The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant. Lassels, Richard, 1603?-1668. 1670 Approx. 921 KB of XML-encoded text transcribed from 369 1-bit group-IV TIFF page images. Text Creation Partnership, Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) : 2007-10 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1). A49620 Wing L465 ESTC R2418 12040167 ocm 12040167 52976 This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. 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([44], 251; 447, [4] p.) [s.n.], and are to be sold in London, by John Starkey ..., Newly printed at Paris : 1670. Marginal notes. "A table of the names..." [i.e. index]: prelim. p. [7]-[9] and p. [2]-[4] at end. Part 1 has added t.p., engraved. Part 2 has special t.p. which reads: The voyage of Italy ... Opus posthumum: corrected and set forth by his old friend and fellow traveller S[imon] W[ilson]. Reproduction of original in Huntington Library. Created by converting TCP files to TEI P5 using tcp2tei.xsl, TEI @ Oxford. Re-processed by University of Nebraska-Lincoln and Northwestern, with changes to facilitate morpho-syntactic tagging. Gap elements of known extent have been transformed into placeholder characters or elements to simplify the filling in of gaps by user contributors. 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Copies of the texts have been issued variously as SGML (TCP schema; ASCII text with mnemonic sdata character entities); displayable XML (TCP schema; characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or text strings within braces); or lossless XML (TEI P5, characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or TEI g elements). Keying and markup guidelines are available at the Text Creation Partnership web site . eng Italy -- Description and travel. 2006-02 TCP Assigned for keying and markup 2006-08 SPi Global Keyed and coded from ProQuest page images 2006-09 Judith Siefring Sampled and proofread 2006-09 Judith Siefring Text and markup reviewed and edited 2007-02 pfs Batch review (QC) and XML conversion THE VOYAGE OF ITALY . PRINTED AT PARIS . Anno dn̄i . M.DC.LXX THE VOYAGE OF ITALY , OR A Compleat Journey through ITALY . In Two Parts . With the Characters of the People , and the Description of the Chief Towns , Churches , Monasteries , Tombs , Libraries , Pallaces , Villas , Gardens , Pictures , Statues , and Antiquities . AS Also of the Interest , Government , Riches , Force , &c. of all the Princes . With Instructions concerning Travel . By Richard Lassels , Gent. who Travelled through Italy Five times as Tutor to several of the English Nobility and Gentry . Never before Extant . Newly Printed at Paris , and are to be sold in London , by John Starkey at the Mitre in Fleet-street near Temple-Barr , 1670. TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE AND MOST TRVLY NOBLE LORD RICHARD LORD LVMLEY VICOVNT WATERFORD &c. MY LORD It were needlesse to tell you , by how many titles this little Orphan booke , claimes the honour of your Lord ps protection . First , by the law of nature , its parent dying in your seruice , you stand bound to bee a foster father to it ; againe it haueing been my fortune to contribute something to the bringing it forth to light , it hath a new relation to you vnder the title by which I haue long agoe consecrated all my endeauours to your seruice . But to passe by these two , there is yet a third reason , wherby it will appeare , not the effect of choise , but of necessity , that it should come forth vnder the fauour of your name : The wellgrounded experience which you haue gained in your trauells ; the exacte and iudicious account you are able to giue of the places you haue seen , which make a great part of the subiect of this booke ; the mature iudgment of the interests of states , and manners of people wherof it treats , which in you is not the after fruit of age ; the Gentile and courteous behauiour which you haue acquired , and which charmes all those who haue the honour to conuerse with you : These , I say , are vertues so peculier to your Person , and so conspicuous in the eyes of all the world , that the designe of this Booke being to forme the like in the rest of the Gentry of our Nation that pretend to trauell ; It would bee a wrong to the publike to let it appeare vnder the Patronage of any other then of him that is the Idea of an accomplisht and consūmate Traueller . And this , I doubt not , was the reason , why the Author haueing had the honour to haue been a Gouernour to so many of the flower of our Gentry , made choise of your Lordship to bequeath this worke vnto , by his last Will and Testament : And which imposeth vpon me a necessity , both in compliance to the memory of my worthy friend and fellow traueller , and to the duty I owe vnto your Lordship , by the honour I haue to succeed vnto him in his last engagement , to offer vp this his last worke to you , as an euerlasting monument of esteeme and gratitude , of him who while hee liued euer was , and of him who liueing euer is . MY LORD Your Lordships most humble & most obedient seruant S. Wilson . A TABLE OF THE NAMES OF THE CHIEF TOWNES contained in this first part . A. AIguebelle . 69 Aiguebellet Mt. 66 Aix . 42 Alexandria . 103 Apennins Mts. 154 Aquapendente . 241 Auignon . 38 B. S. Baume . 43 Beauuoysin . 66 Berlin . Mt. 58 Bologna . 141 Bolsena . 242 Briare . 32 Briga . 6● C. Caprarola . 247 Cassale . 103 Castelfranco . 141 Chambery . 67 Cenis . Mt. 70 Coire . 57 D ▪ Deuedra . 65 Domodoscela . 65 F. Florence . 155 Fontainbleau . 27 Fort-Vrban . 140 G. Geneua . 48 Genua . 82 I. S. Iohn Morian . 69 Isere . Riu. 68 L. Lake of Geneua 49 Lake of Bolsena . 243 Lakes of Wollinstade and Isee . 59 Lake Maior . 65 Lasneburg . 69 Lausanna . 50 Ligorne . 232 Lodi . 133 Lucca . 225 Lyons . 32 M. Marseiles . 42 Marguzzi . 65 Marignano . 133 S Maurice . 59 S. Maximin . 44 Milan . 112 Modena . 138 Monferat . 103 Montargis . 32 Montefiascone . 243 Monterosa . 249 Montmelian . 68 Murat . 52 N. Neuers . 32 Noualese . 71 Noui 10● P. Parma . 135 Pauia . 105 Piacenza . ●4 Piemont . 72 Pisa . 228 Pistoia . 225 Po. Riv. 72 Poggibonzi . 235 Pont S. Esprit . 38 Pougues . 32 R. Radicofino . 241 Regio . 238 Riuiera di Genua . 82 Roanne . 32 S. Sampion . M. 63 Sauona . 80. Sauoy . 76 Sesto . 66 Siena . 235 Sion 62 Soleur . 52 Splug . Mt. 58 Susa . 71 Swisserland . 51 T. Terrara . 32 Ticinum . 105 Tortona . 104 Tournon . 38 Turin . 72 V. Valance . 38 Valtaline . 57 Valetians . 59 Veij . 250 Vienne . 38 Viterbo . 246 Y. Yssonne . ●● . Z. Zuric . 54 A PREFACE TO THE READER , CONCERNING TRAVELLING . WHEN I first set pen to Paper to handle this subject , I had not the least thought of the presse ; nor of erecting my selfe into an Author . J onely discharged my memory hastily of some things which J had seen , in Italy ; and wrapt vp that vntimely Embrio in fiue sheets of paper , for the vse of a noble person , who set me that taske . Yet this Embrio likeing the person for whom it was conceiued , obliged me to lick it ouer and ouer againe , and bring it into better forme . Second thoughts , and succeding voyages into Italy , haue finished it at last ; and haue made it what it is ; A compleat Voyage , and an exact Itinerary through Italy . And here I thought to haue drawne bridle and rested , after so long a iourney ; when a learned friend hauing perused this my Description of Italy , desired much to see a Preface to it , of my fashion , and Cōcerning Traueling . I could refuse nothing to such a freind ; and haue done it here willingly , both for my owne , and my countryes sake . For my owne sake ; to preexcuse some things in my booke , which some perchance may dislike . For some , I feare , will quarrel with my English ; and justly , seeing three long voyages into Flanders , six into France , fiue into Italy , one into Germany , and Holland , haue made mee , liue half of my life time in forrain countryes , to the disturbance of my owne language . Yet if J bring not home fine language , J bring home fine things : and I haue seen great Ladyes , both in France , and England , buy finde things of chimney-sweepers , and Pedlars , that spoke but course Lombard language , and grosse Scotch . Others perchance will finde fault , that J write merrily sometimes : And why not ? Seeing I write to young men , and for them : and mirth is neuer so lawfull as in traueling , where it shortens long miles , and sweetens bad vsage ; that is , makes a bad dinnar go downe , and a bad horse go on . Others will say , that I fill my booke with too much Latin : But these must be minded , that I am writing of the Latin country ; and that I am caruing for Schollers , who can disgest solid bitts , hauing good stomacks . Others will say , J ieere now and then : And would any man haue me go through so many diuers countries , and prayse all I see ? Or in earnest , do not some things deserue to be ieered ? when things cannot be cured but by ieering , ieering , sayth Tertullian , is a duty : and I thinke the Cynick Philosophers struck as great a blow at vice , as the Stoicks . Others will say , I change stile often , and sometimes ru●n smoothly , sometimes joltingly : Tru●●raueled not allwayes vpon smooth ground , and paceing horses : Swisserlande and Sauoye , are much different , from Campania , and Lombardy ; and its one thing to describe a Pleasant garden , an other thing to describe a Venerable Cathedrall : and if in the one , and the other , we haue seueral lookes ; much more ought we to haue seueral words in describing them . Others will say , I affect a world of exotick words not yet naturalized in England : No , I affect them not ; I cannot auoyd them : For who can speak of Statues , but he must speak of Niches ? or of Churches , Wrought Tombes , or inlayd Tables ; but hee must speak of Coupolas ; of bassi rilieui ; and of pietre commesse ? If any man vnderstand them not , it s his fault , not mine . Others will say , I hunt too much after Ceremonies , and Church antiquityes . No , I onely meet them . And as a man cannot speak of Hercules , but he must speak of clubbs , of combats , of Labours , and victories : so I cannot speak of Rome the Christian , but I must speake of Relicks , Ceremonies , and Religion . Yet I beleeue , I giue my Reader a full drought to● of prophane antiquityes , Mascarades , Shews , dressings , and passetimes . Others in fine will say , that I do but a thing done allready ; seeing two others haue written of this subiect in English. Well ; if others haue written vpon this subiect , why may not I ? They did the best they could , I beleeue ; but they drew not vp the ladder after them . The one writes much of Italy , and says little : the other writes little and leaueth out much ; which I impute to the ones writing out of old Geographers , long after he had been there : and to the others short stay in Italy , when he was there . And if these ingenious gentlemen haue painted out Italy in busto onely , and profile ; why may not I paint her out at full face , and at her full length ? If they , like ancient Statuaryes , haue represented Italy vnto vs like a naked statue ; I haue set her out in all her best Attire , and Iewels . And thus much for my owne sake . For my countryes sake ; To read to my countrymen two profitable Lessons . The first , of the Profit of traueling . The second : of Traueling with profit . 1. For the first , to wit the Profit of Traueling , its certain , that if this world be a great booke , as S. Augustin calls it , none studdy this great Booke so much as the Traueler . They that neuer stirr from home , read onely one page of this booke ; and like the dull follow in Pliny , who could neuer learne to count further then fiue , they dwell allwayes vpon one lesson . They are like an acquaintance of mine , who had alwayes a booke indeed lyeing open upon a deske ; but it was obserued that it lay allwayes open at one and the same place , and by long custome , could lye open no where else . He then that will know much out of this great booke , the world , must read much in it : and as Vlysses is setforth by Homer as the wisest of all the Grecians , because he had traueled much , and had seen multorum hominum mores & Vrbes , the Cittyes and customes of many men : so his sonn Telemachus is held for a very shallow witted man : and Homer giues the reason , because his mother Penelope , instead of sending him abroad to see forrain countryes , had allwayes kept him at home , and so made him a meere Onocephalus , and a homeling Mammacuth . So true is the saying of Seneca , that Imperitum est animal homo , & sine magna experientia rerum , si circumscribatur Natalis soli sui fine . 2 Traueling preserues my yong nobleman from surfeiting of his parents , and weanes him from the dangerous fondness of his mother . It teacheth him wholesome hardship ; to lye in beds that are none of his acquaintance ; to speak to men he neuer saw before ; to trauel in the morning before day , and in the euening after day ; to endure any horse and weather , as well as any meat and drink . Whereas my country gentleman that neuer traueled , can scarce go to London without makeing his Will , at least without wetting his handkercher . And what generous mother will not say to her sonn with that ancient ? Malo tibi malè esse , quàm molliter : I had rather thou shouldst be sick , then soft . Indeed the coral-tree is neither hard , nor red , till taken out of the Sea , its natiue home . And I haue read that many of the old Romans put out their children to be nurced abroad by Lacedemonian nurces , till they were three yeares old ; then they put them to their Vncles , till seauen , or tenn ; then they sent them into Toscany to be instructed in Religion ; and at last into Greece to studdy Philosophy . 3. Traueling takes my yong nobleman four notches lower , in his self-conceit and pride . For wheras the country Lord that neuer saw any body but his Fathers tennants , and M. Parson , and neuer read any thing but Iohn Stow , and Speed ; thinks the Lands-end to be the Worlds-end ; and that all solid greatness , next vnto a great Pasty , consists in a great Fire , and a great estate . Wheras my traueling yong Lord , who hath seen so many greater men , and Estats then his owne , comes home farre more modest and ciuil to his inferiours , and farre lesse pufft vp with the empty conceit of his owne greatness . Indeed nothing cured Alcibiades his pride so much , as to see in a Map ( shewd him for the nonce by Socrates ) that his house and lands , of which he was so prowd , either appeared there not at all , or onely a little spot , or dab : and nemo in pusillo magnus . 4. Traueling takes off , in some sort , that aboriginal curse , which was layd vpon mankind euen allmost at the beginning of the world ; I meane , the confusion of tongues : which is such a curse indeed , that it makes men , who are of one kind , and made to be sociable , so strangely to fly one an other , that , as great S. Austin sayth , A man had rather be with his dog , then with a man whose language he vnderstands not . Nay , this diuersity of language , makes the wisest man passe for a foole in a strange country , and the best man , for an excommunicated person , whose conuersation all men auoyd . Now , traueling takes off this curse , and this moral excommunication , by making vs learne many languages , and conuerse freely with people of other countryes . 5. Traueling makes vs acquainted with a world of our kinred we neuer saw before . For seing we are all comne from one man at first , and consequently all akinn to one another ; it s but a reasonable thing , that a man should , once at least in his life time , make a journey into forrain countries , to see his Relations , and visit this kinred : haueing allwayes this saying of young Joseph in his mouth ; quaero fratres meos 6. Traueling enables a man much for his countryes seruice . It makes the merchant rich , by shewing him what abounds , & wantes , in other countryes ; that so he may know what to import , what to export . It makes the mechanick come loaden home with a world of experimental knowledge for the improueing of his trade . It makes the feild officer , a knowing Leader of an army , by teaching him where an army in forrain countryes , can march securely , passe riuers easily , incamp safely , auoid ambuscades and narrow passages discretly , and retreat orderly . It makes the Common soldier play the spy wel , by making him speak the ennemyes language perfectly , that so mingling with them , he may find their designes , and crosse their plottes . In fine , it makes a nobleman fitt for the noblest employment , that is , to bee Ambassador abroad for his king in forrain countryes , and carry about with him his kings person , which he represents , and his kings word , which he engageth . 7. Traueling brings a man a world of particular profits . It contents the minde with the rare discourses we heare from learned men , as the Queen of Saba was rauished at the wisdome of Salomon . It makes a wiseman much the wiser by making him see the good and the bad in others . Hence the wiseman sayth : Sapiens in terram alienigenarum gentium pertransiet : bona enim & mala in hominibus tentabit . It makes a man think himself at home euery where , and smile ●t vniust exile : It makes him wellcome home a gaine to his Neighbours , sought af●er by his betters , and listened vnto with admiration by his inferiours . It makes him sit still in his old age with satisfaction ; and trauel ouer the world againe in his chair and bed , by discourse and thoughts . In fine its an excellent Commentary vpon historyes ; and no man vnderstands Liuy and Caesar , Guicciardin and Monluc , like him , who hath made exactly ●he Grand Tour of France , and the Giro of Italy . 8. Trauelling makes my young Nobleman returne home againe to his country like a blessing Sunn , For as the Sunn , who hath been traueling about the world these fiue thousand and odd yeares , not onely enlightens those places whi●h hee visits ; but also enrich●th them with all sorts of fruits , and mettales : so the nobleman by long traueling , hauing enlightened his vnderstanding with fine notions , comes home like a glorious Sunn ; and doth not onely shine birght in the firmament of his country , the Parlament house ; but also blesseth his inferiours with the powerfull influences of his knowing spirit . 9. In fine , Examples ( the best Philosophy ) shew vs , that the greatest Princes Europe hath seen , these many years , to wit , Charles the V. and the King of Sueden , Gustauus Adolphus , where both of them great trauelers ; the first had been twice in England , as often in Africk , four times in France , six times is Spayne , seuen in Italy , and nine in Germany : The second had traueld incognito ( as M. Wats writes of him ) into Holland , France , Italy , and Germany in his youth : which made him say afterwards to the French Ambassador Mareshal Brezé , in a kind of threatening way , that he knew the way to Paris , as wel as to Stockholme . Adde to this , that the wisest and greatest among the ancien● Philosophers , Plato , Pythagoras Anaxagoras , Anacharsis , Apollonius , Architas , and Pi●tacus , ( which last left his supreame Command of Mytelen to trauel ) were all great trauelers ; and that S. Hierome ( who being no Bishop , and consequently not obliged to residence ) hauing traueled into France , Italy , Greece , and the Holy Land , purchased to himself such rare acquisitions of learning , by his trauels and languages , that among all the ancient Fathers and Doctors , The Church , in her Collect on his day , calls him onel● , Doctorem maximum , the greatest Doctor . And so much for the profit of Traueling . Now for as much as concernes the second Lesson , to wit , the Traueling with profit , diuers things are to be taken notice of ; some by the Parents of those that trauel ; others by those themselues that trauel : of all which I will speak breefly . As for the Parents , their greatest care ought to be of prouideing there children ( I speak to men of high condition ) a good Gouernour , to trauel with them , and haue a care of their Persons , and breeding : that is , play the part of the Archangel Raphaël to yong Tobie , and Lead them safe abroad , and bring them safe home : Ego sanum ducam & reducam filium tuum . Tob. 5. v. 20. And here I could ▪ wish indeed that Parents could be as happy in their choyce , and finde men Angels for Gouernours to their children , vpon condition they should requite them , as yong Tobie offered to requite the Archangel his Gouernour , whom he tooke to be a man. For the education of children is a thing of that high concerne to the Commonwealth , that in this , Parents should spair no coste whatsoeuer ; but rather imitate the old Lacedemonians , who tooke more care of their youth , then of any thing els in their Commonweath . In so much that when Antigonus a●d of them fifty yong youths for hostages , they answered him , that they had rather giue him twice as many made men . Seing then yong youths are the future hopes of families , and Commonwealths , their education ought not to be committed but to men of great parts and excellent breeding . For I haue allwayes thought , that a yong Noblemans train ought to be like his Clothes ; His Lacquais and footmen are like his Galoshes , which he leaues at the dores of those he visits : His Valets de Chambre , are like his night gowne , which he neuer vseth but in his chamber ; and leaues them there when he goes in visits : His gentlemen attendants , are like his seueral rich sutes , which he wears not all at once , but now one , now an other , and sometimes none at all of them : His groome is like his rideing cloake , and neuer appears neare him but vpon the road : But his Gouernour ▪ is like his shirt , which is allwayes next vnto his skinn and person ; and therefore as yong Noblemen are curious to haue their shirts of the finest linnen : so should they haue their Gouernours of the finest thread , and the best spunn men that can be found . Hence the ancients as they were carefull in honouring the memory of those that had binn Gouernours to great Heroes , as of Chyron , Gouernour of Hercules , Iason , Paris , Achilles , and other braue heroes ; Miscus Gouernour of Vlysses ; Eudorus of Patroclus ; Dares of Hector ; Epitides of Iulus , Connidas of Theseus ; all of them choyce men : So they were in chooseing the rarest men for that great employment , to be their childrens Gouernours ; that is in their language , Custodes & comites iuuentutis Principum & magnatum . For not euery honest and vertuous man ( as some Parents think ) is fit for this employment ▪ Those parts indeed would do well in a Stuard and a Soliciter ; but many things els , besides these , must concurre to make vp a good Gouernour . I would haue him then to be not onely a Vertuous man , but a Virtuoso too : not onely an honest man , but a man of honour too : not onely a gentleman borne , but a gentile man allso by breeding : a man not onely comely of person by nature ; but gracefull allso by art in his garbes and behauiour : a good scholler , but no meere scholler : a man that hath traueled much in forrain countryes ; but yet no fickleheaded man : a man of a stout spirit , but yet of a discreet tongue , and who knowes rather to waue quarrels prudently , then to maintain them stoutly : a man cheerfull in conuersation , yet fearfull to offend others : a man of that prudence , as to teach his pupil rather to be wise , then witty ; and of that example of life , that his deeds may make his pupil beleeue his words : in fine , I would haue him to be an Englishman , no stranger . I speak not this out of an enuy to strangers , but out of a loue to my owne countrymen . For J haue knowne diuers English gentlemen much wrongd abroad by their Gouernours that were Strangers . Some I haue knowne that led their pupils to Geneua , where they got some French language , but lost all their true English allegiance and respect to Monarchy ; others I haue knowne who , being marryed and haueing their setlements and interest lyeing at Saumur , kept yong gentlemen there all the time they were abroad ; and made their parents in England beleeue , that all good breeding was in that poore towne , where their wife 's were breeding children . Others I haue knowne who hauing their mistresses in the country , perswaded their yong pupils , men of great birth , that it was fine liuing in a country house , that is , fine carrying a gunn vpon their necks , and walking a foot . Others haue been obserued to sell their pupils to Masters of exercises , and to haue made them beleeue , that the worst Academyes were the best , because they were the best to the cunning Gouernour , who had tenn pound a man for euery one he could draw thither . Others I haue knowne who would haue marryed their pupils in France , without their Parents knowledge ; and haue sacrificed their great trust , to their sordid auarice . Others J haue knowne who haue locked their pupils in a chamber with a wanton woman , and taken the Key away with them . Nay , this I can say more , that of all those strangers that I haue knowne Gouernours to yong Nobleman of England ( and I haue knowne seuen or eight . ) I neuer Knew one of them to be a gentleman borne ; but for the most part , they were needy bold men , whose cheif parts were , their owne language and some Latin ; and whose cheif ayme was , to serue themselues , not their pupils . But to returne againe to our subject , the Parent hauing found out such a Gouernour for his sonn , as we haue described here aboue , he must resigne ouer vnto him his full Authority , and command his sonn to obey him : otherwise let the Gouernour be the wisest , and the most compleat man in the world , if his pupil do not obey him , and follow his counsel , all will go wrong . I haue seen great disorders befall for want of this . Hence I haue often thought of great Clemens Alexandrinus , who sayth wisely , that our Sauiour Christ is the onely true Pedagogue , or Gouernour , because he can not onely giue the best instructions to yong men , but also can giue them grace to execute those instructions : whereas other Gouernours ( Cassandra like ) telling their pupils many excellent truths , are not beleeued by them ; nor can they force their inclinations to execute them , except the Parents commands come in to their assistance : and it is but reasonable , that as Gouernours are the Seconds of Parents , in the breeding of their children , so Parents should second Gouernours too , in makeing their children obey them . And so much for the Parents care . For the son̄s care , it must bee this . First to take a view of England before he enter into forrain countryes . This will enure him to trauel , to see company , to obserue townes and rarityes , and sharpen his appetite for forrain curiosi●yes . I would wish him withall in traueling ouer England , to fall in , as often as he can , with the Iudges in their circuits , not onely to see how his country is gouerned in point of judicature , but allso to see the gentry of seueral countryes , who flock to great townes in the assise week . It would be allso profitable to him , to cast to be at all the cheif Horsraces , where he will easily see allso the gentry of the seuerall counties in a compendious view . Haueing thus seen his owne country in a summers space , and haueing got his Majesties licence to trauel beyond the seas ( in which Licence I could wish this clause were inserted , That all yong gentlemen should at their returne , present themselues to his Majesty , to giue him an account of their trauels and obseruations ) I would haue him depart England about the beginning of October . 2. At his going out of England , let him take his ayme right ; that is , let him ayme altogether at his profit , and not at his pleasures onely . J haue knowne many Englishmen who for want of right ayming , haue missed the white of breeding , whole heauens breadth . For some in traueling , ayme at nothing but to get loose , from their Parents , or schoolmasters , and to haue the fingering of a pretty allowance ; and these men when they come into France , care for seeing no court , but the Tenniscourt ; delight in seing no Balls but Tennisballs ; and forsake any company , to tosse whole dayes together with a tattered Marker in the Tripot . Others desire to go into Italy , onely because they heare there are fine Curtisanes in Venice ; and as the Queen of the Amazons , in Iustin , went thirteen dayes journey out of her country , onely to haue a nights lodgeing with Alexander the Great , so these men trauel a whole month together , to Venice , for a nights lodgeing with an impudent woman . And thus by a false ayming at breeding abroad , they returne with those diseases which hinder them from breeding at home . Others trauel abroad , as our ship-boyes do into the Indies : for whiles these boyes might bring home Iewels , Pearles , ad many other things of valew , they bring home nothing but firecanes , parots , and Monkies ; so our yong trauelers , whiles they might bring home many rich obseruations , for the gouerning themselues , and others , bring home nothing but Fire-canes , that is , a hotspur humor , that takes fire at euery word , and talkes of nothing but duels , seconds , and esclaireissements : or else parots , that is , come loaden home with rubans and feathers of all colours like parots , and with a few borowed compliments in their mouths , which make them talke like parots : or els Monkies , that is , some affected cringes , shrugs , and such like Apish behauiour . 3. At his embarking let him haue a special care not to carry Himself abroad with Himself in traueling . Many men , sayth Seneca , returne home no better then they went out , because they take themselues along with themselues in traueling : and as a man in a feauer , findes himself no better then he was , by changeing his bed ; because he carryes his feauour with him wheresoeuer he lyes : so many yong men returne home tyred , and dirted , but not better and wiser ; because they caryed abroad their bad customes and manners with them . I would then that my yong traueler should leaue behinde him all willfulness , and stubborness ; all tenderness , and seeking his ease too much ; all effeminatnesse and delicateness ; all boyish tricks with hands or mouth , and mocking of others ; all delighting in being the best man in the company ; all familiarity with seruants , and meane men ; all Tauernes , and intemperancy of eating and drinking ; hauing that saying of Seneca often in his mouth , and minde ; Major sum & ad majora natus , quàm vt mancipium sim corporis mei : I am too great a man , and borne to too great things , for to become the slaue of my body . In fine I would haue him imitate that yong gentleman of whom S. Ambrose speaks ; who returning home from forrain trauels , and meeting with his old mistresse , a wanton woman , seemed not to know her ; whereat she wondering , told him that ●he was such an one : it may be so , sayd he , but I am no more I. A rare Apothegme , which I would wish my yong Traueler to take for his motto , as well as this yong man for his exemple . 4. Being thus got out of England , it s a great question into what country he should first go , to make his aboad . The common course is , to go first into France , and then into Italy , and so home by Germany , Holand , and Flanders , as J did once : but my opinion is , that its better for a yong man to go first into Italy , and returning by Germany , Holland and Flanders , come into France , to giue himself there the last hand in breeding . And my reason is this ; For seing the intention of traueling , is to make a man a wise man , not a finical man , it s better to season his minde betimes with a stayd wise breeding , then to fill it vp to the brime at first , with a phantastical giddy breeding , which hauing once gotten possession of the minde , bolts the doore on the inside , locks out all staydness , and makes my yong man delight in nothing but vanity , clothes , danceing , liueryes , bals , and such meere outsides . I would therefore haue my yong noblemans Gouernour to carry him immediatly into Italy at fifteen or sixteen , and there season his minde with the grauity , and wise maximes of that Nation , which hath ciuilized the whole world , and taught Man Manhood . Hauing spent two , or three yeares in Italy in learning the language , viewing the seueral courts , studdying their maximes , imitating their gentile conuersation , and following the sweet exercises of musick , painting , architecture , and mathematicks , he will at his returne , know what true vse to make of France . And hauing spent three yeares more there , in learning to fence , dance , ride , vault , handle his pike , musket , coulors &c. The Map , history , and bookes of Policy ; he will be ready to come home at twenty , or one and twenty , a man most compleat both in body , and mind ; and fit to fill the place of his calling . 5. I say , make true vs of France : For I would not haue my yong traueler imitate all things he sees done in France , or other forrain countryes . I would haue him learne of the French a hansome confidence ; but not an ●mpudent boldness . He must learne of them to come into à Roome with a ●onne mine ; but not to rush into a mans chamber , as they do , without so much as knocking at the doore . He must learne of them to dance well , to get a good grace in walkeing , and saluting , as they do : but he must not dance as he walkes , as many of them do . He must learne of the French , to become any clothes well ; but he must not follow them in all their Phantastical and fanfaron clothings . He must learne to fence well , as they do ; but I would haue his sword stick faster in the scabbard then theirs do . In fine , I would haue him open , ayry , and gallant , as they are : but not affecting to be the Gallands of all Ladyes , as they do . So in Italy , J would haue him learne to make a fine house ; but J would not haue him learne of the Italians to keep a good house . He may learne of them to be sober , and wise : but I would not haue him learne of them be gealous and distrustfull . I would haue him learne of the Italians , to receiue those that visite him , with great ciuility and respect ; but I would not haue him stand vpon all their little formes and incommodious puntiglios . I would haue him to be free of his Hat , as they are : but I would haue the heart to go to the Hat , as well as the hand . Jn Germany I would haue him learne to offer a man a cup of wine at his comeing in ; but I would not haue him presse so much wine vpon him , as he shall not be able ●o go out againe , as they often do . I would haue him learne of them to go freely to warre for the defence of his country : but I would not haue him learne the custome of those vendible souls there , who carry their life 's to market , and serue any Prince for money . I like well their shakeing hands with you , when you first enter into their houses ; but I like not their quarreling with you for not pledgeing a health of a yard long , which would ruine yours . I like very much their singular modesty and chastity , which allowes not bastards to be freemen of the most ordinary trads : but I like not their endlesse drinking in feasts , which is able to make them freemen of all vices . In Holland allso I would haue him learne to keep his house and harth neat , but I would no● haue him adore his house , and stand in such awe of his harth , as not to dare to make a fire in it , as they do . I would haue him learne of them , a spare dyet ; but I would not haue him drink so much , as would keep him both in good dyet and clothes , as they do . I would haue him learne of them their great industry , and oeconomy : but not their rude exacting vpon Noblemen strangers in their Inns , for their Quality sake onely , as they do . I would haue him learne of them a singular loue to his country : but he must take heed of their clownish hatred of Nobility . Thus in all countryes I would haue my yong Traueler do , as men do at a great feast , where ther is no feare of staruing ; that is , not eate greedily of all that 's before him , but fall to the best meats , and leaue the worst for the waiters . 6. That he may follow the foresayd rule the better , and pick out of euery country what 's the best in it , let his Gouernour lead him betimes into the best company ; for there the best lessons are to be learned . Now by the word best , I do not meane the greatest men in birth , but in parts . For the world is not so happy , as that the greatest men are allwayes the best : but by the word best , I meane those that a●e the wisest , the best bred , the best principled , the best behaued , and the most cryed vp by ciuil persons : for of such men much is to be learned : Their life is a perpetual lecture ; their words so many oracles ; their discourses so many wise maxims : and though yong men be not able to bring their dish with them , and clubb wit equally with these men , yet it s a great matter to sit still in their company , and be a respectfull catechumen to them . For if it be true which Quintillian sayth of those that loue Cicero , Ciceronem amasse , profecisse est , it s allso most certain , that a man that loues good company , must be good himself in time . 7. And that he may be able to appeare in good company without blushing , his Gouernour must get him , as soone as he can , to speak the language of the place in hansome tearmes , and with a good accent . Next he must haue a care that he be well adjusted and set out in apparel . For if anciently Iewels were called the Vshers of Ladyes , because all doores flew open to them that presented themselues so richly adorned : so now a dayes good clothes may be called mens vshers , seeing they make way for them into all companyes . He must haue a care that he know his Congies perfectly , and haue a free garbe or carriage ; a Cauallier way of entering into a Roome ; a gratefull manegeing of his mouth and smiles ; a chyronomie , or decent acting with his handes , which may humour his words grauely and freely , yet not affectedly or mimically : in fine , a liberty or freedome in all his actions , which The French call liberté du corps ; and it must appeare to be à la negligence , and yet must be perfectly studdyed a fore hand . And though these things be but the Elements and Alphabet of breeding , yet without them he can neuer spel gentleman rightly , though his inside be neuer so good . Indeed its long ago , that great men dwell no more in thatched houses . 8. But it is not enough to get him into Language and Garbes , if he get him not into Coach and Liueryes , without which he can neuer appeare at Court , or in good company , especially in Rome and Paris ; the two cheif townes of long abode abroad . For let a man be of a Race as ancient as the Autocthenes of Athens , who sayd they were as ancient as the Earth ; and let him quarter his coat of Armes with the three Lyons of England , and the three Flower de-lys of France , as I know a gentleman of little Britany doth , ( by the grant anciently of both those kings ) yet I dare boldly say this , that in Paris no colours blazon a mans nobility behind his coache so much , as three Lacquais and a Page , in a hansome Liuery . In other townes of France , where yong gentlemen vse to liue at first , till they get the language , a couple of sadle horses would be very vsefull , both to take the ayre on , as allso to visit the gentry in the country at their summer houses , where a Man will fine great ciuilityes , and diuertisments . Besides rideing out so in the fresh euenings of summer , will not onely weane my yong gentleman from little company , and the crowd of his countrymen who will be then pressing vpon him ; but will allso afford his Gouernour many fine solitary occasions of plying him alone with good counsels and instructions . 9. And seing J haue touched something aboue of his seruants , and Lacquais , I will adde this , that seing it is none of the least blessings of a yong gentleman to haue good seruants about him , it belongs to his Gouernour , not onely to choose him good ones , but allso to haue power to turne away bad ones . Many men carry ouer with them English seruants , because they were their schoolfellowes , or their tennants sonns : and these are little vsefull for a long time , and euen then when a man hath most need of seruants . Besides , they are often too familiar with their masters , their old play-fellowes ; and as often troublesome to their Gouernours , by takeing their yong masters part against them ; and by raueling out at night , as they get their masters to bed , all that the prudent Gouernour hath been working in the day time . Others carry ouer Frenchmen with them ; but these often , by reason of their prerogatiue of language , which their masters want at first , get such an ascendent ouer them , that they come oftentimes to be too bold , and sawcy with them . For my part , I would haue his Gouernour , to take him new seruants in euery place he comes to stay ; and those sightly , rather then too sprightly youths : Dull people are made to tugg at the oare of obedience , sayth Aristotle , w●iles witty people are fitter to sit at the helme of command . 10. But I am to blame to giue aduice to Gouernours whom I suppose to be wiser men then my selfe ; and therefore will end here , by wishing them a good journey , and safe returne : To the effecting of both which , I found no better secret , them that in my last journey , which was to be mounted vpon our owne horses , ( fiue of vs together ) and to spare for no cost : for by this means , we went at our owne rates , and eat to our owne mindes : so true is the Italian Prouerbe ; Picole giornate , egrandi spese , ti conducono sano al tuo paese . In fine , I would haue my yong traueler make the same prayer of God , as Apollonius Thyanaeus made to the Sunn , at his going out to trauell , that is , that hee would bee so fauourable to him as to shew him all the Brauest and Best men in the world . THE VOYAGE OF ITALY . BEFORE I come to a particular description of Italy , as I found it in my Fiue seueral voyages through it , I think it not amisse to speak something in General , of the Country it self , its Inhabitants , their Humours , Manners , Customes , Riches , and Religion . For the Country it self , it seemed to me to be Natures Darling , and the Eldest Sister of all other countryes ; carrying away from them , all the greatest blessings and fauours ; and receiuing such gracious lookes from the Sun and Heauen , that if there be any fault in Italy , it is that her Mother Nature hath cockered her too much , euen to make her become Wanton . Witnesse luxuriant Lombardy , and Campania antonomastically Foelix , which Florus , Trogus , and Liuy think to be the best parts of the world , where Ceres and Bacchus are at a perpetual strife , whether of them shall court man the most , she by filling his barnes with corne ; he by making his cellars swimme with wine : Whiles the other parts of Italy are sweating out whole Forests of Oliue-trees , whole woods of Lemmons , and Oranges , whole fields of Rice , Turky wheat , and Muskmillions ; and where those Bare Hills , which seem to be shauen by the Sun , and cursed by Nature for their barren̄es , are oftentimes great with child of pretious Marbles , the ornaments of Churches and Palaces , and the Reuenews of Princes : witnesse the Prince of Massa : whose best Reuenues are his Marble Quarries : Nature here thinking it a farre more noble thing to feed Princes , Then to feed sheep . It abounds allso in silks and silkwormes ; out of which they draw a notable profit ; and for the feeding of them they keep a world of Mulberry trees whose leaues are the food of those little wormes , whose excrement is our pride ; thus , Adam like , we are clade in leaues againe , but leaues once remoued . It s rich allso in pasturage and cattle , especially in Lombardy , where I haue seen cheeses of an excessiue greatnesse , and of a Parmesan goodnesse . The surface allso of the earth is couered with many curious simples , ād wholesome hearbs : Hense so many rare essences , cordials , parfumes , sweet waters , and other odoriferous distillations so common here , that ordinary Barbers , and Landresses will spinkle them in your face and parfume your linnen with them , ouer and aboue your bargain . Hence none of the meanest things to be seen in Italy , are the fondaries or stilling houses of the Great Duke of Florence , the speciarie or Apothecaries ●hops , of the Dominicans of S. Marco , and of the Augustins of S. Spirito in Florence ; of the Roman Colledge , and of the Minimes of Trinita di Monte in Rome : where euen death it felf would find a cure in nature , if it were not a curse from the author of nature . In fine , it excells in all kind of prouisions , either for dyet , or sport ; and I haue seen in Rome whole cartloads of wild boares , and Venison , brought in at once to be sold in the market ; and aboue threescore Hares in Florence brought in , in one day by the two companyes of Hunters , the Piaceuoli and Piatelli , on a general hunting day . Yet after all this , some cryout against Italy , for being too hot ; and paint vs out its ayre as an vnwholesome pestilential ayre ; its sun , as an angry Comet , whose beames are all pointed with plagues and feauers ; and the country it self , as a place , where staruing is the onely way to liue in health ; where men eat by method and art ; where you must carry your body steddily , or els spill your life ; and where there are so many prouincial sicknesses and diseases ; as the catarres of Genua , the Goute of Milan , the Hemorrhoids of Venice , the falling sicknesse of Florence , the Feauers of Rome , and the Goistre of Piedmont . For my part , when I am told that there were in Plynies time , fourteen millions of men in Italy : when I read , that there are now aboue three thousand Cittyes in Italy , and most of them Cittyes of Garbo : when I meet with national diseases in euery other country , as the Kingseuil in Spayne , the Poxe in France , the consumption in Portugal , the cholick in England , the dessentery in Gascony , the headacke in Tolouse &c. when I reflect , how this Sun hath blessed Lombardy , and made Campania Happy : when I call to mind , that it hath filled the Cellars of Italy with aboue Thirty seueral forts of wines : when I remember , what health it hath powred into seueral hearbs here , what admirable fruits it furnisheth the markets with all , what ornaments it affords to Gods houses , ouercrustting allmost all the cheif Churches of Italy , with exquisit marbles ; when I consider in fine , how this Sun hath helpt to make so many braue Soldiers , and Schollers , I dare not speak ill of the Sun , or ayre of Italy , least Balzac check mee , as Gracchus did him who spoke ill of his mother , with a Tu Matri meae maledicis , quae Tiberium Gracchum genuit ? Darest thou speak ill of that Sun which helpt to make Caesar ? Yes , yes , it s this great blessing of God , warme Sun , which hath so throughly baked the Italian wits , that while ( according to the obseruation of Charles the V ) the French appeare not wise , but are wise : the spaniards appeare wise , but are not wise : the Dutch neither appeare wise , nor are wise ; The Italians onely both appeare wise , and are wise . Hence the Italians anciently afforded vs those prodigies of wit and learning , and set vs those fair coppies in liberal arts and sciences , which all men follow , but none attain vnto so much , as those that write the Italian hand ; that is , the moderne Italians themselues . For if the Italians anciently had their Virgil , their Ouid , their Horace , their Persius , and Propertius in Poëtry ; the moderne Italians spurr close vp to them , and haue their Taso , their Petrarck , their Sannazarius , their Marino , and Guarini . If the old Italians had their Salust , Liuy , Tacitus , and Valerius Maximus in history ; the moderne Jtalians haue their Guicciardin , Bentiu●glio , Dauila , Strada , and Baptista Fregosus , surnamed the second Valerius Maximus . If the ancient Italians had their pompous Orators , their Cicero , Hortensius , Porcius Latro , Iunius Gallio , Aulius Fuscus &c. The moderne Italians haue their Panigarola , Manzini , Varchi , and Loredano . If the ancient Italians had their Vast knowing Varro ; the moderne Italians haue their omniscious Baronius , who red allmost all that other men had written , and wrot more allmost , then other men can read . If the ancient Italians had their Diuines , writing of the Number and Nature of their Gods , to wit , Varro and Tully ; the moderne Italians haue their Diuines too , their inimitable S. Thomas of Aquin , and his learned second Cardinal Caïetan . If the ancient Italians had their Philosophers , their Pliny , their Cato , their Seneca &c. the moderne Jtalians haue their Ficinus , their Cardan , and their Picus Mirandula . If the ancient Italians had their rare Architects , Statuaries , Painters ; the moderne Jtalians haue their Brunelleschi , Palladio , Fontana , and Cronaco , in Architecture ; their Bandinelli , Donatello , Oli●●ri● , and Bernini in Sculpture ; their Raphael , Michel Angelo , Titian , and Sarto , in painting . If in fine , the ancient Italians had their braue Captains , their Scipio , Duilius , Marius , and Cesar , the moderne Italians haue their Scipio too , towit , their Alexander Farnese , whose true actions make Romances blush , hauing done that really , which Fables can scarce faigne in galantry : Their Duilius too , towit , their Andrea Doria , the Neptune of the Ligurian Seas , who alone taught his country not to serue : Their Marius also , towit , their braue Castruccio , who from a Comman soldier mounted vp by deserts to the highest military commands in the Emperors army ; and so stitched his fortune as he went along to honours , that it neuer raueled out againe , or failed him : In fine , their Caesar too , towit , the Marquis Spinola , or rather , the Achilles of Jtaly , who tooke that Troy , of Ostende , after three years Seige . This Seige was farre more famous then that of Troy , because farre truer . For in the Seige of Troy , it was Poëtry onely that made the warre , that framed and filled the woodden horse with worthyes ; that draged Hector round about the walls . It was pen and inck that killed so many men somno vin●que sepultos ; and Troy was easily burnt , because it was built of Poëts Paper . But at Osten all was reall , and all Europe allmost , who had their forces , or eyes there , were witnesses of it ; and all this done by Spinola an Jtalian . As for the Jtalian humour , it is a midling humour , between too much grauity of the spaniard , and too great leuity of the French. Their grauity is notwithout some fire , nor their leuity without some fleame . They are apish enough in Carneual time , and vpon their stages , as long as the visard is on ; but that once off , they are too wise to play the fooles in their owne names , and owne it with their owne faces . They haue strong fancies , and yet solid iudgements ; A happy temper , which makes them great Preachers , Politicians , and Ingeniers ; but withall they are a little too melancholy and gealous ; They are great louers of their brethren and neare kinred , as the first freinds they are acquinted withall by nature ; and if any of them lye in passe and fair for aduancement , all the rest of his relations will lend him their purses , as well as their shoulders , to help him vp , though he be but their younger brother . They are sparing in dyet , both for to liue in health , and to liue hansomly : making their bellyes contribute to the maintenance of their backs , and their kitchen help to the keeping of their stable . They are ambitious still of honours , remembering they are the successors of the masters of the world , the old Romans ; and to put the world still in mind of it , they take to themselues the glorious names of Camillo , Scipione , Julio , Mario , Pompeo &c. They are as sensible allso of their honour , as desirous of honours ; and this makes them strickt to their wife 's euen to gelousy , knowing that for one Cornelius Tacitus , there haue been ten Publij Cornelij ; and that Lucius Cornificius is the most affronting man. They are hard to be pleased , when thy haue been once read hoat with offence ; but they will not meet reuenge in the face , and feild ; and they will rather hire it , then take it . In fine they affect very much compounded names , as Pi●colomini , Capilupo , Bentiuoglio , Malespina , Boncompagno , Maluezzi , Riccobono , Malatesta , Homodei , and such like marryed Names . As for their Manners , they are most commendable . They haue taught them in their bookes , they practise them in their actions , and they haue spred them abroad ouer all Europe , which owes its Ciuility vnto the Jtalians , as well as its Religion . They neuer affront strangers in what habit soeuer they appeare ; and if the strangenesse of the habit draw the Jtalians , eye to it , yet he will neuer draw in his mouth to laugh at it . As for their apparel , or dresse , it s commonly black , and modest . They value no brauery but that of Coache and horses and Staffiers ; and they sacrifize a world of little satisfactions to that main one of being able to keep a Coache . Their Points de Venice , ribans and goldlace , are all turned into horses and liueries ; and that money which we spend in treats and Tauernes , they spend in coache and furniture . They neuer whisper priuately with one another in company , not speak to one another alowd in an vnknowne tongue when thy are in conuersation with others , thinking this to be no other then a lowd whispering . They are precise in point of Ceremony and reception ; and are not puzzeled at all , when they heare a great man is comeing to visit them . There 's not a man of them , but he knowes how to entertain men of all conditions ; that is , how farre to meet , how to place them , how to stile and treat them , how to reconduct them , and how farr . They are good for Nunciatures , Embassies , and State employments , being men of good behauiour , lookes , temper , and discretion , and neuer outrunning their businesse . They are great louers of Musick , Meddales , Statues , and Pictures , as things which either diuert their melancholy , or humor it : and I haue read of one Jacomo Raynero a shoomaker of Bolognia , who gathered together so many curious Meddals of Gold , siluer , and brasse , as would haue becomne the Cabinet of any Prince . In fine , they are extreamely ciuil to one another , not onely out of an awe they stand in one towards another , not knowing whose turne it may be next , to come to the highest honours ; but allso out of a natural grauity , and ciuil education , which makes euen schoolboyes ( an insolent Nation any where else ) most respectfull to one another in words and deeds ; treating one another with Vostra Signoria , and abstaining from all gioco di mano . Nay masters themselues here , neuer beat their seruant , but remitt them to justice , if the fault require it , and I cannot remember to haue heard in Rome , two women scold publickly , or man and wife quarrel in words , except once ; and then they did it so priuatly and secretly , and scolded in such a low tone , that I perceiued the Italians had reason about them euen in the middst of their choler . As for their particular customes , they are many . They marry by their eares , oftener then by their eyes ; and scarce speake with one another , till they meete before the Parish Priest , to speake the indissoluable words of wedlock . They make children go barehead till they be four or fiue years old , hardening them thus against rhumes and catarres when they shall be old . Hence few people in Italy go so warme on their heads , as they do in France ; men in their houses wearing nothing vpon their heads but a little calotte ; and women for the most part , going all barehead in the midst of winter it self . Women here also wash their heads weekly in a wash made for the nonce , and dry them againe in the Sun , to make their hair yellow , a colour much in vogue here among Ladyes . The men throw of their hats , cuffs , and bandes , as well as their cloaks , at their returne home from visits , or businesse , and put on a gray coate , without which they cannot dine , or supp ; and I haue been inuited to dinner by an Italian , who before dinner , made his men take of our hats and cloaks , and present euery one of vs ( and we were fiue in all ) with a coloured coate , and a little cap to dine in . At dinner they serue in the best meats first , and eat backwards ▪ that is , they beginn with the second course , and end with boyld meat and pottage . They neuer present you with salt , or braines of any fowle , least they may seeme to reproach vnto you want of wit. They bring you drink vpon a Sottocoppa of syluer , with three or four glasses vpon it ; Two or three of which are strait neckt glasses ( called there caraffas ) full of seueral sorts of wines or water , and one empty drinking glasse , into which you may powre what quantity of wine and water you please to drink , and not stand to the discretion of the waiters , as they do in other countrys . At great feasts , no man cuts for himself , but seueral caruers cut-vp all the meat at a side table , and giue it to the waiters to be carryed to the ghests ; and euery one hath the very same part of meat carryed vnto him , to wit , a wing and a legg of wild fowle &c. least any one take exceptions that others were better vsed then hee . The Caruers neuer touch the meat with their hands , but onely with their knife and forke , and great Syluer spoone for the sauce . Euery man here eats with his forke and knife , and neuer toucheth any thing with his fingers , but his bread : This keeps the linnen neat , and the fingers sweet . If you drink to an Italian , he thanks you , with bending , when you salute him , and lets you drink quietly , without watching ( as we do in England ) to thank you againe when you haue drunk : and the first time he drinks after that , will be to you , in requitall of your former courtesy . They count not the houres of the day as we do , from twelue to twelue ; but they beginn their count from sunset , and the first houre after sunset , is one a clock ; and so they count on till four and Twenty , that is , till the next sunset againe . I haue often dined at sixteen a clock , and gone abroad in the euening , to take the ayre , at two and twenty . They call men much by their Christen names , Signor Pietro , Signor Francesco , Signor Jacomo &c. and you may liue whole years with an Italian , and be very well acquinted with him without knowing him , that is , without knowing his distintiue surname . People of quality neuer visit one another , but they send first , to know when they may do it without troubleing him they intend to visit : by this meanes they neuer rush into one anothers chambers without knocking , as they do in France ; nor crosse the designes , or business of him they visit , as they do in England with tedious dry visits ; nor find one another either vndressed in clothes , vnprouided in compliments and discourse , or without their attendants , and traine about them . In the streets men and women of condition seldome or neuer go together in the same coache , except they be strangers , that is , of an other towne , or country : nay husbands and wifes are Seldome seen together in the same coache , because all men do not know them to be so . In the streets , when two persons of great quality meet , as two Embassadors , or two Cardinales , they both stop their coaches , and compliment one another ciuily , and then retire ; but still he that is inferiour must let the others coache moue first . If any man being a foot in the street , meet a great man , either in coache , or a foot , he must not salute him in going on his way , as we do in England and France , without stopping ; but he must stand still whiles the other passeth , and bend respectfully to him as he goes by , and then continue his march . In fine , of all the Nations I haue seen , I know none that liues , clothes , eats , drinks , and speaks so much with reason , as the Italians do . As for their Riches , they must needs be great . That which is visible in their magnificent Pallaces , Churches , Monasteries , Gardens , Fountains , and rich furnished Roomes , speaks that to be great which is in their coffers : and that which the King of spayne drawes visibly from Naples euery yeare , shews what the other parts of Italy could do for a need , if they were put to it by necessity . Nay , I am of opinion , that the very Sacristy of Loreto , the Gallery of the Duke of Florence , and the Treasory of Venice , would vpon an emergent occasion of a Gothick , or Turkish inuasion , be able to maintain an army for fiue yeares space ; and the Plate in Churches and Monasteryes , would be able to do as much more , if the owners of it were soundly frighted with a new Gothick irruption . As for the Riches of particular Princes in Italy , I will speak of them , as I view their Stats here below . In fine , as for their Religion , it s purely that which other countrys call by its true name , Catholick ; and which in England they commonly call , the Religion of the Papists . And though there they think to nickname the Catholick by calling him Papist , yet the well instructed Catholick knowing that the name of Papist , comes not from any Sectmaster , as Caluinist , Lutheran , Socinian , and Brownist doe ; nor from any Sectary meeting place , as Hugonots from the Gate of Hugo in Towers in France , neare vnto which they mett priuately at first to teach and dogmatise : nor from any publick sectary action , as Anabaptists , Dippers , Quakers &c. do : but from the word Papa , which signifies Father , and is not the name of any one man , or Pope , but onely signifies his Fatherly office of Pastor ; tho Catholick I say , is no more troubled at this name of Papist , then he was when hee was called in the late troubles , Royallist ( for adhearing to the king , which is not the name of any of our kings , but his office onely ) and not Cromwellist , which was the name of one adhearing to a particular man called Cromwell , and an vnlawfull vsurper of Power . As for the true name indeed , which is Catholick , it is so knowne to belong to those of the Roman Church , that besides that all those of that Church haue euer called themselues by no other name then this of Catholick , the wisest of Protestants also acknowledge it publikely to be their distinctiue name : witnesse that solemne meeting at Munster , some yeares ago , about the General Peace of Christendome , where the Publick Jnstrument of that Peace sheweth plainly how that the Protestant Plenipotentiaries ( the wisest men of that Religion ) treated with the Papists , as some call them , vnder the name of Catholicks : and though in many other titles and denominations , they were very wary and scrupulous , euen to the long suspension of the Peace , yet they willingly concluded , subscribed , and signed that Peace made with them , vnder the name of Catholicks . I say this onely , for to make men vnderstand , what the true name of the Religion practised ouer all Jtaly is , to-wit , Catholick . Haueing sayd thus much of Italy in Generall , I will now come to a particular Description of it , according to the ocular obseruations I made of it in fiue seueral Voyages through it . In which Description if I be a little prolixe , it is because I rid not Poste through Italy , when I saw it ; nor will I write poste through it in describing it ; being assured , that Epitomees in Geography are as dissatisfactory , as Laconick Letters would be in state Relations ; and that the great Atlas , in nine great volumes in folio , is not onely Atlas Maior , but also Atlas Melior . The seueral wayes by which a man may go into Italy . THE ordinary wayes which an Englishman may take in going into Italy , are fiue : to wit , either through Flanders and Germany ; and so to fall in at Trent , or Treuiso , and so to Venice . Or els by France , and so to Marseilles , and thence to Genua by Sea. Or els by land from Lyons through Swisserland , the Gris●ns country , and the Valteline , and so pop vp at Brescia . Or els from Lyons againe through the Valesians country , ouer Mount Sampion , the Lake Maior , and so to Milan . Or els in fine , from Lyons still , ouer Mount Cenis , and so to Turin , the nearest Posteway . I haue gone , or come , all these wayes in my fiue voyages into Italy , and though I preferre the last for speed and conueniency ; yet I will describe the others too , that my yong Traueler may know how to streere his course , either in time of plague or warre . My first Voyage into Italy . MY first voyage was through Flanders and Germany , and so to Trent . The way is , from England , to Dunkerque ; from thence to Furne , Newport , Ostend , Bruges , Gant , Brussels , Louain , Liege , Colen , Mayence , Francfort , and so crossing to Munichen , the Court of the Duke of Bauaria , and from thence to Ausburg , and Inspruck , you come soone to Trent , which stands vpon the confines of Germany , and lets you into Italy , by Treuiso belonging to the Venetians . To describe all these foresayd places would take me too much time from my designe of describing Italy , and therefore I content my self onely to haue named them . My second Voyage . MY second Voyage was by the way of France , where I started from Paris , and made towards Lyons ; in the way I tooke notice of these places . Yssone a neat house belonging then to Monsieur Essolin . The house is so pritty , that I think it worth the trauelers seeing , and my describing . It stands in the shade of a thick groue of trees , and is wholly built and furnished al' Italiana . Vnder the side of the house runns a little brooke , which being receiued into a Basin of freestone , iust as long as the house , and made like a ship , ( that is , sharp at both ends and wide in the middle ) it is clouen , and diuided in two , by the sharp end of this ship , and conueighed in close channels of freestone , on both sides of the ship or basin , into which it emptyes it self by seueral tunnels , or pipes : so that all this water spouting into the open ship on both sides , by four and twenty tunnels , makes vnder the windowes of the house such a perpetual purleing of water , ( like many fountains ) that the gentle noise is able to make the most iealous man sleep profundly . At the other end of the house this water yssueth out of the other end of the sayd ship , and is courteously intreated by seueral hidden pipes of lead , to walke into the house , instead of running by so fast : Which it doth , and is presently led into the Cellars , and Buttery ; and not onely into these , but also into the kitchen , stables , chambers , and bathing roome , all which it furnisheth with water either for necessity , or pleasure . Then being led into the curiours garden , it s mett there by a world of little open channels of freestone built like knots of flowers ; all which it fills brimfull , and makes euen Flowers of water . Then running vp and downe here and there among the fragrant delights of this garden , as if it had forgotten its errand to the Sea , it seems to be so taken with those sweet beds of flowers , and so desirous of resting vpon them , after so many miles runing , that i● offers to turne it self into any posture , rather then be turned out of this sweet place . From Yssonne I came to Fontainbelleau , where I saw that Kingly house , the Nonesuch of France . It stands in the midst of a great Forrest full of Royal game , and was the place of delight of Henry the Fourth . The house is capable of lodgeing four kings with their seueral Courts . The Court of the Cheual blanc is a noble squaire of building ; but the lowness of the buildings and lodgeings shews , they are for the lower Sort of people , and the seruant-lodgings to the Royal appartiments . The Oual Court is a good old building . The Kings and Queens lodgings with their Cabinets groane vnder their rich guilt roofes . The Gallery of staggs heads is a stately roome , then which nothing can be more Caualierly furnished ; except such an other gallery hung with Turkish standards wonne in warre . The other long Galleries of Romances and Fables , painted by Simon Voyët and other , are much esteemed : the onely pitty is , that such true painting should not haue been employed vpon true histories . The Salle of the Conference , is a stately Roome , where the Bishop of Eureux ( afterwards called the Cardinal du Perron ) in presence of king Henry the Fourth , the Chanceler , fiue Iudges of both Religions , and the whole Roome full of learned men , so confuted Monsieur Plessis Mornay , the Achilles of those of Charenton , that after the first dayes Conference , he durst neuer enter the list againe , as he promised ; but dyed soone after fuller of shame , then yeares . The Hall for maskes , and the Lodgings of Madame Gabrielle with her picture ouer the Chimney like a Diana hunting , are fine Roomes : yet the fair picture cannot hinder men from blameing her foule life ; nor from censureing that solaecisme of the painter , who made chaste Diana looke like Madame Gabrielle . There are also here two Chappels , the old , and the new . The old one is a poore thing ; and seems to haue been built for hunters : but the new one is both neat and stately , and built vpon this occasion , as a Bishop in France told me . A spanish Embassador resideing in Paris in Henry the IV. his time , went one day from Paris to Fontainbleau , to see this French Escurial . Arriueing , he lighted after his countryes fashion , at the Chappel doore ( the old Chappel ) and entring in , to thank God for his saif arriual , he wondered to see so poore and dark a chappel , and asking with indignation whether this were the Casa di Dios ? The house of God ? he turned presently a way with scorne , Saying , No quiero Veer mas ; I care for seeing no more : not staying to see that place , where the king had so a fine a house , and God so poore a Chappel . This being told the last king Lewis the XIII . he commanded forth with the new Chappel to be built in that sumptuous posture we now see it . Going out of the house , you finde a hansome Mail , and Rare Ponds of water , which euen baptize this place with the name of Fontainbelleau . In these Ponds , as also in the moat about the house , are conserued excellent Carps ; some whereof were sayd to be a hundred years old : which though we were not bound to beleeue ; yet their very white scales , and dull moueing vp and downe , might make men beleeue that there are gray scales , as well as gray haires ; and decayed fishes , as well as decrepit men : especially when Columella speaks of a fish of his acquaintance , in Caesars fish ponds neare Pausilipus , which had liued threescore years ; and Gesnerus relates , that in a fishpond neare Haylprum in Suabe , a fish was catched anno 1497 , with a brasse ring at his gills , in which were engrauen these words : I am the first fish which Federic the second , Gouernour of the world put into this Pond the 5 of October 1203. By which it appears , that this fish had liued two hundred and sixty odd yeares . But to returne againe to our Carps of Fontainbelleau , it s an ordinary diuertissement here to throw a halfpenny loaf into the moat among the Carps , and to see how they will mumble and iumble it to and fro ; how others will puff and snuff and take it ill , not to haue part of it ; and how in fine , they will plainly fall to blowes , and fight for it . You would wonder , how such hoat passions should be found in cold water : but euery thing that liues , will fight for that which makes it liue , its Vittails . Hauing seen Fontainbelleau , I saw on extraordinary thing in the rest of the way to Lyons , but an old Inscription in letters of gold , vpon a woodden Fabrick , a mile before I came to Montargis , importing , that the English being encamped here , had been forced to rayse their Seige before Montargis , by reason of great raynes and suddain inundations . Some of the French historians will haue it , that it was the Count de Dunois , that forced the English to rayse the Seige here : but I had rather beleeue publick inscriptions , then priuate flattery : and it was more honourable for the English to be ouercome by God , then by men . From hence I passed through Montargis , a neat pleasant towne ; in the great Hall of whose Castle , is painted the history of the dog that fought a Duel with the Murderer of his Master ; and it is not strange that the Dog , that had put on humanity , ouercame him that had put it of , to espouse the deuouring humour of a Dog. This is the chief towne of the Gastinois . From hence I went to Briare where I saw the cut channel that ioynes Loire and Sene together in trafick , whose bedds oftherwise stand wide from one another in situation . From thence to Cosne , la Charité , Pougues famous for wholesome stincking waters ; Neuers , famous for glasse houses ; Moulins , famous for kniues and Cizars : la Palisse where they make excellent winter bootes : Roanne where Loire beginns to be nauigable : and so ouer Terrara hills to Lyons . Lyons is one of the greatest and richest townes in France . It stands vpon the riuers Saone , and Rhosne , ( Araris and Rhodanus ) and intercepting all the merchandize of Burgondy , Germany , and Italy , It licks its fingers notably , and thriues by it . It expresseth this in its looks : for here you haue hansome people , noble houses , great jollity , frequent balls , and much brauery : all markes of a good towne : and could it but intercept either the Parlament of Aix , or Grenoble , it would be as noble as its name , or as its Catedral Chapter , whose Deane and Prebends are all counts , and noble of four descents ▪ they got the title of counts thus : A great contest arriseing between the Chapter of S. Iohns Church , and the Count de Forests called Guigo , for some rights ouer the towne of Lyons which they both pretended to ; at last anno 1166. they came to an agreement , vpon this condition , that the Count should leaue to the Chapter his County of Forests ; which he did ; and so euer since the Decane and Prebends haue been called Counts of S. Iohn . The cheif things to be seen in Lyons are these . 1. The great Church , or Cathedral , called Iohns Church . It s the Seat of an Archbishop , who is Primat of Gaule . S. Irenaeus was a great ornament of this Church , as was also Eucherius . Vpon solemne dayes the Canons officiate in Miters like Bishops . They sing here all the office by heart , and without booke , as also without pricksong musick , organs , or other instrumens , vseing onely the ancient plainsong . The High Altar is like those of Italy , that is , open on all sides , with a Crucifixe and two little candlestiks vpon it . I neuer saw any hangings in this Church , not vpon the greatest dayes , but Venerable old walls . The clock here is much cryed vp for a rare peice . 2. The stately new Towne house , of pure white freestone , able to matche that of Amsterdam ; and indeed they seemed to me to be twinns ; for I saw them both in the same yeare as they were in building . The curious stair-case , and Hall aboue , are the things most worthy taking notice of , the owne for its contriuanc ; the other for its painting . 3. The Jesuits Colledge and fair Library . 4. The Carthusians Monastery vpon a high Hill. 5. The Minimes Sachristy well painted . 6. The rests of the old Aqueduct vpon the Hill. 7. The Mail , and the sweet place of Belle Cour. 8. The Heart of saint Francis de Sales in the Church of the Visitation in Belle Cour. 9. The Charité where all the poore are kept at worke with admirable oeconomy : It looks like a little towne , haueing in it nine courts , all built up with lodgeings for the poore , who are about fifteen hundred , and diuided into seueral Classes , with their seueral Refectories and Chappels . 10. The Head of S. Bonauenture in the Cordeliers Church . 11. The Castle of Pierre Ancise , built vpon a rock . 12. Nostre Dame de Fouruier standing vpon a high hill , from whence you haue a perfect view of Lyons . 13. Lastly the rare Cabinet of Monsieur Seruier a most ingenious gentleman ; where I saw most rare experiments in Mathematiks and Mechanicks ; all made by his owne hand : as the sympatheticall balls , one springing vp at the approach of the other held vp a pretty distance off : the demonstration of a quick way how to passe an army ouer a riuer with one boat , and a woodden bridge easily to be foulded vp vpon one cart : the mouse dyall , where a little thing , like a mouse , by her insensible motion , markes the houres of the day . The Lizard Dyal is much like the former , onely the mouse moues vpon a plain frame of wood which hath the houres marked on it ; and the Lizard creeps vpward from houre to houre . The night dyall , shewing by a lighted lamp set behinde it , the houres of the night , which are painted in colours vpon oyled Paper , and turne about as the time goes . The Tortoise dyall , where a peice of cork cut like a Tortoise , being put into a puter dish of water , which hath the twelue houres of the day marked upon its brims , goeth vp and downe the water a while , seeking out the houre of the day that is then ; and there fixeing it self without stirring . The Rare engine teaching how to throw Grenados into beseiged townes , and into any precise place without fayling . The way how to set vp a watch-tower with a man in it , to looke into a towne from without , and see how they are drawne vp within the towne . a way how to change dineing Roomes three or four times , with their tables , the Seats and ghests being by the turning of a wheele transported sitting , out of one Roome into another ; and so into three or four more Roomes variously hung with tables couered . The Desk dyall , which throwes vp a little ball of yuory without rest , and thereby marketh the houre of the day , and sheweth what a clock it is : the Dyall of the Planets representing the dayes of the week by seueral figures in iuory of the planets : the Oual dyal in which the needle that markes the houres , shrinketh in , or stretcheth out it self according as the oual goes : the dyall shewing to euery one that toucheth it his predominant passion ; with a world of other rare curiosityes , all made by this ingenious gentleman . Leauing Lyons , I embarked in a Cabanne , or little couered boat , and descending the rapid Rhosne , I came poste by wather , to Vienne ; were Pontius Pilate , bannished hither , threw himself off a high Tower , and killed himself . The Cathedral of this towne is a faire Church dedicated to God , in the honour of S. Maurice : there are neither Pictures , nor hangings in this Church . From hence I went to Tournon , where I saw a good Library in the Colledge . Thence to Valence in Dauphiné , where Law is taught . From whence I came to Pont Saint Esprit famous for its long bridge of therty three arches , and for the bones of a Gyant which are conserued in the Dominicans Conuent here ; And from hence to Auignon . Auignon is the head towne of a little country , called Vulgarly the Le Contad d'Auignon . It belongs to the Pope , hauing been purchased by one of his predecessors anciently of Iane Queen of Naples and Countesse of Auignon : and it serued for a saif retreat to diuers Popes consecutiuely , during the troubles of Italy which lasted aboue seauenty yeares . At last , Italy , and the Popes territories there , being cleared by the admirable courage and conduct of braue Cardinal Albornozzo , who conquered againe all the Popes estate , The Pope , Greg. the XI , returned home againe to Rome ▪ of the foresayd Cardinal Albornozzo I cannot omit to tell one thing ; that after his great seruices rendered to the Pope , being enuyed by some of the Court , who had perswaded his Holyness to call him to an accompt for the great sommes of monye he had spent in reduceing againe the whole state of the Pope vnto its obedience ; he brought the next morning a cart laden with chaines , bolts , locks and keys belonging once to those townes which he had retaken for the Pope , and place-ed it vnder the Popes window : then going vp , and desiring his Holiness to draw to a window to see his accompts the better , he opened the window , and shewed him below , the Cart laden with chaines , bolts , locks and keys , saying : Holy Father , I spent all your money in making you master againe of those townes whose keys , locks , bolts and chaines you see in that cart below . At which the Pope admireing , desired no more accompt of him , who proued his honesty by whole cart loads of seruices . Euer since that time , Auignon hath belongd to the Pope ; and he gouerneth it by a Vice-Legat immediatly , the Popes Nep●ew pro tempore being allwayes Legat of this towne . The things I saw here were these . 1. The Cathedral Church with diuers tombes of Popes in it that dyed here . 2. The Church of S. Didier , with the tombe of Peirus Damianus who followed the Pope hither : He was famous for his learned works , and his knowne sanctity . 3. The Church of the Celestins , with the tombe , and neat Chappel of Cardinal Peter of Luxenbourg , a yong man of a great family , and of a greater sanctity . 4. The Carthusians Monastery in the bourg of Villeneuue , where you shall see much good painting . 5. The Dominicans fair Conuent , with the Chappel and true Picture of S. Vincentius Ferrerius a holy man of this Order . 6. The Cordeliers Church famous for its widenesse , and yet not supported by any pillars . Here lyes buryed Madame Laura rendered so famous by Petrarchs Verses : not that the was a dishonest woman , but onely chosen by him , to be the poëticall mistresse of his sonnets . 7. The Church of the Fathers of the Christian doctrine , with the body , yet entire , of the Founder of their order P. Caesar de Bus , a man of such singular sanctity , that Cardinal Richlieu banished hither , whiles he was onely Bishop of Luson , offered and vowed a syluer Lampe to God at the tombe of this holy Bea●● . 8. The fine freestone walls of this towne , the admirable Bridge , many hansome Pallaces , and curious gardens . 9. The trading of this towne , which consists much in silkstuffs , parfumed gloues , rubans , and sine paper . 10. The inhabitants here , who loue to go well adiusted and appeare in fine clothes . From Auignon I went by Land to Aix in Prouence , an Vniuersity , a Parlament towne , and one of the neatest townes in France : of the Parlament of this towne Monsieur du Vair was the first President , and a singular ornament , by reason of his famous eloquence . This towne is the seat of an Archbishop ; and is now possessed by Cardinal Grimaldi who is Archbishop here . From hence I went to Marseilles . Marseilles is a very ancient towne , built 633 yeares before our Sauiours time , and so famous anciently for learning , that it was compared with Athens . It stands vpon the Medeterranean Sea , and hath a most neat hauen and harbour for ships and gallyes . I stayd here eight dayes to wait vpon the returne of two Gallies of Genua , that had brought an Embassadour from thence into France , and were to returne within a few dayes . In this time I had leisure to make a little excursiue Voyage to the famous place of deuotion called La Sainte Beaume , where S. Mary Magdalen liued a most penitential life in these mountains and deserts , euen after she had been assured of her pardon by out Sauiour himself . The place it self is able to make any man that considereth it well , melt into some pennance too , and sigh at least , to see how much she ( a woman ) did , and how little he ( a man ) doth ; for excellentissima animaduertenti , ne mediocria quidem praestare , rubori oportet esse , saith a great Author . In Marseills it self there remaine some prints of her begunn pennance : but she that had been a sinner in the Cytie ( and perchance by that occasion onely ) thought the Desert a safer place ; and so shewed her conuersion to be true , by flying the occasions of her former sinns . If you aske me , how Mary Magdalen came hither ; I must aske you , how Ioseph of Arimathia came into England : and learned Baronius will answer vs both , by telling vs , that vpon a persecution raysed against the Christians in Hierusalem ; Mary Magdalen , her Sister Martha , her brother Lazarus , with Ioseph of Arimathia and diuers others of the first Christians , were exposed to Sea in a ship without sayles , without rudder , without anker , without pilot , and yet the ship came happily to Marseills ; where Lazarus preaching the faith of Christ , was made the first Bishop of this towne ; and Ioseph of Arimathia came into England . Neare to Saincte Beaume stands , the towne of S. Maximin famous for the Church of S. Maximin gouerned by Dominican Fryers : In this Church are to be seen many famous Relicks of S. Mary Magdalen ; as her head in a Chrystal case enchased in gold : her body in a guilt chasse , and diuers other rich things . Haueing seen Marseilles , I embarked in the forsayd Gallies , and was nine dayes in them before I arriued at Genua ; haueing seen in the way , Toulon , Nice , Antibo , Monaco , and Sauona . Thus I passed , though tediously , yet securely from France into Italy by Sea : and I could allmost wish my Traueler to take the same course , if he were sure to finde two Gallies well manned as I did , to carry him thither . Otherwise to venture himself ( as men ordinarily with extraordinary danger do ) in a little Feluca , a boat little bigger then a pair of oares , is a thing I would wish none to do , but Pyrrhonians , and Indifferents who think danger and security to be the same thing . For my part , though I dare not say with that cowardly Italian , who being laughed at for running away in a battle , answered : I was not affrayd , but onely had a mind to try , how long a mans skinn , well kept , would last : yet I dare say with Generous Cato , that I repent me soundly , if euer I went by water , when I could haue gone by Land. My third Voyage . MY third Voyage into Italy was againe by the way of Paris and Lyons : but now by Geneua and Swisserland . Parting then from Lyons I passed ouer the Grand Credo , a smart hill ; through Nantua standing vpon a Lake , and in two dayes came to Geneua . Geneua , like a good sinke at the bottom of three streets , is built at the bottom of Sauoye , France , and Germany , and therefore fit to receiue into it the corruption , of the Apostatas of the Roman Church . The things which I saw in Geneua were these : 1. The great Church of S. Peter , the Cathedral anciently of the Bishop of this towne . In the Quire I saw yet remaining the Pictures of the twelue Prophets on one side , and the pictures of the twelue Apostles on the other side , all engrauen in wood . The pictures also of the Blessed Virgin Mary , and S. Peter , in one of the windows . Here also I saw the Tombe of the Duke of Bouillon General of the army of Germans , called then in France the Reiters , who in the battle of Aulneau were beaten by the Duke of Guise and forced to fly to Geneua , haueing last 1800 of their men vpon the place , most of them with charmes about their necks , which they thought would haue made them shott free . Mounting vp to the steeple , I saw a fair Bell with a Crucifix cast vpon it , shewing whose it was ; and four good peices of ordinance , that none may say , the Church of Geneua wants Ecclesiasticall Cannons . And a little below in the Belfree , there liue in seueral Chambers , three or four families of husbands and wifes and sucking children begotten there ; contrary to the Canons of any other Church , except those of Geneua . From the top of this Church you haue a fair prospect vpon the lake and neighbouring countryes ; which makes them brag here , that they can see from their steeple , into six seueral principalities , to wit , their owne , France , Sauoye , Swisserland , the Valesians , and the Franchecounty : But I told them , it would be a greater brag , to say , that they could see into no other country , or dominions but their owne . 2. I saw the Arsenal , little , but well stored with defensiue armes . They neuer forget to shew the Ladders of the Sauoyards , who attempted to surpize this towne by scaleing , but were themselues taken and beheaded à la chaude , least some Prince should haue interceded for them . 3. The Towne house with the Chamber where the Magistrats ( something like the Hogen Mogens of Holland ) sit in Counsel . 4. They shewd me here a Library but none of the best . 