An itinerary contayning a voyage, made through Italy, in the yeare 1646, and 1647. Illustrated with divers figures of antiquities. Never before published. / By Jo: Raymond, Gent. Raymond, John, Gent. This text is an enriched version of the TCP digital transcription A92196 of text R33233 in the English Short Title Catalog (Thomason E1128_1). Textual changes and metadata enrichments aim at making the text more computationally tractable, easier to read, and suitable for network-based collaborative curation by amateur and professional end users from many walks of life. The text has been tokenized and linguistically annotated with MorphAdorner. The annotation includes standard spellings that support the display of a text in a standardized format that preserves archaic forms ('loveth', 'seekest'). Textual changes aim at restoring the text the author or stationer meant to publish. This text has not been fully proofread Approx. 253 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 168 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. EarlyPrint Project Evanston,IL, Notre Dame, IN, St. Louis, MO 2017 A92196 Wing R415 Thomason E1128_1 ESTC R33233 99872350 99872350 169401 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal . The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission. Early English books online. (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A92196) Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 169401) Images scanned from microfilm: (Thomason Tracts ; 164:E1128[1]) An itinerary contayning a voyage, made through Italy, in the yeare 1646, and 1647. Illustrated with divers figures of antiquities. Never before published. / By Jo: Raymond, Gent. Raymond, John, Gent. Cross, Thomas, fl. 1632-1682, engraver. [48], 284, [4] p. : ill. (metal cuts) Printed for Humphrey Moseley, and are to be sold at his Shop at the Princes Armes in St. Pauls Church-yard, London : 1648. With an additional title page, engraved, "Il Mercurio Italico communicating a voyage made through Italy ..", signed: T. Cross sculpt. The first leaf is blank except for signature-mark "A". With a final errata and imprimatur leaf; the last leaf is blank. Annotation on Thomason copy: "nou: 2d". Reproduction of the original in the British Library. eng Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800. A92196 R33233 (Thomason E1128_1). civilwar no An itinerary contayning a voyage, made through Italy, in the yeare 1646, and 1647.: Illustrated with divers figures of antiquities. Never b Raymond, John, Gent 1648 40925 29 50 0 0 0 0 19 C The rate of 19 defects per 10,000 words puts this text in the C category of texts with between 10 and 35 defects per 10,000 words. 2007-07 TCP Assigned for keying and markup 2007-07 Aptara Keyed and coded from ProQuest page images 2008-05 Elspeth Healey Sampled and proofread 2008-05 Elspeth Healey Text and markup reviewed and edited 2008-09 pfs Batch review (QC) and XML conversion AN ITINERARY Contayning A VOYAGE , Made through ITALY , In the yeare 1646 , and 1647. Illustrated with divers figures of Antiquities . Never before Published . By Jo : RAYMOND , Gent. LONDON , Printed for Humphrey Moseley , and are to be sold at his Shop at the Princes Armes in St. Pauls Church-yard . 1648. Roma Venetia Plebeae sane sunt istae animae quae suis affixae terris bona resident 〈◊〉 divinior est quae c●●●um Imitatur et gaudet metu . Il MERCURIO ITALICO Communicating A Voyage Made through Italy in the yeares 1646 & 1647 by I. R. Gent. Ne Plus Mome Vltra J. Cross Sculpt . London Printed for Hum : Moseley & are to be sold at 〈◊〉 shop at ye Princes Armes in St. Paules Church-yard . 1648 TO MY READERS Howsoever Qualified . Gentlemen , DEdicatory leaves to a Book , like a Curtaine before a picture , only beget some higher expectation of the Piece ; A weather beaten Traveller needs no such Vmbrilla as a Patron to shroud under . Though this Booke was not writ to bee Printed , yet the worst ( infallibly ) are printed to be read . My intention was to confine this wanderer to my Closet and no farther ; till the advice of some familiar , and command of Superiour Friends prest mee to exchange a single Manuscript for more Numerous Prints . I can challenge no other inducement then that I expose some Novelties which I question not but this age will disgest . For the cutts I have hither transported , interpret me not so much desirous to grace the Page , as to preserve Antiquity . My choyce consisting of those things I never before saw publisht . I Speake plurally through my whole Transcursion , because that particle ( wee ) implyes asseveration , or in Reference to Gentlemen my fellow Travellers , who can affirme what I relate . Some ( though strange yet no Contradiction ) have seene this Booke before the Authour pend it ; to those my sentence is referd : such as looke into forraine parts through the spectacles of Imagination only , have no Patent either to Justify or condemne me , to these therefore may I appeare a Romance , to the others a Reall story . J. R. TO THE Most Illustrious PRINCE CHARLES , Prince of Great BRITAINE , Duke of Cornwall and Aubigny , Earle of Chester , &c. May it please Your Highnesse , T Is humbly conceiu'd the duty of all the youth of ENGLAND to dedicate themselves and their endeavours to your HIGHNESSE : not onely in regard of your Native but Acquired Greatnesse , which drawes the eyes of all Good Men upon Your HIGHNESSE Person and Actions . This Sir makes mee humbly beg leave to lay my first fruits at Your HIGHNESSE feet , which ( without farther Presumption ) is the utmost Ambition of Your Highnesse most humble and most faithfully devoted JOHN RAYMOND . A LETTER from a most ingenious Freind , to whom the Authour sent His Mercurio Italico . SIR , I Returne your Papers by that hand which brought them : I have runne swiftly over your Itinerary , but am not so impudent to pronounce my thoughts on it ; unlesse I had more time or a steaddier Brain ; for after my riding three dayes poast I am fitter for sleep then Epistles . The thing most observable of all your Travells is your selfe , who are able to graspe so much of the World , when 't is not twice ten yeares since you came into it . I conceive it flowes from your good nature , thus to set markes on your severall Stages , that the Prints are visible to your freinds and Country : 'T was usefully done , since now so many of us are doom'd to wander , not like Cain for drawing blood , but for asking Peace . Did others follow your example , this unhabitable-VVorld would have more Manners and lesse News . Many Itineraries I have seene in Latine , few in English , and those so partiall , that Countries are describ'd ( as Committees do Gentlemen ) not as they are , but as they would have them . 'T is a Noble Meditation how Greece and Italy ( two great Champions ) looke over the Water , Daring and threatning and watching each other ; 't was once so 'twixt France and England . Such as have seen them will say how exactly you shew us Rome , Venice , Florence , Naples , Milan , Genua , Bolonia , Padua , and those other Glories beyond the Alpes : to me this great limbe of the World ( Italy you know is a leg ) not your foot but your hand hath gone over as a brief , elegant , smart Anatomist . But I am sorry you mention Virgils Tombe , for now people will thinke hee is mortall ; sure his owne Pile ( built three stories high , of Eclogues , Georgicks , and Aeneads ) will last as long as the round World . In this Journey others went before you , so as you are forc'd almost upon gleanings , yet here ( as in the Field ) gleanings put togeather are the best of the Corne . Now you are come home , you 'l have stranger sights then any abroad ; you 'l see Great Brittaine a Floating Island , and the most vertuous Monarch under Heaven cast into a small Isle as on some plank in a great Ship-wrack . You 'l find London ( like the Spleen in the Body ) hath rendred other Parts poore and languid ; so as now England is but one great Towne ; this London all sides do court and hate , and shee is so much cocknay to thinke it will continue , having kickt at all , and made no freind . Sir , when you behold a Kingdome without a King , a Church without Clergy , a University without Scholars , you 'l grant wee have a thorough Reformation . But two houres since I saw a better sight then Italy affords ; 't is His Highnesse the Prince of Wales , who for Soule and Body is sure the most hopefull Prince in the Christian World ; whose comming hether this afternoone brings a floud of businesse ( as well as joy ) on all the English in this Towne , especially on such as come for Dispatches ; and that 's the very reason why now you must excuse , Sir , Amiens Iul : 11. Stilo novo 1648. Your most affectionate humble Servant . J. BERKENHEAD . On his Friends Mercurio Italico . GOe with your Hellish Heliconish spells , Raise puffpast , kneade unleav'ned sillables , Expatiate on a page in Tiptoe sence To pacifie the witts concupisence Make Cupid dance o' th Ropes ; O! this is sport Will drill the Tenements of the — — — Planetick N●ntio tell him that peepes here Tyber and Thames concorporate this yeare . Minnums , leave Padling in your feeble Geare . Marke how the lusty Gray Beards hugg each other Their Elementall sobbs the consort smother . These to their Native Beds Retreate ; But see Antiquity swadled in a Novelty . Yet no Booth Progeny to be Gaz'd on Guest , Nor Loud ones with the Mandeville posest ; Rare , not miraculous Blusterers that can Preach up the Booke but chatechise the Man . What though * Hells Centinell that Champion stout , Spit wildfire , Blow the Dayes Taper out ? Or those insulting † Gogmagogs rehearse But pimples in the Corpulent Vniverse ; All 's safe : Begin thy Voyage Reader , trye ; Delay will Annalize a Diary . Travells goe twice abroad , both merit Praise ; First they drive dayes to yeares , then yeares to dayes . J. N. An Introduction to ITALY . IT is preeminence enough methinkes for Italy that shee did then sway the Allcoercive Scepter on Earth , when our Redeemer assum'd the flesh . To her we owe our Civility ; shee purchast it by conquests in the Levant ; Propogated it by Victories in the North , till dispairing of a Farther Plantation the Picts wall was her Vltima Thule ; perhaps least that people should have stumbled at the Innovation . To bee Retrograde on this subject were to rob History of her birthright , to insist on my owne ocular observation but veniall vsury . There are three evitable dangers that divert some from this Voyage ; the first is the heates of the Climate ; A second , that horrible ( in Report ) Inquisition ; the last , Hazard of those mercilesse Out Lawes Banditas . The first may bee allayd by Moderation , the second prevented by discretion ; the last avoided by the defence of those states you passe through . This Duke of florence quite extirpated that savage Race out of his Dominions by raising a competent number ; that personated Robbers and joynd in league with the reall ones till they fouud opportunity to dispatch them . As there is connivance at the Luterani ( for so they terme us ) so t is rashnesse to proclaime ones opinion , weakenesse to disclose it : This may gaine the Odium of the Better , this the injuries of the Vulgar . A novice of late so soone as he was come to Florence , said , Methinks this place is somewhat popishly affected . Another with more pardonable ignorance when his Host askt him whether he was walking in the Afternoone , replyd , to Masse . One of my Cotemporaries discoursing with a Fryar , in a Complemēt protested he did reverence Clergy men for that he was the sonne of a Priest in England : which the Monke could not conster but either an Irony to his Order , or Infamous to the Gentlemans owne descent . The most cautious tongue is incident to these Errours ; yet that nation is not so scrupulous as to take notice of a strangers words or actions unlesse openly scandalous ; for as Heretico is a name utterly detestable , so Tramontano by the Multitude is held contemptible , which low reputation begets a happy privacy to the Reserv'd Forreigner . That sort of People which Travellers have most agitation with as Vetturino's Hosts & the like , are very peremptory and crosse , which if you menace they wil repaire with double insolence ; knowing that if in the contest their Stilletto should do mischiefe , the next Church may be their Asylum , where no Law or violence can attempt them . The safest way is Dissimulation , and to winne better Accommodation amongst them disparage not , rather commend the worst . Their Osterias or Innes stand usually alone , remote from any Village , so that Passengers must bee content with what those Tabernae can afford , and he that seemes to dislike their feeble * Minestra perhaps shall have nothing but an * Allegramente for amends . This Inference I lay hold on to speake more amply of the Italian . Whilst Rome wore the Imperiall Diadem of the subdued World , it might have been a disputable Criticisme , whither Rome stood in Italy ; or Italy in Rome , That voice of fame which attributed all to the Roman ; derogated from the Renowne of the Italian : Now , since Rome did resigne the Crowne to the Miter ; Italy allowes her no Supremacy , but Ecclesiasticall ; and in the generall voge t is the most proper phrase to say such a man is an Italian , though a Native of Rome . However , in the Survey of this present Generation I finde a residue of the old Genius still surviving . That Roman Generosity yet runnes in the bloud of their Noble Families , which ( I have heard ) can draw their Pedigree from the great Masters of the World ; as that of the Savelli from Scipio Africanus . Neither doth the height of their spirits argue lesse . The Neopolitan is so elevated with his imaginary Revennewes that in his deepest poverty hee will speake thousands rather then betray his wants . One will sit gravely before his doore picking his teeth , and condemne the Capon hee eate last ; when a morsell of Bread would passe downe merrily . Another I have seen begging in this method : first he lookes about to see whether the Coast be cleare , before hee will utter one suppliant word ; then hee approaches in a more submisse straine , yet if any one chance to cast an eye that way ; he retreates to familiarity ; Pressing the justnesse of his Demands till hee obtaines the almes ; which if but a penny or so , hee casts it contemptibly in the Donours face , but soone after peaceably searches for the money , and when t is found prayes for the Benefactour . This is consonant with the Spaniard , so is the Genuesian as lofty as his buildings , so proud in his Garbe , that at our first nights Supper in Genua , some Fidlars came to welcome us with their Musick , but with so grave and stately a Preamble , that wee all withdrew from our seats to salute the men , imagining them no lesse then Magistrates . The Plebeians or Commonalty of Italy savour much of the Goths and Vandalls ; yet even these are frequently distinguisht with the worthy Appellations of Julio , Flaminio , Fabio , &c. In the Campagna di Roma I once espyde a Labourer tilling the ground neer some decayed Monuments ; whereupon I made towards the fellow and askt him what those Ruines were ; Hee answered mee , hee knew nothing ; but he had often heard his Grandfather tell a Story of one Signor Romolo , that fought there . A twinckling Tradition and implies much . They have a Recreation certainly deriv'd from their Ancestours , viz : La Mora , anciently micare Digitis , at the first it appeares but childishly ridiculous ; after better acquaintance , a kinde of Conjuration ; T is of force to binde the Fancy ; yet the most illiterate are best at the Game . And no wonder since this Ayre hath from all Ages checherisht the strongest Atlase's for Invention and Art . What Braine but Italian could contrive Engines to raise so vast a Moles as the Vatican Obelisque . Observe what machivillian unheard of Weapons they devise to surprize an enemy unawares . At Venice I saw a pocket Church Booke with a Pistoll hid in the binding , which turning to such a Page , discharges . A plot ( I conceive ) to entrap him you hate , whilst you are at your devotions together , when there 's least suspition . Another as rare , is a Pocket stone-Bow , which held under a Cloake shoots needles with violence to pierce a mans body , yet leaves a wound scarce discernable . A third is a walking staffe in appearance ; at the top is a Spring which graspt hard , at the other end will jet forth a Rapier with force enough to kill at a yards distance . A fourth is a Gunne to bee charg'd with winde , which for six paces will not faile of execution with a small or no report . To these I may adde their curious ( yet Illegall ) tricks in poyson , some mortall by smelling to , others that given now , shall have no operation till many moneths after . Some will attempt to poyson Rivers if they can but finde the Source or Fountaine ; and in Milan there stands a Pillar cald Colonna Infame , rais'd where a Magicians house was puld downe , who for a time poysond the whole City . I omit not their excellency in Statuary , Limming , Architecture , Gardning , Sceanes , Musick , in which all Europe gives them the precedency . In what perfection they have these faculties you may conclude from these Instances . Upon a Sepulcher in S. Peters at Rome , in a Combent posture lie the feminine Statues of Old age , and of Youth ; In the latter the Sculpturer hath so exceeded Nature , for Limbes , Features and Comelinesse , that t is said a Spaniard at his Beads left his Devotions to expiate his sense on that Niobe-like Lady , and for that reason a vaile of black Marble now covers Youths nakednesse ; whilst her neighbour old Age wants a Smock . For limming , one Mattia Casale of Sienna ( though no eminent Artist ) drew the Picture of a Prince so exactly , and with that vivacity , that in the Princes eyes , hee plac't his own Effigies perfectly discernable as in the Originall . Sir Henry Wotton a friend to Ingenuity , and a great admirer of it in the Italian , had transported out of Italy a Piece of two Dogs combating for a bone , done with that life ; that a third more living Curre entring into the Roome , very eagerly assaulted the Colours , which wanted nothing but motion , to resist him . For their Architecture I referre you to their Cities ; A Flandrian Embassadour leaving Florence , told the Great Duke his City deserv'd to bee seen never but on Holy-dayes . For their Gardens , I dare considently avow all Christendome affords none so voluptuous , as those within the Walls and Territory of Rome ; and at Bagnaia ( as I remember ) there 's a Walke for a hundred paces archt with Fountaines , so that a man may passe drye under the Element of water ; A trick might raise a Question in the Schooles . Their Sceanes , ( or as they terme them Operas ) are Regalios , they have not yet fully communicated to us , their other Arts wee daily borrow . A yeare since in a Representation at Venice , Phaeton in his Charriot drawne by foure Naturall well pamperd Steeds , were all hurld over the Theater in an Artificiall cloud . In this they but imitate Nature , marke how they subdue her . At the Marriage of the Duke of Florence there was brought on the Stage a Balletta , or dance of Horses ; whilst an Ape playde the ayre on a Gittarre ; A Florentin said a third Miracle was intended , Viz : a Consort of Parachitos voices , but the Schollars had not got their lesson perfect against the day appointed for the Nuptialls . They are so addicted to Musick , especially that of the Voyce , ( which indisputably is the best , ) that great Persons keep their Castrati , viz. Eunuch's whose throates and complexions scandalize their breeches . Neither is the Rout lesse propense to that though with lesser skill and art ; There 's no Fachin or Cobler but can finger some Instrument ; so that when the heats of the Day are tyr'd out to a coole Evening ; the Streets resound with confused , yet pleasant Notes . Their Carnavall is the fitest Season to vent any humours ; Hee 's most extold that can act the Mimick best : So many men , so many Crochets ; some abusive , others for Mirth . A Sanesian perhaps to satyrize on the French Vanity , got on a Sute a la Mode with all things correspondent ; but for his trimming , where wee place Gold Buttons ( as downe the Breeches . Round the knees , along the skirts &c. ) he wore little Hobby Horse Bells , and on his Crest stood a Cocks combe Triumphant ; Thus whilst he footed it gingerly through the streets , the spectators voushsaft him no other Title then Monsieur . From these passages I have here cited the Reader may collect of what temper this people is , by these following what that of the Country . Southern climates ( Philosophically ) refine the braine ; those that have adorn'd Italy with their singular endowments , owe perhaps as much to their Countrey , as she to them . Yet most certainely had Romulus his Successours aspird no farther then the Mud wall hee left them ; had those Legions of Worthies never beene borne there , wee should never have had such an esteeme of this Cisalpine clod ; the fertility of which I attribute not to the Soyle , but Site . The Earth yealdes these five Harvests successively ; First , in June , that of Silke ; in July , of diverse fruits ; in August , that of Corne , which they afterwards sow with Millio , Rice , Turkie Wheate , or the like graine , and within two moneths have another croppe . In September that of their wines . In October , that of Oyle . Most of those places celebrated by the old Poets for the rich gifts of Bacchus are degenerated from their pristine worth , yet in lieu of those , others are so enobled , that in a Moderate computation they have no lesse then twenty distinct Species of Liquor to please the Gusto ; the most dilicious , ( and but the Ethnick Ambrosia in a Christian Phrase ) they call Lachrymae Christi . They have few trees but what wee have seene in these parts . The Hesperian Apple , or Orange Tree is of a most ravishing beauty perpetually Verdant , bearing an Hortyard of Blossoms , greene and ripe Fruite altogether . Amongst their Medicinall Plants scarce knowne amongst us but in Apothicaries shoppes ; I tooke notice of one Odoriferous Hearbe called Basilico , which hath this innate power , that if laid under a stone in some moyst place , in two dayes it produceth a Scorpion , this I can assert by experience , and to countenance this story , there fell out a strange accident in my stay at Siena . A Gentleman was so pleas'd with the smell of this Basilico , that he had some dry'd and beaten into powder , which he snuft up , imagining it of the same force with Tobacco to cleare the head , but hee bought the experience at the price of his life , for hee dyed distracted ; His skull being afterwards opened by the Chyrurgion , a nest of Scorpions were found feeding on his Braine . For their creatures they have many not known to this Island , but for curiosity . About Rome they plow the land with Buffolos ; neere Sienna they hunt the wild Boare , with the Rowbuck , the Wolfe , the Porcupine , and the Tasso Cane or Mountaine Dog . They have many Reptilias , of strange natures . The Cimici are most Troublesome bed fellowes ; but Fleas in Folio , yet so dainty , as they will chuse their flesh ; my Chamberfellowes face hath lookt bigge as Boreas with them in one night , when they have not so much as toucht my skin , or disturbd my sleepe . They are very offensive to his nostrills that destroyes them . The Cantherides are greene flyes by day , and in the night passe about the fields ( a pleasing spectacle ) like flying Glowormes with fire in their Tayles . A Rimarra is a Philanthropall creature in forme like a Lyzzard , in bignesse much exceeding it . A Countryman told mee nature had so provided that the property of that beast was thus ; If a Peasent lay to repose himselfe in the shade , The Rimarra will vigilantly attend him , if a Serpent approach ( with which she is at enmity ) shee tickles the Countryman in the eare ; summoning him to stand on his guard . No lesse strange though true is the report of the Tarantula which some say is a Flye ; but at the opening of a doore in the Vatican their skipt out a creature not much unlike an Eft , onely with longer clawes , at which some Italians then in our company cryd out Vna Tarantula Tarantula The venome of the Tarantula is of such operation as hee that is stung while the fit continues falls a caparing ; and nothing can allay it but Musick . I saw a Capuchian at Siena who was perfectly well in his sences all the yeare till precisely the day came about whereon hee received a Bite of a Tarantula , then on a suddaine hee would skip like a Madman . Were these occurrences as Pleasing to my Reader as to my selfe , I should build gates for my Cities to run out of : This roughly hewed Portaile resembles the Alpes which past , behold Rome the Holy . Page 67 Venice the Rich. pag. 187 Naples the Gentle . p. 138 Florence the faire . p 28 Genua the Superbe . p. 10 Milan the Great . p. 238 Bolonia the Fat . p. 168 Padua the Learned . p. 205 Verona the Ancient . p. 226 AN ITENIRARY CONTAINING A breife Narration of a Voyage made through Italy , in the yeare 1646. and 1647. THere are but two ordinary passages out of France into Italy , the one over the Alpes , the other by the Mediterranean Sea , those commonly which goe by the first , returne by the second , and so contrary . We ( November being quite expired ere we left France ) for our owne convenience preferred a boate before a horse , I meane the Sea voyage , before the Land . Wherefore being come to Antibe the utmost City of France , wee found favour of the Governour ( it being a Frontiere and place of strength ) in giving us a Bill of health , without which it is very difficult to enter into any of the Italian States or Cities , & having over night procured a Filoaco to carry us all our way to Genua if so be wee mett with no Boate of returne betwixt thence and Monaco ; the next morning we departed , and about nine in the forenoone came before Nice in Savoy , situated on the Sea side , but hath no Port , the buildings are after the Italian , & it is commanded by a strong Castle that stands on a hill . Finding no convenience of imbarquing better here we sayled on , but at the point of Land that turnes towards Morgues , there arose a contrary winde , which forc't us to