The travellours guide and historians faithful companion giving an account of the most remarkable things and matters relating to the religion, government, custom, manners, laws, pollicies, companies, trade, &c. in all the principal kingdoms, being the 16 years travels of William Carr, Gentleman ... Carr, William, 17th cent. 1695 Approx. 223 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 122 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. Text Creation Partnership, Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) : 2008-09 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1). A34622 Wing C637 ESTC R20467 12259169 ocm 12259169 57761 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal . The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission. Early English books online. (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A34622) Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 57761) Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 175:18) The travellours guide and historians faithful companion giving an account of the most remarkable things and matters relating to the religion, government, custom, manners, laws, pollicies, companies, trade, &c. in all the principal kingdoms, being the 16 years travels of William Carr, Gentleman ... Carr, William, 17th cent. E. T. [12], 210, [6] p. For Eben Tracy, [London : 1695] The "preface to the reader" signed: E.T. Imprint from BM. Title page gives 1690 in ms. Reproduction of original in British Library. Created by converting TCP files to TEI P5 using tcp2tei.xsl, TEI @ Oxford. Re-processed by University of Nebraska-Lincoln and Northwestern, with changes to facilitate morpho-syntactic tagging. 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In general, first editions of a works in English were prioritized, although there are a number of works in other languages, notably Latin and Welsh, included and sometimes a second or later edition of a work was chosen if there was a compelling reason to do so. Image sets were sent to external keying companies for transcription and basic encoding. Quality assurance was then carried out by editorial teams in Oxford and Michigan. 5% (or 5 pages, whichever is the greater) of each text was proofread for accuracy and those which did not meet QA standards were returned to the keyers to be redone. After proofreading, the encoding was enhanced and/or corrected and characters marked as illegible were corrected where possible up to a limit of 100 instances per text. Any remaining illegibles were encoded as s. Understanding these processes should make clear that, while the overall quality of TCP data is very good, some errors will remain and some readable characters will be marked as illegible. Users should bear in mind that in all likelihood such instances will never have been looked at by a TCP editor. The texts were encoded and linked to page images in accordance with level 4 of the TEI in Libraries guidelines. Copies of the texts have been issued variously as SGML (TCP schema; ASCII text with mnemonic sdata character entities); displayable XML (TCP schema; characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or text strings within braces); or lossless XML (TEI P5, characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or TEI g elements). Keying and markup guidelines are available at the Text Creation Partnership web site . eng Voyages and travels. Europe -- Description and travel. Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800. 2006-10 TCP Assigned for keying and markup 2006-10 Apex CoVantage Keyed and coded from ProQuest page images 2007-06 Emma (Leeson) Huber Sampled and proofread 2007-06 Emma (Leeson) Huber Text and markup reviewed and edited 2008-02 pfs Batch review (QC) and XML conversion THE Travellours Guide AND HISTORIANS Faithful Companion : Giving an Account of the most Remarkable things and matters Relating to the Religion , Government , Custom , Manners , Laws , Pollicies , Companies , Trade , &c. in all the principal Kingdoms , States , and Provinces , not only in Europe , but other parts of the World ; more particularly England , Holland , Flanders , Denmark , Sweeden , Hamburg , Lubeck , and the principal Cities and Towns of the German Empire , Italy , and its Provinces , Rome , France , &c and what is worthy of Note to be found and observed in them : As to Rivers , Cities , Pallaces , Fortifications , strong Towns , Castles , Churches , Antiquities , and divers Remarks upon many of them . Instructions how we ought to behave our selves in Travelling : The Prises of Land and Water Passages , Provisions ; and how thereby to avoid many Ilconveniencies : With a Catalogue of the chief Cities , &c. And the number of Houses every one of them are said to contain . With many other things worthy of Note . Being the 16 Years Travels of William Carr , Gentleman , sometimes Consul for the English at Amsterdam , in Holland . THE PREFACE TO THE READER . AS Histories , Travels , and the description of the Laws , Manners , Customs , and divers Rarities in Empires , Kingdoms , and States , have taken up the Care and Industry of Judicious Men , in all Ages , carefully to Collect , and Compile them , to increase a knowledge in those that have not the like Advantages of being abroad , as well as to be a light and guide to those that shall make their Advances in the like nature ; so they more particularly redound to the Advantages of those that Trade , or have concerns of any moment in Foreign Countrys , by letting them be sensible how they ought prudently to manage their Business conformable to the constitution of the Government they happen to be Negotiated under , for want of a true notion of which , many Errors and Prejudices have ensued , as well in greater as lesser Affairs ; so that Wise Men have blushed to find themselves insensibly mistaken for want of seasonable Directions , that would easily have set them right , and amongst others that may prove exceeding useful , you are presented with one by a Learned Gentleman , sometimes a Consul for the English Nation at Amsterdam , who made it his Business , for Sixteen Years , to visit all the Remarkable Places in Europe ; and has given such an exact Account of them in all Material Particulars , that no Hist r an has , as yet , come up with him in an even line , but are behind by many degrees ; laying a perpetual obligation even upon the Countryes themselves , for being so faithfully particularized : England indeed is but lightly touched on , yet so as many things of weight and moment are in this Book revived , as it were , from Oblivion , and Transactions of former Reigns impartially related . The Vnited Provinces owe much to this Ingenious Pen , which has lively drawn every thing , that is Rare , and Note-worthy , in their Laws , Customs , raising Taxes , Shipping , their Bank , East-India Company , Frugality , Wars , and Trade in most parts of the known World ; with many Remarkable Deliverances that Common-Wealth has , in late years , been Blessed with from the Insults and Tyranny of France , &c. And by what Pollicies they have defeated their Enemies , and Enriched themselves . The same , or to the like purpose , in this Book is considered in Denmark , Sweeden , the Spanish Netherlands , and the principal Towns of the German Empire , Italy , and other Places , with particular Remarks on France , and the Affairs of that Kingdom , all of it being Interwoven with many Curious Relations of divers Strange Things , where a Digression is any ways propper , or that they may fall in smoothly , without infringing too much on the Patience of the Reader ; it being in the whole Serie like a curious Lanskip , pleasing at once to all Capacities , unless to such , as nothing that is Ingenious or Reasonable is taking , who many times cavel at things before they will give themselves leave any ways materially to consider them . This Famous Piece was written indeed in Holland , but now comes over speaking English , that this Nation might not be ignorant of so laboured a Work , the Remarking of which in so many sundry Nations , without borrowing , or that but a very little , from any Historians , that had lightly touched on them before , must , beyond all per adventure , require , as well as it did a large time , great Cost and Industry , and indeed the Authors stile and method speaks him no less than a man fitly qualified for such an undertaking , not leaving any thing unpried into , that is propper to be a link in the Chain of his Discourse ; for though the Volumn boasts not of largeness in the number of Sheets , yet in what it treats on , it is very Copious , a great deal of sense being comprized in few words , which is the propperest way of Writing , and most pleasing to the Judicious . But least I should be taxed with Indiscretion in Elaborating in Commendation of that which is capable of Recommending it self , I shall Conclude in a few Words . You have in it , besides what has been mentioned , an Account of all the Remarkable Cityes of Europe , whereby their largeness may be gathered from the number of Houses they contain , set down over-against them ; with the Distances of Places , Bridges , Fords , or Passages of Rivers , and many Antiquities , with other things ; so that it may be termed the Students Library , the Travelors Guide , the Souldiers Companion , the Merchants Magazine , and the States-mans Consulter : And so recommending you to the Serious Perusal of it , I am Reader , Your very Humble and Obliged Servant E. T. Some Necessarie REMARKS for such as Entend to TRAVEL Thro the Province of HOLLAND . AS they that confine themselves to their own countrie have not the opportunitie to see and observe Rarities in other parts of the world : so such as goe into forrain places , rather wander at Random then travel , who hane not the Curiositie to Commit to memorie or writing such things they meet with , both for thier own and others Satisfaction , as may Demonstrate the fruits of their travels . I Confesse all Travellers are not of alike Temper : Some delight themselves in contemplation of the curiosities of Arts , som are taken with the varieties of the works of nature , others speculate with a kind of Reverence the decays and ruins of Antiquitie , others studiously inform themselves with the transactions of Modern tymes , others with thee Gouvernment and Politie , other speculate the strange customs and fashion of the places they passe thro ; To be short everie one labors to entertain the reader with those objects and rarities of forain parts , his Genius and inclination is most affected with . As to my self , although during the space of 16 yeaves travel , I might have inlarged , according to the curiositie and opportunitie I have had in the rehearsal of many rare and exquisite things verie observable : yet my chiefe aime was to make such remarks , as might most contribute to the common good of humane society and civil life , in taking notice of the Government and Politie of the several States and Dominions where I have been , viz. The Vnited Provinces , Germany , Denmark , Sweeden , and other countries , whose natural temper and disposition seemed to me most to sympathise with our English nation , and thereby have an occa●●on to do some good to my own countrie . Expect not Reader alike punctualness , as to all the forementioned places , because very many things which I might have observed , are much agreeing , and so may be referred , to what shall be spoken of the Politie and Government of Holland , which , for reasons I shall by and by hint at , is the Chief End I aimed at in this treatise . We will begin then in the first place with the Common-wealth of Holland , and Dominions of the States General which for some years hath been in a declining condition , and their forces exceedingly weakned , by reason of that fatal War it managed against England , France and the Bishop of Munster , that Politick body was so tottered and torn , as did threaten its utter and total ruine . But as bodies whisher natural or Politick , after that a violent fit hath sore shaken , dissipated and exhausted their spirits , may recover vigor and look lively again , if so be radical constitution and natural temper be not wholly changed and depraved : even so This Common-wealth of Holland hath visibly recovered strength again and probably may attain to its former force and Lustre , except some depravation in its vital humours should still keep it languishing , and obstruct its perfect cure . We will therefore make some remarks as to the defects and faylings ( observed not onely by me but also by others ) which that famous Commonwealth hath of late yeares bin guiltie of : which I shal doe not out of any malice or disigne of reflection , the intention of writing this treatise being simplie to insert those defaults , which the wisest of Authors have alwayes Judged necessarie not onely for the reformation of this , but of all states whatsoever . This Commonwealth of Holland hath worthily bin the wonder of all Europe during this last age , and perhaps not to be paralled in the records of former tymes : for if we consider how many yeares it was assaulted by the then most Potent Prince of Europe , who aspired to no les then the Vniversal Empire , and that how formidable soever he were , yet they not onely maintained their pretensions , but with uninterrupted prosperitie and succesfulnesse advanced their trade , and spread their conquests in all the foure parts of the world . Rome it self though most famous and victorious , yet could not , as is believed , in so short a time do , what by this Commonwealth hath bin effected . In India and Affrica they soon forced the Spaniard , and Portugeses to yeeld to them most of their trade and posessions . And tho England put in for a share , yet they were a long while vigourously opposed by the Dutch , and to this hour have enough to do , to keep what they have gotten : so that in lesse then an hundred years this Commonwealth by their industrie and art in trading , are becom so excessive rich and potent that they began to insult and would needs be Arbitraters to their neighbourning Princes and States , and encroach upon their Territories and Dominions . This drew upon them that fatal war before mentioned , by which they were sorely weakned and brought so low , that except God by a more then ordiharie Providence had protected and appeared for them , they had certainly bin ruinated and never able to recover themselves again , however their pride hereby was much abated : And as Luxurie and lasciviousnes are the sad effects of prosperitie , as wel as Pride , so such vices in a bodie Politick and Common-wealth , as do corrupt the radical humors , by abating the vigour of the Vital parts , doe insensible tend to the consumption and decay of the whole . That this Commonwealth hath much recovered its strength , may clearly appeare , if we consider what great things they have effected , since the little time they have enjoyed peace : They have in lesse then 7 yeares built about 40 gallant ships of war ; They have laid out vast sums of treasure in refortifying Narden , Mastricht , Breda , the Grave and many other places : They have payd vast sums of money to their Allies for their auxiliarie troopes , as also 200000 pound sterling to the King of England to Enjoy their peace with him . And besides all this their Encrease in Riches and power may be guest at , by the many stately houses built within these 5 years in Amsterdam , Rotterdam and other places ; to all which we may ad , to what excessive hight the Actions of the East and West-Indie Companie are risen , and the obligations from the Sates are so esteemed as to securitie , that they Can get as much money as they please at 2 Per cent : not to speak , of the Exceeding encrease of their subjects , occasioned by the French Kings tyrannie against the distressed Protestants in France , Alsace and other parts of his Conquests , neither wil we speak of other signes of the encrease of this Commonwealth , as not Judging it convenient to commit them to paper , but wil now proceed to shew the Method of Living and travelling in the Dominions and places of the States , which if you do wel consider you May see , how happie and easie the Government of England is , above that of other Nations . The Brill in Holland is the Usual place where the Packet and Kings pleasure boats bring on such as come for to see the United Provinces : here be sure to furnish your self wel with money . From hence you take a boat to Maseland Sluce or Rotterdam , which if you goe in Companie with others , wil only cost you 5 stivers : but if you take one for your self , wil cost 25. stivers for Maseland Sluce , and a Ducaton to Rotterdam . The Fifth part of which goes to the States for a tax , they call Passagie Gelt : and the other 4 parts are for the boat-Men or Shippers , who also out of their gaines must Pay a tax to the States , so that by computation you pay a fift pennie to the States for your travelling either in boats by water , or in waggons by land . As you passe by Maseland Sluce you 'l see a verie faire fishing village , to which belong near two hundred Herring Buisses , but if you goe by the way of Rotterdam you sail by two old Townes Called Flardin and Schiedam : yet let me advise you before you depart from the Bril , to take a serious view of it , as beeing the citie which in Queen Elisabeths time was one of the Cautionarie Townes pawned to England . The Brill had a voyce among the States , but by reason Rotterdam hath got away their Trade , by which having lost its former lustre , is now become afishing town onely . Rotterdam is the second Citie for trade in Holland and by some is caled little London , as having vast traffick with England , in so much that many of the citisens speak good English . There are in this citie two considerable Churches of English and Scotch : and how great a trade they drive with the King of Englands subjects is evident , for in the yeare 1674 at the opening of the waters after a great frost , there departed out of Rotterdam 300 Sail of Englesh , Scotch and Irish Ships at once with an Easterly wind : And if a reason should be demanded how it coms to passe , that so many English Ships should frequently com to that haven ? It is casilie answered , because they can ordinarily Load and unload , and make returns to England from Rotterdam , before a Ship can get clear from Amsterdam and the Texel : And therfore your English Merchants find it Cheaper and more commodious for trade , that after their goods are arrived at Rotterdam , to send their goods in boats Landward in , to Amsterdam . This citie is famous as beeing the place where Great Erasmus was born , whose Statue of Brasse stands erected in the Market place ; And although the buldings here are not so superb as those of Amsterdam , Leyden or Harlem , yet the places worth the seeing , are , first the Great Church where Several Admirals Lay Stately Entombed , here you see their Admiraltie , East Indie , and Stathouses together with that caled , hot Gemeen Lands Huis . From Rotterdam you may for 5 stivers have a boat to bring you to Delph , but before you com thither you passe thro a faire village called Overschie , where the French and English youths are trayned up in litterature , as to the Latin and Dutch tongue , Booke keeping , &c : from thence in the same boat you com to Delph which is famous for making of Porceline to that degree , that it much resembles the China , but onely it is not transparent . In Delph is the great Magasin of Arms for the whole Province of Holland : Their churches are verie large , in one of which are Tombs of the Princes of Orange , Admiral Tromp and General Morgans Ladie , and in the Cloyster over against the Church you have an Inscription in a Pillar of Brasse , shewing after what manner William the 1 , that famous Prince of Orange was Shot to death by a miscreant Jesuist , with his deserved punishment . Delph hath the 3 d voyce in the States of Holland , and sends its Deputies unto the Colledge of the States General , and to all other colledges of the Commonwealth . They have also a Chamber in the East-Indie Companie , as shal be more largely spoken to , when we shal com to treat of the State of the said Companie . From Delph you may by boat be brought to the Hague for 2 Stivers and an halfe : Which is accounted the fairest Village in the world , both for Pompous buildings and the largenes thereof ; Here the Princes of Orange hold their Residence : as also the States General and the Councel of State , Here you have the Courts of Justice , Chancerie , and other Courts of Law. Here you see that Great Hall , in which many Hundreds of coulers are hung up in Trophie , taken from the Emperor , Spaniard and other Potentates with whom they have waged war. There Councel Chambers are admired by all that see them . Many faire Libraries they have belonging to particular men . The Princes Pallace is a most superb building , And there are many costlie Gardins adjoyning to the Hague , together with that to the Princes house in the Woad , in which house are in a large Hall the most rare and costly Pictures of Europe , there also are those magnificent and unparalled Gardins of the Heer Bentham , of Amesland and others . I might here speak of the splendor of the Prince of Orange his Court , of his noble virtues and valour , of the most virtuous and Beautiful Princesse his royal confort , but I dare not , least I should infinitely fal short of what ought to be , and which others have alreadie don before me : and therfore leaving the Hague , I shal onely tel you that from thence you may for 7 Stivers have a boat to bring you to Leyden . Leyden is a faire and great citie , and the Universitie is verie famous , beeing frequented by 1000 of Students from all parts , as Hungarie , Poland , Germanie , yea from the Ottomans Empire it self , who pretend to be grecians , besides the English , Scots and Irish , who this years were numbred to be above 80. The most remarkable things here to be seen , I shal summarilie set down : As the place called the Bergh , formerly a Castle belonging to the Prince of Liege in Flanders : The Stathowse , the Vniversitie Schooles , specially that of the Anatomie , which excels all the Anatomie Schooles in the world , a Book of the rarities whereof you may have for 6 Stivers , their Physick Garden , and the Professors Closet are al ravishing in rare Curiosities . But as to their Colledges , they are but two and verie small , not ro be compared with the smallest Hals in Oxford , neither have they any endowments , their maintenance being onely from the charitable collections of the Ministers of Holland , neyther are any Students to remain longer there , then til they attain the degree of Batchelers of Art : One of the Curators beeing demaunded by me , why so rich a Commonwealth as Holland is , did not build and endow Colledges after the manner of Oxford and Cambridge , answered they had not so many able and publick spirited men as are in England , and to deal plainly with you , said he , had we such Colledges , our Burgemasters and Magistrates would fil them with their own and their friends sons , who by leading a lazie and idle life would never becom capable to serve the Common-wealth , and therefore he judged it much better to put them to Pension in Burgers howses , leaveing them to the care of the Professors , who are verie diligent in keeping the Students at their exercises , both at Publick lectures and in their private howses also , where they cause them Punctually at their appointed houres to come to their examinations and lectures , besides those they have in Publick . Thier churches are rare , so are the walks round the citie , and the fortifications verie pleasing to behold . Here you have the River Rhine running through the citie and falling into it from Catwyckop Zee . Leyden is verie famous in historie , for the long Siege it held out against the Spaniard . From hence for twelve stivers and an half you are brought to Harlem by water , being twelve English miles . Harlem is famous in that Costor one of their Burgers , first invented the Art of Printing . This Costor beeing suspected to be a Conjurer , was fain to flee from Harlem to Cologne in Germany , and there Perfected his Invention , having in Harlem onely found out the way of printing on one side of the Paper . The first book he ever printed is kept in the Stathouse , for those that are curious to see it . Here is one of the fairest and largest Churches of the 