A journey to Scotland giving a character of that country, the people and their manners. By an English gentleman. With a letter from an officer there, and a poem on the same subject. Ward, Edward, 1667-1731. 1699 Approx. 44 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 10 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. Text Creation Partnership, Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) : 2003-07 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1). A67509 Wing W743 ESTC R220840 99832225 99832225 36697 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal . The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission. Early English books online. (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A67509) Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 36697) Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 2102:10) A journey to Scotland giving a character of that country, the people and their manners. By an English gentleman. With a letter from an officer there, and a poem on the same subject. Ward, Edward, 1667-1731. Cleveland, John, 1613-1658. Rebel Scot. aut 16 p. [s.n.], London : printed in the year M DC XC IX. [1699] "English gentleman" = Edward Ward; attribution from Wing and NUC pre-1956 imprints. Caption title on p. 3: A character of Scotland. Poem on pp. 14-16 has caption title: "The rebel Scot"; copy cataloged has MS. attribution on p. 14: "By Cleaveland" [i.e. John Cleveland, 17th century poet]. Copy has stained title page and considerable print show-through. Reproduction of the original in the British Library. Created by converting TCP files to TEI P5 using tcp2tei.xsl, TEI @ Oxford. 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Scotland -- History -- 17th century -- Poetry -- Early works to 1800. 2003-02 TCP Assigned for keying and markup 2003-04 Apex CoVantage Keyed and coded from ProQuest page images 2003-05 John Latta Sampled and proofread 2003-05 John Latta Text and markup reviewed and edited 2003-06 pfs Batch review (QC) and XML conversion A JOURNEY TO SCOTLAND , GIVING A CHARACTER OF THAT Country , the People and their Manners . By an English Gentleman . WITH A LETTER From an OFFICER there , AND A POEM On the same SUBJECT . LONDON : Printed in the Year M DC XCIX . A CHARACTER OF SCOTLAND . IF all our European Travellers direct their Course to Italy , upon the account of its Antiquity , why should Scotland be neglected , whose wrinkled surface derives its Original from the Chaos ? The first Inhabitants were some Straglers of the faln Angels , who rested themselves on the Confines , till their Captain Lucifer provided places for them in his own Countrey . This is the Conjecture of Learned Criticks , who trace things to their Originals ; and this Opinion was grounded on the Devil's Brats , yet resident amongst them , ( whose fore-sight in the events of good and evil , exceeds the Oracles at Delphos ) the supposed Issue of those Pristine Inhabitants . Names of Countries were not then in fashion , those came not in till Adam's days , and History ( being then in her Infancy ) makes no mention of the changes of that Renowned Countrey , in that Interval betwixt him and Moses , when their Chronicle commences , she was then Baptised ( and most think with the Sign of the Cross ) by the Venerable Name of Scotland , from Scota , the Daughter of Pharaoh King of Egypt . Hence came the Rise and Name of these present Inhabitants , as their Chronicle insorms us , and is not to be doubted of , from divers considerable Circumstances ; the Plagues of Egypt being entailed upon them , that of Lice ( being a Judgment unrepealed ) is an ample Testimony , these loving Animals accompanied them from Egypt , and remain with them to this day , never forsaking them ( but as Rats leave a House ) till they tumble into their Graves . The Plague of Biles and Blains is hereditary to them , as a distinguishing Mark from the rest of the World , which ( like the Devil 's cloven Hoof ) warns all Men to beware of them . The Judgment of Hail and Snow is naturalized and made free Denison here , and continues with them from the Sun 's first ingress into Aries , till he has passed the 30th . degree of Aquary . The Plagues of Darkness was said to be thick Darkness , to be felt , which most undoubtedly these People have a share in , as the word 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ( Darkness ) implies ; the Darkness being appliable to their gross and blockish understandings ( as I had it from a Scholar of their own Nation . ) Upon these Grounds this Original is undeniably allowed them , and the Countrey it self ( in Pyramids ) resembles Egypt , but far exceeds them both in bulk and number ; theirs are but the Products of Mens Labours , but these are Nature's own handy-work ; and if Atlas would ease a Shoulder , here he may be fitted with a Supporter . Italy is compared to a Leg , Scotland to a Louse , whose Legs and engrailed Edges represent the Promontories and Buttings out into the Sea , with more Nooks and Angles than the most conceited of my Lord Mayor's Custards ; nor does the Comparison determine here : A Louse preys upon its own Fosterer and Preserver , and is productive of those Minute-Animals called Nitts ; so Scotland , whose Proboscis joyns too close to England , has suckt away the Nutriment from Northumberland , as the Countrey it self is too true a Testimony , and from its opposite A — , has calved those Nitty Islands , call'd the Orcades , and the Shetland , ( quasi Shite-land ) Islands . The Arms of the Kingdom was anciently a Red-Lyon