A new journal of Italy containing what is most remarkable of the antiquities of Rome, Savoy and Naples : with observations made upon the strength, beauty and scituation [sic] of some other towns and forts in by William Acton.
         Acton, William.
      
       
         
           1691
        
      
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             A new journal of Italy containing what is most remarkable of the antiquities of Rome, Savoy and Naples : with observations made upon the strength, beauty and scituation [sic] of some other towns and forts in by William Acton.
             Acton, William.
          
           [5], 78 p.
           
             Printed for R. Baldwin,
             London :
             1691.
          
           
             Reproduction of original in the British Library.
          
        
      
    
     
       
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         eng
      
       
         
           Italy -- Description and travel.
           Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800.
           Italy -- Antiquities.
        
      
    
     
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           A
           New
           JOURNAL
           OF
           ITALY
           ,
           Containing
           What
           is
           Most
           Remarkable
           OF
           THE
           ANTIQUITIES
           OF
           
             ROME
             ,
             SAVOY
          
           AND
           NAPLES
           .
           WITH
           OBSERVATIONS
           Made
           upon
           the
           Strength
           ,
           Beauty
           ,
           and
           Scituation
           of
           some
           other
           Towns
           and
           Forts
           in
           Italy
           ,
           and
           the
           Distance
           from
           Place
           to
           Place
           ;
           Together
           with
           the
           best
           Painting
           ,
           Carving
           ,
           and
           Limning
           ,
           and
           some
           other
           both
           Natural
           and
           Artificial
           Curiosities
           taken
           notice
           of
           ,
        
         
           By
           William
           Acton
           .
        
         
           LONDON
           ,
           Printed
           for
           
             R.
             Baldwin
          
           ,
           near
           the
           
             Oxford
             Arms
          
           in
           Warwick-Lane
           .
           1691.
           
        
      
       
         
         
           
           TO
           My
           Worthy
           and
           Most
           Respected
           Friend
           and
           Master
           
             EDWARD
             HARVEY
          
           ,
           OF
           
             Comb
             Nevil
          
           in
           the
           County
           of
           Surry
           ,
           Esquire
           .
        
         
           
             Worthy
             Sir
             ,
          
        
         
           AS
           I
           had
           the
           honour
           to
           wait
           up-you
           in
           your
           Travels
           to
           Rome
           ,
           so
           I
           had
           the
           oppotunity
           of
           making
           some
           Remarks
           in
           our
           way
           thither
           ,
           and
           from
           thence
           to
           Naples
           ;
           where
           the
           Antiquities
           are
           not
           less
           curious
           than
           what
           you
           saw
           in
           Rome
           it self
           ;
           which
           I
           here
           humbly
           present
           
           you
           with
           a
           review
           of
           in
           a
           piece
           of
           prospective
           :
           Which
           ,
           though
           it
           be
           done
           by
           an
           ill
           hand
           ,
           yet
           it
           may
           help
           to
           Commemorate
           to
           you
           most
           of
           the
           Remarkable
           Things
           you
           took
           notice
           of
           when
           you
           was
           there
           .
           I
           had
           not
           room
           in
           this
           small
           Tract
           to
           mention
           any
           thing
           of
           Politicks
           ,
           or
           Constitution
           of
           Governments
           in
           any
           of
           these
           Princes
           Courts
           or
           Republicks
           that
           we
           passed
           through
           ,
           having
           no
           design
           at
           present
           but
           to
           point
           out
           to
           you
           the
           way
           you
           Travelled
           ,
           and
           the
           Distance
           from
           Place
           to
           Place
           ,
           with
           Observations
           made
           of
           the
           Antiquities
           of
           
             Rome
             ,
             Naples
          
           ,
           and
           other
           Places
           ;
           together
           with
           the
           Strength
           ,
           Beauty
           and
           Scituation
           of
           some
           other
           Towns
           and
           Forts
           in
           Italy
           ;
           the
           best
           Painting
           ,
           Carving
           ,
           and
           Limning
           ,
           and
           some
           other
           both
           Natural
           and
           Artificial
           Curiosities
           ,
           which
           you
           your self
           took
           such
           particular
           Notice
           of
           ,
           that
           they
           cannot
           but
           remain
           still
           fresh
           in
           your
           Memory
           :
           However
           I
           have
           made
           bold
           to
           present
           you
           with
           this
           Poor
           Assistance
           ,
           which
           may
           
           serve
           instead
           of
           a
           Lame
           Antiquary
           ,
           if
           peradventure
           you
           should
           meet
           with
           any
           private
           Inducement
           ,
           or
           Obligation
           of
           Publick
           Trust
           ,
           to
           carry
           you
           again
           into
           those
           Parts
           .
           Sir
           ,
           you
           will
           meet
           with
           neither
           Polishing
           nor
           Trimming
           in
           it
           ,
           but
           the
           same
           Plain
           Dress
           it
           had
           on
           when
           you
           saw
           it
           first
           ,
           which
           I
           humbly
           beg
           of
           you
           to
           take
           a
           review
           of
           ,
           and
           to
           give
           me
           the
           Assistance
           of
           your
           Memory
           whereinsoever
           you
           shall
           find
           me
           deficient
           ;
           And
           in
           so
           doing
           you
           will
           add
           to
           your
           Former
           Obligations
           a
           Remarkable
           Favour
           never
           to
           to
           be
           forgot
           by
           ,
        
         
           
             Sir
             ,
          
           
             Your
             Most
             Sincere
             ,
             and
             Most
             Faithful
             Servant
             ,
             W.
             A.
             
          
        
      
    
     
       
         
         
           
           A
           
             New
             JOVRNAL
          
           FROM
           GENEVE
           TO
           ROME
           And
           from
           thence
           to
           NAPLES
           .
        
         
           SIR
           ,
           You
           may
           well
           remember
           when
           you
           left
           England
           and
           went
           to
           Paris
           in
           France
           ,
           there
           to
           carry
           on
           that
           Noble
           Education
           you
           Commenced
           at
           home
           ,
           you
           entred
           your self
           in
           one
           of
           the
           best
           Academies
           ,
           and
           there
           continued
           near
           Two
           Years
           and
           an
           Half
           ;
           
           from
           whence
           ,
           after
           a
           more
           than
           ordinary
           Improvement
           in
           the
           Liberal
           Arts
           and
           Sciences
           ,
           and
           other
           the
           Studies
           and
           Exercises
           of
           that
           Place
           ;
           your
           Genius
           led
           you
           to
           make
           a
           farther
           Progress
           in
           your
           Travels
           ;
           And
           then
           you
           left
           Paris
           ,
           and
           set
           forward
           by
           the
           way
           of
           Lyons
           for
           Geneve
           ,
           where
           after
           you
           had
           passed
           some
           time
           you
           resolved
           to
           go
           for
           Italy
           ;
           so
           that
           taking
           your
           leave
           of
           Geneve
           ,
           you
           came
           to
           a
           little
           Town
           called
           Remille
           in
           Savoy
           ,
           seven
           Leagues
           from
           Geneve
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           the
           first
           night
           ;
           within
           three
           Leagues
           of
           this
           Town
           lies
           the
           Lake
           of
           Ansi
           and
           Town
           so
           called
           .
           The
           18
           th
           .
           we
           came
           to
           Chambery
           ,
           five
           leagues
           from
           Romillie
           ;
           it
           is
           the
           Principal
           Town
           in
           Savoy
           ,
           and
           where
           the
           Duke
           of
           Savoy
           formerly
           kept
           his
           Court
           ,
           where
           we
           staid
           Dinner
           ,
           and
           the
           same
           night
           lay
           at
           Montmillian
           ,
           two
           leagues
           from
           Chambery
           ,
           where
           we
           took
           notice
           of
           the
           Fortress
           or
           Castle
           of
           Montmillian
           ,
           
           It
           is
           partly
           built
           upon
           ,
           and
           partly
           hewed
           out
           of
           a
           Rock
           ,
           esteemed
           the
           strongest
           that
           belongs
           to
           the
           Duke
           of
           
             Savoy
             .
             Lewis
          
           the
           13
           th
           ,
           King
           of
           France
           ,
           lay
           13
           months
           before
           it
           ,
           in
           which
           time
           (
           from
           three
           Batteries
           ,
           whereof
           one
           was
           on
           the
           further
           side
           of
           the
           River
           Isere
           ,
           the
           other
           two
           on
           this
           side
           )
           he
           shot
           into
           the
           Fort
           above
           Ten
           Thousand
           Cannon
           Bullets
           ,
           and
           sprang
           Two
           Mines
           ,
           all
           which
           not
           answering
           his
           Expectations
           ,
           and
           finding
           himself
           unable
           to
           take
           it
           ,
           although
           he
           had
           taken
           the
           Town
           that
           joyns
           to
           the
           Fort
           ,
           concludes
           a
           Peace
           and
           raises
           the
           Seige
           .
           From
           Montmillian
           we
           came
           to
           St.
           Michel
           ,
           thirteen
           leagues
           all
           along
           upon
           the
           River
           Isere
           ,
           or
           rather
           Arche
           ,
           because
           it
           only
           bears
           the
           name
           of
           Isere
           near
           to
           Montmillian
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           the
           29
           th
           .
        
         
           The
           Thirtieth
           we
           came
           to
           dinner
           to
           Breamant
           ,
           five
           Leagues
           more
           ,
           and
           from
           thence
           to
           Landbourg
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           that
           night
           ,
           being
           
           two
           leagues
           from
           Bramont
           ,
           still
           upon
           the
           River
           Are.
           
        
         
           Oct.
           1.
           we
           hired
           Mules
           to
           carry
           us
           up
           the
           Alps
           by
           the
           way
           of
           Mount
           Senis
           ,
           and
           came
           to
           Ramasse
           being
           one
           league
           ,
           from
           thence
           to
           the
           great
           Cross
           two
           leagues
           more
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           highest
           part
           of
           the
           Mountain
           that
           you
           go
           over
           ,
           from
           whence
           we
           came
           to
           Bossoline
           to
           dinner
           ,
           which
           is
           about
           12
           miles
           more
           ,
           from
           thence
           to
           Villiane
           eight
           miles
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           that
           night
           .
           And
           the
           2d
           ▪
           of
           Oct.
           we
           came
           to
           Turin
           ,
           being
           about
           ten
           or
           twelve
           miles
           from
           Villiane
           .
        
         
           At
           Turin
           we
           saw
           the
           Duke
           and
           Dutchess
           of
           Savoy
           ,
           and
           the
           Princess
           his
           Sister
           ,
           that
           shoots
           flying
           so
           well
           ;
           we
           took
           a
           view
           of
           the
           Dukes
           Lodgings
           ,
           and
           the
           fine
           Gallery
           of
           Pictures
           ,
           the
           black
           marble
           Chappel
           that
           had
           been
           so
           many
           years
           a
           building
           ,
           and
           not
           finished
           when
           we
           saw
           it
           ,
           is
           one
           of
           the
           finest
           things
           in
           Turin
           ;
           we
           saw
           the
           Church
           where
           they
           
           say
           is
           kept
           the
           winding
           Sheet
           of
           our
           Saviour
           Christ
           ,
           besides
           several
           other
           fine
           Churches
           :
           Especially
           that
           of
           St.
           Francis
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           a
           most
           noble
           Altar
           .
           One
           of
           the
           seven
           days
           we
           stayed
           here
           ,
           I
           hapned
           ,
           in
           my
           ramble
           about
           the
           Town
           to
           go
           into
           a
           Church
           ,
           where
           I
           heard
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           good
           singing
           by
           Eunuchs
           ,
           and
           very
           good
           musick
           ;
           which
           being
           ended
           ,
           I
           found
           by
           the
           Peoples
           gazing
           and
           staring
           ,
           earnestly
           to
           one
           part
           of
           the
           Church
           ,
           that
           there
           was
           something
           more
           to
           come
           ,
           which
           was
           as
           follows
           ;
           from
           a
           corner
           of
           the
           Church
           ,
           out
           of
           some
           Chappel
           ,
           or
           Vestry
           ,
           there
           came
           a
           great
           many
           people
           with
           great
           wax
           lights
           in
           their
           hands
           ,
           after
           them
           followed
           one
           of
           the
           religious
           men
           of
           that
           place
           ,
           with
           a
           great
           silver
           Cross
           ,
           then
           followed
           all
           the
           rest
           of
           the
           religious
           men
           singing
           ,
           after
           them
           came
           four
           Trumpets
           sounding
           ,
           then
           the
           Image
           of
           the
           V.
           Mary
           followed
           ,
           being
           carried
           upon
           a
           frame
           by
           four
           lusty
           Fellows
           ,
           
           like
           Porters
           ,
           in
           blue
           Frocks
           :
           The
           figure
           was
           about
           the
           bigness
           of
           an
           ordinary
           woman
           ,
           carved
           out
           of
           wood
           ,
           and
           very
           richly
           dressed
           ,
           painted
           and
           curled
           ;
           wearing
           uppermost
           a
           long
           Robe
           of
           Cloth
           of
           Silver
           ,
           with
           a
           Crown
           on
           her
           head
           ;
           in
           her
           arms
           she
           carried
           a
           little
           Image
           ,
           well
           carved
           and
           finely
           dressed
           ,
           like
           a
           little
           boy
           ,
           which
           represented
           the
           Saviour
           ,
           holding
           between
           his
           hands
           a
           pair
           of
           Beads
           ;
           as
           this
           Image
           passed
           through
           the
           middle
           alley
           of
           the
           Church
           ,
           all
           the
           people
           that
           could
           come
           near
           it
           touched
           it
           with
           their
           Beads
           ,
           and
           those
           that
           could
           not
           come
           near
           ,
           by
           reason
           of
           the
           press
           ,
           handed
           their
           Beads
           from
           one
           to
           another
           that
           they
           might
           touch
           her
           Garment
           ,
           from
           whence
           undoubtedly
           they
           did
           believe
           ,
           proceeded
           great
           Virtue
           :
           After
           they
           came
           out
           of
           the
           Church
           it
           was
           carried
           in
           Procession
           through
           part
           of
           the
           City
           ,
           the
           Trumpets
           sounding
           before
           ,
           and
           all
           people
           meeting
           it
           ,
           or
           going
           with
           it
           ,
           by
           
           kneeling
           ,
           bowing
           and
           crossing
           themselves
           ,
           paid
           an
           adoration
           to
           it
           ;
           to
           my
           great
           Astonishment
           .
        
         
           About
           five
           miles
           from
           Turin
           there
           is
           a
           house
           of
           the
           Duke
           of
           Savoys
           ,
           called
           the
           Venere
           ,
           very
           curious
           for
           Painting
           ,
           Pictures
           and
           Waterworks
           ;
           in
           the
           Gardens
           there
           is
           several
           sort
           of
           Fowl
           ,
           worth
           taking
           notice
           of
           .
        
         
           About
           a
           mile
           from
           Turin
           ,
           upon
           the
           side
           of
           a
           Hill
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           fine
           Convent
           of
           Capusin
           Friers
           ;
           and
           a
           fine
           house
           called
           the
           Valentine
           ,
           about
           half
           a
           mile
           from
           Turin
           ,
           upon
           the
           River
           Po
           :
           It
           was
           built
           by
           Madam
           Royall
           ,
           the
           Duke
           of
           Savoys
           Mother
           ,
           and
           Sister
           to
           Lewis
           XIII
           .
           King
           of
           France
           .
        
         
           The
           new
           Fortifications
           that
           the
           Duke
           is
           making
           about
           Turin
           ,
           being
           all
           of
           Brick
           ,
           consisting
           only
           of
           Bastions
           and
           Curtains
           ,
           are
           worth
           your
           observation
           .
        
         
           The
           9
           th
           .
           of
           Oct.
           we
           left
           Turin
           ,
           and
           went
           to
           Villeneufe
           ,
           a
           little
           Garrison
           of
           Fourscore
           men
           ,
           ten
           miles
           from
           
           Turin
           ,
           where
           we
           dined
           .
           The
           Garrison
           observing
           us
           to
           be
           ten
           or
           twelve
           Horsemen
           in
           company
           ,
           would
           not
           let
           above
           two
           at
           a
           time
           come
           into
           the
           Town
           .
           From
           this
           town
           we
           went
           to
           Aste
           ten
           miles
           more
           ,
           it
           being
           the
           last
           town
           that
           way
           belonging
           to
           the
           Duke
           of
           Savoy
           ,
           in
           Piedmont
           ;
           it
           is
           indifferently
           well
           fortified
           ,
           and
           hath
           four
           Regiments
           of
           Souldiers
           in
           it
           .
        
         
           From
           Aste
           we
           came
           the
           11
           
             th
             ▪
          
           of
           Oct.
           to
           Alexandria
           ,
           a
           great
           Garrison
           of
           the
           King
           of
           Spain
           in
           Milonoise
           ,
           twenty
           miles
           from
           Aste
           ,
           from
           whence
           the
           same
           night
           we
           arrived
           at
           Voltaggio
           ,
           two
           and
           twenty
           miles
           more
           ,
           where
           we
           were
           forced
           by
           tempestuous
           weather
           ,
           of
           Rain
           ,
           Wind
           ,
           Thunder
           and
           Hail
           ;
           which
           did
           considerable
           damage
           in
           those
           parts
           ,
           to
           stay
           till
           the
           13
           th
           ,
           and
           then
           set
           out
           for
           Genoua
           ,
           where
           we
           arrived
           that
           night
           ,
           being
           twenty
           miles
           from
           Voltaggio
           .
        
         
           In
           Genoua
           we
           saw
           a
           great
           many
           Churches
           ,
           very
           rich
           ,
           and
           their
           
           structures
           very
           noble
           ,
           being
           most
           of
           them
           within
           side
           crusted
           with
           Marble
           ,
           and
           Marble
           Pillars
           ;
           we
           saw
           several
           Noblemens
           Pallaces
           ,
           but
           in
           particular
           ,
           that
           of
           Seignior
           Dalbi
           ,
           where
           amongst
           other
           fine
           things
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           Looking-glass
           valued
           at
           sixty
           thousand
           Crowns
           ;
           we
           saw
           the
           Doge
           ,
           and
           his
           Pallace
           ,
           with
           the
           Armory
           ,
           and
           what
           else
           was
           most
           considerable
           .
        
