A journey to London in the year 1698 after the ingenuous method of that made by Dr. Martin Lyster to Paris in the same year, &c. / written originally in French by Monsieur Sorbiere and newly translated into English. King, William, 1663-1712. 1698 Approx. 48 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 24 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. Text Creation Partnership, Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) : 2004-11 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1). A60917 Wing S4698 ESTC R10470 13780191 ocm 13780191 101781 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal . The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission. Early English books online. (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A60917) Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 101781) Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 850:35) A journey to London in the year 1698 after the ingenuous method of that made by Dr. Martin Lyster to Paris in the same year, &c. / written originally in French by Monsieur Sorbiere and newly translated into English. King, William, 1663-1712. Sorbière, Samuel, 1615-1670. Relation d'un voyage en Angleterre. [8], 34, [2] p. Printed and sold by A. Baldwin ..., London : 1698. Fictiously attributed to Sorbière but written by William King. Cf. DNB. Satire on Lister's work: Journey to Paris in the year 1698. Reproduction of original in Huntington Library. Created by converting TCP files to TEI P5 using tcp2tei.xsl, TEI @ Oxford. Re-processed by University of Nebraska-Lincoln and Northwestern, with changes to facilitate morpho-syntactic tagging. 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Users should bear in mind that in all likelihood such instances will never have been looked at by a TCP editor. The texts were encoded and linked to page images in accordance with level 4 of the TEI in Libraries guidelines. Copies of the texts have been issued variously as SGML (TCP schema; ASCII text with mnemonic sdata character entities); displayable XML (TCP schema; characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or text strings within braces); or lossless XML (TEI P5, characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or TEI g elements). Keying and markup guidelines are available at the Text Creation Partnership web site . eng Lister, Martin, 1638?-1712. -- Journey to Paris in the year 1698. London (England) -- Humor. London (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800. 2004-08 TCP Assigned for keying and markup 2004-08 Apex CoVantage Keyed and coded from ProQuest page images 2004-09 Andrew Kuster Sampled and proofread 2004-09 Andrew Kuster Text and markup reviewed and edited 2004-10 pfs Batch review (QC) and XML conversion A JOURNEY TO LONDON , In the Year , 1698. After the Ingenuous Method of that made by Dr. Martin Lyster to Paris , in the same Year , &c. Wittten Originally in French , By Monsieur Sorbiere , and Newly Translated into English. LONDON , Printed , and sold by A. Baldwin , in Warwick-Lane , 1698. A JOURNEY TO LONDON . Monsieur Sorbeir TO THE READER . I Am resolved to make no Apology for This short Account of the Magnificent , and Noble City of London , where you will meet with nothing offensive , and I think I have observed every thing that is Remarkable in it ; It would have been unpardonable in me , to have omitted any matters which the Curious might be desirous to know , having an Inimitable Pattern from one of that Country lately , who for the clearness of his Expression , the Elegancy of his Descriptions , as well Ingenuous Choice of his Subjects , deserves a Particular Salutation from all the Admirers of the Belles Lettres in the Universe . I might here take an Opportunity to beg Pardon of the English , for my misrepresentations Thirty Years ago , but 't is to be hoped this Book will make my Peace with that Nation . The following pages will show you the Considerable heads I design'd to Treat off , and now I have paid my Devoirs at the Entrance , I will not Importune you any longer . CONTENTS . ASses Page 21 Auction 23 Beggars 9 Brick and Stone Houses 3 Bureaus 4 Boy in a little Coach 5 Boats 8 Bartholomew Fair 27 Bread 29 Curiosity 1 Sir Charles Cotterel and John Sharp Compar'd 2 Cellar Windows 4 Coaches 5 Commendation of Linnen Shirts 13 Calf with a Top-knot 18 Coins 20 Chivey Chase 20 Chocolate 25 Cabbage 30 Chine of Beef 33 Dust 11 Ducks 28 English no Lovers of stinking Meat 33 Flannel Shirts 13 Grey Pease Hot ! 29 Inns , the white Horse , &c. 8 Kennels 5 Knightsbridge and Istington 5 Kitling in an Air Pump p. 16 Lettice 31 Menage 3 Monks ( none ) 9 Miller's Thumb 16 Mufflers 22 Mushroom 31 Naked Statues Commended 12 Old Women Witches 14 Owl , 18 Port●ochers and Remises 3 Post Chaises Roullions not in England 6 Publick Cries 10 Play Things 21 Pox ! 24 Pick Pockets 27 Recreations and Walk , 7 A Rummer of two Quarts 15 Rosemary , &c. 26 Squares , St. James's , Bloomsbury , &c. 5 Signs in the street , Prodigious Large ! 