17 Provinces , in the wals whereof there remain to this day sticking canon Bullets , shot by the Spaniards during the Siege thereof . In this Church are three Organs , as also the model of the three Ships , that sayled from Harlem to . Damiater , seasing the Castle in which the Earl of Holland was kept prisoner , and brought him away to Holland : In the Tower of this Church hang two silver bels which they also brought from thence , and now ring them everie night at nine a clock . Harlem is renowned for making the finest linnen cloth , Tyfinies Dammasks and silk Stufs ; also Ribands and Tapes ; They have Mils by which they can weave fortie and 50 Pieces at a time , they make the finest white thread and Tapes for lace in the whole world , there Bleacheries surpas al other whatsoever , their waters whitening cloath better then any in the seventeen Provinces : They have a most pleasant grove like a little Wood , divided into Walks where on Sondays and holly dayes the Citisens of Amsterdam and other places come to take their pleasure . Harlem is the second citie of Holland and sends in Deputies unto all the Colledges of the Gouvernment . From hence you have a passage by boat to Amsterdam for six stivers , but when you are come half way you must step out of one boat to goe into another , where you see a Stately Pallace , where the Lords , called Dykgraves sit , Everie one of these Lords hath his Apartment when he coms for the concerns of the Sea-dykes , and bancks : here are also 2 large Sluces having gates to let in or out water from the Harlemmer Meer . Near this place about Ano : 1672 a part of the Seabanck was broken by a strong Northwest wind , drowning all the land betwixt Amsterdam and Harlem , which cost an incredible vast sum to have it repaired . They sunck in this breach 400 smal vessels fild with earth and stones for a foundation to rebuild the wal upon , and by unspeakable industrie and charges at last repaired the Banck . I come now to speak of Amsterdam , which having bin the place of my abode for several yeares , I shal give a more large and punctual account thereof then I doe of other places ; It is esteemed by Intelligent men the second citie in the world for trade , and not inferiour to any in wealth . Certainly Amsterdam is one of the beautifullest cities in the world , their buildings are large , their streets for the most part pleasantly planted with trees & paved so neatly , as is to be found no where els in any other Countrie , save in some of the 17 Provinces . And although , as I have alreadie said , Amsterdam may Justly be taken for the second or third citie after London and Paris , yet it hath neither Court nor Vniversitie , as they have . And now in treating of all the excellencies and virtues of Amsterdam , I shal not hyperbolise , or flatter : for before I have don you shal see , I shal also faithfully declaime against the evils , mistakes and vices in it . Amsterdam stands upon a thousand Morgans of Land , encompassed with a verie strong wal and Bastions most pleasant to behold , with a verie large Burgwal or Gracht as they cal it , for the defence of three parts of the citie , the fourth being secured by the sea or Ty. There are 13 Churches in this citie for those of the reformed religion ( called dutch Presbiterians ) to meet and worship in , with two Frencb , one Highdutch and one English , all Presbiterian Churches , who onely are alowed Bels , and whose Ministers are maintaynd by the Magistrate . All these Churches or congregations make up onely a third part of the Inhabitants of the citie : The Papists who have eightie five howses or Chappels to meet in for their worship , make another third part , and have a long square of howses for their Nuns tolive in , who are not shut up in Cloysters , as in Papists countries they are wont to doe , but may goe in and out at their pleasure , yea and marrie also if they grow wearie of a Nunnish life : These Churches of the Papists have no bels allowed them , beeing lookt upon as conventicles , and are many times shut up , and again opened at the Scouts pleasure . The other third part of the citie is made up by Jewes , Lutherans , Arminians , Brownists or English Independents , Anabaptists and the Quakers : None of which , as was also said of the Papists , have bels allowed them , but are accounted Conventicles : and all that marie amongst them , must first be maried by the Magistrate , and then if they pease among themselves in their own assemblies , neyther are any of them admitted unto any Office in the Government , but onely such as are of the reformed or Presbiterian profession . The Jewes who are verie considerable in the trade of this citie have two Synagogues , one whereof is the Largest in Christendom , and as some say in the world , sure I am , it far exceeds , those in Rome , venice , and all other places where I have bin : Within the Court yard where their Synagogue stands , they have several Roomes or schooles , where their children are taught Hebrew , and verie carefully , to the shame of Christians negligence , brought up and instruckted in the Jewish principles . Amsterdam for the wise Statesmen it hath produced , is said to be a second Athens : others make it the Storehowse or Magasin of Europe , for that it hath such great store of Corne , wherewith it furnishes many other nations . And secondly for the exceeding great Magasin of Spices , which in antient times the Venetians brought by land , furnishing all parts of Europe , but now is don by the East-Indie Companie which not onely supplyes Europe therewith , but many places in the Indies also . Thirdly it hath inconceivable store of al manner of provisions for war , In so much that England and divers other nations send to Amsterdam to buy Arms , Bufcoats , Belts , Match &c : yea here are several Shopkeepers who can deliver Armes for 4000 or 5000 men , and at a cheaper rate then can be got any where else , and this they can doe by reason of their great Industry in the Ingrossing most of the Iron workes on the Rhine and other Rivers which run into Holland . Forthly Amsterdam hath more store of sawed and prepared Tymber for shipping then can be found in any one Nation in the world , and this is the reason why her Neighbour town Sardam is made capable of Building ships 20 per cent cheaper then they can doe in England or France : So that both France , and Spaine do many times buy them in Holland : as lately the King of Spaine bought 10 Capital Ships of the two Brothers the Melts Merchants in this citie . Fifthly Amsterdam is the staple where the Emperor sels his Quicksilver not only to the Spaniard , to use in his mines in the Indies , but for the making of Cinoprium or Vermillion , with which Amsterdam furnisheth not only Europe , but many places in the Indies . Sixtly Amsterdam is the Market where the French King bought his Marble for Versellis Louvre , and other of his Palaces in France : There are such Vast Magasins in Amsterdam that a man would think , that sees them , there were Quaries of Marble neare the City Gates . Seaventhly Amsterdam hath the most considerable Bank that now is in the whole World ; I have compared the Bank of Venice with that of Genua and both their Banks write not of so much money in two dayes as Amsterdam doth in one : further I have compared the Bank of Venice with Hamburg and find both those Banks fall very much short with the bank of Amsterdam . There are many other particulars I could name , as Arguments to prove the great Riches & Trade of Amsterdam , as those vast Quantities of Wynes , & Brandewynes they sell in the North & Eastseas , & those vast Countryes adjoyning thereunto , from whence they bring Hemp , Pitch & Tar , & furnish France , Italy & Spain with the same , & they likewise have much Ingrossed the Copper & Iron of Sweedland . I will say no more of her stores & Magazins , but shall in the next place say some thing of her Churches & Charitie to the Poore . I will not speake much of her Churches , but only that they are in General large and well built : In one of them the States have Spared no cost to exceed the whole world in 3 things ( Viz ) an Organ with sets of Pipes that counterfit a Corus of Voyces , it hath 52 whole stops besides halfe stops , & hath 2 rowes of Keyes for the feet , and three rowes of Keyes for the Hands ; I have had people of Quality to heare it play , who could not believe but that there were men or Women above singing in the Organ , untill they were convinced by goeing up into the Organ Roome . The second is such a large Carved Pulpet & Canapie as cannot be found elsewhere in the world ; The third is a Screene of brasle . The Stathouse in this Citty is a wonderfull superb Building , on the uppermost part of which is a large Magazin of Armes . The Copper Statues that stand on top of the Stathouse are very large & peeces Exellently cast , Espetially that called Atlas , who hath a Globe of the world on his back that will hold 30 Barels of water , for me to speake of the several rarityes of Pictures , Carved works & marble in this Stathouse , & of the Globes Celestiall & Terrestriall that are on the floor of the great Hall , would make a Booke of it selfe ; I therefore will speake of their Almeshouses & of the Government of the poore , of their Prisons & houses of Correction . This Citty is said to have 20000 poore Every day at Bed & board . The Almeshouses are many & look more like Princes Palaces then Lodgings for poore people ; First there are houses for poor Ouldmen & Women , then a large square Palace for 300 Widdowes , then there are Hospitals for Boyes & Girles , for Burgers Children & for strangers Children , or those cald Foundlings , all these boyes & girles have Every sonday & other dayes of Worship 2 doites given them by the Fathers of these Houses , the which the Children put into the Deacons sack when they gather for the Poore in the Churches ; Then there is an Hospital for fooles , & a Bedlam : There are Houses where Common Beggers & Gamesters & frequenters of Taphouses are Kept hard at work : There is also a House called the Rasphouse where petty Theeues & such as slash one another with Knives , such as beg with cheating devises , women with fained great Bellyes , men pretending to have been taken by the Turk , others that pretend wrack at sea , & such as beg with a Clapper or a Bell , as if they could not speake or heare , such as these are kept hard at work , Rasping Every day 50 pounds between 2 of them , or Else are beaten with a Bulls Pissel , & if yet thy rebel & wont work , they are set in a Tub where if they doe not pump the water will swell over their heads ; Then there is a House where whores are Kept to worke , as also disobedient Children who live Idle & take no course to maintain themselves , likewise Women commonly drinking themselves drunck , and scolds ; Althese sorts of Hospitals & Almeshouses are Stately Buildings richly adorned with Pictures & their Lodgings very neat & cleane . In some of the Boyes & Girles Hospitals there are 1500 in some 800 & in some 500 in a House ; Then they have Houses where a man or a Woman may have their Dyet , washing & Lodging for his life , giving a small summe of money : These are called Brouders houses , the Almes Children of this citie are held in such Veneration & respect that a man had as good strike a Burgemasters Child as one of them . These Children are permitted to travel in any of the Treckscuts freely without money ; These Hospitals are Governed by Men & women , as are of an unspotted life & reputed to be rich , devout & pious , it is very observable that the Women Governe their Women Hospitals better then the men do theirs yea it is a General observation in this Country , that where the Women have the direction of the purse & Trade , the husband seldom prove Bankrupts , it being the propertie of a true borne Hollands-wife presently after marriage to apply her selfe wholly to ber Business ; but I forbear to say any more of the Duch Houswives , for feare of displeasing our English Dames , not so much addicted , at least not so Generally bred up to Industry ; but to returne to the Acts of Charitie of Amsterdam , the which is so Extraordinary that they surpas al other Cittyes in the World , for they are dayly & houerly giveing to the poore , Every House in Amsterdam hath a Box hanging in a Chaine on which is written Think on the Poore , so that when any merchant sels Goods they commonly conclude no bargain , but more or less is put in the Poores Box ; These Boxes art Lockt up by the Deacons , who once a quarter goe round the Citty & take the Money out of the Boxes . Then twice a week there are men belonging to the Hospitals that goe round the Citty & ring a bell at every House to Know what the Master or mistris of the House will give to the Box , who Generally give not less then 2 stivers . Then every first Wedensday of the moneth the Deacons in their turne goe round the Citty from House to House to receive what every house Keeper will give to the Poore , Then on the week before the Sacrament is given , a Minister with an Elder goes round the City to every House where any members of the Presbiterian Religion live , & there ask if any Differences be in the familie , offering their service to reconcile them , alsoe to Instruct & prepare such as are to receive the Sacrament ; At this tyme a Minister may be seen to goe into a Taphouse or Taverne for which at another tyme he would be counted a wyne biber & the worst of Reprobates ; At this tyme while these Ministers & Elders goe about the City on their Visiations the people take an Occasion to give to the Poore . And here I ought not to omit telling you of their great Charitie to the distressed French Protestants , who are here in great Numbers . They maintaine no less then 60 French Ministers , & unto many handicraft Tradesmen and makers of stuffs , & Cloath , they lend sums of Money without Intrest to buy Working Tooles & materials for their work , but this is no other then they formerly did to the Poore distressed Protestants of Ireland & Piemont , & their Charitie was not a littel that they gave to Geneve towards the building their Fortifications ; And here give me leave to tell you what King Charles the second said of the Charitie of Amsterdam , when the Duke of Lotherdal heareing that the Prince of Oranges Armie was not able to oppose the french from advanting so neare to Amsterdam , the Duke Jeareingly said that Oranges would be very scarse in Holland , after Amsterdam should fall into the french hands to plunder , to which his Majestie said that he was of opinion that God would preserve Amsterdam from being destroyed if it were only for the great charitie they have for the Poore , the which put the Duke out of Countenance ; I will say no more of their Charitie , only this that they leave no stone unturned to bring moneyes into the Poores stock , they make the stage players pay 80000 Gilders a yeare to the Poore : thert is not a Ropedancer , puppetplayer or any of that sort of unnecessary Vermin which frequent faires , but pay the 3d penny to the Poore , which is carefully looked after by placeing an Almesman at the doore of the Booths , to see that they cheat not the Poore of their share ; I shall now in the next place say some thing of the Clergie , I meane those called the States Clergie , for the States are absolutely head of their Church , & when any synod of Divines meet , two of the States , are alwayes present to heare that they debate nothing relating or Reflecting on the Government , or Governers , if they doe , presently the States cry ho la mijn Heeren Predicanten , & if their Ministers meddel with any thing relating to the Goverment in their Pulpits they send them a briefe ( which some call a paire of shooes ) to quit the City , & some times Impriprison them to boot : but if they behave them selves quietely & well , as they ought to doe , they th●n are respected by the people as Gods upon earth ; They have a forme of prayer sent them , how they shall pray for the States & Prince of Orange , nor must they meddell with any other Religion in the Country , because all sorts are Tollerated , at least connived at by the Magistrates ; All those called the Presbeterian Ministers or States Clergie are obliged under a forfiture to have done preaching & praying by eleven of the Clock in the forenoone on Sondayes , because then the Schepens goe to the Stathouse , to marry the Jewes Papists & Lutherans & others that may not mary after the Calvinisticall forme , & the reason why the States thus marry them first according to law , is to render their Children Legitimate , but they may marry againe afterward as they please themselves : none may marry untill they have made their appearence at the Stathouse before the Lords , where if the parties be agreed , the Preachers marry the Calvinists , & the Schepens marry all the rest , who differ from the Religion established by Law. When one dyes the friends dare not burry the Corps until it hath lain three dayes open in the Coffen , that the friends & relations of the deceased may be satisfied that the party hath not been murdered or reported to be dead when alive , after 3 dayes the corps must be brought to the church before the Belceaseth tolling , which is at two for if you Keepe the body untill half three then the Church dores are lockt & for the first halfe houre must be payd 25 Gilders , & for the second 50 , & so untill six , then they may amers you as much as they please . There are many rich people who make that default on purpose , that they may have solemn occasion of giveing to the Poore , as I Knew once an English merchant did . The next thing I shall speake of is the method which the States observe in ordering their Maritim affairs , one of the greatest mysteryes in their Goverment ; The States Generally divide their Admiralty into five Courts , which they call Chambers : The first is Rotterdam ( which is the chamber called the Mase ) which hath the Admirals Flagg . Then Amsterdam which hath the Vice-Admirals Flagg , & Zealand hath the reare Admiral Flagg , the other two Chambers are those in North Holland & Friesland : Each of these five Chambers have their Admirals , Vice Admirals & reare Admirals apart from the States Generals Flaggs , so that when the States have occasion to set out a fleet of an 100 Shipps more or less , every Chamber Knowes the number they must provide for their proportion , tho in regard of its Opulencye Amsterdam frequently helps her neighbours & ads two or more Shipps then their share comes to ; These Chambers have lately built 36 men of war , & now are building of 7 more and all this is done without noise , every one building their proportion , & they have admirable methods in preserving their Shipps when Built , & their Magazins are in good order every Shipp haveing an appartment to lay up all its Equipage in , & on the Top of their Magazins are Vast Cisterns , which are Kept constantly full of water which have pipes into every appartment to let down water upon any accident of Fire , & there is in their Magazins a Nursery Roome , where a Woman keeps an Office to feed at certaine houres of the day a great number of Cats , which afterward hunt among the stores for Mice & Ratts ; This great Magazine in Amsterdam was built in the tyme of Cromwell in the space of 9 moneths & 14 dayes , in which tyme the Lords of the Admiraltie gave the workmen drinkgelt as they call it , to incourage them to work more then at an ordinary rate . At this tyme the biggest man of war the States had was the Amelia , in which the famous Admiral Trump was Kild , shee was a Ship of no more then 56 Guns , afterward made a fire Ship. But the States quickly discovered their want of great Shipps , and therefore built the same yeare 20 men of war , from 50 to 80 Gunns . But the great Shipps built at Amsterdam had like to have proved of no use , had not the ingenious Pensionaric de Wit found out a devise to carry them over the Pampus , betwixt those they call Water Shipps ; The Admiralty have an Exellent Method in setting out their Fleets , they neither presse soldiers nor sea-men , all goe Voluntarie at the beating of à Drumb , each Captain providing men & Provisions for his Shipp , who after they have received orders from the Lords to the Equipagemaster to Equipe out their Shipps , & receive the Povisions of war , then the States send a board each Shipp a Chaplin , & Check Master , who take care of the provision of war , & see that the seamen have the States allowance & wholesome food , & great care is taken by the Lords that both Captains & Seamen receive their pay punctually for the tyme they are in the States service , & for the Incouraging their seamen there is plaistred on a Board hanging by the foremast , the several rewards to such as either take or fire a Flagshipp or take or sinck any other Shipp of the enimies , also what pensions a wounded seaman shal have if maimd or disabled in the States service &c. The Lords of the Admiralty follow the same methodes which the States General observe , as to their land obligations , & goe throw this great charge by the good management of their Credit , for tho it be true that they are indebted great summes of money , yet they never want a supply , nay , Moneyes are often forced upon them by rich Merchants , who send in their moneys and only take the Admyraltyes obligations , with which they afterward pay their Customes , when their Shipps arive , at which tyme the Admiralty allowes them Intrest for the tyme they have had their money , & this is it that makes the Admiraltyes Obligations more valued then ready money , for it saves the trouble of telling , & such is the Credit of the Admiralty that when they have occasion for any Goods , the people strive to furnish them , & rather take their Obligations then money , because they get Intrest ; & all other assignments upon the Admiralty are very punctually payd , & without Exchequer Fees , no they are sworne Officers who are forbid to receive any moneyes for fees , being contented with the sallary , they have of the States . And their Methodes used at the Custome House for loading or unloading Shipps are very easy , in so much that the Women Generally have the chargeing & dischargeing the Shipps at the Custome House , which is a great politie in the States to make Trade easy for the Incouragement of the Merchants ; And the Admiralty are very Gratefull & Generous unto their Commanders , if any of their Admiralls , or Captains are Kild at sea & have dove any Considerable service , they then Eternise their memories with lasting Trophies of honor , as you may see by those Stately Monuments of Trump , Vpdam , de Ruiter , the Eversons , & others , nor are they sparcing in bestowing large Gifts & Pensions on the Widdowes , & Children of those as have served them faithfully & Valiantly in the wars , whilst the Treacherous & Cowards meet with the severity they deserve ; I might here in the next place in large & tel you of the Exellent methodes they have in building & preserveing their Shipps when built , but I shall refer you to that Exellent peece written by the Heer Witsen on that subject . And shall now in the next place say some thing of their famous Company called the East-India Company of the Netherlands , This Company is said to be a Commonwealth within a Commonwealth , & it is true if you consider the Soveraigne Power & Priviledges they have granted them by the States General , & likewise consider their riches & Vast Number of subjects , & the many Territories & Colonies they possess in the East-Indies , they are said to have 30000 men in constant pay , & above 200 Capital Shipps , besides Sloopes , Catches , & Yachts . This Company hath by their Politick contrivances & sedulons Industry possessed themselves of many Colonies formerly belonging unto the Spaniards , & Portugeeses , & diverse Indian Princes , & as good Christians have been at great Charge in Planting the Gospel of Christ in many parts there , Printing in the Indian Language Bibles , & Prayer Bookes & Catechismes , for the Instruction of the Indians , maitaineing Ministers & Schoolemasters to inform those that are converted to the Christian faith ; And now because I have said that this Company is so considerable & as it were a Commonwealth apart , I will demonstrate it to be so , first by their power , Riches & strength in the Indies , secondly what figure they make in Europe , & this verie briefly , for if I should speake of every particular as to their posessions in the Indies , it would swell into many