         
           Tuesday
           the
           16
           th
           .
           we
           went
           from
           Genoua
           by
           Sea
           ,
           in
           Barks
           ,
           small
           Vessels
           so
           called
           ,
           that
           row
           with
           four
           Oars
           ;
           and
           lay
           the
           first
           night
           at
           a
           place
           on
           the
           Sea
           shore
           called
           Ceste
           ,
           being
           thirty
           miles
           .
           The
           17
           th
           .
           we
           took
           our
           Barks
           again
           ,
           and
           went
           by
           Sea
           to
           Lerish
           ,
           thirty
           Miles
           more
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           the
           next
           day
           ,
           the
           weather
           being
           bad
           at
           Sea
           we
           quitted
           our
           Vessels
           ,
           and
           hired
           Horses
           ;
           and
           the
           first
           night
           lay
           at
           
             Santa
             Pietra
          
           ,
           twenty
           Miles
           ,
           and
           thence
           to
           Luca
           sixteen
           Miles
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           Friday
           the
           19
           th
           .
           and
           saw
           several
           fine
           
           Churches
           ,
           in
           particular
           ,
           that
           of
           St.
           Frediano
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Coffin
           that
           Richard
           the
           Third
           ,
           King
           of
           England
           was
           buried
           in
           as
           he
           went
           a
           Pilgrim
           to
           Rome
           .
           In
           St.
           Augustins
           Church
           they
           shewed
           us
           a
           place
           ,
           where
           a
           fellow
           having
           lost
           all
           his
           money
           at
           Cards
           ,
           and
           afterwards
           having
           play'd
           away
           all
           the
           Cloaths
           he
           had
           from
           his
           back
           ,
           in
           a
           great
           rage
           began
           to
           curse
           and
           to
           swear
           ,
           and
           taking
           up
           a
           Stone
           ,
           in
           that
           mad
           fit
           threw
           it
           against
           the
           Image
           of
           the
           Virgin
           Mary
           ,
           from
           whence
           immediately
           the
           blood
           gushed
           out
           ,
           upon
           which
           the
           ground
           opened
           and
           swallowed
           him
           up
           alive
           .
           This
           story
           they
           report
           to
           you
           for
           a
           great
           truth
           .
           In
           another
           Church
           they
           pretend
           to
           shew
           you
           the
           first
           Cross
           or
           Crucifix
           that
           ever
           was
           made
           after
           the
           Crucifixion
           of
           our
           Saviour
           ,
           and
           tell
           you
           the
           Story
           thus
           ,
           that
           Nicodemus
           having
           undertaken
           the
           business
           ,
           and
           shaping
           his
           work
           in
           figure
           like
           to
           a
           man
           ,
           had
           finished
           the
           Crucifix
           save
           
           only
           the
           Head
           ,
           which
           so
           puzzled
           him
           ,
           that
           he
           was
           not
           able
           to
           go
           forward
           with
           it
           :
           In
           the
           mean
           time
           ,
           being
           wearied
           with
           contriving
           that
           part
           of
           it
           ,
           but
           without
           success
           ,
           fell
           asleep
           ,
           and
           after
           some
           time
           being
           awakened
           from
           sleep
           ,
           he
           found
           a
           Head
           by
           him
           sent
           from
           Heaven
           ,
           which
           he
           fixed
           to
           the
           rest
           of
           his
           work
           ,
           and
           so
           finished
           the
           Crucifix
           ▪
           It
           is
           all
           beset
           with
           Pearls
           ,
           Diamonds
           ,
           and
           other
           Precious
           Stones
           ,
           wonderful
           rich
           :
           We
           saw
           the
           Armory
           ,
           where
           they
           say
           is
           Arms
           sufficient
           for
           twenty
           five
           thousand
           men
           .
           The
           fortifications
           of
           the
           Town
           ,
           which
           is
           very
           strong
           ,
           consists
           of
           eleven
           Bastions
           ,
           a
           Lorillion
           or
           ear-fashion
           ,
           with
           Half-moons
           upon
           the
           Curtins
           :
           there
           is
           planted
           upon
           every
           Bastion
           sixteen
           pieces
           of
           Cannon
           .
        
         
           The
           20th
           of
           October
           we
           went
           from
           Luca
           to
           Pisa
           ,
           ten
           miles
           ,
           where
           we
           dined
           :
           We
           saw
           there
           the
           Dome
           or
           Cathedral
           Church
           ,
           of
           which
           the
           
           four
           great
           doors
           are
           all
           of
           Copper
           ,
           containing
           the
           History
           of
           the
           four
           Evangelists
           ,
           represented
           by
           Figures
           ;
           hard
           by
           this
           Church
           ,
           we
           saw
           in
           a
           kind
           of
           Tower
           ,
           or
           such
           like
           place
           ,
           where
           all
           the
           Children
           are
           baptized
           ,
           and
           where
           there
           is
           the
           finest
           Echo
           that
           ever
           was
           heard
           ,
           and
           in
           it
           a
           Pulpit
           of
           Marble
           that
           came
           from
           Armenia
           ,
           so
           finely
           carved
           that
           the
           value
           of
           it
           is
           inestimable
           .
           Hard
           by
           this
           you
           see
           the
           Leaning
           Tower
           ,
           so
           built
           ,
           to
           the
           admiration
           of
           all
           that
           see
           it
           ,
           for
           it
           hangs
           over
           so
           much
           ,
           that
           one
           would
           think
           it
           must
           needs
           sall
           ,
           and
           yet
           it
           is
           believed
           to
           stand
           as
           strong
           as
           if
           it
           had
           been
           built
           upright
           ;
           so
           great
           was
           the
           Ingenuity
           of
           the
           Architect
           .
           Near
           the
           great
           Church
           are
           the
           Cloysters
           to
           be
           seen
           ,
           where
           upon
           the
           walls
           is
           painted
           the
           History
           of
           the
           Bible
           :
           And
           in
           the
           middle
           of
           the
           Cloysters
           ,
           upon
           the
           right
           and
           left
           hand
           ,
           there
           are
           two
           little
           square
           Courts
           ,
           all
           of
           holy
           Earth
           ,
           they
           say
           brought
           from
           Jerusalem
           ,
           
           wherein
           if
           you
           interr
           a
           body
           ,
           all
           shall
           consume
           to
           the
           Bones
           in
           four
           and
           twenty
           hours
           time
           .
        
         
           From
           Pisa
           the
           same
           day
           we
           went
           to
           Leghorne
           ,
           where
           the
           only
           thing
           worth
           taking
           notice
           of
           is
           the
           Mould
           ,
           where
           the
           Shipping
           rides
           safe
           :
           The
           Town
           is
           fortified
           with
           Bastions
           and
           large
           Ditches
           .
           We
           went
           out
           of
           curiosity
           and
           saw
           the
           Jews
           Synagogue
           in
           the
           time
           of
           their
           Devotions
           .
        
         
           Tuesday
           the
           23d
           of
           October
           we
           went
           from
           Leghorne
           and
           came
           again
           to
           Pisa
           ,
           where
           we
           dined
           ,
           and
           after
           dinner
           went
           and
           saw
           the
           Physick-garden
           of
           the
           Great
           Duke
           of
           Florence
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           a
           Gallery
           furnished
           with
           abundance
           of
           Curiosities
           ;
           whereof
           one
           that
           I
           took
           notice
           of
           was
           the
           Scull
           of
           a
           Man
           or
           Woman
           ,
           with
           a
           great
           piece
           of
           Coral
           growing
           to
           it
           ;
           and
           also
           a
           small
           Anchor
           with
           several
           pieces
           of
           Coral
           naturally
           fixed
           to
           it
           ;
           both
           which
           things
           were
           so
           found
           in
           the
           Sea.
           We
           went
           the
           same
           night
           to
           
             la
             Scala
          
           ,
           
           a
           great
           Inn
           so
           called
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           ,
           being
           thirty
           six
           miles
           from
           Leghorne
           ,
           and
           half
           way
           between
           Pisa
           and
           Florence
           .
        
         
           The
           next
           day
           being
           the
           24th
           of
           October
           ,
           we
           arriv'd
           at
           Florence
           ,
           20
           miles
           from
           
             la
             Scala
          
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Chappel
           of
           St.
           Laurence
           ,
           esteemed
           the
           finest
           of
           the
           whole
           World
           ,
           for
           the
           inside
           of
           it
           is
           all
           Precious
           Stones
           ,
           and
           the
           Arms
           of
           every
           City
           belonging
           to
           the
           Great
           Duke
           are
           all
           of
           Precious
           stone
           inlaid
           ,
           round
           about
           the
           Chappel
           ;
           within
           side
           there
           is
           likewise
           the
           Statues
           of
           all
           the
           great
           Dukes
           cut
           out
           in
           marble
           .
           First
           Francis
           ,
           then
           Cosmus
           the
           I.
           and
           Ferdinandus
           I.
           Cosmus
           II.
           Ferdinandus
           II.
           and
           Cosmus
           at
           present
           ,
           Third
           of
           the
           name
           ,
           and
           Sixth
           great
           Duke
           .
           From
           this
           Chappel
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Dome
           or
           Cathedral
           Church
           ,
           with
           the
           Tower
           by
           it
           ,
           whereof
           all
           the
           outside
           is
           finely
           wrought
           with
           Marble
           of
           divers
           Colours
           ;
           we
           saw
           the
           great
           Dukes
           Pallace
           
           and
           Gardens
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           a
           great
           many
           fine
           Waterworks
           :
           The
           finest
           thing
           in
           Florence
           is
           the
           Gallery
           of
           rich
           Cabinets
           ,
           and
           the
           Chamber
           where
           there
           is
           all
           sort
           of
           curious
           Arms
           ;
           there
           is
           a
           long
           barrel
           of
           a
           Gun
           all
           of
           massy
           Gold
           ,
           and
           several
           other
           great
           curiosities
           ;
           we
           saw
           the
           Dukes
           Armory
           ,
           the
           wild
           Beasts
           ,
           and
           some
           fine
           houses
           out
           of
           Town
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           fine
           Painting
           and
           Waterworks
           ,
           chiefly
           in
           that
           of
           the
           great
           Dukes
           ,
           called
           Pratilin
           ,
           six
           Miles
           from
           Florence
           ,
           we
           saw
           besides
           abundance
           of
           fine
           Churches
           .
        
         
           November
           the
           First
           we
           went
           from
           Florence
           to
           Pongebouce
           22
           miles
           where
           we
           lay
           .
           The
           next
           day
           we
           came
           to
           Dinner
           to
           Siena
           ,
           16
           miles
           :
           It
           is
           a
           Town
           belonging
           to
           the
           Great
           Duke
           ,
           almost
           as
           big
           as
           Florence
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Great
           Church
           ,
           whereof
           the
           Pavement
           is
           the
           finest
           in
           Christendom
           ;
           and
           the
           Library
           with
           its
           Pavement
           ,
           deserves
           to
           be
           taken
           notice
           of
           :
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           
           to
           Torriniere
           18
           miles
           where
           we
           lay
           .
           The
           next
           day
           ,
           being
           the
           3
           d
           of
           November
           ,
           we
           lay
           at
           Aquapendente
           29
           miles
           ,
           from
           whence
           we
           came
           ,
           and
           dined
           ,
           the
           next
           day
           being
           Sunday
           at
           Montefiatsco
           ,
           Fifteen
           miles
           ,
           where
           in
           a
           little
           old
           Church
           ,
           under
           ground
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           Tomb
           of
           a
           German
           Bishop
           ,
           who
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           killed
           himself
           with
           drinking
           to
           excess
           the
           Wine
           of
           that
           place
           :
           The
           story
           runs
           thus
           ,
           That
           the
           Bishop
           travelling
           with
           his
           retinue
           to
           Rome
           ,
           sent
           one
           of
           his
           Servants
           before
           upon
           the
           Road
           to
           find
           out
           the
           best
           Wine
           ,
           with
           a
           strict
           Command
           to
           write
           EST
           upon
           the
           Sign
           ,
           where
           the
           Wine
           was
           best
           ;
           which
           accordingly
           he
           did
           ,
           and
           at
           the
           first
           place
           where
           he
           found
           the
           Wine
           to
           be
           good
           writ
           EST
           ,
           which
           ,
           when
           the
           Bishop
           saw
           ,
           concluding
           the
           Wine
           to
           be
           very
           good
           he
           stopped
           ,
           and
           with
           all
           his
           Company
           went
           in
           and
           remained
           there
           till
           he
           had
           had
           his
           fill
           of
           the
           Wine
           ;
           then
           
           he
           went
           forward
           ,
           his
           Servant
           the
           Purveyor
           ,
           being
           still
           before
           to
           find
           out
           the
           next
           place
           of
           good
           Wine
           ,
           which
           appeared
           to
           the
           Bishop
           before
           he
           had
           travelled
           much
           farther
           ,
           by
           a
           double
           assurance
           of
           
             EST
             ,
             EST
          
           ,
           which
           the
           Servant
           had
           marked
           upon
           the
           Sign
           ;
           There
           the
           Bishop
           stayed
           longer
           than
           he
           had
           done
           at
           the
           first
           place
           of
           EST
           ,
           finding
           the
           Wine
           to
           be
           much
           better
           .
           But
           at
           length
           ,
           in
           hopes
           to
           gratifie
           his
           Appetite
           with
           a
           more
           delicious
           Wine
           than
           what
           he
           had
           met
           with
           ,
           goes
           forward
           on
           his
           Journey
           to
           Rome
           ,
           his
           Servant
           going
           still
           before
           with
           the
           same
           Command
           of
           providing
           still
           the
           best
           Wine
           with
           the
           Old
           Signal
           of
           EST
           ;
           But
           before
           he
           had
           travelled
           far
           he
           comes
           to
           this
           fatal
           place
           of
           Montefiasco
           ,
           where
           the
           Wine
           was
           so
           much
           better
           than
           any
           he
           had
           yet
           met
           with
           in
           his
           way
           to
           Rome
           ,
           that
           he
           thought
           it
           deserved
           the
           triple
           signal
           of
           
             EST
             ,
             EST
             ,
             EST
          
           ,
           which
           accordingly
           was
           put
           upon
           
           the
           Sign
           .
           The
           Bishop
           being
           not
           far
           behind
           ,
           soon
           arrived
           at
           this
           Inchanted
           Castle
           of
           Bacchus
           ,
           where
           espying
           the
           Signal
           ,
           immediately
           made
           an
           halt
           ,
           and
           with
           all
           his
           Company
           entred
           the
           place
           ,
           where
           he
           found
           the
           entertainment
           so
           sweet
           ,
           and
           the
           Wine
           so
           bewitching
           ,
           that
           he
           was
           not
           able
           to
           leave
           the
           place
           till
           his
           life
           had
           left
           him
           ,
           and
           then
           was
           carried
           out
           dead
           to
           his
           Grave
           ,
           which
           was
           hard
           by
           in
           the
           Vault
           of
           a
           little
           Church
           ,
           with
           a
           large
           Stone
           upon
           it
           ,
           and
           this
           Epitaph
           or
           Inscription
           writ
           by
           the
           Purvoyer
           his
           man
           ,
           in
           honour
           of
           his
           Master
           .
        
         
           
             Est
             ,
             Est
             ,
             Est
             ,
             propter
             est
             ,
          
           
             Herus
             meus
             mortuus
             est
             .
          
        
         
           From
           this
           place
           we
           went
           to
           Viterbo
           ,
           eight
           miles
           more
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           ;
           it
           is
           a
           very
           pretty
           town
           ,
           and
           in
           most
           of
           the
           streets
           thereof
           there
           is
           fine
           Fountains
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           the
           next
           day
           to
           Capreole
           ,
           twelve
           
           miles
           more
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           fine
           house
           of
           the
           Duke
           of
           Parma
           ,
           but
           going
           to
           ruine
           ,
           here
           we
           dined
           and
           after
           Dinner
           went
           to
           
             Monte
             Rossa
          
           ,
           ten
           miles
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           ;
           from
           whence
           the
           next
           day
           being
           Tuesday
           the
           6th
           .
           of
           November
           ,
           we
           came
           to
           Rome
           ,
           two
           and
           twenty
           miles
           more
           .
        
         
           The
           Eighth
           of
           November
           we
           took
           our
           Jonrney
           for
           Naples
           ,
           and
           came
           the
           first
           night
           to
           Veletre
           ,
           twenty
           miles
           from
           Rome
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           fine
           Pallace
           and
           Garden
           of
           Cardinal
           Ginetto
           .
           From
           thence
           the
           next
           day
           we
           went
           to
           Piperno
           thirty
           miles
           .
           The
           next
           day
           being
           
             Saturday
             ▪
          
           the
           10th
           .
           of
           November
           we
           came
           to
           Fundi
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           better
           half
           way
           betwixt
           Rome
           and
           Naples
           .
           From
           this
           place
           we
           came
           the
           next
           day
           ,
           being
           Sunday
           ,
           to
           Mola
           :
           Where
           in
           a
           great
           Orange
           Garden
           we
           saw
           the
           Tomb
           and
           Grotto
           of
           Cicero
           ,
           that
           famous
           Orator
           .
           Hard
           by
           Mola
           lies
           Caeta
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           to
           be
           seen
           a
           Rock
           ,
           which
           they
           say
           cleft
           asunder
           at
           the
           
           time
           of
           the
           Crucifixion
           of
           our
           blessed
           Saviour
           .
           From
           Mola
           we
           came
           to
           
             St.
             Agothas
          
           ;
           and
           from
           thence
           on
           Monday
           night
           ,
           the
           12th
           instant
           ,
           we
           arrived
           at
           Naples
           ,
           which
           is
           some
           32
           miles
           from
           
             St.
             Agothas
          
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           several
           fine
           Churches
           ;
           but
           in
           that
           of
           
             St.
             Claires
          
           there
           is
           four
           fine
           Pillars
           ,
           which
           they
           do
           assert
           were
           brought
           from
           the
           Temple
           of
           Solomon
           at
           Jerusalem
           .
           At
           another
           Church
           we
           saw
           the
           Busto's
           ,
           or
           pieces
           of
           Statues
           ,
           being
           the
           remainder
           of
           two
           Idols
           called
           by
           the
           names
           of
           Castor
           and
           Pollux
           ,
           they
           were
           formerly
           entire
           ,
           and
           worshipped
           as
           Gods
           by
           the
           Heathenish
           people
           ,
           but
           St.
           Paul
           passing
           by
           that
           way
           as
           he
           was
           carried
           a
           prisoner
           to
           Rome
           ,
           it
           is
           said
           that
           these
           Idols
           fell
           down
           and
           broke
           to
           pieces
           ,
           and
           in
           their
           fall
           the
           Devil
           was
           perceived
           to
           go
           from
           them
           ;
           who
           whilst
           they
           were
           whole
           ,
           served
           them
           for
           a
           voice
           ,
           and
           did
           usually
           speak
           to
           those
           that
           worshipped
           them
           .
           The
           Heads
           of
           these
           Idols
           
           they
           say
           some
           certain
           Prince
           has
           in
           keeping
           ,
           for
           a
           great
           curiosity
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Charter-house
           ,
           a
           Convent
           of
           Religious
           men
           ;
           the
           building
           is
           very
           fine
           ,
           seated
           upon
           a
           high
           hill
           ,
           near
           the
           City
           ,
           close
           to
           the
           Castle
           of
           St.
           Elmo
           ,
           from
           whence
           you
           have
           the
           best
           sight
           of
           Naples
           ,
           and
           a
           prospect
           of
           the
           Mediterranean
           Sea
           ,
           which
           is
           believed
           to
           be
           the
           best
           in
           Europe
           .
        