7 Streets Lighted , 10 — Clean 11 Statues 12 Sticklebacks 16 Small coal Kettles to Light a Pipe 27 Salt 29 Soups 31 Things wanting in England 5 Tennis Balls 22 Turnips 30 A JOURNEY TO LONDON . In the Year , 1698. After the Ingenuous Method of that made by Dr. Martin Lyster to Paris , in the same Year , &c. THis Tract was written chiefly to satisfy my own Curiosity , and being in a place where I had little to do , I though fit to write a Book for such People as had idle time enough upon their hands to read it . The English Nation value themselves upon a plain Honesty , join'd with Hospitality ; these make them Courteous to Strangers , but they are not very easy with their Curiosity . For they do not build and dress mostly for Figure , as the French , who are certainly the most Polite Nation in the World , and can praise and Court with a better grace than the rest of Mankind . I did not intend to put on the Spectacles of the Present State of England , Written by Dr. Chamberlain , nor any Survey of the same for trusting to my Eyes , I had a mind to see without ' em . But to content you Reader , I promise not to trouble you with Ceremonies , either of State , or Church , or Politicks ; for though I met with an English Gentleman who proffer'd to shew me the Princes of the Blood , the Prime Ministers of State , the Lord Mayor , and other Officers belonging to a City of so immense a greatness as that of London , yet I refus'd the Civility , and told him , that I took more pleasure to see honest John Sharp of Hackney , in his White Frock , crying Turneps ho ! four bunches a penny , than Sir Charles Cottrel , making room for an Embassadour , and I found my self better dispos'd , and more apt to learn the physiognomy of a hundred Weeds , than of five or six Princes . I arriv'd at London , after a tedious Journey , in bad weather ; for I fell sick upon the road , and lay dangerously ill of the Tooth-ach . I believe I did not see the tithe of what deserves to be seen ; because for many things I wanted a relish , particularly for Painting and Building , though I confess the grandure of a City chiefly consists in Buildings ; and I verily believe London to be one of the most Beautiful and Magnificent in Europe . It is also most certain , that the common people of London , live dispers'd in single Houses , whereas in Paris , there are from Four to Five , and to Ten menages or distinct Families in many Houses , from whence I infer that as to the Commonalty Paris may be more populous than London , although perhaps their dwelling mayn't be so wholsome and cleanly . I found the Houses some of hew'n stone entire , some of Brick with free Stone ; as the Crown Tavern upon Ludgate-hill , and the corner House of Birchin-Lane , and several others . Divers of the Citizens Houses , have Port-cochezs to drive in a Coach , or a Cart either , and Consequently have Courts within , and mostly Remises to set them up , such persons as have no Portchochez , and consequently no Courts or Remises , set up their Coaches at other places , and let their Horses stand at Livery . The Cellar Windows of most Houses are grated with strong barrs of Iron , to keep thieves out , and Newgate is grated up to the Top to keep them in . Which must be of vast expence ! As the Houses are magnificent without , so they furnish them within accordingly . But I could not find , that they had any Bureaus of Ivory . Upon viewing the Braziers and Turners Shops , I found it true , what my Country Man Monsieur Justell formerly told me , that according to his Catalogue there were near threescore utensils , and conveniencies of Life more in England than in France . But then the English , since the breach of their commerce with France , lie under great necessities of several commodities fiting for the ease and support of Humane Life , as Counterfeit Pearl Necklaces , Fans , Tooth Picks , and Tooth Pick Cases , and especially Prunes , the Calamity of which has been so great for Ten Years last past , that they have not had enough to lay round their Plum-porridge at Christmas . I must to give a faithful account descend even to the Kennels ; the Gutters are deep , and lain with rough edges , which make the Coaches not to glide easily over 'em , but occasion an imployment for an industrious sort of people call'd Kennel-Rakers . The Squares in London are many and very beautiful , as St. James , Sohoe , Bloombury , Red-Lyon . Devonshire , none of the largest , and Hogsdon not yet finish'd . But that which makes the dwelling in this City very diverting , is the facility of going out into the fields , as to Knightsbridge , where is an excellent Spring-Garden , to Marribone , where is a very good Bowling-Green , Islington as famous for Cakes , as Stepeny is for Bunns . But to descend to a more particular review of this great City , I think it not amiss to speak first of the Streets . There are Coaches in the streets which are very numerous , but the Fiacers are not hung with double springs , at the four Corners , which springs would insensibly Break all Jolts . So that I fou●d the case alter'd in England ; and I to had rather ride in a Fiacre at Paris , than in the easiest Chariot of a Lord Embassador ; to my great astonishment at London , found that in a Hackney Coach , there was not a jolt but what affected a Man , from whence I drew these Surprising Conclusions . First that a Hackney is a miserable , Voiture , and next , that a Man may be more tired in an hour in that , than in six hours riding in my