retyre into the next harbour , to wit Villa Franca ( aunciently called Portus Herculis ) where by permissiō of the Governour of the Citadell we lay that night . This place likewise belongs to the Duke of Savoy . The next day going out of the Haven we met with a Genova Filouco , & having agreed for our passage in that , quitted our former , yet no sooner were we in the boat but a Tempest drove us againe into the harbour ; so that we lost that day entirely . The day following we had both faire weather , & a calme Sea , which encourag'd our watermen to adventure out ; about 2. miles from Villa Franca we dis - a great vessell making towards us , which our Boatmen seemed to feare taking it , for a Turkish man of War , but we were afterwards informed to the cōtrary . A little further we strooke into the Port of Monaco , and after an houre or two stay there , the wind growing contrary , our Boatmen wisht us to tarry longer least wee should be exposed to a greater inconvenience , which wee the more willingly condiscended too , in regard , t is so remarkable a place as no stranger can well passe without especiall observation thereof ; for I must confesse I know no so small a principality of the like consideration , either for strength or riches ; The Prince of the family of the Grimaldi of Genua , is in his state soveraine , and coynes mony , but hath still some greater King for his Protector , of late yeares hee left the Spanish party , and gave himselfe with this his cheife Towne , to the King of France's tuition , so that at our arrive there , there was a strict garison of French ; the Marquis of Corbon being then Governour to whom wee had addresse from his Brother in Law at Antibe , us'd us very civilly , and sent a souldier with us ; to shew us all the rarityes that are there to be seene . Monaco ( whether I may properly call it a Town or Castle I know not ) is situated on the top of a rockey Promontory of incredible hard accesse , inviron'd with strong walls , within which are some streets very neately representing the face of a City , in the middest is a spacious court fit for to exercise military discipline in , at the end is the Princes Palace , which though Beautifull on the outside yet contains greater wealth within , cheifly in his Gardrobe , where the variety of Tapistries the great quantity of plate , with the vastnesse of vessels , as Fountaines , Tables , and such like of pure silver , striks amazement into him that sees it , besides this rich furniture , there are two Cabinets or Galeries of rare curiosities which excepting the Duke of Florences , may be equaled with most of that nature in Italy : amongst other singularities I was much taken with the statue of an Indian of Porphyre , and other materiall , as likewise a gemmery compil'd of severall pretious stones with these letters ; Otium Francisci Bembi ; The Prince was then in enlarging this Palace , and beautifying it with Marbles and waterworks . Having with great satisfaction seene all the particularities of this place , we returned downe to our Inne , and it growing towards night , some few howers before our departure a hard accident befell us , which was the losse of our Bill of health , wherefore though it was darke and the watch was set , yet wee sent up a letter by a string to the Governour , who very courteously returned us a Ticket of larger extent then our former . At midnight wee departed from Monaco past eight miles farther by Menton , a village belonging to the same Prince , and about breake of day we came before Vintimiglia the first city ( towards France ) of the Republique of Genua , from hence we were in view of the mountaines of Corsica and foure miles farther we past by Saint Remes , where the shore ( which is called by the name of the rive of Genua ) is all covered with Orange , Citron , and Date Trees . Past the rest of that day without seeing any thing remarkable , unlesse Porto Mauritio , where heretofore there was a very good Port which the Genuesians ruin'd , fearing it should bring prejudice to their owne . Towards night we strooke in at Oneille , a city which seemes to interrupt the Genois dominions , and belongs to the Duke of Savoy . After we had supt wee tooke boate and sayled all night by many Townes , viz. Diano , Araisse , where they fish for Corall , Albengue , Luan , a city of the Prince of Oria a Genois , Final a place of strength and the only garrison the King of Spaine hath in these coasts ; the Port though small yet serves much in the conveyance of men and amunition towards Milan . This place commonly pillageth strangers , they taking all for Frenchmen ; but ( praysed be God ) wee past quietly , and towards breake of day came before Savona ; The most ancient and greatest city of the Genevoisat after Genua it selfe . Behind this city , the Apennines that cleave Italy in sunder begin to take their rise . From hence to Genua is 35. Italian miles ; all which way one goes more and more into the pleasantnesse of Italy , the whole board being fild with Country Seats and Villages , which for beauty surpasse many cities I have seene elsewhere . Amongst those San Pietro d' Arania ( whither the richer Genuesians retire themselves in the sommer , and indeed may bee call'd another Genua for the gallantry of the buildings ) is the best ; but three miles distant from Genua , the Metropolis of that most flourishing Republick , which contains so stately Palaces , that from all the rest of Italy , it hath gotten the name of Genua the superbe . T is situated at the foot of very high mountaines , which though sterile , yet want nothing that Art can enrich them with ; In gardens , water-workes , and the like . That which exceeds all the rest , is the Prince of Orias Palace , reaching from the bottome of the shoare , to the top of the mountaines , divided into three gardens . In the first whereof the Terrasses or Porches one above another bore up with marble Pillars , is very magnificent , as likewise the Fountaine of the Eagles , and the Family of Neptune : at the one side that famous Cage of ironworke , which is of so vast an extent that it encloseth a wood of Cypresse and other trees . The other two are fild with Grottes , Orange trees ; and other variety of delights : At the upper part of all stands the statue of Jupiter tonant . Within the Pallace the Gardrobe full of rarietyes ; the Tapestries and precious Furuiture declare greatly the richnesse of that Prince . Next to this is the house of Hieronimo del Negro , where the excellent Pictures , the fall of waters , the Fountain , the Piscina , the Grove and other delightfull departments , are well worth seeing . On all sides of the City is an infinity of such places of pleasure , especially round about the Port , which is of a large circuit , resembling much the forme of a Theatre enclos'd with faire buildings . T is defended by a solid Bulwarke ( which they call Il Mole ) that lyes about 2 hundred paces into the Sea , rais'd at a very great expence : Opposite to that a rocky Promontory casts it selfe forth , at the head whereof stands a very lofty Pharos , bearing a lanterne of more then an ordinary bignesse , to guide Ships in the night : Within the Haven is a place where the Gallyes lay , every one in a particular Classis . As for the City it selfe , it is enough to say the Genuesians live in a Kingly luxury , and I believe it is the best built and compacted City , not onely of Italy , but also of Europe . The houses generally are very high , the streets for the most part ( its onely fault ) are somewhat narow , so that no Coaches are here admitted , which though an inconvenience , yet preserves the wayes more cleane and neater . I except here that spacious , long , even , and indeed Mistris of streets the Strada Nova , which I am confident may be justly preferd before any in Christendome , so proud in Architecture , so rich in Marbles are the Palaces t is fild with . The fairest one belongs to the Duke of Oria. Amongst the publick Edifices , the Exchange or Merchants Hall . the Dukes Palace with the Armory for 30 thousand men deserv'd our walking to . Neither are the Genuesians lesse splendid , in adorning their Consecrated places ; witnesse the mighty quantity of polish't Marble , wherewith all the Churches are fild , especially San Lorenzo the Dome , and Santo Ambrosio belonging to the Jesuites . But that which surpasseth all , and is of most admiration , is the Chappell of the Anunciade , begun to bee built not many yeares since at the expence of one Family , ( whose Palace joynes to it ) yet is of so incredible richnesse for the red and white Marble Pillars , and other ornaments , that one would imagine the revenues of a whole City could not bee enough to raise so glorious a Worke as that will be when t is finisht . Finally , the Genuesians to defend this their brave City , have encompast it with Walls no lesse commendable for beauty and strength , then prodigious for their large extent . The people of this Common-wealth are habited all alike , somewhat tending towards the Spanish Mode ; and are of a very austere and superbe humour , hardly vouchsafing to look so low as a stranger , wherefore having with much satisfaction seene their Flourishing Estate , wee left them . We set out from Genua in a Filouca about Sun-setting , and having sayld all that night , about noone the next day we strooke into Porto Venere , and after dinner crost the Golfe of Aspecia , ( which is defended with many strong Fortifications ) to Lerizi . This Bourg being the mid way from Genua to Ligourne ( such is the villany of the watermen in these parts ) if they get their passengers , chiefly strangers hither , they will so delay their departure , pretending the inconveniences of the weather , that by lying still at so great an expence , they may bee forc'd to give them their pay , and to hire horses for the rest of the way by Land . Which trick wee were forc't to suffer patiently , after a day and halfes attendance for our boat . Hence we tooke Post , and having past through the Olive woods , over the hills that lay neerest the shoare , wee came into a low plaine Countrey , which continued so to Ligorne . First we past the River Magre , then went by Sarazana , a good City , and last of the dominion of Genua , after that we came into the Principality of Massa , wherin we past by Lavenza and Carrara , where out of the hills they dig great store of Marble , and then through Massa it selfe , where the Prince resides in Estate Soveraigne . The Towne is very pleasant , standing in a Territorie fruitfull in Orange trees and other fruits . Hence wee came suddenly into Tuscany , but quickly left it , falling into a woody Country , belonging to the State of Lucas , and so to Viregio , under the same power , standing at the mouth of a small river , which runnes from Lucques . Here we were forc't to lye , and the next morning some two mile farther wee past the river that parts the Republique of Lucques from Toscany , and so in the morning arriv'd at Pisa . Which City was heretofore a great free state of it selfe , but at the rising of the family of the Medicis on which line the Dukes of Etruria successively runne , this with many other noble cities , was reduced to the great Dukes subjection . From whom it hath received many Embellisments . T is situated in a Marshy land , so that the unholesomnesse of the aire renders it scarce of the native people , much more of strangers which seldome tarry any longer then to see the rarities of the place . Amongst which I preferre that worthy peece of arte the Falling Tower which travellers boast of , ( and not undeservedly ) as one of the most mervellous things they see in the voyage of Italy . T is cover'd round with galleries & 7. rowes one above another of Marble Pillars , so that 't is hard to bee imagin'd by what engines so great a structure should be supported , it being built so declining to one side , that all men which regard it , at the first expect its fall . Hard by is the Dome or Cathedrall Church of Pisa ; where threescore Pillars testifie as well its Antiquity , as the Gates of Brasse its rarity . Joyning to this is the Campo Santo , or Cimetiere firm'd in with a wall of Marble , and much resembles a Cloyster ; in the midst is the Church yard from whence the place hath its denomination , that implies the holy Field ; because halfe the ground was brought from Jerusalem , and it hath a particular propriety , that all bodies which are buried there , are consum'd within the space of 40. houres . Here are likewise reserv'd many Ancient Urnes , which , with the story of the Old and New Testament painted of old worke , make the place very venerable . Hard by is the Baptistary , or San Giovanni ; wherein , the Font , and pulpit leaning on foure Lyons , will for the preciousnesse of the stone , yield to no other in Italie . Leaving the Area where these things stand together , a little more into the towne is the Chappell and Palace , of the Knights of the Order of St. Stephen , the Frontespiece of the Chappell is of Marble neatly pollish't . The inside is adorn'd with the truest Ensignes of Valour ; I meane Trophees taken from the common enemies of Christianity , the Turkes . Before their Palace is the statue of the great Duke Cosmus , with a Fountain . This Dignity of Knighthood is much like to that of Malta , both to maintain Christs cause against the Mahometans , yet these may marrie , the others I conceive may not : These weare a red Crosse for their badge in this fashion . ✚ From hence we walk't to the Physitians garden , which is more for use then delight ; although there be good walks , & water-works that well washt us , yet for the most 't is cover'd with simples , outlandish Plants and the like . Joyning to it is a gallery very commodious for Medecinall things , it abounding with all curiosities of Nature , as forreign creatures , Stones , Mineralls , and whatsoever strange the farthest Indies produce . In generall , this City stands so opportunely , as few like for the receiving of all forreign Wares . In the midst thereof runnes the river Arno , from thence to its Embuschment navigable for very great Vessels , so that here is a place where the Duke builds his Gallies : On one side of the river , is a faire street cald Longarno , where is the great Dukes Palace , and before it the statue of Ferdinand the third ; On the other side is the Exchange , little , but of Marble , then which nothing more common in Italy . In a word , 't is prayse enough , to say t is the third City under the great Duke , who I thinke hath the fairest of what Prince soever . Having taken a satisfactory view hereof , we went on our way to Ligourne , whither there is an hourely convenience of a Coach to transport Merchandise from Ligorne to Pisa , the Duke hath made an artificiall Channell , of 15. miles long , which bares small boates like to Venetian Gondoloes . The Escluse of which Channell we saw at our setting forth out of Pisa , cover'd for 250. paces . The most part of the way to Ligorne is through Fennes , till one enters into the great Dukes Forrest , which continues to the towne . Ligorne the only maritimate place of importance , under the Great Duke , is situated in a plaine , at the board of the Mediterranean Sea , t is but little , yet the great concurse of Merchants which flow thither from all Nations , chiefly from my one , make it more spoken of than many Cities , of a larger extent . 'T is an innumerable summe of money the Duke receives yearly from this small Port : wherefore his Predecessors with him have omitted nothing to make it strong , witnesse the royall Bastions , and mote wherewith t is fenct ; The great Port where the Ships lay at Anchor , is defended by the Mole , and about hath many fanalls . The Darcina , where the Gallies ( then but six in number ) lay as quiet as in a Chamber , is most exquisitely well contriv'd : Before stands that best of moderne Statues , the Duke Ferdinand in Marble , and the Colosses of foure slaves under him , in brasse in divers Postures , so lively represented , that if the Statuary could have fram'd a voice as well as those bodies , he might have conquerd nature . Besides this piece , there are no more curiosities in this towne , yet many conveniences . The streets are generally large , the houses low , but uniforme , unlesse some which have been put out of order by an Earthquake , to which this place is often Subject . The great place is very beautifull , and fit for the assemblies of Merchants . On the houses round about and in the fairest streets , are pictur'd all the battels , and victories of the great Dukes gallies , obtained over the Turks , which a slave did to gaine his redemption . The Jewes which are here in great number , have the fairest Synagogue I ever yet saw , wherin on a saturday their Sabbaoth , we saw the manner of their divine ( if so I may call it ) service . Their priviledges here are more then ordinary , they wearing no marke of distinction as in other Townes , so that here the wealthier and richer sort are of that Sect. The Greeks likewise have a Congregation , and Church here . In a word , Ligorne is compacted of forreigners , yet the unwholsomenesse of the aire banisheth a great part from thence , which I by dangerous experience found true ; for the day before I was to depart for Florence , ( having all the while I stayed at Ligorne found a strange alteration of the aire , different both from that of England and France . ) I was ill dispos'd to sicknesse , however , not so much but that I adventur'd on my journey , which though with much difficulty I perfected . The first night we lay at Pisa , which way we had formerly past . The next morning we tooke Coach , ( a very unpleasant passage over hilly way ) and past first by S. Roman , a Convent of the Observantins standing on high , from whence is a pleasant prospect downe the valley , from thence we came to Empoly , a neat little towne where we lay , and the next day towards noone arrived at Florence . Which for its singular excellencies , amongst all other Cities of Italy , is cal'd {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} the Faire . Florence the Capitall of Toscany , and seat of the great Duke , is scituated at the bottome of very high hills , environ'd on all sides with the same , excepting towards the West side , before which lies a plaine Countrey , vulgo Pianura di Fiorenza . This City is divided in two by the river Arno , over which are built foure Bridges of stone , upon one of the two chief is the Goldsmiths street ; upon the other of very stately structure stand the foure quarters of the yeare in marble ; Opposite to this before the Trinity , stands a vast Columne , with a statue of Justice in Porphyre at the top , which , Cosmus the first great Duke rais'd as a Trophee in that place , because the newes there came to his eare of the taking of Siena . Hard by , is the Palazzo de Strozzi , no lesse to be admir'd for the immensity of its fabrick , then for its rude and unusuall Architecture . From hence towards the right hand is the Merchants Vault , supported with faire Pillars , and before it a brazen Boare jetting forth water ; Keeping right on , one comes into the great Place , in the midst thereof is the great Duke Cosmus , a horse-back in brasse , with this inscription under . Cosmo Medici Magno , Etruriae Duci Primo , Pio , Felici , Invicto , Justo , Clementi , Sacrae Militiae , Pacisque in Etruria Authori , Patri & Principi Optimo , Ferdinandus , F. Mag. Dux : Mag. Dux . III. erexit : An. M. DLXXXXIV . on each side of the Basis . Profligatis hostibus in deditionem acceptis Senensibus : Plenis liberis Sen: Fl. suffragiis Dux . Patriae renuntiatur . Behinde . Ob Zelam Religionis praecipuumque Justitiae studium . Betwixt this horse and the Palazzo vecchio , is a Fountaine , which all Italy cannot shew the like besides , round about the Laver is the family of Neptune in brasse , with his Colosse of Marble in the midst , bore up by foure horses ; The whole not possible to be equald , much lesse excel'd by humaine art . In this same Piazza , is a Porch archt and adorn'd with some statues , amongst which that of Judith , in brasse with that of the Rape of the Sabines , three Persons in severall Postures cut all out of one stone are most remarkable . Just against it is the Palazzo Vecchio , at the entrance stands two Colosses , the one of David , the other of Hercules trampling on Cacus , the first of Michael Angelo , which in my judgement comes short of the other , though he the more famous statuary . Within is a Court set about with Pillars of Corinthian worke ; Above is a very spacious Hall with divers Statues , and amongst them those of two Popes , Leo the tenth , and Clement the seventh , of the family of the Medicis ; the apertenants of this lodging are very great , and costly , but it being not so frequented as if the Court were kept there , every thing looseth its luster . Wherefore having speedily dispatcht the sight hereof ; that which requires a week to observe well , is at hand : I meane that richest of Treasures , the great Dukes Gallery . In the lower story sit the Courts of Justice , with an arcade to walk in on each side . Above are the shops of divers Artisans which work continually for the great Duke . In the uppermost part is contained as many wonders as things , Some to be admir'd for their preciousnesse and art , others for their rarity and Antiquity . On each side of the Gallerie are ranged Statues , to the number of fourescore and odde , of which for Antiquity I preferre the Idoll brought from the temple of Apollo , at Delphis , with this verse on the Pedistall . Vt potui huc veni Delphis & fratre relicto . As likewise that of Scipio Africanus , holding up his Gowne under his arme , according to Ciceros words . Nobis quidem olim annus erat unus ad cohibendum brachium toga constitutus , & ut exercitatione ludoque campestri , tunicati uteremur . After these I may reckon the two triumphant Pillars ; from whence they were taken I know not ; but their worke speaks them Roman . Over the statues hang the Pictures , some Prototypes of the most famous men of the moderne times , on the one side Schollars , on the other souldiers . At the right hand of this gallerie are severall stanzas full of curiosities , into which whosoever enters is astonisht at the quantity of wealth ; confus'd with the variety of things worth observation . In the first Roome we went into , stands the Tabernacle , or altar destinated for S. Laurence Chappell , no part thereof of common Marble ; but totally compacted with Jewells and Precious stones ; The value inestimable . In the next Chamber is a Table with Flowers , and Birds in their naturall colours of Precious stones , with a Cabinet priz'd at two hundred thousand Crownes , coverd with Agaths , Emerauds , Anamathists , &c. Within is the passion of our Saviour with the twelve Apostles all in Amber . In the third is a Cabinet with Calcidon Pillars , fild ( as they told us ) with ancient medailles of Gold ; round about this Roome is an infinite number of Naturall and artificiall curiosities , as the Nalle turn'd halfe into Gold by Alchymy , The Emperours head on a Turqu'oise bigger then a Walnut , with thousands more . Next is the Armory , wherein are the habits , and diverse sorts of armes of severall ages , and People ; amonst those , the King of China's habit , Hannibals Head-piece of Corinthian metall , Charlemain's Sword ; and an argument of the Italian Jealousie , an Invention to lock up female frailty . Here likewise is a Magnet which beares up fourescore pound weight of Iron . In the last Cabinet we saw the curious Turnity of Ivory , a Pillar of Orientall Alablaster , &c. and from thence wee went into the Gardrobe , where are twelve great Cubbards of silver Plate , a service all of pure Massie Gold ; A saddle which the Emperour gave in a present to the great Duke , all Embroyder'd with Pearles and Diamonds ; These , with many other Particularities of this gallerie , ( which might be a Theame copious enough to write a Volume on , ) declaring the wealth of this Prince equall with any Kings in Christendome . From the said gallery is a Corrider ; or private passage to the Palazzo de Pithi , on the other side of the river ; where the Duke keeps his Court ; The Front of this edifice is very majestique towards the Basis of Dorick work , in the midst of Ionick , in the uppermost story of Corinthian . In the Court is a Grotte with statues and a fountaine over it , yet that which is most wonderfull is the Loadstone of a most prodigious greatnesse . Neither are the gardens to be omitted , which for their largenesse have the face of a Forrest , for their variety of a Paradise . Here Cypres groves , there Walkes with statues , here a Sea of Fountaines , there Swans , Austriches , and other recreative Creatures . Being now on this side of the Arno , I will take notice of all I saw there before I returne to the other . And first there stands a Pillar , bearing on it the statue of Peter Martyr , in the same place where hee was beheaded . Next on the wall of S. Nicholas Church , above a mans reach are these veses , signifying an inundation of the River . ☞ Fluctibus undisonis similis pelagique procellis . Huc tumidis praeceps , irruit Arnus Aquis , Prostravitque suae spumanti gurgite Florae . Opida , Agros , Pontes , Mae●ia , Templa , Viros . M DL . Id sept. Going now back into the fuller body of the City , on the other side of the River ; on the banck there is a Marble , which I found of no great consequence , yet set by a Venetian Embassador as a Monument to a horse there buried , which had done him good service in the siege of the City . The Epitaph runs thus . Non ingratus Herus ( sonipes Memorande ) sepulchrum Hoc , tibi pro meritis , haec monumenta dedit . Least I should dwell too long amongst these earthly delights , wherewith Florence is fil'd , I will goe and meditate in the Churches ; and first in the Dome , which I conceive either for the exquisitenesse of the worke , or worth of so vast a Bulke of Red , Black , and white Marble , to be the fairest Cathedrall without , that ever man laid eyes on . It s better part is the Cupola , so high that the brasse Globe at the top , is capable of holding sixteen persons . No lesse wonderfull is the Steeple , which without exempt , will yield to no other in the world , composed of the same stone and materialls with the Church , but with more art and ornaments . Before the Dome is the Temple of Mars ; built in an Octogon ; now cald S. John , or the Baptistary . The foure gates of Brasse , vvhich Ortelius prefers before any else in the world , the broken Pillars of Porphyre , the pavement , the old Grecian Pieces at the top , are things to be noted . From hence wee went to see that mirrour of Art , and wonder of this present age , Saint Laurents Chappell , which is so glorious , that whosoever enters , will even imagine himselfe in some place above terrestriall . 