5. The admirable Trouts here , able to make the poore Apostatas wish for their Lent againe ; were it not , that the Capons here are full as good in their kinde . As for the Gouerment of this towne , it was anciently Monarchical , and the Bishop was Prince of it vnder the Duke of Sauoye : but Farel and Caluin comeing hither with their anarchical Presbyterie , droue the Bishop Peter de la Beaume out of the towne ; and established there a kinde of Democratie , or rather , a kind of Aristocratie , mingled of Laymen and Ministers . Yet the Bishop keeps still his title , and the Chapter its reuenews and Lands , which happily lye in Sauoye out of the reach of the short iurisdiction of Geneua . Both the Bishop and Chapter reside in Anisy in Sauoye , and officiate in the Cordeliers Church . of this Seat was Bishop the late Canonized Saint , S. Francis de Sales , a man of singular sweetness and piety , mingled with zeale and discretion . I haue red of him , that in his life time , he made four thousand sermons to the people . Hauing thus seen the little All of Geneua , I made towards Swisserland , leauing the Lake on my right hād ; or rather takeing it on my right hand ; for it would needs accompany me to Lausanna , where it tooke leaue of me , or I of it . This Lake is absolutly the fairest I haue seen : it s fairer then either the Lake Maior , the Lake of Como , the Lake of Zuric , the Lake of Walenstat , the Lake of Jsee , the Lake of Murat , or the Lake of Garda . In some places this Lake of Geneua is eight miles broad , and well nigh fifty miles long . I haue red of a stranger , who traueling that way alone in winter , when the Lake was all frozen ouer , and couered with snow , tooke the Lake for a large plain , and rid vpon it eight , or ten miles to the towne : Where lighting at his Inn , and commending the fine plain ouer which he had ridden , was giuen to vnderstand , that he had ridden , if not in the air , at least fifteen fathom aboue ground ; at which , the poore man reflecting vpon the danger he had been in , fell downe dead with the conceit of it . Thus we are troubled not onely at euils to come but at euils past ; and are neuer so neare the danger of death , as when we are newly past it . No animal but man , hath this folly . Leauing then , as I sayd , the Lake I came soone after , to Lausanna in Swisserland , belonging to the Canton of Berne . Here I saw an ancient Church of a noble structure , and once a Bishops Cathedral , but now possessed by Ministers of Caluins communion ; and the man that shewed vs the Church ( though no Catholick ) assured vs , that the records of that Church bore , that Masse had been sayd in it thirteen hundred yeares agoe . From Lausanna I went towards Soleur , skirting through the Cantons , sometimes of Berne , sometimes of Fribourg , and sometimes in one dayes iourney , I passed into a Catholick Canton , and by and by , into a Protestant Canton againe : for here Catholick and Protestant Villages are mingled together , and make the country looke like the back side of a pair of tables checquered with white and black . In one Village you haue a Crosse set vp , to signifie that it is Catholick belonging to the Canton of Friburg ; by and by in an other Village , a high flag with the picture of a Beare in it , to signifie , that it belongs to the Canton of Berne , and is Protestant : and yet they liue ciuilly and neighbourly together without quarreling about Religion . Passing thus a long , I came to Soleur ( Soloturrum in Latin ) a neat towne and Head of a Canton . They are all Catholicks here : and here it is that the French Embassadours to the Swissers , alwayes reside , as the Spanish Embassadors do at Lucerna . This towne is very ancient , as the golden Letters vpon the clock testifye ; for those words make Soleur to be onely yonger then her Sister Treuers , which , as Aeneas Syluius writes , was built 1300 yeares before Rome . As for Soleur , I find in good Cronologers that it was built 2030 years after the creation of the world . From Soleur I went to Murat , a little towne famous for a great battle fought hard by it , by the Duke of Burgondy , and the Swissers . For the the Duke of Burgondy beseiging Murat , the Swissers came vpon him with a great army , and defeated him . I was told here that the Duke seeing his army defeated , and himself enuironed on one side by the Lake here ; and on the other side , by the enemyes conquering army , chose rather to trust himself to the Lake , then to his ennemyes . Wherevpon spurring his horse into the Lake , one of his Dages , to saue himself also , leaped vp behind him as he tooke water . The Duke out of feare either perceiued him not at first , or dissembled it till he came to the other side of the Lake which is two miles broad : The stout horse tugged through with them both , and saued them both from drowning , but not both from death . For the Duke seing in what danger his page had put him , stabbed the Page with his dagger . Poore Prince ! thou mighst haue giuen an other offering of thanks giueing to God for thy escape then this ; nay , thou mighst haue been as ciuil as thy horse , and haue spaired him , whom beasts and waues had saued : At least by that means , thou mighst haue saueed thy owne honour , by saueing that poore page who offended rather out of feare of death , then out of malice ; and thereby thou mighst haue truly sayd , that thou hadst not lost all thy men in that battle . But passion is a blind thing : Nothing is so dangerous to man , as man ; and , as I obserued aboue , we are neuer in greater danger , then when we think we are past danger . Thebones of the Burgundians slain in this battle , are seen in a great Chappel , which stands a little distant from the towne , and vpon the road , with an inscription vpon it touching the time and circumstances of this defeat . From Murat I made towards Zuric , a head towne also of a Canton . It stands most sweetly vpon a Lake whose crystalin waters would delight any body else but Swissers . They are all here , Swinglians ; and when Mareshal D'Estrée the French Embassadour to Rome , passed that way , and lodged at the great Jnn of the Sword , as he was combing his head one morning in his combing cloth , with his chamber window open , some of the townes men , who saw him ( from an other opposit window ) putting on that combeing cloth , and thinking it had been a Priest putting on the Amice and vesting himself for to say Masse before the Embassadour in his chamber , began with a Dutch clamour to stirre vp the people to a mutiny about the Embassadours house , and to call for the Priest , that was saying of Masse : The Embassadour at first , not vnderstanding the cause of this vproare about his house , rann downe with sword in hand , and in his combeing cloth , to check the first man that should darre to enter his lodgings : but vnderstanding at last , that his combing cloth had caused this iealousy , hee laughed at their folly , and retired away contented . The best things to be seen in Zuric are these . 1. The neat Arsenal furnished with store of fair Cannons and armes of all sortes . 2. The great Library , but in this much lesse esteemed by mee , because a woman had the Key of it , and let vs in to see it . This peice of false Latin at the entrance , disgusted me with all that I saw there , and made me hasten out quickly : Good Libraries should not fall en quenoüille . 3. The Wheeles which draw vp water from the Lake of themselues , and empty it into seueral Pipes , & so conueigh it all ouer the towne . 4. The publick great drinking hall , where there are a world of little tables for men of seueral corporations or trayds to meet at , and either talk there of their business , or make drinking their business . Ouer euery table hangs the signe of each trad , as a Last for shoomakers , a saddle for sadlers , a sword for cutlers &c. There is a great Bell that rings to this meeting place euery day at two a clock , and when I heard so solemne a ringing , I thought it had been to some Church deuotion , not to a drinking assembly . From Zuric I went by water , that is , vpon the lake a whole dayes iourney , and passed vnder a bridge of wood which crosseth quite ouer the lake for two miles . It s entertained at the cost of the King of Spayne , to passe the soldiers which he often rayseth in the adiacent countryes . From hence I went to Coire , or Cear , the head towne of the Grisons . The Bishop and the Clergy of the great Church , with some few others liuing within the precincts of the Cloister of the great Church , are Catholicks , and performe their deuotions in the Church without controll : the rest of the inhabitants are Swinglians , and possesse the towne ; yet they suffer the Bishop , and his Clergy to liue quietly in the midst of them . They shewed me here in this Church , diuers fine Relicks , especially the Head ( enchased in syluer ) of our ancient Brittan King Lucius , the first Christian king that euer made profession of Christian . Religion , and the first who helpt to plant it here . The ancient Church office here relates all this , as their Church bookes shewed me . From the Grisons I went to the Country of the Valtaline ; a country subiect to the Grisons and keeping its fidelity to them euen when it would not haue wanted assistance from Spayne and Italy , if it would haue been false to its Superiors the Grisons vnder the colour of Religion : those of the Valtaline being all Catholicks , and their souuerains the Grisons Caluinists . In a little towne of the Grisons ( called Herberga ) I was shewed a cheese ( and giuen to taste of it too ) by myne hoste , the Maior of the towne , a Caluinist in Religion , and a Venerable old man , who assured me seriously , that that cheese was a hundred years old ▪ a Venerable Cheese indeed ! and well nigh as old as his Religion . Between these two countryes of the Grisons and the Valtaline , stands the great Hill Berlino : ouer which I passed ; and fell from thence upon Posciauo a little bourg , and so to our Ladyes of Tirano a neat Church with a fair Inn hard by it . Others , to auoyd the snow of Berlino , are forced now and then ( as I was once ) to passe ouer the mountain Splug , which is hill enough for any traueler . From our Ladyes of Tirano I went vp a smart hill called Mount Aurigo , and so makeing towards the Lake of Wallinstade , I passed it ouer in boate ; as I did also soone after , that of Isee ; and so fell into the territories of Brescia in Italy belonging to the state of Venice . My fourth Voyage . MY fourth voyage into Italy was from Lyons againe and Geneua , where I now tooke the Lake on my left hand , and passing along the skirts of Sauoye , I came to Boueretta , a little Village , and so to S. Maurice the first towne in the Valetians country , This towne is so called from S. Maurice the Braue Commander of the Theban Legion , in the primitiue times , and who was martyred here for the profession of Christian Religion together with his whole Legion . Hence an Abbey was built here by Sigismond King of Burgondy , and called S. Maurice . Now , this country is called the country of the Valesians , from the perpetuall Valley in which it lyeth . The people haue for their Prince the Bishop of Sion the cheif towne of the country . Their Valley is aboue four dayes iourney long , besides their hills which are two more : Most of their little townes and Villages stand vpon hill sides , leauing all the plain country for tillage and pasturage . Their houses are low and darke , many of them hauing no windowes , and the rest very little ones . Sed casa pugnaces Curios angusta tegebat . As for the people here , they are all Catholicks , sinceare honest men , of stout courage , yet of innocent liues , much snow quenching their lust , and high mountains staueing of from them all luxe and Vanity , the harbingers of Vice. They haue short hair on their heads , but beards in folio . They are got so farre into the grande mode , as to weare breeches and doublets ; but that 's all : for otherwise their clothes looke as if they had been made by the Taylors of the old Patriarcks ; or as if the fashion of them had been taken out of old hangings and tapistry . In fine , both men and women here are great and massiue , and not easily to be blowne away : so that I may iustly say of this people , as Cardinal Bentiuoglio sayd of the Swissers , that they are good for the Alpes , and the Alpes for them . One thing I obserued particularly in this windy country , which is , that they haue many natural fooles here , which makes me thinck it no vulgar errour , which is commonly sayd , that the climats that are most agitated with winds produce more fooles , then other climats do . As for their strength , vpon a defensiue occasion , they can assemble forty thousand men together vnder their knowne Commanders , who are often times the Innkeepers in whose houses we lodge ; but out of their owne pit they are not to be feared , haueing neither spirits , nor sinnews : that is , neither ambition , nor money , to carry on a forrain warre . From S. Maurice I went to Martigni a great Inn in a poore Village , and from thence to Sion . Sion ( anciently Sedunum , ) is the cheif towne of the country , and stands in the center of it . Here the Bishop , who is Prince , resideth with his Chapter and Cathedral on one hill , and his Castle stands on another hill hard by . The Court of this Prince is not great , because of his , and his peoples quality . A good Bishop hath something els to do , then to be courted , and good plain people must follow their trads , not Courts . This Prince hath no Gards , because no fears : and if danger should threaten him , his people , whose loue is his onely Arsenal , haue hands enough to defend him . So that the Prince and People , that is ▪ the Body Politick of this state , seemed to mee like the Body natural in man , where the soul and the body being freinds together , the soul directs the body , and the body defends the Soul. From Sion I went to Lucia , but lodged a quarter of a mile from the towne ; and from thence I reached Briga at night . Briga is a little Village standing at the foot of great hills ; where haueing rested well all night , at the Colonels house ( the best Inn here ) we began the next morning to clime the hills for a breakfast . For the space of three houers our horses eased vs , the ascent not being so surley as we expected from so rugged a brow of hills : but when wee came to the steep of the hill it self Mount Sampion , ( one of the great Staircases of Italy ) we were forced to compliment our horses , and go a foot . It was towards the very begining of October when we passed that way , and therfore found that Hill in a good humour ; otherwise it s froward enough . Haueing in one houres time crawled vp the steep of the Hill , we had two houres more rideing to the Village and Inn of Sampion : where arriueing , we found little meat for our great stomacks , and cold comfort for all the hot stincking Stone . At last haueing payd for a dinner here , though we saw nothing we could eate , we were the lighter in purse , as well as in body , to walke well that afternoone , rather then that afterdinner . To describe you the rough way we had between Sampion and Deuedra , downe hill alwayes , or fetching about hills vpon a narrow way artificially made out of the side of those hills , and sometimes sticking out of them , as if it had been plaistered to them , were able to make my pen ake in writing it , as well as my leggs in walkeing it . And here I found the Prouerb false which saith , that its good walking with a horse in ones hand : for here we could neither ride , nor lead our horses securely , but either the one , or the other were in danger of stumbling , that is , of falling fiue hundred fadome deep . For here , as well as in warre , semel tantum peccatur , a man need but stumble once for all his lifetime : Yet by letting our horses go loose with the bridle on their necks , and makeing a man go before each horse , least they should iumble one another downe ( as I once saw the like done by horses in Swisserland ) we arriued safely at Deuedra that night . You would do well also to light from horse at the going ouer all the little trembling Bridges of wood which you will finde there , remembring the Italian Prouerb , which saith : Quando tu Vedi vn Ponte , falli piu honore che iu non fai a vn Conte . Haueing reposed all night in the house of the Signor Castellano , we went the next morning to Domodoscela a litle garrison towne of the state of Milan , troublesome enough to trauelers that passe from Milan this way , and carry pistols and gunns without licence . From Domodescela we passed through a fine plain country to Marguzzi , a little Village standing vpon the Lake Maior ( anciently called Lacus Verbanus ) where making our bargain with our boat-men ro carry vs in one day from thence to Sesto , & keep aloof of from the command of all the Castles , which now and then warne boates to come in ; and vnder pretence of searching them for marchandize , stopp passingers till they haue screwed a peece of monny out of them . Arriueing saif at Sesto that night we tooke Coache the next day for Milan , and dineing at Ciuita Castellanza , arriued be times at that great towne which was called anciently Altera Roma : a second Rome . My fift Voyage . MY fift voyage into Italy was still from Lyons , but now by the way of Mount Cenis , and Turin , the ordinary Post rode , and I think the easyest way of all the rest . Parting then from Lyons on horseback , we passed through Verpillier , La Tour du Pin , Beaunoysin ( whose bridge parts France , and Sauoy ) and came in two dayes to the foot of Mount Aiguebellet , the threshold of the Alpes : This is a pretty breathing hill , and may be called , the Alpes foule ouer , or the Alpes in a running hand and not in that fair Text hand which I found Mount Cenis to be in . It hath all the lineaments and shapes of the great Alpes , that is , much winding and turning ; deep precipices , Marons , or , men with little open chairs , to carry you vp and downe the hill for a crowne ; and much stumbling worke . In fine this hill ressembles Mount Cenis , as a proper man may do a Gyant . Hauing passed this Hill , and by it through the very clowds , we fel as it were out of the skyes , vpon Chambery the cheif towne of Sauoy , and where the Parlament resides , We cast to be there at the solemne Entry , which this Duke made for his new Spouse the third daughter of the late Duke of Orleans , when she came first into this country . To describe all the Triumphal Arches in the Streets , with their Emblems and mottos rarely painted ; the stately Throne a litle out of the towne , where the Duke and Dutchesse receiued the compliments of their subiects ; the rich liueries of the young townesmen on horsback ; the gallantery of the Noblemen and gentlemen of the country ( 800 in all ) their horses at fine as they ; the Parlament men , and other officers of Iustice all in black veluet gownes ; the Clergy and Religious marching in the mean time humbly a foot and in procession ; the Dukes two companies of horse in veluet coats of crimosin colour embrodered with gold and syluer ; The Pages and footmen of the Duke and Dutchess in crimosin Veluet layd thick with gold and syluer lace ; in fine , the Duke and Dutchesse on horseback as brillant as the sun , would fill a book alone , which I haue no mind to do , seing there is one extant already in a iust volume . Leauing then Chambery the next day after the Shew , we went to Montmelian to dinner . This is a strong Castle vpon a high rock , ouerlooking the riuer Isere , and commanding the passage here which is straight between the hills . The strength of this Castle appeared when it withstood the Royal army of Lewis the XIII of France for fifteen months , and made him rayse the Seige when he had done . Here is still a strong garrison in it , and store of ammunition , and all things necessary for the defence of a strong place . They shewed vs in it their deep well for fresh water in the midst of a high rock ; their excellent peeces of Artillary , one whereof is sayd to carry four miles , that is , to Fort Barreau a little Fort belonging to France , which is two leagues from hence , and which you see from this Castle . From Montmelian we had rough way to Aiguebelle ; thence to S. Iohn Morian , to S. Michel , and at last to Lasnebourg , which stands at the foot of Mount Cenis the highest of all the hills I passed ouer in my seueral voyages into Italy , or out of it ; to wit , Sampion , Berlin , Splug , and S. Godarde . This Hill of Mount Cenis parting Sauoy and Italy , shall be the place where I will now begin my Description of Italy , haueing hitherto onely described the seueral wayes into it . The description and Voyage of Italy . ARRIVEING then , as I sayd before , at the foot of Mount Cenis , anciently called Cinisium ; and resting all night at Lasnebourg we agreed with the Marons , to carry vs vp the hill , and downe the Hill , as also euer the plain , and in fine , all the way to Noualese it self . All this is to be expressed in your bargain with then , otherwise they will cauil with you , and make you go ouer the plain a foot . The price is , a Spanish pistol for euery man that 's carryed . Those that are strong and vigorous , ride vp vpon mules , and walke downe a foot . We began to mount at our going out of our Inn at Lasnebourg , and hauing passed by La Ramassa ( where men are posted downe the Hill vpon the snow in sledges with great celerity and pleasure ) after two houres tugging of our chairmen , or Marōs , we came to the top of the hill , and a little after to the Posthouse , and the little Hospital vpon the plain : Thence passing by the Chappel , of the Transis ( that is , of those who are found dead of cold in the snow , and are buryed here ) we came to the great Crosse and Tauerne , where we began to descend . This Hill of Mount Cenis is four miles in the going vp , four miles vpon the plain , and two in its descent to Noualese . Arriuing about noone at Noualese , we dined , horsed , and went that night to Susa . Susa , anciently Segesium , is a strong towne , and one of the gates of Italy . For this reason , the French in their late long warre with Spayne , kept it a long time in their hands , as well as Pignorola , which they still keep vpon treaty , to let them into Italy , when they haue a mind . It s strength consists wholly in a Castle built vpon a high rock close to the towne , and commanding all the passage betwixt the two mountains . This towne is famous in the latter history , for the smart action of the French , when they beat downe the twelue seueral Barriers , whereby the Duke of Sauoy thought to haue choaked their passage . This ●action is famous in history , by the name of le Pas de Suze . Here at Susa begins Piedmont . From Susa we went to S. Ambrosio , & passed by Riuolle a fine house of the Dukes , standing in good ayre , and at night we came to Turin . Turin , anciently called Augusta Taurinorum , is situated in a plain neare the foot of the hills and vpon the bancks of the riuer Po , which begins here to be nauigable , and from hence carryes boats to Ferrara , Chiosa and Venice . This Po is a noble riuer , and very large in some places , especially a little below Ferrara ; yet I haue read that in a great drouth which happened in the yeare of the world 2470 it was dryed vp and rendered innauigable . This Turin is the Seat of one of the greatest Princes in Italy , the Duke of Sauoy , and Prince of Piedmont , who is also treated with the title of Altezza Reale , and Vicario Generale del Imperio in Italia . This house of Sauoy which now gouerns here , came anciently from Siguardo King of Saxony , in the yeare of Christ 636 , and hath conserued it self euer since , that is , for a thousand and odd years in a continual series of heroical Princes , whose Pedegree was neuer vitiated nor interrupted by any degenerate offspring . Fiue Emperors , and four Kings haue yssued out of this house . Anciently the Dukes of Sauoy kept their Court at Chambery , or els at Bourg en Bresse , a country now belonging to France , vpon exchang with the Marquisat of Saluzzo ; as many of their tombes curiously cut in marble in the Augustins Church there yet shew . It was Amadeo the Vof that name , Duke of Sauoy , that transferred the Court to Turin . It was also this Amadeo who in memory of his Granfather Amadeo the IV , who had defended Rhodes so brauely , instituted the kinghthood of the Annunciata , with this single motto in the collar of the order F. E. R. T. signifying , that Fortitudo Eius Rhodum Tenuit . The subiects of this Prince are sayd to be about eighteen hundred thousand souls . His whole country with Piedmont and all , is iudged to be two hundred miles long , and fifty broad . His forces thirty three thousand foot , and fiue thousand horse : and his Reuenews to be about a million of crownes , besides what he can now and then rayse out of that fat country of Piedmont . His Jnterest is , to keep well with France , and not fall out with Spayne . As for the towne it self of Turin , it s almost squar , and hath four gates in it ; a strong Cittadel with fiue bastions to it ; it s well furnished with good prouisions in the market ; it stands in a fat soyle , which makes it a little too durty in winter , and it is an vniuersity . The cheif things which I saw here , were these . 1. The Domo , or Great Church , in which is kept with great deuotion the Holy Syndon , in which our Sauiours body was wound vp and buryed : of the Verity of this Relick see Baronius in his Ecclesiastical History ad an . 34 num . 138. It s keept in a Chappel ouer the High Altar and showne publickly vpon certain dayes , and priuatly To Embassadours and Prelats , as they passe that way . The late Duchesse Madame Christina , began to make a fine Chappel for to keep it in , but is was not quite finished when I passed that way last . The Chappel is all of black marble adorned with stately black marble pillars : indeed winding sheets ( such as this Relick is ) are things of mourning , and are best set out in a mourning way . 2. The Cittadelle standing at the back of the towne , and keeping it in awe . This Duke and his mother found the conuenience of this Cittadelle , when by factions within the towne against them , they were forceed to this Cittadelle , and there weather it out stoutly , till succour comeing to them from France , made them masters againe of the towne , and their enemyes . 3. The Dukes new Pallace hansomely bu●lt with a fair Court before it , a great Piazza , and a large open street leading vp to it . The Chambers are faire , and hung with hangings of cloth of Tyssue of a new and rich fabrik , with rich embrodered beds , chairs , stools , cloth of State , and Canopies . The Dutchesses Cabinet , the curious bathing place aboue , hund round with the true pictures in litle of the prime Ladyes of Europe : The curious inuention for the Dutchesse to conuey her selfe vp from her bedchamber to that bathing roome , by a pully and a swing , with great ease and saifty : the great Hall painted curiously : the Noble staircase : the old long Gallery 100 paces long , with the Pictures in it of the Princes and Princesses of the house of Sauoy , with the Statues of the ancient Emperours and Philosophers in marble , with a rare Library locked vp in great cubbords , are the cheif rooms and ornaments of this Pallace . I saw also the Appartiments or lodgeings of the old Dutchesse Madame Christina , which ioyne to the old Gallery , and in her Cabinet I saw many choyce pictures . 4. The new street , which runeth from the Pallace to the Piazza Reale , is a fair street and built vniformly . The shops below afford great conueniency to the townes men , and the fair lodgings aboue to the noblemen and Courtiers . 5. The Piazza Reale is built hansomly vpon Pillars , like our Couent Garden , and is full of nothing els but noblemens houses . 6. The Augustins Church called S. Carlo , standing in this piazza , adornes it much , being a neat Church and the best contriued that I saw in this towne . 7. The Capucins Church vpon a hill out of the towne , is aboue the rate of Capucins : but you must know who gaue it , not who haue it . From hence I had a perfect view of Turin with the country about it . 8. Some three miles out of the towne I saw a neat house of the Dukes , called La Venerie Royale . The Court set round with stagg● heads ; the chambers full of good Pictures ; the Hall painted with great Pictures of the Duke , his mother , his sisters , and other Ladyes all on horseback as if they were going a hunting ; the place where they keep pheasants , partridges , and other such like birds , the stable for 100 horse , and the neat dogkennel , are the best things to be seen in this house . 9 On the other side of the towne , about a mile of , I saw the old Dutchesses house called La Valentine . It stands pleasantly vpon the banks of Po , and is adorned with great variety of pictures . In fiue or six roomes , on the right hand of the house , they shewed me a world of pictures of all sorts of Flowers : on the left hand , as many of all sorts of birds , with other pictures curiously painted . The four pictures representing the four Elements , with all that belongs to them , as all the birds that fly in the air ; all the beasts that are found vpon the Earth ; all the fishes and shells that are found in the water ; and all things that belong to fire , are so curiously painted in their seueral particular shaps & colours , that these four peeces are and abridgment of all nature , and the admiration of all that behold them . There are some other good peeces here too ; as the Magdalen fallen into an extasie : the rapt of the Sabins ; and diuers others . The others houses about the towne , as Millefleur belonging to the Duke ; the Villa of the Princesse Marie ; with diuers others which shew themselues vpon the Hill side , are very stately , and worth seeing . Hauing thus seen Turin , we left the ordinary road , which leads to Milan ( to wit , by the way of Vercelle and Nouara , two strong townes frontier to one another , through which I passed in another voyage ) and to auoyd two armyes which lay in the way , chose to steere towards Genua by the low way of Sauona . And passing through a melancholy country by Altare and other little townes for the pace of three daies , we came at last to Sauona . Sauona ( anciently called Sabatia , or Sabatium ) is the second towne , or eldest daughter of Genua ; and like a good daughter indeed she stands alwayes in her mothers presence , yet keeps her distance : it being within sight of Genua , yet fiue and twenty mils off . It stands vpon the Mediterranean Sea , or , as they call it here , vpon the Riuiera di Genoa . It s fortified both by art and nature , thar is , by regular Fortifications towards the Sea , and by lusty Apennin hills towards the Land. Yet whiles Sauona feared no danger from either Sea , or Land , it was almost ruined in the yeare 1648. by fire from heauen , to wit , ligthning ; which falling vpō a great Tower , in the midst of the towne , where gunpowder was kept , blew it vp vpon a sudden , and with it , threw downe two hundred houses round about it , and houses of note . For passing that way six months after , and walking among the ruines , I saw in many of the houses , which were but half fallen downe , curious painted chambers and fine guilt roofes , which shewd me of what house many of these houses had been ; and of what weak defence guilt roofes and painted walls are against the artillery of heauen thunder and lightning . This towne is famous in history for the interview of two great kings here , to wit , Lewis the XII of France , and Ferdinand King of Naples . This interview passed with demonstrations of mutuall ciuilityes , not ordinary in interviews of Princes . For Lewis feared not to go into the Gallyes and ships of Ferdinand without gards and vnarmed : and Ferdinand remained for many dayes together in this towne belonging the● to Lewis , whom he had lately stipt of the kingdome of Naples , and beaten him to boot in a battle . Of this towne were Iulius Secundus , and Sixtus Quartus , two Popes of the house of Roueri : and two great Cardinals , Peter , and Raphael Riarii . Embarking at Sauona in a Feluca we rowed along the Shoare ( called la Riuiere di Genoa ) vnto Genua it self ; and all the way long we saw such a continual suburbs of stately Villas and Villages , that these scantlings made vs in loue which the whole peece it self , Genua . I confesse , I neuer sew a more stately abord to any Citty then to this : and if we had not had Genua full in our sight all the way long , we should haue taken some of these stately Villages for Genua it self ; and haue imitated Hostingus the leader of the Normans , who comeing into Italy about the yeare 860 with a great army , and finding Luna ( a towne in the confines of Genua ) so sumptuously built , thought really it had been Rome , and there vpon takeing it , he gloryed that he had sacked the mistresse of the world ; Gratatur tenere se Monarchiam totius Imperii , per vrbem quam putabat Roman● , sayth his Historian . Sayling thus along this pleasant coast , we came betimes to Genua . Genua is one of the chief townes that stand vpon the Mediterranea● Sea , and one of the best in Italy . The common Italian Prouerb , calls it , Genua la Superba : and if euer I saw a towne with its holy day clothes alwayes on , it was Genua . It stands upō the side of a hill , and riseing by degrees , appears to those that looke vpon it from the Sea , like an Amphitheater . Heretofore it was only fortified by marble bullworks , that is , great hills of marble which backt it vp : but some forty years ago , it was enuironed , with new-walls , carrying six miles in compasse , and yet finished in eighteen months . The Hauen heretofore was very vnsafe , and many ships which had tuggd through the most dangerous Seas abroad , were seen to sink here in the hauen at home ; the French then masters of Genua , not suffering her to shut vp her hauen , least she should shut them out . But since shee hath shaked off the French yoak , she hath loked vp her Treasures , and bolted the doore on the inside , by that admirable Mola which crossing almost quite ouer the baye , or , hauen , doth not onely bolt out all enemyes , but euen locks vp the boisterous Sea it self , and makes it tame in the hauen . It s a prodigious worke , and able to haue puzzeld any two Kings in Europe to haue done it . At one end of this Mola stands the Pharos vpon a little rock , with a Lantern vpon it , to giue notice , by knowne signes , what ships , how many , and from what side they Come : or els to guide their owne ships home safely in the night . At first it was onely a little Fort for to help to bridle Genua , and it was built by Lewis the XII of France . As for the towne it self of Genua , its most beautifull to behold : many of the houses being painted on the outside , and looking as if they were turned inside out , and had their Arras hangings hung on their outsides . The tops of their houses are made with open galleries , where the women sit together at worke in clusters , and where also they dry their haire in the Sun after they haue washed it in a certain wash a purpose for to make it Yellow , a colour much affected here by all women . The streets are very narrow : so that they vse here few coaches , but many Sedans and Litters . This makes the noyse in the streets lesse , and the expence in the purse smaller . But for want of ground and earth , they make heauen pay for it ; taking it out in the height of their houses what they want in bredth or length . So that Genua looked in my eye like a proad yong Lady in a straight bodyed flowered gowne , which makes her looke tall indeed and fine , but hinders her from being at her ease , and takeing breath freely . Yet I must except the Strada Noua here , which for a spirt , surpasseth all the streets I euer saw any where else for neatness and proportion ; and if it had but breath ynough to hold out at the same rate , a little longer , it would be the true Queen-street of Europe : Ordinary houses are so out of countenāce here , that they dare not appeare in this street where ther 's nothing but Pallaces , and Pallaces as fine as art , and cost ; or as Marble , and Painting can make them . Haueing sayd thus much of Genua in general , I will now come to the particulars that are to be seen in it . 1. The Domo , or great Church of S. Laurence presents it self to my sigth : It s the Cathedral of the Archbishop , who , when I passed that way last , was Cardinal Durazzo , a man of great Vertue and Piety . This Church is of a noble structure , all of black and white marble intermingled , and all massiue squair stones . In a Chappel ouer against the Pulpit , is kept reuerently an authentick Relick of S. Iohn Baptist , vnder the Altar ; and the great Dish of one Emmeraud , in which they say here that our Sauiour eat the Paschal Lambe with his disciples . Both these where giuen to the Genuesi by Balduin King of Hierusalem , for their great seruice done against the Turks in the Holy Land. Of the Relick of S. Iohn Baptist , Baronius , speaks credibly in his Ecclesiasticall History ▪ but for the dish of Emmeraud , I find no authority for it , either in Baronius or any ancient author , that our Sauiour vsed it . Especially seing Venerable Beda writes , that the Dish in which our Sauiour eat the Paschal Lambe was of syluer . 2 After the Domo , I saw the Church of the Annunciata , which draweth vp the Ladder after it for neatness . It s still in building , and not quite finished . It s thus beautifyed at the cost of two Brothers Rich Gentlemen and merchands of this towne who allow the third part of their gaynes to the adorning of this Church . The roof of it is all guilt , and set with curious pictures in Platfound . The Altars round about the Church , are cheeked with exquisit pillars , and adorned with rare pictures . The two rowes of Vast Pillars , which hold vp the roof of the Church , are so beautifull , being of a red and white marble , that they looke like Iasper , and rauish the beholder : They are curiously wrought and chanelled . 3. The Churh of S. Ambrosio , belonging to the Jesuits is neatly ouercrusted with marble and guilt aboue in the roof . It wants a little lenght , for want of roome to build on : it being too neare the Doges pallace , and not daring to aduance a step further for feare of treading vpon his heels . 4. The Church of the Theatins called S. Cyro , is very hansome , with its double row of white marble pillars , which set it out very gracefully . The Cloister also is very neat , and the Fathers very ciuil . 5. The Pallaces here are most sumptuous . Those of the Strada Noua are the best , and the best of those , is that of the Prince d'Oria : it s built vpon white round marble pillars , which support its Galleries , and those galleries let you into noble roomes adorned with all the Abellimenti of Italian Pallaces . The other Pallaces too , in this street , deserue particular mention in this my description of Genua , and may take it ill I say nothing of them ; but they must excuse my breuity , and impute the fault partly to themselues ; seeing admirable things are lyable to this inconuenience , that they are also vnexpressable . 6. I saw also the two Pallaces of the Signori Balbi , in the Street of the Annunciata . In the one whereof ( on the left hand ) I saw , among other rich things , a Looking Glasse valued at threescore thousād crowns . It s much of the size of those Looking glasses , which Seneca calls , specula toti corpori paria , that is , as bigge , and brickle , as those that looke themselues in them . The frame of it is all of syluer , set thick with a thousand little armed figures , like Cupids : as if the plain Mirrour of this Looking Glasse were the plain field where Cupid pitcheth his Tents , and begins his conquests ouer fair Ladyes . The round pillars set in the porch of this house , and the Giuochi d'acqua in the garden , will make themselues be taken notice of . 7. The Pallace of the Doge , or biennial Prince here , with the Seueral Chambers of Iustice , and the Armory in it for thirty thousand men aught to be carefully seen . In one of the great Halls of this Pallace , are seen twelue Statues of white marble , representing twelue famous men of this towne , who had rendered great seruice to the Common-wealth . In the foresayd Armory you see a halbard with two pistol barrels in the lower end of it . You see also the Armour of the Genuesian Amazones , who went to the warre in the Holy Land , and carryed themselues gallantly . Here 's also a cannon of Leather so light , that a man may carry it . 8. But that which is the most taking in Genua , is that which is out of Genua ; I meane , the stately Suburbs of San Pietro in Arena , where for a mile together , Villas adorned with marbles , painting , statues , Gardens , Arbours of Gelsomin , Orange , and Limon trees , grotts , ponds , Giuochi d'acqua , fountains , high wales , with shades borne vp by Marble Pillars &c. compose of many pallaces and gardens , such a beautifull Landskip , that the whole place seemed to mee , to be the charming Paradise of the King of the Mountains anciently ; and I was almost going to say , that we durst not blesse our selues , least this enchanted place should haue Vanished . The best Villas , or Pallaces here , are those of Hieronymo Negro , and that of the Imperiali : the first beautifyed with all the graces of Italian furniture , as also with Gardens , Walks , Ponds , Water works , Allees &c : the other , besides all these , hath an excellent Prospect : for the master of this house can see out of one window of it , twelue thousand crownes a yeare of his owne , onely in let houses . The other Pallaces here expect I should say something of them , and they deserue it well ; but realy to giue them their full due , I can onely say this of them , that they aught to be seen by the eye , not described by the pen. 9. As you returne from San Pietro in Arena to the towne not farre from the Gates , stands the Villa , or Pallace of the Duke d'Oria . I reserued this for the last , pour faire bonne bouche . It stands vpon the Seaside , and its garden towards the Sea is built vpon three rowes of white marble Rayls borne vp by white marble pillars , which ascending by degrees , is so beautifull to behold from the Sea , that strangers passing that way to Genua , take this garden for a second Paradise . In the midst of it stands the rare Fountain of Neptune , representing the true lookes of Braue Andrea D'Oria the Neptune of the Ligurian Sea , and the man who put his country out of Liuery , and taught it , not to serue . All along one side of this Garden , stands a Cage of Iron , about a hundred paces long ; and so high that it fetcheth in a world of laurel & other trees , clad with chirping birds of seueral sorts ; and to make the poore birds beleeue that they are rather in a wood , then in a prison , the very Cage hath put euen the wood it self in prison . Then entring into the Pallace , we found it most curiously adorned with rarityes , and riches , sutable to the countrys humour , and the masters purse . It s true , when this Queen of Spayne passed from Germany into Spayne , by the way of Milan and Genua , the Gouernour of Milan told her , that she should see in d'Orias pallace here , many fine things , but all borrowed of the townsmen . Which d'Oria hearing of before hand , caused to be written ouer the great Gates of the Pallace , where the Queen was to enter and lodge , these words in Spanish , By the grace of God , and the Kings fauour , ther 's nothing here borrowed . It may be , the cunning Gouernour of Milan thought by telling the Queen this , to oblige the Duke D'Oria to present some of his best things to the Queen , to shew her that they were his owne ; as it s sayd , the late Duke of Buckingham did in France , by breaking his dyamond hatband among the Court Ladyes , who sayd he had onely borrowed it ; but the wise Italian by this trick , both kept his owne , and yet satisfyed the Queen . Indeed he hath things here both too good to be giuen away , and too great to be carryed away : witness those rare Syluer tables which are in his Warderobe , one whereof weigheth twenty-four thousand pound weight . From the Pallace we were led ouer the street to his great garden vpon the hillside , where all the graces that can make vp a garden , are found . As for the Gouerment , fashions , Wealth , strength , and Interest of Genua , I found them to be thus . Their Gouerment , is Democratical , or Popular , by a Dog● ( chosen euery two years ) and eight Senators , who liue with him in the Pallace , and assist him with their counsell . The great Counsell here , which is the foundation of the Gouerment , consists of four hundred men chosen indifferently out of all the families of the towne . These deliberate with the Signoria of all things that belong to warre or peace . Anciently , as I hinted before , Genua was vnder the French domination , till Andrea D'Oria set it free . Histories write of it that Berengarius the third , and the Sarazins , so ruined Genua , that they left it swiming in its owne blood : Which ruine was forewarned by a prodigie of a fountain of blood which rann in the very streets of Genua . It had like to haue swmme a second time in its blood , when Lewis the XII of France entering into Genua victoriously with sword in hand , threatning the vtter ruine of that people ; was pacifyed by the mournfull cryes of four thousand little Children , who clad in sackcloth and placed in the great Piazza cryed out to the King in a piercing accent , Misericordia e Pieta , Mercy and Pitty . But since Genua shooke off the French Yoke it hath liued perpetually Gealous of the Frēch , especially since it discouered , some years past , diuers attempts of France against it , whiles the French had Portolongone and Piombino . For this reason , the Genuesi leane much to the Spanish Faction ; and Fashions following Faction , they leane also much to the Spanish Fashion both in humour and apparel . Hence I found here broad hats without hat-bands , broad leather girdles with steel buckles , narrow britches with long wasted doublets and hanging sleeues , to be à la mode , as well as in Madrid . And I found all the great Ladyes here to go like the Donnas of Spayne in Guardinfantas , that is , in horrible ouergrowne Vertigals of whale-bone , which being put about the waste of the Lady , and full as broad on both sides , as she can reach with her hands , beare out her coats in such a huffing manner , that she appears to be as broad as long . So that the men here with their little close britches , looked like tumblers that leap through the houps : and the women like those that danced anciently the Hobby-horse in country Mummings . Two of these Ladyes meeting one another in these narrow streets , make as great an Embarras , as two carts of hay do vpon London bridge : and I haue seen their Ladiships strangely puzzled , how to iuggle themselues into a narrow Sedan , or Littar : indeed half of my Lady hangs out . For my part I admire that this iealous Republick doth not feare , least some of these Ladyes ( vpon a disgust ) should carry a set of little short gunns vnder her coats , and vnder pretence of preferring a petition to the Senate assembled , giue them a broad side or two , and make a horrible confusion in the Republick . If all this bulk of clothes , which make the women here looke like haycocks with armes and heads , be allowed them by their wise husbands , to render them more visible , and lesse able to go priuately into any suspected houses , its good policy : otherwise , most certain it is , that the wifes gownes cheat horribly the Husbands britches , of almost all the stuff . I haue onely heard ( and it was from a Nobleman of Genua ) of one Lady here that made right vse of these Guardinfantas ; and it was shee , who seeing her onely sonn ( a yong nobleman of Genua about eighteen years old ) already condemned to prison , and ready to be condemned to the scaffold for a heynous crime , got leaue to visit him in prison as often as she pleased ; and at last , by meanes of a good Guardinfanta of steele , instead of whale-bone , she tooke vp her sonn vnder her coats in that Guardinfanta , and marching out of the prison grauely , as she vsed to do , by leaning vpon two ancient women , as the Fashion is here for great Ladyes to do , she carryed him home so ; and being there deliuered of him a second time , without a midwife , she sent him presently out of the country to be nursed and kept . Thus she saued her families honour . Was not this a true Guardinfanta , which preserued thus the life of a child ? But was not this also a gallant mother that went with a child who was full eighteen years old when his mother bore him ? The onely pitty was , that this gallant mother had not the happiness once to be mother of a gallant sonn , seeing she had had the trouble of bringing forth such a sonn twice . As for their Riches , I am told they passe not a million and two hundred thousand crownes a yeare . Indeed the King of Spayne Philip the II aboue a hundred years ago , borrowed of this Republick the summ of eleuen millions , and keeps them still in his hands , to keep this Republick in awe ; yet paying the interest duly vnto them . So that the Common purse here is nothing so rich as that of Venice , though the particular men here are farre richer then those of Venice . They haue great trading both with France and Spayne , and are great Banquiers makeing the Chāge , in all the bancks of Europe go as they please . Besides , they vtter a world of Taffetas , Veluets , Sattins , Points of needle worke and diuers other things of Value . As for their Strength , it s enough to defend themselues , scarce enough to offend others . For Genua is backd vp by the Apennins , where all passages are easily made good against inuaders ; and it is so well fortifyed on the other side by the Sea it self , twelue or fourteen good Gallyes , twenty ships of warre , and its incomparable Molo , that they could scuffle notably in their owne defence . Besides , Genua is fortifyed not onely with its Hills and Sea , but also with its new walls and bull-works of stone ; nay , and with its Bonewalls too , that is , with a Lacedemonian wall of a world of inhabitants , and with the Illustrious Families of d'Oria , Spinola , Grimaldi Sauli , Durazzi , Catanei , and others , whose seueral names would go almost for seueral armyes . Yet for a need , they can rayse thirty thousand men , and arme them well out of their Arsenal . I confesse heretofore they were strong enough to offend others ; For they made warre against the Pisani , and worsted them : They set also vpon the Iland of Corsica , distant from Genua about a hundred miles , and tooke it . This Iland gaue the Republike of Genua more honour then profit : for it being once a Kingdome , giues still to Genua the title of Serenissima , and a Close Regal Crowne ouer its Coat of Armes . In fine , the Genuesi were strong enough heretofore , to lend great succours to Godfrey of Bullen in his holy conquest of Hierusalem . Hence vpon the very Arca of the Holy Sepulcher in Hierusalem , are written these words : Praepotens Genuensium praesidium . As for their Interest , it seemed to mee to be farre more Spanish , then French , by reason of the great profit they draw from Spayne , which corresponds with the rich State of Milan in men and monyes , by meanes of the Gennesi : yet they are well with all Christian Princes , except with the Duke of Sauoye who pretends to Sauona . As for the Learned men of this towne , I find them not to be so many . The rich Banquier is more esteemed here , then the learned Diuine . Yet I finde here also some famous for learning , to wit , Baptista Fregosus , or , Fulgosus , who for his singular parts being chosen Doge of Genua , and by his owne disloyal kinred chased from Gouerment and country , comforted himself in his studdyes ; and haueing obserued many particular things in history , he reduced them to heads , and left vs a iust volume of Memorable sayings and Deeds of the ancients : for which work he is stiled by Alberto Leandro , the Valerius Maximus of Italy . He wrote in Italian , and dedicated his booke to his Sonn . The other learned men of this towne are Iustinianus , Balus , Mascardi , and Christopher Columbus . Genua also hath giuen to the Church three Popes , Adrian the V. Innocent the IV , and Innocent the VIII . Here is an Academy of Wits called the Adormentati ; which together with the other Academyes of the like nature in all the townes of Italy , I would wish my Traueller to visit particularly , that he may see how farr the Jtalians excell vs in passing their time well , and how it s much better to spend the week in making of Orations and Verses , then in drinking of Ale and smoaking of Tobacco . He that desires to know more of Genua , let him read Augustinus Iustinianus of the History of Geuua . Hauing spent six dayes in Genua we agreed with an honest Vetturino to conduct vs to Milan which is about four little dayes iourney from hence . In another voyage I went from Genua to Turin by Monferat and saw in my way Noui ( of which by and by ) Trino , Cassale one of the strongest places of Italy ; hauing a strong Cittadelle , a strong Casile , strong towne-walls and ditches ; and Alexandria della paglia a strong towne standing vpon the Po. But now at this time , leaving Genua , and intending for Milan , we rid through San Pietro d'Arena , by the Carthusians Monastery , ouer the Apenniu Hills , and in a day and a half , came to Noui. Noui is a little strong towne belonging to the Genuesi , and Frontier to the Milanesi . It s some twelue miles distant from Tortona the first frontier towne of the State of Milan : and because these Frontiers were then pestered with Bandits , a noble man of Genua , who was in our company , beggd of the Gouernour of Noui , a Couuoy for himself and vs to secure vs to Tortona : The Gouernour presently granted vs a Conuoye of eight or ten horsemen : but those very men he gaue vs for our Conuoye , were Bandits themselues , who being banished from the State and towne of Genua for their misdemenours , had two months a yeare allowed them to come freely into frontier townes , and negotiate with the State. These men were thought by the Gouernour to be our safest gards in danger , who were the onely men that caused danger . Hauing been thus conuoyed safely by out honest rogues past all danger , we payed them some three Pistoles ; and feard no more danger , till we should meet with such seruants as these another time . I confesse , it seemed at first à fearfull thing , to see our selues in the hands of those , who had their hands often in blood : yet there is such a charme in a Gouernours parole , that we thought our selues as well armed with it , as if we had been shot-free , and had had all the Spells of Lapland about vs. We had no sooner parted from these our guards , but passing ouer a little riuer on horsback , we entred into the Milanese , land came at night to Tortona a strong frontier towne of the Milanese , where Charles the VIII of France , in his returne from the conquest of Naples , beat the Venitians and the Milanesi in a battle . From Tortana we went the next day to Pauia , the second towne of the state of Milan , and once the Seat of twelue Kings of the Longobards . It stands vpon the riuer Ticinum , and hence it s also called in Latin Ticinum . Here 's an Vniuersity , either founded or furnished at first , with readers , or by readers of the Vniuersity of Oxeford . The Cheif Colledges are , that of Pius Quintus , and that of S. Charles Boromaeus . The other remarkable things here , are . 1 The Domo , in which lyeth buryed the body of a holy Bishop of this towne , called Sauli , who was contemporary to S. Charles Borromaeus and of the same Pastoral spirit and zeale . Neare the great doore of this Church ( on the inside ) they show you a little mast of a boate which they make ignorant people beleeue ( for sport ) to haue been the Lance of Orlando Furioso . 2 Neare the Domo , in the Piazza , stands A Brazen statue , which some affirme to be the Statue of Constantin the Great ; others , more probably , of Antoninus Pius . It was brought from Rauenna hither by victory ; and it had like to haue been carryed back againe to Rauenna by Victory . For Lotrech the French general in the takeing of this towne haueing granted this Statue to a soldier of Rauenna ( who serued vnder him , and who haueing mounted the breach first , asked nothing for his recompence , but that statue taken anciently from his natiue towne ) Yet afterwards moued with the generosity of the townsmen ( who hauing left all things else with some patience , to the prey of the soldiers , burst into tears when they heard that this statue was to be taken from them ) Lotrech changed his gift to the soldier , & left the Citizens of Pauia their deare Statue . 3. I saw the Augustins Church , where the body of that great Father of the Church S. Augustin lyeth buryed . It was translated hither out of Sardinia by Luitprandus King of the Longobards ; an arme of which S. Augustin a King of England redeemed at a great rate , and yet cheap too , if it where his writeing arme , wherewith he wrote such admirable bookes . The new Tombe in the Sacristy is all of white marble most exquisitly carued with historical statues representing the most remarkable actions of that Doctor . 4 In the same Church we were showne the Tombe of Seuerinus Boëtius author of that great little booke de Consolatione Philosophica which he wrote in his exile , to comfort himself . He was a Consul of Rome for dignity , an other S. Denys for learning & loosing his head ; and held a Martyr by many . 5 In the Cloister of this Conuent of the Augustins , lye buryed two Englishmen of note , the Duke of suffolke , and an English Bishop called Parker of the house of Morley , I read their seueral Epitaphs vpon the wall of this Cloister neare the little doore that goes from hence into the Church , but haue forgot them since . 6 The Chappel where the Bones of the Frenchmen killed in the Battle of Pauia are kept and showne to strangers . 7 In the Franciscans Church here , lyes buryed Baldus the famous Iurisconsult . 8 The long wodden Bridge couered ouer head with a perpetuall penthouse , to deffend men as well from the Sun , as from the rayne . Of this towne were Ennodius Ticinensis , and Lanfrancus Archbishop of Canterbury , who wrot so learnedly against Berengarius for the Reall Presence . He that desires to know the particular history of Pauia , let him read Antonio Spelta , and Sacco . From Pauia we went to Milan same twenty miles off ; and in the way , saw the famous Monastery of the Carthusians , neare vnto which , vpon S. Mathias his day ( a day fauorable to Charles the V , seeing he was borne on that day ; crowned Emperour on that day ; and got this Victory on that day ) was fought that memorable battle between the sayd Emperours forces , and the French King , an . 1525. where Francis the I. of France was taken prisoner , haueing lost the day , not for want of courage , but conduct : for he had a little before , sent away halfe of his army to the conquest of Naples ; by which he so weakened the rest of his army here , that he both lost the day , and did nothing against the kingdome of Naples ; A great fault , obserued by one that was present there , to wit , Monsieur Monluc . Francis being thus taken prisoner was presently conducted to the Carthusians Monastery , which was hard by . Entering into the Church , and finding the Monks singing in the third houre this verse of the Psalme , Coagulatum est sicut lac cor eorum , egovero legem tuam meditatus sum , he struck up with them at the next verse , and sung aloud with a piety as great , as his losse , or courage , Bonum mihi quia humiliasti me , vt discam iustificationes tuas : that is , it s well for mee , that thou hast humbled me , that I may learne thy iustifications . After he had heard Masse here , he was carryed to dinner in the Monastery , and was serued by three Generals of the Spanish Army , Launoy , Bourbon , and the Marquis of Vasti : the one holding the basin , the second powring water vpon his hands ; and the third presenting him the Towel . Some say he refused to bee serued by Bourbon , looking vpon him as a revolted Trayter , rather then as an ennemy : indeed the braue Frënch Knight Bayard ( surnamed , the Cheualier sans peur who died in this battle , ) being found expireing in the feild , by Bourbon , who sayd to him , Poore Bayard ! I pitty thee ; answered him with all the courage and life that was left him ; No , Traytor , J am not to be pittyed , who dye nobly seruing my King and country : but thou rather art to be pittied , who liuest à Traytor to thy king and country . As for the King he was led prisoner into Spayne , where he was kept at Madrid till he payed his ransom . Hence the Spaniards brag , that they had once a French king prisoner , and the French had neuer any King of Spayne prisoner : but the French answer , that their King had not been prisoner had he fought as the Kings of Spayne do of late , that is , by Proxie , and not in person . Howeuer this Francis the first deserued better fortune , being A Prince of great courage and honour , and a great louer of his souldiers . For not long before , he had beaten the Swissers in the battle of San Donato , where his souldiers fought for him with singular courage and zeale . And hee had deserued it all : For he was so good to his souldiers in that expedition , that he would ride vp and downe the campe in the night , to visit the wounded souldiers , and help them to all necessaries ; commanding euen His owne sheets to be cut in peeces to binde vp their wound● . As for the Monastery it self of the Charthusians , it s one of the most stately Monasteries of Jtaly , and I beleeue , the second of that Order . The great Cloister is all couered with lead . The Church is one of the hansomest of Italy , though built a la Tedesca . The Frontispice of it is adorned with a world of heads and figures of white marble . The Chappels within are richly adorned and painted . The Tabernacle is worth fourscore thousand crownes . The tombe of their founder , Iohn Galeazzo Visconti Duke of Milan , which stands a little without the Quire , with the cumbent statues of Ludouico Moro the last Duke of Milan and his wife , lyeing vnder the other , is a stately Monument . In the Sacristy we were showne many fine Relicks , much rich Church-plate , and a curious back of an Altar of Yuory cut into histories after a rare māner . Passing from hence we came to Milan . This towne is surnamed the Great ; and rightly , seing it carryes full ten miles in compasse within the walls . It hath ten gates to it ; two hundred Churches within it , and three hundred thousand souls dwelling in it . Hence it was anciently called Altera Roma a second Rome , both because of its greatness , and because of its other titles , which made it looke like Rome . It s the Head of the best Dutchy in Europe , which is a hundred miles long from North to South , and containeth four hundred townes in it . It s called Milan quasi Midland , being a pure Mediterranean Towne , and hauing ( which is a wonder ) not so much as a riuer of its owne running by it ; but is onely serued by two Channels cut out of the Ticine and the Adder . This towne hath heretofore suffered much by warre ; great townes being the fairest Markes to shoot at , and Milan hath been forty times shot at by Sieges , and twenty times Hit and taken , haueing had the misfortune to haue been vnder diuers factions and Rulers : as the Emperours , the Turriani , the Visconti , the Sforze , the French , and the Spaniards , who now keep it , mercè al Castello , which staueth of all tempts of strangers . France pretends to this Dutchy as heire of Valentia Visconty , who was marryed to Lewis Duke of Orleans , whose house was excluded from this Dutchy by Francis Sforza , who possessed himself of this State. As for the things which I saw in Milan , they are these . 1. The store of Gentry and Nobility here , which I perceiued to be very numerous , because of a hundred coaches ( no hackneys ) which I saw standing before a Church vpon a priuate Festiual day of that Church . 2. Great store of Artisans , as Goldsmiths , Armourers , Gunsmiths Weauers , silk stocking makers , Refiners of Gold , those that worke in Crystal , and a world of others : which giue occasion to the Prouerb , which sayth , that hee that would improue all Italy , must destroy Milan first : for if Milan were destroyed , the many artizans that are there , would spread ouer all Italy , and furnish the other townes , which want artizans . 3. The Churches here , and first that of S. Ambrose , where that glorious Father of the Church refused stoutly to Theodosius the Emperour , entrance vnto that Church , because of his passionate commanding the Massacre at Thessalonia , where seauen thousand men were murdered for the fault of a few . Vnder the high Altar of this Church lyeth the body of S. Ambrose ; as also the bodyes of S. Geruasius and Protasius , two primitiue Saints , whose bodyes were found whiles S. Austin liued at Milan , and who also relates a famous and knowne miracle to haue been wrought by God , at the Translation of those holy Martyrs bodyes into this Church . In this Church also is seen vpon a high Pillar of a round forme , a Brazen Serpent , like that erected by Moyses in the Desert and commanded by God himself to be made . I imagin it was set vp here for the same end , for which it was commanded by God to be set vp mystically in the desert , that is , to put men in mind of our Sauiours exaltation vpon the Crosse for mankind , the frequent memory of which is a Souerain antidote against the stings of the infernal serpent the Diuel . 4. Neare vnto the foresayd Church of S. Ambrose , stands the little Chappel , where S. Augustin with his little Adeodatus and his freind Alippius was baptized , as the words ouer the Altar testify ; and from this little Chappel S. Ambrose and S. Augustin ( now a Christian ) going processionaly to the Great Church , made the Hymne Te Deum , as they went ; one makeing one Verse , the other another . 5. The other little Chappel on the other side of S. Ambrose his Church , is built vpon the place where S. Augustin was first conuerted by a voyce which sayd to him , Tolle lege : Tolle lege : meaning S. Paul Epistles : which he doing , pitched iust vpon those words to the Romans , Non in cubilibus & impudicitiis , sed induimini Iesum Christum &c. And so of an impure Manichean , hee became a chast Christian . 6. I saw adioyning to this Church of S. Ambrose the Stately Monastery , with two curious Cloisters built vpon round pillars . This Monastery , as well as S. Ambrose his Church , belongs to the Cistertian Monks . 7. Then I saw the Church of S. Victor belonging to the Oliuetan Fathers ; with the admirable picture of S. George killing the Dragon , of the hand of Raphael Vrbin . This is a neat Church when it is adorned in its best hangings , as it was when I saw it . The double Cloisters here of the Monastery built vpon round pillars ought to be seen . 8. In the Church of S. Nazarius are to be seen the Tombes of the Triuultii : stately Monuments . 9. In the Church of S. Eustorgius I saw the Arca , or old Tombe , in which reposed the bodyes of the three Magi who came to adore our Sauiour in Bethleem , whose bodyes were translated from hence to Colen in Germany , where I haue seen them , by reason of the Destruction of Milan . 10. I saw also the Church of S. Laurence , built like that of Sanctae Sophia in Constantinople . Here lyes buryed Placidia the Sister of Honorius the Emperour . 11. There are diuers other Churches here , all worth particular visiting , by reason of some rare thing in them : as in that of S. Mark , the rare peece of Simon Magus his fall from the skyes . In that of the Passion the rare picture of the last Supper , by Christophoro Cibo . In that of S. Celso , a rare picture of Raphaels hand in the Sacristy . The Theatins , and the Iesuits Churches are very neat . 12. But the best of all the Churches of Milan is the new Domo , in the midst of which lyeth buryed the new S. Ambrose of Milan ; I meane S. Charles Borromaeus , an other S. Ambrose in Pastoral dignity , zeale , and sanctity . This Church I take to be the second in Italy for solid worke ; being built all of white marble , with Iles and Pillars , Each Pillar worth ten thousand crownes , & there are a hundred and threescore such Pillars in all , of massiue white marble ; not candied and frozen ouer with a thin crust of marble , as most of the other fine Churches of Italy are . There are also six hundred white marble statues set round about the outside of this Church , each of them cost a thousand crownes . That of S. Bartholomeus with his skin vpon his arme ; and that of Adam , are two peeces much admired , and are of the hand of Christophero Cibo . The Frontispice is not yet finished : but if that be the true designe of it , which I haue seen in pictures , in the Capucins Cloister in Rome , it will be most stately . The Church it self is sayd to be 250 cubits long . Neare the Quire , and almost in the middle of the Church , lyeth the body S. Charles Borromaeus in a low vault , turned now into a Chappel , open at the top with low rayles round about it ; The inside of this Chappel is hung with hangings of cloth of gold , ouer which runns a cornish of syluer plat nayled to the wall . Vpon the Altar , lyeth the body of S. Charles at length in a fair Crystal coffin made of seueral great squars of cristal , through which ( the wodden Caze being opened by special leaue from the Archbishop ) we saw his body lyeing all a long in his Episcopal robes . His face , hands , and feet , are onely seen , and his nose and lipps are shrunck and parched . The true picture of this Saint Hangs at the entrance below into this Chappel ▪ and his history and wonderfull actions are hung vp in painting round about the Church on high . Ouer the high Altar , in the Very roof of the Church , is kept one of the Nailes of the Crosse of our Sauiour , giuen anciently to the Milanesi by the Emperour Theodosius . There burne alwayes before it a number of little Lampes , set in crosse wise , and drawne vp thither with a pully , to shew the people where that holy Relick is . In fine The Steeple of this Church is not to be Forgotten . It s not quite finished yet , but its high enough to tyre any man , and to shew him from the top of it , the whole towne of Milan , the whole compasse and circumference of the rare Castle ; and the whole country round about for Twenty miles on euery side : a sight to pleasant , that I would wish my Traueler , not onely to mount vp to the top of this Steeple , but ( for this Steeples sake ) to make it his constant practise ( as I did ) to mount vp the chief Steeple of all great townes . 13. The great Hospital built in a quadrangle vpon arches and round pillars is a most magnificent thing . Really if sickness where not a little vnwholesome and troublesome , a man would almost wish to be a little sick here , where a King , though in health , might lodge hansomely . The place where the sick people are kept , is built crossewise , and in the middle of that crosse , stands an open Altar where all the sick people from their seueral quarters and from their very beds , may heare the Diuine seruice at once . Four thousand men are entertained dayly in this Hospital , and therefore it hath great reuenews . S. Charles was a great benefactor to it , and gaue away to it , and other pious vses , in half an hour , fiue and twenty thousand crownes of inheritance , which were fallen to him ( being a man of eminent birth ) half an houre before . Indeed he had no other wife then his Church , nor other children then the poore . 14. The stately Seminary ; and the Colledge for the Swissers , are noble buildings , and the Eternal workes of the foresayd . S. Charles . 15. The Lazzaretto is a Vast building , carrying in compasse a thousand and eight hundred yards . It stands neare the towne walls , yet out of the towne , and it is to receiue into it Those that are sick of the plague . There are as many chambers in it , as there are dayes in the yeare . In the middle of the squar of this vast court , or quadrangle , stands a round Chappel , couered at the top , but open on all sides in such a manner , as that all the people from their seueral chambers and beds , may behold the Priest saying diuine seruice , and joyne their deuotions to his . I haue read in the life of S. Charles Borromaeus , that in a plague time , he visited those that were infected , and ministred the holy Sacraments to them himself in person ; and went in a solemne Procession in the head of the Clergy , with a rope about his neck , and barefoot vpon the stones , to moue stony hearts to repentance , and to appease the wrath of God angry with his people . 16. The Biblotheca Ambrosiana is one of the best Libraries in Italy , because it is not so coy as the others , which scarce let themselues be seen ; wheras this opens its dores publikly to all comers and goers , and suffers Them to read what book they please . It was begun to be builded by S. Charles , and continued by his Nephew Cardinal Federico Borromaeo : but it was much augmented since by the accession of Vincentius Pinellis books , which after his death , being shipped by his heirs for Naples , and taken by the Turks , were many of them throwne ouer board by those analphabet Rogues , who looked for other merchandize then books . Yet many of them were recouered againe for money , and set vp here . Ouer the heads of the highest shelues , are set up the pictures of learned men , a thing of more cost , then profit ; seing with that cost many more books might haue been bought , and learned men are best ●een in their books and writings . Loquere , vt te videam . 17. Behind the Library stands the Gallery of pictures , where I saw many choyce Originals of prime masters , and some exquisit Coppies , as those four peeces of the four Elements , which certainly are coppied after those that I described aboue in the house of the Dutchesse of Sauoy neare Turin , called la Valentine . But the rarest peece of all , either in the Library , or here , is the rare Manuscript kept here , of Alberto Dureo . Three hundred pounds haue been refused for it . 18. The Dominicans Library is very considerable too . But you must not omit to see the Refectory here , where you shall finde an admirable picture of the last supper , made by Rare Laurentius Vincius . The painted Cloister here deserues a visit too . 19. The Monastery also called the Gratie , is one of the best in Europe , in whose Church is a rare picture of Christ crowned with thorns of the hand of Titian . 20. The famous Gallery and curiosities of Canonico Setali , farr better then that of Monsieur Seruier in Lyons , of which aboue . And here I wish my pen were as ingenious to describe all the rare things of this Gallery , as the noble Canon setali hath been in gathering them , and courteous in shewing them : some of these curious things I yet remember , for my Readers sake ; as a great variety of burning glasses , and yet not Conuexe , as ours ordinarily are ; one of them set fire presently to a peece of board an inch thick that was brought forth . 2. A Mandragora . 3. a bird without feet called by Aristotle Apodes . 4. a stone out of which is drawne a thread , which being spun and wouen , makes a stuff like linnen indeed , but of an incombustible nature : The stone is called Asbestos , and the stuff Amyanthus , which being fowle and soyled , is not be made cleane by washing in water , but by throwing into the fire . Baltazar Bonifacius in his Historia Ludicra tells of many who had such stuff . 5. a world of rare Meddals of the old Consuls and Emperours in syluer , gold , and brasse , makeing diuers series . 6. a world of woodden things , as also fruits , and fungi , all petrifyed and turned into stone ; and yet no metamorphosis neither , the things retaining their pristin formes . 7. Diuers curious clocks , whereof one shews the time of the day ( strang ) euen in the night by a quadran . 8. The little round Cabinet flat aboue , like a childs drum , with a smooth glasse : The master setting little ships , coaches , &c. vpon the glasse , they wheele and moue vp and downe as it were of themselues : when all is done by a sympathetical vertue and by the masters turning secretly a little wheele where there is fastened some loadstone , and the little ships and coaches hauing also some peece of iron in their bottoms which touch the glasse ; and so the iron running after the loadstone moued by the wheele , makes these shipps and coaches seem to moue of themselues . 9. A peece of a thunderbolt , which the Canon himself sayd he had cut out of a mans thigh strucken with it . 10. Diuers peeces of Coral iust as it growes in the Sea. 11. A little Pillar two handfull high of marble , so carcked , that it gapeth wide on one side with the crack , and yet holdeth together fast on the other side , as a great stick of green wood doth , when it is bent so farre on one side as to gape , and yet sticks together on the other . 12. A world of rich iewels , strange stones , cameos , pictures , crystals , little infants in waxe in glasse cases , and many other exotick rarityes , which are better seen then described . 21. Some Pallaces here : as that of the Gouernours , rather vast then curiours ; and fitter to lodge Regiments of Gards in , them Viceroys . The Pallace of Marini is of a noble structure . That of the Archbishop is very hansome . I saw also the Pallace of the Borromaei painted within at the entrace , with the Motto of S. Charles ( who was of this family ) HVMILITAS . It s related in the life of this Holy Prelate that in twenty years space that he was Archbishop and Cardinal here , he went but twice to visit his owne neare Relations in this Pallace , and descended but twice into his owne garden in his Archiepiscopal Pallace : so much worke found he it to play the part of an Archbishop well . The Pallaces also of the Visconti of the Sfortii , of the Triuultii , and many others , deserue to be seen exactly . 22. The Castle , or Citadelle , one of the best in Europe , in the opinion of the Duke of Rohan a competent jugde . It stands within and without the towne , that is , at the back of the towne , like a rod tyed at the childs back , to keep him in awe . It s garded by a garrison of fiue hundred natural Spaniars with a special Gouernour of its owne , independent of the Gouernour of Milan . It lookes more like a towne , then a Castle ; being a mile and a halfe about , and furnished withall conueniences a soldier can require . The large streets in it ; the stately houses and Pallaces for the chief commanders ; the neat piazzas ; the number of well furnished shops in all kindes , euen goldsmiths too ; the fiue fountaines , or Wells , not to be dryed vp ; the Mill ; the Hospital ; the Church ; with eight or ten Chaplains in it , and a Curate ; the faire place of armes capable of six thousand men ; two hundred great peeces of Cannon vpon the walls ; the six Royal bastions , the regular fortifications or outworks ; the vnderground way from one bastion to an other ; the infinit heaps of Cannon bullets , some whereof weigh 800 pound weight ; the three large and deep ditches round about the Castle ; the stately entrance gate , and two strong towers , make this Castle one of the most Caualier curiositys a man can see in Italy . They shewed me here the Cannon which killed Mareshal Crequy before Breme , and for that seruice its allowed to rest here for euer . 23. The shops of Crystals , where you haue a world of curiositys in crystal : as watch cases , twizercases , little boxes , pictures cut in crystal , crosses and beads of crystal &c. The shops also of silkstockings which are hugely esteemed in Italy because they are twice as strong as ours , and very massiue . The shops , in fine , of embroderers , whose embroderie in gold and syluer is the best in the world , and the cheapest . 24. Here is an Academy of wits , called the Nascosti , or Hidden men . But Why Hidden ? seing Wit , like the Sun , should shine publickly , and not bury it self ; except it be to shew vs , that as the Sun neuer shins brighter , then after he hath been hidden in a Cloud : so wit neuer shins more , then after it hath been hidden in Study . Hence was that saying of a graue Philosopher , Absconde vitam ; that is , lye hidden a while , at the dug of the booke . Indeed Demosthenes caused his hair to be shaued off , that by that deformity he might be ashamed to go abroad , and so bee obliged to study at home . As for this Academy , it helps much to animate with wit this great towne , which otherwise would looke like Polyphemus ( hauing lost his eye ) great , but blinde . Tumor , non est magnitudo . 25. The most famous men of this towne for learning , haue been these : Valerius Maximus for history : Alciatus , Decius , and Iason for Law : Cardan for Philosophy : Panigarola , and Paulus Aresius , for Sermons : Bonacina for Canon Law ; and Octauius Ferrarius ( whom I knew lately in Padua ) for belle lettere . 26. Two other men here are famous for other things ; to wit Vberto Crucio , and Gulielmo Pus●erula ; the first so strong , that he could stop a horse in his full gallop with one hand ; lift vp vpon his back a horse loaden with corne ; and stand so stifly vpon his leggs , that no man , though running against him with all his force , could push him out of his place or posture . The other without any learning at all , except his first Grammar Rudiments , could with his natural wit onely , decide law cases , and make such good orders , that the best Lawyers could not finde what to adde to them , or what to diminish from them . It s pitty these two men had not been melted into one , to haue made one excellent man , by their clubbing wit and force together , and their mingling of Sana mens , with Corpore sano . The Reuenues that Spayne dawes from Milan yearly , are two millions and four hundred thousand crownes : besides the thirds , to which they are obliged in time of warre . This state for a need , can rayse fifty thousand men . He that desires to know the History of Milan , let him read Corio of the history of Milan : Ripamontius , Scipio Barbono , of the liues of the Duks of Milan ; and Paolo Morigi . Hauing this seen Milan in six dayes time , we tooke horse for Bologna , six dayes journey from hence , and passed through Marignano , Lodi , Piacenza , Parma , Regio , Modena , Fort Vrbano , and so to Bologna ; of each I will say something . Marignano is a little towne about ten miles distant from Milan , and from thence to Lodi the way is most pleasant , and leuel as an alley . Neare to this towne Francis the first of France fought with the Swissers a famous battle , and killed 16000 of them ; and tooke Ludouicus Sforza the Duke of Milan , who thought to haue escaped in Swissers clothes , but was discouered . Lodi is a good iust towne , and frontier vpon the Venitians , the riuer Adda runs vnder its walls . It s called Lodi either because it s built vpon the ruines , or neare to old Lodi , which was called Laus Pompeia , because Pompey had restored it . This towne is famous for excellent neats tongues , and cheeses as big as mils●ones . A gentleman of this towne , caused four cheeses to be made each one weighing 500 pound weight . The people here mow their Hay three times a yeare ; and I am affrayd they are powled as often with taxes . Piacenza , or Pleasance , deserues its name , by reason of its sweet situation in a rich country neare the Po and Trebia , two great riuers . Neare the last of which Hannibal ouercame Sempronius the Roman Consull . The country round about this towne , is very rich in pasturage : Hence their excellent cheeses and rare creame . It aboundeth also in Saltpits which afford no small profit . This towne belongs to the Duke of Parma . The best things to be seen here are , the Equestris statua of the second Alexander the Great , or the first Alexander of Parma . It s in brasse in the market place . The old Fountain made by Augustus Caesar . The rare picture of Raphaels hand , in the Benedictius Church behind the high Altar . The Churches of the Dominicans , and the Canon Regulars are no contemptible ones . I obserued in this towne , a notable peece of thriftiness vsed by the Gentlewomen ; who make no scruple , to be caried to their country bouses neare the towne , in coaches drawne by two Cowes yoaked together : These will carry the Signora a pretty round trot vnto her Villa , Ther afford her also a dish of their milk , and after collation , bring her home againe at night without spending a penny . He that desires to know more of Piacenza , let him read Vmberto Loccati , Of Piacenza where , Cornelius Musso Bishop of Bitonti a great Preacher and a Trent Father ; as also Ferrante Pallauicini . Parma belongs also to the Duke of Parma , of the house of Farnese . This Dutchy was giuen to Pier Luigi Farnese by Paulus III , vpon condition it should hold of the Pope , and pay him yearly ten thowsand crownes . It s worth to the Duke two hundred thousand crownes . This towne of Parma is three miles in compasse , hath the riuer Parma running through it , ouer which is built a hāsome stone bridge . The country round about the towne is most fertill , and begets such credit to the Cheeses , that Parmesan Cheeses are famous ouer all the world . The Chief things so be seen in Parma , are these . The Dukes Pallace , with the gardens , fountains , wildbeasts , the admirable Theater to exhibite Operas in . The exquisite Coaches of the Duke ; one whereof is all of beaten syluer , with the Seats and crutains embrodered with gold and syluer ; an other so well guilt and adorned , that it s almost as rich as the former ▪ lastly the stables where I saw horses sutable both in strenght and beauty to the foresayd● coaches . Then I went to the Domo , whose Cupola was painted by the rare hand of Corregio . Lastly to The Capucins , in whose Church lyes buryed my noble Heros , Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma , whom I cannot meet in this my voyage without a compliment . He was the Third Duke of Parma , but the Tenth worthy . Indeed his leaping the first man into the Turks Galleys in the battle of Lepantho , with Sword in hand , and in the eighteenth yeare onely of his age , was such a prognostik of his future worth ; his reduceing Flanders againe , with the prodigious actions done by him at the takeing of Antweep , was such a makeing good of the prognostick ; and his comeing into France in his slippers and Sedan to succour Rouen beseiged by Henry the IV , was such a crowning of all his other actions , that his history begets beleefe to Quintus Curtius , and makes men beleeue , that Alexanders can do any thing . The Reuenues of this Prince are sayd to be six hundred thousand crownes a yeare . Hee is now of the French faction ; and in all his territories hee can rayse 28000 men . Here is an Academy of wits called the Innominati , as they that had rather be wise , then be talked of , or famed for such . This towne hath furnished Italy with two excellent Painters , Corregio , and Parmigiano . He that would know the particular history of Parma , let him read Bonauentura Arrighi . From Parma we went to Regio a towne belonging to the Duke of Modena ▪ here is a neat Cathedral Church , of which Church S. Prosper was Bishop . Of this towne were these three learned men , Guido Pancirola , Cardinal Tosco , and snarling Casteluetro . Modena is the towne where the Duke keeps his Court. It s a hansome towne , and by its high steeple shews it self to trauelers long before they come to it . It hath also a strong Cittadel , which lyeing flat and euen with the towne , showeth the towne that indeed it can be euen with it , whensoeuer in shall rebell . The Pallace of the Duke hath some rooms in it as neat , and ri●h , as any I saw in Jtaly ; witness those Chambers hung round with the pictures of those of his family , and wainscotted with great Looking Glasses and rich guilding . This Duke is of the Family of Estè , but not of the true line . Wherfore , for want of lawfull heirs male , Ferrara and Commachio fell to the Church , in Clement the VIII time , and remain there euer since . Of the true house of Estè , was the braue Countesse Matilda , the dry-Nurse , as I may say , of the Roman Church . For it was she defended Gregory the VII , against the Emperour Henry the VI , and brought him to aknowlegde his fault , and cry the Pope mercy . It was she also that by Will and Testament left the Pope , Parma , Regio , Mantua , and Ferrara . Hence Vrban the VIII , out of gratitude to this Princesse caused her Statue and Tombe to be set vp S. Peters Church in Rome . The will and Testament of this Princesse , are kept in Lucca to his day . Hard by Modena was fought the famous battle , where Hirtius and Pansa being Consuls , the Senate lost in them its authority . Of Modena were these famous men in learning , Cardinal Sadoletus , Carolus Sigonius , and Gabriel Falopius . In Modena are made the best visards for mascarads ; and it s no small profit which they draw from this foolish commodity , seing stultorum plena sunt omnia . The Reuenues of this Duke are three hundred thousand crownes a yeare ; and he is now of the French faction . He can rayse 30000 men . From thence passing the riuer we came soone to Fort Vrban , a Cittadel most regularly built by the command of Pope Vrban the VIII , from whom it s called . It s so strong , that it is not afrayd to stand , night and day , alone in the fields , and vpon the frontiers of the Popes Estate . Passing from hence through Castel Franco , anciently called , Forum Gallorum , we arriued betimes at Bologna . Bologna is one of the greatest townes of Italy , and one of the hansomest . It s the second of the Popes Dominions ; and the Chief Vniuersity of Italy for Law. Hence the Iurists say it is Musarum domus , atque omnis nutricula Iuris , and the very common coyne of the country tells you that Bononia docet . It s named , by the Common Prouerb , Bologna la grassa , because of the fertill foyle in which it stands , to wit in the very end of Lombardy ; and the many springs which humect it from the Apennin hills , at whose feet it stands . This country was anciently called Felsina , Gallia Cisalpina , Gallia Togata , to distinguish it from Gallia Braccata , The country in France neare Narbonne , And from Gallia Comata , The Country in France called la Guienne . In midling ages it was called Romagnola , because Bologna , Rauenna , Cezena , Forli , Faenza , and Imola stood constant to the Citty of Rome against the Lombards , for a long time . As for the towne of Bologna now , it s excellently well built ▪ and for the most part , vpon arches , like the Couent Garden in London ; onely the pillars are round . These Arches bring great conueniency to the inhabitants who can walk all the towne ouer coole and dry , euen in Iuly and Ianuary . It s fiue miles in compasse , and an excellent sommer towne , were it not that the ayre is not altogether so pure , and the wines heating . It s gouerned By a Legat a Latere , sent hither by the Pope , and in change , it sends an Embassador to Rome , to reside there : so that Bologna is treated by Rome , rather like a Sister , then à Subject ; and deseruedly , seing Bologna fell not to the Church any other way but by her free giuing her self to the Pope ; reseruing onely to her self some particular Priuileges ; as power to send Embassadors to Rome ; and that if any towesman kill another , and can but escape away , his goods cannot be confiscated . I stayd six dayes here , in which time I saw these things . 1. The Dominicans Church and Conuent . In the Church , I saw the tombe of S. Dominick , Founder of that Order . It s all of white marble cut with curious figures relating to his life . In this Church is kept a famous manuscript , to wit , the Bible it self written in parchment by Esdras himself , sayth Leandro Alberto the Camden of Italy , and a Fryar of this Conuent . They shew you also here a curious Lampe sent to S. Dominicks tombe by the new conuerted Indians . It s of a most rare workmanship . Behind the high Altar stands the Quire so famous for the Seats , which are of a rare Mosaick work of coloured wood inlayd into pictures representing the old and new Testaments , and all wrought by one Laybrother called Fra Damiano di Bergamo . This kind of Mosaick work in wood was anciently ( sayth Vasari ) called Tarsia , and in this kind of worke Brunelleschi and Maiano did good things in Florence . But Iohn Veronese improued it much afterwards by boyling wood into seueral colours , and then inlaying it into what postures and figures he pleased . This Quire is showne to strangers as a rare thing ; and worthily , since the Emperour Charles the V , had the curiosity to see it , and with the point of his dagger to try whether it were inlayd , or onely painted ; and the peece which he picked out with his dagger , was neuer put in againe for a memorandum . In this Church , as also in the Chapterhouse and Cloister of this Conuent , lye buryed many Readers of the Law , who hauing liued here by the Law , dyed here also by the Law of Nature . 2. The Conuent here is one of the fairest in Europe , in which 150 Fryars constantly liue and study . The little Chappel , which was once S. Dominicks Chamber ; the vast Dorm●tory ; the fair Library ; the great Refectory , and the curious Cellar are showne courteously to strangers . 3. The Nunnery of Corpus Christi . It s of S. Clares Order , and famous for the body of Beata Catherina di Bologna ▪ a most holy Nun of this Order and Conuent . I saw her body sitting straight vp in a chair , in her Religious habit : She holds her Rules in her right hand ; and we see her face , and and feet plainly , but those black and dryed vp . 4. From hence I went on to the towne Gate , a little out of which gate lyes a faire street where they make the Corso of coaches in sommer euenings . 