Rampant , in a Field of Gold , but Ann. Dom. 787. they had the Augmentation of the double Tressure , for assisting the French King ; but His Majesty's Arms in Scotland is a more Hysteron Proteron , the Pride of the People being such , as to place the Scots Arms in the dexter Quarter of the Escutcheon , and make the Unicorn the dexter Supporter , with the Thistle at his Heel , with a suitable Motto , Nemo me impune lacessit , true enough ; whoever deals with them shall be sure to smart for 't : The Thistle was wisely placed there , partly to shew the Fertility of the Countrey , Nature alone producing Plenty of these gay Flowers , and partly as an Emblem of the People , the top whereof having some colour of a Flower , but the bulk and substance of it , is only sharp and poysonous Pricks . Woods they have none , that suits not with the Frugality of the People , who are so far from propagating any , that they destroy those they had upon this politick State Maxim , that Corn will not grow on the Land pestered with its Roots , and their Branches harbour Birds , Animals above their humble Conversation , that exceeds not that of hornless Quadrupedes ; marry , perhaps , some of their Houses lurk under the shelter of a plump of Trees ( the Birds not daring so high a presumption ) like Hugh Peter's Puss in her Majesty , or an Owl in an Ivy-bush . Some Firr-Woods there are in the High-lands , but so inaccessible , that they serve for no other use than Dens for those ravenous Wolves with two Hands , that prey upon their Neighbourhood , and shelter themselves under this Covert ; to whom the sight of a Stranger is as surprizing as that of a Cockatrice . The Vallies for the most part are covered with Beer , or Bigg , and the Hills with Snow ; and as in the Northern Countries the Bears and Foxes change their Coats into the Livery of the Soil , so here the Moor-Fowl ( called Termagants ) turn white , to suit the Sample , though the Inhabitants still stand to their Egyptian Hue. They are freed from the charge and incumbrance of Enclosures , the whole being but one large Waste , surrounded with the Sea : Indeed in many places , you may see half a Root of Land divided with an Earthen Bank , into many differing Apartments , according to the quality of Beasts that are to posses● them . The whole Countrey will make up a Park , Forest , or Chace , as you 'll please to call it ; but if you desire an Account of particular Parks , they are innumerable , every small House having a few Sodds thrown into a little Bank about it , and this for the State of the business ( forsooth ) must be called a Park , though not a Pole of Land in 't . If the Air was not pure and well refined by its agitation , it would be so infected with the Stinks of their Towns , and the Streams of their nasty Inhabitants , that it would be pestilential and destructive ; indeed , it is too thin for their gross Senses , that must be fed with suitable Viands , their Meat not affecting their distempered Pallats , without it have a damnable hogoe , nor Musick their Ears without loud and harsh Discord , and their Nostrils ( like a Jew's ) chiefly delight in the perceptible effluviums of an old Sir R — . Fowl are as scarce here as Birds of Paradise , the Charity of the Inhabitants denying harbour to such Celestial Animals , though Gulls and Cormorants abound , there being a greater sympathy betwixt them . There is one sort of ravenous Fowl amongst them that has one web foot , one foot suited for Land , and another for Water ; but whether or no this Fowl ( being particular to this Countrey ) be not the lively Picture of the Inhabitants , I shall leave to wiser Conjectures . Their Rivers , or rather Arms of the Sea are short , few places in Scotland being above a day's Journey from the Sea , but they are broad , deep and dangerous pestered , with multitudes of Porposses or Sharks ( some of them perhaps amphibious too , that live more on Land than Water ) which destroy their Salmon , the great Commodity of this Countrey , which being too good for the Inhabitants , are barreled up , and converted into Merchandize , &c. The Banks and Borders , of these Rivers ( especially near their Towns ) are adorned with hardy Amazons , though inverted , their Valour being ( chiefly ) from the waste downwards , which parts they readily expose to all the dangers of a naked rencounter . The exercise of their Arms , I should say Feet , is much about Linnen ; Sheets are sufferers , a fit receiver is provided ( not unlike a shallow Pulpit to mind them of their Idol Sermons ) wherein foul Linnen is laid to suffer Persecution , so they turn up all , and tuck them about their wasts , and bounce into a Buck-tub , then go their Stock , and belabour poor Lint till there be not a dry thread on 't . Hence came the Invention of Fulling-Mills , the Women taught the Men , and they put in practice . The Countrey is full of Lakes and Loughs , and they well stockt with Islands , so that a Map thereof , looks like a Pillory-Coat , bespattered all over with Dirt and rotten Eggs , some pieces of the Shells floating here and there , representing the Islands . Their Cattle are only representatives of what are in other Countries , these being so Epitomized , that it is hard to know what Class they relate to . Their Horses are hardy , and not without Gall ( as some say other Horses are ) using both Tooth and Nail to mischief you ; that they may not use more state than their Masters , they go bare-foot , which preserves them from the Gout ; and if Hudibras's Horse had been of this Race , he had