         
           Upon
           Wednesday
           we
           hired
           Horses
           and
           rid
           out
           of
           Town
           ,
           passing
           through
           the
           Grotto
           of
           Pausilinus
           ,
           which
           Lassel
           in
           his
           Voyage
           of
           Italy
           makes
           mention
           of
           .
           It
           is
           near
           a
           mile
           in
           length
           ,
           cut
           ,
           or
           rather
           bored
           through
           a
           great
           Rocky
           hill
           ,
           by
           the
           Emperour
           Lucullus
           .
           It
           is
           now
           used
           as
           a
           great
           high
           way
           leading
           into
           Naples
           ;
           wherein
           two
           Coaches
           or
           Carts
           may
           meet
           and
           pass
           by
           each
           other
           easily
           ,
           though
           the
           passage
           for
           near
           three
           parts
           of
           the
           way
           be
           very
           dark
           ,
           without
           any
           light
           at
           all
           ,
           except
           the
           light
           of
           a
           small
           Lamp
           that
           
           hangs
           in
           a
           little
           Chappel
           dedicated
           to
           the
           Virgin
           Mary
           ,
           in
           the
           middle
           of
           the
           passage
           ,
           upon
           the
           right
           hand
           ,
           going
           into
           the
           City
           .
           And
           because
           there
           may
           be
           danger
           in
           meeting
           and
           running
           against
           one
           another
           in
           the
           dark
           ,
           part
           of
           the
           way
           ,
           when
           you
           hear
           any
           noise
           of
           Horse
           or
           Coach
           ,
           or
           the
           like
           ,
           which
           you
           may
           easily
           do
           at
           a
           great
           distance
           ,
           (
           for
           the
           least
           thing
           in
           that
           Concavity
           makes
           a
           great
           noise
           )
           then
           you
           use
           these
           words
           ,
           speaking
           out
           aloud
           ,
           
             (
             a
             la
             Montagna
             ,
             &
             a
             la
             Marina
             )
          
           which
           signifies
           ,
           Which
           way
           are
           you
           to
           go
           ,
           either
           to
           that
           side
           which
           is
           next
           the
           Mountain
           ,
           or
           to
           that
           next
           the
           Sea
           ?
           by
           which
           one
           avoids
           the
           disasters
           that
           might
           happen
           by
           meeting
           in
           the
           dark
           .
           From
           this
           Grotto
           ,
           or
           high
           way
           ,
           we
           came
           to
           the
           place
           called
           
             Grotto
             delcane
          
           ,
           or
           the
           Dogs
           Grotto
           :
           It
           is
           a
           little
           place
           concaved
           or
           hollowed
           in
           the
           side
           of
           a
           little
           hill
           ,
           hard
           by
           a
           Lake
           ,
           or
           great
           pond
           of
           water
           ;
           in
           which
           place
           a
           man
           
           may
           stand
           upright
           ,
           and
           go
           three
           or
           four
           steps
           in
           length
           and
           breadth
           ;
           here
           we
           had
           a
           Dog
           brought
           us
           ,
           by
           a
           man
           that
           lives
           hard
           by
           ,
           and
           that
           makes
           it
           his
           business
           for
           gain
           to
           shew
           the
           experiment
           to
           strangers
           ;
           he
           takes
           his
           Dog
           ,
           and
           holds
           down
           his
           head
           within
           a
           Foot
           of
           the
           ground
           ,
           for
           higher
           it
           is
           believed
           the
           Sulphurous
           Vapours
           do
           not
           mount
           ,
           as
           one
           may
           observe
           by
           a
           kind
           of
           green
           colour
           that
           stains
           the
           sides
           of
           the
           place
           ,
           about
           a
           foot
           high
           from
           the
           Surface
           of
           the
           ground
           ,
           and
           not
           higher
           ;
           and
           before
           you
           can
           count
           a
           hundred
           ,
           if
           you
           count
           not
           too
           fast
           ,
           the
           Dog
           begins
           to
           stagger
           and
           reel
           ,
           (
           the
           man
           then
           letting
           him
           loose
           )
           he
           soon
           falls
           down
           ,
           and
           struggling
           for
           life
           ,
           dies
           away
           immediately
           ;
           then
           the
           man
           speedily
           takes
           him
           out
           ,
           and
           washing
           him
           a
           little
           in
           the
           water
           of
           the
           Lake
           hard
           by
           ,
           he
           presently
           recovers
           ;
           we
           tryed
           ,
           for
           our
           better
           satisfaction
           ,
           the
           experiment
           upon
           one
           of
           our
           own
           Dogs
           ,
           
           and
           kept
           him
           in
           the
           said
           Grotto
           it
           may
           be
           half
           a
           minute
           ,
           or
           some
           such
           small
           matter
           of
           time
           longer
           than
           the
           first
           Dog
           ,
           but
           too
           long
           to
           recover
           him
           ,
           for
           all
           our
           washing
           ,
           and
           whatever
           else
           we
           could
           do
           ,
           could
           not
           bring
           him
           to
           life
           again
           .
        
         
           About
           a
           mile
           from
           this
           venemous
           Grotto
           is
           the
           burning
           Mountains
           called
           by
           the
           name
           of
           
             Sulpha
             terra
          
           ,
           the
           principal
           matter
           that
           burns
           is
           Brimstone
           ,
           mixed
           with
           other
           Minerals
           :
           We
           were
           as
           near
           the
           burning
           part
           of
           it
           as
           we
           durst
           go
           ,
           for
           the
           smoke
           and
           fire
           was
           sometimes
           ready
           to
           choak
           us
           .
           But
           which
           was
           most
           to
           be
           admired
           ,
           was
           to
           see
           fire
           and
           smoke
           come
           furiously
           out
           ,
           if
           you
           thrust
           but
           a
           stick
           into
           that
           levelled
           part
           of
           the
           Mountain
           on
           which
           we
           walked
           ,
           the
           hilly
           part
           thereof
           being
           blown
           up
           and
           consumed
           with
           burning
           some
           time
           before
           .
        
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           Puzzeolo
           ,
           a
           little
           Town
           near
           the
           Sea-side
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Academy
           or
           
           School
           of
           Virgil
           :
           and
           by
           this
           the
           Temple
           of
           Neptune
           :
           but
           there
           is
           nothing
           remaining
           of
           either
           but
           old
           Walls
           ,
           and
           the
           ruins
           thereof
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           took
           a
           Boat
           and
           went
           by
           Sea
           to
           see
           the
           Sybillas
           Grotto
           ,
           but
           by
           the
           way
           they
           gave
           us
           an
           account
           of
           a
           Mountain
           we
           saw
           hard
           by
           ,
           called
           
             Monta
             Nova
          
           ,
           that
           about
           134
           years
           ago
           there
           was
           a
           curious
           Plain
           where
           the
           Mountain
           now
           stands
           ,
           and
           in
           it
           a
           little
           Town
           ,
           whereof
           the
           people
           were
           grown
           to
           that
           excess
           of
           debauchery
           and
           looseness
           of
           life
           ,
           that
           in
           one
           nights
           time
           they
           were
           all
           covered
           with
           this
           Mountain
           ,
           which
           they
           believe
           to
           be
           the
           Judgment
           of
           God
           upon
           the
           wickedness
           of
           the
           place
           .
           Others
           there
           are
           that
           say
           this
           Mountain
           was
           by
           the
           violent
           disorder
           of
           combustible
           matter
           burning
           under
           ground
           ,
           blown
           up
           from
           
             Sulpha
             terra
          
           before
           mentioned
           ,
           and
           carried
           to
           that
           place
           where
           it
           now
           stands
           ,
           which
           is
           two
           miles
           or
           thereabouts
           .
           Within
           half
           a
           mile
           
           of
           this
           Mountain
           you
           see
           the
           Grotto
           of
           Sybilla
           ,
           and
           the
           Lake
           Avernus
           ,
           or
           Lake
           of
           Hell
           ;
           at
           the
           farther
           side
           of
           which
           is
           the
           Temple
           of
           Apollo
           .
           About
           half
           a
           mile
           from
           the
           
             Grotto
             Sybilla
          
           are
           the
           Hot
           Baths
           :
           and
           very
           near
           to
           this
           place
           we
           saw
           the
           Tomb
           of
           Agripina
           ,
           the
           mother
           of
           Nero
           ;
           by
           which
           stands
           the
           Ruins
           of
           the
           Temple
           of
           Venus
           and
           Diana
           :
           And
           from
           hence
           you
           may
           see
           that
           place
           where
           Nero
           caused
           his
           Mother
           to
           be
           opened
           ,
           whereof
           nothing
           remains
           but
           the
           ruins
           ,
           like
           unto
           a
           Rock
           in
           the
           Sea
           ,
           some
           fourscore
           or
           a
           hundred
           paces
           from
           the
           shore
           .
           We
           had
           not
           gone
           far
           from
           the
           Sea-side
           ,
           but
           going
           over
           a
           little
           Hill
           we
           came
           into
           the
           ruins
           of
           what
           had
           been
           formerly
           a
           very
           fine
           street
           ,
           in
           which
           was
           kept
           the
           Saturdays
           Market
           of
           that
           great
           and
           antient
           Town
           called
           by
           the
           name
           of
           Baiae
           :
           Near
           the
           end
           of
           which
           street
           ,
           in
           a
           Vault
           or
           Cave
           there
           are
           several
           hollows
           or
           niches
           in
           the
           Walls
           ,
           where
           formerly
           
           in
           Urues
           they
           used
           to
           keep
           the
           Ashes
           of
           the
           dead
           .
           Hard
           by
           this
           place
           you
           see
           the
           Elysian
           Fields
           ,
           and
           the
           Dead
           Sea
           ,
           where
           Charon
           the
           Ferry-man
           used
           to
           ply
           ;
           and
           where
           formerly
           
           Nero's
           Army
           lay
           imbarqued
           .
           And
           not
           far
           from
           hence
           we
           saw
           what
           some
           call
           
             Piscina
             mirabilis
          
           ,
           which
           undoubtedly
           had
           been
           built
           for
           some
           great
           end
           .
           It
           is
           a
           very
           lofty
           building
           under
           ground
           ,
           supported
           by
           forty
           huge
           Pillars
           of
           Stone
           ,
           or
           thereabouts
           ;
           the
           plaistering
           of
           the
           Walls
           laid
           on
           about
           as
           thick
           as
           a
           Crown-piece
           ,
           of
           so
           excellent
           a
           composition
           ,
           (
           whereof
           they
           say
           whites
           of
           Eggs
           ,
           which
           I
           refer
           to
           the
           Reader
           ,
           was
           part
           of
           the
           Compound
           )
           is
           so
           very
           hard
           ,
           that
           the
           Rock
           it self
           cannot
           be
           harder
           .
           Here
           it
           is
           they
           say
           Nero
           kept
           fresh
           water
           for
           the
           use
           of
           his
           Navy
           ,
           that
           lay
           then
           in
           the
           Dead
           Sea.
           From
           this
           place
           we
           went
           and
           saw
           the
           
             Cento
             Camarelle
          
           ,
           or
           little
           rooms
           ,
           very
           strangely
           contrived
           to
           keep
           Slaves
           and
           Prisoners
           in
           .
        
         
         
           From
           hence
           we
           took
           our
           Boat
           again
           ,
           and
           returned
           to
           Puzzeolo
           ,
           where
           one
           may
           see
           the
           beginning
           of
           a
           Bridge
           ,
           carried
           on
           at
           least
           a
           mile
           or
           two
           into
           the
           Sea
           ;
           it
           is
           reported
           to
           be
           the
           unadvised
           enterprise
           of
           the
           Emperour
           Caligula
           ,
           who
           thought
           to
           have
           made
           it
           over
           an
           arm
           of
           the
           Sea
           three
           or
           four
           miles
           long
           .
           The
           same
           night
           we
           returned
           to
           Naples
           ,
           and
           the
           next
           day
           being
           Thursday
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           Sepulchres
           of
           Virgil
           ,
           and
           of
           Sanazzaro
           .
           Upon
           Friday
           we
           took
           Horses
           and
           went
           to
           the
           burning
           Mountain
           of
           Vesuvio
           ,
           some
           seven
           miles
           from
           Naples
           Eastward
           .
           The
           Heart
           or
           Substance
           of
           the
           Mountain
           is
           consumed
           by
           constant
           burnings
           ,
           and
           frequent
           Eruptions
           ;
           so
           that
           it
           may
           be
           more
           properly
           called
           the
           Shell
           of
           a
           Mountain
           ,
           whose
           Substance
           is
           lost
           ▪
           or
           not
           unlike
           unto
           a
           Cup
           ,
           whose
           brim
           or
           brink
           ,
           being
           near
           half
           a
           mile
           in
           circumference
           ,
           one
           may
           in
           any
           place
           lean
           over
           ,
           and
           look
           down
           
           into
           the
           Concavity
           thereof
           ,
           which
           is
           very
           deep
           ,
           and
           at
           the
           bottom
           perceive
           very
           well
           a
           young
           Hill
           growing
           up
           ,
           or
           rather
           forced
           up
           by
           some
           Combustible
           Matter
           underneath
           :
           This
           little
           Hill
           or
           Heap
           ,
           which
           swells
           from
           the
           bottom
           ,
           grows
           every
           year
           bigger
           and
           bigger
           ,
           and
           yet
           one
           may
           perceive
           it
           smoak
           constantly
           ,
           which
           't
           is
           believed
           it
           would
           not
           do
           if
           it
           did
           not
           burn
           .
           All
           the
           way
           up
           and
           down
           this
           Mountain
           ,
           you
           cannot
           avoid
           going
           up
           to
           the
           Knees
           in
           Ashes
           .
           There
           is
           a
           Bed
           or
           Channel
           that
           lies
           dry
           from
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Mountain
           down
           to
           the
           Sea-side
           ,
           which
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           was
           made
           by
           a
           burning
           liquid
           matter
           ,
           which
           the
           Mountain
           spued
           up
           so
           fast
           ,
           and
           with
           that
           violence
           ,
           that
           it
           forced
           its
           way
           there
           ,
           and
           like
           an
           impetuous
           River
           run
           burning
           down
           a
           great
           way
           into
           the
           Sea
           ,
           whereof
           nothing
           remains
           now
           but
           that
           Bed
           or
           Channel
           ,
           which
           has
           ever
           since
           continued
           dry
           :
           four
           or
           five
           
           miles
           round
           ▪
           this
           Mountain
           you
           see
           a
           hard
           rocky
           Cinder
           ,
           which
           in
           Eruptions
           are
           thrown
           so
           far
           at
           least
           ,
           up
           and
           down
           the
           Country
           to
           the
           great
           damage
           of
           the
           Inhabitants
           .
           In
           the
           year
           1631.
           was
           the
           last
           great
           Eruption
           ,
           in
           which
           they
           say
           there
           was
           no
           less
           than
           two
           thousand
           people
           killed
           and
           hurt
           .
        
         
           Upon
           Saturday
           we
           took
           a
           view
           of
           Naples
           again
           ,
           and
           the
           next
           morning
           left
           that
           place
           ,
           in
           order
           to
           our
           return
           again
           to
           Rome
           ,
           where
           we
           arrived
           the
           22
           d
           of
           November
           ,
           but
           took
           Frescata
           in
           our
           way
           ,
           which
           is
           about
           12
           miles
           from
           Rome
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Palace
           of
           
             Monte
             Dragone
          
           ,
           and
           Aldobrandina
           ,
           in
           these
           we
           saw
           many
           fine
           Waterworks
           ,
           among
           which
           the
           most
           considerable
           was
           that
           of
           the
           Organs
           .
           The
           Cascade
           or
           fall
           of
           Water
           was
           so
           great
           and
           so
           violent
           ,
           that
           in
           the
           very
           fall
           it
           brought
           wind
           enough
           with
           it
           to
           fill
           the
           Organ
           Pipes
           ,
           which
           were
           very
           artificially
           placed
           in
           a
           little
           House
           
           close
           to
           the
           Cascade
           for
           that
           purpose
           ,
           and
           a
           Wheel
           which
           the
           Water
           turned
           round
           ,
           having
           stops
           so
           conveniently
           placed
           on
           it
           as
           to
           touch
           the
           Keys
           in
           going
           about
           ,
           which
           caused
           it
           to
           play
           any
           tune
           as
           they
           should
           think
           fit
           who
           had
           the
           ordering
           of
           it
           ,
           and
           as
           loud
           almost
           as
           you
           hear
           in
           any
           Church
           ;
           we
           saw
           likewise
           the
           Figure
           of
           a
           Centaur
           with
           his
           Horn
           ,
           which
           by
           the
           help
           of
           the
           water
           he
           wound
           very
           loud
           ;
           there
           was
           likewise
           a
           Satyr
           playing
           upon
           Pipes
           ,
           and
           the
           chirping
           and
           singing
           of
           Birds
           very
           delightful
           ,
           and
           all
           performed
           by
           the
           help
           of
           the
           Water
           ;
           but
           which
           was
           more
           astonishing
           than
           all
           this
           ,
           was
           the
           great
           Grotto
           ,
           or
           great
           Waterwork
           in
           form
           of
           a
           Grotto
           ,
           placed
           directly
           against
           the
           back
           part
           of
           the
           House
           :
           The
           coming
           forth
           of
           the
           Water
           is
           like
           unto
           Thunder
           ,
           and
           then
           falls
           to
           the
           ground
           like
           Hail
           ,
           Rain
           and
           Mist
           ;
           Before
           we
           took
           our
           leaves
           of
           this
           place
           ,
           we
           saw
           a
           fine
           Room
           ,
           in
           which
           were
           several
           Figures
           ,
           playing
           upon
           divers
           Instruments
           ,
           representing
           the
           Muses
           ,
           and
           underneath
           it
           was
           the
           Wind
           Treasury
           ,
           which
           we
           discovered
           by
           their
           opening
           to
           us
           two
           or
           three
           holes
           about
           two
           Inches
           diameter
           made
           in
           the
           Floor
           of
           the
           said
           Room
           ,
           from
           whence
           the
           wind
           proceeded
           
           with
           so
           much
           strength
           ,
           as
           to
           bear
           up
           a
           Ball
           of
           Copper
           or
           Brass
           hovering
           very
           high
           over
           the
           hole
           .
        
         
           Thursday
           the
           29
           th
           of
           November
           being
           returned
           to
           Rome
           ,
           we
           went
           and
           saw
           St.
           
           Peter's
           Church
           and
           the
           Pope's
           Lodgings
           ,
           where
           we
           took
           notice
           of
           three
           or
           four
           Rooms
           finely
           painted
           by
           
             Michael
             Angelo
          
           ;
           the
           Gallery
           ,
           Gardens
           ,
           and
           Water-works
           are
           worth
           taking
           notice
           of
           .
        
         
           Upon
           Saturday
           the
           1
           st
           of
           December
           we
           went
           to
           the
           
             Villa
             Burghese
          
           ,
           belonging
           to
           a
           Prince
           that
           bears
           the
           same
           name
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           abundance
           of
           fine
           Statues
           ,
           whereof
           the
           Gladiator
           and
           Apollo
           taking
           hold
           of
           Daphne
           are
           most
           worth
           remark
           :
           These
           two
           last
           Figures
           being
           one
           intire
           piece
           of
           White
           Marble
           ,
           representing
           
           Apollo's
           pursuit
           of
           Daphne
           to
           ravish
           her
           ,
           when
           she
           changes
           into
           a
           Tree
           ,
           was
           done
           by
           
             Seignior
             Bernin
          
           ;
           the
           Painting
           is
           very
           good
           ;
           the
           fine
           Gardens
           and
           the
           variety
           of
           Waterworks
           is
           worth
           seeing
           :
           There
           is
           a
           Sea-Horse-Head
           ,
           and
           an
           Elephants
           Head
           worth
           taking
           notice
           of
           .
        
         
           Sunday
           ,
           the
           20
           of
           December
           ,
           we
           went
           to
           St.
           
           Paul's
           Church
           ,
           about
           a
           mile
           and
           an
           half
           out
           of
           Rome
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Crucifix
           ,
           that
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           spoke
           to
           St.
           Briget
           .
        
