the end of the Dinner, which being now over, 'tis fit I should rise and be gone. On the seven and twentieth of August, very early in the morning, we departed from Adrianople, and passing the River Hebrus, over a great and long Bridge, marched by the Turkish Camp, the Trumpets all sounding, and the Kettledrum beating by his Excellency's command. About noon we arrived a Hapsa, and the next day a Baba, a pretty little Town. The next place was Borgas, and afterwards Caristeran, near which in a Campagnia, by a fine little Stream, we took up our Quarters. On the last of the Month we came to Chiurlu, and the first of September to Simenly, a very poor Village. The next day betimes we got to Seliurea, called formerly Selymbria, or the City of Selys, for Eria in the old Thracian Language doth signify a City, other Cities of Thrace having the like termination, as Olymbria and Mesembria. The Town is very pleasant, being seated on a Hill, ●nd by the Seaside, where usually (when the Wind is propitious) Boats are hired ●or Constantinople. From hence we removed to Ponte grande, where we passed four stone-bridges, with●n a little distance of each other, which crossed an arm of the Sea. Ponte Picciolo received us ●ext, where we met with fresh occasions of joy, for ●ere the long-looked for Rodolphus, the Courier from Vienna overtook us, and brought welcome Letters out of Christendom. Our last Station but one was within two hours' journey of Constantinople, where we stayed two days in Tents, while all things were prepared for our advance to that City; in order to which, the same day we removed, my Lord of Winchelsea, his Majesties then Ambassador sent his Secretary and Train, together with the English Merchants, to compliment and accompany his Excellency, whose entrance into Constantinople was pompous and solemn, and with all the usual Ceremonies of greatness. My Lord, (though he had a fair Quarter assigned him near his Excellency) yet invited before to my Lord of Winchelseas House, directly went thither, with his Brother and Retinue, and was very nobly received and entertained. ay, who for a while had been sick (even to death) in the Journey, soon found my recovery there, by my noble Lord of Winchelseas favour, and my Lady's greatest charity and goodness, whose incomparable Virtues surpassing all expression, I can only with gratitude commemorate, and with silence admire. Byzantium, the ancient name of the City, was reputed little bigger than the Seraglio is now. The principal Trade for fishing, especially for Tunny, which in very great quantities the Bosphorus yielded yearly, and o'er against the point of the Seraglio (which was called the Golden Horn from the gains of the Fishermen) vast numbers were taken, being driven and frighted thither from the Chalcedonian shore, by a white Stone appearing in the bottom of the shallow and transparent Water. Constantine the Great, and first Christian Emperor, enlarging and beautifying it with very fair Buildings, and walling it round, established there his Seat, and named it New Rome, but after his death, his Successor, in honour of his memory and name, caused it to be called Constantinople. It hath since been the Seat of the Emperors of the East, but not without great changes of Fortune, for instead of Christian Emperors, 'tis under the Power and Domination of a Mahometan Prince, Mahomet the Second having taken it by assault, and sacrificed it to the fury of his Soldiers. This great disaster to Christendom arrived in the year of our Lord, one thousand four hundred fifty three, on the nine and twentieth of May, and the second day of Whitsuntide, the Feast of the Holy Ghost, against whom the Greeks so often had sinned, God punishing them that day with the loss of their capital City, to show them the enormity of their sin. This City, by its apt and advantageous situation, may seem to be built to command all the World, for 'tis in the extremity of Europe, and separated only from Asia by an Arm of the Sea, some half a League broad. The Haven is so deep, and so safe, that Ships of the greatest burden may ride near the Shore with the greatest security. The City is in general ill built, and the Streets very narrow, so as in many places neither Chariots nor Wagons can pass. There is only one fair Street, and that is but indifferently large, which traverses the Town to the Adrianople-gate. But the Mosques built by several Emperors are very noble Structures, and all in imitation of Sancta Sophia, which is the only Church preserved from ruin at the taking of Constantinople, and which for the beauty of the Edifice, the Turks were contented to profane, by converting it into a Mosque. This Church was built by Justinian the Emperor, who for the building of it employed the Revenue of Egypt, which continued seventeen years, and when he had finished it, and saw the beauty of it, he bragged