5. Turning from hence on the left hand , I went to S. Michael in Bosco a stately Monastery of Oliuetan Fathers , standing vpon a high hill . From this Hill I had a perfect view of Bologna vnder me , and of all the country about it ; which being leuel and strowed with a world of white houses and Villas , looked like a Sea loaden with ships vnder sayl . Entring into this Monastery , I saw the Oual Court painted by seueral prime masters , of which Guido Rheni of Bologna was one . Then mounting vp to the Dormitory , I found it to be one of the fairest I had euer seen . 6. The Monastery , or Conuent of the Franciscans , with the rare row of pillars , and portico towards the street , the excellent Cloisters , and the curious Cellar . 7. The Monastery of S. Saluatore with its two Vast Courts or double Cloister built vpon galleries aboue , it s a noble building . 8. The Monastery of the Seruits , that of the Augustins , and that of the Carmelits are all of them such stately buildings , that I may boldly say , that no towne in Europe is comparable to Bologna for fair Monasterys . 9. Then I visited San Petronio standing in the end of the great Piazza , of which Church Leandro Alberto writ a hundred years ago , that he thought it would not be ended but with the worlds end . And I am half of his opinion : for when I passed that way last I found the scaffolds yet standing , which I had found there one and twenty years before ; and yet in all my fiue Voyages into Italy , I found them alwayes knocking and making as much noise and dust , as if this Church should be finished within half a yeare , when as yet half of it is onely finished . In this Church Charles the V. was crowned Emperour by Clement the VII . 10. The Domo , which is not yet half funished neither : yet that which is finished promiseth fair for the rest . 11. The new Church of S. Paul hath a curious High Altar . In the Church of S. Giouanni in Monte is the rare picture of S. Cecily of the hand of Raphael Vrbin . The Iesu is Church , the Church of S. Stephen , and that of the Passion deserue to be seen . 12. After the Churches and Monasterys , we went on with visiting the rest of the towne , and saw the Pallace of the Popes Legate : in this Pallace I saw the rare Cabinet and Study of Aldrouandus , to whom Pliny the Second if he were now aliue , would but be Pliny the Sixt , for he hath printed six great volumes of the natures of all things in nature , each volume being as big as all Plinyes workes . They shewed me here two or three hundred manuscripts , all of this mans owne hand writeing , and all of them Notes out of the best authors , out of which Notes hee compiled his six great Volumes which are now in print . Seeing these Manuscripts I asked whether the man had liued three hundred years , or no , as it s sayd Ioannes de Temporibus , In Charles the greats time did : but it was answered me , that he liued onely fourscore and three : a short age for such a long work : but it sheweth vs how farre a man may trauel in sciences in his life time , if he rise but betimes , and spurr on all his life time with obstinate labour . Certainly had he wrote before Salomons time , Salomon would haue changed his saying , and instead of sending the slothfull man to learne of the pismire how to labour , he would haue sent him to Aldrouandus his study and example : Vade ad Aldrouandum piger . 13. The Great Schooles here where the Doctours of the Vniuersity read are stately both within , and without . 14. The Spanish Colledge founded here by noble Cardinal Albornozzo , deserues to be taken notice of . It s well built , with a hansome Church and fiue Priests to serue it . The intention of his Colledge is to furnish all the King of Spayns dominions in Italy with able Magistrats and officers of Iustice . None can liue in it but Natural Spaniards ( except the Chaplains ) and those Spaniards must be Doctors of the Law before they can be admitted here ▪ they onely learne the language and customes of the countryes , and perfect themselues in the study of the Law , that they may bee fitt to fill vp the first vacant places of Iudicature that fall either in the State of Milan , in the kingdome of Naples , or in Sicily . They haue a reuenew of twelue thousand crownes a year . They keep two Coaches , liue very nobly , and lodge all Spanish Embassadors , Cardinals , and Prelats of their nation that passe this way . In the Colledge you see the pictures of many great Statesmen and Cardinals , and others , who haue been of this Colledge : but no picture pleased me like that of their braue founder noble Cardinal Albornozzo which is in the Church , and representing him in the same posture he was in , when he recouered all the Popes state in Italy , vnto the Pope then at Auignon ; of which I haue spoken sufficiently aboue in describeing Auignon . 15. The two Towers here in the midst of the towne , the one very high and straight called , de gli Asinelli ; the other low and bending , called la Carisenda . They would make vs beleeue that this bending tower was made crooked a purpose ; and its strang to see how most men make it their business rather to see this low crooked tower , then the other , which is hoth higher and straighter . But ther 's no mastery to make things ill , and to misse of our aymes : and I rather think the Carissenda or low Tower , went not vp higher , because the Architect perceiued it went vp awry . But we strangers admire euery thing in strange countryes , and that makes that none admire vs : Vpon which occasion I would wish my yong traueler neuer to admire any thing in outward shew , but to looke curiously at euery thing without crying out , ô che Belae Cosa ! This will get him and his Nation farre more honour , for Admiration is but the daughter of Ignorance ; and Magnanimus , ( saith Aristotle ) nihil admiratur . 16. Then the Houses here , which are generally well built , and in Sommer time , setting open their dores & gates towards the street , you may looke quite through their courts , entryes , portches , houses , and a huge way into their gardens , which euen from thence , will salute your eye with dainty perspectiues , fountains , and fresh verdure ; and your nose too with curious smells of Iesmin , and Orenge flowers , as they did mine often . Now the best Pallaces here are those of Maluezzi , Campeggi , Pepoli , Fachinetti , Cespi and others . 17. These fine houses are full also of Nobility , and I remember to haue seen here at a Corsodi Paglio vpon Midsommer day the long great , street lined quite through with coaches on both sides , & those coaches double lined with Ladyes and Caualiers of Garbo . Indeed it would be pitty , that such a stately towne as Bologna , should like Leyden in Holland , be full onely of Hanses and Boren . 18. Their traffick here consisteth much in silks , veluets , oliues , leather bottles , gellies , wash balls , and little doggs for Ladyes , which here are so little , that the Ladyes carrying them in their muffs , haue place enough for their hands too . 19. Their markets here are also exquisitly good for all prouisions of mouth , witness their salsiccie onely whith are a regalo for a Prince . 20. But that you may not think them better fed , then taught ; they haue erected here an Acadamy of wits called , Gli Otiosi , or , Jdlemen , by a figure of Rhetorick called a Lye , or per antiphrasim , because they are not idle . It s this Academy ( I beleeue ) which hath helpt to set out three rare moderne writers of this towne , Cardinal Bentiuoglio , The Marquis of Maluezzi , and Iohn Baptista Manzini ; the first , the Titius Liuius of his age , the second , the Lucius Florus of his age ; and the third , the Marcus Tullius of his time . To whom I may add Leandro Alberti , the Chamden of Italy . 21. He that desires to know the particular history of Bologna , let him read Bartholomeo Gal●otti , and Giouanni Garzo , where hee shall finde how Bologna suffered much anciently by the two opposit factions of the Lambertazzi and the Geremei . But now they enjoy quiet and repose vnder the Pope . Hauing thus seen Bolognia , and being armed with a Bolettina di Sanita , taken here , to make vs be let passe into the State of Florence , we steered on horseback towards Florence and reacht it in two dayes . The first dayes journey by Pianora , Loiano , Scarga L'Azino , Pietra Mala , and ouer the Apennins , was long and tedious enough , till the night came , at which time we were much recreated with the sight of a Fire which appeared some two miles off in the side of a montain on our left hand . This fire appears here frequently especially in clowdy wheather : and it appeared to mee for an hour together as I road along , to be still of the same bignesse , and of the same glowy colour ( fornace like ) and of a perfect round forme , and not pyramidal , as other flames are . The country people here call this fire , La Bocca d' Inferno , Hells mouth ; and I knowe not why they may not as well call this fire so , as Tertullian calls Vesuuius and Aetna ( two burning montaines ) Fumariola inferni , Hells chimneys . Taken in fine , with this fixed meteor , we forgot the tediousness of the way and came to Fiorenzuola . The next morning passing by Scarperia and Il Ponte wee arriued betimes at Florence I confesse , I stirred not out of my Inn that night , because fair Florence ( as the Prouerb calls her ) is not to be seen in fowle linnen , and rideing boots : but getting vp betimes the next morning , I gaue my eyes such a breakfast as Princes eyes would bee glad to feed vpon . But before I come to the particulars of what I saw in Florence , I will consider it in great , and then come to the Detail of it . Diuers good Authors are of opinion that this towne was first built by Syllas soldiers , to whom he had giuen this soyle for their seruices done him in his Ciuil warrs . They built it neare the current of two riuers ( Arno and Munio ) and from thence it was called at first Fluentia ( as Coblentz in Germany , from the meeting of riuers , is called Confluentia . ) Afterwards by the Inhabitants it was called Florentia , by reason of the fruitfull soyle which made it florish with all delicacies ; as also for the florishing wits of the inhabitants , who were so famous anciently in point of witt , that the very Romans vsed to send their children first into Toscany , to be bred in learning and Religion , and then into greece to learne Greek and Philosophy . Haueing enquired the name of this towne , I began to desire its better acquaintance , and attained it easily in a months space which I spent here : The things I obserued most were these . 1. The Chappel of S. Laurence , which is the nearest thing that euer eye beheld . All the inside of it is to be ouercrusted with Iasper stones , of seueral colours and countryes , with other rich stones , all aboue marble , and all so neatly polished and shining , that the Art here exceeds the materials . This Chappel is round , and round about are to by fixed within the walls , as high as a man can reach , the Tombes of all the Great Dukes of Florence , in a most gallant manner , and of most exquisit polished stones , with a great cushen of some richer stone , and a Ducal crowne of pretious stones reposeing vpon that cushen . Ouer these Tombes the Statues of all the Great ●ukes , at full length , and in their Ducal habits , all of brasse guilt , are to be placed in Niches round about the Chappel . The roof is to Vaulted all ouer with an ouercrusting of Lapis Lazuli ( a blew pretious stone with vaines of gold in it ) which will make it looke like heauen it self . Between each tombe are inlayd in the walls , the armes , or Scutchions of the seueral townes of the Great Dukes dominions , all blazoned according to their seueral colours in herauldry , by seueral pretious stones which compose them : and these are not made in little , but are fair great Scutchions made purposely of a larg sise for to fill vp the voyd places between the Tombes . The townes are these ; Florence , Siena , Pisa , Liuorno , Volterra , Arezzo , Pistoia , Cortona , Monte Pulciano &c. which contributed ( I suppose ) something each of them to this costly Fabrick in fine , this Chappel is so rich within with its owne shining bare walls , that it scorns all hangings , painting , guilding , mosaick work , and such like helpers off of bare walls , because it can find nothing richer and hansomer then its owne pretious walls . It s now aboue threescore years since it was begun , and there are ordinarily threescore men at work dayly here , and yet ther 's onely the Tombe of Ferdinand the Second perfectly finished . The very Cushen which lyeth vpon his Tombe , cost threescore thousand crownes , by which you may gesse at the rest ▪ indeed these stately Tombes make almost death it self looke louely , and dead mens ashes grow proud againe . As for the Altar and Tabernacle of this Chappel , I will speak of them by and by , when I describe the Gallery of the Great Duke , where they are kept till the Chappel be finished . 2. The Church of S. Laurence , which belongs to this Chappel , or rather to which this chappel belongs ; is a very hansom church designed by Brunellischi himself . The things that grace this church are the neat double row of round pillars which hold vp the roof of this Fabrick . The picture ouer the Quire painted in the roof , representing the genaral judgement , It s a bold peece and of Pontorno : The two Brazen pulpits wrought into hystorys by rare Donatello : The curious designed picture of S. Anne and our Blessed Lady , in chiaro e oscuro , by Fra Bartolomeo , commonly called Del Frate , is so wel a designed peece , that a Duke of Mantua , haueing seen it , offered to buy it at any rate , but was refused . The new Sacristy ( made to serue the fine Chappel described aboue ) deserues to be carefully visited , because of the bodyes of the Princes of the Family of Medices , which are depositated here , till the Chappel mentioned aboue , be finished . In this new Sacristy also are seen , the four statues made by Michael Angelo representing The Day , the Night , Aurora , and the Euening ; the four parts which compose Time , by which all men are brought to their Graues : That which represents Night , is a rare statue , and hugely cryed vp by all Sculptors and Virtuosi . See also in the Wall of the old Sacristy the neat Tombe of Iohn and Peter Medices sonns of Cosmus surnamed Pater Patriae ; It s the worke of Andrea Varochio . In the midst of this Church , before the High Altar , lyes buryed Cosmus Pater Patriae the Rayser of the Medicean family . In the Cloister ioyning to this Church , is erected the Statue of Paulus Iouius the Historian ; and neare to this statue you mount vp a pair of stairs to the rare Library of Manuscripts called , Bibliotheca Laurentiana , the Catalogue of whose bookes is printed at Amsterdame an : 1622 , in octauo . 3. The Gallery of the old Pallace . This is that Gallery so famous , and so frequently Visited by all Strangers . At your entrance into this Gallery , you see a Vast long roome made like an L : on the left hand of this Gallery , there runns a perpetual glasse window ; on the other side are set a row of pictures in great , of those of the Medicean Family : vnder the windowes , and also vnder the sayd Pictures stand a row of curious Marble statues , ancient ones all , and of prime hands . Ouer the sayd windowes and Pictures runns a close row of lesse Pictures , representing to the life , the most famous men of later times for learning , and Armes ; the soldiers being on the right hand , and the schollers on the left . The statues aforesayd are well nigh a hundred in all , but all rare ones : Some whereof I yet remember , and they are these : That of Leda , of Diana , of Bacchus , of Hercules , of the Gladiator standing on his gard , of Scipio Africanus in brasse , shewing the ancient habit and dresse of the old Romans , farre different from our modes : that of a little yong youth in brasse with his sword in his hand : that of a little boy sleeping vpon a touchstone : The head of Cicero in marble : that of Seneca : the Head of Michael Angelo Bonarota in brasse of his owne hand makeing : in fine , the head of Brutus one of Caesars murderers ; It was begun in marble by Michael Angelo , but informedly ; and so left by him : If you will know the reason why he finished it not , read the distick written in brasse vnder this head by the sayd sculptor himself , thus : M. Dum Bruti effigiem Sculptor A. de marmore ducit , B. In mentem sceleris Venit , & F. abstinuit . The four corner letters signifying that Michael Angelus Bonarota Fecit . Among the pictures , I tooke particular notice of these Souldiers , of Hannibal that frighted Rome : of Scipio that tooke Carthage and vanquished Hannibal : of Pyrrhus that made the Romans glad to make peace with him : of Scanderbeg that made the Great Turk afrayd to fight with him : of Venerius that helpt to winn the battle of Lepento : of Alexander Farnese that neuer lost battle : of Cortesius that found out new countryes : of Magellanus that found out new Seas ▪ of Andrea D'Oria who beat the French by Sea : of Gaston de Foix who had beat the Spaniards by land if he had but knowne how to vse his Victory : of the Duke of Alua , who onely lamented deying that he had neuer fought a pitchd battle with the Turks : of Anne de Montmorency who dyeing was glad to dye in a pitchd batle against the Hugonots : of Eccelino the Paduan Tyrant , of whom no man can Speak any good : of Castrucio of whom no man can speake any ill ; with a world of other braue Heros with whose true lookes I was very glad to be acquainted . Among the pictures of the learned men I tooke particular notice of these Italians , to wit , Petrarck , Ariosto , Ioannes Casa , Poggio , Macchiauel , Guiciardin , Paulo Iouio , Sannazario , Bocaccio , Platina , Brunelleschi , Michael Angelo , Raphael Vrbin , Columbus , Americus , and Galileo , with many others too long to relate , and too many to be rememberd . Hauing thus gazed our fill at these statues and pictures , and by particular taking notice of-them , complimented the great Worthyes they represent , we where let into the great Cabinets , or Chambers which joyne vpon this Gallery . First , we saw the Armory , that is , three or four great chambers full of exotick curiosityes : as , the habits of two Indian Kings made of Parrats Feathers sowed together : the habits of some Ianissaryes in Turky , of read veluet set thick with little nayles of gold , which they can take out and dresse vp other sutes with : the habit of the King of China : the skin of a horse pasted vpon a woodden horse , the mane of which horse is kept there in a box all at length , and it is aboue fiue elles long : This horse had been sent to the Great Duke by the Duke of Lorraine . Then we were showne Hannibals Helmet : the Helmet of Charles the V ; the sword of Henry the IV of France ; a curious Helmet thin and light , and yet of musket proof ; a huge heauy Helmet and sword of one of the old Paladins of France ; the true sword of Scanderbeg , a world of Cimetars , scabards , capps , saddles and other Turkish furniture set thick with Turquoises in gold ; a great gunn , whose thick barrel is of pure gold , and yet as long as an ordinary fowling peece , and as heauy as a strong man can well leuel with : it s valued at 1500 pistols , and shoots twice as farre as another gunn of iron doth , but kills ( I beleeue ) with the same payne that others do , though with a little more honour . Here is a great pistol of gold . Then the buona notte , or set of pistols ( fiue pistol barrels set together in an iron Frame ) to put into your hat , and to be all shot off at once from thence , as you seem to salute your enemy and bid him , Good night . The pistol with eighteen barrels in it , all to be shot off at once and scattering desperatly about a Roome ▪ six little cannons set in starre wise . The little Brasse Cannon which may be taken in peeces presently , and set together as soone , and so be carryed easily into any steeple , or tower : such Cannons as these might easily be carryed in deep countryes , and ouer high mountains , euery Soldier carrying a peece . The statue in brasse of the King of Spayne , Philip the fourth on horseback , iust of the bigness of that of gold which the Great Duke sent to the sayd King of Spayne for a present ; It was made by rare Iohn di Bologna . Then I saw the armour for horse and man of two Kings of Persia . The armour of the Great Duke Ferdinand , a goodly man. The King of Swedes Cornet taken in Germany in a battle . The buckler with the Medusas head on it , painted by Michael Angelo . A Turkish Bell to ring in time of battle . A horne vsed in Turkey to call men to their Moskyes instead of bells , as we haue . The head of a halbard ringing like a bell . A halbard to fould vp in three , and to carry vnder your cloake priuatly . A staff of a white cane , in which are curiously engrauen in black , the hystoryes of the Apocalipse . It was the Duke of Vrbins . In fine , the loadstone holding vp threescore pound weight of iron , and holding one key to an other , for a matter of fiue , or six keyes . After the armory , we were let into the fiue Cabinets full of pretious iewels , pictures , and other rare curiosityes . In the first Cabinet , I was showne a curious Clandlestick to hang vp in the middle of a roome with seueral branches spreading from it , and all of yellow Amber , including within it a world of little figures of white marble or waxe , neatly cut in little , and appearing through the transparent yellow amber : This Candlestick was giuen by the Duchesse of Lunebourg , to the Duke of Saxony , and by him to Prince Mathias brother to this Great Duke of Florence . In the same Cabinet I saw a Table of polished stones of seueral colours and lustre , inlayd into birds and flowers . The head of Tiberius Caesar in one Turky stone , as big as a Ducks egg , and of an inestimable value . A curious cabinet , or two , of yuory cupps brought out of Germany by Prince Matthias . In the same Cabinet I saw the picture of Cardinal Bembo in a neat Mosaick work ; and an other peece of diuers birds in mosaick also , rarely done by Marcellus Prouincialis . I saw also there diuers little old Pagan Idols in iron ; and brasse . A designe of Raphaels owne hand ; and some good pictures . In the 2 Cabinet I saw two great Globes ; which were made in this roome , being too great euer to be carryed out , or brought into it by the doore . I saw also here a curious table of polished stones representing a towne in Bohemia , w●th diuers pictures of men , horses , and Landskips : where there is a tree represented most naturally , because it is represented by the very wood of a tree Petrifyed into stone , and looking like wood as it was ; and shinning like polishd stone , as it now is . The statues , or bustos of three or four of the Great Dukes , in Porphyry . A curious looking glasse ouer the inside of the doore , which placed directly ouer the picture of a man , contracts into it the picture of a woman ( that mans wife ) which you see plainly in it : drawing thus Eue out of Adam againe by a curious reflexion . In the 3 Cabinet I was showne a curious table of polished stones representing perfectly the towne and hauen of Ligorne . A great Cabinet of Ebeny beset with pretious stones on the outside , and with the history of the holy Scriptures curiously expressed in miniature in seueral little squars of rich stones set here and there . In the top of it , there is a German clock , now out of order , and no man dare mend it . Within this great Cabinet I saw the passion of our Sauiour curiously cut by Michael Angelo in yuory ( say they ) but I beleeue it s in white waxe . There is also in it the figures of our Sauiour and his twelue Apostles in yellow amber with their heads in white amber : All these seueral peeces are not seen at once , but come vp into sight one after another , as the man turns them . This Ebeny Cabinet was sent ●o the great Duke by the Duke of Bauaria , and it s valued at fourscore thousand crownes : I beleeue , if it were to be sold , it would not yeeld forty thousand crownes ; but its hansome , sayth Seneca , for those that receiue courtesies , to value them high . Here are also some pictures of great value , as the Adam and Eue of the hand of Alberto Dureo , an original peece valued at 1500 crownes . An original Venus of Titian , that in the Poggio Imperiale here ( of which below ) looking but like a good coppy of this . Here are also seueral Persian chairs , and other good originals of prime hands . In the 4. Cabinet , called Jl Tribuno we saw more riches then in all the others . This Tribuno is a great roome built roūd with a Cupola , whose vault is painted with a deep sanguin red , set full with the shells of Mother of pearle . The walls of this roome are hung with green silk , and loaden with excellent pictures of the prime masters of the world , Titian , Raphael , Andrea del Sarto , Vinci , Hans Holbain , Vandike and others . The S. John Baptist is of Raphaels hand ; as is also that of Leo the X. with two Cardinals , Iulio Medici , & Cardinal Rossi behinde him . The picture of Southwell priuie Counselour to Henry the VIII , is of the hand of rare Hans Holbain . The picture of our Lady with our Sauiour in her armes is of the hand of Andreo del Sarto . The picture of Cardinal Bentiuoglio sitting in a chair , is of the hand of Vandike . There is also a rare picture in miniature of Giulio Glorios hand , and three fair peeces in miniature of an Augustin Friar yet liuing , and a man of great esteeme ; hauing taken the right course to be famous , that is , to make but few peeces , but these finished with all the patience which miniature requires . In this tribuno I saw also the famous Nayle half gold , half iron , made by the famous Alchimist Thurnheuser . They shewed me also a great lump of gold , not yet stamped into coyne ; two shells of Mother of pearle with their two pearles still sticking to them , and iust as they grow : The Pearles , are rich pearles and round . The two peeces of Emmeraud-rock , the one scarce formed yet into perfect Emmeraud , but onely begun : the other quite finished and green . Then two close cupbords within the walls of this roome , in which I saw a world of curious cupps and Vases of crystal , Agate , Lapis Lazuli , and other such curious , but brickle matter , yet of rare fabrick and shape : They value them at two hundred thousand crownes . The Vnicorns horne , and the alabaster pillar are not to be forgotten . The great Cabinet of Ebeny standing at the further end of this Tribuno , full of ancient meddals of gold syluer , and brasse , of the ancient Consuls , and Emperors , all digested into their seuerall series ; and yet this Cabinet is almost as rich without , as it contains riches within ; being set without with pretious stones of a vast biggness and value ; to wit , a Saphir as broad as a twenty shilings peece , and half an niche thick ; a ruby full as great , but farre richer ; an emmeraud not inferiour to the rest ; a pearle as big as an ordinary wallnut ; a world of Diamonds and other lesser stones , but all of so great value , that this Cabinet , with that which is in it , is valued to be worth fiue hundred thousand crownes . Lastly , I saw here the great round table made of inlayd pretious stones , polished neatly ; a table able to make the most hungry stomack forget its gumbing , to feed its eyes vpon the vnroasted birds which together with curious flowers compose this admirable table ; Pearles , Rubies , Saphirs , Cornelians , Emmerauds , Lapis Lazuly &c. are employed here artificially to the makeing of these birds & flowers . You l conceiue better of this table when I shall tell you that it is worth a hundred thousand crownes , and that it was fiftheen yeares in makeing , and yet thirty men wrought at it dayly . In the midst of it is the great Balle of the Armes of the Duke of Florence in pretious stones . The 5. Cabinet standing at the further end of this Gallery , containeth the Altar and Tabernacle , which are to be set vp in the new Chappel of S. Laurence described aboue . Hauing viewed them six seuerall times exactly ( as I did ) you will perchance be of my opinion , that this Tabernacle made for to keep the Blessed Sacrament in , is able , or nothing is able , to make a mends in same sort , to our Sauiour for his course lodgeing in Bethleem , when he was borne in a stable and lodged in a manger . The crystal pillars curiously wrought , and being a full elle long , with their Capitelli of pure gold : the four like pictures of pretious stones which were fiue yeares each of them in cutting : the Variety of other pretious stones set thick here and there , and of great size : the neat contexture of other polished stones of seuetall colours and lustre : the pictures of inlayd pretious stones , which compose the Antependium of the Altar : the variety of rich Cameos which are set here and there , and cut into pictures : in fine , the whole composure of this Altar and Tabernacle , being the height of wit and riches , I can neither describe enough , nor you admire sufficiently . 4. Hauing thus seen the Gallery and adioyning Cabinets , I was presently led into another quarter of this Pallace , where I saw the Great Dukes Argentaria , or Plate . Entring into this great squar room , I saw twelue great cupbords as high as the roome , sett with excellent plate in all kindes . In one of them they shewed me a whole seruice of beaten gold , as dishes , plats , forks , spoones , knifes , with a world of other rich vessells set in gold ; also little pictures in miniature ; curious little Cabinets beset with gold and iewels ; a Turkish Cimetar whose handle and scabbard of gold , are thick set with diamonds and pretious stones ; two other swords with their hilts of gold curiously wrought with Diamonds ; a Dagger sutable to one of them and of the same richness ; a great Crosse set think with Diamonds , and other pretious stones ; a rare cup of one great Emmeraud , with a couer to it of the same ; a basin and Eure of gold set very thick with Turky stones . In another Cupbords I saw great variety of syluer plate in all kindes . In an other , they shewed me a saddle and bridle with stirops of gold , all set thick with Turky stones , Diamonds , Pearls , and other rich stones , with the saddle clot● , or housse , all embrodered with Gold and Pearle : this was a present from the Emperour to the Grand Duke . In an other cupbord they shewed me the four great syluer bedposts enameld here and there , and set with polished stones of diuers colours : They were made for the marriage bed of the now Great Princesse daughter to the late Duke of Orleans . In an other they shewed me a curious Antependium for an Altar , all of beaten gold set with Pearle , pretious stones , and the picture of Cosmus the second in the middle of it , of curious enameled work , with his Ducal crowne set with Diamonds very richly ; all along this Antependium aboue , runns an Inscription in letters composed of many rubies , each letter being two fingars long , and importing these words : COSMVS II DEI GRATIA MAGNVS DVX ETVRIAE EX VOTO . In another cupbord I was showne the foot of an Elan , and a Visard all set , and couered with Turky stones . 5. Descending from hence , we where led into the great Hall of this pallace , a vast roome painted on all sides of the Walls with bold painting , representing the Victoires of the Florentins anciently . Here it is that on midsommer day , the country people come and dance before the Great Duke , and the best dancers are recompenced with an honorable reward . 6. From hence I was let into the long Corridor , or close Gallery which runns from the new Pallace to the old , ouer the riuer , and ouer the topps of houses ; for the space of half a mile , with many turnings and windings . It s very vsefull for the Prince when he will go see his pretious Treasure in the old Pallace , or els go priuately and heare how iustice is ministred there . For the Great Duke Francis gaue order to Buontalenti , a rare Architect , to break a window from this Corridor into the great roome in the old pallace , where the magistrats render iustice , but yet so priuately that none should perceiue it . The Architect did it , by setting vp there the Dukes armes at large , and breaking a window behinde them so imperceptibly , that the Great Duke through the little holes made in the six boules of his armes , could both heare and see how Iustice was rendered there by his officers . And one day hearing a poore woman oppressed by an vniust sentence , he sent for the Iudges , and reprehending them seuerely , he reuersed the former sentence , and hearing the cause a new himself , pronunced Sentence for the poore woman . 7. This long Corridor led vs to the new Pallace , called the Palazzo di Piti , because it was begun to be built by Luca Piti , after the designe of Brunellischi : but the expences growing too great for Pitis purce , it was bought by the mother of great Cosmus the II , and afterwards carryed on by her to that perfection we now see it in , and which makes it one of the prime pallaces of Europe . The designe of it ( for it is not yet all quite built ▪ is to be a perfect Roman H , with double roomes on all sides . As you ascend vp to it , by an easy ascent from the street , it presents you with a fair broad side of building , in which I counted two and twenty great windows all in a row , and all a like , and all of them cheekt vp on either Fide by Sine stone pillars . The fashion of building in this pallace , as in most of the best pallaces of Florence , is that which they call in architecture , la maniera rustica ; where great freestones are made aduanceing a little one ouer the other . Entering into the Pallace , we saw the fair court ; and in the end of it , the Grotta or fountain with a larg basin , in which they keep fish for present vse . This Court is squar , and open onely on one side towards the garden , but hedged in with a high terrasse of stone , whose top is leuel with the ground of the garden . Beyond this terrasse and court , lyes a fine green spot of ground leuel with the first story of the pallace , and half compassed about with a demicircle of laurel trees high and thick . Vnder these trees of the demicircle , rise vp stone seats , six rowes high , like the seats in an Amphitheater ; and capable of two thousand men , who may all sit here with ease , and behold the sports of Caualry which are often exhibited vpon this fair green spot of ground by the nobility : the Great Duke and the Court beholding all this from the windows of the pallace , while the rest of the nobility and Ladyes are seated conueniently in the Amphitheater vnder the trees . The rest of this garden is curiously setforth with thickets of bayes , close shady walkes , fine high open walkes ouer looking both the towne and country , great ponds of water , a world of statues of marble and stone , a rare round basin of water , with fountains and much wetting sport ; the place for birds and beasts ; the curious Ice house and coole Cellar vnder it , where the melting ice dropping downe vpon the barrels of wine , refresh it so exceedingly , that in all my life time I neuer drunck so coole , as I did at the tap in this cellar . But to returne againe to the pallace , from whence this garden hath led me ; from the garden , we ascended into the chambers of the Great Dukes appertiment , and found them most sumptuous , both for contriuance and furniture . Some of them are painted ouer head by Pietro di Cortona the prime painter now liuing : others expect his returne againe from Rome , and scorne to be painted by any hand but his : in another chamber , we were showne the history of Saleucus giuing to his onely sonn Antiochus ( languishing and pincing away with the loue of his mother in law ) his owne beloued wife Stratonica ; shewing by this strange , and vnick example , that paternal loue is greater then Conjugal . All this is rarely painted vpon the wall ouer the hangings . In another chamber ( the Great Dukes chamber of Audienc ) I saw a sute of hangings Valewed at a hundred and fifty thousand crownes : The Ground of them is cloth of gold , vpon which are embrodered a world of birds , beasts , flowers , trees , riuers , Land-skips in silk and syluer ; and in such a rich manner , that I take this to one of the fairest sutes of hangings in Europe . In an other chamber here , I saw a rare collection of pictures , all originals , and of the best hands in the world , Titians , Raphaels , Michael Angelos , Andrea del Sartos , and many others . The best of them is that of Raphael , and painted by his owne hand . This is the best collection of pictures that euer I saw , and it belongs to Prince Leopold the Great Dukes brother , and a great Virtuoso . In the Great Dutcesses chamber , I saw half a dozen of excellent peeces of Raphael and others . In another chamber ( The Dukes Bedchamber ) we saw his curious Thermometers , or weather glasses , which are most curious . In an other chamber ( the doores being set open for the Nonce ) we looked through sixteen chambers at once , and all of them faire great roomes vpon one floore . And after all the roomes of this house ( as , the coole low sommer roomes , the masking roome , the seueral appartiments of the Great Prince sonn of the Great Duke , and of Cardinal Iohn Carlo , Prince Matthias , and Prince Leopold all three brothers of the Great Duke , and all lodgeing at once in this great Pallace ) by special fauour , we got the sight of the Great Dukes faire Diamond , which he alwayes keeps vnder lock and key . It s absolutly the fairest in Europe , It weigheth 138 charats , and it s almost an inch thick : and then our iewellers will tell you what its worth . I am sure Monsieur Simonet in Lyons ( a famous ieweller ) to whom I shewed the weight and thickness of it , valewed in to be richly worth a hundred thousand crownes between marchant and marchant , and a hundred and fifty thousand crownes between Prince and Prince . 8. Going from the Great Dukes Pallace , we fell presently vpon the Augustins Church . This is a neat Church designed by Brunelleschi , and much beautifyed with hansome pillars . The Tabernacle and High Altar cost a hundred thousand crownes , and yeeld to few in Italy for neatness and state . Behinde the High Altar in the very end of the Church , is a rare picture of our Sauiour absoluing the poore woman catched in adultery . The confusion that appeares in the face of this woman , makes it appeare what a rare painter Allori was , who made this picture . 9. Passing from hence ouer the bridge ( where foure white marble statues representing the four seasons of the yeare stand , all made by Michael Angelo ) we came to the Piazza of the Gran Duca , where I saw the Equestris statue of Cosmus the Great in Bronze , with his Victoryes and prime actions in the pedestal , of the same mettal . At the corner of the old pallace in this Piazza , stands the braue Fountain , with a Neptune , Tritons , and Nereides . Neare the gates of the pallace here , stand two statues of more then Gygant can bulk : that of Dauid is the hand of Michael Angelo : and that of Hercules killing Cacus is of the hand of Bandinelli . The other statues here in the Portico hard by , are much cryed vp for rare peeces , as that of Perseus in brasse ; that of the rapt of the Sabins , in marble ; and that of Iudith in brasse holding a sword in one hand , and Holofernes his head in the other . 10. Looking vp from this Piazza to the top of the pallace , I beheld the high Tower mounted thereupon . It s a hundred and fifty yards from the ground , and which is the wonder , it hath no other foundation then the wall of the pallace and the top of the house : Hence it s sayd , that the Florentins haue three wonderfull Towers : one in the ayr'● to wit , this Tower : an other in the water , to wit the Fanal of Ligorne : and the third in the Earth , to wit , the Campanile of Florence , whose foundations are exceeding deep in the ground . 11. Going from the Piazza towards the Domo , we were presently stopt by the Church of S. Michael a square flat Church , whose outside is adorned with rare statues , if not of gold , yet worth their weight it gold . The best are ▪ that of S. Matthew in brasse made by Laurentius Cion : that of S. Thomas in brasse thouching the side of our Sauiour with great demonstration of diffidence in his lookes , is of Andrea Varrochios hand . That of S. Peter in marble is excellent for the Drappery of it . That of S. George in marble , is compared to to the best in Rome , and hath been praysed both in Prose and verse : that of S. Marke hath so graue and honest a countenance , that Michel Angelo ( a competent iudge ) stopping one day to behold it , and being asked what he thought of it , answered : if S. Marke had Such a countenance as this , as its likely he had , a man might almost , for his lookes sake , beleeue all that he wrott : for neuer did I see ( sayd hee ) any man haue more the lookes of a good man , then this . 12. Going from hence we were presently at the Domo . This , I beleeue , was the finest Church in Italy when it was built . It was anciently called S. Reparatas Church ; but since it is called Santa Maria Florida , a fit name for the Cathedral of Florence . The foundations and architecture of it were contriueed by Arrolfo di Lapo , a Dutchman , and a la maniera rustica , sayth Vasari of it , In his life 's of painters . It s one of the neatest Churches without , that I euer beheld ; being elad in white , red , and black marble , but it s onely white plastered within , with pillars of a darke coloured freestone . What if the Architect of this Church were somewhat of Diogenes his minde ? and as Diogenes thought the world would be turned vp side downe one day ; so this Architect thought that the world would be turned inside out one day , and that then his Church would bee the fairest in the world , and all lined with marble : As it is , it lookes a little hypocritically ; though the structure within be of a notable contriuance . On the top of it stands mounted a fair Cupola ( or Tholus ) made by Brunelleschi a Florentin . This was the first Cupola in Europe ; and therefore the more admirable for hauing no Idea after which it was framed ; and for being the Idea of that of S. Peters in Rome , after which so many yong Cupolas in Rome , and els where , haue been made since . Hence it is sayd , that Michael Angelo comeing now and then to Florence ( his natiue country ) whiles he was makeing the Cupola in Rome of S. Peters Church , and viewing attentiuely this Cupola of Florence , vsed to say to it ; Como te non voglio : meglio di te non posso . It s sayd also that Brunelleschi makeing this Cupola caused Tauerns , cookeshops , and lodgeings , to be set vp in it , that the workmen might finde all things necessary there , and not spend time in going vp and downe : and he had reason : for this Cupola from the ground below , to the top of all the Lanterne , is two hundred and two Braccie , or yards high . The straight passage from the top of the cupola to the round brasen ball , is thirty six yards high . The Ball is four yards wide , and capable of four and twenty men : and the crosse at the top of this ball , is eight yards long . The straight passage vp to the Ball is neatly contriued , like a round chymney of white marble , with hols on both sides , and brazen steeps crosse those holes , to climbe vp easily , by hand and foote , the passage being clane and smooth . From the top of this Cupola , takeing a perfect view of Florence vnder vs ▪ and of the whole country about it , with the sight of two thousand Villas or country houses scattered here and there , round about the towne , we came downe againe to view the inside of this Church . It is about three hundred foot long , from the great doore to the Quire , and from thence to the end almost two hundred more . The Quire is round , and perpendicularly vnder the Cupola , being of the same bigness : and vpon solemne dayes when the wax candles are lighted round about it , it lookes gloriously : otherwise in wintertime it seems too dark . The High Altar , which stands in this Quire , is plain , like those of ancient Cathedrals , and adorned with a rare statue of a dead Christ in white marble made by the hand of Bandinelli . Looking vp from the Quire to the Cupola , you see it painted on the inside with the representation of heauen , hell and Purgatory . The painters were Georgio Vasari and Thaddeo Zucchari . Behinde the high Altar are the rare statues of Adam and Eue , by the hand of Bandinelli . neare the doore of the Sacristy , you may read an inscription , importing how that in this towne of Florence had been held a General Ceuncell , where the Revnion of the Latin and Greek Church had been made . The golden Diploma of this vnion written both in Latin and Greek , and subscribed vnto by the hands of the Pope and Cardinals on the one side ; and by the Emperour of Constantinople with the Patriarch of Constantinople and the Greek Bishops on the other side ; and authenticated by the leaden seale of the Pope , and the golden seale of the sayd Emperour , is kept in the Archiuiis or Registers of Bologna . In this Council both the Pope of Rome Eugenius the IV. and Paleologus the Emperour of Constantinople , were present , with the creame of Bishops , both of the Easterne , and Westerne Churches ; and in this Councell not onely the Procession of the Holy Ghost from the Father and the Sonn was vindicated ; but also Purgatory was proued to the Greeks out of their owne Greek Fathers , as well as out of the Latin Fathers ; and diuers other points of coremony and practise were asserted and made good . Vnto all which the sayd Emperour and Patriarch , and the other Greek Bishops ( except restless Marcus Ephesinus ) subscribed ; as did also the Armenians , Ethiopians , Georgians , and Iacobites , who all hereupon were admitted to Communion by the Roman Church . In fine , in this Church you see the statues of diuers Saints who haue been Archbishops of this towne ; and the Tombes of diuers famous men ; as of Marsilius Ficinus the Platonick Christian Philosopher : of Dante the Florentin Poët , whose true picture is yet to be seen here in a red gowne : of Ioannes Acutius an English Knight and General anciently of the Pisani , as the old Gothick letters set high vpon the wall vnder his picture on horseback , told me . Yet Verstegan will not haue him to haue been called S r. John Sharpe , but Sr. John Haukwood . But it imports little to me what his name was , seing he was a braue Englishman , and deserued to haue his tombe and inscription here , and his picture among the other worthyes in the Dukes Gallery . Here 's also in this Church the tombe of Brunelleschi , or Philippus Brunaltius , who made the Cupola of this Church : as also the tombe of Giotto , who made the Campanile , or fine steeple here . In fine here lyes also Cimabue the famous painter of his time . It was hee that first restored painting again which had been lost for many years in Italy , and taught it to Giotto , Gaddi , Taffi and others who carryed it on to a great height . 13. Neare to the Domo stands the Campanile , or high Steeple of Florence made by Giotto . It s a hundred and fifty braccie , or little yards high , and half as deep in the ground . It s flat at top , and crusted all ouer with curious little polished marble stones , marble pillars , and statues : so that ( as Charles the V. sayd of it ) if it had a case to couer it withall and hinder it from beeing seen too frequently , men would flock thither at the takeing off of this couer , as to see a wonder . Indeed it s a kind of wonder to see , that in three hundred years space , not the least part of that steeple ( all crust●d ouer with marble ) is perished . There are diuers good statues on all sides of it , but the best of them all is that of the Zuccone , or bald man , made by Donatello , which hee himself esteemed so much , that when he would affirme any thing seriously , he vsed to say : Alla fe ch'io porto al mio Zuccone : and the same Donatello hauing finished it , spoke to it in iest , and sayd : Fauella , horsu , fauella ; o ti venga il ca●asangue : such good conceits haue fantastical men of themselues and their owne works . 14. Neare to the Domo also , standes the Baptistery , or round Church of S. Iohn , where all the children of the towne are baptized . The brazen dores of it ( three in all ) are admirable , especialy that which lookes towards the Great Church , of which Michel Angelo being asked his opinion , answered , that it was so well made , that it might stand at the entrance of Paradise . These dores are all of Brasse historied into figures , containing the remarkable historyes of both the Testamen●s . They were the worke of braue Laurentius Cion , who spent fifty yeares in makeing them : a long time , I confesse ; but this is it which Apelles called aeternitati pingere , to worke things that will out-last brasse and be famous for euer . Within this Baptisiery , I saw a statue of S. Mary Magdalen of the hand of Donatello ; and it s a rare peece ; if you consider Magdalen in her pennance . Here 's also a neat Tombe of Baltassar Cossa , once called Iohn the XXIIII , but deposed in the Council of Constance , for the peace of the Church . The Tombe of this Baltassar looking something like a cradle , may be called the cradle of the greatness of the Medicean Family . For some writers say , that Cosmus Medices surnamed afterwards , Pater Patriae , being heire of this Baltassar Cossa ( who died at Florence , In the house of Iohn Medices ) With the money that he found belonging to him after his death , did such good deeds to the people , that he wonne to him self the name of Pater Patriae ; and to his Family , that credit , which got it afterwards the supreame command . 15. I cannot omit here to take notice of a little round pillar in the Piazza , neare this Baptistery , with the figure of a tree in iron nayled to it , and old words engrauen vpon it importing , that in this very place stood anciently an Elmetree , which being touched casualy by the hearse of S. Zenobius , as they carryed it here in procession , the tree presently hereupon budded forth with green leaues of sweet odour though in the month of Ianuary . In memory of which miracle , this pillar was set vp in the same place for a memorial . 16. From thence going to the Church of S. Mark belonging to the Dominicans , I saw there the Tombe of S. Antoninus Archbishop once of this towne , and a Fryar of this order . The Tombe is vnder the Altar in a neat Chappel on the left hand , made by Iohn di Bologna . In this Church also I saw a rare picture of S. Mark , made by Bartholomeo del Frate , it stands full in your sight as you enter into the Church ; and a man must be blind not to see it , and dull not to like it . On the left hand , as you enter into the Church is the Tombe of Picus Mirandula commondly called the Phoenix of Princes , with this Epitaph written vpon the side of the Wall , Ioannes iacet hîc Mirandula , caetera norunt Et Tagus & Ganges , forsan & Antipodes . Neare this tombe is a fine picture vpon an Altar , where two Little Angels are made playing vpon Musical instruments . These Angels are held to be the rarest peeces that can be seen in painting . They are of the hand of Bartholomeo del Frate . In the Conuent of these Fryars I saw often their still house , where they make , and sell , excellent extractions and cordiall waters . There is also a neat Library here filled with good books . 17. Turning from hence on the seft hand , I came presently to the Annuntiata , a place of great deuotion . The pictures of Faith and Charity ouer the Arch in the Antiporto , or open portch built vpon pillars , are of the hand of Iacomo Pontorno being but yet nineteen years old ; which when Michel Angelo first saw , he sayd : This Iacomo if he continue thus , will carry vp painting to the skies . Entring into the little court that stands before the Church dore , you see it painted round about in Fresco by rare hands . Those peeces that Andrea del Sarto made , are the best , and his head in white marble , is set in the wall . In the cloyster , ouer the dore that goes into the Church is seen a rare picture in fresco vpon the wall● of the hand of Andrea del Sarto . It represents our B. Lady with our Sauiour vpon her knee , and S. Ioseph in a cumbent posture leaning upon a sack full stufft , and reading in a booke . The picture of the Blessed Virgin is admirable for sweetness and majesty . This picture is called La Madonna del Sacco , it got Andrea such credit , that Titian himself preferred it before all the peeces he had euer seen , and vsed often to say : that it grieued him , that he could not often satiate his sight with the beholding of so rare a picture : and Michel Angelo talking once in Rome with Raphael Vrbin concerning painters , sayd thus to him : There is vn huom●e●tto , a little fellow in Florence ( meaning this Andrea ) who had he been employed in great matters as thou art , would make thee sweat againe . Virtuosi make a great dispute which of those three painters was the most excellent : Raphael Vrbin , Michel Angelo , or Andrea del Sarto . But the wisest giue euery one his particular praise or excellency : Raphael was excellent in colori : Michel Angelo in designe : and Andrea in makeing things seeme to be of rilieuo , and looke as God made them , that is , pulpy and riseing vp like liuing flesh . Haueing thus admired the worke of Andrea we entred into the Church of the Annunciata , and there saw the curious syluer Altar , behind vpon the wall , is kept the miraculous picture of the Annunciation which giues the name of Annunciata to this Church . The little picture of our Sauiour , about a foot and a half long , which is seen vpon the outside of the Tabernacle , is of the foresayd Andreas hand , & much esteemed . In this Church lyeth buryed Baccio Bandinelli a famous Sculptor , in a curious marble tombe , with his owne , and his wifes picture , engrauen in marble by his owne hand . Behinde the Quire lyes buryed Ioannes di Bologna , a famous Sculptor also , as his seueral works in Florence shew him to haue been ; as the Rapt of the Sabins , Before the old pallace . The Centaure in the streets . The Chappel of S. Antoninus in S. Markes Church . This Chappel in the Annunciata here ; and the golden horse and man spoken of aboue in the Dukes Armory , do wittness . 18. From hence hauing first seen the Statue of the Great Duke Ferdinand on horseback in brasse , which stands in the piazza before the Annunciata , I went to the Church of the Franciscans , called Santa Croce . This Church is of a large bulk and height , but somewhat too darke . The side Altars are many , and cheeked with round pillars , and adorned with excellent pictures . The pulpit would become A Chrysostome , or A Chrysologue : It s of white marble , in which are grauen the most notable actions of S. Francis in a basso rilieuo . I neuer beheld it , but I found some new graces in it . Somewhat behinde it , neere to a little doore , is the Tombe of Michel Angelo , the Trismegist of Italy , being the greatest Painter , the greatest Sculptor , the greatest Architect of his time . Hence ouer his tombe , and vnder his picture , are placed three women in white marble , representing Architecture , Painting , and Sculpture , holding in their hands the seueral instruments belonging to these professions . If you aske me whether of the two , Painting , or Sculpture , is to be preferred , though a blind man being chosen iudge once of this question , when he was giuen to vnderstand that in the smooth painting there were head , armes , leggs , hands and feet , as well as in the bulky statue which he had felt , iudged presently for painting ; yet Michel Angelo himself preferred Sculpture before painting , as the body is to be preferred before the superficies of a body . But to returne againe to the Tombe of this great artist , I found some words vpon the tombestone , but those so dull and hard to be read in that darke corner , that one in the company chose rather to make him a new Epitaphe , then read that which is written there : and it was this : Cur indignemur mortales morte perire ? Ecce , stupor mundi ! hîc Angelus ipso perit . And I think the moderne Roman was of the same mind too , when he chose also to make him this Epitaph : Roma mihi mortem tribuit , Florentia vitam . Nemo aliis vellet nasci , & obire , locis . In the midst of this Church I found buryed an English Bishop called Catrick , who had been Embassador here from England , and likely in the time of the Council of Florence . His armes were three catts argent in a sable field . In fine , at the very end of this Church , on the left hand , stands a neat chappel with a painted Cupola , belonging to the family of the Nicolini , in which Chappel there are excellent statues and pictures . 19. Not farre from hence stands the Abbadia , an Abbey of Benedictin Monks . In the Church is the tombe of the Founder of this Abbey a German nobleman called Conte Hugo , who commanded Toscany vnder the Emperor Otho the III. The occasion of building this Monastery and many others by this Hugo , is too long to tell , and perchance would not finde beleef euery where . It s told publickly euery yeare vpon S. Thomas his day in high Masse time here , by some one or other of the chief witts of the Academy of the Crusca ; and he that 's curious to know it , may heare it there , as I did , with great satisfaction . 20. From thence I went to the Church of Santa Maria Nouella belonging to the Dominicans . Here it is , that the Councell of Florence , spoken of aboue , was held . There are many good pictures in this Church , as also diuers neat tombes of holy men and women , and others : among which that of Ioseph Patriarch of Constantinople , who had been the blessed occasion and instrument of reduceing the Greek Church to the right faith againe , is remarkable . It s on the right side of the Church . 21. Returning from hence along the riuer side , we came to the high pillar with the Statue of Iustice in porphyry vpon it . It was erected here , because it was in this very place where Cosmus the great , heard the news of the reduction of Siena . A witty nobleman seeing this statue of Iustice vpon so high a pillar , sayd that Iustice here was too high place-ed , for poore men to arriue to it . An other obserued , that Iustice there turnes her back to the Courts of Iustice , which stand not farre from thence . 22. Hauing thus visited the chief things in the towne , I visited some places out of the towne ; and chiefly , the Poggio Jmperiale , a Villa belonging to the Great Dutchesse , and about a good mile distant from the towne . In this house I saw rare pictures , and great store of them , the house being furnished with nothing els . In one gallery are the true pictures of diuers late Princes of the house of Austria , of the house of Medices , and of other Princes their Allyes . In other roomes we saw a world of rare pictures , as the Venus of Titian , though I think it be but a coppy : the admirable S. Hierome of Alberto Dureo : a Magdalen of Raphaels hand : a S. Iohn Baptist of Carauagios hand : an Adam and Eue of Alberto Dureo : the Piety of Pietro Perugino , that is , the picture of our Blessed Lady with our Sauiour dead vpon her knee ; S. Iohn Euangelist and three other persons standing , or kneeling by , with weeping faces and most sad lookes ; it s one of the most moueing peeces that I euer beheld . Then the picture of the Assumption of our Lady in the Chappel , of the hand of Andrea del Sarto ; with a world of other most exquisit pictures . The little neate Oratory in this house , called the Oratory of the Great Dutchesse , curiously inlayd into flowers by polished stones of diuers colours ; that is , a whole closet of shineing marble inlayd into flowers , is the neatest little roome that euer I saw . In fine the little Grotte , and the Statue of Adonis made by the hand of Michel Angelo are much esteemed . 23. An other day we went to Pratolino a Villa of the Great Duke , some six milles distant from Florence . Here we saw in the garden , excellent Grotts , Fountains , water works , Shady walks , groues and the like , all vpon the side of a hill . Here you haue the Grotte of Cupid with the wettings stooles , vpon which sitting downe , a great spout of water comes full in your face . The Fountain of the Tritons ouertakes you so too , and wassheth you soundly . Then being led about this garden where there are store of fountains vnder the Laurel trees , we were carried back to the grottes that are vnder the stairs , and saw there the seueral Giuochi d'aqua : as that of Pan striking vp a melodious tune vpon his mouth-organ at the sight of his Mistress , appearing ouer against him : that where the Angel carryes a trumpet to his mouth , and soundeth it ; and where the country clowne offers a dish of water to a serpent , who dinks of it , and lifteth vp his head when he hath drunck : that of the mill which seems to break and grind oliues : the paper mill : the man with the grinding stone : the Sarazins head gapeing and spewing out water : the grotte of Galatea who comes out of a dore in a sea chariot with two nymphes , and sayleth a while vpon the water , and so returnes again in at the same dore : the curious round table capable of twelue or fifteen men , with a curious fountain playing constantly in the midst of it , and places between euery trencher , or person , for euery man to set his bottle of wine in cold water : the Samaritan woman comeing out of her house with her buckets to fetch water at the fountain , and hauing filled her buckets , returns back againe the same way : in the mean time you see smiths thumping ; birds chirping in trees ; mills grinding : and all this is done by water , which sets these little inuentions a worke and make them moue as it were of themselues : in the meane time an organ playes to you while you dine there in Fresco at that table , if you haue meat . Then the neat bathing place : the pillar of petrifyed water : and lastly the great Pond and Grotta before the house , with the huge gyant stooping to catch at a rock , to throw it at heauen : This gyant is so big , that within the very thigh of him , is a great grotte of water , called the Grot of Thotis and the shell fishes , all spouting out water . 24. I went also to Lampeggio a Villa some fiue miles distant from Florence , belonging to Prince Matthias . It s curiously adorned with pictures , especialy battles of the hand of Tempesta . Here I saw a curious cabinet of Corall and enamelled worke . The fine Giuoco di Mecha , or Turkish play . The curious glasses ; & little Armory . 25. Returning to the towne againe , we sawe the Great Dukes stables full of excellent well maneged horses . 26. Neare to the stables stands the serraglio where the wild beasts are kept , which they make fight often against one another . Here I saw Lyons , Leopards , Tygers , Beares , Woolfs , wild boares and foxes , all which they can let out seueraly at the dores of their seueral denns , into a fair court to fight , and when they haue done , they can bring them back againe into their denns by a fearfull machine of wood made like a great Green Dragon , which à man within it rowles vpon weeles ; and holding out two lighted torches at the eyes of it , frights the fiercest beast thereby into his denn . The Prince and the Court in the mean time , standing high aboue may see the combats of these wild beasts with ease , and without danger . I haue read , that a Lyon here one escapeing out of this place by chance , and running vp and downe the streets , met at last ( all others flying into houses ) a little child , who had neither feare nor wit enough to retire ; and seazed vpon him . The mother of the child hearing in what case he was , ranne out presently , and casting her self vpon her knees with teares in her eyes , and humble postures of supplication , she moued so the Lyon to pitty , that he rendered her the child without hurting it , or the mother of it . 27. I sawe also here diuers Pallaces of noblemen vpon occasion of their Festine . For it is the custome here in winter , to inuite the chief Ladyes of the towne ( marryed women onely ) to come to play at cards in winter euenings for three or four hours space ; and this one night in one pallace , another night in another pallace . Thither the Ladyes go , and finde the house open to all comers and goers both Ladyes and gentlemen , that are of any garbe . In euery chamber the dores are set open , and for the most part you shall see eight , or ten chambers on a floore , going out of one an other , with a squar table holding eight persons , as many chairs , two syluer candlesticks with waxe lights in them , and store of lights round about the roome . At the houre appointed , company being comne , they sit downe to play , a Caualier sitting between euery Lady , and all the women As fine in clothes and iewels , as if they were going to a Ball. The dores of all these roomes being open , the light great , the women glittering , and all glorious , you would take these pallaces to be the enchanted Pallaces of the Old King of the Montains . Any gentleman may come into these pallaces and stand behinde the gamesters , and see both how modestly they play , and how little they play for . In the mean time ther 's a side chamber alwayes open for gentlemen to go in to , and refresh themselues with wine standing in snow , or with limonade , or some such cooling drinks , which are also offered to the Ladyes . In a great roome bellow , at the entrance of the pallace , there is a long table for gamesters that loue to play deep , that is , that loue to play onely for money . The Florentins enioying by the goodness and wisdome of their excellent Princ , the fruits of peace , haue many other recreations , where the people passe their time chearfully and think not of rebellion by muttering in corners . For this reason , both in winter , and sommer , they haue their seueral diuertisments . In winter their Giuoco di Calcio ( a play something like our football , but that they play with their hands ▪ ) euery night from the Epiphany till Lent , with their Principi di Calcio . This being a thing particular to Florence , deserues to be described . The two factions of the Calcio , the Red , and the Green , choose ecih of them a Prince , some yong Caualier of a good purse . These Princes being chosen , choose a world of Officers , and lodge , for the time , in some great pallace ; where they keep their courts , receiue Embassadors from one another , and giue them publik audience in state , send poste to one another , complaine of one anothers subiects , & take prisoners from one another ; heare their counsellers one after another , disswadeing from , or perswadeing to warre ; giue orders for setling their affairs at home , heare the complaints of their subiects , ieere their enemy Princes in embassyes ; and at last resolue to , fight , with proclayming warre . Dureing these serious treatyes which last for many nights the Secretaryes of state ( two prime witts ) read before their seueral Princes bills for regulating and reforming the abuses of their subiects ; and read openly petitions and secret aduises : in all which they ieere a world of people in the towne , and show prodigious wit. In fine , hauing spunn out thus the time till neare Carnauale , or shroftide , the two Princes resolue on a battle at Calcio , to be fought in the Piazza of Santa Croce , before the Great Duke and Court. Vpon the day apointed , the two Princes of the Calcio come to the place in a most stately Caualcata with all the yong noblemen and gentlemen of the towne , vpon the best horses they can finde , with scarfs , red , or green , about their Armes . Haueing made their seueral Caualcatas before the Great Dukes throne or scaffold , they light from their horses , and enter into the lists with trompets sounding before them , and accompanyed with a stately train , and with their combatants in their seueral liueryes . Hauing rancked themselues a prety distance one from the other , their standard bearers at sound of trumpet , carry both at once , their standards to the foot of the Great Dukes scaffold . This done , the Ball , or Ballon is throwne vp in the midst between them , and to it they go with great nimbleness , sleight , and discretion ; and sometimes they fall to it in deed and cuff handsomely : but vpon payne of death , no man must resent afterwards out of the lists , what euer happened here ; but all animosities arriseing here , end here too . At last , that side which throwes , or strikes the Ballon ouer the rayles of the other side , winns the day , and runns to the standards , which they carry away till night , at what time the conquering Prince enterteins them at a Festino di Ballo at Court , made to some Lady ; and where all his chief Officers and combatants dance alone with the Ladyes at the Ball , none els being permitted to dance with them that night . Besides these passtimes , they haue once a week , danceing at the Court from twelfth day till Lent , at which Balls , all the Ladies of the towne are inuited , to the number sometimes of two hundred , and these all marryed women , and all inuited by a particular ticket . Then their seueral Operas , or musical Drammata acted and sung with rare cost and arte . Lastly their publick running at the ring , or at the facchin , for a peece of plate . And in sommer , they haue their seueral danceing dayes , and their frequent Corsi di Palio vpon certain knowne days & for knowne prizes , and all before the good Prince , who countenanceth all these sports with his presence , thinking wisely , that ther 's lesse hurt in puplick mirth , then in priuate mutinyes : Hauing sayd thus much of Florence , I will now say something of the Court , the Gouerment , strength , Gentry , Riches , Interest , Language , and Learned men of this towne . For the Court it s clearly one of the best of Italy . Great riches make it looke plump , and giue it an excellent en bon point . The noble Pallace the Prince , his Title of Serenissimo , his Train and Retinew of noble Officers and gentlemen , his store of Pages , Palfreniers , Gards of Swissers with halbards , his Troupe of horse wayting vpon him , make this Court appeare splendid . The Duke himself also who makes this Court , makes it a fine Court. His extraordinary Ciuility to stangers , made vs think our selues at home there . He is now aboue fifty , and hath a Austrian looke and lip , which his mother Magdalena of Austria Sister to the Emperour Ferdinand the II. lent him . He admits willingly of the visits of strangers , if they be men of condition ; and he receiues them in the midst of his audience chamber standing ; and will not discourse with them , till they be couered too . It s impossible to depart from him disgusted , because he pays your visit with as much wit as ciuility : and hauing enterteined you in his chamber with wise discourse , he will entertein you in your owne chamber too with a regalo of dainty meats , and wines , which he will be sure to send you . The Great Dutchesse too is an other main pillar of this Court. She is of the house of the Duke of Vrbin , once a Souerain Prince in Italy , but now extinct in her Father who was the last Duke : and she had been souerain of that Dutchy , had she been of the Souerain sexe : but what nature refused her in sexe , it hath giuen her in beauty , and so made her a greater souerain , euen of Florence . In a word , Florence the Faire , was neuer so faire , as was the faire Dutchesse of Florence when I saw her first . Of her the Great Duke hath two sonnes . Cosmus the Prince of Toscane hath married one of the Daughters of the late Duke of Orlians . Hee is a great Traueller and hath visited most of the Princes courts of Christendome . The name of this family is Medices ; a family which h●ah giuen to the Church four Popes , and to France two Queens . This family is ancient , and came first out of Athens . It was alwayes considerable dureing the Republick of Florence , but farr more since it hath got the start of all the other families to farre , as to become their Souerain . The beginning of the greatness of this family came from Cosmus Medices surnamed Pater Patriae . This man being very rich and of a liberal mind , spent four hundred thousand crownes in publick and priuate buildings , and one hundred thousand crownes more in loane monyes to the poore citizens . These generous actions which should haue got him the loue of all men , purchased him the hatred of some of the great ones , who accuseing him of affecting Souerainty , raysed a strong faction against him . The heads of this faction where Rinaldo Albizzi , Pala Strozzi , Ridolfo Peruzzi , and Nicolo Barbadori . These men corrupting the suffrages of the Senate , caused Cosmus to be clapt vp , with an intention to take away his life . Cosmus in prison , fearing poyson , abstained from meats four dayes together , and dyed almost for feare of being killed : At last hee was rescued from this melancholy humor by his honest keeper ; who gaue him such assurances , that he should not be poysoned , that he tooke meat againe , and kept in his vital breath which was almost come to his lips . Then his keeper ( not content to be half courterous ) haueing recouered his body , stroue to recouer his mind too , which was sore spent with feares and melancholy ; and for this purpose , brought vnto him the buffon of Bernardo Guadagni then Confaloniero , The chief Magistrate of the Republick , who with his witty ieasts , so cheared him vp with mirth , that he began not onely to think of liuing againe , but also of getting out from thence , that he might liue long . To this end he works with the buffon to carry a promise in writeing from him to the Confaloniero , of 1000 crownes of gold , vpon condition he would free him . The buffon vndertakes it , and money takes with the Confaloniero , who vnder pretence of examining the cause to put him to death , finds him onely worthy of bānishment ; to which he condemns him ; and the place of his banishment was Venice . This was it that he desired . For being at Venice , he wrought so well by Freinds with the people , that loued him , that he was restored againe to his country , and got the title of Pater Patriae by a publick decree . By this title his family grew into that esteem , that it ouertopt the rest , and in time wrought it self into Souerainty . For the Gouerment of Florence , it is now Monarchical , and despotical , the Great Dukes will being absolute ; all great businesses passing through his knowledge and likeing : so that he wants nothing of a King , but the name ; and that too he almost hath vnder the name of Great Duke . As for the Strength of this State ; it hath 20 Episcopal cittyes ; 500 litle walled townes ; strong Forts on the confines : and can make an army of forty thousand foot , three thousand horse , twelue Gallies , two Galleasses , two Galleonies , and twenty ships of warre . For the Gentry , it is a Gentry dyed in graine , that is , it s both witty , and rich . The subtil ayre of this country , and the Academy of the Crusca haue sharpened them into much wit : and their good husbandry , and vnder-hand traffick hath put them notably into purse . For they think it no disgrace to haue a banco at home , and meet dayly at the exchange about traffick and trayding ; while their wifes Lady it in coach with their hansome liueries . This makes them hold vp their nobility by the chinn , and not onely preserues their familyes from sinking ; but rather makes them swime in a full sea of honour : they being enabled thereby to buy great offices for their children in other courts , whereby they often make them mount to the highest dignityes : when they are there , no man reproches vnto them the way they tooke to come thither , whether by water , or Land ; by traffick , or by the sword ; by the schoole-booke , or count-booke . If the French gentry would follow this way , they might haue shoos and stockings for their children ( which some of them want in the country ) where with to keep their noble blood warme in winter . For the Riches of this Prince , they are about a million and a half of Piastri , or crownes . These are his annual reuenews ; besides his iewels ; forfeitures ; and his Datij : which last , are of vast profit to him . The Interest of this Prince is much Austrian , and consequently Spanish : yet not so farre , as to break with France , to which he opens his ports and passages for his owne sake . He loues to haue no warre in Jtaly , because he hath something to loose : and though he loue to haue the Pope his freind , yet he cares not for hauing any of his subiects Pope . A Pope of his family , Clement the VII , hauing made him what he is , he is affrayd a Pope of some other Florentin family would striue to make him what he was . As for the Language of Florence its pure , but in their books , not in their mouths : They do so choke it in the throat , that it s almost quite drownd there ; nor doth it recouer it self againe till it come to Rome , where Lingua Toscana in bocca Romana is a most sweet language . The Academy of the Crusca hath much contributed to the enriching of this language with choice words . The rich Dictionary made by this famous company , and called from them , the Crusca , was forty yeares in compileing , but it will be in vogue as long as men shall speak Italian . Finally , for the Learned men of of this towne in later times , they are these ; Marsilius Ficinus the Christian Platonick ; Dante and Petrarck in Poëtry : Guicciardin in History : Poggio in raillery : Vesp●cius in Geography : Accursius in law : Michel Angelo in painting : Ioannes Casa in practical morality : Naclantus in diuinity : Galilaeo in Astronomy : Doni , Luigi , Alemanni , and others in belle lettere . He that desires to know the History of Florence , let him read Giouanne Villani , Matthaeo Villani , Scipione Ammirato , and the life of Gran Cosimo . Hauing thus seen faire Florence , we desired to see Ligorne , and make an excursiue iourney by Pistoia , Lucca , and Pisa . Pistoia is an ancient towne in a plain country . Of this towne is Clement the IX , this present Pope , of the ancient Family of Rospigliosi : ād that is all I can say of it . For it looks baldly of it , either out of pure old age , els by reason of our neighbourhood to Florence , which hath fleeced it , or which I rather think , by reason of its ciuil factions heretofore , which almost ruined it quite . Lucca is a prety little Commonwealth , and yet it sleeps quietly within the bosome of the Great Dukes State. But that State may wisely feare none , which no State feares ; and the great Duke is vnwilling to measure his sword , or take vp the cudgels against little Lucca , least the world should cry shame vpon him , and bid him meddle with his match . This little Republick looked in my eye , like a perfect mapp of old Rome ▪ in its begining . It s Gouerned by a Confaloniero and the gentry . The great Counsel consists of 160 citizens who are changed euery yeare . It s vnder tho Emperors protection ; and it hath about thirty thousand souls in it . Approching vnto it , it looked like a pure low-country towne , with its brick walls , large ramparts set round with trees , and deep moates round about the walls . It hath eleuen bastions , well garded by the townesmen , and well furnished with Cannōs of a large sise . The towne is three miles in compasse ; it hath thirty thousand muskets , or half muskets in its Arsenal , eight thousand pikes , two thousand brest peeces of musket proof , and store of great artillery . The whole State , for a need , can arme eighteen thousand men of seruice , and it hath about fiue hundred thousand French liures a yeare . It was in this towne that Caesar , Pompey , and Crassus met , and agreed among themselues that all things in Rome should passe as they pleased . The chief things to be seen here are , The Cathedral , called S. Martins , whose Bishop hath the ensignes of an Archbishop , to wit , the vse of the Pallium , and the Crosse ; and whose Canons in the Quire weare a rochet and Camail , and miters of silk like Bishops . 2. The towne house , or Senate house , where the Confaloniero liues dureing the time of his charge . 2. The Church of S. Frediano belonging to the Canon Regulars , where , in a Chappel on the left hand , is the Tombe of S. Richard King of England , who dyed here in his pilgrimage to Rome . 4. The Augustins Church , where is seen a hole where the Earth opened to swallow vp a blaspheming gamester . Of this towne was Pope Lucius the III. the two famous men of this towne , the one for soldiery , the other for learning , were , braue Castrucio , and Sanctes Pagninus a great Hebrician . There are fiue townes more belonging to Lucca , to wit , Ca-magior , Viareggia , Montignoso , Castilione , and Minucciano . From Lucca we went to Pisa , some ten miles off . This was once the head towne of a florishing Republick , and then the Numantia of Florence , and scorning its yoke : but now it croucheth to it . It stands in no very good ayre , and therfore hath been vexed with diuers plagues . The grasse in the streets of this Vniuersity , read me this lecture , and I beleeued it . Wherupon I resolued to stay here one day onely , in which time I saw . 1. The Domo , whose Canons officiate in Scarlate like Cardinals . This is a neat Church for structure , and for its three brazen dores historyed with a fine basso rilieuo . It s built after la maniera Tedescha , a fashion of building much vsed in Italy four or fiue hundred yeares ago , and brought in by Germans or Tedeschi , sayth Vasari . 2. Neare to the Domo stands , ( if leaning may be called standing ) the bending Tower , so artificialy made , that it seems to be falling , and yet it stands firme : Ruituraque semper , stat ( mirum ) moles . 3. On the other side of the Domo , is the Campo Santo a great square place cloistered about with a low cloister curiously painted . It● called the Campo Santo , because therein is conserued the Holy earth brought from Hierusalem in 50 Gallies of this Republick , an . 1224. These Gallies were sent by the Republick of Pisa , to succour the Emperour Aenobarbe , in the Holy Land ▪ but hearing of his death when they came thither , they returned home againe loaden with the earth of the Holy Land , of which they made this Campo Santo . 4. Some good Colledges there are but vnfrequented then by reason of a late plague : none running faster from the plague then schollers , especialy when it comes neare to the schools . 5. The publick Library is much enriched with the accession of Aldus Manutius his Library . 6. The garden of Simples may be rare , but wee not vnderstanding this hearbe language : hastened to the house of the Knights of S. Steuen . 7. This is the onely Order of Knighthood that I perceiued in Florence ; and it s very common . They weare a red crosse of satin vpon their cloaks ; and professe to fight against the Turks . For this purpose they haue here a good house , and maintenance . Their Church is beautifyed without with a hansome faciata of white marble ; and within with Turkish Ensignes and diuers Lanterns of capitanesse gallies . In this house the Knights liue in common , and are well maintained . In Their Treasory they shew you a great buckler all of Pearle and Diamonds , wonn in a battle against the Turks . Indeed bucklers of Diamonds , do but show our enemyes where we are , and what they may hope for by killing vs. They haue in their Cancellaria , a Catalogue of those Knights who haue done notable seruice against the Turks ; which serues for a powerfull exhortation to their successors , to do , and dy brauely . In fine , these Knights may marry if they will , and liue in their owne particular houses , but many of them choose celibate , as more conuenient for braue soldiers : wifes and children being the true impedimenta exercitûs . Heretofore , during the great disorders of the Guelfs and the Gibelins , Anno 1282 , this towne was gouerned by Vgolin a proud man , who ruled here despotically . This man inuiteing one day all his friends to a great feast , began in the midst of it to brag , that nothing was wanting to him : yes ( sayd on of his best friends , because on who flattered him not ) ther 's one thing yet wanting to thee , Vgolin , to-wit , the Anger of God , which is not farre from thee . And it proued true , for presently after , the Gibelins russhing into the pallace of Vgolin ( chief of the Guelfs ) killed in his sight one of his sonns and his nephew , and taking him with two other of his sonns and three nephews they shut him vp in a strong Tower , and threw the Keys into Arno : where the poore man that braged euen now in a feast , dyed soon after of hunger ; hauing first seen his children and nephews dye of hunger in his armes . A rare example to teach proud men , that ther 's often but one day between a powerfull man , and a poore man : between a great Feast , and a great Fast . Here in Pisa were called two Councils , the one 1409. the other 1511. From Pisa we went to Ligorne , ( Portus Liburnus in Latin ) through a pleasant forrest . This is the onely hauen the Great Duke hath ; and the mouth which letteth in that food which fatteneth this State. We stayd not long here , the season pressing vs to be gone , and this towne , being soone seen . For the towne it s but little , yet one of the neatest hauen townes a man can see . Heretofore it was not sufferable by reason of the bad ayre ; but since Ferdinan the first built it a new , and dryed vp the neighboring Fenns ( gathering much of the water into a cut channel , which goes from hence to Pisa , and carryes great boats ) the towne is twice as wholesome , and thrice as rich as it was . The things I saw in this towne were these . 1. The Mole which shutts vp the hauen . 2. The Lanterne which with seauen lights guides in ships in the night , 3. The Hauen it self where ships lye safe , and the little hauen within that , which serues for a withdrawing roome to the great hauen , where the Gallyes retire themselues . 4. The statue of Ferdinand the first in marble , with the Statues in bronze of four slaues at his feet . These are the 4 slaues that would haue stolne away a galley and haue rowed here themselues alone ; but where taken in their great enterprize . 5. The Greek Church . 6. The Castle . 7. The Tower in the Sea where they keepe gunpowder . 8. The Iews Synagogue . 9. Two windmills which are rare things in Italy , and therefore must haue a place here among the rarityes of this towne . I found not any Academy of wits here , nor any records of any learned men of this towne . All the Latin here is onely , Meum , and Tuum , and their wits are exercised here , how to make good bargins , not good Bookes . Indeed what should the Muses do here amongst the horrible noyse of chaines , of carts , of balling Sea men , of clamorous porters , and where the slaues of Barbary are able to fright all learning out of the towne with their lookes , as all Latin with their Language . Yet I must confesse , they study here belle Lettere : for if the true belle Lettere bee Letters of exchange , your marchand here , if you present him a Letter of exchange from his correspondent , will read it ouer , and ouer againe , and study vpon it , before he giue you the contents of it in money . Hauing finished this excursiue journey , we returned againe to Florence ; and hauing rested our horses a day or two , we tooke a new rise from thence to Rome which seemed to becken en vs , and whither the main torrent of our curiosity hurryed vs. Some three miles Beyond Florence we passed vnder a Monastery of Carthusians seated vpon a round hill ; whose seueral celles and little gardens ( walled about ) branching out on all sides , like seuerall Bastions , made this Monastery looke like a spiritual Fort , or deuout Cittadel . From hence passing through san : Cassiano we arriued at night at Poggi-Bonzi a little towne famous for perfumed Tobacco in powder , which the Italians and Spaniards take farre more frequently then we , as needing neither candle nor tinderboxe to light it withall ; nor vseing any other pipes , then their owne noses . From Poggi-Bonzi we came at dinner to Siena . This is the second towne of the Florentin State. It was heretofore a powerfull Republick commanding threescore miles into the country , and now and then , beating the Florentins : but a last , after much strugling , this woolf receiued the muzzle , and Siena is now the humble seruant of Florence . This happened an● 1555. This towne is seated in a very wholesome ayre and soyle , and therefore much frequented by strangers . It s called Senae in Latin from the Senones , people of Gaule , who comeing into Italy with Brennus , built this towne . The streets are all paued with bricks set vp edgeway , which makes the towne alwayes dry and neat . It s built high and low , with many high towers in it , built anciently in honour of its well deseruing citizens who had done some special seruice in the Republick ; and this makes it seen thirty miles off on Romes side . The people here are very ciuil , and euen sociable too ; which together with the good ayre , the good exercises for gentlemen , the good language , and the great priuiledges , make many strangers draw bridle here , and sommer it at Siena , the Orleans of Italy . The prime things I saw here were these . 1. The Domo , one of the neatest Cathedrals of Italy , though it be built a la maniera Tedescha . It s all of black and white marble within and without . The Fontispice is carued curiously and set thick with statues . Yet it wants a larger piazza before it , to giue it its full grace . The inside of this Church is very takeing . Vnder the roof immediatly runns a row of white marble-heads of all the Popes till this time . The Pauement is the best in the world ; and indeed too good to be trode on ; hence they couer a great part of it with bords hansomely layd together , yet easy to be taken vp , to show strangers the beauty of it : It s of marble inlayd into pictures , and those very great ones : seueral great marbles of seueral colours makeing the shadows and the lights , and composeing all together such a new kind of Mosaick worke , as all men admire , but none dare finish . This worke was begun by Duccio Sanese , and afterwards carryed on by Domenico Beccafumi , but not finished by him , sayth Vasari . They told me here that is was Meccharini , that made this pauement ; but I had rather beleeue Vasari . That part which they vncouered for vs , represented the history of Abraham going to sacrifice his sonn Isaac ; and the history of the Machabees ; and the like . I confesse , I scarce saw any thing in Italy which pleased me better then this pauement . On the left hand ( within the Church ) stands the Library painted with a rare Fresco which is yet rauishing and liuely after two hundred yeares : Indeed the braue actions of Aeneas Syluius ( afterwards Pope Pius II ) which these pictures represent , deserue to be painted by the sun beames . The pictures are of the hand of Pietro Perugino , Raphaels Master : but when all 's done , giue me bookes in a Library , not pictures . In the Church you see the statues of Alexander the III , of Pius II , of Paulus V , & of Alexander the VII . all Popes , and natiues of Siena . 2. I sawe here the seueral places which S. Katharine of Siena had made famous by her deuotions : as , her Chamber , where she receiued the holy stigmats , now turned into a Chappel : the Chamber where she liued : with other memorials of her deuotions , in the Dominicans Church ; where they also shew her head , and finger : her body being transferred to Rome , and lyeing in a little Chappel within the Sacristy of the Dominicans , at the Minerua . 