         
           Munday
           we
           saw
           Prince
           Pamphilio
           his
           
           Palace
           ,
           one
           of
           the
           Popes
           Nephews
           ,
           about
           a
           mile
           out
           of
           Town
           .
        
         
           Tuesday
           we
           went
           from
           St.
           
           Peter's
           Church
           to
           the
           Inquisition
           ,
           whose
           building
           we
           saw
           ,
           but
           they
           would
           not
           permit
           us
           to
           go
           into
           the
           Prisons
           :
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Onestrio
           ,
           where
           the
           body
           of
           
             Torquatus
             Tassus
          
           the
           Italian
           Poet
           lies
           Interred
           ;
           we
           saw
           his
           Study
           ,
           some
           of
           his
           own
           Manuscript
           ,
           the
           Cup
           he
           usually
           drunk
           out
           of
           ,
           and
           the
           Room
           he
           died
           in
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           now
           a
           fine
           Library
           .
        
         
           From
           this
           place
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Queen
           of
           Swedens
           Palace
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           most
           excellent
           pieces
           of
           Painting
           done
           by
           the
           best
           hands
           ,
           as
           
             Titio
             ,
             Bonoretta
             ,
             Carraggio
          
           and
           others
           .
        
         
           From
           thence
           we
           went
           to
           
           Farnesi's
           Palace
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           that
           Incomparable
           Masterpiece
           that
           was
           brought
           from
           Rhodes
           ,
           consisting
           of
           Seven
           Figures
           ,
           to
           wit
           ,
           
             a
             Bull
             ,
             a
             Dog
             ,
             Three
             Men
             and
             Two
             Women
          
           ;
           all
           these
           Seven
           Figures
           as
           big
           as
           the
           Life
           ,
           are
           cut
           out
           of
           one
           intire
           piece
           of
           Marble
           ,
           and
           do
           all
           naturally
           joyn
           in
           some
           part
           or
           other
           .
           The
           Figures
           do
           represent
           the
           History
           of
           Licus
           ,
           King
           of
           Thebes
           ,
           who
           took
           to
           Wife
           Anthiops
           ,
           Daughter
           of
           Nycteus
           ,
           King
           of
           Ethiopia
           ,
           
           whom
           Jupiter
           defiled
           ,
           putting
           on
           the
           form
           of
           a
           Satyr
           ,
           whereupon
           Licus
           put
           her
           away
           and
           married
           Dirce
           ,
           who
           perswaded
           the
           King
           to
           keep
           Antiope
           close
           Prisoner
           ,
           lest
           she
           should
           return
           into
           his
           favour
           again
           ,
           which
           accordingly
           was
           done
           ;
           but
           Jupiter
           ,
           out
           of
           compassion
           ,
           soon
           released
           her
           ,
           and
           then
           she
           fled
           into
           the
           Mountains
           ,
           where
           she
           was
           delivered
           to
           two
           Sons
           ,
           Amphion
           and
           Zetus
           ,
           who
           after
           they
           came
           to
           understand
           the
           injury
           done
           to
           their
           Mother
           by
           Licus
           and
           Dirce
           ,
           they
           took
           Dirce
           and
           by
           the
           Hair
           of
           the
           Head
           tyed
           her
           to
           the
           Horns
           of
           a
           mad
           Bull
           ,
           from
           which
           cruelty
           ,
           after
           she
           had
           suffered
           a
           long
           time
           ,
           by
           the
           clemency
           of
           the
           Gods
           she
           was
           delivered
           ;
           but
           Licus
           they
           killed
           :
           Whereupon
           Appolonius
           and
           Lauriscus
           ,
           two
           of
           the
           most
           famous
           Sculptures
           of
           that
           age
           ,
           willing
           to
           transmit
           this
           Tragical
           Story
           to
           posterity
           ,
           made
           this
           piece
           ,
           as
           it
           is
           likewise
           reported
           by
           Pliny
           in
           his
           36
           th
           Book
           and
           Chap.
           5.
           which
           afterwards
           amongst
           other
           Antiquities
           was
           brought
           from
           Rhodes
           to
           Rome
           by
           
             Assinios
             Pollion
          
           ,
           most
           famous
           in
           the
           time
           of
           Augustus
           ,
           and
           kept
           in
           the
           Baths
           of
           
             Antonius
             ,
             Pius
             ,
             Caracallus
          
           ,
           the
           Emperour
           ,
           under
           Mount
           Aventin
           ,
           and
           in
           the
           reign
           of
           Pope
           Paul
           the
           Third
           ,
           
           named
           Farnese
           ,
           was
           found
           in
           the
           Ruins
           of
           those
           Baths
           ,
           and
           by
           him
           put
           into
           order
           ,
           and
           placed
           where
           you
           now
           see
           it
           .
        
         
           Over
           against
           this
           in
           a
           Little
           Palace
           of
           Seignior
           Pighinis
           ,
           there
           is
           two
           of
           the
           finest
           Statues
           of
           Marble
           that
           is
           to
           be
           seen
           in
           Rome
           ,
           the
           one
           is
           Meleagre
           ,
           or
           as
           some
           say
           Adonis
           ,
           the
           other
           is
           a
           Venus
           .
        
         
           Wednesday
           we
           saw
           the
           Palace
           of
           Montalto
           ,
           where
           there
           are
           a
           great
           many
           fine
           Statues
           and
           curious
           Waterworks
           ,
           in
           a
           most
           spacious
           and
           fine
           Garden
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           
           Ludovisio's
           great
           Garden
           ,
           where
           in
           one
           Apartment
           we
           saw
           a
           Bed
           of
           inestimable
           value
           ;
           it
           was
           all
           beset
           with
           Precious
           Stones
           ,
           and
           by
           this
           Bed
           ,
           in
           a
           large
           Box
           ,
           we
           saw
           a
           petrified
           man.
           
        
         
           Thursday
           we
           saw
           the
           Palace
           of
           Cardinal
           Spada
           ,
           and
           the
           Hospital
           where
           all
           the
           Pilgrims
           that
           come
           to
           Rome
           are
           entertained
           for
           three
           days
           .
        
         
           Saturdry
           we
           saw
           Prince
           
           Pallastrino's
           Palace
           ,
           and
           upon
           Sunday
           we
           went
           to
           
             Santa
             Croce
          
           in
           Jerusalem
           ,
           one
           of
           the
           seven
           Churches
           ,
           where
           they
           pretend
           to
           have
           a
           great
           many
           Relicks
           ,
           as
           the
           Sponge
           that
           they
           offered
           to
           our
           Saviour
           when
           he
           was
           upon
           the
           Cross
           ,
           some
           of
           the
           Thorns
           that
           he
           was
           Crowned
           with
           ,
           one
           of
           the
           Nails
           that
           fastned
           him
           to
           the
           Cross
           ,
           and
           
           many
           other
           reliques
           .
           Afterwards
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           
             John
             Latteran
          
           ,
           which
           is
           esteemed
           the
           finest
           in
           Rome
           ,
           next
           to
           St.
           Peters
           ,
           and
           where
           they
           pretend
           to
           have
           the
           most
           reliques
           ;
           hard
           by
           this
           is
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           
             John
             in
             fonte
          
           ,
           where
           Infidels
           and
           others
           that
           turn
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           Rome
           are
           baptized
           .
        
         
           Monday
           the
           10th
           .
           we
           saw
           Cardinal
           
           Ghisi's
           Pallace
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           most
           admirable
           collection
           of
           Pictures
           ,
           and
           the
           richest
           Portiers
           or
           Door
           hangings
           that
           are
           in
           Rome
           ,
           there
           was
           a
           very
           rich
           bed
           of
           wh
           te
           Sattin
           ,
           painted
           they
           say
           ,
           with
           the
           Juice
           of
           Flowers
           ,
           so
           curiously
           that
           it
           took
           up
           five
           years
           time
           to
           do
           it
           in
           :
        
         
           Tuesday
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           Effigies
           of
           the
           King
           of
           France
           on
           Horseback
           ,
           cut
           out
           of
           one
           intire
           piece
           of
           pure
           white
           marble
           ,
           by
           
             Cavalier
             Beruin
          
           ;
           it
           was
           not
           then
           quite
           finished
           ,
           yet
           it
           seemed
           to
           challenge
           the
           finest
           thing
           of
           that
           nature
           that
           ever
           was
           made
           :
           It
           was
           to
           be
           sent
           into
           France
           ,
           so
           soon
           as
           it
           should
           be
           finished
           .
        
         
           Wednesday
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           Cupola
           of
           St.
           Peters
           ,
           and
           went
           into
           the
           Ball
           which
           is
           near
           seven
           Foot
           Diameter
           ,
           and
           will
           hold
           ten
           or
           twelve
           men
           at
           a
           time
           completely
           .
        
         
           The
           Church
           of
           St.
           Peter
           with
           the
           portico
           and
           thickness
           of
           the
           walls
           is
           one
           
           Thousand
           and
           Fifty
           eight
           Palmes
           in
           Length
           .
        
         
           The
           breadth
           of
           the
           Church
           in
           that
           part
           that
           makes
           the
           Cross
           is
           six
           hundred
           and
           seventy
           Palmes
           .
        
         
           From
           the
           Pavement
           to
           the
           twelve
           Apostles
           is
           two
           hundred
           and
           twelve
           Palmes
           high
           .
        
         
           The
           Cupola
           is
           one
           hundred
           and
           ninety
           Palms
           diameter
           ,
           and
           six
           hundred
           and
           fifty
           two
           from
           the
           Pavement
           to
           the
           Cross
           ,
           that
           is
           fixed
           upon
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Cupola
           .
        
         
           The
           Lanthorn
           of
           the
           Cupola
           ,
           and
           the
           great
           Altar
           in
           the
           middle
           of
           the
           Cross
           of
           the
           Church
           do
           measure
           alike
           ,
           in
           height
           one
           hundred
           twenty
           six
           Palms
           and
           a
           half
           .
        
         
           The
           Thursday
           following
           ,
           we
           went
           and
           saw
           the
           little
           Pallace
           of
           Cardinal
           Ghisi
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           very
           pretty
           Armory
           ,
           and
           many
           natural
           Curiosities
           ,
           amongst
           the
           rest
           the
           Cockatrices
           were
           worth
           remark
           :
           His
           fine
           Garden
           ,
           and
           those
           many
           Artifices
           by
           water
           ,
           from
           which
           it
           is
           almost
           impossible
           to
           avoid
           being
           wet
           ,
           unless
           the
           Gardiner
           be
           your
           Friend
           ,
           were
           all
           very
           well
           worth
           our
           sight
           .
        
         
           Friday
           the
           14th
           .
           we
           were
           introduced
           by
           the
           French
           Ambassador
           ,
           and
           admitted
           
           to
           the
           honour
           of
           kissing
           the
           Popes
           toe
           .
        
         
           Saturday
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           Prince
           
           Burgese's
           Pallace
           which
           is
           esteemed
           the
           finest
           in
           Rome
           .
        
         
           Sunday
           ,
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Sebastian
           about
           three
           miles
           out
           of
           
             Rome
             ▪
          
           it
           is
           one
           of
           the
           seven
           Churches
           ,
           and
           where
           they
           tell
           you
           our
           Saviour
           met
           St.
           Paul
           ,
           and
           conversed
           with
           him
           ,
           and
           left
           his
           Foot-steps
           for
           a
           mark
           thereof
           ,
           if
           you
           can
           believe
           as
           the
           Church
           of
           Rome
           believes
           ;
           This
           rencounter
           of
           our
           Saviour
           with
           St.
           Paul
           was
           when
           he
           made
           his
           escape
           from
           Rome
           ;
           besides
           the
           Footsteps
           of
           our
           Saviour
           ,
           they
           show
           you
           under
           the
           Church
           ,
           where
           in
           the
           times
           of
           Persecution
           they
           used
           to
           hide
           the
           Christians
           ,
           and
           bury
           those
           that
           they
           found
           dead
           ,
           and
           where
           the
           bodies
           of
           St.
           Peter
           and
           St.
           Paul
           are
           reported
           to
           be
           first
           interred
           .
        
         
           Monday
           17th
           .
           we
           began
           with
           the
           new
           Church
           of
           St.
           
             Nichola
             Tolentino
          
           ,
           which
           is
           well
           adorned
           with
           good
           Painting
           and
           a
           fine
           Altar
           .
        
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           
             Porta
             Salaire
          
           ,
           or
           Collina
           ,
           through
           which
           Hannibal
           and
           Bremus
           King
           of
           the
           Galls
           entered
           ,
           when
           they
           came
           to
           Rome
           ;
           a
           little
           within
           this
           Gate
           you
           see
           the
           place
           where
           they
           used
           to
           inter
           the
           Vestal
           Nymphs
           .
           We
           went
           
           forward
           and
           came
           to
           
             Porta
             Pia
          
           ,
           so
           called
           ,
           from
           
             Pius
             Quartus
          
           Pope
           of
           Rome
           ,
           in
           whose
           time
           it
           was
           built
           ,
           the
           workmanship
           was
           
             Michael
             Angelo
          
           Boneretta's
           ,
           the
           pretty
           Sabines
           that
           were
           ravished
           by
           the
           Romans
           ,
           came
           in
           at
           this
           Gate
           .
        
         
           From
           this
           Gate
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Temple
           of
           
             Sta.
             Agnese
          
           ,
           it
           is
           about
           a
           mile
           beyond
           the
           Walls
           of
           the
           City
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           great
           many
           fine
           Marble
           Pillars
           very
           antique
           ,
           and
           Candlesticks
           taken
           from
           the
           Temple
           of
           Bacchus
           ,
           but
           the
           four
           Porphery
           Pillars
           that
           bore
           up
           the
           great
           Altar
           are
           most
           worth
           remark
           .
        
         
           Near
           to
           this
           you
           see
           the
           place
           they
           call
           
             Roma
             Subterranea
          
           ,
           you
           go
           under
           ground
           and
           are
           conducted
           into
           several
           narrow
           passages
           on
           the
           right
           and
           left
           hand
           ,
           you
           may
           see
           several
           niches
           and
           concavities
           in
           which
           were
           Skulls
           ,
           and
           other
           Bones
           of
           Saints
           and
           Martyrs
           which
           in
           the
           times
           of
           Persecution
           fled
           thither
           and
           died
           there
           ,
           and
           were
           buried
           ,
           as
           our
           Author
           reported
           .
        
         
           Near
           to
           this
           place
           is
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Constanza
           ,
           heretofore
           the
           Temple
           of
           Bacchus
           ,
           in
           which
           you
           may
           see
           that
           Porphery
           Sepulcher
           either
           of
           Bacchus
           ,
           or
           of
           Constanza
           ,
           as
           is
           believed
           ;
           it
           may
           challenge
           the
           whole
           world
           for
           a
           Curiosity
           .
        
         
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Victoire
           ,
           where
           you
           may
           see
           the
           fine
           Statue
           of
           St.
           Terraise
           ,
           made
           by
           Cavalier
           Beruin
           ,
           near
           to
           this
           is
           that
           of
           St.
           Susanna
           ,
           where
           the
           Painting
           is
           not
           much
           amiss
           .
        
         
           From
           hence
           you
           may
           see
           the
           Tower
           or
           Church
           of
           St.
           Bernard
           ,
           their
           Garden
           was
           heretofore
           a
           Theatre
           ,
           opposite
           to
           which
           are
           the
           Baths
           of
           the
           Emperour
           Dioclesian
           ,
           by
           which
           you
           may
           take
           notice
           of
           eight
           great
           Marble
           Pillars
           which
           bore
           up
           the
           Ruines
           of
           a
           most
           noble
           arched
           Fabrick
           now
           partly
           converted
           to
           a
           Church
           .
        
         
           Not
           far
           from
           hence
           there
           is
           a
           little
           Church
           called
           Pudantiene
           ,
           where
           you
           may
           see
           that
           lovely
           Chappel
           of
           Cajeton
           ,
           and
           in
           it
           admire
           that
           incomparable
           Altar-piece
           ,
           which
           represents
           the
           birth
           of
           our
           Saviour
           and
           the
           three
           Kings
           coming
           to
           worship
           him
           ,
           made
           by
           
             Petrus
             Oliverus
             Romanus
          
           ;
           the
           Mosaick
           work
           is
           worth
           taking
           notice
           of
           ,
           besides
           the
           fine
           Statutes
           .
        
         
           Hard
           by
           this
           little
           Church
           you
           may
           take
           notice
           of
           the
           Bath
           of
           Agripina
           ,
           the
           Mother
           of
           Nero
           ,
           now
           in
           the
           Ruins
           .
        
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           and
           saw
           the
           pretty
           Church
           of
           St.
           Martin
           ,
           upon
           Mount
           Esquelyn
           ,
           built
           upon
           the
           ruined
           Baths
           of
           
             Titus
             Vespasius
          
           :
           At
           the
           end
           of
           
           this
           Church
           was
           the
           Tower
           of
           Nero
           ,
           upon
           which
           he
           sat
           playing
           on
           a
           Harp
           whilst
           the
           City
           of
           Rome
           was
           all
           in
           a
           flame
           of
           Fire
           .
        
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Peter
           in
           Vincoli
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           very
           fine
           Statue
           of
           Moses
           ;
           and
           they
           say
           the
           last
           thing
           that
           was
           done
           by
           
             Michael
             Angelo
          
           .
           I
           should
           have
           told
           you
           that
           it
           was
           between
           
             Porta
             Salaire
          
           and
           
             Porta
             Pia
          
           ,
           about
           three
           miles
           from
           Rome
           ,
           where
           Nero
           the
           Emperour
           killed
           himself
           ,
           to
           prevent
           a
           most
           shameful
           death
           that
           was
           prepared
           for
           him
           .
        
         
           Tuesday
           we
           went
           about
           three
           miles
           out
           of
           Rome
           to
           a
           place
           called
           the
           
             Three
             Fountains
          
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           three
           little
           Churches
           ,
           one
           of
           them
           called
           
             St.
             Athanasius
          
           ,
           another
           
             St.
             Bernard
          
           ;
           where
           they
           say
           lies
           abundance
           of
           the
           Saints
           bones
           :
           and
           the
           third
           is
           called
           the
           
             Three
             Fountains
          
           ,
           where
           they
           report
           St.
           Paul
           was
           beheaded
           ;
           and
           at
           the
           cutting
           of
           it
           off
           ,
           they
           say
           the
           Head
           gave
           three
           leaps
           ,
           at
           each
           of
           which
           there
           broke
           out
           immediately
           a
           Fountain
           of
           Water
           :
           And
           which
           was
           more
           wonderful
           ,
           that
           the
           Water
           of
           each
           Fountain
           should
           have
           a
           different
           taste
           from
           the
           other
           ;
           the
           first
           to
           taste
           like
           Wine
           ,
           the
           second
           like
           
           Milk
           ,
           and
           the
           third
           something
           near
           the
           taste
           of
           common
           Water
           ;
           but
           I
           found
           no
           difference
           in
           them
           but
           that
           they
           all
           tasted
           like
           other
           waters
           ,
           but
           it
           may
           be
           it
           was
           because
           there
           was
           wanting
           in
           me
           a
           Romish
           Faith.
           You
           may
           likewise
           see
           the
           Marble
           Pillar
           ,
           to
           which
           he
           was
           bound
           ,
           as
           they
           say
           ,
           when
           he
           was
           executed
           .
           In
           returning
           to
           Rome
           we
           saw
           St.
           Pauls
           Church
           again
           ,
           and
           the
           Crucifix
           that
           they
           say
           spoke
           to
           St.
           Brigid
           ,
           where
           in
           the
           Sacristie
           there
           are
           very
           fine
           Pictures
           done
           by
           Lanfranck
           .
        