Volumes , But I will only begin with them at the Cape of de Bonne Esperance where they have built a Royall Fort , in which they maintaine a Garrison of souldiers to defend their Shipps which come there to take in fresh Water ; from thence let us take a view of them in the Iland of Java where they have built a faire City called Battavia & fortified it with Bastions after the Mode of Amsterdam . This City is the place of Residence of their grand Minister of State , called the General of the Indies , he hath allowed him 6 Privie Councellers in Ordinary & 2 extraordinary , These governe the concernes of the Company throughout the Indies , & They make peace & war , send ther Ambassadors to all parts thereof , as occasion requireth . This General hath his Guards of Horse & Foot & all sorts of Officers & servants as if he were a soveraigne Prince , the whole Expence whereof is defraied out of the Companys stock . This General hath much of the Direction of Bantam and other parts of the Iland of Java : From whence let us take a view of them , in their great possessions in the Moluceas Ilands & those of Banda where they are become so formidable that they looke as if they aimed at the soveraingtye of the Southseas : They have also a great Trade in China & Japan , from whence let us return to the Ilands of Sumatra & on the coast of Bengale , where they have several Lodges ; In Persia they have likewise great Commerce & are so considerable that they wage war with that mlghty Monarch if he wrongs them in their trade . They also have several Colonies & Lodges on the coast of Malabar & Cormandel , & in the Country of the Great Magul , & King of Galcanda , But principally let us behold them in the rich Iland of Zylon where they are Masters of the plaine Country , so that the Emperor or King of that Iland is forced to live in the Mountains whilst this Company possess the City of Colomba & other the most considerable Garrisons of that Iland : It is said that the Company hath there in their pay 3600 Souldiers , & at least 300 Gunus planted in their Forts & Garrisons . In a word they are not only masters of the Cinamon , but of all other Spices except Pepper & that they would also have , had it bin for their Intrest to Ingrosle , but they wisely fore saw that the English would be a Block in their way , therefore they contented themselves to be masters the Mace , Cynamon , Cloves and Nutmegs with which they not only serve Europe , but many places in the Indies ; I will say no more of them in the Indies , But let us see what figure they make in Europe . And first to begin with them in Amsterdam , where they have two large Stately Palaces , one being in the ould part of the City , and the other in the new ; In that of the ould part of the City they keep their Court , and there sits the Resident Committie of the Company , where alsoe they make the sales of the Company goods . There for six yeares the grand Councel or assembly of the 17 doe meet , and after six yeares are expired , the grand Councel of the 17 doe assemble at Middelburg in Zealand for two yeares , and then againe returne to Amsterdam : The other lesser Chambers of Delph , Rotterdam , Horne and Enchusen never haveing the assembly of the 17 in their Chambers , so that only Amsterdam and Zealand have the honour of that grand Councel . I will therefore crave leave to describe unto you the Chamber of Amsterdam , it being the most Considerable of the Chambers , belonging to this famous Company ; In there house or Palace within the ould City are many large Offices or appartments , as first on the Lower Floor is their Parlement Chamber , where the 17 doe sit : Next to this Chamber are several faire Chambers for the Committes to sit in . They have also a Chamber of Audience , where they do receive Princes or Ambassadors , or other great men as have occasion to speak with them . In one of these Chambers are the Armes of several Indian Princes they have Conquered . On the same Floor is their Tresury Office , where their Receivers sit and receive money , and pay out the orders or assignments of the Company , Neer to that Chamber sits their grand Minister the Heer Peter van Dam , who is said to be a Second John de Wit for parts , but he hath not one drop of John de Wits or Lovestine bloud , against the good Prince of Orange ; This great minister is a man of Indefaigable Industry and labor night and day in the Companyes service ; He reads over twice the great Journal Bookes which come from the Indies , and out of them makes minets to prepare matters of concerne necessary to be considered by the grand Councel of the 17 , and by the Inferiour Committes of the Company , and prepares Instructions and orders to be sent to their Chief Ministers in the Indies , I could say many more things of his great worth and Virtues , but shall for beare least I should be Judged a flatterer : Overagainst this great Ministers Office sitt in a Chamber many Clarkes or under Secretaryes , who receive from this Minister their Ordrs of dispatches in the affaires of Company , and next to this Chamber is a Register Office where are kept the Journal bookes of the Indies , where you may see the names of al the men , and women that have ever served the Company in the Indies , with the tyme of their death , or departing the Companyes service ; Then next to that is a Councel Chamber where the Residing Chamber or Committe of the Company alwayes sitts Then assending up staires , there sitt their Book-holders , who keepe the accounts of all the Transactions of those that buy or sel actions of the Company , and over against this office sitts the Heer Gerbrand Elias who is the second Advocate of the Company : On this floore are several large Roomes in which are great stores of Packt Goods , and also a Roome with all sorts of Drugs , Tee , and Wax , Ambergreace , and Musk , and on the same floore is a Chamber where the Commissiners sitt who governe , the Packhouses ; And next to them sitt their Clarks who keepe the Registers of the sales of the Company Goods ; And on the same Gallery or Floore is a Chamber where are kept the severall Bookes of Divinitie , printed in the Indian Language that are sent to the several Colonies of the Company : And at the end of this Gallery is a Magazine full of Medicaments and Instruments for Barber Chirurgions Chests , to furnish the Companyes Shipps and Garrisons in the Indies . Then assending up another paire of staires , there are several large Magazins of Nutmegs , Cloves , Mace and Sinamond , and in a long Gallery are many men at work sorting of Spices fitt for sale . Then ascending up another paire of staires there are many Roomes full of Spices , then desending into the Court-yard there is a Guard Chamber where every night the house keeper hath a Watch , and on the other side of the Gate there is the Chymist , who with his men prepares Medicaments for the Indies ; Adjoyning to this Court - yard is their Way-house and Packhouse for Pepper and Grosle Goods ; But before I leave this house in the ould part of the City , I must say some thing of the maner or method used in the Transactions of the Jewes and others , who make a Trade of buyng and selling the Actions of the Company , the which is a great mystery of Iniquitie , and where it inricheth one man , it ruins an hundred . The Jewes are the chiefe in that Trade , and are said to negotiate 17 parts of 20 in the Company ; These Actions are bought and sould 4 tymes a day , at 8 in the morning in the Jewes street , at a 11 on the Dam , at twelve and at one a Clock upon the Exchange , and at six in the evening on the Dam , and in the Coledges or Clubs of the Jewes until 12 at midnight , where many tymes the Crafty Jewes , and others have Contrived to Coine bad newes to make the Actions fall , and good newes to raise them , the which craft of doing at Amsterdam is not taken notice of , which is much to be wondered at , in such a wise Government as Amsterdam is , for it is a certaine trueth they many times spread scandalous reports touching the affaires of State , which passe amongst the Ignorant for truth ; I shall now in the next place say some thing of their Pallace or Magazine in the new part of the City the which may more properly be called an Arsenal ; It is a building so superb that it lookes more like a Kings Pallace , then a Magazin for Merchants ; I have measured the Ground on which this Arsenal stands which I find to be 2000 foot , and square every way , reckoning the Motes , or Burgals , about it ; I remember the Ingenious Sr. Joseph Williamsen measured the two Rope-allies by telling the stone figures in the wal , & found them to be 1800 foot long , the like whereof is not to be seene in the world . On the backside of this Rope-allie lyes a store of 500 Large Anchors besides small ones ; In this Arsenal they build the Ships belonging to this Chamber : and here are al sorts of worke houses for the Artificers that serve the Company . And in a Chamber next to the Joyners Office , is a model of a Ship , they now build their Ships by , which cost 6000 Gilders . When a man beholds the great stores of Tymber , Cordage , and the Provisions of war in their Magazin , a man would think there were enough to furnish a whole Nation ; In this Arsenal the Ships unload their Goods layd up in several apartments in the grand Magazin , and afterward is removed to the house in the ould part of the City , as their is occasion for sale : In the upper part of this large Pallace sit the saile Makers at worke , but on the Lower part of this house is an appartment where the Bewinthebbers assemble upon occasion of Businesse ; This Arsenal is not to be seen by strangers without a Ticket from the Bewinthebbers ; Now al what I have spoaken of these two houses , or Magazins doth only belong unto the Chamber of Amsterdam ; There are yet other Chambers of the Company , who according to their Quota , or stock in the Company , have the like houses and Magazins , as the Chambers of Zealand , Delph Rotterdam , Horne and Enkusen . And now I have named the six Chambers of which the Company is composed , I shall say some thing of their constitution , which is from an Octroy , or Act of the States General , by which they have soveraign power over their servants in the Indies , yea their Authoritie reacheth their servants in al Territoryes of the States General Donions ; It is Death for any of the States subjects to be Interlopers against this Company , nor may any of what nation soever that lives in any of the Companyes Territories as Burgers or servants , returne into Europe without leave from the Company , only those called Freemen may depart without askeing leave to remove ; The Grand Councel of this Company is the Assembly of the Seventeen , which are Elected out of the several Chambers before named , that is , eight from Amsterdam , and four from Zealand : Delph , Rotterdam , Horne and Enkusen send one a peece , which makes sixteen , and the five lesser Chambers by turns chose the seventeenth . In the Chamber of Amsterdam there are 20 Bewinthebbers in ordinary , who are for life , and have 1000 Ducatones a yeare and spices at Christmas , and their travelling charges , when they goe upon the Companyes service . The next Chamber is Zealand which hath twelve Bewinthebbers , who have about 250 L. a yeare and travelling Charges , and Spices at Christmas ; The next is Delph which hath seven Bewinthebbers , who have only 120 L. a yeare and Travelling Charges and Spices at Christmas : The other Chambers of Rotterdam , Horne and Enkhusen have seven Bewinthebbers a peece , and the like sallarie , with travelling Charges and Spices at Christmas , as the Chamber of Delph hath . These Bewinthebbers are Elected or chosen out of those Adventerers called the high Participanten of the Company ; They generally chose such as are rich and men of parts , and wisdome , most of them being of the Magistratie of the Country . No man is capable of being Elected a Bewinthebber who hath not a 1000 L. stock in the Company . In a word this grand Councel of the Seventeen make lawes for the governing the Company , both in India and Europe . It is they that appoint the dayes of Sale and what number of Ships each Chamber must send to the Indies : and likewise order the building of Ships , and all other grand concernes . This Company is worthily Esteemed'a wise , Politique , deserving Company , spareing no cost to get good Intelligence of affaires , sending Messengers and Expresses over land to the East-Indies : They have their Spies and Correspondents in all the considerable Trading parts of the world ; They have been so industrious as to gaine the Spice Trade , not only from the Venetians , Spaniards , Portugueses , French , Danes and other Europian nations , but have also Ingrossed all the Spices , so that , as I tould you before , they sell spices to the Indians themselves : but this I must say for them that they are a Generous Company and gratefully paying respectts where it is due , as lately they have Complemented his Royall highness the Prince of Orange with an Annuall summe out of the profits of their Company , to make him their , friend and Protector . Neyther are they backward in bestowing presents upon strangers that have obliged them , as I could instance in some of our own Nation : They are also very charitable to the Poore giveing them the 1000th Gilder of all the goods they sell ; And to all the reformed Ministers in Amsterdam they send Spices at Christmas , to pray every Sonday for the welfare and prosperitye of the Companie is a Buekler and defence for the Commonwealth upon all urgent occasions : and truly our English East-India Company might be the same to our King , if the Differences between the two Companyes were composed : Especially now they have such a great King to protect them , and that the Interlopers are distroyed . And now it is hightyme I should tell you the methodes a stranger must take if he hath occasion to Keep house in Amsterdam : If a man will hyer an house , he must take a lease upon seald paper , for which you must pay a Tax to the States , and pay the Broaker that makes the bargen , but before you can buy a house you must be in a capacitie to be made a Burger . To this purpose it is usuall to take with you to the Stathouse your Broaker or any two Securityes , and there before the Burgemasters take the oath of Burgerschap , which is to be faithfull to the City , to the Magistrates and Goverment &c. but if you buy either Land or Houses , and lodge privately you will find your case much worse , Then you must pay a Legion of Taxes to the mils that draine your Lands , and for maintaining the Banks and Sluces , and if the States have occasion to build a Fortification on your Lands , or to drownd them in the tyme of warre , you must be contented with the States Termes , and if your house or houses stand Empty without Tenents , yet you must pay the States Taxes on that house or houses ; Thus much for the method how you are to be advanced to be a Burger of Amsterdam , and to give you a tast what you are to pay for houses or Land , if you settel there , and if you have either purchased or hyred an house then comes an Officer from the Stathouse with a printed seald paper , who tels you , you must pay as followeth : first a pole tax for every male and female servant in the house above 8 yares old , six Gilders a yeare . For a Coach if you keepe one 75 Gilders a yeare . For a Coach without wheeles 50 Gilders a yeare . For sope as the Number of the familie is : The like for salt : For wyne as your Qualitie is : To the Rattel watch as your house is in Greatnes . To the Lanthornes as the largenes of the house is . For Butter every 20 pound seven stivers . For Beens halse as much as you pay for the beens . For Turff every Tun five stivers . For every 20 Gilders in wood six Gilders . For Flesh the Tax often changeth . There is also a Tax on the Bread. Then there is a Tax called the 200ste penny , and a Tax called the 8th : then there are many Taxes in Trade , as that no man can weigh or measure out his owne Goods if sould in grosse , but the States Officers must doe it , Then the States have a Tax called the Verpounding on all Lands and Houses in their Dominious : Then they have a Tax on sealdpaper , and a Tax for Registering Lands or houses , likewise a Tax on Cowes , Horses , Calues , and all sort of Fruit. There are many other Taxes I could name , as a stiver for every man that goes out or into any City after the houer of shutting the Ports , also you pay for going over som Bridges , and passing thro Gates called Tolhek , a stiver for every persons , but Coaches , Wagons or Horses pay more ; These I have already named , you will say , are to many , yet I may not forget to tell you , that Milke first payes as Milke , and again if it be made Butter yea the Buttermilke , and whay payes a Tax likewise , for all which a man would think that a people that stand so much upon maintaining of their liberty should Mutinie and refuse payment . But this seldome happens , and if it doth the States punish them very severely . I remember that in my tyme there was a mutinie at Sardam about paying a new Tax , whereupon the States sent a Regiment of their Souldiers , and seased the heads of the Mutiniers and hanged up 5 or six of them at the Townes end , and severely whipt 8 under the Gallowes ; And in the rich City of Amsterdam if any refuse to pay their Tax , the Magistrates send their Officer to pull of their Dores , and if they remaine long obstinate , they send and fetch away the lower Windowes of their house , and they dare not put up others , until they have payd the Taxes ; Howerer this is observable that if any man will sweare he is not worth what he is taxed at , then he is free : but there are many so proud , that they will not let the world Know their Condition , I Knew a Merchant named Ornia , who payd during the war for his 200ste penny and other Taxes for his and his wives Children , ( haveing had two rich wives ) 14000 pound sterlyng : I also knew an English Anabaptist Merchant who tould Mr. Envoye Sidney in my presence , that he had payd neare 4000 L. sterlyng to the war , and yet the same man did Grumble to pay his Majesties Consul a pittyfull fee or Consulat money on his Ships : the reason whereof I once asked him , who answered me that the King could not raise a penny in England without his Parlement , and therefore much less , could he doe it in the States Country : Thus these Phanaticks had rather make bricks without straw , then pay the least tribut to their Naturall Princes Officer : should wee in England be obliged to pay the Taxes that are here imposed , there would be Rebellion , upon Rebellion : and yet after all that is here payd no man may bake his owne bread , or grind his owne corne , or brew his beere , nor dare any man keepe in his house a hand Mil , althought it be but to grind Mustard or Coffy . I remember one Mis Guyn a Coffy woman at Rotterdam had like to have been ruined for grinding hir owne Coffy , had not Sir Lyonel Jenkins employed his Secretary Doctor Wyn to intreat the States on her behalfe , and it was reckoned a grand favor that shee was only find , and not banished the City , and forfiture made of all her Goods ; I remember also a Landlord of mine in Layden bought a live Pig in the market and Innocently brough it home , and Kild it , for which he had like to have been ruinated , because he did not frist send to the accisemen to accise it , and also let the Visitors see that the Pig was free from deseases At an other time a wyne Merchant comeing to give me a Visit , tould me that he had the rarest Rhinish in the City , and that if I would send my maid to his Cellar with six Bottels they should be fild : whereupon I sent the maid only with two bottels , and charged her to hide them under her apron , but such was her misfortune that the Scouts Dienaers met her and seized her and her bottels , and caryed her to Prison , which cost the Wyne Merchant 1500 Gilders , and had it not bin for the strongest solicitations made by us , he had bin ruined : so sacred are Taxes here and must so exactly be payd . And were they not here so precise , it were Impossible for so smal a Country to subsist : And therefore you may heare the Inhabitants generally say , that what they suffer is for their Vaderland , hence the meanest among them are content to pay what is layd on them , for they say all what is the Vaderlands is ours the men of war are theirs , the sumptuous Magazins , Bridges and every thing what is the Vaderlands . And indeed in a sense it is so for they have this to Comfort them , that if it please God to Visit them with Poverty , they and their Children have the publick purse to maintaine them , and this is one maine reason why they so willingly pay their Taxes as they doe , for there 's not a soule borne in the States Dominions that wants warme Cloathes and Dyet ; and good lodging , if they make their case knowne to the Magistrates ; and for the Vagabonds that rove up and downe the streets , they are either Walons or other strangers as pretend to have bin ruinated by the late wars . I shall now in the next place let you know how Exellently the laws are here executed against Fraud and periury , and the Intention of Murders , which lawes were once much used in England , as you shall heare hereafter when I speake of the Duke of Brandenburgs Court. I shall here Instance a few particullars that hapened in my tyme : There was a Spark that made false assignments on the Admiralty , who tho related to many of the Magistrates of Amsterdam , had his head cut of ; and another who was a Clark in the Merchants bank , who made false posts in their Bookes , and had his head also cut of , and all the Portions he had given with his Daughters , the Husbands were forced to pay back , and all his houses and Goods were sould at his dore in the open streets ; I knew a french Marquis who swore his Regiment was Compleat , and when the States knew that he had not halfe his Regiment , he likewise had his head cut of in the Prison in the Hague . I also knew a french Paedagogue a Runagado Monk who designed to have murdred his master Major Cavellio , and his two pupils young Children of the Majors , and afterward to set the house afire to couler the murder , he had his head Cut of and set upon a Post with his body on a Wheele neare the Hague ; I could name you two others Cheaters , who were severely whipt under the Gallowes : and two under Farmers who designed to run away with the States money . The Cheat of breakeing with ● full hand is not so frequent in Holland as in England ( where some use it as a way to Slip out of Business and then to live conveniently afterward upon the Estates of other men because in Holland they are more severely punished when discovered , then in England : as on the contrary those that fall to decay throw losses and unavoidable accidents which they could not prevent , find a more speedy and easie way of Compounding and finishing matters with their Creditours if they be over strickt , then the Custome or law of England doth aford , for the suing out of Statuts of Bankrupts in England doth prouve many tymes fo pernitious both to Creditour and Debtor throw the tediousnes of the proceedings and the expensivenes of Executing the Commissions , that what by Commissioners fees , Treatises and other incident charges , the Creditours are put to such Expences as to be uterly disappointed of their Debt , and the Poore Debtors for ever ruinated and undone ; I shall therefore in this place give a short relation of the method used in Amsterdam in the case of Bankrupts , which perhaps may be taken notice of by our King and Parlement for the preventing disorders and sad abuses that dayly hapen in Executing the Statutes of Bankrupts ; The Magistrates of Amsterdam everie yeare name Commissioners for Bankrupts , out of those that make up a Judicature , like to our courts of Aldermen in London ; These meet certaine dayes in the weeke in a distinct Chamber in the Stathouse over whose doore is cut in marble the Emblem of Fortune flying away with wings , and round chests turnd up side down , with mice and Ratts eateing the money Baggs , Pens , Inkhornes and Paperbookes . There they receive Petitions from Debtors and Creditours , and as occasion requireth summon the partyes to appeare before them , and to lay open the true State of the matter : This done they either by authoritie seaze the Bankrupts Books and Effects , or Else without any stir and noise leave all remaining in the Debtors houses , and