not needed a Corn-cutter : Their Furniture or Harness is all of the same matter , all Wood from Head to Tail , Bridle , Saddle , Girths , Stirrups and Crupper , all Wood ; nothing but a Withy will bind a Witch , and if these be called Witches , I shall not oppose it , since by their untoward Tricks , one would guess the Devil to be in them ; their Bridles have not Bits , but a kind of Musrol of two pieces of Wood ; their Crupper is a Stick of a Yard's length , put cross their Docks , both ends thereof being tied with woven Wood to the Saddle . Their Bed and Board too , is all of the same dry Straw , and when they have it up , whip on Harness , and away . Their Neat are hornless , the Owners claiming sole Propriety in those Ornaments , nor should I deny them their Necklace too , for methinks that hoisted Wood would mightily become them . Their Sheep too have the same preferment , they are coupled together near their Master's Palace . Some Animals they have by the name of Hogs , but more like Porcupines , bristled all over , and these are likewise fastned to the Free-hold by the former Artifice ; all their Quadrupedes ( Dogs only excepted , in which sort they much abound ) are honoured with Wooden Bracelets about their Necks , Legs , or Arms , &c. Their Cities are poor and populous , especially Edenborough , their Metropolis , which so well suits with the Inhabitants , that one Character will serve them both , viz. High and Dirty . The Houses mount seven or eight Stories high , with many Families on one Floor , one Room being sufficient for all Occasions , Eating , Drinking , Sleeping , and Shit — The most mannerly step , but to the Door , and Nest upon the Stairs . I have been in an Island where it was difficult to tread without breaking an Egg ; but to move here , and not murder a T — is next to an impossibility ; the whole Pavement is Pilgrim-salve , most excellent to liquor Shooes withal , and soft and easie for the bare-foot Perambulators . The Town is like a double Comb ( an Engine not commonly known amongst them ) one great Street , and each side stockt with narrow Allies , which I mistook for Common shores ; but the more one stirs in a T — the more it will stink . The other Cities and Towns are Copies from this Original , and therefore need no Commentators to explain them ; they have seven Colleges ( or rather Schools ) in four Universities ; the Regents wear what colour'd Cloaths or Gowns they please , and commonly no Gowns at all , so that 't is hard to distinguish a Scholar from an ordinary Man , since their Learning shines not out of their Noses ; the younger Students wear Scarlet Gowns only in Term time ; their Residence is commonly in the Town , only at School hours they convene in the College to consult their Oracle Buchanan ; their chief Studies are for Pulpit preferment , to prate out four or five Glasses with as much ease as drink them ; and this they attain to in their stripling years , commencing Masters of Arts ( that is meant only Masters of this Art ) before one would judge them fit for the College ; for as soon as they can walk as far as the School ( which they will do very young , for like Lapwings they run with Shells on their Heads ) they are sent thither , where they find no Benches to sit on ( only one for the Master ) but have a little Heath and Fadder strewed for them to lie upon , where they litter together , and chew the Cud on their Fathers Horn books , and in good time are preferred to the Bible ; from this petty School , away with them to the Grammar-School , viz. the College , where in three or four years time they attain to ( their ne plus ultra ) the degree of A. M. that is , they can extempore , coin Graces and Prayers for all Occasions ; if you crack a Nut , there is a Grace for that , drink a Dish of Coffee , Ale or Wine , or what else , he presently furnishes you with a Grace for the nonce ; so if you pare your Nails , go to Stool , or any other action of like importance , he can as easily suit you with a Prayer , as draw on a Glove ; and the wonder of all is , that , this Prayer shall be so admirably framed , that it may indifferently quadrate with any occasion , an excellency no where so common as in this Countrey . Thus you see the young Man has commenced and got strength enough to walk to the Kirk and enter the Chair , where we shall find him anon , after we have viewed the out-sides of their Kirks , some of which have been of Antient Foundations , and well and regularly built , but Order and Uniformity is in perfect Antipathy to the humour of this Nation , these goodly Structures being either wholly destroyed ( as at St. Andrews and Elgin , whore by the remaining Ruins you may see what it was in perfection ) or very much defaced ; they make use of no Quires , those are either quite pulled down , or converted into another Kirk , for it is common here to have three , four , or five Kirks under one Roof , which being preserved entire , would have made one good Church , but they could not then have had Preaching enough in it : Out of one Pulpit now they have thirty Sermons per Week , all under one Roof , plenty of spiritual Provision , which gusts much better with a mixture of the Flesh ; as you may guess by their Stools of Repentance in every Kirk , well furnished with Whoremongers and Adulterers of both Sexes . In Venice , the shadows only of Curtezans are exposed to publick view only in Effigic , but here the Whore in Person has a high place provided her in the view of the whole Congregation for the benefit of Strangers , who ( some think ) need