         
           In
           the
           wall
           of
           the
           City
           you
           may
           see
           the
           fine
           Piramid
           ,
           or
           ,
           as
           some
           say
           ,
           the
           Sepulchre
           of
           
             Caius
             Cestius
          
           ;
           others
           say
           it
           is
           the
           Sepulchre
           of
           Remus
           .
           It
           was
           finished
           in
           330
           days
           ,
           which
           was
           but
           a
           very
           short
           time
           for
           so
           great
           a
           work
           .
        
         
           Thursday
           after
           dinner
           we
           saw
           the
           Pallace
           of
           Prince
           Justiniano
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           fine
           Statues
           and
           Painting
           .
           Then
           we
           went
           and
           saw
           the
           Popes
           gardens
           at
           
             Monte
             Cavallo
          
           .
        
         
           Friday
           ,
           near
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Sebastian
           ,
           which
           is
           some
           three
           or
           four
           miles
           out
           of
           Rome
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           Ruins
           of
           the
           Pretorial
           Camp
           ,
           or
           the
           place
           of
           Guard
           to
           the
           Emperour
           Dioclesian
           :
           Near
           to
           this
           you
           may
           see
           the
           little
           Heathenish
           
           Temple
           ,
           that
           was
           erected
           in
           derision
           of
           Hannibal
           ,
           for
           being
           forced
           to
           retreat
           without
           taking
           Rome
           .
           You
           see
           also
           not
           far
           from
           hence
           the
           Circle
           of
           Caracallo
           from
           whence
           was
           taken
           the
           oblique
           that
           now
           stands
           in
           the
           middle
           of
           the
           Piazza
           Navona
           ;
           from
           this
           place
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Fountain
           of
           the
           Nymph
           Aegeria
           ,
           which
           they
           say
           was
           built
           800
           years
           before
           our
           Saviours
           time
           :
           Returning
           to
           Rome
           again
           ,
           we
           went
           through
           the
           
             Porto
             Lattin
          
           ,
           just
           by
           which
           we
           saw
           a
           little
           Chappel
           ,
           where
           they
           say
           St.
           John
           the
           Evangelist
           was
           put
           to
           death
           ,
           by
           being
           put
           into
           a
           Cauldron
           of
           boyling
           Oyl
           .
           I
           should
           have
           taken
           notice
           of
           
             Capo
             di
             Bove
          
           ,
           at
           the
           beginning
           of
           this
           days
           Journey
           ,
           it
           lying
           in
           the
           way
           ,
           the
           remains
           of
           it
           is
           a
           great
           Tower
           partly
           demolished
           ,
           where
           the
           Sepulchre
           of
           Matella
           wife
           to
           rich
           Crassus
           ,
           daughter
           to
           Q.
           Metalla
           ,
           surnamed
           Cretico
           ,
           taken
           for
           having
           subdued
           the
           Cretes
           ,
           now
           remains
           .
        
         
           Saturday
           ,
           we
           went
           to
           Campidoglio
           ,
           where
           you
           may
           see
           erected
           the
           Trophies
           of
           the
           Emperour
           Trajan
           when
           he
           returned
           to
           Rome
           ,
           victorious
           over
           the
           Transilvanians
           .
           In
           the
           middle
           Court
           you
           see
           the
           copper
           Horse
           ,
           vulgarly
           called
           the
           Horse
           of
           Constantine
           the
           Emperour
           :
           In
           the
           Court
           called
           
           Conservatori
           ,
           you
           may
           take
           notice
           of
           the
           Head
           of
           the
           Emperour
           Domitian
           ,
           the
           Head
           and
           an
           Arm
           of
           the
           Emperour
           Commodus
           ,
           the
           Tomb
           of
           Mamea
           the
           Mother
           of
           
             Alexander
             Severus
          
           ,
           with
           many
           other
           figures
           very
           ancient
           .
           The
           Apartments
           above
           Stairs
           are
           full
           of
           old
           Statues
           and
           fine
           Painting
           ,
           the
           Idol
           of
           Hercules
           ,
           and
           the
           figure
           of
           a
           Wolf
           ,
           with
           Romulus
           and
           Remus
           hanging
           at
           the
           Dugs
           of
           it
           ,
           are
           very
           antique
           and
           worth
           remark
           ,
           they
           are
           of
           Copper
           .
        
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           Mount
           Capitolin
           ,
           hard
           by
           which
           you
           may
           see
           three
           fine
           Pillars
           that
           remain
           of
           the
           Temple
           of
           Jupiter
           ;
           on
           the
           top
           of
           which
           Pillars
           you
           may
           take
           notice
           of
           a
           Stone
           with
           fine
           old
           carving
           on
           it
           ,
           of
           those
           things
           which
           do
           denote
           the
           use
           and
           intent
           of
           the
           structure
           ;
           for
           by
           the
           Bullocks
           Head
           and
           Horns
           dressed
           with
           Flowers
           ,
           the
           Ax
           ,
           the
           Sacrificers
           Knife
           ,
           and
           Bason
           to
           receive
           the
           Blood
           ,
           and
           other
           things
           of
           this
           nature
           ,
           one
           may
           easily
           believe
           the
           report
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           the
           remains
           of
           the
           Temple
           of
           Jupiter
           ,
           where
           they
           used
           to
           Sacrifice
           to
           that
           Deity
           .
           Near
           to
           this
           you
           see
           the
           Temple
           of
           Concord
           :
           And
           not
           far
           from
           hence
           that
           fine
           ancient
           Pillar
           ,
           upon
           which
           was
           set
           the
           Statue
           of
           Domitian
           the
           
           Emperour
           ;
           a
           little
           farther
           we
           saw
           the
           Dungeon
           where
           the
           Romans
           formerly
           used
           to
           imprison
           the
           most
           notorious
           Malefactors
           ,
           amongst
           the
           rest
           St.
           Peter
           and
           St.
           Paul
           are
           said
           to
           have
           been
           kept
           here
           ;
           they
           shewed
           us
           a
           Pillar
           to
           which
           their
           Chains
           were
           fastned
           ,
           and
           close
           by
           it
           a
           little
           Fountain
           wherein
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           the
           Goaler
           and
           his
           Family
           were
           baptized
           after
           they
           were
           converted
           to
           the
           Christian
           Faith.
           In
           this
           place
           stands
           now
           a
           little
           Church
           dedicated
           to
           St.
           Joseph
           ,
           it
           is
           at
           the
           foot
           of
           that
           great
           descent
           of
           Marble
           Steps
           where
           the
           Romans
           used
           formerly
           to
           throw
           down
           the
           Criminals
           that
           were
           condemned
           to
           die
           :
           By
           this
           you
           may
           see
           the
           Triumphal
           Arch
           of
           the
           Emperour
           
             Septimus
             Severus
          
           ,
           erected
           against
           his
           return
           from
           the
           Conquest
           of
           the
           Partheans
           ,
           near
           to
           this
           is
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Martin
           ,
           where
           you
           may
           see
           his
           stately
           Sepulchre
           in
           a
           Vault
           ,
           and
           his
           fine
           Image
           of
           Marble
           upon
           the
           great
           Altar
           ;
           they
           likewise
           pretend
           to
           shew
           you
           where
           his
           Body
           was
           found
           .
           A
           little
           way
           from
           hence
           is
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Francis
           ,
           and
           in
           it
           that
           noble
           Sepulchre
           ,
           erected
           to
           his
           memory
           by
           Pope
           Innocent
           the
           tenth
           ,
           and
           another
           incomparable
           piece
           of
           
             Petrus
             Oliverus
          
           ,
           which
           represents
           the
           entry
           of
           Pope
           Gregory
           
           the
           11
           th
           into
           Rome
           when
           he
           came
           from
           Avignion
           :
           Behind
           this
           Church
           formerly
           stood
           the
           Temple
           of
           the
           Sun
           and
           Moon
           ;
           and
           near
           to
           this
           you
           see
           the
           Ruins
           of
           the
           Temple
           of
           Peace
           ,
           built
           by
           
             Titus
             Vespasius
          
           the
           Emperour
           ;
           over
           against
           this
           Temple
           are
           the
           Gardens
           of
           Farnese
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           a
           fine
           ancient
           Statue
           of
           Agripina
           :
           This
           place
           was
           heretofore
           the
           Palace
           of
           Caesar
           ,
           begun
           by
           
             Augustus
             Caesar
          
           upon
           Mount
           Palatin
           .
        
         
           Wednesday
           ,
           the
           2
           d
           of
           January
           ,
           we
           passed
           by
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           
             Maria
             Maggiore
          
           ,
           which
           stands
           upon
           Mount
           Esquilino
           ,
           and
           came
           to
           the
           little
           Church
           of
           St.
           Bibian
           ,
           where
           you
           may
           see
           her
           fine
           Statue
           ,
           made
           by
           Cavalier
           Bernin
           ;
           there
           is
           good
           Painting
           in
           Fresco
           ,
           done
           by
           
             Dietio
             Cortone
          
           ;
           they
           shew
           you
           a
           little
           Pillar
           of
           Porphery
           ,
           to
           which
           they
           say
           St.
           Bibian
           was
           tied
           when
           she
           was
           martyrized
           .
        
         
           Near
           to
           
             Porta
             Palestina
          
           is
           the
           Temple
           of
           Bacchus
           ,
           built
           by
           
             Augustus
             Caesar
          
           ,
           to
           the
           honour
           of
           his
           two
           Nephews
           ,
           Cajus
           and
           Lisius
           ;
           it
           is
           now
           vulgarly
           called
           Galusia
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           and
           saw
           
             Sancta
             Croce
          
           ,
           which
           is
           one
           of
           the
           Seven
           Churches
           ,
           the
           Pillars
           thereof
           were
           taken
           out
           of
           the
           Temple
           of
           Venus
           and
           Cupidon
           ,
           which
           Temple
           was
           ruined
           by
           the
           
           Emperour
           Constantine
           ;
           behind
           the
           great
           Altar
           is
           the
           story
           of
           St.
           Helena
           ,
           mother
           of
           Constantine
           ,
           seaching
           for
           the
           Cross
           of
           our
           Saviour
           ,
           done
           in
           Fresco
           by
           Perusino
           the
           Master
           of
           
             Raphael
             Vrbin
          
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Temple
           of
           the
           Emperour
           Claudins
           ,
           now
           called
           St.
           Stephens
           Church
           ;
           it
           is
           built
           round
           ,
           and
           supported
           by
           abundance
           of
           fine
           Pillars
           ;
           the
           History
           of
           the
           persecutions
           of
           the
           Christians
           by
           the
           heathenish
           Emperours
           ,
           from
           the
           time
           of
           our
           Saviour
           to
           Constantine
           the
           first
           Christian
           Emperour
           ,
           is
           painted
           round
           the
           Church
           .
        
         
           Saturday
           we
           went
           again
           to
           the
           Campadoglio
           ,
           where
           in
           a
           little
           Court
           going
           up
           Stairs
           ,
           one
           may
           take
           notice
           of
           four
           several
           pieces
           Carved
           in
           Stone
           ,
           which
           represent
           the
           coming
           of
           
             Marc.
             Aurel.
          
           in
           triumph
           to
           Rome
           .
           Above
           Stairs
           take
           notice
           of
           the
           great
           Hall
           painted
           in
           Fresco
           by
           
             Joseph
             Darpin
          
           ;
           in
           the
           next
           Room
           is
           the
           Statue
           of
           
             Anthonio
             Columne
          
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           next
           to
           this
           the
           Head
           of
           
             Junius
             Brutus
          
           that
           overcame
           the
           Tarquins
           ,
           the
           Head
           of
           Mithridate
           an
           eminent
           Captain
           against
           the
           Romans
           .
           In
           another
           room
           we
           saw
           the
           Head
           of
           Fabritius
           a
           brave
           Soldier
           against
           the
           Pirots
           ,
           and
           the
           Head
           of
           Simon
           that
           betrayed
           Troy.
           In
           another
           Room
           
           we
           saw
           a
           fine
           Statue
           of
           a
           Cybilla
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           other
           Apartments
           we
           saw
           a
           fine
           old
           Statue
           of
           a
           Magician
           ,
           and
           the
           Statue
           of
           Marios
           the
           great
           Roman
           Consul
           ,
           and
           the
           Nurse
           of
           Nero
           the
           Emperour
           ,
           a
           fine
           figure
           .
           Near
           to
           the
           Triumphal
           Arch
           of
           
             Septimus
             Severus
          
           there
           remains
           three
           Pillars
           of
           the
           Temple
           that
           Romulus
           built
           to
           Jupiter
           ,
           occasioned
           by
           a
           Vow
           Romulus
           had
           made
           when
           his
           Army
           was
           routed
           by
           the
           Sabins
           ,
           that
           if
           he
           should
           be
           able
           to
           rally
           his
           Army
           ,
           and
           defeat
           the
           Enemy
           ,
           he
           would
           build
           a
           Temple
           and
           dedicate
           it
           to
           Jupiter
           ,
           which
           accordingly
           was
           done
           ,
           and
           his
           Vow
           performed
           .
        
         
           Not
           far
           from
           hence
           is
           the
           Temple
           of
           Anthonin
           and
           Faustin
           ,
           now
           called
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Laurence
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           fine
           Altar-piece
           ,
           done
           by
           
             Pietro
             Cortono
          
           :
           Hard
           by
           this
           is
           the
           Temple
           of
           Romulus
           and
           Remus
           ,
           now
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Come
           and
           Damian
           .
           And
           not
           far
           from
           hence
           we
           saw
           the
           Triumphal
           Arch
           of
           
             Titus
             Vespasian
          
           ,
           erected
           upon
           the
           taking
           of
           Rome
           :
           Not
           far
           from
           this
           you
           may
           see
           the
           Triumphal
           Arch
           of
           Constantine
           ,
           by
           some
           called
           that
           of
           Trajans
           ,
           because
           most
           of
           the
           best
           Figures
           carved
           in
           Stone
           ,
           and
           what
           else
           is
           there
           most
           worth
           your
           notice
           was
           brought
           from
           the
           Triumphal
           
           Arch
           of
           Trajan
           ,
           to
           whose
           honour
           it
           was
           built
           after
           he
           had
           subdued
           the
           Tyrant
           Maxanae
           :
           Near
           to
           this
           you
           may
           see
           the
           Ruins
           of
           the
           Amphitheatre
           ,
           where
           St.
           Igneas
           ,
           a
           Disciple
           of
           St.
           Peters
           ,
           in
           the
           raign
           of
           Trajan
           ,
           was
           devoured
           by
           Lyons
           .
           We
           went
           afterwards
           a
           little
           farther
           ,
           and
           saw
           the
           nine
           Vaults
           where
           the
           water
           for
           the
           use
           of
           the
           Amphitheatre
           ,
           as
           also
           for
           the
           Baths
           of
           
             Titus
             Vespasian
          
           was
           preserved
           ;
           some
           say
           they
           were
           first
           made
           to
           keep
           water
           in
           for
           the
           use
           of
           
           Nero's
           Gardens
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           little
           Triumphal
           Arch
           of
           
             Septimus
             Severus
          
           in
           Forobauno
           ,
           erected
           by
           the
           Merchants
           and
           Goldsmiths
           ,
           upon
           Stones
           where
           one
           may
           see
           carved
           the
           Ax
           ,
           the
           head
           of
           the
           Victim
           ,
           and
           several
           other
           things
           that
           were
           made
           use
           of
           in
           their
           Sacrifices
           to
           the
           Heathenish
           Gods.
           Hard
           by
           this
           stands
           an
           Antick-piece
           of
           square
           Building
           ,
           which
           has
           on
           every
           side
           a
           great
           Door
           built
           Arch-fashion
           ,
           and
           twelve
           Niches
           ,
           formerly
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           there
           was
           fourteen
           such
           Buildings
           which
           divided
           the
           City
           of
           Rome
           into
           so
           many
           parts
           ,
           to
           each
           of
           which
           there
           was
           a
           Governour
           ▪
           They
           say
           moreover
           ,
           that
           in
           the
           reign
           of
           
             Augustus
             Caesar
          
           they
           used
           to
           celebrate
           the
           Feasts
           of
           Competallini
           in
           those
           places
           .
           First
           instituted
           
           by
           
             Servius
             Tullius
          
           ,
           in
           honour
           of
           their
           Domestick
           Deities
           .
           Near
           to
           the
           Rotonda
           ,
           which
           is
           not
           far
           from
           hence
           ,
           there
           remains
           Eleven
           Fine
           Pillars
           of
           Marble
           of
           the
           Temple
           of
           Mars
           ,
           built
           by
           
             Marc.
             Aurel.
          
           after
           he
           had
           obtained
           the
           victory
           against
           the
           Moravies
           ;
           heretofore
           it
           was
           called
           Marcoman
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Palace
           of
           Fierevante
           ,
           where
           by
           the
           way
           we
           saw
           the
           Statue
           of
           Antonia
           ,
           Grandmother
           to
           Agrippina
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           Palace
           Garden
           there
           is
           a
           Fine
           Figure
           of
           Esculapius
           ,
           the
           Sepulchre
           of
           Augustus
           ,
           and
           the
           Vault
           where
           all
           his
           Family
           lye
           interred
           ,
           heretofore
           called
           the
           Mausol
           .
        
         
           Monday
           we
           went
           and
           took
           a
           view
           of
           Trajans
           Colomn
           ,
           esteemed
           one
           of
           the
           finest
           pieces
           of
           Antiquity
           the
           World
           affords
           ;
           all
           the
           most
           memorable
           and
           most
           noble
           exploits
           of
           his
           Life
           are
           lively
           represented
           by
           incomparable
           Carving
           ,
           quite
           round
           the
           Pillar
           ,
           from
           the
           top
           to
           the
           pedestal
           ;
           the
           Model
           of
           which
           has
           been
           lately
           taken
           by
           the
           French
           King.
           
        
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           
             Mont.
             Avantin
          
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Church
           and
           Convent
           of
           St.
           