'T is wholly overlaid with fine Pollisht stones , neither is any colour upon Earth , but it is there in stones naturally , all which I have been since told by diverse , ( an argument of the great riches included in the Bowells of Italy ) are dugg up within the great Dukes dominions . Round about this Chappell are all the scutions of the townes under the great Duke , in their proper Colours of stone . Above are Niches for the statues of the great Dukes . Beside them their Urnes . The intent of this whole sumptious Fabrick , being that it should successively serve for the Sepulcher of the great Dukes . Saint Laurents Church and Convent joyne to this , where the Library fild with Bookes , all in Manuscripts is not contemptible . Not farre from hence is Santa Maria Novella ; in the Court are two Marble Pyramids that stand on brasse Turtoises . Hard by is S. Maries Church belonging to the Jacobins , where on the North wall is the Tombe of Picus Mirandola , an eminent schollar , with this Epitaph . Joannes jacet hic Mirandola , caetera morunt . Et Tagus è Ganges forsan & Antipodes . In the same Church is Politianus his Tombe subscribed thus . Politianus in hoc tumulo jacet Angelus , unum Qui caput , & linguas , ( res nova ) tres habuit . From hence I went to the Anunciade , and saw in the way the Fountaine of the Centaure . The Anunciade is a place of great devotion , to a Madonna drawne by the hand of Saint Luke . In the Piazza before is the statue of the Duke Ferdinand the first ; on horseback in brasse , made by the same hand , with the former above mentioned , so that there is little difference betwixt them . Hard by are kept the Lions , and other wilde beasts ; and a little farther the Menage or Stables of the great Duke stord with Barbary and other excellent horses , and as I remember , I never saw better horse then at Florence . On the wall of the Cavalrizza is this Inscription . Franciscus Medices , Magnus Etruscor Dux 11. Quod Nobilissimorum Adolescentium , qui equestri splendore se ornari cupiunt . Imprimisque Joannis fratris commodo fiere● hunc in Equo se exercendi Locum extrui jussit , Rustico Picardino Equorum Magistro . M DLXXXVI . Next to these though much distance , Santa Croce deserves seeing . Before it is a faire spatious Court , in which ( it being Carnavall time while wee were at Florence ) we saw the play at Calce , with Cavalcades , shewes , and other assemblies of the Nobility . Within the Church is the tombe of that famous Statuary , Picturer , and Architecture , Michael Angelo , made by his owne hand ; Over his Urne stand those three arts , hee was so renowned for with their instruments broken , bewailing the losse of their Patron underneath this Inscription . Michaeli Angelo Bonerotio Evetusta Simoniorū familia . Sculptori , Pictori , Architecto . Fama Omnibus notissimo . Leonardus Patruo amantiss : & de se optime meritro , Translatis Roma ejus ossibus , atque in hoc templo Major suorum Sepulchro conditis , cohortante Serenissimo Med : Magno Hetruriae Duce . P. 6. An. Sal : M DLXX. Vixit . ann. LXXXVIII . M. XI . D. XV . To conclude my description of Florence , the houses are high built , the streets pav'd with great stones , even and long , many Fountaines , and other publick ornaments , declaring the magnificence of the great Dukes . For eight mile round about the City there seemes another Florence , so full are the fields speckled with Country seats . Neither are those delights to private men alone , but there are likewise publike walkes , witnesse that of Pines two mile long : that of Cypresses leading to Poggio Imperiale , and many more . Two miles up into the Northerne Mountaines lies the old Fesuli , often spoke of amongst the ancient Writers , but now a poore Village , not having so much as the remnants of Antiquity . In fine , there is no Province in Italy more furnish't with delightfull , and well peopled Cities ; then that of the great Duke , whose Ancestours having united the States of three Common-wealths together , to wit , Of Pisa , Florence , and Siena , doth now entirely possesse all Toscany ; the nobler part of Italy . The wife of this present Great Duke , Ferdinand the second of that name , comes from the Duke of Vrbin , of the family of Rovori . The Revenues of this Prince of Toscany exceeed yearly ten hundred thousand Crownes , which will amount to a hundred thousand pound English , his ordinary guard is of Cavalry , and Infantry , with Germans very well equipag'd . The Florentins have commonly notable head pieces , so that from hence spring notable Polititians , and States-men Machevil was of them , and 't is said that three Embassadours from severall Kings , meeting accidentally on the way , prov'd in the conclusion to be all Florentins . So soone as we had fill'd our selves with the sight of those many singularities , that are in and about Florence , wee set forward for Siena . Going out of Florence , at the Porta Romana , one leaves Poggio Imperiale a Villa of the great Dukes , which I had omitted above . At the entrance of the walkes of Cypres , that leads to it are the statues of the Tybre and Arno ; those of the famous old and new Poets , Virgil , Ovid , Petrarche , and Dante . The house swarmes with rarities , chiefly with excellent Pictures , amongst them all the line of Austria , this great Dukes mother , who built this house , being sister to the Emperour . After wee had past by that , wee lay that night at a little Bourg call'd Santo Cassiano . The next morning wee rode through a Village Barbarino , from whence the mighty stirring family of the Cardinalls tooke their originall . Wee din'd at Poggio Bonci , a place noted for the perfumd Tobacco compos'd there ; which the Italians through custome take in powder , as profusely , as we in England doe in the pipe . From hence in the afternoone we arriv'd at Siena . Siena formerly a free State of it self , now subject to the Duke of Florence , stands aloft covering the back of a hill ; so that in the hottest time of the yeare , this City is still refresht by coole gailes of winde ; The ayre is very wholsome , much agreeing with the constitution of strangers , the Inhabitants very curteous , a great deale suiting to the humours of forreigners , and besides the purity of the Italian Language , is here profest , and spoken ; these and the like conveniences make it much frequented by Travellers , and indeed mov'd us to settle our selves there , for some Moneths . Here wee stayd not to see the rarities of the Place , which are not many in number ; but to get some knowledge and practise in the Vulgar Tongue , however Siena deserves a better description then my pen can afford it ; for neatnesse and gentility , yielding to no other in Italy . At the entrance of the Porta Camulia , or di Fiorenza , onely the higher buildings are in view ; but out of the Porta Romans , the City seemes to raise it selfe with a great deale of Majesty ; chiefly because of the many Towers it hath , which during the time of its Liberty , were rais'd in honour of such and such men as had done any worthy service for the Common-wealth , amongst these Towers which stand yet as signes of its formerly possest Freedome ; that of Mangio surpasseth for height , which though its foundations be in the Bottome of the Piazza , yet outtops all the City besides , It serves now for the Clock-house ; From above is a faire prospect even to the confines of Toscany , below at the foot of this hidious Structure , is a Chappell of Marble , where on set dayes Masse is said to the People in publick . To this joynes the Senate house , built by the Goths , as some conceive by the manner of the Architecture . At one end thereof stands a Pillar , bearing Romulus and Remus sucking the Wolfe , in brasse , which are the Armes of Siena , an infallible argument of its Antiquity , and certainly dirived from the Romans , of whom this City was a Colony . There are frequently more of the like pillars about the Town upon one more decayed , then the rest is ingraved-Memores Huberum , old , very old Latine . As for the Piazza , which lies in the heart of the City , I cannot fancie a more pleasing or commodious Place ; t is of a large Compasse , resembling ( whether naturally so , or artificially made so I know not ) the fashion of a Cockle shell , in the midst is a Marble Fountaine of curious worke , wherein out of the Wolves mouthes comes water . This place is pav'd with the same materiall as all the streets of the City are , to wit , Brick ; so that here and indeed throughout all Siena , in the fowlest weather one may walke as cleane as within dores . The houses are for the most part Brick , built alla Moderna , the chiefest is that of the Pope , and the Arch bishops , who is of the family of the Picolominys . In the Strada larga lives the Prince Matthias , the Duke of Florence's Brother , a man very courteous to strangers . Close by his Palace is the Dome , or Cathedrall Church of Sienna , which though in comparison of others in Italy is but small , yet for the great travell and expence which it must needs have cost , t is inferiour to none , t is both without and within of Black and white Marble ; The Facade is admirable , garnisht with statues ; About the inside are the heads of all the Popes ; The Pulpet is an unparalelld piece , beset with figures of Marble . But that singularity which this Temple boasts of above all others , is the pavement , whereon many parts of the sacred history are so lively represented in severall colours of Marble , as no pensill can come neere it , though many Masters take patterne from those stones . Going up to the high Altar , at the left hand is the Library , painted by Raphel d' Vrbino ; On the same side is a Chappell , wherein is kept the arme of S. John Baptist , which ( as an Inscription there manifesteth ) was given to a Pope by the King of Peloponesus . Opposite to the Dome is the Hospitall , whither all Pilgrimmes in their passage to Rome , may come and take two or three meales gratis . In the Chappell lyes the body of their founder B. Susorius , as yet uncorrupted though nine hundred yeares since he dyed . Going downe the Hill , from the Hospitall , one comes to the Ponte Brande , which is a reservitoire of Fish , not so much for the publick use , as delight , or pastime . Hard by is the House where Santa Catharina of Siena liv'd , which , though a place of speciall devotion , yet not so frequented as the Madonna di Provenzana . From hence going up the hill , by the Dominicans one sees the Fortification , the onely defence of the City , and there by the Cavalrizza , whither in the sommer all the Gentry retire a Spasso . The walls of Siena are of an exceeding compasse , yet but slight , coverd with Caper trees ; that fruit growing best in that Soyle , to wit , Morter . The Country about Sienna , principally towards the Maremmas or Marshes , is filld with all sorts of great Chase , so that wilde Boare , and other venison in its season is sold in the Butchers shops , as commonly as other flesh . In a word , I found Sienna the most commodious place a stranger could pick out to live retiredly , and make his time beneficiall . Where after two moneths stay , having made some little progresse in the language , the time of Easter occasionly urging , together with good company , and the holy week , we set on for Rome . About ten miles from Siena one goeth over a Bridge , whereupon is the Prince Matthias his armes with this Inscription . Viator securus incede . Vt expedita tibi ad Vrbem per Hertruriam pateret via , triplicem , fluvium Assum , Vmbronem , Vrcium , triplici poute subegit Matthias Seress : Hetruriae princeps , Publicae securitatis vindex , invictus heros , nec ipsam aquarum licentiam errare patitur sine jugo . Afterwards we past through Buon Convento , where the Emperour Henry the seventh dy'd by poyson , given him in the Eucharist . Din'd at Tornieri , In the afternoone past a faire Bridge , leaving at the right Mont Alcino , ( auciently Mons Ilicinus ) noted for the Muscatello , it produceth , past through San Querico ; Lay at the next Post . The next day about twelve miles from Santo Querico wee past by Radicofany ; the last Fortification of the great Dukes Dominions situated on a steep rocky mountaine , beneath it is the Bourg : and a little lower one of the greatest Hosteries or Innes in the way to Rome . That very high Mountaine which the vallie parts from that of Radicofany , now cal'd Montamiata , was Tuniatus mentiond by Cato and Antonius . From Radicofany we went to Centino , din'd there in the confines of Toscany . In the afternoone went over a faire bridge of Brick , built by Gregory the thirteenth ; Upon it a Marble speaketh thus . Omnia dic laeto eveniant & Fausta Viator Gregorio , tutum qui tibi reddit iter . Here begins the Stato della Chiesa , or Patrimony of Saint Peter : A mile farther is Aquapendente , of which all the memoriall I could gather ( wee onely passing through it ) is a very ingenuous direction under the signe of the Post-house , it runs thus . L'insegna della Posta , e posta a posta In questa posta , fin che habbia a sua Posta . Ogn ' un cavallo a Vetturi in posta . From hence the way continues very even , till one comes to a rude and stony descent ; downe into a valley , from the top of which is a most pleasant prospect , on the Lake of Bolsena , thirty miles in circuit ; in the midst thereof are two little Ilands ; In the one is a Convent of Capuchins , where those of the family of the Farnese are interd , the other not inhabited unlesse by Fishermen . At the side of the Lake stands Bolsena , on the ruines of the ancient Vulsinium , famous in the Romans time . Some monuments of its former glory , yet stand chiefly in the Court of Santa Christiana's Church , as an Ancient Urne , having Lions heads , Cornucopias , Satyres , Furies , pieces of such art as now the world cannot imitate , besides this , there is a heathnish altar of Ophit stone , frequent pieces of Diaspre Pillars ; from hence wee may gather that the Volsinienses , were once splendid though now buried in their dust . Distant from Bolsena seven miles is Monte Fiascone , in which way one passeth through a grove , wherein the ancients celebrated many Sacrifices to Juno . Monte Fiascone was formerly the head of the Falisci , a renowned people in old writers . 'T is now spoken of for the delicious Wine , of which there is a common story , that a German Bishop having heard much commendations of the wine of that place , sent his servant beforehand to trye for the best at all the tavernes in the Towne , giving him in charge , that where he found the best hee should write over the dore Est , Est ; which he did , and having tasted , the Master approv'd his choyce , but in fine , he so filld his body with wine , that hee left no roome for his Soule ; for he suddenly dyed , and was buried in Faviono's Church , his servant bewailing his losse ; caus'd this witty Epitaph to be put upon his Tombe stone . Propter Est Est , Dominus meus mortuus . Est . Leaving Monte Fiascone , one goes downe into a plaine , wherein about two mile from Viterbo , on the right hand is a Sulphureous Fountaine , the water perpetually boiling . At the entrance into Viterbo is this Verse . Vrbs Antiqua potens armis ac Vbere glebae . In the Palace is this . Osiridis victoriam in Gigantes Litteris Historiographicis , in hoc antiquissimo Marmore Inscriptam , ex Herculis olim uunc Divi Laurentii Templo translatam , ad conservan : Vetustiss : Patriae monumenta , atque decora hic locandam statuit . SPQV . Sum Osiris Rex . Qui ab Italis in Gigantes exercitus Veni , Vidi , & Vici . Sum Osiris Rex . Qui terrarum pacato Italiam decem annos incolni , docens quorum inventor fui . The publick Fountaines at Viterbo are very Remarkable . Without Viterbo are two wayes for Rome , the old which the Pope in the last difference with the Duke of Parma , charg'd none should passe ; the new by Capranica ; wee desirous to see the famous Palace of Capraroules , belonging to the aforesaid Duke of the family of the Farnese , tooke the old way , which though lesse usuall , yet gives more satisfaction by the sight of that magnificent Fabrick . 'T is built in a Heptagon , or seven corners , before it is a Kingly Court , within , the Staire Case , In the Garden the Cataracts of water , are very admirable : But that for wch this place is most spoken of , is the Sellar , which besides the amplenesse thereof , is as well stord with wine of all sorts , the Duke allowing to all strangers that come to see his house , two , or three glasses of fresh liquor . Hence , though late at night , we departed , and strooke again into the Via nuova , at Monterose where we lay ; From Monterose to Rome , are twenty Italian miles , all which Countrey the Veientes anciently possest , a people that much hindered the growth of the Roman Empire , of which take Florus . Hoc tunc Veientes fuere : nunc fuisse quis meminit ? quae reliquiae ? quodve vestigium ? laborat annalium fides ut Veios fuisse credamus . So that if in Florus his time , the memory of the Veientes was so extirpated , what signes or remnants of them can we expect in this age . Six mile beyond Monterose , upon the Via Cassia , stands Baccano , and hard by , the Lake for bignesse not much exceeding a Pond ; yet noted for that memorable slaughter of the three hundred Fabii , which the Veientes hereabouts cut off in one day . There being but one child left at home , who afterwards restord his family , often serviceable to the Common-wealth . After Baccano , there is a passage through a wood ( Maesia anciently ) where heretofore a passenger could hardly scape robbing , but of late yeares the trees being cut downe t is free from danger . At the end thereof from the hill , one may discerne that Mistris of the World Rome . Which before I enter , I cannot but premeditate on Saint Hieromes three wishes , which were , to have seen our Saviour in the flesh , to have heard Saint Paul preach , and to have seen Rome in its glory ; which last , if ranged amongst the two former by so learned a Father , it must needs be one of the happiest sights mortall eye could attaine to . I must confesse the fame of Rome , which hath spread it selfe even to the most remote parts of the earth ; together with the small intelligence I had in those histories , that declare the greatnesse of that universall Monarchy , made my Idea of Rome to exceed that of all the world besides ; yet again when I conceived , how all humane things are by succession of time subject to change ; how at the fall of the Roman Empire this City was pillag'd by the Barbarous , how through the insatiable fury of Nero , the fire devour'd it , I imagind some lower fancy of Rome . But in the conclusion , having had a full ocular view thereof , I found that it flourisheth beyond all expectation , this New even emulous to exceed the old , the remnants of the old adding to the splendour of the new , both speaking it — Roma triumphati Caput Orbis . 'T is so ample a Theame , that I grow almost confounded in going about to describe it , and indeed no man will take that taske upon him , that hath seen the diversity of Bookes , and Impressions there are onely of the things of Note at Rome . One Volume of the Antiquities ; Another of the Pallaces ; a third of the Churches , a fourth of the Gardens ; a fifth of the Statues ; a sixth of the Fountaines ; a seventh of the Villas ; In a word , the Presse is burdened with nothing more then discriptions of Rome . Wherefore I will briefly passe over what I saw , leaving the narration of each particular , To the Itinerario d' Italia ; and the Roma Antica , and the Roma Moderna . About foure miles from Rome , in the way that leads to Porta Del Popolo is Nero's Tombe , which because of the honour I owe not to the person the Tyrant , but to the Antiquity I will here put down having never seen it in Print . Neros Tombe DMS KARISSIMA This Sepulcher is of solid Marble , on it are engraven Dragons , Fame , &c. The Inscription is hardly legible , onely I could pick out Karissima with a K. Within a mile and a halfe of Rome , we past the Tybre on the Mole , anciently Pons Milvins , where ( besides the many noble exploits performed there by heathens . ) Constantine the first Christian Emperour saw miraculously the signe of the Crosse , with the Motto , In hoc signo vinces . After we were gone over that Bridge , wee came upon a very broad pav'd way , The Via Flaminia , which Flaminius in his Consulship continued sixtie miles , from Rome to Ariminum . At the entrance into Rome , at Porta del Popolo , is a lofty Pyramid coverd with Egyptian Hyeroglyfiques , which was heretofore dedicated to the Sunne , and stood in the Circus Maximus , but was thence transfer'd , and placd here by Sintus , V. as the inscriptions underneath manifest * . Hee that would see Rome may doe it in a fortnight , walking about from Morning to Evening , he that would make it his study to understand it , can hardly perfect it in lesse then a yeare . A man may spend many Moneths at Rome , and yet have something of Note to see every day . The first day we walkt to the Villa of Prince Ludovisio , which stands on the same Soyle , where that renowned one of Salust anciently stood , as one may collect from the broken Guglia , one and twenty paces in length , which was rais'd in his Hippodromus . The principall rarities in this Kingly place , are the tyr'd gladiator , Marc Aurelius , his head of Brasse that stood in the Capitol ; The Oracles head of Porphyre with the mouth open , whereby the Priests spake , those for old ; Among the new , the man Petrified which the Emperour sent to the Pope . A Bedstead built all of precious stones , to the valew of 80000. Crownes . A bed ( as a worthy Knight then in our Company said ) fit to get none but an Alexander the great upon . In the garden are two ancient Tombes , and sixteen round Vessells of stone , wherein the ancient Romans were wont to keep their Oyle . The same day in returning to our Lodging , wee saw many Antiquities , Passing by Alta Se mita , or Mons Quirinalis by the foure Fountaines , which Lepidus brought , we came by Monte de Cavallo , which takes its denomination from the two Colosses of Alexander , menaging his horse Bucephalus , made in emulation by the two famous Sculptures , Phidias and Praxiteles . The horse at the left hand of Alexander hath under it Opus Phidiae , that on the right , Opus Praxitelis . Constantin the great had these transported out of Greece , and plac't in his baths which were adjoyning , as the * inscriptians underneath witnesse . Afterwards wee past by the reliques of Antoninus his Basilica , and saw * his and Trajans triumphant Pillar , the two most wonderfull pieces of Rome . The first which M. Aurelius Antoninus dedicated to his father Antonius Pius , is 175. foot in height , and now consecrated to Saint Paul , whose statue of Brasse guilded it bears on the top , that of Trajan which ( as the vast letters on the Pedistall lately discoverd declare ) was rais'd in honour of him by the Senate , after his death , returning from the Dacian warres , is a hundred twenty eight foot high from the Basis whereon it stands . On both these two Ensignes of the Roman glory , are in Mezzo levato , all the adventures and battailes of those two worthy Heros . The last of these Saint Peter now patroniseth , whose statue of Brasse is upon the Head . On Palme Sunday we walkt to Monte Cavallo , a most sumptuous Palace of his S. to see the distribution of Palmes , and Olive branches to the Cardinalls , with other Ceremonies of that day . From thence we made a circuit through a part of old Rome , and saw first the Colosseo , or * Amphitheatre which Martiall prefers before the seven wonders of the world , with Omnis Caesareo cedat labor Amphitheatro . This stupenduous Fabrick , which that Poet through flattery attributes to Domitian , was began by Vespasian , and finished by Titus his sonne . A great part stands entire to this day , the rest ( which I much merveile at ) was demolisht for to build two eminent Pallaces , that of the Farnesi and the Cancellario . On one side of it is a ruine of the * Meta Sudans , from whence sprang water , wherewith the Spectatours ref●esht themselves . Hard by is the a Arche Triumphall of Constantin the great , rais'd in honour of him for his victory over Maxentius the Tyrant , at Pons Milvius , as the inscription on both sides declares . In the Passage through on the one side is ingraven Liberatori Vrbis , on the other Fundatori Quietis . From this the via Appia began . Opposite to this , is the b Arch of Titus Vespasian , erected to him for his prise of Jerusalem ; In the work of this Arche is observd him riding in triumph , drawne in a Charriot by foure horses ; on the contrary side , the Golden Candlestick , The tables of the Law , the Arca Faederis , and many other Spoiles taken out of the temple of Solomon . Having gaz'd a little on these Marbles , which speak Roman History more palpably then any Author , we returnd homewards by Saint John Latran , saw the * Obelisque , which with that before mentioned of the Madonna del populo , stood in the Circus Maximus , this is held to be the biggest of one stone ( to wit , Ophit vulgarly granito , of which sort all the Pyramids here are ) that ever came into Rome , there being a great ship made purposely for the Carriage . It was transported by Constantin from Alexandria to Constantinople , by his sonne Constantius , from thence to Rome . In Egypt it servd for a Monument to the King Ramusis , from which particulars one may gather that it hath above two thousand yeares , and yet by the preservation of Sixtus V. who plac't it here , it stands yet entire with Egyptian Characters upon it . The Church of Saint John Latran , so cald from a Pallace of the Laterani , which stood there upon the Mons Caelius , is the Mother of all Churches , not for the Fabrick but Antiquity ; t was founded by Constantin ; it would be too long a Subject to speak of all the particulars , I will onely name the chiefe , leaving the rest to the Prints in Italy . At one end of the Porch , is the statue of Henry the fourth of France , who gave large revenues to the Church . At the high Altar the Pillars of Brasse are very glorious . Amongst the many sacred curiosities reserv'd here ; first the Tombe of Helen , Mother to Constantin the Great , foure pillars bearing a stone , which shew the measure of our Saviours height , the table whereon the Souldiers cast Lots . Two Pillars of the vaile of the Temple wrent , The Pillar whereon the Cock crew , &c. Without S. John Lat: On the one side is a little Rotunda , coverd with Lead , wherein is the Font , or Baptistarie of Constantin , with the fairest Pillars of Porphyre in Rome . On the other is the * Scala Santa , containing 28. staires , that stood in Pilats house at Hierusalem , whereon our Saviour went and returnd whilst he was in his Agony , sweating bloud . The Scala Sancta . Above is the Sancta Sanctorum , and over it this verse . Non est in toto sanctior Orbe locus . 