send thither two Committes to examine the Bookes , and make an inventorie of the Estate ; with power to compose the matter , without giveing much trouble to the parties . If the Comissioners find that the Debtor is come to decay by unexpected losses and unavoidable accidents , to which he did not at all contribute , it is their usuall way to propose to the Creditour such amicable and easy termes , as the poore man may be able to performe , alotting some tymes the halse of the Estate left to the Debtor , some tymes a third part , and some tymes perswading the Crediteurs to advance to the poore man a sum of mony to help him up againe in Trade , upon condition that he do oblige himselfe to pay the Creditours all he oweth them , when God shall be pleased to make him able ; but on the Contrary if the Commissioners find that a Trader hath dealt Knavishly and broaken with a designe to defraud and cheat his Creditours , as if it appeare that a Bankrupt hath kept false bookes , and counterfitted bills of Exchange , Bills of Loading , or pretended Commissions from forraigne parts ; In such a case they are very severe and not only seaze all the Bookes and Effects of the Bankrupt , but also Imprison him , and also punish him Corporally , and if the cheat be of an haynous nature , sentence him somtime to death , whereas if the Debtor be only unfortunate and no wayes knaveish , then the Commissaries use all the Power they have to force the Creditours to accept the Poore mans termes , the which is better for the Creditours then to use the Rigor of the law , in committing the Poore man to Prison , seeing in that case the Creditours must maintaine him in Prison according to his quality , where if he lyes a certaine tyme , and the Creditours be not able to prove the Prisoner hath an Estate , then the Debtor is admitted to his oath to sweare he is not worth 40 Gilders besides his weareing Cloathes , and working Tooles , and then he is sett at libertie , but in the mean time let the Prisoner have a care not to make a false Oath , for then he is punished without mercy , an Instance of which hapened in my tyme. The States haveing admitted a certaine Few to come and make such an Oath before them , were at the same tyme Informed by the Goaler that this Few had been seen throw the chinks of the Doore , quilting Ducats of Gould and some Diamons in his Cloathes , to the Value of 5000 Gilders The States hereupon admonished the Few to take heed to what he was about to sweare , because the law was very strickt against such as made false oathes before them , and at the same tyme caused the oath and the Law to be read unto him , nevertheless the Few offered to take the oath , but the Lords not suffering him to sweare , because then he must dye by Law , caused him to be taken out into another room and searched , where they found about him the Ducats and Diamonts : this being tould the Lords they sent for him in , and then Sentenced him to have 60 lashes under the Gallowes and to be banished the Country , yet because the Few had many Children , they gave a 3 d part of what was taken about him to his wife and Children , and a third to the Poore , and the other 3 d to the Creditours , which was enough to pay them their Debt ; These Commissiorers are payd by the States and have not a doit from Debtors , or Creditours for all what they doe . These Commissioners are also much to be commended for their readynes to doe good Offices to those Poore Merchants , Who haveing lived honestly , are brought to decay by losses and Crosses in their Trade : who when they find any such so Poore that they can neither pay their Creditours , nor maintaine the charge of their Families , it is their constant Custome , to take their Children from them , and maintaine and bring them up in their Hospitalls , yea often also soliciting the Burgemasters on their behalfe to bestow some smal Office upon them for their Reliefe , and Subsistance ; And here I must not omitt to aquaint you , that as the Compounding of matters in Holland betwixt Debtor and Creditour so as hath been said , is very easy and equitable , so is also thier way or method of sueing for Debts very favorable , which is after this maner , In the first place a note or summons is left at the Debtors house , and if he nectlect to appeare , a second summons is sent , but then if he neither appeare himselfe , or send his Proctor , the sheriffs order an arrest against him , and at last when he it brought before them , if the matter be difficult it is referred to two or three Goodmen of the City , and tyme given him , but if the plaintiff make Oath that he apprehends the Debtor hath a designe to run away , then must the Prisoner either give baile or return to Prison . It is a remark that I have made in my Travells , that excepting France and Flanders I never saw in any Prison above 40 Prisoners for debt at one tyme , and in some great Townes as in Harlem and other , some tymes not one ; And the reason hereof is plaine , for you cannot lay a man in Prison for an Action or debt , small , or great , but you must maintaine the Prisoner , so that many tymes the charges exceed the principall Debt , and after all the Prisoner can free himselfe ; Whereas the Custome in England encouraged by those Varlets the Pettyfogers and Catchpoles of turning a man into Prison for a Crowne , or it may be for nothing at all , if he connot find Bail , he may lye and starve there , is an abominable abuse , as also that of suborning false Witnesses , to much in use in England , which is Extremely cried out against Beyond sea . And now because I am Speakeing of Pettyfogers , give me leave to tell you a story I mett with when I lived in Rome , goeing with a Romane to see some Antiquityes , he shewed me a Chapell dedicated to one St Evona a Lawyer of Brittanie who he said came to Rome to Entreat the Pope to give the Lawyers of Brittanie a Patron , to which the Pope replyed that he knew of no Saint but what was disposed of to other Professions , at which Evona was very sad and earnestly begd of the Pope to think of one for them : At the last the Pope proposed to St Evona that he should goe round the Church of St. John de Latera blind fould , and after he had said so many Ave Marias , that the first Saint he layd hold of , should be his Patron , which the good old Lawyer willingly undertook , and at the end of his Ave Maryes , he stopt at St. Michels Altar , where he layd hold of the Divell , under St. Michels feet , and cryd out , this is our Saint , let him be our Patron , so beeing unblindfolded and seeing what a Patron he had chosen , he went to his Lodgings so dejected , that in few moneths after he die'd and coming to heavens Gates knockt hard , whereupon St Peoter asked who it was that knockt so bouldly , he replyed , that he was St. Evona the Advocate , Away , away said St. Peter here is but one Advocate in heaven , here is no roome for you Lawyers , O but said St. Evona , I am that honest lawyer who never tooke fees on both sides , or ever pleaded in a bad Cause , nor did I ever set my Naibours together by the Eares , or lived by the sins of the people ; well then said St. Peter , come in ; This newes comeing downe to Rome a witty Poet writ upon St. Evonas Tomb these words : St. Evona un Briton , Advocat non Larron , Haleluiah . This Story put me in mind of Ben : Johnson goeing throw a Church in Surry , seeing Poore people weeping over a Grave , asked one of the women why they wept , Oh said shee , we have lost our pretious Lawyer , Justice Randall , he kept us all in peace , and always was so good as to keep us from goeing to law , the best man ever lived , well said Ben Johnson I will send you an Epitaph to write upon his Tomb , which was , God works wonders now and than , Here lyes a Lawyer an honest-man . And trully old Ben : was in the right , for in my tyme I have observed some Gentlemen of that profession that have not Acted like St. Evona , or Justice Randal , I wil say no more of them , but wish them as great fees , and as much encouragement as the Lawyers have in Switserland . I now come to speake some thing of the three Taxes I mentioned in the former part of my remarques on Taxes , of which the first ought rather to be called an usefull and publique invention , like to that of the Insurance Office in London , then a publick Tax , seeing no man needs contribute to it unless they please , and find his profit by it , but the other may be called Taxes because the subjects are obliged to submit to them , but then they are so easy , that what the Publick gets thereby not only lessons Extraordinary subsidies , which many tymes occasions clamour , when because of their raritie and the urgencie of occasions , they must needs be great . Yet it is sufficently compensated by the advantage and securitie in the Estates which private persons , who are obliged to pay it , reape thereby dayly ; I am confident that if the King and Parlement thought fit to introduce some or all three of these taxes into England , the publick charge of Goverment might be defrayed with more ease and with less repining and clamour , then when it must be done by new and high Impositions , how ever our Governers are the proper Judges of that . The first then is an House called the merchants Bank which is governed by diverse Commissioners , Clarks and Booke keepers , likewise a Essaymaster who Judgeth of the Gould and Silver , that at any tyme is brought into the Bank uncoyned , the security given for preservation thereof , are the States and Magistrates of Amsterdam . Now if you have a mind to put money into the Bank , suppose a 1000 L. less or more , you must goe to the Clarks and ask a folio for your name , and then pay in your money at three or foure per cent according as the rate of the Bank money is high or low , or you may buy it of those called Cashiers or Broakers : then get the Clarks to set downe in the folio what you bring in , haveing done so you may draw this summe , or sell it in what parcels you please , but then if you let your money lye seven yeares in the Bank , you receive no Intrest for the same . If you aske where then is the advantage for the Merchants ? I answer first you have your money ready at all tymes for answering bills of Exchange , and making other payments : you are at no charge for baggs or portage , at no loss by false tale or bad money , in no danger of Thieves or unfaithfull servants , or fire , and above all you have the accounts of your cash most punctually and Justly kept without any trouble or runing the risk of Gouldsmith or Cashieres breaking in your Debt ; for such is their care that twice a yeare , or some tymes oftner they shut up the Bank for 14 dayes , and then all that have concerns therein must bring in their accounts to the Clarkes , who a few dayes after , haveing viewed the Bookes , aquaint such as have brought in wrong accounts with their mistakes , desiring them to returne to their bookes , and rectifie their Error , not telling them wherein the mistake lyes , so that I have knowne Merchants , in my tyme sent back three or foure tymes , with their wrong accounts : but if they begin to grow Impatient and say that they will stand to their accounts , then they pay a mulct to the Clarkes upon their Covincing them of their mistakes , either by chargeing to much upon the Bank , or forgetting or omitting what was their due . I knew two Merchants , who haveing for gott the one 750 L. and the other 220 L. in their accounts , were honestly rectified by the Clarkes , so that they susstained no loss ; besides this care of the Clarkes in keeping and Stating the accounts , the bank is obliged for five L. a yeare to send to every Merchant , that desires it , their accounts every morning before Exchange tyme , of the moneyes written of by them in the Bank the day before upon any Merchants account , and what summes are written of by others upon their accounts : so that the Merchants may compare the Banks notes with their bookes and so save much of the charges of Booke keeping ; Now if it be objected that though this be an advantage to the Merchants , yet what can the Publick gaine thereby , seeing the Charges of paying Officers , Clarks &c. must needs be very considerable ? I answer , that indeed it is a mystery to those who understand not the thing , but if it were once known and practised , the advantage of it would appeare ; For among other things which might be said , The Magistrates of the Citty take out of the Merchants Bank a Sufficent stock of money to supply the Lumbert , a Banck that Lends out money , and is Governed by 4 Commissioners chosen out of the Magistrates , who sitt in Court every day in the Lumbert , which is a large pile of Building 3●0 foot long , containing several Chambers and magazines under one Roof , in these several Chambers the Commissioners have Officers sitting to lend money upon all sorts of Goods even from a paires of shooes to the richest Jewell &c. This is a great convenicence for Poore people , yea for Merchants also , who some tymes may want money to pay a bill of Exchange , and prevents the Cheatting and Extraordinary Extortion used by the Pawne brokers in England , France and other Countryes . And besides the Poore have their Pawns safely and well preserved , neither are they punctually sould when the yeare is out or denied under the pretext of being mislaid , as the Poore are often tymes served by the wicked Pawn broakers . There is also another convenience in this Lumbert viz , an Exellent way they have of discovering Thieves , and the stollen goods ; They publish two generall open sales of the Goods pawnd twice a yeare , that such as will , may redeeme their goods and paying the Intrest may have them although the time be relapsed . Thus much as to the Lumbert . I was once according to my duty to waite upon our present King at the Bank of Merchants , where shewing his Majestie the way of keeping the Journall Book of the Bank which is of a prodigious bigness , his Majestie was Extreamly pleased with the Contrivance of preserveing it from fire ; saying that the course they tooke might be of great use for the preserving Patents and the deeds of Noblemens Estates ; This contrivance which perhaps may be thought usefull or imitable , I shall therefore discribe it , It is a large firestone shaped like a Chest , and set upright in a stone wall having a large brass doore of a Vast thicknes with flops to fall over and Cover the Lock and Hinges , into this chest the Booke is drawn upon Rouls , it being of such a Bulk and waight as cannot be handed in by a man , and there it is so securely preserved that although the house should be burnt , the Booke in al probabilitie would be safe ; Should I here give an account of the Vast summes of money that dayly are written of in this Bank , I might probably be thought to speake at Random , but this I may bouldly affirme that it farr Exceeds all the Bankes in Europe , both for Riches and Business , and their Credit is such that the Italians , French , Germans and English have great summes in the same , neither was ever any man refused his money in the worst of times . A second Tax is what ariseth from the just and laudable Establishment of a Register , A Tax which I think most men will be willing to submit to , Except such as designe to cheat and defraud their Naibours , and live by such like sins and Confusion , and for the most part die with the curse of the people ; This Register in Holland begitts such assurance and Safetie in dealling , that in purchasing of houses or land , a Childe tho overreached in the Value yet cannot be cheated as to the title : The methodes of which Register . I have by me for the use of our King and Parlement when they please to Command it . The third and last Tax is that of sealed paper as it is practised in Holland . The Method of which I likewise keep by me for his Maiestie and Parlements Commands . There are many other things might be spoken , as to the Government of Amsterdam , but I may not tyre your patience . However one considerable thing I would not passe by touching the Melitia ; There are in Amsterdam 60 Companyes of Foot , the least of them haveing 200 men , some 300 , which in a modest account , amounts , at least to 15000 men , in which number neither Jews nor Anabaptists who carry no Armes are reckned , only they are obliged to Contribute to the maintenance of the 1400 Souldiers who are kept in Constant pay , as a Guard for the Citty , and towards the night watch or Ratelwatch , who walke the streets the whole night to keepe good Orders , and tell us every halfe houre what a Clock it is . There are also upon every Church Tower , Trumpetters who sound every halfe houre , and if any fire breakes out in the Citty they give a Signall on which side of the Citty the fire is , and ring the Firebell , and they have Exellent wayes on a suddain in such sad accidents to Quench Fire : but I may not inlarge any longer , but hasten out of Holland . And yet before I leave Amsterdam I must vindicate her from a malitious aspersion cast upon her by the Ignorant , they accuse her to have very rudely and uncivilly affrouted the Duke of York beeing there . Anno 1681 All which is very false , True the English Phanaticks of Amsterdam were so malitiously wicked as to spread severall lyes of his Sacred Person , and stird up the Canalie as much as they could to affront his Highnes , but as for the Magistrates they payd him verie great respects : first sending me to the Hague to know what day his Highnes would please to honor their Citty with his presence , that thereby they might be prepared to receive his Royall person with all the honor emaginable , being resolved to Treat his Highnes in their Stathouse , and that the Burgers should be in their Armes , also giveing out orders for Coaches and the Admiraltys Yagts to attend his Highnes , when ever he pleased to come , but his Highnes by Collonel werden let me know that I should attend the Burgemasters , and thank them for their kind presentation , but his Highnes was resolved to see theit Citty incognito and therefore desired the Burgemasters not to put themselves to any maner of Trouble ; Notwithslanding the Magistrates Commanded their Yatchts to lye ready the halfeway Harlem , and Vice Admiral de Ruiter , Dirick Tulp , and others went out in their Coaches to meet his Highnes , and conduct him into the Citty , at which tyme our English Phanaticks Especially those called Monmouths twelve Apostels did all that they could to stir up the rude multitude to affront his Highnes , crying out to them , This is he that brought the last war upon you , and with his Jesuits would cut all the Protestants Throats ; But the next day after his Highnes was com into the Citty Burgemaster Valkenier the great Solon of Amsterdam , sent for me and tould me that although the Burgemasters which are the Soveraignes of the City give no Visits to strange Princes , unless they be Crouned heads , yet said he I have a great Ambition to pay a Visit to the Duke of York , upon severall respects , first as being the brother of so great a King , and as he is our Statholders Vnckell and Father in law , and therefore said he you shall procure me Audience in the privatest maner imaginable : for I designe to goe with you to him without so much as a footman attending me ; here upon I waitted upon the Earle of Peterborow and Collonel Werden and Collonel Porter to desire them to aquaint his Highnes with the Burgemastrs designe , whereupon his Highnes turnd to me , and said Mr. Carr when the Burgemaster pleaseth , whereupon I went immediately to the Burgemaster and attended him to his Highnes quarters , the newes whereof comeing to the Cittizens , they gathered together in great Multitudes to see whether this great man their Petty God did humble himself so far , as to pay a Visit to his Highnes , whereas the other Burgemasters only sent a Secretary and one of there Pensionaries to Visit the Duke of Monmouth , and all Ambassadors have no other Complement but by Secretaries or Pensionaries ; After the Burgemaster had had a long houres Audience with the Duke in a Roome a part , I attended the Burgemaster to his Daughter Pelicorns house , the which was neare his Highnes Lodgings , for the Tumult of the Burgers was so great , that the Burgemaster did not care to pas by them , and being come into his daughters Parler , he began to speake to me after this maner , Sir , I never in all my life met with a Prince so generally Experienced in all things , a Prince that hath far penetrated into the affaires of Europe , and hath the right measures of the present State of our Country , and discourses as if he sate in our Councell , but above all I was mightly pleased to heare him declare himselfe so freely touching Liberty of Conscience commending the wisdome of our State in Opening their Gates to all tender Consciences , and that is it , said his Highnes , that makes you so considerable and enticeth the Rich Merchants of other places to come & live amongst you , whereas the folly of the Spanish Inquisition hunts away the chiefest of their Traders the Jewes and others ; For my part said his Highnes , I never was for oppressing tender Consciences in England : for nothing more disturbs the peace and quiet thereof then forceing men by Penal Lawes to become all of one Religion ; To conclude , said the Burgemaster do but , Remark this one thing and remember it , if you outlive me , viz , that if ever this great Prince come to be King of England he will alter all the Measures of Europe , and possiblie become the Arbiter thereof : After which discourse the Burgemaster said let me now present you , mijn Heer Consul . with a Glasse of Rhenish wyne to his Highnes health , and pray when you have an Opportunitie to speake with his Highnes , assure him that he hath in Amsterdam a true and faithfull freind , and moreover he said , when I speake next with our Statholder the Prince of Orange , and our Pensionarie Fagel , I will doe his Highnes Justice ; and thus wee parted : but the civil deportment of this Burgemaster was not all , for other great ones of the Citty did their part also , as Vice-Admiral de Ruiter , with at least 30 Captains of the Admiralty Chamber of Amsterdam attended his Highnes to shew him the Men of warr and Magazins of the Admiralty : likewise Sir Dirick Tulp and the Heer Peter van Dam and others the Bewinthebbers of the East-India Company attended his Highnes to the East-Indie House , where was spread a Banquet of Sweetmeats , and rich Wines , and they offered his Highnes a present , but his highnes would not accept of any , only two large Bookes in which were Painted all the Beasts , Fishes , and Foules , and likewise all the Plants , Flowers , and Fruites of the East-Indies , and because his Highnes had tasted the Mum in the East-Indie Magazine , and liked it , the Company caused twelve Caskes , to be neatly hoopt , and gave me them to be sent after his Highnes to Brussels ; And I know it was the resolution of the Bewinthebbers to have spared no cost if his Highnes would have accepted of a Treat in their house , by all which you see that the Magistrates and chiefe men in Amsterdam were not guilty of Rudenes to his Highnes , but it was the Canalie . And now haveing said so much good of the States Government , and of Amsterdam in particular , it will not be amisse to take notice of some Bad customes and practises now in vogue in Holland , and leave it to the reader to Judge what they may portend ; There are tollerated in the Citty of Amsterdam , amongst other abuses , at least 50 Musick houses , where lewd Persons of both sexs meet and practise their villanies . There is also a place called the Longseller a Tollerated Exchange or publick meeting house for whores and Rogues to Rendevous in , and make their filthy Bargains : This Exchange is open from six a clock afterdinner untill nine at night ; Every whore must pay three stivers at the dore for her entrance or admission ; I confess the Ministers preach and exclaim from the pulpit against this horrible abuse , but who they be that Protect them I know not , yet I have heard some plead for the tolleration of these wicked meetings upon pretext , that when the East-India fleets come home , the Seamen are so mad for women , that if they had not such houses to bait in , they would force the verie Cittyzens wives and Daughters : but it is well known that as money does countenance , so Discipline might suppress that abuse . The ould severe and frugall way of Liveing is now allmost quite out of Date in Holland , there