           Dominick's
           Order
           ,
           it
           was
           heretofore
           the
           Temple
           of
           Juno
           ;
           there
           is
           one
           thing
           remarkable
           in
           it
           ,
           a
           round
           Marble
           Stone
           ,
           which
           they
           say
           the
           Devil
           threw
           
           at
           St.
           Dominico
           when
           he
           was
           at
           prayers
           .
           Near
           to
           this
           is
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Alexis
           ,
           heretofore
           the
           Temple
           of
           Diana
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Isle
           of
           Tiber
           ,
           which
           lies
           between
           the
           Bridge
           of
           Four
           Heads
           ,
           and
           the
           other
           Bridge
           called
           —
           where
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Bartholomew
           now
           stands
           ,
           it
           was
           heretofore
           the
           Temple
           of
           Aesculapius
           ,
           the
           God
           of
           Physick
           .
           We
           went
           from
           hence
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Cicile
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           fine
           Statue
           of
           Marble
           ,
           made
           in
           the
           same
           manner
           ,
           lying
           as
           when
           her
           Body
           was
           found
           :
           Near
           to
           this
           there
           is
           another
           Church
           ,
           where
           in
           a
           little
           Chappel
           you
           may
           see
           a
           fine
           Altar-piece
           ,
           painted
           by
           
             Hanibal
             Carasco
          
           ,
           and
           a
           fine
           Antick
           Tomb.
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Chrysogorio
           ,
           which
           is
           built
           upon
           the
           Ruins
           of
           an
           Hospital
           that
           
             Augustus
             Caesar
          
           had
           made
           for
           the
           use
           of
           his
           maim'd
           Soldiers
           .
           Near
           to
           this
           there
           is
           another
           Church
           called
           
             Sancta
             Translaverie
          
           ,
           heretofore
           an
           Hospital
           for
           the
           use
           before-mentioned
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           place
           where
           St.
           Peter
           was
           martyrized
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           now
           a
           Church
           called
           by
           his
           name
           ;
           there
           is
           in
           it
           a
           fine
           piece
           of
           Painting
           of
           the
           transfiguration
           ,
           done
           by
           
             Raphael
             Vrbin
          
           :
           This
           place
           was
           heretofore
           called
           the
           Ganicul●
           .
        
         
         
           Tuesday
           following
           we
           went
           to
           St.
           Peters
           Church
           ,
           and
           observed
           the
           four
           Statues
           of
           Copper
           ,
           which
           support
           St.
           
           Peter's
           Chair
           ;
           in
           which
           Chair
           the
           Popes
           are
           usually
           seated
           when
           the
           solemnity
           of
           Coronation
           passes
           on
           them
           ;
           the
           two
           outward
           figures
           represent
           St.
           Ambrose
           and
           St.
           Augustin
           ,
           and
           the
           two
           inward
           St.
           Cyril
           and
           St.
           Chrysostome
           ;
           on
           the
           Right
           Hand
           of
           the
           Altar
           you
           see
           that
           incomparable
           fine
           Statue
           of
           Marble
           made
           by
           
             Gulielmus
             Dellaporta
          
           ;
           we
           went
           afterwards
           underneath
           the
           Church
           into
           the
           Vaults
           where
           we
           saw
           Otto
           the
           eleventh
           Emperour
           of
           Germany
           as
           he
           was
           there
           intomb'd
           ,
           with
           the
           Sepulchre
           of
           Carola
           Queen
           of
           
             Jerusalem
             ,
             Cypre
          
           ,
           and
           Armenia
           ;
           from
           hence
           we
           went
           into
           the
           Pope's
           Armory
           ,
           where
           they
           say
           are
           Arms
           sufficient
           for
           65000
           Men.
           
        
         
           We
           afterwards
           went
           to
           the
           Chappel
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           that
           excellent
           piece
           of
           Painting
           ,
           which
           represents
           the
           Day
           of
           Judgment
           ,
           done
           by
           
             Michael
             Angelo
          
           ,
           who
           amongst
           other
           things
           that
           he
           had
           figured
           to
           be
           in
           Hell
           ,
           puts
           in
           a
           Cardinal
           in
           his
           Pontificalibus
           ,
           which
           was
           drawn
           so
           near
           to
           the
           life
           ,
           that
           whoever
           saw
           it
           knew
           it
           to
           be
           the
           very
           picture
           of
           such
           a
           Cardinal
           ,
           an
           eminent
           Man
           then
           living
           in
           Rome
           ,
           who
           
           they
           report
           came
           to
           see
           the
           Painting
           before
           it
           was
           finished
           ,
           and
           hastily
           rushing
           in
           at
           the
           door
           ,
           over
           which
           
             Michael
             Angelo
          
           hapned
           to
           be
           then
           at
           work
           upon
           a
           Ladder
           ,
           chanced
           to
           throw
           him
           down
           ,
           which
           to
           be
           revenged
           of
           ,
           he
           paints
           the
           Cardinal
           in
           Hell
           ,
           whereupon
           the
           Cardinal
           complians
           to
           the
           Pope
           ,
           who
           was
           then
           Leo
           X.
           of
           the
           great
           indignity
           done
           him
           by
           
             Michael
             Angelo
          
           ,
           who
           had
           placed
           him
           amongst
           the
           Devils
           in
           Hell
           ;
           to
           which
           the
           Pope
           returned
           this
           Answer
           ,
           That
           he
           indeed
           was
           heartily
           sorry
           for
           it
           ,
           and
           could
           have
           wished
           that
           he
           had
           placed
           him
           in
           Purgatory
           ,
           for
           there
           he
           could
           have
           fetched
           him
           out
           ;
           but
           being
           once
           in
           Hell
           ,
           there
           was
           no
           redemption
           .
           So
           that
           the
           Cardinal
           remains
           there
           to
           this
           day
           .
        
         
           Friday
           ,
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Baths
           of
           
             Anthonio
             Caracallo
          
           ,
           Son
           to
           
             Septimus
             Severus
          
           ,
           from
           whence
           were
           taken
           all
           the
           Pillars
           that
           are
           now
           in
           St.
           
           Paul's
           Church
           ,
           and
           the
           Bull
           of
           Farnese
           before
           mentioned
           ,
           together
           with
           the
           two
           great
           Marble
           Vessels
           that
           stand
           in
           the
           
             Piazza
             Farnese
          
           ;
           these
           Baths
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           had
           1500
           Rooms
           in
           them
           .
           In
           going
           to
           these
           Baths
           ,
           between
           Mont.
           Palatin
           and
           Mont.
           Aventin
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           Circle
           where
           the
           pretty
           Sibins
           were
           ravished
           .
        
         
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Laurence
           ,
           being
           one
           of
           the
           Seven
           where
           there
           is
           abundance
           of
           fine
           Marble
           Pillars
           with
           other
           Stones
           finely
           Carved
           ,
           relating
           to
           Sacrifices
           ;
           from
           whence
           one
           may
           conclude
           that
           it
           had
           formerly
           been
           some
           Heathenish
           Temple
           :
           Upon
           the
           right
           and
           left
           hand
           going
           into
           the
           Church
           ,
           you
           may
           see
           two
           Ancient
           Tombs
           of
           Marble
           .
        
         
           We
           afterwards
           saw
           the
           Castle
           of
           St.
           Angelo
           ,
           were
           the
           Popes
           Triple
           Crown
           is
           kept
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           planted
           a
           great
           many
           Brass
           Guns
           ,
           whereof
           't
           is
           believed
           the
           major
           part
           was
           made
           of
           the
           Brass
           taken
           from
           the
           Pantheon
           ,
           and
           one
           of
           them
           made
           out
           of
           the
           Brass
           Nails
           only
           that
           were
           imployed
           in
           the
           Brazen
           Work
           of
           that
           Temple
           ,
           so
           vast
           was
           the
           quantity
           of
           Brass
           found
           there
           .
        
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Pallace
           of
           Medicis
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           these
           principal
           Statues
           ,
           
             (
             viz.
          
           )
           the
           Rotatore
           ,
           being
           a
           Country
           Fellow
           that
           discovered
           the
           Conspiracy
           of
           Cataline
           against
           the
           Republick
           of
           Rome
           .
           A
           Venus
           made
           by
           Cleomenes
           the
           Son
           of
           Appolodorus
           of
           Athens
           ,
           which
           heretofore
           they
           say
           was
           an
           Idol
           worshipped
           in
           the
           Rotonda
           .
           The
           Statue
           of
           Marsias
           ,
           who
           was
           flaid
           alive
           for
           presuming
           to
           understand
           
           Musick
           as
           well
           as
           Apollo
           .
           The
           Wrestlers
           in
           one
           intire
           piece
           of
           Marble
           .
           Then
           in
           the
           Garden
           you
           see
           two
           great
           Vessels
           of
           Marble
           ,
           taken
           out
           of
           the
           Baths
           of
           Dioclesian
           the
           Emperor
           ,
           and
           fourteen
           fine
           ancient
           Statues
           ,
           representing
           the
           Sons
           and
           Daughters
           of
           Niobe
           ,
           that
           were
           all
           put
           to
           death
           by
           order
           of
           
             Latona
             ,
             Jupiters
          
           Concubine
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           fiction
           of
           the
           Poets
           .
        
         
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           again
           to
           St.
           
           Peter's
           Church
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           head
           of
           the
           Spear
           that
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           pierced
           our
           Saviours
           Side
           ,
           and
           a
           piece
           of
           the
           Cross
           ,
           with
           a
           Handkerchief
           that
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           St.
           Veronnica
           gave
           him
           to
           wipe
           the
           Sweat
           from
           his
           Face
           ,
           when
           he
           was
           going
           to
           Mount
           Calvar
           loaded
           with
           the
           Cross
           ;
           whereon
           is
           to
           be
           seen
           plainly
           the
           print
           of
           a
           Face
           which
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           affixed
           it self
           so
           to
           the
           Handkercief
           as
           soon
           as
           our
           Saviour
           had
           made
           use
           of
           it
           .
        
         
           Monday
           the
           21
           th
           of
           January
           we
           left
           Rome
           in
           order
           to
           go
           to
           Venice
           ,
           and
           lay
           the
           first
           night
           at
           Rigneava
           twenty
           three
           miles
           from
           Rome
           ,
           the
           next
           night
           we
           lay
           at
           Ternit
           ,
           twenty
           eight
           miles
           ,
           and
           upon
           Wednesday
           we
           arrived
           at
           Foligne
           thirty
           miles
           more
           ;
           from
           whence
           on
           Thursday
           wecame
           to
           Valcemare
           twenty
           eight
           miles
           ,
           and
           the
           
           next
           day
           to
           Lauretta
           thirty
           two
           miles
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Holy
           House
           ,
           now
           so
           called
           ,
           it
           being
           formerly
           (
           they
           told
           us
           )
           the
           proper
           Mansion
           House
           ,
           or
           Habitation
           of
           the
           Virgin
           Mary
           in
           Nazareth
           ,
           when
           the
           Angel
           Gabriel
           saluted
           her
           with
           the
           joyful
           news
           of
           her
           Conception
           of
           our
           Saviour
           Christ
           .
        
         
           It
           was
           first
           miraculously
           brought
           from
           Nazareth
           into
           Dalmatia
           ,
           and
           from
           thence
           by
           the
           Angels
           carried
           over
           the
           Gulf
           of
           Venice
           ,
           and
           set
           down
           in
           Italy
           ,
           where
           it
           now
           remains
           to
           the
           great
           astonishment
           of
           all
           that
           see
           it
           ,
           if
           they
           believe
           the
           report
           :
           All
           that
           you
           see
           of
           this
           Holy
           House
           is
           no
           more
           than
           four
           Walls
           very
           unartificially
           built
           ,
           of
           an
           ordinary
           sort
           of
           Stone
           ,
           much
           like
           unto
           our
           Brick
           ,
           which
           four
           Walls
           compose
           the
           four
           sides
           of
           a
           little
           ground
           Room
           ,
           almost
           square
           ,
           which
           they
           call
           the
           Holy
           House
           ;
           but
           some
           time
           since
           they
           have
           built
           over
           it
           a
           very
           fine
           Church
           ,
           and
           have
           very
           richly
           cased
           and
           adorned
           this
           Irregular
           Room
           with
           pure
           fine
           Marble
           ,
           curiously
           wrought
           and
           carved
           ,
           much
           more
           to
           be
           admired
           than
           the
           Holy
           House
           it self
           .
           In
           the
           Holy
           House
           there
           is
           a
           Wooden
           Dish
           ,
           which
           ,
           they
           told
           us
           ,
           the
           Virgin
           Mary
           did
           use
           to
           eat
           or
           drink
           in
           ;
           and
           the
           Image
           of
           a
           Woman
           
           carved
           in
           Wood
           ,
           with
           a
           Child
           in
           her
           Arms
           ,
           which
           they
           take
           to
           be
           the
           Effigies
           of
           the
           Virgin
           Mary
           ,
           with
           our
           Saviour
           :
           They
           shewed
           us
           likewise
           an
           old
           Red
           Pet●icoat
           ,
           supposed
           likewise
           to
           be
           what
           the
           Virgin
           Mary
           ,
           in
           her
           life-time
           ,
           did
           wear
           ,
           because
           it
           was
           found
           upon
           the
           Image
           :
           There
           are
           several
           rich
           Lamps
           ,
           whereof
           ten
           are
           of
           pure
           Gold
           ;
           and
           a
           very
           rich
           Cloath
           of
           Gold
           and
           Silver
           ,
           beset
           with
           Diamonds
           and
           other
           Precious
           Stones
           ,
           for
           a
           Covering
           to
           the
           Image
           .
        
         
           From
           hence
           they
           conducted
           us
           to
           the
           Treasury
           of
           the
           Order
           of
           this
           Holy
           House
           ,
           which
           without
           doubt
           is
           the
           richest
           in
           Christendom
           ,
           for
           that
           innumerable
           quantity
           of
           Precious
           Stones
           ,
           as
           Diamonds
           ,
           Pearls
           ,
           Rubies
           ,
           &c.
           too
           many
           to
           be
           particularly
           mentioned
           ,
           that
           they
           have
           there
           amassed
           together
           ,
           likewise
           Vessels
           of
           Gold
           and
           Silver
           in
           abundance
           :
           There
           is
           also
           one
           fine
           piece
           of
           Painting
           ,
           done
           by
           
             Hannibal
             Caratio
          
           ;
           after
           this
           they
           shewed
           us
           the
           Apothecaries
           Shop
           ,
           whereof
           the
           Pots
           were
           all
           Painted
           by
           
             Raphael
             Vrbin
          
           .
           From
           Lauretta
           we
           went
           on
           Saturday
           the
           26
           th
           of
           January
           to
           Ancona
           fifteen
           miles
           ,
           where
           the
           most
           remarkable
           thing
           is
           the
           Triumphal
           Arch
           of
           Trojan
           upon
           the
           Mould
           ,
           and
           St.
           
           Augustin's
           
           Church
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           some
           good
           painting
           ,
           done
           by
           Pomerancia
           .
           It
           is
           a
           great
           Town
           well
           fortified
           ,
           with
           Cannon
           planted
           as
           well
           against
           the
           Sea
           ,
           as
           against
           the
           Land.
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           twenty
           miles
           upon
           the
           Adriatick
           Sea
           shore
           ,
           and
           lay
           at
           Senegaglia
           ,
           a
           Town
           fortified
           almost
           in
           a
           square
           ;
           heretofore
           it
           did
           belong
           to
           the
           Duke
           of
           Vrbin
           ,
           but
           now
           it
           is
           in
           the
           possession
           of
           the
           Pope
           .
           The
           next
           day
           we
           went
           twenty
           miles
           more
           to
           Dinner
           at
           Pesaro
           ,
           within
           five
           miles
           of
           this
           place
           we
           went
           through
           a
           Town
           called
           Fano
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           Triumphal
           Arch
           erected
           to
           the
           honour
           of
           Caesar
           ,
           when
           he
           returned
           victorious
           over
           the
           French.
           From
           Pesaro
           we
           went
           25
           miles
           more
           ,
           and
           lay
           at
           Rimini
           ,
           still
           all
           along
           upon
           the
           Adriatick
           Sea
           side
           .
           It
           is
           a
           great
           Town
           ,
           but
           very
           much
           ruined
           by
           an
           Earthquake
           ,
           that
           two
           years
           before
           shook
           down
           a
           Spacious
           Market-place
           ,
           with
           the
           greatest
           part
           of
           the
           Buildings
           about
           it
           ,
           which
           were
           very
           sumptuous
           ;
           and
           the
           best
           part
           of
           the
           Town
           was
           thereby
           destroyed
           ,
           to
           the
           terrible
           amazement
           of
           all
           the
           Inhabitants
           ,
           whereof
           the
           greatest
           part
           made
           their
           escape
           when
           they
           first
           perceived
           the
           Earth
           to
           tremble
           ,
           and
           the
           Streets
           begin
           to
           rock
           ,
           and
           by
           the
           violence
           of
           the
           concussion
           ready
           to
           
           meet
           and
           touch
           a
           top
           ,
           though
           some
           more
           careful
           than
           prudent
           ,
           to
           save
           their
           goods
           ,
           were
           buried
           with
           them
           in
           the
           ruine
           of
           their
           Houses
           ;
           the
           greatest
           part
           of
           which
           still
           lies
           in
           heaps
           .
           The
           Chappel
           of
           St.
           Anthony
           ,
           which
           Lassel
           in
           his
           Voyage
           of
           Italy
           doth
           say
           ,
           proved
           miraculously
           the
           real
           presence
           in
           the
           Sacrament
           ,
           was
           likewise
           without
           any
           difference
           shaken
           down
           with
           the
           rest
           ;
           so
           that
           the
           historical
           painting
           ,
           which
           should
           have
           informed
           us
           concerning
           the
           Miracle
           ,
           fell
           with
           the
           Chappel
           Walls
           .
           Near
           to
           this
           there
           is
           a
           large
           Stone
           fixed
           ,
           where
           they
           say
           Caesar
           made
           a
           Speech
           to
           his
           Army
           .
           From
           Rimini
           ,
           upon
           Tuesday
           the
           29
           th
           .
           we
           came
           to
           Ravenna
           ,
           35
           miles
           ,
           where
           we
           spent
           the
           morning
           to
           see
           the
           Town
           ,
           and
           first
           went
           to
           the
           fine
           Convent
           of
           
             Sancta
             Vitalle
          
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Chappel
           of
           
             Galla
             Placidia
          
           ,
           the
           Daughter
           of
           Theodosius
           the
           Great
           ,
           and
           Sister
           to
           Arcadia
           and
           Honorius
           ,
           Wife
           of
           Constantius
           ,
           and
           Mother
           to
           Valentinianus
           the
           Third
           ,
           all
           Emperours
           .
           Her
           great
           Marble
           Tomb
           is
           placed
           at
           the
           upper
           end
           of
           the
           Chappel
           ▪
           And
           the
           two
           great
           Tombs
           of
           Honorius
           and
           Valentinianus
           on
           each
           side
           of
           the
           Chappel
           ;
           the
           two
           Tombs
           fixed
           in
           the
           Walls
           going
           out
           of
           the
           Chappel
           ;
           it
           is
           believed
           do
           acknowledge
           
           Arcadius
           ,
           and
           the
           Nurse
           of
           Valentinianus
           ,
           for
           their
           being
           there
           erected
           :
           After
           we
           had
           seen
           this
           ,
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           ,
           where
           in
           going
           in
           ,
           we
           took
           notice
           of
           a
           Marble
           Stone
           in
           the
           wall
           ,
           whereon
           were
           several
           very
           Antique
           Figures
           ,
           curiously
           engraven
           ,
           representing
           a
           Bull
           led
           to
           the
           Sacrifice
           ,
           with
           the
           Heathenish
           Priests
           attending
           :
           There
           is
           likewise
           the
           Tomb
           of
           Justinian
           the
           Emperour
           ,
           and
           over
           against
           that
           John
           the
           Ninth
           ,
           Archbishop
           of
           Ravenna
           lies
           :
           Under
           one
           of
           the
           Altars
           you
           see
           the
           Tomb
           of
           St.
           Vitalle
           :
           Near
           the
           Church
           Door
           ,
           and
           in
           several
           places
           of
           the
           Town
           ,
           several
           old
           Sepulchres
           are
           remaining
           :
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           
             Maria
             Maggiore
          
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           abundance
           of
           fine
           ancient
           Marble
           Pillars
           ,
           and
           the
           Chappel
           of
           St.
           Orcicero
           ,
           who
           after
           he
           was
           beheaded
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           carryed
           his
           Head
           from
           the
           place
           of
           Execution
           ,
           two
           hundred
           paces
           :
           We
           went
           from
           this
           Church
           to
           the
           Rotonda
           ,
           one
           of
           the
           greatest
           pieces
           of
           Curiosity
           in
           all
           Italy
           ;
           it
           was
           designed
           by
           Amalasunta
           ,
           only
           Daughter
           to
           Theodoric
           ,
           King
           of
           the
           Goths
           ,
           for
           a
           Tomb
           for
           her
           Father
           ,
           and
           in
           the
           Year
           526
           ,
           was
           accordingly
           built
           ;
           a
           little
           before
           his
           death
           he
           caused
           a
           Pope
           and
           two
           
           famous
           Councellors
           to
           be
           put
           to
           death
           :
           The
           building
           is
           round
           ,
           but
           the
           Curiosity
           is
           in
           the
           Roof
           ,
           which
           is
           one
           intire
           Stone
           ,
           near
           four
           foot
           thick
           ,
           and
           thirty
           five
           foot
           over
           ,
           or
           in
           the
           Diameter
           that
           covers
           the
           whole
           Building
           ,
           being
           concav'd
           like
           unto
           a
           Buckle
           ;
           it
           is
           to
           the
           the
           admiration
           of
           all
           that
           see
           it
           questioned
           ,
           how
           such
           a
           Stone
           could
           be
           got
           out
           of
           a
           Quarry
           ,
           brought
           thither
           ,
           and
           placed
           as
           it
           is
           .
           The
           Vass
           that
           this
           King
           was
           put
           in
           ,
           is
           of
           Porphyry
           ,
           and
           was
           placed
           upon
           the
           top
           of
           this
           great
           Stone
           in
           the
           middle
           ,
           having
           round
           about
           the
           sides
           twelve
           Statues
           ,
           representing
           the
           Twelve
           Apostles
           ;
           but
           at
           the
           siege
           of
           Ravenna
           ,
           it
           was
           shot
           down
           ,
           and
           is
           now
           to
           be
           seen
           in
           the
           Convent
           of
           the
           Zocollanties
           ,
           fixed
           in
           a
           Wall
           ,
           conveyed
           thither
           by
           some
           of
           the
           Town
           in
           the
           Year
           of
           our
           Lord
           1564.
           