he had surpassed King Solomon in the structure of his Temple. Near it he erected a very fair Monastery, where the Seraglio is now, and endowed it with a Revenue of eight hundred thousand Crowns, maintaining nine hundred Priests there for the service of the Temple. Near Sancta Sophia, the Seraglio (divided from the City by a Wall, and washed on two sides by the Sea) contains three miles in circuit, which, the goodly Groves of Cypresses considered, the Gardens and Fountains, with the Plains, and other Objects of delight, is a place of variety of pleasure. I speak very sparingly of the Seraglio, because several others have said enough of it, and more than is usually discovered to Strangers. In the great Piazza (which the Greeks called the Hippodrome, and the Emperors designed for the Races of Horses) we saw two antic Pyramids, three brazen Serpents so wreathed and twined together, that nothing is free but the Head. Near the end of the Town, towards the North, the ruins of the ancient Palace of Constantine remain, where so many Christian Emperors had formerly their residence, and near the said ruins, is the Church and Habitation of the Patriarch of Constantinople. There are several great places in the City, which are called Besestines, which resemble our Exchanges, where all sorts of things may be bought, and there is too a Market of Slaves, where they sell Men and Women, in the last of which the Jews traffic much, and gain extremely by, for they buy them young and handsome, and teaching them to work with the Needle, to dance, sing and play on several Instruments, put them off with great advantage, which they do too out of policy, as well as for lucre, for the Women thus preferred to the Court, out of gratitude to the Jews, do them many good offices. In the middle of the City is the old Seraglio, which Mahomet the Second built, as well for his own, as his Successors residence, but they liking the new better, as being more healthful and pleasanter, abandoned it to the service of the Grand Signiors Women when he dies, where they languish out the residue of their days. The Armenians have a great space enclosed in the City, where the Patriarch inhabits, whose Church is poor and little, and there are yet the remains of a Hall, where a Council was held. There are two great Enclosures, where the Janissaries are lodged, when the Army is out of the Field, where they live in great order and discipline. In an Angle of the City is the Castle of the seven Towers, where the Sultan keeps the Prisoners of note he puts not to death, and here Sultan Osman was strangled by his Subjects. The Burrow of Galata, which is separated by the Haven, hath much better Houses than the City, for it belonging to the Genoveses was surrendered on composition, and so kept from ruin, and this is the reason the Churches of the Catholics were preserved and entire. Here and at Pera the Christians for the most part inhabit, where they have the free exercise of their Churches and Religion. O'er against the Seraglio, on the Asian Shore, is the Burrow of Scutary, where the Caravans meet together, which go into Persia, to Aleppo, and Damascus, and other Eastern parts. On the side of the said Scutary, are the Fragments and remains of the ancient City Chalcedon, so celebrated for the general Council in the time of the Emperor Martianus. The Shore of the Thracian Bosphorus▪ (which discharges its Waters into the Mediterranean) is full of pleasant Villages and Houses of delight, and at the mouth of it (some eighteen miles distant from Constantinople) on a Rock which advances into the Sea, in the form of near an Island, is a Pillar of white Marble, which is called Pompey's Pillar, erected, as reported, when he defeated Mithridates. About two or three Leagues from the Town, where the Channel is most narrow, two Castles well provided of Artillery are built, to hinder the passage of Vessels they are willing to stop. Round about the Town there are nothing but Grave-stones and Monuments of the dead, which no sooner we had passed, but the Country was as fertile as pleasant, the Valleys and Hills being variously beautified with Objects of pleasure. Three Leagues from the City there is a vast confluence of Waters, conserved in a Cistern of a very great circuit and magnitude, not far from which place, to join and bring two Mountains together, three Arches are erected, the one above the other, from whence the Water runs in that plenty to the City, that besides the public Fountains, and those in the Houses of Bassa's, eight hundred are supplied in the Mosques. As for the Provisions of Constantinople, there is no want of any thing, Wheat, Wine and Flesh of all sorts, being there in great abundance and cheapness, and as for the Fish, there are always great quantities of the same, and those very good, as Turbots, Soles, Mullets and the like, as during our stay