'T is credited that Helene sent them to Rome , with many other things of the holy Land . The Popes Pallace of Saint John Latran , although not inhabited , yet is no lesse majestick then the others , wherein his S. keeps his Court . Having seen all the things of note , within and about Saint John Lat: we took in our way homeward * Saint Mary Maggior one of the seven Churches ; and for beauty the second in Rome ; The two emulous Chappells of Paulus quintus , and Sixtus V. for the variety and preciousnesse of the stone , imitating the famous San Lorenzo of Florence . Before the great Dore of this Church is a high a Columne , taken out of the Temple of Peace , t was set up and dedicated to the Virgin ( whose statue is on the top ) by Paulus V wherefore it stands perpendicularly on foure brasse Coquatrises , the armes of the Borghesi , out of which family came Paulus quintus . On the other side of Santa Maria Maggiore is a Pyramid not so large as the others translated thither from the Mausoleum of Augustus . In the afternoone wee saw little , onely tooke a slight view of the Campo Vaccino , fild with Antiquities ; another day in the morning , we went to the Vatican ; In the way is Pons Elius , now Del Castello Santo Angelo , so cald from the Castle of S. Angelo by it , which was anciently * Moles Adriani . 'T was built by Adrian the Emperour , as a Sepulcher for him and his Successours ; and in regard it stands yet so firme and entire , t is reductiuto the forme of a * Fortresse , wherein are kept the three millions of Gold , which money may bee employd on no use , unlesse to defend the State Apostolique , in point of armes . From hence looking into the Tyber , one may discerne some ruines of the ( a ) triumphant Bridge , yet so little are the remnants thereof , that t is hard to judge it to have been so glorious as it was , however , t is said the Jewes offerd his S. fiftteen thousand Crownes , that they might turne the course of the Tybre for some Moneths , and have all they could find about this Bridge , In which I believe the Jewes would not have been loosers , it being the custome of the ancient Romans , when they past over the Tybre in triumph , to fling in a part of their spoiles taken from their enemies , yet his S. would not assent thereunto , least the turning of the river might prove prejudiciall to the City . From the Castello Santo Angelo is a Corridor that goes unto the Vatican , the Popes winter Pallace , to which joynes Saint Peters . Before these two prime structures of new Rome ; is a wide Court , in the midst whereof is an Esguile or * Pyramid bore upon foure Lions of Brasse , which heretofore stood in Nero's Cirque , and was Dedicated to Julius Caesar , whose ashes were conserv'd at the top , where now the Crosse triumpheth . This Pyramid beareth no Hierogly fixes as the others , but is more firme and to sight newer . In the some Court is a Fountaine , from whence flowes a streame of water , and indeed throughout all Rome no street wants a publick Fountaine ; wherefore , because they are so common I omit them . * Saint Peters Church , as Erasmus said of that at Canterbury , — Tanta sese Majestate in coelum erigit , ut etiam procul in tuentibus , Religionem incutiat . In a word , t is the most perfect modell of decent Magnificence in the world , there being an answerable Uniformity both within and without . The Frontis piece is glorious with the Colosses of Christ , and the twelve Apostles , the Porch it selfe is ample enough to bee a Temple ; Entring into the Church one admires the work of the top , which is all of squares , Levati as they call it , after the same manner with the Pantheon . In the Cupola is represented the Coelestiall Hierarchy in pieces of Mosaick , so well that to all Beholders they seeme painted ; In the Center of the Church stands the great * Altar , the most singular piece both for the materiall and art that ever humane hand produc't , t is all of solid Brasse , taken from the covering of the Rotunda , and afterwards melted into so stupenduous Pillars , each one whereof weighes five and twenty thousand pounds , besides other diversity of Overages , the whole so unpareld a worke , that t is fit to stand in no Cathedrall , unlesse S. Peters . * The Vatican Pallace is such a Sea of lodgings , that t is said three Kings may at the same time have roome enough for themselves and followers . In these large buildings are containd so many worthy Rarities , as the whole world affords not the like ; witnesse first that most famous Library of Christendom ; The Vatican , wherin severall stanzas , or Centuries are most choise Bookes , as well Manuscripts as Prints . At the entranee into the Bibliotheque , are the two ancient statues of Hippolitus and Aristides ; round about upon the walls , are pictur'd the generall Counsells . Amongst other rare Manuscripts , which are to bee seen here , as Virgils , Terence , and many Roman Authors , written with their owne hands , there are likewise ( though of later Date ) King Harry the eights Letters to Anne of Bulloyne , some in French , some in English ; those beginning commonly with My Darling , or a lascivious expression , together with his Booke against Luther , which procurd him the Title of Defender of the Faith , and at the end these two verses written with his own hand . Anglorum Rex Henricus Leo Decime mittit Hoc opus , & Fidei testem & amicitiae . In the Opposite Stanza is the Palsgraves Library , taken at Auspurg , and sent afterwards as a present to his S. Here also is kept the true draught of Mahomets cheast . On the wall are picturd the machins , and inventions us'd in raising the Pyramid before Saint Peters with these verses . Saxa agit Amphion Thebana ut Maenia condat Sixtus & inmensae ponera Molis agit . Many other singularities are there in this Library , from whence passing through the Conclave , we went downe into the armory , which standing underneath , doth as it were support the Library , wherefore the Motto over the Dore is Vrbanus VIII . Litteris arma , Armis litteras . The Sword must uphold the pen , the pen the Sword . There are armes , and all accomplishments for five and thirty thousand Men , Horse and foot . Next to these , passing through a long gallerie , where the Maps of the Provinces of old and new Italy are printed at large , we came into Belvedere so cald , because from thence one hath most parr of Rome in view ; There are five gardens , some in Terrace , others low , in that of Belvedere , stands that vast Pine Apple of Mettall , which stood on the top of Moles Adriani , with two Peacocks of the same materiall which stood on Scipio's Tombe ; The other gardens are fild with groves of Orange trees , and admirable Fountaines , amongst which the artificiall Ship is most dilectable . In the last garden in Niches , shut up are the best and most ancient statues of Rome , as that of * Laocoon and his two sonnes , all of one Marble ; The Cleopatra , the Niobe , the Romulus and Remus sucking the Wolfe ; The Nilus , The Tybre , all famous pieces ; the first to wit , Loacoon was found in the seven halls of Titus . In the Vatican hall ( the walls of which are of Marble ) is pictur'd the Massacre of France , under one side Coligni & Sociorum caedes , on the other Rex Coligni necem probat . In the Vatican Chappell we saw the judgement designd by Michael Angelo , a piece which cannot be valued for its excellency . After we had seen all the appartements of this vast house , returning homeward , we stept into Santa Maria de Cavalli Scossi , where there is the stone on which Abraham offerd Isaack , and another whereon our Saviour was circumcis'd , with this which ad libitum credas . Hic lapis est in quem Natum templo obtulit olim More Hebraeorum Virgo Maria suum . In the next Church the Pillars are reserv'd in wodden cases , which Saint Peter and Saint Paul were tyde too , and whip't . In the afternoone wee walkt to the Emperour Justinians gardens , and going out by Porto del Popolo , just against the Pyramid upon the wall , I espide this sentence , which intimates the inundation of the Tybre above the height of a man . ☞ Notas Quirite hic Imprime hic Tybris fui . The gardens of Justinian are not so full of delights , as throng'd with Antiquities , which are for the most part Urnes of stone , amongst which is Minu●ius Felix his ; Here is besides the Emperour Justinians Colosse , and the seventh of the termini or lapides that stood on the Via Appia , the first is in the Capitoll and none else to be found . There is a Volume out in print onely about this garden From thence we went to the Villa Borghese Which without exempt may for all excellencies bee preferr'd before any other about Rome or in Italy ; Before we came into the Parke , wee past through a little house , where the artificiall raine : with the diversity of waterworks , by putting on severall heads , on the same fountaine is very ingenuous . The gardens and Parke want nothing which should make a man conceive himselfe in Paradise . Groves of Laurells , Pines , Cypresses , ●ame Haires , Deares , Peacocks , Swans , Feasants , and all recreations the world can afford . In the gardens the foure Sphinxes of ancient stone are to be noted . The outside of the house is adornd with foure Frontispieces of ancient Sculptures , in Basso Relievo , amongst which , Curtius falling into the Vorago , Europa beard away on a Bull , Leda suckt by a Swan are most exquisite ; Within the house the Hall beset with Pillars of Porphyre , and other precious stone , Seneca bleeding to death of Jet ; The great Diana that Pompey worshipt of Orientall Marble , The Gladiatour menacing the heavens , The Hermophrodite on the bed , and for new pieces the Daphny and David . Another day , in the morning we lookt , into the Palazzo Borghese , hard by our lodgeing , which is one of the greatest , and most royall about Rome ; In the Court the Rowes of Marble Pillars and the Arcades , are very magnificent , Here about where this Pallace stands , was the Campus Martius . From thence we went to the Palazzo Farnese , but in the way wee tooke a full view of the Rotunda , or * Pantheon , the most absolute entire Antiquity in all Rome , which was built by Marc. Agrippa , and dedicated to all the Gods , and is now to the Virgin and all the Saints . There was an Ascent into the Pantheon in the ancient times , but now one goes downe into it , ( from whence I collect how the ruines of old Rome lay buried in the earth ; besides , if there be any digging for to lay the foundations of a house in Rome , they still finde pieces of statues , heads of Pillars , and the like ) yet for height it wants nothing of its first , and indeed to this day it seemes rather the worke of Giants , then common men . So vast are the thirteen Columns in the Porch , so stupenduous the Moles within , representing the world with its orbicular forme . In the Porch is an ancient Sculpture of the primitive Christians , with this Inscripon , which because t is not in the Prints I will not omit . Auspiciis Eminentiss : Principis Julii Mazarini Romani , S. R. E. Cardinalis hanc arcam Marmoream Veteris ac Novi Testamenti figuris caelatam tanquam nascentis Ecclesiae adversus Iconomicos Testimonium . Franciscus Gualdus Arimin : Eques Sancti Stephani tenebris in lucem . Anno MDCXIVI . Huc transferri ac veluti Trophaeum erigi curavit . From the Pantheon we went directly to the Palazzo Farnese , which glorious fabrick was rais'd out of the ruines of the Amphitheatre ; for the commendations of the Architecture , t is enough to say Michael Angelo had a chiefe part therein . Before it are two of the fairest Fountaines about Rome . In the Court the Hercules , and the Flora , are very noted Statues . But that which surpasseth all Statues , not only here , but in all Rome ( and if in Rome surely in all the world ) is the * Tauro Farnese ; A Bull with a dog and five persons , every one bigger then the Naturall cut to wonder out of one stone , the worke of Apollonius and Tauriscus of Rhodes , from whence it was conducted and plac't in Antoninus his bathes , where it was dug up a hundred yeares since , as Intire as if made but vesterday ; and now stands in this pallace astonishing all that behold it . In the afternoone wee went to the Antiquities of the * Capitol ; At the foot of the staires , are two Lions of Ancient stone , wch stood before the Rotunda , at the head , the statues of Castor and Pollux holding their horses ; The Trophees of Marius , The Primus Lapis , with a Ball of Brasse on the top ; In the midst of the place is the Marcus Aurelius on horseback , of Brasse , and underneath the Marforius , which because of the Posture , Combente , as those of rivers use to be , t is suppos'd was made for the Rhene ; Under the staires of the Senate house , is a Fountaine with the statue of Rome in red of Porphyre , having on the sides the Tigris , and the Tybre . At the right hand , as one comes on the Capitall hill is the Conservatorio , so cald because most of the precious Antiquities are kept there ; As one goes in , are the statues of Julius and Augustus Caesar , the * Columna Rostrata with an Inscription of very old Latine ; not grammaticall with ours , scarce the same Dialect . C. Duilius exemet leciones . Macistratos . Castreis exfocient : Pugnandod . Cepet enque Navebos . marid . Consol Primos ornavet . Navebos Classeis Paenicus sumas Cartaciniensis . Dictatored . Altod. Socieis Triresmos , Naveis , Captom . numei . Navaled . Praedad Poplo . In the Court is the hand and head of Commodus , his Colosse in Brasse , The foot and head of the Colosse of Apollo , of a most stupenduous vastnesse . A Pila , with the ravishing of the Sabins in Relievo , with Severus , and Mamea upon it . In the little Court going up the staires are foure admirable pieces of Basso Relievo of Aurelius his triumph . At the top of the staires the old Statue of Marius , a Table of Brasse with the old Lawes , in a gallerie hard by are the names of the Old and New Consuls . The names of the Consuls when I was at Rome were these . Primo Januarii : MDCXLVII . Petrus Prignanus . Julius Gironus . Vincentius Baccellia . Coss . Benedictus Masseius . Within the Hall , and other Roomes of the Capitoll , are most worthy statues , both new and old , for New those of severall Popes , for old those of Cicero ; Virgil ; The Hercules of Mettall , with the Lupus Fulmine tactus , and a hundred more things worth observation . Upon this same Mons Capitolinus , is a Church cald Ara Celi , which stands on the same ground where the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus stood . The next day in the morning wee went to the Palazzo Barberino , which I cannot say to bee inferiour or superiour to the others of Rome , for indeed the Pallaces of Rome are so excellent , that they will admit of no comparison amongst themselves , for in what one comes short of another in one particular , it outgoes it in some thing else . The Palazzo Barberino is alwayes to bee reckond amongst the chiefe , whither for the Structure , or for the Rarities . In the Court lies a broken Pyramid . In the Galleries are admirable statues , and amongst them the old , old Egyptian Idoll Osiris , of a black strange stone , the forme of it because I never saw it printed , I will not omit . OSIRIS In Aed. Card. Barb. Osiris implies the figure of an Oxe , yet blind Antiquity attributed any strange shape to that Liety . From this pallace wee went up to the Via Pia , The first thing of note wee saw , was a Round Chappell , one of the Torrions of * Dioclesians Bathes which are hard by , with vast Columnes and Fragments of Marble . After that we stept into Santa Maria della Vittoria , where the Ensignes hang which were taken in Germany , to wit , the Crosse Keyes and the Miter , with the motto Exterpentur . Against this Church stands the famous Fountaine of the great Moyses striking the Rock , out of which gusheth water ; The two Lions on each side were brought from before the Rotunda . The Popes granaryes are hard by . From thence we went to the Villa Montalto on the Viminal , saw the Water workes , the Citron trees in great number , with thousand rarities . In returning , wee saw the Church from whence the Arrians were expeld , together with the Villa Aldobrandina . In the afternoone wee walkt amongst the Antiquities , and saw the Rupis Tarpeia , the Temple of * Janus Quadrifrons , a solid square of Marble , with foure gates which represented the foure quarters of the yeare , or foure parts of the world . About it are many Nichi , wherein stood the statues of the Moneths , as some suppose . The place where this Temple is , was anciently calld Velabrum , or Forum Boarium , as the Arco Boario there standing by Saint Georges Church testifieth . Hard by on the mount Palatin are the ruines of the * Palazzo Maggiore , or seat of the Caesars . The Valley betwixt this hill and the Aventin , was the a Circus Maximus . At the foot of the Aventin are Antoninus his Bathes . And on all sides fragments of Antiquitie , which shew that the Romans built to last unto eternity . The sixth day in the morning wee went to Saint Peters , where wee saw his S. carried about in Pompe , with his triple Crowne , his breaking of the Toarch , with other Ceremonies of the excommunication , and his washing of the Pilgrims feet , to humble himselfe . In the afternoone , wee walkt amongst some Antiquities , first passing along the Tyber , wee saw the * Insula Tiburtina , which was made of the wheat of Tarquinius his granaries , that was cast into the River after his banishment out from Rome ; Secondly , the a Bridge wheron Horatius Cocles fought , when he commanded his men to cut downe a piece , and to leave him to his enemies . A little farther , by the Via Ostiensis is the Pratum , where they us'd their Olympick games ; and in the same Medow is the Mons Testaceus so cald , because the Romans which in their Temples and Sacrifices us'd earthen vessels much , were wont to carry all their broken Pots to this place , which in time grew to such a heap , that at this day there is a high hill of Potshares , from whence wee had a full view of all the seven hills of Rome , to wit , the Capitoline , The Pallatin , The Aventine , The Celius , The Esquiline , The Viminall , The Quirinall . Against Testaceus in the walls of Rome , just by the Gate that leads to Ostia , is a huge Pyramid of Marble , * Cestius one of the rich Epulons Tombe . On good Friday wee went to S. Peters , wherein his Sanctities Chappell wee saw most admirable Representations . And there wee found opportunity to goe into the Vaults , under Saint Peters , where we saw diverse Sepulchers of the primitive Christians , that of Pope Adrian the fourth , an English man , of Porphyre . The Chappell where the bodyes of Saint Peter and S. Paul were interd . In the afternoone , wee went to the Campo Vaccino , but in the way stands Saint Pauls House , where according to the Acts , a Paul dwelt two whole yeares in his owne hired house , &c. The b Campo Vaccino was heretofore the Forum Romanum , fild with the best buildings about Rome , of which great remnants are yet standing . Going downe into it from the Capitoll , in the wall towards the foundations of the new Capitoll is some part of the old , of mighty great stones . On the left is the Prison anciently Tertullianum , now San Pietro in Carcere , because hee was there imprisond . At the foot of the Capitoll is the c Arc triumphal , of Septimius Severus suppos'd to be the first that was erected in Rome , amongst the worke upon this Arche is be seen the fashion of the Roman Aries . The three Pillars which stand buried halfe way in the ground behind the Capitoll , are of the Temple of Jupiter stator . The seven the Temple of Concorde . The third in the midst of Campo Vaccino , The Temple of Jupiter tonant . Hard by there is the Vorago , whereinto Curtius threw himselfe , and a good way towards the Villa Farnese , the place wher Remus and Romulus were found by Faustulus . At the other end of the Campo Vaccino , is the * Temple of Peace , where Vespasian conserv'd that precious Treasury he brought away from Hierusalem . On the Palatin the Temple of Isis . One morning we went to S. John Latran , where we saw the solemnity of a Moore , and two Iewes baptis'd in Constantins Baptistary . From thence we went to the Villa Matthei , in the way runs Claudus his Aquiducts , and hard by is the Temple of Fannus , a very entire Antiquity , now Saint Stefano Rotundo . In the Villa Matthei there is an ancient Pila , a Pyramid , the Colosse of Alexander , things as pleasing to the judicious , as the other delights of the gardens to the ignorant . The same day about the Evening , we went to the Greeks Church where wee saw the Ceremonies of the Easterne Churches , and heard their Service all in Greek . On Easter day wee went to Saint Peters , to see the manner of his S. receiving the Eucharist : The rest of that day wee repos'd to fit our selves for the voyage of Naples , so that now after so satisfactory a sight of this Mistris of the world Rome , we bid her adieu for a time , leaving what we now omitted till our Returne . The voyage from Rome to Naples , though it bee the most dangerous passage in Italy , because the wayes are so throng'd with Banditos , yet in the upshot it proves no lesse requisite to mindes inquisitive in the Roman Antiquities ; no lesse delightfull to men that would see the Wonders of Nature , then any other in Europe . There is all the way so many fragments of the Roman glory , that t is hard to judge whither Rome and Naples were once joynd together , or whither Pozzuolo was the Suburbe of Rome . From whence wee set forth out of Port. Lat : anciently Asinaria ; a mile out of the City there are on all sides pieces of Antiquity . On the right hand we left the Aquiducts of of Ancus Martius , and Claudius , with the new of Sixtus Quintus not so stately as the old , on which the Aqua Felice runnes sixteene miles . A little farther on the right upon the Via Appia , is the * Sepulcher of Metella Crassus his wife , now Capo di buove from the Oxes heads of Marble upon it , with many more ancient Tombes . Hard by is the Cirque of Caracalla , where lies the Pyramid that the old Earle of Arundell would have bought , but in regard of the vastnesse , could find no possibility of conveying it to the Tyber , t is said the present Pope after his Nephewes Pallace in Piazza di Navona is finisht , will erect it there in Circus Agonalis . These and diverse more Antiquities we had in view , round about us , till wee came unto Frescati . Where having dined , wee walkt up to old Tusculum , to see Ciceros house , where hee compos'd that immortall testimony of Morality and learning , his Tusculans Qnestions . t is situated on the top of a hill two mile above Frescati ; so that some give the Etemology {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} from {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} vexare , because t is troublesome to goe up to . Tullies house stands , that continually t is refresht with gales of winde , and hath on all sides a most pleasant Prospect , even to the Mediterranean Sea , it shewes it self thus in its ruines . Jullies Jusculan House In the ruine vnder the letter . A. was of late yeares found a treasure . B. Tullies house whereof . 