3. The other things ordinarily showne here , are the great Hospital : the house of Pius II , of the family of the Piccolomini : the great Piazza : the pillar with the woolf of brasse vpon it : the marble Pillar as you come into the towne from Florence , with the armes of the Empire and of Portugal vpon it ; because here it was , that the Emperour met Eleonora of Portugal and marryed her in presence of Aeneas Syluius then Archbishop here , and afterwards Pope Pius II. I saw here the Academy of wits called gli Intronati : why they should take that ambitious name I knowe not , vnlesse it be in reference to the saying of à Philosopher , who sayd , that then finally kingdomes should be happy , when either Philosophers should be chosen Kings , or Kings playd the Philosophers . Indeed Aristotle holds that they that are strong of body , are made to serue , and tug at the oare of commands : and they that are strong in wit , are borne by nature to sit at the helme , and command others . 5. This towne hath furnished the Church with a General Council of a hundred and thirty Bishops , called by Nicolas the III : with three great Saints , S. Bernardin reformer of the Minorits ; S. Katharine the holy Virgin ; and Beatus Colombanus Institutor of the Order of the Iesuati , a man of great learning and Sanctity : with fiue good Popes , to wit , Alexander the III of the house of Bandinelli ; Pius II , of the house of Piccolomini ; Paulus V , of the house of Burgesi ; and Alander the VII , of the house of Chisi : And in fine , it hath furnished the world with two champions in learning Ambrosius Politi ( or Catharinus ) who wrote learnedly against Luther and Erasmus ; and Adriano Politi who wrote against Ignorance by his learned Dictionary . He that would know in particular the history of Siena , let him read Orlando Maleuolto . From Siena we went to Bon Conuento , Tornieri , San Quirico , inconsiderable places vpon the rode , and so to Radicofino a strong Castle vpon a high hill built by Desiderius King of the Longobards . This is the last place of the Florentin state , but not the least in strength . Dineing here at the Great Dukes Inn at the bottom of the hill , we went to lodge at Aquapendente , which is some 12 miles off , and the first towne of the Popes state . This towne stands vpon a hill , from which the waters trickling downe softly are sayd to hang there , and giue it the name of Aquapendente . Of late this towne is made a Bishops Seate by the Demolition of Castro , and the remooual of the Bishops Seat from thence hither , which happened vpon this occasion . Castro was a towne belonging to the Duke of Parma , Thither Pope Innocent the X. sent a good Bishop to gouerne that flock ; but the Bishop vpon his arriual being killed there , the Pope sent Conte Vidman ( General then of the Church ) with order to demolish Castro ; and he himself transfered the Bishops seat from thence to Aquapendente , and all this according to the Canon law , which ordains , that that Citie which kills its Bishop should be depriued of the Bishops seat euer after . From Aquapendente we came to a little towne called San Lorenzo , and not long after , to Bolsena , anciently called Vrbs Volsinensium . Here it was that happened the famous Miracle in confirmation of the Real presence of Christs body and blood in the Blessed Sacrament , which happened an 1263 , and which gaue occasion to Pope Vrban the IV to command that the Feast of Corpus Christi should be kept holyday euer after . The Miracle is related by Leandro Alberti the Camden of Italy , and by learned Onuphrius Panuinus in the life of Vrban the IV. We passed also that morning by the side of the Lake of Bolsena ; in the midle of which is a little Iland in which Amalasuinta Queen of the Ostrogoths , a woman of singular parts , was miserably murthered by her nearest kinred . Here 's also a little Conuent of Capucins . Hauing passed along this Lake a great while , we entered at last into a wood called anciently Lucus Volsinensium , and now , Bosco Helerno . It was formerly a dangerous passage for Bandits : but now its free from danger , since Sixtus Quintus purged the Ecclesiastical State of that Vermin , by makeing a Law , that whosoeuer should bring in the head of a Bandit , should haue pardon , impunity , & recompence too of some hundred crownes , wher vpon the Bandits soone destroyed one another . From this wood we soone came to Montefiascone standing vpon a hill . It s a Bishops Seat , and famous for excellent Muscatello wine ; and this wine is famous for hauing killed a Dutchman here who drunk too much of it . The story is true , and thus . A Dutchman of cōdition traueling through Italy , sent his man before him alwayes , with a charge to looke out in the Inns were the best Wine was , & there write vpon the Wall of the Inn the word , EST , that is to say , Here it is . The seruant comeing hither a little before his Master , and finding the wine excellently good , wrote vpon the Wall EST , EST , EST , signifying thereby the superlatiue goodness of this wine . The Master arriues , lookes for his Mans hand-writing ; and finding three ESTS , is ouer ioyed . In he goes , and resolues to lye there ; and he did so indeed : for here he lyes still ; buryed first in wine , and then in his graue . For drinking too much of this good wine , he dyed here , and was buryed by his seruant in a Church here below the Hill , with this Epitaph vpon his Tombe , made by the same seruant , Propter EST , EST , EST , herus meus mortuus est . It was here also , that the gallantry of the braue Roman General Camillus appeared very much . For while he was besieging this towne , called then P●aliscum , or Phalerii , a treacherous schoolmaster hauing brought vnto him the chief of the yong youths of the towne , whom he had deceitfully drawne vnto the Roman Camp , vnder pretence of takeing the ayre a broad : by which means Camillus might haue frighted their Parents to an vnworthy rendition : the braue Roman who scorned to ouercome by any other way then that of Gallantry , caused the schoole master to bee stripped & his hands to be tyed behind his back , and to be led into the towne againe , with the little youths whipping him as he went , till he had brought them home againe . This nobleness of Camillus tooke the towne presently , because it tooke with the townesmen ; who admireing the Romans Generosity , submitted willingly to Camillus , who had chosen rather to take towns By this owne Valour , then by other mens iniquity : Indeed ( as Valerius Maximus sayth ) it did not become Rome built by the sonn of Mars , to take towns otherwise then Martially . From Montesiascone we went downe the Hill by an easie descent vnto Viterbo . This is an Episcopal Seat , standing in a wholesome ayre , and therefore called Viterbium , as it where , Vita Vrbium . Here are excellent fountains of water , and store of them : but its pitty none of them runn with good wine , to make a mends for the bad , which are most of them Vini cotti . The two factions here of the Gatti & the Maganesi ( these standing for the Vrsini , those for the Colonnesi ) ruined heretofore Viterbo ouer & ouer againe . In the Domo there are the tombes of 4 Popes , as also in the Franciscans Church some tombes of Popes , and of S. Rosa : you see the body of that Saint yet entire though buryed aboue 100 years ago . She lyes along in her tombe , and is seen by the drawing of a curtain from before her . Here 's an Academy of wits called Gli Ostinati , to shew perchance , that a man cannot be learned without obstinate labour and paynes . Hence the Poët makes his learned man to be one who multum sudauit & alsit : and Persius tells vs , that his delight was to grow pale with obstinate night study : Velle suum cuique est &c. At me nocturnis juuat impallescere chartis . About a mile from Viterbo stands a neat Church and Conuent called Madonna del Querco , and as farre againe beyond that , à fine house with a garden of water works and Fountains , worth seeing . From Viterbo ( being vpon our owne horses ) we went to see Caprarola a stately House belonging to the Duke of Parma . The house is held to be one of the finest in Italy for Architecture . Its stands a little out of the trauelers rode , but not of his way : for it s much in a mans way to see such a louely house as this . It stands vpon the side of a hill , and from one of the Balconies it shews you Rome some two and thirty miles off . It s built in a Pentagone ( if I remember well ) without , and round within . The chambers for all that , are square , and well proportioned . The chief of these chambers are painted by the hand of Pietro Orbista , flourishing thus vpon the noble actions of Paulus III. Among the other chambers , the whispering chamber is curious : for four men here standing each one in one of the four corners of this great chamber , heare distinctly what any of them whispers in a low tone in his corner , their faces being turned to the wall ; and yet those that stand in the midst of the chamber cannot heare it . The other chamber is no lesse curious where standing in the midst of it , and stamping hard with your foot , those that are without at the dore think they heare the cracks or reports of Pistols . The other roomes here also , as the kitchin all of one stone , the low Caue also with the pillar in it , cut likewise out of a rock , and bearing vp the whole pauement of the round court which lets light into this Caue by diuers round grates of iron , are worth the beholding : Then the Garden vpon the Hillside with the great variety of waterworks , grottes , and wetting sports , are all curious things . Hauing walked this garden about , you l deserue after so much water , a little wine , which will not be wanting to you from the rare cellar lyeing vnder the great Terrasse before the house : and perchance you l think the wineworks here as fine as the waterworks . From Caprarola we fell into our way againe at Monterosa , from whence passing by Bacano , and the Hosteria del Storto , we came at night to Rome . All the way from Monterosa to Rome almost , belonged anciently to the Veientes ( so called , sayth Berosus , from their carrying about with them in carts , all their goods ) Neare to Bacan is a lake out of which runns the riuer Varca , anciently called Cremera , neere vnto which the Veientes killed in one battle , three hundred Fabii , that is , the whole family of the Fabii ( who had vowed themselues to death for the commonwealths seruice ) except one little boy not able to beare armes , from whom Fabius Maximus , The terrour of Hannibal , and Romes buckler descended . Vpon this rode also stood anciently the towne Veii , a towne which held out tenn sommers against the Romans , and stood in need of no lesse man then Camillus to take it . This towne was once so great , that Rome being destroyed almost by the Gauls , the Senators held a consultation in the Comitium , whether they should retire to Veii , and leaue Rome quite , or rebuild againe Romes walls : but during this consultation , the troops returning out of garrison arriued by chance into the Comitium , where the Centurion entring , and not thinking the Senators had been there , cryed out to the Standardbearer , Signifer Statue signum , hic optime manebimus : which words the Senators hearing , cryed out to one an other ; Accipimus omen ; and presently layd aside all further thought of retireing to Veii . Some twelue miles before we came to Rome , we saw the Cupola of S. Peters Church , and were as glad to see it a farre off , as the weary Troians in Aeneas his company , were glad to see Jtaly after so much wandering . Some few houres after , hauing passed by an old tombe , which some call Neros Tombe , and ouer the Ponte Molo ( of which more in my 2. part ) we entred into Rome by the Via Flaminea , and Porta del Populo . The end of the First Part. THE VOYAGE OF ITALY : OR A COMPLEAT IOVRNEY THROVGH ITALY . THE SECOND PART WITH THE CHARACTERS OF THE People , and the description of the chief Townes , Churches , Monasteries , Tombes , Libraries , Pallaces , Villas , Gardens , Pictures , Statues , Antiquities : AS ALSO OF THE INTEREST , Gouerment , Riches , Force , &c. of all the Princes . By RICHARD LASSELS Gent. Opus posthumum : Corrected & set forth by his old friend and fellow Traueller S. W. PRINTED AT PARIS By VINCENT DV MOVTIER , M.DC.LXX . THE SECOND PART OF THE VOYAGE OF ITALY . BEING arriued at Rome , we lodged in an Inn for three , or four days , till we had found out , and furnished , a house to our satisfaction . That done I began presently my Inquest , and made Hue and Cry after euery little thing which time seemed to haue robbed vs of . But as we approach not to great persons in Italy without informing our selues first of their titles ; that we may know how to stile them : so before . I bring my Reader acquainted with Rome , I think it not a misse to tell him how this great Citie is comonly called . And although Rome were anciently stiled the Head , and Mistresse of the world ; an Earthly Goddesse ; The Eternal Citie ; The Compendium of the World ; The Common Mother , and Nurce of all Vertues ; ( while she was yet Heathen ; ) Yet sinc hir Ladyship was Baptized and became Christian ( though she haue had great Elogies made of her by the Holy Fathers , ) I find no Title so honorable to hir as that of Roma la Santa , Rome the Holy ; which is giuen hir by the Common Prouerb ; and common Prouerbs are nothing else but the obseruation of common Sense : For wheras the other Cities of Italy are Prouerbially called either Faire , Gentile , Rich , Proud , Fatte , or Great ; as Florence , Naples , Venice , Genua , Bologna , Milan ; Rome only is stiled the Holy : and this deseruedly , for many reasons . First , For being the Seat of Christs Vicar vpon Earth , S. Peter and his Successors , to the number of 240 and odd Popes . 2. For hauing been watered at the rootes by the preaching and blood of the two glorious Apostles S. Peter and S. Paul. Which made S. Leo , speaking to Rome of these two great Apostles , make her this Apostrophe . Hi sunt qui te ad hanc gloriam prouexerunt , vt gens sancta , populus electus , ciuitas Sacerdotalis & Regia , per sacram Beati Petri sedem caput orbis effecta , latius praesideres religione diuina quam dominatione terrena . 3. For hauing been looked vpon in all ages , as the Center of Catholick Communion : and the place where the Matrix and Radix Ecclesia , the Mother Church and the Radical Church ( as S. Cyprian calls hir ) did flourish alwayes . 4. For hauing been washed and purged in the blood of so many thousand Martyrs in the primitiue times , which euen baptized Rome a new , and made it be called by Holy Fathers Nona Sion : a New Sion . 5. For hauing so many Saints bodyes lyeing in its Churches ; and so many Churches within its precincts , which are aboue there hūdred in all . 6. For hauing been the happy occasion of conuerting most of the Nations of Europe , and many others out of Europe , vnto the faith of Christ , by Prachers sent from thenc . 7. For haueing been the Depositary ( as S. Irenaeus calls her ) of the Holy Apostolical Traditions and doctrine , which haue alwayes been conserued in her Church . 8. For hauing alwayes conserued the Symbole of the creed inuiolably ( saith S. Hierome ) and for neuer hauing runn in a by-channel of errour . Besides these foresayd reasons , Rome may deseruedly be called Holy , for the many & singular acts of Charity which are done there dayly more then in any other place . Charity is the Queen of Vertues ; and if euer I saw this Queen in her throne , it was in Rome . For there I saw no euil , either of body , or mind , but it had its remedy , if curable ; at least its comforts if incurable . For the first , to wit , Euils of body , it hath is Hospitals , and those many , and many of those are Hospitals in folio . Besides no Pilgrim comes to Rome , but he findes Rome , as Adam did Paradise , with the table couered , and bed made ready for him . Poore yong girles finde portions either for husbands or nunneries , according to their choice ; Infants whom cruel & vnlawfull mothers , like wolfes , expose to death , Rome receiues to life ; and thinks it but a sutable Antipelargesis to nurrish wolfes children , seing a shee wolfe nurrished her Founder being exposed by men . Fooles too and Madmen , so much the more miserable , as not being so much as sensible of their condition ( for saepe calamitatis solatium est nosse sortem suam ) haue here those that take care of them . Poore men finde Hospitals when they are sick ; and gentlemen , whom nature hath not exempted from common miseries , Rome exempts from common Hospitals ; and not being able to giue them better health , she giues them at least better accommodation in their sickness . Here you shall finde an Apothecaries shop , founded by Cardinal Francis Barberin with an yearly reuenue of twelue thousand crownes , and this for euer ; to furnish the poore with physick gratis . Here you shall finde the Hospital of the Holy Trinity which in the Jubily yeare of Clement the VIII , is found to haue treated at table in one day fifteen thousand pilgrims : and in the whole yeare fiue hundred thousand . The last Iubily yeare 1650 , I my self was present one day , when the sayd Hospital treated nine thousand Pilgrims that day : the Pope himself ( Jnnocent the Tenth ) and many of the Cardinals hauing been there to wash the feet of the pilgrims , and to serue them at table . Adde to this , that euery nation hath here its seueral Hospital and Refuge , with Church and Churchmen to serue it . As the English Colledge , once an Hospital for the English : That of the Anima , for the Germans : That of the S. Lewis , for the French : That of S. Iacomo , for the Spaniads : That of S. Antony of Padua , for the Portuguesi : That of S. Iulian for the Flemmings : That of S. Ambrose for the Lombards : That of S. Iuo for the Britons : That of S. Hierome for the Illyrians : That of S. Marie Egyptiaca for the Armenians : That of S. Stephano for the Hungarians : That of S. Stanislaus for the Polonians . Besides a world of others . Nay almost euery corporation or body of artisans haue their Hospital among themselues , which they maintaine . In the Church of the 12 Apost . they choose yearly 12 noblemen & one Prelat who is called their Prior : These go into every corner of Rome to seeke out poore men who are ashamed to beg , & yet are in great want . These bashfull poore men put their names into a coffer well locked vp and standing in a publick place , by which meanes these charitable noblemen finde them out and relieue them . What shall I say of the publick charity of the Pope himself well knowne to all ? Besides a world of priuate charities which he giues by his Secreto Limosini●ro to those that are ashamed to beg publickly . The like do many Cardinals by their owne hands ; and in that high measure , that Cardinal Montalto ( to name no more ) is found by his books of Accounts , to haue giuen away aboue a hundred and seuen thousand crownes to the poore . Of which pious Cardinal I cannot omit to write this following story , as I haue learned it from very good relation . A poore widdow of Rome mother of one onely daughter both yong and hansome , got her liuing honestly by her owne , and her daughters labour ; and rubbed out poorly , but yet honestly : Now it happened , that this widdow falling sick , and her daugther haueing enough to do to tend her , their wrork went on so faintly , and their gains came in so slowly , that at her recouery ▪ she found her purse as much spent , as her person . Whereupon being called on for the quarter rent of her chāber , and not knowing what to doe , she was aduised by her Confessarius to go to Cardinal Montalto ( who gaue publick audienc thric a week to all the poore in Rome ) and to beg as much of him , as would pay her little debt . Pressed therefore by her great necessity , & emboldened by the fame of the charity of this good Cardinal , she entred the pallace , and found him in his great hall , giuing care and almes to all those that could giue him a good account of their wants . In her turne she , and her yong daughter approached vnto him sitting at his tables end ; and expresing modesty her wants caused by her three months sickness , she humbly besought his Eminence , to giue her fiue crownes for to pay the rent of her chamber , and pacify her Landlord who otherwise threatened to put her out of dores . The Cardinal seeing as much modesty in her looks as sickness in her countenance ; and likeing well , that she did not go about to fright him into charity , by vrgeing the danger of being forced one day to expose her daughter to lewd courses ( a common Rhetorical figure of begars in all contryes ) wrote downe in a little paper , 50 crownes to be giuen to her ; and folding vp the paper , he bid her carry it to his seruant below at the entrance of the pallace , who kept the Cardinals bills and payed the contents of them . She did so with humble prayers of thankfulnesse ; and the seruant vpon sight of the paper , presently threw her out 50 crownes , and bid her make an acquittance for it . The poore woman seing 50 crownes counted out for her who had asked but 5 ; and fearing least the seruant vpon sight of her hansome daughter , might haue done this by way of bribery , told him smartly , that though she were poore , yet she was honest , and that she scorned to go by one corruption to an other . The honest seruant ciuily replyed , that he vnderstood not her words : nor I your deeds , sayd she , I asked the Cardinal 5 crownes , he granted me my request , and why then do you offer me 50 crownes ? The honest seruant , to shew his innocency , shews his masters hand writeing importing 50 crownes . Then your masters hand , sayd she , for haste , out shot his intentions : I asked him for 5 crownes , and more in conscience I cannot take . The seruant , though he knew his masters generosity , yet to take all scruple from the poore woman , locked vp his monye and papers , and desired the poore woman to go vp with him to the Cardinal againe , to cleare this doubt . The Cardinal hearing from his seruant the whole passage and that the poore woman was affrayd his hand had been mistaken in writeing 50 crownes instead of 5 ; t is true , sayd he , my hand was mistaken indeed ; and calling for his pen againe , as if he would haue corrected the cypher which made the bill 50 , he put in an other cypher , and so made it 500 crownes ; reading it now a lowd to his seruant and the poore woman ; commanding her to bestow her daughter with that money ; and if it where not enough , to come againe to him , and he would make it vp . A true Roman Charity . As for those Charityes which concerne the mind , if a Great King of Egypt wrote ouer his Library dore , Medicina Animi , Physick for the mind : here in Rome I finde store of such Physick in Libraryes , Colledges , Monasteries , and deuout companies . And first for Libraries ; you shall finde here ( beside the Libraries of euery Religious house ) the incomparable Library of the Vatican : ( of which more below ) those also of Cardinal Barberin ; of the Duke of Altemps ; that of the Sapienza ; and that of the Augustin● ; the last two being open to all men euery day , with a courteous gentleman to reach you any booke , and a learned Manuscript in folio adressing you to the authors that treat of any subiect you desire to be informed of , which affords great help to the painfull student . Then the Colledges and Seminaries of almost all nations where youths are both fed and bred vp in learning for nothing . Adde to this , the Variety of Monasterys and Conuents , both of men and women , where they may hide themselues securely donectranseat iniquitas . Then the taking away of yong girles , at ten or twelue yeares old , from their poore suspected mothers ; and the bringing them vp vertuously vnder carefull matrons of knowne Vertue , till they either choose the Nuptial Flammeum , or the sacred Velum . Then the Remedies for ill marryed women , whose vnaduised choyce ( marriages being often made for Interest ) or incompatible humours force to a corporal separation ▪ and least such vnfortunate women should either liue incontinently indeed , or giue suspicion of it they are prouided here with a house where they liue retiredly vnder Lock and Key , till they either reconcile themselues againe to their husbands ; or vpon iust occasions , leaue them for euer . Ouer the dore of this house is written , Per le donne mal maritate , Then the Conuent of Penitent whores ( that none may perish in Rome who haue a mind to be saued ) called Sancta Maria Magdalena in Corso ; where many of those poore Magdelens haue led such penetential liues ( as the bloody walls of their Celles , caused by their frequent disciplining , shewed to all Rome in a conflagration of that monastery ) that Paulus Quintus himself being informed of it , would needs be carryed thither , to see those bloody chambers from the street ; and hauing seen them , wept for ioye ; and I can scarce hold from cryeing out : O foelix culpa ! What shall I say of the Congregregation of Aduocats and Attorneis , instituted in Rome , where they meet once a week to examin poore mens law sutes ; and either dehort them from proceeding in bad causes ; or prosecute good causes for them at the cost of this Congregation ? What shall I say of seueral pious Clergy men ( especially the good Priests of the Oratory , happy in this employment , who make it their taske to reconcile disagreeing families , and with great zeale and piety exhorte first the one , then the other of the partyes , interuene between them , speake well of the one to the other , cleare and take away iealous misvnderstandings , and in fine , peece againe broken neighbors ? What shall I say of the four Sermons dayly in the Chiesa noua by the most learned and good Priest of the Oratory , who being most of them learned men , as Baronius , Bosius , Iustinianus , Renaldus &c and able to flye high , yet in their sermons stoup to a low pitch , and a popular facile way , which aymes rather at conuersion , then ostentation ; and doth great good , though it make little noyse ? Dominus in le●i aura . What shall I say of the weekly sermon to the Iewes vpon Saturday ; where they are bound to be present to the number of three hundred , and where the Pope entertains a learned Preacher to conuince them out of their owne scriptures ; and those that are conuerted , are prouided for in the Hospital of the Catechumens , till they be throughly instructed ? I haue seen diuers of them baptized . What shall I say of the Scholae piae in Rome , a company of good Religious men , who looke like Iesuits , saue onely that they go barefoot in sandals ? These good Fathers make a profession to teach poore boyes gratis their first grammar radiments , and to make them fit to bee sent to the Jesuits schools ; and hauing thaught them thus in the schools , they accompany them home in the streets , least they should either learne waggery as they go home , or practise it . Nay these humble men make it their profession not to teach higher schools , where there might be some profit and honour , at least some satisfaction and pleasure : but they content themselues to go bare foot , and teach onely the lower schools and first rudiments ; by which they neither grow wiser , nor richer : A strange mortifyed trade ; But Beati pauperes spiritu . What shall I say of the Fathers of the Agonizants , whose vocation is to be the Seconds of those who f●ght against death in self ; that is ▪ whose profession is , to assist those that are in the agonie of death ; and to help them to make then those pious Acts which Christians should most of all then rouze themselues vp to ? What can be sayd more ? yes Rome not content , to haue fed , to haue bred , to haue conuerted , baptized reconciled the liuing ; and assisted the dyeing ; she extends her charity euen beyond death it self , and hath institued a pious Confraternity called , La Compagnia de' Morti , whose office is to bury the dead , and to visit those that are condemned , and by praying with them , exhorting them , and accompanying them to the execution , help them to dye penitently , and bury them being dead , and pray for their souls being buryed ; After which , charity can do no more to man : and therefore I will conclude , that seing such singular acts of charity , both for body and minde , are practised no where so much as in Rome , its true which I assumed aboue , that Rome deserues to be called , The Holy. Haueing sayd thus much ●f the title of Rome , I will now , make my Reader better acquainted with her , by describing the particularyties which I obserued here . And that I may not ramble in writeing of Rome , as most men do in visiting of it , I will begin at the Bridg called now Ponte Angelo , and from thenc make the whole gyro of the Citie in order . Arriuing then at the Bridg called anciently Pons Aelius because it was built by the Emperor Aelius Adrianus , but now called Ponte Angelo , because it was vpon this Bridg that S. Gregory the Great saw an Angel vpon the Moles Adriani sheathing his sword after a great plague : here wee saw the stately new decoration of Iron worke with the twelue Marble statues set vpon it by this present Pope Clement the IX . and looking downe into the riuer on the left hand , wee saw the ruines of the Triumphal bridg . This bridg was called the Triumphal Bridge , because over it , Triumphs were accustomed to passe anciently to the Capitol . This made it so proud , that it scorned that any rustiks , or country fellowes , should passe ouer it ; and got a Decree of the Senate for that purpose . But pride will haue a fall ; and the proud Triumphal Bridg hath got such a great one , that ther 's but iust so much of it left , as to shew , where it was once ; so true is the saying of Ausonius , Mors etiam saxis nominibusque venit . At first the Romans were modest enough in their Triumphs , as in all other things : hence Camillus was content with four white horses in his Chariot ; but afterwards luxe and excesse banishing out of the Citie , old modesty , they began to striue who should be the most vaine in this point . Hence Pompey was drawne in triumph , by four Elephants ; Mark-Antony , by four Lyons ; Nero by four Hermaphrodites , which were all four both horses and mares : Heliogabulus by four Tygers ; Aurelianus by six staggs ; and Firmicus by eight Austridges . At the end the Ponte Angelo stands the Castel Angelo , so called because , as I sayd before , S. Gregory in a solemne Procession during the plague saw an Angel vpon the top of Moles Adriani sheathing his sword , to signify , that God's anger was appeased . Before this Miracle happened , it was called Moles Adriani because the Emperour Adrian was buryed here . It was built anciently in a round forme , of vast stones , going vp in three rowes , or storyes lesser and lesser , till you came to the top ; where stood mounted that great pineapple of brass guilt , which we see now in the garden of the Beluedere . Round about it were set in the wall great marble pillars , and round about the seueral storyes stood a world of Statues . This Moles being found a strong place , Bellisarius put men into it to defend it against the Gothes ; and they defended themselues in it a great while , by breaking the Statues in peeces , and throwing them vpon the heads of the Gothes that besieged them . Since that time , Diuers Popes haue turned it into a formal Castle . Boniface the VIII , Alexander the VI , and Vrban the VIII , haue rendered it a regular Castle , with fiue strong bastions , store of good Cannons , and a constant garison maintened in it . From this Castle I saw diuers times these Fortifications ; and below diuers great peeces of artillary made of the brasse taken out of the Pantheon ; and they shewed vs one great Cannon which was made of the brazen nayles onely that nayled that brasse to the walls of the Pantheon ; the length and forme of those nayles , is seen vpon that Cannon , to shew vnto posterity how great they were , with these words vpon it , ex cla●is trabialibus Porticus Agrippae . In this Castle are kept prisoners of State ; the 5 milions layd vp there by Sixtus Quintus ; the Popes rich triple crownes called Regni , and the chief Registers of the Roman Church . From the top also of this Castle you see distinctly the long Corridor , or Gallery , which runns from the Popes Pallace of the Vatican to this Castle , for the Popes vse in time of danger . It was made by Pope Alexander the VI. and vsed by Clment the VII . who by it got safe into the Castle from the fury of the German Soldiers , who being many of them Lutherans , swore they would eat a peece of the Pope . From hence entring into the Borgo , we went towards S. Peters Church , and in the way stept into the Church of the Carmelits called Santa Maria Transpontina , were in a Chappel on the left hand as you enter , are seen two pillars of stone enchased in wood , to the which S. Peter and S. Paul were tyed when they were whipped before their death , according to the Romans custome . Here 's also the Head of S. Basil the Greek Father surnamed the Great . Here 's also a curious picture of S. Barbara in the Vault , by Caualier Gioseppe . Going on from hence , we came presently to the Pallace of Campeggi , so called because it belonged to Cardinal Campeggi the Popes Legat in England , to whom Henry the VIII gaue it . Heretofore it belonged to the English Embassadors , and was one of the best in Rome , both for being neare the Popes Pallace , and also for that it was well built by famous Bramante . It belongs now to Cardinal Colonna . Ouer against it stands a little Piazza , with a fine fountaine , and ioyning to it , a little Church called , San Jacomo Scozza Caualli , in which , vnder an Altar on the right hand , I saw the stone vpon which Abraham offered to sacrifice his Sonne Isaac : and vnder an other Altar on the left hand , the Stone vpon which our Sauiour was placed when he was presented in the Temple . Both these were brought , or sent to Rome , by Helen mother of the Emperor Constantin the Great , Presently after , you come to the Piazza of S. Peter , built round about with a noble Portico of free-stone borne vp by four rowes of stately round pillars , vnder which not onely the Procession vpon Corpus Christi day , marcheth in the shade ; but also all people may go dry , and out of the sun , in sommer , or winther , vnto S. Peters Church , or the Vatican Pallace . This Portico is built in an oual forme , and fetcheth in the great Piazza , which is before S. Peters Church , and therefore can be no lesse then half a mile in compasse . This noble structure was begun by Alexander the VII , and half of it finished , and the other half is now almost finished . I neuer saw any thing more stately then this . The number of the pillars , and of the statues on the top , I do not justly remember . In the midst of this Piazza stands the famous Guglia ; which was brought out of Egypt in the time of the old Romans , and dedicated to Augustus Caesar and Tiberius , as the words vpon it import . It lay hid long in Neros Circus , which was there where now S. Peters Sacristy is ; and at last Sixtus Quintus hauing proposed great rewards to him that would venture to set it vp here without breaking , it was happily vndertaken , by Dominico Fontana a rare Architect of Como ; and so placed as you see it now . The manner of bringing it out of Egypt , and of erecting it here are both painted in Fresco vpon the Walls of the Vatican Library : This Gulia is all of one stone except the basis ; and it hath no Hieroglyphes vpon it . The stone is a Granite , or speckled marble , which together with its Basis , is a hundred and eight foot high . It rests vpon four lyons of brasse guilt ; and at the top of it is planted a crosse of brasse mounted vpon three Montains with a starr ouer them ( the armes of Sixtus Quintus whose name was Montalto . ) Within the Crosse is a peece of the Holy Crosse of our Sauiour , encluded here by Sixtus Quintus . The whole Guglia is sayd to weigh 9●6148 pound weight . I wōder what scales they had to weigh it with . On each side of this Guglia is to stand a faire Fontaine , one whereof is that which is seen there now ; which throweth vp such a quantity of water , that it maketh a mist alwayes about it , and oftentimes a a rainbow , when the Sun strikes obliquely vpon it . This Piazza is capable of two hundred thousand men , and deliuers you vp to the Stairs which lead you vp to the Church of S. Peter . Comeing therefore neare to S. Peters Church , I was glad to see that noble structure , where greatnesse and neatness , bulk and beauty , are so mingled together , that it s neither neat onely , like a spruce gallery ; nor vast onely , like a great hall ; but it s rather like a proper man , and yet well proportioned . You mount vp to this Church by an easy ascent of four and twenty steps of marble stairs , as long as the frontispice of the Church is wide ; These stairs where those of the old Church of S. Peter ; and Baronius obserues , that when the Emperour Charlemagne mounted vp those stairs first , he kissed euery step as he went vp . These Stairs lead you vp to the Frontispice of the Church , which hath fiue dores in it , letting you into the Porch ; and these dores are cheeked with vast round pillars of freestone twenty four foot in compasse , and eighty six in height . Ouer these pillars runns the architraue , and ouer it , the Lodge or great Balcone , where the Pope is crowned , and where he giues his Benediction vpon Easterday . Ouer this Lodge runns a continuall Baluster or row of rayles , vpon which stand thirteen vast statues of our Sauiour and his Apostles cut in stone . Entring into the Porch , you will admire the length , breadth , and height of it . For the length of it , it s two hundred eighty nine foot : the breadth forty four foot : tho height , a hundred thirty three foot . It s adorned on both sides with great marble pillars , and a curious guilt roofe . In fine , this Porch any where els would be a hansome Church . Ouer against the fiues dores of this Porch , stand the fiue dores of the Church ; one whereof is called , the Porta Sancta , and onely open in the Iubily yeare : the others are dayly open ; and the two principal dores are called , Valuae Sancti Petri , and are couered with brasse by the command of Eugenius the IV , whose memorable actions , to wit , th● crowning of the Emperor Sigismond , and the reunion of the Greek Church with the Latin , are expressed in them . These Valuae are thirteen foot wide , and forty fiue high ; and to them all Popes Bulles are nayled at their publication . Entring into the Church , I found it to be built in crosse wise ; containing in length fiue hundred and twenty foot , and three hundred eighty fiue in bredth . So that it passeth in greatness the famous Temples of antiquity , to wit , Salomons Temple , long threescore cubits : the Temple of Diana in Ephesus , long four hundred twenty fiue foot ; and the great Mosky at Fez , long a hundred and fifty cubits . The roof , or vault of this Church , is arched with great squar● , and each squar is adorned with a great guilt ●ose , which almost fills the squar . This roof is borne vp by great pillars of freestone of a squar forme , whose capitelli are curiously wrought after the Corinthian order , and ioyned to one another aboue by arches & a perpetual cornice , ouer which are cut in stone the statues of seueral moral vertues . These pillars are a hundred and fiue foot in compasse , and distant forty foot one from another . On that side of them which lookes towards the body of the Church ; they are to be ouercrusted with white marble , with two rowes of niches in them for great statues of Brasse guilt . The other sides of these pillars are already adorned with a neat ouercrusting of a redish marble beset with the heads of the p●imitiue martyred Popes , held vp by two Angels , and with the pigeon of Innocent the X , ( who made this decoration ) and all these are in mezzo rilieuo , and of pure white alabaster . Behind these pillars is a large I le , or passage , and behind that I le immediatly , stand fair Chappels which flanck vp this Church notably , and each Chappel is graced with a little Cupola of its owne . In the midst of the Crosse building of this Church is mounted the great Cupola , which lookes like a great crowne wherewith this Queen of Churches is crowned . It rests vpon four Pilastri or great pillars which make the corners of the crosse of this Church , and from them it riseth into such a high Vault , that it seems to walke into heauen . It s full as round as the Pantheon in Rome , that is , it carryeth the compasse of an hundred and seauenty paces , as you may easily measure vpon the circle of white marble in the pauement , which enuironeth the Altar of S. Peter , and is made there a purpose perpendicularly vnder the Cupola to shew its greatness . The inside of this Cupola is curiously painted with pictures in Mosaick worke representing a ●eauen : indeed nothing but heauen it self can be finer , or higher . So that I may say truly to Rome with Rutillius , Non procul a coelo per tua templa sumus . In a word this Cupola is the boldest peece of Architecture that perhaps the world hath seen ; and it was the last and greatest worke of Sixtus Quintus his purse . The four Pilastri vpon which this Cupola resteth , are vast squar pillars a hundred and twenty foot in compasse , and capable of stairs within them , and large Sacristyes aboue , for the Holy Relicks that are kept in them ; to wit , the Volto Santo , or print of our Sauiours face , which he imprinted in the handkercher of S. Veronica : The peece of the Holy Crosse : the top of the lance wherewith our Sauiours side was pearced : and the Head of S. Andrew the Apostle● translated hither into his Brothers Church by Pius secundus . Hence in these great pillars , are cut Niches and in them placed four vast Statues of white marble . Vnder the Relick of the Volto Santo stands the Statue of the Veronica : vnder the peece of the Holy Crosse , the statue of S. Helen . Vnder the top of the lance , the Statue of Longinus : vnder the Head of S. Andrew , The statue of S. Andrew . These statues are of Colossean greatness , and made by masters as great as themselues . In the midst of the Crosse of this Church , and perpendiculary vnder the very Cupola , stands the High Altar of this Church . This Altar may well be called , the High Altar ( Altare quasi alta Ara ) or the Altare mains , being the noblest Altar in the world , both for matter and forme . The Altar it self stands ouer the Tombe S. Peter , half of whose body , together with half of S. Pauls , lyes buryed here ; and the other half of their bodyes in S. Pauls Church . Ouer this Altar four stately pillars of brasse beare vp a Canopie of the same mettal , wrought about the edge like a Canopie indeed , with Valances and a guilt fringe , yet all of brasse . Ouer the corners of this Canopie stand four great Angels of brasse guilt , and in the midst of it , is mounted high a round ball of brasse guilt , and a faire Crosse vpon it of the same mettal . These four pillars are as great in compase ( I speak by experience hauing taken the measure of them vpon their model ) as three ordinary men are thick . Their forme is is serpentine , wreathed about with vinetrees and leaues ; but all of brasse ; as also adorned with little Angels of brasse clambering vp those leaues and branches , and with Bees here and there also , relating to Pope Vrbans armes , who made them . These pillars are fifty foot high from the ground . Euery on of them weigheth fiue and twenty thousand pound weight ; and all of them together make this Altar , The Altar antonomastically , as this Church is The Church of the world . So that if the Climax be true ( as ●rue it is ) that Churches are for Altars , Altars for Priests , Priests for God , I know no Religion which payeth such honorable Tributs of worship to God , as the Roman Catholik religion doth , which hath the noblest Church , the noblest Altar , the noblest Priest , the noblest Sacrifice , and all this to the noblest God ; Deus Deorum Dominus . Hence the Pope may say with Salomon : Domus quam aedificare cupio magna est , magnus est enim Dominus noster super omnes Deos. Behind this Altar ( not in respect of him that comes into the Church by the great dore , but in respect of him that stands at the Altar ) stands the Confession of S. Peter ; so called because that in the primitiue times , the place where the bodyes of Saints and Martyrs where kept , was called Confessio , and in the Greek Church , Martyrium . For in ancient writers the word Confessor was taken often for a martyr , who had confessed Christ so farre as euen to dye for him : so that martyrs were sometimes called Confessors , and Confessors Martyrs , though they did not actually dye in tormens ; as you may see plainly in the Anotations of learned Pamelius vpon Tertullians booke ad Martyres . Now , this place because it conserues the body ( at least , half of the body ) of S. Peter , is called , the Confession of Peter . As for this Confession , it s made like a hollow caue open aboue , and rayled about with low rayles , so that the people kneeling , may looke downe to the iron dore and grate , behinde which the Tombe of S. Peter stands vnder the Altar : for these rayles fetch in a demi-circle from one corner of the Altar to the other . There are also a double pair of open stairs , of some twelue steps a peece , for those to descend by who officiate , and there are two little half dores which let them in to those stairs . And I conceiue , at the bottom of these little dores , the Limina Apostolorum to bee . For though I know its generally held , that to visit the Limina Apostolorum ( which Bishops by the Canon law are obliged vnto ) is to visit S. Peters Church ; and that diuers learned Authors think the Limina Apostolorum , to be the very steps of the entrance of the great dore of the Church ; yet I am of opinion , that these little half dores , and the steps about the Altar are most properly the Limina Apostolorum , because I found these very words written in golden letters in the bottom of the like little dores which stand about the High Altar in S. Pauls Church , where the other half of the bodyes of S. Peter , and S. Paul are intombed . Round about this Church stand side Chappels , some six and twenty in all , called ancienly Cubicula , and those whom we call Chaplains , were anciently called Cubicularii : hence the title of Cubicularius S. Petri. Now these Chappels haue , for the most part , some remarkable thing in them . In one of them , is alwayes reserued the B. Sacrament for the dayly vse of Pilgrims that desire to communicate in S. Peters Church , and other deuout people . In that of S. Gregory Nazianzen , is the body of that Saint translated hither out of the Church of the Nunns of Campo Marzo . In the Chappel of the Canons , reposeth the body of S. Chrysostome . In the Chappel called the Clementina , reposeth the body of S. Gregory the great , who being Pope of Rome and moued by Godly instinction ( as Iohn Stow sayth ) sent Augustin , Iustus , Melitus , and other Monks liuing in the feare of God , to conuert the Angles , or English to the faith of Christ ; and therfore I tooke particular notice often of his tombe , as being ( as Venerable Bede calls him ) our Apostle . In a Chappel at the very further end of the Church , is set vp the Chair of S. Peter ; held vp by four Doctors of the Church , all cast in brasse in a stately posture . This Chair is of wood , but much spent with old age ; and therfore Pope Alexander the VII , caused it to be set vp here and enchased curiously , to preserue it . I once saw it neere at hand , being exposed to publick view in the middle of the Church vpon the Feast day of S. Peters Chair in Rome . In an other Chappel , is the Crucifix made three hundred yeares ago by rare Pietro Caualino . In an other Chappel , you see cut in white marble the history of S. Leo's meeting Attila out of Rome , and his deturning him from comeing any nearer to the City . As for the Relicks and bodies of Saints which are in this Church , besides those mentioned already , there are the bodyes of SS . Simon and Iude , of S. Petronilla , of SS . Processus and Martinianus , of ten first Popes after S. Peter ; with a world of other precious Relicks Kept in the Sacristy . As for the Tombes which are in this Church aboue ground , they are these . That of Sixtus IV. of Paulus III ; of Vrban the VIII ; of Leo the XI . of Innocent the VIII ; of Gregory the XIII ; of Innocent the X ; and lastly that of the Countesse Matilde , the onely secular person that I finde to haue a Tombe in this Church aboue ground . Indeed she deserues well to lye in S. Peters Church who deserued to be called S. Peters daughter ; and she deserued this surname , for hauing defended the Church so galantly it is greatest conflict Against Henry the IV. Emp. and hauing endowed it with a good part of its Patrimony . Her body was translated from Mantua hither in the yeare 1633. by the command of Pope Vrban the VIII . Neare the Confession of S. Peter , is an old brazen statue of S. Peter sitting , with his hand vp as giuing his blessing ; and holding his right foot a little out , to be kissed . At first , some wonder to see deuout people flocking thither , and kissing the fotte of that statue , and puting their heads vnder that foot when they haue done ; but when they are well informed , that all this is done onely to testify , that they submit themselues to the authority which was giuen by our Sauiour , to S. Peter , and his Successors , they rest satisfyed . Ouer the Holy water pot on the left hand as you enter into the Church is seen fastened to the wall , an old inscription vpon a squar stone , importing , that that was the very stone vpon which the bodyes of S. Peter and S. Paul where diuided , when half of their bodyes was buryed here and the other half in S. Pauls Church , by S. Siluester . As for the prime pictures that are in this Church ; they are these : That of S. Michel in Mosaick work is of the designe of Caualier Gioseppe : as also the designe of the Masaick worke in the Cupola . That of S. Iohn Euangelist , and S. Luke iust vnder the Cupola are of the hand of Giouanni de Vechi . The picture where S. Peter cures the lame man , is of the hand of Ludouico da Ciuoli . That of the fall of Simon Magus is of the hand Vanni of Siena . That where S. Peter is painted with Annanias dead before him , is of the hand of Caualier Rancalli . That of the Altar of S. Gregorie , is of the hand of Andrea Sacco Romano . That of the creation of the world , is of Pietro Berettino de Cortona . That of Medica fidei , is of the hand of Lanfranco . Hauing thus seen the Church I went to see the Sacristy of this Church where by expresse leaue from the Monsignor , who hath the chief care , as wel as the Keys of it , I saw the Holy Relicks , and neat Church plate belonging to this Church . The Relicks are many , and richly enchased in gold and syluer . The Church plate is both plentifull , and of great valew , as many Chalices of pure gold set with iewels , hugo syuer Candlestiks with a Crucifix of the same as heauy as a man can lift , with a world of other such like plate . But that which pleased me most here , was the ancient Picture of S. Peter and S. Paul , which saint Syluester shewed to Constantin the Great to confirme the truth of his Vision . The Picture is very old , yet the faces are perceuable , and that is all . It s set in a frame of syluer . The history of it is both long and knowne : & if any man be ignorāt of it , let him read it in Baronius . There is also in the sayd Sacristy an other picture nayled high vpon the wall , which was made by N. Carpi with his fingers insteed of a pencil . Being now in the Sacristy , I got leaue to go downe into the Grotte vnder this Church , with a practical Clericus with a lighted torch to shew me and explicate vnto me the most considerable things that are there : as the Tombe of S. Peter with an Altar ouer it , at which any Bishop or priest may say Masse : a world of ancient statues ( set in the low Chappels , and in the wall of this Grotte ) which belonged to the old Church of S. Peter , and shewing the antiquity of pictures in Churches : the Tombe of the most honorable Churchman of our Nation , Pope Adrian the IV , the onely English Pope that euer was : the Tombe of the Emperor Otho the second , in a great porphiry shrine : the Tombes of diuers other great Popes and Cardinals : and in sine , the tombestone of Charlotte of Luzignan , Queen of Ierusalem , Cyprus , and Armenia , who hauing been driuen out of her kingdome by her Bastard Brother , came to Rome in Sixtus Quartus his time , and there dyed . She transfered before her death , her right to the kingdome of Cyprus , to the Duke of sauoy her brother in law ; which makes that Duke giue a close crowne ouer his armes , and be stiled by his subjects , Altezza Reale , Royall Highnesse . Hauing thus seen this Church both within and vnderground , I was desirous to see it also aboue . Ascending therefore by a fair staircase I arriued at the great terrasse ouer the Lodge , and there saw the thirteen statues of our Sauiour and the twelue Apostles neare hand , which seeme below little taller then the stature of our tallest men , and yet here aboue are eighteen foot high . There also I saw the seuerall little Cupolas , which giue light to the side Chapels of this Church , and looke like the yssue and spawne of the Great Cupola . Then mounting a little higher . I beheld the rare fabrick of the mother Cupola , both within and without . The staires to mount vp into it : the double vault in it , and stairs between the two vaults : the lanterne vpon the Cupola : the narrow stairs in one of the pillars of that Lanterne vp to the Ball : lastly the straight neck of the passage into the Ball , and the Ball it self , are all worth particular obseruation , as being the height of Architecture . The Ball it self of brasse guilt is capable of thirty men , though from below it lookes onely as big as twice a mans head . We were eight in it at once ; and I am sure we could haue placed thrice as many more . Vpon the round Ball is mounted a great Crosse of yron guilt to signifie , that the Vertue of the Crosse by our Sauiours passion , hath triumphed ouer the world , of which this round Ball is the expresse emblem . From this Cupol● we had a perfect View of Rome vnder vs , and of all the Villas about it . But nothing was so wonderfull , as to see S. Peters Church and Pallace , looke like a towne vnder vs , which we knew to be but one Church and house . You will wonder perchance too , when you shall heare that this Church is the eight wonder of the world , that the Pyramids of Egypt , the walls of Babylon , the Pharos , Colossus , &c. were but heaps of stones compared to this fabrick : that it hath put all antiquity to the blush , and all posterity to a Non plus : that its seueral parts are all incomparable Master-peeces : its pictures all originals : its statues perfect models : That it hath a reuenue of aboue twenty thousand pounds a yeare onely for the fabrick : that it hath cost till the yeare 1654 , ( The accounts being then summed vp ) Forty millions of crownes : that most of the Popes since Iulius the II his time ( and they haue been twenty three in all ) haue hartened and aduanced this work ▪ that the prime Architects of the world , Sangalla , Bramante , Baldassere , Buonarota , Giacomo della Porta , Giouani Fontana , Carlo Maderno , and now Caualiero Bernino , haue brought , it on to this perfection : that the whole Church it self is nothing but the Quintessence of wit and wealth strained into a religious designe of making a hansome house to God , and of fulfilling , the diuine oracle which promised ; that magna erit gloria domus istius nouissimae , plusquam primae . Going at last out of this Church , and summing vp in my thoughts all the rarityes I had seen in it , I began to think of Ammonius ( a holy primitiue Saint and afterwards Bishop in the Council of Sardis ) of whom it s written , that comeing to Rome with S. Athanasius , he desired to see nothing there but S. Peters Church , and knew not the way to any place els ; I think , that if this good man had seen S. Peters Church as it is now , he would neuer haue cared for seing any thing els in the world , and would euen haue forgot his way home too . Neare to the Church of S. Peter , stands the Vatican Pallace , where the Popes use to winter . To describe it to you all at length , would take me vp too much time ; nor indeed is it fit for me to dwell there . I will therefore passe through it quickly , and rather point you out what 's to be seen there , then paint you out in words what I saw there . 1. From the Church of S. Peter you ascend into this Pallace by an easy & stately pair of stairs capable of ten men a brest . These stairs render you vp at the great Hall ; called Sala Regia , because the Pope receiueth here Embassadors of Kings in their Embassies of state . It is beautifyed with rare pictures in a great volume : as that of the Emperour Frederick kissing the Popes foot , of the hand of Gioseppe del Saluiati Garfagnino . That of the Ligue in France : that of Coligni : that of the Pope condemning heresy : That of the Pope returning from Auignon , are all of the hand of Georgio Vassari . That of the Emperour Charles the Great signing the Brief of the donation , is of the hand of Thadeo Zuccari : that of the battle of Lepanto with the picture of Fayth at the side of it , is of the hand of Donato Formello . 2. This great Hall stands between two Chappels , the Paulina and the Sista . In the Paulina is seen a rare picture of the crucifying of S. Peter by Michel Angelo . The roof of it also was rarely painted by Federico Zuccari , but the smoke of the candles vpon Manday Thursday , when this Chappel serues for the Sepulcher , hath so defaced these pictures , that a farre worse hand would haue serued there . 3. The Chappel of Sisto is that in which the Pope holds Capella vpon certain dayes , and were all the Cardinals interuene . In the end of this Chappel vpon the wall , is painted the last Iudgement by Michel Angelo , a peece famous ouer all the world . The green garments of S. Katharine and the ●ead of S. Biagio are of the painting of Daniel of Volterra , who was presently set a worke to make those garments , when the Pope had giuen expresse order , that this rare picture should be defaced , because of some nakedneess in it . Vpon great dayes this Chappel is hung with a rare sute of hangings of the designe of Raphael Vrbin wrought with gold and silk , containing the Acts of S. Peter and S. Paul. 4. Beinde this Chappel stands the Popes Sacristy ; a place scarce knowne to strangers , and therefore seldome seen by them ; though very well wroth the seeing . It s kept alwayes by a Prelat , who is alwayes an Augustin Fryar , and a Bishop , and called Monsignor Sacrista . In authors of high times we finde mention of this officer vnder the name of Cimiliarcha , or chief Sacristan . Here I saw rare Church ornaments for the Popes vse . These in particular I cannot let passe without mentioning : The cope of saint Syluester Pope , thirteen hundred yeares a goe . The neat Chasuble of cloth of tyssue with the pictures of the ministring the seauen Sacrements , all embrodered in it in silk and gold so rarely , that the late Lord Mareshal of England Tho. Earle of Arundel . got leaue to haue it painted out , and so much the more willingly , because it had been giuen to the Pope by King Henry the VIII a little before his Schisme . Then the incomparable sutes of ornaments for Priest , Deacon , and Subdeacon , to be vsed in high Masse , which were giuen by King Sebastian of Portugal , and set all ouer with pearle , and these pearles were the first that came out of the Indyes , and were in all eight hundred pound weight of pearle . The other rare things here were the Head of S. Laurence , which I saw neare at hand , through a crystal : a peece of the spunge , in which the Jewes gaue our Sauiour gall to drink : the Camisia of S. Prisca a primitiue Saint martyred in it 1400 yeares ago : the Crucifix in which is set vnder a crystal , a peece of the Holy Crosse carued with the passion of our Sauiour in it : a thorne of our Sauiours crowne of thornes , which belongd to Pius Quintus : a crosse set with Diamans and Pearles , which the Pope wears at his brest in great functions : a great ring which he also weareth in such functions ; it s set with a fair Saphir , and four great pearles : a fair Crucifix enameld and beset with store of pearle and Iewels : the Popes Pallium which he wears in great functions : the fistula , or pipe of gold wherwith the Pope receiues the consecrated blood of our Sauiour in the Chalice vpon great dayes : the rare Chalices of gold set with pearle , and yet more pretious for their workmanship then for their matter : the great Chalice of gold , into which the Cardinals put their written Votes in chuseing the Pope by scrutiny : the fiue triple crownes called Regni , four wereof are set thick with pretious stones and pearle of great value , and therfore ordinarily kept in the Castle Angelo : two miters of the same richness : the chrystal Pixe in which the Blessed Sacrament is kept in the Sepulcher vpon Manday Thursday : in fine the booke of the Ghospels painted in miniature by the famous Giulio Glorio , for whose first picture here ( of the last Iudgement ) Paulus Tertius sent him fifteen hundred pistols , as Monsignor Sacrista assured me . 5. Passing from hence through the Sala Regia againe , I was led into the great roome hard by , where the Pope washeth the feet of thirteen Pilgrims vpon Manday Thursday ; and then giueth euery one of then a great Meddal of Gold with four pistols , and an other of syluer . 6. Thence I was led into the open gallerie which looketh vpon the court ; I meane , the second lodge , ( for there are three such open galleries ) where the histories of the Bible are painted most curiously in the roof of it by prime masters . That of Adam and the Creation : that where Adam sowes : that where the sheep drink : that were Jacob saw the ladder : that of the last Supper of Christ with his Apostles : that where Moyses shews the Laws , are all of the hand of Raphael Vrbin . That of the Deluge : & of the adoration of the golden Calf , are of the hand of Raphael dal Borgo . That where Josue commands the Sun to stop : that of Bersabee , and the like , are of the hand of Pierino del Vago . That of the Chariot , and some others are of the hand of Carauagio . That of Moyses strikeing the Rock ; that of the iudgement of Salomon ; and some others are of the hand of Iulio Romano . That of the Baptisme of Christ , with other such like , are of the hand of Pellegrino da Modena . Yet because in all these pictures Raphael Vrbin giue either the designe , or some touches , this Gallery is called Raphaels Gallery : indeed nothing but the diuine history it self can be finer then this painting of Diuine Raphael . And it belongs onely to Rome to haue the Bible set out thus in its owne colours : and if pictures be the best bookes for ignorant people , who can say that the Bible is kept from the people here , seing its painted and printed here in the most Vulgar tongue , and knowne language , pictures ? In a word Raphaels colours seemed to me to illustrate the text very much , and to be an excellent Comment vpon the Holy scripture , 7. From this gallery I was led into the great chamber , where Constantins Victory ouer Maxentius is so rarely painted vpon the walls by Raphaels owne hand , that this painting serues this chamber not onely for a rich Tapistry ; but also for an eternal Trophee to that Emperour . The seueral postures here of men and horses , all in confusion , yet all in such due proportion make this picture ( in the judgement of Monsieur Poussin a famous painter ) the rarest thing in the world for designe . In the other fellowing rooms there are diuers other rare peeces of the same hand ; as that of Attila and Pope Leo : that of S. Peter in prison , a peece much admired for the perspectiue of it : That of the B. Sacrament : that of the burning of the Borgo : that of Aeneas carrying his Father Anchises out of the flames , are of Raphaels hand . The history of HoHeliodorus ouer the chimney , is of the hand of Iulio Romano , Raphaels scholler . 8. Going vp from hence into the highest open gallerie , you l finde it painted with Geographical Maps of the hand of Antonio da Varese . The roof of it is also well painted by Pomerancio , Paris Romano , and Bronzini , excellent painters all . 9. Then comeing downe , I saw the Sala Clamentina a noble roome . The rare perspectiues in the roof , and in one of the corners , both of them expressing the armes of Clement the VIII are worth your attentiue consideration . 10. Then the diuers Chambers of his Holyness hung all with Damask hangings in sommer , and veluet hangings in winter , are very neat . In the Popes bed chamber I saw the graue picture of our Lady with her Sonne in her armes , called Saint Mary Maior , it s painted curiously vpon a white transparent stone three fingers thick , and yet shewing the picture on both sides if held before the sun . 11. The great roome guilt ouer-head , where the Pope treats at dinner great Princes when they come to Rome . 12. The old appartament of Pius Quintus ; with the great wodden bed , or rather , the little wodden chamber of Paulus Quintus . 13. The rare peece of perspectiue ouer the dore of the long roome leading to the Gallery of Maps . At the first looking vpon it , you see nothing but certain types , or figures of the Blessed Sacrament out of the old Testament , but being placed directly vnder it , and looking vpwards , you see all the foresayd types contracted into the forme of a Calice and an hoast ouer it ; so shew , that those old types and shadowes prefigured onely the body and blood of our Sauiour in the holy Sacrifice of the Altar . 14. The long gallery of the Maps of Italy painted vpon the walls on both sides by Paulus Brillus a Flemming , and others ; and that so distinctly , that you see plainly euery State , Prouince , City , Riuer , Village , Castle , highway of Italy , and where any famous battle was fought either in the Romans time , or since : A Gallery which I wish I had spent as many houres in , as I spent dayes in going vp to Rome . Diuers other Galleries there are in this house which I passe ouer in silence . 14. But I cannot passe euer so the long Gallerie leading to the Beluedere , in which is kept the Conclaue of all Popes : in this one great roome fifty , or thresecore , Cardinals lodg , and haue euery one two chambers , one for himself , and the other for his Conclauist . Ex vngue Leonem you may judge by this what the whole house is ; or els by this what they assure you , when they tell you , that there are fiue thousand Chambers in that Pallace . 15. From the middle of the foresayd Gallery , you enter into the Vatican Library , famous all the learned world ouer , for hauing in it , besides the Registers of the Roman Church . the choycest manuscripts of rhe world in holy languages . This Baronnius found , who drew from hence notable succour for the maintaining of this Ecclesiasticall history against the Centuriators of Magdebourg , who wanting these assured aymes , and being otherwise wrongly biassed , made faults in their history , as many as their Centuries , and as great as their Volumes . The description of this Library hath been made by learned Angelus Rocca in Latin , and by Mutius Pansa in Jtalian : yet for the sactisfaction of my curious countrymen I shall say something of it . First the roome is a vast long roome speading it self in the furter end , into two wings of building , which are all full of presses where the manuscripts are kept carefully from mice and rats , and moist weather . At the entrance into this Library , you are let into a fair chamber full of desks for a dozen of writers , who haue good stipends to copie out bookes in all languages ; and they are bound to be writeing so many houres in a morning . Round-about this roome hang the Pictures of all the Cardinals that haue been Bibliothecarii since Sixtus Quintus his time . Then entr●ng into the Library it self , I saw the vast wide roome supported ( like a Church ) by great squar pillars , about which are as many cupbord were the manuscripts are conserued . On the wall on the right hand , are painted in Fresco the General Councils of the Church , with the Bible in the midst laying open vpon a stately throne , and with the order and place of precedency obserued in them : as also some notable accidents in Ecclesiastical history . On the left hand are painted all the famous Libraryes anciently mentioned by authors : and vpon the great pillars are painted the first Inuentors and promotors of learning . This long roome spreads it self at last into two wings on each hand ; both which are full of curious bookes , both manuscripts , and printed bookes ; diuers of which were showne me with great ciuility , by Monsignor Holstenius then keeper of this Library whom I had formerly knowne . The chief of these bookes were these . A vast Hebrew Bible too heauy for any man to lift vp . An ancient copie of the Septuagints translation in Greek , after which the Bible hath been printed both in Rome and London . The Acts of the Apostles in Greek curiously written in golden letters . The Ghospel written by S. Chrysostoms owne hand . An Hebrew Bible written in sheets of parchment pasted to one another , and rowled vp : hence the word Volumen , for a booke . A little booke written in barke of trees : hence the word folium , for a leaf in a booke . Certain old Roman Table bookes . A China Tablebooke of wood , in which they wrote with a pointed steele . A curious China booke all in Hieroglyphs , and folded vp in many folds : our Purchas in his curious nauigations hath both printed and deciphered it . Polidor Virgils history of England written with his owne hand . An old booke of Sermons in Latin in whose margin S. Thomas of Aquin had made notes with his owne hand . An old Virgil with the pictures of the history in old painting . An old Terence written twelue hundred yeares a goe , and the ancientest that euer Politian saw , as he testifyeth vnder his owne hand in the inside of the couer of this booke . Baronnius his Annals in his owne hand writeing . The rare quotations out of the ancient Fathers , painfully and faithfully collected out of the best copies , by learned Cardinal Sirleto in the time of the Council of Trent , and sent by him weekly , by the Poste , from Rome , to the Fathers in the Council , who proceeded to their definitions by the ancient tradition of the Church , found so plainly and vnanimously in those Fathers . Those quotations make six Volumes in folio : and this was it , which out aduersaryes call , the sending downe of the Holy Ghost to Trent in a cloak-bag ; when it was onely the seding downe of these faithfull testimonies of the Tradition of the Church , gathered out of the most ancient and authentick copies . The letters of Henry the VIII of England to Anne Bolen his mistresse then , in his owne hand writeing , Some in English , some in French , but all amatory . It is easy to imagine them written by him , if you compare the hand-writing of these letters , with those two Verses written by the Kings owne hand in the frontispice of the following Booke , to wit. The booke which the sayd Henry wrotte against Martin Luther , and dedicated it by a couple of Latin verses written with is owne hand in the Frontispice of it , to Pope Leo the tenth : which booke purchased to King Henry the honorable title of defender of the faith . Then I was showne the Library of the Duke of Vrbin , who dyeing without heires male bequeathed his Library to the Vatican Library here . In this , I saw many rare manuscripts written in parchment , and painted in miniature : especialy that booke in whose margins are painted by a rare hand , and wonderfull diligence , all the insects in nature , in their liuely colours and true resemblance . Ouer against this Library , they shewed me , in the same roome , the Library of Heidelberg , sent to Rome by the Duke of Bauaria after he had dispossessed the Elector Frederick Prince Palatin of Rhein , of his country , as well as of the kingdome of Bohemia which he had seazed on , at the instigation of Bethleem Gabor and others . See the Mercure François . They shewed me here , among diuers other bookes , the booke of designes of the sayd Prince Elector Palatin , which he had designed being yong . Happy Prince if he had not designed to himself an other mans crowne . In the great roome of this Library , there is an iron dore which leteth you into a more secret roome , where the Registers of the Church of Rome are kept : the keeper of which Registers was anciently called Chartularius ; an office much like to that in the Greek Church , called Cartophylax . In fine , I was showne here diuers letters of great persons and Princes , written with their owne hands , as of S. Charles Boromaeus , to Cardinal Sirleto who had had a hand in his education : of Queen mary of England : of King Philip the second of Spayne hir husbād , stileing himselfe King of Spayne , England , and France ; of Francis the First of France : of Margaret of Parma that Gouerned Flanders when it reuolted : of President Vargas a Spaniard , and a great statesman in Flanders , but no great Latinist , as it appeared by his answer to the Doctors of Louain ( petitioning him in Latin for their priuiledges ) when he se sayd ; Non curamus vostros priuilegios . Mali faxerunt templa , boni nihil faxerunt contra : ergo debent omnes patibulari : the tearmes of the expostulation being as harsh as the Conclusion of it ▪ and some old polite Orators had rather haue been hangd indeed , then threatened in such bad Latin. A little before I went out of this Library I sawe neere the dore , the Statue of Hippolitus Bishop of Portua , ( who liued 1400 yeares ago ) sitting in a chair of stone , vpon which is cut in Greek letters the ancient Canon Paschalis , vpon which Scaliger and others haue written . It s a curious peece of learned antiquity , and worthy to he taken notice of . 16. Hauing seen the Library we were led on by the long Gallery mentioned before , vnto the Beluedere , were we descended into the Popes priuate garden , full of orange trees , fine walkes , and fountains . Here are three or four , vnauoidable wetting places to those that are not acquainted with them . Henc you goe downe to see the rare fountain of the iron ship . In this garden I saw the Pineapple of brasse guilt , which is as great as three men can fathom about , and twice as high as the tallest man can reach . Here also stand by it the two great Peacocks of brasse guilt , which stood anciently vpon Scipio Affricanus his tombe , and are some three or four yeards long . 17. From hence we were led hard by to see the Beluedere of the Maschere , which Michel Angelo called , his Studie . It s a squar Court sett with Orange trees , in whose walls are great Niches , with leaues to them of wood , where the choyce statues of the world are conserued vnder lock and key , and free from ill weather . The chief statues here , are these : that of the riuer Nilus , and that of Tyber , both in cumbent postures : That of Antinous , minion of the Emperor Adrian ; it s of pure oriental marble , and rarely cut : that of Cleopatra : that of Venus comeing out of a bath : that of Commodus the Emperor : that of Laocoon and his sonns inuolued about with serpents . This statue of Laocoon is the master peece of sculpture . That in the middle of the Court , of Hercules without armes , leggs , or head , is so rare a trunck , that Michel Angelo professed , he had learned more skill out of that broken statue , then out of all the whole ones he had euer seen . Hence you see alwayes a world of sculptors designeing it out : A peece of the Lions skin yet appearning made me not doubt but that it was the statue of Hercules . 18. From hence we stept into the great garden of the Baluedere , full of exotick trees , curious fountains , shady walks , and great variety of Grottes and wetting sports . 19. Lastly , in our returne againe through the Vatican palace , we saw the Armory full of armes , for thirty thousand men , horse and foot , and well kept . Hauing thus seen the Vatican Pallace , I went on with the rest of the curiosityes of the towne , and tooke them in order as they lay . Henc going from S. Peters , and leauing the Pallace of the Santo Officio on my right hand , I came presently to the Hospital of San Spirito which is hard by . The situation of this Hospital neare to S. Peters Church , was not done casually ; but without doubt , vpon designe and for this end , that men might learne by the very situation of Hospitals neare vnto great Churches ( as I obserued in many other places both in Italy , and France ) that Christians after they haue performed their dutyes to God , ought to pay in the next place their dutyes to their neigbour ; and let that faith , which they came from exerciseing in the Church towards God , be made appeare by good works exercised presently in Hospitals towards men . Now this Hospital of San Spirito , is one of the fairest in Europe both for bignesse , and reuenues . It hath a thousand beds in it for the sick : a Prelate to gouerne it : store of Priests , Physitians , and vnder Officers , to attend on them , and a reuenue of seauentie thousand crownes a yeare . There is also a Monastery of women in it , in a place separated from the rest , capable of 500 yong girles . In the appartiments aboue stairs there is hansome accomodation for poore gentlemen , founded by the gentleman like charity of Pope Vrban the VIII , to this end , that those whom Fortune had priuiledged by better birth , might not be inuolued in common miseries . There is also a grace towards the street , where little infants are put into a squar hole of a Turne , and so turned in by night by their vnlawfull mothers , who not dareing to owne them , would otherwise dare to destroy them . Constantin the Great founded such hospitals for exposed chrildren . The person that brings the child in the night rings a little bell whose rope hangs at the outside of that grate , & an officer within comes presently and receiueth it ; & hauing first asked whether it be baptised or no , carrieth it presently away , and recommends it to a Nurse , of which there are alwayes store in readiness entertained there at the cost of the Hospital on the womans side of the house . When the children are growne fit for instruction , they are set to trads . The girles are carefully brought vp by religious women there , till they be fit for Mariage or a Nunnery , according to their vocation . From hence I went to S. Onofrios Church vpon the hill , where I saw the Tombe and picture ouer it , of rare Torquato Tasso , whose warlike Muse is able to inspire mettle into his Readers breast , and dispose him to the engagement of a new Croisade against the Turks . This I can say of him , that if Virgil hindered him from being the f●rst of Poëts , he hindered Virgil from being the onely Poët . Returning downe againe , and going along the Longara , I saw the stately pallace of the Duke of Saluiati on the right hand , and the Villa of Chisi ( now called the garden of Farnesi , on the left hand . In this Villa I saw rare painting attributed to Raphael Vrbin . Ouer against this garden , liues now the Queene of Suede , in whose Pallace besides the rare hangings of cloth of gold , & of arras hangings of silk and gold , I saw a curious collection of pictures , originals all , and of the prime masters of the world : That of S r Thomas Moor● is , without doubt , of Hans Holbains hand , and a rare peece . Passing on the Longara still , I came to the Porta Septimiana , so called from Septimius Seuerus who built here his Therme ; and so vp the Hill to Saint Pancratius his Gate , and to the Church of that Saint possessed now by discalced Carmelits . Vnder this Church is the Caemeterium Calepodit , where many Martyrs bodies were buryed . Here was buryed Crescentius the tyrant , who seazing vpon the Castle Angelo swayd all in Rome for a while . From hence I went to the Villa Pamfilia , which is hard by . It s a new Villa , but seated high , and from the terrasse vpon the top of the house , you haue a fine prospect . There are diuers good pictures and statues in the house , and fine waterworks , and a grotta in the garden . The best pictures here are , the Crucifixion of S. Peter , and the Conuersion of S. Paul , of Michel Angelos hand . The entry of the Animals into the Arke of Noe , is a rare peece the best statues are the wrastling of Jacob with the Angel in white marble : Senecas statue : and the Busto of Innocent the X of porphyry : and his head in brasse . Returning again into the towne the same way we came , I saw the braue Fountaine made by Paulus Quintus , who caused the water to be brought thither from the Lake of Bracciano aboue thirty miles off , by a stately Aqueduct ; and from hence it is dispersed into the City and there makes new fountains . Hard by stands the Conuent of Franciscans vpon a Hill , called S. Pietro Montorio , where S. Peter was crucifyed with his head downeward , in that very place of the court where ther 's now a round Chappel ▪ entring into the Church I was much taken with the picture for the high Altar representing our Sauiours Transfiguration . It was the last and best peece of Raphael Vrbins making , and then I may say , it is the best in world : I gesse it to be the best of Raphaels peeces , because dyeing he commanded that this picture , of all his pictures , should be set vp at his feet after his death . In this Church lyes buryed the Earle of Tyrone who fled from Ireland hither in Queen Elizabeths time . Here are two fine statues in marble of S. Peter and S. Paul , of the hand of Michel Angelo . Going out of this Church , you haue a fair sight of Rome under you from this hill . This Hill was anciently called Ianiculus ; and vpon it was buryed Statius the Poët ; and at the foot of it Numa Pompilius . Neare the foot of this Hill stands the Church and Conuent of the Scala , belonging to the Discalced Carmelits . The High Altar is very ●eat ; and the good Fathers shewd vs in a little Chappel within the Conuent the foot of S. Theresa , which ●s plainly seen through a crystal in which it s kept . Not farre from hence stands Santa Maria Trasteuere , the first Church built in Rome ( sayth Baronius ) and built there where anciently stood the Tabernae meritoriae ; where the maimed soldiers receiued their pittance dayly . The Guilt roof , and the two rowes of marble pillars , do much beautify this Church . Vnder the High Altar is yet seen the place where oyle yssued out , as from a Fountain , a little before our Sauiours birth , as denounceing his birth to be at hand , who was to be called Christus , that is annointed . In this Church lye buryed Cardinal Hosius a most learned Trent Father , and Cardinal Campegius the Popes Legate in England in Henry the VIII time . You see here the stone that was tyed about the neck of S. Calixtus Pope when he was throwne into a Well . Here also you see great round stones which where hung at the fee● of the Martyrs to torment them . The Conuent of Franciscan Fryer● called S. Francesco in Ripa Grand● is hard by ; where I saw the Chamber where great S. Francis lodged when he liued in Rome . It s now turned into a Chappel . In the Church there is an excellent picture of Piety , made by Caraccio . Here in the Church is the tombe of Beata Ludouica Mathei of the the third order of S. Francis. I tooke the Ripa grande in my way , and saw there the boates of marchandise which come to Rome from Ligorne , Giuità Vechia , Naples , and other places , and disembark their goods here . From the Ripa I went to S. Cicilies Church built where her house was , and where she was put to death for the Christian religion . Vnder the High Altar of this Church is the tombe of this primitiue Saint , with her statue in a couchant posture , and iust as her body was found in Clement the VIII time , wrapt vp in vayls stayned with blood ; and couered with a robe of gold . The neat decoration before the High Altar , with the syluer lamps burning before the Tombe of this Saint , was the foundation of Cardinal Sfondrati . At the end of this Church , as you come in , are seen yet the stoues in which S. Cicily was shut vp in her owne house , to be stifled , but that failing , she was beheaded . The stoues are yet entire , and shewing the manner of the ancient stoues . In the Church portch I found the Tombe of one Adam , an English Bishop of London , and Cardinal of this tittle ; who dyed in Rome an . 1397. it hath these verses vpon it . Artibus iste pater famosus in omnibus Adam Theologus summus , Cardinalisque erat . Anglia cui patriam , titulum dedit ista Beatae Aedes Caeciliae , morsque suprema Polum . Not farre from this Church stands S. Chrysogonus his Church , a neat Church repayred some yeares ago by Cardinal Burghesi . The four pillars of the High Altar , looke as if they were of sand and cristal petrifyed together . On the left hand of the wall neare the great dore , lyes buryed Robert Archbishop of York , and titular of this Church but this was all I could learne out of the Tombstone . Hauing thus wandered ouer the Trasteuere , I made towards the I le of S. Bartholomew in , which stands a good Hospital and a Conuent of Franciscans , in whose Church reposeth , vnder the High Altar , in a faire porphyrie Tombe , the body of S. Bartholmew Apostle . This Ile was anciently called Insula Tiberina , and it was first made by the corne of Tarquinius Superbus , which being ( after his ejection out of the City ) pluckt vp by the rootes , and throwne into the riuer , by reason of the quantity of earth that stuck to the rootes , stopped here where the water was low ; and this stoppage once begun , all the mud of the riuer came afterwards to stop here too , and so in time , to forme a little I le in the midst of the riuer . Going out of the I le by the bridge of four heads ( anciently called Pons Fabricius ) which ioynes this I le with the City , I looked downe the riuer on my right hand , to see the Pons Sublicius , which Cocles alone defended against an army , till the bridge was cut downe behind him : which he perceiuing , leapt into the riuer armed , and swome safe to his fellow Citizens , who were as glad to see him come off safe , as to finde themselues safe . It was called Pons Sublicius , from the word Sublica in Latin , which signifies great beams of wood , of which it was made : it was afterwards built of stone by Aemilius . From this bridge the wicked Emperor Heliogabalus was throwne into the riuer and drowned with a great stone about his neck . No sooner was I ouer this bridge , but I saw on my left hand , the great back dore of the Jewry ; for here the Iews liue all together in a corner of the towne , and are locked vp euery night . I entred into their Synagogues here ( which they call their schooles ) where they meet vpon Saturdays and sing and pray . I wondered at first , that they had learned no more manners in these their schooles then to enter into them to pray , without either puting of hats , lifting vp eyes , or bending of knees , to the Great Iehoua , whom they rather feare then loue . Moses going to him , put of this shooes , and I expected , that these men should , at least , haue put of their hatts at the entrance into their Synagogues : but they are Archclownes ; and their fowle towels , at the entrance into their Synagogues , told me as much . I once saw a circumcision , but it was so painfull to the child , that it was able to make a man heartily thank God that he is a Christian . And realy If the little child could speak and wish , I beleeue he would wish him selfe the greatest curse in the world , and to be a woman rather then a man vpon such termes . I saw also a marriage here performed with many ceremonyes . Returning out of the Jewry by the same gate I entred , I saw on my left hand , the Pallace of Princ Sauelli : its built vpon the ruines of the Theater of Marcellus , built by Augustus in honour of his Nephew Marcellus : it was capable of fourscore thousand men . Passing on , I came to an ancient Church called Santa Maria in Cosmedin , or in Schola Graeca , where S. Austin before his conuersion , taught Rhetorick . In the portch of this Church stands a great round stone cut into the face of a man , with a great wide mouth , commonly called , La bocca della Verità , The mouth of Truth ; but this not being affirmed by the Mouth of truth , I dare not beleeue it . I rather beleeue it serued in some old building for a gutter spout : I know , truth may speake lowd , and haue a wide mouth ; but he that takes euery wide mouth for the mouth of Truth , is much mistaken . The next Church I came to was Santa Maria Egyptiaca : it was the Temple of the Sun and Iupiter . This Church is neatly adorned with curious chanelled pillars . It belongs to the Armenians , who haue an Hospital also here belonging to the Catholick Pilgims of that country : and the Pope allowes them to celebrate Masse here after their owne Armenian rite . On the other side of the great piazza , stands the Church of S. Steuen . It s rounded with chanelled pillars also . It was anciently the Temple of Iuno Matutina morneing Iuno , or Alba Dea , the Breake of day Goddesse : a Goddesse which our Ladyes , that neuer rise till noone , would neuer haue been deuout to . Close by this Church ( which stands by the riuer side ) the great Sinke of Rome , called Cloaca Maxima , emptyed it self into Tyber . And though this were but a Sinke , yet it deserues to be mentioned among the rare magnificencies of ancient Rome . For it was noblely built by Tarquinius Priscus , of freestone , arched ouerhead , with a world of springs running into it : and it was so great , that a Cart might haue gone in it . This sink was one of the evident tokens of the greatness and magnificence of Rome anciently ; and indeed a farre greater euidence then that of Heliogabulus , who caused all the spiders webbs of Rome to be gathered together and weighed , that by so many poundweight of Spiders-webbs , the greatness of Rome might the better be conjectured . Going on from hence by the riuer side , I came to the foot of the Mount Auentin and left on my left hand a Chappel belonging to the Knights of Malta . Our antiquaries tell vs , that neare to this place stood the Temple of the Bona Dea , into which no man was to enter : and that Cacus his denn was also in the side of this Hill , into which he dragd Hercules his oxen by the tayles , that no man should finde out his theft by the footsteps . Vpon the side of this hill stood also the Scalae Gemoniae , downe which criminal persons were tumbled into Tiber. Going vp this Hill I went to S. Alexius his Church , where I saw , the wooden staires vnder which this Saint lodged for seauenteen years in his owne Fathers house ( after fifteen years absence ) without being knowne to any body , till after his death . The body of this Saint lyes vnder the high Altar , together with that of S. Bonifacius the Martyr . Hard by vpon the same Hill , stands S. Sabinas Church , whither the Pope comes vpon Ash wensday in a solemne caualcata accompanyed with the Cardinals . Here also vpon this Hill , stood anciently the Temple of Liberty and the Romans Armilustrium . Descending from hence I made towards S. Pauls Gate ; and in the way I saw on my right hand the Hill called Mons Testiacius , which was made of the broken pots throwne there in the Romans time by the Potters . It s half a mile about , and 160 foot high . A little nearer the Gate of S. Peul I saw the Tombe of Caius Cestius , built like a Piramid of Egypt , and all of pure white marble . This is the most entire worke of all the ancient Roman works . This Cestius ( as the words vpon his Tombe importe ) was septemuir epulonum , that is , one of those seauen men called Epulones anciently , because they had the deuouring of those banquets which were set before the Gods in their Lectisterniis , in the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus . Passing thence through the Gate of S. Paul , anciently called Porta Tergemina ; and Porta Ostiensis ; I went to S. Pauls Church a little mile from the towne . In the way I tooke notice of a little Chappel on the left hand , where S. Peter and S. Paul tooke leaue of one another ; before they were led to Martyrdome . Soone after I came to S. Pauls Church ▪ here S. Paul was buryed by Lucina a Roman Lady , and therefore Constantin the Great built this Church in the honour of S. Paul as he had done that of S. Peter mentioned aboue . It s built crosse-wise , and the body of it is 477 foot long , and 258 broad ; with a hundred pillars in all , set in four ranks , all of them ancient round marble pillars taken out of the Baths of Antoniuns , sayth Vassari . Yet in all this vast body of the Church there are no Chappels , nor any decoration , except at the very end of it , neare the great dore , where there is an Altar with these words in a stone ouer it ; Hic inuentum est caput S. Pauli . The most remarkable things which I saw here , were these . 