is very littell to be seene of that sober modestie in Apparell , Diet , and habitations as formerly : In stead of Convenient Dwellings the Hollanders now build Stately palaces , have their delightfull Gardens , and houses of pleasure , keep Coaches , waggons and sleas , have very rich furniture for their horses with Trappings adorned with silver Bells , I have seen the Vanitie of a Vintners sonne , who had the bosses of the bit and Trapping of his horse of pure silver , his footman and Coachman having silver fringd Gloves ; yea so much is the humour of the women altered and of their Children also that no Apparel can now serve them but the best and richest , that France and other Countryes affoards , and their sonns are so much adicted to play , that many families in Amsterdam are ruined by it not that England is lesse Extravagant then the Duch , who as I said before got such great Estates by their frugalitie , whilest they were not addicted to such prodigalitie and wantoneste as the English are , whose excesse I can not excuse , neverthelesse the grave and sober people of Holland are very sensible of the great alteration that now is in their Country , and as they say Paracelsus used to cure his patients of their disease with a full belly , so a good Burgemaster desirous to convince his Amsterdammers of their dissolute kind of life , invited the Thirty six Magistrates and their wives to a feast : who being come and the Ladyes big with Expectation of some rare and Extraordinary Entertainment , sat down at table ; where the first course was Buttermilk boild with Appells , Stockfish , Buttered Turnips and Carrots , lettice Salade and red Herrings , & only smale beare without any Wyne ; At this the Ladies startled and began to whisper to their husbands , that they Expected no such Entertainement , but upon removeing of the Dishes and plates they found underneath printed verses Importing that after that manner of liveing they began to thrive , & had inlarged their Citty . The second course consisted of Bocke de kooks , quarters of Lamb , rosted Rabits and a sort of pudding they cal a Brother here they had Dorts and English beare with French wyne yet all this did not please the dainty Dames : but upon removing away the plates another Dish of poetrie appeared , which acquainted them that after that modest and sober way of Liveing , they might keep what they had gott , and lay up some thing for their Children . Then comes in the third course made up of all the rarities of the season , as Patridges , Pheseants and all sorts of foule and English pasties , with plenty of Rinish and other sorts of wyne , to moisten them , this put the ladyes in a frolick and Jolly humour , but under their plates was found the use and Application in verses , telling them that to feed after that manner was Voluptuous and Luxurious , and would Impaire their health and wast their Estates , make them neglect their Trade , and so in Tyme reduce their Stately and new built flourishing Citty to their ould fishing towne againe . After this was brought in a Banquet of all sorts of sweet meats piled up in piramides and delicate fruite with plenty of delitious wynes , and to conclude all a set of Musick and maskers who danced with the young Ladyes ; but at parting like the hand writing to Belteshazzar upon the wall , every one had a printed paper of moralities put into their hand shewing them the causes of the ruine of the Roman Commonwealth , according to that of the Poët . Nullum crimen abest , facinusque libidinis exquo , Paupertas Romana perit . with an Exellent aduice to them that if they did not quit the Buffoneries and apish modes of the French , and returne to the Simplicitie , plaineness and modestie of their Ancestors and founders , their Common-wealth could not long last ; but all the thanks the good ould Burgemaster had for his kind and Chargable Entertainement in thus feasting his Countrymen , was to be floutted at , and pasquild , The sparkes of Amsterdam saying in all places , that the ould man being now past the yeares of pleasure himselfe , would have none others to take theirs ; And here I shall put a period to what I thought fitt to observe of the States of the Vnited Provinces only I will beg leave , to say something to the Hollander by way of advise viz , That now they are in a prosperous condition , Rich and at ease , They would looke back and remember what God in his Infinite goodnes & mercy did for them in the dayes of their greatest calamities ; for my owne part I cannot but admire the great providence of God in preserveing them from being devoured by their many Enimies they had in the last warr , besides their enimies at home , some of which particulars as they then happened , give me leave to relate . At the tyme when the French came to Inuade the Territoryes of the States General , it then looked as if God had markd out the way for the French to March , by sending such a wonderfull drye season that the Rivers of the Rhine , Beta , Wall , and other Rivers were fordable , so that the French only waded throw , and became so Victtorious , that in a little space of tyme ( what by the Treasons of some , and the Ignorance , and cowardise of others Intrusted with the Militia , and Garrisons ) the French became Masters of above 40 Cittyes and Garrisons , at which tyme there was nothing to be heard of in the States Dominions but confusion and miserie , even in the strong and rich Citty of Amsterdam it self , who at this tyme beheld the French Armie like a mighty Torrent comeing within sight of the Citty , and at the same tyme wanting water in their Canalls , and Burgwalls to ply their Sluces , and such was the scarcity of Raine that a payle of fresh water was worth 6 pence ; Thus heaven seemed to frowne on them as well as the French Armie , by the shutting up as it were the Conduits of Heaven , and yet a worse thing had like to have fallen out , for at the same tyme the Divisions grew so high amongst the Magistrates in the Stathouse , that it was putting to the Question wheather or no they should not goe and meet the French King with the Keyes of their Citty , to save it from fire , and Plunder , now nothing in all probabilitie could save this rich Citty from falling into the hands of the French , but an immediate hand from Heaven , and it had undoubtedly come to passe , had not providence caused the French to make a stand at Muyden , two howers from Amsterdam , at what time the Valiant Roman of Amsterdam Scout Hasselaer like a true father of his Country opposed the French party in the Councell , calling out to the Burgers from the Stathouse to take Courage and rather choose to dye like old Battavians with their swords in their hands , then tamely and Treacherously to yeald up their Citty to the mercy of the French , as some of the Magestrates were about to doe , this so Incouraged the Burgers that with great Courage they mand ' the walls , and heaven then assisting them with a suden and plenty full raine , that they plyd their sluces , and drouned the Lands round the Citty 3 and 4 foot high , in some places , which caused the Victorious French Armie to make a quick retreat , as farr as Utrick , else the Monsieur had payd deare for seeing of Amsterdam ; Thus was Amsterdam delivered by the hand of Heaven . A second was , when that Bloody Duke of Luxenburg , who gloryed and thanked God that he was borne without pitty or remors of Conscience , took the opportunitye of an exceeding hard frost to march his Armie over the Ice as it had been drye ground , burning in his way the three faire Villages of Bodygrave , Swammerdam and Goudse-sluys . Acting there a move cruell Tradigie and worse then ever did Turk , for they Generally fave the Country people for Ransom , but this cruell Prince caused strong Guards to surround the villages , and burnd men , Women and Children together , Thus he began his march with a designe to burne Leyden , Hague , Rotterdam , Delph and all the rich Country of Rhineland : and this he might have done in all probabilitie , for first the Governor of Newsluce who commanded the post that should have stopt the French , Treacherously delivered up the fort without firing a Gunn , and the handfull of Troopes then under General Koningsmark were so Inconsiderable that they joyned to the Souldiers under Pain and Vin the Governer of new Sluce were not Able to make head as could oppose Luxenburgs Armie , and at the same tyme the good Prince of Orange was with the States Armie at Charle le Roy. Now was Leyden ready to meet the French with the Keyes of their Citty , and other Cittyes too , for they had neither fortifications nor Souldiers to man their walls ; Thus the whole Country and Cittyes of Rhineland were like to fall under the Crneltyes and Tyranny of the French , but God a second tyme sent these people reliefe from Heaven , first by giveing such undanted Courage to that great States man Pensionarie Fagel that he forced Koningsmark to Rally his Troopes together and to make a Stand neare Leyden , offering himselfe to dye at the head of them if there were occasion , but God reserved him for a furder good to the Commonwealth by sending such a sudden Thaw as was never seen before , for in less then ten howers the Ice so sunk and such Floods of snow came downe from the high lands that the French were fain to make a very disorderly retreat , Marching up to the middel for hast , because on the Banks there could not march above four men a brest , so they were constrained to leave behind them the greatest part of the Plunder they had robed from the Innocent Country people , and the nimble Duch men on their Scatses so long as the Ice would beare them , did shoot downe the French like Ducks diving under water , so that it cost Luxenburgs Armie deare , tho they had the pleasure to burne the poore people , of which the French afterward wickedly made their boast . The third was as wonderfull as the two others , and although I doe not believe miracles , as doe the Papists , yet I say nothing I ever observed looked more like a Miracle then this , to wit , when the English and French Fleet lay before Scheveling with a designe to land , and the French ready on their March to joyne with the English and other French as soon as they should land , at the same tyme the Bisshop of Munster lyeing before Groeningen , and the French before Gorcom , so that now all things looked with a dreadfull face for the States , yet at this very tyme God sent a 3 d reliefe by sending such Mists , and wonderfull sorts of Tydes , as so separated the two Fleets , that the English were forced to quit Scheveling shore , and were driven on the side of the Texel Roade ; from whence they were constrained by the season of the yeare to retire home , and such were the sudden & great showers of raine that the Bisshop of Munster was forced in disorder to raise his siege at Groeningen , and the French to quit Gorcom ; I could ad many more observations of the Providences of God to these people , as the preserveing the Prince of Orange from the many treacherous designes contrived against him from his Cradel , but Moses must be preserved , to goe in and out before his people , certainely never young Prince Indured so many fatigues as did his Highnes in his tender yeares , of which I was an eye witnes , and had his Highnes had the yeares and Experience , and such a good disciplinde Armie ( as now he hath ) in the yeare 1671 when the French Entered the Country , his Highnes had given them as good a welcome as he did at Bergen . I will say no more of this subject only this , that the peace at Nimwegen was also a very wonderful thing , for that not above 8 dayes before the peace was signed , most of the Plenipotentiaries did believe the war would have continued another yeare ; first because the King of Denmark and Duke of Brandenburg prospered Exceedingly against Sweedland , and totally refused the propositions of France , and secondly because the French King writ such Bitter letters against the States Generall : yet 8 dayes after drest a letter unto the States in which he calles them his good friends , and old Allyes , offering them not only Mastricht but every foot of ground they could lay claime to in the world , also giveing them new Termes , and Conditions as to their priviledges in France , by way of Trade ; Neither can I forget how speedilie and as strangly the mighty French King did quit his Conquered Townes after the Valiant Prince of Orange took Naerden , which was the first step to the Frenchs ruine in the States Dominions . I come now , according to promess in the beginning of this book , to give the reader some Remarkes I made in other Countries where I have been during my sixteen years travels . To give a full account of all that might be observed in so many Countries , is not a taske for one man , nor a subject for so small a book ; I shall onely therefore briefely take notice of some remarkable matters which may in some measure satisfie the curiositie of my Country men who have not been in the said places , and convince , if possible , all of them , that no Countrey that ever I was in , afords so great conveniencies for the generalitie of people to live in , as the Kingdome of England doth . Though I have twice made the grand tour of Germany , Hungary , Italy and France , and after my return back to England travelled a third time through Holland as for as Strasbourg , and so back by Francfort to Denmark and Sweden ; yet the reader is not to expect I should follow a Geographicall method and order in speaking of the places I have been in ; that is to be lookt for in the map , and not in travels ; but onely that I mention places as I found them on my rode according as busines or curiositie led mee to travel . The first considerable place I then met with , after I was out of the dominions of the States General was Cleave the capital citie of the Province so called , a fair and lovely citie standing upon the Rhine and the rivers Wall and Leck . This Province much resembles England in rich soyl and pleasantness of its rivers . The inhabitants of the Countrey would have mee beleeve that they were originally descended of those Saxons who made a descent in to England , and conquered it ; and to convince the truth of this , they shew'd mee a cloyster standing on a hill , called Eltham , from which they say our Eltham in Kent had its name . I was made to observe also two places standing upon the Rhine neare Emmerick called Doadford , and Gronewich , which according to them , gave the names to Deaford and Greenwich in England ; but many such analogies and similitudes of names are to be found in other places of Germany , but especially in uper Saxony and Denmark . The greatest part of this Province of Cleave , and part of the duchy's of Julieres and Berg , and of the Provinces of Marke and Ravensbourg belongs to the Elector of Brandenbourg , the rest belonging to the Duke of Newbourg now Elector Palatine , and the Elector of Cologne . The inhabitants are partly Roman Catholicks , partly Lutherans , and partly Calvinists , who all live promiscuously and peaceably together both in city and Countrey . The citie of Cleave is the out most limit of the territories of the Elector of Brandenbourg on this side of Germany ; from whence his Electorall Highness can travel two hundred dutch miles out right in his own Dominions , and never sleep out of his own Countrey but one night in the territories of the Bishop of Osnabrug . From Cleave I went to a small town called Rhinberg , but a very strong fortification belonging to the Elector of Cologne ; which lies at two miles distance from the citie of Wesel that belongs to the Elector of Brandenbourg . Through Disseldorpe scituated on the Rhine , and the Residence of the duke of Newbourg , I went next to Cologne a very large city , called by the Romans Colonia Agrippina , and the French Rome d' Allemagne . Cologne is an Imperial citie and a Republick , though for some things it does Homage to the Elector of that name , and receives an oath from him . It is much decayed within these hundred years , having been much priest ridden , a misfortune that hath undone many other great cities . The Jesuits have had so great influence upon the Magistrats , that they prevailed with them to banish all Protestants , who removed to Hambourg and Amsterdam , so that Cologne is become so dispeopled , that the houses dayly fall to ruine for want of inhabitants , and a great deal of corn and wine now grows within the walls , upon ground where houses formerly stood . I dare be bold to affirm that there is twice the number of inhabitants in the parish of St. Martins in the fields , then there is in Cologne ; and yet it contains as many parish churches , monasteries and chappels , as there are days in the year . The streets are very large , and so are the houses also , in many of which one may drive a Coach or waggon into the first room from the streets ; but the streets are so thin of people , that one may pass some of them and not meet ten men or women , unless it be Church men or Religious sisters . The most considerable inhabitants of the citie are Protestant Merchants , tho but few in number , and they not allowed a Church neither , but a place called Woullin a mile without the citie : the rest of the inhabitants who are lay men are miserably poor . There are no less than 3000 Stud●nts in Cologne taught by the 〈◊〉 gratis , who have the priviledge to beg in musicall notes in the day time , and take to them selves the liberty of borrowing hats and cloaks in the night : but if in the Jesuits Schools there be any rich Burgemasters sons who have parts , they are sure to be snapt up and adopted into the societie . Formerly , before the matter was otherwise adjusted in the diet of Ratisbonne , there have been designs of voteing Protestant Magistrats into the government again ; but so soon as the Jesuits come to discover who of the Magistrats were for that , they immediately preferred their sons or daughters , and made them chanons , abbots or chanonesses , and so diverted them by interest . It 's pity to see a city so famous for traffike in former times now brought to so great a decay , that were it not for the trade of Rhenish wine it would be utterly forsaken , and left wholy to the Church men . The continuall alarms the Magistrats have had by forreign designs upon their liberty , and the jealousies fomented among themselfs , as it is thought , by the Agents and favourers of France , and especially the Bishop of Strasbourg , have for severall yeares kept them in continuall disquiet , and necessitated them to raise great taxes which hath not a litle contributed to the impoverishing of the people especially the boars round about ; who tho the Countrey they live in be one of the most pleasant and fertile plains of Germany , yet are so wretchedly poor that canvas cloaths , wooden shoes , and straw to sleep on in the fame room with their beasts , is the greatest worldly happiness that most of them can attain unto . The Elector of Cologne is a venerable old man , Bishop of four great bishopricks , viz Cologne , Liege , Munster , and Heldershime . He divides his time betwixt his devotion and experimental studies , being punctuall in saying of mass every morning , and constant in his Elaboratory in the afternoon ; for he is much addicted to chymistry , and leaves the administration of Government to his Cozen the Bishop of Strasbourg . To speak of all the miracles of the three Kings of Cologne , and the vast number of saints who were removed out of England and interred there , would be but tedious and perhaps incredible to the reader , as well as wide of my designe . I shall therefore proceed . From Cologne I took water on the Rhine and advanced to the citie of Bon and so forward to Coblints the residence of the Elector of Trier . over against this city , on the other side of the Rhine stands that impregnable fort called Herminshine , built on a high rocky hill as high again as Windsorcastle , and on the north side of it the River Mosel falls into the Rhine , over which there is a Stately stone bridge . This Prince governs his subjects as the other Spirituall Electors doe , that is , both by temporall and spirituall authority , which in that Country is pretty absolute . The chiefe trade of this Countrey is in wine , corn , wood and Iron . The next Countrey I came to was that of the Elector of Mayence who is likewise both a secular and Ecclesiasticall Prince and governs his subjects accordingly . He is reckoned to be wholely for the Interests of the French King ; who notwithstanding of that , pretends a title to the citadel of Mayence . As I was upon my Journey to Mayence by land , I made a turn down the Rhin to visit the famous litle city of Backrack , and some towns belonging to the Landgrave of Hessen , but especially Backrack , because Travellers say it much resembles Jerusalem in its scituation and manner of buildings . The Burgemaster of this city told mee that the whole Country about Backrack does not yield above 200 fouders of wine a year ; And yet the Merchants of Dort by an art of multiplication which they have used some years , furnish England with severall thousande of fouders . Here I shall take the liberty to relate a strange story which I found recorded in this Countrey ; tho I know it to be mentioned in History . There was a certain cruel and inhumane Bisshop of Mayence , who in a year of great scarcity and famine when a great number of Poor people came to his gates begging for bread , caused the Poor wretches , men , women and children to be put into a barn , under pretext of relieving their necessities ; but so soon as they were got in , caused the barn doors to be shut , fire set to it , and so burnt them all alive : And whil'st the poor wretches cried and shreeked out for horrour and pain , the Barbarous miscreant said to those that were about him , harke how the Rats and mice doe crie . But the just Judgement of God suffered not the fact to pass unpunished ; for not long after the cruel Bishop was so haunted with Rats and mice , that all the guards he kept about him , could not secure him from them , neither at table nor in bed , At length he resolved to flee for safetie into a tower that stood in the midle of the Rhine ; but the Rats pursued him , got into his chamber and devoured him alive ; so that the Justice of the Almighty made him a prey to vermine who had inhumanely reckoned his fellow Christians to be such . The tower which I saw , to this day is called the Rats-tower , and the story is upon record in the city of Mayence . On my Journey from thence I came to the litle village of Hockom not far distant , famous for our Hockomore wine , of which though the place does not produce above 150 fouders a year ; yet the Ingenions Hollanders of Dort make some thousand fouders of it goe of , in England and the Indies . From Hockom I proceeded to Francfort a pleasant city upon the river of Maine , called formerley Teutoburgum and Helenopolis and since Francfort , becaus here the Franconians who came out of the Province of Franconia foarded over , wfien they went upon their expedition into Gallia , which they conquered and named it France : and I thought it might very well deserve the name of Petty-London , because of its Priviledges , and the humour of the citizens . It is a Hansiatick and Imperiall town and Common-wealth , the Magistrats being Lutherans which is the publick established Religion ; though the Cathedrall church belongs to the Roman Catholicks who also have severall monasteries there . The citie is populous and frequented by all sorts of Merchants , from most parts of Europe , & part of Asia also , becaus of the two great faires that are yearely kept there , Many Jews live in this city , and the richest Merchants are Calvinists , who are not suffered to have a Church in the town , but half an houres journey out of it , at a place called Bucknam , where I have told seventy four Coaches at a time all belonging to Merchants of the city . It was in ancient times much enriched by Charle le maigne and hath been since by the constitution of the Golden bull : amongst other honours & Priviledges its appointed to be the place of the Emperours Election , where many of the ornaments belonging to that August ceremonie are to be seen . It is strongly fortified having a stately stone bridge over the Maine that joynes it to Saxe-housen the quarter of the great master of the Toutonick order . The government is easy to the people , they not being taxed as other cities are , and had it