there, which was above three months, we found by experience. But to return to the Ambassador, the Camacan of Constantinople sent two Galleys to his Excellency (each Galley, having four hundred and eighty six Oars, and five Men at an Oar, all Christians, but most of them Russians and Polanders) to carry him with his Comrades▪ and Retinue, to a pleasant Garden-house on the Bosphorus, where he feasted us nobly, and for the Ambassador's divertisement, caused dance▪ and tricks to be showed after dinner, but on our way thither, the Galley his Excellency was in, ran foul on another, and was in some danger. On the third of October the Sultan returned from his Maritime Expedition, and the Grand Visier feasted the Ambassador at his Garden. On the tenth of November his Excellency had his second and last Audience of the Sultan (no Ambassador having oftener than twice, to wit, at his coming and going away) in order to which, the Grand Visier sent him Horses and Furniture for himself and his Retinue. He entered into the Seraglio at the principal Gate near Sancta Sophia, which was guarded by five and twenty Capigis, or Porters, where we saw a spacious Court, and a Fabric on the left hand, which anciently was the Sacristy to Sancta Sophia, but the Turks keep the Arms there at present which they took from the Christians, as well as the taking of Constantinople, as in other Rencounters. On the right hand is a Structure, which serves for an Infirmary for the sick of the Seraglio. This Court we road into, but alighted at the second, which was guarded as the former, and his Excellency was received with the same state and ceremony, as before at Adrianople. On the eighteenth the Ambassador and Resident dined with the Grand Visier, who gave them Caftanns, which were lined with Sables. On the third of December the Grand Signior hunted, a sport he loves much, and is in this manner. Several thousands of Peasants beat and drive a whole Wood, while the Sultan and his Followers stand in an open place with the Dogs, which run at any Game, sparing nothing that comes forth, though unfit to be killed. When the Sultan had done, the Grand Visier presented him with five Purses of Dollars, as also with two Vests, the two Vests he disliked, and four of the Purses he gave to his Pages, and the other among the Peasants, who frequently, when the Grand Signior hunts, through extremity of Cold, are frozen to death in the Woods. On the seventh the Ambassador had audience of the Grand Visier, and on the tenth of the Testardar, or Treasurer general, both of which gave Caftanns. But the day of our departure being come (which was on the one and twentieth instant) the Ambassador full of glory (though many of his Train had been swept away by death) went away with a greater Retinue, by the addition of the Captives, which he carried with him. O how the poor Christians, which he left sad behind, regretted the loss and the absence of that Guest, from whom they had received such abundance of comfort, and now were apprehensive, they should never see again. We went not away in the order and manner we came, for the Ambassador being gone, all that were in Wagons, afraid to be hindmost, made all the haste they could, and some made more haste than good speed, for between Constantinople and Ponte Picciolo (the place of our abode for that night) many Wagons were unserviceable by their jostling one another, till refitted and amended, and here lay a Wheel, and there a broken Axletree. The next morning we departed, and continuing our journey towards Belgrade, returned the same way by which we came thence, nothing intervening of moment, only at Sackarcoi, an Arabian with his Torch in his hand (who led us in the dark) and some others with their Bufali, were frozen to death, while they slept on the ground. Doctor Metzger likewise, the Secretary of the Embassy, as also of the Council of War to the Emperor, who fell mad at Constantinople, expired at Nissa, and was buried near the Town in the Sepulchre of the Raguseans. At Belgrade (where we stayed till the thirteenth of February, the day of our departure) I wanting some Gloves, desired a Jew to help me to a pair, which he readily undertook, and brought several to me, but all for one hand, for the Turks were but one. Two days being spent in ferrying the Horses, the Coaches and Wagons over the River of Sava, (where the Turks with their Whips forced all idle gazers to lend a helping hand) on the fourteenth we came to Colombitza, a Village under ground, the Houses of which we were glad to creep into on our Knees. Nitrovitz was next, where we stayed the following day, and then came to Valkovar and Esseck, the latter of which is a walled Town, where we saw a great Gun, which was nineteen foot long, and several Heads of Christians, which were set up on Poles. The Streets were planked with Timber, and we passed a Wooden-bridge