10. Vaults are yet very firme . C. The place where his Piscina or Fish-ponde was . The territorie of Frescati , as it was the ancient delight of the Romans , so it is as yet coverd with Gardens and Villas , about ten Cardinalls having their Countrey seats there . A place of such ravishing delights , as fitter's for the Gods to inhabit then men . Such is the Quantity of trees , which keep perpetually green , the murmuring of Fountaines and the like . Amongst the the Villa's , the chiefe , and which wonderfully declares the ingenuity of the Italians , is the Aldobrandina , which for divises in water is the first within or without Rome , I think I may say in the world . Quite through the garden , falls a Cataract , or deluge of water , towards the Embushment of which , stand two Serpentin Pillars of Mosaick , from the tops of which , the water creeps downe ; Below in the Court is that admirable Fountaine , in which is represented Atlas throwing up water , which forceth artificiall Thunder , and a perfect Rainbow ; Whil'st the Elements seeme here to bee at difference ; A Satyre blowes a horne lowder then I ever heard a man ; And Pan in the Interim , playes two diverse tunes upon the Organes : Things that strike astonishment to all the Spectators , which whosoever they be , must looke to goe away wet to the skinne , as we did , and from thence went into a place cald the terrestiall Paradise , and not undeservedly ; for as the other inventions are mov'd by water , so these goe by wind . At the end of it is fashiond a hill , Parnassus whereon set the nine Muses with severall winde Instruments that sound by art . Underneath this hill are Organs , which plaid divers tunes so distinctly , that wee conceiv'd some Master was playing on them , but looking wee saw they went of themselves , the cause of all this wee afterwards saw ; In the midst of the roome , there being a Hole out of wch winde issueth , so violently , that for halfe a quarter of an houre it beares up a Ball . Leaving Frescati , that afternoone we past by Diana's Lake , and the wood famous for the fiction of Acteon . From thence wee had a woody and mountanous way unto Veletri , where wee lay , Veletri heretofore belongd to the Volsci , and the ancestors of Augustus came from thence . The best things to be seen in it now is the statue of Pope Vrban the eight , in ●rasse , and the publick fountaines . The next morning having past downe the hill , whereon Veletri stands , wee came into a plaine Country , and din'd at Sermoneta , fifteen miles from Veletri . In the afternoone , about three miles from Sermoneta , we past by a Tower , built on the top of a Rock , to defend the Country from Robbery , as they say , though I believe more to take money for passage , through the Gate below . Five Italian miles farther , neere to the Casa Nuova , and casa Biancha at the foot of the hills , at the left are the Tres Tabernae , or three Tavernes , where the Brethren met Saint Paul , in his voyage to Rome ; according to the Acts. They shew themselves in this forme now , & are indifferent entire , they being built as the other Fabricks of the Romans , of great stones and Bricks in Square . Tres Tabernae mentioned Act : 28th Just before the Tres Tabernae are the Pomptine Fennes , and above , on a hill stands Setia , which Martiall saith — Pendulam Pomptinos spectare campos . That night wee lay at Piperno , at the Post house on the other side of the Hill ; but before we there arriv'd , wee saw the Quarters of many Banditas hangd on the high way side , an argument of the great hazard one undergoes in this journey , if not a competent number together . Piperno heretofore Privernum was a City of the Volsci , noted onely for the Birth of Virgills Camilla , who came from thence . The next morning leaving Piperno , wee past by a Convent , with a faire ancient Church cald Fossa Nova , where Thomas Aquinas died , which Place was the Appii Forum . Likewise mention'd by Saint Luke , in his description of Saint Pauls voyage to Rome . About foure miles farther , at a high Tower wee enterd upon the Via Appia , that Queen of wayes , which Appius in his Consulship ▪ lead from Rome to Capua , and which Trajan afterwards extended to Brundusium . This street if I may so call it ( the ruines of houses , Tombes , and the like on both sides of it , testifying the former beauty thereof ) is compacted of such solid stones , that after so long a succession of time , neither the continuall passage of foote or horse , nor the injurie of weather , hath yet consum'd any part of it , unlesse that which past through the Pomptine Fennes which the water hath overflowde , the rest is very entire and firme , chiefly from this Tower to Terracina , where we dind . Terracina was formerly Anxur , as Livie hath it , Anxur fuit quae nunc Terracinae sunt Vrbs prona in paludes , it stands on the Cercean Promontory , according to that of Virgill — Circaeumque jugum queis Jupiter Anxuris oris-Praesidet . Upon which Servius in his Comentarie gives the dirivation of Anxur , quasi {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} sine novacula , because that Jupiter imberbis was there worshipt ; a part of which Temple yet stands in the walls of the Dome , as the vast Marbles and pieces of Pillars witnesse ; Before it are some old inscriptions , with a Pillar to Theodorick for having dry'd the Fennes , and renewed the way ; over the old Inscriptions are these new . Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta Anxurei hoc oculis exposuere Loco . The Old. Imp. Caesar Divi Nervae Fili us Nerva Trajanus Aug : Germanicus Dacicus Pontif : Max : Trib : Pot : XVIIII . Imp. VI . Cos. V. PP. XVIII . Silices sua Pecunia stravit . TIT VPIO Aug : Optato Pontiano Procuratori ET Praefect : Classis TI Julius TI Fab — Optatus II. VIR . From Terraccina to Fondi , are ten miles , which way lying in the Confines of the State of Rome , and the Kingdome of Naples , is the most dangerous part of all the voyage . From Terracina wee first past by the Emperour Galbas Villa ; of which take Suetonius . Ser. Galba Imperator M. Valerio Messalla , Cn. Lentulo Coss . natus est IX . Kal. Januarii in villa Colli supposita prope Tarracinam sinistrorsum Fundos petentibus . Two mile farther wee came to a wall with a Gate , which is the entrance into the Kingdome of Naples , where on a Marble Table I read thus . Hospes hic sunt Fines regni Neopolitani , si amicus advenis pacatè omnia invenies , & malis moribus pulsis , bonas leges . From thence keeping right on the Via Appia , plaine and even , wee saw many pieces of Antiquity , amongst which was an ancient Tombe , very entire , but whose , t is not certaine . In this pleasant passage wee came at length to Fundi , where we lay that night . Fundi , though spoild of all signes of its Antiquity , yet still keeps its old name , as Cicer : Atic. — Fundis accepi tuasitt eras caenans . T is scituated in a low plain , and as the Poet saith Collibus hinc atque inde Lacu simul aequore cinctum Citria cui florent hortis è littore Myrti . The Territoire about is very fruitfull of Orange trees , so much that wee went into an Orchard , and for twenty Citrons & about thirty Oranges , wee gave the Owner a Julio , ( that comes to an English six-pence ) which very well contented him , and I believe if we had stood to agree upon the price , wee might have had as many more for that money . Over a gate on the left hand at Fundi , is this old Inscription . EnVmmis Fronius LF DECTIEN C. Lucius , M. F. M. Runtius , L. F. Mess. Aed : Portas , Turreis , Murum . Ex SC. Faciund : Coerunt Eisdemque probarunt . Neer to Fondi we saw the Mons Caecubus noted amongst the ancients for the good Wine it bore , as Martiall saith . — Caecuba Fundanis generosa coquuntur ahenis . The next morning insisting yet on the Via Appia ; which though mountanous in that part , yet hath on both sides Myrtles , Bayes , Locusts , Pomegrannets , and such like Verts , that grow wild in the Hedges , we came at length to an ancient Torret , built halfe of solid Marble ; which after little examination wee found to bee Ciceros Tombe , his Villa Formiana famous for his Slaughter , being there ; Tullie●s Sepulcher is now in this figure . As in the page following . Jullies tombe at his Vida Formiana This Tombe stands in an Olive garden , and at that instant when we rode by , a labourer working there , dug up two old Coines , which some of our Company bought . From hence we were in view of Cajeta ; Of which Virgil saith , Tu qoque littoribus nostris Aeneia Nutrix Aeternam moriens famam Cajeta dedisti . The City lies in a Peninsula , very strong , and hard to come to by Land , but over a narrow Isthmus . The mountaine cleft in sunder by an Earthquake ( which commonly happen in the Kingdome of Naples ) is very hidious . The Inhabitants beare a great reverence to this place , for that they believe it happened at the same time when our Saviour was in his Passion . In the Church hard by the Trinitate , amongst other things to be seen , there 's the Corpes of the Duke of Bourbon in a wodden Chest , who was kild in attempting to surprize Rome ; His Epitaph is thus in Spanish . Francia me dio la luze Espanna m' esfuerzo y ventura , Roma mi dio la muerte Gaëta la Sepoltura . France gave me breath , Spaine strength to Armes did call , Rome gave me Death ; Gajeta Buriall . In the great Church at Gaieta is a huge Crater or Bowle , now put to the use of a Font , which was dug up out of the ruines of Formia . The worke so good that the Sculptor was not asham'd to put his name to it ; for thereon is this . {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} , {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} . At Gajeta t will quit the paines of climing up the Promontory , to see the Mausoleum of L. Munatius Plancus , one of Ciceros Pupills , a most entire Antiquity ; over the dore may plainly be read . L Munatius L. P. L. F. L. Pron. Plancus . Cos. Cens. Imp Iter. VII . Vir. Epul . Triump . ex Raptis . Aedem . Saturni fecit de Manubiis . Agros . Div. Sit. in Italia . Beneventi . In. Gallia Colonias deduxit . Lugdunum & Rauricam . From this a Chronologer may collect , it is of neere one thousand six hundred yeares standing . The Countrey from Mola to Gajeta , containes more Orange trees then any I know , except Naples it selfe . A little farther , about a mile from Mola , Formiae anciently , a Marble on the Via Appia speaks thus Plautius Theodo Pil : Apella Magister Augustalis Plautiae A. L. Rufae ConLibert . Concubin . Piae Plautiae Aug ▪ L. Faustae Libert. That day wee dind at Mola , where there is to bee seen Ciceros Grote , in which he wrote many of his familiar Epistles . In the afternoone eight miles from Mola , we came unto Garigliano , where the famous City Minturna stood , as a very entire Aquiduct , an Amphitheatre , with many other ruines testifie . Having past here the river Liris , that terminated old Latium we came into the Medowes of Minturna , where Marius hid himselfe in his flight from Sylla ; at the end of those fields runs along , Mons Massicus , so renown'd for the wines it produc't , t is now cald Garo , and from thence the river Liris , Garigliano , adjoyning are the ruines of Senuessa , as Martiall — Et Senuessanis venerunt Massica Praelis . That night wee lay in Ager Falernus , at a Village calld S. Agatha , at the bottome of Sessa , formerly Aurunca . The Ager Falernus is all that space of ground , which lies betwixt the Mons Massicus , and the River Vulturnus , so that because of their affinity , Vinum Massicum and Falernum was us'd promiscuously by the Ancients . The next morning , we past by Torre di Francolesse , where Hanniball being besieg'd by Fabius Maximus , escapt through that famous stratageme of making his enemies drunke . Two mile farther , wee came in view of that happie Plaine of Campania , now Terru di Lavoro , which most Authors , as well Moderne , as old , extoll for the most fruitfull plat of earth , that is in the Universe . In a word , t was the Subject of Virgils Georgicks . In which having rode five miles , wee came to dinner at New Capua , which though so cald in regard of the other , yet hath some remnants of Antiquitie . In the Cloister of a Church , are some Ancient Tombes . In the midst of the City , at the entrance as I suppose of the Jesuites Colledge , is this old Inscription . Julio Auroxonti Leonidae . V. C. Quaestori Praet. Curatori Capuensium Ob multa praeclara in cives patriamque Honori Licentiae suae merita Institutori Novorum ac Renovatori Operum Publicorum . Ab origine Patrono omni laude dignissimo Regio Competi . The old Capua , the delight of Hanniball , and Paragon with Rome , and Carthage is two mile off out of the way , on the left where the ruines of Columnes , Theatres , Temples , Porches shew its former Magnificence . From Capua to Naples , the way is even , spacious , and like a garden , t is indeed Campania . The fertility of which is such , that if the owner have not as much Wine out of one Vine , as will load five Mules , he thinkes his labour ill spent , an incredible , though true argument of the fruitfullnesse , of this Countrey . In the mid-way stands Anversa , and eight miles farther Naples . This Metropolis of that Kingdome , which takes its denomination from thence , is a Maritimate on the Mediterranean shoare . T is ancient , though Neapolis , and was first cald Parthenope . At this present t is reckond the third City in Italy , and so great are the delights which nature hath allowed to this place , that t is still frequented by men of high condition , and great personages , so that it hath taken the Epethite , Naples the Gentle . The streets of Naples are generally well pav'd of free-stone , especially that of Toledo , very large and even . Which indeed is necessarie , here in regard of the multitude of Coaches that passe to and fro . The Houses are very uniforme , built flat , at the top to walke on , a notable convenience in these hot parts . Another like accommodation which this City hath , against the heats is the Mole , which is like an Artificiall street casting it selfe into the Sea , hither all the Gentry at the evening retire to take the Fresco . At the end of the Mole is the Fanal , and underneath a fountaine , with the statues of the old Dieties of Parthenope . From thence one hath in view the mountanous Iland Capreas , the delight of Tyberius . Amongst the Palaces of Naplee , the Vice Kings then Duca d' Arcos is the fairest . There are three Castles , S. Elmo above , Castel nuovo , Castello del Ovo below . The Churches are generally the best I ever came into , fild with Marbles , chiefly the Carthusians , the Jesuits , the Bishops Chappell . The onely Antiquity within the City , is at the Theatins Church , which was a Temple of Castor and Pollux , the Frontispiece , or Porch of ancient Pillars , with a Greek Inscription over it ( which Language this City spake when it was cald Parthenope ) as likewise the remnants of their two Statues yet standing ; The Inscription is this . {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} . It beiug May while we staide at Naples , We saw the famous Miracle of the bloud of Santo Gennaro , carryed in procession . Naples is extremely populous , and consequently vitious , he that desires to live a retired , or indeed chaste life must not set up there ; as the gardens are fild with Oranges , so the houses want not for Lemmon . Jusque datum Sceleri , saith the Poet . There were at my being there thirty thousand Courtesans Registred , that paid taxes for their pleasure . The things within Naples , are not to be omitted , yet those about give farre more satisfaction ; and truly if a traveller Hyperbolise in any part of his voyage of Italy , the most fit Theame he can take , are the Wonders a little distant from Naples ; and first the Tractus Puteolanus scatens hominum ac naturae miraculis . Parting for Pozzuoloes , on the left a Suburb by the Sea side leads to the Margouline , where in the Church cald Santa Maria Del Parto , is the Sepulcher of Sincerus Sannazarius , with many figures of Marble excellently cut , and this Epitaph . Actius . Sincerus . D. O. M. Da Sacro cineri Flores , Hic ille Maroni , Sincerus Musa Proximus ut tumulo . Vix : Ann. LXXI . Obiit MD XXX . A Countreyman of ours in honour to that worthy Poet , hath left this paper of verses beside his Tombe . Sonulus hendeca-Syllabicus Rithmicus . Valum Nobile par brevi Camoena Longum mensus iter ; Fleam necesse Quorum fertur oves ? ita iste flesse . Vt narint lachrimis & uda Avena Seu pisces , lepida sed ille vena Tam pisces cecinit probe atque presse Se tanquam placidos ut ipse adesse Cura praestiteriut oves arena Partum Virginis unus arte rara In sanctos rotulos modosque cultos Alter quem memorant Sybillae ad ar● Annos Vaticinatus ante multos Quid mirum est igitur jacere clara Ambos Virginis Vrbe Consepultos . Ad Aras P. Virgilii Maronis , &c. Act : Sin : Poetarum Princip : Hugo Hollandus Nobilis Cambo Britannus . Flevit Fixitque Autore vero egregio & amico Alexandro Hebruno Nobili Anglo Britanno . 1626. Mart. 5. Returning back a little , wee came to the entrance of the famous Grotte , over which on the left hand , stands Virgils Tombe upon a high rock , so that it is scarce to be seen by those that passe below , The Guides commonly shewing a false ; wherefore some few dayes after we walkt up into it . Over the Dore of the Garden you passe through to it , is this Inscription on a Marble . Maronis Vrnam . Cum Adjacente Monticulo , extensaque ad Cryptam planitie . Modiorum trium cum dimidio circiter Vrbano VIII . annuente , &c. Renovanda Mem. Praesentis Concessionis singulis XXVIII annis in actis Cur Archiepiscopalis . Having read this we went into the Tombe , now of this Forme and scituation . As in the page following . A. Virgills Tombe ▪ B. The entrance into the Grotte C. a little chappell taken for Virgills Tombe , but falsely . This Tombe of the Prince of Poets is built in a Rotunda , or Cupola , about five paces long , within , the walls are of Bricke , in square after the Roman way , the outside is of Massive stone , all coverd now with Bushes , amongst which three or foure Bay trees , ( an immortall Embleme of the Prince of Poets there interd ) shoot forth about the height of a man , round it lye scatterd ruines , that testifie its former beauty , In the rock just opposite to the entrance , where his knowne Epitaph of Mantua me genuit was , that being decayed , is plac't a Marble , stone with these verses . STAĪSI Cencovius . 15 89 Qui Cineres ? Tumuli haec vestigia , conditur olim Ille hoc , qui cecinit pascua , rura , Duces , Can : Rec : MDLIIII . What dust lies here ? this Heap protects his Hearse . Who whilome warbled Fields , Farmes , Fights in Verse . The Crypta Neapolitana a perfect signe of the Roman Magnificence is the rockie Mountaine Pausylippus , cut through , very high , spacious ▪ and well pav'd , so that for the space of a mile , two Coaches may goe on Front under earth ▪ in the midst is a Madonna , with a Lampe perpetually burning , the words at the Incounter are Alla Marina , Alla Montagne . At the going out of the Grotte , wee strooke towards the right , and arriv'd at the Grotta del Cane , which hath some innate property , to kill every living thing that enters , if not speedily cast into the lake Agnano , 15. paces distant . We saw the experiment , ( as for the most part it is shewn ) in a Dog , which seem'd to loose his vitall force by degrees , but afterwards being throwne into the Lake , reviv'd . Hard by are the Stowes of San Gennaro reasonable hot , with the odour of Sulphure . Hence turning to the left , we came to Capuchins , and saw the stone whereon San Gen naro was beheaded , with Nasita a Mountaine in the Sea , and a little towards the right hand , is the Sulphatara , or hill of Brimstone , on which no grasse or hearb growes , but t is all white with ashes , it still casting out of severall holes a continuall smoke , with Flame , making the very earth to boile . The ground is hollow underneath , and makes a hidious noise if strooke upon with a Hammer , or the like . These hills were cald by the ancient Leucogei ; Campus Phlegraeus , and Forum Vulcani , whose Kingdome ( if in any part of the world ) is here about , the Fire breaking out even in the high wayes . Here they compose Medicinall Pots of Brimstone . Advancing forward , into the Suburbs of Pozzuoles , wee saw an Amphitheatre , and Ciceros house , cald Academia . Afterwards being come to the Port , wee tooke a barque , to passe over the bay , which is round about , fild with remnants of those Romans magnificence , that liv'd there . The first place wee saw after wee were set to Land , was the Mercato del Sabbato formerly a a Cirque ; and the buriall place of the ancient Romans . From thence we past through the Elisian Fields ( as they call them ) a plaine spot of Earth , between the Mount Misenus , & the Augustins Convent of twenty Acres , and came to the ancient Misenus , so cal'd from the Trumpeter of Aeneas there interd , the old Poets cald it A erius , because of the many Sotteran Caves in it ; of which many are yet to be seen . The chiefe is the Piscina Mirabili ; before which is the Mare Mortuum . This Piscina cald mirabili , because of the wonderfull art t is built with , was a reserver of fresh water for the Navie , which , ( because this stands so neare the Sea ) was brought sixtie mile . It hath eleven Pillars in the length , foure in breadth , about foure and fourty in all . The materiall t is plaisterd with , in the inside is as durable as stone , yet no man knowes of what it is compos'd , some conceive it to be of the whites of Egges , and dust of Marble mingled together . From hence leaving Lucullus his house at the left , wee went downe into the Cento Camerelle , or Nerôs hundred Chambers , where hee kept his Prisoners , a most hidious place . Below that towards the Sea-side is the Temple of Hercules , the place where Agrippina , Neros Mother was kild , the Pescheries of Hortensius , Tacitus his sons house , with many other ancient fragments which we saw though with much paines . From thence we tooke boat for Baia , where the Castle built by Charles the fifth of France is strong , going thither we could discerne the foundations of Cimeria , and old Baia underneath the Sea , with the Via Consularis overwhelm'd by the water , and on the shoare nothing but ruines . Hereabouts Caron was feign'd to passe with his Boate . Here we set againe to Land , and saw the Temple of Venus , the Sepulcher of Agrippina , with diverse figures , and her Pallace of the same worke . The Temple of Diana at the left , the Bathes of Trullius ; The houses of Marius Pompey , Nero standing aloft . Hereabout the Sea water is naturally hot : Hard by we went into Ciceros Bathes , as gallant and entire an Antiquity as any in the Tract of Pozzuolo ; These waters were so soveraigne , not many years since over most diseases , that over every Bath was written for what cures it was good , of which Inscriptions some letters yet stand , but the Physitians of Palermo ( as they tell the story ) finding those waters prejudiciall to their custome , went with instruments expresly , and demolisht those writings ( so that for the present they are unusefull ) the said Physitians , being all cast away in their returne . From these Bathes we went up to the Stowes of Tritola extreamely hot , even to Suffocacation , yet contrary to the Grottadel Cane , that choking below , and harmelesse above , these coole and refreshing below , but almost stifeling above . From thence we took horse , and past by the Lacus Lucrinus , the greater part whereof is now coverd with the Monte Nuovo , which mountaine ( as their tradition is ) was rais'd in one night , a mile high , from the ashes which came out of Sulfatara , and so coverd the Lucrin Lake . Tommaso Fonnare an old man of Pozzuolo , that dyed three yeares since remembred of that mountaines being made in one night a hundred yeares agoe . After that wee rode to the Lake Avernus , where abouts was the Poets Acheron or descent into hell , at one side of the Lake is the Temple of Apollo ; at the other , the Sybilla Cumanas Grotte . T is very spacious , at the end is a Magnificent ascent where the Oracle stood , with the way that lead to Cuma , Her bath yet stands , and her Chambers painted in Mosaick worke , yet all under ground , as indeed most of the aforesaid Antiquities ( excepting the Temples ) are . In returning to Pozzuolo , we saw the Mount Gaurus , from whence came the best Falernum , now cald Barbaro , it being altogether sterile . In Puteoli there are some Antiquities , as the Temple of Neptune , &c. In the Port are the vast ruines of Caligulas Bridge , which past three mile crosse the Sea , from Pozzuoles to Baia. After dinner wee went back to Naples , In the way wee saw the Lions , Austriches , and other wild beasts and fowles , that a certaine Prince keeps . Having repos'd a day after this troublesome , yet satisfactory voyage of Pozzuoles , the next morning wee set out of the quite contrary part of Naples , to see that Miracle of Nature , the Brother of Aetna , Vesuvius , so famous for its last eruption . On the way , almost at the foot of the mountaine , ( a Marble frame which are usuall on the high wayes , in the Kingdome of Naples ) relates this . Posteri Posteri Vestra res agitur Dies facem profert Dici nudius perendino Advortite . Vicies ab satu solis ni fabulatur historia Arsit Vesevus Immani semper clade haesitantantium . Ne posthaec incertos occupet . Vterum gerit Mons hic moneo . Bitumine , alumine , Ferro , Sulphure , Auro , Argento , Nitro , Aquarum Fontibus gravem . Seryus , Ocyus ignescet , pelagoque influente pariet . Sedante parturit . Concutitur , concutitque solum , Fumigat , coruscat , Flāmigerat , Quatit aerem . Horrendum immugit , boat , tonat Arsit finibus accolas Emica dum licet . Jam jam inititur mixtum igne lacum evomit Praecipiti ruit ille lapsu Seramque fugam praevertit Si praeripit actum est periisti . Ann : Sal. M DCXXX . XVI . Jan Philippo IV. Rego . Tum tu si sap is audi clamantem Lapidem Sperne Larem , sperne Sarcinulas , mora nulla fuge . Antonio Suares Vice Praefecto viarum . The Vesuvius shewes it selfe thus from Naples . The Mountaine Vesuvius Upon this Hill , or ( changing a Letter ) Hell is a goodly Countrey for the space of foure mile on all sides , which formerly produc't the excellent Graeco , made barren , being coverd with a matter like Seacole Sinders . Going up higher t is hidious to behold the deep cracks in the Earth , through which the streames of Sulphure past , all about lyes scatterd the severall materialls it cast forth ; Some like mettall , other like Pitch , Brimstone and the like , with such vast stones , as ( I speake the least ) foure porters would not able to carrie one of them Being come so neere the top , as we could with our horses , we were forc't to alight , and to crawle up the steeper part , which is all coverd with a reddish substance , that sounds like earthen vessells , some conceive it to be Pumie stone burnt , after this wee got up though weary to the top ; where the Vorago is so terrifying a spectacle , that if I would paint Hell , this would be the best Patterne ; It is a hole about three mile in compasse , and about halfe as much in depth , in the midst is a new hill that still vomits thick smoke , which the fire within hath rais'd within few yeares , it daily increaseth , and when t is growne to a fuller Bulke caveat Neapolis . Pliny the Naturalist too Inquisitive after the cause of this intestine fire chang'd lives with Death on this Mountaine . In returning , as we were tir'd in getting up , so wee went easily down , though almost up to the knees in ashes . This Mountaine was the Vltima Meta of our voyage to Naples , wherefore having with much content seen these wonderfull things of Antiquity , Nature , and Curiosity ; after some few dayes we parted from Naples to Rome , treading the same path we had before trac't , At our going out of the Kingdome , they made us pay five times , for our Vallees , although they could finde no prohibited goods ; At our entrance they let us passe quietly , without paying a farthing . All the way to Rome I saw nothing observable , but what I had before spoken of , onely I would not omit the great quantity of Bufferos ( Beasts which