not been for the Alarmes the French gave them during the last war , they had not been much troubled , but being forced to keep three or four thousand men in constant pay to defend their fortifications , the Magistrats were constrained to raise money by a tax . Besides that of the Emperour , they are under the protection of some neighbouring Princes , as of the Landgrave of Hessen - Cassells , Landgrave of Armestadt , the Count of Solmes and the count of Hanau , who are either Lutherans or Calvinists , amongst whom the Late Elector Palatine was also one ; but whether the present who is Roman Catholick be so or not , I cannot tel . This city takes great care of their poor , and in their charitie to poor travellers exceed Holland . I have seen a list of seaven thousand whom they relieved in one year . Their great hospitall is a large court or palace , where the English Merchants formerly lived , in the time of Queen mary's persecution of the Protestants , who when they were recalled by Queen Elisabeth were so generous as to give the whole court , with all their Packhouses and lands to the poor of the city . It was my fortune to be there in that cold Winter in the year 1683. and saw a ceremonie performed by the Wine coopers of the citie , who are obliged by law , that when ever the Maine lyes fast frozen over for eight days together , to make a great Fouder fat , Hoops and Staves , and set it up compleat upon the Ice . It was very good diversion to see so many hands at worke , and to observe the jollity and mirth of the many thousands of spectators who wanted not plenty of Rhenish wine to carouse in . I had the curiositie afterward to goe to the court of the Landgrave of Armestadt a Lutheran Prince who lives in part of the richest soyle in Germany . His Highness is a very courteous and obligeing Prince to Strangers , and his subjects are in a pretty good condition again , though they have been great sufferers by the last war between the Landgrave of Hessen and this familie . From thence I went to Heidleberg a city I had been formerly in , in the life time of that wise tho unfortunate Prince Elector elder brother to Prince Rupert . Here I had the Honour to pay my dutifull respects to the Elector the son of that great Prince , whose commissary I had the honour to be for two years together in Amsterdam . This Prince , since my being there , is lately dead , and left behind him the reputation of having been a Zealous thorough paced Calvinist , and so constant a frequenter of the church , that some Sundays he went thrice a day to Sermon ; but never failed , if in health , to be once a day at least at the garrison-church ; where he took particular notice of such officers as were absent . He was married to a most virtuous lady the Royall sister of the King of Denmark and his brother Prince George . During his life time the university of Heidleberg flourished exceedingly , so that the number of students was so great that Chambers and lodgings in the citie were scarce , and Spanhemius was about quitting Leyden to return to his professors place in Heidleberg , but how matters stand since his death , I am as yet ignorant . This Countrey is called the paradise of Germany for its fruitfulness in wine , corn , and all sorts of fruit . I my self have seen growing in one plain at the same time , vines , corn , chestnuts , almonds , dates , figs , cherries , besides severall other sorts of fruit . And as the Countrey is fertile in yeelding the fruits of the Earth , so the people are carefull in providing store room for them . This I take notice of because of the prodigious Rhenish wine fats which are to be seen there , amongst which there are seaven , the least whereof holds the quantitie of 250 barells of Beere as I calculated ; but the large and most celebrated fat is that which goes by the name of the great Tun of Heidleberg , and holds 204 fouders of wine , and cost 705 L. Sterling in buildiug , for which one may have a very good house built . This fat I have seen twice , and the first time was , when the Elector treated the French Ambassadours that came to conclude the match betwixt his daughter and Monsieur the French Kings brother , who married her after the death of our Kings sister his first wife : at which treat there happened an adventure that I shall here please the Reader with . In a gallery that is over this fat the Elector caused a table to be placed in the midle , exactly above the bunghole of this Monstrous vessell , and to be covered with a costly banquet of all sorts of sweet meats : The day before , all the wine being emptied out of this Tun into other Fat 's , a litle before the Ambassadours with other forrein Ministers and Persons of qualitie mounted the stairs to come to the place of entertainment ; The Elector caused twelve drummers with as many Trumpeters , some Kettledrums and other musick to be lodged in the belly of the Tun , with orders to strike up upon a signall given , when the Elector drank the French Kings health . All being sate down at table and merrily feeding , the Elector drank the health , and the signall was given ; whereupon the musick began to play its part with such a roaring and uncouth noise out of that vast cavitie below , that the French and other Persons of qualitie who were unacquainted with the designe , looking upon it to be an infernall and ominous sound , in great astonishment began to cry out Jesus Marie . The worlds at an end , and to shift every one for himself in so great disorder and confusion , that for haste to be gone they tumbled down staires one over another . All that the Elector could say to compose them , was either not heard or not valued , nor could any thing satisfie and reassure them , till they saw the Actors com marching out of their den . Had not many Persons of qualitie and travellers seen this Fat as wel as my self who know that what I say of its incredible bigness to be true , I should be afraid the Reader might think I imposed upon his credulitie . From Heidleberg I went to see that impregnable Fort or citadell of Manheim alias Fredericks-berg built by the Elector Frederick brother to Prince Rupert , a Prince of as good a head as any Germany affoarded , who though some have too partially Judged of him by his misfortunes , yet by the wisest of the age was acconnted the Cato of Germany . The wisest and best-men of the world have been unfortunate , which makes some to be of the opinion that God in his wisdom thinks fit it should be so , least otherwise they might attribute their prosperitie rather to the wise direction of their own conduct , then his all seeing Providence : and indeed , dayly experience seemes to evince the truth of this , since wee see knaves and fools advanced to preferment and richess , when men of virtue and parts die neglected and poor in the eyes of the world , though rich in the enioyment of a contented mind . But this is a digression which the honour I have for the memory of that great man hath led mee into , and therefore I hope will be pardoned by the Reader . In the citadel of Manheim I saw some of the Records of that illustrious familie , which without dispute is the most ancient of all the Secular Electors , being elder to that of Bavaria which sprung from one and the same stock , to wit , two Emperours of Germany . Many writers derive them originally from Charle le maigne , by the line of Pepin King of France . There have been severall Emperours of that race , one King of Denmark and four Kings of Sweden , one of which was King of Norway also , besides many great Generals of Armies in Germany , Hungary , France and other Countries . Since I can remember there vere five Protestant Princes heires to that Electorall dignity alive ; which now by their death is fallen to the Duke of Newbourg a Roman Catholick , whose Daughter is Empress of Germany and another of his Daughters maryed to the King of Portugall . Being so neare Strasbourg , I had the curiositie to goe see what figure that famous citie now made since it had changed its master ; for I had been thrice there before , when it flourished under the Emperours protection , with the liberty of a Hausiatick town : And Indeed I found it so disfigured , that had it not been for the stately Cathedrall Church , and fair streets and buildings , I could scarcely have know'n it . In the streets and Exchange which formerly were thronged with sober rich and peaceable Merchants , you meet with none hardly now but men in buff Coats and scarffs with rabbles of Soldiers their attendants . The churches I confess are gayer , but not so much frequented by the inhabitants as heretofore , seing the Lutherans are thrust into the meanest churches and most of the chiefe Merchants both Lutherans and Calvinists removed to Holland and Hambourg . Within a few years , I beleeve it will be just such another city for trade and Richess as Brisac is . It was formerly a rich city and well stockt with Merchants and wealthy inhabitants , who lived under a gentle and easy government ; but now the Magistrats have litle else to doe in the government , but onely to take their rules and measures from a citadell and great guns , which are Edicts that Merchants least understand . I confess Strasbourg is the less to be pityed that it so tamely became a slave , and put on its chains without any strugling . Those Magistrats who were instruments in it , are now sensible of their own folly , and bite their nails for anger , finding themselves no better but rather worse hated than the other Magistrats , who did what they could to hinder the reception of their new masters the French. I quickly grew weary of being here , meeting with nothing but complaints of poverty , and paying exorbitant taxes ; I therefore soon returned to my Petty - London Francfort , and from thence went to Cassells , the chiefe residence of the Landgrave of Hessen . This Prince is a Calvinist , as most of his subjects are , very grave and Zealous in his religion : He married a Princess of Courland , by whom he hath an hopefull issue , to wit , three sons and two Daughters . The late King was God father to one of his sons , who was Christened by the name of Charles . Captain William Legg Brother to the Lord Dartmouth representing his Majestie as his Envoy . The court of this Prince does indeed resemble a well governed colledge , or Religious Cloyster , in regard of its modestie and regularitie in all things , and especially in the houres of devotion . He is rich in money , and entertains about nine thousand men in constant pay , under the command of Count van derlipp , a brave and expert Soldier his Lieutenant Generall ; but can bring many more upon occasion into field . This familie hath been very happy both in its progenie and alliances , many wise Princes of both sexes having sprung from it ; and the mother of this present Landgrave may be reckoned amongst the illustrious women of the present and past ages . After the death of William the 5. Landgrave of Hessen her husband , she not only supported but advanced the war wherein he was engaged , did many signall actions , Enlarged her territories , and at the conclusion of the peace kept under her pay 56 Cornets of horse in five Regiments , 166 Companies of foot , besides thirteen Companies of Dragons , and 14 independent Companies , in all 249 Companies of horse and foot ; she was a Princess extreamly obliging to strangers : especially virtuous and learned divines . I had the honour a good many yeares agoe to kisse her highnesses hand ; at which time she was mighty Zealous in promoting an accommodation amongst different Religions , as the Roman Catholick , Lutheran and Calvinist , but especially betwixt the two latter , and therefore entertained Doctor Duris at her court in Cassels who wrote severall pieces upon that subject of reconciliation , and with lome of his friends had a conference with a learned priest that came from Rome to forward the project ; whereupon the Doctor published his book of the Harmoney of Consent , which is highly esteemed in Germany . From this Princes court I directed my journey to Hanover , taking Lambspring in my way , a place where there is a convent of English Monks ; and there I met with a very aged worthy and harmeless Gentleman St. Thomas Gascoigue , a Person of more integrity and pietie then to be guilty , so much as in thought , of what miscreants falsly swore against him in the licentions time of plotting ; the Lord Abbot and severall of the Monks I had seen there formerly . This monastery is very obliging to all strangers that travell that way , as well as to theire own Countreymen , and is highly respected by the neighbouring Princes of all persuasions , as the Princes of the house of Lunenburg , the Landgrave of Hessen , and Elector of Cologne , who as Bishop of Hildersheim is their ordinary . The town of Lambspring is Lutheran though under the government of the Lord Abbot and his chapter , who constantly choose Lutheran Magistrats and Officers for the civill administration , and live together in that love and unitie , that as yet there hath never the least debate happened amongst them ; and indeed this harmoney is now to be observed in most parts of Germany where different Religions are professed . When I considered so many goodly faces both of Monks and students in that Abbey , I could not forbeare to make a serious reflexion on the number of the English whom I had seen in the colledges and Cloysters abroad , as at Rome , Rattesbonne , Wirtzburg in Lorraine , at Liege , Louvain , Brussels , Dunkerk , Ghent , Paris , and other places , besides the severall Nunneries , and withall on the loss that both King and Kingdome suffered thereby , when so many of our natives both men and women should be constrained to spend their own Estats and the benevolence of others in a strange Land , which amounts to more money than at first one may imagine ; and this thought , I confess , made me wish it were otherwise . I would not have the Reader to mistake mee here , as if I espoused , or pleaded for any particular party ; No , I plead onely for the sentiments of humanity , without which our nature degenerates into that of brutes , and for the love that every honest man ought to have for his Countrey . I am asmuch a friend to the Spanish Inquisition , as to the persecuting of tender Conscienced protestants , provided there be no more but Conscience in the case ; and I could heartily with that Papists and Protestants could live as lovingly together in England as they doe in Holland , Germany , and other Countries ; for give mee leave to say it , I love not that Religion which in stead of exalting , destroys the Principles of morality and humane societie . I have met with honest men of all persuasions , even Turks and Jews , who in their lives and manners have far exceeded many of our Enthusiastick professors at home ; and when ever this happened , I could not forbeare to love the men without embraceing there Religion , for which they themselves are to account to their great master and Judge . In my progress towards Hanover I touched at Hildersheim a city whose Magistrates are Lutheran , though Roman Catholicks have the Cathedrall Church , and severall monasteries there . The court of Hanover makes another kind of figure than that of Cassels , it being the court of a greater Prince , who is Bishop of Osnaburg , duke of Brunswick Lunenburg , Hanover &c. Here I had the honour to kiss the hands of the Princess Royall Sophia youngest sister to the late Prince Rupert . Her highness has the character of the Merry debonnaire Princess of Germany , a lady of extraordinary virtue and accomplishments , and mistriss of the Italian , French , High and low dutch and English languages , which she speaks to perfection . Her husband has the title of the Gentlemen of Germany , a gracefull and comely Prince both a foot and on horseback , civill to strangers beyond compare , infinitely Kind and beneficent to people in distress , and known in the world for a valiant and experienced Soldier . I had the honour to see his troops which without controversie are as good men , and commanded by as expert Officers as any are in Europe : Amongst his Officers I found brave Steel-hand Gordon Collonel of an Excellent Regiment of horse , Grimes , Hamilton , Talbot and others of our Kings subjects . God hath blest the Prince with a numerous offspring , having six sons all galant Princes ; of whom the two eldest signalized themselves so bravely at the raising of the siege of Vienna , that as an undoubted proofe of their valour they brought three Turks home to this court prisoners . His Eldest son is married to a most beautifull Princess sole heiress of the duke of Lunenbourg and Zell his elder brother ; as the lovely Princess his daughter is lately married to the Electorall Prince of Brandenbourg . He is a gracious Prince to his people , and keeps a very splendid court , having in his stables for the use of himself and children no less than fifty two sets of coach horses . he himself is Lutheran , but as his subjects are Christians of different persuasions , nay and some of them Jews too , so both in his court and army he entertains Gentlemen of various opinions and Countries , as Italian abbots , and Gentlemen that serve him , and many Calvinist French Officers : neither is he so bigotted in his Religion but that he and his Children goe many times to Church with the Princess who is a Calvinist , and joine with her in her devotion . His Countrey is good , having gold and silver mines in it , and his subjects live well under him ; as doe those also of his brother the duke of Lunenbourg , and their Cozen the duke of Wolfembottel , which are the three Princes of the house of Lunenbourg ; of whom it may be said that they have alwayes stuck honestly to the right side , and befriended the interests of the Empire ; so that no by respect , neither honour nor profit , could ever prevail with them , as it has with others , to make them abandon the publick concern . From this Princes court I went to Zell the residence of the duke the elder brother of the familie . This Prince is called the mighty Nimrod becaus of the great delight he takes in horses , dogs and hunting . He did mee the honour to let mee see his stables , wherein he keeps 370 horses most of them English , or of English breed . His dogs which are also English , are so many , that with great care they are quartered in severall apartments according to their Kind and qualities , there being a large office like a brewhouse employed for boyling of malt and Corn for them . It is this valiant Prince who tooke Tieves from the French , and made the Mareshall de Crequi prisoner : he is extreamely obliging to strangers , and hath severall brave Scottish Officers under his pay , as Major General Erskin , Graham , Coleman , Hamilton Melvin and others . His Lieutenant General is one Chavot a Protestant of Alsatia an excellent and experienced commander ; who did mee the honour to treat mee three days at his house , where with all his Scottish and English Officers , whom he had invited , wee liberally drank to the health of our present King , having , as he told us , served under his Majestie , when duke of York , both in France and Flanders , where he gained the reputation both for skill and conduct in the wars not onely from Mareshall Turin a competent Judge , but also from all other General Persons who had the honour to know him , that fame hath made better know'n in the world than the encomium which that generous Gentleman ingenuously gave , and which heere I spare to relate . I shall adde no more concerning this Prince , his Officers , or Countrey ; but that he with the other two Princes of the house of Lunenbourg Hanover and Wolfenbottel , can upon occasion bring into the field 36000 Soldiers whom they keep in constant pay , and such men as I never saw better in my life . After some stay at the Court of the duke of Zell I went to Hambourg a famous Hansiatick town . It is a republick and city of great trade , occasioned partly by the English Company of Merchant adventures , but much more by the dutch Protestants who in the time of the Duke of Alba forsook the low Countries and seltled here , and the Protestants also who were turned out of Cologne and other places in Germany ; who nevertheless are not now allowed publick Churches within the citie , but at a place called Altena a village belonging to the King of Denmark , a quarter of an houres walk distant from Hambourg . This Commonwealth is Lutheran and governed by four Burgemasters , twenty four Radtsheres , and a common Council of all the Burghers who have above 40 schellings per annum free hold . The symbole or Motto under their Armes is , da pacem domine in diebus nostris , and in their Standart are these letters S. P. Q. H. The people here grone under heavy taxes and impositions ; The State becaus of continuall Alarms they have from the King of Denmark or other neighbours ; and the intestine broiles that frequently happen here , as well as at Cologne , where the Burgemasters are often in danger of their lives from the mutinous mobile ; being sorced to maintain six or seaven thousand men in pay , besides two or three men of war to guard their havens from pirats . I shall not name all the wayes of imposing taxes which this Commonwealth uses , becaus in most they imitate the methods of the States Generall as to that , which have bin mentioned before : I shall onely take notice of some peculiar customes they have , wherein they differ from Holland . When a Barber , shoe maker , or any other Artizan dies , leaving a widow and Children , another of the same trade is not admitted to set up for himself as a master ; unless he compound with the widow for a piece of money , or else marry her , or a daughter of hers with her consent . If any man cause another to be arrested for debt or upon any other suit , the plaintif must goe along with the Officer who arrests the party and stay by him untill the prisoner be examined by the sheriff ; so that if the sheriff be not to be spoken with that night , the plaintiff must tarry with the prisoner all night , untill the sheriff examine the matter , and see cause of discharging or committing the party ; but this a plaintiff may doe by a procuration Notariall . If a prisoner be committed for debt , the plaintiff must maintain him in prison according to his qualitie : and if the party lye in prison during the space of six yeares , at the expiration of that time the prisoner is discharged ; and if during the time of his imprisonment , the plaintif doe not punctually pay the prisoners allowance at the months end , the prisoner is set at liberty , and nevertheless the plaintiff must pay the Gailer the last months allowance . This state is severe in the execution of Justice against thieves , murders and cheats . There is no pardon to be expected for murder , and a Burgemaster himself if guilty cannot escape . The punishment for Murder is here as in Sweden , breaking malefactors on the wheele , pinching their breasts and Arms with hot Pincers , speeting them in at the fundament and out at the shoulder , they have also cruel wayes of torturing to make prisoners confess ; And are very carefull not to be cheated in their publick revenue , their accisemen and collectors being punished as in Holland . They take a very good course not to be cheated in their accise ; for all the mils of the Countrey are in the hands the State ; so that no baker nor brewer can grind his own corn , but must have it ground at the States mills , where they pay the accise . There is a Generall tax upon all houses , and that is the Eight penny , which nevertheless does not excuse them from chimney money . The States here as at Genoa in Italy are the publick vintners , of whom all people must buy their wine , which they buy from the Merchants , or otherwise import it in their own ships . In their ceremonies of burying and Christening , they are ridiculously prodigall ; as for instance . If one invite a Burgemaster , he must give him a ducat in gold , if a Raedtsheer , that is , an Alderman , a Rixdollar , to every Preacher , Doctor of Physick , Advocat or Secretary halfe a Rixdollar , and to every Schoolmaster the third part of a Rixdoller . The women are the inviters to Burialls , weddings and Christenings , who weare an Antick Kind of a dress , having mitered caps as high again as the Miter of a Bishop . The Churches here are rich in revenues , and ornaments , as Images and Stately Organs wherein they much delight . They are great lovers of Musick ▪ in so much that I have told 75 masters of severell sorts of Musick in one Church , besides those who were in the Organ ▪ gallery . Their Organs are extraordinarely large . I measured the great pipes in the Organs of St. Catharins and St. James's Churches , and found them to be 3 foot and 3 quarters in circumference and 32 foot long ; in each of which Organs there are two Pipes 5 foot and 8 inches round . The wealth and trade of this citie encreases dayly : They send one year with another 70 Ships to Greenland , and have wonderfully engrossed that trade from England and Holland , and it is beleeved that small and great there are belonging to this Commonwealth five thousand sayl of Ships . After Amsterdam , Genoa , and Venice their bank is reckoned the chiefe in credit ; but in trade they are accounted the third in Europe , and come next to London and Amsterdam . Hambourg is now become the Magazine of Germany and of the baltick and northern seas . They give great priviledges to the Jewes , and to all strangers whatsoever , Especially the English Company of Merchant Adventurers , whom they allow a large building , where they have a Church , and where the deputy governour , Secretary , Minister , and the other Officers of the Company live , to whom they yearly make present of Wine , Beere , Sheep , Salmond and Sturgeon in their seasons . And so much of Hambourg . From Hambourg I went to Lubeck , which is also a Commonwealth and Imperiall town . It is a large well built city containing ten parish Churches ; the Cathedrall dedicated to St. Peter being in length 500 foot , with two high spires all covered with brass as the rest of the Churches of that ciry are . In former times this city was the place where the deputies of all the Hansiatick towns assembled , and was once so powerfull as to make war against Denmark and Sweden , and to conquer severall places and Islands belonging to those two Crowns , nay and to lend Ships to England and other Potentates , without any prejudice to their own trade , wherein they vied in all parts with their neighbours ; but it is now exceedingly run into decay not onely in territories , but in wealth and trade also . And the reason of that was chiefely the inconsiderate zeal of their Lutheran Ministers who perswaded the Magistrates to banish all Roman Catholicks , Calvinists , Jews , and all that dissented from them in matter of Religion , even the English Company too , who all went and setled in Hambourg , to the great advantage of that city and almost ruine of Lubeck , which hath not now above 200 Ships belonging to it , nor more territories to the State ; than the city it self and a small part called Termond about eight miles distant from it . The rest of there territories are now in the possession of the Danes and Swedes , by whom the burghers are so continually allarmed , that they are quite tired out with keeping guard and paying of Taxes . The city is indeed well fortified ; but the government not being able to maintain above 1500 Soldiers in pay , 400 Burghers in two Companies are obliged to watch every day . They have a large well built Stathouse , and an Exchange covered , on the top whereof the globes of the world are painted . This Exchange is about fifty yards in the length , and but fifteen in breadth ; over it there is a Roome where the skins of five Lions which the Burghers killed at the city gates in the year 1252 are kept stuft . The great market place is very large where a monumentall stone is to be seen , on which one of their Burgemasters was beheaded for running away without fighting in a sea engagement . The people here spend much time in their Churches at devotion , which consists chiefely in singing . The women are beautifull but disfigured with a kind of Antick dress ; they wearing cloaks like men . It is cheap living in this town ; for one may hire a palace for a matter of 20 L. a year , and have provisions at very reasonable rates : besides the air and water is very good ; the city being supplied with fountains of Excellent fresh water , which Hambourg wants ; and good ground for cellerage , there being cellars here fourty or fifty foot deep . I had the curiosity to goe from Lubeck to see the Ancient city of Magdeburg , but found it so ruined and decayed by the Swedish war , that I had no encouragement to stay there . I therefore hastened to Berlin the chiefe residence of the Elector of Brandenbourg , at whose Court I mett with a very Ingenuous French Merchant who tould me that he and divers other Merchants were designed to have lived in England , but were discouraged by a letter sent from London , by a French man that was removeing from thence to Amsterdam , for these following reason which I coppied out of his Letter ; First because the Reformed Religion is persecuted in England as it is in France , the which I tould him was a great untruth , for it is apparent that they have been all along graciously admitted , and received into his Majesties Dominions , without interruption , & allowed the free exercise of their owne forme of worship , according to the Doctrine & discipline of the Churches of France , nor can they who converse with the French Ministers either in France or Holland be Ignorant , that the chiefest part , if not all those Ministers are willing to complye with the Church of England , and it is Evident that most of the Dutch and French Protestants ( so called ; ) in Holland make use of Organs in their Churches ; A second thing was that both the bank of London and the Bankers ▪ Gouldsmiths were all broak , the which I tould this Frenchman was not true altogether , for there are many able Bankers whome I named as Alderman Fowles , Alderman Hornbey , Alderman Duncomb , Alderman Founs , Mr. Thomas Cook , Mr. Rob : Vyner , Mr. Childe , Mr. Endes , Mr. Evans and others well known to the world by their solid dealling : neyther was the Bank ( as he called the Chamber of London ) broak , only it had been under the management of a bad Person whose designe was to bring it into disgrace ; besides there is the East-India Company an unquestionable securitie for those as have money to dispose of , together with another undeniable securitie which is Land. Thirdly he saith , that in England there is no Register , and therefore many frauds in purchases & morgages , which begett teadious suites , and renders both dangerous to trust ; Fourtly that if a man would purchase land he cannot , being an Alien , untill Naturalized . Fiftly that in England there are so many plots and Confusions in Goverment that the Kingdome is hardly quiet twenty yeares together . Sixtly that false wittnesses were so common in England and the crime of perjury so slightly punished , that no man could be safe in life or Estate if he chanced to be in trouble . Lastly he said that the English are so restless and quarrelesome , that they not only foment and cherish Animosities amongst one another , but are Every foot contriving and plotting against their lawfull soveraign and the Goverment . By such surmises and insinuations as these the French and Germans are scared from trusting themselves and fortunes in England and therefore settle in Amsterdam , Hamburg and other Cittyes , where there are Banks and Registers ; This I say is one cause why there are now to be seene at Amsterdam such vast numbers of French and Germans who have much inriched that Citty and raised the rents of the houses 20 percent , and the silkeweavers grow also verie rich keeping so many Almes Children to doe their work and having all their labour without any charge only for the teaching them their trades ; which hath lessened the revenues of the French crown , and will in tyme greately increase the number of the States subjects , and advance ther publick Incomes . To say the truth the inconstancy and wantonnesse of the English nation , especially of late tymes , when no other cause could be given for it , but to much ease and plenty , is not only wondered at but reflected upon by foreigners ; yet I am morally certaine that could the people of England be once againe united in love and affection as they are bound to be in duty and Intrest , and would they be as willing to contribute to their own hapines as heaven hath been kind and liberal in bestowing the meanes of it , with a good and gratious Prince solicitous for preserveing the same to them , could wee be so blest as wee have great reason to Expect wee may under the Auspicious reigne of him whose royall Virtues are dreaded by none either at home or a broad but such as are the disturbers of publick and lawfull Authoritie . Having made this digression , I return to Berlin , It is a city lately enlarged with fair streets and palaces . The Magistrates of the place are Lutherans , which is the publick established Religion in all the Electors dominions ; though he himself and his Children be Calvinists . He is lookt upon to be so true to that persuasion , that he is reckoned the Protector of the Calvinists ; and indeed he sollicited the Emperour very hard for a toleration of the Protestants in Hungary . His chaplains , as most of the Lutheran ministers also , endeavour to imitate the English in their way of preaching : and his highness is so much taken with English divinity , that he entertains divines for translating English books into the German tongue , as the whole duty of man and severall others . He has a large and Srately palace at Berlin and therein a copious library enriched with many manuscripts , medalls , and rarities of Antiquity . He may compare with most Princes for handsome guards , being all of them proper well bodied men , and most part Officers who ride in his guards of horse . As he is know'n in the world to be a valiant and warlick Prince , so he maintains in pay an Army of 36000 men ; besides five or six thousand horsmen , who in time of war are modelled into troopes ; with which body during the late war with Sweden , his highness in Person beat the Swedes out of his Countrey . Hee keeps his forces in strickt Discipline , obliging all the Officers , if Protestants , on Sundays and holy days to march their severall Companies in order to Church , but if a superiour Officer be of a contrary persuasion , then the next in commission supplies his place . This custome is Religiously observed by all his highnesses garrisons ; whilest he himself with his Children , being five sons , two Daughters , and two Daughters in law , goe constantly to the Calvinist Church adjoyning to the Court. Amongst other acts of publick pietie and charitie , this Prince hath established and endowed some Religious houses or Nunneries for Protestant young ladies , where they may live virtuously and spend their time in devotion as long as they please , or otherwise marry , if they think fit , but then they lose the benefit of the Monastery . There is one of these at Herford in Westphalia , where I was and had the honour to wait upon the Lady Abbess the Princess Elisabeth , eldest sister of the Elector Palatine and Prince Rupert , who is since dead . Nothwithstanding the late wars with Sweden and that by the prevalency of France in that hasty treaty of peace concluded at Nimwegen , his Electorall Highness was obliged to give back what he had Justly taken from that crown ; yet his subjects flourish in wealth and trade , his highness having encouraged manufactures of all sorts , by inviting Artizans into his dominions , and estalished a Company of tradeing Merchants to the West-Indies , which will much advance navigation amongst his subjects . And in all humane probabilitie they are like to continue in a happy condition , seing by the alliances his highness hath made with the Protestant Princes of the Empire , and especially the house of Lunenbourg , they are in no danger of being disturbed by their neighbours . I told you before that the Prince of Brandenbourg was married to the Daughter of the duke of Hanover , so that so long as that alliance holds , the families of Brandenbourg and Lunenbourg will be in a condition to cast the ballance of the Empire ; they both together being able to bring into the field 80000 as good men as any are in Europe . When I parted from Berlin I made a turn back to Lunenbourg in my way to Swedland , where I found severall of my Countrey men Officers in the garison , who shew'd mee what was most remarkeable in the city , as the Saltworks ( which bring in considerable summes of money to the duke of Lunenbourg ) the Stathouse , and Churches , in one of which I saw a communion table of pure ducat gold . From thence I went into the Province of of Holstein , and at a small sea port called Termond , of which I spake , before , I embarked for Sweden . He that hath read in the histories of this last age the great exploits of Gustavus Adolphus and his Swedes , perhaps may have a fancy that it must be an excellent Countrey which hath bredsuch warriours ; but if he approach it , he will soon find himself undeceived . Entering into Sweedland at a place called Landsort , wee sailed forwards amongst high rocks having no other prospect from Land but mountains till wee came to Dollers , which is about four Swedish , that is , twenty four English miles from Stockholm , the capitall citie of the Kingdome : upon my comeing a shore I confess I was a litle surprised to see the poverty of the people ; and the litle wooden houses they lived in , not unlike Soldiers huts in a leaguer ; but much more , when I discovered litle else in the Countrey but mountanous rocks and standing lakes of water . The Reader will excuse mee , I hope , if I remarke not all that I may have taken notice of in this Countrey , seing by what I have already written , he may perceive that my designe is rather to observe the manner of the inhabitants living , then to give a full description of every thing that may be seen in the Countrey they live in . However I shall say somewhat of that too , having premised once for all that the ordinary people are wretchedly poor ; yet not so much occasioned by the Publick taxes , as the barrenness of their Countrey , and the oppression of the nobles their Landlords , and immediate superiours , who till the present King put a stop to their violences , tyrannically domineered over the lives and fortunes of the poor peasants . From Dollers I took waggon to Stockholm , changing horses three times by the way , by reason of the badness of the rode , on all hands environed with rocks , that hardly open so much as here and there to leave a shred of plain ground . At two miles distance upon that rode the citie of Stockholme looks great ; becaus of the Kings palace , the houses of Noblemen , and some Churches which are seated upon rocks ; and indeed , the whole citie and suburbs stand upon rocks , unless it be some few houses built upon ground gained from the rivers that run throw the town . Stockholme has its name from a stock or logg of wood which three brothers threw into the water five miles above the city , making a vow that where ever that stock should stop , they would build a castle to dwell in . The stock stopt at the Holme or rock where the palace of the King now stands ; and the brothers to be as good as their word , there built their castle , which invited others to doe the like ; so that in process of time the other rocks or holmes were covered with buildings which at length became the capital citie of the Kingdome . It is now embellished with a great many Stately houses , and much emproved from what it was 400 yeares agoe , as indeed , most cities are ; for the Stathouse then built , is so contemtible and low that in Holland or England , it would not be suffered to stand to disgrace the nation . The Council Chamber where the Burgemaster and Raedt sit , is two rooms cast into one not above nine foot high ; and the two rooms where the sheriffs and the Erve colledge ( which is a Judicature like to the Doctors Commons in England ) sit are not above eight foot and a halfe high . The Kings Palace is a large square of stone building , in some places very high , but an old and irregular fabrick , without a sufficient quantitie of ground about it for gardens and walks . It was anciently surrounded with water ; but some yeares since part of it was filled up to make a way from the castlegate down into the old town . In this Palace there are large rooms ; but the lodgings of the King , Queen and Royall familie are three pair of stairs high , the rooms in the first and second story 's being destin'd for the Senat Chamber and other courts of Judicature . The Kings library is four pair of stairs high , being a room about fourty six foot square , with a closet adjoyning to it not half the dimensions . When I considered the appartments and furniture of this Court , I began to think that the French Author wrote truth , who in his Remarks upon Swedland sayes , that when Queen Christina resigned the Crown to Carolus Gustaphus the father of this present King , she disposed of the best of the furniture of the Court , and gave away a large share of the Crown lands to her favorites ; in so much that the King considering the poor condition she had left the Kingdome in , and seeing the Court so meanely furnished , said that had he know'n before he accepted the Crown , what then he did , he would have taken other measures . There are many other Stately palaces in Stockholme belonging to the nobilitie ; but many of them for want of repairs , and not being inhabited run to ruine ; severall of the nobles who lived in them formerly , having lost the estates that maintained their ancient splendour , as wee shall see hereafter , being retired unto a Countrey life . There are also some other magnificent structures begun , but not finished , as that Stately building intended for a Parliament house for the nobles , and two or three Churches : but what I most wonder at is the vault wherein the late King lies buried , is not as yet covered but with boards , for it is to he observed that the Kings of Sweeden have no tombs and monuments as in England and other Countries ; but are put into copper coffins with inscriptions on them , and placed one by another in vaults adjoyning to the Gray Friers Church . These vaults are about Eight in number , having turets over them with vains of Copper gilt , carved into the ciphers of the severall Kings who give them their names by being the first that are interred in them . The vault of the late King is not yet finished , no more then the fabricks above mentioned , which perhaps may be imputed to the late troubles of Swedland . The number of the inhabitants of Stockholme are also much decreased within these few yeares , partly by reason of the removal of the Court of Admiraltie and the Kings Ships from that citie to Charles-crown , a new haven lately made about 200 English miles from thence , which hath draw'n many families belonging to the fleet and Admiralitie from Stockholme to live there : and partly becaus many of the nobilitie , gentry and those that depended on them , are , as I said before , withdraw'n from Stockholme to a retired life in the Countrey . Nevertheless the ordinary sort of Bourghers who still remain are extreamly poor ; seing the women are fain to worke like horses , drawing carts , and as labourers in England , serving masons and bricklayers with stone , bricks and mortar , and unloading vessells that bring those materials ; some of the poor creatures in the summertime toyling in their smocks without either shoes or stockings . They performe also the part of watermen , and for a small matter will row passengers 40 miles or more if they please . The Court here is very thin and silent , the King living frugally & seldome dining in publick . He eats commonly with the two Queens his mother and consort , who is a virtuous Princess sister to the King of Denmark . She is the mother of five Children , three sons and two daughters , with whom she spends most of her time in retirement . The King is a goodly Prince whom God hath blessed and endowed with accomplishments far beyond what might have been expected from his education , wherein he was extreamly abused , being taught litle more than his mother tongue . He is gracious , Just and valiant , constant at his devotion , and utterly averse from all kind of debauchery , and the unfashionable vanities of other courts in playes , and danceing . His Sports are hunting and exerciseing of his guards , and he rarely appeares publickly or gives audience to strangers , which is imputed to his sense of the neglect of his education . He is a Prince that hath had a very hard beginning in the world , which hath many times proved fortunate to great men ; and indeed , if wee consider all the circumstances of his early misfortunes , how he was slighted and neglected by his nobles who would hardly vouchsase to pay him a visit when he was among them in the Countrey , or to doe him homage for the lands they held of the Crown ; and how by the Pernicious councels of the French and the weakeness or treachery of his governours he was misled into a war that almost cost him his Crown , having lost the best of his territories in Germany and Schonen , and most of his forces both by sea and land : If I say , these things be considered , it will probably appeare that hardly any Prince before him hath in a shorter time or more fully setled the Authority and prerogative of the Crown , then he hath done in Sweden ; for which he stands no wayes obliged to France , as he was for the restauration of what he lost during the war. He is now as absolute as the French King , and makes Edicts which have the force of Laws with out the concurrence of the Estates of the Kingdome . He hath erected two Iudicatures the one called the colledge of Reduction , and the other of inspections ; the first of which hath put his Majesty in possession again of all lands alienated from the Crown , and the other called to account all persons even the heires and executors of those who had cheated the Crown , and made them refound what they or their predeceslors had appropriated to their own use of the Publick revenue . These two necessary constitutions , as they have reduced many great families to a pinch , who formerly lived splendidly upon the Crown lands and revenues , and obliged them to live at home upon their ancient and private Patrimonie in the Countrey , which is one great cause that the Court of Sweden is at present so unfrequented ; so have they enabled his Majestie , without burdening of his subjects , to support the Charges of the government , and to maintain 64000 men in pay . The truth is his other Revenues are but small , seing Queen Christina enjoys the best of his territories , as her allowance , and that what arises from the Copper and Iron mines , one Silver mine , the Pitch and Tar , the customes and excise amounts to no extraordinary summ of money , & the land tax in so barren a Countrey scarcely deserving to be named . The customes and excise , I confess , are very high , and the rigorous manner of exacting them pernicious to trade ; as for instance . If a ship come to Stockholme from London with a hundred severall sorts of goods , and those goods assigned to fifty several men more or less ; if any of those fifty doe not pay the custome of what belongs to him , though it be for a barrel of Beer , the Ship shall not be unladen , nor no man have his goods out , though he hath fully payed the customes for them , till this last man hath payed his . There are severall other silly customes in Swedland that discourages men from tradeing there ; as if any stranger die there , a third of his Estate must goe to the city or town where he traded . No forreigne Merchant in Stockholm can travell into any Countrey where there is a faire without a passport : and at present seing there is no treaty of trade betwixt England and Sweden , though the English bring as considerable a trade to that Kingdome , as any other Countrey whatsoever , yet they are very unkindly used by the Officers of the custome house ; whereas the Dutch , in Lubeck , and other cities have new and greater Priviledges allowed them . Nor would I Counsel an Englishman to goe to law with a Swedish Burgher in Sweden , especially if he be a Whiggish Scot who hath got his freedome in Stockholme , for those are a kind of skrapers , whom I have observed to be more inveterate against the English then the native Sweeds . Of all the Swedish army of 64000 men , the King keeps but 12 Companies of 200 men a peece , with some few horse guards in Stockholme , who are not upon duty as sentinels at the Court gates , as at the