Lord Ambassadors casiest Chariot . I saw a Boy that had Harness'd two Doggs , which drew a small Voiture with a Burden in it , and I saw a little Master in a little Vinegretté , drawn along by two Boys ; much bigger then himself , and push'd behind by a Maid . These I was willing to omit as thinking them at first sight scandalous , and a very jest , they being wretched businesses in so magnificent a City . Finding that neither Post chaises nor Rouillions were in use in London , I told them of 'em , how both Horses pull , but one only is in the Thilles , how the Coachman mounts the Rouillion , but for the Chaise he only mounts the side House , and that they might be introduced to good purpose . But I found the English Curiosity so small that I did not see any Rouillion made during my six months stay in London . As for their Recreations and Walks , St. James Park is frequented by people of Quality , who if they have a mind to have better and freer Air , drive to Hide Park , where is a Ring for the Coaches to drive round , and hard by is Mrs. Price's , where are incomparable Sillabubs , out of other parts of the Town , they go to Hamstead and Cane Wood , ( an admirable place for Nuts , as Mother Huffs for Bottle Ale ) scarce any side amiss . I had almost forgot that in St. James's Park are many Seats , for the Entertainment of all People , the Lackqueys and Mob excepted , but of this more hereafter . 'T is pretty to observe how the Magistrates indulge the Inhabitants of this Great City , by this small instanced , for whereas in Paris the King has caused the Citizens to take down their signs , and not to exceed a small measure of Square . In London they may be of what measure they please , even to a Monstrous bigness , as my great Curiosity observ'd , in the Sign of the Ship Tavern , and the Castle Tavern in Fleet-street , which has almost Obscur'd the Sun ; and Barbers hang out poles of a great huge length almost as long as a Missen Mast. There are a great may Publick Inns in London , where Lodging are to be Let , as the Bull Inn in Bishopgate-street , the Saracens Head in Friday-street , the White Horse in Fleet-street , and others . But besides these there are divers other places so called ; as Cliffords Inn , Clements Inn , Lyons Inn , &c. where several Gentlemen Practioners of the Law Reside . This seems as it were to denote that heretofore Attorneys might lodge in Publick Inns as well as other Strangers . In the River of Thames , both above Bridge and below , are a vast number of Boats of Wood , Hay , Charcool , Corn , Wine , and other Commodities . When a Frost comes there are not so many . But when a Thaw comes , they are often in danger of being Split and Crush'd to piecss . And upon my Word , there have been great losses to the Owners of such Boats and goods , upon such occasions . The reason why there are more Boats below Bridge than above , is because there is a Custom House , which brings into the King of England , a Revenue able to defend the sovereignty of the Seas , against any Enemy whatsoever ; and the Reason why there lie so many Hundred Large Vessels of all sorts and of all Nation ; is because they cannot get through Bridge Heigh ! and there are a great many light boats loaden with Brooms , Gingerbread , Tobacco , and a Dram of the Bottle Ho! Above Bridge is a vast Boat , with a House upon it , and a Garden in the Garret , and further up the River at Chelsey , is a Land Ship very large built on purpose never to go to Sea. There are Beggars in London , and people whose necessities force them to ask relief from such as they think able to afford it . But there are no Monks who declare against Marriage . And a Certain Learned Person told me that he did not like starved Monks , but that he was for free marriage , and that the Flesh-eaters will ever defend themselves if not beat the Lenten men . Therefore he was entirly for Propagation , that men might be like the Stars in the Firmament , or the shells and sand upon the Sea shore ; and so notwithstanding any Circumstances of Life Age or Fortune , should marry , and that it was as prudent in an old Man of threescore and ten , as in a Youth of one and twenty . There is a great deal of Noise in this City , of publick Cries of things to be sold , and great disturbance from Pamphlets and Hawkers . The Gazetts come out twice a week , and a great many buy ' em . When a thing is lost , they do not as in Paris , put a Printed Paper on the Wall , but if it be of small value , the Bell-man Cries it , and if it be a thing of greater moment as for Example , a Lapdog , &c. then they put it in the Advertisements . The streets are lighted all the Winter , but there is an impertinent usage of the people at London , not to light 'em , when the Moon shines . They ridiculously defend themselves by saying , they can see by moonshine , and have no more reason to hold a Candle to the Moon than to the Sun. There were three Young Gentlemen of good Families in a Frolick , went a scouring , broke the Lights , and were sent to the Counter , and could not be releas'd thence without diligent Application of Friends , and paying Garnish to their fellow Prisoners . The Avenues to the City , and all the Streets are Paved with Pebbles , and Flints and Rag Stones , and there is great care to keep them clean . In winter for Example , upon melting of the Ice , you shall see all the Prentices and Porters up in Arms , with Brooms and Paring Shovels ; so that in a few hours time all parts of the Town are to admiration clean , and neat again to walk on . I could heartily wish , I had been at London in Summer , to have seen whether they have more Dust at London , than in Paris . I have notwithstanding in my Curious Enquiries after Dust , found that there are several dust Carts about the Town , and there are several Women that take delight , and as I have heard pay money to ride in em . A fine Lady about the Town , was taken thence , and upon her change of clean Linning took upon herself the Title of Clinderaxa . There are several Statues , both at Charing-cross , in the City , and at the Exchange , but my Relish being not for Art but Nature , as I have before declared , I think fit to meddle with 'em , as little as I can . I happen'd to go with a Lady to Hide Park Corner , where in an open Area , we saw several Naked Statues , at which she out of a fond humour , or hoc sit of Devotion , took some offence . I told her , Cicero somewhere says , that some of the ancient wise men thought there was nothing naturally obscene , but that every thing might be call'd by its own name ; she told me I was making an Apology for talking obscencely . I reply'd no , but added , Why should Nudity be so offensive since a very great part of the World yet defies Cloaths , and ever did so ; and the parts they do most affect to cover , are from a certain necessity only : At which she blush'd , and I for the sake of further Discourse begun a long story about Roman Cloths , and told her , a Roman was as soon undress'd as I can put of my Gloves and Shooes . For he had nothing to do but to loose the Girdle of the Tunica , and to draw up both his Arms from under the Tunica , and he was in Bed immediately , whereas I had a hundred fatigues to undergo , as unbuttoning by Collar , untying my Knee-strings ; and several other things that would make a Man impatient to think of . I told her likewise it was after the first Ages of the Commonwealth , that they found out the invention of putting a Shirt next the Skin ; that as for Ruffles and Steenkirks , they were never added in the very Splendor and Luxury of the Empire . I continued my Discourse , that I , much admire I could never meet with a Statue in London , but what was Cloathed with a Toga pura and no representation of a Bullated one . I told her , that the Romans indeed wore Flannel Shirts , but in my mind a fair Linnen Shirt every Day , is as great a preservative to Neatness and Cleanness of the Skin , as going to the Bagnio , was to the Romans . The Lady smil'd and told me , Sir , I am glad you have Cloth'd the poor Creatures , that we found Naked . This seeming to be spoke in a Ridiculous way , something provoked me , but spying a little State of Mother Shipton , whose Face was deep within the Quoifure ; says I , Madam , this Woman looks as if she were ashamed of her Cheat : It was the fancy of King Henry the 8th's time to make Old Women Prophetesses , but I think to make them Sagae and Veneficae , ( that is in plain English Sorceresses and Poisoners ) is reasonable enough , for Age makes all People Spiteful , but more the weaker Sex. So we parted in chagrin , for I believe the Lady Modestly speaking , was upwards of fifty . I heard of several Persons that had great Collections of Rarities , Pictures , and Statues . But I was resolved to Visit but a few , and those the most Curious ; and when I made any Observations , that they should be to the purpose . So I visited Mr. Doncaster , He Entertained me very Civilly ; He has a very fine Octogon Room , with a Dome . He has very fine Pictures , though I must confess as before , I have no relish for Painting . He show'd me some Pictures of Rubens , in which the Allegoric Assistants in the Tableaux are very airy and fancifully set out . He show'd me , likewise , one of Vandyke , but being Painted in Dishabile , it had a Foppish Night-Gown and Old Quoifure . Which lead me into this Reflection , that the Modern Painters have hereby an opportunity to be idle . He has several other Curiosities ; among the rest was a Roman Glass , whose very bottom was smooth and very little umbilicate . He show'd me , likewise , a great Rummer of two Quarts , very proper for Rhenish Wine , and Limon and Sugar in the midst of Summer ; I found that the foot of the latter was more Umbilicated than the former . He then diverted me with a Copy of the Writing said to be the Devil 's Writing , kept in Queen's Colledge in Oxford . Upon which I began the Discourse of these matters ; I told him , that the Chinese were very much Embarass'd in their Writing , as this Writing seem'd to be . But I was rather inclin'd , to think this the Boustrophedon way mention'd by Suidas like the Racers about the Meta in the Cirque . But I could not find that he had any apprehension of the matter . In this Collection , I saw a Millers Thumb , which he told me was taken by a Miller with his Thumb and fore finger . It is very like a Hippocumpus as to the Thick belly and breast of it . With this I was extreamly pleased , and am infinitely