three or four miles in length, which was over the Drava, and the many Moorish places we met with. Without the Town was a Gaunch, or double Gallows, full of Hooks, on which Malefactors were thrown headlong down, and as they were caught, had either a quicker, or a linger death. The next place was Bernovar, than Mohachz, and afterwards Battaseck. Secksar, a place finely seated (where we saw the remains of an old Christian Church, and the ruins of a large Building) was our Station for two days, and Pax received us next. Footvar, Tschankurtaran and Erchin, all Towns on the Danube, we passed through afterwards, and arrived at Buda, some two miles from whence we were met by the Spahyes, and marched through the Janissaries, which on both sides the way stood expecting us in their Arms, while many great Guns were discharged from the Castle and City. Here we stayed thirteen days, and sixty Slaves, Hungarians and Germans, were released; the Visier showing the Ambassador all imaginable civility, and causing the like Skirmish on horseback, to be done and perfomed at Buda, as was before at Adrianople for his Excellency's divertisement. While we stayed in this Town, the Turks had their Ramasan or Lent, which continues a whole Moon, and changes every year, during which time, they neither eat nor drink till the Stars do appear, and then they eat and drink what they will, and all the night too if they please, at what time burning Lamps are set round all the Steeples of the Mosques, which make a fine show. The Ramasan being over, they feast three days together and rejoice, that being their Biram or Easter. On the fourteenth of March we departed from Buda, two hundred Horse conducting, and the Turkish Trumpets sounding as we marched, for at least a League together. That day we came to Veruwar, and the next to Strigonium or Gran, the Begue of which place in his Coat of Male, met us out of the Town with five hundred Horse, and two Companies of Foot. The Castle is on a Hill, and the prospect from thence towards the Danube most pleasing and alluring, the eye being boundless and wearied, as it were, with Objects of delight; but the Town looks like a Carcase, no care being taken for repairing of the Walls. The Seat of an Archbishop is turned into a Cottage, and of sacred become profane. The Chapel of Saint Adalbert is employed in Mahometan uses, yet still on the Wall the Annunciation of our Lady remains, and escaped the fury of the Soldiers, which destroyed all things else. In the Suburbs there's a Pond which continually smokes, where Frogs croak all the Winter, which is caused by the much sulphureous matter in the bottom. And not far from the City a sad Spectacle was seen, to wit, many Heads of poor Christians piled up on a heap, which exceeded a thousand. They were taken at Barchan, and killed in cold blood by the Viziers command, who to satiate his unquenchable thirst of humane slaughter, had them picked out one by one, and killed before his face, as he lay in his Tent. After three days stay at Gran, we advanced to Nemeth, and the next day arrived at Hatch, the place of exchange, and our much desired Haven. But we met even here with some difficulties and stops▪ The Turkish Ambassador returning from Vienna to Comorra, and minding more his interest then the honour of his Master, hovered there up and down, on one pretence or other, but would not quit the place, unless he first received an arrear of some Pay of the Emperor's Allowance. In the mean time Count Lesley, who on a great Plain (where no Meat could be had, nor any the least shelter from the Wind and the Cold, which were very piercing and great) stood expecting his arrival, and had continued there some six or seven hours, grew impatient at his stay. The five hundred Horse, which convoyed us from Gran, and were ignorant of the cause, were amazed, and so unsatisfied, that they drew up together, and began to look about them: The motion and agitation of our Bodies, was the only means we had of resisting the Wether, while the Messengers went between, but still without success. The Obstacle was discovered at last, and 'twas publicly divulged, that the Ottoman Ambassadors pretensions to Money, which had been made good, and otherwise allowed him, occasioned that disorder. This no sooner was known, but resented by his Excellency, with the greatest indignation, who in so long a Journey had not made the least scruple in any thing of that nature, but still preferred the glory of the Emperor his Master, and the public advantage, before his own private concerns. When he therefore saw with whom he was to deal, he resolved to go back with all his Retinue to Buda, and acquaint the Visier there with the Turkish Ambassadors sordid nature and avarice; in order to which he caused his Coachman to turn about his Horses, and bade him go on. But the Bassa of Funfkircken and the Begue