1. The high Altar , with a Canopy of stone like a Tabernacle , borne vp by four porphyry pillars , and adorned with statues . Vnder the Altar reposeth half of the bodyes of S. Peter and S. Paul ( as I obserued before in S. Peters Church ) and as the inscription vpon the side of the Altar here affirmes in these words : Sub hoc altari requiescunt gloriosa corpora Apostolorum Petri & Pauli pro medietate . Behind this Altar stāds the Confession of S. Paul like that of S. Peter described aboue . Vnder the little low dores which let the Priest into the steps of the Altar are written these words in golden letters , Limina Apostolorum , which make me bold to hold against some moderne writers , that this was the precise place , and not the dore of the Church , which was called Limina Apostolorum . 2. In the old Arche in the top of the roof , is yet seen a peece of Masaick worke representing our Sauiour in the midst of the four and twenty Elders of the Apocalypse . This peece was made there twelue hundred yeares ago in the time of S. Leo the great ; and at the cost of Placidia Galla ( daughter of Theodosius , and sister of Honorius ) as the two verses in that Arch testify thus : Placidiae pia mens operis decus homne reportat , Gaudet Pontificis studio splender● Leonis . 3. The famous Miraculous Crucifix ( standing in a Chappel on the Epistle side of the High Altar ) which spoke to S. Bridgit . This Crucifix fauours the opinion of those who affirme that there were two nayles in our Sauiours feet . 4. The neat Chappel and Tabernacle of the B. Sacrament ; with the rare pictures relating there vnto , made by Caualier Lanfranco . 5. The picture of the Altar of S. Steuen made by a Lady of Bolognia called Lauinia Fontana . 6. The chief Relicks kept here are , the Head of the Samaritan woman conuerted by our Sauiour : the Arme of S. Anne mother of our blessed Lady : and the Chaine of S. Paul. From S. Pauls Church I went to the Tre Fontane aboue a mile and a half off , and in the way , I passed ouer the place where S. Zeno , and ten thousand Christians were martyried at once by the command of Diocletian the Butcher . Their blood made this way holy all along . Arriueing at the Tre Fontane I saw there three Churches standing within a place anciently called , Ad Aquas Saluias . The first of these three Churches is that of S. Vincent and Anastase , because of their Relicks sent hither . For about the yeare 627. the Emperor Heraclius sent the Head of S. Anastasius with the picture of the same Saint vnto Pope Honorius the First . A courteous Father , of S. Bernards Order here , did me the fauour to shew me neare the high Altar , this Head , and this Picture . These two are most authentical things ; for the attestation of them is in the very Acts of the second Concil of Nice held an . 789 , where to prooue the lawfullness of sacred Images against the Iconoclasts , ●●e sacred Council cites a miracle wrought by this very picture of S. Anastasius : and Baronius quotes diuers others wrought by the same picture . In the second Church here , to wit , the little round Church on the righ● hand , there is a famous picture of S. Bernards Extasis . Vnder this Church I was led into a Vault where many of the bodyes of the foresayd ten thousand Christians , who were martyred with S. Zeno , are buryed . This vault goes a mile vnder-ground . In the third place stands the little Church of the Tre Fontane , so called because S. Paul was here beheaded , and where his head iumpt thrice , three fountains gushed out . Vpon an Altar on the left hand , is an excellent Picture of S. Peters crucifixion , of the hand of Guido Rheni . On the other side is seen a little block ( within an yron grate ) vpon which they say S. Pauls head was cut off . Going from hence I went ouer the fields to the Church of the Annuntiata one of the nine Churches of Rome visited by Pilgrims ; and from thenc to S. Sebastians . S Sebastians Church , is one of the seauen Churches , and of great deuotion by reason of the Catacombes which are vnder it . Here I saw the Tombe of S. Sebastian vnder an altar on the left hand : many relicks kept ouer an altar on the right hand : and the Vault vnderneath where Pope Steuen was beheaded in his owne Seat of stone , and where S. Peters and S. Pauls bodyes were hidden many yeares . Thenc I was let into the Catacombes which are vnder this Church , and which from thenc running many miles vnder ground , made anciently a Christian Rome vnder the Heathen . There were divers of these Catacombes in the primitiue times , and they were called diuersly : Arenaria , Cryptae , Areae , Concilia Martyrum , Poliandria , but most frequently Caemeteria , that is , dormitoria , because here reposed the bodyes of the holy Martyrs and Saints qui obdormiuerunt in Domino . But the greatest of all these Caemeteria was this of Calixtus . In these Catacombes dureing the persecutions raysed against the Christians by ten Heathen Emperors , the faithfull beleeuers , together with their Popes and Pastors , vsed priuatly to meet to excercice their Religion , and steale their deuotions ; that is , to heare Masse in little round Chappels painted ouer head poorely ; Minister the Sacraments ; bury the dead Martyrs and Confessors in the walls of the long alleys , preach , hold conferences ; and euen celebrate Councils too sometimes . I descended seueral times into seueral parts of these Catacombes with a good experienced guide ( which you must besure of ) and with waxe lights ( torches being too stifeling ) and wandered them vp and downe with extraordinary satisfaction of minde . The streets vnder ground are cut out with mens hands and mattocks . They are as high as a man , for the most part , & no broader then for two men to meet . All the way long , the sides of these Alleys are full of holes , as long as a man , and sometimes there are three rowes , one ouer an other , in which they had buryed their Martyrs and Confessors : and that posterity might afterwards know which were Martyrs , which Confessors ; they engraued vpon the stone which mur'd them vp , or vpon one of the bricks , a Palme branch , in signe of a Martyr ; and a Pro Christo in Cyphers for a Confessor . It s recorded , that during the forsayd persecutions , a hundred seauenty four thousand Martyrs were buryed here in this Cametery of Calixtus : among whom were nineteen Popes Martyrs . Hence these Catacombes haue alwayes been esteemed as a place of great deuotion , and much frequented by deuout persons . The words ouer the dore , as you descend into them from the Church of S. Sebastian , tell you , how S. Hierome confesseth , that he vsed euery Sunday and Holyday , during his stay in Rome , to go to these Catacombes . And a picture hung ouer the same dore sheweth how S. Philip Neri vsed to frequent these holy places in the night ; and from whence , I beleeue , he sucked that true spirit of the primitiue Church , which reigned in him , and still reigneth in the breasts of his most vertuous children , the pious Priests of the Oratory of Rome , whom I must alwayes prayse wheresouer I find them , because I alwayes find them either writeing holy things , or liuing them ; that is , either writeing books fit to be liued , or liuing liues fit to be written . Indeed its incredible how much the presence of these Holy Martyrs bodyes , hath sanctifyed this place : in so much that no man enters into the catacombes but he comes better out , then he went in . Catholicks come out farre more willing to dye for that faith , for which so many of their ancesters haue dyed before them . The Aduersaryes of the Roman Church come out more staggered in their fayth , and more milde towards the Catholick Religion , to see what piety there is euen in the bowels of Rome ; Atheists come out with that beleef ▪ that surely there is a God , seing so many thousands of Martyrs haue testifyed it with their blood . From S. Sebastians I went to the place hard by called Capo di Boue standing vpon the Via Appia . It is a great building faced about with marble stones . It was the Sepulcher of Metella wife of rich Crassus . It s now called Capo di Boue because of the oxe heads cut in marble which compose the cornice that runns about the top of this Moles . Entering into it you will wonder at the thickness of the walls which are aboue eight ells thick . It was begun to be pulled downe , especialy the great marble stones on the outside of it , to make vp the Fontana di Treui ; but Cardinal Barberino would not suffer it to be so defaced . Close by stand the ruines of the Pretorium , the Quarters of the Pretorian Bands , which the Emperours lodged here , a little out of the throng of the towne , that they might not occasion so easily tumults ; and that they might exercise themselues often in the Circo of Caracalla which was hard by . This Circus was made by the Emperor Caracalla , and is the most entire of all the Circos that were in Rome . You see where the Carceres , or starting place was , where the Meta ; where the Guglia were . You see how long it was , and the walls yet show you what compasse it carryed . In the midst of it stood that Guglia which now stands in the midst of Piazza Nauona . I saw it lye here broken in three peeces , and neglected quite till the Earle of Arundel our late Lord Mareshal , Offering to buy it & hauing already depositated threescore crownes in earnest for it , made the Romans begin to think that it was some fine thing , and stop the transporting of it into England . At last it light vpon a good stone-setter , who joyned it so well together that it now stands streight againe vpon a rare basis , and adornes the very heart of Rome : Thanks to that ingenious architect Caualier Bernini who set it vp there in the anno Sancto , & whom it set vp too againe in the Popes fauour Innocent the X. which he had lost , by a crack in the roof of the Portch of S. Peters Church , caused by the heauy steeple which he had placed vpon it . Neare the end of the Circus of Caracalla , stands an old round Temple , with an other little Ante-Temple , close ioyned to it ; and out of which you go into the other . what if this were the Temple of Honour ? into which there was no passage , but through the Temple of Vertue , which was ioyned close to it , as this is : to manifest , that Vertue is the way to Honour . Now its certain that these two Temples stood not farre from the Porta Carpena ( now called S. Sebastians gate ) as these two do . But I declare , that this is but ghesing . Hard by the forsayd old Temple there is an Eccho which heretofore ( as they say ) would repeat after you a whole verse of Virgil , but if so , it was my fortune to finde her when she had catched a cold : for I could get nothing from her but the two last words of a sentence . Indeed Ausonius calls the Eccho , the tayle of words ; and symposius sayth , that the Eccho is like a modest Virgin : which speaks nothing but when she is asked . Returning from S. Sebastians towards the towne againe , I passed by a little Chappel called , Domine quo Vadis ? and ancienthy called , Sancta Maria ad passus . It s called Domine quo vadis ? because our Saviour appareing here to S. Peter flyeing out of the prison of Rome , was asked by Peter , Domine , quo vadis ? Lord whither go you ? And he answered : Vado Romam vt ibi iterum ●rucifigar . J am going to Rome , there to be crucifyed againe : which words Peter vnderstanding rightly , of Christs suffering in his members , the faithfull beleeuers , returned againe to Rome , and was soone after crucified . In the middle of this Chappel are seen the prints of our Sauiours feet in a white marble stone with an iron grate ouer them . Entring into the towne by S. Sebastians gate , I went on streight to the Church of S. Nereus and Achilleus , of which Church Baronius was Cardinal . The bodyes of these Saints are vnder the High Altar . Cardinal Baronius caused this Church to be painted with the histories of Saints and martyrs , to excite others to deuotion by their exemples Almost ouer against this Church , stands the Church of S. Sisto with its monastery made famous by S. Dominick , who made it his habitation , and by whom God rought many miracles here . It stands in a most vnholesome place called anciently the Piscina publica , because the people vsed to wash themselues here . Here are buryed S. Sixtus , Antherus , Lucius , Lucianus , Sotherus , & Zepherinus , Popes and martyrs . Here 's a fine picture of S. Vincentius Ferrerius . From thence I went towards the the Porta Latina , and there saw the Church where S. Iohn Euangelist was put into a caldron of boyling oyle . Then Following the walls of the towne for a good while , I came at last to S. Iohn Laterans Church , the mother-Church of all Churches in the world , and the Popes Cathedral . In saying this , I haue sayd enough ; and I say this after the words which are written in the architraue ouer the Portch of this Church , and after the Bull of Gregory the XI . who declared this Church to be the Popes chief seat , and to haue the preeminency ouer the other Churches , Orbis & Vrbis ; euen ouer S. Peters Church too by name . It was built by Constanti● the Great vpon mount Caelius , and dedicated to our Sauiour himself , for whose sake it deserueth the headship ouer all the other Churches in the world , as he , to whom it is dedicated , is the Head of all the Elect. yet it is called diuersly by Ecclesiastical Authors , Sometimes Basilica Constantiniana , because Constantin built it : sometimes Basilica Saluatoris , because it was dedicated to our Sauiour . Sometimes Basilica S. Ioannis , because it was neare to the two Chappels dedicated to the two S. Iohns , in the Baptistery of Constantin : sometimes it was called , Basilica S. Ioannis in Laterano , or S. Iohn Laterans Church , because it was built vpon the place where Plautius Lateranus the designed Consul , had a fair house and a garden , which Nero the Tyrant made bold withall , hauing first made bold with their master , by killing him . Now this , and the other great Churches of Rome are called Basilicae , either because they are built after a Royal and stately manner , or els because they are built to the King of Kings . As for this Church of S. Iohn Lateran , It is here that the Pope taketh possession of his Papal charge , after he hath been chosen , and consecrated Bishop ( yf he were none before ) in S. Peters Church . For this reason all the chief Episcopal functions of the particular Diocese of Rome , are performed here ; as the consecrating of Bishops and Priests , the conferring of the Sacrament of Confirmation : the Baptizeing of conuerted Iewes and Infidels . For this reason its looked vpon by the Popes with great respect , and hath been not onely beautifyed by them with costly decorations , such as those , that Clement the VIII , and Innocent the X made ; but also fauoured by them with great prerogatiues ; one declareing by his Papal Decree , that this is the Mother Church of all Churches ; another fixeing her the euery altar it self ( of wood ) on which S. Peter and the primitiue Popes had offered Sacrifice ; another allowing the Clergy if this Church the precedency ouer the Clergy of all other Churches in publick processions , and to carry before them two Crucifixes ; another fixeing here the Heads of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. As for the things most to betaken notice of here , they are these . 1. The Soffita or roof of this Church most richly guilt . 2. The body of the Church all made new almost by Pope Innocent the X , as to the inside of it . 3. The rare painting that runns crosse the Church from the stately Organs to the Altar of the B. Sacrament , containing the chief actions of Constantin the Great , and other histories . That of the Ascension of our Sauiour , with the Apostles looking vp after him , is of the hand of Caualier Gioseppe . The Histories and figures about the Chariot of Constantin , are of the hand of Bellardino . That of the apparition of our Sauiour , that of Mount Soracte , that oueragainst Constantins Baptisme , are all of the hand of Paris Romano . That of the Baptisme of Constantin is of the hand of Caualier Ricelli . In the Quire of the Canons the picture of the S. John is of the hād of Cauallier Gioseppe . In fine , the picture of our Sauiour in the very Tribuno , or Abside , was the first picture that appeared publickly in Rome , and which was miraculously cōserued in the burning of this church There are diuers in others pictures in that Vaulted Tribun in Masaick worke ; and some simbolical figures relating to our Sauiours life and passion , which were much vsed anciently in Churches , as you may see in many other Churches , and in the rare booke called , Roma Soterranea . 4. The High Altar here , within which is shut vp the Woodden Altar which S. Peter and the primitiue Popes made vse of in saying Masse vpon it during the persecutions , and before they had any setled Churches . S. Syluester in the dedication of this Church , fixed it here , and none can say Masse at this Altar , but the Pope , or dureing the Popes indisposition some Cardinal , with a particular dispensation , or Apostolical Brief which must be fastened to one of the four pillars of the Altar , during the Cardinals saying Masse there . Ouer this Altar stands a great Tabernacle of Marble borne vp by four pillars , not onely seruing for a Canopy to the Altar , but also for an Arca to the Heads of S. Peter and S. Paul which are kept within it , and showne there to the people vpon great dayes through an iron grate which enuirons them . 5. The Altar of the B. Sacrament adorned by the cost of Clement the VIII , With a curious and pretious Tabernacle of rich polished stones , and with four pillars of brasse guilt , about fifteen foot high . Ouer this Altar is the Table it self vpon which our Sauiour eat the Paschal Lambe before his Passion , and then presently instituted the Holy Sacrament , of which the Paschal Lambe was but a figure . 6. The brasen Tombe of Martin the V , of the house of Colonna , who was chosen Pope in the Council of Constance . 7. The Tombe of Alexander the III , of the house of Bandinelli in Siena , neatly adorned by Pope Alexander the VII , who tooke his name of Alexander from him . 8. The Tombe of Laurentius Valla a learned Roman , and Chanon of this Church ; of whom , as the restorer of pure Latin language after Gotick Barbarousness , Latonius sung thus : Romulus est Vrbis , Valla est idiomatis author : Hic reparat primus , primus vt ille str●it . 9. In old Gotick Letters vpon the Architraue of the portch of this Church you read these Leonine verses , Dogmate Papali datur ac simul Jmperiali . Quòd sim Cunctarum Mater & Caput Ecclesiarum . 10. In the Cloister of this Church , I saw the Chaire of Porphiry , which vseth to be placed neare to the Great dore of the Church on that day the Pope taketh possession of his charge in this Church ; in which Chaire the Pope is placed a while , and at his riseing from it againe , the Quire sings this verse of the 112 Psalme , Suscitat de puluere egenum & de stercore eregit pauperem : and this Ceremony and pierced Chair are onely to put the Pope in minde of his humane infirmityes , amidst His glorious exaltations , and the peoples applauses . For so also the Greek Emperors on the day of their coronation , had a great many marble stones , of seueral colours , presented to them , to choose which of them they would , to make their Tombe of . This was , to put them in mind of their mortality admidst those great honours . But it s strange to see how the enemies of the Popes , giue out maliciously , that this Chair ( whose vse we see so plainly in the vety Ceremonial of Rome ) was onely intended , ad explorandum sexum , and to hinder the inconueniency of another Pope Ioanne . For this reason I think it not amisse to examin a little this fable of a shee Pope , or of a Pope Ioanne . I am not affrayd at all to call this a fable , both for the vnlikelinesse of it in generall ; as also for the suspected authority of its first broachers ; the contrarietyes in the story ; and the little credit giuen vnto it by the learnedest aduersaryes of the Roman Church . First , what can be more vnlikely then that a woman should surprise such a wise nation as the Italians are , and so grossely ? what more vnlikely , then that a woman should passe her youth in those seuere studyes , which are required in Popes , without being knowne to have wrongd , or discouered her sexe ; and that she must just do it , when she was in a declineing age , at which age Popes ordinarily are chosen ? What more vnlikely , then that a woman findeing her self great with child , should venture to go so farre a foot in a procession ? What more vnlikely , then that , if there had been such a shee Pope , the Greek Church ( which then was at odds with the Roman Church ) should haue passed it ouer in silence , and not haue obraided her with such a disgracefull Pastor , especially seing the Roman Church had obraided the Greek Church with hauing an Eunuch for her chief Patriarch ? What in fine more vnlikely then that there should haue been such a shee Pope so publikly conuinced to haue been a woman , & that Anastasius Bibliothecarius who worte the liues of the Popes some thirty yeares after that pretended time , and who must haue liued in her time , speaks nothing of any such woman , or any such strange accident ? Secondly , the first broachers of this story make it Very much suspected , seing Martinus Polonus , and some others of the Emperors faction ( then at Vari●nce with the Popes ) are the first that mentioned this fable : and Platina , who quotes no higher authors for it , grounds a story of this consequence vpon no better authority then a weake , si dice , us fayd . Thirdly , the apparent contradictions in the Tale , conuince it of falsity : as that this Ioanne was an English woman borne in Mentz , which all men know to be a Rhenish towne in Germany : and that she had studyed at Athenes in Greece , which long before this time had been destroyed . Fourthly , the little credit giuen to it by the learnedest aduersaryes of the Roman Church , to wit , four prime Ministers of France ( who take this history for a meere fable ) proues sufficiently that its worse then an old wifes tale . For M. Blondel a French Minister ( whom I knew in Paris aboue twenty yeares ago ) and a man of that account there , that he was chosen to answer the learned booke of Cardinal Peron : this Blondel , I say , made a booke in French ( printed at Amsterdam by Bleau Anno 1647 in octauo ) On purpose to shew , that this story of a shee Pope called Joanne , was a meere fable . And that we may not think that Blondel alone of all Protestant Ministers , held this for a Fable , Monsieur Serrauius a great Caluinist and Counselor of the Parlament of Paris , in a letter of his to Salmasius , hauing mentioned to him this booke of Blondel , addeth these words : Noli autem credere primum aut solum è nostris Blondellum ita sensisse : quamuis Fortassis nemo vnquam fortius & pressius istud solum conclaueait . Fuere enim in eadem sententia non incelebres inter Reformatos Theologi : & adhuc vigent in hac Vrbe insignes fide & pietate viri , qui audierunt ex ore Camerii , se istam historiam Vulgo creditam , fabulosis deputare . Vidi nuper scriptas literas docti & vegeti senis , tibique & mihi amicissimi , Petri Molinaei , quibus idem semper sibi esse visum affirmabat . Penes me sunt literae Samuelis Bocharti , quibus testatur sibi esse pro comperto vanum & fictitium , quicquid hactenus de ea sit proditum . Thus Monsieur Serrauius in a priuate letter ( though his sonn after his death printed his litters ) to a freind of the same religion : And thus you see , how this fable maintained highly a long time by the Aduersaries of the Roman Church , expired at last ( as all lyes do ) and was carryed to its graue vpon the shoulders of four French Ministers , Blondel , Chamier , du Moulin , and Bochart . If I haue been a little too long in this digression you will pardon me : We are all debtors to Truth ; and all men ought to be glad to see themselues disabused . Going out of the little back dore of this Church , I went to see the Baptistery of Constantin the Great , Our most Noble Countryman , and the first Emperour that publickly professed Christianity . This Baptistery is built round , and in the center of it , in a descent of four steps , stands the very Font , in which the sayd Emperor was baptized by Pope Syluester . It s enuironed with low rayles of marble , and adorned with ten , or twelue great pillars of Porphyrie ( the fairest in Rome ) which beare vp the painted Vault ouer the Font : so that people standin about these rayles , may see conueniently the baptizeing of Jewes and Infidels in the pitt below . Vpon the Walls of the round Chappel , are painted in Fresco , the most memorable actions of Constantin the Great : as his Vision of the Crosse in the ayre , with these words aboue it , In hoc signo Vinces : his ouercomeing the Tyrant Maxentius ; his baptisme here by S. Siluester : his burning the Libels against Catholike Bishops , preferred to him by the Arrians : his kissing the wounds of those good Bishop in the Council of Nice , who had either their fingars cut off , or one eye put out by the Tyrants . On the other side of S. Iohn Laterans Church , stands the Scala Santa , and the Sancta Sanctorum . The Scala Santa is called from the stairs , twenty eight in all , vp which our Sauiour was led in this passion to Pilats house . Vpon some of them you see the places where the pretious blood of our Sauiour had fallen : and for that reason they are couered with little grates of brasse , which let in eyes , but keep of knees : I say knees ; for none go vp these holy stairs otherwise then kneeling , and this out of reuerence to him who often fell vpon his knees , as he was draggd vp and downe these stairs . It s painfull enough to go vp these stairs vpon your knees ; yet I saw it done hourly in the Iubily yeare , by continual flocks of deuout people both men and women ; of great condition as well as of great deuotiō ▪ these holy staires were Sent from Hierusalem to Constantin the Great , by his Moter Queen Helen , together with many other Relicks kept in S. Iohn Laterans Church . They are of whit marble , and aboue six foot long . At the head of these stairs stands the Chappel called Sancta Sanctorum , because of the Holy things kept in it . Hence ouer the Altar in this Chappel , are written these words . Non est in toto Sanctior Orbe Locus . Vpon the Altar is kept the miraculous picture of our Sauiour , it represents him about thirteen yeares old , and onely his half body . It s about a foot & a halfe long : and it s sayd to haue been begun by S. Luke , but ended miraculously by an Angel. Others say , that S. Luke hauing onely prepared the ground , and before he had drawne one stroke , fell to his prayers to beg of God that he might draw his Son right , and riseing vp againe he found his picture already finished . Hence Domenico Magri ( a learned Antiquarie ) is of opinion , that this pisture of our Sauiour is that very picture which Anastasius B●bliothecarius in the life of Steuen the II , calls Achyropaeta , that is , made without hands . Round about this picture goes a set of great iewels enriching the frame of it . Vnder the Altar reposeth the body of S. Anastasius , of whose head and picture I spoke aboue in the description of the Church of this Saint at the Tre Fontane . Here are also kept the Heads of S. Agnes and S. Praxedes , with many other pretious Relicks . Anciently , ( as the Records here mention ) the Holy Prepuce , or Foreshin of our Sauiour was kept here too : but being taken away in the sack of Rome , by one of Bourbons soldiers , it was left in a a country towne called Calcata , some fifteen wiles distant from Rome by the same soldier , who could not rest day nor night , as long as he had that relick about him . I once passed by that towne ( Calcata ) by chance , and by the ciuilityes of the Lord of the towne , Count of Anguillara , at whose house we were nobly entertained all night , had the happiness the next morning , to see this pretious Relick through the crystal case : This Count keeps one key of it , and the Parish Priest the other , without both which it cannot be seen . Neare to the Scala Santa is seen a famous peece of Antiquity of Christian Rome , called Triclinium Leonis : where is seen a Mosaick picture of our Sauiour resuscitated , and holding out a booke to his Disciples , in which are written these words : Pax vobis : Peace be to you : Which picture Leo caused to be made eight hundred yeares ago , as an emblem of his peaceable returne againe to his seat , after he had been chased out by his enemyes . Vpon a pillar on the right hand , is painted our Sauiour sitting vpon a Throne , and giuing with one hand , the Keys of the Church to S. Peter , and with the other , the Imperial standard to Constantin the Great . Vpon the other pillar on the left hand , is represented in Mosaick worke also , S. Peter sitting in a Chair , and with one hand giuing vnto Pope Leo the III the Papal stole ; and with the other , the Imperial standard vnto Charlemagne , who had restored this Pope Leo to his seat againe . From hence passing againe by S. Iohn Lateran● Church , I saw first , the pallace of the Pope here , built by Sixtus Quintus : then the great Guglia ( with Egyptian Hyeroglyphes figured vpon it ) which had stood anciently in the Circus Maximus : it s aboue 100 foot high , & was brought from Alexandria to Rome by Constantin the Great ▪ lastly in a low roome ioyning to the Church , I saw the Statue in Bronze of Henry the IV of France , set vp here by the Canons of S. Iohn Laterans , for hauing caused ten thousand crownes a yeare to be restorest to this Church , which was due to it in France . I looked also into the faire Hospital which stands hard by the foresayd Church , and so well serued and tended , that many person of quality in their sickness desire to be transferred hither , that they may be better looked to , then they can be at home . Takeing the wall of the old Aquiduct of Claudius along with me I went to San Stefano Rotondo , standing vpon the Mount Caelius too . This Church now belongs to the Seminarists of the German Colledge . Vpon the round walls are painted curiously the martyrdoms of ancient martyrs , with the diuers instruments of the Heathens , wherewith they tormented the poore Christians . Ouer against this Church stands the Church of Santa Maria della Nauicella , so called from a little stone ship which stands before it , being a vow of certain boatmen . This Church in ancient authors , is called in Dominica , or in Ciriaca because of a holy woman called Ciriaca , in whose house here , S. Laurence distributed all the Church goods , hee as Deacon had in his hands , vnto the poore . Hard by stands the Villa of the Duke Matthei , where I saw the neat house full of curious statues , and crusted on the outside with rare anticaglie . Among the rest I tooke particular notice of the Heads of Brutus and Porcia , man & wife in one stone : the statues of Cleopatra : of Hercules : of three little boyes sleeping and hugging one another : the head of Cicero rarely wel cut : the statue of Marcus Aurelius . A rare table of pretious stones . In an other house here ( looking towards San Sisto ) I saw the incomparable Statue of Andromeda exposed to the Sea Monster , it s of pure white marble , and of the hand of Oliuiero . That other there of Apollo fleaing Marsias , is an excellent peece too , and in white marble : so is also that of the Satyre pluking a thorne out of his foot . The curious alley , waterworks , grotts , walkes , wetting places , and the intricate labyrinth , are all very delightsome . Descending from hence I went to the old Amphitheater , called now the Coliseo , because of a Colossean statue that stood in it . This is one of the rarest peeces of antiquity in Rome ; and though Rome be growne againe , by her new pallaces , one of the finest Cyties of Europe , yet her very ruines are finer then her new buildings . And though I am not ignorant how Rome , since her Ladiship gouerned the world , and was at her greatness , hath been six seueral times ruined , and sacked , by the enuy and auarice of barbarous nations ( Visegoths , Wandals , Erules , Ostrogoths , Totila who set fire on Rome 18 dayes together , and the Germans vnder Bourbon ) whose malice was so great against Rome , that of thirty six Triumphal Arches once in Rome , there remaine but four now visibly appearing ; that often Thermae anciently , but two remain any way visible ; that of seuen Circos , but one now appeares ▪ yet as of fair Ladyes , there remain euen in their old age , fair rests of comelinesse : so the very ruines of Rome which malice could not reach to , nor auarice carry away , are yet so comely , that they rauish still the beholders eye with their beautyes , and make good the saying of an ancient author , that Roma iacens quoque miraculo est : Rome is a miracle euen in its ruines . Bvt to returne to the Coliseo ; it s an other wonder of the world : and I wonder indeed , how such prodigious stones could either be layd together in a building , or being layd together , could fall . Vespasian began it ; but Domitian finished it ; and Martial flattered it as a wonder which outstript all the wonders of Egypt , and its Pyramids . It was of a prodigious height , as that part of it yet standing sheweth . The forme of it was round without , & oual within , and the out side of it was adorned with tho three orders of pillars ; great Arches below , open galleries aboue , both to walke in , and to let people into the Amphitheater , and out againe without crowding : so that two hundred thousand people could go in , or out , in half an houres time , with out crowding . Within , it went vp from below by steps of stone vnto the top : and afforded roome enough to all that world of people , to sit conueniently , and see the combats and sports that were exhibited in the Arena . Anciently the top of it was set rownd with Statues ; and in time of great heats or raynes , it was all ouerspred with great sayles . From its roundish forme it got the name of Amphitheater , from seeing on all sides . Vnderneth were the caues for the wild beasts , out of which they turned them loose to feight , sometimes against condemned men ; sometimes against innocēt Christians . Nero made the Christians be clad in the skins of beasts ; and so to be exposed to Lyons and Bears . Sometimes also gladiators fought against gladiators ; and one gladiator against twenty others : nay the very noble Romans themselues would now and then feight here publickly , either to shew sport . or valour . And all this was done by the politick Romans , to teach men not to be affrayd of bloodshed and death in time of warres , with which they had been so acquainted in time of peace . The old round rubbage of brick which is here neare the Anphitheater , was anciently a fine Fountain called Meta Sudans , seruing for the vse of those that came to the sports here . It was all faced with marble , and had a Statue of Jupiter of brasse vpon it . Hard by stands the Triumphal Arch of Constantin the Great . It s all of marble , with a world of curious statues anciently , but now headless , and with histories in bassi rilieui . It was erected to him in memory of his victory ouer the Tyrant Maxentius , as to the Freer of the Citie , and Founder of publick Quiet . As the words here import , Liberatori Vrbis , Fundatori Quietis . From hence I went to the Church of S. John and Paul ; and thene to S. Gregories Church , which anciently had been his house . They shew vs yet the place , and the table , where this holy man , in recompence of his charitable hospitality to the poore , deserued to haue an Angel , and the Lord of Angels for his guests . He treated dayly here 12 poore men , in honour of the 12 Apostles . In one of the Chappels you see a fine statue of white marble of S. Gregory , in his Pontifical robes ; it was erected to his honour by Cardinal Baronius , who was a deuout admirer of him . In the garden belonging to the monastery of S. Gregory , there is to be seen a Caue in which I saw vpon the wall some old painting of the highest times of Pagan Rome : pittifull stuff , yet considerable for its ancientness . From hence I went to the Bathes or Thermae , of the Emperour Antoninus , lookeing more like a towne , then a bathing place . Indeed Ammianus Marcellinus out throws mee , and calls these , and the other Thermae in Rome , Lauacra in modum Prouinciarum exstructa : Bathing places built like prouinces . And iudge whether of vs hath more reason , by that which we read in the Exceptis Olymp●odori , where it s sayd , that these bathes of Antoninus had a thousand six hundred seats of polished marble ; for as many persons to sit and bath in a part : nay , some of those bathing places were paued with syluer , and were adorned so curiously with syluer pipes for the water , with statues , pictures , and pretious stones , that Seneca cryes out : Eo deliciarum Venimus , vt nisi gemmas cal●●re nolimus ; we are comne to that delicacy that we scorne to trend vpon any thing but jewels : Now these bathes serue onely for the Roman Seminarists to recreate in . Returning from hence between the Mount Auentin and the Mount Palatin , I saw the place where the Circus Maximus stood . This was the greatest of all the Circos in Rome , as its name shews . It was begun by Tarquinius Priscus , but afterwards much augmented by Iulius Caesar , and Augustus . It was three stades long , and four akers wide ( The Roman stade was 625 foot , or 125 paces ) At last it was adorned with statues , and pillars by Traian and Heliogabulus . A hundred and fifty thousand men could sit conueniently in the three open galleryes . One of which was for the Senators , the second for the gentlemen , and the third for the common people . The two great Obelicks , to wit , that before Porta del Populo , and that before S. Iohn Laterans stood in it . Vnder this building were many Vaulted Caues called in Latin , Fornices , where lewd women prostituted themselues for money , and so from these Fornices came the word Fornication . Going from hence to S. Georges Church , I saw on my right hand , the goodly ruines of the Emperors pallace , called Palazzo Maggiore . It possessed almost all the Palatin hill , as the ruines shew . Stately ruines I confesse : but ruines , and Imperiall ruines . And here I could not but wonder to see , the pallace of the persecuting Emperors ruined quite , and the Church of the poore Fisherman standing still , more glorious then euer . Before I came to S. Georges Church I stept into S. Anastasias Church , which was anciently the Temple of Neptune : and from thence to the old square Temple , commonly held to be the Temple of Ianus Quadrifrons : and with some reason , because it hath four dores in it , and twelue Niches vpon euery side of the squar out side . The four dores represented the four Seasons of the yeare : the twelue niches , the twelue months of the yeare : yet others will haue it to haue been onely an Arche , or Portick ▪ or a Lodge : Georges Church hard by to which Church is ioyned on old Arche curiously carued in marble , which was erected here , by the marchants , or goldsmiths , to the Emperours Seuerus , and M. Aurelius . Neare vnto this Church of S. George came anciently the water of Tyber : and this water or creek of the riuer , was called Velabrum , because men passed ouer the riuer here by boat , and sometime with a little sayle , when the wind stood fair . From hence I went to the round Church of S. Theodoro standing in the Foro Boario . This was anciently the Temble of Romulus and Remus , because it was here that those two brothers where exposed , and nurrished by a shee woolf which found them here . Not farre from hence I stept into the Hospital of our Lady of Consolation . This was once the Temple of Vesta . And here it was that the Vestal Virgins ( instituted by Numa ) kept the Eternal fire ; the extinguishing of which was held by the superstitious Heathnes , fatal to the state ; and therefore they comitted the keeping of this fire to Virgins of great repute and honour . These Virgins were to be ten years in learning their profession , ten yeares more in exerciseing it , and other ten yeares more in teaching it to others . And for this reason , they had great priuiledges giuen them . For if in going vp and downe the City , they met by chance , a criminel man going to be executed , they had power to free him . If any of these Vestals forgetting her self had wrongd her Virginity , they would not , out of reuerence to her profession , lay Violent hands on her by the common executioner , but they buryed her aliue in a low vault made for the nonce . From hence I entered into the Campo Vaccino , and presently fell vpon three pillars of admirable structure : They helondg to the Temple of Iupiter Stator built by Romulus : The occasion was this . Romulus in a battle against the Sabins , seing his men giue back , made a vow presently to Iupiter that if he would stop their flight and make them stand to it , he would build him a Temble : Siste foedam fugam , sayd he to Jupiter : The men stood , and the Temple was built to Iupiter stator who made men stand . But this Iupiter Stator could not make his owne Temple stand ; for it s now so ruined , that antiquaryes are scarce sure where it stood . Close to these three pillars stands the Church of Santa Maria Liberatrice at the fott of the Pallatin hill . Why this Church is so called , both a long writeing in the Church , and Baronius in his Annals , tell at length . Neare to this Church stood the Lacus C●rtii , a stincking puddle which annoyd the Romans much , and which the Oracle assured was not to be stopt vp but by casting into it the most pretious thing in Rome . Hereupon the Ladyes threw in their best iewels ; and the noblemen euery one what he had the most pretious , but all in Vaine . At last Curtius a braue yong nobleman , thinking that there was nothing more pretious then a gallant man ; mounting on horseback in a braue equipage , in sight of all the people , iumpt into this Lake aliue , as a victime deuoted to his countries seruice ; and the hole hereupon closed . I confesse , a braue Caualier is a pretious iewel indeed : and I remember that a Roman Lady hauing shewed her iewels to Cornelia the mother of the Grachi , and hauing desired her to shew also her iewels , she called for her two yong sonns ( braue youths ) and sayd ; here Madame , are my iewels : and in my opinion , Curtius was somewhat vainglorious , to think himself to be the brauest man in the Citie : if the Votes and iudgment of all the people had declared him to be so ( as they did afterwards declare Scipio Nasita to be the best man of all the Romans ; and the matrons declared sulpitia to be the chastest matron of her time ) then he might haue deuoted himself more freely for his countrys safety . Going on from hence on the right hand still , I came to the dore of Farneses garden . This garden stands vpon the Mount Palatin where anciently the Emperors had their Pallace ; which tooke vp all the vpper part of this hill , but not all the skirts of it : for I finde , that the Goddesse Feauer , and the Goddesse Viriplaca had their Temples here , and Catalin and Cicero their houses . Entring into this Garden I found some pretty waterworks and grottes at the entrance , and fine high walks aboue , ouerlooking the place where the Circus Maximus stood anciently . The scholers of the English Colledge in Rome haue a peece of this Hill for their Vinia and recreation place , to breath on vpon dayes of Vacancy . Following still my right hand , I came to the Arche of Titus : a Triumphal Arche erected to him vpon his victory ouer the Iews . Hence you see here engrauen in mezzo rilieuo the sayd Emperour in a Triumphant Chariot : and on the other side , the Holy Candlestick of the Temple of Hierusalem , the Arke of the Alliance , and the Tables of the Law , which this Emperour brought with him after his takeing of Hierusalem , to grace his Triumph . This is the most ancient Triumphal Arche in Rome , and it stood in the Via Sacra which went vnder it . Wheeling about the Campo Vaccino , still on the right hand , I came to the Church of Sancta Francesca Romana , otherwise called Santa Maria Nuoua . Here I saw the neat Tombe of that Sa●nt in brasse guilt , made at the cost of Pope Innocent the X. Here 's also cut in white marble , and standing vpon an Altar the history of the Popes returning again to Rome from Auignon . I saw also here a rare sute of hangings belonging to this Church , and giuen by the Sister of Pope Innocent the X. Hard by , stands the Temple of Peace , that is , some remnants of that Temple . It was once the most noble of all the Temples ( as the pillar before S. Marie Maiors Great dore , which belongd to this Temple , shew●th ) It was 200 foot large , and 300 long : but now little signes of its beauty remaine : warres and time defaceing the monuments of Peace . It was built by Vespasian who placed in it the spoyles of the Temple of Hierusalem brought to Rome by Titus . Behinde this Temple stands a neat garden belonging once to Cardinal Pio , where I saw neat water works . It s now sold to another master . Going on still in the Campo Vaccino on the right hand , I came to the round Church of S. Cosmo and S. Damiano , anciently the Temple of Castor and Pollux : because the Romans haueing seen two men vpon sweating horses , that told them news of a battle wonn by their Consul , and so vanished , they imagined them to be Castor and Pollux , and thereupon decreed them this Temple . The Masaick work in the roof of the Tribune deserues your particular attention , for the Symbolical figures sake . Going on still , I came to the Church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda . It was once a Temple dedicated to Faustina the Emperesse by her husbād Antoninus Poore man ! he could not make an honest woman in her lifetime , and yet he would needs make her a Goddesse after her death . The Portch of this Church is stately still , by reason of its great marble pillars . A little further stands the Church of S. Adriano , anciently dedicated to Saturne who first taught the Italians to make Money , & therfore the Romans placed their Aerarium publicum , The Publick Treasory in this Temple , and had their Mint hard by it . S. Martinas Church followes the next ; and in a low Chappel , neatly adorned , I saw her Tombe ; Here stood anciently the Temple of Mars the Reuenger . Before this Church stands the Triumphal Arche of Septimius Seuerus rarely cut with figures in marble in mezzo rilieuo . Half of it is buryed vnder ground , the other half is sore battered with the ayre . Who would think the ayre and the Earth to be deuouring elements , as well as the fire and the water ? But why do I accuse the Ayre , when its onely Time ( which taketh a pride to triumph our Triumphs ) that hath bettered this Triumphal Arch , and moultered euen marble ? A little higher on the hill side stands the little Church of S. Joseph , where I saw in the low grotte vnderneth , the prison called anciently Tullianum , into which prison S. Peter and S. Paul where shut up . I descended into the low dungeon where S. Peter baptized Processus and Martinianus , his two keepers , with diuers others . The Fountaine of water that sprung vp miraculously for that holy function , is still seen there in the bottom of that dungeon . Many other braue buildings stood anciently in this Foro Romano , worth remembring , as the Comitium , or publick place of assembly ; so called a coeundo : it being the Great Hall of Iustice , in which was erected a large Tribunal , were the Praetor ( our Lord Chief Justice ) sat in an Iuory chaire , called Cella Curulis , and ministred iustice to the people . In this Comitium stood the Statue of Horatius Cocles ; and in the corners of it , those of Pithagoras and Alcibiades . In this Foro also , stood the Rostra ( a great Pulpit made of the Rostra or brasen snouts of the ships wonn from the Antiates ) where Orators vsed to plead , and were Tully thundered . Behinde the Rostra stood Romulus his Tombe , and before the Rostra , the Tombe of Faustulus the Foster Father of Romulus . Mounting vp from hence to the Capitol by the Coach way , I saw , vpon the side of the Hill , the pillars that belonged once to the Temple of Concorde , built by Camilus , and not farre from hence , three other pillars of neat Fabrick which belonged to the Temple of Iupiter Tonans , Thundering Iupiter , built there by Augustus Cesar , after he had escaped a thunderclap which killed his Litterman close by him . Arriuing at the Capitol , I was glad to see that place , so famous in the Roman story . It s name of Capitol came from the Head of a man ( caput in Latin ) found vnderground when they first layd the foundation here of the Temple of Iupiter Capitolinus . Iustus Lypsius , as if he had been the Godfather of that man whose head was found here , sayth , that his name was Tolus , and that from Caput Toli came Capitolium . This head found here portended , that Rome should one day be the head of the world . And this title is so vniuersally knowne to belong to Rome , that all authors affirme it , and euery petty artisan in Rome , will tell you so , though in false Latin , as one did me , when hearing me prayse Rome , and thinking that I did it not enough , cryed out to me , half in Italian , and half in Latin ; Caspitra , Signore , Roma est capus mundi ▪ which saying made me both smile , and say to my self , that such a Head as this fellows , found now vnder-ground , would portend the ruine of the Latin tongue . I went first to the highest part of that Hill , called anciently Rupes Tarpeia . It looks downe vpon the Theater of Marcellus ; and is nothing so high a hill as I conceiued when I first read Liuy . For I expected to haue found here a hill at least like that in India called Dorin , which Curtius describes , Munster paints out , and Hercules could not take ; but comeing to it , I found it to be a hill of that easy ascent , that I had ridden vp farre higher in Sauoy and Swisserland . 2. Then returning the same way again to the piazza of the Capitol , I saw there the famous Equestris Statua of Marcus Aurelius , once guilt ouer , but now appearing to be plain brasse . This is the noblest statue in the world ; and I was going to say , the noblest statue liuing ; for it seems almost to liue and breath by the workemans art : it is noble also because it represents a man so noble as Marcus Aurelius , who was a double Emperour , being both a great Emperour and a great Philosopher . Hard by this Equestris statue are seen two Colossean statues , powring out two riuers , the one representing Nilus , the other Tigris . Ouer them stands a statue of Rome something like Pallas , her face is of white marble , her garments of Porphiry . 3. I saw the Trophies of Marius cut anciently in stone in honour of that great General , who from a common soldier came by his warlike vertue , to be seauen times Consul . 4. I viewed the two great statues of Constantin the Great in white marble , with the Horses . 5. I saw the Milliarum , that is , a little pillar of stone with a great round brasen ball vpon it . This pillar stood anciently in the Fore Romano before S. Adrians Church and it was erected by Augustus Caesar . It was called Milliarium because from it the Romans counted the miles , that were from Rome to euery great City of Italy , or of the Empire , and the first mile distant from this pillar , was called primus ab Vrbe Lapis ; and so of the rest . 6. Then entring into the Conseruatorio , that is the pallace of the Conseruatori or Senators , I saw there the Statues of Iulius Caesar & Augustus Caesar . Then in the little court I saw marked vp vpon the out wall in a marble stone , the Roman measures , as their Canna , Palmo &c. ( as we haue all measured by the Elle , and yard . ) that all marchants may know where to finde whether his measures be lawfull and iust , or no. Then the foot , hand , thighs , and head , in marble scattered here and there in this court , yet all looking as if they had belongd to the great Colossus of Apollo , made by the command , of Lucullus . Then the rare statue of a Lyon tearing a horse . The Tombe of Mammea , and Alexander Seuerus her sonn , with the rape of the Sabines vpon it in a basso rilieuo . The little Egyptian Idol set high vp ouer this tombe . The head of the Emperor Commodus in brasse , with a hand of the same . 7. Hard by the stairfoot as you mount vp to the Chambers , stands the Colonna Rostrata , a marble pillar some twelue foot high , decked with stemms of ships cut in marble , and sticking out of the pillar , with an Inscription in the bassis below in scuruey old Latin. I found it spoke of a Sea Victory wonn ouer he Carthaginians , and of Duilius ; and I cared for no more , because Liuy , in better Latin , tells me the rest : to wit , that it was Dulius that of all the Romans got the first Naual Victory ; and then I easily concluded , that this pillar was erected to him for that seruice . It s almost as hard a thing to conster this old Latin , as to haue wonn that Victory ; and therefore I le leaue the words to Petrus Ciaconius a flegmatick spaniard , to comment vpon . Yet I learnt out of this left handed Latin , this obseruation , that the braue Romans of the highest times , cared more to do well , then to speak well ; and that the Roman commonwealth was turning towards her decline , when fine language was in vogue . 8. Hard by this pillar stand mounted two little quarter Cannons : a poore Arsenal for the Roman Senators now a dayes . 9. Then mounting vp some ten steps , I came into a little Court whose walls are all encrusted ouer with four excellent peeces of Marcus Aurelius his Triumph cut in marble . In one of them he triumpheth in his open chariot : in another he sacrificeth : in another he giueth largesses to the People . In the forth he receiueth the presents of the Romans . They are all so well cut that you doubt whether it be the Emperour , or the Sculptor that triumphs here . Indeed the Emperors Chariot hath got new wheels , of late , and his horses new shoos and feet , else all is old . 10. Then going vp the stairs higher , I saw an old plate of brasse , nayed vp , in which the Roman Laws of the ten tables , were written : good Lawes , but few . And I was glad to see them yet kept : if that bee to keep lawes , to keep them nayled fast to the Wall. 11. Then entring into the Chambers and great Hall , I saw the statues of Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma : of M. Antonius Colonna the Popes General in the battle of Lepanto : and of Don Iohn of Austria Generalissimo . I saw vpon the walls painted in fresco , the rapt of the Sabins , the duel of the tergimini Fratres , three brothers against three brothers , Horatii against Curiatii : Sceuola holding his hand ouer the burning coales : Cocles defending the bridge alone against an army of men : Scipio , and Hanibal with their seueral armyes , so rarely painted by Pietro Perugino that the Romans now are in loue with Hanibal . Then the picture of the first Consul Brutus commanding the death of his owne Son : that of the Tarquinii : that of the conquering of the Sabins &c. all peeces as bold as the very actions they represent . Here also in the other Chambers , I saw some fine statues , as that of Caius Marius ; that of Hercules in brasse being but yet a lad ; That of Iunius Brutus in brasse ; the heads in marble of Diogenes , Plato , Socrates : the Statues of Cicero , Virgil , and Plato ; the brasen statue of the Woolf that gaue suck to Romulus and Remus . But the best statue here , is that of the yong man picking a thorne out of his foot . It s onely of brasse , but worth its weight in gold . The story of it is this . A yong foot poste bringing letters of singular importance vnto the Senate , and pricking his foot as he ran , would not stay to pick out the thorne ; but hastening to Rome with all speed , deliuered his letters in full Senate prodigiously soone , as it appeared by their dates . But then claping himself downe vpon the ground before them all , he began to pick out the thorne , in the posture you see him here . The Senate seing the haste he had made , and the payne he had endured , decreed presently that his statue in that posture , should be erected in the Capitol . Thus the old Romans not hauing then recompences enough for well deseruing men , or else not willing to recompence them otherwise , persuaded men , that no recompence was like to that of a statue in the Capitol , or to walke vp and downe the streets with a crowne of Laurel , or Oake leaues vpon their heads . Poore fooles ! Was a crowne of leaues such an honour , when euen baudy houses and priuyes , Saith Tertullian , Were crowned too ? Or was it such a solid honour to haue a statue in the Capitol , when geese , and woolfes were honored so too ? But quod rarum , charum est . And as Alexander the Great hearing that the Corinthians would make him a Citizen of their towne , scorned it at first : but after he had been assured that they neuer offered that honour to any man but to Hercules and him , he was well pleased with that offer : so the rarity of hauing a statue in the Capitol being an honour granted to few , and those well deseruing men , made men think it the highest of recompences . Among those few , where Scipio , for hauing ouercomne Antiochus : Aemilius Lepidus for hauing , while he was but yet a boy , freed a Roman citizen in a battle : Metellus for sauing the Palladium out of the burning Temple of Vestae : Cornelia for hauing furnished corne to the people in a dearth , out of her owne moneys , and some few others . Hauing thus seen the Capitol , I went into the Noble Church of Ara Caeli which is joyning to the Capitol vpon the same hill , and built in the same place where anciently stood the Temple of Iupiter Capitolinus , or Jupiter Feretrius . Here it was the Sibylle shewed vnto Augustus Caesar , at the birth of our Sauiour , that a greater Lord then he was borne ; where vpon Augustus forbad , that any man should call him Lord from that time forward . In this Church is the Tombe of S. Helen Mother of Constantin the Great . Descending from hence by the marble staires , which are a hundred in all , and all so large , that twelue men in a breast may go vp at once , I came to the Jesuits Church and house called the Casa Professa . The Church is neate and capacious , the Chappels well painted , and the ornaments in the Vestery Very rich . Vnder the Altar where S. Ignatius his picture is , lyes the body of that Saint , Founder of the Order of the Iesuits . Neare the high Altar on the Gospel side is the Tombe of Cardinal Bellarmin . In the house of these Fathers I saw the Chamber of S. Ignatius , now turned into a Chappel : and a fair Library . Passing from hence , I stept into the Pallace of S. Mark , belonging to the state of Venice , and the lodgeing place alwayes of the Venetian Embassadors resideing in the Court of Rome . This pallace , as also that of the Cancellaria , and that of Farnese , are sayd to haue been built of the stones that were taken from the great Amphitheater ; and yet a great part of it remanes still ; and I I beleeue , as much as would make three more such pallaces . From S. Marks Pallace I went towards the Mount Quirinal now called Monte Cauallo , and as I went , passed through that part of the towne which anciently was called Forum Traiani , and there saw that which Traian himself neuer saw , to wit , the wonderfull pillar of white marble erected there to Traian , and therfore called Colonna Traiana , but neuer seen by him : for he dyed in forrain expeditions returning from Persia without euer seeing it . This pillar is made of four and twenty great stones of marble , in which are carued the exploits of Traian , especially in his warres against the Dacians . It s a hundred twenty eight foot high , without its basis which is twelue foot high . Within it there are a hundred fourscore and fiue stairs , which deliuer you vp to the top of it , and there are forty little windows which let in light enough for you to go vp . On the top of all this pillar where anciently buryed the ashes of Traian the Emperour : but Sixtus Quintus caused , in place of them , the statue in brasse guilt of S. Peter to be set vp here . Here to fore all the basis of it was buryed vnder ground in the ruines , but now they haue diggd about it and cleared it ; yet by this we may see how much the streets of Rome are higher then they were ; Rome now being built vpon the ruines of Rome . From hence going vp the hill I came to the Pallace and garden of Aldobrandini . The house is but little yet neatly furnished with statues and pictures . Some whereof are these : An old picture made in the time of the Pagans representing a mariage after the old Romans fashion . I take this to be the ancientest picture in Rome , and the r●rity of it is so great , that Caualier Pozzo ( a braue Gentleman and a great Virtuoso , ) got leaue to copie it out , and this copie is to be seen in the house of his brother , among other rare curiosityes , neare S. Andrea della Valle. Next after this , I was showne in the foresayd pallace , the true picture of Martin Luther : a rare S. Sebastian in the Chappel , of Raphaels hand : Vpon the stairs a statue of a man hanging by the hands , with great stones at his feet weighing him downe : a torment much vsed by the Heathens , and practised by them vpon Christians : with a world of other pictures and statues in the Chambers . From hence I went to Cardinal Mazzarinis Pallace ; and there saw in the garden , the famous picture of the Aurora made by Guido Rhent famous ouer all Rome . In the court of this Pallace I saw the best Rideing Masters of Rome teach yong Gentleman to ride the Great horse : but I found them here farre short of the masters in France , both for good horses , and good schollers , and gracefull rideing . In the same Court in the sommer euenings , they play at ballon , a manly exercice much vsed in Italy , and farre more gentile then our rude football sport . Neare to this pallace stand the Popes stables where I saw all the Genets that had been presented to the Pope , since his creation , by the king of Spaine for the kingdome of Naples ; euery yeare one , with a purse of gold . The other horses here were onely coach horses ; for when the Pope goes any whither abroad vpon publick ceremony , the Cardinals , and Prelats vpon Mules , and the noble men of Rome vpon their owne horses , wait vpon him : and when he goes out of towne his owne horse gards attend him . From hence I was presently in the piazza of Montecavallo , where I saw the two famous horses in marble , with each one a man holding him , they were sent to Nero for a present by Tiridates king of Armenia . In the Pedestal of the these statues are written , vnder The one of them Opus Phidiae : vnder the other , Opus Praxitelis . It s sayd that these two horses and men were made by these two ancient Sculptors of Greece to represent Bucephalus and Alexander the Great . Howeuer these horses giue name to this hill , and whereas it was formerly called Mons Quirinalis ; it s now called Montecauallo . Vpon this hill stood anciently the Thermae Constantinianae , or Bathes of Constantin the Great , of which there are seen some remnants in the Garden of Colonna which lyes behinde the wall of this piazza . Oueragainst the foresayd horses stands the Popes Pallace , where he ordinarily liues in Sommer . The house is of a noble structure , and the rooms stately : but I saw nothing rare in them but themselues . The Garden of this house is curious for fine walks , store of fountains , and the coole Grotta vnder great shady trees , where there are fine water-works , and an organ playing without any fingers to touch it . Ouer against the backdore of this garden stands the nouitiate of the Iesuits , with the ne a new Church , & fine gardens . Returning from hence , I stept into the Church of S. Syluester ouer against the Pallace of Mazzarini belonging to the Theatins ; and there saw the tombe of Cardinal Bentiuoglio the moderne Liuy of Italy . The garden here standing in a fair prospect , is very pleasant and delightsome . Descending from hence by a priuate street , I went to S. Agathas Church in the Saburra neare the foot of the Quirinal Hill. The body of S. Agatha lyes vnder the Altar . Before the dore of this Church , are some ancient s●atues of little boyes in the habit of the Praetexta , a habit belonging to noblemens children . From hence passing by the Church of Madonna del Monte ( a Church of great deuotion ) I went vp the Hill to S. Peters ad Vincola ; where I saw the famous statue of Moyses sitting . It s of white marble and adorning the Tombe of Iulius Secundus . It s enough to tell you , that it was made by Michael Angelo , and admired by all Sculptors . Here 's neare vnto the dore of the Church , an Altar with the statue of S. Sebastian , at the erecting of which , the plague ceased in Rome , sayth Baronius . In the Sacristy of this Church I saw the chaines in which S. Peter was fettered in prison ; and which make this Church be called S. Peter ad Vincula . S. Martino in Monte fellows the next , and is a neat Church now . In a caue below there were two Councils held by S. Syluester in the primitiue times of persecution , as the words vpon the wall , as you descend into the Caue , and Baronius , testify . It s sayd that in this place was exercised the first publick profession of Christian Religion . Then the Church of S. Praxedes , were I saw the pillar at which our Sauiour was whipped . It s a low round pillar of speckled marble . It stands within a little grate of iron . The old writeing ouer the dore of that Chappel tells you that it was brought to Rome from Hierusalem four hundred yeares ago by a Cardinal Colonna . In the mistd of the Church is a Well ( now couered ) where S. Praxedes hid the Relicks and bodyes of Martyrs . In an other Chappel I saw the Picture of the Descent of our Sauiour from the Crosse , made by Guido . In the Balcones aboue in the pillars , I saw , by special fauour , many curious Relicks . From hence I went to S. Mary Maiors Church , so called because it is the greatest of all the Churches of our Lady in Rome . It s built vpon the Monte Esquilino , and vpon the place which was couered miraculously with snow on the V of August . The history of it is knowne by the solemne Feast in the Kalender , called Sancta Maria ad Niues , and it is expressed in the old Mosaik pictures which are set here in the wall ouer the pillars that beare vp the roof . The most remarkable things I saw here , were these . 1. The Tombe of the founder of this Church , Patritius , whose body lies in a tombe of Porphyrie neare the great dore . 2. The noble guilt roof , or soffita , which was guilt with the first gold that came out of the Indies in Alexander the VI time , whose armes are set vp in this roofe . 3. The Mosaick pictures which runn along this Church containing the history of the old and new Testament , and the history of the building of this Church . 4. The High Altar vnder which reposeth the body of S. Mathias the Apostle , whose head is exposed vpon the Altar in a crystal vpon his day . 5. The Tombe of an Embassador of Congo to Paulus V. Its ouer against the statue in brasse of Paulus V. neare the Sacristy . 6. The little back Court there with the Eccho in the well , which answers you indeed , but like a sharp scold , too quick , and short . 7. The Rare Chappel of Sixtus V. made by Domenico Fontana , which cost seaven hundred thousand crownes . The most famous actions of Sixtus Quintus , and of Pius Quintus , who made Sixtus Cardinal , are carued in white marble round about the Chappel . S. Hieromes ashes are buryed here in a side Altar on the left hand : and where should we looke for S. Hierome , but neare our Sauiours Crib ? which is here enchased in crystal in a low Chappel vnder the high Altar of this Chappel . It s showne publickly vpon Christmasse day . The Tabernacle of brasse borne vp by four Angels of brasse with one hand , and holding each one a torch in the other hand , is most stately . 8. Oueragainst this Chappel , stands the Chappel of Paulus V. much like the other in all things , except that the chief Altar stands not in the middle , but at the end of it . This Altar is of a Very neat contriuance , and of as rich materials . Four great Pillars of Iasper polished , adorned with Capitels and bases of brasse guilt , hold vp the back of this Altar which is all of Lapis Luzuli , or Oriental blew azule stone ; in the midst of which is a little Nichio in the Wall , where the picture of our Blessed Lady with our Sauiour in her armes , made by S. Luke , is conserued and seen . This Nichio is surrounded with a row of rich pretious stones of great value set thick about it ; and shut vp with two little half dores , of two whole Agates , each of them two foot long , and a foot large . Theodorus Lector an ancient Author , makes mention of this picture , and sayth , Pulcherioe , Eudocia Imaginem Matris Christi , quam Lucas Apostolus Pinxerat , Hierosolymis misit : That is : Eudocia sent vnto Pulcheria from Hierusalem the picture of the mother of Christ which Luke the Apostle had painted . The picture it self is so old , and placed so high , that its hard to perceiue the lineaments of the faces , vnlesse you see it with a waxe taper at the end of a long pole , as I did . In fine , this was the picture which S. Gregory the Great a thousand yeares agoe , carryed in procession vpon Easier day , when he saw ouer the Moles Adriani , an Angel sheathing his sword in signe of the ceasing of the plague . The roof or little cupola of this Chappel is painted by the hand of Guido Rheni of Bologna . The side walls of this Chappel are of white marble cut in mezzo relieuo , and containing the chief actions of Clement the VIII , and Paulus V , whose statues are also here in white marble . 9. Without the Church stand two great pillars at each end of it : the one an Egyptian Guglia cut with Hieroglyphs ; the other a Roman Pillar taken out of the ruines of the Temple of Peace ; which is of a prodigious height , with the statue of our Sauiour & our Lady vpon it in brasse guilt . From S. Marie Maiors I went to the Church of S. Vito and Modesto . It s built neare the ruines of the Triumphal Arch of Galienus the Emperor . The great Keys that are nailed to the top of that foresayd Arch , were the Keys of the Citie Tusculum ( now called Frescate ) and hung vp here in memory of a Victory wonn ouer that towne , vnder Honorius the V. almost fiue hundred yeares ago . From hence I went to the Church of S. Eusebio built vpon the ruines of the Termae of the Emperor Gordiano , and his Pallace , whose court had fifty pillars on euery side . Neare vnto this Church were found the Trophies of Marius , which J spoke of aboue in the Capitol . Continuing on my way , I came at last to Santa Croce in Jerusalem . It s one of the seauen Churches of Rome , and built by the Emperor Constantin the Great . It stands neare the walls of the towne in the end of the Mount Caelius . Hard by it appeare some prints of the Temple of Venus and Cupid , which the sayd Emperor ruined , to build a Church in the place of them , in honor of the holy Crosse , and so repair the injury which the Jnfidels had done to the Holy Crosse in Hierusalem , by placeing the Statue of Venus vpon Mount Caluary , and striuing to blot out the name of Mont Caluarie , and bring in that of Mont Venerie . This Church is called Santa Croce in Hierusalem , because of the earth of Mount Caluarie , which was brought from Hierusalem and layd here . The things I obserued here , were these . 1. The painting in the Tribune or roof of the quire , containing the history of the Exaltation of the Holy Crosse . It looks like the painting of Pietro Perugino , or some of his schollers ; and it was thought fine worke before Raphael raysed painting to a greater height . 2. The Chappel below where the Holy Earth sent by S. Helen from Hierusalem , to her sonn Constantin the Emperor , was put . 3. The Relicks in the Sacristy aboue , to wit , three peeces of the Holy Crosse ; one of the nayles of the Crosse of our Sauiour ; two thornes of the holy Crowne of thornes ; a great peece of the title of the Holy Crosse , a finger of S. Thomas the Apostle ; and one of the thirty peeces of money for which our Sauiour was sold . Not farre from hence stands the Church of Santa Bibiana . This Church stands in the place called anciently Vrsa Pileata , because of the statue of a Beare with a hat on , which stood there . This place is also famous for the Church yards sake , or Caemeterium , called , inter duas lauros . Here is some good painting in this Church , of Campelli , and Pietro Cortonese . The statue of the Saint is of Berninis hand . From hence I found away that led me to the Gate of S. Laurence , through which , I went to the Church of that Saint called San Lorenzo fuori delle mura by reason of diuers others built in honour of that Saint within the Walls . This Church was built by Constantin too , and enriched by him with many presents and ornaments . It was built vpon the Caemeterium Sanctae Ciriacae , where that holy woman vsed to bury the bodyes of the holy Martyrs . It stands in the Via Tiburtina , and is one of the seauen Churches of Rome ; and one of the fiue Patriarchal Churches , and therfore is not titular of any Cardinal . The things that I saw here , were these . 1. The Tombe of S. Laurence , vnder the High Altar . 2. Behinde the high Altar the stone vpon which the gridiron stood vpon which S. Laurence was broiled . It s couered with a great glasse through which you see it . 3. In the roof of this Church I found these words cut in great Letters of wood ; Quam clarificata est Hierosolyma Stephano , tam illustris facta est Roma Laurentio , taken out of S. Leo in his sermon vpon the feast of S. Laurence . 4. The Catacombes vnder this Church , where many Saints bodyes were buryed anciently . Returning againe into the towne I stept into S. Antonyes Church and Hospital , neere to S. Mary Maiors ; before which Church stands a Pillar with a Crosse vpon it , erected here vpon the conuersion of Henry the IV of France . Passing behinde S. Mary Maiors , I went to Santa Pudentianas Church standing in the ancient street called Vicus Patritius . This Church was built vpon the place where the house of Pudens a Senator and Father of S. Pudentiana , liued . And here it was , that S. Peter at his first comeing to Rome lodged , hauing conuerted this Pudens and his two daughters Pudentiana and Praxedes . Here I saw these things . 1. The dry Well into which S. Pudentiana put many Relicks of Martyrs , to conserue them . I looked into it with a lighted taper let downe in a string , and saw many curious relicks desked vp in the side of the wall . 2. The woodden Altar vpon which S. Peter sayd Masse at his being here . 3. The two marble statues of our Sauiour and S. Peter . They are both excellently well cut , and perchance by rare Oliuieri . 4. The neat Chappel of the Caetani , with the back of the Altar in white marble curiously cut by Oliuieri in a bass● rilieuo , representing the adoration of the Magi. Neare the high Altar , is the picture of the forementioned Senator Pudens , in his Senators robes . From hence I went to S. Lorenzo in Panisperna . Here it was that S. Laurence was broyled vpon the gridiron by the command of the Emperor Decius whose pallace stood where this Church now stands . Vpon the wall of this Church is painted the martyrdome of S. Laurence in Fresco . Here lye buryed the bodyes of S. Bridgit a Holy Virgin of Scotland ; and of Cardinal Sirletus . Going from hence by a little vnfrequented street running vnder the foot of Mo●tecauallo , I came to the Church of S. Vitalis which stands ioyned to the garden of the Iesuits Nouitiat . It s sayd that the Temple of Quirinus , or Romulus stood here ; and that it was here that Proculus swore he saw Romulus after his death , who bid him go tell the Romans , that he would be adored by them vnder the name of Quirinus : when indeed it was thought , that the Senators had torne him in peeces in the Senate house , and carryed away vnder their gownes euery one a peece of him ; and findeing the people to mutter much at his not appearing ; had got this Proculus to depose as aboue ; and so quieted the people , who are as easily pacifyed againe with a vain tale , as stired vp with a found rumour . From hence I went to the Quatro Fontane , which stand at the head of four streets which meet here . These fountains yssue out from four statues which lye here in cumbent postures ; and they were made here by Lepidus . Then following that fair street , I went to Sancta Maria della Vittoria so called from the victory wonn in the battle of Prague . The flags and cornets taken in this battle are set round about the Church ▪ in one of the flags , ouer the dore , I found Crosse Keys , Cardinals Caps , Miters and Priests corned caps all turned topsy turuy , with this single motto , Extirpentor . Here are very neat Chappels especially that on the left hand , where is seen the representation of S. Teresa wounded by a Seraphin . It s an admiraole peece of Beruini . In the Conuent you see painted in a Sala , the battle of Prague , and in the Sacristy a sepulcher of our Sauiour all of Iuory extraordinarily well wrought . Before the dore of the forsayd Church , stands the great Fountaine , called Fontana Felice , where the Aqueduct of Sixtus Quintus ( who before his assumption to Ecclesiastical dignities , was called in his Monastery ●ra Felice ) disburdeneth it self into a great stone basin , and from thene is carryed into diuers parts of the towne . From hence I went to the garden of Montalto , which is hard by . This is one of the best gardens in Rome , and therefore deserues well to be seen . At your entrance into it , you see a round table of a blewish stone , vpon which the armes of the house of Montalto are engrauen ; at which while you gaze curiously and neare at hand , the gardiner , by pressing his foot vpon a low iron pump vnder the table , presseth out water on all sides of that round table , and well-cometh the strangers that come to see his garden . Then mounting into the little Pallace neare that dore , I saw diuers good pictures and statues , of the house of Montalto , and others . There also I saw a wooden organ , pipes and all , and yet of no vngreatfull sound . There also I saw the picture of Dauid killing Goliath : It turnes vpon a frame , and shews you both the foreside of those combatans , and their backsides two , which other pictures do not . Here are curious Vrnes ; the true busto of sixtus V. a tabernacle of richstones . There is a pictures in stones of seueral colours , which held one way , represents nothing but a bunch of hearbs ; but held vp an other way , it represents a mans head and face . in fine here is in this little pallace , a neat Library in a coole roome , ouer the dore of which , on the in side , are written these words : Medicina animi ; as if Libraries were nothing but phisick gardens for the minde . Descending againe into the garden I saw store of wetting sports , and water workes , most curiously cōtriueed : & most stately walkes . From hence we went to the Carthusians Church which is hard by . This Church and Monastery are built vpon the ruines of the Bathes of Diocletian . For this cruel Emperor with his associat Maximian , condemned forty thousand Christians to worke in this building for the space of fifteen yeares together , and afterwards condemned many thousands of them to death for their religion . Thus men work for Tyrants . But such is the wonderfull prouidence of God : Churches of Christians now stand where Christians were condemned to death and torments . The blood of these martyrs was but the seed of Christians ; and when Diocletian condemned Christians to worke here , me thinks he did but bid them go lay the foundation of a Monastery for Carthusians , and of a Church for the worship of that God he so much persecuted . Hauing seen this Church and Monastery , I went to see the Popes Graneries , vast buildings two stories high , and alwayes full of wheat for the present vse of the whole city . A world of officers and ouerseers belong to these Graneries , and are alwayes turning ouer , and keeping the vast heapes of wheat from spoyling and corrupting . By sticking vp canes in the heapes of wheat , they can tell , smelling at the ends of these canes , whether the wheat begin to moisten and corrupt , or no , and accordingly giue order either to turne it , and ayre it , or presently to giue it out to the bakers . These Graneries were also built vpon the ruines of Diocletians Baths . From these Graneries I went to the towne Gate , not farre off , called Porta Pia , and from thence streight along for a good mile , to S. Agneses Church . Vnder the high Altar reposeth the body of that tender Virgin , who being as innocent as her name , suffered martyrdome at thirteen , and triumphed ouer the world before she could know it . Close by stands the Church of S. Constantia an other holy primitiue Virgin. Here I saw the famous Tombe , commonly called Bacchus his Tombe , but falsely , seing it was the Tombe of S. Constantia . It s a vast arca , or Chest of one Porphyrie stone , aboue half a foote thick , and six foot long . It s all cut on the outside with a basso rilieuo in a most admirable manner . From hence crossing ouer the fields , I went to Borghesis Villa and garden , which are a little half mile from the towne . This is the greatest Villa that 's about Rome . For here you haue store of walkes , both open and close , fish ponds , vast cages for birds , thickets of trees , store of fontaines , a park of deere ; a world of fruit trees . statues of all sizes , banqueting places Grottas , wetting sports , and a stately pallace adorned with so many rare statues and pictures , that their names make a booke in octauo , which I referre you to . As for the pallace it selfe its compassed on both sides by a fair demicircle of statues , which stand before the two dores , like old Penates and Lares . The wall of the house is ouercrusted with a world of Anticallie , or old marble peeces of antiquity : as that of Curtius spurring into the Vorago : that of Europa hurryed away by Iupiter becomne a Bull , with a world of such like fables . Entring into the house I saw diuers roomes full of curiosityes . In the great hall stands the statue of Diana in Oriental Alabaster , which was once à Deity adored by Augustus Caesar . Here also hang two great pictures , the one representing a Caualcata when the Pope goeth abroad in ceremony ; the other a Caualcata when the Great Turke goeth abroad in pompe . 2. In an other roome stands the statue of one of the famous gladiators anciently , who fought alone against twenty others , and being wounded to death seems to threaten with his lookes all his beholders . It s terribly well made . 3. In one of the chambers aboue , is the head in profile of Alexander the Great cut in marble . 4. In an other roome below I saw the Statue of Seneca bleeding to death . It s of a black stone like Ieat , then which nothing can be blacker but the crimes of Nero the Magistricide , who put this rare man his master to death . 5. The statue also of Daphne and Apollo in alabaster ; Apollo running after Daphne , and she stiffening into a tree being ouer taken : her fingers shooting into branches , and her toes into rootes , are admirably well done . It must be Berninis worke . 6. The statue also of Aeneas carryeing his old Father Anchises vpon his back out of burning Troye . The yong man is brawny and strong ; the old man is made leane and weake : as also the yong man shews a great deale of tender affection towards his Father ; and the Father as much feare in his lookes . 7. The Statue also of Dauid slinging at Goliath . He frownes so terribly as he slings , that you would sweare he intends to fright him with his lookes , and then kill him with his sling . These two last statues are also of the hand of Caualier Bernini . 