Courts of other Princes . The rest are dispersed into quarters and garrisons upon the fronteers which are so far distant in that large compass of land which his territories take up , that it would require a hard and tedious worck to bring them together to a generall muster . They are however kept under very strick discipline , and those that lye neare often viewed by the King. They have od sorts of punishments for the Souldiers and Officers of all degrees : for example if a Serjeant or Corporall be drunk or negligent on duty , they are put into armour , and with three muskets tied under each arm , made to walke two hours before the Court of guard : yet for all the severitie of discipline used against the Soldiers , they commit many abuses in the night time , robbing and sometimes killing men upon the streets in Stockholme , where they have no lights nor guards as in Coppenhaguen . Informer times there have been at one time thirty five Collonels besides Generall Officers in the Swedish Army all the subjects of the King of great Britain , but at present there are few or none , unless it be the sons of some Scottish Officers deceased ; nor did I ever see an Englishman in the Kings guards horse or foot but one , and the son of Sr. Eduard wood , who hath since quitted the service . The King hath exceedingly won the hearts of the common people , not onely by exempting them from the tyrannical Jurisdiction of the nobilitie and gentry , who formerly would by their own private authority punish and put to death the peasants at their pleasure ; which makes the Countries very willing to quarter the Kings Soldiers , but by his exactness in punishing duels , murder and robberies . Perjury is death here also as in Holland : which makes the Magistrates in some ports of this Kings territories enjoyne strange kinds of oaths to deter men from being forsworn . As for instance , in some places , the witness is set , with a staff in his hand , upon some peeble stones and charcoale , where he is to imprecate and pray , that if what he sweareth be not true , his land may become as barren as those stones , and his substance be consumed to ashes like the coals he stands on , which as soon as he steps down are set on fire . This manner of swearing so terrifies the people , that they commonly tremble when they come to take their oath . The Religion of the dominions of the King of Sweden , as of those of the King of Denmark , and of other Princes and states whom wee have named is Lutheran ; who are more rigid to Roman Catholicks and Calvinists than the Protestanrs of Germany . There is no tolleration allowed here to Calvinist ministers ; and they take an effectuall course to keep the Countrey clear of priests and Jesuits , by guelding them whether they be young or old . In commemoration of the great losses and desolation instained in the late war , the Swedes strictly keep four fasting days in the months of April , May , June and July ; on which days all men are prohibited by Authority to kindle fire in their houses , or to eat till after Evening service is don , which in the winter time could not be endured . They delight much in singing in their Churches , which they constantly performe twice every day , morning and evening . In their maryings , Christenings and buryings they are so prodigally extravagant , that if all three happen in one yeare to a man of a competent estate , it is enough to breake him , The clergy of Sweden are neither so rich nor learned as those of Germany , wanting both the opportunities of study , and of conversing with learned men , that those of other Countreys enjoy ; though there be some learned men amongst them . A Bishoprick in Sweden is no great benefice , if compared with some Personages in England ; for the Archbishop and Metropolitan hath not above 400 L. per ann . and some of the rest are not worth above 150 or 200 L. a yeare . The inferiour Clergy are not so regular in their lives and conversation in the Countries distant from Stockholme , as they are neare the court , and the reason is , partly becaus they entertain travellers that pass the Countrey , there being no Ins in most places for the accommodation of persons of any qualitie , and so are obliged to drink with their guests : and partly becaus at buryings and Christenings , where there is commonly high drinking , the Pape or Parson is master of the Ceremonies ; And here give mee leave , to tell a short story of one of them . A Pape comeing to Christen a Child in a Church , and finding a Scottish man to be Godfather , was so transported either with Zeal or his cups , that when he came to exorcise the Child which is a rite used in their Office of Administring that Sacrament , He neglected the forme prescribed by the liturgie , and in an extemporary prayer begg'd that the devill might depart out of the Child , and enter into that Scottish Heretick ; for so they call the Presbyterians of that nation . The prayer of the Pape so incensed the Scot that he vowed revenge , and watched the Pape with a good cudgell next day as he crossed the Church yard , where he beat him and left him all in blood lying on the ground and crying out murder . For this fact the Scot was had before the Justice , who asking him how he durst be so bold as to lay his profane hands upon the man of God , He , who knew very well what use to make of the devill he had got , foaming at the mouth and cunningly acting the demoniack , made answer that the Pape might thank himself for what he had met with ; for since he had conjured the devill into him he spared no body , neither wife nor Children , nor would he spare the Justice himself , and with that sell a mangling and tearing the Magistrat , that he was fain to betake himself to his heeles , crying out O! the devill , save mee ; and so the Scot marched home no man daring to lay hold on him , for fear of being torn to peeces by the devill . But the Justice recollecting himself sent for the Pape , told him that the Scot was a cunning rogue , and bid him goe home , get a plaister for his head and be silent ; least if the matter came to the Bishops ears , he might be censured for goeing against the rubrick of the liturgie . The famous Universitie where their Clergy are bred is Vpsall eight Swedish miles from Stockholme . There are commonly 150 or 200 Students there , but no endowed colledges as in other Counrries . The library is so meane and contemptible that the libraries of many Grammar Schools and of privat men in England or Holland are far better stored with books then it is . Upon viewing of it , and that of the Kings Palace , I called to mind the saying of a French man , upon the like occasion ; That Swedland came behind France and England in the knowledge of men and things at least 800 yeares ; yet some Swedes have been so conceited of the antiquity of their Countrey , as to bragg that Paradice was seated in Sweden , that the Countrey was turned into such heaps of rocks for the rebellion of our first parents , and that Adam and Eve had Cain and Abel in a Countrey three Swedish miles distant from Vpsall . A French man standing by and hearing this Romantick story , as I was told , fitted him with the like , telling him that when the world was made in six days , at the end of the creation all the Rubbish that remained was throw'n together into a corner , which made up Sweden and Norway . And indeed the French seeme to have no great likeing to the Countrey , what ever kindness they may have for the people , for a French Ambassadour , as an author of that Countrey relates , being by order of Queen Christina treated in a Countrey house 4 Swedish miles from Stockholme , and upon the rode goeing and comeing , with all the varieties and pleasures that the Countrey could affoard , on purpose to make him have a good opinion of the same ; made answere to the Queen ( who asked him upon his return what he thought of Sweden ) that were he master of the whole Countrey , he would presently sell it & buy a farme in France or England ; which , under favour , I think was a litle tart and sawcy . Having stayed a considerable time in Swedland , and most part at Stockholme , I set out from thence to goe to Elsenbourg by land , and went a litle out of my way to see a small city called Eubrone famous for a coat of Arms which it got in this manner . A certain Masculine Queen of Denmark who had conquered a great part of Sweden , comeing to this city , asked the Magistrates , what was the Arms of their city ; who having told her that they had none , she plucked up her coats and squatting upon the Snow , bid them take the marke she left there for their Arms : It 's pity she did not give them a suitable motto to it also . What that figure is called in blazonerie I know not , but to this day the city uses it in their Armes , and for marking their commodities . This Queen came purposely into Sweden to pay a visit to a brave woman that opposed a King of Swedland , who in a time of famine would have put to death all the men and women in his Countrey above sixty years of age . The Countrey all the way I travelled in Swedland is much of the same qualitie of the land about Stockholme , untill I came neare the Province of Schonen which is called the store house and Kitchin of Sweden , where the Countrey is far better . It was formerly very dangerous to travell in this Province of Schonen , becaus of the Snaphances who were a kind of bloody robbers , now utterly destroyed by the King ; so that it is safe enough travelling there . Entering into Schonen I saw twenty nine of these rogues upon wheeles , and elsewhere in the Countrey , ten and twenty at severall places . The King used great severitie in destroying of them ; some he caused to be broken upon the wheele , others spceted in at the fundament and out at the shoulders , many had the flesh pinched off of there breasts , and so were fastened to stakes till they died , and others again had their noses and both hands cut off , and being seared with a hot Iron were let goe to acquaint their camerades how they had been served . The King is very severe against Highway-men and duellers . In above a hundred miles travelling , wee found not a house where there was either French wine or brandie , which made mee tell a Swede of our Company who was travelling to Denmark , that I would undertake to shew any man 500 houses wherein a traveller might have wine and other good accommodation in the space of an hundred miles upon any rode from London . There are severall small towns and fertile land in this Countrey of Schonen , lying upon the Sound ; at the narrowest part whereof lies Elsenbourg burnt down by the Danes in the last war : Here I crost over to Elsenore , the passage being but a league broad . The King of Denmark has a cas●le at Elsenore which commands the narrow passage of the Sound , where all Ships that enter into or come out of the Baltick sea must pay toll . Having visited this cas●le and stai'd about a fortnight with the English Consul , and S● . John Paul late resident at the Court of Swedland , I went to the danish Court at Coppenhaguen . Copenhaguen is the capitall city of Zeeland , Jutland or Denmark and place of residence of the King It stands on a flat , encompassed with a pleasant and delightfull Countrey much resembling England . The streets of the city are kept very neat and cleane , with lights in the night time for the convenience and safetie of those who are then abroad ; a custome not as yet introduced into Stockholme where it is dangerous to be abroad when it is dark . The Kings men of war lye here very conveniently , being orderly ranged betwixt Booms after the manner of Amsterdam , and neare the Admiralty house , which is a large pile of building well furnished with stores and Magazines , secured by a citadell , that not onely commands the city , but also the Haven , and entrey into it . The Court of Denmark is splendid , and makes a far greater figure in the world then that of Sweden , tho not many yeares agoe in the time of Carolus Gustaphus the father of the present King of Swedland , it was almost reduced to its last , when the walls of Copenhagen saved that Crown and Kingdome . That siege was famous , caried on with great vigour by the Swede , and as bravely maintained by the Danes : The monuments whereof are to be seen in the canon bullets gilt that still remain in the walls of some houses and in the steeple of the great Church of the town . The Royall palace in Copenhaguen is but small and a very ancient building , but his Majesties house Fredenburg is a stately fabrick of Modern Architecture , and very richly furnished . Denmark is at present a flourishing Kingdome and the King who hath now made it hereditary , surpasses most of his predecessours in power and wealth : He hath much enlarged his dominions , aswell as Authority , and by his personall and Royall virtues , no less then the eminent qualities of a great many able ministers of State , he hath gained the universall love of his subjects , and the esteeme of all forreigne Princes and States . The Court it much frequented every day , but especially on Sundays where about eleven of the clock in the morning , the Nobility , forreigne Ministers , and Officers of the Army assemble and make a glorious appeareance . There one may see many Knights of the order of the Elephant of Malto but I never saw any order of the like nature as that of Sweden , that King rarely appearing in his George and garter , but on days of publick audience I have observed at one time above 150 coaches attending at the Court of Denmark , which are ten times more than ever I saw together at that of Sweden . The King is affable and of easy access to strangers , seen often abroad by his subjects in his gardens and stables , which are very large and well furnished with all sorts of Horses . He is a great lover of English horses and dogs , and delights much in Hunting , as his eldest son the Prince with his brothers doe in cockfighting ; in so much that the English Merchants can not make a more acceptable present to those Princes , then of English game-cocks . The standing forces of Denmark are well disciplined men , and commanded by good Officers both natives and strangers , both French and Scots , as Major General Duncan , and Major General Veld●n both Scottishmen , whom I saw at Copenhaguen . The Soldiers , aswell as courtiers are quartered upon the citizens , a custome which is likewise practised in Sweden , and tho somewhat uneasy , yet not repined at by the people who by the care and good government of the King find trade much advanced . For his Majestie by encouraging strangers of all religions to live in his dominions , and allowing the French and dutch Calvinists , to have publick Churches , hath brought many tradeing families to Coppenhaguen , and by the measure he hath taken for settling trade in prohibiting the importation of forreigne manufactures , and reforming and new modelling the East and West India Companies , hath much encreased commerce and thereby the wealth of his subjects ; so that notwithstanding the new taxes imposed upon all coaches , waggons , Ploughs , and all reall and personall estates , which amount to considerable summs of money , the people live very well and contented . There are commonly about eight thousand men in garison in Coppenhaguen , and his Majesties Regiment of foot guards who are all cloathed in red , with cloaks to keep them warm in the winter time , is a very handsome body of men , and with the horse guards who are bravely mounted , and have their granadeers and Hoboyes , make a very fine shew . His Majestie hath caused severall new fortifications to be built upon the Elb , and other rivers , and hath now in his possession that strong Castle called Hilgueland , at present commanded by a Scottishman . The Queen of Denmark is a most virtuous Princess , sister to the present Landgrave of Hessel-Cassel , and in persuasion a Calvinist , having a chappell allowed her within the Court ; though the publick religion of the King and Kingdome be Lutheran . The Clergie here are learned , many of them having studied at Oxford and Cambridge where they learnt the English language , and amongst the Bishops there is one Doctor King the son of a Scottishman . But seing it is my designe rather to observe the condition of the people , then to be punctuall in describing all the rarities that are remarkeable in the Countries I have been in , I shall conclude what I have to say of Denmark , by acquainting the Reader that the people of that Countrey live far better then the Swedes , and aswell as most of their adjoyning neighbours ; and that there are severall places , both there and in Norway which have the names of English towns , as Arundale , Totness , London &c. When I fist began to write this treatise , I had some thoughts of making observations upon the severall governments of other States and Dominions , where I had travelled some years before I was in the Countries I have been speaking of , as of the rest of Germany , Hungary , Switzerland , Italy and France ; but that was a subject so large , and the usefulness of it to my present designe so inconsiderable , that by doeing so , I found I could neither satisfie the curious , by adding any thing materiall to those many who have already obliged the publick by the remarks of their travells in those places ; or make my discontented Countrey men more averse then they are already from removing into those Countries , where I think few of them will chuse to transport themselves for the sake of liberty and Propertie , tho England were even worse , than they themselves fancy it can be . All that remains to be done then , is to conclude this treatise with an obvious and popular remark , that those Countries where cities are greatest and most frequented by voluntary inhabitants , are alwayes the best to live in ; and by comparing the city of London with all other cities of Europe , and demonstrating by the surveys I have made ( which I think will hardly be contradicted or confuted , ) that of all the capitall cities of Europe it is the biggest and most populous , & so prove consequentially that England , for the generality of people , is the best Countrey in the world especially for its natives to live in . Now this being an observation , ( for what I know ) not hitherto made good by induction and instance , ( as I intend to doe it ) I hope it will please the Reader as much , as if I gave him a particular account of other Countreys and governments , and leave it to his own reflexion to State the comparison . Though London within the walls cannot vie for bigness with many cities of Europe ; yet take the city and suburbs together , according as it hath been surveyed by Mr. Morgan , in breadth from St. Georges Church in Southwarke to Shore ditch , and in length from Limehouse to petty France in Westminster and it is in a vast proportion larger in compass of ground and number of houses then any city whatsoever in Europe . This I shall demonstrate first by compareing it with some cities of Holland , and then with the most considerable cities of the other Countries of Europe , which I shall set down in an alphabeticall order with the number of the houses they severally contain . When London and suburbs was surveyed some years agoe by Mr. Morgan , there were reckoned to be in it 84000 houses besides hospitalls , Almeshouses , and other buildings that payed no chimney money to the King : Now if those were added , and the vast number of new houses that have been built since that survey , upon modest computation London may be reckoned to countain 100000 houses ; I know the French doe vapour and would perswade the world that Paris is much bigger then London . And the Hollanders will scarce believe that London hath more Houses then the 18 Cittyes in Holland that have voyces in the States , for say they Amsterdam Stands upon a 1000 Morgens land , and London Stands but upon 1800 ; To both which I answer , that it is very true that Paris takes up a great spot of ground , but then you must consider , that in Paris there are severall hundreds of Monasteries , Churches , Coledges , and Cloysters , some of them haveing large Gardens , and that in Paris there are 7500 Palaces and Ports for Coaches , which have likewise great Gardens , whereas London is very thick built , and in the Citty the Houses have scarce a Yard big enough to sett a Pump , or House of conveniency in ; but the weekely bills of Mortality will decide this Question and plainely give it to London , and so doth Mons : la Cour , and Sir. William Pette in his last Essayes dedicated lately to our King , makeing it appeare that London is bigger then Paris , Rhoan , and Rochell altogether ; and as for Amflerdam I doe appeale to all knowing men that have seen it , that although it be true that it Stands upon 1000 Morgens Land ; yet there is not above 400 Morgens built , and this I prove thus , that the large Gardens , on the Heeregraft , Kysersgraft , and Princegraft , and the Burgwalls of Amsterdam take up more then a third part of the Citty , then reckon the Bastions , and the space of Ground betweene the Wall , and the Houses , and all the Ground unbuilt from the Vtricks-Port , to the Wesoper-Port , Muyer-Port , and so to the Seaside , and you will find it to be near 300 Morgens land : There are 2 Parishes in the Suburbs of London , viz Stepney , and St. Martins in the feilds , ( the later being so big that the last Parlement divided it into 4 Parishes , ) either of them have more Houses then Rotterdam , or Harlem , and there are severall other great Parishes as St. Margrets - Westminster , St. Giles in the feilds , Toolyes , and St. Mary Overs , the which if they stood apart in the Country would make great Cittyes , wee reckon in London and the Suburbs thereof to be at least 130 Parishes , which containe 100000 Houses , now if you reckon 8 persons to everie house then there are neare 800000 soules in London , but there are some that say there is a million of soules in it ; I shall now set downe the Cittyes Alphabetically and their number of Houses as they were given to me not only from the Surveyours and Citty Carpenters , but from the Bookes of the Herthmoney , and bookes of the Verpoundings , where such Taxes are payd ; and first I shall begin with the 18 Cittyes that have Voyces in the States of Holland . Cittyes Houses . DOrt . 5500 Harlem . 7250 Delph . 2300 Leyden . 13800 Amsterdam . 25460 Rotterdam . 8400 Tergoe . 3540 Gorcom . 2460 Schiedam . 1550 Brill . 1250 Schonehoven . 2200 Alckmaar . 1540 Horn. 3400 Enckhuysen . 5200 Edam . 2000 Monekendam . 1500 Medenblick . 850 Purmerent . 709 Cittyes in Germany and in the 17 Provinces . Cittyes Houses . ANtwerp . 18550 Aix la Chapell . 2250 Arford . 8440 Berlin . 5200 Bonn. 410 Bresack . 1200 Breme . 9200 Breda . 3420 Bolduke . 6240 Bergen op Zome . 2120 Brussels . 19200 Cologne 12000 Cleave . 640 Coblins . 420 Castells . 1520 Dresden . 6420 Disseldorpe . 620 Dunkirk . 2440 Emden . 2400 Francford . 10200 Groningen . 8400 Guant . 18200 Harford , 1420 Hanover . 1850 Heidelberg . 7520 Hamburg . 12500 Lubeck , 6500 Louain . 8420 Lypsick . 3240 Lunenburg , 3100 Cittyes in France . Cittyes Houses . AVinion . 12400 Amiens . 5200 Bullion . 1400 Bomont . 800 Burdeaux . 8420 Calis . 1324 Cane . 2147 Chalon . 1850 Diepe . 1920 Lyons 16840 Montruill . 820 Monpiller . 5240 Marsellis . 9100 Nantes . 4420 Nemes . 3120 Orlians . 10200 Orange . 354 Paris . 72400 Rochell . 4200 Roan . 11200 Tolonze . 13200 Valance . 458 Lewardin . 5860 Mayance . 2420 Malin . 8000 Middelburg . 6200 Madelburg . 1120 Mastricht . 5600 Munster . 1240 Nurenberg . 18240 Osenburg . 2200 Osburg . 8420 Oldenburg . 620 Praag . 18640 Passaw . 560 Ratisbone . 6540 Strasburg . 8560 Spire . 540 Stockholme . 6480 Solsburg . 12460 Vtrick ▪ 8240 Viana . 4520 Vean . 340 Wormes . 1200 Westburg . 2420 Cittyes in Italy . Cittyes Houses . BOlonie . 12400 Florance . 8520 Janua . 17200 Luca. 1650 Legorne . 3560 Milan . 18500 Napells . 17840 Pesa . 2290 Padua . 8550 Rome . 31200 Sena . 1820 Venetia . 24870 Veterba . 620 Valentia . 1520 Cittyes in Savoy . Cittyes Houses . CHambray . 852 Salé . 320 Turin . 8540 Nece . 500 St. John de Latteran . 420 Remes . 340 Moloy . 270 Cittyes in Switserland . Cittyes Houses . BErne . 4270 Ball. 5120 Geneve . 4540 Losana 2100 Solure . 500 Zurick 6200 Morge . 210 Vina . 320 St. Morrice . 300 Cittyes in Denmark . Cittyes Houses . COpenhagen . 8220 Elsenore .   Cittyes in Sweedland . Cittyes Houses . NOrthoanen . 600 Stockholme , 7500 Vpsall . 8200 FINIS .