of Strigonium (more sensible of the Grand Signiors honour than the Turkish Ambassador) besought him to desist from that purpose, and promised their Ambassador should quickly leave Comorra, and if he should be refractory, they with their own hands would force him from the Town. The Turkish Ambassador was summoned accordingly, and durst not disobey, but came towards the evening, and the Ambassadors soon after, with the same state and ceremony as before, arrived at the middle Post, and made the exchange. Passing by Comorra (which welcomed our return into Christendom with the discharge of many Cannon) we came very late to a Village; which was Tributary to the Turks. The next day about noon we arrived at Raab, where Count Montecuculi the Governor met us out of the Town, to which as we approached, the great Guns proclaimed our arrival and welcome, and not only the Soldiers drawn out of the Garrison, but those too on the Works gave us several Volleys. The next day was dedicated to feasting and mirth, the Cannon in the Garrison amounting to one hundred and sixty, being all discharged for joy. The Mahometans (when Masters of the Town) made under the Marketplace, a deep and dismal Prison, which hath no other light, but that which goes in at the top through great Iron Bars. Thither several poor Turks (fallen into the Pit designed for others) came up to breath fresh Air, and beg some relief, which was readily given them. We lodged the three and twentieth at Altemburg, and dining the next day at Pruk, came to Swehet that evening. Hither the Emperor sent Horses for our entrance into Vienna, which when we came near, we made a halt a while, and put into order, marched two and two abreast to the Emperor's Palace; all the Streets we passed through, and the Windows on both sides being thronged with Spectactors. The Ambassador alightting at the Palace aforesaid, went up the great Stairs, and passing through the Rooms came to the Presence-chamber, all the Cavaliers, and those of his Retinue of fashion attending his Excellency. Then the Emperor withdrew with the Ambassador alone, and when they had be●n private a while, the Cavaliers were called in, who likewise for some time were together with his Majesty; after which we were admitted, and all had the honour to kiss the Emperor's Hand. The like order was observed in our waiting on the Empress, whose Hand we likewise kissed. I should now relate, with what joy and feasting Count Lesley was received by his Friends and Alliances, but the Embassy ending here, I shall end too my Relation, and give no further trouble to the Reader. FINIS. Books Printed and are to be sold by Tho. Collins and John Ford at the Middle-Temple gate, and Spencer Hickman at the Rose in St. Paul's Churchyard. Folio's. THe History of the Civil Wars of France, written in Italian by Henrico Caterino D'Avila, the whole fifteen Books translated into English, by Sir Charles Cotterel, and William Alesbury. The Continuation, being in ten Books. A complete Chronicle of England, began by John Stowe, and continued by Edmond Hews. Gent. with an Appendix of the Universities in England. Cabula sive S●rinia Sacra, Mysteries of State and Government, in Letters of Illustrious Persons and great Ministers of State, as well Foreign as Domestic, in the Reigns of King Henry the eighth, Queen Elizabeth, King James and K. Charles I. in one Volume. The complete Ambassador, containing the Letters and Negotiations of Sir H. Walsingham, the Lord Bunleigh, and other Eminent Persons, being a perfect Series of the most remarkable Passages of State, both at home and abroad, in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory, collected by Sir Dudley Diggs. The History of the Reign of King Henry the seventh, written by the Right Honourable Francis Lord Verulam, Viscount St. Alban. Plutarch's Morals, written by the Learned Philosopher, translated out of Greek into English, and conferred with the Latin and French Translation, by Philemon Holland Doctor of Physic. The Roman History, written by T. Livius of Milan: Also the Breviaries of L. Florus; with a Chronology to the whole History, and the Topography of Rome in all time, translated out of Latin into English, by Philemon Holland Doctor of Physic. The Annals of the World, deduced from the Origen of Time, and continued to the beginning of the Emperor Vespasian's Reign, and the total destruction and abolition of the Temple and Commonwealth of the Jews, containing the History of the old and new Testament, with that of the Maccabees. Also all the most memorable Affairs of Asia and Egypt, and the Rise of the Empire of the Roman Caesar's, under C. Julius and Octavianus, collected from all History, as well Sacred as Profane, and methodically digested, by the most Reverend James Usher, Archbishop of Armagh, and Primate of Ireland. A Paraphrase and Annotations upon the Books of the