8. In an other chamber aboue I saw the Great Chair which locketh fast any man that sitteth downe in it . It s sayd to be a chair of reuenge , or a trap-chaire for an enemy : but me thinks it would be a fine chaire for a restlesse student , or a gossiping wife . I saw here also Some toyes for yong men ; as the clock which being wound vp playeth a tuneable dance , and little men and women of iron painted hansomely , dance in a ring to that tune by vertue of the wheeles . The fooles paradise , representing first a fine green garden of flowers , then a pallace , and lastly a neat Library , is made also to recreate children . Returning from this villa by the back dore which leadeth to the Porta del Populo , I stept into the Church of Madonna del Populo . This Church hath been much beautifyed of late by Pope Alexander the VII , because of some of his ancestors buryed here . Here I saw the famous statue of Ionas made by the command of Raphael Vrbin , who shewd the Sculptors of his time how perfectly he possessed the theory of Sculpture , if he would but haue durtyed his fingers with that durty art . In a chappel neare the Ghospelside of the High Altar I saw a good picture of the hand of Guido Rheui . Where now the High Altar stands , stood anciently the Tombe of Nero. Going on from hence on the left hand , towards the Piazza di Spagna , I first passed by the great Guglia , or Egyptian pyramid carued all ouer with Hieroglyphs . It s looked vpon by three streets , and seene a farre off . Then passing a little further , I came to the Greek Church and Colledge , where vpon certain dayes , I saw their Ceremonies , and heard the Masse sung in Greek after the Greek Manner . These Grecians are in vnion with the Roman Church , and haue a Seminary of yong students of their country maintained by the Pope to reurne to their country in Mission . Mounting from hence on the left hand , to the top of the hill by the coach way , I went into the Villa of the Great Duke , where I saw the neat garden , with fountains , two or three huge vessels of marble , and store of statues both in the pallace , and in the long gallery . That of the two gladiators wrastling ; that of the clowne , whetting his sythe and hearing the conspirators of Cataline speaking of their conspiracy , which he discouered , is one of the best peeces of sculpture in Rome . That of Cupid and Venus are admirable . From the chamber window of this pallace you haue a perfect sight of Rome vnder you . In the garden there is a little Guglia , with many other curiosities . Going out from this garden by the back dore , I crossed ouer the street , and was presently at the backdore also of the Villa Ludouisia , belonging to the Prince Ludouisio . This Villa stands in excellent ayre beeing seated high . There are two houses in this garden , and both furnished with exquisit rarityes . That which stands neere this backdore afforded me these curiosityes . A rare picture of the B. Vjrgin Mary made by Guido Rheni . It s the best picture of her that euer I saw . A rich cabinet with the picture of Pope Gregory the XV. in a Cameo , and other rich stones adorneing it . A neat little closet full of diuers rarityes ; as a true hydras skinn with seauen necks : a petrifyed fungus : the true picture of Francis the First of France with that also of his Physitian , both made by Laurenzo Vinci , and esteemed rare peeces ; with many other little curiosityes . In an other roome , the heads in white marble , of Gregory the XV , and his nephew Cardinal Ludouisio . A chamber full of curious glasses . Vpon the stairs a little Cupid so loaden with a quiuer of arrowes , that an other little Cupid is forced to hold them vp behind him . But that which is the most rare thing in this Villa , or perchance in any in Rome , is the incomparable Bedstead which is seen in one of the Chambers of this pallace . It s all of pretious stones , and valued at a hundred thousand crownes . The four bedposts are all of Oriental polished Iasper . The rest of it is of other rich stones : but the head of it exceeds farre the rest for riches and art , especially the midst of it , where the armes of the family of Ludouisio are curiously set in rich stones of seueral colours according to the colours of the coat of armes . Here you haue bunches of grapes , some red , some white , but all of rich stones . Here vast Amithysts , one square , an other round in pyramidal forme . Here Phaëton in his Chariot in a Cameo , with the wheels of his Chariot of pretious stones ; and a world of such rich worke , which makes this Bedstead the non plus of art and magnificence , I do not know for all that , why beds should be made of stones though pretious ones . If it be for the Princesse of this house to be brought to bed in , it po●tends vnto her a hard labour : if to lodge in it the euerlasting Fame of the greatness of this Family , it s a vaine labour ; seing pretious stones will moulter ●way in time , as other stones doe ●mnia mortalia mortalitati damnata . for my part , the best vse I know for it , is , to lay the petrifyed man in , whom we shall finde presently in the other pallace of this Villa : beds of stone are fittest for men of stone . Hard by this house stand the fountains and Waterworks , which with their shady trees , correct the hotest beames of the Italian Sun , and afford vnto the owner of this Villa , raine and clowds of his owne at will , euen in June and Iuly . From hence crossing through the garden , I went to the other house that stands in it , where I was showne in the seueral chambers many curious things : as , two braue old gladiators in stone sitting downe : four rare peeces of Guido Rhem , to wit a S. Francis , a Lucretia , a Iudith , and a Conuersion of S. Paul : Diuers curious pictures of the hand of Titian , Raphael , Michel Angelo , Carraccio and others : a rare head in marble of Scipio Affricanus : the head of Seneca in busto of great value . Ciceros head also in busto : some rich tables of inlayd stones : the little boyes in Iuory greater then I thought it possible for Iuory to haue furnished : two rare Apollos in white marble : the oracle of Porphyrie which spoake once : the statue of an old gladiator dyeing of his wounds in a great squar boxe lined with veluet , I saw the body of a petrifyed man , that is , a man turned into stone . One peece of the leg ( broken to assure an embassador doubting of the verity of the thing ) shewed me plainly both the bone and the stone crusted ouer it . The head and the other parts lye iumbled vp together in the boxe . If you aske me , why they do not put this body into some tombe , to bury it , I answer you , that it needs no other Tombe then this crust of stone . Indeed I neuer saw a body so neatly entombed as this : you would sweare that this Tombe is a pure Iustaucorps rather then a Tombe : it sitts as close as if a Tayler had made it . And that you may not think it an impossible thing . that men should be thus petrifyed , I must minde you what Ortelius sayth , that vpon the mountaines situated in the Werstern parts of Tartary are seen figures of men , cammels , sheep and other beasts , which by an admirable metamorphosis , were changed into stones about three hundred yeares ago . And Aristotle himself speaks of men petrifyed in the hollow caue of a mountain neare Pergamus . In an other chamber stands a great clock of brasse guilt , as tall as a man ; and it stands indeed ; for I think it hath not gone since it went out of Germany to Rome . They tell vs pretty things that this clock did , when it was yong : but now it cannot so much as stirre its hand : thus Time cashers at last , it s owne Heralds ; and breaketh the cloks by which we know her . In an other chamber of this house I saw a new statue in pure white marble , of the rapt of Proserpina : it s of the hand of Berninj . In an other roome I saw the rare statue of Cestius Marius killing himself with his dagger , vpon sight of his dead daughter who had killed her self for feare of falling into the hands of a lustfull Emperour . Descending from hence into a long low Gallery of statues I found here some very good ones , as that of Iunius Brutus , of Nero , of Domitian &c. But the best thing I saw there was the head of Olympias , ( mother of Alexander the Great ) in a basso rilieuo , and in a frame . Going out of this Villa by the great dore behind the Capucins , I stept into the Church of the sayd Capucins , and saw there in the second Chappel on the left hand , the Tombe of Santo Felice , a Lay brother of this Order , famous all Rome ouer for his knowne sanctity . Here lyes also buryed Cardinal Antonio Barberino brother to Pope Vrban the VIII , otherwise called Cardinal Sant ' Onofrio , who hauing been long a Capucin , was made Cardinal by his brothers expresse command ; and being Cardinal liued still a Capucin in the esteem of all that knew him . His humility would not so much as let his name be set vpon his tombe-stone ; but insteed of it , and his other titles , I found onely these words , hic iacet vmbra , cinis , nihil . This Cardinal , and Cardinal Mazat made by Clement the VIII , are all the Cardinals that the Capucins Order hath had . Ouer against the Capucins stands the Pallace of the family of Barberini possessed now by the Prince of Palestrina of that family . This is one of the noblest Pallaces in Rome , for its stately situation vpon a hills side ; for the two neat staircases ; the noble painting in the roof of the great hall by Pietro di Cartona ; the world of statues and pictures in the Gallery ; the rare sequens of chambers one going into an other ; the double appartimenti , each Capable to lodge any king in , and each rarely furnished ; in fine , for the rare Library of Cardinal Francesco Barberino . Descending from hence towards the Minims of Trinità di Monte , I stept into à little Church of Spanish Augustins called santo Ildefonso , which I cannot passe by without taking notice of ; because I think no body els doth , it is so little : yet haueing described the greatest Church of Rome ( S. Peters ) so exactly ; I cannot but say something of the least Church in Rome : dwarfs are men as well as Gyants ; and though this Church may seem rather to be a map , or model of a Church , then a true Church , yet seeng it hath not onely all the lineaments , features , and meen of a Church , but also all the noble parts of a Church , as High Altar , side Chappels , Cupola , Quire &c. I feare not to call it a Church , though for bigness , it would not make the little finger of S. Peters . From hence I went streight on to the Minims of Trinità di Monte belonging to France and S. Francis of Paula● Order . This Conuent is the best seated of any in Rome , and one of the noblest , being founded by king Lewis the XI . of France , ouerlooking all Rome , and looked vpon reciprocally by the best places in Rome . In the Church I saw diuers good peeces : as the Assumption of our Lady by Zuccarj : the picture of the takeing downe of our Sauiour from the Crosse , by Raphael : the picture of our Sauiours appearing to S. Mary Magdalen , by Julio Romano Raphaels Scholer , and imitating very much in this picture , Raphaels colours . See in the dormitory of this Conuent the curious perspectiue of S. Francis of Paula , and a rare sunn dyal ingeniously contriued . Descending from hence into the Piazza di Spagna , I saw the fountain of the ship , which in sommer nights they let ouer flow , to coole the Piazza and the neighboring streets . In this Piazza stands the Pallace of the Spanish Embassador , belonging alwayes to him who is Embassador here . In the end of the Piazza stands the Colledge de Propaganda Fede , of propagating the Faith , founded by Vrban the VIII to maintain diuers studens of the Easterne contryes , and euen of India and Ethiopia too , who hauing finished their studies in this Colledge , are sent back againe to their seueral countryes with great profit and aduantage to those poore Infidels who would sit still in the darkness of infidelity , were it not for the Popes care and Charity . From hence I steered to the Piazza of the Fontana de Treui , and in my way , saw diuers stately pallaces inhabited by Cardinals , because they stand neere the Foot of Montecauallo where the Pope resides . This Fontain of Treui is not yet finished as to the structure that was intended ; but onely the water is brought hither , and in that quantity , that it seemes to make three little riuers , at the three mouths out of which it gusheth . From hence I went nearer vnto the foot of the hill of Montecauallo , and stept into the Colledge of the Maronites , in whose Church , I heard them singing Masse in their owne language , and after their owne rites , as the Christians of Mount Libanus haue immemorably vsed to do . Their language is Arabick , and they haue alwayes kept themselues free from heresies ; and in Vnion with the Roman Church these 500 yeares . From hence I went to the Church of the SS . Apostoli built in honour of the twelue Apostles by Constantin the Great , who in honour of those holy Apostles , carryed out of the foundation twelue baskets of earth vpon his owne shoulders . In this Church lye buryed S. Philip and Iacob two Apostles . In the Piazza before this Church , stand four fine pallaces ; that of the Prince Colonna , that of Cardinal Ghisi , that of Cardinal Sforza , and that of the Signori Muti. Crossing from hence into the Corso I tooke an exact obseruation of this street , which is the fairest in Rome . It s called the Corso , because here it is that they make horses run against horses , Iews against Iews , boyes against boyes , and the like , in Carneual time . Here also it is , that the Mascarades march in Carneual time , and make themselues and others merry : and and all this is allowed the Italians that they may giue a little vent to their spirits which haue been stifled in for a whole yeare , and are ready els to choke with grauity and melancholy ; most men here liuing alone in their houses and chambers . If our Statesmen in England had gone on in the course their wise ancestours had shewed , and had suffered , as they did , some honest recreations to the people , as bowling , shooting , raceing &c , to giue vent to their actiue spirits , we had all been happyer : but while both the Tribunals , and the Pulpits thundered out against moderate recreations and assemblyes , out of feare and faction , they made the humour of the Englishmen grow so sowre and bitter , that nothing would please them , but flat rebellion , and fanatick heresies . Now here in Rome , once a yeare , In Carneual time euery one vents his humour according to his fancy , and ( as it seems ) according to his need . One playes the Doctor of the Law , and goes vp and downe the streets with his booke in his hand disputeing with euery man he meets and vttering pure raillerie : and if by chance two such Doctors meet , they make sport enough for half an houre by their abuseing one another . Four of these pretended Doctors , with their gownes and caps on , and their bookes of the Codex before them , got an Asse into their coach who had also an open booke before him ; and thus they went along the streets studyeing , and turning ouer their bookes . Another takes himself to be a Grand Cyrus , and goes a horseback with a rich Persian habit and Plumes highly mounted . One went a foot grauely with a cloake on , & cryed a secret against mice , and opening his cloake , shewd a cat that he had vnder his arme ? Another went vp and downe the street combeing his haire like a spaniard saluting the Ladyes and twirling vp his mustaches with a stayed grauity . Some go in coaches and there play on instruments : others go on great carts , with little stages of bordes throwne vpon them , and there act little playes as they go along , and abuse tradsmen . One rides like a physitian vpon a mule with a world of vrinals hung round about him . Others ride grauely through the streets with great clackbags behinde them as if they came from Polonia . Some Princes here make glorious Carro's , with four horses on a breast drawing them , and with rare pageants vpon them , and a great traine of horsemen and trumpeters , clad exotically , accompanying the Carro in a most glorious manner . Some noblemen of highest quality , as Dukes , and Princes , I haue seen going a foot pelting with sugar plums those that were in coaches and windowes ; and angering them with their sugar affronts . But neuer did any Mascarade please like that speculatiue Italian who mocked both the French and the Spaniards at once , by walking vp and downe the street clad half like a Don , and half like a Monsieur . Oneside of his haire hung downe in a long curled lock powdered white : the other side was black and sweaty Half of his beard was turned downewards : the other half was turned vp with yrons and twirled in like the hilt of an old dragger . One eye was bare : and the other had a glasse , or half spectacle before it held on by a small wyar from vnder his hat . Half his hat was a narrow three-fingered-brimd hat , with a little half feather vpon the brim : the other half of it was a broad brim with out so much as a hat band . One half of his band about his neck was of a broad bonlace startched white : the other half was made of course lawne startched blew and standing out vpon a picky illy of wyar . Half of his face looked white with meale and pouder : the other half looked black and tawny . Half of his doublet was white satin with an open sleeue and a world of shirt huffing about his wrist and half of his waste : the other half was of black freeze with a black taffetty sleeue close and strait to the arme , and a hanging sleeue of freeze . One half of his breeches was of scarlat and vastly wide at the knee , with a confusio of rubans of six colours : the other half was of black taffety close at th● knee . Vpon one leg he had a linenen stocking with a great laced canon turned downe to his half leg : on the other he had a black silk stocking drawne vp close . In fine , on one foote he had a white spanish-leather shoo , with a stiff knot of six coloured ruband a quarter of an ele long : on the other a little black flat soled shoo tyed with a short narrow ruband . Thus this moral Hermaphrodite and walking Emblem of peace betwen the two nations , walked vp and downe the Corso grauely ; yet laughing within himself , to see how he carryed about him two such antipathetical nations in one sute of clothes . By this you may gesse at their other fooleries in Carneual time , and see how innocently they diuert themselues : for you must know , that none are suffered to carry swords or armes while they go masked thus ; nor to enter into any house ; nor to be abroad masked after it grows darke ; nor to do , or speake any thing scandalously that may shok ciuility or publick view : for which reason here are alwayes gards set , and sargeants rideing vp and downe the street of the Corso , to keep all in order , and to make euen mirth obserue decency . In this street also of the Corso it is that noblemen and Ladyes take the ayre euery fair euening in their coaches . For this reason there are many fine pallaces built in this street ; as the Pallace of Signor Vitelleschi , where I saw tenn chambers on a floore , and all of them filled with a rare collection of pictures and statues . Among the statues I was pleased exceedingly with that of Cincinnatus , and with that of Brutus defaced by the command of the Senate , where the very markes of the punches of the Halbards wherwith they defaced it , are yet seen . Not farre from it stands the pallace of Prencipe Pamfilio , in which I saw more riches and rare furniture then in any house in Rome or almost in Italy . For here they shewed me excellent plate of gold and syluer : an Agate Crosse fixed vpon a foote of the roote of Saphir-stone , and vnder it a basis beset round with Cameos cut into pictures : a great syluer Crucifix vpon an ebeny frame , the whole worth 12000 crownes : a rare cabinet with the picture of our blessed Lady in it , the whole valued at 6000 crownes : a sword whose hilt is of three great Turky stones of great Value : a basin of gold set thick with Turky stones : three or four great Besoars stones as big as pearmanes , which had been presented to Clement the VIII from all parts because he stood in need of them : a rich miter set with pretious stones of great Value : a world of curious originals of the best painters hands : curious saddles , harnesse , liueryes of show embrodered with gold and syluer , with many other rich curiosities . The other pallaces in the Corso are these ; that of Prencipe Carboniano ; that of Cardinal Franciotti ; that of Don Augustino Chisi , that of Prencipe L●douisio , that of the Duke Caetano . There are also in this street some Churches worth takeing notice of ; as that of S. Maria in Via Lata . which stands neere the Pallace of the Prince Pamfilio . It s an ancient Church , and a Cardinals title . Baronius sayth , that it s built there where S. Paul lodged at his first comeing to Rome . It s sayd also that in the Oratory here S. Luke wrote the Acts of the Apostles . There is also in the Corso the Church of S. Marcello , a title of a Cardinal . It was built in the place where anciently stood the Temple of the infamous Egyptian Godesse Isis , which Tiberius himself caused to be pulled downe , the Idol throwne into Tyber , and all the Priests of it to be crucifyed , for hauing fauoured a great crime comitted by a Roman Lady . Behinde this Church stands the Oratory of S. Marcello , called the Oratory of the holy Crucifix , where there is a famous Confraternity in which many noble men of Rome are enrolled . Euery friday in Lent there is excellent musick , and one of the best preachers in Rome . From hence also in the Holy yeare I saw march a procession of 15000 men , all in black buckram coats to the heeles , with a white torch in their hands ; and they went from hence on the night of Manday Thursday vnto S. Peters Church . Then the Church of S. Carlo in Corso , where J saw the heart of S. Charles Borromeo in a Cristal case . This Church belongs to the Milanesi . Then the Church of S. Iacomo de gl'Incurabili , a neat round Church belonging to the Hospital here where they that are afflicted with incurable diseases , are entertained and well tended . Lastly the Church of the penitent whores with their Conuent ; where all those poore souls that repent themselues of their bad life , are receiued , and kept all their life time , at the cost of this Conuent . And here I found a great difference between this Conuent , and the house in Amsterdam , where whores are clapt vp . For here these poore souls are locked vp with their owne consent and desire : there they are lockt vp by force and violence . Here the poore women do great acts of austerityes and penance , as the bloody walls of their Celles layd open by a conflagration shewed vnto all the Citie : there the yong women laugh , and are merry . Here no man is permitted to speak alone with them , except their Confessor , & physitian : there many men go to prattle and passe their time with those wanton girles , at a separation of rayles . Here a Vayle hides these poore womens faces : there I saw diuers with black patches on their faces . Here all signes of true repentance are seen : there none . Here the loue of vertue and penāce locks vp these : there the Vice of Loue locks in those , and not true repentance . For really all the repentance I saw there : was , that it repented me , that I had suffered mine hoste ( who would needs shew me all the rarityes of Amsterdam ) to lead me thither . O but , sayd a Holander to me , the Pope allowes whores in Rome . To whom I answered : no more Sr , then your states do drunkenness , which is a greater sinn of the two , because it rides double , and carryeth luxury behinde it . Do not drink wine in which is luxury . Ephes . 5. But sayth an English writer ; I am told , that the Pope both permits them , and takes money of them too for that permission . You haue been told many other false tales by those who think it lawfull to tell vntruths , so they speak but against the Pope : in the meane time , I that haue been fiue times in Rome , can tell you the contrary , if by permitting you meane allowing and aproueing of them in that course . There 's a great difference between allowing , and permitting a thing . Moyses allowed not , but yet permitted the libel of diuorce to the Iewes for the hardness of their hearts . So vsury is permitted , but not allowed in diuers countries , for trades sake . But why takes he money of them ? This money is taken vp by you vpon credit not , the Pope . For the Pope is so farre from receiuing any money of these drabbs that he goes to great cost , to hinder their trading . No man perhaps hath told you this , and therefore , I le tell it you , know then that the Pope to hinder all yong women from being naught , hath founded Hospitals for poore girles , where they are carefully brought vp till they become either marryed wifes , or Nunns . Nay , he giues them dowries also to execute this their choyce , distributeing yearly vpon the Feast of our Ladyes day in Lent , in the Church of the Domicans supra Mineruam , a purse of money a peece , to three hundred yong mayds who are presented to him by the ouerseers of the foresayd Hospitals . Nor is this all : for he causeth yong girles of tender yeares , to be taken from their poore suspected mothers , least pouerty , quae cogit ad turpia , should make them sacrifice those tender virgins to rich mens lusts . In fine , he hath caused a Monastery to be built in Rome to receiue those poore vnfortunate women in , who would leaue that infamous course , if they had but meanes to liue on . Nay , he granteth Indulgences to any that will marry any of those women , to free them from that lewd course , and make them mend . All this the Pope doth ; and much more ; which would be a destroying of his owne trade and gayne , if it were true , that he countenanceth and alloweth of whores for his gayne . No miller euer deturned the current of water from his owne mill . But why doth not the Pope discountenance and punish whores that are knowne to be such ? He doth so . For is it not a discountenanceing of them , to forbid them to come to publick meetings , and assemblyes , where women of honour meet ? as , at the Corso , in the euenings ; at publick mariages ; at their sung operas ; and the like ? is it not a discountenanceing of them to forbid thē to go in coaches in the day time ; or to stirre out of dores in the night ? Is it not a punishment to them ; to forbid them to liue together , where they might encourage one an other , and passe their time more cheerfully ? But for the most part they liue alone , condemned to the melancholy horror of their crimes , and the solitude of seauen whole weeks in Lent , when vpon payne of rigorous punishments and imprisonment , they dare not admitt of any customers . The like rigour is vsed against them also in Aduent , that dureing the space of those holy times , these vnholy women may haue time to think of themselues , and admit of Gods holy inspirations for their amendment . Is it not a punishment to them to be obliged to enter their names publickly in the list of whores ? For , if Tacitus obserues that the old Romans , satis paenarum aduersum impudicas in ipsa professione flagitij apud Aediles credebant , thought it punishment enough against vnchast women , in their very profesing themselues to be such before the Aedils ; I cannot but think it a great punishment to Christian whores ( who are at least as sensible as the heathens , of the horrible disgrace of haueing their name listed ) to be thus defamed for euer , by remaining whores vpon Record . Is it not a punishing of them , to depriue them all their life time ( as long as they liue whores ) of the holy Sacraments ; and after their death , of Christian Burial ? Is it not a punishment , and a deterring of them from vice , to throw their bodyes when they dye , into an obscure place out of the walls of the towne , as if they deserued no other Burial place then that of Asses ? Is it not , in fine , a punishment to them , not to be allowed to make any Will , or Testament , but to leaue all their goods confiscated either to the Hospitals of poore honest girles , or to the maintaining of those gards , that are to watch ouer their deportments ? If these punishments both of body , soul , and honour , be inflicted vpon whores in Rome , as they are , do not vrge any more , that whores are not punished in Rome , nor discountenanced . But why doth not the Pope punish them home , and roote them quite out by banishment ? This hath been attempted by diuers Popes , and namely by Pius Quintus of happy memory ( as Thuanus in his history writes ) but seeing greater inconueniences , and greater sinns arose vpon it , prudence , which is the salt that must season all moral actions , thought it not fit to carry on that rigour ; nor yet allow of fornication neither . So that all the permission of whores in Rome that can colourably be imagined ; is onely a not punishing of them in all rigour ; and euen that too , for a good end ; and to hinder greater euils . But the Pope being both a Temporal , and an Ecclesiastical Superiour , is bound , in my mind , to break through all respects , and settle innocency in the world . It s zealously spoken ; and I wish he could do it : but difficilem rem optas , generis humani innocentiam : he wisheth a hard thing who wisheth for the innocency of mankinde , sayth a wiseman . And if Princes sometimes do not punish factious subiects ; when they see , that the punishing of them would pull the whole State in peeces ouer their heads , and put the whole kingdome in danger , as it did in Henry the Thirds time in France vpon his causeing of the Duke of Guise to be killed in Blois : If Generals of armyes take no notice of some treacherous commander , who is vniuersally beloued by the soldiers ; least the punishing of one man , loose them the affection of the whole army , as we saw latey in the case of Lubemirsky ( how truely guilty I know not ) and some yeares ago I remember in the case of Walstein , whose punishment had almost vndone the Emperor : why may not the Pope without approueing the sinn of whores , prudently waue the punishing of it with all rigour , when he sees that such rigour would cause greater disorders in that hot nation , and in that citie where all nations seeme to club vices , as well as vertues ? Hence learned Abulensis , a great Diuine sayth ; Licet leges humanae aliqua mala permittant non puniendo , nullum tamen malum permittunt statuendo . But the Pope should not gouerne according either to human policy , or human Lawes and Examples . You pretend zeale , but you would do well to take her sister Prudence with her , as our Sauiour did , who when he heard his disciples desireing him to let them call downe fire from heauen vpon the criminal Samaritans , answered them calmely , you know not of what spirit you are . Nay , doth not God himself , who being able to punish all criminal persons , and roote them quite out of the world , suffer both his Sun to rise and shine vpon sinners , and sinners to offend in this sunshine , and often by it ? Hence S. Thomas sayth much to my purpose : Humanum regimen deriuatur a diuino regimine , & ipsum debet imitari . Deus autem quamuis sit omnipotens , ac summ● bonus , permittit tamen aliqua mala fieri in vniuerso , quae prohibere posset ; ne iis sublatis , maiora bona tollerentur , vel maiora mala sequerentur . Humane gouerment is deriued from diuine gouerment , and ought to imitate it . Now God , allthough he be allmighty and highly good , yet he permits euils to be done in the world , which he could hinder , least by taking away them , greater goods should be taken , away or greater euils should follow . But I wade too farre into this puddle : yet remember who thrust me into it , and you l pardon me . Behinde the Church and Conuent of the foresayd Penitents , stands the Church of San Syluestro in Capite , so called from the picture of our Sauiours head and face , which our Sauiour himself made by miracle , and sent to Abagarus King of Edessa , as you may read at length in Baronius , and in Bosius in his rare booke called Roma Sotterranea . Now this picture is kept here in this monastery ; and with great probability , seing it was here that diuers Greek Monks driuen out of their country by Constantin Copronimus for the defence of sacred Jmages , were entertained by the Pope Paul the First ; and it s very likely that these good men brought with them this famous picture of our Sauiour to saue it from the fury of the Iconoclasts . Returning from hence into the Corso againe I went to see there the Colonna d'Antonino , the Great Pillar of Antoninus the Emperor . It s built iust like that of Traian described aboue . It was built by Marcus Aurelius Antoninus the Emperor in honour of his Father Antoninus Pius . It s all of white marble engrauen without with a basso rilieuo from top to bottom , containing the memorable actions of Marcus Aurilius . It s 175 foot high , & hath in it 206 stairs which lead vp to the top of it , and 56 little windows giuing light to those stairs : and yet this high Pillar was made of 28 stones of marble . The caruing that is vpon it , contains the braue actions of Marcus Aurelius ouer che Armenians , Parthians , Germans , Wandals and Sarmats , or Polonians : but age hath so defaced these bassi rilieui that its hard to decipher them . He that 's curious to know them , may buy them in the printed cutts sold in Rome . Vpon the top of this pillar stands mounted the statue in brasse guilt of S. Paul set vp here by Sixtus Quintus . From the top of this pillar I had a perfect view of Rome , and of almost all the Seauen hills vpon which it is built , and are within the wals : which are these . 1. The Capitolin hill where now Ara Coeli stands and the Conseruatorio . 2. The Palatin hill I could not see because it stands behind the former . It was so called from the Emperors Pallace that stood vpon it . 3. The Auentin hill so called from Auentinus king of Alba buryed here where now S. Sabinas is . 4. The Coelian hill beginning at S. Gregories and running to S. Iohn Laterans . 5. The Esquilin hill , exquilinus quasi excubinus , because of the nightly watch and gard vpon it . Here stands S. Mary Magiors . 6. The Viminal hill , so called from Vimina , that is , Osiers , where with it was anciently couered . Here stand the Thermae Diocletiani and the Villa of Montalto . 7. The Quirinal hill so called from the temple of Quirinus , or Romulus which stood vpon it . Here now stands Montecauallo . These were the Seauen ancient Hills of Rome , to which were added three more , to wit ; The Ianicule Hill , so called , from Ianus buryed here . Here stands S. Pietro Montorio . The Vatican Hill , so called from the Vaticinations and southsayings made here . S. Peters Church stands now vpon it . The Pincian Hill , now called Montrinita . Descending from hence I went to the Pazzorella , where they keep madmen and fooles ; and saw there strange variety of humours in folly : yet I was pleased to see with what charity and care those poore men were tended there . From hence I stept to consider , in the piazza di Pietra , the row of curious pillars which adorned the Basilica of the Emperor Autoninus who had his pallace here , and his Forum . Then turning by little vnfrequented streets , I came to the Roman Colledge belonging to the Iesuits . It s a faire building , and stands conueniently for concourse of schollers from all parts . Here I saw the schooles , & Gallery of famous Athanasius Kerkerius , full of pretty curiosityes and experiences both mecanical , mathematical , and hydraulical : yet in my opinion , it s farre short of Canonico Settalas gallery in Milan , or Monsieur Seruiers in Lyons . Here 's also a faire Library hauing no fault in it but the common fault of most Libraries , to-wit , Locks and keys to it . Good bookes should be as common as the sun , seing they are the lights of our mindes and made publick by the presse : and I camot but pitty a booke that 's emprisoned and locked vp in a Library , by saying vnto it : Odisti claues & grata sigilla pudicae , Paucis ostendi gemis , & communia laudas . In fine , I saw here the Apothecaries shop where a Lay brother maKes excellent Roman Treacle , and other odoriferous distillations of souerain Vertue . The Church belonging to this Colledge is designed to be a noble thing , but it s but half built for want of a whole founder . From hence I went to the Dominicans Conuent , called la Minerua , because it s built vpon the Place where anciently stood the Temple of Minerua . Hence also the Church is called Sancta Maria supra Mineruam . In this Church I saw many neat Tombes , as those of Leo the X , and Clement the VII , both Popes of the house of Medices : they stand in the Quire , and are neatly wrought by that great artist Baccio Bandinelli . Then the Tombe of Cardinal Pimentelli a moderne Cardinal . The tombe of great Cardinal Morone , Legate for the Pope in the Council of Trent , and a man who had been thirteen times Legatus a Latere . Here also lye buryed the ashes of Egidio Foscarari Bishop of Modena called in the Council of Trent , Luminare Maius . The tombe of a Lady of the family of the Raggi , is very neat for the new manner of spreading ( as I may say , and as you would think ) of black marble vpon an other coloured marble ; and both of them vpon a round pillar . Here on the gospel side of the high Altar standeth a statue of our Sauiour made by Michel Angelo , of white marble , a rare peece . At the entrance of the great dore of this Church , lyes buryed vnder a plain flat stone , Thomas a Vio Caetanus S. Thomas of Aquins Second , his Brother in Religion , his Namesake , his learned Commentator , and onely not hee . Out of humility he would not be buryed within the Church , but out of it . In the Sacristy of this Church , I saw the Chappel of S. Katherine of Siena , and this Chappel was once her very chamber in Siena : Cardinal Antonio Barberino Protector of this order , caused it to be transferred hither from Siena . Her body lyeth vnder the Altar of the Rosary in this Church . From the Minerua I went to Saint Andrea de la Valle , a fine Church belonging to the Theatins . It s built vpon the place where the Theater of Pompey stood anciently ; and where in latter times stood the Pallace of the family of the Picolomini ; and perchan● this was the reason why two Popes of that family , to-wit , Pius Secundus , and Pius Tertius are now buryed in this Church . The Cupola was painted by Caualier Lanfranco ; the three corners vnder the Cupola and the tribune are of the hand of Domenichini . The neat Chappel of the Barberini made by Pope Vrban the VIII while he was but yet Cardinal , is built vpon the very place where S. Sebastian was beaten , and throwne into a sink after he had been shot . There had been formerly a little Church built vpon this place , and ouer this sinke , but Sixtus Quintus gaue leaue it should be pulled downe , vpon condition a chappel of the new designed Church should be built in place of it . In fine , take all this Church together , and it is one of the neatest Churches ( except the Basilicae ) that are in Rome , being of the Architecture of Maderna . In the piazza , or rather , the street which goes before this Church , liued not long agoe , Pietro della Valle that ingenious Roman gentleman , who hauing spent great meanes in traueling , hath left vs three volumes in quarto of his curious relations of Voyages . In his house here he had three whole Mummies with their coffins or cases painted anciently , and adorned with diuers hyeroglyphs . He spent much money in buying many other rarityes , which he kept also here . Behinde this Church liued , when I first was acquainted with Rome , an other great Virtuoso and Gentleman of Rome , I meane the ingenious Caualier Pozzo with whom I was brought acquainted , and saw all his rarityes , his curious pictures , medals , bassi rilieui , his excellent bookes of the rarest things in the world , which he caused to be painted , copied , and designed out with great cost . From hence I went to the Pallace of the Duke Matthei , where I saw many good pictures and statues , especially that long picture representing fully the manner of Clement the VIII his going from Rome to take possession of Ferrara . Thence falling in at S. Carlo in Catenari , a neat round Church , I went to the Cancellaria . This pallace was built of the stones of the Coliseo by Cardinal Riarij . The chief thing I saw in it was the gallery of pictures of Cardinal Barberin , who being Vicechancelour , liueth alwayes in this pallace to exercise his charge the better . This pallace lookes into the Church of San Lorenzo in Damaso , a Collegiate Church . Vnder the high Altar reposeth the body of S. Damasus Pope . The walls of the body of the Church are rarely painted with the history of S. Laurence . Not farre from hence stands the Pallace of Farnesi belonging to the Duke of Parma . Before it stands a noble piazza with two rare fountains in it . The Pallace it self is one of the best in Rome , or elswhere . It makes an I le , that is , it hath no houses ioyning to it . The forme of it is square , and it hath in the midst of euery square , a great dore letting you into the court . This Courtis built vpon pillars and arches , with a faire open gallery aboue letting you into seueral appartiments . In this Court I saw the famous statue of Hercules leaning vpon his club , which was found in the Thermae of Antoninus Car●calla : one of the legs is moderne , the rest old , and made by Glyco an Athenian , as the Greek words vpon it told me . There is an other statue of Hercules opposit to it , and iust like it , but not so good , being but a copie of the former . The other statues here of the two Floras , the two Gladiators , and others , are excellent peeces . Mounting vp the great stairs to go into the chambers and open Gallery , I saw the curious Statue of the boy and the Dolphin : and at the dore of the great Hall , the statues of two Parthian captiue Kings . Entring into that hall I met presently with the rare statue of Alexander Farnesi , Duke of Parma , trampling vpon two prostrate statues representing Heresy and Rebellion ; while Fame crownes him . All these four seueral persons are of white marble , and of one entire stone . It s pitty that such a statue stands not in some more publick place , to teach men to beware of the mother and the daughter , Heresy and Rebellion ; and shew them , what long hands Kings haue . In the same Hall I saw the two excellent statues of Charity , and Plenty , in cumbent postures ; and they are the fellowes to those two statues which adorne the Tombe of Paulus Tertius , the rayser of this Family , in S. Peters Church . Round about this roome also stand a world of statues of gladiators , standing with their swords in their hands , and in seueral postures , vpon their gard . In the next chamber I saw rare pictures containing some actions of Paulus Tertius ; and they are of the hand of Saluiati and Federico Zuccari . There is also the picture of Luther disputeing with Caietan : and a picture of the four Latin Doctors of the Church , S. Hierome , S. Ambrose , S. Augustin , & S. Gregory , of the hand of Perdonini . In an other chamber , a world of ancient statues of Philosophers and Poëts : as Euripides , Plato , Possidonjus , Zeno , Seneca , Diogenes , Bacchus , Meleager , and others . An other roome full of pictures of choyce hands , and a curious table of pietre commesse about 12 foot long & 5 wide . Then the rare Gallery of statues , with the roof of it painted most admirably by the rauishing hand of great Hannibal Caraccio , and containing the representation of the loues of the Heathen Gods and Goddesses . This painting may be compared , yf not preferred , before all the Galleryes of Rome , or Europe ; and the very cutts of it in paper pictures , sold at the stationers shops , are most admirable , and worth buying . In the same gallery also stands the incomparable statue of Apollo in a flint stone . Here is also a curious Library in which besides the curious bookes , are many rare peeces of miniature , and rare pictures of Raphael , & Titian , and diuers excellent designes of the same Raphael , and of Michel Angelo ; that especially of his Iudgement . Returning againe through the same roomes , I could not but gaze againe at the statue of my fauorite . Heros , Alexander Farnesi , and began at last to think that I was mistaken euen now when I sayd , that Hercules his Statue stood in the Court below ; for vpon better reflection , I finde no statue in the pallace to resemble Hercules so much , as this of Alexander of Parma ; of whom I may say , as Sulla sayd of Caesar , In vno Caesare , multi sunt Marii : in one Alexander of Parma , there are many Herculeses . Then mounting vp into an appartiment ouer the former , I saw diuers chambers exquisitly furnished with pictures , and lesser statues . In the long gallerie there are diuers rare peeces of the hand of Caraccio . In the other roomes many ancient curious things , as an ancient peece of painting found in Adrians Villa and made fifteen hundred yeares agoe ; an other ancient picture of Eugenius the IV studyeing , and S. Bernard standing by him . A rare designe of Vassari representing a towne in Flanders taken by Alexander Farnesi . Michael Angelos true picture . The Venus of Michel Angelo . The little old picture of our Lady and S. Iohn Baptist in a small mosaick worke . A Crucifix in Iuory of Michel Angelos makeing . The designe , or rather the perfect model of the bridge throwne ouer the Sceld , by which Alexander Farnesi tooke Antwerp . A great cabinet of Medalls ; with a world of other rarityes too long to be related , but neuer enough to be seen . Then descending into a little back court , I saw there the famous Toro . It is a statue of a great Bull , to whose hornes a rope being tyed at one end and at the other end of it a womans haire , two lusty fellowes are striueing to push this bull from a promontory into the sea below , and the woman together with him , to make her away . The story is knowne , and it is of Amphion and Zetus , who to reuenge their mother Antiope , for the wrong done her by Dirce ( who had got Licus King of Thebes to repudiate Antiope for to mary her ) tooke this Dirce , and tyeing her to a bulls hornes threw them both , the Bull and the woman , into the Sea. The Bull , the two brothers , the woman , a little boy , and a dog , are all cut out of one marble stone . The snaffling fellow that keeps this Bull , or rather , whom this Bull keeps , will tell you another story of this statue through the nose : but seing he sells his story , as well as tells it , you had better giue him à Iulio betimes to be rid of him , then heare another long and new fable . Going from hence into the great Piazza againe , I stept into the house of the signori Pighini , which stands ouer against the Pallace of Farnesi , to see two statues , the one of Venus , the other of Adonis ; both ancient ones , and so rarely made , that the Earle of Arondel , late Lord Marshal of England , offered twelue thousand crownes for them , but was refused . Passing from hence towards the pallace of Cardinal Spada , I entred into it , and there saw many exquisit pictures . Thence I went to Ponte Sisto , and from thence to the Hospital of the Trinity , which receiues all Pilgrims comeing to Rome , for three dayes , and treateth them plentifully . I confesse , I went often hither , and as often admired the wonderfull charity which is done here dayly ; but especially in the holy week in lent , by the Confraternity of this Hospital , of which , most are gentlemen . Here Noblemen , Bishops , and Cardinals wash the Pilgrims feet , and then serue them at supper in the long Refectory , where there are frequently in the holy week , four hundred pilgrims at once , at table . Returning from hence I went to S. Girolamo della Charita , a Church , and house of good Priests , and most of them Gentlemen , liuing of their owne expences , yet all in community . S. Philip Neri instituted them , and liued among them thirty yeares . In the Church I saw vpon the High Altar , an excellent picture of S. Hierome . Hard by stands the English Colledge , once an Hospital for the English , and built by the English marchants in Rome , to receiue English pilgrims in ; because a poore English woman had been found worryed by dogs in the night , for want of a lodgeing . In the Church of this Colledge , lyes buried Cardinal Alan , the last English Cardinal of our Nation . From hence I went to the Chiesa Nuona belonging to the good Priests of the Oratory . This is one of the neatest Churches in Rome , and the best serued . It s all painted in the roof by the rare hand of Pietro di Cartona , and richly guilt . Here I saw the neat Chappel of S. Philip Neri , a primitiue Saint in all things but time . He was the Institutor of this holy Company of Priest , who are Religious men in all things but in vowes , and name . The Chappel and Altar of this great Saint is on the Gospel side the of High Altar , his true picture there , was made by Guido Rheni . Vnder this Altar , in a lower Chappel , or Vault , lyeth the body of this Saint in an iron chest : if you desire to know his merits and life , aske all Rome which lately saw them , and dayly feels them . On the other side of the High Altar within the rayles , lyes buryed Caesar Baronius , once a Priest of this house , and forced , after much reluctancy , to be made Cardinal by Clement the VIII . He deserued this honour in the opinion of all men , for hauing written his incomparable Ecclesiastical history ; and if Hercules , for helping Atlas to beare vp heauen one day onely , was faigned by Poëts to haue deserued to be taken vp to heauen ; I may iustly say , that Baronius deserued well the purple of the Church , for haueing alone borne vp the cause of the Church of God , against a whole troope of Centuriators . For my part , I reckon it among my felicities , to haue liued after Baronius , and to haue spent a good part , of three yeares study in reading his Sacred Annals , which cost him ten times three years study in writeing . And here I could enter into a fair field of his prayses ; and like the Eagle in the story , hauing nothing els to giue him , giue him a feather , that is , one cast of my pen ; but that I write of countyes now , and not of men ; and that his full prayses may be included in those three short encomiums ; Ecclesiae Cocles ; Caesar Christianus ; Orbis Locupletator . The house of these good Priests deserues also to be seen for the Libraryes sake , which is one of the best in Rome : and for the great Oratoryes sake , where there is euery Sunday and Holyday in winter at night , the best Musick in the world . From hence I went to the Church de la Pace , a neat Church and adorned with excellent painting and statues . Here many famous painters haue signalised their memoryes , as Peruzza of Siena , Vasari , Lauinia a Lady of Bolognia , Fontana , Gentileschi , Caualier Gioseppe , Rossi , and Raphael Vrbin himself , who painted the Prophets and Sibylls in the Chappel of Augustin● Chigi : and some think that he made the little boyes that are so well done . The statues of S. Peter & S. Paul , are of the hand of Michel Angelo . Going from hence through the street of the Stationers , I came to the Piazza di Pasquino , which is thought to be the very center of Rome . And here I cannot forget Pasquin himsefe , who forgets no man. This Pasquin is an old broken statue , something like that of Hercules in the Beluedere described aboue , and of some rare hand . And bcause it stands neare three , of four streets , whereby to escape when they haue fixed their Libells ●eering wits set vp here , and father vpon poore Messer Pasquino , their Satyrical ieasts , called from him , Pasquinades ; which Morforius , another statue neare the Capitol , vseth to answere . From hence passing on to the Church of S. Pantaleon belonging to the Fathers of the Scholae Piae , I was willing to enter into it , and see it , because four hundred yeares ago , it was a Collegiate Church , and possessed by English Priests , as may appeare by the Inscription vpon a Bell which was cast then . From hence I stept into Piazza Nauona , called so by corruption from Piazza d'Agona , because this piazza was anciently a Circus for sports , and it was called Circus Agonalis . In the midst of it anciently stood a great Egyptian pillar with hieroglyphs vpon it ; and now of late it hath gotten an other such pillar set vp here by Pope Innocent the X , with a rare fountain yssuing forth at the foot of it , and adorned with four great statues of white marble representing the four parts of the world . In this place also stands the new Church of S. Agnes built vpon the place where she was condemned to the stews . This Church is built at the cost of Prencipe Pamphilio , whose Pallace ioynes vpon it . This Pallace ouer looking the Piazza Nauona deserue not onely a glance of an eye , but also an houres inspection within . The chambers are many and faire , and the great Hall a most lonely roome , if painting , and variety of pictures in frames can make a house hansome . In this Piazza also I saw the pallace of the Duke of Bracciano , of the house of Orsini : and that of the family of Torres . The Spanish Church here , called S. Iacomos , is not to be forgotten : Here lyes buryed in it Petrus Ciaconius a learned Critick for a Spaniard . The picture here in oyle of San Diego is of Annibal Caracio . Oueragainst the back dore of this Church stands the Sapienza , a faire Colledge , where the publick Lectures are read . This Colledge was begun by Eugenius the IIII , but much beautifyed of late with hansome schooles and a neat Church , by Vrban the VIII . and a publike Library by Alexander the VII . We haue had , in my time , two Englishmen that were Readers here ; Doctor Hart ; and Doctor Gibbs a Noble Caesarean Laureat Poët , & the Horace of this age . From hence passing through the Piazza Madama , and before the Pallace of the Grand Duca , I went to S. Lewis his Church belonging to the French Nation . It s a hansome Church , and well serued with French Priests . There 's also an Hospital belonging to that Church and Nation . In the Church I found vpon a pillar on the left hand , the picture of great Cardinal Dossat a French man , whom I may iustly call Great , because he was both a great Statesman , and yet a very good man ; that is , he was a great seruant to his King ; and yet a great seruant of God. His rare Letters shew the one ; and his life written by Du Verdier , shews the other . Here lies also buryed in the middle almost of this Church , an English Priest of great vertue , by name , More , of the family of great Sir Thomas More , and heire of that family , if I mistake not . His yonger brother and hee striuing whether of them should be Priest , it was his prerogatiue of age , which makeing him to be four and twenty before his brother , made him enter into Orders before him and become Priest ; leauing the Estate to his brother . It was hee , that set vs out the life of Sir Thomas More in English : at last , retireing to Rome to be Agent for his brethren the Clergy , hauing ended his businesse there happily ( which was the procureing of a Catholick Bishop ) he ended his life so too , and was buryed here by his owne choyce . From hence I went to the Pallace of Iustiniani , which is hard by . Here I saw so many statues of the old Heathen Gods , and such roomes full of old marble feet of them , that you would almost sweare the Heathen Gods , when they were banished out of the Pantheon , had been committed hither as to a prison : or that some of the ancestours of this house , had been shoomakers to the old Gods , and therefore was obliged to haue their lasts and measures . For they had Gods of all sizes , seing ( as Varro sayth ) they had 30000 Gods ▪ a world of these statues are yet seen in the Gallery aboue , and in euery roome in the house , which they clog rather then adorne . And yet scarce one of them , but is a Palladium to this Family ; and would portend its sudden ruine if alienated . For , as I remember , the old Prince Iustiniani dyeing without heirs male , left this man his heire , with this prouiso , that he should not so much as alienate one statue vpon payne of forfeiting the whole house and goods . Iudge then , whether he had not need to keep these statues chayned vp , as the Tyrians did their Gods in a Siege : or whether the throwing of one of these statues out of the window , would not be properly a throwing the house out of the windowes . Vpon which occasion , I cannot omit to tell you how the ancient statues of Rome were growne at last to be so many in number , that ( as Cassiodore sayth wittily of them ) posteritas pene parem populum vrbi dedit , quàm natura procreauit , posterity had made almost as many men by art in the Citie , as were made by nature . And these statues grew to that excesse too , that marble ones were thought too Vulgar , and gold and syluer ones were erected by riotous men , who scorned to be like others in any thing but in being mortal . But to returne againe to this house , I cannot leaue it without minding you of some rare pictures , of Titian and other prime masters , which are showne in the Gallery aboue ; especially the rare picture of S. Iohn the Euangelist of the hand of Raphael Vrbin ; and that of our Lady and S. Joseph in an other roome , which is a rare copie of that famous picture in the cloyster of the Annunciata in Florence , of Andrea del Sarto . From hence I went to the Church of S. Eustachio , hauing seen in the way , the goodly ruines of the Therme of Alexander Seuerus . In the Porch of this Church I saw an Inscription in a stone , which told me that Alexander of Parma was Christened here with his brother , being twinns . This Church stands in the place where S. Eustachius with his wife Theopista , and his sonns Agapitus and Theopistus , were put into a brazen bull & martyred by the brazen heart of Trajan , whom Eustachius had serued twice as General of his Armies , and gained him as many Victories . From hence J went to the Rotonda , otherwise called anciently , the Pantheon , because it was dedicated to all the Gods. This is a bolder peece of Architecture then men think . For whereas other Vaults are strengthened and made good by being shut vp close at the top , and in the center of the Vault , which hinders the Vault from shrinking ; here this great massiue vault is left wide opē at the top , with a hole aboue three yards wide in diamenter . Indeed Sebastianus Serlius , an experience● man in Frabriks , thinks this Church to be the vnick example of perfect Architecture ; and Pliny in his time , placed it among the rarest works that were then extant . It hath no windows in it , nor any other light , but what comes in at the wide hole mentioned oboue . Anciently it was couered with brazen tiles , and those guilt too , as Lipsius thinks ; but now it s couered with great flatt stones . It s a hundred and forty foot high , and as many broad : and yet it hath no pillars to beare vp that great roof . Indeed it hath thrust all the Pillars out of dores , and makes them waite in the Porch ; where there are thirteen great pillars all of one peece , each one 53 foot high , and six in diameter , all of a garnite , or spackled marble . The Capitelli of these Pillars are the best in Rome of Corinthian order . Here is the Tombe of the incomperable Painter Raphael Vrbin . Ille hic est Raphael , timuit quo sospite Vinci Rerum magna parens , & moriente mori . In this Temple stood anciently the famous Minerua made by Phidias of which historyes ring . Here also was placed the Statue of Venu● , in whose eare that incomparable pearle of Cleopatra hung , which vpon a ryotous wager with M. Antony ( whether of them should make the most costly supper ) she was going to throw into a glasse of vieger to macerate it ( as she had done another before ) and drink it vp : But M. Antony stopping her hand , and confessing himself ouercomne , the Pearle , sayth Pliny , was put in the Eare of Venus in the Pantheon . In the round holes ouer the Altars , where set those heads of the Gods of the Heathens , which are now seen in the Beluedere of the Maschere . This Temple and its Porch , were so lined anciently with brasse , that there was enough of it to make diuers great Cannons , by Pope Vrbans command , and the great Canopy with the four pillars which adorne S. Peters High Altar . And though the People and Pasquin , two equaly sensless things , murmured much at the takeing away of this brasse , yet seing the Pantheon receiued no damage therby , and seing it was improued to that height , that it became Ecclesiae Ornamentum & Vrbi Munimentum , the wiser sort of men thought it well employed , and let the people and malice talke . I had almost forgot to tell you , that this Temple was made by Agrippa , who had been thrice Consul , as the words in the Architraue of the porch yet shew . From hence I went through the Campo Marzo , vnto the Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina , which is serued by Cherici Regolari Minori . It s an ancient Church neatly repaired of late , and the greatest Parish Church in Rome . From hence I went to see the Pallace of Burghesi which is hard by . This is one of the noblest Pallaces in Rome . It giues you a faire broad-side of windowes , three storyes one ouer another ; and its lenght is prodigious . Mounting vp to the Chambers J found a fair open Gallery built vpon arches and pillars round about the Court. This Gallery lets you into seueral appartiments ; and on that side which ouerlooks the Piazza , J saw a row often or twelue great Chambers through which I looked at once . In these chambers and the other roomes , I obserued these things . 1. Rich hangings , and ouer them rare painting made by a Capucin Lay-brother . The history of the Queen of Sabas comeing to visit Salomons Court , and the rapt of the Sabines , which make this Fregi● ouer the hangings , are so rarely well done , that Raphael and Michel Angelo would not haue mended them for colours . 2. A great Cabinet of Ebeny , set with historyes cast in gold , and set with rich pretious stones ; it s valu●d at threescore thousand crownes . 3. A rare picture of Hercules and Anteus . 4. Raphaels owne picture . 5. The last supper by Titian . 6. The Terrasse and garden with boxe kotts and fountains of water , all at the very top of the house and ouer looking the street , riuer , meadows , and S. Peters . 7. The little back gallery of pictures , where among others , I was showne the pictures of Martin Luther , Nicolas Macchiauel , and Caesar Borgia ; There great Corruptors ; of Religion , Polioy , and Manners 8. The low coole gallery full of statues and pictures , especially of the Borghesian Family . That of Paulus Quintus in a small Mosaick worke is scarce to be discouered from painting : as also the Assumption of our Lady in the same worke . There I saw also Titians owne picture , and the rare Crucifix made by Michel Angelo , so to life , that some men haue fabulously giuen out that he drew it after a crucifyed man. From hence I went to see the Mausoleum Augusti , or the Tombe of Augustus Caesar , standing neere S. Rocks Church in a priuate place hard to be found out . It was once one of the neatest structures in Rome . And it was but fitting that the first of the Emperours should haue an honorable tombe ; and that hee who hauing found Rome built of brick onely , had left it all of marble , should haue a marble monument erected to him after his death . Vrbem Lateritiam inueni , marmoriam relinquo : sayd Augustus . The Mausoleum was a round building of white marble , going vp with four storyes set round with pillars , and each story growing lesser and lesser , with green trees set ab●●t euery story ; hauing at the top of ●ll , the brazen statue of Augustus , It was two hundred and fifty cubits high . But how it s much defaced , and we see something of the greatness of it , but little of its beauty . Going from hence to the Church of S. Antony of Padua belonging to the Portughesi , I saw the Tombe of the Great Canonist and Casuist Nauarre or Martin Aspelcuita , with his statue in busto ouer it . This good man hearing how his great friend Caranza was called to Rome to answer for himself in points of doctrine , which he was falsely accused of ; followed him thither of his owne accord , to deffend his cause and cleare his innocency , and hauing done it , died here . Neare to this Church stands the Church and Conuent of the Austîn Friers . In the Church I saw the Tombe of S. Monica mother to S. Augustin . Here also lyes buryed Onufrius Panuinus , a Fryer of this Conuent , learned in sacred antiquityes , and in the Hebrew tongue . In the Conuent I often saw the neat Library , called Bibliotheca Angelica , bec●se Angelus Rocca , a Bishop and Master of the Popes Sacristy , gaue it at his death to his Conuent ; with an obligation of letting it be open in the mornings . Among many curious bookes , I remember to haue seen there the Prophecies of Joachim , where among other things , he sayth , that the Turks shall be ouercomne and ruined by three nations : by the French , propter bonos equos : by the English , propter bonos marinarios : and by the Venetians , propter bonum consilium . These are his very words . Neare to the forsayd Church stands the Church of S. Apollinaris , and the Germā Colledge . Here the best singers of Rome meet constantly . Ouer against this Church stands the Pallace of the Duke of Altemps ▪ In which I saw the great Hall , and in it , the Triumph of Bacchus in a basso rilieuo cut in marble with exquisit arte . I saw also here the representation of a Towne cut in wood , an ancient and curious peece . The picture of our B. Lady with her son in her armes , valued at fiue thousand pistols ; it is of Raphaels hand . The neat Library full of diuers good manuscripts and other books . In fine the noble Chappel with the Tombe of S. Anaclet Pope vnder the Altar with the head of this Saint in the Sacristy , enchased in syluer and set thick with rich stones . The rich ornaments here for the Church seruice , cost the Duke a hundred and twenty thousand crownes . From hence , in fine , I went to S. Iohn Florentins a neat Church belonging to the Florentins , at whose cost it was built . Here is in one of the Chappels the picture of our Sauiours Resurrection made by Lanfranc a rare peece . And being lodged neare this Church , I found that I had wandered ouer all Rome , and was now come againe to the Bridg of S. Angelo , were I began my first dayes iourney through Rome . But seing that in such townes as this , there is alwayes something to be seen after all , I made many irregular excursions vp and downe Rome , to view many things , which I had not taken in my direct way before : as some pallaces , some rare fountains , diuers antiquities , studies of virtuosi , and the like , which I haue been forced , for methods sake , to passe ouer : yet because there are whole bookes of all the pallaces , fountains , statues , and antiquityes , set forth in cutts and pictures , I remit my Reader to them , while I aske one question . Where are now those rare peeces of antiquity which historyes rather mention , then we finde now in Rome ? as the Cymboum Marij ; the Gregostasis ; the Curia Hostilia ; the Golden House of Nero ; the Theater of Pompey , of which Tertullian sayth , Pompeius Magnus solo suo theatro minor ; the Forum Neruae ; the Theater of Statilius Taurus ; the Septizonium Seueri ; the Tower of Mecenas ; the Hippodromus ; the House of Gordianus ; the Circus Flaminius ; the Circus Maximus ; the Atrium Libertatis ; Scipios house ; the Triumphal Arch of Augustus Caesar , of Domitian ; and a world of other such rare buildings , whereby the Romans thought to haue eternized their memories ; if you aske for these things in bookes , you shal finde their names onely ; if you looke for them now in Rome , you shall finde no markes at all of them : which makes me cry out with Petrark ; Crede mihi aliis quam lapideis fundamentis eget gloria , vt sit mansura : beleeue me true permanent glorie stands in need of other foundations then those of stone . Hence Ianus Vitalis an ingenious Italian Poet , hauing obserued , that all the old massiue buildings of Rome are moultered away , and that Fluide Tyber onely remains still , cryes out with this sweet moral . Disce hinc quid possit fortuna ; immota labascunt , Et quae perpetuo sunt fluitura , manent . But I cannot leaue Rome without taking notice of the Deuotion , Musick , Ceremonies , shows , Gouerment , and the inhabitants of this place : of each of which I will giue a touch , both for my Trauelers sake , and my Readers . And first , for the Deuotion of Rome I found it to be very great and real in those places where the Quarante Hore and Stations are kept . For all the yeare long the Quarante Hore go from one Church to an other , through all the Churches of Rome ▪ and there you shall alwayes see a world of deuout people praying and meditating , and hearing the sermons , and giuing of almes , and all this with that profund respect and silence , with that assiduity and concourse , with that feruour and zeale , that you need not aske where the station is , but onely obserue where you see the people flocking so fast in the morneing , and where the poore make the greatest hedge and lane . In other Churches of Rome vpon their festiual dayes ( which happen almost euery day , in one place or other ) they haue the best musick can begot and though this seems to draw mens eares to the Church , rather then their hearts ; yet when I remember what eleuated thoughts it breeds in the minde ; and how innocently it detaines men from doing worse , I cannot but place Church musick among the acts of deuotion . Now , as for this musick , it is the best in the world , and in the best kinde , which is voyces . For my part , hauing read in a learned Author , that the hateing of musick is a signe of a soul quite out of tune , and not right strung for predestination ; and that the Scythian king , who held the neighing of his horse , to be farre better musick , then the pipe of famous Thimotheus , was held for an asse himself ; I thought it both comely and lawfull to loue musick : & being in a place where the best musick was , I frequented it often with singular satisfaction . Now the best musick I heard , was the musick of the Popes Chappel consisting of pure voyces , without any organ , or other instruments : euery singer here kowing his part so well , that they seem all to be masters of musick . Then the musick of the Chies● Noua ; of S. Apollinaris ; vpon S. Cecilyes day in the Church of that Saint the Patronesse of singers ; of the Oratory of S. Marcello euery Friday in Lent ; of the Iesuits dureing the Quaerante hore in Shroftide ; of euery good Church of Nunns vpon their patrons day ; especially that of the Nunns of Campo Marzo , where I heard often Fonseca sing sorarely well , that she seemed to me , to cheere vp much the Church in its combats ; & to make the Church Militant either looke like the Church Triumphant , or long for it . In a word , whosoeuer loues musick and hears but once this of Rome ▪ thinks he hath made a saueing iourney to Rome , and is well payed for all his paynes of comeing so farre . Haueing giuen my eares many a break-fast vpon the musick , I gaue my eyes many a Collation vpon the Ceremonies of Rome , which were chiefly these . The Ceremony of the Popes opening of the Porta Santa , of S. Peters Church in the Iubily yeare . The Ceremonies of the Popes Chappel , when he assists there , especialy vpon Candlemasse day , Palmesunday , Mandy Thursday &c The Ceremony of the Popes washing of thirteen pilgrims feet ; of his singing masse publickly in S. Peters Church vpon S. Peters day and other great dayes ; the Ceremony of Beatifyeing and of Canonizeing of Saints ; the Ceremony of his creating new Cardinals , and giuing them their capp in publick Consistory , the Ceremonie of the Masse sung in Greek and according to the Greek rites , in the Church of the Greek Seminary , vpon the Feast of the Epiphany , and S. Athanasius his day ; the Ceremony of baptizeing the Iews ; with a world of others . One ceremony I was not vnwilling to misse in my fiue seueral voyages , because it alwayes implies the death of a Spiritual Father , I meane , the Ceremony of a Sede Vacante : and of all the bad complimen●s that euer I heard made , I like none so ill as that of a noble man of Germany , who being asked by Pope Innocent the X , whether he had seen all the Ceremonies of Rome , answered , that he had seen all , but a Sed● Vacante , as if he had sayd ; Holy Father , I haue seen all the fine sights of Rome , but your death . A horrible Tramontane compliment , which put euen the Pope himself to a smile . As for the Showes , I saw diuers , both Sacred and Prophane . As the wipping Processions in the Holy week . The great Procession from S. Marcellos Oratory to S. Peters Church vpon Mandy Thursday in the Holy yeare . The Spanish Procession in Piazza Nauona vpon Easter day in the morning in the Holy yeare . The Procession of the Zitelle vpon our Ladyes day in Lent. The Procession of the Priests of the Oratory vpon shrof-tuesday to the seauen Churches ▪ with fiue or six thousands persons following of them , all whom they treat in an open field , giuing euery one a couple of hard eggs , and a slice of salsigia , with bread and wine . The seueral Caualcatas of the Pope and Cardinals . The Spanish Caualcata vpon S. Peters Eue , when the Spanish Embassador presents the purse of gold , and the Gennet . The Girandola and fire workes vpon S. Peters Eue , and diuers such like sacred triumphs . For the Prophane Showes , I saw the solemne Entryes of Embassadors , especially those of Obedience , wh●ere each Princes Embassador striue to out vye the other , and by excessiue expences make their masters greatness appeare aboue that of others . Their Caualcatas to Court vpon their publick audience : their reception in a publick Consistory : their audience of Leaue , are all stately . Then the curious Opere , or musical Drammata recited with such admirable art , and set forth with such wonderfull changes of Scenes , that nothing can be more surprizeing . Here I haue seen vpon their stages , riuers swelling , and boats rowing vpon them , waters ouerflowing their bankes and stage , men flyeing in the aire , serpents crawling vpon the stage , houses falling on the suddain , Temples and Boscos appearing , whole townes , knowne Townes , starting vp on the suddain with men walking in the streets ; the sunn appearing and chaseing away darkeness , sugar plumms fall vpon the spectators heads like haile , rubans flash in the ladyes faces like lightning with a thousand such like representations . In fine , the Carneual pompes in the streets exhibited by noblemen with great cost and glory . As for the Gouerment of Rome , I found it diuided into two parts : the Gouerment of the Citie ; and the Gouerment of the Church . That of the Citie is exactly performed by a Gouernour ( some Prelate of great parts ) constituted by the Pope to watch ouer the Citie carefully , and to render him an acount weekly of all that passeth . This Gouernour liueth alwayes in the heart of the Citie , and hath besides his owne gards , a Barigello or Captain of the Sbirri or Sergeants , to keep all in order and awe , both day , and night . This Barigello hath , Argus like , a hundred eyes to spy into the deportments of all that liue in Rome , and , Briareus like , as many hands , to carry to prison those that infringe the Lawes . Hence iustice here is as exactly performed , as orders are discreetly giuen out . The prices of all things are printed and affixed in publick places and shops ; Inns and Tauernes are bound to haue them set vp in their entrance , that strangers may know the rates of all prouisions , and blame none but themselues , if they be couzened . So that it s as hard a thing to be couzened here , as its hard not to bo cozened in other places . And for those that cannot read , or speake the language well , Sbirri wil aske of them , what they payd a meale , how much for a pound of meate , how much for a pinte of such and such wine , &c. and if they finde them to haue been cozened either in the quantity , weight , or price , they le right the stranger beyond his expectation , and punish the delinquent beyond his desire . The last Iubily yeare I was showne some of the Sbirri in Pilgrims habits on purpose , to mingle themselues with the other pilgrims , the better to obserue how they were vsed or abused by their Hostes in Inns and Tauernes , and accordingly punish them . In fine , iustice is so well administred here , and imprisoning cases so many , that the last Prince of Conde being in Rome , sayd he wondred much at one thing there , which was to see so many men go out of their houses in the morneing , and returne home againe to dinner without being imprisoned . A kinfe in a mans pocket , a darke Lanterne , a sword worne without leaue , &c. will suffice to make a man be sent to prison : and a pockes pistol found about you , or in your cloakbag , is enough to make you be sent to the Gallyes with tre tratti di corda , that is , the strappada thrice : yet they mitigate the rigour of these lawes to strangers who offend out of ignorance . As for the gouerment of the Church , that 's done partly by the Pope himself in seueral Congregations held before him : partly by his Vicar General , a Cardinal who hath vnder him a Vice-Gerent ( a Bishop ) to help him . There 's scarce a day in the week but the Pope holds one Congregation or other , about Church affairs , in which Congregations not onely Cardinals interuene , but also Bishops and Doctors ; and where all businesses are headed , as well as handled with great deliberation . Euery three weeks the Pope holds a Concistory , where all the Cardinals that are in Rome , meet his Holyness , as at a Grand Counsel , to aduise with him concerning the necessary affairs of the Church . And its pretty to see how like the motions of a well ordered watch , all businesses here moue at once , and yet neuer interfere or clash with one another . As for the Inhabitants of Rome , they follow the fortune of their Citie ; and as when Rome was but yet a new towne , the inhabitants where but three thousand in all , sayth Dionysius , and when it was comne to its full grouth , it had three or four millions of people , in so much that in a great plague the Bills of mortality came to ten thousand men a day , and this for many dayes together : so now Rome haueing been six times s●ckt and ruined ( as I sayd aboue ) is not the tenth part so populous as heretofore it was ; and euen those inhabitants that are now in Rome , are for the most part originary from other parts of Italy and Europe ; and haue been drawne to take vp here either by preferments or business . The Nobility it self is for the maior part forrain and sprung out of such families of Popes , Princes , and Cardinals as haue been forrain before their promotions and preferments . The true ancient and illustrious Roman families I found to be these few , Vrsini , Colonna , Sauelli , Frangepani and some few others . Hauing thus , as Painters do , taken Rome in all her postures , I confesse it happened to mee , as it did to Apelles takeing the picture of Compaspe ; that is , by looking so often and so attentiuely vpon Rome I began to be so farre in loue with it , as not onely to subscribe to Cassiodorus his opinion , who affirmes it to be akind of crime not to liue in Rome , when you can do it . Piaculi genus est absentem sibi Romam dintius facere , qui in ea constitutis possit laribus habitare ; but also to subscribe to our old Britain Kings , Cadwallader , Cedwalla , Coenred , offa , Ina and Burrhed , who thought Rome also to best place to dye in . For if those places be thought by all men , the best places to liue in , where a man may learne the most experimental knowledge , & how to menage great affairs ; where can a man learne more knowledge then in Rome ? where all languages are spoken , all sciences are taught , the ablest men of Europe meet , all the best records are found , all wits appeare as vpon their true theater , all forrain Embassadors render themselues , all Nuncios at their returne to Rome vnload themselues of the obseruations they haue made abroad ; and where euery stone almost is a booke ; euery statue a master ; euery inscription a lesson , euery Antichamber an Academy ? And againe , if those places be the best to dye in , where all comforts of the soul are best had ; what place can be better to dye in then Rome ? the very center and bosome it self of Catholick Communion ; and where there is so much Deuotion , and so much Vertue partised ; and where you haue this comfort also in you graue ; that you lye in a ground which hath been bathed in the blood of so many thousand martyrs . And thus much of Rome , in the describeing of which , if I haue been too Frolixe , remember that great Ladyes are long in dressing : if too short , remember that I onely relate what I saw there , not all that is to be seen there . Hauing thus seen Rome , I agreed with the Procaccio , to carry me to Naples . Others take with them a Vetturino , that lets them haue horses , and dyets them to ; I meane , defrayes a man for meat and drink and horst hire both going , and comeing , and your horse fiue dayes at Naples ( but not your dyet there ) and lets you haue his horses two dayes , to go see Vesuuius and Pozzolo ; and all this for fourteen , or fifteen corwnes a man. It s true , a man is ill lodged , and bad by treated in that iourney , but it doth a gentle man good to be acquainted with hardship . Parting then from Rome by the Gate of S. Iohn Lateran we passed through these places . Marino , a neat little towne belonging to Cardinal Colonna . It lookes like a painted towne . Veletri , famous for the birth of the ancesters of Augustus Caesar . Here 's a brazen Statue of Vrban the VIII , and a neat pallace and garden of Cardinal Ginetti . It s an Episcopal towne . The Tre Taberne where S. Paul was met , at his first comeing to Rome , by the Christians of Rome . Act. 28. v. ●5 . Peperno where Camilla the Amazon was borne . Fossa N●oua where S. Thomas of Aquin going to the Council of Lyons , fell sick and dyed . Taracina ( old Anxur ) the head towne of the Vols●ians , but now bare and bald ; showing nothing but some old ruines of the hauen which Antoninus Pius here adorned ; and of an old Temple . It s an Episcopal towne . Not farre from hence stood anciently the towne Amyclae , that Pythagorical , or Puritanical towne , which was ruined by Serpents , because none would kill them ; Pythagoras his doctrine forbiding men to to kill any liuing creature . An other time it was ruined by silence ; no man dareing to speak of the enemyes comeing ; too many false alarums haueing made the magistrats forbid vnder payne of death , that no man should speak any more of the enemyes comeing : so that when they came indeed , no man durst speak of it . Thus not onely Philosophy , but euen Silence it self and Obedience , two noble Vertues , are hurtfull to men , if they bee not accompanyed with discretion . From Taracina we went to Fundi to supper , hauing passed through a forest of baye trees , and through an open gate called Portello , which lets men into the kingdome of Naples . Fundi is so called because it s built in a low flat . It s ancient if you beleeue you eares , not your eyes . For it lookes yonger , then the other townes I had passed through before . The reason is , because this towne was burned some 130 yeares ago by Caradin Barbarozza , admiral of the Great Turk Solyman . It was this Caradin , who of á famous Pyrat , became King of Algiers , hauing perswaded those of Algiers to shake off the Spanish yoake . This Caradin being vpon the Mediterranean Sea , and hea●ing by his spyes , that Julia Gonsaga ( widdow of Vespasian Colonna , and the hansomest woman in the world ) liued here in Fundi , landed his men in the night , and sent them to catch her napping ; resolueing to make a fine present of her to his lewd master Solyman . But she leaping out of her bed , rid a way in her very linnen , escaped so narrowly , that had she stayd to put on any clothes , she had for euer , put off all liberty . The Pyrats missing of this fair Helena , fayled not to make a burning Troye of Fundi ; ransacking it and carryeing away the best of its inhabitants : such dangerous things are great beauties to weak townes . From Fundi we went to Mola , vpon the Via Appia , so called because Appius Claudius a noble Roman made it at his owne cost dureing his Consulat . This Cawsey is one of the greatest proofs of the Romans greatness and riches . For it was fiue dayes iourney long , begining at Rome , and reaching through the kingdome of Naples , to Brundusium . It was as broad as two carts might easily meet vpon it and passe : it was all of great black flint stones , each one as big as two men can carry , and layd so close together , that they haue held together these 1800 yeares , and Seeme , as Procopius sayth ingeniously , to be rather congeniti , then congesti , borne together , then layd together . The frequent passing of horses and mule● ( for so many yeares ) vpon this cawssey , haue made it both so smooth and shyneing , that when the Sunn shine● vpon it , you may see it glitter two miles of , like a syluer highway . Arriueing at Mola , called anciently Formiae , I went to see Ciceros Tombe which stands in a garden not farre off . And I the more willingly beleeue it to be his Tombe , because its certain , that Tully had a Villa in Formiis ( which was this place ) and thither he was going in his litter , when he was ouertaken by the executioners of the Triumuiri and beheaded . There are no words vpon his Tombe ; of which if you aske me the reason , I can onely tell you , that either words in prose could not speak , their Tully being dead ; or verses would not , out of enuy , prayse him , who had made prose so famous . Hauing seen this , some of our Company and I , tooke a boate and four lusty watermen , to row vs to Caëta and back againe , while the rest stayed at Mola to prouide dinner . Arriueing in little more then half an houre at Caëta , we went vp to the Castle , where we saw the skelleton of Charles Bourbon , once Constable of France , but afterwards takeing against his owne King vpon a disgust , he serued the Emperor Charles the V , and was made one of his Generals , and Gouernour of Millan . Where haueing borrowed mony of the Milanesi , and hauing layd a deep curse vpon Himself ( wishing the might dye in the first enterprise he vnder tooke ) if he payd not back the monye by such a time , he fayled in his word , but his curse did not . For his next enterprise was to go sack Rome : and there his curse met him as he scaled the walls ; & being shot with a musket bullet he was forced to pay his debt to nature . His body was carryed to Caëta , where it stands with its clothes , bootes and spurrs on , in a long boxe streight vp , with this Spanish Epitaph ouer his head . Francia mi dio la lecche , Fspagna los y Ventura , Roma mi dio la muerte , Gaëta la Sepoltura . France gaue me milk , Spayne great employments gaue , Rome gaue me death , and here Gaët a graue . This Castle standing vpon a Promontory ouer looketh the towne , and thirty miles of Sea. In the end of the towne , towards land side ( for this towne is a pure Peninsula ) I saw the Clouen Rock , which Tradition here holds to haue been thus clouen at our Sauiours death : The long stairs going downe between the two mountains in the very open gash , and rendering you to a neat chappel below , strike you all the way long with a sacred reuerence , and are able almost to rend also a stony heart in two , with the thought of our Sauiours passion . Vpon the top of all this Promontory there is an ancient monument of Manutius Plancus an old Roman , with a great deale of old Latin vpon it ; but my rideing boots put me out of all reading humour , and I was very willing to let Plancus lye quietly in his monument aboue , so I could but recouer againe our boate & there sit still . Of this towne was the famous Cardinal Caëtanus , of S. Thomas Aquinas his name , order , and almost learning . This towne was built by Aeneas in honour of his Nurse Caëta who dyed here . Returning againe to Mola we went after dinner to see Ciceros Grotte , and so away . We had not ridden three houre● but we came to the Ferry of Carigliano , neare to which J saw the fair rests of an old amphitheater standing alone in the fields , with the rests also of an Aqueduct . I wondered at first to see an Amphitheater standing alone , and farre from any great towne : but vpon enquiry , I found that here had stood once a noble towne called Minturna , but now so ruined , that not one stone of it appeareth . Indeed we are often at this fault in Italy , and looke for townes in corne fields . Luna , Populonia , Cuma , Baiae , and Minturna cheat thus our expectations , and leaue vs no monument of themselues , but a poore Fuit Jlium : which though it be Trauelers losse ▪ yet its mans comfort , that townes to dye as well as hee : Hence Rutilius : Non indignemur mortalia corpora solui ; Carnimus exemplis oppida posse mori . Hauing passed ouer the riuer in a Ferry boat , we entred vpon the medows , in whose fennes called ( the Fens of Minturna ) Caius Marius lay hid a while , and there with his sterne lookes and manly voyce , saying , Darest thou kill Caius Marius ? so terrifyed the slaue that was sent thither to kill him , that he let him escape to his ship , and so into Africk . He may speak big that speaks for his life ; and any lookes become a man , when he lookes to himself well in dangers . While we rod along these medows we saw before vs the mountain of Garo , anciently called Mons Massicus , famous for excellent wines ; as well as the country there about , which was called Ager Falernus , so famed by Poets for its Vinum Falernum . Passing thus along we came at night to S. Agathas , and the next morneing betimes we enterd into Campania Foelix , so surnamed because of its admirable ayre , wonderfull plenty of corne and wine , and pleasants prospects on all sides , which makes an Ancient call it , C●rtamen Cereris & Bacchi , the Strife of Ceres and Bacchus . It was this country which with its delights , broke Hannibals army ; which neither snow could coole , nor Alpes stop , nor Romans Vanquish , sayth Seneca . Indeed the pleasantness of this country made vs a full mends for all the ill way we had had before : nature hauing set that scuruie way there a purpose , that men might like her Fauorite Campania the better after it . I call this country Natures Fauorite , in imitation of Pliny , who calls it , Opus gaudentis naturae , that is , a country made by nature when she was in a good humour . It s a Heathen that speaks , and you must pardon him . We intended that day to haue gone to Capua to dinner , but when we came thither , we did not finde it at home . For this towne now called Capua is two miles distant from the place where old Capua stood . Indeed the old Capua was a towne of importance : for it was either the second , or third in the world ; and stood in competition , as Carthage did , with Rome : Nay , it demanded of Rome to be vsed like a Sister , not like a Subiect ; and stood high vpon it , that one of the annuall Consuls should alwayes reside here . But that Capua is vanished with its vanity ; and this Capua hath no reason to be so proud , being famous for nothing but that action of many noble women here , who to auoyd the insolencies of the French soldiers ( receiued into the towne friendly ) leapt into the riuer Vulturno to saue their Virginity & honour , from their lewdness : an action rather wonderfull , then warrantable . There is a Castle here of pretty strength , a good riuer , and an Archbishops Seat. From Capua we passed through Auersa , a sweat Seat of a towne , and once great , till Charles the I , King of Naples , almost ruined it . It s a Bishops Seat still . Here it was that Queen Ioanne of Naples strangled her husband Andreasso ; and was her self not long after , serued so too in the same place . Traueling some eight miles further we came to Naples before we could see it . This towne was anciently called Parthenop● from one of the Syrens . It s now called Neapolis , a new City ; because the inhabitants of Cumae hauing , out of iealousy , ruined Parthenope , were sore vexed with a plague , till they had built it vp againe better then before . This happened about the yeare of the world 1449. As for Naples , it s now the head of a great kingdome so called . This kingdome belongd once to the Emperor : but after that it had been ouerun by Sarazins , and freed by Pope Iohn the Tenth vnited with Alberic● Marquis of Toscany , it acknowledged the Church for its mistrésse , and the first man that was inuested by the Pope ( Innocent the Second , an . 