oblig'd to this Mr. Doncaster , for he show'd me several sort of Tadpoles and Sticklebacks , which only for bigness are not much unlike a Pope , or Ruff , and presented me with one of 'em , which I design to give a draught of . I was to visit Mr. Muddifond , I was sorry to hear that he had some thoughts concerning the Hearts of a Hedghog , which had made a very great breach betwixt Mr. Goodenough and himself . I could have wish'd , I might have reconcil'd the Animosity . But it is to be Hoped there may come good from an Honest Emulation . I had several discourses with Mr. Muddifond , about an Old Cat and a Young Kitling in an air Pump , and how the Cat died after 16 Pumps , but the Kitling surviv'd 500 Pumps . Upon which we fell into a Learned Dicourse , of the lives of Cats ; and at last agreed upon this distinction , That it ought not to be said that Cats , but that Kitlings have nine lives . And after the dispute ended , he very obligingly procured me a Human Heart . But I must confess the generosity of the English in this , for not many days after Mr. Baddington , procured me another , which was extreamly Grateful . I was recommended by a Friend to Mr. Brownsworth , a Person that belongs to the Tower of London . He is a Civil Gentleman , but his genius lead him more to Politicks than Curiosity . He proffer'd to shew me the new Armory , in which are Arms , as he told me , for above a Hundred Thousand Men , all dispos'd in a manner , most surprizing and magnificent ; as likewise another Armory , where are Arms for Twenty Thousand Men more . He would likewise have shew'd me the Horse Armory , a Royal Train of Artillery , and several Cannon taken out of the Trident Prize . He would likewise have carryed me to see the Crown Imperial , and other Jewels belonging to it . I humbly thank'd him , and told him , that my Curiosity led me otherwise , and that my Observations inclin'd rather to Nature than Dominion . Upon which smiling he said , he hoped he should gratifie me , and immediately led me to a place where we saw Lyons , Tygers , and two very remarkable Catamountains . I took more particular Notice of two Owls , of an immense greatness , but by their being without horns , I take 'em not to be a distinct Species from the European . But that with which I was most delighted , was a Calf skin stuft , 't was admirable to behold , a certain tumor or excrescence it had upon its forehead , in all points resembling the Commodes or Top-knots now in Fashion . Upon this I exprest my thanks to Mr. Brownsworth in the most Obliging Terms I could . He then told me , the Royal Mint was not far off , upon which I said , I was a great admirer of Coins , and desired him to give me an account of what Coins there were in England He began to tell me , that about three Years ago the current Coin of the Kingdom consisted of old Money , coin'd by several Kings ; that those Coins were Clipt and debased to a very great degree , but that the King with the advice of his Parliament , in the very heighth of the War with France , had establish'd a Paper Credit ( or if you please to call it Coin ) of Bills , issued out of the Exchequer and Notes from the Royal Bank of England , amounting to prodigious sums ; that at present all our Silver is in Mild Mony , either of the two last Kings , or his present Majesty , of which there is so great a Quantity , that posterity will be apt to think , that there were scarce any Prince that ever Coin'd before him . This Money , and Credit , have circulated so far , and are in so great a plenty , that in a late subscription to a New East India Company , Two Millions Sterling were subscrib'd in less than two days time , and as much more excluded ▪ I believe the Man would have run on till Evening , if I had not thus interrupted him : Sir , said I , I beg you to consider , that I am a Virtuoso , and that your present discourse is quite out of my Element : Sir , you would oblige me much more , if you could find me any Coin from Palmira , more particularly of Zenobia , Odenatus , or Vabalathus , and that I prefer'd a VABALATHUS UCRIMPR , or a VABALATHUS AUG . before Twenty of the best pieces of Gold Coin'd in the Tower. The Gentleman very Civilly reply'd , that he would endeavour to satisfie my Curiosity ; that he had at home two rusty Copper Pieces , with which he intended to present me , ( which he accordingly did the next day ) that he had been told by a Person of the Belles Lettres , that they were dug out of the Isle of Scilly , and that One was of Catathumpton a Saxon Prince , the other of Goclenia his Daughter and Successor ; they have both very odd Characters , ( if any ) about ' em . I design to give the Reader a Cut of them . The Evening coming on , and my thanks returned to him , we parted . I was to see Mr. Shuttleworth , whose Friendship I greatly Value ; He has many Stones from Scotland ; there is one the most Curious of all , Concerning which he is ready to publish a Dissertation . 