furnish the Souldiery with their skins ) that we met in the Countrey . The day after our returne to Rome , wee walkt to San Sebastiano , where a mercenary Fryar let us downe into the Roma Sotterranea , or Rome under ground , those hallowed Cavernes where the Church in her Infancy shelterd her selfe from persecution ; there is a most immense Folio out on this Subject . T is now indeed a City for the Dead , where in every street are pild gradually one above another , the Corps of Martyrs , to which some Monuments are added with no other Epitaphs then this , Pro Christo . This place is as stupendious for the rarity as venerable for the Antiquity : The natives of Rome know not how farre these Vaults continue under the Earth ; yet some miles they say are already discoverd , with so many Maeanders , that hee who adventures to enter without an experienc't Guide may ( as some French men did ) goe into his grave living , yet increase the Bill of Mortality . From thence wee went into the Transtevere , saw first Montorio , formerly the Janiculum , and the Chappell where ( ut aiunt ) Saint Peter was crucifified . In the Church lies buried the Count Tiron Oneille of Ireland , who comming to Rome in devotion dyed , very poore , yet for his good service in the Catholique Cause , hath a Tombestone with this Inscription . D. O. M. Roderico Principi Odonallio Comiti Tironalliae in Hibernia , Qui pro Religione Catholica Gravissimis defunctus periculis . In Sago pariter & in Toga , Constantissimus Cultor , & defensor Apostolicae Romanae Fidei , &c. From thence wee went down into many rich Churches , where the Primitive Christians were martyrd ; In one to wit , Santa Maria Transteverana is the Fountaine of Oyle that arose , at our Saviours birth ; Some stones that were tide at the Martyrs feet when they were drown'd , with other manner of Torments that they were put to ; In the same Church are very rare pillars of Porphyre , and other stone taken from Aurelians baths . Thus every day produc't a new sight to us , but I would not passe by our Voyage to Tivoli , which was as followeth . Setting forth out of Rome , at Porta di San Lorenzo five miles from the City , we saw a Bridge over the Teverone , built by Mamea , the Mother of Severus ; A little forwarder the Sepulcher of Valerius Volusi , and ancient Tombes without number ; On farther there 's a place cald Fide nates , and a Sulphurious River , A Bridge cald Ponte Lucano , and an ancient Tower garnisht with Inscriptions , that stands for the Sepulcher of Plautius . When wee were come to Tivoli , wee went to see those wonderfull Eliziums , which the Cardinall d' Este at most Royall expence hath there in possession ; the sight whereof in my Opinion , may at this present draw as many to see Tivoli , as Rome with all her Merveiles . This shall be my patterne for a Countrey seat ; All Regale , and therefore I 'le not omit any Particular . First t is evident , the Hill was made even , and upon that Piazza this Pallace was erected ; which is built of square stone , and all things answerable to a Kingly Grandezza . At the right hand are those Gardens which they call the secret , in which there are sixteen huge Lavers of Marble , that cast forth Chrystalline water , in the midst of these stands a Janus Quadrifrons higher then those , which makes foure more fountaines that resemble Looking Glasses . At the left there 's a sumptuous Place for all manner of Exercises , or Turnaments . The Facciata or Front hath between the Windowes many ancient Statues , and so the first Porch with most ample steps in the ascent to the Palace . Before this , there 's a most glorious Fountaine , with the Statue of Leda ; And foure vast and most delicious gardens in view . Passing down the steps which have Piles of Water on both sides , amongst the Groves there 's these Fountaines of Tethys , Esculapius , Arethusa , Pandora , Pomona , and Flora . Afterwards there 's the stately Pegasus in Pamossa . The two Colosses of the Sybilla Tyburtina , and Melicerta . The Cupids powring water out of their Flaskes are most ingenious , next there are some Urnes , upon which stand ten Nymphes , and in the midst the Caves of the Sybilla , Tiburtina , and Diana , Goddesse of the Woods . Both aadornd with fountaines , statues , Roots of Corall , Mother of Pearle , and pav'd with Mosaick worke . On the other side of the Garden sets Rome triumphant , in the midst of her most Memorable Fabricks , as the Pantheon , Capitoll , Cirques , Theatres , Amphitheatres , Obelisques , Mausoleos , Archs Triumphall , Pyramids , Aquiducts , Porticos , Thermas , and the like . Neither is the River Tyber wanting ; for out of the Wolfe and Twinnes gusheth a Rivolet , proportionable to that Representative City . In the next garden there 's the Vccellario , where amonst the Branches of Trees , Artificiall Birds move their Wings and sing sweetly ; on a sudden an Owle appears , and they change their Melody into a chattering admiration . Not farre from thence is the Fountaine of Dragons , which vomit forth the water with a most horrid Noyse . The Grotte of Nature where the Organs play most harmoniously by the motion of Water . In the garden that followes are diverse Lakelike conservatories of Fish , with Swans , here the Mete Sudanti , the Ocean with Neptune in his Charriot on Sea Horse are most stupenduous . In the last the Triton and thousand exotick Plants are to bee seen . Tyr'd with these Master-Pieces of Art , wee went to that Naturall Cascata , or Cataract at Tivoli , which is made by the precipitious fall of the River Anien from the Mountaines , it rusheth downe with that Fury , that there is still a thick mist over it , and by the Reflexion of the Sun ariseth a perfect Rainbow . Pliny mentioneth this River to have that Innate Quality to Petrifie the ground it passeth through , or any thing that lies long in it . The Sulphurious streame I above mention'd flowes from this . Neere to this is an old Temple , some say of Hercules , others adjudge it to the Sibylla Tyburtina , or Albunea , and the more propable , for Tivoli was anciently Tybur . Horace and many of the Roman Magnates had their Villas here , of which they shew their Ruines , as likewise the Sybilles Cave . Returning for Rome , one may discerne Preneste , and a little out of the way , on the left stands a huge moles of Antiquity , the Villa Hadriana , the heap rather of a City then a House , t is reported hee had there the most eminent buildings of the World taken from the Originalls , but — Jam seges est , ubi Troja fuit . I have been long in the Transaction of these things , in and about Rome , and now end somewhat abruptly , the diversity of things , makes my memory treacherous , I can onely say Roma Capo e Compendio del Mondo A cui non e cosa simile ne seconda . Rome of the world Compendium and Head Admits no like , nor can be seconded . The heats growing on at Rome , wee left it to set up our station for the Summer at Sienna , and having already seen Caprarola , wee went with the Procacccio , so that passing to Viterbo by the Strada Nuova , wee saw some remnants of the Via Cassia , with Soutry where Orlando Furioso was borne , and the ruines of Gharlemaines Pallace . At the great Inne at Radicofany , wee met the Marquis de Fontenay , the French Embassadour in his voyage to Rome . A week after our arrive at Sienna , was an Opera represented on the new Theatre of Prince Matthias , with severall changes of Sceanes , as a Garden , Sea , Pallace , and other Machines , at which the Italians are spoke to be excellent . All the time of our stay at Sienna , I fild my bookes more with observations of the Language , then of the people , City , or Country : Onely the diversity of fruits which are every day brought to Market ; and sold at a low rate , argues much the fertility of Italy , as well as the great quantity of silke it produceth , and therefore deservedly cald Bombycina ; In June was the silke Harvest , If I may so call it , and there was such abundance , that in England I never saw so much Woole , as I did here Silke . The ninth of July the Sanesians solemnizd a feast , but sore against their wills , for Cosmus the Duke of Florence's taking Sienna . In August on the feast of the Assumption of the Virgin , was a Race of Barbaries , which ran without Riders from one gate of the City to the Princes Pallace , for a Pallium of Cloath of Gold . The same Moneth wee went to the Jewes Synagogue , and saw the Circumcising of a Child . Which the sacred Page describes . September the seventh wee set from Siena , to begin our returne towards France , our first dayes journey reacht to Florence , where tarrying one day , the next wee parted with the Procaccio for Venice , paying seven Crownes a man . Six miles up the Apennin we past by Pratolin , a famous seat of Pleasance belonging to the great Duke ; and about as many miles farther wee dind at Il Ponte , before which lies a most delicious Valley , environd with very high mountaines . After dinner , about two miles farther , wee past through Scarperia , from whence we mounted more and more up the Apennins , The way in some places but streight , & on the right hand is a very steep Precipes down to the plaine below . All that afternoon we rode up and down hills , which are as much fruitfull , as barren , and at night we lodgd at Fiorenzuolo , a Fortresse which stands in the midst of the Mountaines , at the confiues of the great Dukes Territoire . The next morning departing , long before break of day , ( as the Procaccios in Italy usually doe ) we perfectly discernd the flame of Pietra Mala , a Mountaine at the highest part of the Appinines , which perpetually burnes . All that forenoone wee had a tedious passage through the Chesnut woods , till wee came unto Pianora , where having dind , by a suddain descent passing a Torrent divers times , wee s●nk into the fertile and pleasant plaine of Bolonia , and so to the City it selfe , where we prevaild with our Conductor , to stay the rest of that day , and halfe the following , that wee might take a more full view of this famous City of Bolonia , the second in the Stato della Chiesa . It is situated at the foot of the Appenins , the neighbouring Countrey producing so great abundance of things necessarie to humane life , that it hath got the name Bolonia the Fat . For strength it is not much considerable , there being but a single wall without Bulwarks , Ramparts or the like , T is a fiter habitation for the Muses , then for Mars , the fame of that University which flourisheth there , making this Motto common , BOLONIA DOCET . Amongst the things I tooke notice of at Bolonia , the first is the generall uniformity in the buildings , there running before all the houses , a very stately Cloyster , with Arches all of the same structure , so that a large street appeares one building , which manner though it differ from the ordinary Italian way , yet is no lesse admirable Amongst other faire edefices of this City , the Popes Pallace very spacious , is chiefe , over the Gate is the statue of a Pope in mettall . Before this Pallace is the Piazza , as remakable as most in Italy : In the midst stands a very sumptuous Fountaine , where the Brasen Neptune made by John of Bolonia , a famous Sculpturer is very considerable , at one end of this Place is the Dome , not yet finisht . The great Schooles are said to be as stately as most in Europe . And likewise the Hospitalls are worth seeing The Convents at Bolonia are generally very glorious , especially S. Dominick , and out of the Town S. Michael in Bosco . In briefe , the Bolonians agree with the other Italians , in having their houses built decently , and in their Courts , still have some Verts set , as Orange trees , Cypresses , or the like , which much pleaseth the eye of a stranger , as he passeth the streets . In the heart of the City , stands the Tower of the Asinelli : ( cald so from a Family that rai'sd it ) some making Bolonia to represent the forme of a ship , set this for the maine Mast . It is growne somewhat to decay through time , and the staires are very rotten , however , wee adventurd to goe up to the top , and from thence wee had a full view of the Towne below , with the streets lying in a straight line , as likewise a faire Prospect on the plaines of Lombardy . On one side of this Tower , is another cald Garisenda , which seemes to fall much after the manner of the Campanile , at Pisa , some impute it to the Architecture , others say it was of the same height with that of the Asinelli ; but the Citizens fearing it would fall , pull'd downe the upper part , and left the rest standing crooked , as at the present it doth . This is the summe of what I saw in Bolonia , yet berore I went from thence , I tooke a taste of those famous Saltsages , that are compos'd at Bolonia , the which are transported thence , not onely into other places of Italy , but also into diverse parts of Europe , as a rare and costly dish , which addes and maintaines her Epithite Bolonia La Grassa . Leaving Bolonia for our more free entrance into the State of Venice , wee tooke a Bill of Health . The first day we past the Canall , that goes to Ferrara , having our boate drawne by a Horse , in which way we went through about nine Sustegne , Machines not much unlike our Sluses , to keep up and let down the water for the turning of all sorts of Milles , and the passage of Boates . Towards Evening wee past by Bentivoglio , a Castle that gave denomination to the learned Cardinall of that name . Some two houres later , wee came to Mal Albergo , an infamous Inne , both in name and in deed , where having poorely supt , wee imbarqu't in another lesse Boate , and having past all night through the fennes , The next morning we arriv'd at Ferrara . Ferrara heretofore a Dutchy by it selfe , yet now subject to the Apostolique See , is more considerable for strength , then beauty , however it is in Italy , and therefore ( secundum nos ) no meane City . It s scituation is on a plat , so that by it runnes two Channels , the one towards Bolonia , the other towards the Po , it is fortified with very faire Ramparts , upon most of which are planted Allies of trees . Within the Towne are some faire buildings , as the Palazzo del Diamante , belonging to the Duke of Modena , the Castle where , in the Court are pictur'd the Dukes of Ferrara , and t is said that at the last , there was no Roome left for another Before the Pallace are two small Statues of a Marquis , and Duke of Ferrara ; many other things are observable , as the Epitaph of the famous Poet Ariostus , and of many other famous men buried there , which my short stay would not admit me to collect . Our Inne was the Angelo ( a too sumptuous edifice to have been made a Taverne ) where having dind , wee went by boat downe the Channell , and about three mile beyond Ferrara came into the Po , which is the greatest and farthest navigable river in Italy , for breadth and length much above Tyber it selfe ; the ancients cald it Padus , the Poets Erydanus , on the Bankes whereof they feignd that , Io transformd into a heifer was want to feed . About evening wee came on the confines of the Venetian territoire , and supt at Corbua , a place three miles distant from that most ancient , yet now dejected City Adria , which formerly gave the name of Mare Adriaticum , to the Sea now cald the Golfe of Venice . Three miles farther , wee changd our Barke for a bigger Vessell , to carrie us to Venice , and having now past thirty miles on the Po , we came suddenly by an artificiall cut into the River Adice ( Athesis in Latin ) that passeth by Verona ; and the next morning , about the opening of the day , wee enterd into the Golfe , passing by Chioza , a City in an Island on the left , Palestina on the right , with other Islands that lay rang'd in a row to Venice it selfe , where , wee arriv'd the twelfth of September ; and being come to the Port , wee ( as the custome and order is ) were not permitted to set foot on shoare , on paine of death , till wee had a ticket of licence . Venetia , is a word never heard of in the Romans dayes , the originall of this name being not above thirteen Centuries of yeares since , yet Historians generally report , that at the decay of the Roman Empire , when the invasion of the Hunns and other Barbarous Nations overspread Italy ; Some provident Fishermen began to build Cottages in those scatterd Islands , and in processe of time , others for their better security retyr'd thither : From this poore , and low beginning ( imitating her elder sister ) is shee growne to that height , that all deservedly call her Venice the rich . This very mirrour of State and Policy , as shee was borne about the death of old Rome , so shee seemes ro bee hereditarily Possessour of that which maintaind Rome in her soveraigne glory ; The magnificent Genius of the People , the Gravity of the Senate , the solidity of her lawes , very much consonant with those of Rome . Hence Venice hath this propriety above all other States ; that she is a Virgin , ( a cōmodity rarely found within her self ) and more , from her first Infancy , Christian : having never yet fell from her principles , either in Government , or Religion ; but still valiantly defending her Liberty against the insulting Mahomet . Besides the wise and Judicious Potentates , that strengthen this Common-wealth , Nature hath fortified her with a strange and unusuall scituation — Mediâ insuperabilis undâ . Environd with her embracing Neptune ; to whom , ( as the Ceremonie of throwing a ring into the Sea implies ) she marries her selfe with yearly nuptialls . Hereupon our English Martiall admiring the scituation of the Magnificent Venetians City , sayes to them Quid mirum est vestram consistere Legibus Vrbem Legibus exleges cum teneaatis aquas . No wonder if by Lawes your City stands , Since out-law waves are chain'd to your Commands . If some casuall necessity did not constraine men to build Venice , I could never conceive how so stately Pallaces , how so compacted a City should stand in the midst of the Sea . At the end just before the Chiesa San Marco , are three Standards with Pedestalls of Brasse , very exquisite worke . At the right side from these , is the Clock-house , adorn'd with the signes of Heaven , with the Sunne and Moones monethly entrance to them , and two Statues of Brasse that strike . Saint Marks Church is not so admirable for vastenesse , as for the rarenesse of the designe , and precious materialls it is compos'd of . The whole facade , or Frontispiece , is beset with Pillars , of Serpentine and Porphyre , towards the top stand foure horse of Brasse , most worthy Trophees , taken ( as some say ) by a Stratageme , out of Constantinople . And first stood in an Arch-Triumphall at Rome . Amongst the imagiry worke on this Church , there stands a woman stroking a Dog ; The Venetian Annals mention the story , of a Senators Daughter , who ( her Father altogether , depriving her of society with men ) had a prodigious Birth by that over familiar Play-fellow . For the inward part of this Temple , It is a little obscure within , yet most richly wenescoted with Marbles , and the whole top coverd with lively pieces in Mosaick worke : An Art lost or unknowne in these parts , and highly valued there . Neere that Church gate , that lookes into the Sea , is a little Chappell , and therein is an ill hewd image of the Lady , made ( as their Tradition goes ) out of the same rocke , which Moses strooke when the water miraculously gushed forth ; And to make good this story , they shew three little holes out of which the Fountaine came forth . Some probability there may be of this , an old and now scarce legible Greeke Inscription , on the same stone beginneth thus — {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} . And underneath these Latine words , Aqua quae prius ex petra miraculosè fluxit oratione Prophetae Moysis , producta est , nunc autem haec Michaelis studio labitur , quem servas Christe & Conjugem Irenem . The construction is dubious the lines verbatim , as there I found them . In this same Church is kept with great reverence , the body of the Cities Protectour Saint Marke , whose winged Lion with the Motto , Pax tibi Marce Evangelista meus , is the Banner and Armes of this Common-wealth , In honour of this Saint , here is likewise conservd a most inestimable treasure . To this Cathedrall Church joynes the Dukes Pallace wholly of Marble , with a Kingly Arcade of three and thirty Pillars , under which , t is a most comely sight to see the Venetians in their long Gownes , daily consulting of State affaires . Just against the great Gate , at the top of the steps , stand two Colosses , the one of Mars , the other of Neptune , works of famous Sansovinus . Opposite to these staires is a Facade of Statues , both ancient and moderne . Above is a most royall Corridor ; wherein are divers Tribunalls , or Courts of Justice , and higher are most gallant ascents into the Senate house , and other sumptuous Halls . Below in the Court , in going out , I observd the mouthes of two Wells in Brasse , of very singular art . On the other side of the place is the Zecca , where they coine money , and the Procuratorio ; on the top of this structure stand five and twentie Statues . On the seventeenth of September , whilst wee were at Venice , there was a new made Procurator , ( the second man in the Republick ) enterd into his office , at which solemnity wee saw the Senatours in their robes of Scarlet , Damaske , three hundred most grave , proper persons , every one speaking himselfe no lesse then an Embassadour in his deportment . The following morning , the Secretarie of the State , of the Family of the Tommasini , for appearing a favourite to some Banditas , was privately strangled , and his body afterwards hung up in the place of execution , which place brings mee againe into my description , it being Between the two Pillars that stand towards the Canale della Giudeca . These two Colomnes were brought out of Greece , on the one stands the Statue of Sanct. Theodorus , with the Crocodile , on the other Saint Markes Lion of Brasse . This is the summe of what is to be noted within , and about the Piazza San Marco , yet before I leave it , t is worth the paines to get up Saint Marks steeple , which stands by it selfe , eightie feet distant from the Church . From thence one may discerne how the City lies compacted of many little Islands , separated by Channells , joyned by Bridges , the number whereof , if well reckoned up , comes to foure hundred and fifty , and the greater part of stone . The fairest and most remarkable is the Bridge of Rialto , which , though but of one Arch , yet for the height , length , and breadth , hath no where a parell . Upon it stand twelve shops , at each side coverd all alike with lead , and behind magnificent Balustrades . This Bridge passeth over the Canal Grande , along which are the most stately houses in all Venice . It is a most satisfactory sight to behold the Corso in this Channell , every Feast towards the Evening , to see the Venetian Ladies habited like Nymphs , and the Gondola's like so many Daulphines running a race . These Gondolas are Boats , which because of the little use of walking a foot there , are still carrying some passenger one way or another . Every noble Venetian keeps one of these Seacoaches for his family , and others there are to be hir'd by any man for money very genteel and commodious . Hence one may easily conjecture how populate Venice is ; for the number of Gondolas is 40000. so that in case of necessity ; the Boatmen would make a considerable army , for every Gondola hath a Rower , and the better sort too . And now I am on the water , before I set foot to land , I may visite some of the neigbouring Islands , and first Murano a mile distant from Venice . Here continually ( excepting in August and September ) are Fornaces to make Glasses , which for the variety of the worke , and the Chrystall substance , exceed all others in the world , and are transported to all parts : out of which merchandise Venice drawes infinite summes of money . In returning wee stept into the Arsenall , The Magazine and store-house of Warre , Mars his warehouse . In this place the Republick hath all ammunition for Sea and Land , all instruments of offence and Defence , all preparations for shipping so ready , that t is said they can raise a Gally in foure and twenty houres , and though the late approach of their common enemy the Turke , hath much impoverisht this Arsenal , yet the daily labours of Artisans that worke there , still restore it . The next day wee went to the Greek Church , where at their service in their owne tongue , there was a great Congregation , who us'd more Ceremonies , but lesse superstition then the Church of Rome , which calls the Greeks Schismaticks onely , because they differ not much in exteriours from them ; but will not acknowledge the Pope to bee head of the Church . Neither have the Orientall Christians alone this Liberty at Venice , but Loyalas Sonnes being exild thence , the Inquisition reacheth not so far as strangers , which made us Hereticks ( as they call us ) thinke wee were come out of the Land of Bondage , to a more secure Country . The day following wee made a Gondola carry us over to San Georgeo , an Island with a most beautifull Monastery ; The Chappell is pav'd ( as generally they are in Venice ) with a reddish Marble , About the Coire are very rare Statues , and in the Cloister , sits Venice Triumphant . From thence wee went to San Giovanni e Paulo , more in devotion to the living Ladies , then to the dead Image there worshipt . This Place is much frequented by the Venetian walking May Poles , I meane the women , which gives mee occasion to speake of the common habits or fashions of Venice . The Citizens rich and poore follow all the same Mode , viz : A long black gowne with wide sleeves , and a kinde of skirt to throw over one shoulder , the collar alwayes open , and a Black Cap edg'd with Fringe of Wooll . The Ladies have found out a devise very different from all other Europaeian Dresses . They weare their owne , or a counterfeit Haire below the shoulders , trim'd with gemmes , and Flowers their Coats halfe too long for their bodies , being mounted on their Chippeens , ( which are as high as a mans leg ) they walke between two handmaids , majestickly deliberating of every step they take . This fashion was invented , and appropriated to the noble Venetians wives , to bee constant to distinguish them from the Courtesans , who goe coverd in a vaile of white Taffety . These fashions , because they are not so variable as ours , I have here inserted . Before the Church I last mentioned , San Giovannie Paulo is a Cavalier , or horseman in Brasse , with these words . Bartholomeo Coleono Bergomensi ob militare Imperium optime gestum S C. Joanni Mauro , & Marino Venereo Curatoribus An : Sal : Mcccclxxxxv. This is the chiefe of what I observ'd in three weeks residence at Venice . As concerning the trade , or traffique of this City , shee is without Doubt , Mistris of all others ; it is shee that makes rise or fall the Exchange at her pleasure . And this I imagine proceeds from the great and innumerable company of Jewes , that are harbourd here , and that enjoy the Priviledge of a Synagogue for every Nation ; so that in their Guetta they have nine diverse ones , yet weare they a Badge of distinction , viz : a Scarlet hat . The shops at Venice are most richly furnisht with Easterne Merchandize , as Sattins , Damasks , Cloaths of Gold , with a world of costly Drugs , which word intimates I must hasten to the Medicinall Padua . From Venice to Padua , because of the convenient passage by water , is one easie dayes journey . About five miles from Venice wee came to Liza Fusina , where the continent or firme Land beginnes , here one finds commodity of going either by Land or Boate , wee tooke the latter ; a most delightfull Spasso on the river Brenta , which runnes in so direct a line , that one may see its course foure miles behind or before one , on both sides is a garden-like countrey , and a multitude of Villa's , or Countrey houses , with Gardens of Orange trees , and other greens after the Italian way . At the close of the evening wee arriv'd at Padua . Patavium was founded , long before Romulus suckt the Wolfe , T is reported that Antenor flying with some force into these parts , after the destruction of Troy began this name and city ; to confirme this , they yet shew this Noble Heros Tombe , with this Epitaph in old Characters . Inclitus Antenor Pat: &c. The words are these . C Inclytus Antenor Patriam Vox Nisa Quietem , Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumque Fugas , Expulit Euganeos , Patavinam condidit Vrbem ; Quem tegit hic humili marcaesa Domus . The Monument whereon these verses are ingraven stands by S. Lorenzos Church , in this figure . As in the page following . Antenors Tombe {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} Not farre from this Marble Chest , are some remnants of the walls that Antenor laid ; For the city is divided into the old , and the new , the old hath round about it the river , both are encompast with strong Bull-warkes , upon which are planted rowes of trees , very pleasant to walke amongst , though they quite hinder the view of the city a farre off . Neither indeed ( I must confesse ) doth Padua abound with stately houses , like the other chiefe Cities of Italy , yet those renowned disciples of Aesculapius that are nourisht there , make it to be said both at home and abroad , Padua the Learned . It stands in a most delicious and fertile Plaine , which produceth so great abundance of things necessary to humane life ; that the vulgar Proverb goes Bolonia la grassa ma Padoua la passa . By reason of this plenty of provisions , and the daily practise in Physick , and the other liberall Arts this city is no lesse frequented by strangers , then Athens anciently was . And indeed those who have been students at Padua , have reason to commend the place , for by the Senate of Venice's constitution ( under whom Padua is ) every Nation , English , Dutch , &c. hath a Consul , enjoyes many Priviledges , and by their matriculation may lay in provisions , without paying any excise or taxation . This liberty is very prevalent to draw Forreigners thither , yet the ill Government of the Schollars there much disswades others from likeing the place . It is strange to finde Minerva so joynd with Mars , to see students in so warlike a posture , for the common mode of the Schollars is to goe arm'd with a paire of Pistolls , and a Stilletto by his side , this they say proceeds from some old and inbred dissentions between the Vicentines and Brescians , which two parties so fill the towne with slaughter , that no man can walke the streets late at night for fear of their Chi-va li ? and which is a more manifest signe of their Barbarismes on the Pillars of the Porch , or Arches that runne before the houses of this city , one may discerne where Bullet have past ; nay , so triviall is homicide amongst them that if at any time they want a body for the Anatomy Lecture , they make it a small busines to kil a poore fachin , or porter to put his body to that use . Notwithstanding these grosse abuses , yet Padua is a very worthy University . It was Vacation time when wee were there , however wee stept into the Schooles . Over the Gate is the Lion San Marco , and this Inscription . Sic ingredere ut teipso quotidie doctior , sic egredere ut indies Patriae Christianaeque Reipublicae utilior evad●s . Ita Demum Gymnasium a se feliciter Ornatum existimabit . MDC . Within is a square Court , the building two stories of Pillars , one over another , and round about in every corner are the Armes of all such as have been Consulls in that University ; Some in colours onely , others in colours and stone , with the countrey , name , and yeare ; all which is made at the expence of the Venetian , to make famous this nursery of learning . Above is the Anotomick Theatre a very neat , and singular invention ; commodious both for the Professour , and his Spectatours . Not farre from the Physick Schooles is the Palagio della Ragione , or Hall of Justice , which considered as an upper Roome is the fairest and most spacious in Christendome . Some impose more on the excellency of this Fabrick , then can be discernd by a common eye , alledging t is plac't to the foure parts of the heaven , so that in the Equinoctiall the beames of the Sunne rising , entring at the East windowes strike those at the West , and in the Solstice , the rayes that come in at the South , touch the opposite window , in a word , there is no part without some Astronomicall secret . The pictures represent the influence of higher bodies on these below . It is coverd with lead , round about goes a stately Corridor of Marble . Over every dore , is some Remembrance of those men who for their Birth have celebrated Padua . Amongst these is that immortall Treasure of History and Eloquence , Livie . In whose never fading memory there is , ( at one end of this hall ) a monument erected , and this old inscription added thereunto . VE TLIVIVS LIVIAE . TF QVARTAEl HALYS CONCORDIALIS SIBI ET SVIS OMNIBVS . T. Livius 4o Imperii Tib ▪ Caesaris ano vita excessit aetatis vero suae LXXVI . There is likewise a Poeticall Elegie , but I passe by this new monument , with all the appertenances of the same , to come to Livies old Tombe , which is there extant in this forme . As in the page following . OSSA T LIVII PATAIVNI VNIVS OIVM MORTALIVM IVDICIO DISINI CVIVS PROPE INVICTO CALAMO INVICTI P. R. RES GESTAO CONSCRIBERENTVR To this Westminster Hall at Padua , joynes the Podestas Pallace . The Podesta is he who represents the Senate ; and executes their power ; In most of the cities under the State of Venice there is one . There is likewise a Capitan Grande . He lookes after the military affaires , the other the Politicall . Many houses in Padua are worth seeing , as the Captaines lodging in the Piazza . At the Palazzo di Foscari all Arena , are some Vestigia of a Theater . In the Garden of Mantua are divers singularities ; Amongst others a huge Colosse of Hercules , with these words . Hercules Buphiloponus Bestiarius , Qui tristitiam Orbis depuli● omnem Peramplo hoc signo Mantuae cura reflorescat . One day walking to some of those places , I espi'd a good faire Chappell put to no better use then a Barne , asking the reason , t was told me it had been a Jesuites Church ; an argument that those Religious States-men are not welcome where the Venetians sway the sword ; neither indeed have the Loyalists one Colledge in the Venetian Cities . As for the Churches of Padua , that of Saint Anthony deserves the first place . Before the dore is a Man and Horse of Brasse , within is a most precious Altar , under which lies the body of S. Anthony , about is his life and miracles in figures of Marble , cut by the most famous Masters of those times , or ( I thinke ) that ever were , or will be . Hard by this Church is Il prato della Valle a Medow , at the end whereof stands that most wealthy and Kingly Convent of S. Justine , the best and stateliest I can remember I sawin Italy . The Chappell is an incomparable piece . In the Cloysters an Antiquary might spend a yeares study ; for amongst the Legend stories design'd on the walls , they have inserted hundreds of old Inscriptions , with the Draughts of old stones , and pieces of Urnes , all which were dug up out of the ground , when the Foundations of this Convent were first laid A little farther is the Physick Garden , fild with simples , but the Euganean Hills furnish Padua more abundantly with medecinall Herbes . These hills are in view from Padua , and have been alwayes famous for the Medecinall Bathes , that proceed from them . Having spent a week in Padua , the Gentlemen wee left at Venice , came thither ( viz : Sir J. G. a Northerne Baronet , and my Lord B. his eldest Son ) with whom wee joynd company to goe thorough Lombardy , and so over the Alpes into France . From Padua we hird a Coach to Verona ; In our first dayes journey we had nothing to observe but the Fertility and pleasantnesse of the Country , neither could I imagine my selfe anywhere but in Lombardy . Had not the People , Language , Manners , seemd Italian , I might have thought my selfe to have been out of Italy ; so great an alteration is there in the Landskip betwixt this , and the other side of the Appenines . The meliority of either I dispute not , they being equally good , yet contrary , that mountanous , this flat . The latter is cald Lombardy , and under that name is comprehended the whole plaine betwixt the Alpes , and the Appenines . It was almost Vintage time when wee past through this Paradise , and it made my journey much easier , to see the trees rangd in order so farre as one can see , to looke on the Vines embracing the Elmes , with such an incredible quantity of grapes , that they are coverd more with Purple , then green . Et Tellus Bacchi pondere pressa gemens . Besides this wee lodgd every night in some memorable City , where wee sound good accommodation , and something observable . The first day some houres before it grew darke , we were in Vicenza . Vicenza , in Latine Vicentia , was according to Livie built by the Galli Senones in the Reigne of Tarquinius Priscus , since that time it hath without doubt sufferd many changes . It is now under the Venetians , and stands in the Marquisate of Treves . It is neither fortified , nor capable of Fortification , it being situated at the bottome of a hill that commands the Towne , however the fidelity of the Inhabitants keep it in safety . The Vicentins delight to goe abroad in the world , to see forreigne customes ( an humour seldome found in other Italians ) so that at their returne home they live splendidly , goe richly appareld , keep many followers ; for which cause this city is reputed very full of Gentry , & those rich , the common title to a Gentleman here being Signor Conte , as much as my Lord . Neither are they lesse noble in their Buildings then in their Garbe ; for by the art of Palladius , the late Reviver of the Roman Architecture a Vicentin , this city is beautified with stately Pallaces publick , and private . The Hall of Justice is admirable , both for the Ancient and moderne structure , the Tower lofty , the Piazza most capacious of Turnaments , and other assemblyes of the Gentry , Who are much given to shewes and Pastimes ; and to this purpose they have erected a Theatre , the figure whereof I conceive to bee like those of the ancienr Romans , though the materialls differ , Palladius was the Inventor , as this Inscription over the stage , testifieth . Virtuti ac Genio . Olympior : Academia Theatrum hoc a Fundamentis erexit . Paladio Archit : Anno 1584. It will hold five thousand persons , the Scene is very well contrived with Statues , and Corinthian Order , the Prospective represents a Kingly City . Diverse like places of recreation there are , within and about the City , amongst which is the Campo Marzo made in imitation of that , anciently at Rome , for to exercise the youth in Chevalry , thither the Ladies and Gallentry of the City resort , in the sommer Evenings to take the Aire . The Arch or entrance into this Field will stand as a perpetuall monument of Palladius that built it . Just opposite is the Garden of Connt Valmarana , wherein the close Walke of Citron and Orange trees , together with the Labyrinthe are things very commendable . Going forth at the gate di Monte , one sees another Arch of Palladius , with a most high paire of staires to the top of the Madonna Del Monte . Halfe a mile farther by the river side ( which river was in Latin cald Meduacus Minor ) is the Rotonda of Conte Mario Capra so cald from the Cupola at the top , or likenesse it hath with the Pantheon at Rome , though in my opinion it more resembles the Temple of Janus Quadrifrons , for it hath foure faces and foure Gates . Palladius made this his Master-piece ; for t is so contriv'd , that it containes Geometrically a Round , a Crosse , and a Square . The Master of this house uses all strangers very civilly . His Sellars are the best , and the best furnished I met with , neither is he sparing of his Wines to Travellers ; As wee were returning from this house to our Inne , wee met with him and his followers attending him , one of them who spake French sayd , his Master desir'd to see us at his house to morrow , but our short stay would not permit us to accept of that kind invitation , I infer this passage to shew the generous Minds of the Vicentines . The next morning wee left Vicenza very early , dind at Osteria Nuova the midway : And about foure in the afternoone wee came unto Verona . T is the vulgar Criticisme on this Name , that if it bee syllabizd , it comprehends the first letters of the three head Cities of Italy Ve-Venetia . Ro-Roma . Na . Others leave the verball dirivation , and more strictly interpret it , that whatsoever is containd in those three Cities may bee found in Verona . Her wealth may be compar'd to that of Venice ; Her Monuments of Antiquity equall even those of Rome , neither is the delightfull situation inferiour to that of Naples . Thus much I must needs say , were I to see Italy againe , I should make my Station at Verona , for I know no place more agreeable or commodious for a stranger . The City stands one part on the side , the other at the foot of a hill , behind which is a continuation of huge Mountaines . Before one side of the City lies a rich Plat Countrey ; Before the other a stony Champion , or Downes , wherein C. Marius gave a totall overthrow to the Cimbrians . The River Athesis divideth the City in the midst . Thus nature hath adornd Her , neither hath art been wanting to glorifie her , and this one may collect from the mighty remnants of Roman Magnificence , that yet stand within her walls . I may say with Martiall , — Vnum pro cunctis fama loquatur Opus . Of the Amphitheatre at Verona , the most perfect that is to be seen this day in Christendome , the figure whereof I have here set downe . As in the page following . The Amphitheatre at Verona Arena This noble worke was spoild of all its ornaments by the Barbarous that sackt Italy , yet one may easily judge , how betwixt the Arches and the Columnes there were statues . In the circuit of this Moles are three Porches , one within another , made for the Spectatours to goe in , and out without disturbance to any one In the midst is the Arena , where the Combatants fought in an ovale forme , foure and thirty perches long , large two and twenty , environed with two and forty seats , which lie gradatim , one above another , still extending to the top . In these Cirques the vastnesse of Marble stones is incredible , so bigge that one cannot conceive how they were transported thither . This worke was perfected by L. V. Flaminius Cousul Anno Vrb : Cond. 53. Many other signes of Venerable Antiquity are there in Verona , as Arches-Triumphalls , ruines of Temples , Aquiducts , Urnes and the like . There 's one Arch Triumphall dedicated to Marius for his victory over the Cimbrians . And although this City bee not now of so great a compasse as Historians report , it was in the height of the Roman Empire , yet the Venetians have with great expence joynd new Bulwarkes and walls unto the old , and it is fencd with three Castles , which make it as well impregnably strong , as delightfull . The buildings of this City are answerable to the Italian . The fairest is the Councell house , upon the roofe whereof stand expos'd to the open ayre the Statues of Cornelius Nepos , Emilius Marcus , old Poets . Pliny the Naturall Historiographe , Vetruvius the Architecture , all which men graced their native Verona by their singular Vertues . Besides these , the Learned Scaliger was of Verona , for whose sake and his Family i Signori della Scala , there is ( in the heart of the city , before the Inne wee lay at Il Cavaletto ) a stately Tombe of Marble , encompast with Iron worke , in the fashion of a Ladder , which that name implies . These things wee saw before it grew darke at Verona , which wee left the next morning , having renewed our bargaine with the same Coach that brought us thither , to carry us to Milan . At our going out of the Towne , I saw a Porphire Tombe in a Church yarde , t was told me that a King of the Goths lay buried there . Looking into the River Athesis , I espied a Bridge of old Roman work , and some Engines which convey water out of the river in to the city by Pipes . When wee parted from Verona , and indeed through all the Venetian State , our Matriculations wee had from Padua did us much service , for by that meanes none of the Guard , would dare to hinder us as they usually doe strangers . Two miles beyond Verona wee past over the Downes , memorable for the Battells of Marius . About noone wee came to Cavalli Caschieri , an Inne two miles short of Peschiera , which is a most strong Fort of the Venetians , standing at the Embushment of the Lago di Garda into that of Mantua . The greater part of the afternoone , wee past by the side of the Lake , which by the Ancients ws cald Benaca . From Peschiera it extends it selfe towards the North five and thirty miles . T is very rough and tempestuous , as Virgil saith , Fluctibus & fremitu assurgens Benaca marino . Which I believe proceeds from its enclosure , between mountaines which stop up the winde , yet being fenct so with Alpes which keep of the Northerne blasts , and warmd by the reflection of the Sunne , those hills produce great store of Olive , Citron , and Orange trees . The Lake abounds with fish , especially with Troutes , equall to them of the Lake of Geneva , which wee tasted of that night at supper at Lunato . In the midst of the Lago di Garda , is an Island wherein stands Sermonea . The next day wee had very bad Coach way , yet at dinner time wee were at Brescia , where because of bad weather wee tarried that day . Brescia , ( by the Romans Brixia ) may be cald the Venetians Magazine , here is a perpetuall appearance of Warre though they live in peace , every shop is stord with Armes ; In a word ▪ the chiefe traffick of this place are Swords , Muskets , and other military Engines , from whence t is vulgarly cald Brescia the Armed . It hath a plaine on all sides , excepting towards the Castle which stands on Hill ; behinde which are very high Mountaines ; By reason of this vicinity to the Hills the City is beautified with many Fountaines , a commodity which few of the Cities in Lombardy have . In some of the streets there runnes Porches , whereby one may walke drye in rainy weather . The Torre della Pallada is of rare Tuscan structure , the Piazza is but little , yet the Towne house may be reckoned amongst the fairest of Italy The Dome was a repairing when I was there . In that is kept a skie colour Crosse , which they hold to be the same which appeard to Constantin . There is little observable , ( onely some Churches ) at Brescia ; which we left the next morning , and dind at Vrsa Vecchio ; after dinner wee past by Vrsi Novi , a strong Garrison in the Venetian Frontiers that way . A little farther , having past the river Oglio , we went by Soncino , the first place where wee saw the Armes of Spaine over the Gates , a signe wee were come into the State of Milan , but wee soone were out of it again , for that night wee lay at Crema , which is under the Signory of Venice : It stands in a plaine very well fortified with Ramparts and a Mote . The Dome , the Tower , the Place , and the Podestas Pallace are worth seeing . The next morning foure miles beyond Crema wee enterd into the State of Milan , and past by Lodi , a great City on the side of the River Ada , this City is famous , for the cheeses made there which are not much different from the Parmisano , Lodi was cald by the Romans Laus Pompeia . From Lodi wee went to dinner at Marignano ten miles from Milan ; All which way the Countrey is more Garden-like then in any part of Lombardy , the high wayes are as streight as one can imagine , on both sides runne Channells of water , on both sides trees planted , and in the fields there is Corne , Wine , Fruits , and Medowes altogether , till wee came to the very gates of Milan . Milan for the mighty circuit of her walls , the great number of Churches , is before any other City in Italy said to be the Great . The Metropolis of either France , or England , either Paris or London , goe much beyond it for bignesse , yet they must be lookt on as Heads of Kingdomes , this as the Capitall of a Dutchy or Province , besides their chiefest greatnesse is in their Suburbs , Milan hath none at all , but lies within a stately wall of ten miles compassc . T is plac't in a wide plaine , and hath about it green Hills , delightfull Medowes , Navigable Rivers , and enjoyeth a wholsome Ayre , the territory doth so well furnish it with all necessary provisions , that t is worth a dayes journey onely to see the Market of Milan . Neither doth it want Trade to support it in a flourishing condition , for t is so throngd with Artisans of all sorts , that the vulgar Proverb goes Chi volesse Rassettare Italia rouinarebbe Milano . For the Antiquity of this place Mediolanum its ancient appellation speakes it old , and some pieces of Roman edefices , yet standing there confirme the same . Before San Lorenzo's Church stand sixteene Marble Pillars , a a remnant of the Temple of Hercules , at one end of them is this Inscription put in . Imp : Caesari . L. Aurelio vero Aug : Arminiaco Medico Parthico Max : Trib : Pot : VII IMP : IIII Cos. III PP Divi Antonini Pii Divi Hadriani Nepoti : Divi Trajani Parthici ProNepoti Divi Nervae . Abnepoti DEC DEC . Since Milan shooke off Paganisme to imbrace the faith of Christ , that glorious Pillar of the Church , Saint Ambrose was her Bishop . To whom there is a Church dedicated vulgo Sanct ' Ambrogio . Under the high Altar supported by foure Porphyre Pillars , is interred the body of Saint Ambrose ; t is beleev'd that Saint Ambrose stood at the gates of this Church , when he excommunicated Theodosius the Emperour , and would not suffer him to enter therein . Hard by is a poore Chappell in a blinde corner , with a Well , where Saint Ambrose baptiz'd Saint Augustine , and began the Te Deum , as the Inscription on the wall witnesseth . Hic Beatus Ambrosius baptisat Augustinum , Deodatum & Alippum , Hic Beatus Ambrosius incipit Te Deum laudamus . Augustinus sequitur Te Dominum Confitemur . This place is so meane , and so little regarded , that t is very probably true ; for t is incredible how the name of Carolus Baromaeus a Councell of Trent Saint , highly cryd up at Milan , hath extinguisht the memory of that learned Father . In S. Eustorgios Church is to be seen the Sepulcher wherein lay the bodies of the three Magi ; the bodies were transported to Colen in Germany , but there remaies the Tombe in this forme . SEPVLCHRVM TRIVM MAGORVM Most of the Churches in Milan deserve the eye of the curions , yet all may bee included in the Dome or Cathedrall , for the Fabrick ; the most like ours of any I saw in Italy ; yet for the materialls more costly . T is all of white Marble , and about it , are five hundred Statues of the same . The Addition that is now in building is very glorious , especially for the huge Pillars of Granito , a sort of Marble very common at Milan . About the body of the Church , are set up pictures of the miracles wrought by Saint Charles Barromee . And in a Chappell under Ground is devoutly worshipt the body of that new founded Saint , with a Treasure of rich presents . As these divine buildings are glorious , so the private mens houses of Milan are not inferiour to those of other Cities in Italy ; The streets are of a more then common breadth , and there are very many gardens within the walls . The fairest Pallace in Milan ( I may say in Italy ) is the great Hospitall , a square of Columnes and Porches six hundred Rods about ; fitter to be the Court of some Kings then to keep Almes men in ; yet no use can it be put to better then to feed the Hungry and cloath the naked . Next to this I reckon the Castle accounted by all Engineers the fairest , the strongest Fortification or Citadell in Europe . They are very cautelous in letting strangers to see it , to cast an eye on the outworkes is a crime , wherefore I omit any farther description . Foure dayes past while wee were visiting these things , I have set down at Milan . After this repose , wee began to bethinke our selves of the laborious taske we had to undertake , to get over the neighbouring mountaines the Alpes . Milan is the rise for two passages , either by mount Goodard , or Sampion , the first is through Switzerland , tedious and long ; the other