1130 ) was Roger the Second , a Normand . Since that time , the French and the Spaniard haue strugled hugely for this kingdome : sometimes the one plucking it to him , then the other . But now it s vnder the Spaniard , who holds it of the Pope , and for it payeth euery yeare the purse of gold and the Gennet spoken of aboue . This kingdome is of great importance to Spayne . It makes his party too strong for France in Italy . It corresponds conueniently with Sicily , and Milan , and strengthens them both . In fine , it beareth vp notably the interest of spayne in the Court of Rome : and it squeizeth it self now and then , into huge summes , four millions of crownes , to send tribute into Spaynes coffers . For this kingdome is a thousand fiue hundred miles in compasse , four hundred and fifty wide . It hath in it twenty Archbishops Seats ; a hundred and twenty fiue Bishops Seats ; a thousand fiue hundred Bourgs ; two millions of soules : ten principalityes ; twenty three Dutchies ; thirty Marquisats ; fifty foure Countyes ; and about a Thousand Baronies , whereof four hundred are ancient . It can rayse a hundred and fifty thousand foot , and a hundred thousand horse . It s ordinary squadron of gallyes are but 20. As for the towne it self of Naples , if it be the third of Italy for greatness , it is the first for strength & neatness ; and therefore deseruedly surnamed , La Gentile , the Gentile . It hath Compania on one side of it , and the Mediterranean Sea on the other : so that its fed by Natures best duggs , Sea and Land. Its ayre was alwayes esteemed so pure , that the great men of Rome had either their Villas in Naples , or hard by . It s well built , well paued , well furnished with excellent prouisions , well filled with nobility , and the nobility well mounted . The chief street is strada di Toledo , paued with freestone , and flanckt with noble Pallaces and houses . We entered into some of them , and others we saw which had not recouered their embonpoint since they had been sick of Mazaniellos disease . Their very looks shewd vs that their sickness had been Conuultion-Fitts . The chief Pallaces are these : The stately Pallace of the Viceroy , that of Grauina , Caraffa , Vrsino , Sulmone , Toledo , &c. Most of the houses of Naples are made flat at top , to walk vpon : a most conuenient thing to breath vpon in the fresh Euenings , and easy to be imitated by other countryes . I saw here also the seueral publick places of Assemblyes of the nobility , according to their seueral rancks . These places are like open walking places , rayld about with high iron rayles , and painted within . Then the Molo running a quarter of a mile into the Sea , 〈…〉 and affording great refreshment to the townes men , who walk here in the euenings in sommer , where they are sure to coole their lungs with a sweet fresco . At the end of the Molo stands mounted the high Lanterne to direct ships home safe in the night ; and a fine fountain of fresh water . As for the Churches here they yeeld to none in Italy . The Domo is ancient , and therefore out of the mode a little : yet it hath a moderne Chappel , which is very beautifull : and is one of the finest in Europe , both for brazen statues & rich painting . The Cupola was painted by the rare hand of Domenichino . In this Chappel , is the tombe of S. Ianuarius Bishop of Beneuent , and now Patron of this towne ; whose blood being conserued in a little glasse and concrete , melts and growes liquid when it s placed neare to his Head , and euen bubles in the glasse . A French nobleman Count of la Val , was conuerted from Caluinisme to the Catholick Religion vpon sight of this wonder . On the left hand of this Chappel without , lyes buryed Pope Innocent the IV , who ordered first , that Cardinals should weare red hatts . The Verses vpon his Tomb● told me this . In the Sacristy are kept many pretious guifts of Princes , and diuers Relicks of Saints enchased in gold and syluer . The Annunciata is both neat and deuout : the Cupola and roof are well painted & guilt . The two Infants of Bethleem with their seueral wounds , one in the head , the other in the body , are showne here . The Hospital is ioyneing to it , and is of great reception . It maintaines two thousand sick and decrepid in it ; besides aboue 800 orphans & poore children . Neare the great Hospital stands S. Peters Church , and before it th● Altar , vpon which ( as the Inscription sayth ) S. Peter sayd masse at his first comeing to Naples . The Theatins Church called S. Pauls , is very neat : and if you saw it with its best hangings on , you would think it one of the neatest Churches in Italy . The roof is curiously painted and guilt . Here I saw the rich Tombe of Beato Caëtano a holy man of this Order ; and the Tabernacle of the High Altar , both ▪ very rich . In the Sacristy they ha●● as rich ornaments as in any Church of Italy . The Iesuits Church here is the best they haue in Italy , if it be not a little too wide for its length . In the Sacristy I saw the richest ornaments for the Altars , and the best syluer candlesticks , that I haue seen any where els . It s rich in painting , sculptures , & marble . The High Altar was not yet finished , but promiseth wonders . The Franciscans Church , called S. Maria Noua , is very trim with its neat Chappels , and Tombes , and guilt roof . Here I saw the Tombe of Lotrech , who commanded so long the French forces in this kingdome . His vertue in military affairs , was so great , that his very enemye● , admireing his worth , haue caused his body to be translated out of an obscure place , where it lay before , into this Church , and Tombe . I wonder they did not cause those words of Virgil to be put vpon it . Si Pergama dextr● defendi possent , etiam hâc defensa fuissent . The Church of the Dominicans is very hansome too , if you do not surprise it , and take it before it be dressed . I saw it once in its best attire , hung with a rare sute of embrodered hangings , which set it out with great aduantage . I saw also here the Crucifix , which spoke to S. Thomas of Aquin , the Doctor of this Order and Country , and sayd : Benè de me scripsisti Thoma . In the Sacristy of this Church are kept in seueral coffins ( some couered with white , some with black veluet ) the bodyes of seueral great persons , depositated here till their Tombes should be made : as of Alphonso the first , King of Naples and Arragon : of Queen Ioanne the vnfortunate : that of an Emperor of Constantinople : that of Durazzo : that of the Marquis of Vasti : with diuers others . The Church of the Oliuetan Fathers is stately : here lyes buryed Alexander ab Alexandro a great antiquary , whose ingenious booke Genialium dierum , giues light to many bookes by the vnshelling of a world of ancient customes of the Romans . In this Church also is the Tombe of braue Marchese di Piscara , surnamed the Thunderbolt of warre . The words vpon this Tombe are so ingenious , that ( though I professe not to set downe many Epitaphs in this my voyage ) I cannot but striue to carry them into other countyes . They are these . Quis iacet hoc gelido sub marmore ? Maximus ille Piscator , belli gloria , pacis hon●s . Nunquid & hic pisces cepit ? Non , Ergo quid ? Vrbes , Magnanimos Reges , oppida , regna , duces . Dic quibus haec cepit Piscator retibus ? Alto Consilio , intrepido corde , alacrique manu . Qui tantum rapuere ducem ? Duo Numina , Mars , Mors. Vt raperent quidnam compulit ? Jnuidia . Nil nocuere ipsi ; viuit nam Fama superstes , Quae Martem & Mortem vincit , & Inuidiam . The Church of S. Iohn Carbonare is considerable for it self , but much more for the stately Tombe in it , of King Robert. In the Church of the Nunnery which stands at the foot of the hill as you go vp to the Carthusians ; I saw a most curious Tabernacle vpon the Altar , of pretious polished stones . It s one of the richest I haue seen any where , but that of Florence described aboue , Then we mounted vp that windeing hill , to the Carthusians Church and Monastery called S. Martins . It s the most sumptuous thing in all Europe for a Monastery , whether you regard its situation , or its fabrick . It s situated vpon a high hil , lvnder the wing of the Castle S. Elmo ; to put Castles in mind , that they ought to defend and protect Religion . The whole quandrangle , or cloyster , of this Monastery , is of pure polished white marble , paued with marble squars , and adorned round with a baluster , and white marble pillars . Then entring into an open gallery we had as fine a prospect as Europe can afford , not excepting that of Greenwich , thought by Barclay , the best prospect in Europe . For here I saw all Naples vnder me , with the perfect sight of the two other Castles , with the hauen , the Molo , the Arsenal , the Ships , the country round about Naples , Mount Vesuuius , Pausilipus , the Ships at Sea , the Promontoryes of Misenum and Minerua , the I le of Caprea , with a world of other delightfull sights . Then I was led into the apartment of the Padre Visitatore , where I saw most neat roomes , and some good pictures . Then going to the Church I found it to exceed the cloyster , which before I thought to haue exceeded all other things . It s all of marble , guilding , and painting . The pauement is all of curious red and white marble squars , as is also the Sacristy . The Chappels and pictures match the roof , and the pillars , with their particular graces . The Sacristy is absolutely the richest I euer saw . The great cupbords are of such a rare mosaick woodworke inlayd into pictures , that it disputes hard with the Quire of the Dominicans in Bologna . Here they shewed me a great Crucifix of syluer , which had been fifteen yeares in makeing . The Remonstrance to expose the B. Sacrament in , is made like a sunn , whose beames are mingled with syluer and coral . The great Candlesticks of massiue syluer , and the great flower pots , are curiously wrought . Then I went to see the three Castles ; That of S. Elmo , which is hard by the Carthusians , was built by Charles the V. It stands well vpon its owne gard by reason of its high situation : but I doubt whether it can offend any enemy , except Naples it self which is vnder it . The Castle Vouo , was built by William the third of Normandy , vpon a rock in the Sea ; and from its oual forme , it s called Castel Vouo . There is a digue leading vnto it from the Land. The Castle Nuouo , was built by Charles of Anjou , designed King of Naples . It stands neare the Molo , and leuel with the towne and Sea , as if it could defend and offend both . These there Castles are garded by natural Spaniards ; and well furnished with great Cannons , by whose language ( which is vltima Ratio R●gum , Kings last arguments ) the Neapolitans are either catechized into duty , or threatened into obedience . Indeed such a people and towne , are not easily bridled : such a wanton Courser as Naples , is not to bee ridden with snaffles , it hath often plunged vnder the King of Spayne , but could neuer fling him quite out of the saddle , merce a gli tre Castelli . Then I went to see the markets here , and foūd them most admirable , especially those of fruit , which Campania sends hither : and where but the taxes taken off , or reasonably moderated , Naples would be the cheapest and richest place in the world . But the Kings officers if they suck in Milan , and Fleece in Sicily , they Flea in Naples : which vsage droue the people some yeares past , into such a desperate humour , that they tooke vp armes vnder the cōmād of Mazaniello : his true name was Thomas Angelus Maia , a poore fisherman without stokings or shooes , who for ten dayes together , swaggered here so powerfully in the head of two hundred thousand mutinous people , that when he commanded them to burne a house , they did it : when he commanded them to cast into the fire all the goods , papers , plate , beds , hangings &c. of the Gabelliers , they did it without reserueing the least pretious peece to themselues : when he commanded them to cry out : Downe with the Gabells , they did it : when he put his finger to his mouth , they were all silent againe ; as if this poore fisherman had been the soul that animated that great body of people . It was prodigious indeed that such a poore yong man ( not past 23 ) in wastcoat and drawers , and his fishers cap on , should finde such obedience , from such rich and witty citizens . But as tumultuous people make armes of euery thing their fury meets with , so they make Captains of euery man that will but head them ; and as the Prouerbe goes , In seditione vel Androclides belli ducem agit . They shewed me the house of this fisherman : but the other houses shewd me his fury . Thousands haue not yet recouered those ten dayes tumults . Thus we see , that when men are ripe for rebellion , Cromwells and Mazaniells are cryed vp for great men : or rather when God hath a mind to punish , flyes and gnats are powerfull things euen against Princes . Here are two Academies of w●ts the one called the Ardenti , to show their ardour in studyeing : the other the Otiosi , wisely instituted as an allay to the others heat . Some of the famous men for learning of this towne were , old Statius , rare Sannazarius , Alexander ab Alexandro , and Iohn Baptist Marini : three excellent Poëts , and one Antiquary . Naples hath furnished the Church with 18 Popes . Hauing thus seen the towne it self of Naples , I was most willing to see the wonders of nature which are neare vnto it . Horseing therefore betimes one morneing , we went with a guide to see Vesuuius the burning mountain , some seauen miles distant from Naples . Our honest guide had studyed the history of this hill , and could tell , how often it had broken forth into flames since the beginning of the world , that is , twenty times . Xiphilinus the Epitomist of Dio , relates at length one that happened vnder the Emperor Titus . But the last which happened in the yeare 1631 , he rememberd very well , and related it to me as we went along , with a sad preface , of Infandum Peregrine iubes renouare dolorem , because he could also say ; Et quorum pars magna fui , haueing been an Actor in that disorder . For he was sonn to a rich husbandman here , and with much a do , Aeneas like , he had rescued his old Father from the ashes of Vesuuius , which ouerwhelmed and buryed whole Villages . Here sayd hee , pointing to the place , stood a great vineyard one of the best of the Country ; but now three fathom deep in ashes . Here stood a Village full of rich husbandmen and goodly houses ; but now ruined by the stones shot at it from Vesuuius . Here stood once a pleasant Villa beautifyed with curious walks , orange trees , fountains , and arbors , but I am cinis est vbi Villa fuit . In a word , aboue two thousand people were burnt , lamed , or stifled in this eruption . Then he showed me the vast stones which ouerchargeing the stomach of Vesuuius , he had vomited vp , with such a boaking , that Naples thought the day of Iudgement had been at hand . Then he shewed me a channel , where a Riuer of fiery green matter mingled with brimstone , allum , iron water , and saltpeeter , had run from that spewing hill . The manner of this breaking out was thus . The hill began first to smoke more vehemently then before . Then it flamed and cast out a cloud of ashes , which , had the wind stood toward the Citie , had couered all Naples , and buryed it in those ashes . Then it began to roare as if Madame Nature her self had been in labour . Thunder was but pistolcrack to this noyse : and the mouth of a Cannon a full mile wide , must needs giue a great report . It bellowed and thundered againe : Naples trembled : the ground swelled : The Sea it self shiuered for feare ; when the hill tearing its entrals with huge violence , was brought to bed of a world of vast stones , and a fludd of Sulphurious matter which ran from the top of the mountain into the Sea for the space of three miles . All this he tould me , and this he shewed me afterward , in a publick inscription vpon a fair marble stone erected hard by . And all this made me but the more desirous of seeing this mountain . Wherefore spurring on , we came soone after , to the foot of the hill ; where leauing our horses , we began to crawle vp that step hill for a good mile together , to the midlegg in ashes . At last , with much a doe , we got to the top of the hill ; and peeping fearfully ( remembring Plinyes accident ) into the great hellow from the brinck of it , found it to be like a Vast Kettle , farre greater then those Hell Kettles near Deslington in the Bishoprick of Durham , made by earthquakes . For the orifice of this Kettle is a mile or two wide , and very nigh as deep . In the bottom of it is a new little hill riseing out of the hollow of the old , and fumeing perpetually with a thick smoke , as if it also would play tricks too in its turne . Hauing gazed a while at this Chimney of Hell ( for Tertullian calls Aetna and Vesuuius , Fumariola inferni ) we came faster downe then we went vp . Hee that is not content with this my short description of the burning of this Hill , let him read Iulius Caesar Recupitus , who hath made a little booke alone of it , called , De Vesuniano incendio Nuntius . Hauing recouered our horses againe , we came back to Naples ; and the next morning takeing a new guide , we went to see the wonders of Nature about Baiae and Puzzu●lo . Horseing then againe betimes in the morneing , we passed by the Castle Vouo , and soone after to Margelino , to see the Tombe of Sannazarîus the Poët , who lyes buryed in the Church of Santa Maria del Parto , which was once Sannazarius his owne house , which dyeing he left to be made a Church of , vnder that title : so that in his Testament he wrote de Virginis partu , as well as in his booke : and he might as well haue written vpon the Frontispice of this Church , as vpon the Frontispice of his Booke , opera Sannazarij de Virginis par●u . His Tombe here is adorned with marble figures and with this ingenious Epitaph made of him by Cardinal Bembo . Da sacro cineri flores . Hic ille Maroni Sincerus Musâ proximus , vt tumulo . His name was Iacobus Sannazarius , but he changed his name for that of Sincerus , at the request of Pontanus , who also changed his name too , and caused himself to be called Iouianus , as Iouius in Elogiis virorum Doctorum sayth . Not farr of this place , nor farr from the entrance of the Grotte of Pausilipus , in the Gardens of S. Seuerino , stands Virgils tombe , couered almost ouer with Laurel , or Ba●-trees : as yf that Poëts Laurel were growne into a Shadybower , to make a whole tombe of Laurel for the Prince of Poëts . From thence we returned againe into our way , and presently came to the entrance of the Grotte of Pausilipus . this Mountain lyeing at the very back of Naples , and rendering the passage to Naples extreamly inconuenient for carriages , it was thought fit to cut a cart way vnder ground , quite through the mountain : some say it was Lucullus , that caused it to be thus boared : others say , it was Cocceius Nerua . Certain it is , that it is ancient , seing Seneca makes mention of it . Entring into the Grotte of Paulisipus , we found it to be about forty foot high , and broad enough for two carts laden to meet with ease . They say here , that it is a full mile long ; but I thought it scarce so much . We rid some forty paces by the light of the wide entrance ; but that Vanishing , we were left in the darke a good while , till we came to the halfway , where there hangs a burning Lamp before the picture of our Sauiour in the B. Virgins armes . The light of this Lamp was very gratefull vnto vs ; and I am confident , a Puritan himself , were he here , would be glad to see this Lampe and Picture , and loue them better for it euer after . All the way of this Grotta is very euen and Leuel , but hugely dusty ; as a roome must be , that hath not been sweept these sixteen hundred yeares . The people of the country meeting here in the darke , know how to auoyd one another , by going from Naples on the right hand ; and returning on the left ; that is , by keeping on the moutain side going , and returning on the Sea side : and this they expresse by cryeing out often ; A la Montagna , or , a la Marina ; To the mountain side , or to the Sea side , to giue notice whether they come , or go . Our guide vnderstood the word , and he giuing it vnto mee , and I to my next man , it rann through our whole Brigade , which consisted of a dozen horsemen in all . Almost all the way we rid in it , we shut our eyes , haueing little vse of them ; and our mouths and noses too , for feare of being choked with the dust : so that our exteriour senses being thus shut vp , our interiour begā to worke more freely , and to think of this odd place . My thoughts , comeing newly from Sannazarius and Virgils tombes , fell presently vpon Poetry ( for all this country is a Poetical country ) and I began to think whether this were not Polyphemus his den , because Homer makes it to haue been neare the Seaside , as this is ; and capable of holding great heards of sheep as this also is . Sometimes I thought that it might haue been here , that Iupiter was hidden from his deuouring Father Saturne , who came into Italy for certain ; as also because Sophocles makes mention of Iupiter Pausilipus . But at last I concluded that this was the place where the merry Gods and Goddesses , after their iouial suppers , playd at hide and seek , without being hood-winckt . By this time we began to see the othe● end of the Grotte a farre off , by a little light which grew greater and greater till at last we came to the yssue of it . Being got out of this Cymmeran rode , we began to open our eyes againe to see if we could find one an other ; and our mouths too to discourse vpon this exotick place . Thus we rid discourseing vpon this wonder , till we came to the Grotta del Cane a new wonder . Arriueing there we presently had a dog ready ( though for the most part the doggs here runn whineing away when they see a troupe of strangers arriue ) and saw the experiment of that famous Grotta , which being but three yards within the side of the hill , may be seen without entring into it . The experiment is this . A man takes a dog aliue , and holding downe his head with a woodden forke to the ground , the dog begins first to cry , and then to turne vp the white of the eyes , as if he would dye . Then letting him hold vp his head againe , he recouers . And haueing thus , twice , or thrice , shewed vs the experience of this infectious place , he putts downe the dogs head againe , and holds it downe so long , till the dog seems to be dead indeed . Then takeing him by the stiff leg , and running with him to the Lake Agnano , some forty paces off , the throws him into the shallow water of this Lake , and presently he begins to recouer , and to wade out . They would make vs beleeue , that as it is the nature of this Grotta to kill : so it is the nature of this Lake to reuiue dead things againe . But if the dog were dead indeed , all the water of Agnano , though it were Aqua Vitae , would not recouer him : he is onely astonied with the infectious vapor which breatheth out of this Sulphurious ground below . The pestilent nature of this Grotte was shewd vs plainly by a lighted torch , which as long as it was held high from the ground , burnt clearly : but as it was approached by little & little , neare to the ground , it grew dimmer and dimmer , till at last it burnt blew , and being held close to the ground , it went quite out . Then we were showne hard by , the stones of S. Gennaro , which by a natural sulphurious vapour yssueing strongly from low causes , put a man presently into a sweat , and are excellent remedyes for the Neapolitan disease , called by some authors , Campanus Morbus : Nature , an indulgent mother , thinking her self bound to afford a remedy to the discorders which she her self hath enclined the Neapolitans vnto . Then fetching about the hills by a norrow vnfrequented way , we came to the Conuent of Capucins standing there where S. Ianuarius was beheaded . In a little Chappel on the right hand as you enter into the Church , they shewd vs the stone vpon which he was beheaded ; the blood is still vpon it . From hence we descended downe into the Sulphatara , where the burning Sulphur smokes out perpetually from vnder ground . This Sulphatara is a kind of pit enuironed on all sides with banks , and it is about 1500 foot long and 1000 broad . We rid downe into it on horseback , and it sounded hollow vnder our horses feet , as if we had been rideing ouer a woodden bridge . There are diuers spiracula , or Vents round about it , out of which the thick smoke presseth furiously , as out of a fornace ; and makes Poets and Potters finde matter enough ; those for their Fables calling it , Forum Vulcani : These for their Medicinal pots , which they make of this brinstony earth . Neare to Sulphatara stands a round poole of black thick water , which alwayes boyleth ; and what soeuer you throw into it , it comes out boyled indeed , but not entire ; something or other of it being alwayes diminished , sayth Leandro Alberti . One putting in four eggs in a long ladle , pulled out but three againe : I wonder Poets faigned not this Lake , to be that part of hell alotted to punish vsurers , seing it takes vse for euery thing that 's put into it . Descending from Sulphatara to Puzzolo , we wondered to see the very high way smoke vnder our horses feet , when yet we found not them so fiery vnder vs : but I found the smoke to come out of little chinks of the dryed ground : which shewd vs that the whole country was on fire vnder vs. Before we came to the towne , we saw the remnants of a faire Amphitheater , and Ciceros Academy . Immediatly after this we came to Puzzuolo , so called , either from the multitude of springs about it ; or els a putore , from the smell which this brinstony country affords . The towne is but little , yet anciently a Bishops Seat. Takeing boat here presently , we passed ouer the creek of the Sea to Baiae , which is three miles from hence ; and as we rowd along , I admired the wild designe of Caligula who built a bridge from Puzzuolo to Baiae : some of the Arches yet standing on both sides , show vs that his folly was real : and I beleeue Suetonius meant this worke , when he taxeth the insanas substructiones , the mad buildings of this Emperour . That which contributed much to the bold attempt ; was the nature of the sand of this country , which made into morter and let downe into the water , grows hard and solid , euen to petrify there at last . Puteolanus puluis , si aquam attigit , saxum est . Reaching the other side of the bay , and leauing our boate to attend vs , we rambled for an hour and a half among the Antiquityes of this ruined Paradise of Baiae : for you know , Nullus in orbe locus Baiis praeluxit amaenis . First we were led to the Mercato di Sabato , looking still like a street with ruines of houses on both sides . Thence we went to the Elisian Fields , which are much beholding to Poets for their fame : otherwise they are but a very common plot of ground without any gracefulness at all , except onely that if Baiae were a towne still , a man might make a fine Bowling ground here . But Poets who haue power and Licence to ●rect Ithacum into a kingdome , haue out-poëted it here , by erecting this little spot of ground into a Paradise . Thence we came presently to the Piscina Mirabili , a vast building vnder ground , borne vp by forty or fifty great squar pillars , lōg 150 paces , 40 wide , & 30 high . We descened into it by many steps , & it s so well walled with stone and lime on all sides , that water cannot sink through . and all this was onely to keep fresh water in , either for the Roman Gallyes that vsed to lye hereabouts in these harbours ; or els for the Romans gusto ; who hauing their curious Villas here abouts , had no mind to drink of the springs of this bituminous country . At the top of this Piscina Mirabili , I espied some spoutes of stone yet remayning , by which they vsed to let the water from aboue into this Vast Reseruer . Returning againe , we were showne the Promontory of Misenum a farre off ; and the Mare Mortuum hard by . Then we went into the Cento Camerelle , so called from a hundred little roomes that were built together like chambers within one an other , to keep slaues in , who serued the Gallyes . Going againe towards our boate , we were showne the place where Agripina should haue been drowned by a false bottomed boate : but that fayling , her sonn Nero caused her to be stabed here . Indeed breasts that had turned their blood into milk to giue suck to such a monster , could expect nothing else but to be emptyed of all their blood ; but she was designed to this ill vsage long before . For being foretold , when she was with child of Nero , that she had in her wombe a son who should be Emperor , but withall , who should kill her , she cryed out : Occidat modò imperet : Let him kill me , so he bee but Emperor ; and she had her wish . It s sayd also that this Parricide ( for , Nero nunquam sine publici paricidii praefatione nominandus est , sayth Valerius Maximus ) after his mother was killed , would needs haue her ript vp , that he might see where he had lodged nine months together : and I beleeue that nothing hastened more the conspiracy of the Romans against him , then rhat they could now no longer endure him , who could not endure his owne mother . Hard by the Shoare stands yet the Tombe of that vnfortunate Princesse . Then taking boate againe we rowed by the ruines of Marius , and Caesars Villas , and diuers others scrapps of antiquity , and all along in the water ( in a cleare day ) you may see the foundations of Baiae , and some Arches , and the pauement of the very streets ; all now in the Sea. Omnia fert aetas ; and Tim● , which in all other places , is called Edax rerum , may here be called Bibax rerum , haueing sipped vp here a whole towne . Rowing on still by the Shoare , we came to the foot of Neros Pallace neere to the ruines of which , stands mounted a strong Castle , built a la moderna , vpon a high Hill. Leauing here our boate againe , we were wished to put our hands into the sand of the very sea , which we found to burne vnder the cold water . Then we went hard by to Ciceros bathes , a great squar place , where anciently were written ouer head in old letters , the names of the diseases which these waters cured : which letters some Physitians caused to be defaced , pretending that they where superstitious characters ; when indeed they where vnwilling men should be cured by anything , but the strange characters in their recipes . Neare these foresayd Bathes , are those of Tritola , where we were led into the long Grotte , and presently put into a sweat by a stifling heat which mett vs violently in that long entry . I followed my guide , and findeing the steme to be choking , I stouped downe low behinde the guide , to let him break the hot ayre before me . As I thus stooped , I found out by experience , what others finde by hearesay , that the nearer the ground a man stoops here , the cooler he findes himself . Thus , Antëus like , fetching now and then succour from my mother earth , I found humility to be a safe remedy . In the middle of this long narrow Entry there 's a place , for those that stand in need of sweating , to stand on , stradling wide , and so sweat abundantly . They told me that at the end of this Grotta , there are bathes of souerain Vertue ; but I being well without them , had no minde to be choked in seeking out health . Returning from hence we had a huge walke of it to the Lacus Auernus , made by the Riuer Acheron , idest , sine gaudio : a fit name for the riuer of Hell. This Lake is famous for its stincking ayre , which was obserued to kill birds as they flew ouer here . On the further side of it , was the Temple of Apollo . Leauing this Lake on our right hand , we made towards the Grotte of Sibylla Cumaea , so called from the City Cumae , which stood not farre off ▪ this long Grotta was once a subterranean passage to the City of Cumae , ( as that of Pausilipus is yet to Naples ) and the Sibylles Grotte is that little darke Entry which stikes out of the long Grotta . This leads you to the Chamber of the sayd Sibylle and her bathes . It s a fine retireing place for a chaste mayd , that fears as well to see , as to be seen : Tam timet Videre , quam videri and such the Sybills were ; who for their Virginyties sake , had the guift of Prophecy giuen them , sayth S. Hierome . This Sibylla Cumaea prophecyed very particularly of our Sauiours birth , and for that reason Iulian the Apostata burnt her prophecyes , sayth Ammianus Marcellinus , a Heathen Historian of those times . As we returned againe from hence to our boat , we gazed vpon a great Mountain called Monte Nuouo , because it was cast vp in one night ( on Michelmasse night anno 1536 ) by an earthquake , which the Philosophers call Brasmarichus , that is , when the earth is throwne vp , and mountains are formed . Some hold this mountain to be three miles high but I think it enough to giue it a full mile . It couered ( at its riseing vp ) a great part of the old Lacus Lucrinus which was quite sucked vp by this great sop . Then takeing our boat againe we returned to Puzzuolo , and at night to Naples ; where we stayd but one day more , as well to rest our horses , as to see the silk shops , where they make curious silk wastcoats , stokings , scarfs &c. He that desires to know the History of Naples , let him read the booke called , Il Compëndio dell ' Historia di Napoli , di Collenuccio . Hauing thus seen Naples , we returned againe towards Rome the same way we came , without any danger of Banditi , but not with out some trouble caused vs by the officers of the Gabella at Fundi , who met vs a quarter of a mile out of the towne , and stopt vs vpon the rode to search vs , and see whether we had any thing lyable to the Gabella ; or more money of the country then the Law allows men to carry out . For my part , I had taken care of all this a forehand , and had nothing lyable to the greatest rigour . But some of our company that did not beleeue the rigour to be so great , found it . For to some they pulled of their bootes , searched their pockets , breeches , doublets ; nay , euen their saddles , horses tayles , and the very horses feet . From one gentlman they tooke four pistols of gold , because he carryed so much more then was allowed : though with much adoe we got the gentleman his money againe ; I haue knowe diuers that haue not escaped so well , hauing been stript in the open fields euen to their shirts &c. their watches taken from them , though they had brought them with them to Naples , and not bought them there . This is to learne my traueler to be inquisitiue in all his iourneys , of the Laws of the country where he traueleth , especially such obuious ones as concerne publick passages , bridges , ferryes , bearing of armes , and the like ; the knowledge of which customes will make thim auoyd many inconueniences , which I haue knowne others fall into . In an other voyage to Naples , in our returne to Rome we made little excursions , to take in some places about Rome , which we had not seen before , as Albano , Castel Gandulfo , Frescati , and Tiuoli , which lay almost in our way . Riseing therefore betimes at Veletri , we crossed ouer the hills , and came to Albano , ( anciently called Longa Alba ) and now one of the seauen Bishops Seats , about Rome which are giuen to the Eldest Bishop Cardinals , that they may be at hand alwayes , and ready to assist the Pope in his affairs of importance . The others are Porto , Ostia , Frescati , Tiuoli , Preneste , Veletri . In Albano , I saw nothing of moment , but an old Church , and some old houses : yet seing it stands in so good an ayre , I wonder the great men of Rome haue not built houses here , where the wine is so exquisitly good . Indeed this wine makes this towne bee much taken notice of by all strangers , as being the best wine that 's constantly drunck in Rome . Hard by Albano stands Castel Gandulfo , the Popes country house in sommer . It stands very pleasantly haueing on one side of it a Lake and woods , and on the other the Campania of Rome and the Citie it self in view . I stept into this Castel , but found nothing but bare walls , it beeing then vnfurnished . From hence We went to Frescati called anciently Tusculum . This is absolutly one of the sweetest places in Europe . The towne is but little ; but round about it , especially on the hill side , there are so many curious Villas , Pallaces , Gardens , Fountains , Shady walkes , and Sommer delights , that I wonder not if Princes , Cardinals , and other great persons retire hither in sommer . In a word , here Cato was borne , here Lucullus delighted himself , and Cicero studyed and wrote his Tusculans Questions . The first place we went to see here , was the Villa Aldobrandina . This Villa is also called , the Beluedere of Frescati , because it stands so pleasantly ; haueing the Campania of Rome , and Rome it self in sight on one side ; and on the other , the hill side all couered with Laurel trees , curious fountains , cascatas , and other delightsome water works , which afford here a coole season euen in the months of Iuly and August . The variety of these water works are so many and so curious , that I cannot but describe them . First then , the rare Cascata presents it self : and it s made thus . At the turning of a vast Cock , the water ( which is brought throught a great Hill , from a source fiue miles off ) spouts out of the top of two high windeing pillars of stone , which stand mounted vpon the head of a high pair of open stairs , and then falling downe vpon the same pillars againe , it follows the winding bent of them cut into channels and little gutters , and so warbles about these pillars visibly till it arriue at the foot of them . There findeing yssue , it falls vpon the foresayd stairs , and couers them all with a thin glideing streme , which mikes an open staircase of water . Besides , this water sets a number of little fountaeins on worke , which stand on either side of these stairs , and descends by degrees with them : so that in a moment the whole hill side is spowting out water , and filling the ayre with a sweet murmur . 2. Then the Gardener turneing an other cock aboue , giues at once , such store of winde and water to the great Girandola below the stairs in the Grotte of Atlas , that it imitateth perfectly Thunder , Hale , Rayne and Mist . 3. By this time , the great Statue of the Centaure with a hunters horne at his mouth , windeth it duely , and in perfect measure . 4. Pan also playes on his mouth-organ tuneably 5. Whilest the Lyon and the Leopard feighting together spit angerly in one anothers faces , though all passe in cold blood , because in cold water . 6. These waters also afford innumerable & inauoidable wetting places ; as the false stept in the stairs : the wetting place behinde Pan : the other wetting place behinde the Centaure ; and the little vnderground spowts on all sides . 7. Then the Hall of Apollo is opened , were he sitting vpon Mount Parnassus , and the nine Muses vnder him in a circle , with seueral winde instruments in their hands , strike vp all together melodiously ; whilest an vntouched organ vnderneath the hill , playes à soft ground to the Muses instruments . 8. During this melody , a little round hole in the midst of the roome bloweth out from below such a coole and stiff winde , that it bears vp a little hollow ball of copper , a yard from the ground . Ouer the dore is this distick . Huc ego migraui Musis comitatus Apollo . Hic Delphi , hîc Helicon , hîc mihi Delos erit . Then being led to see this hydraulick organ , and to view what fingers arte had lent vnto water ; I found the Organ to be made thus . First , the Pipes are like other organ pipes of lead , and set in a close frame as the manner is , with stops and touches to them . Close to these stops the force of water turnes a wee le , made like a great drum , and as long as the organ . This wheele hath in it , here and there , diuers peeces of brasse , about the thickness of a half crowne peece , and iust as broad as the stops of the organ . These brasse peeces sticking out iust so farre , as to reach the stops , in their turning about , and to presse them downe as the organists fingers do , and being placed here , and there , in that musical distance , as to strike their note in tune as they turne about leisurely , they all together compose a perfect and sweet harmony ; the winde pipe of this roome ( mentioned euen now ) serueth sufficiently for bellowes to his organ , as well as to the wind ●nstruments of the Muse● : & all is caused by force of water . But as we were taken with these water works , which make this organ play in tune , we were suddenly ouertaken with another watter worke , which playing terribly vpon vs put vs quite out of tune : so seldome doth winde come without water . Hauing seen this garden and Pallace , we went to the Villa of Prince Ludouisio which is hard by . The house is but little , but the garden is both large and adorned with store of waterworks : so that if the gardener befriend you not , you cannot escape without being soundly we● . One thing I obserued in this Pallace here , that the curtains of the beds are so wrought with little holes by neadle worke , that the ayre may enter by them , but not the gnatts . From hence we went to the Villa of Prince Burghese called Montedragone , from the Dragon in his armes . It stands a mile and a half from the Beluedere , and the way to it is through curious walkes of laurel trees . The house is stately , and capable of lodging a King with his whole court . The Chambers are neat and fit for both seasons , winter and Sommer . I saw diuers good pictures in them . The last Supper is of Alberto Dureos hand , and hugely esteemed . The story of Polyphemus is of the hand of Lanfranco . But that which pleased me best , was the hall below , full of the true pictures of famous men , both for learning and armes . It s an excellent schoole where a man may learne much true skill in physiognomy , and see how Worthyes looked . This Hall lets you out into the little neat garden where you finde water works , wetting sports , and a pretty girandola . Hauing thus seen Frescati , we went to Tiuoli some fifteen miles off . This is an ancient towne , standing vpon a hill some fifteen miles distant from Rome , and in sight of it . It was anciently called Tybur , and held by the Romans for a delicious place . We saw here the old Temple and the house of Sibylla Tyburtina . Then we saw the Cascata , much admired here by those that neuer were in Swisserland , or at Terni . This here is made by the Riuer Anio , which falls suddenly downe a stony rock , and fomes for anger to see its bed growne too short for it . Indeed it makes such a murmuring complaint against nature to the stones below , that it almost deafs , like the Catadoups of Nilus , all its neighbors . Thence we went to the Villa of Cardinal D'Esté . It stands high and ouerlooks the Campania of Rome . But the gardens of this Villa , is that which is here most looked after . They lye vpon the side of a hill , and are placed in four , rowes of gardens , with four degrees in in the descent , all furnished with Cascatas , Grottas , and other admirable waterworks ▪ the water is let in hi●her from the Riuer Anio , which runns behind this Hill. For they haue tappt the very Hill , and bored the rock quite through to the riuer ; so that the gardener here by turning a great cook , can let in as much water as fills the Fountains , the Cascatas , the Grottas , the G●randola , and the other rare water-works . Hence is made the great Fountaine of Leda ; the stairs of water ; the long walke of two hūdred paces , set all along with little stone fountains and bassins , purling in your eares , and casting out little iets of water as you walk along them . And here you shall see as rare things for sight and deligth , as the world can afford in this kind . Here a perfect representation of old Rome in a perspectiue : where you see the Capitol , the Pantheon , the chief triumphal Arches , the Circos , Theaters , Obelisques , Mausoleas , & euen Tiber it self : here curious groues of trees making a green spring in the midst of winter : here coole grottas and fountains , makeing a cold winter in the midst of Sommer : Here false birds chirping vpon true trees , euery one according to his true nature ; and all of them chattering at once at the sight of a false owle appearing and houling in a tree . Here curious Grottas , especially the Grotte of Nature , adorned with Nymphs , shelles , statues , and vnauoydable wetting places , and organs playing without any man touching them : there a fearfull Girandola of the Dragons , thundering as if they would set heauen on fire with cold water , and pelt Iupiter from thence with hailes stones . But I wrong these things which are rather to be seen , then described : and my traueler will wrong himself much , if hee staye not here three or four dayes , to view munitamente these wonders of arte . Hauing seen these famous places , we returned to Rome againe ; where we saw its chief rarityes ouer , and ouer againe : for Romam juuat vsque videre & all men that haue seen Rome onely once desire to see it againe : Hence the Romans takeing leaue of a stranger departing from Rome , after his first Voyage , say iestingly to him , a Riuederci ; that is , Farewel till I see you againe ; knowing that euery man who hath seen Rome but once , will desire to returne againe . For my part , I confesse I was of this sentiment in my first iourney ; but now hauing seen it fiue seueral times , I tooke a long leaue of it , and began to think of returning homeward by the way of Loreto , and Venice . And that we might be sure to be at Venice at the great solemnity of the Ascension , we left Rome the first week after Easter . We set out of Rome by the Porta del Populo , all along the via Flaminia , which rearched as farre almost on this side of Rome , as the Via Appia did on the other ; that is from Rome to Rimini . It s called Flaminia , because the Consul Flaminius made it by his soldiers in time of peace , least they should grow idle , and haue their strength to seek when the warre should break out . The rest of the way from Rimini to Bologna , was paued by Aemilius Lepidus the Collegue of Flaminius , and from him called Via Aemilia . This Via Flaminia led vs first to Ponte Molo ( Pons Miluius ) a good mile distant from the Gates of Rome , where Constantin the Great ouercame Maxentius the Tyrant , and droue him and his men , into the riuer . Here it was , I saw Tiber first ; and I wōdered to finde it such a small riuer , which Poets with their hyperbolical inke had made swell into a riuer of the first rate . Following on the way , we passed by Castel Nuouo , Ciuita Castellana , Vtricol● , & so to Narni : so called from the riuer Nar. It was anciently called Nequinum ( wicked towne ) because of the inhabitants , who being pressed with hunger in a Siege resolued to kill one another rather then fall aliue into the hands of their enemyes . They began with their children , sisters , mothers , wifes ; and at last fell vpon one another ; leauing the enemyes nothing to triumph ouer but bare walls and asshes . This towne is an ancient Bishops Seat , and S. Iuuenalis ( whose body lyeth in a neat low Chappel in the Domo ) was the first Bishop of it . A little out of the towne are seen high Arches belonging anciently to an Aqueduct . From hence we went to Terni a Bishops Seat too . It was called anciently Interamna , because of a world of little brooks here . This towne stands in a most pleasant soyle , and is famous for being the birth place of Cornelius Tacitus the great Historian . Arriueing here betimes we went four miles off to see the fomous Cascata , in the Mountains , which farre excells that of Tiuoli . From Terni we went to Spoleto . This is a neat towne , which giueth denomination to the Dutchy of Spoleto . Anciently the country hereabout was called Vmbria , but in aftertimes it was called , the Dutchy of Spoleto , vpon this occasion . The Emperor Iustin hauing called Narses ( the Great General ) out of Italy , he sent Longinus with the power and title of Exarch , in his place . This Longinus setled himself in Rauenna , and gouerned the rest of Italy by his Captains and Officers called Duces , or Dukes . Hence Rome lost her Consuls , Narses and Basilius being the two last Consuls ) and was gouerned by a Duke too , as well as Spoleto . This towne hath been famous anciently for holding out against Hannibal , euen then , when he had newly ouercomne the Romans at the Lake Thrasimene heare Perugia ; in which Siege of Spoleto , happened that famous prodigy ( which I may call in a manner , a Metaphysical transmutation , rather then a metamorphosis ) mentioned by Leandro Alberti , who coats Liuy for it ; of a man in Spoleto changed into a woman in the time of the Siege . Surely it was some notable Coward whom Nature disauowing , degraded him of his breeches . Hence I remember that Plato sayth , abiectori armorum maximè conueniret , vt in mulierem ex Viro translatus , sic puniatur : a man that casts away his armes in a battle , ought to the punished , by being changed from a man into a woman . This towne of Spoleto giues the name to the pleasant Valley of Spoleto , which lyes neare it . It s aboue thirty miles in compasse , surrounded on all sides with Hills , and those Hills , are clad with many fine townes : people willingly dwelling here were the ayre and the earth , our chiefest nurces , are so purely good . From Spoleto we went to Foligni ( Fulignum in Latin ) famous for Confectioners . Not farre from hence stands Assisium famous for S. Francis , Founder of the Franciscan Order ; The Conuent here is stately , and much visited by deuout Pilgrims : And Montefalco famous for the miraculous Heart of B. Clara. From Poligni , climbeing vp the Apennins , we came to Tolentino , famous for the Tombe and Reliks of S. Nicolas Tolentinas ▪ of this towne was Philelphus a learned and noble Knight , who desirous of possessing the Greek Tongue in perfection , was not onely content to go into Greece in person , and there visit the ruines of Athens , and the tombes of the ancient Philosophers ; but brought thence with him a Grecian Lady , whom he had marryed at Constantinople , by whose dayly cōuersation he might learne the pure accent of the Greek tongue . And this he did in such perfection , that he triumphed ouer the Grecians themselues in their owne language . Witness that dispute which he had with Timotheus a Grecian , about the force and accent of a Greek word , where both of them growing hot , and betting at last their beards , which they both wore then long , Philelphus wone the others beard ; and caused it to be shaued off immediatly , and kept it in his family as a Trophey : though the poore Grecian , would haue redeemed it with a considerable Summe of Money . Indeed they deserued both to loose their beards , that could be so hot about such a hairs matter , as the accent of a word . The statue of this notable shauer , victorious Philelphus I saw here in the towne house . From Tolentino we went to Macerata a neat towne of la Marca ; and passing through Recanata , another hansome towne of the same country , we came betime to Loreto . Resoluing but to stay here one day , we put out all our time to vse presently , and spent that afternoone , and the next day , in viewing exactly this sacred place which is so much frequented by the deuout Pilgrims of all Christendome . This place at first was nothing but a plain highway , till the Chamber of our blessed Lady ( in which the Angel announced vnto her the mystery of the Incarnation of our Sauiour in her wombe ) was translated thither miraculously by the hands of Angels , about the yeare 1294 , when Infidels and Turks ouerspreading the Holy Land , would otherwise haue profaned that holy place , which euen from the Apostles time had been turned into a Chappel . For my part , though this be no article of faith , yet when I remember what was sayd in this Chamber by the Angel to our Lady , to wit , non est impossibile apud Deum omne Verbum , nothing is impossible to God , I easily beleeue that hee , who placed this great world it self in a place where there was nothing before , can easily place a house there where there was no house before ; and that hee who makes an Angel wheele the primum mobile , and the vast machins of the heauenly orbs , quite round in four and twenty houres , may easily make Angels translate this little chamber of our Lady from one part of the world to another . Now that it was so translated de facto , both ancient records , solid depositions , constant tradition , and the beleef of all , almost , the Catholick of Princes of Europe ( who haue sent rich presents hither ▪ do testify . Besides , I can say this , that the walls are of such a stone as is not vsed in any house in all the country round about : a great presumption , that this wall is exotick . Againe , the Holy House here hauing no foundation in the ground ( as we see plainely ) it is not credible that it was built here by men , who would haue giuen some little foundation at least to walls of that thicknesse , and to a house of that bigness , especially standing alone in the fields , as it did at first , and exposed to all weather . Add further , that the very old painting which is seen vpon part of the wall on the inside , sheweth the high antiquity of this house . In fine , the whole country would haue giuen the lye to this Tradition at First , or as soone as men had begun , to cry it vp for a house brought thither miraculously . Now , as for the Holy House it self , it stands in the midst of a great Church , which hath been built ouer it in Later times , for the better cōueniency of the peoples deuotion , and the Church seruice : and round about it more immediatly , there hath been built a decoration of white marble , which stands half a foot distant from the Holy House , that men may see it was not intended so much for a prop , as for a decoration to it , as also to keep is from the hands of deuout pilgrims who otherwise would haue made no scruple to haue bine nibling at the stones of the walls here , and so in time , haue much defaced the Holy House , with their Pious thefts . This decoration is set round with two rowes of statues of white marble cut by the rarest workmen of Italy in those times , to wit , Sansouino , Bandinelli , San Gallo , Monte Lupo , and others . The lower row of these statues expresseth the figures of the ancient Prophets : and the other row aboue expresseth the Statues of the Sybills , who prophecyed among the Gentils and Heathens of our Sauiours birth of a Virgin ; and his Passion ; as you may read at large in Lactantius . As for the matter and forme of this house ; I found it to be of a hard red stone , like brick , but farre harder and bigger then our brick : the forme somewhat square about the bigness of a reasonable lodgeing chamber . There 's but one window in it ; and anciently there was but one dore : but now there are three ; one at either side , and one behinde the Altar , for the Chaplains that haue care of the lights and lamps which are allwayes burning here . Towards the vpper end of the house , there is an Altar , where the Holy sacrifice of Masse is offered from four in the morneing vntil one in the afternoone . This Altar is of siluer , & was giuen by Cosmus II. Great Duke of Florence . Before it hangs a Lampe of gold as great as two men could carry . It was the guift and Vowe of the Senate of Venice in a plague time . On either side of the walls , are fastened two great Clandlestiks of pure gold , made like Cornucopias and neatly wrought : they were the guife of the great Dutchesse of Florence Magdalena d' Austria , as her armes vpon them told me . On the Gospel side of the Altar , there 's an old cupbord within the wall , in which are yet kept some little earthen dishes , which were brought hither with the house , and therefore tradition holds them to have been our Sauiours plate , and our Ladyes Vessels . now this cupbord is adorned with a dore of syluer giuen ( if I remember well ) by a Duke of Parma . In the end of the Holy House , there is a window , where it is imagined the Angel entered when he came Embassador to the Virgin Mary concerning the great business of the Incarnation of his Lord and Master . This window is now cheeked and enriched with syluer . Round about aboue hang syluer Lampes ; and on the sides of the walls there remains yet some very old painting wherewith this Chamber was painted when it was first consecrated in to a Chappel in the primitive times . In the very bottom of this Chamber , they shewed me , by a lighted candle , how that it hath no foundation in the ground ; but stands here iust as if it had been let downe from the ayre , and set vpon the plain ground . Close behinde the Altar runns quite crosse the Chappel , a great iron grate , through which you see the Statue of Cedar of our blessed Lady , with her son in her armes . It s sayd to haue been made by S. Luke , and was brought hither together with the Chappel , or Holy House . It stands vp high in the Very farther end of the Chappel . It s about four foot high , and adorned with a particular kind of Vayle hung before it , looking something like a womans garment . They call these Vayles here , Vesti , and there are of diuers colours and stuffs ; but all rich and glittering ; witness that which I saw in the Treasory , which was giuen by the Infanta Isabella of Flanders , which is valued at forty thousand crownes . It s set thick with six rowes of diamands downe before , to the number of three thousand ; and it s all wrought ouer with a kinde of embrodery of little pearle set thick euery where within the flowers with great round pearle , to the number , of twenty thousand pearles in all . Vpon the Heads of our Sauiour and our Lady in that Statue , are set two rich crownes ( close royal crownes ) of diamands , giuen by the Queen of France Anne d' Austriche . Before the brest of this Statue hangs a Royal Tosone , or Fleece , of rich Iewels , giuen by a Prince of Transylvania : a Collar of Rubies , pearls , and diamonds , and a rich crosse hanging at it , all giuen by Cardinal Sfondrati . Round about the Niche , in which this Statue stands , there goes a close row of pretious stones of seueral sorts and Lustures , but all great , both in bulk , in Value , and in number ; being seauenty one in all , and all together composeing a rich Iris of seueral colours . Between this Statue of our Lady and the Iron Grate , hang a row of Lampes , ( about twelue in all ) of pure gold , and all as big as a mans head ; one were of exceeds the rest in curious workemanship ; and it was the guift of Sigismond King of Polonia . All the rest of the Chappel , where those Lampes hang , is loaden with the rich Vowes and Presents of great Princes . These I yet remember : to wit , The image in syluer of the eldest Sonne of Ferdinand the III Emperor with a chain of diamands about it . An Angel of sylver holding out , and as it were , presenting to our Lady a child of gold in swathing bands vpon a syluer cusben . It was the guift of the foresayd Queen of France being brought to bed of the Dolphin , now Lewis the XIIII . The picture of this Prince of Condé in syluer kneeling , a vowe of his mother when he went first to warre . The Busto of S. Barbara in sylver , set with iewels ; the guift of an Archduke of Austria . An other Busto of S. Girione , set with Iewels also ; a guift of a Queen of Bohemia . The Statue of S. Ladislaus in syluer ; the guift of Ladislaus the IV. King of Polonia . A fine kneeling stoole , or pew , of syluer giuen by Cardinal Colonna , with a world of other syluer presents wherewith this place is filled . In fine I saw there the very chimney which was anciently in this chamber ; it s vnder the statue of our Lady and now adorned with syluer . Haueing seen the Holy House , or Chappel , we were led the next morneing into the Treasory , where many other rich presents are kept . This Treasory is a larg roome 40 paces long & about 15 wide , like a long Chappel vaulted and painted ouer head . On the left hand of this roome , stand great cupbords , which opening aboue , haue little nets of strong wyar before them , which let in eyes to behold , but keep of hands from touching the inestimable Treasor contained within them . Some of these presents were giuen by Popes , some by Kings , Queens , Princes , Cardinals , Generals , Ladyes , and noblemen of seueral Nations . In one cupbord they shewd vs a whole seruice for the Altar , that is , Crucifix , Candlestiks , Cruets , Basin & Bure , and the foot of the Chalice , all of Amber . In an other , such a whole seruice , of Agate . An other such a seruice all of lapis Lazuli , giuen by Count Oliuares . An other all of coral giuen by the Archduke Leopold . In an other , such a seruice in Crystal . In an other such a seruice of syluer with flower potts neatly wrought , giuen by Don Thadeo Barberino Prefect of Rome . In an other , a stately Crucifix of Ebeny adorned with many curious pictures in miniature , giuen by Pope Clement the VII●I . In an other , the Spred Eagle of diamands , the guift of mary Queen of Hungary . Two crownes of gold enriched with pearle : the guift of a Queen of Polognia . A crown of gold set with great Rubies of extraordinary size ; the guift of a Dutchesse of Neuers . In an other , the Crowne and Scepter of gold enamelled , giuen by Christina Queen of Swede at her first comeing into Italy . In an other the enamelled Pigeon with a rich iewel in its breast , the guift of the Prince Ludouisio . The heart enriched with Diamands , with a great Emeraud in the middle of it , of an excessiue bigness the guift of Henry III. of France at his returne out of Polognia . In an other , the rich enamelled three cornerd iewel , with the picture of the Blessed Virgin in the middle of it ; the present of two Bohemian Counts and a Gentleman , who being throwne out of a high window in Prague by the Calumnists , and recommending themselues to Gods protection and our Ladyes intercession , fell downe all three gently without the least hurt . Their names were Count Martinitz , Count Slauata , and a Gentleman that was Secretary to Count Slauata , who being throwne out the last , and falling vpon the Count his master , cryed him mercey for his rudeness in falling vpon him ; a great argument that they were little hurt , when they could compliment with one an other . There are now three pillars before that house in Prague , out of which these three men were throwne . In an other cupbord I saw seueral great chaines of gold , giuen by great men ; and some of these by great Generalls . In an other , A great Heart of gold , as big as both a mans hands , enameled with blew , and set on the outside of it with these words in pretty big Diamands , IESVS , MARIA , and within it are the pictures of the blessed Virgin on one side ; and of the Queen of England Henrietta Maria on the other ; the Heart opening it self into two leaues . In an other , a neat little heart also of gold enameled , and set with iewels ; the present of Madame Christina Dutchesse of Sauoye , and sister to the Foresayd Queen of England , with her owne and her sonns picture in it . In an other , the picture of our blessed Lady with her sonne IESVS in her armes , cut in a great pearle , and set in gold . In an other cupbord , I saw a picture of our B. Lady wrought curiously in Indian Feathers of seueral colours , and cut short as plush , which picture changeth colours as often as you change its situation , or your owne posture . In an other , a great custodia of crystal giuen by Christina of Toscany . In an other , a custodia of Lapis Lazuli . In an other a Diamand valued at twelue thousand crownes , the guift of the Prince d'Oria in Genua . An other of almost equal price giuen by a German Prince . In an other a curious booke of gold couered with Diamands with the leaues of gold , but rarely painted in miniature , the guift of a Duke of Bauaria . In an other , the Samaritan ▪ Well of gold , with the pictures of our Sauiour , and the Samaritan woman in gold also ; the present of Cardinal Brancaccio . In diuers other cupbords I saw a world of Iewels of all sortes , which confounded my memory as well as dazeled my eyes . In other great cupbords , they shewed me excellent Church ornaments of most rich stuffs embrodered with syluer and gold , but one there was ( to wit a whole compleat sute for the Altar , Priest , Deacon , and Subdeacon ) so thick couered with an embrodery of pearle , and those no little ones , that I could not preceiue the ground of the stuff for pearle : all these were the present of Catherine Zamoisky wife of the Chancelour of Polonia ; and they are valued at a hundred and thirty thousand crownes . I know not whether this sute of Church ornaments , or that described aboue in the Popes Sacristy , be the richer . On the other side of this roome , are great windowes , betwixt euery one of which , are set vpon long tables , diuers great townes so precisely expressed in syluer , with theit walls , ramparts , Churches , steeples , houses , streets , windmills , &c. that whosoeuer had once seen these townes , would easily know them againe in their pictures here : they were all Vowes and guifts , and all ingenious German worke , as well as German townes . This is all I can remember , though not halfe I saw in this Treasory : and hauing thanked the ciuil Priest that shewed vs this fine place , we went out againe into the great Church ; where I obserued vpon the great Pillars that make the Iles of this Church , the history of the Holy House engrauen in stone , or written in patchment in a fair text-hand , in twelue or thirthen seueral languages , for the vse of the Pilgrims who flock hither from all countryes . Going out of the Church I saw before the Church dore the statue in brasse of sixtus Quintus : and a stately Fountaine . From hence we went to see the Celler of the Holy House which furniseth with wine , not onely the Gouernors house , the Canons and the Church men , the Colledge of the Penetentiaries , the Convent of the Capucins , the Seminarists , the Hospital and all those that belong to the Church any way ; but also furnisheth all Pilgrims , yea euen all Princes , Cardinals , Bishops , Embassadors , and great-men of knowne quality , with wine as long as they stay here vpon devotion . For this reason there belong large revenues to this Church , and this Celler is absolutly the best I saw in Italy . The Vessels are hugely great , and not to be removed from hence . They have away to take out a peéce of their broad sides , and so make them cleane . They are all hooped with iron , and some of them are so contrived , that they can draw three seueral sortes of wine , out of one Vessel , and by the same tap . The experience is pretty , but the wine is better . Now whether these Vessels be too many , or the revenues of the Holy House too great , you may easily coniecture , when so many persons are fed dayly , as I mentioned aboue , and so many thousand pilgrims passe so frequently that way . Turselinus * writs , that between Easter and Whitsontide , there haue flocked thither ; sometimes fiue , sometimes Six hundred thousand communicants ; and in two dayes space in September ( about the Feast of the Nativity of our Lady ) there haue appeared two hundred thousand communicants , most of which were pilgrims . Hauing refreshed our selues in this Celler , we went to the Apothecaries shop ▪ belonging to the Holy House also , and furnishing physick to sick pilgrims for nothing . There we saw those famours pots which make euen physick it self looke sweetly , and draw all curious strangers to Visit them . For round about a great inner shop , stand pots of a great size painted by Raphael Vrbins owne hand , and therefore iudged by Virtuosi to be of great Value , Witnesse those four onely , on which are painted the four Euangelists for the which were offered by a French Embassador in his Kings name , four pots of gold of the same bigness , and were refused . Braue Raphael , whose onely touch of a finger could , Midas like , turne gally pots into gold . But as Phidias his statues of clay were as much adored anciently , as his golden ones : so Raphaels hand is as much admired in the Apothecarys shop of Loreto , as in the Vatican Pallace of Rome . These pots were giuen to the Holy House by a Duke of Vrbin whose subiect Raphael was , and fo● whom he had made them with more then ordinary art . He that desires to know more of Loreto , let him read Turselinus his history of Loreto . For my part , my time being out , I must be gone . Takeing therefore horse againe , we made towards Venice , and saw these places in ou● way : Ancona the Capital towne of the Marca , and one of the best Hauens in the Gulph : corresponding with Slauonia , Greece , Dalmatia , and many other countryes . It s built vpon a Promontory , and backt vp land-way , with a good Castle . The Hauen was built by the Emperor Traian , whose triumphal Arch is yet seen here , and is the chief monument of this towne . Here is a M●lo strikeing 200. paces into the sea . Pius II. whilest he stayd here to animate in person , the great expidition against the Turks which he had zealously giuen beginning to , died . In the vaults of the Great Church are kept many saints bodyes , & pretious Relicks . It s called S. Ciriacos , Church & it is the Cathedral . From Ancona we went to Senegallia all along the Sea side . This towne is so called from the Senones Galliae . It s a very neat and pleasant towne standing in a sweet ayre . It s a Bishops seat . Here began anciently Gallia Cisalpina . From hence we went to Fano ( Fanum fortunae ) because of the Temple of Fortune built here in memory of a battle wonn by the Romans near the Riuer Metaurus hard by were Asdrubal Hannibals brother was slaine . Here 's an ancient Triumphal Arch yet standing . Not farre from this towne also Narsetes ouercame Totila . It s an Episcopal towne . From hence we went to Pesaro standing also most pleasantly by the Seaside . It s called Pesaro , and Pesaurum in Latin , from the weighing here of the gold which the Romans , beseiged in the Capitol , sent hither to be payd to the Gaules , sayth Seruius . It once belonged to the Dukes of Vrbin , but for want of heirs male , fell to the Church by right . From the bridge of stone , which is here , beginns the Marca d'Ancona . The ayre here is thought by Vranoscopists , to be the best in Italy ; as are also the figgs here . From hence we passed by Catholica a poore Village , adorned with nothing but a stately Name , and an Inscription vpon the wall of the Chappel , rendering you the reason why this towne is called Catholica , which was this . When the Emperour Constantius a fierce Arrian vsed violence to the Fathers that had been assembled in the Council of Arimini [ a towne not farre off ) and would not suffer them to depart ( their business being done , which they came for , to wit ; the Catholick Faith of the Council of Nice being here asserted and confirmed ) till they had complyed with the Emperors faction consisting of Arrians ; Many of them too weakly ( being weary of so long a stay from their Seats ) fell to an vnworthy complyance with the Arrian party . Which the zealous orthodoxe Fathers seeing , left Rimini , and came into this little Village , because they would not communicate with the Arrians : Wherevpon this Village got the name of Catholica , because the true Catholike and orthodoxe Fathers retired hither . If you aske me then , whether this Council of Rimini were good or no ; I answer you , that the Council was good and orthodoxe , and confirmed the Fayth of the Nicen Council against the Arrians ; which was the business it was called about . And what happened afterwards when the Council was ended by the oppression of the Emperor , is not to be imputed to the Council ; but to some weake Fathers as an error of conuersation , and a too vnworthy complance . From Catholica we went to Rimini , called Arriminum in Latin , this is a pretty towne , in which the foresayd Council was kept . In the market place I saw the stone ( set now vpon a pedestal ) vpon which Caesar stood when he made a speech to his soldiers to make them resolue to march vp to Rome . Hard by in the same market place , stands a little round Chappel famous for a miracle wrought there by S. Ant●ny of Padua in confirmation of the ●eall Presence . The History is too long , but seen here painted round the Chappel , with a cast of an eye . From hence we went through Cesena an Episcopal towne ; and Forli , Forum Liuij an other BP s . seat ; in the way before we came to Cesena we saw an old inscription in stone set vp by a little riuers side , which I found to be the very Decree of the old Senate of Rome , forbiding in general , any Officer , or soldier whatsoeuer to passe ouer the Rubicon vpon payne of being iudged an enemy to his country and guilty of High Treason . By which words I gathered that this little riuer here now called Pistatello , was Rubicon , mentioned in the Decree of the Senate ; and that this Decree pointed at Iulius Caesar and his army . Yet Caesar being resolued to march vp to Rome with his army , made aspeech to his soldiers ; and finding a compliance in their resolutions , passed ouer Rubicon , cryeing out : Iacta est alea : ●e must now either sink or Swim , and so passed on to Rome , which he soon possessed himself of & then of the world . When once powerfull men draw their swords , they throw away their scabbards : and when once they haue offended beyong pardon , they strike at the very throat of authority ; running vpon that horrid maxime , that scelera sceleribus sunt tuenda . From Forli we passed on the right hand to Faenza , Fauentia in Latin ▪ ( leauing the way on the left hand , which leads to Imola & Bolognia . ) Faenza is a neat towne as all the others we had passed by before : but hauing no considerable thing in it but white earthen pots , called Vessel of Faenza , we stayd not long in it , but made towards Ferrara . In the way I found little worth observation , except onely that as we traueled one night somewhat late , for cooleness , I saw millions of little flyes in the ayre , carrying a bright light about them like glowwormes , They continued all the way to our Inne for two houres after sunset , especially vpon the corne fields and high grasse . It was huge pretty me thought , to see heauen vpon earth all most , and flyeing starrs conduct vs to our lodgeing . A Po●t would haue sworne by all the cordes of Apollos harpe , that Iupiter then was makeing Vulcan paue the Vault of heauen with a Mosaick worke of Diamands , and that these were onely the sparks that fell from him : or that he was repareing the old caussey of the Via Lactea with fresh starrs , and that these were the old ones which he had throwne away . I catched some of these fiery flyes , to see where it was that they carryed their little Lanternes and candles , and I found it was in their tayles . The country people call them Lucciole . And I beleeue , these are those flyes which Pliny calls Cicindelas , and Aristotle calls 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Passing thus along we came late to a little Village , and the next morning betimes to Ferrara . This towne of Ferrara was once the Seat of a Soueraine Prince of the house of Esté , but for want of heirs male after the death of Alf●nso the II. it fell to the Church , and Clement the VIIII tooke possession of it in person by an Entry and Ceremony worthy of the pen of Cardinal Bentiuoglio who was there . The towne stands in a plaine , carrying aboue four miles compasse ; it hath a good Citadell , strong walls , ramparts , bulworks : and a good garrison of soldiers . Here are fair streets , and very hansome Pallaces ; but people are somewhat thin : The things which I saw here where these ▪ 1. The D●mo , ancient rather then beautifull . 2. Oueragainst it , two Statues in brass of the Princes of the house of Esté ; the one Duke ; the other Marquis : the one Sitting , the other on Horseback . 3. Behinde these Statues is the House of Justice , or Towne house . 4. The strong pallace of the Dukes anciently , is in the middle of the towne , with a great mote about it , the court within is painted with the pictures of all the Dukes of Ferrara ▪ ●ere the Popes Legate lyeth . 5. The Diamand Pallace , as they call it , is of white marble without , whose stones are all cut diamant wise into sharp points . Hauing seen it without , I longd to see it within hopeing that a diamant pallace without , would be all carbuncle and Pearle within . But I was deceived ; for entring in , I found nothing worth the paynes of going vp the vgly stairs : and the poore woman that kept the house told me as much , as well as the cold kitchen . I wonder the master of this house doth not keep it alwayes lockt vp , that strangers might value it by its outside onely , which is admirable indeed . 6. The Monastery of the Benedictins is stately , in whose church I found the Tombe of Ariosto author of the long Poëme called Orlando Furioso . He was esteemed in his life time a great Poët , and as such was crowned Laureat Poët by the Emperor Charles the V. but he was oftentimes seen , euen in the streets , to be too much transported with Poëtick fury , and to become Ariosto furioso , while he was penning his Orlando He had a rich Vaine , but a poore purse ; and while his head was crowned with Laurel , his breeches were often out behinde , as well as those of Torquato Tasso , of whom Balzac sayth , that though he were a good Poët , yet he had des fort mauuaises chauses . 7. The Carthusians church is neat & full of good Pictures . 8. The Church and Conuent of the Carmelits is also neat , in whose Library I saw a Manuscript of Iohn Bacon , and an other of learned Thomas Waldensis , both Englishmen , and both Learnedmen . Here 's an Academy of Wits called Gli Elevati . of this towne was Hieronymus Sau●narola author of the Triumphus Crucis ; and Baptista Guarini author of the Pastor Fido. He that desires to know the history of Ferrara , let him read GioGiouanni Baptista Pigna , who hath written of it ex profess● . From Ferrara we went to Padua in two dayes , the season being good and dry ; otherwise in winter , it s too deep a way to go by Land ▪ therefore most men embarke at Ferrara , and go by boate to Venice . The first day , Passing ouer the Po in boat at Francalino , We reached Ruigo the first towne of the Venetian State. This towne is built neare where Adria ( from whence the Adriatick Sea is called ) once stood , and almost vpon its ruines . It s gouerned by a Podesta and a Capitano Grande , as the other townes of S. Mark are . Of this towne was Coelius Rodiginus a man of Various learning , as his books shew ; and Bonifacius Bonifacij an other learned humanist . From Ruigo we arriued at Padua betimes , but the desire of seing Venice made vs hasten away the next day ; deferring to see Padua till our returne from Venice . Embarking then betimes in the morning at Padua in a Pi●tta , a neat little barge , taken to our selues , and much more honorable then to go in the great tiltboate , where all sortes of loosy ruffians and idle people throng you vp ; we saw a world of stately Pallaces and gardens standing vpon the bankes of the riuer Brenta , and sewing vs that we were approching to a great towne indeed . Some fiue miles short of Venice , we left the riuer and the horses that drew vs , and ●owed through the Shallow Sea which enuironeth Venice on all sides for aboue fiue miles space . This low Sea is called here La Laguna ; and the water is so shallow , that no great ships can come to Venice : little vessels come by certain channels which are well fortifyed with castles , forts , & chaynes : so that no man can come to Venice but with Leaue , or knocks . We arriued there betimes ; and all the way we admired to see such a stately Citie lyeing as it were at anchor , in the midst of the Sea ; and standing fixed where euery thing els floats . Venice at first ▪ was nothing but a company of little dry spots of ground , which held vp their heads in a Shallow Sea furnished by Saeuen riuers , Piaua , Sila , Liuenza , Po , Adige , Brenta , and Tagliamento , Which runn into it . To these little dry spots of ground fisher men repayred anciently for their fishing , and built little cottages vpon them . But afterwards Italy being one runn by Goths , Huns , and Vicegoths , diuers rich men from seueral parts of Italy , as well as from Padua , fled hither with the best of their goods , to saue them and them selues in these poore cottages vnknowne to those Barbarous nations : and findeing by experience this to be a safer place then any else , they began to prouide against those frequent disasters of barbarous incursions , by building good houses here . This many men did : & made at last a fine towne here , and greater then her mother Padua . This happened twelue hundred years agoe , which makes Venice glory , that she is the ancientest Republick in Europe . To which purpose I cannot omit to tell here a pretty story which was told me in Paris of à Venetian Embassador , who resideing in the Court of France , and finding himself in a visite where there were many Ladyes , was seriously asked by a graue old Lady ( who heard him speak much of the Seignorie of Venice ) . Whether the Seignorie of Venice were fair or no ? yes Madame , sayd hee ; one of the fairest in Europe . Is she great ? sayd the Lady again : yes , Madame , sayd the Embassador , she is great enough . Is she riche ? sayd the Lady 〈◊〉 worth millions , replyed the Embassador . Me thinks then , sayd the Lady , she would be a good match for Monsieur the Kings Brother : yes , Madame , replyed hee againe , but that she is a little too old . Why how old is she I pray you ? sayd the Lady . Madame , answered the Embassador , she is about twelue hundred years old . At which the company smileing , the good Lady perceiued her errour with blushing , and Monsieur was vnmarryed for that present . Indeed Cosmography , and Topography are hard words ; and as the old saying is , aliud sceptrum , aliud plectrum , a looking glasse is not the same thing with a Map. As for Venice now , it s one of the fairest Cities in Europe , and called by the Proverbial Epithete , Venetia la Ricca , Venice the Rich. It s well nigh eight miles in compasse , and in forme something like a Lute . It hath no walls about it to defend it : but a mote of water that is fiue miles broad which surrounds it . It hath no suburbs , but a world of little Ilands close by it . The Streets of Venice are all full of water ; and for this reason they vse no c●aches here , but visit in boats . These boats they call here Gondolas , and there are aboue twenty thousand of them . For besides that euery noble Venetian or rich man hath two or there of his owne , there are alwayes a world of them standing together at seueral publick wharfs ; so that you need but cry out , Gondola , and you haue them lanch out presently to you ▪ these Gondolas are pretty neat black boats like ou● oares , holding six persons conueniently vpon the Seats , which are couered ouer head with a thick black cloath , with windows at either side , which in winter defends you from the winde , and in sommer from the Sun. The multitude of these Gondolas help to employ a great many poore men , and to make a world of mariners for publick seruice in time of need . Ordinary people here may go vp and downe the towne by little back allyes , which they call here Calle ; these by winding vp and downe , and deliuering them ouer seueral bridges , hugely puzzle strangers at first . Of these bridges there are aboue 1500 in Venice , all of stone and of one arch reaching from one side of a street to the other , while the Gondolas run vnder the Arch. The greatest of these bridges is called the Rialto , built ouer the Canal Grande , all of white marble . This is one of the finest bridges in Europe , because of the one arch onely , & of the vast widenesse and height of that arch ; the Chanel here being as wide as any man can throw a stone . This bridge bears vpon its back two rowes of shops , and little houses couered with lead ; and least this great weight should make the foundation sink , they built it vpon piloties , that is , great trees ramed into the ground , to the number of six thousand in all . In fine , this bridge cost two hundred and fifty thousand crownes . It were a fine sight , to see in a hard frost , the streets of Venice all frozen , and people walkeing vp and downe vpon diamant streets , or a crystal pauement . In the meane time it s no vnpleasing sight to see the streets full of water , and such stately pallaces on either side , especially the Canal Grande , which runns quite through the midle of the Citie , and is hedged in on either side with stately houses , among which are counted two hundred pallaces fit to lodge any King. The whole Citie hath in it 32 Monasteryes of Religious men , 28 of Religious women , 70 Parish Churches ; and about a hundred and fourscore thousand inhabitants . Hauing sayd thus much of the situation of Venice , I will now speak of the Gouerment , Strength , Riches , Religion , and Interest of this Republick , and then fall to the particulars I saw in it . For the Gouerment here , it s purely Aristocratical , by the Doge , and the Nobles . The great Counsel consists of two thousand Gentlemen . This is the basis of the state Gouerment : because that out of these are chosen all the other Magistrats , Podestas , Generals , Capitani G●andi , Prouidetori Generali , Embassadori , &c. This great Counsel assembles frequently in one great Roome of the Doges pallace , where their are seats for them all , and where businesses are voted by Baloting ; that is by puting into a close double boxe of two colours , a little ball , about the bigness of a button , which is made so soft , that no man can heare into whether part of the double boxe the ball falls . Euery Gentleman in this great Counsel hath two of these balls giuen him , one white , and the other red : the one signifyeing , the affirmatiue vote , the other the negatiue : so that they giue their votes secretly , and without being knowne afterwards for what party they stood ; or without giuing example to others to follow them in their votes , as leading men would do ; and so draw all into faction and cabals ; To run through all the Maegistrats and Officiers of this Republick , the Pregiadi , the saui Grandi , the saui di Terra ferma , the saui de gli Ordini , the consiglio de dieci , &c. would be aworke too long for a traueler , and too tedious for my reader . I will onely speake of the supreame Magistrate here , the Doge , or Prince , as they call him , who represents the head of this Republick . He is now chosen by the whole Senate , and is for life : heretofore he was hereditary till the yeare 1032. the manner of baloting in choosing the Dogé is such a puzzle , that I had rather you should read it in Sabellicus , then I giue my self the trouble of describing it . For the most part , they choose a man well strucken in yeares , and one who hath made his circle of Embassyes : that is , hath been fifteen years Embassador in all the chief courts of Europe , three years a peece in euery one : and so acquired vnto himself a perfect knowledge of all states and state affairs . Being chosen once , he cannot stirre out of the Laguna without leaue . Nor at home can he do all things of his owne head , but with the aduice of his Counselours , who are six , chosen out of the most honorable gentlemen of the Citie . These six sit with him in Counsel , & execute with him all businesses , as to giue audience , read letters , grant priuiledges , and the like : which cannot be executed by the Dogè , if there be not four Counselours with him ; and yet they can execute and act without the Dogè : and it s they that haue authority to propose in the Great Counsel , things of concerne . In giuing suffrages , his suffrage is no more then an ordinary Senators , in the Sanate ; but he hath two voyces in the Great Counsel . The Dogè and these Counselours are called Il C●llegio , but then in main publick affairs there enters into this Counsel , six Saui Grandi , fiue Saui di Terra Ferma , fiue Saui de gli Ordini , and tre Capi de Quaranta Criminali . This full Colledge distributs businesses to the other Magistrats to be handed , hauing been headed here . The Habit of the Dogè is ancient , and hath something of the Pontifical habit in it . His Pompe , Train , and Lodgeing , are all Princely ; and in publick functions he hath , carryed before him the eight syluer trumpets , the great Vmbrella of cloth of tyssue , the cusshen , the Chair , the guilt sword , and a w●ite wax candle carryed by a child . All letters of State are written in his name , and money is coyned in his name , but the impronto , or stamp of it , is alwayes the figure of S. Marke , or S. Marks Lyon. For the most part the Dogè is chosen out of those , whom they call here , Procuratori di S. Marco . These Procuratori are of high ranck and esteeme in this Republick . Heretofore there was but one Procuratore di San Marco , whose office was , to haue a care of all things belonging to S. Marks Church and the Treasor . But now there are twentyfiue , most of which haue made their circle of Embassyes in forrain Courts , and are fit wood to make Dogès of : though some of them of late haue been assumed to that dignity for money ; the State now makeing money of all men , as well as of all things . As for the Strength and Power of Venice , it s very Great ; their possessions in Italy , being full as great as the Popes ; and out of Italy , farre greater . In Italy they hold fourteen Prouinces vnder them . They are Lords of the Gulph , or Adriatick Sea. They possesse the coast of Dalmatia beyond the Gulph . They hold the Iles of Corfu , Cephalonia and Zante . Candia , or the I le of Creta , belongs to them by due . The kingdome of Cyprus also is pretended to by them ; and by it , and Candy , whose two crownes they shew vs in the Treasor , Venice is stiled Serenissima . The kingdome of Cyprus came to the Venetians by Katherine Cornaro ▪ who was made heire of it by her son the King thereof , who dyed yong and with out yssue about the yeare 1438. The stoty is this . Katherine was daughter of Marco Cornaro , and neece of Andrew Cornaro two noblemen of Venice . Andrew was sent Auditore Generale into the Kingdome of Cyprus , in the time of Iames King of that Iland , and helpt him to many thousand crownes , where by he setled his tottering crowne . One day as the King was talkeing familiarly with him , he let fall ( whether by chance , or designe ) a little picture in miniature , of a Very hansome Lady . The King curious to see it , called for it ciuilly , and viewing it well , fell hugely in loue with the Original of it , which Andrew assured him to be farre hansomer then the copie ▪ and withall added , that if his Maiesty liked her , she was his Neece , and that therefore he offered her freely to him , for his wife , with all the money he had already lent him , and a hundred thousand crownes more . The King bit willingly at these two baits , beauty and Money , and was not quiet till he had marryed her . Of her he had but one sonn , whom ( dyeing ) he left under his mothers protection : but he dyeing also not long after , left his mother heire of the kingdome ; and she at her death , left this crowne and kingdome to the Venetians by Will and Guift . This whole history I saw painted in the Pallace of Cornaro by the hand of Paulo Veron●se . As fo● the strong holds which the Venetians possesse in Italy , they are these : Crema , Bergamo , Brescia , Pesch●●ra , Chiosa , and Palma Nuoua in Fruth . This last is one of the best places in Europe Is hath nine royal bastions ; eighteen caualiers , which command all the neighboring campagnia ; it hath di●ches of water about it thirty paces broad , and twelue deep ; Its ramparts behinde the wall are high and couering , and they are alwayes fringed with a hundred peéces of Cannon , and ready to receiue six hundred more , which are alwayes in its magazin ready upon all occasions . And for men and armour , as the great Arsenal in Venice hath alwayes armes in readyness for a hundred thousand men ; so this State being peopled with three millions of men , would easily finde three or four hundred thousand men of seruice , and a hundred Gallyes : yet their ordinary militia is but of fourscore thousand foot , and some 6000 Horse ; and about thirty Gallyes . As for their Riches ; though their ordinary reuenues ( before these late warrs with the Turk ) exceeded not four millions , yet now they spurre themselues , and the country● , vp to excessiue summs . Few dye but they bequeath something to such a Christian seruice as this warre is . Besides this , the taxes are much augmented , and seizures & forfetures more narrowly looked into , to help publick expences . In fine , besides the great trading which Venice driues , ( Aleppo alone bringing in some yeares , four millions of gold ) the Venetiant haue found out a Very compendious way to rayse , in one quarter of an houre , and by one deash of a pen , fifty hundred thousand crownes , to help themselues withall at a dead lift , and incommodate no man. This they did An 1646 , when fifty rich familyes in Venice gaue to the State a hundred thousand crownes a peéce to be made noble Venetians . The like course they took to rayse money , about a hundred yeares ago , when they were set vpon by most of the Princes of Europe at once . As for their Religion , its Roman Catholick , and they haue neuer changed it since the begining of their Republick . Hence M r. Raymond in his Mercurio Italico page 188. sayth truly , that Venite hath this property aboue all other States ; that she is a Virgin , and more , from her first infancy , Christian : hauing neuer yet fell , from her Principles either in Gouerment , or Religion . It began to be built the Very same yeare , that S. Augustin dyed , ( as Baronius obserues . ) As for the Interest of this Republick , they are now well with the Emperor ; not out with Spayne , no● too secure of his Friendship ; kinde with the French , as long as they keep out of Italy ; well affected to England ; and iust friends with the Pope . Now for the particulars which I saw in Venice , they were these . 