'T is a Catalogue in three Columns , of the Names of the most Principal Persons that were Kill'd at Chivey Chase. Widdrington closes the Column , and after his Name there is a Noble Pindarick in which he is Recorded , upon the Cuting off his Legs , to have fought upon his Stumps . Of the Antiquity of this Stone , besides the known History and names which justify the time of those Men , the figure of the Letters and the Blackness of 'em , particularly of the word Stumps , are undoubted Arguments . He show'd me a Thousand other Rarities as the skin of a Cap-Ass , many very excellent Land Snails , a Freshwater Mussel from Chatham ; A thin Oyster , a very large Wood Frog , with the extremity of the Toes Webbed . He show'd me some papers of Swammerdam , in which were some small Treatises , or rather some figures only of the Tadpole . Again figures relating to the natural History of a certain Day Butterfly , and of some considerable number of Snails , as well naked as fluviatile . He show'd me a vast number of great Cases in which were Play-things , or Puppets , all of them brought from France , Except one Sistrum , or AEgyptian Rattle , with three loose , or running wires cross it . I proffer'd him my assistance to Complete so useful a Collection as that of Play-things and Rattles . I was infinitely pleased with this Gentlemans Company , especially when he shew'd me a Dissertation he had written out fair for the Press , about a certain antient Intaglia of Madaces of Ptolomaeus Auletes , or the player upon the Flute : in this he said the thin Muffler was the most Remarkable . Upon this I told him , that I had a dissertation concerning the Remarkable thickness and thinness of Mufflers , with which I would present him . One Toy I took notice of , which was a Collection of Tennis Balls ; for three hundred years or more , some of them were sent by a French King , to King Henry V. and there are patterns of all that the English have sent back , from the bigness of the smallest bor'd musket , to the shells of the largest mortars . I went to see an Old Woman ( that shall be nameless ) she was 91 Years of Age. I was surprized to find her Body in Ruins . It was a perfect mortification to see the sad decays of Nature . To hear her talk with her Lips hanging about a toothless Mouth , end her words flying abroad at Random ; this put me in mind of the Sybils uttering Oracles , and how other Old Women , call'd Witches , have been since employed on this errand , and have at very unreasonable times of night been forced to bestride their Broom-staff on such like occasions . I would have seen a very Famous Library , near St. James's Park , but I was told , that the Learned Library Keeper was so busy in answering a Book which had been lately wrote against him , concerning Phalaris , that it would be rudeness any ways to interrupt him ; though I had heard of his singular Humanity , both in France , and other places . I was at an Auction of Books , at Tom's Coffee-House , near Ludgate , where were above fifty people . Books were sold with a great deal of Trifling and delay as with us , But very Cheap , those Excellent Authors Mounsieur Maimbourg , Mounsieur Varillas , and Mounsieur le Grand , tho' they were all guilt on the Back , and would have made a very considerable Figure in a Gentlemans Study , yet after much tediousness , were sold for such Trifling sums , that I am asham'd to name ' em . The Pox here is the great business of the Town . This secret service has introduced little contemptible Animals of all sorts into business ; and Quacks here , as with us , do thrive vastly into great Riches . It was very pleasant diversion to me to read upon the Walls , every where about the Town , the Quacks Bills in great Uncial Letters . As Aqua Tetrachymagogon . Another , Read , Try , Judge , and Speak as You Find . Another , The Unborn Doctor , that Cures all Diseases . He is to be spoke with at a Boiling Cooks , in Old Bedlam , from Ten till Two , and afterwards at his Stage in Moorfields . Another , At the Golden Ball , and Lillies Head , John Case lives , though Saffold's dead . By these Bills it is Evident , there is yet a certain Modesty and decorum left in Concealing this Disease , and people , though they may have failings in private , don't care to expose themselves to the publick . There are Women , that are seventh Daughters , that do admirable Cures , and there are people that can pick Pockets , and afterwards by Consulting the Stars , tell you who it was that did it . I met with a Gentleman , that told me a secret , That the old Romans in their Luxury took their Tea , and Chocolate , after a full meal , and every man was his own Cook in that Case . Particularly Caesar that most admirable and most accomplish'd Prince , being resolv'd to Eat and Drink to excess before he lay down to Table , Emeticen agebat , prepared for himself his Chocolate , and Tea . He presented me with a Roman Tea Dish , and a Chocolate Pot , which I take to be about Augustus's time , because it is very Rusty ; my Maid very ignorantly was going to scour it , and had done me an immense Damage I saw several Gardens at K●ngsland ; the Gardiner was an Artist , and had some plants in cases in good order , not to be seen elsewhere , as Marum Syriacum , Rosemary-Bushes , &c. I was at Chelsey , where I took particular notice of these plants in the Green House at that time ; As , Urtica male olens Japoniae , the stinking nettle of Japan . Goosberia sterilis Armeniae , the Armenian Goosberry bush , that bears no Fruit , this had been potted Thirty