           We
           went
           next
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           the
           Polonaries
           ,
           supported
           by
           four
           and
           twenty
           fine
           Marble
           Pillars
           very
           Antique
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           Piazza
           or
           Market-place
           ,
           there
           are
           two
           more
           ,
           whereon
           the
           Statues
           of
           St.
           Vitelle
           and
           St.
           Apollinare
           ,
           Protectors
           of
           the
           City
           ,
           do
           now
           stand
           .
        
         
           Wednesday
           ,
           the
           30
           th
           .
           of
           January
           ,
           we
           left
           Ravenna
           ,
           and
           went
           to
           Fienza
           ,
           20.
           miles
           ,
           here
           it
           is
           they
           make
           the
           fine
           Earhen
           
           Ware
           ;
           the
           next
           day
           we
           came
           to
           Bologne
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           a
           great
           many
           fine
           Churches
           and
           Convents
           ,
           to
           wit
           ,
           that
           of
           St.
           John
           in
           the
           Mount
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           very
           good
           painting
           ,
           especially
           one
           piece
           made
           for
           St.
           Cicilia
           by
           
             Raphael
             Vrbin
          
           ,
           and
           another
           fine
           piece
           done
           by
           
             Hannibal
             Caratio
          
           .
           In
           the
           Convent
           of
           St.
           Dominico
           ,
           there
           is
           behind
           the
           great
           Altar
           ,
           a
           fine
           piece
           ,
           done
           by
           
             Machael
             Angelo
          
           :
           The
           Tomb
           of
           St.
           Dominic
           is
           very
           fine
           ;
           in
           the
           Quire
           you
           see
           the
           History
           of
           the
           Old
           and
           New
           Testament
           ,
           Carved
           in
           Wood
           ,
           very
           curiously
           done
           by
           
             Franck.
             Damiano
          
           ,
           a
           Lay
           Brother
           ,
           and
           a
           Lamp
           of
           Silver
           ,
           sent
           to
           them
           from
           the
           Indians
           about
           thirty
           years
           ago
           ;
           they
           shewed
           us
           St.
           
           Dominic's
           Chamber
           for
           a
           great
           Curiosity
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           and
           saw
           the
           Silk
           Mills
           ,
           which
           was
           well
           worth
           our
           trouble
           ,
           and
           one
           or
           two
           Pallaces
           ,
           and
           then
           we
           went
           to
           the
           fine
           Gallary
           of
           Aldovandino
           .
        
         
           Monday
           ,
           the
           4
           th
           .
           of
           February
           ,
           we
           went
           from
           Bologne
           to
           Modene
           20
           miles
           ,
           where
           within
           four
           miles
           of
           that
           Town
           ,
           near
           to
           the
           Great
           Road
           ,
           is
           scituated
           a
           strong
           place
           called
           Vrbin
           the
           Eighths
           Fort
           ;
           it
           is
           a
           square
           ,
           fortified
           with
           Ravelins
           and
           Demilunes
           ,
           the
           best
           regular
           Fortification
           
           that
           I
           had
           then
           seen
           in
           Italy
           :
           The
           Town
           of
           Modene
           is
           inconsiderable
           ,
           the
           Fortifications
           of
           it
           are
           old
           and
           decayed
           ,
           but
           the
           Citadal
           may
           be
           taken
           notice
           of
           :
           We
           saw
           the
           Duke
           and
           his
           Pallace
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           nothing
           more
           remarkable
           than
           the
           Collection
           of
           Pictures
           .
        
         
           Tuesday
           we
           went
           from
           Modene
           ,
           and
           lay
           eighteen
           miles
           off
           at
           a
           little
           Town
           ,
           called
           Cento
           ,
           and
           from
           thence
           to
           Ferrara
           eighteen
           miles
           ,
           where
           coming
           into
           Town
           you
           may
           take
           notice
           of
           a
           Fort
           ,
           which
           seem'd
           to
           me
           to
           be
           a
           Pentagone
           very
           well
           fortified
           ;
           in
           the
           Town
           is
           the
           Castello
           ,
           surrounded
           with
           deep
           Ditches
           of
           Water
           ;
           here
           the
           Popes
           Legate
           recides
           :
           They
           shewed
           us
           a
           fine
           Colomn
           not
           finished
           ▪
           whereon
           is
           to
           be
           placed
           the
           Statue
           of
           the
           Pope
           ,
           that
           at
           present
           stands
           hard
           by
           the
           Domo
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           very
           old
           Church
           .
           The
           Benedictins
           is
           a
           fine
           Monastery
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Tomb
           of
           Arioste
           the
           great
           Poet
           ,
           and
           Author
           of
           
             Orlands
             Furioso
          
           .
           Over
           against
           the
           Domo
           ,
           you
           may
           take
           notice
           of
           two
           Statues
           ,
           representing
           two
           Brothers
           ,
           one
           a
           Duke
           the
           other
           a
           Marquess
           ,
           of
           the
           House
           of
           Este
           ;
           one
           of
           them
           delighted
           much
           in
           sporting
           and
           playing
           tricks
           ,
           and
           had
           a
           House
           built
           for
           that
           purpose
           ,
           but
           now
           
           out
           of
           use
           .
           It
           became
           afterwards
           a
           Proverb
           ,
           when
           any
           one
           would
           be
           playing
           the
           Fool
           ,
           to
           say
           ,
           
             (
             il
             Fratello
             del
             Duca
             è
             morto
             )
          
           which
           is
           as
           much
           as
           to
           say
           (
           leave
           off
           Fooling
           .
           )
        
         
           Thursday
           following
           we
           went
           to
           Dinner
           to
           Ravigo
           ,
           the
           first
           Town
           in
           that
           Road
           that
           belongs
           to
           the
           Venetians
           ,
           22
           miles
           from
           Ferrara
           ,
           where
           we
           passed
           the
           River
           Poe
           ,
           and
           the
           White
           Channel
           ;
           after
           Dinner
           we
           went
           15
           miles
           more
           ,
           to
           a
           Town
           called
           Mont
           Selevie
           ;
           not
           far
           from
           hence
           we
           passed
           the
           River
           Adige
           ;
           and
           a
           Friday
           morning
           we
           came
           to
           Padoue
           ,
           ten
           miles
           ,
           from
           whence
           the
           same
           day
           we
           took
           Bark
           ,
           and
           arrived
           at
           Venice
           the
           eighth
           day
           of
           February
           ,
           where
           we
           staid
           three
           weeks
           to
           see
           the
           Town
           ;
           and
           the
           most
           remarkable
           thing
           there
           is
           ,
           the
           Arsenal
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           Arms
           for
           four
           hundred
           thousand
           men
           ;
           there
           is
           a
           very
           great
           store
           of
           Cannon
           and
           other
           instruments
           of
           War
           :
           Their
           Ports
           do
           abound
           in
           Gallies
           ,
           Galliots
           ,
           and
           Men
           of
           War
           :
           We
           went
           into
           the
           Bucentore
           ,
           a
           certain
           Vessel
           that
           the
           Doge
           or
           Duke
           of
           Venice
           goes
           in
           when
           he
           performs
           the
           Matrimonial
           Ceremony
           betwixt
           Himself
           and
           the
           Sea
           ,
           by
           throwing
           in
           a
           Gold
           Ring
           :
           We
           saw
           the
           private
           Armory
           ,
           and
           the
           Treasury
           ,
           
           which
           indeed
           is
           not
           to
           be
           admired
           after
           having
           seen
           the
           Treasure
           of
           Lauretta
           :
           We
           went
           afterwards
           to
           the
           Doge's
           Pallace
           and
           the
           Councel
           Chamber
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           good
           Painting
           ;
           the
           Piazza
           or
           Place
           of
           St.
           Mark
           ,
           is
           very
           well
           worth
           ones
           particular
           notice
           ,
           as
           also
           St.
           
           Mark
           's
           Church
           ,
           where
           you
           see
           the
           four
           fine
           Horses
           of
           Brass
           ,
           brought
           from
           Constantinople
           ,
           and
           the
           two
           great
           Pillars
           of
           Marble
           near
           the
           Water-side
           :
           The
           Bas-relief
           ,
           upon
           the
           side
           of
           a
           little
           Building
           joyning
           to
           the
           Steeple
           of
           St.
           
           Mark
           's
           Church
           is
           very
           well
           worth
           the
           taking
           notice
           of
           ;
           then
           we
           went
           up
           to
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Steeple
           ,
           from
           whence
           we
           had
           a
           fair
           prospect
           over
           all
           Venice
           ,
           which
           ,
           I
           believe
           ,
           contains
           more
           buildings
           than
           Rome
           ;
           but
           that
           which
           is
           chiefly
           to
           be
           admired
           ,
           is
           its
           Scituation
           and
           Building
           in
           the
           Sea
           ,
           so
           that
           one
           may
           go
           by
           Water
           and
           by
           Land
           almost
           through
           every
           Street
           of
           this
           vast
           City
           .
           There
           is
           two
           Canals
           or
           Ports
           ,
           by
           which
           the
           biggest
           Ships
           may
           go
           in
           and
           out
           ;
           the
           one
           is
           called
           
             Porto
             Lydo
          
           ,
           the
           other
           Malomoca
           :
           After
           we
           had
           gone
           round
           the
           City
           by
           Sea
           ,
           and
           viewed
           it
           after
           that
           manner
           ,
           we
           took
           our
           leaves
           of
           it
           ,
           and
           went
           again
           to
           Padoue
           ,
           where
           we
           arrived
           the
           
           first
           of
           March
           ;
           we
           saw
           the
           Schools
           of
           Physick
           ,
           Divinity
           and
           Law
           ,
           &c.
           called
           the
           Bo
           ,
           and
           the
           Tomb
           of
           Antinor
           ,
           Founder
           of
           Padoue
           ,
           who
           lived
           fifteen
           hundred
           years
           before
           our
           Saviour
           Christ
           ,
           upon
           Earth
           ,
           it
           is
           erected
           at
           the
           Corner
           of
           a
           Street
           ;
           then
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Anthony
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           fine
           Tomb
           of
           
             Alexander
             Contarini
          
           ,
           General
           of
           the
           Venetians
           ,
           and
           the
           Tomb
           of
           St.
           Anthony
           ,
           which
           is
           adorned
           with
           several
           fine
           Marble
           Figures
           ,
           representing
           the
           Miracles
           wrought
           by
           him
           in
           his
           life-time
           and
           about
           twenty
           seven
           great
           Silver
           Lamps
           .
           In
           the
           Quoire
           of
           the
           same
           Church
           there
           is
           about
           twelve
           pieces
           of
           Cast
           Brass
           ,
           so
           curiously
           wrought
           with
           all
           sorts
           of
           Figures
           ,
           and
           other
           things
           necessary
           to
           the
           design
           ,
           that
           it
           gives
           you
           an
           Historical
           Account
           of
           several
           passages
           in
           the
           Old
           Testament
           ,
           and
           so
           much
           to
           the
           Life
           ,
           that
           I
           cannot
           forbear
           to
           make
           mention
           of
           one
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           Story
           of
           Sampson
           and
           the
           Philistins
           ,
           when
           he
           destroyed
           so
           many
           of
           them
           by
           carcying
           away
           the
           Pillars
           of
           the
           House
           ,
           and
           letting
           the
           House
           fall
           wherein
           they
           were
           ;
           it
           is
           so
           artificially
           done
           ,
           that
           you
           will
           hardly
           believe
           your
           eyes
           ,
           but
           take
           the
           whole
           Fabrick
           to
           be
           effectually
           falling
           
           down
           .
           In
           the
           Cloysters
           to
           the
           same
           Church
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           little
           Black
           Marble
           Stone
           that
           covers
           the
           Bowels
           of
           the
           Old
           Duke
           of
           Norfolk
           ,
           Father
           to
           the
           supposed
           Mad
           Duke
           that
           we
           saw
           confined
           at
           Padoue
           :
           Right
           before
           this
           Church
           stands
           the
           Statue
           of
           
             Gatta
             Mela
          
           ,
           General
           of
           the
           Venetians
           ,
           in
           Brass
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Justin
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           the
           Tomb
           of
           St.
           Luke
           ,
           much
           like
           unto
           an
           old
           wooden
           Chest
           ,
           inchased
           with
           Iron
           ;
           the
           Tomb
           of
           S.
           Matthias
           ,
           over
           against
           it
           on
           the
           other
           side
           of
           the
           Church
           ,
           and
           under
           the
           great
           Altar
           ,
           the
           Tomb
           of
           St.
           Justin
           ;
           at
           the
           upper
           end
           of
           the
           Quire
           there
           is
           a
           fine
           piece
           of
           Painting
           ,
           done
           by
           
             Paul
             Veronese
          
           .
           To
           this
           Church
           belongs
           a
           Convent
           ,
           esteemed
           the
           finest
           in
           Italy
           .
           Near
           to
           the
           Pallace
           of
           the
           Great
           Captain
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           great
           Hall
           ,
           called
           
             Pallagio
             di
             Regione
          
           ,
           and
           that
           remarkable
           Stone
           in
           it
           ,
           called
           
             Lapis
             opprobrii
          
           ,
           whereon
           if
           any
           one
           comes
           and
           claps
           down
           his
           Breech
           ,
           three
           times
           together
           ,
           he
           shall
           never
           be
           troubled
           ,
           whilst
           he
           lives
           ,
           for
           debt
           ,
           but
           then
           he
           is
           for
           ever
           after
           defamed
           ,
           and
           himself
           and
           Family
           more
           ruined
           in
           their
           Reputation
           and
           Honour
           ,
           than
           if
           they
           had
           died
           in
           Prison
           for
           Debt
           .
           We
           went
           from
           
           hence
           to
           the
           place
           where
           they
           Anatomize
           and
           Dissect
           the
           Bodys
           of
           Men
           and
           Women
           ,
           which
           is
           so
           conveniently
           built
           ,
           that
           although
           it
           is
           much
           less
           than
           an
           ordinary
           Chamber
           ,
           yet
           there
           is
           room
           enough
           with
           Seats
           for
           two
           or
           three
           hundred
           Spectators
           .
        
         
           Sunday
           ,
           the
           3
           d.
           day
           of
           March
           ,
           we
           went
           from
           Padoue
           to
           Vicenze
           18
           miles
           ,
           where
           about
           a
           mile
           out
           of
           Town
           we
           saw
           a
           pretty
           Pallace
           ,
           called
           the
           Rotonda
           ;
           it
           is
           a
           very
           fine
           Prospect
           and
           belongs
           to
           the
           Marquess
           
             Martio
             Capra
          
           ;
           we
           also
           saw
           the
           Garden
           and
           Labyrinth
           of
           
             Conte
             Valinerana
          
           ,
           the
           Amphitheatre
           and
           Triumphal
           Arch
           of
           Poladio
           ,
           with
           what
           else
           was
           considerable
           .
           Tuesday
           the
           5
           th
           we
           went
           thirty
           miles
           more
           ,
           and
           came
           to
           Dinner
           at
           Verona
           ,
           where
           the
           finest
           Tombs
           ,
           and
           the
           richest
           that
           ever
           I
           saw
           of
           Marble
           ,
           are
           there
           erected
           to
           the
           honour
           of
           the
           Family
           of
           the
           Scaligeres
           ,
           who
           were
           formerly
           Masters
           of
           this
           Town
           ;
           then
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Amphitheatre
           ,
           which
           is
           much
           like
           to
           that
           in
           Rome
           ,
           but
           a
           more
           intire
           thing
           within
           ,
           for
           the
           Spectators
           Seats
           or
           Places
           which
           are
           the
           Circular
           Degrees
           or
           Steps
           within
           side
           remain
           all
           whole
           ,
           the
           outside
           is
           much
           more
           ruined
           than
           that
           in
           Rome
           .
           
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           Conte
           Juste's
           Garden
           ,
           where
           you
           have
           a
           prospect
           of
           the
           whole
           Town
           ;
           I
           took
           notice
           of
           the
           Pine
           Trees
           in
           the
           Garden
           ,
           which
           are
           the
           finest
           I
           ever
           saw
           .
           From
           this
           Garden
           we
           went
           to
           St.
           
           George's
           Church
           ,
           where
           we
           saw
           two
           pieces
           of
           Painting
           ,
           very
           much
           esteemed
           ,
           done
           by
           
             Paul
             Veroncse
          
           :
           It
           is
           thought
           that
           this
           Town
           is
           the
           biggest
           (
           except
           Venice
           )
           that
           belongs
           to
           the
           Venetians
           ;
           its
           scituation
           is
           upon
           the
           River
           Adige
           .
        