not this direction , but may truck for all Commodities , with the first they meet with . They use no Service-Book , not Whore of Babylon's Smock ( as they term a Surplice ) nor decency , nor order in their divine , or rather contumelious Service . Would a King think himself honoured by Subjects , that petitioned him with Bonnet valed , but cockt his Cap the while his request was granting , while precious Mr. Presbyter , grimaces , prays or houls , the Monster Rabble vails ; but as soon as Text is taken , Blew-bonnet takes place again , and this Pulpit-prater is esteemed more than God's Ambassador , having the Holy Spirit at his beck to prompt him every word he speaks , yet not three sentences of sence together , such Blasphemy as I blush to mention . Their Christnings ( as all other things ) are without Form , only Water poured on the Infant , and such words used as Sir John's Mephistophilus supplies him with , and so the Child commences Christian , as good ( or better ) than the best of them . Some think Marriage an unnecessary thing amongst them , it being more generous and usual amongst them to take one another's words ; however , 't is thus performed , the young Couple being attended with Tag-rag and Bob-tail , gang to Kirk , where Mr. Scruple ( like a good Casuist ) controverts the point in hand to them , and schools Mr. Bridegroom in his Lesson , then directs his Discourse to Mrs. Bride , who being the weaker Vessel , ought to have the more pains taken with her ; he chalks out the way she is to walk in , in all its particulars , and joyns their hands , and then let them fall to on God's Name : Home they go with loud ravishing Bag-pipes , and dance about the Green , till they part by Couples to repetition , and so put the Rules in practice , and perhaps Sir Roger follows Mrs. Bride to her Apartment , to satisfie her doubts , where he uses such pungent and pressing Arguments , as she never forgets as long as she lives . When any one dies , the Bell-man goes about ringing their Passing-Bell , and acquaints the People therewith , in form following , Beloved Brouthrin , and Susters , I let yau to wot that thir is an fauthful Broothir lawtli departed awt of this prisant varld , and thi plesuir of Aulmoughti Good ( and then he vails his Bonnet ) his Naum is Volli Voodcock , thrid Son to Jimmoy Voodcock , a Cordinger ; he ligs aut thi sext door vethin thi Nord Gawt , close on thi Nawthwr Rawnd , and I wod yaw gang to hus burying on Thrusdau before twa a Clock , &c. The time appointed for his Burying being come , the Bell-man calls the Company together , and he is carried to the Burying-place , and thrown into the Grave ( as Dog-Lyon was ) and there 's an end of Wolli . Few People are here buried in their Kirks ( except of their Nobility ) but in the Kirk Garths , or in a burying place on purpose , called the Hoof , at the further end of the Town ( like our Quakers ) enclosed within a Wall , so that it serves not only as a Burying place , but an Exchange to meet in ; perhaps in one part of it their Courts of Judicature are kept ; in another are Butts to shoot at for Recreation . All agree that a Woman's Tongue is the last Member she moves , but the Latin Proverb , mulieri ne credas , &c. seems to prove it after death : I am sure the pride of this People never leaves them , but follows them to their long homes ( I was about to have said , to the Devil ) for the meanest Man must have a Grave stone full fraught with his own Praises ( though he was the vilest Miscreant upon Earth ) and miserable memento mori's , both in English and Latin , nay , Greek too , if they can find a Greek word for Cordinger , the Calling he was of , and all this in such miserable Scotch Orthography , that 't is hard to distinguish one Language from another . The Castles of defence in this Countrey are almost impregnable , only to be taken by Treachery or long Siege , their Water failing them soonest ; they are built upon high , and almost inaccessible Rocks , only one forc'd passage up to them , so that a few Men may easily defend them . Indeed , all the Gentlemens Houses are strong Castles , they being so Treacherous one to another , that they are forced to defend themselves in strong holds ; they are commonly built upon some single Rock in the Sea , or some high Precipice near the mid-land , with many Towers and strong Iron Grates before their Windows ( the lower part whereof , is only a wooden Shutter , and the upper part Glass ) so that they look more like Prisons than Houses of Reception ; some few Houses there are of late erection , that are built in a better form , with good Walks and Gardens about them , but their Fruit rarely comes to any perfection . The Houses of the Commonalty are very mean , Mud-wall and Thatch the best ; but the poorer sort live in such miserable Hutts as never Eye beheld , it is no difficulty to piss over them ; Men , Women and Children pigg altogether in a poor Mouse hole of Mud , Heath , and such like matter ; in some parts where Turf is pentiful , they build up little Cabbins thereof , with arched Roots of Turf , without a stick of Timber in it ; when the House is dry enough to burn , it serves them for Fuel , and they remove to another . The Habit of the People is very different , according to the Qualities , or the Places they live in , as Low-land or High-land Men. The Low-land Gentry go well enough habited , but the poorer sort go ( almost ) naked , only an old Cloak , or a part of their Bed-cloaths thrown over them . The Highlanders wear slashed Doublets , commonly without Breeches , only a Plad tied about their Wasts , &c. thrown over one Shoulder , with short Stockings to the Gartering place , their Knees , and part of their Thighs being naked ; others have Breeches and Stockings all of a piece , of Plad-Ware , close to their Thighs ; in one side of their Girdle sticks a Durk or Skean , about a Foot or half a Yard long , very sharp , and the back of it filed into divers notches , whereie they put Poyson ; on the other side a brace ( at least ) of brass Pistols ; nor is this Honour sufficient , if they can purchase more , they must have a long swinging Sword. The Women are commonly two handed Tools , strong-posted Timber , they dislike English-Men , because they have no Legs , or ( like themselves ) Posts to walk on ; the meaner go bare-foot and bare-head , with two black Elflocks on either side their Faces ; some of them have scarce any Cloaths at all , save part of their Bed cloaths pinn'd about their Shoulders , and their Children have nothing else on them but a little Blanket ; those Women that can purchase Plads , need not bestow much upon other Cloaths , these Coversluts being sufficient . Those of the best sort that are very well habited in their modish Silks , yet must wear a Plad over all for the Credit of their Countrey . The People are Proud , Arrogant , Vain-glorious Boasters , Bloody , Barbarous , and Inhumane Butchers . Couzenage and Theft is in perfection amongst them , and they are perfect English haters , they shew their Pride in exalting themselves and depressing their Neighbours . When the Palace at Edenburgh is finished , they expect his Majesty will leave his rotten House at White Hall , and live splendidly amongst his nown Countrey-men the Scots ; for they say that Englishmen are very much beholden to them that we have their King amongst us . The Nobility and Gentry Lord it over their poor Tenants , and use them worse than Gally Slaves ; they are all bound to serve them , Men , Women , and Children ; the first Fruits is always the Landlord's due , he is the Man that must first board all the young married Women within his Lairdship , and their Sons are all his Slaves , so that any mean Laird will have six , or ten , or more followers , besides those of his own Name , that are inferiour to him , must all attend him ( as he himself must do his Superiour , of the same Name , and all of them attend the Chief ) if he receives a Stranger , all this Train must be at his beck , armed as aforesaid ; if you drink with them in a Tavern , you must have all this Rubbish with you ; and if you offend the Laird , his Durk shall soon be sheathed in your Belly , and after his , every one of his Followers , or they shall suffer themselves that refuse it , that so they may be all alike guilty of the Murder : Every Laird ( of note ) hath a Gibbet near his House , and has Power to condemn and hang any of his Vassals ; so they dare not oppose him in any thing , but must submit to his Commands , let them be never so unjust and tyrannical . There are too many Testimonies of their Cruelty amongst themselves in their own Chronicles , Forty of their Kings have been barbaroufly Murdered by them , and half as many more have either made away themselves for fear of their torturing of them , or have died miserably in streight Imprisonment . What strange Butcheries have been committed in their Feuds , some of which are in agitation at this day , viz. Argile with the Macclans , and Mac Donnels about Mula Islands , which has cost already much Blood , and is likely will cost much more before it be decided ; their Spirits are so mean , that they rarely Rob , but take away Life first , lying in Ambuscade , they send a brace of Bullets on Embassy through the Traveller's Body ; and to make sure work , they sheath their Durks in his liveless Trunk ; perhaps , to take off their fire Edges , as new Knives are stuck in a Bag pudding . If an Highlander be injured , those of his own Name must defend him , and will certainly have satisfaction from the Offenders : A late instance whereof was at Inverness , ( a considerable Town ) where one of the Macdonnels was slain , but shortly , the chief of the Name came down against the Town with 1500 Men of his own Name , and threatned to fire the Town , but the Inhabitants compounded with them for 2000 l. Their Cruelty descends to their Beasts , it being a Custom in some places to feast upon a living Cow they tie in the middle of them , near a great Fire , and then cut Collops of this poor living Beast , and broil them on the Fire , till they have mangled her all to pieces ; nay , sometimes they will only cut off as much as will satisfie their present Appetites , and let her go till their greedy Stomachs calls for a new supply ; such horrid Cruelty as can scarce be parallel'd in the whole World ! Their Theft is so well known , that it needs no proving , they are forc'd to keep Watch over all they have , to secure it ; their Cattel are watch'd day and night , or otherwise they would be over-grown by morning . In the High-lands they do it publickly before the face of the Sun , if one Man has two Cows , and another wants , he shall soon supply himself from his Neighbour , who can find no Remedy for it . The Gentry keep an Armory in their own Houses , furnish'd with several sorts of Fire Arms , Pikes and Halberts , with which they Arm their Followers , to secure themselves from the Rapine of their Neighbourhood . The Lowland Language may be well enough understood by an Englishman , but the Highlanders have a peculiar Lingua to themselves , which they