Years . Cordis Quies Persia , which the English call Heartsease , or Love , and Idleness , a very Curious Plant. Brambelia Fructificans Laplandiae , or the Blooming Bramble of Lapland . With a Hundred other Curious plants , as a particular Collection of Briars and Thorns , which were some part of the Curse of the Creation . The Winter was very rude and fierce . Multitudes had little Tin Kettle in their Houses , with Small-coal kindled , to light their Pipes withal ; though in some places they use Candles , in others Salamanders . I was at Bartholomew Fair. It consists of most Toyshops ; also Fiance and Pictures , Ribbon-shops , no Books ; Many Shops of Confectioners , where any Woman may commodiously be treated : Knavery is here in perfection , dextrous Cut-Purses , and Pick pockets : I went to see the Dancing on the Ropes , which was admirable . Coming out I met a man that would have took off my Hat , but I secur'd it , and was going to draw my Sword , Crying out , Begar ! Damn'd Rogue ! Morblew , &c. when on a sudden I had a hundred People about me , Crying here , Monsieur , See Jephtha's Rash Vow , here , Monsieur , see the Tall Dutch Woman ; see the Tyger , says another ; see the Horse and no Horse , whose Tayl , stands where his Head should do ; see the German Artist , Monsieur ; see the Siege of Namur , Monsieur : So that betwixt Rudeness and Civility , I was forc'd to get into a Fiacre , and with an air of Hast , and a full Trot , got home to my Lodgings . I was at St. James's Park ; there were no Pavillions , nor decoration of Treilliage , and Flowers ; but I saw there a vast number of Ducks ; these were a most surprising sight , I could not forbear to say , to Mr. Johnson , who was pleased to Accompany me in this Walk , that sure all the Ponds in England had contributed to this profusion of Ducks ; which he took so well , that he ran immediately to an Old Gentleman , that sate in a Chair , and was feeding of 'em , he rose up very obligingly , embraced me , and Saluted me with a Kiss , and invited me to Dinner ; telling me , he was infinitely oblig'd to me for flattering the King's Ducks . Of the Food of the Londoners . The Diet of the Londoners consists chiefly of Bread and Meat , which they use instead of Herbs . Bread is there as in Paris , finer and courser , according as they take out the Bran. This I observ'd , that whereas we have a great deal of Cabbage , and but a little bit of Meat , they will have Monstrous pieces of Beef ; I think they call 'em Rumps , and Buttocks , with a few Carrets , that stand at a distance as if they were fright'd ; nay I have seen a thing they call a Sir-Loin , without any Herbs at all , so immense , that a French Footman could scarce set it upon the Table . They use very white Salt , notwithstanding , I told 'em , the Gray Salt of France is incomparably better , and more wholesome . The Common people feed much upon Grey Pease , of which there are great Provisions made , and to be had ready Boiled . I believe they delight in 'em most for Supper ; for every Night there goes by a Woman crying , Hot Grey Pease , and Bacon . Though I take Pease to be too windy for Supper meat , and am inclinable to believe , that Hot Ox Cheek , and Bak'd Wardens , cried at the same time may be wholesomer . Their Roots differ much from ours , there are no long Turneps , but round ones , Hackney near London it famous for this most excellent Root , they are most excellent with boil'd and stew'd Mutton , and sometimes with stew'd Beef . I sound more Cabbage in London than I expected , and I saw a great many reserves of old stalks in their publick Gardens . I ask'd the Reason . I was told the English were Fantastick , as to Herbs , and pulse ; that one Trade , or Society of Men , fancied them and Cowcumbers , and that a whole Country were as much admirers of Beans and Bacon ; and this they thought might be the reason of it . Lettice is the great and Universal Sallet ; But I did not find much Roman Lettice , because about Ten Years ago , a Gentleman sending his Footman to Market , he mistook , and ask'd for Papist Lettice and the ill Name has hindred the vent of it ever since . There are several others in the Herb market , as Mints , Sorel , Parsley , very much us'd with Chickens , White Beets , Red Beets , and Asparagus ; these they ty up in Bundles , and impose so far , as not to sell under a hundred at a time . This City is well serv'd with Carp , Herrings , Cod , Sprats , Lobsters , and Maccarel ; of which there are such incredible quantities , that there is a publick allowance for Maccarel , as well as Milk , to be cried on Sundays . Being desirous to see the Markets , I had a Friend that one Morning , carried me to Leaden hall . I desired to know what Mushrooms they had in the Market . I found but few at which I was surpris'd , for I have all my Life been very Curious and inquisitive about this kind of Plant , but I was absolutely astonish'd to find , as that for Champignons , and Moriglio's , they were as great strangers to 'em as if they had been bred in Japan . He promis'd to carry me to the Flesh Market , and there to make me amends , but when I came there alas , there was a Thousand times too much of it , to be good , the sight of such a quantity was enough to