         
           Wednesday
           ,
           the
           6
           th
           .
           we
           left
           this
           place
           and
           went
           to
           Mamoue
           24
           miles
           ,
           the
           Duke
           thereof
           and
           Dutchess
           his
           Wife
           ,
           are
           both
           of
           the
           Family
           of
           Gonzaga
           :
           We
           saw
           the
           Town
           and
           the
           Dukes
           Pallace
           ,
           but
           nothing
           worth
           remark
           in
           either
           ▪
           for
           about
           forty
           years
           ago
           it
           was
           plundered
           by
           the
           Germans
           ,
           yet
           something
           remains
           in
           the
           Closet
           of
           Natural
           Curiosities
           worth
           taking
           notice
           of
           ,
           to
           wit
           ,
           two
           or
           three
           Children
           Mummies
           ,
           one
           of
           them
           like
           to
           a
           Satyr
           ,
           the
           other
           two
           very
           Monstrous
           ,
           there
           being
           but
           two
           Bodys
           ,
           but
           to
           each
           Body
           Members
           for
           two
           Children
           ;
           one
           of
           these
           Children
           was
           a
           Male
           ,
           the
           other
           a
           Female
           very
           discernable
           :
           There
           was
           likewise
           a
           Man
           Mummy
           ,
           he
           being
           about
           360
           years
           ago
           ,
           
           a
           very
           Tyrannick
           Governour
           of
           this
           place
           ,
           was
           killed
           ,
           and
           thus
           preserved
           for
           a
           detestable
           spectacle
           to
           after
           Ages
           .
           Of
           several
           Cockatrices
           I
           had
           seen
           in
           our
           Travels
           ,
           the
           biggest
           was
           in
           this
           place
           .
           The
           little
           Hall
           painted
           by
           
             Gulio
             Romano
          
           of
           the
           Trojan
           History
           is
           worth
           taking
           notice
           of
           .
           The
           Town
           of
           Mantoue
           is
           well
           fortified
           by
           Nature
           as
           well
           as
           by
           Art.
           Ver●●a
           ,
           the
           place
           I
           made
           mention
           of
           before
           this
           ,
           is
           likewise
           strongly
           fortied
           with
           thick
           Walls
           and
           deep
           Ditches
           .
           About
           five
           miles
           from
           Mantoue
           ,
           in
           the
           road
           to
           Brescia
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           fine
           Palace
           ,
           belonging
           to
           this
           Duke
           ,
           called
           
             La
             Fontalla
          
           .
           The
           same
           day
           being
           the
           seventh
           ,
           we
           arrived
           at
           Brescia
           40
           miles
           ,
           riding
           all
           the
           way
           through
           a
           very
           delightful
           Country
           .
           The
           Town
           of
           Brescia
           is
           strong
           ,
           having
           good
           Walls
           and
           Ditches
           .
           The
           Castle
           that
           stands
           upon
           a
           little
           Hill
           has
           a
           great
           many
           good
           Cannon
           in
           it
           ,
           and
           commands
           the
           Town
           .
           About
           160
           years
           ago
           the
           French
           were
           Masters
           of
           it
           ,
           who
           with
           the
           assistance
           of
           some
           forces
           from
           Bologn
           made
           a
           strong
           sally
           upon
           the
           Town
           ,
           plundering
           ,
           and
           putting
           all
           to
           the
           Sword
           ;
           ever
           since
           which
           time
           they
           have
           remained
           in
           Peace
           .
           The
           Town-House
           was
           one
           of
           the
           finest
           buildings
           in
           
           all
           these
           parts
           ,
           but
           by
           an
           accident
           burnt
           the
           remains
           of
           it
           is
           worth
           one's
           regard
           .
           The
           ninth
           we
           went
           from
           hence
           to
           Bergamo
           30
           miles
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           that
           night
           ,
           the
           next
           morning
           ,
           being
           Sunday
           the
           10
           th
           we
           went
           into
           the
           Town
           ,
           which
           is
           scituated
           on
           a
           Hill
           ,
           and
           well
           fortified
           :
           This
           is
           one
           of
           the
           finest
           prospects
           of
           Italy
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           Domo
           ,
           and
           in
           it
           the
           Sepulchre
           of
           
             Bartholomew
             Collione
          
           ,
           late
           Patron
           of
           the
           Town
           ;
           there
           are
           four
           fine
           pieces
           kept
           lockt
           up
           ,
           some
           call
           it
           Painting
           ,
           but
           others
           affirm
           it
           to
           be
           all
           but
           Wood
           Inlaid
           ,
           which
           makes
           the
           Pieces
           the
           more
           Curious
           .
        
         
           After
           Dinner
           ,
           the
           same
           day
           ,
           we
           went
           to
           
             Le
             Fournaise
          
           16
           miles
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           that
           night
           ;
           it
           is
           but
           a
           Village
           ,
           and
           lies
           upon
           the
           River
           Adda
           .
           The
           next
           day
           we
           rode
           14
           miles
           upon
           the
           same
           River-side
           ,
           and
           came
           to
           Millan
           the
           14
           th
           of
           March
           ;
           and
           first
           of
           all
           we
           went
           to
           St.
           
           Paul's
           Church
           ,
           and
           to
           that
           of
           St.
           Ceis●
           ,
           in
           both
           which
           there
           is
           good
           Pai●ting
           ,
           cheifly
           in
           this
           last
           ,
           where
           in
           the
           〈◊〉
           there
           is
           a
           fine
           piece
           done
           by
           
             R●phael
             Vrbin
          
           .
           In
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           〈◊〉
           they
           shew
           you
           a
           Brazen
           Serpent
           ,
           whereof
           the
           Head
           and
           Tail
           ,
           they
           tell
           you
           was
           part
           of
           that
           Serpent
           that
           Moses
           caused
           
           the
           Children
           of
           Israel
           to
           set
           up
           for
           a
           remedy
           against
           the
           plague
           of
           biting
           Serpents
           :
           The
           Body
           of
           St.
           Ambrose
           lies
           under
           the
           Great
           Altar
           .
           In
           the
           Garden
           of
           this
           Convent
           they
           shew
           you
           a
           Chappel
           ,
           where
           they
           say
           St.
           Augustin
           was
           converted
           to
           the
           Christian
           Faith
           ,
           and
           another
           Chappel
           ,
           where
           they
           say
           he
           was
           Baptized
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Convent
           of
           St.
           Victoir
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           very
           good
           painting
           :
           These
           two
           last
           mentioned
           are
           esteemed
           the
           finest
           Convents
           in
           Italy
           ;
           then
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Eustorgian
           ,
           where
           they
           pretend
           to
           shew
           the
           Tomb
           of
           the
           Three
           Kings
           that
           came
           to
           worship
           our
           Saviour
           in
           Bethlehem
           ,
           and
           the
           Sepulchre
           of
           St.
           Peter
           ,
           who
           they
           say
           was
           martyrized
           in
           a
           Wood
           betwixt
           Millan
           and
           Pavie
           .
           Then
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Church
           of
           St.
           Laurence
           ,
           built
           after
           the
           model
           of
           St.
           Sophie
           in
           Constantinople
           ;
           it
           was
           formerly
           the
           Palace
           of
           Maximilian
           the
           Emperour
           ,
           there
           remains
           sixteen
           of
           the
           old
           Pillars
           next
           the
           street
           ,
           which
           I
           looked
           upon
           to
           be
           the
           greatest
           piece
           of
           Antiquity
           of
           the
           whole
           Town
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           Church
           there
           is
           nothing
           but
           the
           Tomb
           of
           Placidia
           ,
           Daughter
           to
           Honorius
           the
           Emperour
           that
           is
           worth
           your
           notice
           ▪
           The
           Domo
           or
           Cathedral
           
           Church
           is
           the
           finest
           Fabrick
           in
           Millan
           ,
           and
           if
           one
           had
           a
           month
           to
           spend
           there
           ,
           one
           might
           see
           it
           every
           day
           ,
           and
           yet
           find
           something
           to
           please
           ones
           Curiosity
           ,
           that
           one
           had
           not
           seen
           ,
           or
           atleast
           taken
           notice
           of
           before
           ,
           notwithstanding
           it
           is
           not
           finished
           ,
           nor
           do
           I
           believe
           ever
           will
           be
           .
           There
           is
           about
           six
           hundred
           Marble
           Pillars
           belonging
           to
           the
           Church
           ,
           and
           each
           Pillar
           they
           say
           cost
           at
           least
           One
           Thousand
           Crowns
           ;
           all
           the
           Walls
           of
           the
           Church
           are
           likewise
           of
           Marble
           :
           In
           a
           little
           Chappel
           ,
           under
           ground
           ,
           we
           saw
           the
           body
           of
           St.
           Charles
           covered
           with
           Crystal
           ,
           very
           transparent
           ,
           lying
           in
           his
           Robes
           ,
           the
           same
           he
           wore
           when
           he
           was
           Archbishop
           of
           that
           place
           ,
           his
           Face
           ,
           which
           looked
           black
           and
           rottenish
           ,
           had
           no
           covering
           ,
           but
           lies
           always
           exposed
           to
           view
           ;
           the
           Crystal
           Case
           preserving
           it
           from
           Cobwebs
           ,
           dust
           and
           other
           filth
           .
           From
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Church
           we
           took
           a
           view
           of
           the
           Town
           ,
           which
           is
           near
           as
           big
           as
           London
           within
           the
           Walls
           ;
           we
           saw
           the
           great
           Hospital
           ,
           the
           Lazaretto
           or
           Pesthouse
           ,
           both
           well
           worth
           taking
           notice
           of
           .
           In
           the
           Cabinet
           of
           Settali
           ,
           one
           of
           their
           their
           Canons
           there
           is
           a
           great
           many
           curiosities
           both
           Natural
           and
           Artificial
           ;
           what
           I
           most
           admired
           was
           three
           large
           
           Unicorns
           Horns
           ,
           which
           I
           never
           saw
           in
           any
           place
           before
           ,
           nor
           till
           then
           did
           I
           believe
           there
           could
           be
           any
           such
           thing
           in
           nature
           ,
           but
           the
           Master
           of
           the
           Cabinet
           was
           strongly
           of
           the
           opinion
           that
           they
           did
           belong
           to
           ,
           and
           were
           taken
           from
           Fish
           ,
           and
           that
           there
           was
           never
           any
           such
           Beast
           seen
           to
           have
           such
           a
           Horn
           ,
           but
           that
           it
           was
           a
           vulgar
           error
           ;
           each
           Horn
           was
           about
           six
           foot
           long
           ,
           twisting
           regularly
           from
           the
           root
           upwards
           ,
           but
           falling
           from
           the
           Twist
           gradually
           as
           it
           drew
           up
           to
           the
           spear
           or
           point
           ,
           which
           was
           very
           sharp
           :
           The
           lower
           part
           or
           root
           of
           the
           Horn
           being
           about
           ten
           or
           twelve
           inches
           circumference
           ,
           which
           declining
           gradually
           till
           it
           comes
           to
           a
           spear
           a
           top
           ,
           renders
           it
           a
           very
           strong
           and
           formidable
           weapon
           .
           The
           Horn
           is
           all
           very
           white
           ;
           the
           whole
           Cabinet
           is
           full
           of
           curious
           things
           ,
           yet
           I
           think
           that
           Cabinet
           we
           saw
           at
           Lyons
           in
           France
           does
           far
           excel
           it
           .
           From
           hence
           we
           went
           to
           the
           Castle
           ,
           it
           is
           a
           very
           regular
           Exagon
           ,
           with
           half
           moons
           ;
           it
           is
           esteemed
           one
           of
           the
           compleatest
           pieces
           of
           fortification
           in
           all
           Italy
           ,
           and
           of
           great
           strength
           ,
           upon
           every
           one
           of
           the
           Bastions
           is
           planted
           twelve
           pieces
           of
           Cannon
           ;
           there
           is
           a
           Garrison
           in
           it
           of
           about
           500
           Soldiers
           with
           their
           Wives
           and
           Children
           ▪
           After
           we
           had
           seen
           the
           Castle
           ,
           we
           
           went
           to
           a
           Palace
           of
           the
           Countess
           of
           Smione
           ,
           about
           a
           mile
           and
           a
           half
           out
           of
           Millan
           ,
           where
           amongst
           other
           remarkable
           things
           ,
           you
           may
           take
           notice
           of
           the
           Echo
           ,
           which
           was
           the
           best
           I
           ever
           heard
           .
           There
           is
           a
           very
           strong
           wall
           round
           Millan
           ,
           which
           is
           said
           to
           be
           ten
           miles
           ;
           the
           Library
           there
           is
           worth
           seeing
           .
        
         
           From
           this
           place
           we
           came
           the
           13
           th
           to
           a
           little
           Village
           called
           Buffe●●lo
           20
           miles
           ,
           it
           lies
           upon
           Navillio
           ,
           a
           small
           River
           ,
           and
           from
           thence
           the
           14
           th
           to
           Vercelle
           20
           miles
           more
           :
           Then
           we
           came
           to
           the
           River
           Tissino
           4
           miles
           ,
           and
           so
           to
           Novarra
           6
           miles
           ;
           this
           is
           the
           strongest
           place
           upon
           the
           Frontiers
           of
           Savoy
           that
           belongs
           to
           the
           Milaneses
           :
           From
           hence
           we
           came
           to
           Vercelli
           10
           miles
           ;
           this
           place
           belongs
           to
           the
           Duke
           of
           Savoy
           ,
           and
           is
           the
           first
           place
           of
           strength
           ,
           near
           the
           Frontiers
           of
           the
           Milaneses
           ;
           One
           side
           of
           the
           Town
           is
           regularly
           fortified
           with
           Bastions
           and
           Half
           Moons
           ,
           hardly
           finished
           ;
           on
           the
           North
           part
           of
           the
           Town
           the
           fortifications
           are
           irregular
           ,
           there
           being
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           the
           old
           walls
           still
           remaining
           ,
           however
           the
           Town
           is
           very
           strong
           .
           The
           15
           th
           we
           came
           to
           Dinner
           to
           Ciliana
           or
           Sian
           17
           miles
           ;
           and
           from
           thence
           to
           Chivas
           10
           miles
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           that
           night
           at
           the
           Posthouse
           ,
           from
           
           whence
           the
           next
           day
           ,
           being
           Saturday
           the
           16
           th
           .
           of
           March
           ,
           we
           came
           to
           Turin
           12
           miles
           .
           The
           next
           day
           ,
           Sunday
           ,
           we
           went
           to
           Pignerol
           16
           miles
           ;
           it
           is
           a
           strong
           Town
           ,
           which
           the
           French
           King
           about
           45
           years
           ago
           took
           from
           the
           Doke
           of
           Savoy
           .
           The
           Cittadel
           wherein
           Monsieur
           Fouket
           ,
           thatgreat
           Minister
           is
           confined
           ,
           is
           a
           very
           strong
           place
           ,
           and
           like
           to
           be
           much
           stronger
           if
           they
           continue
           to
           carry
           on
           the
           work
           of
           their
           fortifications
           .
           The
           Town
           it self
           is
           likewise
           very
           well
           fortified
           ,
           where
           at
           the
           Gate
           going
           in
           they
           obliged
           us
           to
           leave
           our
           Arms
           ,
           and
           to
           take
           a
           Soldier
           to
           wait
           upon
           us
           to
           the
           Governour
           for
           leave
           to
           see
           the
           Town
           and
           Cittadel
           ,
           which
           was
           soon
           granted
           us
           .
           This
           place
           has
           a
           very
           great
           awe
           upon
           the
           Duke
           of
           Savoy
           ,
           the
           French
           being
           able
           by
           means
           thereof
           at
           their
           pleasure
           to
           make
           an
           inroad
           upon
           that
           Dukedom
           .
        
         
           From
           Pignerol
           we
           came
           to
           Villiane
           the
           Monday
           following
           12
           miles
           ,
           and
           a
           bad
           way
           over
           the
           Mountains
           ;
           near
           to
           this
           Town
           we
           passed
           betwixt
           two
           small
           Lakes
           ,
           called
           by
           the
           Name
           of
           the
           Town
           ▪
           From
           this
           place
           we
           went
           eight
           miles
           farther
           ,
           and
           came
           to
           Busolino
           ,
           the
           next
           day
           to
           Novalese
           six
           miles
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           foot
           of
           the
           Mountains
           on
           the
           side
           of
           
           Piedmont
           .
           From
           Novaleze
           ,
           in
           the
           ascent
           of
           the
           Alpes
           ,
           we
           came
           to
           
             la
             Ferier
          
           two
           long
           miles
           ,
           from
           thence
           to
           the
           great
           Cross
           two
           more
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           least
           half
           to
           the
           top
           of
           Mount
           Senis
           ;
           from
           the
           great
           Cross
           we
           went
           five
           miles
           upon
           a
           Plain
           ,
           which
           brought
           us
           to
           the
           Ra●asse
           (
           that
           is
           )
           the
           place
           where
           we
           took
           Sledges
           ,
           on
           which
           we
           slid
           all
           upon
           Snow
           from
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Mountain
           to
           the
           foot
           towards
           France
           in
           so
           little
           time
           ,
           that
           I
           forbear
           here
           to
           mention
           ,
           which
           which
           was
           two
           miles
           more
           ,
           and
           that
           brought
           us
           to
           Lanebourg
           ,
           from
           Lanebourg
           to
           Bremont
           two
           leagues
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           on
           Tuesday
           night
           ;
           from
           thence
           we
           went
           to
           St.
           Michell
           five
           leagues
           ,
           and
           so
           to
           
             la
             Chambre
          
           four
           leagues
           ,
           all
           upon
           the
           River
           
             Arch.
             Thursday
          
           we
           came
           to
           Maltaverne
           six
           leagues
           ,
           and
           then
           to
           Montmillian
           two
           leagues
           ,
           and
           so
           to
           Chambrey
           two
           great
           leagues
           more
           .
           On
           Friday
           we
           came
           to
           Remile
           five
           leagues
           ,
           where
           we
           lay
           ▪
           From
           thence
           we
           came
           on
           Saturday
           the
           23
           th
           .
           of
           March
           ,
           new
           stile
           ,
           to
           Geneve
           seven
           leagues
           ,
           where
           after
           we
           had
           rested
           our selves
           for
           some
           time
           ,
           we
           returned
           for
           France
           by
           the
           way
           of
           way
           of
           
           Lyons
           ●nd
           then
           taking
           another
           road
           different
           ●●om
           what
           we
           travelled
           before
           ,
           in
           some
           
           short
           time
           arrived
           at
           Paris
           ,
           where
           we
           stay'd
           about
           a
           month
           ,
           and
           then
           set
           forward
           for
           England
           ,
           to
           which
           place
           we
           returned
           after
           four
           years
           travl
           in
           
             France
             ,
             Italy
             ,
             Swisserland
          
           ,
           and
           through
           some
           of
           the
           Spanish
           Territories
           ;
           but
           then
           stay'd
           not
           long
           before
           a
           voyage
           into
           France
           was
           again
           proposed
           ,
           with
           which
           you
           was
           pleased
           to
           comply
           ,
           and
           so
           passed
           the
           following
           Winter
           at
           Mompellier
           ,
           going
           another
           way
           through
           France
           ,
           than
           the
           way
           you
           had
           gone
           before
           ▪
           from
           whence
           the
           next
           Summer
           ,
           by
           another
           road
           we
           returned
           again
           to
           Paris
           ,
           where
           I
           was
           compelled
           to
           leave
           you
           .
           And
           the
           same
           time
           humbly
           take
           leave
           to
           Conclude
           this
           short
           and
           rude
           Journal
           of
           your
           Travels
           in
           Italy
           .
        
         
           FINIS
           .