call Erst , unknown to most of the Lowland Men , except only in those places that border on them , where they can speak both : Yet these People are so currish , that if a Stranger enquire the way in English , they will certainly answer in Erst , and find no other Language than what is forc'd from them with a Cudgel . If Cornelius Agrippa had travelled Scotland , sure Cookery had not been found in his Vanity of Sciences , such is their singular Skill in this Art , that they may defie the World to rival them ; King James's Treat for the Devil , that is , a Poll of Ling , a Joll of Sturgeon , and a Pigg , with a Pipe of Tobacco for digestion , had been very compleat , if the ordering thereof had been assigned to a Cuke of this Countrey , who can sute every Dish with its proper Hogo , and bring Corruption to your Table , only to mind Men of Mortality : Their Meat is Carrion when 't is kill'd , but after it hath been a Fortnight perfuming with the aromatick Air , strained through the calmy Trunks of Flesh-flies , then it passes the trial of Fire under the Care of one of those exquisite Artists , and is dish'd up in a Sea of sweet Scotch Butter , and so covered and served hot up to the Table : O how happy is he that is placed next to it , with a privilege to uncover it , and receive the hot steams of this dainty Dish , almost sufficient to cure all Distempers . It will be needless to instance in particulars so plain and evident to all that have travell'd through the Countrey , that they may certainly bear away the Bell from all their Neighbouring Nations , or indeed from the whole World. Their Nobility and Gentry have Tables plentifully enough furnish'd , but few or none of them have their Meat better order'd : To put one's Head into their Kitchen doors , is little less than destructive ; to enter Hell alive , where the black Fairies are busied in mangling dead Carcases , and the Fire and Brimstone , or rather stew and stink , is ready to suffocate you , and yet ( which is strange ) these things are agreeable to the humours of the People . The poorer sort live on Haddock , Whiting , and sour Milk , which is cryed up and down the Streets ( Whea buyes sawer Milk ) and upon the stinking Fragments that are left at their Lairds Table . Prodigious Stomachs , that like the Gulon , can feed on their own Excrements , and strain their Meat through their Stomachs , to have the pleasure of devouring it again ! Their Drink is Ale made of Beer-Malt , and Tunned up in a small Vessel , called a Cogue ; after it has stood a few hours , they drink it out of the Cogue , Yest and all ; the better sort , Brew it in larger quantities , and drink it in wooden Queighs , but it is sorry stuff , yet excellent for preparing Birdlime ; but Wine is the great Drink with the Gentry , which they pour in like Fishes , as if it were their natural Element ; the Glasses they drink out of , are considerably large , and they always fill them to the brim , and away with it ; some of them have arrived at the perfection to tope Brandy at the same rate : sure these are a Bowl above Bacchus , and of right , ought to have a nobler Throne than a Hogshead . Musick they have , but not the Harmony of the Spheres , but loud terrene Noises , like the bellowing of Beasts ; the loud Bag pipe is their chief Delight , stringed Instruments are too soft to penetrate the Organs of their Ears that are only pleased with sounds of substance . The High-ways in Scotland are tolerably good , which is the greatest Comfort a Traveller meets with amongst them ; they have not Inns , but Change Houses ( as they call them ) poor small Cottages , where you must be content to take what you find , perhaps Eggs with Chucks in them , and some Lang Cale ; at the better sort of them , a Dish of chopp'd Chickens , which they esteem a dainty Dish , and will take it unkindly if yon do not eat very heartily of it , though for the most part you may make a Meal with the sight of the Fare , and be satisfied with the steam only , like the Inhabitants of the World in the Moon ; your Horses must be sent to a Stablers ( for the Change Houses have no Lodging for them ) where they may feed voluptuously on Straw only , for Grass is not to be had , and Hay is so much a stranger to them , that they are scarce familiar with the Name of it . The Scotch Gentry commonly travel from one Friend's House to another , so seldom make use of a Change House ; their way is to hire a Horse and a Man for two Pcnce a Mile ; they ride on the Horse thirty or forty Miles a day , and the Man who is his Guide , foots it beside him , and carries his Luggage to boot . The best sort keep only a Horse or two for themselves and their best Friend , all the rest of the Train foot it beside them . The Commonalty are so used to worship and adore their Lairds , that when they see a Stranger in any tolerable Equipage , they honour him with the Title of Laird at least , An 't please you my Laird such a one , or an 't please you my Laird Dr. at every ba●e word forsooth . The Nobility shew themselves very great before Strangers , they are conducted into the House by a many of his Servants , where the Lord with his Troop of Shadows receives them with the grand Paw , then enter into some Discourse of their Countrey , till you are presented with a great Queigh of Syrup of Beer , after that a Glass of White-Wine , then a Rummer of Claret , and sometimes after that a Glass of Sherry Sack , and then begin the round with Ale again , and ply you briskly , for it 's their way of shewing you'r Welcome by making you Drunk ; if you