surfeit one . I verily believe in my Conscience there were more Oxen , than Cabbages , and more Leggs of Mutton , than Heads of Garlick in the Market . What Barbarous Soupes then must these poor people Eat ! Their Veal , has not that beautiful Redness , which belongs to ours , and indeed their mutton seems more like it only it is Fatter , and their Beef is large and Fat , to that degree , that it is almost impossible to Roast it dry enough for to make it fit for any Christian ( that has the least of our Country indisposition about him ) to Eat it with any safety . There were several Mountains of this Beef , which they call'd Barons and Chines , which they told me were for one of the Sheriffs . I 'll undertake with one of these Chines , together with Cabbage , Turneps , and other Roots , Herbs , and Onions Proportionable , to make Soup enough for the Parliament of Paris . The English People , by Custom , Covet the freshest Meat , and cannot endure the least tendency to Putrefaction , which gives it a higher and salter Tast ; for as Meat rots , it becomes more Urinous and Salt , which is all in all in the matter of Soups . I saw but one Fowl in the Market that was fit to be Eaten , its smell was delicious , and its colour of a beautiful Green ; I desired my Friend to ask the Price , but the Poulterer told him it was sold to a French Merchant . I have several other things that I might discourse of , as Kentish Pippins , Pears , Kidney-Beans , and Lentils . Preaching , Gaming , Coaching , Carting , Walking , Sitting , Standing , &c. I would likewise have given the Reader the Cuts of the Nidus Trochili Anglicani , or Weens Nest , a Stickleback , two Snails , two Grashoppers , and those admirable Coins of Catathumpton , and Goclenia ; But that my Bookseller said the Graver was out of the way . What may be wanting in this , some other Journeys , that I design to , the two Universities , Norwich , Bristol , Exeter , Canterbury , and other Trading Places , I hope will supply . FINIS . Upon Reviewing my Notes , I find the following Remarkable Things omitted in my Treatise ; which that the Publick may not want , I have thrown into a Postscript . The Wines follow , and Waters to Drink . HAre-Court , has excellent Water , some people use New-River , others Thames Water ; I told them , that we had several Liquors in France , as Vin de Bonne , Volne , Mulso , Chabre , Condrieu , and D' Arbris , Ratafia , otherwise called Cherry-Brandy , Vattee , Fenoulliet de l'Isle de Ree . He answer'd me , that he had a thousand such sort of Liquors , as Humtie Dumtie , Three Threads , Four Threads , Old Pharoah , Knockdown , Hugmateè , Shouldreè , Clamber-Crown , Hot-Pots at Newgate-Market , Fox-comb , Blind Pinneaux , Stiffle , &c. I must not omit a famous sight in Drury Lane , a place remarkable for Modesty , and Piety , there is a sign of Six Doggs , that Plough'd an Acre of Ground , which I believe , may for want of Horses , be introduced into France , with good Effect . They have very good Mastiffs that may serve for Dragoons , but they will scarce fall upon Protestants . Notes, typically marginal, from the original text Notes for div A60917-e1030 Page 1. Curiosity P. 5. P. 4. P. 2. P. 2. John Sharp and Sir Charles Cotterel compar'd . P. 3. P. 4. P. 5. Menages . P. 5. Brick and Stone Houses . P. 8. Port-cochezs and Remises . P. 8. Cellar Windows . P. 9. Bureaus . P. 9. Things wanting in England for want of Commerce with France . P. 142. P. 10 , Kennells . P. 10. Squares . James ' s Bloombury . P. 10. P. 11. Knights-bridge and Islington . P. 11. Coaches P. 13. P. 13. Boy in a little Coach. Post chaises Rouillions not in England . P. 14. Receations and Walks . P. 14. P. 16. Signs in the streets . P. 16. Inns The White Horse in Fleetstreet , &c. P. 17. Boats. P. 20. Beggar . No Monks P. 21. Publick Cries . P. 22. Streets Lighted . P. 23. P. 24. Streets clean . Dust. P. 25. Statues . Naked Statues Commended at Hide-Park Corner . P. 29. P. 30. P. 30. P. 30. P. 31. P. 31. Flannel Shirts found out at Rome . P. 31. 32. No Steenkirks at Rome . P. 33. Commendation of Linnen Shirts . Old Women Witches . P. 34. Mr. Doncaster . P. 36. P. 39. 40. P. 38. Rummer of two Quarts . P. 48. P. 5●● Miller's Thumb . P. 58. Sticklebacks . Mr. Muddifond . P. 66. 67. Kitling in an air Pump . P. 2. P. 71. Mr. Browns . worth . P. 2. Owls . P. 73. P. 2. P. 73. Calf with a Top-knot . P. 97. Coins of Vabalathus . P. 115. Coins of Catathumpton and Goclenia . P. 121. P. 46. Moniment of Chivey-Chase . Asses , Snails , &c. P. 60. Ibid. Ibid. P. 61. P. 73. P. 103. P. 43. Play things , Puppets , Rattles . P. 111. A Differtation of Mufflers . P. 93. Tennis Balls . P. 95. An Old Woman . Auction . Pox. P. 236. P. 239. P. 238. Chocolate and Tea : P. 169. P. 187. Rosemary and Marum Syricum . P. 183. P. 229. Small-coal Kettles . P. 176. Bartholomew's Fair. Pick Pockets . P. 10. Ducks . P. 207. Bread. P. 146. Salt. P. 147. Grey Pease . P. 148. Turneps . P. 149. Cabbage P. 150. Lettice . P. 151. P. 152. Ibid. P. 151. P. 152. P. 152. Mushrooms . P. 154. P. 153. Soupes . P. 157. Chine of Beef . P. 158. English no Lovers of stinking Meat . P : 159. P. 148. P. 174. Ibid. P. 178. P. 180. Notes for div A60917-e7830 P. 160. Water . P. 161. P. 164. Humtie Dumtie , &c.