Psalms, briefly explaining the difficulties thereof, by H. Hammond, D. D. An Historical Account of the Romish State, Court, Interest and Policy, and the mighty Influences of the Jesuits in that Church, and many other Christian States, not hitherto extant, being a full Discovery of all the Transactions both in France and at Rome, concerning the five famous Propositions, controverted▪ between the Jansenists and the Molinists, from the beginning of that Affair till the Pope's decision; written in French by Monsieur de Sanct. Amour, Doctor of Sorbonne, and englished by G. haver's Gent. Ninety six Sermons, by the Right Honourable and Reverend Father in God, Lancelot Andrews, late Lord Bishop of Winchester; published by his Majesty's special Command; the fifth Edition: Whereunto is added, a Sermon preached before two Kings on the fifth of August, 1606. Flora, Ceres, & Pomona, by John Rea Gent. The History of the Wars of Italy, from the year 1612. to 1644. in eighteen Books, written in Italian by Pietro Giovani Capriata, Doctor at Law; rendered into English by Henry Earl of Monmouth. Reports of Edward Bulstrode, of the Inner-Temple, Esquire, of divers Resolutions and Judgements given, with great advice and mature deliberation, by the Grave, Reverend and Learned Judges and Sages of the Law, of Cases and Matters of the Law, with the Reasons of their said Resolutions and Judgements, given in the Court of King's Bench, in the time of the late Reign of King James, and the beginning of King Charles the first, in three parts. Maxims of Reason, or the Reason of the Common Law of England, by Edmond, Wingate, of Grays-Inn, Esquire. The Practical Counsellor of the Law, touching Fines, common Recoveries, Judgements, and the execution thereof, Statutes, Recognizances and Bargain and Sale, collected out of the great Volumes of the Law, with an Alphabetical Table, for the ready finding out the chief things therein contained, by William Shepherd Esquire. The Reports of Sir George Croke Knight, in three Volumes in English, allowed of by all the Judges; the second Edition, carefully corrected by the Original. The second Part of the Institutes of the Laws of England, containing the Exposition of Magna Charta, and many ancient and other Statutes; written by the Lord Chief Justice Coke; the third Edition; with an Alphabetical Table added. The third Part of the Institutes of the Laws of England, concerning High-treason, and other Pleas of the Crown, and criminal Causes; the fourth Edition; written by the Lord Chief Justice Coke. The fourth Part of the Institutes of the Laws of England, concerning the Jurisdiction of Courts; written by the Lord Chief Justice Coke; the fourth Edition; with an Alphabetical Table, not hitherto printed. Regestrum Omnium Brevium tam Originalium, quam Judicialium, correctat. & emendatum ad vetus exemplar manuscriptum, cujus beneficio, a Multis erroribus purgatum, ad usus quibus Inservit, redd●ium accomodatius. The eleven Reports of Sir Edward Coke translated into English: To which is added, the Declarations▪ and Plead. The Reports of the Learned Edmond Anderson Knight, late Chief Justice of the Common Bench, of many principal Cases argued and adjudged in the time of the late Queen Elizabeth, as well in the Commons Bench, as before all the Judges of this Realm; in two parts. 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Scrinia Caeciliana, Mysteries of State Government in Letters of the late famous Lord Burleigh, and other Grand Ministers of State, in the Reigns of Queen Elizabeth and King James. A Treatise of the Forest Laws, by John Manwood; the third Edition corrected and much enlarged. Miscellania Spiritualia, or devout Essays; the second Part; composed by the Honourable Walter Montague Esquire. The History of the Imperial Estate of the Grand Signiors, their Habitations, Lives, Titles, Qualities, Exercises, Works, Revenues, Habits, Descent, Ceremonies, Magnificence, Judgements, Officers, Favourites, Religion, Power, Government and Tyranny: To which is added the History of the Court of the King of China. The Touchstone of Commons Assurances, or a plain familiar Treatise, opening the Learning of the Common Assurances or Conveyances of the Kingdom, by Will. Sheppard Esquire. Reports of certain Cases arising in the several Courts in Westminster, in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth, King James, and the late King Charles, with the Resolutions of the Judges of the said Courts; collected by good hands, and approved by the Learned Justice Godbolt. The History of England, from the first traditional beginning to the Norman Conquest; collected out of the ancientest and best Authors, by John Milton. A Letter to a Friend, concerning some of Doctor Owen's Principles and Practices; to which is added an Independent Catechism. Plays. Just General, by Cosmo. Manuch. The Faithful