have longer time to stay , you stick close to Claret , till Bacchus wins the Field , and leaves the conquer'd Victims groveling on the place where they received their overthrow ; at your departure you must drink a Dongha Doras , in English a Stirrup Cup , and have the satisfaction to have my Lord's Bag-pipe ( with his loud Pipes , with his Lordship's Coat Armor on a Flag ) strut about you , and enchant you with a Loth to depart . Their Money is commonly Dollars , or Mark pieces , coined at Edenbrough , but their way of Reckoning is surprising to a Stranger ; to receive a Bill of a Hundred Pound in one of their Change-Houses , when one would not suppose they had any of the value of a Hundred Pence ; they call a Peny a Shilling , and every Twenty Shillings , viz. Twenty Pence , a Pound ; so the proportion of their Pound to ours , is Twelve to One. Strangers are sure to be grosly imposed upon in all their Change Houses , and there is no redress for it : If an Englishman should complain to their Magistrates , they would all take a part against him , and make sure to squeeze him . The Conclusion of the Abridgment of the Scotch Chronicle , is the rare and wonderful things of that Countrey ; as in Orkney , their Ews bring forth two Lambs apiece ; that in the Northermost of Shetland Islands , about the Summer Solstice , there is no Night ; that in the Park of Cumbernaule , are white Kine and Oxen ; that at Slanes there is a putrifying Water in a Cove ; that at Aberdeen is a Vitriolin Well , that they say is excellent to dissolve the Stone , and expel Sand from the Reins and Bladder , and good for the Colick , being drunk in July , &c. These prodigious Wonders in one Countrey are admirable , but these are not half of them . Loughness never freezes ; in Lough Lommond are Fishes without Fins : And 2dly . The Waters thereof rage in great Waves without Wind in calm Weather : And 3dly . and lastly , Therein is a floating Island : In Kyle is a deaf Rock twelve Foot every way , yet a Gun discharged on one side of it , shall not be heard to the other . In another place is a Rocking-stone of a reasonable bigness , that if a Man push it with his finger , it will move very lightly , but if he address his whole Force , it availeth nothing ; with many more marvels of like nature , which I would rather believe than go thither to disprove . To conclude the whole bulk and selvege of this Countrey , is all Wonder too great for me to unriddle , there I shall leave it as I found it , with its agreeable Inhabitants in A Land where one may pray with curst intent : Oh! May they never suffer Banishment . FINIS . A Description of Scotland , in a LETTER from an Officer in the Army , to his Friend in London . SIR , YOU may be sure it goes hard with a Soldier , when he is brought to his Prayers , and that is my Case and all with me , and would defire my Friends to join with me in them , that God would put it into His Majesty's Heart to call us out of this Kingdom , and to send us to any other part of the World ; for we can't lose by the Change , for here is neither Meat for Man nor Horse ; here is great store of Fowl , indeed , as foul Houses , foul Sheets , foul Linnen , foul Dishes , Pots , Trenchers , Napkins , &c. They have good store of Fish too , and good for those that can eat it raw ; but if it comes once into their hands , it is worse than if it was three days old . For their Butter and Cheese , I will not meddle withal at this time , nor no Man else at any time that loves his Life . The Country , I confess , is good for those that possess it , and too bad for others to be at the Charge to Conquer it . The Air might be wholsome but for the stinking People that inhabit it ; the Ground might be fruitful , had they Wit to manure it . They have good store of Deer , but they are so far from the Place where I have been , that I had rather believe than go to disprove it ; all the Deer I met withal , was dear Lodgings , dear Horse-Meat , dear Tobacco and English Beer . Fruit , for their Grandsire Adam's sake they never planted any , and for other Trees , had Christ been betrayed in this Countrey ( as doubtless he should , had he come as a Stranger ) Judas had sooner found the Grace of Repentance , than a Tree to hang himself on . They have many Hills , wherein they say is much Treasure , but they shew you none of it , Nature hath only discovered to them some Mines of Coal , to shew to what end he created them . There is little Grass to be seen but in their Pottage ; and Hay is Heathen Greek to them , neither Man nor Beast knows what it means . As to their Religion , it is such a Hodge-podge , there is no describing it . Their Sabbath Exercise is a Preaching in the Forenoon , and a Persecuting in the Afternoon ; they go to Church in the Forenoon to hear the Law , and to the Craggs and Mountains in the Afternoon to Louze themselves . They hold their Noses , if you talk of Bear-baiting , and stop their Ears , if you speak of a Play. Fornication they hold but a pastime , wherein Man's Ability is approved , and a Woman's Fertility discovered ; at Adultery they shake their Heads . Theft they rail at , and think it impossible to lose the way to Heaven , if they can but leave Rome behind them . The Ointment they use , is Brimstone and Butter for the Scabs . To conclude ; The Men of old did not more wonder that the great Messias should be born in so poor a Town as Bethlehem , than the World may wonder at , that England should have a Race of Kings from such a cursed Countrey as Scotland . Yours . THE Rebel SCOT . HOW ! Providence ! and yet a Scottish Crew ! Then Madam Nature wears black Patches too , What shall our Nation be in bondage thus Unto a Land that truckles under us ? Ring the Bells backward ; I am all on fire , Not all the Buckets in a Country-Quire Shall quench my rage . A Poet should be fear'd When angry , like a Comet 's flaming Beard . And where 's the Stoick can his wrath appease To see his Country sick of Pym's disease ; By Scotch Invasion to be made a Prey To such Pig-Widgin Myrmidons as they ? But that there 's Charm in Verse , I would not quote The Name of Scot without an Antidote ; Unless my head were red , that I might brew Invention there that might be Poyson too . Were I a drowzy Judge , whose dismal Note Disgorgeth Halters , as a Jugler's Throat Doth Ribbands ; Could I in Sir Empericks tone Speak Pills in phrase and quack destruction , Or roar like Marshal that Geneva Bull , Hell and Damnation a Pulpit full : Yet to express a Scot , to play that prize , Not all those Mouth Granados can suffice . Before a Scot can properly be curst , I must like Hocus , swallow Daggers first . Come , keen Iambicks , with your Badgers feet , And Badger-like bite till your Teeth do meet : Help ye tart Satyrists to imp my rage With all the Scorpions that should whip this Age. Scots are like Witches ; do but whet your Pen ; Scratch till the blood come , they 'll not hurt you then . Now as the Martyrs were enforc'd to take The shapes of Beasts , like Hypocrites at Stake I 'll bait my Scot so , yet not cheat your eyes ; A Scot , within a Beast , is no Disguise . No more let Ireland brag , her harmless Nation Fosters no Venom since that Scot's Plantation : Nor can our feign'd Antiquity obtain ; Since they came in , England hath Wolves again . The Scot that kept the Tower might have shown Within the Grate of his own Breast alone , The Leopard and the Panther , and ingross'd What all those wild Collegiats had cost . The honest High-shoes in their termly Fees , First to the Salvage Lawyer , next to these . Nature her self doth Scotchmen Beasts confess , Making their Country such a Wilderness ; A Land that brings in question and suspence God's Omnipresence , but that Charles came thence ; But that Montross and Crawford's Royal Band Atton'd their Sin , and Christned half their Land. Nor is it all the Nation hath these Spots , There is a Church as well as Kirk of Scots . As in a Picture where the squinting paint Shews Fiend on this side , and on that side Saint . He that saw Hell in 's melancholy Dream , And in the Twy-light of his Fancy's Theme Scar'd from his Sins , repented in a fright , Had he view'd Scotland had turn'd Proselite . A Land where one may pray with curst intent , Oh may they never suffer Banishment ! Had Cain been Scot , God would have chang'd his Doom , Not forc'd him wander but confin'd him home ; Like Jews they spread , and as Infection fly , As if the Devil had Ubiquity . Hence 't is they live at Rovers and defie This , or that place , Rags of Geography . They 'r Citizens o' th' World , they 'r all in all , Scotland's a Nation Epidemical . And yet they ramble not to learn the Mode , How to be drest , or how to lisp abroad ; To return knowing in the Spanish Shrug , Or which of the Dutch States a double Jug Resembles most in Belly , or in Beard , ( The Card by which the Mariners are steer'd ) No , the Scots Errant fight , and fight to eat , Their Ostrich Stomachs make their Swords their Meat . Nature with Scots as Tooth drawers hath dealt , Who use to string their Teeth upon their Belt. Yet wonder not at this their happy choice , The Serpent's fatal still to Paradise . Sure England hath the Hemorrhoids , and these On the North postern of the Patient seize , Like Leeches ; thus they Physically thirst After our Blood , but in the Cure shall burst . Let them not think to make us run o' th' score To purchase Villenage , as once before When an Act past to stroak them on the Head : Call them good Subjects , buy them Ginger-bread . Not Gold , nor Acts of Grace , 't is Steel must tame The stubborn Scot , a Prince that would reclaim Rebels by yielding , doth like him , or worse , Who saddled his own back to shame his Horse . Was it for this you left your leaner Soil , Thus to lard Israel with Egypt's Spoil . They are the Gospel's Life-guard ; but for them ( The Garrison of New Jerusalem ) What would the Brethren do ? The Cause ! The Cause ! Sack-Possets , and the Fundamental Laws ? Lord ! what a godly thing is want of Shirts ! How a Scotch-Stomach , and no Meat converts ! They wanted Food and Rayment ; so they took Religion for their Seamstress , and their Cook. Unmask them well , their Honours and Estate , As well as Conscience , are sophisticate . Shrive but their Title and their Moneys poize , A Laird and twenty pence pronounc'd with noise , When constru'd but for a plain Yeoman go , And a good sober two pence , and well so . Hence then you proud Impostors , get you gone , You Picts in Gentry and Devotion . You Scandal to the Stock of Verse , a Race Able to bring the Gibbet in disgrace . Hyperbolus by suffering did traduce The Ostracism , and sham'd it out of use . The Indian that ' Heaven did forswear , Because he heard some Spaniards were there ; Had he but known what Scots in Hell had been , He would Erasmus-like have hung between . My Muse hath done . A Voyder for the nonce , I wrong the Devil should I pick their Bones ; That Dish is his ; for when the Scots decease Hell like their Nation , feeds on Bernacles . A Scot when from the Gallow tree got loose Drops into Styx , and turns a Soland Goose. FINIS .