is through Valesia more delightsome , and short . Wee meeting opportunely with a guide who had been conversant in the way by Sampion , made our agreement with him , that hee should beare all our charges , for horse , Diet , and lodging , till wee came to Geneva , wee paying him eight pistolls a man . The passage over the Alpes . Our first dayes journey to Sesto at the foot of the Alpes was by Coach , wee dind in the midway Alla Castellanza ; Three miles short of Sesto , t is very remarkable to see how on a suddaine the Alpes break off the flat Countrey , like a wall to part Italy from her neighbours France and Germany . Thereabouts wee had in full view the Mount San Bernardo Il grande , the highest Terrasse in Europe . And wee could perfectly discerne it about foure English miles to out top the Cloudes . That night wee lay at Sesto . The next morning before break of day , wee tooke boate to passe over the Lago Maggiore ( in Latine Verbanus Lacus ) so cald not that t is the biggest amongst the Alpes ; but because the River Ticinus passeth through it into the Po , so that all Merchandise is thereby transported out of Helvetia , Six mile beyond Seflo , wee past by Arona a strong towne in the Dutchy of Milan , three yeares since besieged by the French ; it stands on the side of the Lake , and against it is Angiera . All that morning wee had a pleasant passage going Terr' a Terra , till about three in the afternoone wee came to Marguzzo a poore village at the end of the Lake . Here began the difficulty of our voyage , wee could see nothing but a Series of Rockes , heapt to the skies upon one another , yet to get over wee are constraind . From Marguzzo wee had horses to Duomo , that forenoone was not so tedious as wee expected it would have been , for wee rode rather through then over the Mountaines in a very fruitfull though narrow valley . Having dind at Duomo wee changd horse , and so the way required ; being mounted we presently got two miles higher where wee met with extreame hazardous way , and deep Precipices to boot . ( Believe mee Hanniball had a most hard taske to lead an army over the Alpes — Difficilis est ad Astra Via . ) Our horses though tract up in those pathes , seemd to tell their steps and pick out their footing ; however in this slow pace wee got safe to Vedra sixe mile beyond Duomo , the last village in Dutchy of Milan . The next morning about three mile farther , wee enterd into the Paese de' Valesi ; a most barbarous disconsolate place , a Habitation for Wolves and Beares . Our terminus Visus was most hideous Mountaines , coverd with snow , on all sides terrible Precipices , monstrous Rockes , passages over narrow Bridges , Cataracts of water , tumbling downe with such noise that wee could not heare one another speake . This strange and unusuall Landskip continued not above five houres , but presently wee met with a new People , a new Phisiognomy , a new genius , a new Dresse , a new Language . Yet the first words wee heard , wee even understood Com Heyn Gots name , and Got tanke heir . These Monticoli are in all things consonant with the Switzers stout , lusty fellowes , yet very dull and ignorant . They weare long Breeches , and rough Bands , their tongue is a broken Dutch . That which they are most commendable for is their Honesty , a man may travell over all their Country with Gold in his hand . Their women speake more of the Male then their owne , the female sex . Having with much paines , yet delight , because of the variety , crouded through some of the Alpes , wee came to dinner at Sampion , at the top of the Mountaine , to which that Village gives the denomination . This mount Sampion was by the Latins cald Mons Sempronius After dinner we had the hardest part of our journey to passe over , and then wee were worst of all provided ; the poverty of the place could not afford us either Saddles or bridles to our Jades , yet necessitie drives and away wee must . Wee were now at the very top of the Alpes ; nothing to bee seen but snow , which hath laid there beyond the memory of man , and as some say ever since the flood . There are Poles set up to direct the way to passengers , yet in the very path our horses went so deep that few or none of us scapt without a fall . In some parts of the yeare , as December , January and February this mountaine is impassable , The best time is in September , October or November . After wee had past over the snow which was but for foure mile or thereabouts , wee were forc't to alight , to crawle down the steeper part of the Mountaine ; When our Guide desird us to horse againe , it hapned one unruly Jade broke loose and ran away . T was my ill Fortune to be set upon a Mule , an untamable headstrong beast , which seeing the other Horse , a great way before , ranne headlong up and downe , and carried the Rider over such terrible places that all the company gave mee for lost : When the horse and my Mule stayd of themselves my fellow Travellers , overtooke mee , so that evening wee reacht to Briga , at the bottom of the Sampion which was the end of our Alpine voyage . Hereabouts the Rivers , the Rhene and the Rhosne , have their fountaines but neither are Navigable . The rest of our way to the Lake of Geneva , was amongst Alpes but not over any . There running along a rich valley between two huge Mountaines . From Briga wee lay the next night at Sion ( Sedunnm in Latine ) being from Briga six Switzer mile , thirty Italian . Sion is the head City of Valesia , the Bishop hath both the Spirituall and Temporall Jurisdiction . From Sion wee lay at Martigni . The next morning wee past by Saint Mauritz , a little farther wee went through a gate that divideth the Vallois from the Dutchy of Savoy : wee dind at Montei , and in the afternoone wee came to Boveretta , and there hir'd a Boate , to passe by the Lake unto Geneua . The Lake of Geneva , heretofore Lacus Lemanus is held to be the biggest in Christendome , on one side it hath the Switzers and France , on the other the Savoyarde , and at that end where it looseth it selfe in the Rhodanus stands the City that christens it Geneva , where wee arrivd the sixteenth of October : the eighth day from the time we sate out of Milan . Geneva ( ancienty head of the Allobroges ) would bee but an obscure Towne were not Fame her friend . Yet is she placed in such a corner of the World , that she seemes to lye Geografically in the Center between Germany , France , and Italy . For this reason t is suppos'd Master Calvin began to preach up his Reformation , in this City before any other , not through any splendour in the place , but that some might come from all parts to follow his Doctrine . And now by Gods protection I am in no Roman , though Catholicke state , no Inquisition to lay hold of my words , or writings ; I may set downe that which a Marble Table hath in letters of Gold , on the Towne-house at Geneva Thus . Post tenebras Lux . Quum Anno 1535. profligata Romana Antichristi tyrannide , abrogatisque ejus superstitionibus , Sacrosancta Christi Religio Hic in suam puritatem , Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem , singulari Dei beneficio Reposita , & simul pulsis fugatisque hostibus Vrbs ipsa in suam Libertatem non sine insigni Miraculo restituta fuerit . Senatus Populusque Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuae memoriae causa fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit : Quo suam erga Deum gratitudinem ad Posteros Testatam fecerit . Before their eyes were opened by Master Calvins Sermons , The Motto of the Genevists was Post Tenebras spero Lucem , since it is alterd to Post Tenebras Lux . God will confound great things by small , else t is miraculous how those seeds of the Gospell , which were first sow'd in this Towne , should spread it selfe into many parts of the world Maugre Rome and her adherents . This advantage Geneva hath by its situation , the better sort speake or understand any of these three Languages , French , Dutch , Italian , so that every weeke there are Sermons in them all . Amongst the Divines of Geneva , Deodatus is their great Patron , a great Schollar , and a pricking thorne in the Jesuites sides . For the Ecclesiasticall Government of Geneva , it is Presbyterian such as Calvin instituted . For the Politicall , I conceive it to depend on Aristocracy . Their State ( excepting some private men ) hath hardly wealth to subsist , yet every Citizen will lay downe his life and meanes for to maintaine their Cause , and Liberty . They keep contiauall watch and ward , and not without reason for their owne territory about the City , exceeds not the Lands of many Countrey Gentlemen about their houses . The Savoyards very often make suddain Incursions , so farre that they shewed us where they once had scal'd the Walls , but were repulst . Yet if the Duke of Savoye prohibit his Subjects to carry Provisions into Geneva . The Genevists presently can sallie forth , and take their Cattle or the like by force . For there is no Castle neere to counterpoise the strength of Geneva . Besides this , in cases of necessity they have the three Protestant Cantones to help them , with whom they are confederates , as this Inscription standing in the Towne house witnesseth . D. O. M. S. Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri Libertate Genevae restituta L. Quasi novo Jubilaeo ineunte Plurimis vitatis Domi & foris InsidIs , & superatis Tempestatibus , & Helvetiorum . Primar I Tigurini aequo jure in Societatem perpetuam nobiscum venerint , & veteres fidissimi Soci Bernenses prius vinculum novo adstrinxerint S. P. Q. G. Quod Felix eSe velit DOM . tanti Beneficii Monumentum consecrarunt Anno Temporis Vltimi MDXXCIV . There is little remarkable in the City except in the Towne-house there are kept fourteen Urnes , which were dug up as they were raising the workes of the City . S. Peters Church is their chiefe . The houses in Geneva are generally well built , but through most of the streets is a Timber worke very offensive to the eye , for it hinders the view of the houses , neverthelesse t is convenient to keep out raine . The greatest Merchandise Geneva sends to other parts is Bookes of all sorts . This is the summe of what I tooke notice of in those few dayes I spent at Geneva . From thence I made the quickest dispatch I could to Paris , and so to my Native home . But t is now high time to set my last period to this Itinerary of my Italian voyage . FINIS . AN APPENDIX ON THE Same Subject . FOr the Readers fuller satisfaction ; and to leave no part of this Empresse of the World undescribed ; I have here annexed a captiulation of those Places which I casually omitted to see , partly collected from my discourse with Italians , partly from my converse with forreigne Authors of this nature . In my first Digression the City Lucas is most obvious . This Republickes dominions lie Promiscuously in those of the Duke of Florence's , and containe not above two dayes journey in circuit , yet the vigilancy of the State under his Catholike Majesties Protection , defends their Liberties against all Opposers . To maintaine their freedome more powerfully , the Luchesi have reduc't this City to that strength as few in Italy can equall it . It stands on a flat some few miles distant from a Branch of the Appenines . The compasse is but small ( as Places of most hard accesse alwaies are ) the whole not exceeding three mile ; which is inclos'd and fenc't with gallant Walls and eleven Bulwarkes . There is little observable within the City except the Pallace , Counsell-Hall , Arcenall , and in the Dome the Volto Santo , which ( pardon the tradition ) was set miraculously on an Image of our Saviour , carv'd by Nicodemus his Disciple , whilst the Artist was surmizing after what forme to expresse that sacred face . The Inhabitants are very affable to strangers ( as I have been informd ) so that some chuse to stay there , and their Language is much consonant with the Sanesian . The Territory of Luca by the Country mans industry , abounds in fruits , Olives especially , which are famous here with us . Out of Luca towards Pistoia , in the high way there runnes a Rivolet of salt Water , and from the same Source ( as is imagind ) issue those Renowned Bathes ; to goe to which from Luca one passeth , over the River Serchio upon two Bridges of admirable Structure . Advancing towards Rome , t is worth stepping out of the way to Perugia , and Orvietta Both under the Patrimony of Saint Peter . The first Perugia gives Denomination to the Lacus Thrasimenus , though six miles distant . Here precisely was fought that memorable Battell Between Hanniball and the Romans the latter routed . Perusia stands on a high hill , hath but poore Walls , the Citadell well fortified , the Fountaine , the Popes Pallace , and the Schooles deserve seeing , yet I heard of nothing more remarkable there , then the delicious muscatelle Wine . Orvietta is a great Towne on a Mountaine too ; There is in this City one most singular Piece to satisfie Curiosity , and that is the Well , made so that they goe down by one side and come up the other ; It hath a hundred and fifty staires , and seventy Windowes . The Dome is such as all Italy hath few the like , t is built of Pietra Teverina , and on the Front are most exact Ouerages of Marble . In or about Rome I know no place I mist , excepting Bagnaia on this side and Albano on the other ; the latter deserves seeing , if not for the Antiquity , yet for the good Wine ; one of the best sorts in Italy . However Florus saith Alba Latii Caput before Romulus had laid his Cities foundation : Besides the Tombes of Ascanius , and of the three Horatii yet stand there . There are many Ensignes of the Romans greatnesse , and places often cited amongst ancient Writers ; As Canna , Sulmo Ovids Towne , Brundusium , with many others towards Calabria , but few or none steere that course . Those that make the circuit in Italy , far il Gyro as they say goe to Venice by the way of Loreto . Between Rome and Loreto one passeth by divers Remnants of Antiquity , as first the ruines of Otricoli , then Narnia , which Martiall Describes thus . Narnia Sulphureo quam Gurgiti Candidus Amnis Circuit Ancipiti vix adeunda Jugo . Out of the Towne there are most huge arches of a Bridge standing over the River , made by Augustus out of the Sicambrian spoyles , the Reliquiae declare it to have been the worke of some flourishing Empire . 'T is of Marble , One Arch though not entire is two hundred foot broad , a hundred and fifty high , nor can I thinke Martiall spoke of any other Bridge in the precedent Epigram , which hee concludes thus . Sed jam parce mihi , nec abutere Narnia Quinto . Perpetuo liceat sic tibi Ponte frui . There comes an Aquiduct into the City fifteen miles in length , at the embushment are three faire Fountaines of Brasse . Beyond Spoleto runnes the River Clitumnus , the water whereof the old Poets feign'd , made the Oxen that dranke of it , white , as Virgill in his Georgicks Hinc albi Clitumne Greges & maxima Tauri , Victima saepe tuo persusi Flumine sacro . Romanos ad Templa Deûm duxere triumphos . Keeping on the Via Flaminia you come to Foligni , of old Forum Flaminii ; some step out of the way to Assisa famous for the birth of Saint Francis , institutor of the Capuchian Order : but the nearest is to goe to Recanati and so to Loreto . Great was Diana of the Ephesians , great is the Lady of Loreto . Loreto is of it selfe but a little Bourg or Village , yet by the noise it makes through Christendome , especially in the Catholike Regions , t is as much frequented as Saint Peters Chaire . Hee 's no zealous Romanist that hath not made one pilgrimage thither , or sent some Offering to the Virgin here ador'd . The Church is on an Eminence ; In the midst with great reverence is kept the Cottage or chamber ( as they tell ) where the Virgin Mary liv'd and conceiv'd her heavenly Offspring . The house is environd with a case of Marble most curiously workt , their Legend runnes that this lodging was brought out of Palestina by the Angels , and plac't here at the Adriatick shoare : Why not at Rome I wonder ? To confirme this story they shew the Window where the Angell enterd at the Salutation . Here is without dispute the greatest Treasurie in Christendome , and is daily increast by new Oblations from Catholike Princes . Which the Turks and other Pyrates well know , and would make incursions were the place as weake , as it is little . Though little it deserves a longer survey then my speed will admit . I passe now towards Ravenna , and first Ancona presents it selfe to my view . Ancona the greatest maritimate under his Holinesses Jurisdiction is mountainously scituated , yet before hath a most capacious and commodious Port ; ancient without any farther enquiry ; that arch-Triumphall erected by the Senate to Trajan is so firme and solid an Antiqual , as Rome her selfe can scarce shew the like , t is of Parian Marble , each stone of a prodigious bignesse , cimented with no Morter , but with Lead . In the Front these words are legible . Imp : Caesari . Divi . Nervae . F. Nervae Trajano . OptimO . Aug. Germanic . Daci . Co. Pont. Max. TR. Pot. XIX . Imp. IX . CosT . VI . P. P. Providentissimo Principi . Senatus P. Q R. Quod Accessum Italiae . Hoc etiàm addito , ex Pecunia sua Portum tutiorem . Navigantibus Reddiderit . On the right side . Plotinae . Aug. Conjugi Aug. On the left . Divae Marcianae Sorori Aug. Ancona gives the name to the Country Marca d' Ancona , anciently Ager Pisenus , all under the Pope , though the next Cities Senogallia and Fossombrone belong to the Dukedome of Vrbin . This Dukedome is at the present vacant , both the Pope and the Duke of Toscany lay claime thereto , t is thought there will be a publick Contest shortly . After Fossombrone you finde the River Metaurus and the Via Flaminia cut through a Rock . Vrbin is a City amongst the mountaines of very hard Accesse , Raphael d' Vrbino purchast it a great fame by his deserving Pensill , of which many excellent Pieces are here extant , one especially , his owne Picture drawne by his owne hand . The Pallace , the Bibliotheck , and Castello durante ten miles off may bee seen if you have leasu●e . Before the Place are the statues of the Dukes . Pesaro succeeds Vrbin a neat City in a plaine under the same Duke , the Princes Pallace and his other seats of Pleasance ( but above all Mille Fiore ) deserve any ones sight . The next City of Note is Ariminum , famous for Caesars ingression when he past the Rubicon of which take this . In the Piazza at Rimini , heretofore Forum Ariminense upon the stone whereon Caesar stood when he made a speech to his Souldiers . C. CAESAR Dict. Rubicone Superato Civili Bello Commilit . suos hic In Foro AR . Adlocut . 1555. per Cos. restit . At the East Gate comming from Pesaro , there 's an old decayed Arch of Marble built by Augustus where the Via Flaminia ended . Over the Marecchio is a bridge began by Augustus , and finished by Tyberius , as the title thereon intimates . Arimini stands , on the sea-side but the Port is very bad , the place is faire , grac't with the Pope Paulus Quintus his statue in Brasse . Betwixt Ariminum and Cesena neere to Cesena on the high way , upon a white Marble is yet visible the Decree of the Senate when Caesar past the Rubicon , and sayd — Eatur quo Deorum ostenta & inimicorum Iniquitas vocat , jacta sit Alea . The edict runs thus . Jussu mandatuve P. R. Cos Imp : Mili . Tyro . Commilito . Manipularive Cent. Turmaeve Legionariae Armat . Quisquis es hic sistito vexillum , Sinito , nec citra hunc Amnem Rubiconem , Signa , Arma , Ductum , Commeatum , exercitumve traducito . Si quis hujusce Jussionis ergo adversus jerit feceritve , Adjudicatus esto hostis P. R. ac si contra Patriam arma tulerit , sacrosque Penates e Penetralibus asp●rtaverit . Sanctio Plebesci Senatusve Consult : Vltra hos fines Arma proferre liceat nemini . This stone was restor'd Tem : Pauli Tertii . Upon one of the sides is writ ( as may be suppos'd by the Restorer ) Quae fluit Vnda brevis Gallorum terminus olim Ausoniaeque fuit ; Parvulus hic Rubicon . Advancing towards Ravenna you passe by Cervia , where before the Cathedrall an ancient Sepulcher , made like a Pyramid with two Infants ingrav'd thereon is to be noted : nearer Revenna is La Pignada that notable Forrest of Pines which furnisheth all Italy with that sort of fruit . Revenna a City very venerable for its Antiquity stands in a Plat very low , three miles from the Sea side ; It hath one great inconvenience , a scarcity of good water ; which Martiall knew when hee wrote this Epigramme Sit Cisterna mihi , quam Vinea malo Ravennae Cum possum multo vendere pluris Aquam . In the Porta Speciosa for the beauty of the Architecture cald Aurea this Title is to be read Ti Claudius . Drusi . F. Caesar . Aug. Germanicus . Pont. Max. TR. Pot. Cos. 2. Des. 3. Imp. P. P. dedit . At Ravenna t is worth the paines to step into the Church of Saint Apollinary built by Theodorick King of the Gothes . There are two rowes of most noble Columnes brought by the same King from Constantinople . Before the Church of Saint Vidal there are some old Idols of the Pagans , and in the Convent is the Sepulcher of Galla Placidia . Hard by are the Ruines of Theodoricks Pallace . In the Vessell of a Fountaine stands a Statue of Hercules Horarius the like not in Italy . The Dome of Ravenna is very sumptuous . The Tradition is that , Saint Apollinary praying God would shew some miraculous signe to whom hee would commit the Bishoprick of Ravenna , at a solemne Convention , the Spirit came downe in the likenesse of a Dove upon one ; the Window whereat the Dove enterd , they conserve with great Devotion . In Saint Francis his Convent , is buried the great Italian Poet Dante , with this Epitaph made by himselfe . Jura Monarchiae , superos Phlegetonta lacusque Lustrando cecini , volverunt fata quousque Sed quia Pars cessit melioribus Hospita castris . Actoremque suum petiit felicior astris . Hic claudor Danthes patriis exornis ab Oris Quem genuit parvi Florentia mater Amoris . These are the most considerable rarities at Ravenna . I will now make a speedy cut through those parts in Lombardy I left out . Neere to Padua is Arquato , where Petrarch liv'd and past to the other life , they shew his house . On a faire tombe is this his Epitaph . Frigida Francisci Lāpis hic teossa Petrarchae Suscipe Virgo Parens , animam sate Virgine parce Fessaque jam terris coeli requiescat in arce . These Cities in Lombardy , as Mantua , Modena , Parma , Turino , the Capitalls of foure Dukedomes are seldome visited by strangers ; and indeed the splendour those Princes live at drownes the rarities of the Cities , but I have been so superfluous in curiosities , that I feare Delight should turne too tedious thererefore in brief . Mantua stands in the midst of a Lake , which renders the place inaccessable . There are to come to the City two great Bridges , the one named San Georgio , the other Molini . Gradaro is a very faire Church , as likewise the Dome , where there 's two excellent Pieces of the Councells held at Mantuo . The Duke hath divers seats and Pallaces about the City . As the Fontana where in a hall there are rangd about wild Boares Heads , that Vincenzo Father of this present Duke Ferdinand killed with his owne hand . The Favorita and the Thea , and above all the Hall of Gyants , where by strange and unusuall art , how low soever one speaks , at the corners t is intelligibly to be heard , and those in the midst heare nothing . The Dukes Pallace is of a most vast extent , Virgils house is shew'd neere the City , no memoriall but his Statue — Man tua me genuit . In the rest of the Cities of Lombardy , there is little should draw a Traveller out of his way to bee seen , but the Courts of their Princes , till he comes to Turin the Duke of Savoys amongst the Alpes where he may shut this Booke . 1648. The End of the Appendix . Errata . PAge 24. line 11. for one Read owne . p. 42. l. 12. for è r. & . p. 44. l. 7. for distance . r. distant . p. 75. l. 5. for Antonius , r. 〈◊〉 p. 86. 4. for some r. same . p. 86. l. 4. for Printed r. painted . p. 11. 7 l. 8. o●it s . p. 206. l. 11. for Mar. r. Marmore . p. 206. l. 9. for Constitution r. Institution . Imprimatur . NATHANIEL BRENT . Junii 28. 1648. Notes, typically marginal, from the original text Notes for div A92196e-850 * Vesuuius † the Alpes Notes for div A92196e-1200 * A weak Broath of Hearbs * Good words . A Porter . Notes for div A92196e-3260 Monaco . Genua . Pisa . Ligorne . Florence . Sum Osiris Rex . Jupiter universo in terrarum orbe . Rome . * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 355. * Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 280. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 343 & 346. * Vid. Rom. Antic. p. 353. * Vid. Rom ▪ An. i● . pag. 1●9 . a Vid. Rom Antic. pag. 173. b Vid. Rom Antic. pag. 171. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 350. Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 442. * Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 45 * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 486. a Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 491. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 215 * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag 3. * Vid. Rom Antic. pag. 190. * Vid. Rom. Antic pag. 349. * Vid. Rom Mod pag. 6. * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag 10. * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 20. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 248. * Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 205. * Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 402. Vid. Rom. An●ic . pag. 69 * Vid. Rom. An●ic , pag. 309. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 168. * Vid. Rom. An●ic . pag. 86. & 88. a Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 326. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 202. a Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 207. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 225. a Act. 28. 30. b Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 428. c Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 165. * Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 239. * Vid. Rom Antic. pa. 228. Naples . Bolonia Ferrara . Venice . Padua . Vicenza . Verona . Brescia . Milan . Geneva . Notes for div A92196e-29340 Perugia . Loreto . Ravenna .