Shepherdess, by John Fletcher. Michaelmas Term. The Phoenix. The Combat of Love and Friendship, by Doctor Mead. Polyeuctes, or the Martyr. Horatius, a Tragedy. The Cheats, a Comedy, by John Wilson Gent. Octavos Large. THe Memoires of the Duke of Rohan, or a faithful Relation of the most remarkable Occurrences in France, especially concerning those of the reformed Churches there, from the death of Henry the Great, until the Peace made with them in June 1629. Together with divers politic Discourses upon several Occasions; written in French by the Duke of Rohan, Englished by George Bridges of Lincolns-Inn Esquire. The Poems of Horace, consisting of Odes, Satyrs and Epistles, rendered in English, and paraphrased by several Persons, the second Edition. A humble Apology for Learning and Learned Men, by Edmond Waterhouse Esquire. A Discourse and Defence of Arms and Armoury, showing the Nature and Rises of Arms and Honour in England, from the Camp, to the Court, the City, under the two latter of which are contained Universities and Inns of Court; by Edward Waterhouse Esquire. Lasida Pastora Comoedia Pastoralis. Two excellent Plays; The Wits, a Comedy: The Platonic Lovers, Tragicomedy; both presented at the private House in Blackfriars by his Majesty's Servants; by Sir William Davenant. An Essay on the first Book of T. Lucretius Carus de Rerum▪ Natura; interpreted and made English Verse, by J. Evelyn Esquire. Instructions concerning erecting of a Library, presented to my Lord the Precedent de Mesme, by J. Evelyn Esquire. The Justice of Peace his Clerk's Cabinet, or a Book of Precedents or Warrants, fitted and made ready to his hand, for every case that may happen within the compass of his Master's Office, for the ease of the Justice of Peace, and more speedy dispatch of Justice▪ by Will. Shepherd. Court-keepers Guide, or a plain and familiar Treatise, needful and useful for the help of many that are employed in the keeping of law-days or Court-Barons, wherein is largely and plainly opened the Jurisdiction of those Courts, with the learning of Manors, Copyholds, Rents, Harriots, and other Services and Advantages belonging unto Manors, to the great profit belonging unto Manors and Owners of these Courts; the fifth Edition; by William Shepherd Esquire. The Office of a Justice of Peace, together with Instructions how and in what manner Statutes shall be expounded; by W. Fleetwood Esquire, sometime Recorder of London. Reports and Pleas of Assizes at York; held before several Judges in that Circuit▪ with some Precedents useful for Pleaders at the Assizes▪ The Young Clerks Tutor, being a most useful Collection of the best Precedents, of Recognizances, Obligations, Conditions, Acquittances, Bills of Sale, Warrants of Attorney, etc. as also all the names of Men and Women in Latin, with the day and date, the several sums of Money, and the addition of the several Trades of Employments, in their proper Cases, as they stand in the Obligations, with directions of Writs of Habeas Corpus▪ Writs of Error, etc. to the Inferior Courts in Cities and Towns; the whole work newly corrected and augmented. Reports or Causes in Chancery, collected by Sir George Cary one of the Masters of the Chancery in Anno 1601. out of the Labours of Mr. William Lambert; whereunto is annexed, the King's Order and Decree in Chancery, for a Rule to be observed by the Chancellor in that Court, exemplified and enroled for a perpetual Record there, Anno 1616. Of Corporations, Fraternities and Guilds, or a Discourse, wherein the learning of the Language touching Bodies Politic is unfolded, showing the use and necessity of that Invention, the Antiquity, various Kind's, Order and Government of the same; by William Sheppard Esquire. The Golden Book of Saint John Chrysostom, concerning the education of Children, translated out of Greek. Common Notions and Advice of Mr. A Thevenear, Advocate in Parliament, dedicated to his Lord the Dauphin, translated out of the French Copy, by Will. Barten Esquire. A brief Discourse concerning Bodily Worship, proving it to be Gods due to be given unto him with acceptation on his part, and not to be denied without sin▪ by Simon Gunton, one of the Prebendaries of the Cathedral Church of Peterborough. Parson's Guide of the Law Tithes, wherein is showed who must pay Tithes, and to whom and of what things, when and how they must be paid, and how they may be received at this day, and how a man may be discharged of payment thereof; the second Edition▪ much enlarged throughout the whole Book; by Will. Sheppard Esquire. Steps of Ascension unto God, or a Ladder to Heaven, containing Prayers and Meditations for every day of the week, and for all other times and occasions. Three excellent Tragedies, viz. The raging Turk, or Bajazet the second: The Courageous Turk, or Amureth the first: The Tragedy of Orestes; written by Tho. Gosse, M. A.