1. The men Themselues here , who looked like men indeed : and as a Philosopher anciently sayd , that when he came from Corinth to Sparta , he seemed to come from horses to men : so me thought , when I came from France to Venice I came from boyes to men . For here I saw the hansomest , the most sightly , the most proper and graue men that ever I saw any where else . They weare alwayes in the towne ( I speake of the noblemen ) a long black gowne a black cap knit , with an edgeing of black wooll about it , like a fringe ; an ancient and manly weare , which makes them looke like Senators . Their hair is generaly the best ▪ I euersaw any where ; these little caps not presing it downe as our hats do ; & Perywigs are here forbid . Vnder their long gownes ( which fly open before ) they haue hansome black sutes of rich stuffs with stockins and garters , and spanith leather shoos neatly made . In a word , I neuer saw so many proper men together , nor so wise , as I saw dayly there walking vpon the Piazza of S. Mark. I may boldly say , that I saw there fiue hundred gentlemen walking together euery day , euery one of which was able to play the Embassador in any Princes Court of Europe . But the misery is , that we strangers cannot walk there with them , and talk with them , but must keep out of their way , and stand a loof off . The reason is this : This state ( as all Republicks are ) being hugely gealous of her liberty and preseruation , forbids her Noble men and Senators to converse with Forrain Embassadors , or any man that either is an actual seruant or follower of an Embassador , or hath any the least relation to any Princes Agent , with out expresse leaue ; and this vpon payne of being suspected as a Traitor , and condignly punished . This makes them shy to all strangers , not Knowing what relation they may have to some forain states man of Agent . For the same reason they will not let their wifes visit the wife 's of forrain Embassadors resideing in Venice , for feare of being suspected to commit treason by proxie . They haue in the wall of the Pallace , in diuers places , certain wide mouths of marble stone , ouer which I found written these words : Denuncie secrete , Priuate informations , into which they cast secretly papers of accusations , by which they accuse secretly any officer , or nobleman , whom they durst not accuse publickly . This maKes men stand hugely vpon their garde , and be wary with whom they conuerse , and what they say . 2. As for the women here , they would gladly get the same reputation That their husbands have , of being tall and hansome ; but they ouer do it with their horrible cioppini , or high Shoos , which I haue often seen to be a full half yard high . I confesse , I wondered at first , to see women go vpon stilts , and appeare taller by the head then any man ; and not to be able to go any whither without resting their hands vpon the shoulders of two grave matrons that vssher them : but at last , I perceiued that it was good policy , and a pretty ingenious way either to clog women at home by such heauy shoos ( as the Egyptians Kept their Wifes at home by allowing them no shoos at all ) ; or at least to make them not able to go either farre , or alone , or inuisibly . As for the yong ladyes of this towne that are not marryed , they are neuer seen abroad , but masked like Moscarades in a strang disguise , at the Fair time , and other publick solemnityes or Shows , Being at other times brought vp in Monasteries of Nunns , till they be marryed . 3. Then I went to the Church of S. Mark the Euangelist , whose body lyeth here , hauing been translated hither from Alexandria , 820 & odd yeares ago ; hauing ever since been one of the chief Patrons of this state , as his Lyon hath euer-since been the Armes of the Republick , and its seale in all publicK writeings . This church is built a la Thedesca , as they call it , and as the best Churches built about those times , were . It s neither great nor high ; but so rich for the materials , that nothing but Mosaick worke and marble appeare in it . The roof and the walls a good way downe , are curioutly painted with Mosaick histories and pictures ; and the rest of the Wall is rare marble . Among those Mosaïck pictures , there are to be seen in the vault of the Arch , ouer the dore of the Treasory , two old Pictures , the one of S. Dominick , the other of S. Francis ; both made before they instituted their several Orders , and yet both in the religious Habits which those of their Orders weare ; and all this out of the predictions of Ioachim ( Abbat of Curacium , and not of S. Fleur , as some wrongly call him ) who lived before these Orders were instituted . The picture also of the Pope , neare to the Pictures of the foresayd Saints , is sayd to be a Prophetical picture of the sayd Abbats describing ; representing the last Pope that shall gouerne the flock of Christ , when all the world shall be of one Religion . The pauement of this Church is sutable to the rest , being in some places composed of vast marble stones naturaly representing the waues of the Sea ; in other places its curiously inlayd with stones of seueral colours expressing Flowers , starrs , birds , beasts and the like : among which stones I perceiued here and there some Turky stones of great value among vs , but here not scorning to be trod vpon . Thirty six marble pillars of a round forme , and two foot thick in diameter , hold vp the roof of this Church . The High Altar is a rare peéce , especially when you see the back of it open as I did vpon the Ascension Eue. This back of the Altar is richly adorned with diuers rowes of little enamelled pictures , a la Greca , set in gold , and enriched with braue pearle and pretious stones intermingled euery where between the pictures . This most rich ornament , or back of the Altar , was giuen by a Dogè of Venice , and brought from Constantinople● Behind the High Altar stands the Altar of the B. Sacrament , where there are two transparent round pillars four yards high . In the Sacristy which is hard by , I saw neat Mosaick work in the roof ; and an admirable picture of S. Hierome of the same worke also . Round about the inside of the Church , ouer the pillars , hang the Scutchions of Seueral Doges , in a large size . For the Dogès at their creation , cause three things to be made . First their picture which is set vp in the Sala of the Great Counsel : Secondly their Armes or Scutchion , which are sometimes of syluer & of a huge si●e ; & are set vp after the Doges death in the Church for euer . Thirdly they must make their Picture in the Collegio , or Pregiadi . 4. From the Church we were let in to see the Treasory of S. Mark , which ioynes to the Church . It was showne vs by special leaue from aboue , and by two Noble Venetians who are alwayes present when it is showne . We were first showne the Spiritual Treasor , and then-the Temporal ; that is , first the Relicks , and then the Iewels . The Reliks were these principaly . A great authenticall peéce of the Holy Crosse , aboue a span long . It is the greatest peéce I haue seen any where , except that in the Holy Chappel in Paris : and though some enemies of the Very Crosse of Christ , as well as of other Relicks , do ieeringly say , that there are so many peéces of the Holy Crosse showne in the world , that if they were all put together , they would make a carte Load of wood : yet I dare maintain more probably , that all the peéces any one man can say are showne in Europe ( and I haue seen a good part of it ) would not make so much of the Crosse , as one of those parts on which our Sauiours hands were nayled : seing the greatest part that we finde of it , is no thicker then an ordinary mans finger , & little longer then a span ; and that very part of it which I saw in the Popes owne Sacristy in the Vatican , is no longer then a mans little finger : and if the King of France ( S. Lewis ) in his two expeditions into the Holy Land , could get onely so little a peéce of it as that which is showne in Paris in the Saint Chappelle , and if the Pope himself could get no greater a peéce of it , then that mentioned aboue , I do not wonder if in other places , they shew such little shreds of it , as all together would not make two foot of timber , much less a Cart load . We saw also here a finger of S. Mark. His Ring with a stone in it , which our Lapidaries cannot tell how to name . Some of our Sauiours blood gathered vp in his Passion , with the earth it was spilt vpon . A thorne of the Holy crowne of thornes . A nayle which nayled the two peéces of the Crosse together . A finger of S. Mary Magdalen . A peéce of S. Iohn Baptists Cranium . A tooth of S. Mark. A peéce of S. Iohn Baptists habit . Some of our B. Ladyes hair . An anciet picture of S. Iohn Baptist , enamelled in gold . A peéce of our Sauiours white robe when he was scorned . A Very ancient picture of our B. Lady carryed about anciently by Constantin the Great , who had it alwayes with him . One of the Stones of the Torrent , wherewith S. Steuen was stoned . And in fine , the sword of S. Peter . Then leading vs to the Temporal Treasure in an other roome , they shewd vs ( by candle light , as they did also the Spiritual Treasure ) these things . First , the twelue crownes of gold , and the twelue brest and backpeéces ( like womens close Bodyes ) of beaten gold also , set thick , as well as the Crownes , with exquisit pearle , both round , and big : Twelue yong Virgins vsed to weare them anciently vpon a Feast day . Then three great Carbuncles , one whereof weigheth six ounces , and is bigger then an ordinary henns egg : They Value it at two hundred thousand crownes . Then the two Crownes of gold set thick with pretious stones ; one being the Crowne of the kingdome of Cyprus ; the other of the kingdom of Candie . After this they shewed vs the Doges Crowne , called here il Corno , because it s made somewhat sharp and turning in at the top , like a horne . It s set round with a close row of excellent pearle , each one as big as a hasel nutt , with a Vast Ruby in the front , of it , worth a hundred thousand crownes , say they , and one of the fairest diamants in Europe in the top of it . Then they shewd vs many other rich things , as the Flower de Luce of gold with a rich Diamant in it , giuen by Henry the Third of France at his passing by Venice when he came out of Poland . The two Vnicorns hornes , farre lesse then that at S. Denys in France ; but no lesse true . The two Crucifixes set with pearle and rich iewels , and in great number . The Great Candlesticks and Thurible of beaten gold , and curiously wrought ; each one being almost as heauy as a man can carry in both hands . The Great Chalice of gold , as great as a man can lift with both hands . A Saphir weighing ten ounces . A cup , or dish , as broad and deep as an ordinary caslotte ( or cap which we weare vnder our hatts ) and all of one Turky stone entire , and of huge value ; It was sent vnto this Republick by a King of Persia . A Vessel like a tankard , of a rich Cameo ; its handle being curiously engrauen with a diamant . A little Vase of the rootes of Emmeraud . An other of Sardonick . A great cup of Agate . An other of Roman Agate farre finer then the former , and more transparent . A rich Pax of Mother of Pearle . A Spanish Embassador , once viewing this Treasure , tooke a candle and looked curiously vnder the long tables vpon which these rich things are exposed ; and being asked what he looked for , answered : that he looked whether this Treasure had rootes or no , as his masters Treasure had , and therefore groweth yearly : meaning the India Fleet of Spayne which bringeth home yearly to the King of Spaynes coffers and Treasure , twelue millions . 5. Hauing seen this Treasure & thanked the two noble Venetians that stood by ; and requited the vnder officers that shewed it ; we went into the Dogès Pallace , which ioynes to S. Marks Church ; and mounting vp the open stairs into the open Gallery , we saw the two great marble Statues of Mars and Neptune , which stand at the head of these stairs , and signify the strength of the Venetians both by Sea and Land. They are excellent peéces , otherwise great Sansouinus would neuer haue owned them by writeing vnder them : Opus Sansouini . This open Gallery led vs into a world of Chambers of Iustice , and Clercks offices , all throngd with business and busy men . Going vp from hence into a higher story , we saw the Dogès Chamber of audience , his Antichambers , his dineing roome , and the like . From thence we were led into Seueral great Chambers of Counsel , all rarely well painted . After that we saw the Great Chamber , or Sala of the Senate house , where the Nobles meet vpon affairs as great as the Chamber . For here they meet about the chuseing of publick Officers , either for the gouerning of the Citie , or Army : and sometimes they haue been forced to stay there eight dayes ( sayth Sabellicus ) not being able to agree about the Elections ; they not being permitted to depart thence till they agree . This Senate house , or Great Chamber , is aboue threescore paces long , and thirty wide . It s full of Seats for the Noble Venetians , to the number of two thousand men , who haue right to enter in here . It s painted on all sides by the rarest painters that were in Italy when this roome was made . Ouer the Dogès Throne , is a rare peéce of painting couering the whole end of the roome aboue , and representing heauen in a glorious manner . It s of the hand of Tintoret . The great pictures vpon that side of the roome which lookes towards the court of the Pallace , containe the history of Pope A●exander the III , and the Emperor Federick Barbarossa . I saw also in this great roome , and in the next ioyning to it , the true pictures of all the Dogès of Venice . In the other Chambers of this Pallace , in the Churches , and other Pallaces of this towne , I saw so many , and so rare peéces of painting , of Titian , Tintoret , Bellino , Gentile , Castel Franco , Bassano , Paolo Veronese , Perdonone and others , that with Madame Romes leaue , I dare bodly say , that no place of Italy hath so many rare pictures in it , as Venice hath : and perchance , you will be of my opinion , if you read the curious booke of Rodolfi , who hath written the liues of the Painters of Venice , and the Venetean State ; and sets downe where their prime peéces are to be seen . 6. Hauing seen these Chambers of Iudicature , we were led about to the Sala of the Consiglio de Dieci , ( otherwise called , the little Arsenal ) in the Pallace still . It s a curious sight , and therefore not to be omitted by my Traveler . There are armes in it for a thousand men , ready vpon all occasions of sedition or reason . The muskets are alwayes charged and primed ; and euery six months they discharge rhem , to charge them a fresh . Pikes , and swords , are also so ordered here , that by plucking a string , they fall into the hands of those that should vse them : so that in lesse then half an houre , a thousand men may sally our armed . In the end of the great roome where the muskets hang , stands a great iron ball pierced through like a basket hilt , and four times as big as a soldiers helmet ; within which there is a spring , which being vncockt by the pulling of a corde , strikes fire into gunpowder which lyeth round about within this Ball in a train , and there are so many several ends of match as there are muskets here ; half of the match hanging out of the holes of the Ball , the other half being within , and reaching into the train of powder : so that the first man that should come in , and pluck the foresayd corde would presently strike fire , and light the matches all at once ; and then euery man catching a musket , and one of these matches lighted , they are armed in a moment . This armory is to secure the Dogè and the Senators ( while they are assembled in counsel ) from such like treasons as haue been plotted against them whilst they were sitting in counsel . And for this purpose , there 's a dore which openeth out of the Senate house into this Armory ; and the Keys of it are alwayes layd neare the Dogè when he sitts here in consultation : Nor is this so much an Italian Iealosy , as a prudent caution caused by past dangers . For they shew vs in the great Arsenal , the armour ( with one arme onely , to be worne vnder a Venetian gowne , while the other arme was showed bare , to take off all suspicion ) of Bajamante Theopoli and his complices , to the number of eight hundred men , who intended to kill the whole Senate while it was assembled ; and make Baiamante master of Venice . But the plot was dasht in the execution ; because Bajamantes brains were dasht out by a poore woman , who seing him march vnder her window in the head of his rebellious crew , threw downe from her window a great earthen flower pot vpon his head , and killed him dead . His party seeing this , retired , and were soone subded : and his house was turned into a Shambles for Butchers ; a fit disgrace for him who would haue been the Butcher of his Prince and countrymen . here also in this Arsenal we saw the sword and armes of braue Scanderbeg Prince of Albania , who wonne seauen battles ouer seauen the most illustrious Bassas the Great Turk had , and dyed after all , peaceably in his Estates , in spite of Amurath . It s sayd , that the great Turk hearing how Scanderbeg with his Sword , had clouen men in two , sent to him ; and desired him , to send him his sword , his cutting sword : which hee did ; the Turck tryed it vpon his slaues , and findeing that he could not cleaue men as Scanderbeg had done , sent him word , that he had not sent him his true sword : to whom scanderbeg replyed , that he had sent him indeed his sword , but not his arme . As for this sword , which they call here Scanderbegs sword , it s a broad thin blade , of a reasonable length , but light , and of as good mettal almost , as its master . We saw here many other curiosityes : as the standard of the Dogè Zani , who restored Pope Alexander the III vnto his Seat againe ; with his sword , Buckler , & Helmet . The standard of the great Turk . The standard of horses hayre belonging also to the great Turk , and which he hung out alwayes before battle , as a signal of combat : it was taken by a Franchman called Ciotar . The Statues of Ludouico Sforza Duke of Milan , and of his wife Visconti . The statue or head of Carara , whom they call the Tyrant , but how truly I know not . The Statue or head in brasse of brave Venerio , General of the Venetians in the battle of Lepanto . The head in brasse also of braue Bragadine , flead alive by the Turks for his countryes service . The picture of santa Iustina in a great case set with rich stones . This case was made for a great Lookeing glasse which the Venetians sent vnto the Sultanesse of the great Turk ; but the ship that carryed it , meeting in the way a Fregat which brought the news of a great Victory gotten ouer the Turks by the Venetians vpon Sancta Iustinas day , it returnd back againe with the present , and the Senate caused the glasse to be taken out , and Santa Iustinas picture to be set in place of it . Then we saw a rare Carpet , or rather a curious peece of stuff with figures in it , sent to the Republick of Venice by a King of Persia . The habits of two noble Chinesi who were baptized at Venice . The amour , of braue Gatta Mela , with the picture of a catt in his headpeece . The armour of some of the ancient Dogès of Venice , who to the number of forty or fifty , went to warre in person , and did such things there , as to make their very armour to be honorable . The habit , buckler , and sword of a King ef Persia ; the armes are set with rich stones . The armour of Henry the IIII. of France with his pocket pistol . The armour of the Duke of Rohan . The compleat armour of a little boy about ten years old , who was found dead in a battle feighting for the Venetians and his country ; and not knowne who he was . Poore braue child ! who being worthy neuer to haue dyed , doest not so much as liue in history ▪ Indeed I did not think till then , that Mars had his abortiues too , dyeing before their time , and before they were named . Then they shewd me Attilas Helmet , with the head peece of his horse . A Cannon shooting seauen shoots at once , as yf death with his single dart went too slowly to worke . An other Cannon shooting threescore thotts in ten barrels . A halbard with a barrel within it , shooting fourteen shotts . An other halbard shooting seauen shotts . A Cannon of iron carryeing two miles , and curiously wrought into flowers with the points of chizels . The collar of iron of the Paduan Tyrant ( as they call him here ) Carara . The little iron Crosbow of the same Tyrant , with which he is sayd to haue shot needles a spann long , and killed many men priuatly , who knew not how , or by whom they were hurt . Then the diuels Organs , or a trunck of leather with ten pistol barrels in it of a foot and a half long , and so disposed in oder like organ pipes , that vpon the opening of the lock of this trunck , all these barrels being charged with seuerall bullets , should let fly at once , and so seattering wide , kill all those that should be in the roome . This trunck was contriued by a reuengefull man , who hauing a minde to be revenged both of his enemy , and of his enemyes friends at once , sent him this trunck by an vnknowne bearer ( as a present from a friend ) while he treated his friends at a dinner . The holes through the sides of it , made by the bullets , shew the diuelish effect of this Trunck ; and how well it deserues the name of the Diuels organ . The boxe of botargos here is iust such another inuention . A pistol in a pocket booke here , is as bad as the others , which being charged and let off , would presently read your doome . Swords and daggers , with pistol and little gun barrels runing along their blades , which being held drawne with the broad side to a man , appeare to be onely plain swords and daggers , and yet they discharg thrusts not to be parried by any fenceing gard . I saw also here a fine Tabernacle of Cristal : a burneing Lamp found in Antenors tombe in Padua , a burning glasse , which burneth half a mile off : a rare Adam and Eue with the Serpent and the Tree , all cut out of one peece of wood by the rare hand of Alberto Dureo : and in fine , the picture of King Iames of England , the onely picture of any forrain Prince that I saw there . Hauing thus seen this Cabinet of Mars , we went out of the Pallace into the Piazza of S. Mark , vpon which both the foresayd Church of S. Mark , and the Dogès Pallace looke . This is one of the noblest Piazzas that a man can see in any towne . It runns from the Sea side vp along the Pallace to the Church of S. Mark , and from thence turning on the left hand , it spreads it self into a more large , and longer open place , most beautifull to behold : for the whole piazza , euen from the Sea side , to the further end , is all built vpon arches and marble pillars ; and raysed vp with beautifull lodgeings , fit to lodge all the Procuratori of S. Mark ; all the rich forrain merchants ; a world of persons of condition ; the Mint , and the famous Library . In that part of the piazza which lyes vnder the Pallace , the Nobili Venetiani walke altogether , twice a day , to conferre about business of State. This meeting here of the Noblemen is called the Broglio . And in the end of it , close by the Sea side , stand two great pillars of rich marble , the one bearing vpon it the Image of S. Theodorus ; the other , the Lyon of S. Mark , these two Saints , S. Mark and S. Theodore , being the two Patrons of this City . These two pillars were erected here by a Lombard , who required no other recompence for his paynes , then that it might be lawfull for dice-players to play at dice between these two pillars without being punished or molested , nay though they playd false play . Here also between these two pillars , they execute malefactors , to shew that they deserue not the protection of those two patrons , who break the orders of that towne which is vnder their protection . It s pitty that the Lombard himself was not whiped here at least , for makeing himself the Protector of idle rogues there , where the Saints are Patrons of honestmen . Ouer against the Pallace stands the Mint , in a place called La Zeccha , and from hence the gold coyned here is called Zecchino , a peéce of gold worth some seauen shillings fixpence of our mony . Hard by it , stands the Library famous both for the quantity and quality of the bookes that are in it . Petrark ( once Canon of the Church of Padua ) gaue his Library to it : and Bessarion a Greek Cardinal of great Learning and worth , gaue as many Greek Manuscripts vnto it , as cost him thirty thousand crownes : and yet by this Legacy , Bessarion was but euen with the Venetians , who honored him in such a particular manner , as to send out the Bucentauro it self to bring him into Venice , being sent thither Legat by the Pope . 8. Going from hence into the other part of the Piazza which stands before the Church , I espyed vpon the very out corner of the wall of the Church ( as you come out of the Pallace ) four Porphiry Statues of four marchants embraceing one another . Haueing enquired what those Statues were set for there , I was told by a graue old gentleman of Venice , that those , whom these Statues represent , were four marchants and strangers , who brought hither most of the Iewels mentioned aboue in the Treasury ; and that afterwards poysoning one another , out of couetousness , left this State heire of all . Iust before the Church stand three tall masts of ships vpon curiously wrought Piedestals of Brasse , and each mast bearing , vpon great dayes , a stately flag and streamers . These three mast● signify the three noblest parts of the Venetians dominions , to wit the kingdomes of Cyprus , and of Candy , and the State of Venice . In this Piazza I found alwayes a world of strangers perpetually walking and talking of bargains and traffick , as Greeks , Armenians , Albanians , Slauonians , Polonians , Iewes , and euen Turks themselues ; all in their seueral habits , but all conspireing in this one thing , to sell deare ; and buy cheape . Here also they haue euery night in sommer , a world of Montibancks , ciarlatani , and such stuff , who together with their drudges and remedyes , striue to please the people with their little comedies , puppet playes , songs , musick , storyes , and such like buffonnerie . It s strange to see how they finde dayly either new fooling , or new fooles , not onely to heare them but euen the throw them money too for such poore contentments . In this Piazza also stands the Campanile , or High steeple of Venice , distant some fifty paces from the Church of S. Mark. It s built forty foot squar on all sides , and two hundred and thirty six high . The top of it is couered with guilt tiles , which in a sunshine day , appeare gloriously a farre off . The foundation of it is almost as deep vnder-ground , as the top of it is high aboue ground ; a wonder , if you consider rhat it stands in Venice . From the top of this Campanile we had a perfect view of Venice vnder us , and of all its neighboring Ilands , Forts , Sea , and Townes about it ; as also of the outside of S. Marks Church , its Frontispice , its Cupolas and the four horses of brasse guilt which stand ouer the Frontispice . These horses came out of the shop , not out of the stable , of Lisippus a famous statuary in Greece , and were giuen to Nero by Tiridates King of Armenia . They were carryed by Constantin the Great from Rome to Constantinople ; and from thence they were transported hither . In fine , from the top of this steeple , we saw the compasse of the great Arsenal of Venice , which looked like a little towne in our sight . Indeed some make it three miles about ; but I cannot allow it so much . The sight of this Magazin of warre a farre off , made vs hasten downe from the steeple to go see it nearer hand . 9. Takeing therefore a Gondola , we went to the Arsenal , Where after the ordinary formalityes of leauing our swords at the dore , and paying the Porters fees , we were admitted , and led through this great Shop of Mars . It s so well seated neare the Sea side , and so well built , that it might serue the Venetian Senators for a Castle in time of danger : and in it there is a Well of fresh water , not to be poysoned , because of two peéces of Vnicornes horne set fast in the bottom of it . I confesse , I neuer saw any where such Oeconomie as is here obserued . Fifteen hundred men are dayly employed here , and duely payed at the weeks end , according to their seueral employments and works . The expences of these workemen amount to a thousand Ducats euery day in the yeare : so that they make accompt that they spend in this Arsenal four hundred & thirty thousand crownes a yeare : Enough almost to maintain a pretty army constantly . Euery workeman here hath wine twice a day , and that very good too , but that it is a little mingled with water . We were led through all the vast rooms of this Magazin , rooms like vast Churches . In one of them I saw nothing but great ●ares for Gallyes , seauen men going to one oare . In another , nothing but vast sternes . In another , nothing but vast nayles for Gallyes and ships . In another they were making nothing but Salpeeter for gunpowder . In another they were casting great Cannons , Morter peéces , and Chambers . In an other they had nothing but a pair of vast Scales to weigh Cannons with . In another , Masts for Gallyes and ships of a prodigious greatness and length ; and yet of such a rare timber , that one filipping vpon one end of them , you heare it easily at the other end , by applying your care to it . Some of these masts are worth fourscore pounds . In other vast roomes I saw store of Cannons of all sizes both for ships and Gallyes : where also I saw some Turkish Cannons with words vpon them in the Turkish Language . There I saw also one Cannon shooting three shotts at once : another fiue : one great Cannon found buryed in Candy-full of gold medals : the great Cannons cast here while Henry the III. of France dined in this Arsenal . They had heretofore a prodigious quantity of Cannons here , but now these roomes are much emptyed by reason of this warre with the Turks . In other great roomes I saw huge heaps of Cannon bullets of all sizes , with some Ensignes wonn ouer the Turks . Then mounting vp into the Chambers aboue , I saw in two vast roomes , armes for fifty Thousand men . in another , armes for twelue Gallyes : in another , armes for Fifty Gallyes . Here also I saw the sute of armour of Scanderbeg : that of the Dogè zani , the Lanterne of Don Iohn of Austrias ship in the battle of Lepanto : the Lanterne of a Turkish Galley : the armour of Baiamante Theopoli and his complices , with one arme onely : some armes taken from the Turks in the battle of Lepanto , other armes taken from the Genuesi ; a great Crossebow , shooting Vast arrowes of iron aboue fiue quarters long : an inuention of great vse before Gunne were found out . A cannon bullet with four long irons , like the tops of halbards , which shut vp close into it when you put it into the Cannon , but open againe of themselues , as soon as the bullet is out of the Cannons mouth ; and so spreading into four parts , cut all they meet , with strange fury : a dangerous inuention in Sea battles , to to spoyle cordage and tackling . Here also they shew vs the discription of the towne and Fort of Clissa , and how it was taken by the Venetians some 20 yeares agoe . Then descending from thence , we went to see the places where they make new Gallyes , and mend old ones . There I found a vast square court three hundred paces broad in euery square , and full of vast penthouses capable of holding in them , Gallyes of fifty paces long a peéce . In the midst of this Court is a vast square Pond of water , let in from the Sea , where the new Gallyes are tryed ; and the old ones are let into the Arsenal to be mended and rigged a new . Here I saw a world of Gallyes , and a world of men workeing about them most busily . There were heretofore diuers of these great Courts full of Gallyes , but now they are much exhausted ; the Gallyes being abroad in warre . Hence it is obserued that This Arsenal , before these warres , could arme 200 gallyes , and two hundred thousand men . Here it was that they made a Gallye , and set her out at Sea while Henry the III dyued here in the Arsenal ; which made that King say then , that he would giue three of his best townes in France ( except his Parlament townes ) for such an Arsenal . Indeed the Arsenals of Paris , Genua , Zurick , Naples , and Geneua , seemed to me to be little gunnsmiths shops in comparison of this . They were then makeing here two new Galleasses ( when I was last there ) of vast bulk and expences . In fine I saw here the old Bucentoro ; and presently after the new Bucentoro . This last is the Gally of State , of the Dogè , when he goeth forth vpon the Ascension day accompanyed with the Senate , to espouse the Sea , as they call it here . This is a noble Gallie all guilt without , and wainscotted round about the Deck , with guilt seats . There runns a partition of wood quite along the Deck of the Gallie , with seats on both sides and with a low open roof of wood , to let in ayre , and yet keep off the sun ; and all this is guilt and painted , and capable of fiue hundred Senators , who in their scarlat robes , wait vpon the Dogè that day . The Dogè fitts in the Puppe , in a Chair of State , with the Popes Nuncio on one hand of him , and the Patriarch of Venice on the other , and a place for musick behind them . The slaues are all vnder hatches , and not seen at all : but their oares , ( twenty on each side ) moue all at once like great wings which make the Bucentoro moue most maiesticaly . And this is all that I can remember in this Arsenal , except the Cellar of Wine , and the great roomes , ( as I came out ) where women onely are employed in mending old sayles ; and men ( a part ) in makeing great cables : and indeed those wast Anchors which lye neare the woodden bridge here at the entrance , stand in need of cables of the greatest size . 10. I happened to be at Venice thrice , at the great Sea Triumph , or feast of the Ascension , which was performed thus . About our eight in the morneing , the Senators in their scarlat robes , meet at the Doges Pallace , and there taking him vp , they walk with him processionaly vnto the shoare , wete the Bucentoro lyes waiting them ; the Popes Nuncio being vpon his right hand , and the Patriarch of Venice , on his left hand . Then ascending into the Bucentoro , by a hansome bridge throwne out to the shoare , the Dogè takes his place , and the Senators sit round about the Gallie as they can , to the number of two , or three hundred . The Senate being placed , the anchor is weighed , and the slaues being warned by the Capitains whistle and the sound of trumpets , begin to strike all at once with their oares , and to make the Bucentoro march as grauely vpon the water , as if she also went vpon cioppini . Thus they steere for two miles vpon the Laguna , while the musick plays , and sings Epithalamiums all the way long , and makes Neptune iealous to heare Hymen called vpon in his dominions . Round about the Bucentoro flock a world of Piottas and Gondolas , richly couered ouerhead with somptuous Canopies of silks and rich stuffs , and rowed by watermen in rich liueryes , as well as the Trumpeters . Thus forrain Embassadors , diuers noblemen of the country , and strangers of condition wait vpon the Dogès gallie all the way long , both comeing and going . At last the Dogè being arriued at the appointed place , throws a Ring into the Sea , without any other ceremony , then by saying : Desponsamus te , Mare ; in signum perpetui dominij : we espouse thee , ò Sea , in testimony of our perpetual dominion ouer thee : and so returnes to the Church of S. Nicolas in Lio ( an Iland hard by ) where he assists at high Masse with the Senate . This done , he returns home againe in the same state ; and inuites those that accompanyed him in his Gally , to dinner in his pallace : the prepatiues of which dinner we saw before the Dogè was got home . This ceremony of marrying the Sea , as they call it , is ancient , and performed yearly in memory of the grant of Pope Alexander the III , who being restored by the Venetians vnto his Seat againe , granted them power ouer the Andriatick Sea , as a man hath power ouer his wife ; and the Venetians to keep this possession , make euery yeare this watery Caualcata . I confesse , this sight is stately , and a Poēt would presently conceiue , that Neptune himself were going to be marryed to some Nereide . 11. Hauing seen this Ceremony in the morneing , we went after dinner to see the Euening Corso at Murano , where we saw those fine Gondolas and Piottas , which we had seen waiting vpon the Dogè in the morneing , now rowing in state vp and downe the great Canale of Murano to the sound of Trumpets ; and with all the force of the brauny watermen that row them . Sometimes meeting too thick in the arches of the woodden bridge here , they crack one an others Gondalas , breack one an others oares , ouerturne their boatmen , and are stoppt for an houre together without being able to vntangle . Embassadors themselues of Forrain Princes appeare in Corso this euening with all their brauery ( fiue or six Gondolas all in one liuery ) as well as all the gallants and gentry of Venice , who appeare here this euening at Corso . 12. The next morneing no sooner appeared , but new sights appeared too , and now vpon land , and the Scene was S. Marks place , where the Fayre opening this day , and lasting for ten dayes , drew all the gallants of Venice to come and behold all the gallantry and riches that either domestick , or forrain marchands could set forth to sale . But the most part of the yong Ladyes that came to see the Fayre , came in an odd dresse , with a false nose , and a little beard of black wool , disguiseing their mouth and nose : so that they could see all the Fayre , and be knowne to no body . Thus they go often to marriages , and other assemblyes when they haue no mind to be knowne . 13. Hauing thus seen these foresayd sights , we went on with visiting the other things in the towne . and one day we went to the Iland of S. George Major , where we saw a stately Monastery , Church , Cloister and Garden , which take vp this whole Iland . The Church is one of the best in Venice , and built by Palladio the famours Architect . In the Church I was showne the great syluer Lampe , as great as two men could carry . In a pillar of marble standing ouer a side Altar I was showne the picture of a Crucifixe , which was discouered , at the polishing of this stone , to haue been naturally in the Vayne of the marble . In the Refectory , I saw an admirable picture of the supper of Cana in Galilaea , made by Guido Rheni . I visited it often , and could never satiate my eyes with such a rare peece . It takes vp the whole end of the great Refectory . 14. From thence we rowed to the Pallace of Procuratore Nani which stands in an Iland beyond S. Georges . The Pallace is richly furnished with the true pictures of many moderne Princes and Ladys of France , England , and Germany . This Pallace , hath one strange thing belonging to it , beyond the Pallaces of Venice : to wit , a neat garden , for Gardens in Venice , are as wonderfull things , as Coaches : and I cannor remember , that looking vpon the whole city from the top of the high Steeple , I saw two places where there were any green trees . But the best thing that I saw here , was the Procuratore Nani himself , the greatest Ornament of the Venetian Senate , whose learned pen hath already given vs an exellent history of Venice . 15. From hence we walked to the Capucins Conuent which is in the same Iland , and Church neately built , and farre aboue the rate of Capucins ; but it was a Vow of the Senate in time of the plague ; and they regarded more , in building it , their owne honour , then the Capucins simplicity . 16. From hence returning againe towards the towne , we steered our Gondola to the Church of Madonna di Salute , a new round Church , vowed by the State in another plague time , and likely to be one of the finest Churches in Venice when it shall be ended . In the Sacristy I saw a rare picture of a feast by Tintoret ; and others in the roof by Titian . 17. From hence We went to the Church of the Canon Regulars , called La Carita , in whose Monastery Pope Alexander the III , lay hid priuatly like a poore Chaplain of this Church , vnknowne to the Very Fathers of this Place , till at last he was discouered by a Deuout Pilgrim , who haueing seen him often in Rome , and hearing him say Masse here , discouered him to the Senate ; and so , hee was both acknowledged by the Senate , and defended by them , as we sayd aboue . Ouer the entrance of the Quire , is seen the picture of Alexander the III receiuing the Emperor Federick to the kissing of his feet , by the meanes of the Dogè of Venice , who stands by . Here 's also a good picture of our Sauiours raysing vp Lazarus againe to life : it s of the hand af Bassan . 28. An other time I went to the Dominicans Church , called S. Giuanne & Paulo , where I found among the Tombestones , that of the Lord Henry Aubigni ( second brother to the Duke of Lenox and Richemond ) who dyed here in his trauels . Before the dore of this Church stands the Equestris statue in brass guilt of Bart●lomeo Coleone Bargamense a great Commander , to whom ( as the words beare , ob militare imperium optimè gestum ) the Senate decreed this statue to be erected . The Tabernacle and Altar are very stately . The Chappel of S. Hiacinth , & the miracles of this Saint are of the hand Bassan & Palmarino . the Martyrdome of S. Iohn & Paul is a Masterpeece of the hand of Titian . The Conuent also of S. Iohn and Paul is one of the most stately ones in Italy . The Refector● is famous for painting . 19. The Church of S. Saluatore is a fair Church , and well adorned with neat Tombes of diuers Dogès and great persons . Vpon the back of the High Altar is seen a picture of the Transfiguration , of the hand of Titian : Vpon an Altar on the right hand of the Wall , is a picture of the Annuntiation , vnder which Titian wrote these words , Titianus fecit , fecit , to assure men by this double affirmatiue , that it was a good peéce , worth his twice owneing . There 's an other picture of the Last Supper , made by Titians master . Vpon the Epistle side of the High Altar stands a little Chappel , ouer whose Altar is the Tombe of S. Theodorus with his body in it . He is one of the Patrons of this towne . 20. In the Church of S. Chrysostome I saw vpon a side Altar on the left hand , the statues in stone of our Sauiour and his twelue Apostles , neatly cut by Tullius Lombardus , whose rare statues adorne also S. Antonyes Tombe at Padua . His statues are easily knowne by the neat hands . 21. In the Church of the Apostoli I saw a rare picture of S. Lucie , but now somewhat old . 22. In the Church of the Iesuits I saw the Tombe of S. Barbara Virgin and Martyr . 23. In the Domo ( the Cathedral of Venice , but standing much out of the way ) I saw little considerable but the Tombe of S. Laurentius Iustinianus , a holy man , a great Preacher , and the first Patriarch of Venise ; the Patriarchal seat of Grado , being remoued hither in his time . 24. I saw also the Church of S. Iacomo , the first Church that was built in Venice , and built twelue hundred yeares ago in the infancy of Venice , as an old inscription here told me . Here are some good pictures of Lanfrancus , and Marcus Titianus , old Titians nephew and scholler . 25. And being in Venice vpon S. Georges day ( the 23. of April ) we went to the Greek Church , I meane to the Greek schismaticks Church , which is dedicated to God in honour of S. George , and therefore this day was one of their greatest solemnityes . Their ceremonies & Seruice differed little from the Catholicks Greeks : & if any one desire to know their tenents , and how neare they come to the Roman Catholiks , let him read a booke in a thin folio printed at Wittemberg an : 1584. vnder this title , Acta & scripta Theologorum Wittembergensium & Hieremiae Patriarchae . 26. We went after diner one Satturday , to see the Iews Synagogue . Among other things I heard here a Rabbin make a Homily to his flock . He looked like a French Minister , or Puritanical Lecturer , in short cloake and hat . The snaffling through the nose made all the edification that I sawe in it : It was in Italian , but the coldest discourse that I euer heard in any language . Indeed it was their Sabboth day , and they eat no other meat that day , but cold meat . 27. An other day we went to Murano againe , to see the glasse houses which furnish amost all Europe with drinking glasses , and all our Ladyes cabinets with Looking glasses . They vtter here fot two hundred thousand crownes worth a yeare of this brickle ware ; and they seem to haue taken measure of euery nations belly and humour , to sit them with drinking glasses accordingly ▪ For the High Dutch , they haue high glasses , called Flutes , a full yard long , which a men cannot drink vp alone , except his man , or some other , hold vp the foot of this more then two handed glasse . For the English that loue toasts with their drink , they haue curious tankards of thick crystal glasse , iust like our syluer tankards . For the Italians that loue to drink leasurely , they haue glasses that are almost as large and flat as syluer plats , and almost as vn easy to drink out of . And so for other nations . In one shop they were makeing a set of glasses for the Emperor , of fiue crownes euery glasse : They were drinking glasses with high couers made like spred eagles , and finely guilt . Sometimes to shew their art , they make here pretty things . One made a ship in glasse , with all her tacklings , gunns , masts , sayles , & streamers . An other made an Organ in glasse three cubits high , so iustly contriued , that by blowing into it , and touching the stopps it sounded musically . A third made a perfect Castle , with all its Fortifications , ramparts , Cannons , Sentry houses , and gates . Here also I saw them make those vast Looking glasses , whose brickleness sheweth Ladyes themselues , more then their reflection doth . In fine , in Murano you see the Pallace of signor Camillo Treuisano with the rare garden and fountains à la Romana . 28. After this , we went vp and downe the towne of Venice , sometimes a foot , to see better the Shops , as those of silks , clothes of gold ; of Bookes , and the Apothecaryes shops , where I saw them make their famous Treacle : sometimes in gondola , to View ouer and ouer againe , the Canale grande , and the braue Pallaces which hemme it in on bothsides : sometimes entring into the best of those pallaces , to see their rich furniture and contriuances . The best are , of Iustiniani , Mocenigo , Grimant , Priuli , Contarini , Foscoli , Loredano , Gussoni , and Cornaro . 29. Then I enquired what learned men had adorned Venice , and I found these to haue been the chiefe , Laurentius Iustinianus , Hermolaus Barbarus , Petrus Bembus , Aloysius Lippomanus , Paulus Paruta , Baptista Egnatius , Ludouicus Dolce , Paulus Manutius , with diuers others . I saw some years agoe the noble and ingenious Loredano , whose witty bookes make him famous ouer all the Academyes of Italy and Europe . As also the Procuratore Nani , whose excellent History hath got him immortal fame . 30. Here 's an Academy of wits called Incogniti , and for their armes , they haue the riuer Nilus , with this motto ; Incognito , e pur noto : vnknowne , and yet famous . He that desires to know the history of Venice , let him read Andrea Morasini , Paolo Paruta , Sabellico , Bernardino Tomasino , Corid● , and Nani . Hauing thus seen all Venice , ouer and ouer againe , in a months stay there , I was most willing to leaue it ; hauing found it true of Venice , what Socrates sayd of Athens , that is was melior meretrix , quam uxor ; a fine towne for a fortnight ; but not to dwell in alwayes ; and this , by reason of some stinking channels ; bad cellers for wine ; worse water ; and the moist ayre of the Sea not the most wholesome ; scarcity of earth euen to bury their dead in ; and little fewel for fireing . So that findeing the four elements wanting here in their purity , I was willing to leaue these polished Holanders , and returne to Padua . Padua is the second towne of the Venetian State , though once the Mother of Venice . It s old enough to be mother of Rome it self ; haueing been built by Antenor , whose Tombe is yet seen here . The towne is very great , and fuller of good houses , then of men of condition : taranny , and too frequent murthers haueing much depopulated it , in point of nobility . It stands in the Marca Treuigiana . The walls about it are strong , and backt vp with fine ramparts . It lyes neare the Euga●ian hills , in a fertile soyle , and plain , which makes the Prouerbe say : Bologna la grassa , ma Padua la passa . It s famous for the study of Physick , as many of our thrice worthy Physitians in England can testify . The chief things I obserued in it are these . 1. Antenors Tombe , with Gotick letters vpon it : which makes me doubt whether this Tombe be so ancient as they make it . 2. The publick Schooles , called here Il Bue , or Oxe ; what if the first Readers here came from Oxford , as they did to the Vniuersity of Pauia ? 3. The Physick garden , to acquaint the Students in Physick , with the nature of simples . 4. The Church of S. Antony of Padua , whose body lyes in the open Chappel on the left hand ; and this Chappel is adorned with curious figures of white marble representing the chief actions of this Saints life . Vnder the Altar reposeth his body ▪ and before it , hang some 27 great Lampes of syluer , or syluer guilt . Oueragainst this Chappel , stands iust such another open Chappel , called , the Chappel of San Felice , which is rarely painted by famous Giotto , who made the Campanile of Florence . In a side Chappel on the right hand , is the tombe of braue Gatta Mela , whose true name was Erasmo di Narni , of whom more by & by . The Tombe of Alexander Contareno General of the Venetians , and it is one of the best cut tombes I haue seen : It s fastened to a side pillar . The Quire of this Church is all of inlayd wood ▪ In the Cloister of the Conuent are seen many tombes of learned men : and in that quarter of the cloister , which lyes vpon the Church , I found written upon a black marble stone , these words : Interiora Thomae Howardi Comitis Arondeliae : The bowels of the Earle of Arondel , late Lord Marschal of England . No wonder if his bowels be enchased in marble after his death , who in his life time , loued marbles con todas sus entranias , with his whole bowels . His Marmora Arondeliana , commented vpon by learned M r. Selden , shew this sufficiently . This great man dyed here in Padua , and yet in a manner at home ; because he had made Italy familiar to him while he liued at home . 5. Going out of this Church I saw the Equestris Statue of Gatta Mela , the Venetians General , whose tombe I saw euen now in the Church . He was nicknamed Gatta , because of his watchfulness in carryeing business . 6. The Chu●ch of S. Iustina is one of the finest Churches of Italy ; and no wonder , seing its architect was Palladio . Vnder the High Altar of this Church , lyes buryed the body of S. Iustina . The fine Cupolas ; the curious Pauement of red and black marble ; the rich High Altar all of pietre commesse ; the curious seats in the Quire , with the historyes of the old and new Testament cut in wood in them ; the fine picture at the end of the Quire , ouer the Abbots Seat , containing the martyrdome of S. Iustina , by the hand of Paolo Veronese ; the Tombe of S. Luke the Euangelist ; and that of S. Matthias ; the Well , full of Relicks ; and the Tombe of S. Prosdochimus S. Peters disciple , and first Bishop of Padua , do all make this Church very considerable . Before this Church and Monastery , lyes the Campo Santo , and a faire field where they keep monthly a mercato franco , and where the euening Corso is kept , by Ladyes & noblemen in their coaches in sommer . 7. The Monastery here is also one of the fairest in Italy , and the second of that Order . The painted cloister , the neat Library , and the picture of S. Iustina in the Abbats chamber , made by Paolo Veronese , are all worth your curiosity . The Domo is not so well built , as it is endowed with rich prebendaries . A hundred thousand cownes a yeare go to the maintenance of a hundred Cleigy men , and officers belonging to it . The Prebends are 27 , and ordinarily gentlemen . 28. The Pallace of the Capitano Grandè is stately without : here stands the curious Library . 9. The great Hall called here , Il Palagio di Ragione , is a vast roome 180 paces long , & 40 broad , without pillars . It hath four great dores to it , and ouer euery dore the Statue of a learned Paduan . This Hall is also painted in the roof with astronomical figures , representing the influences of the superior bodyes ouer the inferior . At one end of it you see a round stone , with these words written about it , Lapis opprobrij , The stone of disgrace , vpon which whosoeuer will sit publickly , and declare him self not to be soluendo , cannot be clapt vp in prison for debt . At the other end of this Hall stands Liuys Head in white marble , and out of a little back dore there , ioyning to the wall of this Hall , stands Liuyes busto in stone , with this Epitaphe vnder it in old Gothick letters ; Ossa Titi Liuij Patauini vnius omnium mortalium iudicio digni , cujus prope inuicto calamo inuicti Populi Romani res gestae conscriberentur . 10. The picture of the High Altar in the Augustins Church , made by Guido Rheni ; and that of S. Iohn Baptist in the Sacristy , of the same hand , are both exquisitly well done . 11. The ruines of an old amphitheater are seen hard by the Augustins Church . There 's now a house built vpon the place , yet the Court is ouall still , and carryes the name of Arene . Here they tilt , and vse other sports of Caualry . 12. In the Dominicans Church there is a very stately High Altar of pietre commesse . Behind the Altar ( in the Quire ) are the neate Tombes of the Carari , once Signors and Princes of Padua , till they were put out by the Venetians . 13. In the Church of San Francesco Grande I saw a curious Altar of white polished marble , which pleased me vety much , and the tombes of Caualcante & Longolio . 14. In the little neat Church of the Oratorians , called the Church of S. Thomas of Canterbury , lyes buryed the Lady Katherine Whitenhall , in a vault made for the nonce , and couered with a white marble stone . She was daughter to the late Earle of Shrewsbury , and wife to the Noble and Vertuous Thomas Whitenhall Esquire . If you would know more of her , read here the ingenious Epitaphe written vpon her tombe , and made by her sad husband . For my part , hauing had the honour to see her often in her Trauels , I cannot but make honorable mention of her here in mine ; She haueing so much honoured my profession of Traueling by her generous humour of Traueling . She was as nobly borne as the house of Shrewbury could make her : as comely , as if Poets had made her . Her behauiour was such , that if she had not bien noble by birth , she would haue passed for such by her carriage . Her good qualityes were so many , that if they had been taken in peéces , they would haue made seueral women Noble , and Noble women happy . She was wise beyond her yeares ; stout aboue her sexe ; and worthy to haue found in the world all things better then she did , except her Parents and Husband . Her onely fault was that , which would haue made vp other Ladyes prayses , too much courage ; which befell her with the name of Talbo● . But whilst her onely courage haled her on to journeys aboue her sexe and force ( haueing seen Flanders , France , and Italy , accompanyed by her noble Husband , and a hansome traine ) In her returne back ; like a tall ship , comeing laden home and fraughted with pretious acquisitions of mind , she sunck almost in the hauen , and , alas ! Dyed . 15. Here are two Academies of wits ; the one called Gli Ricouerati : the other , Gli Infiammati . The most famous men of Padua for learning , were these , Liuy , Apponius , Paulus the Iurisconsult , Sperone Speroni , Antonius Querenchus , Iacobus Zabarella : and Titian the famous Painter . He that desires to know the History of Padua , let him read Angelo Portinari delle felicitade di Padua : Antonio Riccobono , de Gymnasio Patauino , & de eius praeclaris doctoribus : as also the booke called Gl'Origini di Padua . Hauing thus seen Padua , we steered towards Milan againe , to make the compleat gyr● of Italy . The first dayes journey was to Vicenza , a fine towne belonging to the Venetians , and standing vpon the two riuers of Bachilione , and Rerone . Here we saw , the neat Townehouse and large piazza : the house and fine garden of Count Valmerana , with the curious Labyrinth in the garden : the Arcus Triumphalis made by Palladio at the townes end , letting you into a fair field called the Champo Marzo , where Ladyes and Caualiers , in great store , meet at the Corso in their coaches euery sommer Euening : the admirable Theater for playes and Operas ; it was made also by rare Palladio , & is capable of three thousand people , who may all sit , and see with conueniency . The fine pallaces here , and those full of people of condition . Here 's an Academy of wits called Gl'Olympici , He that desires to know the History of Vicenza , let him read Iacomo Marzari , and Alfonso Loschi . From Vicenza we went to Verona , called Verona la Nobile , belonging to the Venetians also . It standt in excellent ayre , and no man euer saw it but liked it . It s watered with the riuer Addesis , which comeing out of Germani , runns by Trent and so to Verona . Hence this towne abounds with good prouisions , wines , and rich marchants : Which makes me of opinion , that Verona would be a bettet sommer towne for strangers to liue in , then Padua . The things that I saw here , were these : The three Castles , which with the new bulworks make this towne able to defend it self against any enemy . 2. The Cathedral , or Domo , ancient rather then stately . In it is buryed Pope Lucius the III , with this ingenious Epitaphe vpon his tombe : Luca dedit lucem tibi , Luci , Pontificatum Ostia , Papatum Roma , Verona mori . Imo Verona dedit tibi Lucis gaudia , Roma Exilium , curas Ostia , Luca mori . 3. The famous tombe of the Signori della Scala , who once were Masters here , and from whom Ioseph and Iulius Scaliger pretend to haue comne . This tombe is seen from the Street , and is much esteemed for its height and structure . 4. In the Monastery of S. George , the rate picture of S. George made by Paolo Veronese , for which the late Lord Marschal of England offered two thousand pistols . 5. The rare Am●hitheater , built at first by the Consul Flaminius , and repayred since by the townesmen ; and now the most entire amphitheater in Europe . Here 's also an Academy of wits called Gli Philarmonici . The famousest men for learning here , were these : Zeno Veronensis , an ancient Father and great Preacher . Cornelius Nepos , Pliny the sec●nd , Catullus According to that , Mantua Virgilio gaudet , Verona Ca●ullo . Fracastorius , Onuphrius Panuinus , Paulus Aemilius the historian : Francesco Pona ; Al●ysius Nouarinus ; and Paolo Veronese , the ingenious Painter . Neare Verona , vpon the Plains before you come to the towne , was fought a famous battle , where C. Marius defeated the Cimbers . Neare this towne also was fought a famous battle between Theoderick and Odeacer , where the latter was defeated . He that desires to know the history of Verona , let him read Torello Saraina , Girolamo di Corte Compendio dell Istoria di Verona ; and the Antiquitates Veronenses of Onuphrius Panvinus . From Verona we went to Brescia by the way of Peschiera and Disensan● . Peschiera is a strong Fort belonging to the Venetians , and garded by a constant garrison . It stands vpon the Lago di Garda , Lacus Benacus anciently , and is almost surrounded by its Crystalin waters . It s a most Regular Fortification , with fiue Bastions , and high Rampar●s , which couer the whole towne . Disenzano is a little towne vpon the Lake of Garda also . Here they haue excellent fish , and Vine ; that is , rare Carpioni , and muscatello , which they call Vino Santo . From hence after dinner , we arriued betimes at Brescia , another strong towne of the Venetians . We saw here the Castle ; the Towne house ; neat Churches ; the ramparts and walls of the towne ; the crystalin Brooks running through the streets ; and the shops of the gunnsmiths , especially that of famous Lazarino Comminazzo . The best Historians of the Brescian affairs , is Ottauio Rossi , in his booke called Memoria Br●scianae . From Brescia I went once to Crema and Bergamo , two strong townes of the Venetians , and both frontiers to the State of Milan . The first is very strong and famous for fine linnen made here . The latter is strong too , both by its Castle , good walls , and its high situation vpon a hill , which giues you a fair prospect into the Milanese for twenty or thirty miles . In the Church of the Augustins lyes buryed Ambrosius Calepinus author of the excellent Latin Dictionary , which learned Passeratius hath set out since with great additions . It s in six languages . From Bergamo I went to Milan , one days journey . An other time I went from Brescia to Milan by the way of Mantua , and Mirandola . Mantua belongs to a Soueraine Duke , or Prince , of the house of Gonsague . Its stands in the midst of Marshes which are nurrished by the riuer Mincius : so that there 's no coming to it but by two long bridges ouer the Lake . And yet this towne was taken some forty yeares ago : no towne being impregnable where an Asse laden with gold can enter ; or where faction keeps one gate . For about that time , the Emperors Army , by secret intelligence , presenting it self before it , was let in ; and sacked the towne . At the entrance of the towne gates , they obserue the fashion of many other townes in Italy , to make Trauelers leaue their pistols and carabins at the gate where they enter , and not see them againe till they meet them at the other gate where they goe out ; giueing them , for all that , a contrasegno or little talley , where of you keep one peéce , and the other is tyed to your pistols , where by you may clayme and challenge them . This is an ancient custome in the Romans times , as I finde in Valerius Maximus , who sayth , it was the practise of those of Marseilles ( then a Roman Colonie ) vt hospitia sua , quemadmodum aduenientibus humana sunt , ita ipsis tuta sint . As for Mantua it self , it s well built , and full of good houses . The Dukes Pallace was heretofore one of the richest of Italy . I was told that it had seauen changes of hangings for euery roome in the house ; besides a world of rare pictures , Statues , plate , ornaments , cabinets , an Vnicorns horne , an Organ of Alabaster ; six tables , each one three foot long , the first all of emerauds , the second of Turky stones , the third of hyacinths , the fourth of Saphirs , the fift of Amber , the sixt of Iasper stone . But the Imperialists swept all away . The origin of the house of Gonsague is from Germany . For a long time they were onely Marquises of Mantua , till Charles the V. made them Dukes . The Reuenues of this Prince are about fiue hundred thousand crownes . His Interest ( as that of the other lesser Princes of Italy ) is to ioyne with the stronger of the two Nations France , or Spayne . And he hath bine often forced to put now and then a French ga●rison , now and then a Spanish garrison into his strong towne of Casal , one of the strongest places I saw in all Italy : hauing an excellent Cittadel at one end of it ; a strong Castle at the other , and strong ditches , walls , and ramparts euery where . In fine , this Duke can rayse , about fifteen thousand foot , and two thousand horse . Of Mantua were these two excellent Latin Poets ; old Virgil , and moderne Baptista Mantuanus a Carmelit . He that desires to know the history of Mantua , let him read Mario Aquicola . From Mantua we went to Mirandola , being inuited thither by its wonderfull name . It is a principality farre more ancient then great ; and it is so called , from Three children borne here of a great Lady , at one birth . The story as it is pretty , so it is related by good authors , and therefore I will give it you here , in the end of this my Italian iourney , as a faire well . And t is this . Constantius the Emperor , Sonn of Constantin the great , had à daughter called Euridis ; who beeing growne vp in yeares , fell in loue with Manfred a courtier of her Vncle Constantin , à hansome well bred yong gentleman . Manfred was both courtier enough , and wise enough , to vnderstand this to be no small honour ; and therefore embraced her affection with a corresponding flame . In a word , they meet often ; talke of it ; giue mutual promises ; make all the money they can , and iewels , and flye away secretly . They come into Italy , land at Naples , from thence to Rauenna ; and at last pitch vpon this country where now Mirandula stands . It was then a place ouerspred with thickets and vnderwoods , and furnishing some pasturage for sheep , and cottages for shepheards . Here then they choose to liue priuately and conuerse with none but country swaines , and shepheards . Blind loue whither doest thou hurrey , Princesses , to make them preferre cottages before Courts ? At last with their money they buy land , and Manfred grows Soone to that authority among his neighbours , that they choose him for their Head ; and recurre vnto him , vpon all occasions for his aduise and protection : In the meane time ( haueing solemnly marryed Euridis at his arriual in Italy ) she brings him forth three sonns at once , Picus , Pius , and Papazzo ; and Manfred growes farre more considerable dayly in these parts . At last the Emperor Constantius comeing into Italy vpon his accasions , and being complimented by all the seueral provinces thereof , this Prouince among the rest , chose Manfred as their Embassador to the sayd Emperor , to carry to him the tender of their respects and homage . Manfred accepted of the employment , and carryed himself so gallantly in the Embassy , that the Emperor knighted him , and vpon further tryal of his worth , raysed him to high fauour . Manfred seing the realityes of the Emperor , thought it now high time to discouer himself vnto him . Whereforecasting himself one day at the Emperors feet , and begging his pardon , he discouered himself vnto him , and told him his whole story , and aduentures . At fitst the Emperor was a little troubled ; but findeing such freedome and gallantry in his carriage , mingled with such humble ingenuity in the Confession of his fault ; he not onely pardoned what was past , but presently sent for Euridis and her children to come to him , and liue at court with him . This done he makes Manfred Count and Marquis , of a great part of these countryes , and gives him leaue to build townes and Castles there : and for his armes giues him the black Eagle . In fine , in memory of the three children borne so wonderfully at one birth , he commands that the chief towne thould be called Miranda . After the death of Constantius , Manfred and his Lady returned with great riches vnto their old dwellind place , and there began to build Miranda , which in processe of time was called Mirandola . This true story if it looke like a Romance , you must not wonder ; seing Romances now a dayes , looke like true stories . The Prince of Mirandola receiues yearly fourscore thousand crownes . The greatest ornament of this country , was that famours Ioannes Picus Mirandulanus ; whose life S. Thomas Moore wrote , and hauing written it , liued it . From Mirandula I struck to Parma , and so to Piacenza , Lodi , and Marigno , described all aboue ; and at last to Milan againe , where I had been before , and where my giro of Italy ended , as now my Iourney and description doth . I takeing here a new rise from Milan , and crossing through Swisserland by the Lake of Como , and ouer mount S. Godart , came to Basil . Where embarking vpon the Rhene , I saw Strasbourg , Brisac , Spire , Philipsbourg , Openhem , Coblentz , Hamerstede , Wormes , Francfurt , Mayence , Colen , Dusseldorp , Skinksconce , Rais , Wesel , Arnehem and diuers such fine Rhenish townes . Then haueing Viewed Holand and Flanders , I came at last to Calais , and so home to my owne Deare Country England , by the way of Douer . FINIS . A TABLE OF THE NAMES OF THE CHIEF TOWNES Contained in this second part . A. ADria . 361 Albano . 306 Amiclae . 259 Ancona . 350 Assisium . 321 Auersa . 269 B. Baiae . 297 Bergamo . 440 Brecia . 439 C. Caëta . 263 Capua . 268 Campania . 267 Carigliano , River . 266 Casal . 442 Catholica . 352 Ceraualle . Cesena . 355 Crema . 339 Cuma . 303 D. Disensano . 439 E. Elisian fields ▪ 298 F. Faenza . 356 Fano . 351 Ferrara . 357 Foligni . 321 Forli . 355 Formiae . 262 Fossa Noua . 259 Firscati . 307 Fundi . 260 G. Gandulfo . 307 Grotta dell Cane . 292 Grotta di Posilipo ▪ 290 K. Kingdome of Naples . 207 Kingdome of Cyprus : 373 L. La Laguna . 362 Lacus Auernus . 302 Lago di garda . 439 Loreto . 322 M. Macerata . 322 Mantua . 44● Marino . 259 Minturna . 266 Mirandola . 443 Mola . 262 Mons Massicus . 267 Monte Falco . 321 Monte Garo . 267 Murano . 423 N. Naples . 269 Narni . 318 P. Padua . 426 Palma noua . 575 Pansilipus M t. 290 Peperno . 259 Pesaro . 352 Peschiera . 438 Puzzolo . 296 R. Recanatà . 322 Rimini . 354 Rome . 3 &c. Ruigo . 361 Rubicon , Riv ▪ 355 S. Senegallia . 351 Spoleto . 319 Sulphatara . 295 T. Taracina . 259 Terni . 319 Tiber , Riv. 318 Tiuoli . 313 Tolentino ▪ 321 Tres Tabernae . 259 V. Veletri . 259 Venice . 363 &c. Verona . 436 Vesuuius , M t. 284 Via Appia . 261 Via Flaminia . 317 Vicenza . 435 Notes, typically marginal, from the original text Notes for div A49620-e1660 M. Warcupp . M. Raymond . The profit of traueling . Senec. Senec : Strada de Bello Belg. The Traueling with profit ▪ The Character of a good Gouernour . What to be learnt in France , and what not . What in Italy , and what not . What in Germany , and wha● not . What in Holland , and what not . Plutarch . Notes for div A49620-e6870 The Fertility of Italy . An obiectiō against Italy . Answer . Baltazar Bonifacius in hist . Ludicra l. 13. c. 1● . Sol & homo generant hominem . Plutarchus in Graccho . ●alzacin 1. volum : liter . The Inhabitāts and their wits . Poëts Ancient , and Moderne in Italy . Historians . Orators . Prodigies of learning . Diuines . Philosophers . Architects . Sculptors . Painters . Ancient and moderne Captains . See Verstegan in his restitution of decayed intelligence . The Jtalian Humour . Their māners . See Monsignor Caza , Stephano Guazzo , Baltazar Castigliōe Their Ceremonies . Their particular customes . Nomen , quasi no●amen . S. Aug. Their Riches . Their Religion . Rex est nomen officij . S. Ambr. Yssone : Fontainbelleau . The Court of the Cheual Blanc The Oual Court. The Gallery of staggs heads . The Galleries of Romāces . The Salle of the Conference . See the Publick Acts of this Conference printed an . 1601. Madame Gabriells picture . The Chappels . Old Carps De re Rust An old Inscriptiō concerning Englishmen . Montargis . Briare . The Coniunction of Loire and Sene. Lyons . A noble Chapter . S. Iohns Church . The Towne house . Other Rarities . The rare Cabinet of Monsieur Seruier . Vienne . Tournon . Valence . Pont S. Esprit . Auignon . The rarities . Aix . Marseilles . La saincte Baume . See Baronius ad an . 35. Gordons Cronology . Gerard of Nazareth in a treatise ex professo . Valer. Max. Mulier peccatrix in ciuitate . See Baron . an . 35 Genebrad Gautier . Chassanus . and Monsieur du Vair . S , Maximin . Pyrrho dicebat , nihil interesse , inter vitam & mortem . Geneua . The rarities . Petrus a S. Romualdo in Diario . The Lake of Geneua Lausanna . Swisserland . Berne signifies as much as Beare . Soleur , Petrus Romualdus in Cronolog . Tresor . to . 1. pag. 83. in fol. Murat . The Lake of Murat . A long Bridge . Coire . S. Lucius the first Christian King. The Valtaline . Mount Berlin . Le Splug . Mount Aurigo . The Lakes of wallinstade , & Jsee . S. Maurice . The Valesians . Their Strength . Martigni Sion . The best Gards of a Prince . Plus tutatur Amor Lucia . Briga . Mount Sampion . Deuedra . Domodoscela . Marguzzi . Lake Maior . S●sto . Ciuita Castellanza . Mount Aiguebellet . Chambery . The Entry of the Dutchesse of Sauoy . Montmelian . Isere . Aiguebelle S. so S. Iohn Morian . Lasnebourg . Mount Cenis . Noualese . Suza . Le pas de Suse . Piedmont S. Ambrosio . Riuolle . Turin . The Riuer Po. Petrus a S. Romualdo Cron. to . 1 The Duke of Sauoys titles , and greatness . His Subiects . His countryes extent . His forces Reuennues . His interest . The towne of Turin . The things to be seen in Turin . The Holy Syndon . The Citadelle . The Pallace . The bathing place . The old Gallery . The new street . The Piazza Reale . The Augustins Church . The Capucins Church . La Venerie Royale . La Valentine . From Turin to Genua . Sauona . La Riuiera di Genua . Dreido a S. Quintino lib. 1. de morib . & Act. Norman . Genua . The walls The Hauuen . The Pharos . The Cittye it selfe . The streets Strada Noua . The Domo . Baron . ad an . 1101. n. 13. Beda l. d● loc . sanct . c. 2. The Annunciata . Gli Signori Lomelini . S. Am●●sio . S. Cyro . The Pallaces . The Pallaces of Signori Balbi . The Doges Pallace . The Armory . San Pietro in Arena . The Villa of the Duke d'Oria . The Gouerment . Their Fashions . Guardinfanta signifies a Child-preseruer Their Riches . Their Strength . Their Interest . Their learned men . The Academy of Wits . Their Historian . Monferat Cassale . Alexandria . Noui. Tortona . Pauia . Ticinum . The Domo . The Equestris statua of Autoninus . S. Augustins body . Baron . an . 725. Baron . an . 1027. The tombe of Seuerinus Boetius . See Baron . an . 525. Learned men . The Historians . The Battle of Pauia . See Monlukes Commentaries The Carthusians Monastery . Milan . The Dutchy of Milan . Store of Gentry . Store of Artizans S. Ambrose his Church . S. Ambrose his Tombe . Read S. Augustin lib. 9 Conf c. 7. Numb . 21 v. 8. Iohn 3.14 . The Hymne Te Deum . The place of the Cōuersion of S. Austin The Cistertians Monastery . S. Victors Church . S. Nazario . S. Eustorgio . The Domo S. Lorenzo . The Holy Naile . The Hospital . The Seminary . The colledge of the Swissers . The Lazzaretto . The Library . The Gallery of pictures . The Dominicans . The Gratie . The Cabinet of Canonico Setaly . Some Pallaces . The Castle . The shops The Academy of witts . The learned Men. A strong body . Leandro Alberto A Strong mind . Its reuenues . It s strenth Its Historians . Marignano . Lodi . Piacenza Its Rarities . A peece of thrift . It s History . Parma . The Dukes Pallace . The Domo The Capucins . Alexander Farnese . Some Criticks hold Quintus Curtius to be a Romance The Dukes Reuenues . His interest . His forces The Academy of wits . It s History . Regio . Modena . The Family of Estè . Countesse Matilda . The last true Consuls . It s Learned Men. The Dukes Reuenues . His interest . His forces Fort Vrban . Castel Franco . Bologna . The towne it selfe . Jts Gouerment . Its Priuiledges . The Dominicans Church . The Dominicans Conuent . The Body Beata Catherina The Corso S. Michael in Bosco . Other stately Monasteries . S. Petronios Church . The Dom● Other Churches The Legats Pallace . Aldrouan dus his Study & Cabinet . The Schooles . The Spanish Colledge . The 2 Towers . The Houses in Bolognia . The Nobility . The Traffick . The Markets . The Academy of wits . The Learned Men. The Historians . Remember this Bolettina , Traueler . The Apennin Hills . Tertul. l. de Poenitent . c. 12. Fiorenzuola . My arriual at Florence . Florence . The Chappel of S. Laurence . The Church of S. Lorenzo . The Library . The Great Dukes Gallery . Pictures of famous Souldiers . Pictures of Learned Men. The Armory . The 1. Cabinet . The 2. Cabinet The 3. Cabinet . The 4. Cabinet . The 5. Cabinet . The Argentaria . The great Hall. The long Corridor . The new Pallace . The Garden . The Dukes Appartiment . A Rare sute of Hangings . The famous Diamond . The Augustins Church . The Piazza . Three admirable Towers . The Church of S. Michel . The Domo . The Cupola . Leandro Alberti in Descript : Jtal. The Councell of Florence . In his restitution of decayed intelligēce See Baker in Edward the 3. Vassari in the Liues of Painters , in Cimabue . The Campanile . The Baptisterio . Alfonso Loschi in his Compend Histo . The Church of S. Mark The Annunciata . Sancta Croce . The Abbey . S. Maria Nouella . The statue of Iustice . Poggio Imperialle . Prato-Lino . Lampeggio . The stable● . The Wild beasts . In the Cronology of Petrus Romualdus to 1. pag. 15. Their Sports . Jl Giuoco di Calcio . Other Pastimes . The Court. The Great Duke . The Great Dutchesse The Medicean Family . See Alfonso Loschi in his compendi . Histor . The Gouerment . The strength . The Gentry of Florence . Riches . Interest . The Language The Academy of Wits . The learned men . The Historians . Pistoia . Lucca . It s Gouerment . It s strength . Its Reuenews . Pisa . The Domo . The bending Tower. Some Colledges . The Library . The Physick garden . The Knights of S. Stephano . Ligorne . San : Cassiano . Poggi Bonzi . Siena . The armes of Siena , are a Woolf. The Domo . The rare Pauement . The Library . S. Katharine of Siena . Other Rarities . The Academy of Wits . The History . Radicofino . Aquapedente . Can. ita nos 25. qu. 2. Bolsena . The Lake of Bolsena Bosco Helerno . Montefiascone . Viterbo . The Accademy of Wits . Caprarola Monterosa . Varca . Veii . Valer. Max. l. 1. c. 5. Notes for div A49620-e56990 How Rome is stiled . Roma la Santa . Serm. 1. de Natal . Apost . Petri Paul. Great Charityes in Rome . Remedyes for euils of the body . Meretrices lupas vocabant vnde Luparia . Augustin . de Ciuit. Deil. 18. c. 21. Quint. Curt. Almost euery nation hath an Hospital in Rome . An ingenious peece of Charity . Remedies for euils of the mind . Osymunduas : apud Herodot . Publike Libraries Colledges . Monasteries . Houses for yong girles . Remedies for ill marryed women . The Conuent of Penitents . Charity of Lawiers in Rome . Broken-friend-setters . Four Sermons dayly in one place in Rome . Weekly sermons to the Iewes . The scholae Pi● . The Fathers of the Agonizants . La Compagnia de Morti. Ponte Angelo . The Triumphal Bridg. Vanity in Triumphs Castel Angelo . The long Corridor from the Pallace to the Castle . Santa Maria Transpontina . The English Embassadors Pallace S. Iacomo Scozza Caualli . The Portico of the Piazza of S. Peter , The great Guglia before S. Peters . The Fountains . The Piazza , S. Peters . The marble steps vp to S. Peters Ch. Baron ad an . 774. The Frontispice . The Porch The Church it self . Porta Santa . Valu● S. Petri , The inside of the Church of S. Peter , To roof . The four great Pilastri . The High Altar . The Tombe of S. Peter . The 4. brasse pillars of the Altar . 2. Paxalip . c. 2. The Confessio S. ●etri . num . 1. The Limina Apostolorum . Cubicularii S. Petri. Vid. Anastas . Biblioth . in Marcello . Paulin. Epist . 12. ad Seuer . S. Greg. Nazianzens tombe . S. Chrisostoms tombe . S. Gregories tombe . Stow in his Chronicles in Kentish Saxons . The Chair of S. Peter . The Chief Relicks . Some Tombes . Some prime Pictures . The Sacristy of S. Peter . An ancient Picture . The Grotte vnder S. Peters Church . Adrian the IV an English man. S. Peters Church aboue . The round Ball capable of 30 man. Prayse of S. Peters Church . The reuenue of S. Peters Church . Aggaē● 2.10 . Baronius an . 390 n. 5. The Vatican Pallace . The Sala Regia . The Popes Chappel . The Popes Sacristy . S. Laurence his Head. The Gallery painted by Raphael . Constantins battle with Maxentius . The best designed picture in the world . Sala Clementina . A rare peece of perspectiue . The rare Gallery of Maps . The Gallerie of the Conclaue . The Vatican Library . The Library it self . Some rare bookes here . K. Henry the VIII Letters to Anne Bolen . K. Henry the VIII booke against Luther . The Library of the Duke of Vrbin . The Library of Heidelberg . The place of Registers . Some Letters of great P●●sons . Harsh Latin. Canon Paschalis . The Belueder● The great Pineapple The two Peacocks . The Beluedere of the Maschere . Rare statues Michel Angelos study . The great Garden of Beluedere The Armory . The Santo Officio . The Hospital of S. Spirito . Lewis Guyon in diuer . lec . l. 2. c. 16. S. Onofrios . Church . The Tombe of Torquato Tasso . Longara . Villa Chisi . Queen Christinas Pallace . S. Pancratius his Church . Caemeterium Calepodii Villa Pamfilia . The Fountaine of Paulus V. San Pietro Montorio Mons Janiculus La Scala Santa Maria Transteuere . Tabernae Meritoriae . S. Francesco in Ripa Grande . Ripa Grande . S. Cicilies Church . S. Cicilyes Tombe . Cardinal Adams Tombe . For , fuit . S. Chrysogono . Cardinal Robert Archb. of Yorke . S. Bartholomews Tombe . Ponte quatro Capi. Pons Sublicius . The Iewry . Theatrum Marcells . Santa Maria in Cosmedin Bocca della Verità . S. Maria Egyptiaca . The Cloaca Naxima . Markes of Romes greatness anciently . The Temple of Bona Dea. Cacut his denn . Scalae Gemoniae . S. Alexius his Church . S. Sabinas Church . The Armilustrium . Mons Testacius The Tombe of C. Cestius . Epulones . The Gate of S. Paul. S. Pauls Church . In proaemio . Limina Apostolorum . The miraculous Crucifix . Baron . Baron ad Ma●●● Rom● ●●0 Mar●●● . Tre Frontane . The Church of S. Vincent and Anastase Baronius an . 627. Baron . An. 627 and an . 713. The round Church . Tre Fontane . The Annunciata . S. Sebastians Church . The Catacombes . Caemeterium Calixti . S. Hierom . in Ezechiel . c. 40. Capo di Boue . The Pretorium . Circus Caracalla The Temple Vertue & Honour . The Eccho . Domine quovadis . S. Nereus and Achilleus San Sisto . S. Iohn A● Portam Latinam . S. Iohn Laterans Church . The Popes Cathedral . Tacitus , and Iuuenal . sat . 10. The Heads of S. Peter and S. Paul. Apud ●um in Elog. doct●r . viror . Caeremia le Roma num l. 1 sect . 2. c. 3. Zenar . and Cedren . The Fable of Pope Ioanne . Vnlikeliness of this fable . Enemyes charge no proof . Hearsay no conuiction Contradiction in the tale , a signe of falsity . Aduersaryes confesse it to be a fable . Epist . Serrauii Chamier . Du Moulin . Bochart . The Bapistery of Constantine . The Scala Santa . The sancta Sanctorum . See Pancirola . Lib. Della Nottia de Vocaboli Ecclesiastici , in verbo Achyropoeta . Calcata . Menochio Centuria 1. c. 10. Triclinium Leonis The Hospitall of S. Iohn Laterans . S. Stefano Rotondo . S. Maria in Nauicella . Villa Mathei . The Amphiteat●r . Rome sacked six times . Vesari in prefa Pliny . Omnis Caesareo cedat Labor Amphitheatro ; vnum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus . Meta S The Thriumphal Arche of Constantin the great . S. Gregories Church . Antoninus his Bathes . Circus Maximus . The Emperors Pallace . Templum Iani. S. and while they dispute it ●lego on to S. Georges Church . The Velabrum . Forum Boarium . The Tomple of Vesta . The Vestal Virgins . See Plutark in Numa . The Campo Vaccino . The Temple of Iupiter Stator . Ad an 324 ▪ Lacus Curtij . See Tit. Liuius and others The finest Jewels . Farneses garden . The English Vineyard . The Arche of Titus . The Church of S. Frācesca Romana . The Temple of peace . The Church of S. Cosmo & Damiano . S. Lorenzo in Miranda . Messia in vita M. Aurelij : and Sabellic lib. 4. c. 11. S. Adriano . The Triumphal Arch of Seuerus . S. Iosephs The Tullianum . The Comitium . The Capitol . Rupes Tarpeia . The Equestris statua of Marcus Aurelius . The trophies of Marius . The Milliarium , The Conseruatorio . Colonna Rostrata . M. Aurelius his Triumph Leges Decem Tabularum . Tertul. de Corona Milit. Seneca l. 1. de Benefi . c. 13. Ara Caeli . The Iesuits Church . S. Marks Pallace . Colonna Traiana The Pallace of Aldobrandini . The pallace of Mazzarini . The Popes stables . Monte Cauallo . The Popes Sommer Pallace . S. Syluesters Church . S. Agathas Church . S. Peters ad Vincola . Baron . an . 680. S. Martino in Monte. S. Praxedes . The pillar at which our Sauiour was whipped . Santa Maria Maggiore The Chappel of Sixtus V. S. Hieromes tombe The holy Crib of our Sauiour . The Chappel of Paulus V. A Picture of our B. Lady made by S. Luke . Theodor. Lector in initio Collectaneorum . SS . Vito & Modesto . The Arch of Galienus . S. Eusebio ▪ Santa Croce in Hierusalem . See Baronius in his Annals . S. Bibiana . S. Laurence his Church . S. Antonio . S. Pudentiana . Baronius ad an : 44. S. Laurenzo in Panisperna . S. Vitalis See Plutarke . Quatro Fontane . Santa Maria della Vittoria . The Garden of Montalto The Bathes of Diocletian . The Popes Graneries The Church of S. Agnes . Burghesis Villa . Madonna del Populo . The Greek Colledge . The Villa of the great Duke . Villa Ludouisia . The first house The second house . A petrifyed man. Ortelius in Tab. Geograph Russiae . Aristot lib. de An. c. 50. The Capucins Palazzo Barberino S. Jldefonso . The least Church in Rome . The Church of Trinità di Monte Piazza di Spagna Collegiode Propaganda fede . Fontana de Treui . The Maronites Colledge . SS . Apostoli . The Corso Some Pallaces in the Corso . The Pallace of Pamfilio . Santa Maria in Via Lata . S. Marcello . S. Carlo in Corso . S. Jacomo de gl'Incurabili . The Conuent of the repented whores . Objection . Answer . Obiect . Answ . Fenton in his treatis of vsury l. 2. c. 9. Matth. 19.8 . Obiect . Answ . Petrus a S. Romualdo in his Cronologicall Treasur . Obiect . Answ . Tacit. annal . 2. Obiect . Answ . Obiect . Answ . Seneca . In c. 8. l. 1. Reg. Obiect . Answ . Luke 9. S. Tho. 2.2 . q. 10. art . 11. in corpore . S. Syluestro in Capite . Colonna Antonina . The Seauen hills of Rome . Mons Capitolinus Palatinus Auentinus Coelius . Esquilinus . Viminalis Quirinalia . Ianiculus . Vaticanus Pincius or Hortuorū . The Pazzorella . The Roman Colledge . Kerkerius his gallery . La Minerua . Sant Andrea della Valle. Pietro della Valle . Caualier . Pozzo . The Pallace of Matthei . The Cancellaria . San Lorenzo in Damaso . The Pallace of Farnese . The statue of Alexander Farnesi . The famous Bull. Ponte Sisto . The Hospital of the holy Trinity . S. Girolamo della Charita . The English Colledge . The Chiesa Nuona . Cardinal Caesar Baronius . The Oratory . La Pace . Pasquin . S. Pantaeleon . Piazza Nauona . The Church of S. Agnes , The Palazzo Pamphilio . S. Iacomo The Sapienza . S. Lewis . The Pallace of Iustiniani Cassiod . l. 7. S. Eustachio . The Rotonda or Pantheo● S. Lorenzo in Lucina . The Pallace of Burghesi . Mausoleum Augusti . Sueton. S. Ant. di Padua . S. Augustino . Bibliotheca Angelica . Ioachims Prophecie of the Turks . S. Apollinaris . The German Colledge . The Pallozzo d'Altemps . S. John Florentins Church . Tertull. Lib. de Spectac . c. 10. Petrarc . In Remed . vtriusq . Fort. Deuotion in Rome . The musick of Rome . The Ceremonies . The Shows of Rome . Sacred . Prophane The Gouerment of Rome . That of the Citie . That of the Church . The Inhabitants of Rome . Euseb . in Chronico . Cassiod . Epist . Rome a fine place to liue in . And a fine place to dye in . My iourney from Rome to Naples . Marino . Veletri . Tre Taberne . Peperno . Fossa N●ona ▪ Taracina Amiclae . Seru. in lib. 10. Aeneid . Amyclas silentium perdidit . Prouerb . apud S. Hieron . Fundi . Leo Afer ▪ The Via Appia . See Plutarch in Graccho . Procop. l. 1. d● bell . Goth Mola . Formiae . Val. Max. l. 1. c. 4. Caëta . The Bp. of Belley in his historyes . Bourbons Body . The Clouen Rock . Ciceros Grotte . The Ferry of Carigliano . Minturna . Plutark . Campania Foelix Capua . See S. Aug. c. 2. de morib . Eccles . And S. Thom. 2.2 . qu. 64. art . 5. Auersa . Naples . Petr. a S. Roma aldo in his Cronolog . Treasor . The Kingdome of Naples . It s importance to Spayne . It s Greatnesse . It s strenth The towne of Naples . The Churches of Naples Baronius . & Breuiarium Rom. Petrus a S. Romualdo in his Treasor Cronolog . ad an . 1604. The Annunciata . S. Paul● . The Iesuits Church . S. Maria No● The Dominicans Church . The Oliuetan The stately Monastery of the Carthusians . Barclay . Icon Animorum . Castle S. Elmo . Castel Vouo . Castel Nouo . The Markets . an . 1647 The Academies of wits . Learned men . The Moūtain Vesuuius . See Bakers Cronicle in Henric. ● Hells Chimneys Our iourney to Puzzuolo . Sannazarius his tombe . Virgils tombe . The Grotte of Pausilipo . Grotta del Cane . The stones of S. Gennaro . The Capucins . The Sulphatara . Puzzuolo . Pliny , and Vitrunius Baiae . Mercato di Sabato . The Elizian Fields . Piscina Mirabili . Promont : Miseni . Mare mortuum . Cento Camerelle . Agrippinas Tombe Ciceros bathes . The Bathes of Tritola . Lacus Auernus . The Grotte of Sibylla Cumaea . Tertull. Monte Nuouo . The History of Naples . Take heed of the Gabellers of Fundi . Albano . Castel Gandulfo . Frescati . The Villa Aldobrandina . Beluedere The Cascata . The Girandola . The Centaure . Pan. The Lyon and the Leopard . The Hall of Apollo . The water Organ . A terrible wetting place . Villa Ludouisia . Montedragone . Tiuoli . Old Tybur The Cascata . Villa d'Esté . Via Flaminia . Ponte Molo . Tiber. Narni . Terni . Spoleto . Plato l. 12 de Legib . The Valley of Spoleto . Foligni . Assisium . Montefalco . Tolentino . Macerata . Recanata Loreto . See Turselinus his history of the House of Loreto . The Holy House of Loreto . The Treasory . * In his hist . of Loreto l. 3. c. 25. The Apothecaries shop . Ancona . Senegallia . Fano . Pesaro . Catholica . Rimini . Cesena . Forli . Rubicon . Faenza . Plin. l. 18. c. 26. Arist . l. 1. de partib . animal . c. 3. Ferrara . The Rarities . The Di●mant Pallace . Ariosto Tombe . The Acadimy of wits . The Learned men . The history . Ruigo . Adria . La Laguna . The origin of Venice . Est-elle belle ? Est elle grande ? Est elle riche ? Quelle aige a elle ? Venice now . The Gondolas . Bridges in Venice . The Rialto . The Gourement . The Great Counsel . The Dogè . Procuratori di San Marco . Their Strength . Loschi in Compendi● Histor . Palma Noua . Their Riches . Their Religion . Their Interest . The noble men of Venice . The noble women of Venice● S. Marks Church . Baronius , an . 1190. The Treasory of S. Mark. The Spiritual Treasor . The Temporal Treasure . The Dogès Pallace . The little Arsenal . Sabellicus ●ec . 2 l. 1. The Piazza of S. Mark. The High steeple . The Arsenal . The Assensa . The Corso at Murano . The Fayre S. Georges . The Pallace of Signore Nani . The Capucins . Madonna di Salute . La Carita . Ss. Giouanne & Paulo . S. Saluatore . S. Chrysostome . The Domo . S. Iacomo . The Greeks Church . The Iewes Synagogue The Glasse houses at murano . The shops . The Pallaces . The Learned Men. The Academy of wits . The Historians . The Defects of Venice . Padua ▪ Antenors Tombe . S. Antonies Church . S. Iustinas Church & Monastery . The great Hall. S. Augustino . L'Arena . S. Dominico . S. Francesco . S. Thomaso di Cantuaria . The Academies of wits . The learned Men. The Historians . Vicenza . The Theater . The Academy of ●its . The Histo●ians . Verona . The Amphitheater ▪ The Academy of wits . The learnmened . The Historians . Peschiera . Lago di Garda . Disenzano Brescia . The History . Crema . Bergamo . Mantua . Valer . Maxim . l. 2. c. 1. The Dukes Family . His Reuenues . His Interest . Casal . His strenth . it s Learned Mem. It s History . Mirandola Franciscus Pius . Leander Albatus . Io Picus Miranduilanus .